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‘! fl fli U C C - a St a a S S S S S S S S S S - — a k4 a <a <“4t1 I, I 1 ‘C iM, L ja t IL i t %kc :. #%%%%% I 14’ it S ‘If e ‘a; 4 ‘a 4 I Table of Contents Set to Sew Designer SE Simply ExcellenO Index Help Quick Help Threads Pictogram Pen Stabilizers Needles Sewing Advisor Fabric Selection The Stitch Menu Thread Tension The Function Butt( )fl5 Begin Sewing Finish Sewing Seam Overcast Seam and Overcast Searn:Overcast for Ribbing Baste Blind Flem 1-1cm jeans 1-1cm Stretch Hem PBB ( Perfectly Balanced Buttonhole) Sew the P13 Button — 1-4 — 1-22 1-4 1-4 1-4 1 -S 1-S I-S 1-6 1-7 1-fl’ 1-H 1-H I —9 1-10 1-10 1-11 1-12 I 13 1-15 1-16 1—17 1-19 1-19 l-l) 1—20 1-21 1-22 — Utility Garment Sewing Utility Sewing — Menu A Straight Stitch Stretch Stitch Gathering Twenty—nine Needle Positi Center Zipper Reinforced Straight Stitch Multiple ZigZag Stitches Bartacks Secure Belt L( )( )S Darning and Mending Patching and Tears Attach Elastic Stitch table Menu A — — 2-18 24 1 1 2 1 )flS — Buttonholes 2-I Menu B C )rded Butt( )nh( )Ie (Stretch fabrics ) Step—by—Step Buttonh )le Butt( mhole I )ensitv Cutting Buttonholes Bound buttonhole 13 2-S 2-6 2-7 2-8 2-H 2-9 2-9 2—10 2- 11 2-12 2—1 .3 2— 13 2— 14 2— 1-i 2—14 I 1 I I I I I I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I a I I 0 0 11 1 3-1—3-26 Decorative/C rafting Pictogram — 3-2 3—2 Menu C Pictograin Dower Heirloom Sewing — 3-3 3-3 Menu D Entredeux Lace Insertion Hemstitching. Wing needle 3-3 3--i 3-5 Cross Stitches Smocking Quilting — 3-7 3-7 Menu E Piecing Decorative Stitch Tie Quilting Stipple Quilting Channel Quilting Edge/Quilting Guide Hand—look Quilting Crazy Quilting Appliqué — 3—8 3-8 3-9 Embroidery 4-I —4-20 Embroider with your Designer SE Embroidery of Different Fabrics I Icop Ease Prepare for Embroidery Loading Designs on your Designer SE Fh ver Embroider “Boys & Girls” Embroider Appliqués Cutwork Embroidery Chenille Quilt Embroidery Interactive Designer Customizing 1—13 Simply Excellent howe r pattern 1-3 i—S 1—10 i— 11 1— 1 2 4-13 -i— 19 — 3-9 3-10 3-10 3-13 Menu F File Manager 5-I — 5-10 5-2 Move a File to a ew Folder Add flies from your Personal Computer .5-5 5-7 5-7 Open designs from a Floppy Disk Move designs to “My Designs” 5-H Remove files from your Designer SF Transfer designs from a CI) to your [‘S13 Enibroiderv Stick with your Personal Computer 5—9 5—10 — Taper Satin Stitch “Handlook” Heirloom Appliqué Decorative Sewing — — 3—15 Adjust the Decorative Stitches 4-Way Stitches — 3-16 Menu G, L-N 3-16 — 3-17 Menu S 3—18 Menu T 3-19 — 8-Way Stitches — 3-20 Lettering 3-20 Programming Scallop Stitching — Menu H Ominimotion Stitches — Menu K Special Stitches (Free Motion) Free Motion Stippling — — 3-23 3-24 Stitch Overview 6-I —6-6 3-25 Index 7-I —7-3 Menu V 3-26 3-26 0 Sc! Designer SE — Simply Excellent! ihe creatnepossiblities with )‘our Designer SE sewing machine are almost endless. The only limitations are set by ‘our imagination. In this Ilaiidbook ‘0ll iii!! learii boii’ l’OltJ Designer SE can make your (ar1;ients and selling projects siinptr Leari to sen on a button and hon tof)llt iii a Dpper iii an L-’tiS) 11 ‘civ. The section u ‘ith decoratu ‘e sen ‘ii ig inspires iou u jib heirloom seu’ing. .sniocking. crazy (/1/iltilig and inor’. With your Designer SE. c’inhroideriiig is easier and Inore/illi than ei’er 1 Read about bou’ to prepare/br em hroideri’ a izd /bllou’ the exercises to learn c/i//brent embroidery techniques. When oii take your Desigiu’r SE On ‘iier s at’oier retailer bring Class ibis Handbook. Step-by-step Exercises I ki The Seving Advisor instantl ‘.eI t I stitch, stitch length, stitch width, Iii su )I ‘ Index Help ur Designer SE has a built—in shortened ‘rse of the User’s Guide, accessible through on toolbar. Search the help topics in alphabetical order under Index or by categories under Cate ‘( gor. Quick Help If you, at any time, want to learn about any button or part of the Interactie Designer Screen, the Quick Help is there to guide you. Simply touch on the toolbar and then any button on the screen. A pop-up window will give you a short explanation. Your Designer SE features the Exclusive Husq varna Viking Sewing Ad isor. When beginning a sewing project. touch your fabric type and weight then touch the technique you desire to /i sew. k 1* new Designer SE! 0 1-4 a n se Use this hook as a tutorial. There are step—bystep sewing instructions and special places to staple your sewn samples and make notes. Find your Designer SE Instruction CD at the inside of the back cover of your I ‘ser’s Guide. Click our way through the Overview and practise with interactive sewing and embroidery exercises to get started with your ‘ Foot Pressure and sewing speed. and :‘IS recommendations to make your iiy This I Tandbook will teach you how to achieve the best sewing and embroidery results possible. Basic information on different types of fabrics and stabilizers is included. Always stitch a test on a scrap piece of the fabric you are going to sew embroider on. Instruction CD I \ )L I Set tO SL1i Threads Stabilizers There are many threads on the market today developed for different purposes. TEAR-AWAY ALL PURPOSE SEWING THREAD is made of synthetic, cotton or COttOfl covered polyester. This type of thread is used for sewing garments and projects. is made of various fibers rayon. polyester. acrylic or metallic. These threads create a smooth glossy appearance for embroidery and other decorative stitching. EMBROIDERY THREAD - \Vhen embroidering, use embroidery bobbin thread. When using a metallic or a flat film thread for embroidering. V( NJ need to use a needle with a larger eve and k wer the embroidery speed. thread the sewing machine with the spool in the vertical position. NOTE: may also called monofilament thread. is single clear synthetic thread. it is used for quilting and other decorative sewing. Thread TRANSPARENT THREAD. the sewing machine with the spool in the verti— cal position. stabilizers are used with stable woven fabrics. Place underneath fabric for decorative stitching or hoop with the fabric when embroi— dering. Tear away excess stabilizer after stitch ing. is a totally stable stabilizer that has a slick side that will iron on to fabric. It is recommended for knits and all unstable fabrics. Fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric before decorative stitching or hooping. lear away excess stabilizer after stitching. IRON-ON TEAR-AWAY CUT-AWAY STABILIZER does not tear so the excess It is recommended for knits has to be and all unstable fabrics. especially for hoop embroidery. cut away. is placed on top of the fabric when embellishing-embroidering napped and looped fabrics such as terry cloth. When emhroidering cutwork, use it underneath the fabric. Place your work in water to dissolve the excess stabilizer. it is available in different thick WATER SOLUBLE STABILIZER nesses. TM Pen Pictogram Air and water soluble marker embroidery, Pictograms and all types of fabrics. The color disappears after a few hours. You can also use cold water to completely remove the markings before ironing. Make sure that all markings are removed before ironing. for DISINTEGRATING STABILIZER is a stable, loosely woven fabric that is used for techniques such as cutwork and to crochet off the flibric edge. The stabilizer disappears with heat. is used for hoop embroidery when the fabric to be embroidered is too delicate or too small to be hooped. Hoop the sticky stabilizer with the paper side up. Remove the paper and stick the project to he embroidered Onto the sticky surface. l’ear away sticky stabi STICKY STABILIZER lizer after stitching. Some f ibiis h nc cxuss dc hiih c in c Iusc dioloi ition On othcr I ibtics or on our scv ing in iihinc I his discoloi ing rn i be vcry difficult or impossible to rcmo e I hcc ifldl dId full ilit id pcci ilk in red andi blue, often contain a lot of excess dye. It ou uspcct th n uu I ubi IC Ic id tO-\\ C 11 garmcnt cont llflS i lot of cxccss dlVc tl tys ish it bctoic sc.v ung cmbroidc ring to i\ oid thc dIlSd( )l( )t itii )fl prc-w --: ‘-5 (/ 10 S(’U Needles D B The sewing machine needle plays an important role in successful sewing. To ensure you will get a quality needle, we recommend Schmetz system 1.30 05H needles. The needle package included with ‘our l)esigrier F contains needles oven of the m )st popular sizes for sewing on and stretch fabrics. A — 0 0 0 Universal Needles For all woven fabrics. The slightly rounded needle ( )int is designed to penetrate between the threads of the fabric SC) the fabric v ill not he damaged. Stretch Needles For knit and stretch fabrics. ‘l’he stretch needle is marked yelk w and has a rounded point to prevent damaging knit fabric. B \ — \ b C Embroidery Needle Special needle for embroidering \vith metallic or decorative threads. Marked red. — 5/ / N Change the needle often. Always use a straight needle ith a sharp point (at. NOTE: D —Wing Needle F r hemstitching in natural fiber woven fabrics with special stitches on the Heirloom Stitches Menu 1). [he needle has “wings to push the threads of the fabric aside forming holes where the needle penetrates the fabric. \ damaged needle ( fit can cause skipped stitches. breakage ( t needles or snapping of thread. A dam aged needle can also damage the needle plate. ‘Flie twin needle is an C ptional accessory. It has two separate needles mounted onto one shank, I se for decorative sewing. top stitching and t in needle tucks. Consult the Accessory I ‘ser’s Guide for more information ‘[he jeans needle is another ( )ptional accessoi’y. I se for men heavy fabrics, k)r example denim and can as fabric. The jeans needle is marked blue and has an extremely sharp point t( ) facilitate the penetrating of densely VO en tabric. 6 - ________________ Set to Seu, Sewing Advisor I (? )oiir J)Lciiler Sl-.Jeatnres the J.vclusn’e IIiicqiar;ia liking Sewing Advisor Ills a/ua’s aclii’c’ and is located at the bottom qlthe fiiter ac/lie Des4i,sner Screen. When h ‘in’nng a sewing pro/eel. touch )‘our/ahric type and neigh!. 101/cl) the technique you desire to sen. :.o Aj A12 then ihe Sen/ag Advisor sets the best lenLth, stitch width, and sewing speed!orroiir pro/ect. )bur Designer SE also sets the thread tclz—\ s/on and Sensor Foot I’ressure. See the stitch and \ the best presserjbotJhr the selected /abric and tech Iliqile. L CgDfE I = ,,, , [A ) vi —J c / / / © !:: Select the fabric weight and t pe you are sewing 1w icon from the Sewing Advisor on your Inter active Designer Screen, or touch for the Extended Sewing Ad isor with text options. Select the desired sewing technique. Follow the recommendations br presser foot and needle on the Interactive t)esigner Screen. Woven 5ht Scum Wo,—nredum OvercaSt Woven heavy SeamlOceraot ytreton 5ht Baste Stretch mdktm hit OS hem Stretch ea,y ‘tern V Fabric Selection I 3 Leather ButtonhotC ‘foul Sutton Woven or Knit The difference between woven and knit fabric is the way the threads are put together. \\bven fabrics are made of two thread systems, warp lengthwise and weft crosswise, that intersect at right angles. A knit fabric is made of one thread system with interlaced stitches. A knit fabric usu ally has stretch. As a general rule, enter Woven for stable fabrics that have no stretch and Stretch for fabrics that iuve stretcit Leather and Vinyl Leather is animal skin with the coat (fur) removed. Leather can he smooth or sueded and has some give. Vinyl is a synthetic material which often has a \\)Vfl \vrong side. Vinyl can he smooth or pat terned and some vinyls have give. Read more about how to select fabric in the Lsers Guide. lt’oi eii/cihric Ki lit fabric, D ,Stl’L’1c17 !i/1l E Stretch nwdiu in lt’iic’n litht B t2oiea niediznn F ,S’tr’tci’ hen’i Xl (,li efl beaii’ lc’iitier Le’c’ither ti,iy!. H 1-7 Set to Seu’ The Stitch Menu Mf ? Follow the proceeding instructions, hut instead on of selecting a sewing technique, touch the toolbar to display all stitch menus. The submenus for each menu are shown as numbered circles when that menu is selected. Select a stitch menu and/or submenu by touching it, and then select your desired stitch in the stitch display area. For ft)nt stitches, touch menu from the list. A 4* 14 1 ‘a ‘cL’ c2 and select a font > ! foo + 1 j Thread Tension The Sewing Advisor will automatically set the thread tension for the fabric and sewing tech nique or stitch selected. To adjust the tenMon for on specialty fabrics and, or threads, touch the toolbar to open the Set Menu, and touch + The default is shown in black or in numhcrs. AdTisted numbers are shown in red. To understand the correct thread tension, sew a few sample zigzag stitches at different settings. J J FIX auto Alarm repeat J Selective Thread Cutter auto That Twin needle Owner name U El Light Seneor Qdoot Touch screen adlue* Free motion Contrast Timer 1. Begin with a tension that is too loose, i.e. set at the lowest number. The lower thread will lie straight and the upper thread will be drawn down on the underside. 3. The correct thread tension is provided when the threads interlock in the middle of both layers of material or, in the case of decorative stitches, on the underside. Screen saver Stitch width safety — 2. If you set the tension at the highest number, the opposite will occur, and the seam may pucker. S.nor Foot auto ‘lIT 1 ±J Lock screen I a L L a a 2. Make a few tests on a scrap piece of the fabric you are going to sew and check the tension. 1.8 EJjl S 3 V’/vVJ I ci’t to ,c:’U’ The Function Buttons — I • Select straight stitch A1:2. Place fabric under the presser foot. III • Touch ‘rA to activate the needle stop up down function. The needle is automatically brought to the selected position (down). When you stop seing your Designer SE stops with the needle in the fabric. This is very useful when you need to pivot the fabric. louch VA again to activate the needle st( )p up. [ to lock the stitch or hold to sew in • Touch re’erse. louch twice in quick succession for permanent reverse. • Touch STOP to finish a stitch and auton+ati cally sew a few stitches in place to tie off and stop. to lock the stitches with tiny • Touch straight stitches that sew back and forth slightly. • Select the heart stitch 1)2: +2 and begin to sew. Touch ii while Se\ ing. the stitch will immediately I )C tied off. to begin at the first stitch of a • Touch decorative stitch. ibis is useful if you have previously stopped in the middle of a decorative stitch. If you have altered a stitch width, stitch length or stitch density, it ‘ ill he remembered. while sewing and your Designer • Touch SF finishes the decorative stitch, fixes and cuts the top and bobbin threads, as \\ eli as raises the presser foot and the needle to the up pos1 tion. When you start sewing again, it will stail from the beginning of the stitch. STOP I FIX A 9 1-9 Set tu Seu I Begin sewing i Phere are tWO ways to select stitches on your [)esigner SE. Either use the Sewing Advisor, or on your Inter— touch the Stitch Menu icon acti e Designer Screen. • Place the top thread under the presser foot and to the back. When you start sewing, the bobbin thread is brought up automatically. if the bobbin thread is already brought up. place it under the presser foot and to the back t( )gether ith the t( p thread. NOTE: For best results when staring right at the edge )t the fabric, place a fInger on the threads to h )ld them in place as V( )U I )oifl. ‘ • Place fabric in position under the presser foot. • Step Ofl the foot control and begin se ing. The presser foot lowers automatically. to start and stop the machine )ut using the toot control. NOTE: I ‘Se I I I I A 02 ,‘jen ht L Cl2 jhveP meebrr heavy Z LW t’etcfl gh O.trc 3t “am. Over’-r’ 82 te Btnd hem w I Ststcheavy Hem Leather Buttouhe ith— Your Designer SE cuts the top • I ouch and bobbin threads, The presser loot and the needle are raised to the up position automati cally. L 7i Di • When sewing is complete. lift your foot from the foot control. I 1c 0et .h viedium Finish sewing I-b o 7 p ‘c’I to SLIt Seam A seani sews two pieces of fabric together with a seam alI( wance that v ill usually be pressed open. lfl most cases, edges of the seam allow— a nec arc finished with an overcast stitch I )etore se\\ ing the seam. Seams in stretch tabric imist stretch with the flibric. The stretch stitch makes a stretchv seam that is suitable br sev ing together pieces of light stretch fabric. Fabric: \Xbven medium. cut in two. Select: \X oven medium bibric and Seam tech nique. (The Sewing ,\d\ isor selects a straight stitch.) Use: Presser foot and size 8() needle as rec ominended. 4 4 Sew: • Place fabrics right sides together. Put the fabric in positi( m under the presser foot. Line up the edge with the 5 8 (15 mm) seam guide. If you need to adjust fabric, touch AV • Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. The a seam, \\ hen finished, touch • Selective Thread Cutter cuts top and bobbin hreads and the presser f H )t raises so you can remove your Project. Recoin tiwit— A diilioiijur 1:2 /)Ivs.cer/oot Illd iiceo/lo’. C D E ,_J. tVoi cii iiic’ciiiiiii itid .cemn. Straight stitch can also he used for topstitching. l’ r a m we visible t( pstitch. lengthen the stito h and use heavier thread \‘ ith a larger size needle. Fabric: Stretch light, cut in two. Select: Stretch light fhbric and Seam technique. (The Se\\ ing Advisor selects a stretch stitch.) Use: Presser foot A and size 5 stretch needle as reconi mended. 4 4 4 4 4 Sew: • Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the fabric in position under the presser h)ot. Line up the edge ith the 3 8” ( 1() mm) seam guide. If you need to adjust fabric, touch • Step on the fo )t control, The Sensor Foot lowers a ut( )maticallv. • Se a scant \k hen finished, touch The thread cutter cuts top and bobbin threads and the presser ho )ot raises so you ‘an remove your project. - il uu ‘,‘traio.ht stitch. St retch stitch. I—I ‘K! 1’’ IJI)Fi(.’ Ll l’lp tho’ni hi\ flit. It ) Overcast Woven medium Overcast (fti’t to W\ flt ha ifl Jfld to iSk1 to O\0.1( i’.i N- ii- I)I1o_’ ijr n i iIwr. Pftsso.1 loot J i o’ight l’t’(’( )I1flfl(.T([.(I l( )r I igi t l fld nmci n m tabric to pR’\ nt J)Uck’flflg i k ng ii \ on..I U I ilWiU. Pwsst.’r lO( )t I iS WU( I I) ir \\ ill S’ILot ilu. l)c.St stitch ‘10 )UI S.\\ ifl02 A(I\iS( oight i nl st itoh \\ idt I l( w I ht Li rio Icngtl i rcco Hfln untJ t hc rsscr to K )t rid need k. th arment is S(\\ Fabric: \\ovn lflo(hUflL Select: \\ ) on mdii im H ric i not ( ) rcist ing \d iso s.k’ts i k’cllnioltie. (‘Flu.’ st’p hg/ag stift h. Use: Pio.’ssei I( )( )I J ifl(I lk’(dIo. si/o. ii :is I’o.’(’( )fil : TL’fl(bo.(l. Placo. ii ie o.ILo’ (>1 J sio.Le t I iickiit..’ss ( )f I:il N-k IkIcr pIol’ 1 )Ol \\ itli [1W \\ ift’ giiidc ik )ng Iio’ (LILL’ (>1 tlu’ taT wic. Ti ic ii ftc-stop /ig/ag slit I so’\\ O\ ci ii k’ \\ ire U I ft Ic I)) keep I he co ge 0)1 the Lihiic flat. II ii iued t( ;Iji si the Lihric 1) uc h AV%—,—’ Sew: • NteJ) on I( )\\ ols c ::’:j r ’ 4 Ilk loot coflti( ,I nO )1llit ic:i liv. • So. \ to) o c ftJSt II. [ho. odo.o The Sensor l-oot I i_J Oh Ilk kilN ft. -—.-) • lotic Ii C Ii js iu 1 no’cc-:Ir\ I) I )\ eic;o’I b ilIlo’I (>1 \ iI) I l’)L’oJU”(..’ Il(’\ LI) 11< II ti:i\ I I) )‘\t’\t.’I. tI1c’ “e\\ i11L \d sI ,Ibbo\ S \ I)) I. I okso’çl. ‘-n.kcI IL’IIIIL’r \ii)\ I io )fl \c >111 Se\\ing \d\ i e ‘chn u 1 1 I ) ec,1 I,obric ilk si Ito hr Is c’l’c R \ r (‘lift S.’\\ n NOTE: S( ‘ Ii ii .SL’f 11) Seii j Seam and Overcast Ihe Seam Overcast stitch sews the seam and ‘. ercasts time edges all at one time. There are a number of different Seam Overcast stitches on our l)esigner SE. Your Sewing Advisor will select the best one for your fabric and make all adjustments automaticall. Stretch light B 1 4 E f%FGH 5 16 — Fabric: Stretch light, cut in two. Select: Stretch light and Seam Overcast on the Sewing Advisor. Use: Presser foot .1 and size — stretch needle recommended. L Sew: • Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the F ftibric in position under the presser foot with the wire guide on the foot along the edge of the fabric. • Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • Seam Overcast along one edge. • Touch . Repeat the Seam Overcast technique on stretch heavy fabric and on woven heavy fabric. ‘your Sewing Ad isor vill select the best stitch, stitch length, stitch width, tension, Sensor Foot Pres— sure and sewing speed for each fabric type. Follow other recommendations given on the Interactive Designer Screen. S I - -j 1-13 — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — ‘.. — — — — — — — — — — Set to See SeamlOvercast for Ribbing iie Seam. Overcast technique is perfect for stitching ribbed neckbands and cuffs. Fabric: Sweatshirt fabric and ribbing strip. Stretch medium .J Seam/overcast 1]2idV Select: Stretch medium and Seam overcast. Use: Presser foot B and size 90 stretch needle as recommended. Thread: Regular sewing thread. Cut a mock neckline in the stretch fabric. Fold the ribbing double. Put the sweatshirt material and the ribbing right sides together. Sew the ribbing to the fabric with a I -i (6 mm) seam allowance. Stretch the ribbing while sewing. I_Ic S/ 1 S’u Baste Woven medium Basting is temporary stitching or fitting garments, gathering and marking. 11 The Sewing Advisor automatically sets a long stitch length and reduces the tension SO the threads are easy to remove or to pull f r gathering. c Baste 1PD E F fjj3 ‘15 i Fabric: Xbven medium, cut in two. Select: \\oven medium fabric and Baste. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recommended. Place the fabrics right sides together. Put the fabric in position under the presser foot. If you need to adjust the fabric, touch A1 Seam allowance: 8 (15 mm). Sew: • Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • Stitch along seam line. • Touch . • Pull bobbin thread tO remove stitching. I S $ S L S S S S (_‘t If) )(‘lI Blind hem Woven medium Blind Hem The blind hem creates an invisible hem on gar ments, Ihere ai•e tVo types of blind hem; one is rec )mmeflded f( r medium to heavy woven labrics, the oil icr br stretch. The blind hem is not suggested for light weight fabric, hut your Sewing Advisor will select the best stitch possible. Fabric: ‘Cc)ol or other mediumweight materials. Select: Woven medium and I3lind Hem. Use: Presser foot I) and size 80 needle as rec ommended. Thread: Regular sewing thread. Hh - -w F I’ Fold the fabric as illustrated. Make sure the folded edge of the fabric follows the inside of the right ‘toe of presser foot I). Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically The left swing of the needle should just catch the edge of the bIded fabric, if neccessarv, adjust the stitch width as needed to barely )fl the width “catch the fold by touching + or adjustment icon on our Interactive I)esigner Screen. louch — ‘-‘7 N S’t to Sou Hem I he 1 1cm technqrie on our Sewing Advisor ill select the isible rar topsmch hem that is bust for yr ur fabric weight and type. For woven lal ric and leather and vin1, a straight stitch is selected. For stretch fabrics, stitches that stretch dfe selected. Woven hea Hem BgpJD E 2 3 4 Jeans Hem \Vhen sewing o er seams in extra heax v fabric or a blue jeans hem. the toot can tip as it rides over the seam. The needle can hit the tipped loot and break. t se the clearance plate to bat ance the height of the hem as von se\V. Fabric: Jeans fabric. Select: \Xbven heavy and I {em. Use: Presser foot B as recommended and size 00 jeans needle. Touch vii to select needle do\vn ( )siti( )n. Begin se ing the bottom hem at or near the center back. As you near the side seam, stop sewing. Your Designer SF stops with the needle in the fabric and raises the presser foot. Insert the clearance plate From behind. Both sides of the clearance plate are raised. se the side hich corresponds closest to Ithe thickness of the seam. Step on foot con trol to lower the presser F )ot and c )ntinue sewing slo\\ hy o er the thick seam. 2. Stop sewing again just in front of the seam notice how the needle is in the falwici. Remove the rhearance plate and re insert it under the presser for )t fr m the front. a few stitches until the hole presser Sew foot has passed the seam and is resting on the clearance plate. Stop sewing once again. lhe needle is in the fabric, and the presser fo t lifts. Remove the clearance plate. Con tinue sewing the hem. Stretch Hem l*IIh)cl,’ stittb to beiii stiL’tC/) /abric aiid /in’ bell loops. Select Stretch Medium and the Sewing Advisor selects a flatlock stitch. Fr )llo\\ other recommend ations given on the Interactive Designer Screen. R )ld a hem to the wrong side and si itch with liatlock stitch from the right side. Trim away excess fabric. se this technique for belt kxps I U I’. )O. 1-19 S(r1 /0 S?tI’ PBB (Perfectly Balanced Buttonhole) Woven medium The Sewing Advisor will select the best button 1 hole and stitch settings for your fabric. Fabric should he interfaced and/or stabilized where buttonholes are to he sewn. ‘iou can also select V( ur buttonhole directly from the Buttonhole Menu B (see page 2—12). B Buttonhoir C D flçE F 4 5 -6 2 3 fl Fabric: \\ )VCfl medium and stabilizer. Select: Woven medium fabric and I3utt( )nh( Ac. Use: Size 50 needle as recommended. Snap on the Sensor Buttonhole Foot. Plug the cord into the socket to the left under side in front of the F! Light (a) .A set button size pop-up appears. 1. Place your button in the lower right corner on the screen. Scroll the wheel on the Sensor Buttonhole Foot until the button is enclosed, The size can be set up to 50 mm. 2. Remove the button from the screen and ‘1 he window closes, and the set touch button size is shown in the button size icon. \Viih this ic )n it is possible to adjust the size v ith + and in 1 mm steps. Touch the button image of the icon to open up the size pop—up again. When a buttonhole is selected with the Sensor Buttonhole Foot plugged in. the button size (ha— logue OCflS up automatically. Before sewing. line up the white area on the side of the wheel with the white marking line on the foot. Sei IS( )1’ BlettoIIis)le I Hit ‘coch’et. Buttonhole .. 17mm — 4,,. e When sewing, your Designer SF automatically sews the buttonhole long enough to fit the selected button size. The buttonhole size needed \\ill vary with the thickness and style of your button, Always stitch a sample buttonh( Ac on scra fal )ric first. For wo en heavy and leather, the Sewing Ad isor selects buttonholes that should not he sewn with th Sensor Buttonhole Foot. Set the hutt( n size with + and NOTE: 1-20 I Place flibric edge here to place butThnhole 5 r’ (1 5 mm (‘c/ge. I I I I I I I I I I 1 I ___ Set tu Seii SewthePBB: Fold fabric in two and place stabilizer under— neath. c • Ia rk the hutt( )flh( )le placement on your fabri with v ur Pictoram Pen. Set the length of the buttonhole. (See previous page.) • Place hibric under Sensor Buttonhole Foot. The measurement wheel can be raised by lifting it. \Vhich makes it easier to place the fabric under the presser foot. or TSC the markings on the lelt toe of the Sens . ent edge Buttonhole Foot to position the carm Place the edoe of the garment at the middle mark to ha e X’ (I mm) in m the edge to the buttonhole. Step on the foot control. The Sensor Buttonhole Foot lowers automatically. A straight stitch is sewn away fr m V( u stabilizing the left buttonhole column. then the satin column is sewn toward you. This is repeated for the right column, The lartacks are automatic (see illus— tration 1). Keep the foot control depressed until and the Selective Thread Cutter cuts the threads d. the Sensor Buttonh )le Fo )t is raise ith )ut satin stitches NOTE: When sewing I )utt( )nholes w steps a dii or when using presser k) )t C. the sewing illustration 2. See lerent (there is no stnnght stitch step). [C I I jursa/iii stitch ihok’ hOot. ui l3nttoi S’uiiis nub the c/irectioii /flh/tu)ih(ilL’s cL’i(’Ii 0 stile/u’s 2. Sc’ii’nij directiuii /ur buttonholes ii ‘it/iou! satin (. /(R)t er pr’ss ui/h stitch Inu/ton/mies senui or sn/ui NOTE: ‘“ er\ narn )W w the tej) k)ll( ind C t fo rd P °° the standa 2-13. page on tions e buttonhol instruc It vol.: ire ‘e\\ ing buttonh )les in a ‘ 1-21 ‘?t to utton uicklv with 1 s and eves ( W bUttOnS. snaps. h( iok )ur l)esigner SE. bric: Woven medium. on the elect: \\bven medium and Button lowered w ing Advisor. The feed teeth are itomal ica Ily. plate to Jse: Size X() needle and the clearance ed. Snap ott reate a thread shank as recommend resser toot. ew: button under Place fabric, clearance plate and ton lined up the ankle with the holes in the but the s° ing s idi the swing of the needle. Check to be sure the needle of the needle using dle down will not hit the button. Bring the nee m into the hole of the I )tltt( Scu • Zigzag button stitches. in place with six to eight STOP to rejxat koi to tie off. Touch • louch the no’\t button. )t the clearance plate un( k i NOTE: Place the thin end ( cs. t se t lie the butt( n v hen sewing n light fabri place on Ilk’ in lold F thick end P r heavier fabrics. fabric ith transparent tape. mo s! ‘ idth of ,3.() is set tor NOTE: The rec )mmended large oat buttons. If von sew a tiny button or a very h v idi 11 stitc (+) the I ymtt n decrease 0-’) or increase es of ihe hol until the s’a ing of the needle sews in the hutton Of 5flU. .i 2 L: 4 _ L 4% C (tilil( (,Ariiwnt Utility Sewing — 5cUi? Menu A )oiir Desiiic’r SE has j8 li/i/ill’ stitchcjori’ozir !.auI1le)lt senilig. iiic’iidiiig and clarnmg 01? Stitch i]eiiii A. and select stitch. touch ed stitch. if iiieiuui 1. Jheii touch ouiI desir h length and stitc iieeded. ?ilah?e ad/ustnients in on and stitci itidth and chall,çk’ fbi-end tensi presser/hot pressu ire. 7h s’Iect a 11/i/it)’ Straight Stitch Fabric: Woven medium. Select: \V)ven medium ( H) in the Se’ in’ Advisor and straight stitch ( 1:2) or Seam in the Se ing Advisor (stitch A1:2 is selected Itonbitic liv). ‘iour I )esigner SE x ill automatically make the standard settings. The interactive Designer u screen will show von all o the ink )rmation y need to get the best result. Stretch Stitch Fabric: stretch light. Select: Stretch light ( D) in the Sewing Advisor ing and stretch stitch (AL f) or Seam in the Sew Advisor (stitch Al: t is selected aut )maticallv). make the ‘i ur I )esigner SE \vill aut >maticallv standard settings. l’he lnteracti e Designer Screen will sh( )W v )U all infc )rmati( n you need to get the best result. .Strnigl/ .1i1c!? 11:2. ¶t retch stitch A 1: i -I Gathering Fabric: W wen med iu in. Select: Woven medium (B) in the Sewing Advisor and gathering stitch A2:3. • Place a single thickness of fabric under the presser foot and stitch. • Stitch a sect )nd row next to the hrst. II I Ij II] • Pull l )th b( 1 bin threads to gather fabric. He careful not to pull them out. 11 2-2 I ii1it (;ariiieiit SL’ui!lg Twenty-nine Needle Positions I )esigner SE has twentvnine different n’dle p siti )fls )f the most accurate seaming and topsmching e”er. When sewing straight iitch or reinft)rced straight stitch, the needle positions can he adjusted in steps from 3:o O j +35 with the needle position button ns positio needle nt Take advantage of the differe to edge stitch and topstitch. Fabric: ‘ven medium. Select: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor, and stitch Al :2, \eedle stop up. ‘iOtir Use: Presser root A and size Ho needle as recommended. Sew: Fold fabric in two and place under the presser • loot. If you need to adjust the fabric, touch Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. Stitch with center needle position. • Touch on the needle position button to move the needle 1 + steps into the left needle position = Stitch Al: 1. — to (juicklv move needle to the • Touch right needle position = Stitch A 1:3. • louch needle position to center position. - to move needle back Each touch on the needle position button (— or +) corresponds to a ).2 mm adjustment of the needle position. To get the maximum feeding when edge stitching close to the edge, sew with left needle position (Al: 1) so that the fabric edge ft)llo\\ s tl ie inside right edge of the presser f )t I). w the first mark of the left edge of the presser kot A. lor topstitching. use prc’sser foot A \vhen sewing light fabrics and presser f )ot B f r other fabrics. Sna p on the )pti na I Edge Stitching 1 )( )t + 12 9 7- +) or Edge Joining I’o )t ith ( 12 9 (5-45) f )r t( )pstitching different needle ( )sit B )flS. l’hc flange guides the edge of the fabric. Snap on the opti( na I Left Edge 1( )pstitch F )( )t (+ 12 ‘S t2-i5) to stitch close to inNide edges such as patch pockets. far r L — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — ( !ilitt (;cii;n’izt SeuHlg Center Zipper Fabric: \Voven medium. Use: Size SO needle. ing Select: \c’oven medium and Seam on the Se\v ther Advisor. Sew the two fabrics right sides toge at ping along the 5 8 (15 mm) seam line, stop notch for the zipper placement. the Select: Baste on the Sewing Advisor and the continue to sew the remaining seam where . open zipper will be placed. Press the seam ed open press the to Place the zipper right side seam allowance, placing the zipper stop at the notch. Select: Stitch V+. Adjust stitch width to 5.5 or enough to clear 1)0th sides of your zipper to barrack baste zipper in place (1). The feed teeth c to are lowered automatically. Move the hibri hold er stitch a series of bartacks over the zipp to it in place. 2. -LI Select: Stitch Al: 1 for left needle position cally straight stitch. The feed teeth ratse automati wlwn you select tI’e new stitcl. Use: Zipper foot F so the needle is on the left foot side of the foot. There are two bars on the so you can snap on the foot to the right or left right of the needle). Place fabric under the foot side of side up with the zipper foot on the right the zipper (2). To adjust fabric, touch A—’ I Sew: Foot • Step on the foot control. The Sensor lowers automatically, q pivot the • Begin stitching across the bottom, er to ftibric and stitch the right side of the zipp the top. 4 4 of • To avoid fabric shifting, sew the left side on Snap the zipper in the same direction, foot F so the needle is on the right er zipp side of the foot. Touch A 1:3 for right needle position straight stitch. t the • Begin stitching across the bottom, pivo fabric and stitch the left side of the zipper top (3). sewing from the bottom to the • Remove bartacks and basting stitch. the stitching line, NOTE: lb adjust the position of tion adjust t h needle position, Touch needle posi center position. 10 fl( )V/ the nc’edle towards the — 2.5 1 1 I tj/j S (Irin.’Iif .Seuing S Reinforced Straight Stitch r The rein(orced straight stitch is stronge than h is stitc a regular straight stitch because the t stitch triple and elastic. The reintorced straigh ms sea for can be used for all heavy fabrics, for that are subject to c )nsiderable strain and topstitching in heavy fabrics. this air garment seams in stress areas with Rep stitch. ether Fabric: \Xbven heavy, fold right sides tog diagonally to create a bias edge, ing Select: Woven heavy (C) fabric in the Sew Advisor and stitch A[:8. as Use: Presser foot B and size 90 needle presser the er recommended. Place the fabric und To adlust fabric, touch A!, Sew: )t l( wers • Step Ofl toot control. the Sensor Fo automatically. e. • Stitch 5 8 ( 15 mm) from the bias fold edg Increase stitch length to 4.5. You • Touch Al of may use presser toot D and sew a row topstitching along the edge of the fold. I I It oicecl Incic Ise thc slit(h Ic ngth on thc rcint g str tight stitch tor 1mprcssnc topstitchin i I S :‘. • ‘Touch I a S S S a $ I a I I I I I 2-6 (li/it r (iu,ne;,t Suiiig Multiple ZigZag Stitches a zigzag ‘Ihe multiple zigzag stitches look like and “zig stitch with straight stitches in the e-step the zag” of the stitch. Stitch Al: 13, thre for light able suit zigzag, is up to mm v ide and mm wide and medium fabrics. Stitch A 1: 1 is a en and multiple zigzag. used tor loosely vov rcasting, heavy fabrics. Lse these stitches for ove . butting two edges together to join them shing. mending tears and other special fini Fabric: bven medium. Advisor Select: \V)ven medium in the Se\\ ing g. and select stitch A1:13, three-step zigza make the Your Designer SE will automatically igner standard settings. The Interactive Des tion von need Screen will show von all informa to get the best result. , presser Use: Presser foot A. or if overcasting ed. foot j. Size HO needle as recommend > U Stitch A 1: 1 . Sew: t. lo • Place the fabric under the presser too ! adjust the fabric, touch A t(x)t control. The Sensor Foot • Step on the edge lowers automatically. Sew to overcast the of fabric. • Touch br loosely Stitch Al: 1, a wide four-step zig zag. woven and heavy fabrics. .S’titch Al: 15. the serpentine stitch is used to Stitch Al: 1 ding and sew an overlapped seam and for men darning stretch fabrics. - - I 5 t S U Stitch .11: Ii. 2-7 i ti/it V Garment S’euinJ Bartacks Secure elastic ends, drapery pleats, belt loops. and pocket corners with the same look as ready to-wear. j Ii Fabric: \XoVen heavy. Select: Woven heavy, and stitch A1:32. Use: Presser foot B and size 90 needle as 1’’ recommended. Sew: • Place fabric under the presser toot. • To lower the presser foot, step on the toot control afld stitch. • Your l)esigner SF will stop automatically when the bartack is completed. NOTE: Increase stitch length br a l( )nger hartack. Manual bartack Decide the length of your bartack nianuallv with stitch A1:36. Sew: • Place fabric under the presser foot. and adjust the fabric if necessary. • Touch Step on the ft)ot control, the Sensor Foot h)wers automatically and stitch. Your I)esigner SE vilI sew a straight stitch until you touch ft. ‘iour l)esigner SE will then sew in reverse again. “iour L)esigner SE until you touch will then sew a zigzag, covering the straight to automatically tie stitches, until you touch off and cut the threads. Secure Belt Loops Select: \oven hea v, and stitch menu A, stitch I II 2:38. II Use: Presser foot 13 and size 90 needle as I rec )mrnended. -- Sew: • Fold in about 3,8 (10 mm) on the short ends. • Place the belt loop on the garment and under the presser foot. • Sew a bartack from the outer edge to the center of the loop, move the fabric and sew a new bartack. I - [ill/fr (,arnieni SL’Ul1l’ Darning and Mending Patching and Tears I )a ruing or mending a small hole or a tear betore it hec )IflCS larger can save a garment. Choose the finest thread in the closest color match possible. Select stitch A2:3-1. which is another type of mending stitch that will efficiently mend a tear. Fabric: \\o’en medium. Select: \\b en medium on the Sewing Ad\ isor. R )ke a small hole to mend. Select stitch A2:33. mending stitch. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recommended. =1 =1 Stitch over the tear to mend it. Begin at the top of the tear and sew to the edge of the fabric Sew: • Place fabric ii position under the presser loot. • louch AV and adjust fabric if necessary. Step on the foot c )ntrol. The Sensor E )ot lowers automatically. Start sewing above the hole and sew clown over it. and continue • Once over the hole, touch sewing. The sewing machine will sew back and forth across the hole I times to mend the hole closed. Reposition your labric. then step • Touch on the foot control to sew again. The stitch will now repeat the same size mending square in succession and the sewing machine will stop automatically when the stitch is completed. 29 [‘ti/il:)’ Garniit 5e’u’iiig Attach Elastic I The elastic, casing stitch is perfect for attaching elastic for gathering sleeves, skirts, night wear etc. Fabric: Woven medium and 3 mm wide elastic. Select: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor and stitch A1:21. Sew: • On the wrong side of the fabric, mark where your elastic should be attached. Always remember to sew from the wrong side of the fabric. • Put the elastic along the marked line and under your presser foot. Make sure that the elastic does not get caught in the seam while attaching. • After ou hax e attached the elastic, pull the ends of it to gather your project. Once you have the right Fit, sew a straight stitch across the ends to secure your elastic. I ‘ I I I I I I I I S I 2-10 I (ti/ui’ Stitch table — S?u’i,i Menu A 1-3 Straight stitch For all kinds of sewing on woven fabrics. 29 different needle positions. 4-6 Stretch stitch For seams on tricot and stretch fabrics. 7-9 Reinforced straight stitch For seams which are subject to considerable strain. Use to reinforce and topstitch sportswear and working clothes. 29 needle positions. 10-12 Zigzag For lace edging and sewing on bands. 3 Three-step zigzag For overcasting. mending. sewing on patches and elastics. 14 Serpentine stitch For mending and darning and elastic applications. 15 Fouistep zigzag, 9 mm For overcasting, mending, sewing on patches and elastics in loosely woven fabrics, 16 Seam Overcast stitch Seam and overcast in one step along the edge or trim later. For light stretch and non—stretch fabrics. 17 Stretch Seam Overcast Seam and overcast in one step along the edge or trim later. For medium and mediuln/ heavy stretch fabrics. 18 Double overlock Seam and overcast in one step ak)ng the edge or trim later. For heavy stretch fabrics. 19 Overlock stitch Seam and overcast in one step along the edge or trim later. For medium stretch fabrics. 20 Flatlock Decorative hems and overlapped seams, belts and hands. For medium/heavy stretch fabrics. 21 Elastic/Casing stitch For overlapped seams in tricot. To sew casing over narrow elastic. 22 Reinforced zigzag For joining fabric edge to edge or overlapping in leather. 23 Baste stitch F r joining two pieces of fabric with long stitch length and reduced thread tension. 24 Elastic blind hem Invisible hems in stretch medium and heavy fabrics. 25 Woven blind hem Blind hems in medium and heavy woven fabrics. 26 Shell rolled hem For edgings. Sev over the edge for light stretch fabric. Sew woven fabric on bias. 27-29 Satin stitch For appliqués, rounded edge. sewing on laces and ha mis. 30 Elastic stitch Sew over two rows of elastic thread for shirring. 3 I Bridging stitch For joining two pieces of fabric or lace with finished edges and for elastic shirring. 32 Bartack Reinthrce pockets, shirts openings. belt loops as well as at lower end of a zipper. 3 3-35 Darning stitches Darn and mend work clothes, jeans. tablecloths and linen towels. 36 Manual Bartack Reinforce pockets. shirts openings, belt loops as well as at lower end of a zipper. 37 Gathering stitch For all kinds of gathering in light and medium fabrics. 38 Belt Loop Stitch For securing belt loops. 2-Il I ll/ Buttonholes — (;arment SL’u’ing K a a a a a a a Menu B On your Designer SE, selectfrom 16 d/ferent buttonhole styles. There is one Jhr ci ‘cry type offrthric and c.arment. Because the Sensor Buttonhole Foot measures as it sews, eie’ I,iittnnhole ui/I he the same size. ‘1 he buttonhole 51)/es on your I)esigner SE are listed below: BI :1 Wide 13a rtack Buttonh)le for medium and heavy fabrics with extra cutting space. B1:2 Bartack Buttonhole for most fabric weights. B1:3 Round End Bartack Buttonhole for light weight fabrics. BI:I BI:3 BI:2 ‘j BI:4 j B1:4 Round End Buttonhole for blouses and children’s garments BI:8 81:5 Heavy Reinforced Buttonhole for utility and heavy fabrics. B1:7 Medium Reinforced l)ec )rative Buttonhole for medium wool fabrics. B1:8, 81:9 Heirloom Buttonhole for “hand look” on Fine and delicate fabrics. BI:IO BI:II B1:10 Keyhole Buttonhole with sguare end for tailored jackets. coats, etc. II1 81:11 Keyhole Buttonhole with tapered end for tailored garments. B1:12 Heavy l)uty buttonhole with reinforced bartacks. B1:13 Decorative Fashion Buttonhole for most fabric weights. 81:14 Straight Stitch Buttonhole for leather and suede. 81:15 Straight Stitch Buttonhole with extra cutting space f )f bound butt( )nh( iles. B1: 16 h r sewing buttons. Bl: 18 Teardrop eyelet for laces, embellishments. B1:19 Oval eyelet for laces, embellishments. 81:20 l)ecorative Fashion Buttonhole br most fabric weights. Read more about buttonholes on page 12O. 2I2 1 I I i I 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I i B1:6 Medium Reinforced Buttonhole for medium wool and Tvrolean jackets. 81:17 Round eyelet ft)r belts, laces. etc. 1 BI:17 BI:18 I ( ] i//fl ( irinc’i ii Sc’u 1 iig Corded Buttonhole (Stretch fabrics) I • Loop a piece of heavy thread or perle cotton )ver the linger at the hack of the Sensor Buttonhole 12001 or Presser Foot C. • Stitch a buttonhole. Do not hold back the c( )rd. he satin buttonhole columns ill stitch over the cord. I • Stop sewing before the last end of the buttonhole is sewn. Lift the cord oil the finger and pull out the slack. • Cross the cord in front of the needle and stitch the end of the buttonhole o er the cord. 4 • Thread cord ends into a large needle, pull to the wrong side and knot ends before cutting excess. I Step-by-Step Buttonhole q 4 • Select buttonhole and snap on presser foot C. • Lse the markings on the left toe of the buttonhole toot to position the garment edge. • 4 q Begin sewing buttonhole. The sewing machine will sew the left column in reverse. The buttonhole foot has guide lines to determine the buttonhole length. When the buttonhole is jour Designer SF the desired length. touch will bartack the end and stitch the right side. U . 4 4 4 4 4 • Sew to starting mark and touch fl to bartack and tie off. Keep the foot contro depressed until the sewing machine ties off and stops to cut threads. sewing. Touch to repeat buttonhole. The Touch buttonhole can also l)e saved in “Mv Stitches’. Read in the 1’ser’s Guide about how to save stitches in “My Stitches”. The inrirkiiigs on the left toe goes a 5’ 8” (1 5iiiiii) /JllltvIling e4e. 2-13 I )ilitv (;ce,’,)1;1t Seiii,i,i Buttonhole Density The density of the buttonhole is adjusted with the stitch length. Increase stitch length + to make stitch columns less dense. Decrease stitch length to make stitch columns more dense. I3oth columns will be adjusted. — Cutting Buttonholes Cut buttonhole open with the seam ripper. Place a straight pin across the end you are cutting toward to avoid cutting too far! Bound Buttonhole For all types of fabrics. Fabric: One piece of chino and one piece of cotton. Cut 2’ x 3” (O mm x 50 mm) for the hum )nhole. Select: Woven medium on Sewing Advisor. Buttonhole 131: 1. Use: Size SO needle and presser foot A as recommended. Sew: 1. 2. 3. 4. . 6. Place cotton piece and chino fabric right sides tcgether and stitch the buttonhole. Cut the buttonhole down the center to 14 (6 mm) from each end. Cut to the corners at each end to form a triangle as illustrated. 4 Press the end triangles and the sides away from the buttonhole. Pull the cotton through the buttonhole opening to the wrong side. Fold the cotton so the edges of the buttonhole are formed and meet at the center of the buttonhole opening forming a pleat at each end on the wrong side. 5 11’ From the right side, fold back the end of the buttonhole to expose a triangle. T. Touch straight stitch Ai:2. Set stitch length a to 1 and stitch across the base of each triangle, catching the pleat of the rectangle to secure it. ‘b. iopstitch the buttonhole from the right side in the ditch”. The wrong side of a bound buttonhole is finished when the garment facing or lining is slit and hand stitched to the wrong side of the opening. . 2-14 1 7 1- H f:h. K flu mui.
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