V2.01 (re


Add to my manuals
31 Pages

advertisement

V2.01 (re | Manualzz

G-480

V2

V2.01 (re-groove)

Span 45” / Length 44” / Area 400 Sq.” / Weight 22-28oz

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 1 of 43

WARRANTY

Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 2 of 43

GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens Aeromodel G-480v2 – (Re-Groove). This kit provides the builder and pilot a refreshing change of pace from heavy “ARF” style plywood box airframe construction and blends stick and tissue design methods of the past with state of the art CAD technology and precision interlocking laser cut parts; the result is something you will find truly exceptional to build and fly. Please keep in mind that this kit is intended for a novice-intermediate builder and intermediate-advanced pilot. If you do not meet these criteria it is recommended to seek help from a more experienced builder / pilot.

Best Regards,

Bill Stevens

Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits”

1528 S. Nevada Ave. - Colorado Springs, CO – 80906 – USA www.stevensaero.com

Assembly Tips

1. Review these instructions and the plan sheet prior to starting any work!

2. Protect your work surface from glue spills; the poly bag that this kit came in doubles as a work surface protector as CA glue will not readily adhere to it.

3. Glue all joints with a thin penetrating CA glue unless otherwise specified.

4. Do not remove parts from the balsa sheets until you require them.

5. Prior to beginning the build process, lightly sand both sides of the balsa sheet wood with your sanding block to removing any residue left from the laser cutting process.

6. Do not force fit parts – when in doubt double check your parts, plans, and instructions. Laser cutting is exceptionally accurate, however, due to the slight variance in wood thickness from the balsa mill, some joints will be exceptionally snug it is recommended that each part be worked into position slowly by rocking the part back and forth. I like to use a sanding block to knock the edge off of the interlocking tab components to ease assembly. If you feel that you have a poor connection check first to see that the part is not upside down.

Reference each piece against the plan sheet or photo.

7. Making solid glue joints: Hold parts together on top of plan sheet using moderate pressure to fit parts - wick thin

CA into joint. (There is no need to pin parts to work table as all pieces interlock and self - jig.)

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 8 of 43

Empennage

1. Build the Rudder, Vertical Stabilizer, Elevator, and Horizontal Stabilizer. Parts are grouped according to tail section component on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Work with each component separately. Assemble over plan sheet, removing only those parts necessary to complete each individual component. Start each assembly by building up the outside edges (just like a puzzle) – finish by inserting center truss parts. Though the parts fall together and self jig, pay particular attention to part orientation and making solid glue joints. [Parts located on sheet(s)

20 and 21]

A A

B B

C C C C

2. Elevator stiffener. With the horizontal stabilizer completely framed, use a sharp hobby knife and remove the wood tabs that span the pocket for the carbon fiber reinforcement slot. With the gaps removed, cut one (1) 16” length of carbon fiber bar stock and install to the pocket in the horizontal stabilizer (retain the remaining 8” length of bar stock to use on the rudder trailing edge). With the horizontal stabilizer laid flat upon your work table, lightly pinch wood pocket together to sandwich the carbon fiber bar stock within the balsa applying thin

CA glue to retain the carbon stock within the assembly.

3. Trailing edge reinforcement. Use the remaining 8” length of carbon fiber bar stock remaining from above assembly step and glue to recess in trailing edge of rudder assembly. Finally, cut two (2) more 8” lengths of carbon fiber bar stock and glue these to recess at trailing edge of elevator assembly.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 9 of 43

4. Elevator Joining Wire. Verify that the provided 1/8” aluminum bushings are of the appropriate length and nest within the elevator assembly as indicated on the plan sheet. Capture the bushing within the elevator using the

1/32” ply elevator doublers as indicated on the plan sheet. Be careful to avoid getting glue inside the bushing.

Allow adequate time to dry then test fit the elevator joining wire. This wire is pre-formed but you will be required to do some minor adjusting (use heavy pliers) to the wire joiner until your joined elevator assembly lies perfectly flat on your work surface and there are no interference issues with the horizontal stabilizer.

5. Sand all surfaces with fine grit sand paper, rounding leading edge of horizontal and vertical stabilizer while leaving trailing edge parts square. Double bevel the leading edge of the rudder and elevator in preparation for your preferred hinging method (Centered CA Hinging is Recommended).

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 10 of 43

Fuselage

Fuselage components are exceptionally brittle until the entire assembly is complete – this is especially true aft of the wing saddle. Handle parts accordingly and do not force the fit! Avoid gluing a part in place until instructed to do so –

failure to follow this simple instruction may result in a break down of the space time continuum or may result in a fuselage that is not square and true. To date no one has failed to follow this instruction so the consequences outlined above are but pure speculation.

1. Assemble the major fuselage components. Assemble Fuselage sides and formers F6, F7, F14, FT1, FB3, and

H1. Align parts as indicated below more complicated parts should be aligned over the rolled plan sheet. Install the aft servo pocket assembly to one fuselage side assembly (more details on plan sheet). Wick CA into joints and allow glue to setup prior to continuing. [Parts located on sheet(s) 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18]

B B

A A

B B

H1

F6A

F7A

F14A

F6B

F14B

F14

FT1

FB3

F7

F7C

F6D

F6

2. Lay fuselage sides on a flat surface and gently work formers F2 and F3 into position joining fuselage sides. Pay particular attention to the forward orientation of former F2. See Illustrations below. Tack glue the formers by placing a tiny drop of thin CA on each external tab/notch joint. [Parts located on sheet(s) 22]

3. Install fuselage bottom former FB2 spanning the fuselage sides and formers F2 and F3. Simply tack glue FB2 into position at each tab and notch joint, then invert fuselage and key fuselage top deck part FT1 spanning the forward portion of the fuselage sides and F2. Inspect all joints for proper fit (make certain each tab/notch pair is completely seated without gap) then tack glue assembly at each tab and notch joint. See illustrations below.

[Parts located on sheet(s) 15 and 19]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 11 of 43

4. Complete the forward fuselage box by installing F1. F1 is marked “Front” to indicate the forward orientation of this part – be certain to install F1 facing forward!. Tack glue F1 into position at the tab and notch joints then invert the fuselage (allow the upper portion of F1 to overhang the edge of your work table) and install the fuselage bottom former FB1 as indicated below. Tack glue FB1 into position at each tab and notch joint.

Inspect the completed forward fuselage box checking for a true and square assembly. Once you are satisfied that the assembly is square commit the parts to the assembly by wicking adequate amounts of thin CA glue along each inside joint. [Parts located on sheet(s) 19 and 22]

5. Pull the fuselage sides together at the aft end, matching the top and bottom surfaces, and secure with a piece of tape. Invert the fuselage and install F4a and F4b over wing saddle as indicated below. Fit servo rail SR1 within fuselage sides as indicated below and secure with thin CA. [Parts located on sheet(s) 21]

6. Friction Fit former F5A to 1/8” fuselage gussets F5B to create former F5. Press fit two 4-40 blind nuts to assembly atop the F5B gussets and secure blind nuts to assembly by wicking thin CA glue around the outside edge of the flared portion of the nut. Finally, fit F5 to fuselage sides as indicated below and secure with thin CA glue. [Parts located on sheet(s) 21]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 12 of 43

7. Install ply battery tray BT1 spanning F2, F3, F4a and F4b secure with CA glue (make a good strong joint here; use two to three applications of thin CA or one application of thick CA, allowing time to cure in-between applications). I like to fillet these joints from the underside. To form a fillet with thin CA glue use this technique: spray the glue joint with CA accelerator then drip thin CA glue onto the joint – the thin CA will quickly wick along the joint, penetrate the wood, and rapidly expand to form a glue fillet. [Parts located on sheet(s) 23]

8. Remove tape-securing tail of fuselage (from step 5). Fit former FB3 to fuselage bottom spanning F5a and fuselage sides. [Parts located on sheet(s) 13 and 14]

9. Sand a slight bevel along the edges of part F8 and key to fuselage sides and FB3. Re-secure aft end of fuselage and F8 temporarily with tape. Now work forward from F8 and install formers F6 and F7 to assembly as indicated below. Check fuselage for square at aft of assembly, adjust to square if required. Tack glue formers

F6, F7, and F8 to assembly to hold square while you complete the remaining steps of the fuselage assembly.

[Parts located on sheet(s) 13 and 14]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 13 of 43

10. Install 1/32” ply servo doubler as illustrated in the photos below (within fuselage). Retain by wicking thin CA glue between ply and balsa. [Parts located on sheet(s) 11]

11. Key part FT2 to fuselage sides spanning F7, F8, and the fuselage sides, tack glue FT2 at tab and notch locations. Fit part FT3 atop FT2 aligning with the exposed tab of F8. Wick thin CA between FT2 and FT3 and finally along inside surfaces of FT2 to fuselage sides. [Parts located on sheet(s) 13 and 21]

12. Install FT4 into position atop FT3 keying into former F7. Secure assembly with thin CA. [Parts located on sheet(s) 19]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 14 of 43

13. Key F14 and F15 turtle deck spine into position. Part F15 spans FT4, F7, F6, and F14. F14 tabs to the fuselage top former FT1. Secure parts by tack gluing with thin CA. [Parts located on sheet(s) 13 and 21]

14. Key parts F16 on either side of F15. The parts laminate to F15 and key into the provided tabs on FT4. [Parts located on sheet(s) 19]

15. Install pre-cut 1/16” stringer stock spanning F6, F7, and F14 – Stringers are slightly over-length – remove the excess and sand flush with former F14. Inspect your fuselage for square one last time – then finish aft fuselage assembly by wicking thin CA glue along inside of all part to part joints. [Parts located on sheet(s) 14]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 15 of 43

16. Frame the forward turtle deck. Key parts F11 and F13 to fuselage top decking. Note orientation of F13 instrument panel and decide if you want it hidden or exposed. Key two center spines F12 spanning F11 and

F13 (Note: Arrow etched on parts F12 should face front of fuselage). Check assembly for square then wick thin

CA along inside part joints. Next, key part F9 to fuselage top decking. Key two center spines F10 spanning F1 and F9 (Note: Arrow etched on parts F10 should face front of fuselage). Check assembly for square then wick thin CA along inside part joints. [Parts located on sheet(s) 14 and 15]

17. Assemble, square, and glue the battery access hatch as illustrated below from parts H1, H2, H3, H4, and H5

(Note: Arrow etched on parts H5 should face front of fuselage). Install one 3/16” diameter neo. magnet to any side of the H1 hatch assembly (Plan ahead. The side you install this magnet to will form the latch side of the hatch and the hatch will be hinged along the opposite fuselage side) Secure magnet to hatch by soaking inside joints with liberal amounts of thin CA glue. [Parts located on sheet(s) 13, 14, and 15]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 16 of 43

18. Install the forward fuselage sheeting. Apply the following method to install the forward fuselage deck sheeting.

The forward fuselage will be sheeted in three major sections. Each section is composed of three major sheeting parts: two (2) side sheets and one (1) center sheet. These sheeting parts are located on parts sheet

12 and are clearly etched with an alpha numeric beginning with “a” and ending with “d”. Center sheet sections will have the etched alpha numeric centered on the part at either end lengthwise. Side sheet sections will have the alpha numeric etched along the top center edge of the sheet at either end.

Begin by sheeting between formers F13 and F11 with the parts etched a-b. Orient sheeting so that “a” is closest to former F12 and “b” is closest to F11. Non etched sides of sheeting should butt against fuselage top former while etched sides should wrap towards fuselage center. Stand sheeting up at 90 degrees to fuselage top matching the edges of sheeting to the edges of the formers. Wick thin CA glue along bottom edge of sheeting and allow to cure completely. Spray/soak outside surface of sheeting with a glass cleaner solution or

50/50 mix of alcohol and water. Gently wrap/form sheeting to conform to the shape of the formers, side sheeting should end at the center of each stringer. Train sheeting to hold shape by gently wrapping masking tape around fuselage and sheeting as illustrated below. Allow sheeting to dry completely prior to gluing in place. Sheeting stretches when moist and shrinks when dry; failure to allow sheeting to dry prior to gluing will cause unsightly dips and warps.

Continue this process for the forward-most section of the fuselage using the side sheeting etched “c” and “d” with “c” aligned to former F9 and “d” aligned to former F1. See photo series below (note that at F1 the side sheeting should snug against F1 the step that is created will be sanded out upon completion of the fuselage assembly.)

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 17 of 43

Complete the fuselage sheeting by removing the masking tape tacking down the side sheeting and installing the center sheet components paying attention to the orientation designated by the alpha numeric etched on each sheet. Adjust any imperfections in fit by sanding parts, fill any gaps with balsa filler and sand smooth.

19. Apply the same sheeting technique to the battery hatch with one exception; install the center sheeting prior to wrapping the side sheeting as this will add some rigidity to the hatch. (Note that the battery hatch top/center sheeting is composed of two parts with grain running in two directions. Assemble the top sheeting over a flat surface prior to installing to your hatch assembly.)

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 18 of 43

20. Remember the 3/16” neo. magnet installed back in step 17? Test fit the completed hatch assembly to the fuselage take note of the magnet position in the access hatch. Install the second magnet in the corresponding hole in the fuselage. Get the polarity right or the magnets will repel instead of attracting. As we require attraction to form a solid hatch closure use the following method to ensure you do not install this part wrong:

Allow the free magnet to “snap” to the battery access hatch lid. Mark the outside surface of the free magnet with a permanent marker. Now install this magnet within the fuselage with the marked side facing the inside of the fuselage and the un-marked side top-side as illustrated below.

21. Locate the motor mount parts on the 1/16” ply parts sheet. Assemble the motor mount to match illustrations below dry fit the motor mount until you are positive that it has been assembled correctly then tack together using thin CA glue. Motor mount parts are etched with an alpha/numeric start by locating the front motor mount part – orient this part and all etched parts with the etching to the outside of the motor mount. Now simply match

“a” to “a” and “b” to “b” etc. Finally, wick liberal amounts of thin CA glue along the inside joints of the motor mount (tip: use the CA accelerator / thin CA fillet technique described in step 7. Fit motor to mount using the four provided 3x6mm machine screws. (Apache APS30-30T outrunner pictured) Test fit the completed motor mount assembly to the firewall using the four (4) provided #2 wood screws.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 19 of 43

Motor mount precautions:

The motor mount has been designed and stressed to adequately handle normal in-flight loads from strenuous 3D aerobatics. The mount will give in the event of a crash or full power prop strike saving major damage to the airframe.

Should you crash this model or strike the prop hard you must thoroughly inspect your motor mount for damage prior to resuming flying. Additional suggestions:

Never run up an out of balance prop or spinner – at any RPM! NEVER run a prop that is out of track.

Never run a prop adapter that is damaged or bent.

Disable your prop brake on the ESC when running any outrunner motor on this airframe.

(Ignoring any of these suggestions may lead to vibration that can damage the airframe, motor mount, and your

electronics)

22. Final sand the fuselage – Tips: Sand the Hatch and fuselage components together. Scallop former F6 inbetween turtle deck stringers to eliminate the covering from sagging across this former when covered. Sand

F1 flush with former FB1 fill and sand the intersection of FB1 and FB2. Test fit the styrene cowl and sand fuselage nose to shape accordingly. We suggest sanding a slight bevel in the aft end of the fuselage at F8 extending aft to make for a gentle transition to the Rudder surface and prevent control horn binding.

Wing

Basic assembly methodology. When assembled on a flat work surface, this wing will jig together and self align to create one of the straightest wings you have ever built. As each part relies on the successive component to achieve this; we suggest that you rely on friction and the interlocking construction to hold the wing together throughout the building process hold off on the CA glue until you are directed to use it– this allows the individual components to shift and align as each part is added – once all the pieces are in-place the assembly will be pulled together straight and true.

1. Begin wing construction by completing wing sub assemblies to create the main spar components. Locate and assemble/glue, over plan sheet, parts S1A and S1B to create the main spar. Next join parts S3A, S3B, and

S3C to create the upper spar cap strip. Finally, join parts S2A, S2B, and S2C to create the lower spar cap strip.

[Parts located on sheet(s) 1 and 2]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 20 of 43

2. Remove all of the ribs from the balsa sheets. (Now is a good time to consider sanding the laser burn marks from the edges of the ribs before the burn marks are permanently retained by the CA glue. Sand lightly along exposed edges to avoid modifying the airfoil and part fit). Key ribs R1-R6 to main spar assembly S1. Go easy and do not force the fit –should the fit seem snug, often due to slight variances in wood thickness, you should remove the offending part and lightly sand the surface until the part fits with some friction – avoid forcing the fit as it will distort the shape of the wing. [Parts located on sheet(s) 1, 5, and 7]

3. Locate leading edge jig LE3 and key to ribs R1 and R6. Make sure that LE3 is properly nested into the notches in R1 and R6 then tack glue LE3 to R1 and R6 leaving the rest of the structure un-glued. Note: To assist with the fit of LE1 to the ribs it often helps to lightly bevel the interlocking notches on LE3 using a very fine grit sand paper. With the leading edge jig installed, turn your attention to the trailing edge. Install the trailing edge jig

TE1 to either side of the wing. Tack glue the trailing edge jig at rib R6 and R1 leaving the remainder of the ribs free of glue. [Parts located on sheet(s) 3 and 5]

4. With the wing assembly still very flexible, now is a great time to assemble the servo pockets and install them within the wing. For this step you will need parts W6, W7, and the 1/16” ply parts W8. Once the servo pockets have been dry fit together, test the fit to the wing spar and rib R3. Work the assembly into position carefully as the rib and spar are in a delicate state. Simply rely on the friction fit of the servo pocket to the wing spar / rib do not glue these assemblies together until the spar cap strips are glued in-place. Assemble the servo pockets as illustrated below. [Parts located on sheet(s) 9 and 23]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 21 of 43

5. Locate parts W4 (balsa) and W5 (ply). Use the provided 1/8” hardwood dowels as a centering tool and insert through the 1/8” holes in the wing center section trailing edge components. Tack glue parts W4 and W5 (well away from the 1/8” dowels). Remove the centering dowels and wick thin CA between surfaces to laminate the trailing edge components together. Install the wing trailing edge center section to ribs R1 and R2. Glue the center trailing edge component to R1 and R2 where these parts intersect. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6 and 11]

Note: This part should be trained to follow the dihedral angle (the gentle upward slope from the bottom center section of the wing to the bottom of the tip rib), however, the part is flat and will resist bending. I have found that it helps to slightly score this part, with a sharp knife, about ½ way through the balsa, just outside of rib R1, on either side of the wing. Score the part then train the part to follow the bottom angle of the spar. Finish by applying CA glue to the area you scored.

6. Key the assembled spar cap strips S2 and S3 to the main spar by gently rocking the cap strip assemblies into position. Lay the entire wing assembly over your flat building surface inverted. With the wing firmly held flat against the building board, wick thin CA glue into the joints between the spar and the cap strip. Allow the CA to cure, then repeat for the opposite cap strip. [Parts located on sheet(s) 1 and 2]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 22 of 43

7. Install LE4 Cap strip to leading edge jig LE3 then stand wing up along its leading edge supported over your flat work surface. Hold LE3 firmly against LE 4 and wick thin CA along joints between LE3 and LE4 surfaces.

Note: It may help to slightly bevel the tabs on LE3 before fitting LE4, additionally, LE4 is designed to fit in one direction; pay careful attention to the notching. [Parts located on sheet(s) 9]

8. Install the trailing edge cap strips TE2a (top) and TE2b (bottom) as illustrated below. Make certain that the wing is flat on your building board, resting on the riser jigs, then glue the parts into position. [Parts located on sheet(s) 4]

9. Glue in the wing center brace part W1 in-between ribs R1. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 23 of 43

10. Assemble the landing gear block: Locate parts LG1, LG2, LG3, LG4, and LG6; friction fit together as indicated in the photo below then key the assembled landing gear block to the wing between ribs R1 and the main spar.

Align flush with R1 and the main spar then glue into position. Be certain to wick liberal amounts of glue through the lightening hole in R1 against the landing gear block and inside the pocket created for the gear spade. This part will see great stress so make certain it is adequately bonded. [Parts located on sheet(s) 3, 4, 6, and 8]

11. Install the gear block supports L4a on either side of the center section assembly directly behind the landing gear spade pocket. See photos and plan sheet for guidance. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 24 of 43

12. Key the center section leading edge supports LG5 as illustrated below. Next, install the center section leading edge (composed of three laminations of 3/32” balsa labeled as parts begin by keying LE1 to the assembly then laminate two (2) each of the parts LE2 atop LE1. Wick liberal amounts of glue between the leading edge laminations, center section ribs, and the leading edge supports. [Parts located on sheet(s) 5 and 8]

13. Laminate part S1C (spar doubler) to spar midsection between ribs R1. [Parts located on sheet(s) 1]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 25 of 43

14. Install wing center section stiffeners W2 flush with the upper wing surface as illustrated below. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6]

15. Slip part W3 center brace in between ribs R1 aligned with the centerline of parts TE1. [Parts located on sheet(s) 10]

16. With the wing held flat atop your building surface, fit the pre-cut turbulator stock to the wing and secure with thin

CA. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 26 of 43

17. With your wing held flat atop your work surface wick thin CA glue into all joints that were tack glued. Give attention to the ribs, spar, spar caps, leading edge, trailing edge, gear block, and servo pockets.

18. Visually inspect your wing and verify that there are no warps or un-intentional twists.

Note: If, for some reason, your wing does not come out straight and true – you may simply invert the assembly on your flat work surface, weigh it down to rest across the top spar cap and riser jigs, liberally spray the assembly with glass cleaner solution or a 50/50 mix of water to alcohol, and allow to completely dry. This technique will relax the wood and allow it to conform to your flat building board.

19. Once you are satisfied that your wing is true, remove the wing riser jigs.

20. Using a long sanding block sand round the leading edge of the wing to match shape of airfoil as detailed on the plan sheet. Gently remove any laser burn marks from outside surfaces by sanding with a very fine grit paper.

Test the fit of the wing assembly to the fuselage and verify that it seats properly. If the wing does not completely nest within the fuselage correct the shape of your rounded leading edge adjusting as required.

Note: You may also need to slightly sand the trailing edge of your wing square to fit fuselage wing saddle. See the illustrations below for more guidance.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 27 of 43

Ailerons:

1. Assemble the ailerons. Using the rolled plan sheet as a guide, key parts A1 (aileron end ribs) into position on part A4 (aileron trailing edge). Next, position parts A2 (aileron sub ribs). Notice that one sub rib is composed of a sandwich of the 1/16” balsa parts A2 and 1/32” ply part A3 – assemble this sandwich and key to aileron assembly. Lay the assembly on a flat surface, check for square and secure parts with a drop of thin CA at each joint. [Parts located on sheet(s) 1, 8, and 11]

2. Key 1/16” balsa parts A5 and A6 perpendicular to one another, wick thin CA glue along inside joint and key to aileron assembly as illustrated below. [Parts located on sheet(s) 3]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 28 of 43

3. With aileron assembly laid flat upon your building board. Laminate carbon fiber bar stock to trailing edge or aileron assembly. Trim carbon bar stock to fit flush with ends of aileron assembly.

4. Complete aileron assembly by nesting aileron leading edge reinforcement A7a, A7b, A7c, and A7d within aileron leading edge as illustrated below. Refer to plan sheet for placement guidance. If the part fit it too snug lightly sand the edges until a proper fit is achieved. Secure parts with thin CA glue. [Parts located on sheet(s) 3 and 4]

Main Gear

1. Assemble gear spade. Using the 1/8” holes in parts LG7 and LG8 align balsa part LG7 to plywood LG8 and glue. Install .093” wire landing gear struts into channels in gear spade and laminate the second part LG8 to top of spade capturing gear legs within. Next run thin CA into spade by allowing it to wick in along the gear legs where they enter the spade. Sand exterior of spade to fit into gear block (in wing). The photo below shows the completed gear assembly. Lightly sand the outside edges of the gear spade, however, do not remove a significant amount of the ply thickness as this will lead to landing gear failure. Test the fit of the gear spade to the wing. The fit will be very snug at first but will relax as the balsa compresses slightly. Simply gently rock the

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 29 of 43

gear back and forth into the wing until the fit is snug but the gear is easily removed. [Parts located on sheet(s) 6 and 11]

Wheel Pants

This step can be quite tricky as it is very easy to get side tracked and built two right or two left parts. Remember, we want a right and left wheel pant. The best way, that I have found, to build these up and avoid making two identical parts is to follow the illustrations below. Lay your parts out facing EXACTLY as illustrated and work through this step in one sitting… this will help you avoid making mistakes.

1. Build Stack A: Stack the following wheel pant part up in the following order up in sequence from the building board: Make one stack from the wheel pant shapes etched 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. Make the second stack from the wheel pants etched a, b, c, d, e, f, and g. Gently drive the 1/16” balsa stepped wheel pant keys in from the top as illustrated below. These keys are stepped to reinforce the appropriate build order and assist in removing any ranking of your wheel pant stacks. When your stacks appear like the second photo below you may wick thin CA glue between the balsa parts. [Parts located on sheet(s) 4, 9, and 10]

2. Install the 1/16” ply wheel pant part WP1 within the wheel pant assembly as shown. Lightly sanding the burn marks from the edges of this part will allow it to pop into position with little effort. Wick liberal amounts of thin

CA around the part and allow to setup. Next laminate the 1/32” ply reinforcement ring WP2 opposite WP1 within the wheel pant to prevent the gear wire from tearing out the outside edge of the balsa pant. The method I like best for installing WP2 is as follows: Temporarily insert the wire gear leg through the pant, and WP2, visually square the wire within the assembly, tack WP1 into position, remove the wire gear leg, then wick liberal amounts of thin CA around WP2. [Parts located on sheet(s) 11 and 23]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 30 of 43

3. Sand wheel pants to shape in preparation for paint or covering.

4. Harden the balsa “channel” that accepts the main gear wire. The main gear wire nests into the “channel” and is retained by the 1/32” ply plate WP3 and the eight #0x3/16” screws (located in the small parts bag) [Parts located on sheet(s) 11]

5. Test fit the gear spade to the wing assembly. Gently rock the spade to install into wing assembly.

Tail Wheel

Use the full-size rolled plan sheet marked “Fuselage” as a reference for completing the wire tail wheel assembly.

Then, sandwich the completed wire assembly within the fuselage parts F18, F17, and F18 as illustrated below.

[Parts located on sheet(s) 11 and 13]

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 31 of 43

Canopy/Cowl

1. Trim canopy along scribe line on the molded part.

2. Trim cowl along scribe line on the molded part. Trim away inside recessed area of cowl to promote cooling of the motor.

3. Test fit both to fuselage – the fit of the cowl is very precise – some light sanding of the fuselage may be required to achieve a perfect fit.

Hint: Painting the Cowl. Lay up multiple thin coats of paint, allowing ample time to dry, on the cowl to avoid melting of the part by the aggressive solvents in your paint.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 32 of 43

Final Assembly

Reference the plan sheet for assembly tips and locations of parts. As it is assumed you have prior building experience there should be no surprises completing the final assembly.

1. Final sand and trim the entire model with Stevens AeroModel AeroLite covering.

2. Cut CA hinge material into small strips as detailed on the plan sheet.

3. Determine hinge points for control surfaces then pre-slot elevator, rudder, and wing assemblies at hinge points to accept CA hinges

4. First, slide elevator into fuselage. Then, insert the horizontal stabilizer joiner wire. Center the stabilizer and secure with thin CA.

5. Slip elevator assemblies over joiner wire (do not glue the joiner wire to the elevator assembly) and fit CA hinges to elevator and horizontal stabilizer. Secure with thin CA glue.

6. Insert nylon control horn to elevator assembly on the same side that your push / pull servo and linkage will be installed – secure with thin CA and trim any excess control horn studs that extend beyond the opposite surface of the elevator assembly.

7. The vertical stabilizer keys into the aft section of the turtle deck and the groove in the aft end of the fuselage. Carefully key the vertical stabilizer into place and secure with thin CA.

8. Fit CA hinges to rudder and vertical stabilizer – secure with thin CA.

9. Insert nylon control horn to rudder assembly on the same side that your push / pull servo and linkage will be installed – secure with thin CA and trim any excess control horn studs that extend beyond the opposite surface of the elevator assembly.

10. Test fit main gear – simply friction fit to the channel in the wing rocking the spade from side to side as you install the assembly – sand the edges of the gear spade round if necessary to obtain a good fit. Avoid removing thickness from the gear spade.

11. Cut to length, sand to fit, and insert wing retaining dowel rods into holes provided in completed center section of wing assembly. The dowels should nest into the landing gear block but not prevent the install or removal of the landing gear spade. Test fit everything prior to committing the parts with glue. – secure with thin CA.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 33 of 43

12. Fit CA hinges to ailerons and wing – secure with thin CA.

13. Slip the 1/32” ply aileron control horn into the appropriate position on the aileron (see plan sheet for details). Secure with thin CA.

14. Install tail wheel assembly bracket – secure plywood tail wheel bracket to bottom of fuselage using thin CA

– trim away covering as required. For tail wheel assembly: refer to these instructions and rolled plan sheet for appropriate installation.

15. Secure cowl and canopy to fuselage with clear tape (or trim tape) on either side of the plastic parts.

16. Wing secures to the fuselage assembly by the two 1/8” dowels keying into the provided holes in former F2.

The trailing edge is then retained with the supplied 4-40x1” nylon wing bolts.

17. Battery Hatch: Run a length of clear tape along one side of the hatch to fuselage creating a hinge. Double this tape joint on the inside of the hatch. Obviously this needs to be on the opposite side of the magnetic catch.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 34 of 43

Radio Gear

Reference the plan sheet for all servo locations push/pull rod lengths and locations.

1. Install servos in the appropriate positions (reference plan sheet). TIP! - Test-mount servos then back out screws and harden screw holes with thin CA – re-install servos.

2. Install the provided .045” aileron, elevator, and rudder push rods. Connect linkage to servos using your preferred adjustment method – I suggest using Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors DUB846 drilled to accept the .045” wire push/pull rods.

3. Apply adhesive back Velcro (not included) to battery tray. Mount battery with Velcro to BT1 battery tray. For additional security wrap a double sided Velcro tie wrap around the battery and tray.

4. Mount receiver with Double Sided Tape or Velcro within fuselage cavity as illustrated on the plan sheet.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 35 of 43

First Flight

1. Have you balanced your prop? If not due this prior to running up the motor.

2. For your initial flight balance aircraft on the main spar (Hint: it is easiest to balance the model inverted). For more advanced maneuvers you may slowly move the CG back once you are comfortable with the flight envelope of this model.

3. Prior to heading off to the field, sight along wings, wing saddle, and tail surfaces to check for warps or twisted wings. Remove warps and twists, if found, by asking a helper to re-shrink the aircraft covering while you counter any warps by twisting the surface opposite the warp. Hold the counter twist, shrink, cool, release, and re-inspect for warps.

4. Set control surface throws as indicated below:

Suggested low / sequence rates

Elevator +/- 25deg. 30% expo.

Ailerons +/- 20deg. 30% expo.

Rudder +/- 30deg. 60% expo.

Suggested high / 3D rates

Elevator +/- 45deg. 80% expo.

Ailerons +/- 40deg. 70% expo.

Rudder +/- 45deg. 80% expo.

Mixes

Elevator to Rudder Mix 12%

(This is a good starting point you’ll be mixing up elevator throw to right or left rudder. This is not required but will help eliminate any tendency to pitch to gear in Knife Edge.)

Aileron to Rudder Mix – 2%

(Built straight there will be virtually no roll coupling to this airframe, however, what small amount exists is typically against rudder application so set your mix up accordingly to roll in the same direction as rudder application 2% is a good starting point.)

5. Choose a calm day for your maiden trim flight!

6. Slowly advance throttle – within a few feet you will be airborne.

7. The G480 slows down nicely for and makes beautiful 3 point landings; however, make your first landings with slight power-on until you are familiar with the aircraft’s stall.

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 36 of 43

advertisement

Was this manual useful for you? Yes No
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Related manuals

advertisement