BOAT OPERATON. ISLAND PACKET Island Packet 380 Otter
Below you will find brief information for sailboat Island Packet 380 Otter. This manual is intended to assist all skippers, crew, and guests aboard in feeling more comfortable with the basic systems and how they work. The manual is organized by system and includes information on engine operation, sails and rigging, docking, anchoring, electrical systems, sanitation systems, water systems, galley systems, heating systems, electronics systems, bilge pumps, thru-hull sea cocks, dodger and bimini, and safety equipment. This document also includes a troubleshooting section for common problems that may arise.
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BOAT OPERATON
ENGINE
Otter has a Yanmar 56 horsepower auxiliary engine (Model – 4JH3E). The engine drives a three-blade propeller forward and reverse. There is a single control lever that operates both the throttle and transmission.
On the engine control panel there are gages for RPM, oil pressure, engine hour counter and water temperature.
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A sound alarm is provided to indicate high fresh water temperature and low oil pressure. The engine will propel Otter at about 6.5 knots in calm water at 2800 RPM. We ask that you maintain engine RPM between
2600 for cruising. Higher throttle settings will only minimally increase speed, but will greatly increase fuel consumption and wear on the engine. Please limit higher throttle settings for emergency situations.
Otter has noticeable prop-walk to port in reverse. When in reverse, be careful to keep a firm grip on the wheel and use only low RPMs.
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Starboard engine compartment door
(located in galley) showing the yellow oil dip stick and yellow oil fill cap.
Aft engine compartment showing coolant reservoir, Racor fuel filter and fuel pump switch.
Use the fuel pump switch to purge the air out of the fuel line after changing Racor fuel filters.
The ignition switch must be turned on (without the engine running) to activate this fuel pump.
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Engine Inspection
Each day you are planning to use the engine, you should check the COOLANT, OIL, BILGES, BELTS, and
SEA STRAINER by remembering you’re “WOBBS”: Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and Pump-
out), Belts and Sea Strainer
Engine Coolant:
Check the level of coolant in the expansion tank located under the aft berth at the stern of the engine. Engine coolant is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. There is coolant kept on board in a locker under the aft berth mattress and should be located during your orientation.
Engine Oil:
Check the oil level in the engine with the dipstick located on the starboard side of the Engine. The oil level should be anywhere between the high and low marks (Otter seems to do best with the oil at the half way between the marks). Spare oil is kept on board in a locker under the aft cabin sole, and should be located during your orientation.
The companionway ladder must be lifted to access the engine to add oil. A red funnel for the oil is located under the floor in the aft cabin.
If you need to add oil, please use great care not to overfill. Running the engine with too much oil will cause damage.
Bilges:
Remove the cabin sole panel near the navigation station to check the bilges. There is normally a small amount of water in the bilge. Check for debris, oil, or anything unusual. The Yanmar engine is cooled by a heat exchanger. The engine pumps sea water through a sea water strainer, then through a heat exchanger that cools the coolant fluid, thus cooling the engine. The sea water is then pumped overboard.
Belts:
Check the general condition of the belts, hoses, and fuel lines.
Sea Strainer:
The sea water strainer is located forward of the companion way ladder under the flooring grate. It should be checked daily, as it can clog with seaweed and other debris. To check the strainer, shine a flashlight through the plastic bulb. If debris is visible it will have to be removed. To clear debris from the strainer, close the thru-hull valve located to port and below the strainer. Unscrew the bronze screw holding the lid of the strainer. Otter seems to attract very little debris.
Startup
Set both battery selector switches to the ON position. (See battery section for additional information related to the battery selector switch). The battery selector switch is located in the aft cabin. Place the throttle/shift lever in low/neutral (straight up and centered). Push in the black button located on the center of the throttle lever to disengage the linkage to the transmission, then move the throttle forward about one quarter. Turn
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the key to the ON position. You will hear the audible alarm sound. Turn the key to the start position until engine starts. When starting cold, allow the engine to warm up at an idle for TEN MINUTES prior to applying a load. If load is applied before the engine warms it may seize. Normal idle speed is 1000 RPM.
Be sure the audible alarm is not sounding. It should stop when the engine starts. NOTE: Do not hold the start key for more that FIFTEEN SECONDS at a time. If the engine does not start the first time, wait a few seconds before trying again. Please remember NEVER TURN THE KEY OFF WHILE THE ENGINE IS
RUNNING! You will do serious alternator damage. It should always remain on. Engine alarms will not work when the key is off. While the engine is warming, check for water exiting the exhaust. You may not be able to see the water, but you should be able to hear it exit with the exhaust.
Shifting
To engage the transmission, move the throttle/shift lever to the low/neutral (straight up) position. Push throttle forward for forward propulsion, or back for backward propulsion.
Shutdown
Place the throttle/shift lever in neutral and allow the engine to cool down for several minutes. Usually this is about the amount of time it takes to secure your lines and plug into shore power. Push the STOP button until the engine stops. The audible alarm will sound until the key is switched off. Never turn off the key until the engine is fully stopped!
Fueling Up
You will need to fuel up before returning to the slip at the end of your charter. The fuel tank holds 85 gallons of diesel fuel. Before refueling, have an “oil/fuel sorbs” handy to soak up spilled fuel. You should have a rough idea of the number of gallons you will need by the fuel gauge and by the hour meter. Otter uses approximately 1 gallon per hour. The fuel filler cap is located on the port deck forward of the gate.
CHECK THAT YOU HAVE THE CORRECT DECK OPENING! Do not add water or pump-out at the same time you are fueling. Use only DIESEL FUEL! Place the diesel fuel nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and evenly, and note the sound of the fuel flow. Pumping too fast may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in spouting from the tank opening. It is best to station a crew member at the fuel gauge at the navigation desk to alert you as the fuel tank approaches full. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the tank overflow vent. There is a special whistle that sounds as the fuel enters the tank. This warbling will sputter as the fuel tank reaches full. Do not top off, and be prepared to catch spilled fuel. Spillage may result in a fine from law enforcement. Replace deck cap.
Caution – Clean up splatter and spillage immediately for environmental and health reasons. Wash hands with soap and water thoroughly.
Trouble Shooting Engine Problems
Engine Overheating:
1. Immediately shut engine down. The most likely cause is clogging of the sea water strainer. This condition may be preceded by black smoke from the exhaust. Follow procedure above to clear the strainer.
Check to be sure water is exiting with the exhaust. If water is not exiting with the exhaust, then check the sea strainer. If it is full of sea weed or eel grass, close the raw water intake then open the sea strainer and clean out, replace cover and open the raw water intake valve.
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2. If seawater is getting to the engine, the next likely cause is low coolant level. Check the coolant level by observing the expansion tank. If coolant level is low, add coolant from the pre-mixed jug to the expansion tank. Never open the radiator cap when the engine is hot, as this could cause severe burns.
Low Oil Pressure:
1. Immediately shut engine down.
2. Check oil level. Add oil if necessary. Use care not to overfill oil.
3. If the engine oil level is not low, DO NOT RESTART. Contact AYC or other personnel listed on the emergency contact list in the gray manual.
Alternator Failure:
You may keep running the engine, but be aware the batteries are not being charged. Conserve on engine and battery use. Check the engine belts. Contact AYC immediately.
Engine Dies And Won’t Restart:
Contact AYC immediately.
GETTING UNDERWAY
Close the portholes, windows, and forward hatch. Disconnect shore power and store cord. Once outside the marina, idle the engine while the crew brings in fenders and lines. Assign one crew member to close hatches and ports. The dingy is best carried on the davits. Please do not tow the dingy.
SAILS AND RIGGING
The fully battened, mainsail is the main driver under sail in this sloop rig sail plan. It is this feature that allows for great sailing in light air. This sail plan however requires early reefing in stronger winds. 15 knots would not be too early for the first reef. This rig has single spreaders and a double backstay. This allows free access to the swim platform. It also means that dead downwind sailing places the sail on the spreaders. A broad reach, with close attention to keeping the sail off the spreaders, is recommended. As there is no
“preventer,” take care with jibing – for your sake, and for the protection of the gear. The jib is furled. The furling line is led aft to the cockpit. To unfurl the headsail, (a) uncleat the furling line, (b) wrap the sheet around the appropriate winch, (c) pull the sheet aft while maintaining tension on the furling line, (d) cleat when desired reefing level has been achieved. To furl the jib, apply slight tension on the jib sheet while pulling on the furling line until it is fully furled. Place three or so wraps of the jib sheets to hold the sail.
Jib sheets are led to the cockpit to the winches. Adjust fairleads forward in heavy wind, aft in light wind.
The jiffy reefing has two reefs. To apply a reef, go head to windward, lower the mainsail halyard, tie the forward reef line under the boom, snug the associated reef line, then raise the mainsail halyard and resume sailing. Jib sheets, mainsheet, halyards, and traveler are all operated from the cockpit. There is a hard adjustable boomvang. A lazyjack type system simplifies sail handling. There is no whisker pole, and no spinnaker.
Troubleshooting Sails and Rigging
1. Mainsail resists being raised: Check all lines. Both reefing lines should be loose and flopping. The boomvang should be loose. The mainsheet should be eased. The battens should not be stuck on the lazyjack.
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If they are, lower the sail and be sure to be head to wind on raising the sail again. Check that the mainsail is moving smoothly up the slot in the boom. Do not force anything.
2. Furling line gets stuck partway through the furling process: This is usually due to not applying proper tension on lines in furling and unfurling process. Try letting the jib out and repeating the process. Be sure you are headed into the wind to reduce pressure on the rig. If this fails you could have an over-ride in the furling drum that needs to be fixed.
3. Unable to point with reef in place: Probably have not snugged the reef line sufficiently. Repeat process and be sure lines are snug before raising the halyard.
DINGHY
We strongly suggest the use of the dingy davits to store the dingy at night and when underway (one always knows where the dingy is in the morning). Many dinghies are lost underway.
When rowing your dinghy to shore, use EXTREME CAUTION. Choose an area free of any large rocks that might cause harm in beaching. Use the dinghy wheels to make it easier to beach the dinghy. Lift up the bow and roll the dinghy to bring it up to higher ground. Please never drag it. Secure it when leaving as the tides come up quickly. The foot pump for the dinghy is stored in the starboard cockpit lazarette. There is a patch kit onboard if the dinghy is ruptured.
DOCKING
Have your crew make ready the lines and fenders, and give clear instructions on how you will be docking.
Have bow, stern, and spring lines ready. Often times it is best to lead dock lines to the mid section of the boat where your crew member can easily step off and secure either line. As you are coming in to dock, have your best communicator midships to give you distances from the dock. It is often hard to judge how close the dock is. Calling out distances (i.e. 20 feet, 10 feet, 4 feet, etc.) will only add to a successful docking.
If you find you are too far off the dock, BACK OFF and re-approach. It is better to re-approach than to lose crew over the side…
MOORING CANS (BUOYS)
The Washington State Parks sticker on Otter allows you to use the mooring cans in the marine parks for free. You only need to register at the kiosk, usually located at the head of the docks. Mooring cans have a metal triangle at the top, upon which is a metal ring. The metal ring is attached to the chain which secures your boat. IT IS VERY HEAVY. The strongest member of your crew should be chosen for this job. Come up to the mooring can into the wind as you would for anchoring. Have crew members on the bow, one with a boat hook and one with a mooring line secured like a bow line. As you are coming slowly up to the can, have the crew holding the boat hook point at the can with the hook so the skipper always knows where it is.
Hook the can and bring the ring up to the boat to allow the second crew member to thread the ring with the line. Release the boat hook. If your mooring line is led out the starboard cleat, bring the end of the line back to the port side cleat. You will essentially create a bridle with about 10 feet of slack from the cleats to the can.
ANCHORING
Otter carries a plow type anchor on the bow attached to 250 feet of chain. There is a windlass which is controlled by foot switches on the foredeck near the windless.
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The public link to your chat has been updated.
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Key features
- Sleeps 4-5
- 56 HP Yanmar Diesel
- Fully Battened Main
- Easy-Jack Reefing System
- Propane Stove/Oven
- Refrigeration with Freezer
- Diesel Cabin Heat
- VHF Radio
- Depth Sounder
- GPS