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RICCAR® INSTRUCTION MANUAL Mm ООйЙ model RL634DE Four Thread/Three Thread —. Overlock 7 A A) 77 37 ith Differential Feed | | OWNER'S MANUAL This sewing machine ls intended for household use. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using a sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, Including the following. Read all Instructions before using. DAN G E R “ To reduce the risk of electric shock: 1. Never leave unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. | 2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 10 Watts. WA R N | № С * To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or Injury to persons: 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention Is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described In this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. . Never drop or insert any object into any opening. . Do not use outdoors. . Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen Is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn the power switch to the off position, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care Is required around the sewing ma- chine needle and knives. 11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. it may deflect the needle causing It to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine off when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle or loopers, changing needle, knife, or needle plate. 15. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS mé CO On TABLE OF CONTENTS SPECIFICATIONS ............-receoarorarcoacereooresrenarcarrenonenes 1 NARROW AND ROLLED HEMMING .............—..—...... 14 GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SERGER ….…ssveseneseusess 2 changing the throat plate ...... „14 ACCESS TO THREAD GUIDES AND FREE ARM ....3 setiing controls ...........- ===... eres mó 14 ELECTRICAL CONNECTION... penoceocconacaneronaona SOWING ..…oœrvcccrerencenernsansnensencennsnssesvesaressannae „15 ACCESSORIES .............. „не $ thread tension-Method A reecnorocnanenacenarsacnanceneveneneno 15 INSERTING THE NEEDLE aussen veered thread tension-Method В... ors ‚15 NEEOLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART... wed TURNING CORNERS .......rcoonenconononsnenenononeno „16 THREADING THE MACHINE ...........cooneocerrerresenanonree O outside corner ....... EN 16 EXTENSION DAI L…ococrsrsccerserenrenenrencenceserarersenssnsancnrse 6 inside angle and slits.............. „16 threading the upper ICOP@F ss... 7 outside curves ............ „16 threading the lower lOOPpe@r ……………vesereeerenenenne 8 FREE ARM SEWING …….………uresoreres …….….. 16 threading the needles ........ „1.9 DECORATIVE OVERLOCK ………………………cmeeerrreevre 17 easy thread changing o ON method энное О CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE pocenensononnacnes 17 BEFORE STARTING TO SEW... ve....... „10 cleaning … „17 starting to sew ..........-...—:cesecerrononcnsnenonenenoenenacoenenss 10 ONG ........e.eecanenerorseranserorenencncas .17 - end of seam .............=.cme.enone.o 10 removing the presser ÍOOL eeneoranenononensaccanrorneneranrnano 18 when thread breaks .................—ce=e reno. ‚10 changing the lower knife ..... wesen... 18 OVERLOCK SEWING (2-needie, 4-hread) sovscsaysoses 1 changing the sewing light.... .19 FOUR THREAD TENSION ...............e ‚11 BEFORE YOU CALL FOR SERVICE ...........e.ese.e.es 19 SETTING STITCH LENGTH.......... „12 STITCH SELECTION CHART L………cvrossereseersersensennene 20 ADJUSTING THE DIFFERENTIAL FEED esse 12 SETTING THE SEAM WIDTH ..... ‚een 12 ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE ON FABRIC ............ 13 OVERLOCK SEWING (1-needle, 3-thread) .............. 13 three thread tension ....... peonenconeanaces verwen. 13 SPECIFICATIONS Stitch length 1-4 mm Differential feed ratio 0.7-2.0 Seam width Left needle: 8.2-7.2 mm, Right needle; 4.0-5.0 mm Needle bar stroke 27 mm Presser foot Hinged, Snap on type Presser foot lift 5 mm Needle Type 15 x 1, 705, 130 size 11, 14 ~ Number of threads 4.3 Dimensions Width: 200 mm x Depth: 230 mm x Height: 320 mm — Net weight 6.8 kg | GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SERGER 1. Thread Guide Hanger 2. Extension Bar 3. Lower Looper Thread Tension Dial (Blue) 4. Upper Looper Thread Tension Dial (Green) 5. Thread Guide and Tension Disc 6. Right Needle Thread Tension Dial (Red) 7. Left Needle Thread Tension Dial — (Orange) 8. Pressure Regulator 9. Thread Take-up Lever 10. Extension Table ———— 17 11. Presser Foot Releasing Lever 12. Presser Foot eT 13. Free Arm | = | 16 44, Extension Table Lock/Release Lever — 15. Front Cover 16. Looper Thread Guide 2) 17. Stitch Length Window — 15 — J = © (== FRONT VIEW x. I= Г 28 NE 27 18. Differential Feed Indicator | BE NA 26 19. Stitch Length Regulator Dial 18 3; . CON — 25 (outside dial) <> Ip Al _ A 20. Differential Feed Regulator Dial 19 INS — 24 (inside dial) | WE 21. Hand Wheel 20 22. Light & Power Switch 23. Terminal Box 24. Spool Stand 21 25. Spool Pin 26. Spool Supporter 27. Presser Foot Lifter 22 28. Handle 23 REAR VIEW — | INSIDE OF FRONT COVER AND FREE ARM ! ЗИ COVER 2 _ 1. Needle Clamp = 2. Upper Knife Holder 3 L[e 3. Upper Knife ha — ‘ —6 4. Throat Plate 4 7 5. Seam Width Knob | - | 6. Upper Looper : D 8 7. Lower Looper | c : 8. Lower Knife 5 ) о él) y | © 4 À _ (= 7 leir Place thumb in hollow of front cover and slide it to the right as far as possible; pull cover down towards you. To close, lift cover up and it will snap into places. Be sure that the cover is properly closed before starting to sew. pening the Extension Table Turn lever located on left side of Extension Table towards front of machine. Pull Extension Table out to open. To close push shut and turn lever in opposite direction. This locks the Extension Table to Free Arm Cover. emoving the Free Arm Cover Ning Extension Table out with lever in locked position 1d Free Arm Cover will stay attached to the Extension able. ':LECTRICAL CONNECTION onnect the electrical cord to the machine by inserting 6 three-hole plug Into the terminal box located on the f= 3ht side of the machine. Connect the cord plug into | Fo | n electrical outlet. | | © М Power Line Plug he light and power switch is located alongside the \/ . N yrminal box. To turn power on, push on left side of. wn 77 AN — witch. D == uming on the power lights up the stitching area. The 0 == | о ES Well Receptacle \achine will not operate unless the switch is on. Light and Power Switch > Foot Control CAUTION 4. Disconnect the electrical cord from the wall outlet when machine is not in use or when it Is being cleaned. 9. Turn the power switch to the “OFF” position before changing needles of throat plates, and before connecting the cord. This will help prevent accidents. ACCESSORIES The accessories are provided in the accessory case located insid provided on the base located under the extension table. Open the extension table and ES the accessory case toward you. e the extension table. And some accessories are | ps + S22 Tweezers 15x1 #14 x , ess, Extra <=> #14 х 3 ~~ ceo Lower Knife Dust Cover © (NP | Rolled Hem Oller Brush Screw Dreiver Throat Plate Thread Nets | Accessory Box INSERTING THE NEEDLE Select the proper type and size needle for fabric used. (See below “NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART") Left Needle Clamp Screw 0 Right Needie Clamp Screw Loosen 1. Turn electrical power off. 2. Turn hand wheel towards you until the needle comes to its highest point. 3. Use the screw driver to loosen the Left and/or Right needle clamp screw, and remove the needle. 4. Place flat side of needle toward back of the ma- chine, and insert in needle clamp as far as it will go. 5. Retighten the screw. NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART The chart shows size and type of thread, and needle size for various weights and types of fabrics. Size means the fineness of both needle and thread. FABRICS THREADS NEEDLE SIZES LIGHTWEIGHT: Cotton #100 Silk #100 organdy, voile, taffeta, lawn, Spun #80-100 #11 crepe, Tetron 490 MEDIUM WEIGHT; Cotton 460-80 Silk #50 gingham, satin, seersucker, linen, Spun #60-80 #11, #14 velveteen, gabardine, broadcloth. Tetron #80-80 HEAVY WEIGHT: Cotton #40-60 Silk #40-50 denim, tweed, corduroy, pile Spun #60-90 #14 fabrics. Tetron #50-60 Spun #60-80 tricot Tetron 460-80 #11 Woolly Nylon KNIT Jersey A #1714 ‘Woolly Nylon Spun #60-80 wool Tetron #50-60 #14 Woolly nylon Woolly Tetron THREADING THE MACHINE The machine comes threaded from the factory and must be rethreaded for use. When threading, be sure to follow the directions given below. The machine must be threaded in the proper sequence In oder to sew. An illustration for correct threading is inside the front cover of the machine. The thread guides are Identified with color markings corresponding to the thread to which they belong. Always thread the upper and lower loopers before threading the needles. Thread Sequence 1. Upper Looper 2. Lower Looper 3. Right Needle 4, Left Needle extension bar 1. Pull the Extension Bar up as far as It will go. 2. Rotate the Thread Quide Hanger so that the Thread Guides are right above the spool pins. 3. Place the spools or thread cones on spool pins. Thread spool nets are useful for synthetic threads which tend to drop off its holder. Cover the thread cones with the thread nets provided with the accessories. Bring thread end to the top of the machine. 6 Thread caps are also provided with the accessories. They are used when sewing with regular spools. Insert the stem of cap into the spool hole. Opposite the end with notch. threading the upper looper Open the front cover and thread upper looper thread as illustrated below 1 to 10. Follow thread guides with green color markings on machine. 1. Pass thread through V0 | | op guide from back o front. je | | 2. Bring thread down and pass through thread guide and under Tension Disc. . Bring thread straight down through the slot so that it passes between the tension discs. . Hook thread into guide from the right side. . Hook thread from the left side. . Hook thread from the right side. . Hook thread from the bottom side and pull thread up. . Hook thread from the top side. . Hook thread from the bottom side and pull thread up. 10. Use tweezers to pass thread through the upper looper hole front to back, Pull at least 7 cm (3 inches) of thread through the upper looper. O a iO CC + threading the lower looper Remove the free arm cover and thread lower looper thread as illustrated below A tq L.Follow thread guides with blue color markings on machine. A. Pass thread through guide from back to front. B. Bring thread down and pass through thread guide and under ténsion disc. = x LE О ней Fd ‚> “ ~~ Qu C. Bring thread straight down along the slot 80 that the thread passes between the tension disc. | DE М AS A « f i On MO . Hook thread into guide from the left side. . Hook thread from the right side and pull thread towards left. . Hook thread from the bottom side. . Hook thread from the bottom side and pull thread towards left. . Turn hand wheel towards you until the lower looper is in extreme left side position. Pass thread through hole using the tweezers. Turn hand wheel until the lower looper is In ex- treme right position. Use the tweezers to pass thread through hole front to back. Pull at least 7 cm (3 inches) of thread through lower looper. threading the left and right needles Thread left needle as illustrated below in steps A to H. Il * Thread guides with orange color marking on machine. O — A NT 0, the needle eye front to back. o efi I< | | : Pull at least 7 cm (3 inches) of hee X © | | thread through the needle eye. | | E o © Thread right needle as illustrated below in steps a to |. OLD Thread guides with red color marking on machine). == a- c. Thread same sequence as threading upper and lower looper thread. d. Hook thread into guide and puil it towards left, e. Hook thread into depth side opening of guide. f. hook into guide by sliding thread across top and down into hole. g. Hook thread into right side opening of guide. h. Pass thread through guide. I. Pass through needle eye front to back, Pull at least 7 cm (3 inches) of thread through the needle eye. A- C. Thread same sequence as threading upper and lower looper thread. Hook thread into this side open- ing of guide and pull thread up. Hook into guide by sliding thread across top and down into hole. Hook thread into left side opening of guide. Pass thread through guide. Use the tweazers to pass through то mM m O easy thread changing -Tying On method ul eN 7) 1. Cut the thread near the spools. 7 W 2. Exchange the spool with a new one and tie end to remaining thread making knot as small as possible. 3. Note the numbers on each Thread Tension М Dial. 4. Turn Thread Tension Dials to the smallest —. number, 5. Press Foot Control and run machine until upper and lower thread knot comes through looper hole. 6. Stop needle thread knot before passing through eye of needle. Pull needle threads near the needle eye and cut thread knots. 7. Pass threads through needle eye manually. 8. Return tension dials to original tension settings. BEFORE STARTING TO SEW When the machine is plugged in properly and threaded correctly it is ready for sewing. To insure good stitches, make several sewing tests using the same fabric and thread on which you will sew. Make the proper adjustments while test sewing. starting to sew 1. Pull all threads under the prasser foot and toward the back. (fig.10-A) 2. Lower the presser foot. 3. Tum hand wheel towards you 2 or 3 times and check the thread chain. 4. Press Foot Control lightly pulling threads towards back and make thread chain about 5 cm (2 inches). 5. Place a scrap of fabric under the toe of the presser foot at the position to be stitched. (fig. 10-8) 6. Hold end of thread with your left hand when starting to sew. end of seam 1. When the needle reaches the end of seam, chain off by x S Ц u u | running the machine until the thread chain is 6-7 cm (2-3 LAN TA —f inches) long. NT 2. Stop the machine and cut the thread chain remaining 3-4 cm |- OE Ao (1-2 inches) to the machine. (fig. 10-C) Tie small knots in thread ends and treat with dot of seam sealant. Let dry and trim close to knot. 3. For neater finish, pull thread ends back through seam using hook or yarn needle. when thread breaks If the thread breaks while sewing, remove fabric from machine and rethread as indicated below. * Upper Looper Thread; turn hand wheel towards you until the upper looper Is in the lowest position. Pass thread through the looper hole. * Lower Looper Thread; cut the needle threads near needles hole; rathread the lower looper; rethread the neadle/needles. To begin sewing, place material 3-4 cm (1-2 inches) behind point where thread broke. 10 OVERLOCK SEWING (2-needle, 4-thread) Your machine will sew overlock stitches and simultane- Correct 4-thread tension ously trim the fabric. cue F473 Top side 7 It is delivered from the factory preset to sew a 4-thread << . E. ot m5 Upper overlock stitch. A 5 N fabric в Looper Thi ul 7 Ng] Thread s machine can also sew 1-needle, 3-thread overlock [*: of fabric WE stitch by removing one needle. (See page 13 "OVER- ka Mod Left - LOCK SEWING 1-needle, 3-thread”.) Eo Ny + Needia EZ 74 Thread The 2-neadie, 4-thread stitch offers a stronger seam for AT some areas of your sawing. it is recommended for most woven fabrics and clothes that wiil receive harder wear and/or frequent washings. FOUR THREAD TENSION The stitch quality depends on proper balance between the four thread tensions. The tensions may require adjust. ment depending on the type of fabric, heaviness of fabric and size of thread used. | CAD — night ` 7m Needle <A am Thread The table below is a guide for adjusting the thread tension. Note: Be sure that the thread Is passing between the tension discs. Left | Right Upper | Lower Turning thread tension dial Fabric Needle Needie | Looper Looper Thread | Thread | Thread | Thread Light Weight | 2.5-4.5 | 1.5-35 | 20-40 | 2.04.0 Medium Weight 2.54.5 | 15-35 | 2.040 | 2.04.0 Heavy Weight| 2.5-4.5 2.0-4.0 NOTE: _ This table is a guide for . sowing vIN9B0 O I TO INCREASE, turn tension dial to a higher number. polyester spun threads. TO DECREASE, turn tension dial o a lower wa чт number, The charts below are Illustrations of stitches needing adjustment in the thread tension. | . Left needle thread is too | Right needle thread is too | Upper looper thread Lower looper thread loose. (Clearly visible on | loose. crossed on bottom side of | crossed on top side of the bottom side of fabric.) fabric. fabric. | Au A increase Left Needle increase Right Needle increase Upper Looper increase Lower Looper Thread Tension and/or Thread Tension. Thread Tension and/or Thread Tension and/or Decrease Upper and Decrease Lower Loopar | Decrease Upper Looper Lower Looper Thread Thread Tension. Thread Tension. 11 Tenslons. SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch length can be adjusted between 1 and 4 mm. * For shortest stitch, turn dial to 1, (fig.12-A) * For longest stitch, turn dial to 4. As a rule, light weight fabrics take a shorter stitches. Heavy weight fabrics need longer stitches. Most normal sewing Is done with stitch length dial set at 3. This produces a medium length stitch which makes a strong seam and Is suitable for most fabrics. ADJUSTING THE DIFFERENTIAL FEED This machine has two feed dogs - a front feed dog and a rear feed dog, which move independently and can be adjusted separately. This Differential Feed prevents waving In stretch fabrics and insures pucker-free seams in light weight woven fabrics. The rear feed motion (main feed) is adjusted by turning the stitch length regulator dial. The front feed motion is adjusted | fig. 12-C by turning the differential feed regulator dial which is located inside the stitch length regulator dial. (fig. 12-B) + For normal sewing, set the differential feed regulator dial to “N°. Both feed dogs will move tagether and feed evenly. + For pucker-free seams In delicate or closely woven fabrics, ~ turn the dial to “0.7”. The front feed dog motion will be shorter than the rear feed dog motion. The front feed dog will hold back the fabric enabling the rear feed dog to take it up behind the needle without any puckering. (fig. 12-C) * When sewing stretch or knit fabrics, tum the dial towards *2". The front feed dog motion will be longer than the rear feed dog motion and in this manner the fabric can be sewn without stretching. (fig. 12-D) The differential feed can be used for gathering or lettuce edging. * For gathering, set the dial towards “2”, (fig. 12-E) * For lettuce edging, set the dial towards “0.7”. (fig. 12-F) SETTING THE SEAM WIDTH Overedge seam width can be adjusted from 6.2 mm (right 3 АЛИСЕ ПОДАН needie 4.0 mm) to 7.2 mm (right needle 6.0 mm) stitch, Normally the machine is set at 6.2 mm which is the width most frequently used. For heavy weight fabrics, set control knob to wider stitch. 1. Tum power switch off, 2. Open front.cover and Free Arm Cover. 3. Push thé Upper Knife Holder to the right and turn the Seam Width Knob downward 10 select wider stitch width. For smaller width turn knob in opposite direction. When adjusting the width, use graduations on throat plate as guide and line up with left edge of lower knife holder. The numbers marked on the throat plate are the width to the right needle, and the distance between needles Is 2.2 mm. Therefore the width to left needle Is an additional 2.2 mm. 12 ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE ON FABRIC The pressure on the foot can be adjusted for differant weight fabrics. The fabric should move along smoothly and evenly without slipping. Stitches should be uniform in size. The pressure on this machine Is set for sewing medium weight fabrics. * For sewing light weight fabrics, decrease the pressure (tum screw to left). * For heavy weight fabrica, increase the. pressure (turn screw to right). OVERLOCK SEWING (1-needle, 3-thread ) This machine can also sew 1-needie, 3-thread overiock stitching by removing either needle, depanding on the seam width you desire. This is the standard overlock stitch and is suitable for most fabrics. To convert your machine to a wide 3-thread stitch (7.2 mm - 6.2 mm), snip the right needle thread just above the aye of the needle. Remove the thread from the “red” color coded thread guides. Т Remove the right needle and tighten the right needle clamp screw. This stitch |, width is suitable for sewing heavier fabrics. | «25 <I <I 1 To convert your machine to a narrow 3-thread stitch (5 mm - 4 mm), snip the | | , left needle thread just above the eye of the needle. Remove the thread from the “orange” color coded thread guides. Remove the left needle and tighten 6.2 mm à 4.0 mm the left needle clamp screw. This stitch width is suitable for sewing lightweight to medium weight fabrics. =— Fabric Needie Thread Upper | Lower Both seam widths can be adjusted by tuming the seam | y aight eedie "head | ooper | Looper (Left or Right) | Thread | Thread ef 0-4. : — 2448 : YT 14404 width knob. (See page 12 “SETTING SEAM WIDTH") JR Light - three thread tension | Medium Use the chart to the right as a guide in setting tension. Heavy Note: Be sure that the thread is passing between the ft np 1 E >» Sto > SERE bb BR" PTT eee Ne o tension discs. NOTE: This table Is a guide for = The illustrations below are examples of stitches which thread tensions when Bm need adjusting. sewing with #80 to #90 о polyester spun threads. — Needle thread Is too loose. (Clearly | Upper looper thread crossed on Lower looper thread crossed on top viable on the bottom side of fabric.) | bottom side of fabric. side of fabric. ЩЖ ый В > —y o od р В UN LY increase leedie Thread Tension Increase Upper Looper Thread Increase Lower Looper Thread and/or Decrease Upper and Lower | Tension and/or Decrease Lower Tension and/or Decrease Upper Looper Thread Tension. Looper Thread Tension. Looper Thread Tension. 13 NARROW AND ROLLED HEMMING By changing the throat plate to “Rolled Hem Throat Plate” and using right needle only, the machine trims fabric, folds back the edge and sews a narrow hem (overedge). The width of the narrow overedge is 1.5 mm (about 1/16") and is used for overedging light and medium weight fabrics. Two variations of the rolled overedge hem can be sewn with this machine by changing the thread tension. Both methods are used with light and medium weight fabrics. Method B gives a softer finish by pulling the interlocking threads to the wrong side. changing the throat plate The machine comes with a standard overedge throat plate set to the machine. Change the throat plate when sewing rolled overedge. 1. Tum power switch off. | 2. Tum hand wheel toward you until needie is at its O highest point. Standard Overedge Rolled Hem 3. LN presser foot bar. Throat Plate Thvoat Plate 4. Clear stitches off the stitch fingers. 5. Open Extension Table and Free 7. Lift the Throat Plate off and 8. Retighten the screw and replace Arm Cover (See page 3). replace with Rolled Hemming Free Arm Cover, 6. Loosen the front side screw. Plate. (Be sure that thread is not caught under plate.) setting controls Set the controls as follows. 1. Use right needle only. (Remove the left needle.) 2. Fabric, Thread & Needle Size Refer to Page 5 “NEEDLE, THREAD & FABRIC CHART”, for selecting suitable thread and needle 9 o sizes for sewing on light and medium weight fabrics. 3. Stitch Length Regulator Th Set stitch length between 1 and 2 mm, 4. Seam width knob The seam width for sewing rolled overedge is normally 1.5 mm (about 1/16"). Tum seam width knob and adjust so that the left ñ side of Lower Knife Holder is aligned with the mark of the Rolled Ham Throat Plate. (See page 12). Right Needle | Stitch Length | Seam Width 14 sewing Pull the excess threads gently toward the back and begin sewing. Although the stitch width is set at 1.5 mm, you will actually need 3.5 mm (about 1/8") to provide enough fabric for the fold back. thread tension -Method A Use the chart below as a guide in setting tension. The tension adjustments for Method A are the same as 1-needle, 3-thread overfock. See page 13 if adjustments are needed. Needle | Upper Lower Fabric Thread | Looper Looper (Right) | Thread | Thread I Light & Medium| 1.53.5 | 20-40 | 2.040 N 7 NOTE: x This table is a guide x fot thread tensions — 00 when sewing with #80 я to #90 polyester spun | — JP threads. ROLLED OVEREDGE -Method B Correct 3-thread narrow overedge tension ДАТЕ, pri FE rad toad pane thee 19 HC DEE PT, Ш Эй ЧИ The upper looper thread encases the edge fabric in Method B rolled overedge hem creating a softer finish. Settings and sewing of Method B roflad overedge hem are the same as the Method A rolled overedge except for thread tension, (See below) thread tension -Method B Regulate the tension dials using guide below. Needie | Upper Lower Fabric Thread | Looper | Looper (Right) | Thread | Thread Correct 3-thread | Light & Medium| 15-35 | 2.04.0 | 40-70 9 A NOTE: This table is a guide for thread tensions | — 0) when sewing with 480 to 490 polyester spun t.reads. [o Ea ier ENS Oa rolled hem tension Right sida 1% %, of fabric 122 я Looper Thread 1 LJ Needle thread is too loose. €, y | BY] A EEE EEE LE ETRE RATAN UD Increase Needie Thread Tension increase Upper Looper Thread and/or Decrease Upper Thread Tension. Tension. FE Looper Thread Tension. Lower looper thread is too loose. increase Lower Looper Thread Tension and/or Decreasa Upper 16 TURNING CORNERS outside corner DON 1. Cut the comer about 56 om (2-3 2. Saw to the end of fabric and stop 5. Tum fabric and position the fabric inches) along the cutting line. machine. by lining up the cut line and knife. 3. Ralse needle and presser foot. Lower the asso Foot. 4. Pull fabric der po towards a back out tangled thre inside angle and slits rom Tivoat TT gen nn GEE OW WWW WT a EW пр у о р 1. Sew desired seam line until 2. When you approach the comer, 3, Straighten the fabric out in front approach the comer, slow down and allow the knife to of the knife and stitch completing make one more small notch into the edge. the comer. : outside curves The machine can continue sewing when rounding a curve. There is no need to stop the machine and pivot. Pugh excess fabric toward the presser foot giving the machine more fabric and continue sewing as if sewing a straight seam, FREE ARM SEWING , | This machine will convert to free arm sewing by simply opening the Extension Table. i is used for sewing sleeves, trousers or similar places that are difficult to вем опа flat bed machine < e uu T > фа Tum lever located on left side of extension table to the A AN on of machine and swing table out. DECORATIVE OVERLOCK Nhen you change the Upper Looper Thread to heavier thread or yam, you can produce decorative overiock stitching. Fry using various types of thread to create attractive combinations experiment with different tension adjustments 0 produce a variety of decorative effects. 3xamples; 1-needia, 3-thread Rolled hem Rolled hem y Method.B 5 ZA 2] Upper Looper ón 2 Upper Looper M Upper Looper. и, - Thread: 4 Thread: fj Thread: % Heavy thread 3 Woolly Nylon; ES Different or Yarn E colored thread A Rayon; e metallics § (Shorter stitch o ; Length) CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE cleaning | Fabric, thread scraps and dust may accumulate around moving pats and effect the functioning of machine. ‘Unplug cord and clean machine with the brush provided with the accessories. Brush around the fabric feed dog Brush inside of the front cover olling Critical parts used In this machine are made of special material that does not require oiling. Only the parts indicated with arrows shown below need olling. Depending on use these should be olled once or twice a month. oC | Cu Queens) BE: Prema 17 emoving the presser foot he presser foot can be removed easily by pulling the presser foot leasing lever. . Tum the hand wheel towards you until the needie is at its highest point. . Uft up the presser foot by raising the presser foot lifter. . Pull the presser foot releasing lever towards you, and presser foot will disengage. . Puli yp the presser foot spring and remove the presser foot. tEPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT . Puli up the presser foot spring and place the presser foot below the presser foot holder so that the pin on the foot fits into the hollow of prasser foot holder. 1. Lower the presser bar with the presser foot lifter and the presser foot will snap into place. Jptional Presser Feet: Blindhemming Foot and Elastic Application ‘oot. See your dealer for availability. shanging the lower knife :xchange the Lower Knife as shown below when it becomes dull. in extra knife ls provided with the accessories. |. Unplug the machine. >. Open the front cover. 3. Raise the upper knife as illustrated below. ) ( 1. Turn hand wheel towards you untl b. Push the upper knife to the right as far as it will go and turn knob in the upper knife is at lis lowest opposite direction until it clicks into position. point. mr 4. Loosen the Lower Knife Screw and take out the knife. . Install new knife by inserting it into the groove of the knife holder. Be sure that the tip of the lower knife is lined up with the surface of Throat Plate, and tighten screw. . Return the Upper Knife to cutting position by pushing knife holder to right and turning knife towards you until it clicks into position. Close the front cover. ui is The upper knife Is made of special hard material and should not require replacement under normal use. If it should chip or need replacement, call for your dealer. 18 Lower Knife L Holder changing the sewing light If the sewing light does not fight when power switch is turned on, replace the bulb. 1. Unplug sewing machine from the wall receptacle. 2. Remove the Light Cover by loosening the screw. 3. Remove tha bulb. 4. Replace with new bulb of same size wattage and size. 5. Replace the Light Cover. BEFORE YOU CALL FOR SERVICE Your new overlock sewing machine was carefully Inspected and tested at the factory and was in perfact working order when shipped. Under normal conditions, if you carefully follow instructions for threading, operating and maintenance, your ‘machine will give you years of trouble-free service. Occasional difficulties are usually caused by a condition that can be easily remedied with a minor adjustment. Some possible problems, their causes and corrections are given here. PROBLEM CAUSE CORRECTION REF. PAGE - ‘Needle inserted incorrectly Reset needle 5 Thread tensions are too tight Loosen thread tensions | 11, 13, 15 THREAD BREAKS Bent or blunt needle insert new needle 5 Machine not properly threaded Rethread machine 6-9 Threads are caught in incorrect guide | Rethread machine 6-9 «Beant or blunt needle Insert new needle 5 | ‘Needle Inserted Incorrectly Reset.needle 5 ‘ MACHINE SKIPS *Prassure on foot Insufficient Increase pressure 13 STITCHES “Incorrect needle size or type Insert correct needle 5 *Machine incorractly threaded Rethread machine 6-9 Tensions set too high Loosen thread tensions | 11, 13, 15 «Pulling fabric while sewing Do not pull fabric 10 NEEDLE BREAKS *Incorrect size needle or thread for Choose correct needle | 5 fabric being sewn and thread *Noedie inserted Incorrectly Reset needle 5 MACHINE DOES NOT Pressure on presser foot Insufficient | Increase pressure 13 FEED PROPERLY «Lower knife is dull Change lower knife 18 «Stitch length not suitable for fabric Readjust stitch fength — | 12 FABRIC PUCKERS «Differential feed not sultable Readjust differential feed! 12 Thread tensions are too tight Loosen thread tensions | 11, 13, 15 «Seam width not suitable for fabric Readjust seam width 12 LOOSE STITCHES OR Tensions not adjusted properly Check thread tensions | 11,13, 15 . LOOPS FORMED ‘ MACHINE RUNS HEAVILY | «Dirt or fint In stitching mechanism Clean the machine 17 MACHINE WILL NOT SEW | «Cord not plugged Into electrical outlet | Check plug 4 Light and power switch not on Turn on the switch 19 STITCH SELECTION CHART 20 STITCH (Correct thread tension) NEEDLE THROAT PLATE SEAM WIDTH |STITCH LENGTH 2-needle, 4-thread penser м 1-4 mm / \ Refer to Page O / 11 for Tension =” Adjustment. 6.2 mm Sr. Both (align 4 mm line) 1-needio, 3-thre: e 7 | 1-4 mm Refer to Page 13 for Tension 8.2 mm Adjustment, Left . | (align 4 mm line) 1-neadle, 3-thread (Narrower) O x | OA я 1-4 mm 3 Y $ H / \ i! O j Refer to Page к o \ — 13 for Tension 5 A ZA | 4-5 mm Adjustment, 4. a Right Standard Narrow Hemming-Method A * i 1-2 mm | \ H Gi } Refer to Page y — 15 for Tension 1.5 mm Adjustment. Right Rolled Hem (Actually 3.5 mm) U— ! | 1-2 mm | AT — E © } Refer to Page y zz 15 for Tension 1.5 mm Adjustment. Right Rolled Hem (Actually 3.5 mm) т
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