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Introduction

Welcome to the Robie Cat family of sailors. Thanks for joining us. By purchasing the

Robie 17, you are treating yourself to the ultimate in single hand sailing enjoyment.

Even if you have long experience with sailboats or if you have owned Robie Cats in the past, please read this manual thoroughly. It will give you easy, accurate instructions on assembling your new boat. We suggest reading through the manual completely before you begin assembly. Pay special attention to the boat and parts descriptions shown on the followmg pages.

If you are new to sailing, this manual will not teach you how to sail. There are many excellent courses and books available on the safe handling of small sailboats. Contact your

Robie dealer or local Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommendations on courses in your area.

They'll be happy to help. For your information, we have included a toll-free number on page

25 which will enable you to learn more about courses in your area.

Please remember to obey the most important rule of all when assembling your boat stay away from overhead power lines! Before starting to rig your boat, thoroughly examine the area for power lines and report any potentially hazardous power line that you see by writing to the reponsible utility company, send a copy to Robie Cat Bounty Program, P.O.

Box 1008, Oceanside, CA 92054 and sail elsewhere. Remember, CONTACT OF A MAST

WITR A POWER LINE COULD BE FATAL.

This is an essentially non-conducting composite tip which can help prevent electrocution and boat damage from mast/power line contact. Robie Cat worked many years to develop this new tip so that it would be as effective as possible. Still, nothing can pro'vide total protection at all times, so it's best to avoid wires. Be sure to read the "Maintenance" section to find out how to protect the tip's insulating ability.

By following the instructions, maintaining your new boat properly and observing safety rules, we're confident you'll receive many years of sailing enjoyment from the Hobie 17.

-1-

BAT

~

COMPTIP

HOSIE 17

Terminology

MAST TANG

ALUMINUM lOWER MAST

SHROUD

TRAPEZE LINE

ClE

OUT

MAl

Till

UPPER

OOWNHAUl

MAST BASE LE ADJUSTER

BOW lOWER

RUOOE

CASTIN

WARNING

Before starting assembly, be sure the area in which you plan to work is free from overhead power lines. Contact of a mast with a power line could be fatal.

Tool List

4. rubber mallet

You will need the following tools to complete assembly:

2. phillips head screwdriver

3. flathead screwdriver

5. standard pliers

7. bailing wire

8. anti-seizing lubricant

9. knife or razor blade

10. 7/16" socket wrench or

11. adjustable wrench

-2-

"

.

\

.

1. Rear Crossbar 10. Trampoline Lace Line

2. Right 17 ,Hull (Starboard) 11. Trampoline Corner Tie

3. Eye Straps (4)

4. Trampoline

Lines (4)

12. Wing Frames (2)

5. Front Crossbar

6. Left 17 Hull (Port)

7. Crossbar Bolts (4)

8. Anchor Bars (4)

9. Plastic Caps (4)

13. Wing Trampolines (2)

Wing Bar (2)

16. White Teflon Rudder

Pin Bearings (6)

17. Rudder Pins (2)

18. Tiller Crossbar w/Extension

19. Tiller Connector Kit (2)

15. Rudder/Tiller Assemblies (2) 20. Drain Plugs (2)

Red Sticker

=

Green Sticker

Port (left)

=

Stbd. (right)

21. Wire Set

22. Large Bell Shackle cncn

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-3-

23. Mast 31. "J & H" Trapeze Handles (2) 39. Double Block

24. Small Bell Shackle (1)

25. 10-Hole Stay Adjuster (4)

26. 1/2" 34. Battens (6)

27. White Shroud Adjuster

Covers (2)

35. Mast Rotation Line

36. Downhaul Single Block

28. Mast Step Pin and Rings

29. Trapeze Shock Cord

30. Trapeze Lines (2)

32. Rope Locks (2)

33. Mainsail w/Shackle

38. Twist Shackle

40. Downhaul Line

41. Triple Boom Block

42. Mainsheet Cleat/Triple Block

43. Mainsheet

44. Boom

45. Shackle w/Pins & Rings for

#41 & 42

46. Hull Wing Opening Caps (4)

-4-

HOBIE 17 ASSEMBLY MANUAL UPDATES

The following items have been changed or re-designed.

Section I Trampoline installation.

The trampoline has been changed from the original one or two piece to the three piece shown here.

Install as shown here.

1. Slide left and right halfs into front crossbar using slot in center of front crossbar. Slide trampolines aft along tracks in hulls. Fasten corners to eyestraps with shackles. Shackle connections are only used at front corners.

2. Fold rear section in two then feed from center slot in rear crossbar towards each hull.

I

0

CROSSBAR

0 ed as #1 (3 lace lines) with a bowline knot.

Follow number sequence and end at rear center area. Tighten and tie off with several half hitch knots.

NOTE: do not over-tighten as damage may be caused to grommets.

Section I X Boom

The gooseneck connection (boom to mast) has been changed from the original assembly.

Install as shown here.

1. The gooseneck fitting is installed in the mast base and held from vertical movement by the clevis pin that supports the downhaul block.

2. Bolt the "U" shaped stainless steel plate

(vertex) to the boom pin.

3. the "U" shaped stainless steel plate(vertex) is pinned to the gooseneck by a clevis pin passed through vertically.

MAST

MAST BASE

0

.

0

Assembly Instructions

I. Frame and Vinyl Trampoline

Assembly Instructions

(See page 8 for mesh trampoline instructions.)

Note

All directions referring to "right," "left,"

"front" and "back" are based on looking from the stern toward the bow.

1. First, with the trampoline track facing forward, slip the rear crossbar (part no. 1) onto the right hull (part no. 2). The factoryinstalled support castings slide into the crossbar. Be sure the crossbar fits entirely over the support casting. It may be necessary to tap the crossbar onto the hull with the rubber mallet. See Figure 1.

Fig. 2

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Fig. 3

Note

Fig. 1 eyestrap is attached to its crossbar and positioned as shown in Figure 3, tighten the eyestrap.

2. Slide one of the four eyestraps (part no. 3) 6. Attach the front crossbar (part no. 5) onto on the crossbar by slipping the square nut the left hull (part no. 6) over the crossbar inside the track. The eyestrap should be positioned as close to the hull as possible, without touching it. step 5.

7. Slide the left corner of the trampoline into the right side of the front crossbar from right to left. The flap on the trampoline

The trampoline (part no. 4) is split diagonally into two halves. The right, rear section of the it. The left, forward section has a 4-inch flap

3. Now, insert the rear bolt rope of the vinyl trampoline (item 5) into the crossbar track and slide it across from left to right.

4. Now slide the right trampoline bolt rope through the track on the right hull. Refer to

Figure 2 for completed procedure.

5. Slide the second eyestrap (part no. 3) onto the crossbar so one eyestrap is on each side of the trampoline on the crossbar. As each should be on the top on this side. Now slide on the last eyestrap (part no. 3).

8. Now slide the small bolt rope down the siderail of the left hull. Check to make sure there is an eyestrap on all four corners of the trampoline.

9. You can now join the left hull, the forward crossbar, and the trampoline assembly to the right hull rear crossbar and trampoline.

First, attach the left side of the rear crossbar and the left hull, making sure the crossbar is completely over the support casting. Next, slip the front, right receiver into the right side of the front crossbar so each corner of each crossbar fits snugly over the castings as shown in Figure 1.

-5-

CAUTION Note

Before completing step 1.0, check the threads Once the boat has been sailed a few times it of the crossbar bolts (part no. 7) by hand screw- takes on "normal set." In other words, the ing them into each anchor bar (part no. 8). If crossbar and hulls will set and need retightenthe bolt will not thread easily, use a tap and die ing. This setting also occurs after trailering to clear the threads. Use an anti-seizing lubri- any long distance. This tightening procedure cant such as Never-SeeZi!J should be performed periodically.

threading and galling.

10. Now that the boat is framed, you can insert the crossbar bolts (part no. 7) into each of the access holes on the inboard side of each crossbar. The access holes can be seen in the center of the crossbar in Figure 3. To help align the bolt and anchor bar under

11. Once each bolt is tightened securely, insert the four plastic caps (part no. 9) into each existing access hole in the crossbars. If the track on the rear crossbar intereferes with the covers, slice a small piece of the cap off using a razor blade. (See Figure 6.) the rail, use one of the other bolts to hold the anchor bar in position while starting to thread the assembly from the top using the

1/4-inch alIen wrench. (See Figures 4 and 5 for reference.)

"

.

Fig. 6

12. Lace the trampoline using the supplied length of 1/4-inch lace line (part no. 10).

Thread the line by alternating trampoline grommets on each side. Tie one end off to tween the grommets from each end, then secure the line once again at each end as in

Fig. 7.

Fig. 5

-6-

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Fig. 7

13. Use the supplied trampoline corner tie lines

(3/16 x 12" part no. 11) to tighten each corner of the trampoline to its corresponding eyestrap. Tighten snugly (see Figure 8).

Close the flap and check the fit. This completes the vinyl trampoline installation.

Fig. 8

-7-

II. Frame and Mesh TrampolineNote

Note Placing the bows in a slightly toed-in position will make sliding the trampoline easier.

The one-piece mesh trampoline installs with the lacing grommets on the side closest to the rear crossbar. The side with grommets nearest the crossbar, is the rear portion of the trampo- line.

All directions referring to "right," "left,"

"front" and "back" are based on looking from the stems toward the bows.

1. First, with the trampoline track facing forward, slip the rear crossbar (part no. 1)

8. Slide the front crossbeam onto the trampoline bolt rope suspended between the hulls.

9. Slide each front eyestrap on either side of the front crossbar so one is at each end.

10. Spread the bows apart slightly and insert one side of the crossbar over its receiver.

Then slip on the other side. Use the rubber mallet to snug each side onto its receiver.

11. Attach the crossbar bolts as described in steps 10 and 11 of section I.

onto the right hull (part no. 2). The factoryinstalled support castings slide into the crossbar. Be sure the crossbar fits entirely over the support casting. It may be neces-

Note sary to tap the crossbar onto the hull with the rubber mallet. See Figure 1.

Once the boat has been sailed a few times it takes on "normal set." In other words, the

2. Slide one of the four eyestraps (part no. 3) crossbar and hulls will set and need retightenon the crossbar by slipping the square nut ing. This setting also occurs after trailering inside the track. The eyestrap should be any long distance. This tightening procedure positioned as close to the hull as possible should be performed periodically.

without touching it.

3. Slide the mesh trampoline (part no. 4), with the grommets aft, into and across the rear crossbar (part no. 1).

12. Secure the trampoline comers as in step 13, section I.

4. Slide the second eyestrap (part no. 3) into position so there is one at each comer of the trampoline. Tighten the eyestraps.

5. Slip the left side of the rear crossbar onto the left hull. You may need to use the rubber mallet to tap the assembly snug.

This completes assembly of mesh trampolines.

CAUTION

Before completing step 5, check the threads of the crossbar bolts by hand screwing them into each anchor bar by hand. If the bolt will not thread easily, use a tap and die to clear the threads. Use an anti-seizing lubricant such as galling.

6. Drop in each of the rear crossbar bolts into each side of the crossbar. DO NOT attach the anchor bars (part nos. 7 and 8).

7. Slide both sides of the trampoline up both siderail grooves simultaneously.

-8-

III. Vinyl and Mesh Wing

Trampolines

Both

and vinyl wing trampolines

ble in the same way.

1. Lay one wing frame (part no. 12) alongside each hull as if they were being inserted into the hulls to make it easier to identify each side. The steeply angled end of each wing should be facing toward the sterns.

2. Lay the wing trampoline (part no. 13) beside each wing frame to verify the correct side as in Fig. 9.

3. Slide the wing trampolines onto the front end of the wing frame. Be sure to slide all three sections onto the frame.

Fig. 10

Fig. 9

Fig. 11

4. Once the wing tramp is fitted over the wing frame, slide the wing frame compression bar (part no. 14) through the trampoline opening as in Fig. 12. Attach the opposite end over the casting.

Note

The wing sleeve will only fit when you start installing it from the front end of the wing frame. Look closely at the frame and you'll notice one end has a casting which extends further from the frame. The sleeve of the trampoline will not slide over this casting. (See Figure 10.) Slide the sleeve on from the side shown in Figure 11.

-9-

Fig. 12

5. The wing now must be sprung enough to allow the compression bar to slip over the opposite casting. Use your foot to spread the wing apart slightly. Slip the compression bar over the casting and slowly release

I

tension. Repeat this step on the other wing.

(See Fig. 13.)

Fig. 13

6. Now set the wings aside while completing the rest of the assembly.

This completes the wing frame and trampoline assembly.

-10-

IV. Rudder and Tiller Crossbar

Assemblies

Note

The rudder assemblies (part no. 15) are marked with red and green tags. Red tags stand for left side assembly while green stands for right side. To help make assembly easier, place all items marked with a red tag behind the left stern and green-tagged items behind the right.

Do not mix differently tagged items. The fol- lowing steps are identical for both assemblies.

assembly.

4. Attach the left end of the tiller crossbar

(part no. 18 marked with a red tag) to the left rudder arm using one of the tiller connecting assemblies (part no. 19) by inserting the connector bolt through the tiller crossbar to the tiller arm.

5. Place the flat washer over the threads of the bolt followed by the delrin half-round washer. Then place the crossbar arm on top of the white delrin washer located between the connector arm and the tiller arm. Refer to Fig. 15.

Note

The rudder castings are installed with three small, white teflon bearings (part no. 16) which are placed in the casting where the rudder pin slides through the casting. These bearings fit between the rudder pin and the casting with one on the top of the bottom casting and two in the upper casting.

1. Grasp one of the rudder pins (part no. 17) so the end with the small hole and cotter pin faces up. Remove the cotter pin. Slide it through both the lower rudder casting bearings and the gudgeo~ as. well as the mserted: the small hole m the pm should app~ar Just above the top of. the ru~der cast~ng. Be sure the small whIte bearIngs are m place.

2. Insert the supplied cotter pin into the rudder pin hole and bend the cotter pin to prevent rudder pin from backing out of the casting: Refer to Fig. 14.

See Fig. 16.

F.

Ig.

15 F.

Ig.

6. Then place the opposite white delrin washer over the bolt threads followed by the washer and spring. Secure the assembly with the

Nylock nut. Tighten the nut to prevent the assembly from vibrating or backing out.

CAUTION

Be sure the nut is threaded past the nylon portion of the bottom of the nut by one complete thread as illustrated in Fig. 17.

16

Fig. 14

-11-

Fig. 17

7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 on the other side of the tiller crossbar.

This concludes assembly of the rudders and tiller crossbar.

-12-

V. Drain Plugs

Both plugs (part no. 20) are the most often forgotten item during rigging, but among the most important. Even championship sailors forget to put thejr drain plugs in once in a while, but you can't go very far with them out.

Be sure to check your drain plugs before you leave shore. Be sure you have gaskets in place and no sand, or other debris which can permit leakage, around the opening. Drain plug location is next to the lower gudgeon as shown in

Figure 14.

VI. Mast Rigging, Raising and

Lowering

r""""""""""""~ WARNING r""""""""""1 Fig. 18 Fig. 19

I

I ~efore starting assembl.y,

I 5. Attach each of the two ten-hole stay adjus..

be sure the area in ~ ters (part no. 25) to the bow anchor pi~s.

~ whIch ~ou plan to work IS free fro.m overhead I Pin the stay adjuster to the anchor pInS

~ power lInes. Contact of a mast wIth a power I

I line could be fatal.

"..."

1 with the single open end down. For referI

ence, see Figure 28. . .

Note

. ..

The WIre set for the Hoble 17 consIsts of the following: Trapeze wires; Shrouds; Forestay;

Bridles. The trapeze ':lires and the .l~ft and right shrouds are unIversal. In addItIon, all three forestay/bridle wires are the same length. at the chain plate anchor pin. Pin the stay adjusters to the anchor pins with the single open end down. For reference, see Figure

21.

7. The main halyard (70' x 3/16" line) should be threaded through the top of the mast and back down through the middle sheave

1. Uncoil the supplied wire set (part no. 21) and. lay the wires on the groun.d in the fol-

loWIng pattern from left to rIght: a. left

trapeze wire, b.. left s~roud wi~e, c. one of at the base of the mast. If it is not, thread it now. Check the halyard shackle and ring to be sure they are attached to the end exiting

the mast head.

8. Check the main halyard shackle and ring.

the forestay/brldle WIres, d. rIght shroud wire, e. right trapeze wire.

2. Slide the wir~s onto the large bell shackle

(part no. 22) m the same pattern as they were laid out in step 1. Then attach the

Make sure the halyard is securely tied with a halyard knot as described. (See "Knots" on page 17.) Be sure the halyard ring has a twist shackle attached to it.

shackle to the mast tang (part no. 23). Be sure the trapeze wires are attached so the handle end is not the end closest to the

Note tang. Refer to Fig. 18. Make sure the knot is as small as possible so

3. Secure the shackle pin to the shackle with the ring will be able to clear the halyard hook bailing wire. Tie the shackle to the pin, to when fully hoisted as seen in Fig. 20. The knot prevent the pin from backing out. shown is much larger than that described on

4. Use the small bell shackle (part no. 24) to page 17. Use the halyard knot.

attach the two bridles to the forestay.

Securely tighten the shackle with pliers

(see Fig. 19).

9. Tie a figure-eight knot (see "Knots" on page 17) at the bare end of the halyard.

-13-

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Before raising the mast, be sure the area is

I

.

free from overhead power lines. Contact of a

I

I

mast with a power line could be fatal.

I

,

~

15. Locate the mast step pin (part no. 28) from the mast base or rig kit.

16. Rotate the mast so the arrows are aligned and slip the mast base over the mast step ball. Then insert the step pin. Secure the pin in place by inserting the ring through the hole in the end of the pin. (See Fig. 22 ring not secure.)

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Fig. 20

~l

Fig. 21

CAUTION

Be sure the mast tip is supported by a rear mast support, a box, a ladder or a friend so its weight does not lay on the tiller crossbar or directly on the boat during the following procedure.

Fig. 22

10. Position the mast so the mast tip points 17. To raise the mast alone, attach the shackle toward the sterns and the mast base is next to the mast step ball on the forward end of the main halyard to the right bow's ten-hole adjuster (Fig. 27), being certain it crossbar so the yellow arrows are aligned,

Check both shroud wires to be sure they passes over both the left and right shrouds, trapeze wires and the forestay.

are not fouled or wrapped around the mast.

11. Now slip the white shroud covers (part no.

27), thimble end first, over each shroud CAUTION cover through the smallest opening in the end of the cover. The first time you try to raise the mast, have

12. Attach both left and right shrouds to the the help of two friends available. Also check the ten-hole stay adjusters on corresponding gooseneck sides of the boat. Place each shroud wire in angle forward or away from the top of the the st.ay adjuster and insert the clevis pin mast. !f .it is, tilt or ti,e it to the rotation arm to

from the top of each stay adjuster. (See ing raising.

'

Figure 21.)

13. Clear each trapeze wire so they are not

fouled around the opposite shroud or the

forestay.

14. Check the forestay to be certain it is not.

~

I

Before raising the mast, be sure the area is I

I fouled around the shrouds during the mast. free from overhead power lines. Contact of a I raising. Be sure it remains clear. I I mast with a power line could be fatal. '

1.

-14-

18. Step onto the trampoline and place your foot on the rear crossbar.

19. Keeping all the weight on that foot, lift the mast being sure to keep it rotated so the

yellow arrows are aligned. Refer to Fig. 23.

I

.

.

20. S~I~g your arms over your head .while shIftIng your body under the mast. (FIg. 24)

Fig. 26 with one hand to stabilize the mast once it is completely up, while you perform the next step with the other hand..

22. Take up the slack in the main halyard (Fig.

ever is most comfortable for you. Tie it very securely with a double or triple hitch

(see "Knots" on page 17). Remember, the knot you tie here will have to support the total weight of the mast once you release forward pressure. Due to the distance and characteristics of the line, try to pull some stretch into it.

t-

Fig. 24

21. Push the mast up and over your head, then walk it forward grasping hand-over-hand as you go. (Figs. 25, 26) If you are raising the mast alone, maintain forward pressure

Ig.

Fig. 27

23. When you're certain the halyard is secure, walk forward, clear the bridles of any wraps and attach the cleared bridle to the ten-hole adjuster you installed during step

6 of chapter VI. Insert the clevis pin and

<II

" ring (part no. 26), using the fourth hole from the top. (Fig. 28) .

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"

Fig. 28

24. Now slowly release the main halyard. Let about 2 feet of the halyard line run through the sheave and tie the rest securely to the mast rotation bar or the mast base as in step 23 of this chapter. The angle of the mast will shift from left to right as the load is shifted from the main halyard to the side bridle wire.

25. Locate the other bridle wire. Clear the bridle of any wraps and attach the cleared bridle to the right ten-hole adjuster you installed during step 6 of this chapter VI.

Insert the clevis pin and ring (part no. 26), using the fourth hole from the top.

26. Release the twist shackle endot1temain halyard from the right ten-hole adjuster.

27. Secure the shackled end of the main halyard to the boat to prevent it from slipping to the top of the mast accidentally.

-16-

VII.

Trapeze Wires

1. Lead the trapeze shock cord (part no. 29) through the grommet on the forward outboard side of the trampoline, then under the trampoline and through the opposite grommet.

2. Clear the trapeze handles so they lead to the outside of the shrouds. Then tie the 3foot length of quarter-inch line (part no. 30) to the dogbone or the J and H handle

(optional) with a bowline knot. After the line is led through the thimble on the end of the trapeze wire, attach the rope lock

(part no. 32). Now tie the end of the line to the shock cord with another bowline knot.

(The complete assembly is shown in Fig.

29.)

-17-

Fig. 29

~ r

VIII. Sail and Battens

1. Spread the sail (part no. 33) out flat on the ground and lay each batten (part no. 34) over the correct batten pocket.

shackle tightly. Feed the sail luff through

the sail feeder on the mast (Figure

31). Use

the halyard to gradually pull the sail up while guiding the luff into the feeder. If the sail binds at the feeder, back it down a bit, then continue pulling it up.

CAUTION

It's important that the sail be perfectly flat on the ground. A wrinkled sail could lead to a tear in the sail fabric when the battens are pushed into their pockets.

Note

When battens are laid over the correct pocket, two to three inches of the batten end should be laying over the outer edge of the sail.

2. Start at the top of the sail and insert each batten into its pocket being sure that the end of the batten with the flat end cap slips in first.

3. Tie each batten snugly with the batten ties before shipping.) Battens are at the correct tightness when the batten has removed the wrinkles from the pocket. Proper tension will vary with wind conditions.

'I

,

.

6. When the sail nears the halyard hook at the top of the mast, gently pull the sail up and listen for a slight "click" as the ring passes the small hook. (See Fig. 32) Then rotate the mast to the right by pushing on the mast rotation arm at the mast base.

Then release the halyard. When you think it has locked, pull down on the bottom of the sail to be certain.

Note

If you raise the sail too quickly or pull too hard, you will slide the hook past the lock. The ring will then slide back down past the lock assembly. Use a gentle touch when nearing the lock assembly and listen for the click. When

Fig. 30 disengaging the ring, pull the halyard so the

4. Point your Hobie 17 into the wind. This hook passes th~ lock, thus allowing the arm to allows you to pull up the sail easily and close and the rIng to pass the hook.

prevents the boat from sailing away.

5. Check the halyard to be sure it is not wrapped around the mast or shrouds. Twisting the main halyard approximately six times in a clockwise direction may facilitate halyard locking. Then attach the halyard to the top of the sail and secure the

-18-

Downhaul Line Rigged

Fig. 32

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FIg. 32.1

-19-

'

IX. Boom

1. Hold the boom (part no. 44) with the slot and the two cleats facing up and slip it onto with the clevis pin and ring. (Fig. 33)

.

FIg. 33

2. Attach the outhaul (secured to the cleat underneath the boom) to the sail by remov- ing the pin from the outhaul shackle and attaching the shackle to the third inboard hole in the plate on the sail. (Newer models have only three holes. See Figure 34.)

Fig. 35

NOTE: Figure shows Rotation and Downhau/ Rigged.

4. Now turn to the downhaul. First, attach the small single block (part no. 36) and small shackle using the clevis pin and ring

(part no. 37). Place the clevis pin through one of the two holes on the top of the mast base casting, attach the block and shackle through the pin, then push the pin through

~he second .hole in the base casting. Now

Insert the rIng to secure the pin.

5. Use the twist shackle to attach the double block (part no. 39) to the grommet at the bottom of the sail.

6. Use a halyard knot (see "Knots" page 17) to tie the downhaul line (part no. 40) (7' x

3/16" line) to the pin or bolt in the mast base. Then thread the line up to and through the double block, down to the small sheave in the mast base casting opposite from the bolt. Then thread the line back up to the double block and down to the small single block you attached in Step

4. Then take the line through the cleat just behind the mast rotation cleat. Refer to

Figure 35 for the complete assembly. Once the line is through the cleat, tie a figureeight knot in the end of the line.

Fig. 34

3. Use a bowline knot to tie the mast rotation line (part no. 35) (3' x 3/16" line) to the boom cleat closest to the mast. Then lead the line through the mast rotation arm and back through the cleat as shown in Figure

35. Once the line is through the cleat, tie a figure-eight knot in the end of the line.

-20-

-

X. Mainsheet and Traveller

1. Turn to the mainsheet package. First, at- tach the triple block (part no. 41) to the bale on the boom using the supplied shackle, clevis pin and ring. crossbar using the other supplied shackle, clevis pin and ring.

3. Lead the mainsheet (part no. 43) (42' x

7/16" line) from the cleat on the triple block, through the padeye, the cleat and the center sheave (part no. 42). Then take the line up to the ouside sheave on the boom block (part no. 41), down through the outside sheave on the same side on the lower blocks and up through the center sheave on the top blocks. Continue stringing the end of the mainsheet down through the last down through the small padeye on the backside of the cleat on the lower blocks and then secure the end of the line with a figure-eight knot. For the complete assem-

bly, refer to Fig.

36.

the small padeye on the back side of the rear crossbar and tie a figure-eight knot to secure the line. Refer ~o Figures 36 and 37 for the completed mamsheet system. Re-

~em.ber that the system features a crossed lIne m the purchase.

'r"

""c'.

.

1:

,I'.:

..

Fig. 36

4. Now rig the traveller line by using the opposite end of the mainsheet from the one you just tied off in step 3. Lead this end through the swivel cleat attached to the rear crossbar, then the bullseye and finally through the traveller car which slides on the rear crossbar. Take the end through

-21-

!

i

XI. Installing the Wings

Now that the entire boat is rigged, you're ready to insert the wings for sailing. We've saved the wings for last to prevent you from constantly having to step around them while you performed the other rigging chores. of the wings as in Figure 29.

2. ~o insert t~e wings, simply work the insertIon tub~s Into the hull.sockets an .inc~ or so at a time. Push one sIde of the WIng Into the tube, then the other and continue

.alternating until both sides are completely

Inserted.

CAUTION

Note

It is very important that the wings be completely inserted when sailing or whenever any ~f the wings cannot be easily inserted using load is applied to them. Failure to completely thIS syste~, check t~e.end caps for debris (such insert the wings will result in hull and/or wing as sand), Improper fItting or metal burrs.

damage. You have inserted the wings completely when the band of tape on the outboard side of each insertion tube aligns with the top CAUTION of the boat deck. For correct distances, please check drawing below. Be sure to cover the hull wing openings with the four white caps after removing the wings.

This can be especially important when freezing conditions exist. If any water is allowed into the sockets and then freezes, hull damage could result. When storing the boat for extended periods, use tape and/or silicone to seal the holes more effectively. Maximum load capacity on the wing is 350 lb.

TAPE LOCATION FOR WINGS

,.,~- USE TAPE ~

OOTTa. OUT.

SOCKCTS.

LCGS

II

II

~

~ file down until flush with tube.

1"Widetape

(j

11" AFT

3

"

:-

{

f

""",j

14 Y4 FWD. /

II extends past cap. file

WING CAP INSTAllATION s~arp corners flush with cap.

-22-

XII. Centerboards

.

~he centerboard syst~m (Pate~t Pendmg),

';Vhlch has ~lready be~n mstalled m each hull,

IS a revolutIonary desIgn made easy to operate.

The centerboards are spring loaded for ease of adjustment. Note the small handle exiting the deck from atop the centerboard well. The board is held in the fully "up" position by the figure- eight knot in the line. It may be desirable to install a small stainless steel washer between the top figure-eight knot and the centerboard handle. When the handle is lifted slightly and moved forward, the tension is released and the board is free to drop into the fully extended kn.°t to make fo! a seven-inch extension. To raIse the board, Just pull upon the handle and slide the line into the cleat just below the last figure-eight knot. The removable spring is shown with the board in Figure 38. To remove

, position.

Most sailors prefer to place several knots at different locations along the line to allow for centerboard adjustment. Several adjustment knots can be placed in the line at one time to

.

FIg. 38 permit the boards to extend to a variety of the board, untie the knots that exit thru the depths. When the board is fully extended deck and slowly release.

it should reach 14 inches as measured The boards then can be removed by unhookfrom the bottom of the hull to the tip of ing them from the bar in the board well. The the board. Most sailors like at least one other spring can be removed by itself once the board is lowered out of the well approximately 16 inches.

CENTERBOARD

ILowered position)

-23-

X III. T

r a i I e r in g

In addition to following all the insructions included with your trailer and obeying the rele- vant state laws concerning trailering boats, several safety tips should be included in your normal routine to assure the safe passage of your Hobie 17.

r""""""""""'~ W ARNIN

I

I

NEVER trailer your Hobie 17 so that the plastic

I

~

I

I

luff track of the Comptip'M

I

touch the rear crossbar or mast support. Con-

I

I

tact of the track with either will result in dam-

I

I

I

age to the luff track. For more on the Comptip'M

I

I

mast, see the maintenance instructions which

I

I follow. I

1. Use an extra length of line to tie the cen- ~ ~ terboard control lines back to the rear crossbar to prevent the line from slipping CAUTION and allowing the centerboards to fall onto the trailer or roadway. DO NOT USE THE WINCH LINE FROM

2. If the rudder system has not been removed YOUR TRAILER TO TIE THE MAST YOKE, for trailering, be sure to tie the tiller cross- IF SO EQUIPPED.

bar down to the rear crossbar after the rudders have been kicked up to prevent the rudders from accidentally lowering during travel. Failure to tie the tiller crossbar down could result in rudder damage.

3. Remove each wing from its socket and insert each one into the opposite side of the boat from normal sailing. This will allow the wings to remain in a straight-up position to reduce the beam of the boat to a lawful trailering width (Figure 39).

Fig. 39

4. Before starting on your way with the boat on the trailer, make sure that the boat is securely strapped/tied down. Make sure that the mast is tied down securely at the fore and aft locations, preventing the mast becoming loose during transport.

-24-

XIV. Maintenance

Mast

(U.S. Pat. No. 4,597,346)

C. Appearance

It's very easy to keep your new Robie 17 fresh-looking. Just follow these minor steps.

To be sure your mast is providing maximum protection, it has to be periodically maintained and examined. The following simple steps should be undertaken after each sail.

1. Because surface contamination can allow fiberglass tip should be carefully and thor- oughly cleaned with fresh water after each use. In the event fresh water will not remove surface film or other contamina- tion, use soap and water only. DO NOT any type of solvent. Acetone or other sol- vents will damage the luff track.

2. Do not leave the mast tip in direct sunlight for extended periods. Cover the tip when- ever it is not in use so ultraviolet rays will not degrade the surface.

3. Always trailer the luff track facing up. Do not allow mast tie-downs to touch the luff track. Use a minimum of 1-1/2 inches of soft padding around the mast tip and place t~e paddi~g between the luff track and any tIe-down h~es.

4. When storIng the mast, be sure the luff track is facing up. DO NOT apply any

1. After each sail, especially a salt-water sail, thoroughly rinse your boat with fresh, clean water to remove salt, grime or other foreign material. This will help prevent your metal parts from corroding.

2. When not using your boat, keep the trampoline covered to protect it from the damaging rays of the sun. Remove the trampoline when storing your boat for the winter and keep it indoors.

3. Carefully inspect all metal parts, fittings and wires for signs of stress and wear as you rig your boat before each sail. If a wire looks frayed or corroded, have it replaced.

4. After a high-speed capsize or a pounding in the surf, completely examine your boat for any signs of stress. Look at the crossbar to hull area, the rudder system, etc.

5. When storing your boat for the winter, cover it with an opaque sheet of plastic.

Form the plastic into an A-frame. By tenting your boat, you will prevent snow, leaves and other debris from accumulating on the hulls. Be sure no water lies in the hulls or the wing sockets. Freezing water pressure to the luff track during storage.

IS not.a total guarantee against injury or death m the event of a mast/powerline con- in those areas could cause hull damage.

6. Regular cleaning, waxing and polishing will keep your boat looking good for years to come.

. tact. If the surface or luff groove is contaminated with moisture, salt, dirt or other foreign matter; or, if the mast touches a line carrying extremely high voltage, an electrical injury could still occur. Additionally, the protection is, obviously, confined to the tip area only. A contact of the alumi- num portion of the mast, shrouds or fore-

..

For more mformat~on a~out boating or availstay is still extremely dangerous. The only able classes ~nd semm~rs m y~ur area, call the sure protection for any sailor on any boat is toll-free boatIn.g educatIon hothne a! 1-800-336a complete avoidance of electrical power- ~OAT. Or, wrIte to your state boatIng authorlines. Ity, local power squadron, or the U.S. Coast

.

19 enmg

Guard, Office of Boating, Public and Consumer

Affairs, Washington, D.C. 20593

.

Once the boat has been sailed a few times it takes on "normal set." In other words, the

crossbar and hulls will set and need retighten- ing. This setting also occurs after trailering any long distance. This tightening procedure should be performed periodically.

-25-

REMEMBER

Send in your warranty card.

I

KNOTS TO USE

1.

~

2. /~

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FINISH WITH

A HALF HITCH

[~/

FI

CLEATING OFF A LINE

FIGURES

KNOT AT END

OF LINE

BASIC SAILING

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WIND

(QU'I'

CLoSE

~~ AREA

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WIND

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-26-

.

Remember

Watch for overhead wires whenever you are sailing, launching, or trailering with the mast up. The mast sticks up there a long way and shock or death could result if it comes in contact with overhead wires. So look up when moving the boat around or even stePPing the mast, and give any wires a wide berth.

.~~

4~lliilllll.-~'~IIIIIII;;~IIIII;~:;::

P.O. Box 1008

AlID'Company

Oceanside, California 92054

619/758-9100

Part No. 50450001

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