Manual 13824619 | Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and
trained and supported service people.
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air
Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Maintenance
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Use premium unleaded gasoline rated at 91 octane or higher for best performance. You may use middle grade or regular unleaded gasolines, but your vehicle’s acceleration may be slightly reduced.
It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which have been developed by the American Automobile
Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the
Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection.
Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.
Be sure the posted octane for premium is at least 91
(at least 87 for regular). If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at the recommended octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service. But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill.
That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog
check test. (See “Malfunction
Indicator Lamp” in the Index.) If this occurs, return to your authorized Cadillac dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane
enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. If fuels containing
MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected.
The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized Cadillac dealer for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.
You can also write us at the following address for advice. Just tell us where you’re going and give your
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
General Motors Overseas Distribution Corporation
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Filling Your Tank
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.
The cap is located behind a hinged door on the driver’s side of your vehicle.
The fuel door release button is located to the left of the steering wheel next to the headlamp knob.
The button only works in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) when the ignition key is in any position and the VALET lockout button is in the OFF position.
An alternate fuel door release is located inside of the trunk on the driver’s side. Pull it to release the fuel door.
While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the hook on the filler door.
To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise). The cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.
If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
D Dispense gasoline only into
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.
D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
An electric fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like gasoline, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
Pull the lever inside the vehicle to open the hood.
It is located on the lower driver’s side of the instrument panel.
Then go to the front of the vehicle and find the secondary hood release lever which is located under the front edge of the grille. Lift up on the release lever as you raise the hood.
When you open the hood, you’ll see:
A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
B. Underhood Junction Block
C. Engine Coolant Surge Tank
D. Power Steering Fluid
E. Engine Oil Fill Cap
F. Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Brake Master Cylinder
H. Transaxle Dipstick/Fluid Fill Location
I. Engine Air Cleaner Filter
Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Then pull the hood down and close it firmly.
Turn the parking lamps on to operate the underhood lamp. The underhood lamp will come on when the hood is opened.
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on the instrument panel, it means you need to check your engine oil level right away. For more information, see
“Checking Engine Oil” in the Index.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is an added reminder.
Analog Cluster, Digital Cluster similar
A CHECK OIL LEVEL message will appear when the engine oil is approximately 1 quart (1L) low. If the message is displayed, check the dipstick level and add oil as needed.
Checking Engine Oil
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick is located behind the radiator on the driver’s side of the engine. The handle says
ENGINE OIL on it.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The oil fill cap is located behind the radiator on the passenger’s side of the engine. Turn the cap counterclockwise to remove it.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol.
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum Institute certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
As shown in the chart, SAE 5W
30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W to be 0
30 if it’s going
_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
_C), consider using either an SAE 5W
30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W
30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
Your vehicle has a computer that lets you know when to change your engine oil. This is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions and engine operating temperature. When the computer has calculated that the oil needs changing, the GM Oil Life System t will indicate that a change is necessary. The mileage between oil and filter changes will vary depending on how you drive your vehicle
usually between 3,000 miles
(5 000 km) and 10,000 miles (16 000 km) since your last oil and filter change. Under severe conditions, the system may come on before 3,000 miles (5 000 km).
Never drive your vehicle more than 10,000 miles
(16 000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first) without an oil change.
The system won’t detect dust in the oil. So, if you drive in a dusty area, be sure to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or sooner. Remember to reset the Oil Life Indicator whenever the oil is changed.
How to Reset the Oil Life Indicator
After the oil has been changed, display the OIL LIFE message by pressing the INFO button. Then press and hold the RESET button until the display shows 100%
ENGINE OIL LIFE. This resets the oil life index. The percentage of oil life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO button several times until the
OIL LIFE message appears. For more information on the oil life feature, see “Oil Life Indicator” in the Index.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long.
Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. (See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.)
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free
flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
The engine air cleaner filter is located on the driver’s side of the engine. Be sure the engine has cooled before following these steps to replace the air cleaner filter:
1. Loosen both wing nuts on the top of the air cleaner assembly.
2. Lift up the outboard side of the air cleaner cover at an angle while pulling toward you to remove the cover.
3. Remove the air filter element and any loose debris that may be found laying in the air cleaner base.
4. Replace the air filter element.
Follow these steps to reinstall the air cleaner cover to the air cleaner housing:
1. When installing the air cleaner cover, be sure to align the two tabs located on the back of the air cleaner cover with the two slots on the back of the air cleaner housing.
2. Push slightly down and forward to slide the air cleaner cover and housing back into place and close.
3. Reinstall and tighten the two wing nuts on the top of the air cleaner assembly.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the air filter.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet.
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
Passenger Compartment Air
The passenger compartment air filter traps most of the pollen from the air entering your vehicle. Like your vehicle’s air cleaner filter, it may need to be changed periodically. For how often to change the passenger compartment air filter, see your Maintenance
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.
The access panel for the passenger compartment air filter is located under the hood near the windshield, on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
1. To access the passenger compartment air filter, insert the flat tip of a screwdriver into the outer edge of the cover and gently pry the cover up.
2. Then, insert the flat tip of the screwdriver behind the push pin located on the inboard side of the air filter compartment to carefully pry the pin out.
3. To remove the air filter, insert the flat tip of the screwdriver between the air filter and the compartment wall on the outboard side of the vehicle. Then, push in to flatten the pin holding the air filter in place. Gently remove the air filter and any loose debris that may be inside the air filter compartment.
Insert the new air filter, by pushing until you hear a click. Then, reinstall the push pin and snap the cover into place.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90
_F (32_C) or higher.
D In hilly or mountainous terrain.
D When doing frequent trailer towing.
D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
D Use such as limousine service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, the fluid and filter do not require change until the message CHANGE TRANS FLUID appears on the Driver Information Center.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transaxle. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transaxle fluid level if you have been driving:
D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C).
D At high speed for quite a while.
D In heavy traffic
especially in hot weather.
D While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180
_F to 200_F
_C to 93_C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50
_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to drive longer.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
D Let the engine run at idle for three to five minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. The transaxle fluid cap is located next to the radiator hose and below the air cleaner assembly on the driver’s side of the engine. Remove the air cleaner assembly so you can reach the transaxle fluid cap.
Turn the transaxle fluid cap counterclockwise to remove. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the cross
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way. Reinstall the air cleaner assembly.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transaxle fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance
If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level into the cross
hatched area on the dipstick.
1. Pull out the dipstick.
2. Using a long
neck funnel, add enough fluid at the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.
It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transaxle.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON
III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.”
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way.
How to Reset Transaxle Fluid
After the transaxle fluid has been changed, display the transaxle FLUID LIFE message by pressing the INFO button. Then press and hold the INFO RESET button until the display shows “100”. This resets the transaxle fluid life index. The percentage of transaxle fluid life remaining may be checked at any time by pressing the INFO button several times until the transaxle
FLUID LIFE message appears.
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with
engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only
extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
D Give freezing protection down to
D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C).
D Protect against rust and corrosion.
D Help keep the proper engine temperature.
D Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX
If coolant other than DEX
COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
What to Use
Use a mixture of one
half clean, drinkable water and one
coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Turning the surge tank pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly.
Never turn the surge tank pressure cap
even a little
when the engine and radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the full cold mark, below the base of the fill neck. Use a flashlight as necessary to see into the tank.
The surge tank is located on the passenger’s side of the engine.
The cooling system is under a lot of pressure when it is hot. If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message appears on the Driver Information Center (DIC), you will need to add coolant.
If the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL message comes on and stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.
For more information, see “Check Coolant Level
Message” in the Index.
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX
R coolant mixture at the surge tank, but only when the engine is cool.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir is located between the fuse block relay center and the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
When replacing the pressure cap, make sure it is hand
Surge Tank Pressure Cap
The surge tank cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure
type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrow on the cap lines up with the overflow hose.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
When the engine compartment is cool, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag. Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark. If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet. Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
Adding Washer Fluid
The CHECK WASHER FLUID message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when the fluid is low.
The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located in front of the fuse block relay center on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID. Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
D When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
D Don’t mix water with ready
use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
D Fill your washer fluid tank only
quarters full when it’s very cold.
This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It is filled with DOT
3 brake fluid.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
When your brake fluid falls to a low level, your brake warning light will come on. See “Brake System Warning
Light” in the Index.
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT
3 brake fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.
Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage
brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral
based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.
D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s
painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
Your vehicle has four
wheel disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built
in wear indicators that make a high
pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Continuing to drive with worn
out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly torque wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet under Part C “Periodic
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Every time you apply the brakes, with or without the vehicle moving, your brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top
quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system
for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in
be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change
for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an
The battery is located under the rear seat cushion.
To access the battery, see “Removing the Rear Seat
Cushion” in the Index. You don’t need to access the battery to jump start your vehicle. See “Jump Starting” in the Index.
A battery that isn’t properly vented can let sulfuric acid fumes into the area under the rear seat cushion. These fumes can damage your rear seat safety belt systems. You may not be able to see this damage, and the safety belts might not provide the protection needed in a crash. If a replacement battery is ever needed, it must be vented in the same manner as the original battery. Always make sure that the vent hose is properly reattached before reinstalling the seat cushion.
To be sure the vent hose (A) is properly attached, the vent hose connectors (B) must be securely reattached to the vent outlets (C) on each side of the battery, and the vent assembly grommet (D) must be secured to the floor pan (E).
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (
) cable from the battery.
This will help keep your battery from running down.
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.
Also, for your audio system, see “Theft
Feature” in the Index.
For the proper type of replacement bulb, see
“Replacement Bulbs” in the Index.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your dealer’s service department.
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
1. To access the headlamps, remove all of the push
pins that hold the filler panel cover in place.
Do this by pressing the center of each pin down, then remove the pin by pulling up on the outer circle. Then set the cover aside.
2. Remove the two bolts at the top of the headlamp assembly.
3. Loosen the bolt at the bottom of the headlamp assembly to gain access to the bulb socket.
4. Firmly grasp the outboard side of the headlamp assembly with both hands and pull hard enough, so that the whole assembly opens freely.
5. Remove the bulb socket dust cover and set aside.
7. Disconnect the bulb from the socket by pulling out the bulb.
6. Turn the headlamp housing socket counterclockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing.
8. Install the new bulb into the socket. Make sure that the bulb is locked firmly into the bulb socket.
9. Reinstall the headlamp housing socket back into the headlamp assembly.
10. To reinstall the headlamp assembly, see steps 2 through 5 in reverse.
To reinstall the filler panel:
1. Place the filler panel in the correct location.
2. Reset each push
pin by holding each by the outer circle while pushing up on the pin assembly from below. The center portion of the push
pin should now be above the outer circle.
3. After placing each push
pin into the opening, press down on the outer circle until it is seated against the surface of the filler panel.
4. Lock each push
pin in place by pressing the center of each down until they are level with the outer circles. Use care not to press down so far that the push
pin releases again.
Your vehicle has a visual optical headlamp aiming system equipped with horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been pre
set at the factory and should need no further adjustment. This is true even though your horizontal aim indicators may not fall exactly on the “0” (zero) marks on their scales.
If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low beam may be necessary if it is difficult to see lane markers
(for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high beams at you (for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need to be re
aimed, we recommend that you take your vehicle to your dealer for service. However, it is possible for you to re
aim your headlamps as described in the following procedure.
To make sure your headlamps are aimed properly, read all the instructions before beginning. Failure to follow these instructions could cause damage to headlamp parts.
The vehicle should be properly prepared as follows:
D The vehicle should be placed so the headlamps are 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a light colored wall or other flat surface.
D The vehicle must have all four tires on a perfectly level surface which is level all the way to the wall or other flat surface.
D The vehicle should be placed so it is perpendicular to the wall or other flat surface.
D The vehicle should not have any snow, ice or mud attached to it.
D The vehicle should be fully assembled and all other work stopped while headlamp aiming is being done.
D Allow the headlamps to warm up for one to two minutes before beginning.
D Tires should be properly inflated.
D Start the vehicle to level the suspension.
Headlamp aiming is done with the vehicle low beam lamps. The high beam lamps will be correctly aimed if the low beam lamps are aimed properly.
The headlamp aiming devices are under the hood near the headlamps.
Headlamp Horizontal Aiming
Turn the horizontal aiming screw (A) until the indicator (B) is lined up with zero.
If you believe your headlamps need horizontal
(left/right) adjustment, follow the horizontal aiming procedure. If you believe your headlamps need only vertical (up/down) adjustment, follow only the vertical aiming procedure.
Adjustment screws can be turned with an E8 Torx
R socket or T15 Torx screwdriver.
Once the horizontal aim is adjusted, then adjust the vertical aim.
Headlamp Vertical Aiming
1. Find the aim dot on the lens of the lamps.
3. At the wall or other flat surface, measure from the floor to the recorded distance and draw a horizontal line the width of the vehicle.
2. Measure the distance from the ground to the aim dot on each lamp; if left low beam, subtract two inches.
Record this distance.
4. Turn on the low beam headlamps and cover the lamp not being evaluated. The ambient light should allow the beam cut off to be seen on the wall.
5. Turn the vertical aiming screw (C) until the headlamp beam is aimed to the horizontal line. It is recommended to cover the lamp that is not being evaluated to better see the beam being aimed.
Front Cornering Lamps
1. Follow Steps 1 through 5 in “Headlamps” described previously.
2. Disconnect the cornering lamp bulb by pulling the bulb out of the socket. Do not twist or turn the bulb.
3. Replace cornering lamp bulb by pushing the bulb directly into the socket.
4. Reinstall the cornering lamp housing socket back into the headlamp assembly.
5. To reinstall headlamp assembly, see Steps 1 through
5 in reverse in “Headlamps”described previously.
Front Turn Signal Lamps
1. The turn signal lamps are located beside the headlamps. To access, lift off the bulb socket dust cover. (See Step 1 under “Headlamps.”)
2. Press the tab down and turn the housing socket clockwise to unlock the socket from the lamp housing.
3. Remove the turn signal lamp housing socket and replace the bulb.
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Wiper Blade
Check” in the Maintenance Schedule booklet under
Part B “Owner Checks and Services” for more information.
It’s a good idea to clean or replace the wiper blade assembly on a regular basis or when worn. For proper windshield wiper blade length and type, see “Normal
Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the Index
To replace the wiper blade assembly:
1. Turn the ignition to ACC and turn the wipers on.
Position the wipers on the windshield in the “mid” wipe position. Then with the door open, turn the ignition to OFF.
2. Tip the blade up almost to a “T” position and push down on the tab to release the wiper blade assembly.
3. To install, align the wiper blade with the loop on the wiper blade assembly, and push up to snap into place.
Your new vehicle comes with high
quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your Cadillac Warranty booklet for details.
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
D Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction.
You could have an air
out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as
overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut,
punctured or broken by a sudden impact
-such as when you hit a pothole. Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
Tire Pressure” in this section for inflation pressure adjustment for higher speed driving.
Inflation -- Tire Pressure
Loading Information label, which is located on the rear edge of the driver’s door, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
If you’ll be driving at high speeds (e.g., speeds of
100 mph (160 km/h) or higher), where it is legal, set the cold inflation pressure to the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall, or to 38 psi
(265 kPa), whichever is lower. See the example below.
When you end this high
speed driving, return to the cold inflation pressure shown on the Tire
You’ll find maximum load and inflation pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, in small letters, near the rim flange. It will read something like this: Maximum load 690 kg (1521 lbs.) @ 300 kPa (44 psi) Max. Press.
For this example, you would set the inflation pressure for high
speed driving at 38 psi (265 kPa).
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:
D Too much flexing
D Too much heat
D Tire overloading
D Bad wear
D Bad handling
D Bad fuel economy.
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:
D Unusual wear
D Bad handling
D Rough ride
D Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It should be at
60 psi (420 kPa).
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket
type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and
“Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Maintenance Schedule booklet for scheduled rotation intervals.
Don’t include the compact spare tire in your tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Tire
Information label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
(See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.)
When rotating your tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here.
When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:
D You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Tire
Loading Information label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all
season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a
TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type
belted or radial) as your original tires.
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias
belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.
It’s all right to drive with your compact spare, though. It was developed for use on your vehicle.
If you use bias
ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial
ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance.
(This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter
type snow tires, space
saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited
While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to Federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.
AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight
ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109. Grades
B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load
carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.
Used Replacement Wheels
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
If your vehicle has P235/55R17 size tires, don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.
Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the front tires.
If you have other tires, use tire chains only where legal and only when you must. Use only SAE Class
“S” type chains that are the proper size for your tires. Install them on the front tires and tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
D Carbon Tetrachloride
D Paint Thinner
D Lacquer Thinner
D Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
some more than others
and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
D Laundry Soap
D Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.
Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi
Cleaner and Capture Non
Solvent Dry Spot and Soil
Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Here are some cleaning tips:
D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
D Clean up stains as soon as you can
before they set.
D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.
You may have to do it more than once.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.
D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent
based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
Cleaning Wood Panels
Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water
(use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth.
Cleaning Speaker Covers
Vacuum around a speaker cover gently, so that the speaker won’t be damaged. Clean spots with just water and mild soap.
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection.
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.
Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with GM
Windshield Cleaner, Bon Ami
scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full
strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. (See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule booklet.)
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
(See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all
cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer. (See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.)
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non
abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non
abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
Cleaning Aluminum or
Plated Wheels (If Equipped)
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied.
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on any wheels other than chrome
Use chrome polish only on chrome
plated wheels, but avoid any painted surface of the wheel, and buff off immediately after application.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes. These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.
based products may damage the paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti
corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch
up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet
shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, Cadillac will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
23 in. x 25 in.
Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Exterior polishing cloth
Tar and Road Oil Remover Removes tar, road oil and asphalt
Chrome Cleaner and Polish Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
32 oz. (0.946 L) Vinyl Cleaner
23 oz. (0.680 L) Glass Cleaner
8 oz. (0.237 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
8 oz. (0.237 L)
2.5 sq. ft.
12 oz. (0.354 L)
Armor All t Protectant
Capture Dry Spot Remover
Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls
Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas t, plastic, rubber and vinyl
Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels and floor mats
Spray on and rinse with water
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Silicone Tire Shine
Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
Shines vehicle without scratching
Spray on tire shine
Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants
Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Maintenance Schedule booklet.
* For exterior use only.
** Not recommended for use on instrument panels.
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.
Service Parts Identification Label
You’ll find this label on the under side of the spare tire cover in the trunk. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:
D your VIN,
D the model designation,
D paint information and
D a list of all production options and special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
Add-On Electrical Equipment
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add
on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing
Your Air Bag
Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
The headlamp wiring system has four individual fuses,
LF low, RF low, LF high and RF high. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off. If this happens, have the headlamp wiring checked right away.
Windshield Wiper Fuses
A circuit breaker protects the wiper motor. If the wiper motor overheats due to heavy snow, the wipers will stop until the motor cools and will then restart.
powers the wiper motor. If the MiniFuse blows, there is an electrical problem. Be sure to have it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options
Circuit breakers protect the power windows and power seats. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.
Look at the silver
colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating. If a MaxiFuse should blow, see your dealer for service immediately.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can “borrow” one that has the same amperage. Pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without
like the radio or cigarette lighter
and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage.
Replace it as soon as you can.
The MaxiFuses are located in two Bussed Electrical
Centers (BEC), one located near the engine compartment on the passenger’s side and the other under the rear seat on the driver’s side. If a MaxiFuse should blow, have your vehicle serviced by your dealer immediately.
Underhood Junction Block
The front Bussed Electrical Center (BEC) is located next to the engine on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
To access the fuse block, push in the two tabs located on the top and the bottom of the fuse block cover.
Assembly Line Diagnostic Link
Headlamp Low Beam Left
Headlamp Low Beam Right
Powertrain Control Module Battery
Headlamp High Beam Right
Headlamp High Beam Left
Injector Bank #2
Powertrain Control Module Ignition
Injector Bank #1
Cigar Lighter #2
Cigar Lighter #1
Daytime Running Lamps
Air Conditioner Clutch
Headlamp High Beam
Headlamp Low Beam
Daytime Running Lamps
Air Conditioner Clutch
Cooling Fan Secondary
Cooling Fan Series/Parallel
Cooling Fan Primary
Circuit Breaker Usage
Lock Brake System
Air Pump B
Air Pump A
Cooling Fan Secondary
Cooling Fan Primary
The spare fuses are located in numbers 48 through 52.
The fuse puller is located in number 53.
Removing the Rear Seat Cushion
The battery and main fuse boxes are located under the rear seat cushion. The battery’s ground terminal and some relay wires are exposed. To help avoid damage to the battery and wires, be careful when removing or reinstalling the seat cushion. Do not remove covers from covered parts. Do not store anything under the seat, as objects could touch exposed wires and cause a short.
To Remove the Rear Seat Cushion
1. Pull up on the front of the cushion to release the front hooks.
2. Pull the cushion up and out toward the front of the vehicle.
To Reinstall the Rear Seat Cushion
A safety belt that isn’t properly routed through the seat cushion or is twisted won’t provide the protection needed in a crash. If the safety belt hasn’t been routed through the seat cushion at all, it won’t be there to work for the next passenger. The person sitting in that position could be badly injured. After reinstalling the seat cushion, always check to be sure that the safety belts are properly routed and are not twisted.
4. Check to make sure the safety belts are properly routed and that no portion of any safety belt is trapped under the seat. Also make sure the seat cushion is secured.
Rear Underseat Bussed Electrical Center
1. Buckle the center passenger position safety belt, then route the safety belts through the proper slots in the seat cushion. Don’t let the safety belts get twisted.
2. Slide the rear of the cushion up and under the seatback so the rear
locating guides hook into the wire loops on the back frame.
3. With the seat cushion lowered, push rearward and then press down on the seat cushion until the spring locks on both ends engage.
The rear BEC is located under the rear seat on the driver’s side. The rear seat cushion must be removed to access the BEC. See “Removing the Rear Seat Cushion” in the Index.
Heater, Ventilation and Air
Memory Seat, Tilt and
Driver Door Module
Heated Seat Left Rear
Power Tilt and Telescoping
Supplemental Inflation Restraint
Lamps Park Right
Fuel Tank Ventilation Solenoid
Interior Lamp Dimmer Module
Heated Seat Left Front
Right Rear Door Module
Retained Accessory Power for
Lamps, Parking Left
Passenger Door Module
Rear HVAC Blower
Continuous Variable Road
Ignition 3 Rear
Antilock Braking System
Heated Seat, Right Front
Heated Seat, Right Rear
Park Brake A
Park Brake B
Park Shift Interlock
Retained Accessory Power for Sunroof
Fuel Tank Door Release
Right Rear Defog
Right Rear Lumbar, Power
The spare fuses are located in numbers 70 through 74.
The fuse puller is located in number 75.
Lower High Beam
Upper Low Beam
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Turn Signal
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3157 NA
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3157
Capacities and Specifications
The following approximate capacities are given in
English and metric conversions. Please refer to
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the
Maintenance Schedule booklet for more information.
. . . . . . . . . 279 cubic inches (4 565 cc)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6 L DOHC V8
VIN Engine Code
DeVille and DHS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DeVille and DHS
. . . . . . . . 275 (bhp) @ 5600 rpm
205 (kW) @ 5600 rpm
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 (bhp) @ 6000 rpm
224 (kW) @ 6000 rpm
DeVille and DHS
. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ft) @ 4000 rpm
407 (N·m) @ 4000 rpm
ft) @ 4400 rpm
400 (N·m) @ 4400 rpm
Firing Order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermostat Starts To Open . .
Wheel Nut Torque
ft (140 N·m)
E) . . . . . . . . . . 15.0 quarts (14.2 L)
Crankcase (Engine Oil with Filter Change) . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine Cooling System . . . . . .
7.5 quarts (7.1 L)
10.68 quarts (10.1 L)
Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18.5 gallons (70.1 L)
Air Conditioning Refrigerant . . . . . . . . See refrigerant charge label under the hood.
NOTE: All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the approximate level, as recommended in this manual. Recheck fluid level after filling.
Air Filter Element
Fuel Filter Element
Engine Oil Filter
. . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .
AC Type A 1208C
AC Type GF
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Type PF
PCV Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Type CV
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Type 41
Gap: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.050 inches (1.3 mm)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AC Type 131
Windshield Wiper Blade
(Shepard’s Hook Type) . . . . . . . 22 inches (56.5 cm)
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113.8 inches (289.1 cm)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209.78 inches (532.6 cm)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56.4 inches (143.2 cm)
Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.5 inches (194.3 cm)
Front Tread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.9 inches (154.6 cm)
Rear Tread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.9 inches (154.6 cm)
* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project