Electronic 1008

MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Electronic 1008/1
MASTERING
YOUR
BERNINA®
BERNINA® Electronic 1008
Table of Contents
SECTION A
Pages 3-15
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
SECTION B
Pages 16-30
Let’s Start WIth The Basics
SECTION C
Pages 31-47
On The Edge
SECTION D
Pages 48-61
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
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MASTERING YOUR
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BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
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SECTION A
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Machine Set Up
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Storage of accessories
• Attach cords foot control and machine
• Power switch – light on/off function
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Extension table (optional)
Threading the Needle
• Side thread cutter – Owner’s manual pg.____
• After the needle is threaded, put the thread
under the presser foot
• Lower the presser foot
• Insert the thread into the cutter; it is cut to the
proper length to begin sewing
Presser Feet
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Importance of using the correct foot
• Stitch selection lever
• Overview of included presser feet
• Can also use one-piece BERNINA® presser feet
Needle Positions
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Five positions
Feed Dog
Owner’s manual pg. ____
Threads
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Types of thread
• Uses for each type of thread
Needles
Owner’s manual pg.____
Bobbins
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Removing the bobbin case
• Winding a bobbin
• Use bobbin thread cutter
• Clip the thread close to the case before
removing the bobbin
Threading the Upper Thread
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Two vertical spool pins – Owner’s manual pg.___
• Optional supplementary thread guide
• Optional BERNINA® thread stand
• Thread machine with the presser foot up until
ready to thread the needle
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Practical/Decorative Stitches
Owner’s manual pgs.____
• Stitches built into the machine
• Uses for the stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
• How to select stitches – Owner’s manual pgs.____
- selection lever
- red vs. green stitches
Straight Stitching
• Seam measuring – stitch plate marks – Owner’s
manual pg.____
- the following measurements are indicated on
the stitch plate: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, ¾”, and 1”
- the horizontal lines to the far back and the
line in front of the needle are 5/8” from needle
• Optional piecing guide attaches to the bed of
the machine.
• Right and left seam guides and Seam Guides
with Rulers are available as optional accessories
for the one-piece BERNINA® presser feet
• Straight stitch throat plate available
• Basting - Owner's manual pg.___
- maximum stitch length and loosened the
needle tension helps in removal of stitches
Topstitching/Edgestitching
Owner’s manual pgs.____
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Satin Stitches
• Thread bobbin case finger to adjust tension
• Can taper while sewing
• Stabilizer – important to the success of stitches
Changing the Light Bulb
Owner’s manual pg.____
Cleaning the Feed Dog
• Periodically remove thread fluff and fabric fuzz
which collects under the stitch plate. Refer to
manual for step-by-step instructions (pg.___).
Cleaning and Lubricating the Hook
• See Owner’s manual page ____ for step-by-step
cleaning and oiling instructions
Cleaning the Outside of the Machine
• Wipe with damp cloth. If needed, use a solution
of water and a few drops of liquid soap.
IMPORTANT: Never use oil, alcohol, or
solvents of any kind on any part of the
external surface of the machine.
Here’s an idea...Use your birthday
month as a reminder to have your
BERNINA® machine serviced. Take
it to an authorized BERNINA®
technician during the month
of your birthday and you’ll
never have to remember
when it was last serviced.
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THREADS
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any machine. Thread passes through
the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams, frayed thread, and/or needle
breakage. To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread must be considered for use with today’s
fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single ply. Domestic thread
fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – the number of single strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during stitching, causing the stitch to
appear slightly crooked. Poor quality threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into a single ply. Thread should
not untwist during stitching. This will cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and
weak spots in seams.
Right twist – most American threads are twisted to the right, causing some rolling.
This gives average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and imported threads are twisted to the left, giving better
than average stitch quality. Left twist resists rolling and makes a larger loop for the hook
point to enter, reducing skipped stitches.
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such
as Sulky’s rayons and metallics. Made in West Germany, these are left twist threads; Mettler and Isacord
threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of
thread towards you with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the typ eof material used to produce the thread. Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester 2 ply – such as Metrosene 100. Good for clothing construction on man-made,
natural or blended fabrics. Will tolerate heat up to 450° Fahrenheit. Also Isacord
embroidery thread – excellent for embroidery, very abrasion resistant.
• Polyester 3 ply cordonnet – topstitching or buttonhole twist – such as Mettler 30/3.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 60/2 – excellent for French Machine Sewing, delicate
machine embroidery, and darning.
• Cotton 2 ply – such as Mettler 30/2 – loose twist for a soft, shiny look in machine
embroidery, applique, and buttonholes.
• Cotton 3 ply – such as Mettler 50/3 – excellent for clothing construction on natural fibers.
Tighter twist than embroidery cotton thread and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton
thread stretches less than polyester.
• Rayon – a lustrous embroidery thread. Weaker than cotton, it is used for decorative work only.
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NEEDLES
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many “mechanical” problems and damage
to fabrics can be traced to a bent, damages, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any sewing
project, three things must be considered:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – small size for lightweight fabrics; larger needle for heavier fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from hook point; hook can’t enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make a stitch
Need To Know
• Needle should be changed every 4-6
hours of sewing. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but is one of the most crucial for getting
good results and keeping your machine
running well. Don’t let false economy
keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated
to glide in and out of fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the
groove on the front of the needle. If it
isn’t protected by the groove, a needle
with a larger groove should be used.
• Always make sure the needle is fully
inserted as high as possible when
installing a new one.
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SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES
Ball Point
70-90
Has a rounder point. 70 for
lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for
T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
Microtex
60-90
Sharp
(Schmetz)
Stretch
70-90
A stretch needle has a more
rounded point and a blue anticling coating which helps to
prevent skipped stitches in knits
and elastic. Sometimes used on
Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic.
Microfiber
(Lammertz)
Stretch
Double
Universal
2.5/75
4.0/75
Two ballpoint needles on one
shank; each needle has a large
scarf. Used for hemming and for
stitching on knit fabric.
60-110 A compromise between a sharp
and a ballpoint needle; can be
used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
100 & 110 – canvas
Double
Universal
1.6/70- Two needles attached to one
8.0/100 shank. Used for pintucks, hems,
and decorative work.
Triple
(Drilling)
3.0/90
Jeans
Jeans
Double
70-90
Three needles attached to one
shank. Used to create mock
smocking and other decorative
effects.
Has a sharp point and a shaft
that is less prone to flex. The
sharpness of the needles makes
it better for use on denim and
woven fabrics where a clean
stitch is desired.
4.0/100 Two Jeans needles attached to
one shank. For topstitching on
denim with heavy thread; can
also be used for decorative
stitching with metallic thread.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Quilting
Topstitch
A sharp point with a thin shaft.
60-90 corresponds to the weight
of the fabric; as the fabric gets
heavier, the number is higher.
assort’d The thin, tapers point of this
(75 & needle causes less damage to
fabric when seaming and cross
90)
seaming.
80-100
A sharp point with a large eye
and deep groove. For use with
heavier fabrics – the large
groove cradles heavier threads.
75-90
Sharp needle with a large eye
and groove; also has a coating
and a larger scarf. For use with
embroidery thread – prevents
shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye of an 80
or 90 needle.
Metafil
Double
3.0/75
Two Metafil needles attached to
one shaft; for double needle
work with embroidery threads.
Wing
100120
Sharp pointed needle with a noncutting wedge of metal on each
side. Needle makes a hole in the
fabric without cutting the threads
of the fabric. Used for decorative
and heirloom work, such as
hemstitching. Works best on
natural fibers or on the bias.
Double
Wing
100
One regular needle and one wing
needle attached to a single shaft.
Use the same as a Wing; makes
one large and one regular hole.
Leather
80-90
Point is a sharp cutting wedge.
Used for sewing leather only. Not
for vinyl or simulated leathers.
Embroidery
(Schmetz)
Metafil
(Lammertz)
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NEEDLE POSITIONS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven fabric, 4” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• The 1008 has 5 fixed needle positions.
• Fold fabric in half to 2” x 6”.
• Select Straight Stitch. The needle position can be set
to the left or right using the knob in the center of the
stitch width knob.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 1” mark on the
right side of the stitch plate.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the left.
• Sew another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all three positions have been sewn.
• Raise the needle out of the fabric. Leaving the fabric
under the foot – move the needle position back to
center.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one position to the right.
• Sew about 6 stitches and stop.
• Move the needle one more position to the right – sew
another 6 stitches and stop again.
• Repeat until all three positions have been sewn.
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SEAMING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Find the 5/8” guide line on the stitch plate.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together and
align them with the guide line.
• Sew a 5/8” seam on one 6” edge.
• Sew a 2” seam along the opposite edge.
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BASTING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 4” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Select Straight Stitch #1; adjust the length to 5mm
• Baste a 5/8” seam along one edge of the fabric.
Note: Loosening the top tension makes the stitches easier to remove.
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TOPSTITCHING/EDGESTITCHING
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 4” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Contrasting color
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Cut fabric in half to create 2 pieces each 2” x 6”.
• Sew two pieces together with a 5/8” seam on the 6” sides.
• Press the seam open.
• From the right side, position the blade of the foot in the ditch of the seam.
• Select Triple Straight Stitch #9/red.
• Move the needle position 1 place to the left (half left).
• Sew the length of the seam.
• Select the longest stitch length.
• Move the needle position 2 places to the right (far right).
• Start at the top of the seam as before.
• Sew down the length of the seam again.
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SECURING STITCHES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold each fabric piece in half to 1½” x 6”.
• Find the 5/8” seam line on the guide plate.
• Select Straight Stitch #1/green and sew a few stitches.
• Engage the Reverse Lever for about 3/8”; the machine will sew in reverse as long as the lever is engaged.
• Continue stitching the seam and secure the end in the same manner.
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SATIN STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 3” x 6” each
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Use stabilizer as needed.
• Select Zigzag Stitch #2/green. Change the stitch length to satin stitch and the stitch width to 5.5mm.
• Thread the bobbin thread through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
• Move the needle position all the way to the left.
• Position the raw edge of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the right side of the stitch plate).
• Sew down this edge about 1”. While continuing to sew, turn the stitch width knob to taper the stitch to
0mm. Then widen the stitch back to maximum. Repeat until the stitching reaches the end of the fabric.
• Position the fold of the fabric on the 3/8” line (on the left side of the stitch plate).
• Move the needle position all the way to the right and stitch along the right side of the fabric, tapering
and widening the stitching while sewing.
• Move the needle position to the center and stitch down the center of the fabric, tapering and widening
the satin stitch while sewing.
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WISH LIST
Care and Feeding of Your Machine
Hard Case
Slide-on Extension Table with Guide
Feet-ures
Edgestitch Foot #10
Stabilizers – Sampler Pack or type __________
type __________
Thread – Assortment or
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
Needles – Assortment or
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
size ____ and type ____
Needle Threader
Bobbins – Baker’s dozen
Spool Bobbin Holders
Magnetic Pin Cushion
Magnetic Bobbin Holder
Straight Stitch Plate
Seam Sealant
Extra Thread Stand
Scissors - 6” or 7” Dressmaker’s shears ____
4” or 5” Trimming scissors ____
Thread nips ____
Left guide (matches right guide included with machine)____
Right and Left Seam Guides with Rulers
Set of Magnifying Glasses
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MASTERING YOUR
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Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section B
Let’s Start With The Basics
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SECTION B
Let’s Start With The Basics
Seams
Triple Straight Stitch – SL 2-3mm
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Jeans Foot #8 prevents needle deflection
• Non-Stick Straight Stitch Foot #53
• This stitch sews strong seams on heavy
fabrics
Zigzag – SL1mm SW1.5mm
Owner’s manual pgs.____
Vari-Overlock – SL1mm SW4mm NP right
Owner’s manual pg. ____
• Can be used with double needle for a
decorative hem on knits
• Overlock Foot #2 prevents the seam from
rolling as it is being sewn
Double Overlock – SL2mm
Owner’s manual pg. ____
SW5mm
Oversewing Edges
Owner’s manual pg.____
Hems
Blind Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
• The Blind Hem Foot #5, along with the
blindstitch, produces a superior blind hem.
The zigzag part of the stitch is formed over
the guide on the foot, causing the stitch to
be slightly loose, so that the blind hem will
not pucker and does not form a tuck in the
fabric.
Hand Picked – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
Triple Zigzag – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.____
• This stitch is used for strong, visible hems
on firm, coarse fabrics such as denim and
canvas.
Double Needle – Feet-ures, Unit A pg.___
Flat Joining Seam - SL2mm SW4mm
Owner’s manual pg.___
Stitching Corners
• Use the 5/8” markings on stitch plate.
• Turn handwheel counter clockwise to sink
needle into fabric.
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Neckline Hem – Owner’s manual pg.____
Jeans – Feet-ures, Unit B pg.____
• Height Compensation Tool
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TRIPLE STRAIGHT STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Denim, 4” x 6”
90/14 Jeans
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise forming two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Triple Straight Stitch #9/red.
• Sew the two pieces together with a 5/8” seam allowance using Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
• Press the seam open.
• Change to Edgestitch Foot #10 and adjust the needle position to stitch through the seam allowance.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.
• With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, topstitch the length of the seam on both sides.
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ZIGZAG SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm knit – 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric piece in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6” each.
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green – SW 1mm and SL 0.5mm.
• Position the fabric to produce a 5/8” seam down one side.
• Stitch the seam.
• Clip one seam allowance in the middle.
• Press one part of the seam open and leave the other half closed, so the stitch is visible.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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VARI-OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Cotton Interlock, 4” x 6”
Ribbing, 2” x 4”
80/12 Univeral
All-purpose
Overlock Foot #2
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut an inside curve in one corner of the fabric to simulate a neckline.
• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #6/green; SW 4mm - 5mm and SL 1mm.
• Place folded ribbing along the curved edge of the fabric (ribbing and fabric, right sides together).
• Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch; stitch length and width can
be adjusted, if needed.
• Trim the sample and mount with the ribbing pressed to the finished position.
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DOUBLE OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Single Knit – 4” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Overlock Foot #2
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut the fabric in half lengthwise, creating two pieces, 2” x 6’ each.
• Select the Double Overlock Stitch #12/red.
• Guide the raw edge along the pin of the Overlock Foot.
• The right swing of the needle should go off the fabric edge.
• Trim the sample and mount.
Note: This is a good overlock seam for loosely knit fabrics and for cross
seams in other knits and jerseys.
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FLAT JOINING SEAM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Terrycloth – 2 pieces, 2” x 6” each
90/14 Universal
All-purpose to match color fo fabric
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Stretch Overlock stitch #11/red.
• Cut a 5/8” seam allowance off one piece of fabric along the long edge.
• Mark a line on the other piece of fabric, 5/8” from one long edge. This will be
the right-hand piece of fabric.
• Overlap the fabric edges left over right, aligning the left raw edge with the
drawn line on the right-hand piece.
• Stitch along the raw edge. Turn the fabric over and stitch along the remaining
raw edge.
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STITCHING CORNERS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firm fabric – 2 pieces, 5” x 5” each
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Straight Stitch #1/green.
• Place fabric pieces right sides together.
• Place the fabric under the foot with the top edge even with the horizontal line behind the foot.
• The right edge should be even with the 5/8” seam line.
• Sew until the bottom edge touches the horizontal line in front of the needle; stop with the needle
down.
• Pivot and continue sewing until you come to the next corner and do the same thing.
• Stitch only three sides of this sample.
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OVERSEWING EDGES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy Flannel – 3” x 6”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green.
• Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.
• Guide edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot.
• The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle and over the edge on the next stroke.
• Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should lie flat, not roll.
• Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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BLIND HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy Flannel – 6” x 7”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Reverse pattern Foot #1 and
Blind Hem Foot #5
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Finish one 6” edge of the fabric following the steps of the previous exercise.
• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.
• Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
• Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the raw edge.
• Select the Blindstitch #3/green (SW 3mm and SL 2.25mm); attach Blind Hem Foot #5.
• Fold hem back to the right side over the basting line.
• Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.
• Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.
• Mount the sample with the edges folded back as shown in the drawing.
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HAND PICKED HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight broadcloth – 6” x 7”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose
Blind Hem Foot #5
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Turn up a 1” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.
• Turn up the depth of the hem again and press.
• Fold the entire hem toward the right side of the garment, so that the garment fold is
almost even with the top edge of the hem. A scant 1/8” to 1/16” of hem edge should
be visible. This will ensure that both folds are caught by the blind hem pick.
• Place the fabric under the foot just as a traditional blind hem would be placed.
• Sew the hem with Blindstitch #3/green, making sure that the zigzag pick catches both
folds while the straight stitch falls off the edge and stitches in air forming a chain
along the upper hem edge.
• Press and mount the sample.
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TRIPLE ZIGZAG HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Firmly woven – 6” x 7”
90/14 Embroidery
30 wt. cotton embroidery
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric; press.
• Select the Triple Zigzag Stitch #10/red.
• Adjust stitch length and width as desired.
• From the right side of the fabric, stitch the hem in place, sewing about 1½” from the fold.
• From the wrong side, trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.
• Press and mount the sample.
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DOUBLE NEEDLE HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Cotton interlock – 6” x 7”
Double 3.0/80
All-purpose, 2 colors
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Turn up a 2” hem along one of the 6” edges and press.
• Insert a 3.0/80 double needle.
• Thread the needles with two different colors of thread.
• Place the folded edge of the fabric along the 1” guideline on the right side of the stitch plate.
• Select stitch #1/green; sew half of the hem.
Note: To be sure the needles will not strike the foot, turn the handwhell to “walk” the
machine through the first stitch. Narrow the width as needed to avoid breaking needles.
• Select stitch #3/green or experiment with similar stitches; stitch the remainder of the seam.
• Trim excess fabric from the wrong side of the hem.
• Check Feet-ures, Unit A for detailed information on working with Double and Triple needles.
Note: This is a good stitch to use when hemming T-shirts and pajamas. You can use
other stitches with a double needle for other types of fabrics.
• Press and mount the sample.
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JEANS HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Denim – 5” x 7”
100/16 or 110/18 Jeans
All-purpose
Jeans Foot #8 (optional accessory)
Note: Specially designed to sew over heavy seams and fabrics, the Jeans Foot #8 guides the
needle through heavy thicknesses and helps to eliminate needle breakage. It is also effective
for topstitching with buttonhole twist or cordonnet threads.
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Cut fabric in two pieces, 5” x 3½” each.
• Insert a Jeans needle and select stitch #1/green; adjust length to 3mm.
• Sew a 5/8” seam with right sides together.
• Press the seam to one side.
• Topstitch, using the edge of the foot along the seam as a guide, and stitching through the seam
allowances.
• Turn up the lower edge twice, about 3/8” each time.
• Topstitch the hem in place, about 1/8” from the upper edge of the hem.
• Press and mount the sample.
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WISH LIST
Let’s Start WIth The Basics
Presser Feet and Attachments:
Overlock Foot #2
Embroidery Foot #6
Jeans Foot #8
Edgestitch Foot #10
Straight Stitch Foot #13
Cut and Sew Attachment #80
Feet-ures
Double Needles
2.0mm
2.5mm
3.0mm
Jeans Needles
90/14
100/16
Double
Stitch Witchery - 5/8” roll
BERNINA Ironing System
Curved Hem Ruler
6” Sewing Gauge
Seam Pressing Stick
BERNINA Cutting Mat
BERNINA 14” Ruler
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MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section C
On The Edge
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SECTION C
On The Edge
Buttonholes
Owner’s manual pg.____
Feet-ures, Unit A
• Types and Uses
• Preparation
- proper stabilizers
- sometimes using two or more layers
- proper adhesion of iron-on stabilizers
• Positioning:
- marking
- full bust can be beginning point
- using spacing tape
- using Simpflex
• Measuring the Button:
- to determine length of buttonhole
• Grading Seams
- using applique scissors
• Height Compensation Tool
- keep foot level
• Tension Adjustments
• Testing:
- always use same fabric, thread and stabilizer
• Cutting Open:
- seam sealant
- block and cutter
• Tricks:
- wash-a-way stabilizer for high pile fabrics
- Stitch Witchery® for loose wovens or knits
• Corded Buttonholes:
- with gimp cord
- with threads
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
Sewing Buttons On
Owner’s manual page ____
Feet-ures, Unit D
• Universal Stitch
- regular
- decorative
- snaps, hooks, and charms
- tie a quilt
Edges
• Picot – Feet-ures, Unit D
• Shell
- blindstitch – Feet-ures, Unit A
- hemmer feet #68 or #69 – Feet-ures, Unit I
• Rolled and Whipped Edge – Feet-ures, Unit A
• Fine Edge – Feet-ures, Unit B
• Corded Edge – Feet-ures, Unit B
- for tucks
- for hems
• Designer Hem – Feet-ures, Unit B
Attaching Elastics
• Types
• Methods of applying
- turn under
- couching over
- lingerie
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BUTTONHOLES AND EYELETS
TYPES AND USES
X
STANDARD BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, trousers, bedlinens.
HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE
Fine to medium weight fabrics. Blouses, shirts, dresses, trousers. children’s and baby
clothes, doll clothes, heirloom work.
STRETCH BUTTONHOLE
All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk, and synthetic fibers.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK
Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK
Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK
Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers, leisure wear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK
Non-stretch firm fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORIZONTAL BARTACK
Firm, non-stretch fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.
STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE
For prestitching buttonholes and pocket openings. For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.
BUTTON SEW-ON PROGRAM
For flat buttons with 2 and 4 holes. For sewing on snaps, hooks, and charms.
NARROW ZIGZAG EYELET
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.
STRAIGHT STITCH EYELET
Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, other decorative work.
X available on the Electronic 1008
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BUTTONHOLE FEET
A number of buttonhole feet are available for BERNINA® sewing machines.
The descriptions below will help differentiate between the various feet.
BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3
The standard 5mm buttonhole foot.
®
Works with any BERNINA sewing machine
BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3B
A 5mm foot with a movable slide indicating
buttonhole length, making it easy to
stitch a series of identical buttonholes.
®
Works with any BERNINA sewing machine.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3A
Automatic foot for machines with a 5mm and
9mm feed system. “A” indicates an “automatic”
foot, with a light sensor for counting stitches.
Works with models 1130-1530 and 150-170QPE.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® 1/10/02
BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C
The standard 9mm buttonhole foot.
“C” indicates a “coded” foot, with a light
sensor that allows 9mm wide stitching.
Works with models 1630 and artista 180.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT #3C
The automatic buttonhole foot for
machines with a 9mm feed system,
indicated by the letter “C”.
Works with models 1630 and artista 180.
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE FOOT WITH SLIDE #3A
Combines the handy slide measuring system of
Buttonhole Foot #3B with the electronic sensor of the
older Automatic Buttonhole Feet #3A and #3C.
Works with models 135 PE/145 and 150-180.
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STABILIZERS
Tear-Away Stabilizer: The most commonly used type of stabilizer, designed to provide
temporary support of stitching. Placed on the wrong side of the project and carefully
pulled away once stitching is complete. Available in three weights – heavy, medium, and
light. Multiple lightweight layers may be preferable to one heavy layer, as they are easier
to remove.
Cut-Away Stabilizer: The most widely used stabilizer in the commercial market. Does
not break down under dense stitching, due to the high fiber – rather than paper – content.
Excess stabilizer is trimmed away after stitching (leave approximately ¼” of stabilizer
around the edges).
Web/Poly-Mesh Type Stabilizer: A specially formulated cut-away stabilizer developed
for use behind lightweight or light-colored fabrics.
Water-Soluble Stabilizer: Used for backing and topping, in single or multiple layers.
Available in two weights. Excellent for decorative stitching and cutwork as there are
no remnants of stabilizer left after removal (it dissolves). As a topping, it keeps stitches
from being lost in heavily napped fabrics such as velvet and corduroy.
Knit Fusible Interfacing: A very lightweight, flexible interfacing sometimes used as a
stabilizer, it gives permanent support (as an underlining) to a fabric. Perfect for plackets,
garment edges, under buttonholes, and anywhere extra body and stability are needed.
Woven Fusible Interfacing: This interfacing is sometimes used as a stabilizer and is
generally cut on the bias to provide better drape. Gives a firmer hand or finish than knit
or non-woven interfacings. Used for lapels, facings, and anywhere a great deal of extra
body and stability are needed.
Iron-On Stabilizer: A non-woven product similar to paper. Perfect for knits, this tearaway stabilizer is temporarily bonded to the fabric, inhibiting the tendency of the material
to stretch.
Heat Removable Stabilizer: Woven from strands of fiber that are burned away at a low
temperature, heat removable stabilizers are perfect for heirloom stitchery.
Liquid/Spray Stabilizers: Wonderful for sheer fabrics from which all stabilizer must be
removed after stitching, these products are painted or sprayed onto the fabric. Several
light applications of spray stabilizer are preferable to one heavy application.
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MANUAL BUTTONHOLES
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold one piece of fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.
• Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.
• Mark two horizontal lines, running between the fold and the drawn line, spaced about 2” apart.
• Set the buttonhole knob at position #1.
• Adjust stitch length to satin (0.5).
• Position the foot over the first line and place the fold on the 5/8” line behind the presser foot.
• Sew the first side of the buttonhole.
• Stop at the drawn line with the needle out of the fabric.
• Turn the buttonhole knob to position #2.
• Sew back to the beginning of the first bead and stop.
• Turn the buttonhole knob to position #3.
• Sew the bartack and the right bead; stop and touch quick reverse.
• Sew the top bar tack. The fourth position sews the second bead, the fifth position sews the bottom
bartack and the sixth position sews the securing stitches.
• Sew a second buttonhole on the second line.
• Cut one buttonhole open.
• Trim and mount the sample.
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Auto Buttonhole Foot
with Slide #3A
Standard Buttonhole
Foot #3
CORDED BUTTONHOLES
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
Two 10” lengths of gimp cprd
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3 and
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B (optional)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”. Press and insert the stabilizer.
• Mark a line 1½” from the fold and running the length of the fabric.
• Mark two horizontal lines between the fold and the line, spaced about 2” apart.
• Set the buttonhole knob at position #1.
• Place the fold so it is on the 5/8” line behind the presser foot.
• Lower the needle into the fabric on the first line.
• Fold one piece of cord in half; place loop around prong of the Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B.
Note: The cord strengthens the buttonhole on wovens and prevents it from stretching on knits.
The thickness of the cord depends on the fabric to be sewn. Suitable cords are perle cord #8,
thick hand sewing thread, gimp cord, or crochet cotton.
• Sew the buttonhole.
• Pull the loop of gimp cord snug and cut tails close to bartack.
Note: On knits, pull to back and tie a knot.
• Sew another corded buttonhole using the optional Buttonhole Foot #3 on the second line.
• The cord may come away from the prong of this foot. Therefore it is advisable to hold the loop of the gimp
down lightly with the finger.
• Pull the cord ends to the back with a large hand sewing needle and tie.
• Trim and mount sample.
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BUTTON SEW-ON STITCH
Fabric:
Stabilizer:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Heavy flannel, 6” x 6”
1 piece, 3” x 6”
90/14 Embroidery
30 weight cotton embroidery
Button Sew-On Foot #18 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select Universal Stitch #4/green; adjust width as needed.
• Lower the feed dogs.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6”; press. Insert the stabilizer.
Notes: - You can sew buttons on to stay!
- A low shank can be made for dresses and blouses or a high shank
can be made for heavier fabrics such as coats and blazers.
- Use the Button Sew-On Foot #18 to sew on waistband closures,
hook-and-eye fasteners, snaps, curtain rings, and charms.
Technique #1
• Select Universal Stitch #4/green set up as above.
• Use a glue stick to position a button in place.
• Adjust the pin on Foot #18 to the highest position for a long shank.
• Check the distance between the holes of the button by turning the hand wheel.
• Adjust the stitch width if necessary.
• Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.
Technique #2
• Using the lowest shank setting, attach a charm, a length of ribbon, and a hook-and-eye to the same
fabric.
• Trim threads close and mount the sample.
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PICOT EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight single knit cotton, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch #6/green - SW 4-5mm and SL 1.5mm.
• Fold under one 6” edge about ½” and press.
• Place fabric to the left and position it under the foot so that the stitch, when it swings to the right,
will just pass over the folded edge.
• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.
• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from where
the picot edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the picot has
been stitched.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This stitch is suitable only for fine, soft fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.
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SHELL EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Blindstitch #3/green -SW 2.5mm - 5mm and SL 1.5mm - 2mm. The longer the stitch
length, the larger the shells.
• Fold under one 6” edge about ½” and press.
• Place fabric to the right and position it under the foot so that the stitch, when it swings to the
left, will just pass over the folded edge.
• On knit fabrics the surplus can be trimmed from the wrong side close to the stitch.
• On woven fabrics it is advisable to first sew a row of small zigzag stitches about ¼” from
where the shell edge will be. Then you will be able to trim close to these stitches after the
edge is finished.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This stitch is suitable for fine, fabrics and is ideal for lingerie and nightwear.
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ROLLED AND WHIPPED EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Buttonhole Foot #3
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Clean one 6” edge of “whiskers”
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green - SW 2.5 and SL 1 or less.
• Select the left needle position.
• Loosen the top tension if necessary.
• Place cut edge of fabric between the center and right toes of the presser
foot and sew.
Notes:
- The left swing of the needle should be in the fabric, while the right
swing falls off of the right edge of the fabric.
- As the needle swings left, it should roll the fabric into a tiny rolled edge.
- The finer the fabric, the finer the needle and thread used.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This edge finish is used on a single thickness of fine lightweight fabrics.
It is also use as a seam finish or as an edge on ruffles, hems etc.
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FINE EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Batiste, 6” x 4”
70/10 Universal
60 wt. needle and bobbin
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green - SW 2 and SL 1.
• Select the left needle position.
• Fold under ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.
• Place the fabric right side upper most, to the left of the guide on the foot and sew the edge.
• When completed, trim away surplus fabric from the wrong side, close to the stitch.
• Mount the sample.
Note: Reverse Pattern Foot #1 can be used - settings as above but use center needle position.
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CORDED EDGE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”
Pearl Crown Rayon cord
80/12 Universal
To match cord
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
Owner’s manual pg.____
• Fold under a ½” hem allowance on one 6” edge and press.
• Place the folded edge, right side up, against the left side of the center blade.
• Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green - SW 2 and SL 1 or adjust as needed.
• Adjust the needle position so the stitch falls on the folded edge.
• The right swing of the needle should barely miss the edge of the fold, stitching in air.
• Sew 2 or 3 stitches and stop with the needle down.
• Raise the foot, insert the cord under the foot from the right, against the needle.
• Pull the cord up through the center slot of the foot and hold it against the left side of the guide.
• Continue stitching - the cord will feed into the zigzag stitch.
• Trim the excess fabric from the wrong side.
• Mount the sample.
Note: Cord can be a variety of types - Pearl Crown Rayon works well.
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DESIGNER HEM
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 6” x 4”
Pearl Crown Rayon cord
80/12 Sharp
All-purpose sewing thread
Edgestitch Foot #10 (optional accessory)
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select the Straight Stitch #1/green.
Select the left needle position.
Turn the raw edge under 3/8” and press.
Stitch with the fold against the left side of the guide on the presser foot.
Trim away seam allowance as close to stitching as you can get.
Turn the first folded edge under again tightly and place the new fold against the left side
of the guide on the foot.
• Stitch again from the wrong side of the fabric as in the first step.
• A successful hem will have two parallel lines of stitching on the wrong side of
the hem and one showing on the right side.
• Trim and mount the sample.
This is a very narrow two-step hem, easily sewn on straight or bias grains.
Works great on sheer fabric.
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ATTACHING ELASTIC LACE
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Nylon tricot, 6” x 4”
9” of elastic lace
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select the Running Stitch #7/green.
Adjust stitch length to 1mm.
Position the elastic wrong side down on the right side of the tricot along one of the 6” edges.
Leave a tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”.
Position the elastic so the stitching is at the bottom edge of the elastic lace.
Stretch the elastic lace gently, as it is being sewn.
After stitching, trim the surplus tricot from the wrong side of the elastic lace, close to the
stitching.
• Mount the sample.
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TURNED UNDER ELASTIC
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lycra - cotton or nylont, 6” x 5”
9” of cotton swimwear elastic, ½” wide
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing thread
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
Select Zigzag Stitch #2/green - SW 2mm and SL 2mm.
Position the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric, along one 6” edge.
Allow a 2” tail of elastic to extend beyond the fabric.
Using the tail of elastic at the back of the presser foot for a “handle”, stretch the elastic
a bit to simulate the leg of an exercise leotard or swimsuit.
Note: This is the same procedure used to do a turned waistband, using wider elastic.
• Sew the elastic to the fabric keeping the edge of the elastic and the edge of the fabric together.
• If stopping midway, place the needle down to hold the elastic and fabric in place.
• Fold the elastic to the wrong side and overstitch the elastic from the right side using Running
Stitch #7/green with a length of 1mm.
• Adjust stitch length if elastic stretches out as it is sewn.
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WISH LIST
On The Edge
Presser Feet:
Edgestitch Foot #10
Embroidery Foot #6
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B
Button Sew-on Foot #18
Feet-ures
Gimp or Pearl Crown Rayon
Stitch Witchery - roll
Water-soluable stabilizer
Buttonhole Space Tape
Buttonhole Placement Gauge - Simpflex ruler
½” Drafting Tape
Marking Pens/Pencils
Applique Scissors - for grading seams
Height Compensation Tool
Seam Sealent
Glue Stick
Buttonhole Cutter and Block Set
Double Needles
Cotton elastics
Accessory Box
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MASTERING YOUR
®
BERNINA
Electronic 1008
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section D
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
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SECTION D
GATHER IT UP AND TUCK IT DOWN
Gathering
• Gathering With A Basting Stitch
- Lengthen stitch all the way
- Tighten top tension for easier removal
• Gathering Over A Single Cord
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit B
- Embroidery Foot #6 with stitch #2
• Elastic Thread In Bobbin Case
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit H
- Use Black Latch bobbin case
• Narrow Casing Elastic
- Refer to Feet-ures, Unit A
- Open Embroidery Foot #20 with stitch #2
• Gathering Foot #16
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit D
- gathering a single layer
- gathering to a flat piece
- short stitch length for easing
• Ruffler Attachment #86
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit J
Tucks
• Pintuck Feet and Double Needles
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F
- which feet go with which needle
- how to thread a double needle
- how to use grooves in feet
• Corded Pintucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit A
- straight tucks
- gimp hole
- turning corners
• Pleats vs Tucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit C
- Edgestitch Foot #10
- Reverse Pattern Foot #1
• Large Tucks and Pleats
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit D
- Quilting/Seam Guide
- Zipper Foot with Guide #14
- Guide Bars with Rulers
- Piecing Guide
• Decorative Tucks
- refer to Feet-ures, Unit F
- sewn with decorative stitches vs straight
- corded edges
- lace inserted
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GATHERING WITH A BASTING STITCH
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern #1
Trim all 4 edges of fabric piece with a wavy rotary cutter.
Use all-purpose sewing thread top and bottom.
Select Straight Stitch #1/green; adjust length to 5mm.
Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.
Tie the threads at the beginning to secure and gather the sample up to 6”.
Notes:
- Use a fine darning thread; it is easier to remove after a seam has been sewn.
- To secure basting stitches, sew a few normal length straight stitches at the beginning
and end of the seam.
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GATHERING OVER A SINGLE CORD
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
18” of cord
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Embroidery Foot #6 (optional accessory)
Trim all four edges of sample fabric before beginning.
Thread the cord through the hole in Foot #6, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.
Select the Zigzag Stitch #2/green - SW 2.5 and SL 2-2.5..
Stitch 5/8” from one 12” edge.
Sew over the cord.
Secure the cord at the beginning and then pull it to gather the sample to 6”.
Notes:
- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates thread breakage and allows better
control of gathering.
- Drop the feed dog and sew a bartack at the beginning and end of cord for strength.
- Do not sew through cording.
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ELASTIC THREAD IN THE BOBBIN
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Other:
Rayon Challis - 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Elastic thread (bobbin)
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Black Latch Bobbin Case (optional)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
A Black Latch bobbin case is suggested.
Wind elastic thread on the bobbin.
Place in bobbincase and adjust tension if necessary.
Select Straight Stitch #1/green - SL 4mm-5mm, center needle position, top tension 7-9.
Draw guidelines on the fabric, spacing them evenly apart.
Sew from the right side of the fabric.
Keep rows flat as sewing.
When finished, steam press the sample, holding the iron over the fabric with the elastic
side up. Do not touch the iron to the fabric.
• Leave the fabric flat until dry.
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NARROW CASING ELASTIC
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 9” x 4”
12” of 1/8” or ¼” cotton elastic
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
•
•
•
•
Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
Select the Universal Stitch #4/green - adjust width to clear the elastic.
Measure and mark the elastic for amount needed. Allow a 2” tail at both ends.
Draw a line on the wrong side of the fabric where the elastic is to go (this could be the line on a
pattern where a casing is suggested).
• Place the elastic over the line and under the foot and needle - sew a few straight stitches backward
and forward to secure the elastic.
• Stretch the elastic gently to give the fullness desired.
• When you reach the other end, secure in the same manner as the beginning.
• Even out the gathers.
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GATHERING FOOT #16
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
•
•
•
•
Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Wide Gathering Foot #16 (optional accessory)
Trim all four edges of the sample fabric before beginning.
Select the Straight Stitch #1/green - lengthen to 5mm.
Place fabric to be gathered under the foot.
Guide the fabric, keeping the raw edges even with the right edge of the foot, or use the seam
lines on the throat plate.
Notes:
- There are three things that effect the amount of gathers:
1. Fabric Weight - The lighter weight the fabric, the easier to gather.
2. Tension - Increased upper tension will increase the amount of gathering.
3. Stitch Length - The longer the stitch length, the tighter the gathers.
- Use the basting stitch or the long stitch function to increase gathers in heavier weight fabrics
such as woolens and corduroys.
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RUFFLER
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4”
80/12 Universal
All-purpose sewing
Ruffler Attachment #86 (optional accessory)
• Trim fabric with wavy rotary cutter before sewing.
• Select the Straight Stitch #1/green - SL 1mm-5mm. The longer the stitch length, the deeper
the pleat.
• Needle position is center.
• Set the adjustment lever on the attachment at 1.
• Place the fabric to be ruffled between the two blades, snugging it against the edge of the
seam guide slot, making sure it is slightly beyond the needle.
• Lower the foot and begin sewing.
• If gathers are too deep, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise; if too shallow, turn the
screw clockwise.
Note: Loosening the needle tension to 3-4 will allow some subsequent
adjustment of the fullness.
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PINTUCKS AND DOUBLE NEEDLES
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 6” x 4”, starched
Double (size should correspond to foot)
All-purpose sewing
Pintuck Foot #30, #31, #32, or #33 (optional accessories)
• Select the desired presser foot and corresponding double needle:
- Pintuck Foot #30 - 3 groove - 4mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #31 - 5 groove - 3mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #32 - 7 groove - 2mm needle
- Pintuck Foot #33 - 9 groove - 1.6 needle
• Insert the double needle and thread with two different colors.
• Select the straight stitch #1/green - SL 1.75mm-2mm.
• Sew at a slower speed and test the movement of the needle. You want to be sure it doesn’t hit the
presser foot.
• Top tension can be tightened to create more dimension.
• Start sewing in one corner and meander across the fabric.
• Position the previously sewn tuck in the groove of the foot and sew 6 more rows evenly spaced
across the fabric, as desired.
• Trim, press and mount the sample.
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CORDED PINTUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Lightweight cotton, 5” x 5”, starched
Gimp Cord
Double 3.0/80
All-purpose sewing
5 Groove Pintuck Foot #31 (optional accessory)
• Thread the cord through the hole in the needle plate.
Note: Cord should be colorfast and shrinkproof.
• Thread machine - same thread in both needles and the bobbin.
• Sew four random corners.
Turning Corners:
- When turning a corner it is not possible, with a double needle, to turn
completely in one operation.
- Sew to corner; needle in fabric, drop feed dogs.
- Turn ½ way, make 1 stitch, place needles in fabric, turn remainder of corner.
- Raise feed dogs and continue.
• Sew 2 points as on a leaf or star.
Turning Points
- Sew to corner; needle up.
- Pivot work carefully and lower needles back into same place; needles
have changed sides.
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PLEATS vs TUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 8” x 5”
80/12 Universal
All-Purpose
Reverse Pattern #1
Edgestitch #10 (optional accessory)
Reverse Pattern Foot #1:
• Starting at the left edge and working across the 8” width, draw 4 lines for folding and
pressing. The first 2 lines are 2” apart, second 2 lines are 1¼” apart.
Note: By placing the fold even with the right edge of the foot and placing the needle
position all the way to the left to start, it is possible to get 9 different sizes pleats/tucks.
• Using Straight Stitch #1/green, sew the first tuck, on the first line, with needle position all the
way to the left.
• Second tuck, on second line, with needle position all the way to the right.
- Each position makes about a 1mm difference.
Edgestitch Foot #10:
• Place the fold of the third pleat to the left of the center blade - right next to it.
• Move the needle position all the way to the left and sew.
• Position the fold of the last pleat in the same manner. Move the needle position to half left
and sew.
- Very small tucks/pleats are possible with this foot.
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LARGE TUCKS/PLEATS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 10” x 4”
80/12 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery
Zipper Foot with Guide #14 (optional accessory)
Zipper foot #14 has a movable guide with 9 markings which ensure precise sewing of
a variety of different size tucks.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Select stitch #1/green - SL 2-5mm.
Determine fold line of tuck. Fold on this line and press.
Adjust the guide on the foot for the widest tuck possible.
Place fabric under foot, positioning fold of tuck under the lip of the guide.
Adjust Needle Position to correspond with notch on guide.
Stitch tuck, allowing folded edge of fabric to feed into lip of guide.
The optional Seam/Quilting Guide when attached to a one-piece foot, can create a pleat up to 2¼”
wide. Note: A left guide is available; also available is a set of guides with a ruler attached; they can
be used to create pleats up to 4” wide.
• Determine fold line of tuck. Fold on this line and press.
• Attach the guide to the foot and adjust for the widest tuck possible.
• Place fabric under foot, positioning the guide along the fold of the tuck.
• Adjust Needle Position to correspond with notch on guide.
• Stitch tuck, allowing the guide to ride on the folded edge of the fabric.
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DECORATIVE TUCKS
Fabric:
Needle:
Thread:
Presser Foot:
Medium weight cotton, 8” x 4”
80/12 Embroidery
30 wt. Cotton Embroidery,
Metallic, and matching cord
Depends on technique
•
•
•
•
•
Draw 4 lines about ¼” apart, across the width of the fabric.
On the first line - create a tuck, about ¼”, using a decorative stitch.
On the second line - sew a ¼” tuck using a metallic thread with a straight stitch.
Cord the edge of this tuck with a metallic cord as in Section C - Corded Edge.
On the third line create an inverted tuck with lace inserted into it.
- Place the edge of the lace against the drawn line, on the right side, and baste in place.
- Fold the fabric over the lace and press.
- Using Edgestitch Foot #10, place the pressed fold against the left side of the center blade move needle position to the left enough to catch the lace; stitch to the left of the basting line.
- Open out and press again.
• On the fourth line insert the lace with the tuck.
- Fold wrong sides together and press the last tuck.
- Place the edge of the lace in from the fold a scant ¼”.
- Using Foot #37 - the ¼” foot - stitch a tuck, catching the lace as you sew.
- Press the tuck toward the lace.
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WISH LIST
Gather It Up and Tuck It Down
Presser Feet and Attachments:
Embroidery Foot #6
Edgestitch Foot #10
Zipper Foot With Guide #14
Wide Gathering Foot #16
Open Embroidery Foot #20
Pintuck Feet
#30 - 3 groove
#31 - 5 groove
#32 - 7 groove
#33 - 9 groove
Patchwork Foot #37
Ruffler Attachment #86
Feet-ures
Double Needles
1.6mm
2.0mm
2.5mm
3.0mm
4.0mm
Guide Bar Set with Rulers
Elastic thread
Gimp cord
Extra Bobbincase
Accessory Box
GooGone
Sewing Iron
Metallic Thread and Cord
Wavy Rotary Cutter
Ruler
Cutting Mat
Spray Sizing
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