SINGER 401 sewing machine User manual

Instructions for Using
SINGER*
401
Form 4101 - *A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Printed in U.S.A.
(Rev. 576) Copyright © 1959 by The Singer Company
All Rights Reserved Throuahout the Warld
The SINGER 401
the greatest sewing machine ever built . . .
From the moment you see the new SINGER 401, you'll know it's
excitingly different. You'll marvel at its automatic sewing . .. its
almost unbelievable ease of operation . .. the remarkable services it
performs. You'll delight in its sure, beautiful stitching.
® Worlds first automatic with a slant needle and gear drive.
Seeing is easier, sewing smoothest ever. No slipping or stalling.
® Worlds first automatic with double easy threading. Has built-
in threading chart, hardy “drop-in” bobbin in front of needle!
Oe Worlds first automatic with a built-in eye-level stitch chart,
SINGER — that lets you “tune” the knob for whatever fancy stitch you want!
Add to these major developments in sewing machine design the
following ADVANCED features, and you have a machine far ahead in
design, unequalled in performance.
Copyright 1959 by The Singer Manufacturing Company
® ELEVATOR TYPE multi-purpose calibrated throat @ NEW NEEDLE CLAMP holds one or two regu-
plate, lever operated, simplifies darning. lar needles-same or different sizes for exciting
twin needle stitching.
® HINGED face plate swings open for easy clea-
ning.
® ALL MECHANISM completely enclosed.
@ SUPERFINE CONTROL of stitch length ensures
perfect satin stitching.
® NEW AUTOMATIC THREAD CONTROL.
O PERFECT Straight Stitching. | @ NEW SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT.
@® BUILT-IN LIGHT focused on sewing area. ® NEW SEAM GUIDE.
TO GET THE MOST ENJOYMENT
FROM YOUR SINGER
Take advantage of the free sewing lessons to which you are entitled!
Skilled, SINGER-trained teachers will give you personal guidance and
assist you in learning the fundamentals of home sewing.
SINGER SERVICE
Wherever you go you will find expert, dependable SINGER" Service
close at hand. SINGER is interested in helping you keep your SINGER
Sewing Machine in top running condition. That is why you should al-
ways call your SINGER SEWING CENTRE if your machine ever
requires adjustment or repair. Only from your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE can you obtain the services of a trained SINGER repair man
and warranted SINGER* parts.
EVERYTHING FOR THE WOMAN WHO SEWS |
The answer to your sewing needs is at your SINGER SEWING
CENTRE. There you will find a wide choice of sewing aids, notions,
sewing instructions and services. Look for the famous red “S” and
SINGER trademarks on your SINGER SEWING CENTRE and the ever
ready SINGER Service Car. See phone book for address nearest you.
Addendum
WIND THE BOBBIN
Loosen stop motion screw with right hand. Raise bobbin winder and position
bobbin on spindle. Press winder against hand wheel.
WIND THE BOBBIN (Cont'd.
man oo ос
THEE Ra aw
i” EE. CARLA Ca
NE
Place thread on spool pin and lead between
bobbin winder tension discs. Thread through
hole in left side of bobbin as shown.
aa dd
т” т =
”
7 ” {
7 еее 4
- . as
‘ i
v
Hold thread end to start winding. Activ
machine.
Full bobbin will automatically release.
Tighten stop motion screw.
NEEDLE AND THREAD SELECTION
The selection of thread should be based on the fabric to be stitched. The thread should blend with
the fabric in colour, fibre and size.
Silk and wool fabrics should be stitched with silk thread; cotton fabrics should be stitched with cotton
or cotton mercerised thread, etc. The thread must be of a size that will imbed itself into the texture of the
fabric. Thread that is too heavy for the fabric will remain on the surface and become weakened by fric-
tion and abrasion.
The selection of the needle should be based on both the fabric and thread being used. The eye of the
needle must be large enough for the thread to pass freely through it. The blade of the needle must be fine
enough not to mar the fabric with too large a puncture, yet heavy enough to pierce the fabric without
binding or deflecting.
You will obtain best stitching results from your Sewing Machine if it is fitted with a SINGER* Needle.
5
NEEDLES AND THREAD
This machine uses a 15 X 1 needle.
Sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18.
For perfect stitching, select correct needle
and thread to correspond with fabric (see
page 5).
Be sure to use like threads for both needle
and bobbin.
LONG GROOVE
| ei TOWARD YOU
NEEDLE INSERTION A |
Raise the needle bar to highest point by E
turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw. Insert needle
upward into clamp as far as it will go, with
the flat side of the needle to the back and
the long groove toward you. Tighten needle
clamp screw.
6
TO OPERATE MACHINE
(Electric Drive)
Place material under the presser foot and
lower foot. Connect plug to electric outlet
(see page 90). Start machine by pressing con-
troller. (If installed as knee controller, press
knee lever to the right; if installed as foot
controller, press down on foot pedal.)
NU
i
The speed of the machine depends entirely
on the amount of pressure applied to the
controller.
Practice operating the machine (without
thread) until you become accustomed to
guiding material and regulating machine
speed.
TO OPERATE THE MACHINE
(Treadle Drive)
8 ANN
EN £
te,
“2,
cy
GRE
iy
Hl
Turn hand wheel over toward you, allowing feet to move freely and lightly with motion of treadle.
Practice this motion until you are able to re-start machine with hand wheel turning over toward you. Then
tighten stop motion screw.
8
er
BELT SHIFTER .
To throw off the belt, work the treadle and move
belt shifter to position shown.
To replace belt, release belt shifter and work
treadle slowly with band wheel turning over to-
Place material under presser foot and lower the
foot.
ward you. One or two revolutions of band wheel
Will bring belt back into place. .
Operate machine (without thread) until you be-
come accustomed to guiding the material.
Note: Tension on belt should be only heavy en-
ough to keep belt from slipping.
9
UPPER THREADING-SINGLE NEEDLE
Raise take-up lever to highest point. Place thread
on spool pin and lead through threading points
shown. Thread needle from front to back. Draw suf-
MANCO NE NENA peo
ficient thread through eye of needie with which to
start sewing.
ARES
SAAN
AWA
TE,
Sig
SRE
157
>
WIND THE BOBBIN
Y
Loosen stop motion screw with right hand. Place bobbin on spindle. Pull out bobbin winder engaging
slide.
11
WIND THE BOBBIN (Cont'd.)
ody,
ess
Thread the machine as shown.
12
A N
me
AG
É
Ë
i
Ë
%
-
Bag
A full bobbin will automatically release
machine and push in disengaging slide.
TRAS
paré ‘
BRL SONNE ANS ANS
Hold end of thread and start machine. Tighten stop motion screw.
REMOVE THE BOBBIN
14
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot
and under spring.
SN,
Serr
Dumas FESR, >
, "Ce,
re
Draw thread into notch at end of spring, pulling off about 3 inches of thread across the bobbin.
Close slide plate allowing thread to enter notch.
15
PRINCIPAL PARTS OF MACHINE 401
S .
Stitch Selector titch chart
Special disc
Take-up Lever Red Lever
«QU Bobbin
winder
Automatic
thread control
Hand
wheel
Needle thread
tension
Throat plate Stitch
regulator
7
Slide plate Throat plate positioning lever
16
STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR
Numerals on the left side of the indicator repre-
sent the number of stitches per inch. Numerals on
the right side represent the number of millimeters
UNLOCKS per stitch.
The upper indented area of the indicator repre-
sents stitch lengths above 20 per inch or stitches
less than one millimeter in length.
The lower indented area of the indicator allows
the No. 6 stitch length setting to be ,locked” in
place when stitching folds, pleats or multiple layers
of heavy fabric.
To set stitch length: Release pointer by turning
thumb nut to the left, as shown. Position lever for
desired stitch length. Tighten pointer against the
plate by turning thumb nut to the right.
Once the pointer has been positioned, reverse
stitching is accomplished by raising the lever to
LOCKED SETTING its highest point. The No. 6 ,locked” position can-
not be reversed.
17
RED LEVER
A Red Lever setting is necessary for both straight and zigzag stitching. Numerals indicate five posi-
tions, but intermediate settings may also be used.
To position, depress lever and slide it left or right to desired setting
18
STITCH SELECTOR
Set Red Lever at 3.
y
3
All settings on the left of the plate are controlled by the outer knob.
Push (using right hand) —select desired setting and release.
All settings on the right of the plate are controlled by the inner knob.
Pull (using left hand) —select desired setting and release.
Do not make selector adjustments while the needle
hil | A vo SPECIAL
is in the fabric. с ye
E fo
F A
GH AT M
K
{ | PUSH AND SELECT
1. PUSH
2. SELECT (A THRU J)
3. RELEASE
PULL AND SELECT
1. PULL
2. SELECT (K THRU S)
3. RELEASE
20
THROAT PLATE POSITIONS
ER Rg
Throat plate down for general sewing.
ANT NINN,
нула мед SOIR
Throat plate raised for darning, embroidery and button sewing.
THROAT PLATE
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
ep OR GA PEAS SS
ny ee
eo ER gen
3
Ë
Ÿ ro Pres
REE я
ppp PIRI
wasn iE
Throat plate raised (unlocked) for removal and replacement.
Raise presser bar. Turn hand wheel to drop take-
TAKE-UP LEVER y up lever to its lowest point. Move throat plate
MUST BE IN = lever to the left. This preparation applies to both
LOWEST POSITION . removal and replacement.
Remove throat plate by sliding it back.
ее Ъ
Replace throat plate by sliding it on from
the rear.
a
E
Da
Lock throat plate in place by moving lever to
the right.
Presser foot need not be removed for this
operation.
21
STRAIGHT STITCHING
AK3
LE ES (O MS E VD EU Ue
Set Selector at A K.
Red Lever at 3— TO locate stitching in central position.
General purpose throat plate and presser foot.
Use general purpose throat plate and presser foot for all utility sewing, long straight seams, etc., and
where there is occasion to alternate between straight and zigzag stitching.
STRAIGHT STITCH THROAT PLATE AND
PRESSER FOOT
Use the straight stitch throat plate and presser
foot where fabric and sewing procedure require
close control . . . for precision stitching of curved
and scalloped edges, top stitching, edge stitching,
etc.
nod
~~
Ут
mrss $Y ооо
a
Pa
гие $ $
prirent AO EAN RE wieesntt essa
For best results, this equipment should be used
when stitching sheer and filmy fabrics, knits and
tricots (particularly synthetics) and all soft spongy
materials.
22
[BBB AN PANN NN OA RNA
AR AN A HT
STRAIGHT STITCHING
SECONDARY POSITIONS
y а I ! 3
#10 440
| ; | | | >
ИХ В
р Hina | } | |
ao fit A E
1 IE I il 14%
! no !
I i I
1 Ni I
no E 1
ne Cam НИ
Set Selector at А К.
Red Lever at 1, 2, 4 or 5.
General purpose throat plate and presser foot. ‚
Do not make Red Lever adjustments while the needle is in the fabric.
To meet special requirements a line of stitching may be placed to the right or left of centre.
Red Le« 2r settings | and 2 locate stitching to the left. Settings 4 and 5 place it to the right. Interme-
diate settings may also be used.
23
PREPARE TO SEW
<
=
м TE
‚3
£
u.
N |
NF
A
Pull end of bobbin thread through plate and place
presser foot.
24
both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under
SEWING A SEAM
дан TAC
o
Set stitch regulator for stitch length desired. Position
lower presser foot. Raise stitch regulator to reverse.
Sat
4,
oe
Nye on ra
2 ANS
г
we
Back stitch to edge
stitch regulator.
Ze
и
2,
SF
y
EC
ps
nas AD
wo ue
ns
Re
A
шк
ео
RPI
ме
деи, ^
avé
pe
ag AT
„ем
SOMA
Wd ud
wn
му
К
Zo
oro errs A
2 po PES
La epics
BARRA,
Back stitch to reinforce end of seam, and lower regulator to forward stitching position.
With take-up lever at highest point, raise presser foot and remove fabric.
26
nares те
eas
E.
ie
pS
of fabric for reinforcement. Lower regulator for forward stitching of seam. Raise
25
&
= A,
Some?
od
GUIDING AND
SUPPORTING FABRIC
RIOTS
ini AE
A
AAS
#
A
‚ RANMA 0
ring +
A,
a
mv ve
Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot.
being stitched.
Fabrics of unusual texture and weave, filmy sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc. require support while
For such fabrics, use the straight stitch throat plate and presser foot, and apply gentle tension to the
seam by holding the fabric in front and in back of the presser foot as illustrated.
27
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
Decrease
Increase
To decrease pressure, turn thumb screw upward.
To increase pressure, turn screw downward.
Pressure is the force the presser foot exerts on fabric while it is
being stitched.
Smooth, even handling of several thicknesses of fabric results when
pressure is correctly regulated.
Too light a pressure will result in irregular feeding which affects
both quality of stitch and evenness of seams.
Too heavy a pressure not only affects stitch and seam quality but
will mar smooth surfaces and pile fabrics.
28
Surface finish, as well as the weight and texture of the fabric, must
be considered in determining the amount of pressure needed.
NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
STRAIGHT STITCHING
[NAN
ED.
fo]
ET DATA TN,
sn te
- pte ey
fe a Se
mita os,
pct
LRT ий
зн
а
api VIE 4
Needle thread tension too light — TT
Needle thread tension too loose —
correct by setting dial to lower num- correct by setting dial to higher num-
ber. ber.
A perfectly locked stitch results with upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin
threads are drawn equally into fabric.
29
BOBBIN THREAD TENSION
STRAIGHT STITCHING
ВО 3: Se
2
К e
COLA
ERE Re E AA CL АЕ
ds [RS [ENS MENTA PASO PERO PU 8
AD | CL) | Edd | EZ | EZ) y KE) 7 | Ue
A D
Bobbin thread tension too tight — Bobbin thread tension too loose —
correct by turning screw in direction correct by turning screw in direction
indicated. indicated.
Ne)
3 PO ES RES OS
CEE
EN ANI SOS
A perfectly locked stitch results with the upper and lower tensions balanced so that needle and bobbin
threads are drawn equally into fabric.
30
ZIGZAG STITCHING EQUIPMENT
General purpose throat plate.
Special purpose presser foot.
General purpose presser foot.
31
STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT FOR SATIN STITCHING
The upper indented area of the stitch indicator provides a means
of gradually shortening the stitch length.
As the regulator knob is turned, the pointer rides deeper into this
indentation until a closed satin stitch is obtained.
The exact stitch setting will vary with the texture of the fabric.
It is advisable to make a test on a scrap of self fabric, using the Spe-
a g ;
2 $ Reason OT i “5
Na mo $
| Lx оо
x a м,
НОО
cial Purpose Foot, before proceeding with the actual work.
32
SATIN STITCH
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Satin stitching requires a lighter needle thread
tension than straight stitching or open designs. The
wider the satin stitching the lighter the tension
required.
Wide satin stitching, Red Lever at 5, requires …
the least amount of tension. For narrower satin
stitching slightly more tension should be used. 0
To determine correct tension setting, a test
sample should be made on self fabric using the
Special Purpose Foot. A properly balanced satin
stitch should lie flat across the material. Any taut-
ness or puckering indicates too high a needle thread
tension.
Some soft fabrics may require the addition of a
backing to insure good stitching results. Crisp
organdy and lawn are suitable for this purpose.
Tight needle thread Correct needle thread
tension tension
33
PRIMARY PATTERNS
See pages 18 and 19 for operation of Red Lever and Selector.
Ся
SPECIAL
Ду соо
В a
ce
O
Selector settings L through special control primary patterns.
Selector setting B places stitching in central needle position.
Red Lever controls width of primary patterns.
Do not make selector or Red Lever adjustments while the needie is in the fabric.
ми
eel
*
BEN
rp—O0OmMmon 0
PRIMARY PATTERNS
SPECIAL DISCS
These five interchangeable Special Discs, classified as Primary Patterns, are included with the ma-
chine. Each produces an individual design.
Circled numbers (for example @) in this book indicate Special Disc numbers.
35
PRIMARY PATTERNS
REPLACEMENT OF SPECIAL DISCS
PIP BONES ANAND
a A
и A
A
и 7
я pr. -
5 pei и:
oF
Pad
my
MN AA fre A
$
oe
To replace any of these discs, move right hand pointer of Selector off Special.
Raise the stitch chart at top of the machine. Remove disc and place another disc onto spindle, pushing
downward until disc snaps in place. |
Set right hand pointer on Special to engage the disc.
36
PRIMARY PATTERNS
RED LEVER CONTROL OF WIDTH
The width of Primary Patterns is controlled by the Red Lever. Settings range from a maximum of 5 to
a minimum of 2.
37
PRIMARY PATTERNS
NEEDLE POSITIONS
Selector setting of B places stitching in central
needle position. Selector settings A and C place the
stitching in left and right needle positions at widths
less than 5.
LEFT A = =
CENTRE B RENEE
RIGHT (CC zum
Selector setting B is preferred. Settings A and C
are only used when special placement of stitching
is desired. For example: buttonholes, button sew-
ing, blind stitching.
38
COMBINATION PATTERNS AND VARIATIONS
| JL2
JL3 L JL4
A great variety of additional stitch patterns can be created by combining any left hand Selector setting
from D through J with any right hand Selector setting from L through Special.
A Red Lever setting of 3 results in a Combination Pattern. Settings of 2 and 4 produce Variations.
39
TWO NEEDLES
The needle clamp accommodates two 15X1
needles, generally of the same size. However,
where special effects are desired, needles of
different sizes may be used together, with
corresponding threads. Loosen the thumb
screw and insert the additional needle from
the right. (See page 6 for procedure.)
LONG GROOVES
TOWARD YOU
40
TWO NEEDLES
UPPER THREADING
Use size 50 mercerised cotton thread.
Thread as for single needle (see page 10). Be sure threads are separated by the centre tension disc.
Carry only one thread through the last guide before the needle.
41
TWO NEEDLES
STRAIGHT STITCHING AK 2
Selector setting: A K.
Red Lever: 2 only.
General purpose foot and throat plate.
NARNIA
mn
PANNES CS SA MAN SPL
42
TWO NEEDLES
PRIMARY PATTERNS
Selector setting: A -L through special.
Red Lever: 2 or 3 maximum.
General purpose throat plate.
General purpose foot or special purpose foot.
43
This light, flexible foot
is designed for satin stitch-
ing. It provides maximum
visibility and maneuver-
ability while allowing
closely spaced zigzag
stitches to feed freely.
It is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitch-
ing in buttonholes, monograms, motifs and applique
work.
The eyelet on the left side of the foot accommod-
ates a filler cord.
APPLICATIONS
Buttonholes Decorative Stitching
Applique Couching
Monograms Motifs
44
BUTTONHOLES
Selector: AL
Red Lever: See below
Throat plate: General purpose
Special purpose foot
Stitch length: Fine
To establish the correct stitch setting and length
of buttonhole, a sample must first be made.
Three Red Lever settings are available. Fabric
weight will determine the selection.
Dicen naa
BUTTONHOLES
Marking Length of Bar tacks and
lines cutting space side stitching
The length of cutting space, the opening through which the button passes, is measured by the width
and thickness of the button.
The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting space plus '/s inch for bar tacks.
Work a sample buttonhole in the same fabric as the garment. Use a double fold, duplicating a facing,
and include interfacing if this has been used.
45
BUTTONHOLES
Stitching Procedure. Set Selector and Red Lever. Place work under the needle, aligning the centre
marking of buttonhole with centre score line of foot.
To form side stitching, turn hand wheel toward you so the needle enters fabric at point A. Lower foot
and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise foot, pivot work on needle. Lower
foot. Take one stitch without changing Red Lever setting, bringing work to point C. Adjust to Red Lever
setting for bar tacks and take no less than six stitches. Stop at point D. Readjust to Red Lever setting
for side stitching. Complete to point E, or approximately six stitches from the end of the buttonhole.
Move to Red Lever setting for bar tacks and duplicate tack previously made, ending at point F.
46
BUTTONHOLES
To secure stitching move Red Lever to No. 1 set-
ting and take three stitches. Remove work, draw
threads to the underside, fasten and trim.
With sharp embroidery scissors cut opening for
button.
Raised or Corded Buttonholes. Both No. 8 pearl
cotton and buttonhole twist make suitable filler
cords for raised buttonholes.
Place the spool of filler cord on the second spool
pin. Carry the cord through the first thread guide,
straight down between the centre and back tension
discs, into the large thread guide and then through
the eyelet on the Special Purpose Foot. Draw the
cord under and in back of the foot and proceed as
for regular buttonholes.
47
APPLIQUE
Applique adds beauty and interest to wearing
apparel, linens and fabric furnishings.
Either contrasting or self fabric may be used
effectively. The most versatile stitch in applique-
ing is a closely set zigzag stitch (Primary Pattern
BL). The width of this stitch may be varied to ac-
commodate weaves and textures of fabrics. Com-
bination Patterns and Variations present many in-
teresting ways to applique with decorative stitch-
ing.
Preparation. There are two methods by which
applique work may be done. The appropriate me-
‘пой is determined by the fabric being used, and
a test sample is advisable.
Position the design properly and baste it to the
fabric. Attach the Special Purpose Foot to the pres-
ser bar.
48
Method No. 1. Set Selector and Red Lever for the
desired stitch pattern. Following the shape of the
design, outline it entirely with applique stitching.
Any excess fabric on the outer edges is trimmed
away after the stitching has been completed.
‘APPLIQUE
Method No. 2. Set Selector and Red Leverto AK 3
for straight stitching. Outline the entire design with
a short stitch. Trim the raw edges down to the
stitching.
Set Selector and Red Lever to the stitch pattern
desired, and overedge the design with this stitch-
ing. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which requi-
res no additional trimming.
Corded Applique. The Special Purpose Foot,
which provides for a filler cord, is perfect for cord-
ed applique work. Gimp, crochet thread or button-
hole twist are generally used.
See page 47 for threading.
Either method of appliqueing may be used when
cording is desired. The only change in procedure is
the introduction of the cord, over which the appli-
que stitching is formed.
This stitching technique results in a raised, di-
mensional effect, and is an ideal finish for lace ap-
plique.
MONOGRAMS
Any of the many stitch patterns are perfect for
monograms and motifs,
Select a design from the many transfer patterns
available or sketch one to suit your purpose.
Some fabrics may require a backing of lawn or
organdy.
Position the design on the right side of the ma-
terial. Trim backing away when stitching is comp-
leted, if necessary.
AND MOTIFS
To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pat-
tern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the de-
sired point in the design is reached.
Remove the material from under the presser foot.
Now position motif or monogram under the needle.
Lower presser foot and stitch.
This procedure is recommended for all precise
design placement. Leaves, and flower petals, for
example are created in this way.
SEAMING SHEERS
Selector: BL
Red Lever: 2
Throat plate: General Purpose
Special purpose foot
Stitch length: Fine (above 25)
A dainty hair-line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and
yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated.
Both heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 47 for threading).
Follow the seam outline covering the cord. Cut away seam allowance close to line of stitching.
Turn and press.
COUCHING
Novel effects are obtained by couching gimp,
yarn or braid with stitch patterns.
Spaced patterns are the most appropriate as they
allow the decorative cords to show as part of the
design.
The Special Purpose Foot is ideally suited to this
work.
LACE EDGING AND INSERTION
Delicate and Durable zigzag stitching is especi-
ally appropriate for the application of lace edgings
and insertions.
Many decorative stitch patterns can be used
effectively serving as both finish and trim.
52
This short, open foot
accommodates any size
sewthrough button, and
holds it securely for stit-
ching. The groove in the foot allows for insertion
of a machine needle, over which a thread shank
may be formed.
Selector: AL
Red Lever: 1 and 4
Throat plate: Raised
General purpose
Button sewing foot
The space between the holes in the button determines the Red Lever settings. Numbers one and four
generally apply to standard buttons. The number one setting is constant, but four can be increased or
decreased to accommodate buttons with unusual spacing.
Set Selector at AL and Red Lever at 1. Raise throat plate. Position button under foot so that needle
will enter into left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of fabric and
1s just above the foot.
53
BUTTON SEWING FOOT
Set Red Lever at 4. The needle should then enter
into the right hole of the button. Take approxima-
tely six zigzag stitches in this position. End on the
left side.
To fasten stitching, adjust to number one Red
Lever setting and take approximately three stit-
ches.
THREAD SHANK
In order to form a shank, stitching is done over
a regular machine needle. Position button and
lower button foot. Place needle in the groove of
the foot so the point enters the hole.
A larger shank results when the heavy end of
the needle is utilized.
Used with the general purpose throat plate this
foot provides a wide needle slot which accom-
modates all stitch settings and can be used for most
sewing operations.
APPLICATIONS
Automatic Scalloping
Seam Finishes
Seams and Darts
Mending and Maintenance
20000000050000000080088
SEAMS
LINGERIE SEAMS
Dainty lingerie seams are made durable and rip-
proof with zigzag stitching (BL 2'/2). After straight
stitching the fitted seam on the wrong side, press
both seam allowances in the same direction. From
the right side, top stitch with a fine zigzag setting,
letting the needle enter the seam line and then the
seam thickness. Particularly good where flat bias
seams are desired.
SEAMS
FLAT FELLED SEAMS
Zigzag stitching gives strength and durability
to flat felled seams.
Form the seam to the right side of the fabric,
taking full seam allowance, using a zigzag stitch
(BL 3).
Press the seam open, then fold and press the
two edges together, keeping the right side of the
zigzag stitch uppermost.
Trim away half the under seam edge.
Fold the upper seam edge evenly over the trim-
med seam, and top stitch.
KNIT FABRIC SEAMS
A fine zigzag stitch (BL 112 ) is ideal for seaming
knit fabrics. Particularly desirable for underarm
seams, or other seams where elasticity and give
are needed.
For neckline and waistline seams, where a stay
is needed to prevent undue stretching, this same
stitch can be used to apply seam tape. To insure
a flat, smooth finish, position the seam tape with
the edge exactly on the seam line. If seam is cur-
ved, pre-shape tape to fit by steaming, and baste
in place.
Stitch, allowing the needle alternately to enter
the seam tape and seam line.
IIIT EH
Hii
i | НИНЫ UE
o
SEAM FINISHES
Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish where fabrics have a tendency
to ravel.
The zigzag stitch BL is ideal for such finishing. Place the stitching near the edge of the seam allowance,
and then trim away excess fabric.
For an overedged seam, the blind stitch BO makes a durable bulkless finish. Good for straight grain,
lengthwise seams.
Seam edges should be trimmed evenly, and the stitch then formed over the raw edge.
DARTS
Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and SINGLE THREAD DARTS
should be accurately stitched. Darts add styling and interest when stitched with
the fold to the outside of garment. Thread ends
at the point of the dart are eliminated when the
single thread principle is employed.
A straight stitch dart (AK 3) is usually formed
by stitching from the seam edge, tapering grad-
ually to the point, where the last 3 or 4 stitches
parallel the fold. Stitch beyond the fabric to form Unthread the needle. Use the thread leading off
a thread chain "2 to % inch in length. Tie the thre- {he bobbin and rethread the needle from back
ad ends into a single knot close to the stitching. to front. Tie bobbin and upper threads together.
Draw bobbin thread up
through threading points,
winding enough on the
spool to complete a single
dart. Lower the needle
into the very edge of the
fold at the point of the
dart. Take any slack out
of the thread by turning
the spool. Lower the pres-
ser foot and stitch care-
fully toward the seam
edge.
This method is also
ideal for inside darts in
sheer fabrics as thread
ends are eliminated at the
point of the dart.
58
DARTS IN INTERFACING
Non-woven interfacings can be shaped without
bulk with zigzag stitching. Selector setting BL or
BQ may be used.
Cut out the dart allowance on the stitching line
and bring the raw edges together. Pin, over a
muslin stay, and stitch. Back stitch at both ends.
BLANKET BINDING
The multiple stitch zigzag (BQ) is an excellent
stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords
both a decorative and durable finish. Remove worn
Я $ У Ty e
2 ARAN IS a
IT TA,
a lr кол AD
aaa
VAR SIA ERA MES ok
NRA EE A A 5
y IRENE
binding. Baste new binding securely in place and
stitch. Adjust pressure if necessary, to accommo-
date the thickness of the blanket.
59
MENDING
Zigzag stitching is well suited for all types of
household mending. Selector setting BQ provides
a firm, flexible bond for the repair of rents and
tears, and is ideal for the reinforcement and ap-
plication of elastic. Stitch length and width are
regulated according to need.
Rent or Tear. Trim away ragged edges. Place
an underlay to the wrong side of the tear for rein-
forcement. Using the multiple stitch zigzag (BQ)
follow the line of the tear bringing the edges to-
gether. Shorten the stitch length at ends and cor-
ners to give extra strength.
WS
>
AN
re
я
S
S
№
x
©
e
€
rx
Zz
©
Z
<
+
Application of Elastic.
Elastic, such as used in
waist bands, must be
stretched as it is applied,
to insure fullness re-
quired in the garment.
60
SCALLOPING
Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as self trimming on blouses, dresses, lingerie and chil-
dren's wear.
Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automatically at Selector Settings BR and
BR results in a 12-stitch scallop.
BS Q, a 24-stitch scallop.
Stitch regulator and Red Lever settings vary the length and depth of the scallop.
After stitching, trim seam allowance to less than '/s“ and clip into the points between scallops.
Some fabrics may also need notching, for a smooth, evenly turned edge.
Turn, gently roll out scallops between the fingers and press.
When scalloping a shaped or bias edge it is best to use an interfacing.
When forming scalloped tucks, add an extra 14“ to tuk allowance for seaming.
Th eee,
--
© ©
>.
© ©
©
©
ны
<
ний
. N]
—… ee me ra be a - - a
nn
ray, tien ei
ptt, tet, SE TE
ma -
sta AT
„5
E
61
The seam guide aids
in attaining uniform-
ity of seam width. It
provides for stitching to be spaced at any distance
between 1/8” to 11" from the edge of the fabric.
APPLICATIONS
Blind Stitching
Decorative Stitching
Seams
Top Stitching
The attachment is used in connection with a
presser foot.
It is secured to the bed of the machine in either
of the threaded holes to the right of the needie.
62
SEAMS
To guide seam stitching straight and parallel to
the edge of the fabric, adjust the attachment for
proper seam width. Align the guide with the pres-
ser foot. (Set Selector at AK, Red Lever at 3.)
Pin seam edges and baste if necessary. Hand
basting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle fab-
rics. Place pins with the points toward the seam
edge so they nip into the fabric at the stitching
line. The hinged presser foot will ride freely over
the points. Guide the fabric edges lightly against
the guide while stitching.
Curved seams require additional treatment in TOP STITCHING
handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater A simple and practical way to accent the lines
elasticity and strength. Set the attachment at an of a garment and at the same time give additional
angle so that the end closest to the needle acts firmness.
as a guide.
Either single or multiple rows of stitching can
be expertly placed along lapels and facing edges,
around collars and pockets and as a hem finish.
A subtle effect may be achieved by using straight
stitching, or a decorative touch may be added by
using any of the attractive stitch patterns accom-
plished with this machine.
63
BLIND STITCHED HEMS
Selector: BO
Red Lever: 2-5
Stitch length: 10 - 20
Presser foot: General purpose
Throat plate: General purpose
Seam guide
Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish
that is almost invisible, and comparable to hand
sewing. It is equally suited to straight as well as
circular hems. Taped, bound, turned or unfinished hem edges can all be blind stitched with equal ease.
Mark, turn and press the hem in the usual way. Place a basting guide line approximately 1“ from top
hem edge. |
Set Selector at BO. This setting produces four straight stitches, separated by a single sideward stitch
to the left.
Red Lever setting for width of stitch is determined by the weight and texture of the fabric used.
Place the hem edge over the feed of the machine, turn back the bulk of the fabric to the line of
basting, creating a soft fold. | ,
E Er: pesa
Position the work so that the straight stitches are
made on the hem edge and the sideward stitches
pierce the fold.
The stitch length will regulate the distance bet-
ween the blind stitches (10 to 20 stitches per inch).
Adjust the seam guide over the right toe of the
foot until it rests next to the soft fold. While
stitching, feed the fold against the flat of the guide.
A test sample in self fabric should be made to
determine correct settings.
64
‘This foot is designed to facilitate the placement of stitching close
to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot insures even feeding
over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the
machine in place of the regular presser foot, and may be adjusted to
either the right or left side of the needle. Straight stitch or zigzag
settings may be used.
| APPLICATIONS
Zipper Insertions
Corded Seams
Preparation. Secure the zipper foot to the presser
Tubular Cording
Slip Cover Welting
screw at the back. Check the position of the foot by
lowering the needle into the side notch, making
bar as you would the regular presser foot. Set
Selector and Red Lever. Adjustment to the right
or left of the needle is made by loosening the thumb
ZIPPER INSERTION
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Zipper foot
Skirt Zipper. Machine baste the placket opening
of the skirt and press this seam open. Attach the
zipper foot to the machine and position it to the
right of the needle. Open the zipper. Place the
zipper face down on the seam allowance with the
edge of the teeth at the seam line. Turn the back
seam allowance away from the body of the skirt.
Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance.
66
tightening the thumb screw.
Ae
AAA
и сд
2
APM aa
A
sure it clears the foot. Lock it into position by
65
ЧА
-
E AAC PA
ADN ANS ANAL PP
POZA AA AA AAA m
[TE DBA ANA NADA e
AN ULT A DARA ALLA
ZUM => A
INN A 7 77.
ios
ys a LA
AAA A A
Vies A
ASIA
ZIPPER INSERTION
Move the foot to the left. Close the zipper and
turn it face up. Smooth back the seam allowance
at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch it to the tape 3
\
close to the folded edge. \
Ets ce
A
A
Turn zipper face down. Turn work to right side
and pin in place. Baste. Move the foot to the right.
Stitch across the lower end of the zipper and up
to the waistline. Remove basting.
67
BLIND STITCHED ZIPPER INSERTION
Blind stitching the final step of a zipper insertion Selector: BO
results in a fine finish that is almost invisible and Red Lever: 2V: or 3
comparable to hand sewing. Particularly suitable Throat vlate:
for chiffons, sheers, velvets and all delicate fabrics p -
General purpose
where top stitching would be too harsh.
Stitch length: 12
Zipper foot
Allow a 7/8" seam allowance. Start the insertion
in the usual way, through steps 1 and 2 (pages 66
Set stitch and adjust zipper foot to the right side
and 67) but omit final top stitching.
of the needle.
Turn garment inside out. Place zipper tape over
Work from the right side of the garment and pin feed of machine and turn back the front section of
the front of the zipper tape into position. garment to line of basting, creating a soft fold.
Position work so that the straight line of stitching
Roll the work over finger to ease fabric and pin 15 made through front seam allowance and zipper
through all thicknesses. Baste about 3/s" from seam
tape, and the sideward stitch pierces a few threads
line to provide guide for blind stitching. Remove
of the fold. Lower presser bar and stitch slowly.
pins. : Remove bastings. Press.
CORDED WELTING
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3
Throat plate: General purpose or
Straight stitch
Zipper foot
Cable cord comes in a variety of sizes and when covered with a firmly woven fabric makes a corded
welting that is an excellent seam finish.
This welting is prepared in advance and then stitched into the seam. Cut a true bias strip 1% inches
wide, plus three times the width of the cord of either self or contrasting fabric. Sew strips together on
the lengthwise grain to obtain desired length.
Set Selector. Adjust zipper foot to the left side of the needle. Encase the cord in the bias strip, raw
edges even. Lower presser bar. Stitch close to the cord, using a stitch length slightly longer than for
seaming the weight of fabric being used. Do not crowd the stitching against the cord.
A
I
Sl
il
| | Я = 3 -
Neem Sie
Ne A 3
7
69
CORDED SEAMS
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3
Throat plate: General purpose or
Straight stitch
Zipper foot
The corded seam is a typical treatment for slip
covers, children's clothes, blouses and lingerie.
When cording a seam the zipper foot is usually
adjusted to the right of the needle so that the bulk
of the work will fall to the left.
Set Selector and Red Lever. Attach the corded
welting to the right side of a single seam edge,
with the same stitch length used to make the
welting (page 69). Guide the edge of the foot next
to the cord, but do not crowd.
Place the attached corded welting over the
second seam edge, and pin or baste together.
Keep the first stitching uppermost as a guide and
position the seam under needle. Stitch, this time
crowding the foot against the cord.
This method produces evenly joined seam edges
and tightly set welting.
Curved seams are corded as easily as straight
seams, except that a shorter stitch length is used.
Since the seam allowance of the welting is bias,
it is not difficult to shape it to the seam.
Ze e LN 0S 58 SH
LA
e Nx A £ > пб e
& & = © € Ze 2% 4h > e Me
e
under the hemmer. Place the fabric under the foot
The narrow hemmer and stitch through the creased fold for several
forms and stitches a per- stitches. Hold the thread ends in the left hand and
fectly turned hem with- guide the raw edge in front of the hemmer evenly
out basting or pressing. into the scroll. Sew slowly, still holding thread
It is attached to the ma- ends until the hem is well started.
chine in place of the
regular presser foot.
Soft fabrics will enter the scroll best with the foot
down; firm, crisp materials with the foot raised.
Even feeding is essential to good hemming. The
APPLICATIONS same width of fabric must be kept in the scroll
Fine hems Hemming with lace of the hemmer at all times. A little practice will
Edging ruffles Lace insertion result in perfectly formed hems.
Sheer seams Lingerie finishes
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3 ———
Throat plate: General purpose “о
Foot Hemmer
Te
;
{
bo;
= /, 3
me
of!
Г ATA
HEMMING
Set Selector and Red Lever, At the very edge of
the fabric form a double 1/s" fold. Crease this fold
for about 2”. Draw the bobbin and needle threads
71
HEMMING WITH LACE
Selector: BL
Red Lever: 3
Throat plate: General purpose
Foot Hemmer
Most of the popular kinds of lace edging and
insertion can be applied with the Foot Hemmer.
It is an excellent way to trim children's clothes
and to finish lingerie hems.
Lace Applied Over Hem. Fold and start the hem
in the usual way. Starting about 1“ down from the
end of the lace, place the selvage under the needle
and lower needle to hold lace firmly. Raise the foot
slightly and slip the lace under the ‘back portion
of the foot, without disturbing the position of the
fabric. Stitch slowly, guiding the fabric with the
right hand, the lace with the left. Take care not to
stretch the lace.
derneath the fold of a hem, the procedure is the
same as when making a hemmed seam. Slip the
lace in from the left as you would the second piece
of fabric. This method is used where a neat finish
is desired on both sides of the material.
72
DECORATIVE HEMS
Selector: All settings
Throat plate: General purpose
Red Lever: 2 thru 5
Foot Hemmer
Narrow hem edges can be turned and decorated
in one operation using the foot hemmer and a
stitch pattern. |
This time-saving finish is especially suited to
ruffle edges and aprons.
Lingerie and most delicate fabrics can be at-
tractively finished with a shoft shell edge. This
effect is obtained by hemming with Selector set
at BO or BQ and Red Lever at 4.
с”
A
Y
J
LTD
epi,
PR
жом
|
y
Adjustin у
Tug 9 Scroll for
NN unfolded
a UN binding
O
©
Guide
Slots for pins
folded | |
bias tape
Centre slot
of scroll
The multi-slotted binder is used to apply com-
mercial binding as well as self fabric bias to an
unfinished edge.
This colourful trim is attractive when applied
to children's wear, aprons and fabric furnishings.
It is a practical finish for seam edges that ravel and
for making bound seams.
The attachment will accommodate both straight
and zigzag stitching.
74
Selector: All settings
Red Lever: 2 thru 5
Throat plate: General purpose
Multi-slotted binder
Cut binding diagonally to form a long point.
Commercial binding in sizes 1 to 5 is inserted from
the right into the appropriate slot in the scroll.
Unfolded bias 5/16 of an inch wide is inserted into
the opening at the end of the scroll.
Pull binding through scroll until the evenly
folded edges are under the needle. The free length
of the binding is held between the guide pins.
Set Selector and Red Lever for either straight
or zigzag stitching.
Insert the edge to be bound into the centre of
the scroll. The stitching is positioned close to the
edge of the binding by moving the scroll portion
of the attachment to the right or left by means of
the adjusting lug.
MULTI-SLOTTED BINDER
Lower the presser bar. Allow the attachment to do the work, merely guiding the fabric into the centre
of the scroll as you stitch.
Curved edges require slightly different fabric handling than straight edges.
Inside curves are straightened as they are fed into the binder. If the fabric is soft and has a tendency
to stretch, reinforce the edge with a single row of stitching before binding.
Outside curves tend to lead away from the centre slot of the scroll and should be guided so that a full
seam width is taken at the needle point. Do not attempt to pull or straighten fabric into the full length
of the scroll.
vz
Zu >
<<
zz
Fork
Arm
Adjusting
Lever
Adjusting
Finger
= X Adjusting
Screw
Separator
Blade
Ruffling
Blade
Separator
Guide
This attachment offers a simple and effective
way to make gathered and pleated ruffles. Ruffles
may be made separately or made and applied at
the same time. The ruffler is attached to the
machine in place of the regular presser foot and
is used with a straight stitch setting only.
76
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3
Throat plate: Straight stitch
Ruífler
Adjusting Points. 1. The adjusting lever sets the
ruffler for gathers or pleats. The Number 1 space
setting is for gathers, and places fullness at every
stitch. Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for
pleats, spacing them either 6 or 12 stitches apart.
The star is for straight stitching, and is used when
grouping gathers or pleats.
2. The adjusting finger is used only for pleating
and affects the width of the pleat. It is thrown
out of action by bringing it out of contact with the
adjusting screw.
3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of
gathers or pleats. When turned in to its limit with
the adjusting finger in place, the attachment is set
for its deepest pleat. When turned outward to its
limit and the adjusting finger out of action, the
ruffler gives only a hint of fullness.
THE RUFFLER
Activating Parts. The ruffling blade and the se-
parator blade are of blue steel and hold the material
to be gathered between them. The ruffling blade
forms the gathers or pleats by carrying the fabric
to the needle according to the spacing and fullness
to which the ruffler is adjusted. The separator guide
is slotted to guide seam edges evenly and to separ-
ate the ruffle strip from the material to which the
Gathering. Set the adjusting lever of the attach-
ment on Number 1 setting, and throw the adjusting
finger out of action. Turn the adjusting screw for
the amount of fullness desired and set the stitch
The attachment is
adjusted for maximum fullness by turning the ad-
length to space the fullness.
justing screw all the way in; for less fullness turn
it outward.
ruffle is attached.
Preparation. Raise the needle to its highest point.
Locate the attachment on the machine in place
of the regular presser foot, at the same time fit
the fork arm over the needle clamp screw. Make
sure both the presser bar screw and the needle
clamp screw are tightened securely.
77
THE RUFFLER
Attaching Ruffle. To form and attach a ruffle in
one operation, place the ruffle strip between the
two blue blades and through the first separator
guide, and the material to which it is to be attached
The length of the sewing machine stitch also
affects ruffle fullness. Since a given attachment
setting puts an equal amount of fullness into each
stitch regardless of its length, shortening the stitch
(more stitches to the inch) makes the ruffle more \ ON
full, lengthening the stitch (few stitches to the inch) о° — „ ©
makes it less full. For fine, closely spaced gathering : 1 \ Ruffling
use a short stitch and an outward adjustment of SZ f A - Material
the adjusting screw. For deeper, less closely spac- o aia | — =
ed gathering, turn the adjusting screw inward and a = == ПР Garment
use a medium length stitch.
between the separator blade and the feed of the
machine. Proceed as for plain gathering. Right
sides of the fabric are placed together when the
seam is to fall to the inside.
Material
Insert the material to be gathered between the
blue blades and through the first separator guide.
Draw to the back of the needle. Lower the presser
bar and stitch. The texture of the fabric influences
the performance of the ruffler as well as the re-
sults. Soft fabrics, cut on the crosswise grain, are
best adapted for gathered ruffles. Always test stitch
length and ruffler setting on a scrap of self fabric
before proceeding with the actual work.
78
THE RUFFLER
Pleating. Move the adjusting lever of the ruffler
to the space setting desired for pleats either 6 or
12 stitches apart.
For the deepest pleat, activate the adjusting
finger and turn the adjusting screw inward to its
maximum setting. For smaller pleats turn the
adjusting screw outward.
Set stitch length. A short stitch places the pleats
more closely together; a long stitch separates the
pleats for a greater distance.
Insert the fabric to be pleated between the blue
blades and into the first separator guide. Lower
presser bar and stitch.
Crisp fabrics cut on the crosswise grain form the
sharpest pleats. Glazed fabrics handle best if the
glazed side is downward and the soft backing is
next to the ruffler blade.
Group Pleating. By using the star setting (straight
stitching) alternately with the 6 or 12 stitch setting,
pleats are formed in groups. Even spacing between
groups is accomplished by counting the number of
stitches.
DARNING
Selector: AK
Red Lever: 3
‘Throat plate: Straight stitch (Raised)
With embroidery hoop guide
Presser foot: None
Stitch length: Finest
Household linens, children's clothes and knit
wear of all kinds can be repaired with the darn-
ing stitch.
Trim away ragged edges from area to be darned.
Centre worn section in embroidery hoops.
Attaching Embroidery Hoop Guide —
Raise throat plate and open slide plate. Posi-
tion hoop guide over throat plate as shown. Slide
hoop guide into place and close slide plate.
80
Position work under needle and lower pres-
ser bar. Hold needle thread loosely with left
hand, turn hand wheel over and draw bobbin thread
up through fabric with loop of needle thread. Hold
both thread ends and lower needle into fabric.
Outline opening with running stitches 4" from
edge for reinforcement.
Stitch across opening, moving hoops under need-
le at a slight angle, from lower left to upper right.
Keep lines of stitching closely and evenly spaced.
Run machine at a moderate speed and control
hoops with a steady movement. Slow movement
of hoops produces a short stitch; more rapid move-
ment lengthens the stitch. Longer stitches are best
for knit and tricot fabrics as they are softer and
more flexible when garment is worn. Short stitches
are best for cottons and linens as they approximate
weave of fabric and will withstand many launder-
ings.
FREE MOTION WORK
Selector: BL
Red Lever: 2—5
Throat plate: General purpose (Raised)
With embroidery hoop guide
Presser foot: None
Stitch length: Finest
Script monograms, satin stitched scallops and em-
broidery can be effectively accomplished with the
zigzag stitch when the free motion principle is
employed.
Trace or mark the design on the right side of
the fabric. Place the work in embroidery hoops,
keeping the fabric taut.
Remove the presser foot and raise the throat
plate. Set Selector at BL and Red Lever at desired
setting.
Position the work under the needle and lower
the presser bar to activate the tension. Bring the
bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both
thread ends and start stitching after positioning
needle in fabric.
Move the hoops slowly following the outline of
the design. Maintain an even rate of speed so that
the stitches are uniformly placed. Shading the
stitches from wide to narrow is controlled by the
angle at which the work is placed and moved under
the needle.
When scalloping is used as an edge finish, allow
sufficient margin of fabric beyond the desired edge
to fit the hoop. To maintain parallel stitches, scal-
lops are followed without turning, the work re-
maining in line with the feed at all times. The
points of the scallops are formed by lightly mov-
ing the work to the right or left, automatically
producing the effect of a narrower stitch.
Some fabrics may require the addition of an
underlay of crisp muslin or organdy. The darning
and embroidery foot (available separately) will also
contribute to the smooth handling of difficult ma-
terials as it provides a close control of both stitch
and fabric.
81
DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS
Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings
DP 4
DS (2) 2
DS © 3
EP 2
FO 2
FR 2
FS (M) 3
82
DECORATIVE STITCH PATTERNS
Examples of Stitch Patterns and their Selector Settings
Gs (@ 2
GS © 4
HS © 4
IL 2
s O 4
83
TO CLEAN THE MACHINE
Your sewing machine was built to exacting stand-
ards of precision and workmanship. Its performance
depends on the care and treatment it receives
when in use and before storing it away.
Clean and
Oil
When in regular use, the machine should be
cleaned periodically to remove the lint and fluff
which may have accumulated around the working
parts. To clean the bobbin case area, see instruc-
tions for removing and replacing bobbin case on
pages 85 and 86. Oil the machine after each cle-
aning as instructed on pages 87, 88 and 89.
If the machine is to be stored away for an in-
Clean between definite period of time, a thorough brush-cleaning
to remove all traces of lint and fluff, followed by
swabbing of all exposed parts with a lint-free brush
saturated with SINGER* Oil, is necessary to pro-
tect the machine against rust damage. The areas
that should be cleaned and covered with a protec-
tive coat of oil are shown in the illustration at the
left.
Clean and Oil
sl = ни
==
—
84
TO REMOVE AND REPLACE BOBBIN CASE
To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as
follows:
1. Remove throat plate (see page 21) and open
slide plate (see page 14).
2. Unlock bobbin case by lifting and pulling
holder to right as shown.
3. Remove bobbin case from machine.
4. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any
other foreign matter which might clog the machine.
85
POSITIONING
5. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of case
straddles positioning stud.
6. Push bobbin case holder to left as shown until it snaps down into lock position.
7. Close bed slide and replace throat plate.
86
TO LUBRICATE THE MACHINE
Use SINGER Oil and SINGER Lubricant!
Both are extra quality products especially pre-
pared for sewing machines, and should always be
used in the care of your 401.
RAO NON SORE FRIAR
RONNIE RSFSR ARCS RRR
CESSER
Clean the machine periodically as instructed on
page 84.
Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated.
Remove screws À and lift off arm top cover.
Apply a small amount of lubricant to the gears
as shown.
A tube of this lubricant can be purchased at your
Singer Sewing Centre.
Never apply Oil to these gears.
Swing
cated.
face plate to left and oil the places indi-
Open slide plate and apply a drop of oil to the
hook raceway as indicated.
Close slide plate, replace arm top cover and
close face plate.
м
Ч mba, a ui
DU py A un В : A
\ К
<
À
EROS ERAN
AE
5 ra EZ
J
==
=
Tilt machine back and remove thumb nut from screw B, being careful not to lose felt washer, and
remove cover from underside of machine.
Oil each of places indicated by arrows and occasionally apply a small quantity of lubricant to teeth
of gears as shown.
Replace bottom cover.
THE MOTOR REQUIRES NO LUBRICATION.
89
ELECTRICAL INFORMATION
The SINGER" Electric Motor in the electric ma-
chine is furnished for operation on an alternating
or direct current. Orders must state the catalogue
number of the motor, or the voltage, and in the
case of alternating current, the number of cycles.
Before Inserting Electric Plug A, be sure that
voltage and cycles stamped on electrical name-
plate B are within range marked on your electric
meter installed by your power company. |
Electrical Connections for Machine. Push 3-pin
1 3
od
EA $
y 3
A 3
E у
мото
UN 220
7
terminal plug C on 3-pin terminal block at right
of machine and connect plug A at other end of
cord to electric outlet.
Speed Controller. The speed of machine is regu-
lated by amount of pressure on the pedal of the
foot controller D or the knee lever.
90
SINGER* LIGHT
The light is turned „on“ or „off“ by the switch Е.
A
DNP COIN TINA,
Я x
NO IRN PO RIPE EPI E
Noam e
ve
ET лААРИУаА м
1
3 5
Ë 8
: c
$ =
G
To Remove Bulb. Remove screw H and lamp
cover E. Do not attempt to unscrew bulb. Press it | LOCKS
into socket and at same time turn bulb over in но ame
direction shown to unlock bulb pin G, then with- y ©
draw bulb. |
To Replace Bulb. Press new bulb into socket UNLOCKS
with bulb pin G entering slot of socket and turn
it over in direction shown to lock bulb pin G in
position. Replace lamp cover E and securely fasten
it in position with screw H.
91
TREADLE INFORMATION
To Replace Belt 2 €
Remove arm top cover as instructed on page 87.
Remove belt guard by removing screw at top
of guard. rn am р
Y
Insert end of belt into cutout A so that it enters Lead belt through guide C, around band wheel
groove in hand wheel. and into eye of belt shifter D.
Lead belt around hand wheel and down through Join both ends of belt. (Tension on belt should
hole provided in machine casting, as shown. be only heavy enough to keep belt from slipping.)
Insert opposite end of belt into cutout B in bed Replace arm top cover and belt guard.
of machine.
92
Operate treadle as instructed on pages 8 and 9.
INDEX
Page Page
Applique ‚ 48—49 Cording
Attachments Seams 70
Foot Hemmer . ‚ 71—73 Welting . 69
Multi-Slotted Binder ‚ 74—75 оао . а,
Ruffler . 7679 Бань 9 | "5859
Binding ‚ 74—75 Interfacing . 59
Blanket Binding, Replacing . 59 Single Thread . 58
Blind Stitching Decorative Hems 73
Hems ; 64 Decorative Stitch Patterns ‚ 82—83
Zipper Insertion 68 Designs and Motifs . 50
Bobbin Elastic
Case Threading 15 Applied Band . 60
Preparation for Stitching . 24 Girdle Repair . 60
. Electrical Information ‚ 90—91
Removing 14 Motor 90
Thread Tension . 30 SINGER Light . | 91
Winding ‚ НВ Embroidery: Free Motion . 80—81
Buttonholes | 44—47 Fabrics, Guiding and Supporting 27
Corded . ; 47 Features . 3
Button Sewing . 53—54 Principal Parts 16
Cleaning . : Lo . 84—86 Filler Cord, Threading 47
Combination Patterns and Variations 39 Finishes, Seam , 57
Illustrations . 82—83 Foot Hemmer ‚ 71—73
Corded Applique. 49 Decorative Hems . 73
Corded Buttonholes . 47 Hemming with Lace 72
93
Page Page
Free Motion Work . . 80—81 Needle and Thread Selection 5
Darning 80 Needle Thread Tension
Embroidery 81 Satin Stitching . 33
Monograms 81 Straight Stitching . 29
Satin Stitch Scallops 81 Needle Threading
Gathering 77 Single . 10
General Purpose Foot, Applications ‚ 55—61 Two : 41
Guiding and Supporting Fabric . 27 Oiling . 87—89
Hemming with Lace 72 Overcasting . 57
Hems Pleating . 79
Blindstitched 64 Prepare to Sew . 24
Decorative 73 Pressure Adjustments . 28
Interfacing Darts 59 Primary Patterns ‚ 34—38
Knit Fabric Seams 56 Needle Position 38
Lace Red Lever . . 37
Applique 49 Special Discs . 35—36
Edging and Insertion . . 52 and 72 Principal Parts of Machine . 16
Length of Stitch, Regulating 17 Red Lever
Light Bulb, Replacement . . 91 Combinations and Variations . 39
Lubricating ‚ 87—89 Control of Width . 37
Mending . . 60 Operation . 18
Monograms and Motifs . . 50 Removal and Replacement of Bobbin 14-15
Free Motion . 80—81 Removal and Replacement of Special Discs 36
Motor 90 Rent or Tear Mending 60
Multi-Slotted Binder . 74—75 Reverse Stitching
Needle Insertion . 6 and 40 Application ‚ 25—26
Needle Positions . . 23 and 38 Regulation . 17
94
Page Page
Ruffler . 76—79 Special Discs
Attaching Ruffle 78 Primary Patterns 35
Gathering . 77 Removal and Replacement . . 36
Pleating 79 Special Purpose Foot, Applications . ‚ 44—52
Satin Stitching Stitch Length
Stitch Length Adjustment . 32 Regulator 17
Tension Adjustment 33 Satin Stitch Adjustment 32
Scalloping ; 61 “Stitch Patterns |
Free Motion . 80—81 Combinations and Variations . . 39
Primary Patterns 34 Illustrations ‚ 82—83
Special Disc 35 Special Discs 35
Seam Finishes . 57 Stitch Selector, Operation 19
Seam Guide . . 62—64 Straight Stitching
Blindstitched Hems ; 64 Equipment and Settings . 22—23
Seams . 62—63 Seams , ‚ 25—26
Top Stitching . 63 Secondary Positions 23
Seams Two Needles 42
Corded 70 Tear or Rent Mending 60
Flat Felled ’ 56 Tension Adjustments
Knit Fabric 56 . :
Lingerie 55 Bobbin. . ` 30
Needle Thread 29
Sheer Fabrics . . 51 i Da
Straight 25—26 Satin Stitching . 33
Supporting and Guiding 27 Threading
Selector: Operation . 19 Bobbin Case 15
Sheer Fabric Seams . 51 Filler Cord 47
SINGER Service . v4 Single Needle . 10
Single Thread Darts . 58 Two Needles 41
95
Page Page
Throat Plate Welting : 69
Changing 21 Winding a Bobbin . 11—13
Positions 20 Zigzag Stitching
Straight Stitch . 22 Combinations and Variations . 39
Zigzag Stitch 31 Equipment . 31
Top Stitching 63 Needle Positions 38
Treadle Information Primary Patterns 34
To Replace Belt ; 92 Red Lever: Control of Widths . 37
Two Needles . 40—43 Special Discs . 35—36
Insertion 40 Stitch Length Adjustment | 32
Primary Patterns 43 Tension Adjustment 33
Straight Stitching . 42 Two Needles . 43
Threading . 41 Zipper Foot . ‚ 65—70
Variation and Combination Patterns ‘ 39 Welting and Corded Seams . 69—70
Illustrations ‚ 82—83 Zipper Insertion . 66—68
">