GB
NOTE: The saw chain stretches during use, particularly when it is new, and occasional adjustment will be needed.
A new chain requires more frequent adjustment during the break-in period. This is normal. See Section for Saw Chain
Tension Adjustment instructions.
CAUTION: A loose chain can jump off the bar while you are cutting, as well as wear the bar and chain. A chain that is too tight can damage the saw. Either situation, chain too loose or too tight, could cause serious personal injury.
• CHAIN BRAKE / HAND GUARD
All Talon chain saws are equipped with a Chain brake
/Hand guard which stops a moving chain in milliseconds, helping to reduce the hazard of kickback, a fast upward motion of the guide bar which occurs when the saw chain at the nose of the bar accidentally strikes an object or is pinched in the cut.
The Hand Guard also protects your left hand in the event it slips off the front handle.
The chain brake is a safety feature which is activated if pressure is applied against the guard or when, in the event of kickback, the operator’s hand strikes the lever.
When the chain brake is activated, chain movement abruptly stops and the power supply to the motor is immediately cut off.
The purpose of the chain brake is to reduce the possibility of injury due to kickback. The chain brake cannot, however, provide the measure of intended protection if the saw is carelessly operated.
The chain brake is disengaged (chain can move) when the brake is pulled back and locked. This is the normal running position (Fig. 9A).
The chain brake is engaged (chain cannot move) when the brake is in forward position (Fig. 9B).
NOTE: The motor will not start if the chain brake is in the engaged position.
D.
Grasp the front handle (not the Chain Brake / Hand
Guard Lever) with your left hand. Thumb and fingers should encircle the handle.
E.
Grasp the rear handle with your right hand. Thumb and fingers should encircle the handle.
F.
Depress the LOCK/OFF button with your right thumb.
Squeeze the trigger with your index finger. (Fig. 7D.)
G.
While the motor is running, activate the chain brake by rolling your left hand forward against the lever.
H.
Chain and motor should stop abruptly.
WARNING: If the chain and motor fail to stop when the chain brake is engaged, take the saw to the nearest professional Service
Center. Do not use the saw if the chain brake is not in proper working order.
GENERAL CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
• FELLING
Felling is the term for cutting down a tree. Small trees up to 15-18cm in diameter are usually cut in a single cut.
Larger trees require notch cuts. Notch cuts determine the direction the tree will fall.
FELLING A TREE:
WARNING: A retreat path (A) should be planned and cleared as necessary before cuts are started. The retreat path should extend back and diagonally to the rear of the expected line of fall, as illustrated in Fig. 10.
WARNING: If felling a tree on sloping ground, the chain saw operator should keep on the uphill side of the terrain, as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after it is felled.
NOTE: Direction of fall (B) is controlled by the notching cut.
Before any cuts are made, consider the location of larger branches and natural lean of the tree to determine the way the tree will fall.
B
Fig. 10A
A
Fig. 9A Fig. 9B
CAUTION: The chain brake should not be used for starting and stopping the saw during normal operation.
CHAIN BRAKE TEST
Before cutting with your saw, the chain brake should be tested as follows:
A.
Make sure the chain brake is disengaged (Fig. 9A).
B.
Place the saw on a firm, flat, dry surface that is clear of any debris. Do not let the saw come in contact with any objects.
C.
Plug the unit into the power source.
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WARNING: Do not cut down a tree during high or changing winds or if there is a danger to properly. Consult a tree professional. Do not cut down a tree if there is a danger of striking utility wires; notify the utility company before making any cuts.
• GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR FELLING
TREES
Normally felling consists of 2 main cutting operations, notching (C) and making the felling cut (D).
Start making the upper notch cut (C) on the side of the tree facing the felling direction (E). Be sure you don’t make the lower cut too deep into the trunk.
The notch (C) should be deep enough to create a hinge
(F) of sufficient width and strength. The notch should be wide enough to direct the fall of the tree for as long as possible.
Fig. 11
A
Fig. 12A
GB
Fig. 10B
WARNING: Never walk in front of a tree that has been notched. Make the felling cut (D) from the other side of the tree and 3-5cm above the edge of the notch (C) (Fig. 10B).
Never saw completely through the trunk. Always leave a hinge. The hinge guides the tree. If the trunk is completely cut through, control over the felling direction is lost.
Insert a wedge or felling lever in the cut well before the tree becomes unstable and starts to move. This will prevent the guide bar from binding in the felling cut if you have misjudged the falling direction. Make sure no bystanders have entered the range of the falling tree before you push it over.
FELLING CUT:
1. Use wooden or plastic wedges (G) to prevent binding the bar or chain (H) in the cut. Wedges also control felling (Fig. 10C).
2. When diameter of wood being cut is greater than the bar length, make 2 cuts as shown (Fig. 10D).
WARNING: As the felling cut gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin to fall. When tree begins to fall, remove saw from cut, unplug, put chain saw down, and leave area along retreat path (Fig. 10A).
G
H
Fig. 10C Fig. 10D
• LIMBING
Limbing a tree is the process of removing the branches from a fallen tree. Do not remove supporting limbs (A) until after the log is bucked (cut) into lengths (Fig. 11).
Branches under tension should be cut from the bottom up to avoid binding the chain saw.
WARNING: Never cut tree limbs while standing on tree trunk.
Fig. 12B Fig. 12C
• BUCKING
Bucking is cutting a fallen log into lengths. Make sure you have a good footing and stand uphill of the log when cutting on sloping ground. If possible, the log should be supported so that the end to be cut off is not resting on the ground. If the log is supported at both ends and you must cut in the middle, make a downward cut halfway through the log and then make the undercut. This will prevent the log from pinching the bar and chain. Be careful that the chain does not cut into the ground when bucking as this causes rapid dulling of the chain.
When bucking on a slope, always stand on the uphill side.
1.
Log supported along entire length: Cut from top
(overbuck), being careful to avoid cutting into the ground (Fig. 12A).
2.
Log supported on 1 end: First, cut from bottom
(underbuck) 1/3 diameter of log to avoid splintering.
Second, cut from above (overbuck) to meet first cut and avoid pinching (Fig. 12B).
3.
Log supported on both ends: First, overbuck 1/3 diameter of log to avoid splintering. Second, underbuck to meet first cut and avoid pinching (Fig. 12C).
NOTE: The best way to hold a log while bucking is to use a sawhorse. When this is not possible, the log should be raised and supported by the limb stumps or by using supporting logs. Be sure the log being cut is securely supported.
• BUCKING USING A SAWHORSE
For personal safety and ease of cutting, the correct position for vertical bucking is essential
(Fig. 13).
Fig. 13
A
VERTICAL CUTTING:
A. Hold the saw firmly with both hands and keep the saw to the right of your body while cutting.
B Keep the left arm as straight as possible.
C. Keep weight on both feet.
C
B
600mm
CAUTION: While the saw is cutting, be sure the chain and bar are being properly lubricated.
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