JANOME 639 Owner Manual

OPERATING INSTRUCTION
For your safety.....
1. Always turn off the power and unplug from the outlet.
When leaving the machine unattended.
When attaching or removing parts.
When cleaning the machine.
When the electric current is shut off. -
2. During operation, keep an eye on sewing area.
Do not touch moving parts such as the Thread take-
up lever, Hand wheel, Needle.
1 Names of parts
1.
Before sewing
Clean the machine with soft cloth to prevent oil and
dust from the machine.
Do not use thinner, benzine, etc. for cleaning.
. Do not use the machine except as described in these
instructions.
(1) Thread guide
(2) Thread take-up lever
(3) Tension dial unit
(4) Extension table
(® Presser foot lever
® Reverse lever
(7) Pattern selector dial
Hand wheel
(9) Bobbin winder stopper
(9 Bobbin winder spindle
dD Bobbin winder thread
guide
2 Spool pin
2 Free Arm sewing
3 Standard accessories
remove.
Extension table
the slot.
Standard accessories
are in vinyl bag
For Free Arm sewing, slide the
) Extension table to the left and
Accessory kit.
Standard accessories located
inside the Extension table. NA
Bobbins
u :
To replace Extension table.
Slide the Extension table along
the Free Arm inserting tab into DD Needles
1 D
Seam ripper
Felt Buttonhole foot
4 Power Connection
5 Speed Control
2 Power plug
oe Machine
plug
Power outlet
Insert the Power plug into the Power Outlet.
(1) Insert the Machine plug into the Machine socket.
* Pull out the Power plug when the Machine is not in use.
120V Model 240V Model
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The Foot Control regulates sewing speed.
To increase speed, press down with foot.
To decrease speed, release foot pressure.
7 Needle removal and replacement
6 Adjust the Presser foot lever
He)
At
PF
The Presser foot lever raises and lowers the Presser
foot.
You can raise it about 1/4” higher than normal up
position.
This helps when removing the Foot or when sewing
thick material.
Presser foot lever
Pin
Tighten
ï
| Loosen
(To remove the Needle)
Loosen the Needle
clamp screw by turning it
toward you.
Remove the Needle by
pulling it downward.
(To replace the Needie)
Insert new Needle into
the Needle clamp with
flat side away from you.
Push the Needle up as
far as it will go.
Tighten the Needle
clamp screw firmly with
the Screw driver.
8 Sewing light
9 Spool pin
Face plate
To replace Bulb
Set screw
@ Loosen the Set screw and
remove the Face plate by
swinging it to the direction of
Bulb arrow.
(2 Turn Bulb counterclockwise
to remove.
(3) Turn the Bulb clockwise to
replace.
Felt
The Spool pin holds the spool of the thread for feeding
into the Machine.
To use, turn the Spool pin to the back.
10 Removal and replacement the Bobbin case
Open
Open the Hook cover.
Raise the Needle by turning the Hand
wheel toward you.
Lift the Latch and pull out the Bobbin case.
When inserting the Bobbin case,
place the Finger into the recess of the
Hook race.
11 Winding the Bobbin
®
Bobbin
winder
Bobbin winder
i a
O
D
©
@
the thread.
(6) Push the handwheel in.
machine.
(1) Pull the handwheel out to the right.
(2) Pull the thread from the spool and draw it around the thread guides.
(3) Draw the thread through one of the holes in the bobbin from inside to outside, put
the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle and push to right.
(4) Hold the free end of the thread in your hand and depress the foot control.
(5) Stop the machine when it has made a few turns. Cut the thread close to the hole in
the bobbin . Depress the foot control again.
When the bobbin is fully wound, push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and cut
Note: When you move the bobbin winder spindle, do not operate your sewing
12 Threading the Bobbin case
Bobbin case
Thread
Bobbin
(D Place the Bobbin into the
Bobbin case.
Make sure the Thread unwinds
in direction of ARROW.
(2) Pull the Thread into the Bobbin
case slot.
Tension spring
Delivery eye
(3) Draw the T hread under the
Tension spring and into the
Delivery eye.
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches)
of the Thread.
13 Threading the Machine
Thread take-up
lever Needle bar
thread guide
Needle
Raise the Thread Take-up lever to its highest position by turning the Hand Wheel toward you.
Raise the Presser foot.
(D Place the Spool on the Spool pin as shown, with the thread coming from the front of the Spool.
(2) Draw the thread around the Thread guide as shown.
(3) Draw the thread around the Thread guide plate as shown.
(4) Puil the thread up, then through the Thread take-up lever from right to left.
(5) Draw the thread and slip it into the Needle bar thread guide.
(6) Thread the Needle eye from front to back. Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the thread.
14 Drawing up the Bobbin thread
Bobbin thread
(D Raise the Presser foot while Turn the Hand wheel with (3) Pull both threads to the back
holding the Needle thread your right hand until the of the Machine under the
lightly with your left hand. Needle thread picks up the Presser foot.
Bobbin thread.
OPERATING INSTRUCTION:
The symbol “0” of a switch indicates the “off” position of a switch.
“For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other).
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet
only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.
Do not,modify the plug in any way.”
"Foot Controller Model YC-482J or TJC-150 for use with Sewing Machine Model 639."
(For U.S.A. Marker Only)
15 Stitch selection
16 Reverse lever
NES
Ne
180
Setting mark
. Turn
. Raise the Needle above the
fabric.
the Dial until the
desired stitch pattern is at
the Setting mark.
Do not turn the dial while the
Needle
(The Needle may break.)
1233
is in the material.
VAT AT
-
-
-
-
33
As long as you keep the Reverse lever
depressed, the Machine sews backwards.
17 Straight stitch sewing
Machine setting
Stitch
15 25 4
Thread tension dial
Before sewing
Raise the Presser foot and position the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the Needle plate.
Lower the Needle into the fabric.
Lower the Presser foot and smooth the threads
toward the back.
Depress the Foot control.
* To fasten the beginning of a seam, press the Reverse
lever and sew several reverse stitches.
wheel toward you
Stop the Machine and turn the Hand
Needle down into the fabric.
Raise the Presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the Needle to
change sewing direction as shown.
to bring the
Seam ends, thread cutting
To fasten seam ends, press the
Reverse lever and sew several
stitches.
Raise the Presser foot and
remove the fabric, drawing the
threads to the back.
Thread cutting groove
Cut the threads end by inserting
them in the Thread cutting
groove as shown.
18 Zigzag stitching and Overcasting
Machine setting
Stitch
2 35 5
Thread tension dial
This type of stitch is used to
prevent fabrics from fraying at
the edges.
* Before the actual sewing, try sewing with a piece of
similar fabric to
find the correct thread tension.
<Thread tension for Zigzag
sewing >
To obtain better Zigzag
stitches, the upper tension
should be slightly weaker
than normal. The upper
thread appear slightly on the
wrong side of the fabric.
19 Tricot stitch
Machine setting
Stitch
A A
У
#
NINO
v v
-
Thread tension dial
3~6
Place the fabric under the Presser foot so that the edge
is just inside the right side of the Presser foot.
Guide the work so the right-hand stitches fall at the
edge of the fabric.
20 Sewing Buttonholes
Machine setting
Stitch
Cl El
Thread tension dial
1~5
Buttonhole foot
Needle
thread
M Bobbin thread
Stitch selector dial
Needle or Pin
seam ripper
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Changing the Presser
foot
Loosen the thumb screw
and replace the presser
foot.
Tighten the thumb screw.
* Make a test Buttonhole using the same fabric and interfacing as the actual garment.
<Procedure>
(1) Raise the Needle and set the Stitch
selector dial to |.
Slide both threads to the left.
Lower the Needle into the garment
where the Buttonhole is to start, and
lower the Buttonhole foot.
(2 Sew down the left side stopping at the
bottom mark(B).
(3) Raise the Needle and set the Stitch
selector dial to HE
Sew 5 stitches of bartack and stop the
Machine.
(4) Raise the Needle and turn the Stitch
selector dial to Я.
Sew up the right side of the Buttonhole,
stop the Machine when you are directly
opposite the first stitch on the left hand
side. |
(5) Raise the Needle and set the Stitch
selector dial to 14! .
Sew 5 stitches of Bartacks and raise
the Needle from the fabric.
(6) Raise the Presser foot, remove the
fabric from the Machine and cut the
sewing threads.
(Leave 10 cm fortifying)
(7) Insert a Pin at the end ot the Button
hole, as shown, then cut the opening
with a Seam ripper.
Take care not to cut the stitches.
Sewing Corded Buttonholes
(1) With the Buttonhole foot raised, hook the filler cord
on the Spur on the back of the Foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the Foot until they
clear the front end.
Hook the cord ends into the Forks on the front of
the Foot to hold them tight.
(2) Lower the Needle into the fabric where the
Buttonhole will start and lower the Foot. Sew as you
would a normal buttonhole (See above).
(3 Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it, and cut.
21 Blind hemming
Machine setting
Stitch
3 3
Thread tension dial
X
Wrong side
of fabric
<Procedure>
(1) Fold up the fabric as
illustrated.
(2) Lower
stitching
better control so that the
Zigzag stitches fall on
the Hem allowance and
pierce the soft fold.
the
slowly
Foot,
for
y
Wrong side
of fabric
Right side
of fabric
(3) Spread the fabric flat
with the right side facing
up.
22 Shell tuck
Machine setting
Stitch
>
Thread tension dial
<Procedure >
Place the folded edge
on the right forming a
along the slot on the Foot.
The Needle should fall off the edge of the fabric
Tuck.
23 Balancing Needle thread tension
Correct thread
Straight stitches
tension for
The Needle thread is too tight.
SEITE
es
—
The Needle thread is too loose.
AORTA
Decrease Tension
Increase Tension
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Setting mark
Setting mark
24 Matching Fabric, Thread and Needle Types.
* In general, Fine threads and Needle are used
Fabric Thread Needle
Crepe de Chine, Fine Silk 49
Fine Voile, Lawn Fine Cotton #11
Organdy, Georgette. | Fine Synthetic.
Cotton, Pique, 50 Silk #11
Normal | Serge, 50-80 Cotton #14
Percale. 50-60 Synthetic
Denim, Tweed, 50 Silk #14
Heavy | Gabardine, 40-50 Cotton 416
Coating. 40-50 Synthetic
for sewing thin fabrics, and Thicker threads
and Needle are used with Heavy fabrics.
Always test Thread and Needle size on a
small piece of fabric which will be used for
actual sewing.
Use the same Thread for Needle and Bobbin.
When sewing Stretch, very Fine Fabrics and
Synthetic, use a Blue Tip Needle.
CARE OF YOUR MACHINE
25 Cleaning the Feed dog
plate.
(1) Remove the Needle and the Presser foot.
(2) Remove the Needle plate screws and remove the Needle
(3 Clean out dust and lint clogging
brush.
E
on the Feed dog teeth with a
(4) Replace the Needle plate.
26 Dismantling and Assembling Hook race
of the Machine.
Hook race holders
(1) Raise the Needle to its highest
position and open the Hook
cover. Open the Bobbin case
latch and pull the Bobbin out
Bobbin case
latch
Hook race ring Shuttie hook
(2) Open the Hook race holders
and remove the Hook race ring
and Shuttle hook.
directions in reverse.
(3) Clean the Hook race with a
Brush and a Soft dry cloth.
(4) Clean the Shuttle hook.
(5) Replace all parts by following
27 Trouble shooting
Problem Cause Setting
1. The Needle thread is not threaded properly. See No.13
2. The Needle thread tension is too tight. See No. 23
The Needle thread breaks. | 3. The Needle is bent or blunt. See No. 7
4. The Needle is incorrectly inserted. See No. 7
5. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the Needle. See No. 24
1. The Bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the Bobbin case. See No.12
The Bobbin thread breaks. | 2. The Bobbin case tension spring set screw is too tight. See No.12
3. Lint has collected in the Bobbin case. See No. 26
1. The Needle is incorrectly inserted. See No. 7
The Needle breaks. 2. The Sich selector dial has been turned while the Needle was in the See No.15
3. The Needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn. See No. 24
1. The Needle is incorrectly inserted or bent. See No. 7
2. The Needle and/or Thread is not suitable for the materia! being sewn. See No. 24
Skipping stitches 3. A Blue tip needle is not being used when sewing Stretch, very Fine See No. 24
fabrics, Synthetics.
4. The Needle thread is not threaded properly. See No. 13
. 1. The Needie thread tension or Bobbin thread tension is too tight. See No. 23
Seam puckerin
puexering 2. The Needle and/or Bobbin thread are not threaded properly. See No. 12, 13
; 1. The Needle thread tension is too loose. See No. 23
Stitches form loops
below the work. Р 2. The Needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread. See No. 24
3. The Needle and/or Bobbin thread are not threaded properly. See No. 13
The cloth is not feeding. 1. The Feed dog is packed with lint. See No. 25
The Machine does not 1. The Feed dog or Shuttle hook area is packed with lint. See No. 25, 26
work (Noise, Slow speed). | 2. The Shuttle hook needs to be oiled. | See No. 26
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