Whirlpool ice maker Installation guide

Home Appliances

G

Installation

U I D E

Table of Contents

(complete) ................... 2

Requesting Assistance

or Service ....................... 2

Important Information ... 3

Before You Begin .......... 4

Installing the

Ice Maker ........................ 6

Installing the

Water Line .................... 16

Final Installation .......... 22

Starting the

Ice Maker ...................... 24

Troubleshooting .......... 25

PART NO. 2181913 Rev. A

MODULAR ICE MAKER KIT

www.whirlpool.com

2

Table of

Contents

Page

Requesting Assistance or Service ........... 2

Important Information .............................. 3

Before You Begin ....................................... 4

Tools ........................................................ 4

Installation notes ...................................... 4

Important safety instructions .................... 4

Components ............................................ 5

Installing the Ice Maker .............................. 6

Making preparations ................................ 6

Side-by-side models ................................ 7

Top/bottom freezer models ...................... 9

Installing the tubing clips ....................... 10

Preparing the water valve tubing

(for bottom freezers only)....................... 11

Mounting the water valve ....................... 12

Connecting the water valve tubing......... 13

Mounting the ice maker ......................... 14

Page

Routing the copper tubing ..................... 17

Installing the shut-off valve .................... 18

Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve ............................... 19

Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve................................... 20

Turning the water on .............................. 21

Final Installation ....................................... 22

Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing ...................... 22

Connecting the power/ leveling the unit ...................................... 23

Starting the Ice Maker .............................. 24

Troubleshooting ....................................... 25

Operational notes .................................. 25

Troubleshooting chart ............................ 25

The modular ice maker service sheet .... 26

Ice maker replacement parts list ............ 27

Requesting

Assistance or

Service

If you need assistance, contact your dealer, or call the Whirlpool Consumer Assistance

Center toll-free, 1-800-253-1301, 24 hours a day.

Important Information

The following information is used throughout this Installation Guide. Read it carefully so you are familiar with it.

Your safety and the safety of others are very important.

We have provided many important safety messages in this manual and on your appliance. Always read and obey all safety messages.

This is the safety alert symbol.

This symbol alerts you to potential hazards that can kill or hurt you and others.

All safety messages will follow the safety alert symbol and either the word “DANGER” or “WARNING.” These words mean:

DANGER

You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t immediately follow instructions.

WARNING

You can be killed or seriously injured if you don’t follow instructions.

All safety messages will tell you what the potential hazard is, tell you how to reduce the chance of injury, and tell you what can happen if the instructions are not followed.

• This Installation Guide gives you complete instructions on how to install the Ice Maker

Kit in your refrigerator-freezer and connect a water line to it. Please read the guide carefully and follow the instructions exactly as described. Also, make sure that you observe all of the “safety” instructions.

• This kit is designed so that almost anyone can install it; however, a certain amount of mechanical ability is required.

• Before you start to install your Ice Maker

Kit, you will have to purchase a copper tubing kit that contains a “Regular Valve and Clamp Assembly” (for refrigerators with an automatic ice maker, or self-filling trays).

The kit contains all of the hardware necessary to connect your ice maker to the water supply. You can purchase one at most hardware or plumbing supply stores.

• DO NOT USE PIERCING-TYPE, OR 3 ⁄

16

"

SHUT-OFF VALVES. They reduce the flow of water to the ice maker, and are easily clogged.

• DO NOT USE POLYETHYLENE TUBING to connect the ice maker to the water line.

Use only 1 ⁄

4

" (O.D.) copper tubing.

CUSTOMER INSTALLATION IS NOT

WARRANTED BY THE REFRIGERATOR

OR ICE MAKER MANUFACTURER.

3

Before You Begin

Tools

You will need these tools to install your kit.

1. Regular screwdriver

2. Phillips screwdriver

3.

7 ⁄

16

" and 1 ⁄

2

" open-end wrenches (or an adjustable wrench)

4. Pliers

5.

1 ⁄

4

" nut driver

6. Hand drill with 1 ⁄

4

" drill bit

7. Small hand level (optional)

8. Small 3 ⁄

4

-round file

9. Tubing cutter

10. Center punch

11. Hammer

12. Scissors

13. Ruler

14. Step stool (optional)

Installation notes

1. Follow the instructions carefully. Read through the entire step so that you understand it before you perform it.

2. The illustrations in this Installation Guide are meant to clarify the installation steps you need to perform. For each set of steps shown, refer to the diagram immediately beside or below the text for clarification.

Some illustrations also contain “DETAILS.”

DETAILS are contained in bubbles alongside the larger illustration. A DETAIL shows a close-up illustration of a certain portion of a diagram or an illustration of a specific step you are to perform. DETAILS are labeled A, B, or C and are clearly referenced in each step.

3. When you are instructed to install a part, position the part as shown in the illustration.

4

Important safety instructions

WARNING

To minimize possible shock hazard, the cord must be plugged into a mating 3-prong ground-type outlet, grounded in accordance with local codes and ordinances. If a mating outlet is not available, it is the personal responsibility and obligation of the customer to have the properly grounded outlet installed by a qualified electrician.

Electrical Shock Hazard

Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Do not remove ground prong.

Do not use an adapter.

Do not use an extension cord.

Failure to follow these instructions can result in death, fire, or electrical shock.

3-prong ground-type wall outlet

3-prong ground plug

If you intend to use power tools, such as an electric drill, during the installation, make sure that the AC receptacle is properly grounded in accordance with the National Electrical

Code (ANSI/NFPA 70) and all local codes and ordinances.

Power supply cord

Ground plug

Correct power receptacle and plug configuration

B E F O R E Y O U B E G I N

Components

Remove the contents from the shipping carton and set them on a table where they can be easily identified and located. Check all of the components in the kit against the following list to help you become familiar with them. When you identify a component, place a check mark ( 3) after it. The KEY numbers correspond to the “Component Illustrations.”

IMPORTANT: When you remove the water valve and flexible tubing from the styrofoam packing insert, do not remove the tubing from the valve. It has been factory-installed and leak-tested. Do not disturb the compression nut that connects the tubing to the valve, or the valve may leak after you connect it to the water supply.

Do not discard any of the packing material until you account for all of the components. If you need to order a replacement part for the

Ice Maker, a replacement parts list is provided on page 27.

KEY QTY. DESCRIPTION

7

8

5

6

3

4

1

2

1 Ice maker

1 Ice bucket

1 Water valve w/tubing

1 Fill tube

1 Gasket

1 Short extension tube

1 Long extension tube*

2 Ice maker clips*

9 2 Tubing clips

10 1 Metal water tube insert

11 1 Water valve tubing clamp

12 4 1 ⁄

2

" hex-head sheet-metal screws

13 2 1 ⁄

2

" hex-head machine screws

14 2 3 ⁄

4

" hex-head sheet-metal screws

* For installation in Side-By-Side Models only.

➀

➂

COMPONENT ILLUSTRATIONS

➃

➉

➁

➄

➅

➆

11

12

➇

➈

14

13

5

6

Installing the Ice Maker

Making preparations

Refer to the illustration below for the following steps.

1. Carefully pull the refrigerator away from the wall so that you can easily access the rear panel.

WARNING

Electrical Shock Hazard

Disconnect power before installing ice maker.

Failure to do so could result in death or electrical shock.

IMPORTANT: If you have a side-by-side model refrigerator-freezer, be careful when you open the freezer door to work inside that you do not force the door against the stop at the bottom of the door. If you bend the stop, the door will not close properly.

2. On appliances with a top or a bottom freezer, open the freezer door and remove all of the food items from inside the freezer compartment.

For side-by-side units, you should only have to remove food items from the top half of the freezer section. This should give you enough room to access the areas to install the ice maker.

Rear wall

3. On an appliance with a bottom freezer, remove the slide-out basket, the ice cube trays, and the wire ice cube holder (if necessary, refer to your “Use and Care

Guide” for the procedure). Set these items aside.

On top-mount models without a full-width freezer shelf, remove the ice tray shelf.

Place the shelf aside, as you will use it later to support the ice bucket.

If you have a side-by-side model refrigerator, proceed to “Side-by-side models” on page 7. If you have a refrigerator with a top or a bottom freezer, proceed to “Top/bottom freezer models” on page 9.

NOTE: The work area for all three model refrigerator-freezers is shown in DETAIL A below.

Detail left side of freezer compartment

You will be working in these areas

Rear wall Rear wall

Power cord plug and receptacle

Power cord plug and receptacle

Power cord plug and receptacle

Side-by-side model Top freezer model Bottom freezer model

Work areas on the three model refrigerator-freezers

I N S T A L L I N G T H E I C E M A K E R

Side-by-side models

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps. You will be working inside the freezer compartment.

Hole

Insert pin into hole

Pin

Hole cover

1. Remove the phillips screw from the ice maker wiring cover and remove the cover.

Wiring harness

Slot

Phillips screw

Tab

Insert tab into slot 2. Refer to DETAIL A, and with a pair of pliers, break away the tabs from the wiring cover and discard them.

DETAIL A

Wiring cover

3. Insert the blade of a small screwdriver under the edge of the round hole plug for the fill tube, (located at the back of the freezer liner), and pry it out. You can discard the plug.

Break off and discard

Ice maker wiring cover

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps. You will be working on the outside at the rear of the cabinet.

1. In the upper right corner of the cabinet, peel off the label that is over the fill tube hole.

2. Pull the foam insert out of the fill tube hole and discard it.

Remove this label for Ice Maker installation

Foam insert

Label

Removing the label and foam plug

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

1. Locate the fill tube and the round foam gasket from the ice maker kit (the gasket may already be installed on the fill tube). If not already done, slide the gasket over the end of the fill tube.

2. Insert the fill tube through the hole in the rear of the refrigerator with the spout facing down, and secure it with two 1 ⁄

2

" hex-head sheet-metal screws.

1 ⁄

2

" hex-head sheet-metal screws

Spout

Fill tube

Foam gasket

Installing the fill tube/gasket

7

Refer to the side diagram for the following step. You will be working inside the freezer compartment.

1. Install the plastic extension by sliding it over the fill tube as far as it will go.

Slot

Wiring harness

Long fill tube extension

Fill tube

Refer back to the side diagram for the following step.

2. Position the wiring harness so that it is through the slot in the wiring cover. Insert the tab at the back of the wiring cover into the freezer liner slot. Press the pin on the side of the wiring cover into the hole in the side of the freezer liner so it locks into place. Secure the wiring cover with the phillips screw you removed earlier.

Proceed to “Installing the tubing clips” on page 10.

Installing the long fill tube extension

Hole

Insert pin into hole

Pin

Wiring harness

Hole cover

Slot Phillips screw

Tab

Insert tab into slot

Wiring cover

Break off and discard

Replacing the ice maker wiring cover

8

Top/bottom freezer models

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

1. On models with a open-top ice maker

fill tube and wiring cover, remove the screw from the ice maker wiring cover.

Squeeze top and bottom to loosen snaps.

Remove and discard ice maker wiring cover.

On models with a flat cover, remove the screw from the ice maker wiring cover.

Unhook the right side tab from the edge of the back cover. Remove ice maker wiring cover.

Look at the back side of the flat wiring cover and note the grooved lines. Use a pair of pliers and bend the areas inside the grooved lines back and forth until they break away from the wiring cover.

Mounting hole

Hex screw

Mounting hole

Snap

Open top fill tube

Snaps

Cover

Removing wiring cover with open-top fill tube

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

2. Pull the 4-wire ice maker harness out from behind the freezer’s back cover as far as possible, and hang it over the edge of the cutout. Do not remove any other wiring from the cutout.

3. Slide the plastic fill tube extension over the end of the fill tube as far as it will go

(see DETAIL A). Note: The plastic fill tube extension is not required for models with open-top fill tube.

4. Flat wiring cover: Install the wiring cover over the fill tube with the wiring harness through the slot. Hook the tab in the side of the wiring cover into the slot in the back cover of the freezer, and secure the cover with the screw you removed earlier (see

DETAIL B).

Hex screw

Break off and discard.

Removing the flat wiring cover

DETAIL B

DETAIL A

Mounting hole

Tab

Wiring cover

Edge of cover

Fill tube

Wiring harness

Hex screw

Short fill tube extension

Route harness through slot and fill tube through hole

Installing the short fill tube extension and reinstalling the wiring cover

9

Tab

Installing the tubing clips

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

1. Remove the seven hex-head screws from the rear access cover, then remove the cover and set it aside.

NOTE: If you have a later unit with a metal panel, (see DETAIL A), remove the hexhead screw from the access cover. Discard the cover and its screw. Do not remove the

7 hex-head screws from the larger rear access cover.

2. Peel the backing from the adhesive sides of the tubing clips. Press the clips against the back of the cabinet in the right channel at the approximate locations shown in DETAIL

B. Center the clips between the fill tube (an alternate fill tube design is shown in

DETAIL C) and the top of the access opening.

If you have a bottom freezer, proceed to page

11. If you have a side-by-side (SXS) or a top freezer unit, proceed to page 12.

DETAIL C

Alternate fill tube design

Fill tube for bottom freezer models

Remove 7 hexhead screws from rear access cover

Metal panel

Access cover

DETAIL A

Remove hexhead screw from rear access cover

Installing the tubing clips

Fill tube for top and SXS freezers only

Right channel

DETAIL B

Tubing clip

Top and SXS freezers

Tubing clip

Bottom freezers

10

Preparing the water valve tubing

(for bottom freezers only)

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

CUT TUBING

HERE

1. Untape the coiled flexible tubing coming from the water valve and straighten it.

2. Starting at the top of the compression nut on the water valve, measure the tubing for

30 ", and mark the location on the tubing with a pen.

3. Use a pair of scissors or a hobby knife, and make an even cut across the water valve tubing at the 30 " mark you made in the previous step. Discard the excess tubing.

30"

MAKE AN

EVEN CUT

ACROSS

TOP

Compression nut

Water valve

Preparing the water valve tubing

(for bottom freezers only)

11

Mounting the water valve

Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.

1. Locate the 2-pin water valve solenoid connector (with the brown and two white wires) that is taped to the main wiring harness at the lower right corner of the rear access (see DETAIL A).

2. Refer to DETAIL B and insert the 2-pin connector over the water valve solenoid terminals as far as possible (if the harness is not long enough, break the tape holding it to the main harness). You can position the connector with the wires at either terminal.

3. Refer to DETAIL B and mount the water valve to the mounting holes in the cabinet frame with two 1 ⁄

2

" hex-head machine screws. Make sure that you tighten these two screws securely.

DETAIL A

2-pin connector

Brown

(2) White

DETAIL B

12

Mounting the water valve

2-pin connector

Water valve

1 ⁄

2

" hex-head machine screws

Connecting the water valve tubing

Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.

1. Refer to the inset in DETAIL A and pull the plastic insert out of the fill tube spout and discard it.

4. Refer to DETAIL B, and slide the end of the tubing into the end of the fill tube spout as far as it will go (if the tubing does not reach, pull as much as necessary up through the clips), then tighten the tubing clamp screw as much as possible. Pull on the tubing to make sure that it is secure. If it slides out of the spout, push it back in, and tighten the clamp screw further until the tubing is secure.

2. Locate the water valve tubing clamp (from the ice maker kit), and note that one of the flanges is made for a threaded screw and the other side has a round hole. Position this clamp with the round hole side facing up, and slide it over the end of the spout

(see DETAILS A and B). Thread a 1 ⁄

2

" hexhead sheet metal screw into the clamp with your fingers as far as possible. You will tighten the screw later.

3. Refer to DETAIL A, and position the metal water tube insert as shown, then press it all the way into the water valve tubing.

5. Press the tubing into the two clips (see

DETAIL C) you installed earlier on the back of the cabinet. You will connect the free end of the tubing later.

6. Pull any excess tubing near the fill tube down through the two clamps so it forms a straight line with a loop at the bottom of the water valve.

DETAIL B

Insert end of tubing into this fill tube (for top/

SXS freezers)

Top/SXS freezers Slide clamp over spout

Fill tube spout

Fill tube

Tighten screw on spout as much as possible

Insert tubing into spout as far as possible

Water valve tubing

DETAIL A

Insert end of tubing into this fill tube (for bottom freezers)

Tubing clip

DETAIL C

Bottom freezers

Remove plastic insert

INSET

Fill tube spout

Water valve tubing clamp

1 ⁄

2

" hex-head sheet-metal screw

Water tube insert

Water valve tubing

Connecting the water valve tubing to the fill tube

13

Mounting the ice maker

Refer to the side diagram for the following step.

1. Look at the ice maker’s fill cup and note that the rear of the cup has a “U” shaped groove (either of the sides may also be grooved). Use your fingers, (or a pair of pliers, if it is easier), and remove only the rear “knock-out” from the cup. Bend the area back and forth inside the groove until it breaks free. The fill tube will fit through this cutout when you install the ice maker.

Remove knock-out

Fill cup at rear of ice maker

Removing the knock-out

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

1. Remove and discard the blank connector from the wiring harness. To remove it, lift the locking arm on the side of the blank connector so it is over the tab of the wiring harness connector, and pull the blank connector off.

2. Insert the end of a small-bladed screwdriver under the edges of each of the three ice maker mounting hole plugs in the side of the freezer liner, and pry them out of their holes. You can discard the plugs.

3.

For Top/Bottom Freezers Only: Partially install two 3 ⁄

4

" hex-head sheet-metal screws into the two top mounting holes (shown in the diagram) of the freezer liner. You will hang the ice maker over these two screws later, so make sure that they protrude out far enough.

4.

For Side-By-Side Models Only: Refer to

DETAIL A and mount the two mounting clips (from the ice maker kit) to the top mounting holes of the freezer liner with two

3 ⁄

4

" hex-head sheet-metal screws. Make sure that both clips hang straight down and then tighten the screws.

14

SXS MODELS

ONLY

DETAIL A

3 ⁄

4

" hex-head sheet-metal screws

Ice maker clips

Hole plugs

Lift locking arm over tab

Tab

Blank connector

(remove and discard)

Wiring harness connector

Installing the ice maker clips

Refer to the side diagrams for the following steps.

1. Position the ice maker inside the freezer compartment and connect its wiring connector to the wiring harness connector so they lock together (the locking arm will snap over the raised tab). The connectors will fit together only one way.

2.

For Top/Bottom Freezers Only: Hang the ice maker over the two hex-head screws you installed earlier. Make sure that the bottom mounting bracket hole is aligned with the mounting hole in the freezer liner, then tighten the two top hex head screws.

Be careful not to overtighten the screws.

Tabs

Screws

Bottom mounting bracket

1/2" hex-head sheet-metal screw

Wiring harness connectors

Mounting the ice maker

(top and bottom freezers)

3.

For Side-By-Side Models Only: Position the ice maker so that its top and bottom mounting tabs are flat against the side of the freezer liner. Center the top tabs under the two mounting clips, and push the ice maker straight up so that the mounting clips snap over the tabs and lock into place (you should hear them “click” as they lock).

4. Mount the bottom bracket of the ice maker to the freezer liner mounting hole with a 3 ⁄

4

" hex-head sheet-metal screw.

Ice maker

Bottom mounting bracket

Slide tabs under clips

Insert fill tube into cup

1 ⁄

2

" hex-head sheet-metal screw

Wiring harness connectors

Mounting the ice maker

(side-by-side models)

15

Installing the Water Line

Choosing a location

1. Open the copper tubing kit that you purchased earlier, and lay the contents neatly on a table where you can identify them easily. The parts from the kit that you will use are as follows:

1 Regular Valve (not the steelpiercing type)

2 Compression Sleeves

2 Compression Nuts

2 Clamps

2 Screws

2 Nuts

1 Gasket Seal

1 Length of Coiled Copper Tubing

NOTE: When you work with the soft copper tubing, be careful not to kink it. If you accidentally kink the tubing, do not use it.

IMPORTANT: Do not install water line tubing in a location where the temperature may fall below freezing; otherwise, property damage could occur.

2. Choose a suitable water pipe location to install the water shut-off valve (see side diagram for some suggested locations). We recommend installing the valve on a vertical length of cold (not hot) water pipe that is nearest your refrigerator. If a vertical length of pipe is not nearby, you can use a horizontal length of water pipe, however, you will have to drill the access hole for the valve into the top or side of the pipe (not the bottom). This will keep water in the pipe from flowing down onto the drill, and also keep sediment from collecting in the valve later.

NOTE: Depending on the location of the horizontal pipe in relation to the floor and wall, drilling into it may not be possible.

3. Drill a 3 ⁄

8

" hole through the floor or wall to the water pipe.

Through floor to basement cold water pipe

Under sink to cold water pipe

Through wall to utility room cold water pipe

Typical water pipe locations

In crawl space under home to cold water pipe

16

Routing the copper tubing

Refer to the side diagram for the following steps.

1. Uncoil the necessary length of copper tubing and straighten it, then route the end of the tubing through the access hole you drilled to the location you have chosen to install the shut-off valve. Straighten only enough of the copper tubing to reach this location. Leave the rest coiled near the access hole.

2. At this time, make sure that you have been supplied with enough tubing so that when you are finished connecting the water line, you will have enough coiled behind the refrigerator to easily move it forward far enough to clean behind it. Also make sure that the coils are large enough so that when the unit is pulled forward, the windings will not stretch too far and kink.

3. Turn off the cold water supply going to the water pipe where you will be installing the shut-off valve.

4. Open a cold water tap that is connected to the selected water pipe and bleed off the water pressure. Leave the tap open until after you complete the water line hook up.

5. Use a hammer and a center punch, and mark the location of the hole for the shut-off valve. If you are marking copper tubing, do not strike the punch hard enough to bend it.

6. Install a 1 ⁄

4

" bit in the drill, and carefully drill an access hole through just the front side (not through both sides) of the cold water pipe.

7. Check the hole and make sure that you have drilled completely through one side of the pipe. The edges of the hole should be smooth and round. If necessary, use a small 3 ⁄

4

-round file to remove any rough edges from inside the hole, and any burrs from around the top of the hole.

;

Back wall

;

Allow 4 to 5 feet of coiled tubing for moving refrigerator

Drill 3 ⁄

8

" access hole for tubing

Coiled copper tubing

Water valve Refrigerator

Drill 1 ⁄

4

" hole in front side of vertical water pipe

;;;;;

Routing the copper tubing

17

Installing the shut-off valve

Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.

1. Locate the shut-off valve and the front pipe clamp (with the threaded hole in the center) from the copper tubing kit. Then, being careful not to crossthread the valve, screw the end with the pilot tube into the threaded hole of the clamp. Hand-tighten the valve as far as it will go (the threaded shaft is slightly tapered and can only be tightened so far).

2. Use a 1 ⁄

2

" open-end (or adjustable) wrench, and turn the body of the shut-off valve an additional 1 ⁄

8

-turn to secure it to the clamp.

3. Slide the rubber seal gasket (from the copper tubing kit) over the pilot tube (the unthreaded portion) of the shut-off valve.

4. Carefully slide the pilot tube of the shut-off valve into the water pipe access hole so it is against the seal gasket, and install the back pipe clamp over the water pipe.

Secure the clamps to the pipe with the two screws and nuts that were supplied with the copper tubing kit. Tighten the nuts equally so that the space between the clamps is the same (see DETAIL A). DO

NOT OVERTIGHTEN the nuts, or you could deform the clamps and damage the seal gasket.

DETAIL A

Keep spacing equal

Screw

Pilot tube

Shut-off valve

Front pipe clamp

Seal gasket

Nut

Back pipe clamp

Vertical cold water pipe

Mounting the shut-off valve to the water pipe

Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve

Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.

1. Straighten a 2 " section of copper tubing and make sure that the opening is round and cut evenly across the end. If necessary, use a tubing cutter (or a hacksaw) and cut the end off, then file it so it is even, and remove any burrs from around the inside and outside edges so it is smooth and round. When you are finished, clean the filings from inside the tubing as much as possible.

5. Use a 1 ⁄

2

" open-end wrench, and further tighten the compression nut on the shut-off valve one additional turn. If necessary, you will tighten the nut further after you turn on the water supply.

6. Turn the T-handle on the shut-off valve to its fully “open” (counterclockwise rotation) position.

2. Position the compression nut as shown, and slide it over the end of the copper tubing.

3. Slide a compression sleeve over the copper tubing until it is approximately

1 " from the end.

4. Insert the end of the copper tubing into the outlet connector of the shut-off valve as far as it will go, and then hand tighten the compression nut as much as possible.

Compression nut

Shut-off valve

Open

T-handle

Outlet connector

Compression sleeve

Copper tubing

Connecting the copper tubing to the shut-off valve

Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve

Refer to the diagram below for the following steps.

1. Check to make sure that the free end of the tubing is round and cut even. If necessary, prepare the end in the same manner as you did earlier. Be sure to clean the filings from inside the tubing after you prepare the end.

9. Insert the end of the tubing into the water inlet connector at the top of the water valve as far as it will go, and hand tighten the compression nut as much as possible.

When you perform the next step, be careful not to kink the copper tubing.

10. Use a 1 ⁄

2

" open-end wrench, and further tighten the compression nut on the water inlet connector one additional turn. If necessary, you will tighten the nut further after you turn on the water supply.

2. Starting at the free end, straighten approximately 20 " of the copper tubing.

3. Close the water tap you left open earlier to bleed the water lines.

11. Mount the strain relief clamp to the back of the cabinet with the hex-head screw you removed earlier.

4. Insert the end of the copper tubing into a pail, and have someone turn on the water supply. Allow enough water to flow through the lines to thoroughly flush them out. Once the water runs clear, turn off the supply and bleed the lines.

Copper tubing clamp

Mounting screw

5. Remove the strain relief clamp from the rear of the cabinet and slide it over the end of the copper tubing. Make sure you position the flanges as shown.

6. Slide a compression nut over the free end of the copper tubing.

7. Slide a compression sleeve over the copper tubing and position it 1 " from the end.

8. If one is installed, remove the plastic cap from the water inlet fitting on the water valve and discard the cap.

Water valve

Copper tubing

Compression nut

Compression sleeve

Water inlet fitting

Connecting the copper tubing to the water valve

20

Turning the water on

NOTE: Be very careful when you tighten the compression nuts that you do not overtighten them and destroy the compression sleeving and the end of the soft copper tubing. If this happens, you will have to cut off the end of the tubing, purchase a new compression sleeve, and start over. Be careful and go slow!

1. Turn on the water supply and check the shut-off valve for leakage. If necessary, refer to the side diagram, and tighten the compression nut on the shut-off valve in small increments until the leakage just stops. Wipe off the connection with a cloth each time you check for leaks.

Shut-off valve

Open

T-handle

Water flow

Compression nut

Tightening the shut-off valve connection

2. Check the water valve for any leakage. If necessary, tighten the compression nut

(see the side diagram) in small increments until the leaking just stops.

Water valve

Compression nut

Water inlet fitting

Tightening the water valve connection

21

Final Installation

Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing

1. Reinstall the rear access cover on the refrigerator so the water valve tubing is inside the cover, and the copper water line is outside (see the diagram below), then secure the cover with the seven hex-head screws you removed earlier.

2. Loop the copper tubing coming from the water valve as shown. Position the coiled copper tubing near the center of the unit so that it forms an “accordion-fold” (as shown in the diagram below) when it is moved toand-from the wall.

Form tubing loops as shown

Hex-head screws

Rear access cover

Copper tubing

Place water valve tubing behind cover

Hex-head screws

Installing the access cover and forming the copper tubing

22

Connecting the power/leveling the unit

1. Plug the power cord into its AC outlet, and carefully push the refrigerator back against the wall.

2. Place a level on top of the cabinet. If you need to relevel the refrigerator, follow the procedure to adjust the front casters, as outlined in your refrigerator’s “Use and Care

Guide.”

3. Check the position of the ice maker. If it is crooked and needs to be adjusted, loosen the bottom bracket screws (see the side diagram) and position the unit as desired, then tighten the bracket screws.

Bracket

Sheet-metal screw

Leveling screw

Leveling the ice maker

23

Starting the Ice Maker

1. Wash out the ice bucket, and then slide it under the ice maker (see the side diagram) as far as it will go. The ice bucket will be sitting on top of the freezer shelf.

Ice maker

Ice bucket

IMPORTANT: On top-mount models without a full-width freezer shelf, you will need to place the ice bucket on top of the inverted ice tray shelf. First, position the ice tray shelf face down so that the shorter side is alongside the freezer wall (see DETAIL A). Then insert the tabs on the shorter side of the shelf into the slots on the edge of the freezer floor. This will hold the shelf in position. Next, place the ice bucket on top of the inverted ice tray shelf and slide it under the ice maker (see side diagram). The ice maker will not function properly if the ice bucket is placed directly on the freezer floor.

2. Place the items back into the freezer compartment.

3. Lower the arm on the ice maker (see the side diagram) to its “on” position, and close the freezer door. The ice maker will begin to make ice within 24 hours.

NOTE: It usually takes approximately 24 hours for the ice maker to begin producing ice. Once ice is available, you may notice that it has an “off taste.” If this happens, make two or three batches of ice and discard them.

After that, the “off-taste” should be gone. If you have any problems, refer to “Troubleshooting” on page 25.

This completes the installation of your Ice

Maker.

24

Installing the ice bucket

DETAIL A

Slots

Tabs

Off

On

Raise arm to stop ice

Lower arm to start it

Turning the ice maker on

Troubleshooting

Operational notes

1. The Ice Maker water valve contains a flow washer that acts like a pressure regulator to control the water flow. For the Ice Maker to work properly, the water pressure in your home must be between 20 and 120 pounds per-square-inch (psi). If you encounter problems with your Ice Maker’s ability to produce ice, call your water utility company and have the water pressure checked.

2. The Ice Maker’s water valve is equipped with two strainers: a plastic basket type and a wire-mesh screen. Both of these can be cleaned by turning off the water and disassembling the water valve (your service center should be able to provide this service). If local water conditions require periodic cleaning, or if you use a well as a water source, you should consider installing a second water strainer in the water line. You can obtain a water strainer from your local appliance dealer.

Troubleshooting chart

The following chart lists several common problems that could occur with your Ice Maker.

PROBLEM

One or more of the following sounds is heard:

• Buzzing

• Trickling water

• Thud (clatter of ice)

Ice tastes stale.

Water in Ice Maker overflows.

Not enough ice.

Ice making has stopped.

CAUSE

The water valve is operating.

Water is entering the Ice Maker fill cup.

Ice is being dumped into the ice bin.

The ice is old. Make a new batch.

Refrigerator or Ice Maker is not level. If the Ice

Maker still overflows after leveling, turn off the

Ice Maker’s water supply at the shut-off valve, and raise the Ice Maker’s bail arm to the “off” position (see page 24); then contact your local service center.

It will take 48 hours to fill the ice bucket. The ice maker will make ice every 2 to 3 hours. For more ice, adjust the freezer control for a colder setting.

Be sure that the bail arm is lowered into the ice bucket (see page 24).

Make sure that the water shut-off valve is on.

The water shut-off valve or the water valve screen is clogged (contact your local service center).

25

The modular ice maker service sheet

Module test points

V

L

N

Removal screws (3)

T

H

M

Specifications

MOLD HEATER – 185 WATTS, 72 OHMS

THERMOSTAT – CLOSE 17° ± 3 °

(BIMETAL) OPEN 32° ± 3°

WATER FILL – 140CC, 7.5 SEC.

MOTOR – 1.5 WATTS, 8800 OHMS

MODULE – STAMPED CIRCUIT,

PLUG-IN CONNECTORS

CYCLE – ONE REVOLUTION

(EJECTS AND WATER FILL)

FOR 120 VOLT MODEL

MODULE VOLTAGE CHECKS WITH METER

OR TEST LIGHT (POWER TO ICE MAKER)

TEST

POINTS COMPONENT

LINE

VOLTAGE

0

VOLTS

L-N

T-H

L-H

L-M

N-V

MODULE

BIMETAL

HEATER

MOTOR

WATER VALVE

POWER OK

OPEN

ON

ON

ON

NO POWER

CLOSED

OFF

OFF

OFF

TEST

POINTS

L-H

L-M

MODULE OHMMETER CHECKS

(NO POWER TO ICE MAKER AND

EJECTOR BLADES IN PARK)

COMPONENT

MODULE

POSITION

MOLD HEATER

MOTOR

ATTACHED

TO SUPPORT

DISCONNECT

FROM SUPPORT

OHMS

72

8800

Water level adjustment

TURNING THE SCREW CLOCKWISE DECREASES THE

WATER FILL.

• 1 ⁄

2

TURN EQUALS 20CC OR 1.2 SEC.

• FULL TURN EQUALS 40CC OR 2.4 SEC.

• MAXIMUM ADJUSTMENT IS ONE FULL TURN EITHER

DIRECTION. ADDITIONAL ROTATION COULD DAMAGE

MODULE.

Service Procedures

COVER

PULL WATER ADJUSTMENT KNOB FIRST AND SNAP

OFF COVER. INDEX KNOB AND REINSTALL IN SAME

POSITION FOR WATER FILL.

MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY

INSERT PHILLIPS DRIVER IN ACCESS PORTS IN

MODULE. LOOSEN BOTH SCREWS. DISCONNECT

SHUT-OFF ARM. PULL MOLD FROM SUPPORT

ASSEMBLY.

SHUT-OFF ARM

PULL OUT FROM SUPPORT. REINSERT TO FULL

DEPTH.

MOLD AND HEATER

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.

BIMETAL

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEM-

BLY. PULL OUT RETAINING CLIPS WITH BIMETAL.

FILL CUP

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, AND SUPPORT ASSEM-

BLY. REMOVE EJECTOR BLADES AND SHUT-OFF

ARM. PULL FILL CUP FROM MOLD.

EJECTOR BLADES OR STRIPPER

REMOVE MODULE, MOTOR, SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.

WHEN REINSTALLING EJECTOR BLADES, REALIGN

“D” COUPLING WITH MODEL CAM.

26

Mold attachment screw access ports (2)

(Phillips)

Shut-off arm

Adjustment screw

Ice maker replacement parts list

When you place an order for a part, use the “Part Number,” not the “Key Number.”

Key

Number

13

14

15

16

9

10

11

12

5

6

7

8

1

3

4

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

Part

Number

628228

628356

627843

627788

627790

627796

627985

489322

628358

628258

489136

489276

627792

628256

2155021

489128

1115846

628366

627929

1115844

628229

628379

Description

Mold and Heater Assembly

Bearing and Inlet

Ejector

Ice Stripper

Support

Retainer, Thermostat (2)

Thermostat (also Order #542369 Cement Alumilastic)

Screw, (2) 10-32 x 49/64"

Module, Assembly

Motor

Screw, (2) 3-24 x 23/64"

Screw, (3)

Shut-off Arm

Wiring, Harness

Clip, Ice Maker

Screw, 8-32 x 27/64"

Cover

Module Assembly (Includes Items 10, 11, and 12)

Valve, Solenoid

Knob, Water

Bracket

Clip, Thermal Fuse

4

15

16 3

1

5

23

7

10

11 12

9 6

8

19

14

22

17

13

18

20

21

27

Ice maker replacement parts list (cont’d)

The following parts are not illustrated.

Optional parts are not included in this list.

Part

Number Description

939529 Ice Cube Pan

837142 Trim, Ice Cube Pan

1121997 Accessory Bag, Outside

*836489 Fitting, Water Tube

*1106508 Seal Gasket

*488645 Screw, 8 x 1/2"

*488649 Screw, 8-32 x 1/2"

*841707 Insert, Plastic Tube

*627854 Tube Assembly, Inlet Valve

*537588 Nut, Inlet Valve

*488292 Washer

*836074 Dampener

*510716 Tube Clamp

*488366 Tube Clamp

*488878 Tube Clamp

*549193 Clamp, Service Cord

*653499 Plastic Tube

*627018 Nut and Sleeve Assembly

*841707 Insert, Plastic Tube

**1121995 Accessory Bag, Inside

**489069 Screw, 8 x 1/2 "

**939027 Tube, Water Inlet

944811 Wiring Assembly, Ice Maker

* Components of Accessory Bag Outside.

** Components of Accessory Bag Inside.

PART NO. 2181913 Rev. A

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