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BERNINA 330 | 350 PE | 380
Introduction 1
Dear Bernina Customer,
Congratulations!
You’ve decided on BERNINA, a reliable choice that will delight you for years to come.
For over 100 years, our family has placed the highest value on satisfied customers. For myself, it is a matter of personal pride to offer you Swiss precision at the height of perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and a comprehensive customer service.
The BERNINA 330, 350 and 380 are primarily aimed at the occasional sewer who puts great stock in design and customer benefit. These sewing computers are very ergonomically built and therefore even easier to operate, to help you, our esteemed customers, on your journey to even greater sewing pleasure and perfect results.
Enjoy creative sewing with BERNINA:
Find out about our varied range of accessory and let yourself be inspired by new sewing projects at www.bernina.com.
And don’t forget to make use of service and maintenance offers from our highly trained
BERNINA dealers.
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner
BERNINA International AG
CH-8266 Steckborn www.bernina.com
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
2 Safety Instructions
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.
When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.
DANGER!
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
1. The sewing computer should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. LED radiation. Do not view directly with optical instruments. LED class 1M
WARNING!
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:
1. Use the sewing computer only for purposes as described in this manual. Use only attachments/accessory recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
2. Do not allow the sewing computer to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing computer is used by or near children and infirm persons. This sewing computer is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing computer by a person responsible for their safety. Children must be kept under supervision to ensure that they do not play with the sewing computer.
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3. Never operate this sewing computer if:
█ it has a damaged cord or plug
█
█ it is not working properly it has been dropped or damaged
█ it has fallen into water
Take the sewing computer to the nearest authorized BERNINA dealer for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing computer with any air vents blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer free from lint, dust and/or fabric bits.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
Special care is required in the needle area of the sewing computer.
6. Never drop or insert any objects into any opening on the sewing computer.
7. Do not use the sewing computer outdoors.
8. Do not operate the sewing computer where aerosol products (spray) or oxygen is being administered.
9. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching.
This may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
10. Do not use bent needles.
11. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The wrong stitch plate can cause needle breakage.
12. To disconnect, turn power switch to «0» (off), then remove the plug from the outlet. Do not unplug by pulling the cord, instead grasp the plug to pull it from the outlet.
13. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as changing the needle or the presser foot, etc.
14. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet when carrying out cleaning or maintenance work or any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual.
15. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation (except USA and Canada).
Use only genuine replacement parts. Please note the advice on the servicing of doubleinsulated products.
Safety Instructions 3
SERVICING DOUBLE
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product nor should a means for grounded be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to the original parts in the product.
A double insulated product is marked with the words: «Double-Insulation» or «double-insulated».
The symbol may also be marked on the product.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
Please find the latest version of your instruction manual at www.bernina.com
Environmental Protection
BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing.
DISCLAIMER
No liability will be assumed for any possible damage which arises from misuse of this sewing computer.
At end of life please dispose this product in an environmentally responsible way according to the national directive. Do not throw away this product with your
household waste. In case of doubt,
please contact your dealer.
This sewing computer is intended for household use only.
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour before use.
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4 Contents - Key to Signs
Accessory
Preparation
█
█
Details of the sewing computer
Preparation for sewing
8
10
Functions
█
█
Function buttons on the sewing computer
Details of the screen
Sewing stitches
█
█
Practical stitches
Examples of application
24
26
30
31
Cleaning, maintenance
█
█
Sewing computer and screen
Lubricating
44
44
Troubleshooting
Stitch patterns
Index
█
Memory
█
█
Buttonholes
Practical-/Quiltstitch
27
36
43
Glossary
Balance
clr
LED
FHS
mem
Bartack
Memory = Longterm data store
Buttonhole-bead cross-connections
Satin stitching Dense zig-zag
Fabric fold
Hook
Correcting abnormalities in stitch formation due to the fabric
Deleting settings or data
Sewing light system
Free-Hand System = Knee-operated presser-foot lifter
Folded edge of material
«Catches» the needle-thread loop, forming
the seam together with the lower thread
Very important!
Risk of damage!
Supplementary information!
* Not supplied as standard with the BERNINA 330
** Not supplied as standard with the BERNINA 350
*** Not supplied as standard with the BERNINA 380
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45
46
47-49
5-7
8-23
24-29
30-43
44
Standard Accessory
█
█
█
█
█
█
█
█
Fabric cover
Accessory box */**
Accessory case ***
Foot control
Power cable
Slide-on table*
Stitch pattern summary card
Free-Hand System FHS */**
Accessory 5
3
2
1
4
11
8
5
6
7
9
1 5 bobbins (one of them in the bobbin case)
2 Selection of needles
3 Seam guide, right
4 Height compensating tool
5 Seam ripper
6 Screwdriver, red
7 Angular Torx button
8 Lint brush
9 Lubricator
10 2 foam pads
11 3 spool discs
10
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6 Accessory
Presser Feet/Snap-On Soles (BERNINA 330/350/350 PE/380)
1 2 3
4 5
1 No. 1 Reverse pattern sole
2 No. 2 Overlock sole (without 350 PE)
3 No. 3A Automatic Buttonhole foot with
slide
4 No. 4 Zipper sole
5 No. 5 Blindstitch sole
6 No. 8 Jeans sole */**/(without
350 PE)
7 No. 20 Open embroidery sole *
8 No. 37 Patchwork sole (only 350 PE)
6 7 8
Presser Feet - Standard (BERNINA 350/350 PE/380)
1 2 3 4
1 No. 1 Reverse pattern foot
2 No. 2 Overlock foot (without 350 PE)
3 No. 3A Automatic Buttonhole foot with
slide
4 No. 4 Zipper foot
5 No. 5 Blindstitch foot
6 No. 8 Jeans foot **/(without 350 PE)
7 No. 20 Open embroidery foot
8 No. 37 Patchwork foot (only 350 PE)
5 6 7 8
More accessories you can found on www.bernina.com
Presser Feet: can vary from country to country (Snap-On Soles or Standard).
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Accessory Box */**
Accessory 7
Storing Accessory
Standard accessory are supplied in a plastic bag. They can be stored as shown in the picture.
Accessory Case ***
Standard accessory for the models B330/350 can be carefully stored in the case. Buttonhole foot 3A is stored inside in a separate compartment.
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8 Preparation - Details of the sewing computer
Front View
9
8
10
11
7
5
6
12 13 14
4
2
1
3
25
17
16
15
18
20
19
21
22
23 24
33
26
Detail View
39
40
41
42
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44
43
27
9
28
18
29
31
32
35
36
33
34
Preparation - Details of the sewing computer 9
30
37
38
1 Bobbin cover
2 Stitch plate
3 Attachment base for special accessory
4 LED sewing light
5 Quick reverse button
6 Start/Stop button
7 Thread take-up cover
8 Thread take-up lever
9 Bobbin winder pre-tension
10 Speed control
11 Screen
12 Needle stop up/down button
13 Pattern end button
14 Mirror image button */**
15 Stitch length buttons
16 Needle position buttons
17 Stitch width buttons
18 Bobbin winder device
19 Thread cutter on bobbin winder
20 Memory buttons
21 Alphabet button
22 Stitch selection buttons
23 #-button (hash button)
24 «clr» (clear) button
25 Slide-on table socket
26 FHS (Free Hand System) connection *
27 Thread tension adjustment wheel
28 Rear thread guide
29 Carrying handle
30 Vertical spool pin
31 Horizontal spool pin
32 Eyelet
33 Handwheel
34 Balance adjuster
35 Foot control socket
36 Feed-dog drop
37 Power switch on/off
38 Power plug socket
39 Needle threader
40 Thread guide
41 Needle clamp
42 Presser Foot
43 Thread cutter in hook opening
44 Feed dog
45 Thread cutter on head frame (left)
46 Presser foot lifter
47 Darning hoop connection
(USA/Canada only):
The sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way!
45
25
47
46
3
2
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10 Preparation - Sewing
Foot Control
Sewing speed control
█ control the sewing speed by pressing the foot control
Self storing cord
█
█ wind the cable around the spool insert the plug into the groove provided
While sewing
█ unwind the cable
LED Sewing Light
Slide-on Table *
The LED sewing light illuminates the sewing area and has a long product life.
Please note that a defective sewing light must ONLY be replaced by an authorized technician.
The sewing computer must be taken to an authorized BERNINA dealer!
The slide-on table increases the sewing surface.
Attaching the slide-on table
█
█ raise needle and presser foot slide over free-arm to the right until it engages
Removing the slide-on table
█
█ raise needle and presser foot press button down and pull off slide-on table to the left
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Presser Foot Lifter (FHS) */**
Preparation - Sewing 11
The FHS raises and lowers the presser foot.
Attaching the lifter
█ insert into the opening; you should be able to operate the FHS with your knee in your normal sitting position
Raising and lowering the presser foot
█ with your knee push lever to the right
█
█ the presser foot is raised; the feed dog is lowered simultaneously. The thread tension is released the feed dog is raised as soon as the first stitch is sewn
Your dealer can adjust the FHS if necessary.
Vertical Spool Pin
█
█
█
█ the vertical spool pin is on the side behind the handwheel it is an essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double needle work raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
A
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12 Preparation - Sewing
Winding a Bobbin
█
█
█
█
█
█
█
█ turn power switch on (to «I») place empty bobbin on spindle place thread on spool pin attach appropriate spool disc; diameter of thread spool determines disc size following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin and cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter push engaging lever against bobbin, the winder works automatically the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
Inserting a Bobbin
Thread cutter
█ pull thread over thread cutter when removing the bobbin
Bobbin winding while sewing
█ place thread spool on vertical spool pin then, following the direction of the
█ arrow, take thread through the thread guide and around the pre-tension stud then proceed as mentioned above
Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise.
Laying the thread into the slot
Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.
Pulling the thread under the spring
Pull the thread to the left under the spring until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of the spring. The bobbin must turn clockwise.
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Bobbin Case
A
Preparation - Sewing 13
To remove the bobbin case
█ raise needle
█
█
█
█ power switch to «0» (off) open the bobbin cover grasp the latch of the bobbin case remove bobbin case
To insert the bobbin case
█ hold the bobbin case latch
█
█ the finger on the case should point upwards insert the case so that it clicks into place
The bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing.
Bobbin thread cutter
█ insert the bobbin case
█
█ take the thread over cutter A and cut it close the bobbin cover
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14 Preparation - Sewing
Needle Threader
A
A
1
B
2 C
1 Press lever down
█ raise needle
█
█
█ lower the presser foot hold thread to the left and back press lever A down and simultaneously guide the thread around hook B to the right to the needle
2 Guide thread to front of the needle
█ put the thread from the front into the guide C until it catches in the wire hook
3 Release lever and thread
█ release lever A and thread
█
█ put the thread under the foot and pull the thread backwards or put the thread under the foot and pull it from front to back over the thread cutter on left side of the head frame
3
Threading the Upper Thread
B
A
D
Attaching the thread spool
█ raise the needle and presser foot
█
█
█
█ power switch to «0» (off) place foam pad on pin base place spool on pin (thread unwinds clockwise) attach appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool determines disc size, there
█
█
█
█
█ must be no clearance between the disc and the spool take thread through rear guide A then into slit of upper thread tension B pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover and around C take thread up to the left of the cover and around D, placing it in the take-up lever take thread down and through guides E and F
E
F
C
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Preparation - Sewing 15
Threading the Double Needle
A
Threading the First Thread
█ place thread spool on horizontal spool pin and thread
█
█ guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the right side thread sewing computer as usual and thread the right needle
Threading the Second Thread
█ place thread spool on the vertical spool pin and thread
█
█
█ guide the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the left side thread the left needle threads must not be twisted together
Threading the Triple Needle
A
█
█
█
█ two thread spools and one full bobbin are needed place one thread spool on horizontal spool pin place second thread spool and the bobbin, separated by a spool disc, on vertical spool pin (both spools have to turn in the same direction) thread as usual by guiding two threads on the left side of the tension disc A and one thread on the right side of the disc
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16 Preparation - Sewing
Thread Cutter
On the left of the head frame
█
█ pull both threads from front to back over the cutter the threads release automatically as soon as the first stitch is sewn
Changing the Needle
Removing the needle
█ raise needle
█
█
█
█ power switch to «0» (off) lower the presser foot loosen the needle clamp screw pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the needle
█ flat side of needle to the back
█
█ insert the needle as far as it will go tighten the needle clamp screw
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Changing the Presser-Foot Sole
█
█
█ raise the needle and the presser foot shaft power switch to «0» (off) press the button on the shaft to release the sole
Preparation - Sewing 17
3
Attaching the presser-foot sole
█ place the presser-foot sole under the shaft so that the peg sits under the opening of the shaft
█ lower the presser-foot lifter and the foot sole will click into position
Changing the Presser Foot
Changing the Presser Foot
█
█ raise the needle and presser foot power switch to «0» (off)
Raising the Lever
█
█ raise the clamping lever remove the presser foot
Attaching the Presser Foot
█
█ guide the foot upwards over the cone press the clamping lever down
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18 Preparation - Sewing
Stitch Plate
Thread Tension
A
B
A
Stitch Plate Markings
█ the stitch plate is marked with vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines in mm
█
█ and inches the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and precise topstitching, etc.
the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.
█
█
█
█ the diagonal markings are useful for quilting the vertical measurements correspond to the distance between the needle and the line needle insertion point is position 0 (center needle position) the measurements are marked to the right and left, measuring from the center needle position
Removing the Stitch Plate
█ raise the presser foot and needle
█
█
█ power switch to «0» (off) press the stitch plate down at the right back corner B until it flips up remove the stitch plate
Replacing the Stitch Plate
█ place the stitch plate over the opening A and press down until it clicks into place
Optimal upper thread tension is set in the factory. For this, Metrosene threads 100/2 weight (Mettler, Switzerland) are used in the bobbin and also in the upper thread.
The tension may vary when using other types of thread such as embroidery thread, and it may therefore be necessary to adjust the tension to suit the fabric and stitch type.
For example:
Metallic thread
Monofilament
Tension approx. 3 approx. 2-4
Needle
90
80
The Basic Setting
█ is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with
█
█ the marking A the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric
Perfect Stitch Formation
█ the interlooping of the threads is in the fabric
Upper thread tension too tight
█
█ the lower thread is pulled more up, i.e. to the right side of the fabric to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 3-1
Upper thread tension too loose
█
█ the upper thread is pulled more down, i.e. to the wrong side of the fabric to increase the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 5-10
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Balance
Preparation - Sewing 19
Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can naturally affect the stitch balance so that the stitch patterns are sewn too close together or not close enough.
This can be remedied with Balance to suit the fabric and produce perfect results.
Test-sewing
When using decorative stitches, we recommend to test-sew the stitch pattern on a piece of the project fabric.
If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once sewing is completed!
Normal position
Denser stitch formation - pulling the stitch pattern closer together
(shorter stitch length)
Finer stitch formation - extending the stitch pattern
(longer stitch length)
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20 Preparation - Sewing
Feed Dog
Feed-Dog Drop
Button flush with housing = sewing position.
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered.
█ for free-motion sewing (darning, embroidery, quilting, etc.)
Feed-dog and fabric feed
With each stitch the feed dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also very short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. e.g. buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch length.
Let the fabric feed evenly.
Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches.
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Preparation - Sewing 21
Height Compensation of Uneven Layers
The feed dog works accurately when the foot is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed dog cannot grip and feed the fabric. The fabric might jam.
1 1
To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot to level it.
To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates to the right of the foot close to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the plates.
Sewing Corners
When sewing corners only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed dog. Therefore it cannot grip the fabric well.
Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible to the edge of the fabric.
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22 Preparation - Sewing
Important Facts about Sewing Needles
Thread
The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality play an important role. It is recommended to use quality brands.
Cotton thread
█ cotton thread has the advantage of being a natural fiber and therefore is
█ especially suitable for sewing cotton fabrics if cotton thread is mercerized, it has a slight sheen
Polyester thread
█ it has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast
█ polyester thread is more flexible and is recommended where a strong and elastic seam is required
Needle, Thread and Fabric
Care must be taken when choosing needle and thread.
The correct needle size depends on the selected thread and fabric. The fabric weight and type determine the thread weight, needle size and point form.
Checking the needle condition
The needle condition should be checked and the needle replaced regularly. A defective needle not only damages the fabric but also the sewing computer.
Follow these guidelines:
Always replace the needle when starting a new sewing project.
Needles, Threads
Correct needle/thread combination
When sewing, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the front of the needle.
Too thin thread or too thick needle
The thread has too much clearance in the groove. Skipped stitches and damage to the thread can occur.
Too thick thread or too fine needle
The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed. This can break the thread.
Fabric/Thread
Fine fabrics:
Fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread)
Medium weight fabrics:
Normal thread
Heavy weight fabrics:
Needle size
70-75
80-90
100, 110, 120
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Preparation - Sewing 23
Overview Needles
Universal
130/705 H/60 -100
Normal point, slightly rounded
For nearly all natural and synthetic fabrics (woven and knitted)
Jersey/Stretch
130/705 H-S, H-SES, H-SUK/70-90
Ball point
Jersey, knits, stretch fabrics
Metafil
130/705 H-MET/75-90
Large eye
Sewing with metallic threads
Cordonnet (Topstitching)
130/705 H-N/80-100
Small ball point, long eye
Topstitching with thick thread
Leather
130/705 H-LL, H-LR/90-100
With cutting point
Natural and synthetic leather and plastic films
Jeans
130/705 H-J/80-110
Very fine sharp point
Heavy weight fabrics such as jeans, canvas, overalls
Microtex
130/705 H-M/60-90
Especially fine sharp point
Micro fiber fabrics and silk
Quilting
130/705 H-Q/75-90
Fine sharp point
Straight and topstitching
Embroidery
130/705 H-SUK/75-90
Large eye, slight ball point
Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics
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Wing needle (hemstitch needle)
130/705 HO/100-120
Wide needle (wing)
Hemstitching
Double wing needle
130/705 H-ZWI-HO/100
Special effects with hemstitch embroidery
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI/70-100
Needle distance:
1.0/1.6/2.0/2.5/3.0/4.0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks, decorative sewing
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI/80
Needle distance: 3.0
For decorative sewing
24 Functions
Function Buttons on the Sewing Computer
Stitch Selection
█
█
█ for stitch patterns 1-10: press the number button of your choice; stitch number and default width and length settings appear
█ press «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole) for stitch patterns 11-99: press #-button and enter desired stitch number for stitch patterns 100 and beyond: press #-button twice and enter desired stitch number
Customizing Stitch Settings
Altering stitch width
█ left button = narrow the stitch width
█
█ right button = widen the stitch width the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
Altering needle position
█
█ left button = needle to the left right button = needle to the right
Altering stitch length
█
█ left button = shortens the length right button = elongates the length
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Quick reverse temporary:
█
█ press the button the sewing computer sews stitch pattern in reverse until button is released (max. stitch length 3mm)
Application:
█ programs buttonholes
█
█
█ programs darning length for switching when in the straight stitch securing program manual securing (seam begin and end) continous reverse:
█ press button quickly twice
█
█ the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch in reverse press button once to cancel
Start/Stop button
█ starts and stops the sewing computer when operating it without foot control - the connected foot control is idle
Speed control
█ to infinitely adjust the speed control when operating the sewing computer via start/stop button
Needle stop
Basic setting is needle stop up (arrow points up).
█
█ press the button arrow points down = sewing computer stops
█
█ with needle down (needle in the fabric) press button again arrow points up = sewing computer stops with needle up
Press button a bit longer = the needle will go automatically up or down.
Pattern end
█ press the button
█ sewing computer stops at the end of a single stitch pattern or stitch combination (in Memory)
Mirror image (right/left) */**
█ press the button
█ selected stitch pattern will be sewn in mirror image
#-button
█ stitch selection button (see page 24)
Functions 25
1
2
3 clr» (clear) button
█ press button = reverts to basic settings
█ other selected functions are cleared
Exception:
█
█ needle stop up/down press «clr» button twice to clear altered basic settings of the auto-length buttonhole
Letters, numbers and characters (330 only
Block alphabet)
█
█ press Alphabet button one of the fonts will appear on the screen
█
█
█ select desired font by pressing the alphabet button press the right button to scroll letters and numbers forwards (A B C ...) press the left button to scroll letters and numbers backwards (@ Ç ?...)
Alphabet contents
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
Ä Ö Ü Å ÆŒØÑÈÉÊÀÂ
01234567890_-.’&? Ç@
Memory
█ press the button 2
█
█
█
█
«mem» will appear on the display the number of available memory spaces
(capacity of 30) and the cursor blink use the left 1 and right arrow buttons 3 to scroll patterns, letters and numbers use the right arrow button 3 to save
Temporary altered stitch Memory
█ any stitch length or width alterations will be saved automatically
For example:
█ sew an altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
█
█ select and sew another stitch, e.g. straight stitch return to zig-zag, your alterations are still active
Return to basic settings
█ individual stitch patterns can be reverted to
█ basic settings manually all altered settings are lost when the «clr»button is pressed or when the sewing computer is turned off
Application:
█ for all stitch patterns
█ particularly useful for switching between different applications
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26 Functions
Details of the Screen
1
3
4
5
6
2
7
1 Stitch width (basic setting always visible - blinks)
2 Stitch length (basic setting always visible - blinks)
3 Needle position (9 possibilities)
4 Needle stop up/down
5 Number of stitch pattern
6 Number of presser foot (for selected stitch pattern)
7 Satin stitch: dense, short zig-zag stitch
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Functions 27
Memory
1 2 3
Stitch patterns, letters, and numbers can be combined and stored in memory
(capacity of 30 spaces).
It's a long-term memory. The contents remain saved until deleted by the user.
Power cuts or switching off («0») the sewing computer for a longer time will not affect the saved program. The stitch lengths or widths and the needle position can be changed at any time.
Individual stitch patterns, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.
Memory buttons
█ use the left button 1 to scroll the memory contents backwards
█
█ use the center button 2 to open and close the memory use the right button 3 for programming the memory and scrolling the memory contents forwards
Programming Practical and Decorative Stitches
Opening the memory
█ press the button 2
█
█
█ the cursor and the available number of empty memory spaces (e.g. 30) start to blink, and «mem» appears select desired stitch pattern the number of the stitch pattern appears on the display
█
█
█
█ press the button 3 the stitch is programmed the number of available memory spaces appears select the next stitch pattern and program as described, etc.
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28 Functions
Programming Alphabets and Numbers
Starting to sew
█
█ press the foot control = the sewing computer starts automatically at the beginning of a stitch pattern combination select Pattern End as well = the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of a stitch pattern combination
The following special programs cannot be saved in memory:
330:
No. 5 Securing program
No. 10 Buttonhole
No. 11 Button sewing-on program
No. 16 Darning program
350:
No. 5 Securing program
No. 10-11 Buttonholes
No. 12 Button sewing-on program
No. 13 Eyelet
No. 20 Darning program
No. 21 Basting stitch
380:
No. 5 Securing program
No. 10-13 Buttonholes
No. 14 Button sewing-on program
No. 15 Eyelet
No. 22 Darning program
No. 23 Basting stitch
4 5 6
Opening the memory
█ press the button 2
█
█
█ the cursor and the available number of empty memory spaces (e.g. 30) start to blink, and «mem» appears press the Alphabet button 5 to select the alphabet of your choice the letter A in the alphabet of your choice appears on the display
█
█
█
█
█
█ use the arrow buttons 4 and 6 to scroll the alphabet select letter/number press the button 3 = letter/number is programmed the number of available memory spaces appears proceed as described to select and program more letters and/or numbers when programming more than one word, select the underscore symbol (_) to program a space between the words
If the stitch length and/or width of letters or numbers have been altered, the alterations will affect all of them.
If you only want to alter single letters or numbers, this must be done individually.
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Functions 29
Corrections in Memory
1 2 3
Deleting complete Memory contents
█
█
█
█ press the «clr»-button, keep depressed and press the button 2 release both buttons leave memory by pressing the button 2
Memory is now completely deleted
Leaving the Memory
The contents of the Memory remain saved even when the sewing computer is disconnected from the electrical supply. They can be recalled at any time.
The contents of the memory will be lost if the sewing computer is switched off without pressing the button 2 before closing the memory.
Overwriting individual stitch patterns, letters and numbers
█ scroll with the right 3 or left 1 button to find the stitch pattern you want to
█
█ overwrite select new stitch number/letter/number, new stitch length/width or needle position press the right arrow button 3; the stitch pattern is overwritten
Deleting individual stitch patterns, letters and/or numbers
█ scroll with the right 3 or left 1 button to find the stitch pattern you want to
█
█ delete press the «clr» button stitch pattern/letter/number is deleted
█
█
█ press button 2 = contents are saved
Memory is closed
«mem» disappears from the display
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30 Sewing stitches - Practical stitches
Practical Stitches
Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics; all straight-stitch work
1
2
Zig-zag stitch
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as overcasting edges. Sewing on elastic and lace
Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems
3
Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams, etc.
4
Securing stitch
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch
5
Triple straight and triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in firm, heavy fabrics
6
7
Blindstitch
Most types of fabric. Blind hems; shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics; decorative seams
Double overlock
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation
8
Super stretch
For super-stretch fabrics; open seam in all super-stretch fabrics
9
Gathering stitch
Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams = butting two pressed edges and sewing together
Stretch overlock
Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams
Jersey stitch
Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems.
Mending jersey/interlock
Universal stitch
Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat joining seams, visible seams, attaching elastic, decorative seams
Lycra stitch
All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining seams and hems, reinforced seaming on underwear
Stretch stitch
All stretch fabrics; open seam in sportswear
Darning program
Automatic darning for fine and mediumweight fabrics
Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams and hems
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Sewing stitches - Examples of application 31
Examples of Application
Zippers
Zipper foot/sole No. 4
Straight Stitch
Preparation
█ baste seam closed and clean finish the seam allowance
█ baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric folded edges meet over the center of the zipper
Sewing
█ open zipper a little
█
█
█ start sewing from top left position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper coils stop in front of the pull (needle position down), raise the presser foot and close zipper again
█
█
█ continue to sew to the base of the zipper (needle position down) turn fabric and sew across the seam (needle position down) turn fabric again and sew second side of the zipper from bottom to top
Variation: Sew both sides of zipper from bottom to top
█ suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain (e.g. velvet)
█
█
█ prepare zipper as described above start sewing in the seam of the zipper end and sew first side from bottom to top sew the second side the same way from bottom to top
To sew around zipper pull
█ close the zipper and sew up to about 2” (5cm) away from the pull
█ stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot.
Open zipper, pulling the tab below the needle; lower presser foot and continue to sew
Seam begin
Hold thread firmly when starting to sew = pull fabric slightly to the back (fewer stitches).
Zipper or fabric is thick or densely woven
For even stitch formation use a 90 -100 needle.
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32 Sewing stitches - Examples of Application
Darning
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Automatic Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
Darning program
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics.
Darning with Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1 (auto stitch counter)
█ insert the needle in the top left of the worn area
█
█
█
█ sew the first vertical row and stop the sewing computer press the Quick reverse button to program the length complete Darning program; the sewing computer stops automatically clear the program by pressing the «clr» button
Move project accordingly for a wider and/or longer darning area.
Darning with the Automatic buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
█
█ use for small tears and damaged areas, not more than 3cm (1 1/4”) long same procedure as with foot No. 1
Reinforcement
Use fine fabric or (adhesive) interlining as a backing.
Preparation
Hoop fabric into darning ring to prevent puckering.
Zig-zag
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
█
█
█
█ for all fabrics overcasting elastic seams decorate sewing
Overcasting edges
█ guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot
█
█
█
█ do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the other side the edge should lie flat and not roll use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric
Satin stitch
█
█ dense, short zig-zag stitch (stitch length 0.5-0.7mm, 1/5" to 1/3") use satin stitch for appliqué, embroidery, etc A B C
A Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width
B Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length
C Edge neatened with zig-zag stitch
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Vari-Overlock
Double Overlock
2
Sewing stitches - Examples of application 33
Overlock foot/sole No. 2
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Vari-overlock stitch
The Overlock foot/sole No. 2 is specifically designed for overlock stitching.
The pin on the foot allows for more thread in each stitch so that the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
█
█ guide the open edge along the pin on the foot/sole the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
Knits and jersey
Use a new Jersey needle to prevent damaging the loops.
Sewing stretch fabrics
If neccessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers.
Overlock foot/sole No. 2
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Double overlock stitch
Closed seam
Overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys.
Sewing
Guide the open edge along the pin on the foot/sole.
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34 Sewing stitches - Examples of application
Ribbing with Overlock Stitch
Wrong side of fabric
Overlock foot/sole No. 2
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Vari-overlock stitch
For all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey.
Preparation
█
█ fold ribbing in half and press with right sides together, pin and baste ribbing to neckline
Sewing
█ sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
█
█ guide the open edge along the pin on the foot/sole the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing - great aid when sewing curves (necklines/armholes).
Right side of fabric
Honeycomb Stitch Edges
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Honeycomb stitch
For all firm knits, especially cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey.
Preparation
Press (and baste if required) edge 1cm (3/8") to wrong side.
Sewing
█
█ sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing - great aid when sewing curves (necklines/armholes).
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Sewing stitches - Examples of application 35
Blind hem
wrong side of fabric right side of fabric
Securing Stitch
5 wrong side of fabric
Blindstitch foot/sole No. 5
Blindstitch
For invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and blended fabrics.
Preparation
█ finish raw edges
█
█
█ fold the hem and baste or pin in place fold the fabric back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished lower edge (see drawing) place the work under the presser foot with the guide positioned against the folded-back fabric
Sewing
█ the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold (as when hand blind-
█
█
█ stitching) adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric thickness after sewing about 4” (10cm), check both sides of fabric and adjust width again if necessary the metal guide on the sole of the blindstitch sole can be adjusted sideways by turning the screw on the right
Fine stitch-width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly along the metal guide on the foot = even depth.
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Securing program
█
█ for all fabrics secures beginning and end of seam
Sewing long seams
█
█ quicker securing at beginning and end of seam even securing by defined stitch count
Sew begin
█ the sewing computer secures seam automatically (5 stitches forward,
█
5 stitches reverse) then it continues with straight-stitch forward
Ending the seam
█ press the Quick reverse button on head frame; the sewing computer
█ secures automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 stitches forward) the sewing computer stops automatically when securing is complete
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36 Sewing stitches - Buttonholes
Buttonhole Summary
Standard buttonhole
Fine to mediumweight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens, etc.
Stretch buttonhole
All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers
Straight-stitch buttonhole
Stay-stitch program for bound buttonholes (foot no. 3A) or pocket openings (foot no. 3)
Button sewing-on program
For buttons with 2 and 4 holes
Keyhole buttonhole
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear, etc.
Straight-stitch eyelet
Openings for cords and narrow ribbons, decorative work
Everything you need to know about buttonholes
Buttonholes are not only practical closures, they can also be used to decorative effect
Select the buttonhole of your choice; the following appears on the screen:
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol (blinks)
3 Presser foot indicator
1
2
3
A
Thread tension for sewing buttonholes
█ thread the bobbin thread through the finger A of the bobbin case = the
█
█
█ bobbin thread tension is a little tighter this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded appearance the buttonhole looks more attractive gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance (page 38)
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Sewing stitches - Buttonholes 37
Marking the length of manual buttonholes
█
█ mark the buttonhole length in the desired position use Buttonhole foot/sole no. 3 */**/***
Marking the length of automatic buttonholes
█ mark the length of just one buttonhole
█
█
█ after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed mark only the beginning of all subsequent buttonholes use Automatic buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
Marking the length of keyhole buttonholes
█
█ mark the bead length only the correct length eye will be added when the buttonhole is sewn
Test sewing
█ always sew a test sample on the fabric with stabilizer you intend to use
█
█
█
█
█ select the buttonhole type you intend to use sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (horizontal or vertical, with or against the grain) cut the buttonhole open push the button through adjust the buttonhole length if necessary
To adjust the bead width
█ alter the stitch width
Altering the stitch length
█ stitch length adjustments affect both buttonhole beads (spacing between
█ the stitches) reprogram the buttonhole length after changing the stitch length
Balance for automatic and manual buttonholes
Any balance alterations to the manual and auto-length buttonholes affect both beads identically because they are sewn in the same direction.
If a buttonhole is sewn at right angles to the fabric edge/fold, we recommend the use of the height compensating plates for buttonholes (available as optional accessory).
Place the plates from the back between fabric and bottom of slide foot up to the thick part of the fabric and push to front.
When all buttonholes have been sewn, return balance to the normal setting!
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38 Sewing stitches - Buttonholes
Corded Buttonhole
Cording
█ use cording to reinforce buttonholes and enhance their appearance
█
█ the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole that is most subject to wear = where button is sewn on position the work accordingly
Ideal cords
█
Perle cotton no. 8
█
█ strong hand-sewing thread fine crochet yarn
Hooking the cord in the buttonhole foot with slide no. 3A
█ insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
█
█
█
█
█ raise the presser foot guide the cord under the foot to the right hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot guide the cord back to the front under the foot to the left pull the cord ends into the slits
Sewing
█
█ sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Hooking the cord onto presser foot no. 3 or buttonhole sole no. 3 */**/***
█ insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole
█
█
█
█ raise the presser foot hook the cord over the center pin on the front of the foot place both ends of the cord in their respective grooves on the sole of the foot and pull them to the back lower the presser foot
Sewing
█
█ sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it
Securing the cord
█ pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of
█
█ it pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, using a hand stitching-needle knot or secure with stitches
It might be useful to secure the bartack with an extra pin when working short buttonholes.
Cutting buttonholes open with the seam ripper
█ using the seam ripper, cut from the ends towards the middle
Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory)
█ place the fabric on the wood
█
█ place the cutter in the centre of the buttonhole press down on the cutter with your hand or a hammer
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Sewing stitches - Buttonholes 39
Automatic Standard Buttonhole with Auto-Length
Automatic buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
Automatic standard buttonhole
The lens on automatic buttonhole foot 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole for exact duplication.
█ the active step blinks on the screen
When any automatic buttonhole is selected, presser foot no. 3 is indicated on the screen.
The slide foot must lie perfectly flat on the fabric! If the slide foot rests on a seam allowance, the length cannot be measured accurately.
1
2 3 4 5
Programming the standard buttonhole
1. sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer
█ press the Quick reverse button
«auto» and the presser foot no. 3A appear on the display = buttonhole length is programmed.
the sewing computer sews the following automatically:
2. straight stitches in reverse
3. the first bartack
4. the second bead forwards
5. the second bartack and securing stitches
█ the sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole begin
Auto-buttonhole
█ all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (no
█
█ need to press the Quick reverse button) clear the program by pressing the «clr» button the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long-term memory (refer to page 42)
Sewing speed
█ sew at moderate speed for best results
█ sew all buttonholes at the same speed for a consistent bead density
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40 Sewing stitches - Buttonholes
Automatic Keyhole Buttonhole with Auto-Length
Automatic buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole
2 3 4 5
1
6
Programming the buttonhole
1. sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing computer
█ press the Quick reverse button
«auto» and presser foot no. 3A appear on the screen = buttonhole length is programmed.
2. the sewing computer automatically sews the eye
3. the first bead in reverse
4. straight stitches forwards
5. the second bead in reverse
6. the bartack and securing stitches
█ the sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole begin
Auto-buttonhole
█ all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same length (no
█
█ need to press the Quick reverse button) clear the program by pressing the «clr» button the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long-term memory (refer to page 42)
Exact duplicates
The auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one.
Double-sewn keyhole buttonholes
█ keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics - use a
█
█ longer stitch length for the first run after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work reduce the stitch length and tap the foot control once to begin sewing again
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Manual buttonhole (all types)
Sewing stitches - Buttonholes 41
Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes.
The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.
Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
Buttonhole foot/sole No. 3 */**/***
Preparation
█ select the desired buttonhole
█
█
█
█
█ display shows: the number of the selected buttonhole
Buttonhole foot no. 3 the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks on the display) insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case
1
3
1
3
2
2
4
4
5
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
1. sew the bead up to the end of the length marking
█
█ stop the sewing computer press the Quick reverse button
2. sew reverse straight-stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch of the bead (buttonhole begin)
█ press the Quick reverse button
3. sew the top bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
█ press the Quick reverse button
4. sew the bottom bartack and securing stitches
Manual keyhole buttonhole
1. sew straight-stitch forwards, stop the sewing computer
█ press the Quick reverse button
2. sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch of the bead (buttonhole begin)
█ press the Quick reverse button
3. sew straight-stitch forwards and stop the sewing computer at the keyhole
█ press the Quick reverse button
4. sew the second bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch of the bead (buttonhole begin)
█ press the Quick reverse button
5. sew bartack and securing stitches
Sew both beads at the same speed.
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42 Sewing stitches - Buttonholes
Buttonhole in Long-Term Memory
1 2 3
Saving programmed buttonholes in long-term memory
█
█ after programming press the button 3 the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory
Recalling saved buttonhole
Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the sewing computer has been disconnected.
█ select the desired buttonhole type
█
█
█ press the button 2 sew the programmed buttonhole only one length per buttonhole can be saved. Saving a new length with the button 3 will overwrite the previously saved buttonhole length
Button Sewing-On Program
Darning foot No. 9 */**/***
Button sew-on foot No. 18 */**/***
Sews buttons with 2 or 4 holes.
Sewing on buttons
█ buttons sewn on for decorative purposes only are stitched without a thread
█ shank the length of the shank (= thread between button and fabric) can be made shorter or longer as required with foot no. 18
Sewing on buttons with Darning foot no. 9
█ select Button sew-on program
█
█
█
█ check distances between holes with the handwheel and adjust stitch width if necessary sew the securing stitches; hold the threads when starting to sew sew program sewing computer stops automatically when program is completed and is ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
█ the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results
█ pull both bobbin thread ends until the ends of the upper thread are visible
█ on the wrong side (knot if required) trim thread ends
Sewing on buttons with foot no. 18
█
█ set the shank length with the screw on the foot select Button sewing-on program and continue as with foot no. 9
Beginning and ending threads
█ the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For secure results
█ pull both bobbin thread ends until the ends of the upper thread are visible
█ on the wrong side (knot if required) trim thread ends
Sewing 4-hole button
█ sew the front holes
█
█ carefully move the button forward sew the back holes with the same program
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Basting Stitch
Handlook Quilting Stitch
Sewing stitches - Practical-/Quiltstitch 43
Darning foot No. 9 */**/***
Basting stitch
█
█
█
█ for all work which requires a very long stitch for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
temporary joining easy to remove
Preparation
█ lower the feed-dog
█ pin work at a right angle to basting direction to prevent the layers from slipping
Basting
█ position work under the presser foot and sew one stitch; hold threads when
█
█ starting to sew pull work from behind to the required length of the stitch sew one stitch and repeat the procedure
Securing/fixing the thread
Sew a few short basting stitches at the beginning and end of a seam.
Thread
Use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove.
Reverse pattern foot/sole No. 1
Handlook quilting stitch
Suitable for all fabrics and work which should look «hand sewn».
Test sewing
█ the bobbin thread must come through to the right side
█
█
1 stitch is visible (bobbin thread)
1 stitch is invisible (monofilament) = hand-look effect
Upper thread tension
Depending on the fabric = increase the tension (6-9).
Balance
Adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary.
Perfect corners
█ activate Pattern end and Needle stop down and pivot the work
█ when pivoting make sure that the fabric does not become distorted
Monofilament breaks
█
█ sew more slowly reduce upper thread tension slightly
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44 Cleaning, maintenance
Cleaning, Maintenance
Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
Wipe with a damp cloth.
Feed-dog area
Clean the sewing computer after every use - remove any lint from under the stitch plate and in the hook area.
█ power switch to «0» (off)
█
█
█
█
█
█ pull out plug from electrical outlet remove presser foot and needle open the free arm cover press the stitch plate down at the back right corner, lift and remove clean the area with the lint brush replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
█ power switch to «0» (off)
█
█
█
█ pull out plug from electrical outlet remove the bobbin case push the release lever to the left let down the locking lever and the black hook race cover
█
█
█
█
█
█ remove the hook clean the hook race with a cloth or brush, never use a sharp instrument replace the hook, turning the handwheel if necessary until the hook driver is on the left close the hook race cover and secure with the locking lever, the locking pin must engage check by turning the handwheel insert the bobbin case
Lubricating
█ power switch to «0» (off)
█
█
█ pull out plug from electrical outlet squeeze 1 or 2 drops of oil into the hook race run the sewing computer for a short time without thread to prevent oil soiling your work
Disconnect plug from the socket before cleaning or lubricating!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
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Troubleshooting 45
Troubleshooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.
Check whether:
█ the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
█
█
█
█
█
█ the needle is inserted correctly with the flat side to the back the needle size is correct - check the needle/thread table page 22 the needle tip and shaft are undamaged the sewing computer is clean - brush out any thread lint the hook race is clean any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring
Fault
Uneven stitch formation
Skipped stitches
Upper thread breaks
Lower thread breaks
Needle breaks
Thread is caught in the area of the take-up lever
Cause
█
█
█
█
█
█
Upper thread too tight/too slack
Needle blunt or bent, poor-quality needle
Needle inserted incorrectly
Poor-quality thread
Needle/thread combination is incorrect
Incorrectly threaded
█
█
█
█
Incorrect needle system
Needle blunt or bent, poor-quality needle
Needle inserted incorrectly
Incorrect needle point
█
█
█
█
Upper thread tension too tight
Incorrectly threaded
Poor-quality or old thread
Stitch plate or hook tip damaged
█
█
█
Lower thread tension too tight
Stitch hole in the stitch plate has been damaged
Needle blunt or bent
█
█
█
█
Needle not correctly inserted
Fabric was pulled
Fabric was pushed when thick material used
Poor-quality thread, unevenly wound or knotted
█
Upper thread breaks
Faulty stitching
Sewing computer
Repair
█
█
█
█
█
█
Reduce/increase upper thread tension
Use new, high-quality needle (BERNINA)
The flat side of the shank must be to the back
Use quality threads (Isacord, Mettler, Gütermann)
Match the needle to the thread size
Check upper thread threading path/lower thread threading path
█
█
█
█
Use needle system 130/705 H
Use new, good quality needles
Insert needle as far up as it will go
Match the needle type to the fabric
█
█
█
█
Reduce upper thread tension
Check upper thread threading path
Use high-quality thread
Have sewing computer checked by a specialized dealer
█
█
Reduce lower thread tension
Have sewing computer checked by a specialized dealer
█
Use new needle
█
█
█
█
Tighten the needle clamp screw
Do not pull the fabric during sewing
Use the correct presser foot for thick material (e.g. Jeans foot no. 8, use height compensating tool when sewing over a thick seam
Use high-quality thread
█
Remnants of thread between the tension discs
█
█
Incorrect threading
Remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring
█
Sewing computer fails to run or runs slowly
If the lower thread breaks and the thread is trapped in the area of the take-up lever, proceed as follows:
█
█ power switch to «0» (off) remove the screw on the headframe with the angular Torx button
█
█
█ turn headframe cover slightly to the left, then slide it upwards remove remnants of thread attach headframe and retighten screw
█
█
█
Fold a piece of thin fabric and slide the folded edge (not the raw edges) between the thread tension discs, moving the fabric back and forth to clean the right and left side of the thread tension
Check upper and lower thread
Carefully remove any thread remnants from under the spring
█
█
█
Plug not properly inserted
Power switch to «0» (off)
Sewing computer has been standing in a cold room
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
46 Stitch patterns
Stitch-Pattern Summary
BERNINA 330
11
12
13
14
Button sewing-on program
Gathering stitch
Stretch overlock
Universal stitch
15
16
Lycra stitch
Darning program
17 Honeycomb stitch
18-37 Decorative stitches
38-40 Quilting stitches
BERNINA 350/350 Patchwork Edition
BERNINA 380
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Keyhole buttonhole
Button sewing-on program
Straight-stitch eyelet
Gathering stitch
Stretch overlock
Jersey stitch
Universal stitch
Lycra stitch
Stretch stitch
Darning program
Basting stitch
Honeycomb stitch
23-74 Decorative stitches
75-85 Quilting stitches
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Stretch buttonhole
Keyhole buttonhole
Straight-stitch buttonhole
Button sewing-on program
Straight-stitch eyelet
Gathering stitch
Stretch overlock
Jersey stitch
19
20
21
22
Universal stitch
Lycra stitch
Stretch stitch
Darning program
23
24
Basting stitch
Honeycomb stitch
25-103 Decorative stitches
104-115 Quilting stitches
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
Index 47
Index
A
Accessory 5-7
Adjusting the stitch width/length 24
Alphabets/characters
█
█
█
█
Changing the size of lettering
Combining 28
In long-term memory
Selecting
28
42
9, 25, 28
█
Sewing 28
Automatic Buttonhole
█
Foot with slide 3A
█
6
Programming 39-40
Automatic functions
█
█
█
Darning 32
Needle stopp
Pattern end
9, 25
9, 25
B
Balance 19
█
█
Buttonholes
Decorative stitches
19, 37
19
Basting 43
Blind stitch
█
Practical stitch
█
Presser foot
Bobbin
█
Removing/inserting the bobbin
30, 35
6
█
█
12
Winding 12
Bobbin case
Removing/inserting 13
Button sew-on program 42
Buttonhole
█
4-steps 41
█
█
█
█
5-steps 41
Automatic 39-40
Balance 37
Buttonhole type
█
█
█
█
█
█
█
Cutting open
Important information
In long-term
36
38
36-37
42
Manual 41
Presser feet 6
Programming 39
Stabilizers 38
C
Carrying handle 9
Change
█
Letter size in alphabets 28
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
█
█
█
█
█
Programmed buttonhole
Sewing speed
Stitch patterns
Stitch width and length
Thread tension
42
10, 25
27
9, 24, 28
9, 18, 36
Cleaning 44
Combining
█
Alphabets 28
█
█
█
█
Correcting 29
Deleting 29
Practical-/decorative stitches
Saving
27
27-28
Contents 4
D
Darning 30, 32
Decorative Stitch patterns
█
46
Summary 46
Deleting
█ clr 25
█
█
Combinations 29
Stitches 29
Details
█
█
Accessory 5
Sewing computer 8-9
Display 26
█
Overview 26
Double and triple needles
█
█
For decorative stitching
Threading double and triple needles
E
External function buttons
F
23
15
9, 24-25
Fabric
█
Feed 20
█
Needle and thread
Fabric feed
22
20
Feed-dog
█
█
Position
Raising/lowering the feed-dog
20
20
Foot control
█
Connection 9
Free Hand System (FHS) 5, 9, 11
48 Index
Handwheel 9
Hem
█
Blind hem
High compensation tool
I
35
5, 21
Overlock
█
Overlock foot
█
6
Seam 33-34
█
Stitches 30
Overwriting 29
P
Inserting a bobbin
L
LED sewing light
Lettering size
Long Term Memory
Main power switch
12
10
28
27, 42
Lubricating 44
Patchwork
█
Special Feet
Permanent reverse Sewing
M
9
Maintenance and troubleshooting
█
44-45
Cleaning 44
█
█
Maintenance 44
Troubleshooting 45
Manual threading
█
█
Double and triple needles
Lower thread
█
Upper thread
15
12
14
Memory
█
Modifications 29
█
█
Opening
Stitch combinations
27, 28
27
Quilting
█
Stitches
6
25
Power cable
█
Connection 9
Practical stitches
█
█
█
Adjusting individual
Brief Description
24
30
Preparing and setting up
█
The sewing computer
█
█
8-23
Presser foot
Changing the presser foot 17
Display 26
█
█
Presser feet summary
Raise/lower the presser foot
6
9, 11
Pre-tension 9
Q
43, 46
R
Mirror-image function
█
Left/right 25
Reverse sewing
█
█
Button
Permanent reverse sewing
N
Running stitch
Needle
█
Altering the needle position
█
█
█
Changing the needle
Double and triple needles
In standard accessory
24
16
15, 23
5
Information 22
█
█
█
█
█
Needle stop up/down
Needle summary
Needle/thread combination
Position button
█
Threading 14
Needle clamp 9
25
23
22
24
S
Safety instructions
9, 25
25
30
2
Saving
█
Function button
█
Saving stitch pattern combinations
Select
█
Alphabets
█
█
█
█
Buttonholes
Practical stitches
Quilting stitches
Stitch patterns
25
27, 28
9, 25, 28
36, 46
30, 46
46
24, 46
Servicing 44
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
Index 49
Sewing
█
Accessory 5
█
█
█
Balance 19
Basic settings 26
Content 4
█
█
█
█
█
█
Function buttons
Reverse sewing/Backstepping
Sewing corners
Sewing pattern combinations
24-25
25
21
28
Stitchcategory 46
With height compensation plates 21
Sewing computer cover 5
Thread cutter
█
For bobbin thread
█
█
For bobbin winder
On Head Frame
Thread path/Thread guides
Thread take up cover
Thread tension
Triple Needle
Triple Straight Stitch
13
9, 12
9, 16
9
9, 14
9, 18
15, 23
30
Sewing light LED
Sewing speed
10
10, 25
Single pattern
█
Changing in pattern combination
█
29
Deleting 29
█
█
Securing 25
Selection by number
Slide on table
24
5, 9, 10
Speed control
Spool discs
9, 25
5
Spool holder
Start-Stop Button
9, 11
9, 25
Troubleshooting 45
U
Upper thread
█
Breaks 45
█
█
Tension 18
Threading 14
W
Winder
█
Pre-tension 9
█
Switching on/off 12
Z
Zig-zag stitch 30, 32
Stitch pattern
█
█
█
Buttonholes
Decorative stitches
36, 46
46
Display 26
█
█
█
█
Functions 25
Overview 46
Practical stitches
Quilt stitches
30, 46
46
Stitch pattern selection
█
By number 24
Stitch plate
█
Attaching/removing 18
Stitchcategory 46
Straight stitch 30
Zipper
█
█
Inserting a zipper
Zipper foot
Summary
█
Screen 26
█
█
█
Sewing computer
Sewing functions
Stitch patterns
8-9
25
46
T
Thread
█
General facts
█
Matching fabric, thread and needle
22
22
31
6
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
50 Imprint
Text
Herbert Stolz
Graphics www.sculpt.ch
Fotos
Patrice Heilmann, CH-Winterthur
Typesetting, Layout
Susanne Ribi/Erika Vollenweider-Czibulya
Copyright
2009 BERNINA International AG, CH-Steckborn
All rights reserved
For technical and product improvement reasons, the sewing computer's features, parts and accessory are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time. The accessory included can differ from country to country.
2014/02 EN 033301.71.04
033301.71.04_2014-02_Manual_B330_B350_PE_B380_EN
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