Cooper Bicycle Owner's Manual

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MANUAL 20.11.12 2/7/13 00:00 Page 2

COOPER BIKES

BICYCLE OWNER’S MANUAL

IMPORTANT

KEEP FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

2nd edition, 2013

This manual meets EN Standards

14764 and 14766

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Welcome to Cooper Bicycles

The Cooper name is synonymous with great design, quality, affordability and, above all, fun. A lot of time and effort goes into every Cooper Bike to make it special. At Cooper we try to utilize the engineering and technical knowledge that has been synonymous with our British Company for 50 years, whilst giving a nod to our F1 & Rally racing heritage. We develop our bikes to be unobtrusive, innovative, aesthetically pleasing, and to bring joy to you and others. We hope you share our philosophy and enjoy your new bike.

IMPORTANT

Read CHAPTER 1 before riding your new bicycle!

Even if you are an experienced cyclist, please take a moment to read through CHAPTER 1 of this manual before you ride.

This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Some maintenance should only be performed by your dealer, and the manual indicates these tasks.

About this Owner’s Manual

This manual explains how to ride your new bike safely. Read CHAPTER 1 before riding your new bicycle!

Parents should explain CHAPTER 1 to a child or anyone else who might not otherwise understand this information.

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Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to practise — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.

This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.

WARNING: In this manual, the WARNING sign indicates a hazardous situation which, if not avoided,could result in death or serious injury.

CAUTION: In this manual, the CAUTION sign indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.

The word

CAUTION

used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.

Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death.

Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.

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Assembly of your new bicycle:

Assembly and the first adjustment of your bicycle take special tools and skills, so this should only be done by an authorized dealer.

If you have questions:

There are many models, with a variety of equipment, so this manual may contain some information that does not apply to your bike. Some illustrations may vary from the actual bicycles.

If you have any questions after reading the information in this manual, consult your dealer. If you have a question or problem that your dealer can’t handle, contact us: [email protected]

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Register your bicycle:

Bicycle registration is the only record we have of who owns this bike. If there is ever a need to communicate with the owner, such as providing updated safety information, your registration is crucial.

• Go to www.cooperbikes.com and follow the links.

The website also provides a link to updated safety information.

If you choose not to register, make sure you check the website often.

KEEP FOR FUTURE RECORDS

BICYCLE MODEL:

SERIAL NUMBER:

LOCK KEY NUMBER:

THE SHOP OF PURCHASE:

MY SHOP PHONE NUMBER:

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1

Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation

1.1 Bicycle type and use classification

1.1.1 Condition 1

1.1.2 Condition 2

1.1.3 Condition 3

1.2 Before a first ride

1.2.1 Make sure the bicycle fits

1.2.2 Know how the bicycle performs

1.3 Before every ride checklist

1.4 Rules for safe riding

1.4.1 Know and observe local bicycle riding laws

1.4.2 Watch for cars, pedestrians, and other obstacles

1.4.3 Wear a helmet and proper cycling clothes

1.4.4 Change your riding to be safe in variable conditions

1.4.5 Use your brakes carefully

1.4.6 Use good shifting techniques

1.5 Take care of your bike

1.5.1 Protect your bike from theft

1.5.2 Protect your bike when parking, storing or shipping

1.5.3 Carry repair items

1.5.4 Only install and use approved accessories

1.5.5 Keep the bike clean

1.5.6 Avoid clamping the frame during transportation or repair

Chapter 2

Maintenance

2.1 Maintenance schedule

2.2 Recommended tools for proper bicycle maintenance

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Chapter 3

Adjustment

3.1 Torque specifications

3.2 Handlebar

3.3 Stem

3.4 Headset

3.5 Saddle

3.6 Pedals

3.7 Chainset & bottom bracket

3.8 Chain

3.9 Cables

3.10 3 & 5 speed Sturmey Archer Internal Hub Gear systems

3.11 8 & 11 speed Shimano Afline Internal Hub Gear systems

3.12 Multi-speed derailleur systems

3.13 Brake levers

3.14 Brakes

3.15 Wheels

3.16 Accessories

Chapter 4 – Lubrication and Servicing

4.1 Stem

4.2 Seat post

4.3 Pedals

4.4 Headset

4.5 Brakes and brake levers

4.6 Wheels

4.7 Chain

4.8 Control Cables

4.9 Tyres

4.10 Tubes

More information

Limited Warranty

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Chapter 1 – Guide to Safe On-and-Off Road Operation

1.1 BICYCLE TYPE AND USE CLASSIFICATION

Intended use of your bicycle:

Riding a bicycle in a manner beyond, or more severe than, its intended use can cause the bicycle or part of the bicycle to fail. The following information explains the type of riding intended for different types of bikes. Read the safety information in Chapter 1 for further details.

1

WARNING

Bicycles, or their parts, can be broken or damaged by riding in a manner more stressful than the intended use of the bike. If the bike is damaged, you could lose control and fall. Do not ride beyond the design limits of the bike.

If you are unsure of the limits of the bike, consult your dealer.

Ride within the design guidelines for the Classification for your bicycle at all times. All Cooper Bicycles are designed and tested for a maximum combined rider /cargo /bike weights listed in each condition classification.

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1

CONDITION

1.1.1 CONDITION 1

High-Performance Road

These bikes are designed for riding on a paved surface where the tires do not lose ground contact.

INTENDED: To be ridden on paved roads only.

NOT INTENDED: For off-road, cyclocross, or touring with racks or panniers.

On this type of bike, steel alloy selection is optimized to deliver both light weight and "feel".

All frames that are very light need frequent inspection. These frames are not designed to take abuse or be a rugged workhorse.

• Weight limit: 275 lbs (125 kg); Tandems: 550 lb (250 kg)

2

CONDITION

1.1.2 CONDITION 2

General Purpose Riding

These bikes are designed for riding Condition 1, plus smooth gravel roads and improved trails with moderate grades where the tyres do not lose ground contact.

INTENDED: For paved roads, gravel or dirt roads that are in good condition, and bike paths.

NOT INTENDED: For off-road or mountain bike use, or for any kind of jumping.

Wider tyres suit gravel or dirt paths. Narrow tyres that are best suited to faster riding on pavement.

If you ride on gravel or dirt paths, carry heavier loads or want more tyre durability talk to your shop about wider tyres.

• Weight limit: 300 lbs (136 kg)

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3

CONDITION

1.1.3 CONDITION 3

Cross-Country, Marathon, Mountain bikes

These bikes are designed for riding Conditions 1 and 2, plus rough trails, small obstacles, and smooth technical areas, including areas where momentary loss of tyre contact with the ground may occur. NOT jumping.

INTENDED: For cross-country riding and racing which ranges from mild to aggressive over intermediate terrain.

Cross-country and marathon components are light-weight, favoring nimble speed over brute force.

NOT INTENDED: For very aggressive or extreme riding. No spending time in the air landing hard and hammering through obstacles.

Cross-Country and Marathon bikes are light and fast for pedaling efficiency and uphill speed.

• Weight limit: 300 lbs (136 kg)

For more information refer to www.cooperbikes.com to find out what catagory your bike is in.

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1.2 BEFORE A FIRST RIDE

1.2.1 Make sure the bicycle fits

Your dealer should fit you with the proper size of bicycle. There should be at least 1” (25 mm) clearance between the top tube and the rider when standing over the bicycle. For further information visit www.cooperbikes.com

The seat and handlebar may be adjusted to offer the best comfort and performance. Before making these adjustments, refer to Chapter 3.

1.2.2 Know how the bicycle performs

The features of your bicycle, if misused, may cause you to lose control of the bike. Before riding fast or in more difficult conditions, learn the function and performance of all the mechanisms of your bike by riding at slower speeds in a flat, empty parking lot. If you want your bicycle to perform differently, or if you have special needs that require different parts for the safe operation of your bike, consult your dealer.

Bicycle Fit

Stand - over Height

Learn the power of your brakes

The stopping power on bikes varies according to the intended use of the bike. If you would like your bike to have more, or less, stopping power, consult your dealer about brake adjustments or other brake options for your bicycle.

WARNING

Misuse of the braking system, including over-use of the front brake, can cause you to lose control and fall. Avoid improper braking by understanding and practicing proper application of your brakes as explained in this manual.

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Avoid toe clip overlap

Avoid toe-clip overlap

When riding slowly, do not pedal if the handlebar is turned. It may be possible, at very slow speeds, when the handlebar is turned, for your foot or toe-clips to contact the front wheel or mudguard.

At normal riding speeds, the handlebar does not turn enough for this to occur.

WARNING

Contact between your foot or toe-clip and the front wheel or fender can cause you to lose control and fall. Avoid pedalling when turning at slow speed.

Stop riding if you experience problems

Occasionally riders experience problems with their frame or fork, or other component. If a frame, fork or any component has any problem, do not ride the bicycle.

Toe clip overlap

If you experience an unusual vibration, noise, or behaviour, slow down and stop immediately. Take your bicycle directly to a dealer for inspection and repair.

WARNING

A vibration, or steering wobble, can cause you to lose control and fall. If you experience any unusual behaviour of your bicycle, slow down immediately. Take your bicycle to your dealer for inspection and repair.

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CHECK THE BIKE BEFORE EVERY RIDE

Before every ride, inspect the bike with the following check list. If any part of the bicycle fails the inspection, repair the bicycle by following the information provided by this manual, or take the bike to your dealer for service. Never ride a bike with a damaged part; have it replaced.

1.3 BEFORE EVERY RIDE CHECKLIST

NOTE: This is not a comprehensive maintenance program.

Wheels

Tyre inflation

Brakes

Handlebar and stem

Seat and seat post

Lights and reflectors

Frame, fork, and components

Check the wheels

CAUTION

A bicycle that does not work properly can cause you to lose control and fall. Inspect the entire bicycle thoroughly before every ride, and do not ride it until any problem has been corrected. Check that the wheels are straight. Spin each wheel and watch the rim as it passes through the brake pads or the frame. If the rim wobbles up and down or from side to side, repair the wheel.

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WARNING

A wheel attachment device that is not properly adjusted and closed may allow the wheel to be loose or come off unexpectedly, causing you to lose control and fall.

Make sure the wheels are properly attached before riding the bike.

Your bicycle may be equipped with a different securing method for the front wheel than for the rear wheel. It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel.

Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask him to give you any available manufacturer’s instructions.

Quick release wheel

Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair of a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in the fork and frame.

The Nutted wheel

Wheels are secured in one of two ways: Cooper use Quick release or Wheel Axle nuts.

Quick release wheels have a hollow axle shaft (“skewer”) running through it has adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-centre cam on the other (quick release, cam action system) Wheel Axle nuts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle and need to be tightened with a spanner or 15mm Socket.

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Check the tire inflation

Inflate the tires to the air pressure recommended on the tire sidewalls.

Check the brakes

Follow the inspection instructions for the type of brake on your bike:

A hand lever connected to the brake by a cable allows the brake pads to squeeze the rim.

When the brakes are not applied, the brake pads should be 1 to 2 mm from the rim. Squeeze each brake lever toward the handlebar to make sure the brake moves freely and stops the bike. If the brake lever can be pulled to the handlebar, the brake is too loose.

The Brakes

A - Brake pad alignment with wheel rim surface

B - Brake pad set parallel to rim

C - Direction of wheel rotation

D - 0.5 - 1.0mm toe out

If the brake pads are too close to the rim, the brake is too tight.

Brake pads should be aligned with the rim surface.

WARNING

Never ride a bike if you are not certain the brakes are working properly, or you if suspect a problem with the brake cables or hydraulic hose. Malfunctioning brakes can cause you to lose control and fall.

Inspect the brakes thoroughly before every ride. If your brakes are not working properly, re-adjust them or take the bike to your dealer for service .

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WARNING

If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively. A single rear brake does not have the stopping power of front-and-rear brake systems.

Check the handlebar and stem

Make sure the stem is in alignment with the front wheel. Test the stem connection to the fork by attempting to turn the handlebar from side to side with the front wheel locked between your knees (Figure 3). Test the security of the handlebar by attempting to rotate it in the stem. It should not move or be loose. Make sure that no cables are stretched or pinched by rotating the handlebar. Check that the handlebar plugs are properly inserted into both ends of the handlebar (if fitted).

Check the seat and seat post

Make sure the seat is secure by attempting to turn the seat and seat post in the frame, and attempt to move the front of the seat up and down. It should not move or be loose.

Handlebar & Stem

Checking the Handlebar and stem

Check the lights and reflectors

Make sure the lights are functioning correctly and that any batteries are charged. If the lights use a dynamo, make sure it is mounted correctly and all attachment hardware is tight. Make sure reflectors are clean and in position.

Check frame, fork, and components

Carefully inspect your frame, fork, and components for signs of fatigue before and after each ride. Regularly inspect your entire bicycle for signs of fatigue stress:

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Dents

Cracks

Scratches

Deformation

Discoloration

Unusual noises

Even if you perform regular inspections, if you exceed the limit of strength of your bicycle or a given part, it may fail if overloaded. After any high force load, thoroughly inspect all the parts of your bike. High force loads include crashes, but you don't have to crash to put a high force load on your bike. For example, hitting a hole in the road or a sharp bump can put large forces on your bike.

WARNING

As with all mechanical components, the bicycle is subjected to wear and high stresses. Different materials and components may react to wear or stress fatigue in different ways. If the design life of a component has been exceeded, it may suddenly fail possibly causing injuries to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches or change of colouring in highly stressed areas indicate that the life of the component has been reached and it should be replaced.

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1.4 RULES FOR SAFE RIDING

1.4.1 Know and observe local bicycle riding laws

Most countries and states and local areas have specific laws for cyclists, and you should follow them. Local cycling clubs or your country or states Department of Transportation (or equivalent) should be able to supply this information to you. The requirements for items such as lights and reflectors change between areas, so check ahead.

These are a few of the more important rules of riding:

Use proper hand signals.

Ride single file when riding with other cyclists.

Ride on the correct side of the road; never go against traffic.

Ride defensively; expect the unexpected. A cyclist is hard to see, and many drivers simply are not trained to recognize the rights and special considerations of a bicycle rider.

1.4.2 Watch for cars, pedestrians, and other obstacles

Watch for and avoid potholes, drain grates, soft or low kerbs, and other deviations which could impact your wheels or cause them to slip. If you are not sure of riding surface conditions, walk your bike. If a car suddenly enters your lane, or someone unexpectedly opens the door of a parked car, you could be involved in a serious accident. Mount a horn or bell on your bicycle and use it to alert others of your approach.

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1.4.3 Wear a helmet and proper cycling clothes

Wear a helmet that meets safety testing standards it may help prevent injury. Helmets should be removed when not riding the bicycle. If the helmet is caught, stuck on, or stuck between objects, the wearer could choke.

Wear protective clothing including helmet, eye protection, and gloves. Avoid loose-fitting trousers that could get caught in the chain.

Also wear light, bright, and reflective clothing to make yourself more visible, especially at night.

1.4.4 Change your riding to be safe in variable conditions

Ride carefully in wet weather

No brakes, whatever their design, work as effectively in wet weather as they do in dry. Even properly aligned, lubricated and maintained brakes require greater lever pressure and longer stopping distances in wet weather.

Anticipate the extra distance it will take to stop.

Wet weather causes reduced traction. Use slower cornering when traction is reduced, such as when riding over wet leaves, painted pelican crossings, or manhole covers. When wet weather cools to below freezing, traction is reduced even further. In addition, brakes may not work as well. Adjust your riding speed accordingly, or use other forms of transportation.

When riding in wet weather, a dynamo (generator light) may not work properly.

Avoid riding in wet weather when visibility is reduced.

Strong winds can make a bicycle steer or turn unexpectedly. In windy conditions, slow down or use other forms of transportation.

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Be careful when riding in low light conditions.

Your bicycle is equipped with a full set of reflectors; keep them clean and in position. As useful as these reflectors are, they do not help you see, nor do they help you be seen unless light is directed on them. Use a working headlight and taillight when you ride in poorly lighted or low visibility conditions. The important thing is to see and be seen. If you do any amount of riding at dusk, at night, or in any poorly lighted conditions, consult your dealer to find appropriate products to aid your vision and make you more visible.

A bicycle rider without proper lighting and reflectors may not have good vision and may not be visible to others.

Use front and rear bicycle lights and reflectors when riding in poor visibility conditions. Failure to do so will increase your chances of being involved in an accident in low light conditions.

WARNING

• Do not use unsafe riding practices

Many cycling accidents could be avoided by using common sense. Here are a few examples:

• Do not ride ‘no hands’.

• Do not ride with loose objects attached to the handlebar or any other part of the bicycle.

• Do not ride while intoxicated or while using medications which might make you drowsy.

• Do not ‘ride double’.

• Use special care when off-road riding. Ride only on the trails. Avoid rocks, branches, or depressions.

When approaching a descent, reduce speed, keep your weight back and low, and use the rear brake more than the front.

• Do not ride in an abusive manner

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Bicycles are not indestructible. As with anything mechanical, every part of a bicycle has a limited useful life due to wear, stress, and fatigue. Fatigue refers to a low-stress force that, when repeated over a large number of cycles, can cause a material to fail or break. The length of the life of a part varies according to its design, materials, use, and maintenance. Although lighter frames or parts may, in some cases, have a longer life than heavier ones, it should be expected that light-weight, high-performance bicycles and parts require better care and more frequent inspections.

Avoid riding too fast

Higher speeds create higher risks and greater forces in the event of a crash. At higher speeds, it is more likely that wheels will slip, or that a small bump can create a significant impact to your frame or fork. Keep your bicycle under control at all times. For children, the limit of speed for safe riding is much lower, so parents should enforce this rule.

WARNING

Ride within the design guidelines for the Classification for your bicycle at all times.

The following riding practices increase your risk of injury:

Jumping your bicycle

Performing bicycle stunts

Severe off-road riding

Downhill riding

Any unsafe riding practices

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Each of these practices increases the stress on every part of your bicycle. Frames or parts under high stress may fatigue prematurely, causing them to fail and increasing the risk of injury to the rider. To decrease your risk of injury, avoid these riding practices.

1.4.5 Use your brakes carefully

Always keep a safe stopping distance between you and other vehicles or objects. Adjust stopping distances and braking forces to suit riding conditions.

If your bike has two hand brakes, apply both brakes at the same time. Over-use, or mis-use, of a front-wheel brake, such as using only the front-wheel brake in an emergency, could cause the rear wheel to lift from the ground which could cause you to lose control.

Bicycles are normally manufactured with the right brake lever controlling the front-wheel brake and the left brake levercontrolling the rear. This set-up is "normal" for the UK. If you want your brakes setup European style, contact your bike shop.

Many models of modern brakes are very powerful; they are designed to stop a bike in wet or muddy conditions. If you feel your brakes are too powerful for your riding needs, take your bike to your dealer for adjustment or replacement of the braking system.

WARNING

Applying sudden or excessive stopping force with the front-wheel brake may cause the rear wheel to lift off the ground, or the front wheel to slip out from under you, which can cause you to lose control and fall. Apply both brakes at the same time, and shift your weight backwards on the bike while braking.

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1.4.6 Use good shifting techniques

Shifting gears allows you to choose the gear combination most comfortable for riding conditions, one that allows you to maintain a constant rate of pedalling. The left-hand shifter controls the front derailleur and the right-hand shifter controls the rear derailleur. Use only one shifter at a time. Shift gears only when the pedals and chain are moving forward. When you shift, reduce the force on the pedals to provide quicker and smoother shifting, to help avoid excessive chain and gear wear, and to help avoid bent chains, derailleurs, and chainrings. Avoid shifting when going over bumps; the chain may not shift properly or may fall off.

With modern indexed shifting systems, a movement of the shifter from one position to the next (or movement of the shifter to the "shift" position) should promptly move the chain from one gear to the next. However, bikes equipped STI road shifters and triple chainrings may shift better, particularly when shifting from the smallest chainring to the middle, if you “hold” the lever for a moment before letting go of the shifter.

Shifting a bike with internal gearing

To change gear with internal geared hubs, continue pedalling but ease the pressure on the pedals and select the gear required. If the bicycle is stationary simply select the gear required.

1.5 TAKE CARE OF YOUR BIKE

1.5.1 Protect your bike from theft

Bicycle locks

Purchase and use a lock that is effective against bolt cutters and saws.

Never leave your bike unlocked while unattended.

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Record and keep your serial number

Register your bicycle with your local police department. Complete our on-line warranty registration; we will keep the serial number of your bike on file. Also, write the serial number in the front of this manual, and keep the manual in a safe place.

1.5.2 Protect your bike when parking storing or shipping

Park your bike safely

When not riding, keep your bike in a place where it will be out of the way, and make sure it cannot fall over. Do not lay the bike down, you may damage or get dirt on the drivetrain. Don’t let the bike fall down, as this may cut the handlebar grips, or tear the seat. Incorrect use of bike racks may bend your wheels.

Store your bike carefully

When not riding, keep your bike where it will be protected from rain, snow, sun, etc. Do not store the bike near electric motors, as ozone from motors destroys rubber and paint. Rain or snow may cause the metal on your bicycle to corrode.

Ultraviolet radiation from the sun may fade the paint, or crack any rubber or plastic on the bicycle.

Before storing your bike for an extended period of time, clean and lubricate it, and polish the frame with frame polish.

Hang the bicycle off the ground with the tires at approximately half pressure. Before riding the bicycle again, be certain it is in good working order.

Protect your bicycle during shipping

If you have to ship your bike, make sure it is properly padded and protected to avoid damage. Ask your dealer about supplies used to ship a new bike, such as a fork block.

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1.5.3 Carry repair items

Carry a pump, spare inner tube, patch kit, and appropriate tools to keep your bicycle running in the case of a flat tyre or other common mechanical problem. If you ride at night, carry spare bulbs and batteries for your lights.

1.5.4 Only install and use approved accessories

Not all accessories are compatible or safe, so only add accessories that are approved by the manufacturer. The list of incompatible parts is too long for this manual. If you are unsure whether a part is approved, consult your dealer.

1.5.5 Keep the bike clean

If your frame or a component is dirty, clean it with a soft, damp cloth and bike cleaner or a solution of dish soap and water. Use of industrial solvents or harsh chemicals for cleaning may damage the paint.

Caring for your Brookes leather saddle. Each Brooks Saddle comes with a care leaflet. Maintaining your saddle, as described therein, will ensure that it becomes the most comfortable and durable saddle you could ever wish for.

Clean and oil your chain. Ask your local shop on the best methods to do this.

Caring for your Brookes leather saddle. Each Brooks Saddle comes with a care leaflet. Maintaining your saddle, as described therein, will ensure that it becomes the most comfortable and durable saddle you could ever wish for.

Clean and oil your chain. Ask your local shop on the best methods to do this.

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1.5.6 Avoid clamping the frame during transportation or repair

Avoid clamping the frame during transportation or repair

Never clamp the bike frame by its finished or painted surfaces. This type of clamp may damage the paint or even dent, crush, or break the light-weight tubing used in high-performance bicycle frames. Clamping devices used by work stands and car carriers can damage the finish on a bike or even crush the tubing. When putting a bike in a repair stand,clamp the seat post. When carrying a bike in a car carrier, clamp the wheels and the fork tips.

WARNING

Never modify your frameset or parts in any way, including sanding, drilling, filing, removing redundant retention devices, installing incompatible forks, or by any other method. Improper components or improper assembly can place unknown stress on your bike or components. An improperly modified frame, fork, or component can cause you to lose control and fall. Before adding or changing any part of your bike, consult your dealer.

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Chapter 2 – Maintenance

2.1 MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average, or in rain, snow, or off-road conditions, service your bicycle more often than the schedule suggests. If any part appears to be malfunctioning, inspect and service it immediately, or consult your dealer. If a part is damaged, replace it before riding the bicycle again.

2

After initial break-in, new bikes should be checked for stretched cables and other normal conditions.

Approximately two months after purchasing your new bike, have your dealer thoroughly inspect the bicycle.

All bikes should be thoroughly serviced once a year, even if they have not been ridden.

See Chapters 3 and 4 for adjustment and maintenance details

WARNING

Only the maintenance, adjustment and lubrication items listed in this manual should be attempted by the bicycle owner.

If you are unsure consult your dealer. All other repairs and maintenance should be carried out by your dealer.

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Before every ride check:

Wheels

Tyre inflation

Brakes

Handlebar and stem

Seat and seat post

Lights and reflectors

Frame, fork, and components

(See chapter 1 for specific details)

Weekly

Wipe off your bicycle with a damp cloth

Check for loose spokes

Monthly

Check the attachment of the handlebar and stem

Check the attachment of the seat and seat post

Check the chain tension and lubricate

Check the chain guard and other accessories

Inspect cables for wear

Check the operation of shifters

Check the internal shift system

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Check headset bearing adjustment

Check brake pads

Check brake bolts

Check wheel bearing adjustment

Check rims for wear

Every 3 Months

Clean and polish finish

Check the bottom bracket

Lubricate brake levers

Every year

Lubricate handlebar stem

Lubricate seat post

Service pedal threads and bearings

Service bottom bracket

Service wheel bearings

Service headset bearings

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2.2 RECOMMENDED TOOLS FOR PROPER BICYCLE MAINTENANCE

Torque spanner or socket set with lb•in or N•m gradations

2, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm allen keys

9, 10, 15 mm open-end spanners

15 mm spanner or socket

No. 1 Phillips head screwdriver

Bicycle tube patch kit, tyre pump with gauge, and tyre levers

(Note: Not all bikes require all these tools)

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Chapter 3 – Adjustment

This chapter lists instructions for adjustment of the parts of a bicycle.

After any repair, inspect the bike as explained in Chapter 1.

WARNING

A bicycle that malfunctions can cause you to lose control and fall. Inspect the entire bicycle thoroughly before every ride, and do not ride it until any problem has been corrected.

3.1 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Torque is a measurement of the tightness of a threaded fastener such as a screw or bolt, determined by using a torque wrench. The torque specifications should be used to make sure you do not over-tighten the fasteners. Applying more than the recommended torque to a fastener does not provide extra holding power, and may actually lead to damage or failure of a part.

Always perform the simple function tests listed in this chapter to make sure a part is properly tightened, whether or not the part was tightened with a torque wrench. If a part fails inspection at the recommended torque, take the bike to your dealer.

WARNING

An improperly adjusted or tightened handlebar, stem, or bar-ends can cause you to lose control and fall.

Make sure the stem, handlebar, and bar-ends are positioned and tightened properly before riding the bike.

3

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3.2 HANDLEBAR

To adjust the angle of the handlebar

1. Loosen the handlebar damp bolt(s) on the stem just enough that the handlebar can be rotated in the stem.

2. Position the handlebar to the desired angle, making sure it is centered in the stem.

3. Tighten the handlebar clamp bolt(s) according to stem type:

• Welded stems- 100-120 lb•in (11.3-13.6 N•m).

• Forged stems- 150-180 lb•in (17-20.3 N•m)

B

A

Handlebars

A – Handlebar clamp bolts

B – Steerer clamp bolts (2 off)

3.3 STEM

There are two types of stems:

A

B

• Direct-connect (A Head)

• Quill-type

Adjusting the handlebar height on a direct-connect stem affects the headset bearing adjustment. This procedure requires special tools and training so this should only be done by your dealer.

Handlebar Stem

A – Handlebar clamp bolt

B – Stem expander bolt

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To align a direct-connect stem

1. Loosen the steerer clamp bolts two to three turns.

2. Align the stem with the front wheel.

3. Tighten the steerer clamp bolts to 100-120 lb•in (11.3-13.6 N•m).

To align or adjust a quill-type stem

1. Loosen the stem expander bolt two to three turns.

2. Tap the top of the stem expander bolt with a wood or plastic-faced mallet to loosen the stem wedge.

3. Adjust the handlebar to the desired height, but with the minimum insertion line inside the frame.

A minimum of 23/4” (70 mm) of the stem quill must always remain in the frame.

4. Tighten to 120 lb•in (13.6 N•m).

WARNING

Never ride your bicycle with a quill stem raised above the minimum insertion mark.

A quill stem that is positioned too high can damage the bike and can cause you to lose control and fall. Make sure the minimum insertion mark is inside the frame.

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3.4 HEADSET

• To check if the headset is loose or tight

1. Apply the front brake firmly while you rock the bicycle forward and backward.

2. With the front wheel off the ground, slowly rotate the fork and handlebar to the right and left. If the headset bearings rock in the frame or do not turn smoothly, do not ride the bicycle; take the bike to your dealer for service.

Adjustment of headset bearings requires special tools and training.These services should only be performed by your dealer.

3.5 SADDLE

The correct adjustment of the seat angle is largely a matter of personal preference. With proper adjustment, the right bike saddle will be reasonably comfortable even for long rides.

To select the saddle angle, first try riding with the top of the seat parallel to the ground. The seat may also be moved forward or backward along the seat post to increase comfort as well as adjust the distance to the handlebar.

Never engage the seat post binder with the seat post out of the frame.

A

B

C

Saddle

A – Seat fixing bolt

B - Seatpost

C - Seatpost binder bolt

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WARNING

Extended riding with a poorly adjusted saddle or one that does not properly support your pelvic area can cause injury to your nerves and blood vessels. If your saddle causes pain or numbness, re-adjust the saddle position.

If after adjustment your saddle still causes pain or numbness, consult your dealer about further positioning or replacing the saddle with one that better fits you.

To adjust the angle of the saddle

1. Loosen the seat fixing bolt just far enough so the saddle can be tilted fore and aft.

Some seat posts use two bolts, where angle adjustment is done by loosening one bolt and tightening the other bolt.

2. Place a straight edge, such as a level or ruler, across the top of the seat to better see the angle.

3. Adjust the seat and re-tighten the seat fixing bolt according to the type of seat post:

• Double bolts using a 5 mm Allen wrench- 80-125 lb•in (9.6-14.1 N•m).

• Single bolt using a 13 or 14 mm open-end wrench-180-220 lb•in (20.3-24.9 N•m).

• Single bolt using a 6 mm Allen wrench- 150-250 lb•in (17-28.3 N•m).

• Double bolts using a 4 mm Allen wrench- 45-60 lb•in (5-6.8 N•m).

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WARNING

Extended riding with a poorly adjusted saddle or one that does not properly support your pelvic area can cause injury to your nerves and blood vessels.

If your saddle causes pain or numbness, re-adjust the saddle position. If after adjustment your saddle still causes pain or numbness, consult your dealer about further positioning or replacing the saddle with one that better fits you.

To adjust the seat height of a bicycle

1. Sit on the seat in riding position without shoes, while someone holds the bicycle up.

2. Position the crank arms so they are parallel to the seat tube.

3. Loosen the seat post binder bolt, or quick-release.

4. Extend the seat post until, with your heel resting on the bottom pedal, your extended leg is straight.

When wearing your shoes there should be a slight bend in your knee in a proper riding position; with the ball of your foot on the pedal.

5. Make sure the minimum insertion mark on the seat post is not visible above the bike frame. A minimum of 21/2” (64 mm) of the seat post must remain in the frame.

6. Close the seat post quick-release, or tighten the bolt to 85-125 lb•in

(9.6-14.1N•m)

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The Seat Height

Leg extension with correct seat height.

A

The Seat Post

A - This line must be inside the bike frame and not visible

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WARNING

A seat post that is positioned too high can damage the bike and can cause you to lose control and fall. Make sure the minimum insertion mark is inside the frame.

3.6 PEDALS

The left pedal is left-hand threaded, while the right pedal is right-hand (normal) threaded.

Tighten pedals into the crank arms to 350-380 lb•in (40.2-42.9 N•m).

Adjustment of pedal bearings requires special tools and training.

These services should only be performed by your dealer.

3.7 CHAIN SET AND BOTTOM BRACKET

To check the bottom bracket bearing adjustment

1. Lift the chain from the chain rings.

2. Rotate the crank so that one of the arms is parallel to the seat tube.

3. Put one hand on the crank arm and one hand on the seat tube, and attempt to move the crank arm laterally toward and away from the seat tube.

4. Spin the cranks.

If the crank feels or sounds loose, or if the motion stops abruptly or you hear a grinding noise coming from the bearings, the bearings need to be serviced.

Servicing the bottom bracket bearings requires special tools and training. These services should only be performed by your dealer.

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3.8 CHAIN

To adjust the chain tension on a single speed or internal hub gear bike

There should be between 6 and 10mm vertical movement on the chain

1. In small increments, loosen the rear wheel axle nuts on alternate sides of the wheel.

2. Slide the wheel to re-tension the chain, and centre the wheel in the frame.

Some models have a chain tensioning device which helps position the wheel.

3. Complete the wheel installation making sure that the wheel axle nuts are fully retightened.

4. Check the chain is free and does not bind by lifting the rear wheel from the ground and rotating the crank. If the motion becomes tight during rotation, re-adjust the chain tension starting with step 1.

5. For bikes with internal hub gears the shifter cable will require adjustment.

WARNING

The chain tension when running fixed wheel is critical. If the chain tension is set too loose the chain can become detached from the drivetrain gears.

If the chain tension is set too tight the gears can bind.

The Chain

Checking chain tension

Wheel Adjustment

The wheel adjustment screw

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3.9 CABLES AND SHIFTERS

Check the cables for kinks, rust, broken strands, or frayed ends.

Also check the housing for loose wire strands, bent ends, cuts, and wear.

If you suspect a problem with a cable, do not ride the bicycle.

Take the bicycle to your dealer for repair and service.

Shifters

The position of the shifters can be adjusted on the handlebar.

Follow the instructions for adjusting the lever position on pages xx-xx

3.10 3 & 5 SPEED STURMEY ARCHER

INTERNAL HUB GEAR SYSTEMS

To adjust the shifter cable and set the shifting

1. Rotate the shifter to the 2nd gear position.

2. Remove the indicator protection cover (if fitted)

2. Align the coloured line on the push rod with the end of the axle as viewed through the rear hub nut window.

3. If the indicators do not line up, adjust the gear cable tension by rotating the barrel adjuster until this alignment is achieved.

4. Shift to 1st gear, then back to 2nd, and re-check the adjustment.

Hub Gear System

A - Indicator protection cover

B - Barrel adjuster

C - Coloured line on push rod

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3.11 ALFINE AND NEXUS 4, 7, 8 OR 11 SPEED

SHIMANO INTERNAL HUB GEAR SYSTEMS

To adjust the rear shifting

1. Rotate the shifter to the 4th gear position.

2. Align the indicator on the rear hub pulley with the cog joint bracket.

3. If the red lines do not line up, adjust the gear cable tension by rotating the barrel adjuster until this alignment is achieved.

4. Shift to 1st gear, then back to 4th, and re-check the adjustment.

3.12 MULTIPLE GEAR FRONT AND REAR DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS:

Front derailleur

To adjust the small chainring position

1. Shift the chain onto the smallest front chainring and the largest rear cog.

2. Loosen the front derailleur cable clamp bolt until the cable is free.

3. Turn the low gear adjusting screw (marked “L”) until the inner chain guide of the derailleur is approximately 0.5 mm from the chain.

4. Pull on the cable end, and down-shift the left shift lever several times so that it is in the small-chainring position.

5. On the shifter or down tube, turn the shift cable adjusting barrel to its most clockwise position.

6. Insert the cable in the groove found next to the derailleur cable clamp bolt, pull the cable taut, andtighten the bolt:

• Front derailleur cable clamp bolt- 44-60 lb•in (5.0-6.8 N•m).

C

A

Gear Front & Rear Derailleur

A - Pulley and Cog

B - Cog joint bracket

C- Cable Clamp Bolt

B

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To adjust the big chainring position

1. Shift the rear derailleur to the smallest rear cog.

2. Turn the high-gear adjusting screw (marked “H”) counter-clockwise until it cannot interfere with the motion of the derailleur.

3. Hand-turn the cranks, and use the shifter to carefully shift the chain onto the outside chainring.

4. Position the outer chain guide of the front derailleur approximately

0.5 mm from the chain.

5. Re-tighten the high gear adjusting screw until it meets resistance.

If you have turned the screw too far, the front derailleur will move toward the small chainring.

6. Go through the various gear combinations. Make sure the chain does not fall off when you shift, and the derailleur cage does not rub on any part of the crankset.

C

A

Middle Gear Adjustment

A - Cable

B - Adjusting screws

C - Cable Clamp Bolt

To adjust the middle gear position, with three chainrings

1. Shift the chain onto the largest front chainring and the smallest rear cog.

2. Rotate the cable tension barrel-adjuster (on the downtube, or on the lever) counter-clockwise, increasing cable tension to align the inner derailleur cage until it just touches the chain.

3. Go through the various gear combinations to ensure the chain smoothly lines up with all the chainrings.

Note: some front shifters have a ‘tab’ feature: slightly downshift the lever and the derailleur will move in slightly, no longer touching the chain.

B

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Rear derailleur

To adjust the small cog position

1. Shift the chain onto the smallest rear cog and the largest front chainring.

2. Loosen the cable clamp bolt until the cable is free.

B

A

3. Stand behind the bicycle to see that the smallest rear cog, the chain, and the two derailleur pulleys are in line.

4. If they are not aligned, turn the high gear adjusting screw (usually marked “H”,) until this line is established.

5. While pulling on the cable, up-shift until the shifter is in the small cog position.

6. On the shifter or down tube, turn the adjusting barrel all the way clockwise.

Turn the adjusting barrel on the rear derailleur all the way clockwise, and then one turn counter-clockwise.

C

7. Insert the cable into the clamp bolt groove on the rear derailleur, pull the shift cable taut, and tighten the cable clamp bolt to 44-60 lb•in (5.0-6.8 N•m).

To adjust the large cog position

1. Turn the low gear adjusting screw on the rear derailleur (usually marked “L”) far enough counter-clockwise that. it will not restrict the movement of the derailleur.

2. Carefully shift the chain onto the smallest front chainring and the largest rear cog.

Rear Mech

A - Adjustimg Screws

B - Barrel adjuster

C - Cable Clamp Bolt

D - Cable

Do not over-shift the rear derailleur, or the chain may wedge between the large cog and the spokes.

3. Position the rear derailleur pulleys in line with the largest cog.

4. Turn the low gear adjusting screw clockwise until it meets resistance.

If you have turned it too far, the derailleur will move toward the outside of the bicycle.

5. Go through the various gear combinations. Make sure the chain does not fall off when you shift.

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D

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To align the indexing system

1. Shift the chain onto the largest front chainring and the smallest rear cog.

2. Shift one click with the rear shifter.

3. Check if the chain moves smoothly to the next gear.

• If the chain makes excessive noise or does not shift, turn the barrel-adjuster counter-clockwise in small increments and check again for a smooth shift.

• If instead, the chain moves to the third smallest cog, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise until the derailleur pulleys align with the second smallest cog.

4. Go through the gear combinations to ensure the chain smoothly lines up with all the rear cogs.

If the derailleur cannot be adjusted in this manner, the derailleur hanger may be out of alignment; take the bike to your dealer for service.

3.13 BRAKE LEVERS

The brake system allows you to slow or stop your bike, a function critical to your safety. The brake system is difficult to adjust properly without the proper tools and training. It is strongly recommended that adjustment of a brake be done by your dealer. If you need more specific information regarding your brake system, contact your dealer.

A

A - Lever clamp bolt

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To adjust the position of a lever

1. Locate the lever clamp bolt.

2. Loosen the clamp bolt 2-3 turns.

3. Position the lever.

4. Tighten the clamp bolt:

• Regular brake levers- 53-69 lb•in (6.0-7.8 N•m).

• On mid-bar levers (Figure 27)- 20-30 lb•in (2.3-3.3 N•m).

3.14 BRAKES

Once a month, inspect brake pads for wear. If the grooves in the braking surface are less than 2 mm deep, replace the pads.

To adjust brake pad clearance to the rim

1. Turn the barrel adjuster. To increase the pad clearance, turn the barrel adjuster in (clockwise).

To reduce the pad clearance, turn the barrel adjuster out (counter-clockwise).

For most direct-pull or cantilever systems the barrel adjuster is on the lever.

For most road calliper systems the barrel adjuster is on the brake itself.

2. If the brake pads cannot be adjusted properly, loosen the cable clamp bolt and re-attach the cable.

Disk Brave Lever

A - Lever, clamp bolt

A

Drop Bar Lever

A - Lever, clamp bolt

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To adjust the alignment of the brake pads on a rim bike

1. Loosen the brake pad fixing bolt.

2. Align the pads as shown in Section 1.3, and tighten the pad fixing bolts:

• Road caliper- 40-60 lb•in (4.5-6.8 N•m)

3. After adjusting the brakes, test them by applying force to the levers.

Ensure the cable does not slip, the pads close toward the rim at right angles, and the pads do not contact the tyre.

To open the brake for wheel removal

1. Lift the brake release lever to the open UP position.

To close, simply turn the lever to the Down position.

To align a cable-actuated brake

There are several parts to this procedure:

• To adjust right brake pad clearance to the disc

1. Turn the fixed pad adjuster.

2. If the pads cannot be adjusted properly in this manner, follow the instructions.

• To adjust left brake pad clearance to the disc, and re-set the right pad.

• To adjust left brake pad clearance to the disc

Road Brakes

A - Barrel adjuster

B - Centering screw

C - Pad fixing bolt

D - Brake release lever

A

D

B

C

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1. Turn the cable barrel adjuster. To increase the pad clearance, turn the barrel adjuster in (clockwise). To reduce the pad clearance, turn the barrel adjuster out (counter-clockwise).

2. If the pads cannot be adjusted properly in this manner, loosen the cable clamp bolt and re-attach the cable.

Tighten the cable clamp bolt to 50-70 lb•in (5.7-7.9 N•m).

3. After adjustment, turn the locking nut clockwise to help prevent rotation of the barrel adjuster.

A

To align the brake with the disk

1. Loosen the brake mounting bolts.

Disk Brakes

A - Mounting bolts

B - Fixed pad adjuster

C - Cable clamp bolt

2. Slide a business card, or similar thin object, between the right brake pad and the disc.

3. Apply the lever fully, and gradually tighten the bolts to 100-110 lb•in (11.3-12.4 N•m).

To remove disc break pads

1. Remove the wheel.

2. With your fingers or thin-tipped pliers, grasp the installation tang of the brake pad and pull out.

To open the brake for wheel removal

• For most road calipers, lift the brake release lever to the open UP position.

To close, simply turn the lever to the Down position.

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B

C

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• For Campagnolo levers, there is a release button at the top of the lever.

Slightly depress the brake lever, and push the button until it is flush with the lever body. Release the lever and the brake will open.To close, reverse the instructions.

• For cantilever brakes, release the linkwire. With one hand, squeeze the brake pads firmly against the rim. With the other hand, pull the leaded end of the linkwire from the retaining fork on the brake arm.

Release the brake pads, and the brake will open.

Coaster Brakes

To close the brake, reverse the instructions.

Coaster brake

The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism which is a part of the bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the rotation of the pedal cranks.

Start with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. About 1/8 turn rotation will activate the brake.

The more downward pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point where the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.

WARNING

Before riding, make sure that the brake is working properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle checked by your dealer before you ride it.

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WARNING

If your bike has only a coaster brake, ride conservatively.

A single rear brake does not have the stopping power of front-and-rear brake systems.

2. Adjusting your coaster brake

Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your coaster brake.

Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.

Quick release wheel

WARNING

Brake pads remove material when the brake is applied. If too much material is removed, the rim may become weak and fail suddenly, causing a loss of control. Regularly inspect your rims for wear and replace them when they are worn.

3.15 WHEELS

Inspect tyres for wear and damage. Make sure rims are clean, and check for wear; if the grooves on the braking surface disappear, replace the rim. Make sure there are no loose, damaged, or broken spokes. Check that hub bearings are properly adjusted. Make sure a rim strip is in place and all spoke holes are completely covered.

The Nutted wheel

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To install an axle-nut wheel

Wheels are attached by nuts threaded onto the axle. The front wheel may require a toothed washer to be placed between the nut and fork tip.

1. Tighten the axle nuts:

• Tighten a regular front wheel to 180-240 lb•in (20.3-27.1 N•m).

• Tighten a regular rear wheel to 240-300 lb•in (27.1-33.9 N•m).

2. Test to ensure that you have properly tightened the axle-nuts. Pick up the bike, and sharply hit the top of the tyre.

The wheel must not come off, be loose, or move from side to side.

If the wheel attachment fails the test, repeat these procedures, including the tests, or take your bicycle to your dealer for service.

To reverse the rear wheel – “flip / flop” operation

Some bikes are supplied with a “flip / flop” rear hub. This enables the rider to choose between freewheel and fixed wheel riding. For more information on the differences between the two go to www.cooperbikes.com

To change between fixed and free wheel riding.

1. Lift the rear brake release lever to provide clearance to the wheel and tyre

2. Slacken the rear wheel axle nuts and back-off or remove the chain tensioning device

3. Lift the chain from the rear wheel gear

4. Remove the rear wheel

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5.

Refit the rear wheel in the reversed condition

6.

Refit the chain

7.

Set the chain tension using the chain tensioning device (see section 3.7)

8.

Re-tighten the axle nuts (see section 3.13)

9.

Recheck the chain tension and adjust as necessary

10.

Lower the rear brake release lever to provide normal brake operation

11.

Check the operation of the rear brake before riding

WARNING

Ensure you are competent and trained to ride your bike with a fixed gear. Before you ride, make sure that it is safe and legal to ride in this condition.

3.16 ACCESSORIES

Once a month, check any accessories to make sure they are properly attached. If any part seems loose or misaligned, either tighten the part or take the bike to your dealer for service.

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Chapter 4 – Lubrication & Servicing

WARNING

This section explains the parts that require lubrication, their frequency, and brief instructions. See your dealer for

4

recommended lubrications. If you need more detailed information, see other sections of this manual as needed, or consult your dealer. Re-greasing bearings requires special tools and training, so this should only be done by your dealer. Some bearings are permanently sealed and do not require yearly re-greasing.

WARNING

Only the maintenance, adjustment and lubrication items listed in this manual should be attempted by the bicycle owner.

If you are unsure consult your dealer. All other repairs and maintenance should be carried out by your dealer.

4.1 STEM

Once a year lubricate the stem.

Note: Lubricating a direct-connect stem requires adjustment of the headset bearings, so should only be done by your dealer.

1. Remove the stem from the frame.

2. Clean the stem and wipe any old grease.

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of the quill that will be inserted into the frame, including the stem wedge.

4. Install the stem.

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4.2 SEAT POST

Once a year, lubricate the seat post. Choose the method for your frame and seat post material:

Aluminium seat post in a metal frame

1. Loosen the seat post binder bolt, or open the quick-release, and remove the seat post from the frame.

2. Wipe any old grease off the seat post, and clean if necessary.

3. Apply a thin layer of grease to the section of the seat post that will be inside the frame.

4. Insert the seat post into the frame.

5. Adjust the seat to the proper height, align it, and tighten the seat post binder bolt.

4.3 PEDALS

Once a year, have your dealer re-grease the pedal bearings. Once a year re-grease the pedal axles where they thread into the crank arms.

Note:

There are right and left pedals, usually marked with a letter stamped on the end of the pedal axle, or on the wrench flats.

1. Remove the pedals; turn the right pedal spindle counter-clockwise, but turn the left clockwise.

2. Apply a layer of grease over all the threads.

3. Install the pedals on the proper side; put the right pedal on the right crank arm and the left pedal on the left crank arm.

4. Tighten the pedals.

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4.4 HEADSET

Once a year, have your dealer re-grease the headset bearings.

4.5 BRAKES AND BRAKE LEVERS

Every 3 months lubricate your brake lever pivots and brake arm fixing pivots with a light oil taking care not to apply oil to the wheel rims or brake pads.

4.6 WHEELS

Once a year, have your dealer check and re-grease the wheel bearings.

4.7 CHAIN

Every Month lubricate the chain and rear sprocket with specialist chain lubricant available from your dealer.

4.8 CONTROL CABLES

Lubricate cables whenever they are installed.

To install a cable

Installing a cable in a cantilever brake requires special tools and training, so should only be done by your dealer.

1. Note the path of the old cable, loosen the cable anchor bolt, and remove the worn cable.

2. Grease the new cable and reinstall, feeding it along the same path as the old cable, including through the cable anchor bolt.

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3. Make sure the leaded cable-end is seated properly in the lever, and the housing is properly seated in the lever.

If needed when installing a cable in a brake, re-adjust the brake.

4. Turn the adjusting barrel clockwise so the threads on the adjusting barrel are not exposed.

For a shift cable, put the shifter in the position with the least cable tension.

For a brake, hold the brake closed while you do the next step.

5. Tighten the cable clamp bolt to52-69 lb•in. (6-8 N•m).

6. Cut the cable so that no more than 2” (51 mm) extends beyond the anchor bolt.

7. Crimp a metal cap or place a bit of solder on the end of the cable to prevent fraying.

8. Follow the instructions for adjustment.

4.9 TYRES

Bicycle tyres are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tyres designed to perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.

The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tyres the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tyre (see fig. xx). The part of this information which is most important to you is Tyre Pressure.

WARNING

Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tyre’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure may blow the tyre off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders.

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The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tyre to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump which has a built-in pressure gauge.

Ask your dealer to recommend the best tyre pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tyres to that pressure. Then, check inflation as described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated tyres should look and feel when you don’t have access to a gauge. Some tyres may need to be brought up to pressure every week or two, so it is important to check your tire pressures before every ride.

Some special high-performance tyres have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tyre will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tyres, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.

4.10 TYRE VALVES

There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve.

The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.

All Cooper bikes come fitted with presta valve inner tubes.

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The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counter-clockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a Schraeder pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits into the Schraeder pump fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.

WARNING

We highly recommend that you carry a spare inner tube when you ride your bike. Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch correctly or apply several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in possible tube failure, which could cause you to loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as soon as possible.

MORE INFORMATION

If you would like additional information about your bicycle, maintenance, or bicycling in general, there are many resources in your community.

First, talk to your bicycle dealer. They have extensive experience with bicycles and riding in your community.

With this background, they can help you with your individual questions and help you find areas to enjoy your new bicycle. In addition, most dealers stock a variety of book about cycling, including extensive repair manuals.

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Second, check your public library. Most libraries have extensive offerings of books written by experts in the field about riding, racing, bicycle safety, bicycle maintenance, and more.

Third, go on-line, with internet access, links to some of the companies that make the parts of your bike are also provided. All of this information and help is just a click away.

LIMITED WARRANTY

All Cooper bikes are sold exclusively through our network of Authorised Dealers who we entrust with professional assembly and service of your bicycle.

Cooper Bikes warrants each new Cooper frame, rigid fork, or original component part of the bicycle against defects in workmanship and materials:

For one year-

Paint and decals

All original parts,

THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER-

Normal wear and tear

Improper assembly

Improper follow-up maintenance

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Installation of parts or accessories not originally intended for, or compatible with, the bicycle as sold

Damage or failure due to accident, misuse, abuse, or neglect

Labour charges for part replacement or changeover

This warranty is void in its entirety by any modification of the frame, fork, or components.

This warranty is expressly limited to the repair or replacement of a defective item and is the sole remedy of the warranty. This warranty extends from the date of purchase, applies only to the original owner, and is not transferable. Cooper Bikes is not responsible for incidental or consequential damages

Claims under this warranty must be made through an authorised Cooper bike dealer. Proof of purchase is required.

The subject item must be registered with Cooper Bikes, either through on-line registration or by the receipt of a warranty registration card by Cooper Bikes, before a warranty claim may be processed.

Warranty duration and detail may differ by frame type and/or by country.

This warranty gives the consumer specific legal rights, and those rights may vary from place to place.

This warranty does not affect the statutory rights of the consumer.

© Cooper Bikes

Customer Service

Phone number : +44 (0)20 7222 3098 www.cooperbikes.com

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WARRANTY INFORMATION

IMPORTANT:

Write down your Cooper Bicycle model and serial number for your records.

You will find the frame number of your Cooper Bicycle on the underside of the bottom bracket shell.

Put your receipt of sale in this manual for reference. This record will also help you with any police investigation or insurance claim and should be recorded in the front of this manual.

NOTE:

If there is a loss or theft, your personal records will be needed.

Your receipt of sale should be kept for any warranty service.

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C O O P E R

B I K E S

C O O P E R

B I K E S

6 Lewisham Street, London SW1H 9AH t: +44 (0)20 7222 3098 f: +44 (0)1903 871 223 e: [email protected] www.cooperbikes.com

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