69565

69565

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Knowing

Your

Sewing

Machine

Identifying

Connecting

Parts .................................

Machine ..............................

Threading - Bobbin ..............................

Top Thread ........................................

1 - 2

3

4 - 5

6

Using the Controls

Top Tension Control ...........................

Adjusting Bobbin Tension ......................

Stitch Length Control ............................

Stitch Width Control .............................

Reverse Stitch Control ..........................

Feed Dog Control .................................

Special Stitch Dial ...........................

Pressure Regulator ...............................

Sewing Light ......................................

Seam Guides ......................................

Accessories

Needles .............................................

Needle, Thread, Fabric Chart ..................

Presser Feet ........................................

Buttonhole Guide Feet ..........................

Zigzag and Straight Stitching

Plate .................................................

Needle

7 - 8

9

10

10

11

11

12- 14

15

16

17

22

18

19

20

21

Starting to Sew .....................................

Garment Construction Stitches

Straight Stitching

Zigzag Stitching

................................

..................................

Stretch Stitching ............................

23

24

25

26 - 28

Special Finishing Stitches

Satin Stitching,

Buttonhole

Appliqueing

Making

...................

.........................

29

30 - 32

Button Sewing, Bar Tacking ...................

Blind Hemming ..................

: ...........

33

34 - 35

Zipper Application ................................

36

Special Edge Stitch, Mending, Darning ..... 37

Checking Performance Problems .........

39 - 40

Caring for the

Machine

Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ................

Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ....................

Oiling Underside ....................................

Oiling Face Cover Plate ...........................

Parts List ........................................

41

42

43

44

45 - 46

,--_1.

Knowing Your Sewing

Machi

FRONT VIEW

@

®

®

®

®

®

®

@

_

(_'

1

2.

3.

4.

5.

.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Accessory Box

Hinged Extension

Needle Plate

Zigzag Stitching Plate

Presser Foot

Thread Guide

Thread Guide

Thread Tension Regulator

Thread Guide

Face Cover Plate

11. Thread Guide

12. Take-up Lever

13. Top Thread Tension Control

14. Threading Path

15.

Special Stitch Dial

16.

Stitch Width Control

17.

Reverse Stitch Control

18.

Stitch Length Control

19.

Nomenclature Plate

@

@

@

©

-@

r

BACK VIEW

@

®

@

@

@

®

/

\

7

.@

@

@

@

.@

20.

Light and Power Switch

21.

Connector

22.

Hand Wheel

23.

Bobbin Winder Shaft

24.

Bobbin Winder Latch

25.

Thread Spool Pin

26.

Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

27.

Thread Guide

28.

Presser Foot Lever

29.

Thread Cutter

30.

Needle Clamp Screw

31.

Feed Dogs

2

CONNECTING MACHINE

%

®

®

®

®

1.

Lift hinged extension at the left side of machine bed-plate.

2.

For more sewing space, tip the bed plate cover up by pushing right edge as shown in Fig. 2.

Turn the accessory box toward you as shown in Fig. 2.

3.

Fig.

3.

shows the machine ready to sew with all the extensions in place for maximum sewing space.

4.

Push the plug onto three-prong connector at the back of machine column.

5.

Plug machine cord into any 110-

120 volt wall outlet.

Turn on power by pushing light and power switch.

6.

Pull up spool pin stored at top of machine.

3

WINDING THE BOBBIN

®

®

®

®

.

,

,

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown in Fig. 1.

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin and place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin, fitting the notch on the bobbin over locking stud on the shaft as shown in Fig. 2.

Push bobbin winder latch against bobbin until it clicks.

4.

Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob as shown in

Fig. 4. Start machine, holding onto end of thread.

When bobbin is slightly filled, release end of thread.

5.

When bobbin is full, winding mechanism stops.

6.

Push in hand wheel or turning clutch knob to return to stitching position.

Remove bobbin.

4

_B

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

,j i_

\

.

k

,.

I

®

®

®

®

®

®

5

1. To remove bobbin case from the shuttle, raise needle to its highest position.

2.

Open bed plate cover, and remove accessory box.

,

Pull open latch of bobbin case.

4.

Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle.

.

Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown.

7.

.

Pull thread through slot of case as shown.

Pull thread under tension spring.

8.

Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch.

Case should lock into place when latch is released.

.

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn.

Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.

THREADING OF TOP THREAD

Model 1050

d_

_ _

®

(_

Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045

(_/

®

6

TOP TENSION CONTROL

Model 1050

Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045

7

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension.

It consists of discs between which the thread passes.

The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of the control.

The higher the number, the tighter the tension.

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension.

The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.

upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of

The the required fabric, tension numbers depends of layers of fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment.

To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.

ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS

A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.

(_ Upper thread too tight

Decrease Tension

(_ Upper thread too loose

Increase Tension

8

9

ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS

Bobbin tension.

tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads.

them as indicated on Page 9.

it may be necessary to

Be sure to balance

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screwdriver.

DECREASE TENSION

Turn Counter Clockwise.

INCREASE TENSION

Turn Clockwise.

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control located on the right side of the machine regulates the length of the stitch you select.

THE HIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.

The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.

A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.

The middle range of the control is the 10-1 2 stitch per inch range which is the most commonly used.

A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting - 6 stitches per inch.

The marking _ on this control is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in Satin Stitching.

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

I m

ilmll m

m

This control regulates the width of the stitch you select.

THE HIGHER THE

NUMBER - THE WIDER THE STITCH.

You may vary your zigzag stitch width by adjusting this control to the setting you desire.

This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching.

10

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse.

is called back tacking.

Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams

This firmly and prevents raveling.

When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise and hold there during sewing.

The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and seam will be fastened.

FEED DOG CONTROL

The feed dog control is located on the machine behind accessory box.

There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself.

When the control is pushed down, the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric.

For most of your sewing, turn the control to the up position.

up).

(Feed dog

11

SPECIAL STITCH DIAL

There are certain types of utility stitches you

will

use often in your home sewing.

This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand.

THE RED DOT SETTING

The Red Dot setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitchingeither straight or simple zigzag.

When the stitch width is set on the Red

Dot and the Special Stitch Dial on the Red Dot setting, you may straight stitch.

For a simple zigzag stitch, adjust the stitch width control to the desired setting, with the dial remaining on the Red Dot setting.

12

SPECIAL MENDING STITCH BLIND STITCH SETTING

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category.

For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears.

Use of the stitch setting shown is given in more detail in the next section under Mending.

Blind hems are made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above.

For more detailed instructions in blind hemming, see next section of the book.

SPECIAL EDGE STITCH

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH

j .

The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing, combining fabrics and so on.

Details on the use of this stitch are given in the nextsection.

The setting illustrated is used for special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require stretch.

See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitch.

13

OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH SMOCKING STRETCH STITCH

Overcast stretch stitching is made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above.

Detaileg instructions are given in the next section of the book.

You can make smocking stretch stitching by setting the dial to the setting indicated above.

See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches.

STRETCH STITCH SETTING BUTTONHOLE SETTING

I

Stretch stitching is easily done by setting the dial to the setting indicated above.

Details on the use of this stitch are given in the next section of the book.

The three settings shown above are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole.

Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book.

14

OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF SEWING MACHINE

In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045

Model 1050

Fig. 1

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator.

pressure on the presser foot.

(See Fig.

1 above).

To increase the pressure, obtained.

This will release the push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is

Fig. 2

The pressure on the presser foot is regulated by turning the dial of this regulator which is situated in face cover plate (See Fig. 2 above). To increase the pressure, turn the dial clockwise, until a suitable pressure is obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric.

If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure.

Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

15

SEWING LIGHT

The light and power switch shown in

Fig. 1 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light.

In order to operate the machine, this switch must be on. To turn on the light, depress the upper side of the switch.

If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally.

The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown.

To replace the bulb, turn light off, and swing the face cover plate open.

Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.

Remove bulb from socket.

Push in new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

16

17

Cornering Guide

SEAM

GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric.

EXTENDING

THE

ABOVE

GUIDE

THE

LINE

RIGHT

SIDE OF THE NEEDLE

THE "ALL IMPORTANT"

LINE.

PLATE

5/8" SEAM

IS

The corneripg guides are convenient when

turning

a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge.

See next section of this book for directions.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the lever can raise the foot beyond the normal

"up" position.

This is also an aid in changing your presser feet.

NEEDLES

Use KENMORE needles.

The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric (See next page).

Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt point.

Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle.

Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length.

You will find among your accessories a ..e x_:_:ll[,_:"_with blue shank.

This special needle is to be used when sewing certain knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics.

If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use o x_:l-:l_[,_:.. .

i

I

PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

Loosen the needle clamp screw.

Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar.

When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver.

!'" l_l

Flat side II away

V from you.

''_

J j

I II

II I

I

Fig. 1

18

NEEDLE,

THREAD, FABRIC CHART

THREAD SIZE

NEEDLE

SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Wrap

Polyester Synthetic

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetic

Silk A

9orll

14

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercerized

Heavy Duty

Polyester Synthetic

Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Synthetic

Silk A

14 or 16

18

FABRIC

Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity,

Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,

Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,

Taffetta, Voile, Organdy

Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton

Blends, Percale, Gingham,

Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,

Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,

Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy,

Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool

Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets,

Leather

Heavy Weight : Coatings,

Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy

Twills, Canvas

16, 18 or

"Q NEEI)LE",= Silk Buttonhole Twist

Polyester Synthetic

50 Mercerized Cotton

"'0 SET",.

I

("Q NEEDLE",.

and

"Q FOOT",.

)

Decorative Top-stitching on all

Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics:

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon

Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,

Spandex, Cire Tricot

19

25

-,.

_ _

•,,,

{,!-,

, _ "_<,J n

Corned g Guide

FASTENING A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.

Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.

Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam.

Release control and complete seam.

When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam.

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown.

Raise the presser foot, turn fabric.

New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate.

Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.

ZIGZAG STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4

Stitch Length Control - Any Number

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag needle plate.

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine.

This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole, monogram, and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine.

Simply use the settings indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag.

Follow directions given in the following pages for more specific uses.

STRETCH STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics.

These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

A

1. Straight Stretch

2.

RickRack Stretch

3. Smocking Stretch

4.

Elastic Stretch

5.

Overcast Stretch

|

|

db

\/X

/\/

\/

/\)

/ \/

\/\

/\/

\/\

/\/

\/\

/\/

\

/\

®®

®

"-4

®

STRAIGHT STRETCH

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _t_J

Stitch Width ControlRed Dot

Stitch Length Control - 8

Straight Stitch Foot

Use straight stitching plate.

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch.

Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming.

The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric.

Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch.

Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

26

27

RICK-RACK STRETCH

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - III

Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4

Stitch Length Control - 8

Zigzag Presser Foot

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zig zag stitch.

This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well.

SMOCKING STRETCH

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Step 1.

Make a straight line of gathers across

Step 2.

the fabric that you wish to smock.

Special Stitch Dial - 8_

Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4

Stitch Length Control - 8

Zigzag Presser Foot

With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers. The design will be a series of small diamonds.

When smocking a garment, the stitching should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment.

OVERCAST STRETCH

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial -

Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4

Stitch Length Control - 8

Zigzag Presser Foot

This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear.

It is used for seams of 3/8" to

1/4".

The seam is formed and finished in one operation.

It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.

ELASTIC STRETCH

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - I_

Stitch Width Control - 4

Stitch Length Control - 8

Zigzag Presser Foot

This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie.

The stitch is decorative as well as useful.

Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment, making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced.

To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters and match these markings with center front and back of the garment as well as side seams.

Fig. 1

28

SPECIAL

FINISHING STITCHES

........

After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishing touches to be done.

To aid your completion of your garment, the

Kenmore has been_designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand.

SATIN STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Stitch Width Control - Any Number 1 to 4

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone

Satin Stitch Foot

Use zigzag stitching plate.

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches.

This is an attractive stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly.

The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch.

Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric.

As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabric before starting the design on the garment.

APPLIOUEING

SETTINGS

Same as with Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be applied

to your

garment

and baste it in place.

Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge.

You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color.

29

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

SETTINGS

Stitch Width Control - 4

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag stitching plate.

1. Carefully mark the position and length of each buttonhole on your garment.

Select the proper size buttonhole guide foot to correspond with the length of buttonhole.

2, Mount the guide foot onto the presser foot.

Holding on to the top thread, rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn.

Pull the upper thread under and to the back of the buttonhole guide foot.

See Figs. 1 & 2.

3.

Note in Fig.

3 that each guide foot has a dot on the right ed;_ toward the back of the foot, and on the left edge near the front of the foot.

These dots are used as a point of reference for your bartacking steps in buttonholing.

(See next page).

4. Slide the guide foot forward until the rear edge of the presser foot is at the rear edge of the guide.

5.

Place the fabric with the marked buttonhole under the guide foot.

Lower the presser foot lever and follow steps on next page.

(Check Hints for Perfect Buttonholes on Page 32.)

\

Fig. 1 g. 2

Hinge

Fig. 3

3O

|

Step 1 Step 2

1. Set special stitch dial at r'l and bartack several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole.

Stop sewing at the left stitch.

Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you manually.

2.

Set special stitch dial at "iq. Stitch forward until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot.

The toe of the presser foot will be touching the end of the guide foot.

Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to its highest position as in Step 1.

31

Step 3

Step

3.

Set special stitch dial at E] again and bartack several times.

Raise needle at its highest position as in steps 1 & 2.

4.

Set special stitch dial at G.

and continue sewing until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the right side of the guide foot.

You will have reached the bartacking done in Step 1.

4

HINTS FOR PERFECT

BUTTONHOLES

The presser foot and buttonhole guide foot should be in this position at the start of the buttonhole sewing.

The needle must be lowered at the marked line for the beginning of the buttonhole.

See Fig. 1.

When the full length of the buttonhole is reached, the presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig. 2.

The presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig.

1 when buttonhole is completed.

To make firm well stitched buttonholes in heavier fabrics, repeat only steps 1 and 3 on the preceding page.

REAR

/

Start

<

<

<

<

<

<

<

<

<

Fig. 1

Fig.

2

If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching as shown in Fig. 3, slightly adjust the stitch length control during forward sewing.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use.

Try the buttonhole with the button you will use.

Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching.

1

,

Fig.

3

32

33

!

!

!

!

!

I

I

!

M w m o!

I'

!

I

BUTTON SEWING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Feed DogsDown

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag stitching plate.

1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely.

2. Turn hand wheel manually until neeclle point is just above button.

3. Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter left hole of the button.

4. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole.

Readjust stitch width if necessary.

Stitch a number of times.

5.

Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining.

Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie.

BAR TACKING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use zigzag stitching plate.

This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie.

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

BLIND HEMMING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial-

Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10

Zigzag foot or blindstitch guide

Use zigzag stitching plate.

After you have turned up the hem width desired, turn raw edge over 1/2" and stitch

Press.

this fold with a basting stitch

Fig.

1 Raw edge fold

Fold hem back against right side of garmet with basted raw edge extending about 1/8" to right of garment fold.

Fig. 2 Hem folded back

34

Fig. 3 Fabric placed in blindstitch guide.

Place the fold of the hem in the two left slots of the attachment for ease in guiding the fabric.

Make certain that the zigzag stitch catches the fold of the hem by adjusting the blindstitch slightly from left to right.

guide

Fig. 4 Stitching along fold with blind stitch.

Fig.

5 Finished hem on right side of garment.

Remove basting and press hem.

Right side of garment will show only the blind stitches as in Fig. 5.

35

ZIPPER APPLICATION

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Stitch Width Control - Red Dot

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10

Zipper

Foot

Use straight stitching plate.

REGULAR ZIPPER

The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper.

Adjust the foot so the needle clears the side notch on the foot.

See Fig. 1.

Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper.

See Fig.

2.

Follow the

zipper

manufacturer's instructions.

After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch.

CORDING

Foot can also be. used to make cording for slipcovers etc.

Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3.

Fig. 1

Fig, 2

Fig. 3

36

37

SPECIAL EDGE STITCH

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial -

Stitch Width Control1 to 4

Stitch Length Control-

Zigzag Presser Foot

Red Zone

Use zigzag stitching plate.

This is an attractive overcasting stitch you may want to use on fabrics that fray easily.

MENDING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - ?.:

Stitch Width Control - 4

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone

Zigzag Presser Foot

Use straight stitching plate.

.* ,,.,*., ,.,,,,,

,,*.,.,*,,,,.,

•..,,

• • ...,,..

...

,...,

• ,, .>. -., *.

,..., * • .,,,.+.::,.:,.:,.

,.,

[iiii!i!iiiiiii!!iiiiiiii!iiiii!!iii!!]iii[ii[i!i]i

:::::-:::.:.:.:.:._

:.:.:.::.:

To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear.

When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center.

It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for reinforcement.

DARNING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot

Stitch Width Control - Red Dot

Pressure Regulator - 0

Feed Dogs - Up

No Presser Foot

Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered.

Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.

Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a slow to medium speed.

Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area.

When it is covered, turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching.

38

_0

3. Checking Performance Problems

WHAT TO DO

PROBLEM

Irregular

Stitches

Breaking

Needle

Bunching

Thread of

Puckering

PROBABLE CAUSE

Incorrect size needle.

Improper threading.

Loose upper thread tension.

Pulling fabric.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Loose presser foot.

Unevenly wound bobbin.

Nicks or burrs on shuttle.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.

Pulling fabric.

Incorrect size needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.

Loose presser foot.

Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam.

Incorrect

thread tension(s).

Light pressure on presser foot.

Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.

Bent or blunt needle.

Loose presser foot.

Fabric too sheer or too soft.

CORRECTION

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Rethread machine.

Tighten upper thread tension.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Reset presser foot.

Rewind bobbin.

Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.

Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Reset needle.

Reset presser foot.

When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are formed.

Reset thread tension(s).

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.

Insert new needle.

Reset presser foot,

Use underlay of tissue paper.

4:=

O

PROBLEM

Skipping

Stitches

Breaking Upper

Thread

Breaking Bobbin

Thread

Fabric not

Moving

Machine Jamming

Knocking Noise

PROBABLE CAUSE

Incorrect

size needle.

Certain knits

and synthetics.

Bent or blunt needle.

Incorrect setting of needle.

Tight upper thread tension.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Starting to stitch too fast.

Improper

threading.

Tight upper thread tension.

Incorrect size needle.

Sharp eye in needle.

Nicks or burrs on shuttle.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.

Improper bobbin case threading.

Tight bobbin

thread tension.

Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.

Feed dog down.

Light pressure on presser foot.

Thread knotted under fabric.

Thread caught in shuttle.

CORRECTION

Choose correct

size needle

for thread

and fabric.

Use "Q NEF, I)I,E",_.

Insert new needle.

Reset needle.

Loosen upper thread tension.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Start

to stitch

at a medium speed.

Rethread machine.

Loosen upper thread tension.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Insert new needle.

Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.

Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Check bobbin case threading.

Loosen bobbin thread tension.

Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

Raise feed

dog.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch.

Disassemble

and clean shuttle.

[]

41

Caring for the Machine

CLEANING AND OILING

Fig.

1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a brush•

1

To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times• Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs.

Fig.

2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly lever--_

Shuttle Assembly

.-,---lever

To

Clean the Shuttle Area:

1.

This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread.

Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case.

,

Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.

3.

Clean the shuttle race with small brush.

,

Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race.

(see arrows)

Shuttle Race Cover

To Replace Shuttle Assembly: hook shuttle race as illustrated driver is forming

onted

,

•

Position so that shuttle half moon on the left side of tile machine•

Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half

Shuttle moon on the right side.

Pointed hook will be on the bottom.

driver

3.

Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle assembly•

Shuttle Race Fig. 2

OILING

UNDER ARM COVER PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head.

To remove cover plate lift cover.

42

OILING UNDERSIDE

Tilt

machine

head back and remove bottom cover to oil

points

indicated on underside of machine.

To remove bottom cover, remove screws (A), (B),

(C), (D) and (E) as shown

below.

43

B

OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing hinged face cover plate open and remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in illustration.

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any

Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co.

or

Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores.

Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the right side of your Sewing

Machine.

See Section 1, page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING

FOLLOWING

REPAIR

INFORMATION:

PARTS,

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM

ALWAYS

*PART

GIVE THE

DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution

Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A.

S - 158 Part No. 69565 11/91