Repair Manual
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Repair Manual
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FORDSON
1
POWER MAJOR
SUPER M
THE NElU
MANUFACTURED IN ENGLAND BY
FORD MOTOR COMPANY LTD.
FOREWORD
This manual is written to assist in the efficient repair of
the New Fordson Major Tractor. Wherever possible,
each operation is self-contained and sufficient detail is
given to ensure that unnecessary dismantling will be
avoided.
Special tools have been developed to assist when
carrying out the work and reference has been made to
these tools in the appropriate places. The tools are
numbered according to the Basic Part Number of the
component in question.
All necessary specifications, repair data and wear limits
are quoted at the end of each section and will be of
assistance when deciding if pans are suitable for further
service.
Whenever reference is made to the right- and lefthand side of the tractor, this is as viewed from the
Driver's seat, facing forward.
The tractor number is the same as the engine number
which is stamped on the left-hand top face of the flywheel
housing flange. This number is also stamped on a plate
attached to the engine front bulkhead.
Ford Policy is one of continuous imprmement and the
right to change prices, specijicat~onsand equipment a t any
time without notice is r e s m e d .
CONTENTS
7
PAGE NO.
SECTION
Engine--Diesel
... ...
-Petrol-Vaporising Oil
-Lubrication System
Cooling System
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
5
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
35
59
...
...
...
...
...
103
...
...
Fuel System-Diesel
...
...
-Fuel Tanks and Fuel Supply Taps
-Petrol/Vaporising Oil
...
...
68
75
99
...
...
...
...
...
Steering Gear
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Braking System
..
...
...
...
...
179
Wheels and Tyres
...
...
...
...
187
Electrical System
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
191
...
...
231
...
...
...
...
Separating the Tractor
Clutch
...
...
...
...
...
...
Front Transmission-Gearbox
Rear Transmission-Rear Axle
Hydraulic System
Front Axle
...
...
Supplement
...
...
115
...
...
119
...
...
...
...
129
...
...
...
...
...
137
...
...
I47
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Power Take-off Equipment
Index
...
167
... 173
242
245
COPYRIGHT IN GREAT BRITAIN, JANUARY 1954.
~epmductionin any manner, in whole or in parr, prohibircd
without the express pcrrni.sion in wiring of Ford Moror
Company Limited, 88 Regcnr Strccq London, W.,, England.
THE DIESEL ENGINE
The 3.61 litre, four cylinder, direct injection type diesel
engine fitted in the New Fordson Major Tractor has a bore
diameter of 100 mm, and a stroke of 115 mm.
0verhead7valvesare employed operated by push rods from
a gear driven camshaft located in the right-hand side of the
cylinder block. The compression ratio is 16 to 1.
The valves are fitted vertically in the cylinder head, the
inlet valve head being larger than the exhaust. The valve
guides are replaceable.
Aluminium alloy pistons are employed with a combustion
chamber machined in the crowns and have three cornprcrsion
rings and one oil ring above the piston pin and one oii control
ring below the piston pin. T h e piston pins are fully floating
and are retained in position by two circlips.
Detachable wet cylinder liners are fitted, flange-mounted
in the top face of the cylinder block and retained in position
by the cylinder head.
The crankshaft is supported in five large diameter main
bearings. These bearings and the connecting rod big end
bearings are of the detachable steel-backed lead-bronze type.
Crankshaft end-float is controlled by detachable thrust
washers fitted at each side of the centre main bearing.
An enclosed camshaft type fuel injection pump is driven
from the rear end of the auxiliary drive shaft and feeds
multi-holed type injectors located at an angle in the top of
the cylinder head.
THE ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY
T o Remove
1 Undo the adaptor nut securing the ventilation pipe
from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
2 Unscrew the two securing bolts and remove the rocker
cover and gasket.
3 Release the retaining nut on the decompressor control
(where fitted) and disengage the inner end of the
control from the rocker shaft lever.
4 Release the tab washers on the five rocker shaft bolts.
Gradually unscrew the bolts and lift off the rocker
shaft, taking care not to dislodge the rotator caps from
the exhaust valves if this type of valve assembly is
fitted. (See Fig. 1.)
5 Lift out the push rods from their block locations,
keeping them in their correct order and remove the
rotator caps which should also be kept in their correct
order.
Note - I t is possible to change a push rod without removing
the rocker shaft. This is done in the following
manner: make sure that the valve in question is
closed, slide the valve rocker sideways off the valve
stem, until its ball end can be disengaged from the
push rod cup.
T h e engine speed is controlled by a pneumatic governor
mouuted on the f ~ einjedon
l
pump. An excess fuel device
is fitted to assist cold starting.
On current engines rotator type exhaust valves are fitted.
A cap located over the end of the valve stem transmits
pressure from the rocker lever to the spring retainer and
valve spring. This anion allows the valve to remain free
throughout its operating cycle.
A decompressor, operating on all valves, was fitted to early
type engines. On current engines this is optional equipment.
Note
- The operations described in the following pages are
each complete in themselves and used in conjunction
with the instructions from page 31 onwards give
detailed information for a complete engine strip down
and rebuild.
These instructions have been prepared in orderthat the
operations mqy be completed in the quickest time, involving
the removal of the least number of component parts.
A guide as to whether a part is fit for re-use or not is given
in the form of wear limits tabulated at the end of the section.
In the case of a complete overhaul of the engine, discretion
must be exercised when re-fitting parts which, although
within the limits, may be subject to arduous service when
reassembled.
Fig. 1
Removing the Rocker Shaft
ENGINE- DIESEL
To Dismantle
Note - Where a decompressor lever is not fitted the eccentric sleeves and keys refened to are also not fitted, and
the build-up is similar to that used on the Petrol and
Vaporising Oil engines with the exception of the
rocker levers.
1 Stand the assembly on end with the decompressor
lever uppkmost, push the rocker levers, springs,
eccentric sleeves and support brackets downwards
until the pin retaining the decompressor lever or the
end plug is revealed. Remove the pin and withdraw
the decompressor lever or end plug assembly.
(See Fig. 3 . )
2 Pull off the adjacent support bracket, then the two
rockers, spacer spring and eccentric sleeve. This will
disclose the eccentric sleeve key, which must be
removed before the next support bracket can be
pulled off the shaft. Remove the remaining parts in
a similar sequence and extract the keys as they are
revealed.
3 Finally, remove the front plug after removing the
retaining pin.
To Reassemble
1 Fit the front end plug and retaining pin to that end of
the shaft which has the pin hole centrally drilled.
2 Fit the support brackets, keys, eccentric sleeves,
rocker levers and spacer springs in their correct
order as shown in Fig. 2. The front and rear brackets
are interchangeable, as also are the intermediate
brackets, which are identified by a tapped hole for the
rocker cover bolt. Ensure that the support bracket
bolt holes are to the right viewing the shaft from the
front end, with each pair of rocker levers inclined
towards each other at the valve end.
Fig. 3
Decompressor Lever
3 Complete the assembly by pushing all the parts
towards the front of the rocker shaft and fitting the
decompressor lever and its retaining pin.
To Replace
1 Fit the push rods in their original position and place
the rotator caps on the exhaust valve stems if this type
of valve assembly is fitted. Care should be taken to
prevent these caps falling in the engine.
Fig. 2
Rocker Shaft and Supports
ENGINE-DIESEL
6 Remove the injectors as described in the Fuel
System Section.
7 Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds as described
on page 8.
8 Unscrew the seventeen bolts retaining the cylinder
head to the cylinder block in the order shown in
Fig. 4.
9 Lift off the cylinder head and remove the gasket and
rocker shaft oil feed seal.
Note - Current type cylinder head bolts are marked
" 100 " on rhe head.
T o Replace
Fig. 4
Correct Sequence for Loosening Cylinder Head Bolts
2 Fit the rocker shaft to the cylinder head, entering the
adjusting screw ball ends in the push rod cups and
engage the decompressor control with the decompressor lever.
3 Fit and tighten down evenly the five rocker shaft
support bracket bolts and lock with the tab washers.
4 Adjust the valve clearances initially to 0.015 in. for
inlet valves and exhaust valves without rotators.
Rotator type exhaust valves should be set to 0.012 in.
Ensure that all locknuts are tightened.
Note
Ensure that the decompressor control is pushed in
and the locking nut screwed in before carrying out
the valve adjustment.
5 Warm up the engine and if necessary readjust the valve
clearance to 0.015 in. for inlet valves and exhaust
valves without rotators and 0.012 m. for rotator type
exhaust valves.
6 Fit the rocker cover and gasket and fighten down the
two securing bolts which are fitted wlth folded copper
sealing washers.
7 Fit the ventilation suction pipe between the rocker
cover and the inlet manifold.
-
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY AND GASKET
T o Remove
1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
terminal post.
2 Remove the radiator filler cap and drain the
water from the cooling system through the two taps,
one on the radiator and one on the left-hand side of
the cylinder block.
3 Disconnect the radiator tie bar, remove the water
outlet connection and lift out the thermostat.
4 Remove the temperature gauge connection from the
front of the cylinder head.
5 Remove the rocker cover, gasket, rocker shaft and
push rods as described on page 5.
1 Thoroughly clean off all dirt, carbon, etc., from the
cylinder block, cylinder head faces and the recess in
the cylinder block for the rocker shaft oil feed seal.
2 Fit a new rocker shaft oil feed seal and screw the
cylinder head locating studs (tool No. T T r / M D 6050)
into opposite corners of the cylinder block face and
locate the new cylinder head gasket in position.
3 Replace the cylinder head and screw in the seventeen
bolts and tighten in the correct order, as shown in
Fig. 5, to the correct torque shown in the specification.
4 Replace the inlet and exhaust manifolds as described
on page 8.
5 Replace the injectors as described in the Fuel System
Section.
6 Replace the rocker shaft, push rods, rocker cover and
gasket, and adjust valve clearances as described on
this page.
7 Replace the temperature gauge connection in the
front of the cylinder head.
8 Refit the thermostat, water outlet connection and the
radiator tie bar.
9 Refill the cooling system.
10 Reconnect the battery lead to the battery terminal
post.
Fig. 5
Correct Sequence for Tightening Cylinder Head Bolts
ENGINE- DIESEL
THE INLET AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
Oil seals are fitted to the stems of aU valves with the
exception of the rotator type exhaust valves.
To Remove
1 Lift off the vertical type exhaust pipe. If the
horizontal type is fitted, disconnect the pipe at the
manifold.
2 Unscrew the clips at either end of the rubber hose
between the air cleaner and the inlet manifold and
remove the hose.
3 Disconnect the throttle control rod.
4 Disconnect, at the manifold end, the two suction pipes
from the pneumatic governor. Also disconnect and
remove the ventilation suction pipe between the
rocker cover and the inlet manifold.
5 Unscrew the manifold to head bolts and lift away the
manifolds.
i o Replace
1 Fit the manifolds using new gaskets, and screw in the
retaining bolts evenly, making sure that the clamping
washers are correctly positioned in their recesses.
2 Connect the pneumatic governor suction pipes, making
sure that the bleed pipe (i.e. the outer pipe on the
governor casing) is fitted to the upper connection on
the inlet manifold, and refit the ventilation suction
pipe between the rocker cover and the inlet manifold.
To Renew a Valve Spring (without removing the
cylinder head)
1 Remove the rocker cover and rocker shaft assembly,
push rods and rotator caps (if fitted), as described on
page 5.
2 Turn the piston on the cylinder beneath the valve
affected, to the top of its stroke.
3 Refit a rocker shaft support bolt adjacent to the
affected valve, slide the block of the valve spring
compressor (toolNo. TTr/D 6513) under the bolt head
and tighten down the bolt. Pull down the cam
handle to compress the valve and extract the collets.
(See Fig. 6.)
4 Release the cam handle and remove the spring
retainer, valve spring and rubber sealing ring.
5 Fit a new valve spring with the close-coiled end to the
cylinder head and replace the spring retainer.
Compress the valve spring and fit a new rubber sealing
ring into the lower groove of the valve stem where
applicable and locate the collets.
6 Remove the tool and replace the push rods, rotator
caps, rocker shaft assembly and rocker cover, as
described on page 6.
7 Readjust the valve clearances to the figure specfied.
NOTE - THE ENGINE MUST NOT BE RUN WITH
THE GOVERNOR PIPES DISCONNECTED,
AS UNDER THESE CONDITIONS THE
GOVERNOR IS INOPERATIVE, AND SERIOUS
DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
3 Reconnect the throttle control rod.
4 Refit the rubber hose between the inlet manifold and
the air cleaner.
5 Replace the horizontal type exhaust pipe with two bolts
and a nut, or if vertical type, replace in adaptor.
VALVES, GUIDES AND SPRINGS
The valves are mounted vertically in the cylinder head
and operated from the camshaft by conventional type push
rods and rocker arms. The diameter of the inlet valve head
is greater than that of the exhaust valve to improve engine
breathing.
On current engines rotator type exhaust valves are fitted
and the operation of these is described overleaf. The
inlet valve on aU engines remains the same.
Fig. 6
Valve Spring Compressor
.a
Fig. 7
\L
TIMING GEARS
LINER SEALING RlNG
CONNECTING ROD
GENERATOR
WATER PUMP
PISTON RlNG
VALVE GUIDE
THERMOSTAT
VALVE SPRING
VA L VE SPRING RETAINER
VALVE COLLET
OIL SCREEN
OIL FILTER
PUMP DRIVE COUPLING
Sectioned View of Diesel Engine
FRONT MOUNTING PLATE
PUMP
AUXILIARY DRIVE SHAFT
CRANKSHAF
\---OIL
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
FUEL INJECTOR PUMP
HAND PRIMER
STOP CONTROL LEVER
INJECTOR PIPE
INJECTOR LEAK-OFF PIPE
ROCKER ARM ADJUSTER
OIL FlLLER CAP
ENGINE-DIESEL
It is important that this clearance of between 0.002 in. and
0.006 in. is maintained.
Rotator-type Exhaust Valves
Engines equipped with rotator type exhaust valves (see
Fig. 8) can be identified without removing the rocker cover,
by inspecting the valve assemblies through the oil filler
aperture. If this type exhaust valve is fitted, the overall
height of the exhaust valve spring assemblies is much greater
than those of thdinlet valves. In addition, the valve spring
retainers on the exhaust valves are approximately flush with
the valve stem ends.
The cylinder head incorporating this type of exhaust valve
assembly does not have a recess for the exhaust valve spring
in the cylinder head. Recesses are still provided for the
inlet valve springs. (See Fig. 9). These heads also incorporate solid type injector housings.
A small cap is fitted over the end of the valve stem, so that
the pressure from the rocker lever is transmitted direct to the
valve spring retainer and valve spring, and the valve itself
is relieved of spring pressure during the working cycle.
To achieve this condition, a slight clearance exists between
the valve cap and the end of the valve stem (see Fig. 10).
If the clearance is insufficient, then the valve may not be
relieved of the spring pressure during the working cycle,
or if it is excessive, the valve may hammer on the collets and
lead to excessive wear.
In service, the depth of the cap can be determined either
by using a depth micrometer or by measuring the overall
length of the cap, and subtracting from it the thickness of
the top of the cap. The distance from the end of the valve
stem to the outer end of the collet groove should alsa be
measured carefully.
The difference in these two dimensions thus obtained
should be between 0.002 in. and 0.006 in. With new parts the
manufacturing tolerances are such that the clearances should
always be within the limits specified.
After the valves have been in service for some time, a small
amount can be polished off the open end of the cap if the
clearance exceeds 0.006 in. or from the valve stem end if
the clearance is less than 0.002 in.
Fig. 8
Rotator Type Exhaust Valve
ENGINE- DIESEL
2 Lay the cylinder head on a flat surface to support the
valves.
3 Mount the valve spring compressor (tool No. TTr/D
6513) on the cylinder head and secure it with the
rocker shaft support bolt nearest the valve to be
removed.
4 Locate the foot of the tool over the valve, compress
the spring, extract the collets and remove the retainer,
spring and rubber seal. Repeat for all valves.
5 Turn the head on its side and remove the valves.
Do not stamp the heads of the valves with a centre
punch, but place them with their components in a
suitable container so that they may be refitted to the
port from which they were removed.
Fig. 9
Short Exhaust Valve Guide and Spring Recess
The faces of the collets which contact the cap must be
flat and square.
A number of engines were produced having a cylinder
head incorporating integral type injector housings but without
rotator type exhaust valves.
VALVE GUIDES
Valve guides are serviced for both inlet and exhaust
valves, and may be removed and replaced, using tool No.
TrID 6510-AB.
If worn beyond the limits specified at the end of thii
section, the valve guides should be renewed.
CLEARANCE
002in. TO 006in.
These cylinder heads do not incorporate the short exhaust
valve guides as do the current engines but they do have
recesses for both exhaust and inlet valve springs.
------
It is possible to fit the rotator type exhaust valve assemblies
to all cylinder heads having solid type injector housings.
On heads having recesses for the exhaust valve springs a
valve spring recess spacer will be required for each valve
spring location.
Removal and replacement of rotator type exhaust valves
is carried out in the same way as the early type, except that
particular care should be taken to ensure that the chamfered
ends of the short valve guides do not become damaged and
that rotator caps are not dislodged and dropped into the
engine.
To Remove Valves
1 Remove the rocker shaft assembly and cylinder head,
see pages 5, 6 and 7.
Fig. 10
Valve cap'Clesrance
ENGINE- DIESEL
To Remove
1 Pass the rod of the valve guide remover and replacer
(tool No. T r / D 6510-AB) through the guide to be
withdrawn so that the tool body abuts the valve seat,
enter the spacer on the rod and screw on the retainer.
2 Turn the &ing nut and pull the guide from the cylinder
head.
The rialves, springs, guides and retainers should be
cleaned and the valve faces and valve seatings in the
cylinder head examined for signs of pitting, burning
or distortion.
T o Replace
1 Pass the rod of the valve guide remover and replacer
(tool No. T r / D 6510-AB) through the valve guide
housing so that the tool body abuts the valve seat.
VALVE
A
B
INLET
1:88ins.
1.5ins.
I EXHAUST
2 Locate the guide, then the correct adaptor. (See
Fig. 11.) "Code 3 " is suitable for all valve guides
where the head incorporates the valve spring recess.
Code " Diesel Exhaust " is used for guides fitted to
cylinder heads without a spring recess.
The use of the correct adaptor will ensure that the
guide is correctly positioned, i.e., early type exhaust
and all inlet valves 0.820-0.880 in. protrusion above
the spring seat and with the short type exhaust valve
guides 0.690-0.750 in.
/
I.69ins.
I
1.3ins.
Fig. 12
Valve Seat Insert Driver
3
Turn the wing nut to pull the guide into its housing
and continue to do so until the adaptor abuts the face
of the valve spring seat on the cylinder head.
VALVE SEAT INSERTS
VALVE GUIDES
Where replaceable valve inserts are fitted in the cylinder
head, they can be renewed, if necessary, by following the
instructions given below.
The first operation is to remove the original insert and the
utmost care must be taken to avoid damage to the cylinder
head. The easiest method for removal is to position a bar
through the insert so that the end locates under its lower
inside edge, suitably protecting the edge of the head on
which the fulcrum point of the bar rests. A smart tap on
the outer end of the bar will force the insert out of the cylinder
head.
A new insert should be placed in the reccss in the cylinder
head, chamfered edge first. I t can then be pressed home
with the aid of a driver, tool No. 6057D/19 (Inlet) and
6057D/20 (Exhaust) rings with 316-12 pilot. If not available
suitable drivers can be made locally from the details given
in Fig. 12. Great care should be taken to ensure that the
insert is entered squarely in its recess and an extension to
the driver, to locate in the valve guide, may be found
advantageous.
Fig. 1 1
Replacing the Valve Guides
Peening or rolling the surrounding metal of the cylinder
head over the edge of the insert is unnecessary, as the
ENGINE-DIESEL
Standard
Exhaust
,010"01s dia.
std. deoth
1.887"-1.888"
0.301"-0.306"
1.699"-1.700"
0.301"-0.306"
Inlet
,010" 01s dia.
I
I
l
Fig. 13
Valve Seat Insert Data
interference fit is such that the insert will be firmly retained
in the cylinder head.
Suitable cutters are marketed to enable the cylinder head
to be machined to accept an insert where not previously
fitted and also to permit an oversize insert to be fitted,
should the original for any reason need renewing.
The dimensions of standard and oversize inserts can be
obtained from the table shown in Fig. 13.
VALVE SEATS
If the valve seats show signs' of pitting, burning or other
evidence of gas leakage, they should be machined or hand
ground according to their condition. Remember that
hand grinding is a finishing process and on no account should
excessive hand grinding be attempted, otherwise the seat
angles may be altered and the seat width increased excessively.
Valves which are badly burned, distorted or which have been
previously ground to the limits should be discarded and new
parts fitted as replacements. Always grind a replacement
valve into its seating.
1 With the valve removed, apply a small amount of
medium or fine grinding paste to the valve face and
replace in correct port.
2 Rotate the valve lightly, using a suitable suction
grinding tool, first in one direction then in the other,
raising the valve off its seat from time to time and
turning it approximately one-quarter of a turn to
ensure a concentric seat.
3 Add more h e grinding paste if necessary and
continue the operation until an even, clean, matt-grey
finish has been obtained on a seating between
in.
and in. in width, keeping as near to the lower limit
as possible in the case of rotator type valves. If the
condition cannot be reached, it will be necessary to
reface or re-cut the valves and101 seats.
After grinding-in the valves, carefully clean all
paste and foreign matter from the seats and valves.
If it should be necessary at any time to re-cut the valve
seats in the cylinder head, one of the proprietary portable
valve seat grinding machines with the stone faced to 30°,
should be used.
Care should be taken when re-cutting the valve seats to
ensure that too much metal is not removed. As narrow a
valve seat as possible should always be maintained.
If the valve seats in the cylinder head are badly damaged,
valve seat inserts should be fitted.
VALVE GRINDING
If the valve face is found to be unduly pitted or distorted,
it should be refaced on a suitable valve grinding machine to
an angle of 2964 Fig. 14 shows a valve mounted in such a
machine. The gkinding should continue only until the face
is true and free of pits, as the removal of an excessive amount
of metal may thin the edge of the valve head to a degree where
it will " curl " and overheat under operating conditions.
For a similar reason the valve will be unduly lowered in its
seating in the cylinder head and " pocketing " will result.
If a valve tends towards t h i ~ e s sat the edge, particularly
after refacing, it is more satisfactory to renew it.
Fig. 14
Grinding the Valve Face
13
ENGINE- DIESEL
VALVE SPRINGS
Similar valve springs are used for the inlet and exhaust
valves. They are " close-coiled " at one end to increase
their efficiency and, when assembling, this end must be
positioned against the valve spring seat on the cylinder head.
Before re-use all the valve springs should be carefully
examined, with particular attention to squareness of ends
and pressure developed at the compressed lengths.
tappet foot on the heel of the cam the clearance between the
end of the valve stem and the rocker arm should be
approximately 0.015 in. measured initially for the inlet and
exhaust valves without rotators. Rotator type exhaust valves
should be set to 0.012 in. clearance.
After the engine has been started up the tappets should be
checked and readjusted if necessary, when the engine is
running at its normal working temperanue.
T o Replace the Valves
Remove all traces of grinding paste and foreign
matter from the valve heads and stems and from the
seats and guides in the cylinder head.
Oil the valve stems and guides to provide initial
lubrication.
Insert each valve in its correct port.
P U S H R O D S AND TAPPETS
Push rods should be checked for straightness before
fitting to the engine. T h e tappets can only be removed
from the crankcase locations after the camshaft has been
withdrawn.
Note
- Diesel and Vaporising Oil engine push rods are not
interchangeable.
(See Specification.)
With the cylinder head on a flat surface to support
the valves, locate the valve springs in the spring
retainers with the closed coils to the cylinder head.
DECARBONISING
Using the valve spring compressor (tool No. T T r / D
6513) as for dismantling, compress each valve spring
in turn and fit a new rubber seal (except rotator type
exhaust valves) in the lower groove in the valve stem
and position the valve collets. Remove the tool.
I t is difficult to lay down any set period when it will be
necessary to carry out decarbonising a diesel engine.
All other factors contributing towards loss of power, etc.,
such as faulty injectors and dirty air cleaners, should be
checked before assuming that the cause is the need for
decarbonising.
Replace the cylinder head as described on page 7.
1 Remove the cylinder head assembly as described on
page 7.
Adjusting the Valve Clearances
After replacing the rocker shaft assembly and push rods it
will be necessary to readjust the valve clearances. With the
2 If the valves require attention, they should be
removed and treated as described on pages 12 and 13.
Carbon Removal
I t is essential that absolute cleanliness is observed
throughout the following operations to prevent any possibility
of consequential damage resulting from particles of carbon
falling into the engine and causing scoring of the cylinder
bores, pistons, bearings, etc.
1 Clean all the carbon from the face of the cylinder
head and from all ports. Ensure that no b u m ace
made on the machined face of the cylinder head.
2 Apply a smear of grease inside the tops of the cylinders
and rotate the engine until numbers 1 and 4 pistons
are at the top of their strokes. This causes the grease
to fill up the gap between the piston crown and the
cylinder wall and prevents carbon particles from
reaching the ring grooves and subsequently causing
wear.
3 Cover up numbers 2 and 3 bores and all water and oil
ways, using clean rag, to prevent the entry of carbon
and dirt.
4 With a suitable scraper remove all the carbon from
the piston crowns and combustion chambers, taking
care not to scratch the pistons alumininm alloy.
Fig, i5
Removing Injector Housing
5 When,numbers 1 and 4 piston crowns are completdy
free of carbon, repeat the process of greasing on
numbers 2 and 3, turn these pistons to the top of their
strokes and cover up numbers 1 and 4 bores.
ENGINE- DIESEL
Note
- Leave
the piston crowns absolutely clean and
smooth, as carbon will not deposit so fast on a smooth
surface, but do not use any form of abrasive, as
particles may find their way into the working parts of
the engine.
6 Clean all piston crowns and cylimder bores with a
paraffin moistened non-fluffy rag, lubricate with
engine oil and cover for protection until the cylinder
head assembly is to be replaced.
Rea'ssemble the valves to the cylinder head and
refit the head as described in the appropriate section.
INJECTOR HOUSINGS AND SEALS
On earlier production engines, copper housings are fitted
in the cylinder head, the injectors being situated in these
housings.
8 Screw down the top nut of the tool to withdraw the
injector housing and remove the seal from its recess
in the head.
T o Replace
1 Thoroughly clean out the cylinder head location,
especially the recess for the rubber seal and the lower
face.
2 Smear a new rubber seal with soft soap, and fit it in
its cylinder head location.
3 Enter the injector housing in its cylinder head location,
and tap into position using the Replacer, part of the
Removal tool, and a suitable mallet. (See Fig. 16.)
4 Replace the injectors as described in the Fuel System
section.
Normally, it should not be necessary to remove the
injector housings which are a light tap fit in the cylinder
head.
5 Replace the rocker shaft, rocker cover and gasket as
Should it be necessary to remove any or all of these
houshgs the remover tool (No. T r / D D 993148-AB) should
he used. New rubber seals and copper housings should
always be used as replacements.
6 Refill the cooling system.
T o carry out this operation there is no necessity to remove
the cylinder head.
On later production diesel engines the injector housings
are cast integral with the cyliider head and a plain copper
washer is used to ensure a gastight joint between the
injector nozzle and cylinder head.
described on page 6.
S U M P AND GASKETS
T o Remove
1 Remove the sump drain plug and drain off the engine
oil. Replace the drain plug.
T o Remove
1 Drain the cooling system through the two taps, one
on the radiator and one on the left-hand side of the
cylinder block.
2 Remove the rocker cover and rocker shaft assembly as
described on page 5.
3 Remove the injectors as described on page 91, Section
Fuel System.
4 Place the plastic cup (part of the tool) in the base of
the injector housing to prevent swarf from entering
the cylinder bore.
5 Tap approximately four complete threads in the
copper housing using the tap of tool No. T r / D D
993148-AB.
Note
-
I t is ,important that the tap is entered squarely
otherwise diiculty may be experienced in removal of
the housing.
6 Screw in the puller adaptor part of the above tool.
7 Screw the puller into the adaptor and locate the tubular housing of the puller against the cylinder head.
(See Fig. 15.)
Fig. 16
Replacing Injector Housing
ENGINE- DIESEL
2 Remove the retaining bolts from the front ends of
the radius rod.
3 Remove the split pin retaining the radius rod rear
pin in its location and remove the radius rod rear pin.
4 Carefully tap the radius rod across the axle sideways
until clear of the sump and then lift it away.
5 Disconnect the track rod end on the left-hand side of
the tractor.
6 Remove the sump cover and the oil pump screen (six
bolts).
7 Unscrew the bolts retaining the sump to the cylinder
block and the flywheel housing. It will be necessary
to support the weight of the sump as it must be
lowered squarely during removal.
Replace
1 Clean off the gasket faces on the sump and cylinder
block.
Fig. 18
Engine Oil Indicator
2 Smear with grease and locate the new gaskets on the
cylinder block faces.
3 Fit a cork strip to the front main bearing cap so that
its ends are over the gaskets already fitted.
4
Fit a new lower half rear oil seal. This should be
previously soaked in engine oil for one hour and
when fitted should protrude at its ends
in. above
the sump face, in a similar manner to the upper half
seal in the cylinder block (see Fig. 17).
5 Replace the sump ensuring that all gaskets are
correctly aligned, screw in and tighten all bolts
evenly.
6 Reposition the radius rod and fit the two bolts in the
front ends and the pin in the rear end. Do not
forget the split pin.
7 Reconnect the track rod end on thc left-hand side of
the tractor.
8 Replace the oil pump screen, sump cover plate, gasket
and drain plug.
9 Refill the sump with the approved grade of oil to the
correct level.
Engine Oil Indicator
On current tractors the engine oil indicator is used in
conjunction with a steel tube pressed into the sump. It has
a metal cap secured to the shank which is located over the
top of the tube. A rubber seal is fitted inside the cap to
exclude all foreign matter. (See Fig. 18.)
If required in cases where early type tractors are operating
under adverse conditions it is possible to convert to the latest
type indicator and the following method can be adopted with
the sump in situ.
1 Drain the sump and remove cover plate and oil
pump screen.
2
Fig. 17
Rear Main Bearing Oil Seel
Ream out the full length of the oil indicator bore in
the sump to a diameter of 0.499 in. to 0.500 in.
(The outside diameter of the tube is 0.5005 in. to
0.5015 in.)
ENGINE- DIESEL
SCREEN
COVER
3 Unscrew the two outer bolts securing the oil pump
to the cylinder hlock and lower it away.
Note
- For
Dismantling, Reassembling and Testing the
Pump refer to Engine Lubrication section on pages
60 and 61.
To Replace the Oil Pump
LUG
1 Enter the oil pump in its block location ensuring that
the oil pump upper gear engages with the auxiliary
drive shaft gear and replace the two bolts securing
the oil pump to the cylinder block.
2 Thread the suction pipe though the locking plate,
screw in the union nut and secure with the tabs on
the plate. Fit the support bracket to the centre main
hearing cap.
3 Replace the sump as described on page 16 and fit the
screen and sump cover plate and gasket. Refill the
sump with clean oil of an approved grade.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
Fig. 19
Oil P u m p Screen
.
3 Press the tube into the bore, raking care not to &amage
its upper end, until it protrudes 0.6875 in.
4 Clean all swarf thoroughly from inside the sump,
replace the screen, and cover plate and gasket. Refill
with clean oil of approved grade.
Note - The latest type oil indicator is not suitable for use
on engines without the indicator tube.
Numbering Connecting Rods
Connecting rods are numbered on rod and cap when
installed in the engine to facilitate correct reassenlbly, should
they be dismantled in service. (See Fig. 20.)
The numbers are stamped on the camshaft side of the big
end so that a cap replaced with numbers together must be
in the original position. Never reassemble the cap to the
connecting rod incorrectly otherwise a true bearing surface
cannot be assured.
THE OIL PUMP
To Clean the Filter Screen
1 Drain the sump and remove the cover plate (six bolts)
and take out the screen.
2 Remove the spring clip from the screen cover and l i t
out the screen. (See Fig. 19.)
3 Wash all parts thoroughly in petrol or paraffin.
4 Check that the relief valve in the screen is operating
freely and reassemble the screen in the cover.
5 Refit the oil pump screen and replace the sump cover
plate and gasket. Refill the sump with clean oil of an
approved grade.
To Remove the Oil Pump
1 Remove the sump as described on page 15.
2 Remove the suction pipe by removing the bolt from
the support bracket on the centre main bearing cap
and unscrewing the union nut after releasing the
locking plate.
Fig. 20
Numbering Connecting Rods
ENGINE- DIESEL
It is advisable, before removing connecting rods from an
engine, to ascertain that they have been numbered, as they
may have been installed at some time after the engine left the
factory, in which case the numbering may not have been
carried out. Such connecting rods should be suitably
st~mped.
-COMPRESSION
RINGS
OIL CON ROL
RINGS -
\CIRCLIP
To Remove a Connecting Rod and Piston Assembly
1 Remove the cylinder head as described on page 7.
2 Remove the sump as described on page 15.
3 Remove the carbon from the top of the cylinder liner
with a suitable scraper.
IDENTIFICATION
MARKINGS
(
4 Turn the crankshaft so that the piston to be removed
is at the bottom of irs stroke.
5 Remove the self-locking nuts from the connecting rod
bolts and remove the cap and the bottom half of the
big end bearing liner.
6 Push the piston and connecting rod assembly up and
out of the bore taking care not to dislodge the top
half of the bearing liner. Keep the two halves of the
big end liner in their respective positions in the rod
and cap.
T o Replace a Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
1 Thoroughly clean out the cylinder liner with a clean
dry rag.
Fig. 22
Piston and Connecting Rod
2 Clean the piston, preferably using a compressed air
line. Oil the cylinder liner piston and rings lightly.
3 Position the rings so that the gaps are equally spaced
around the piston and no gap is in line with the piston
pin bore.
4 Fit the top half of the bearing liner in the connecting
rod, ensuring that the tongue on the liner engages in
the machined recess in the big end bore, smear freely
with clean oil to provide initial lubrication.
5 Compress the rings, using the ring compressor (tool
No. TTr/DDK 6153) and insert the piston and
connecting rod assembly into the bore, ensuring that
the recesses for the valves are on the opposite side to
the camshaft with the word " FRONT " stamped on
each piston crown pointing towards the front of the
engine, also check that the numbers on the connecting
rod are on the same side as the camshaft.
6 Push the piston down the bore through the compressor. (See Fig. 21.)
7 Locate the lower half of the big end bearing liner in
the cap with the tongue registering in the machined
recess and refit the cap with the stamped numbers
together and the liner smeared freely with clean oil.
8 Fit new self-locking nuts to the connecting rod bolts
and tighten with a torquc wrcnch to the current
specification.
9 Refit the sump as desnibed on page 16.
Fig. 21
Fitting Pistons
10 Refit the cylinder head as described on page 7.
ENGINE- DIESEL
With the piston ring inserted in its groove (see Fig.
23), check that the piston ring to groove clearance is
within the specified limits.
Insufficient clearance may cause piston ring seizure,
resulting in loss of compression. Excessive clearance
will contribute to oil pumping.
T o Replace
1 Replace the piston rings, oil control rings first, i11
their respective grooves. The hardened and tempered
parallel faced compression ring m u s t be fitted in the
top groove and the lower taper faced compression
rings with the word " T O P " uppermost.
2 Position the piston ring gaps so that they are evenly
spaced as described on page 18. Lubricate the
cylinder liner, piston and rings.
3 Replace the piston and connecting rod assembly as
described on page 18.
PISTONS
Fig. 23
Checking Ring ta Groove Clearance
PIS'I'ON KINGS
The current production ring layout is a hardened and
tempered, paraliel compression ring in the top groove.
Two tapered compression rings are fitted 1n the next two
grooves and it is essential that these rings are installed with
the word "TOP," marked on the top face of the ring,
uppermost, otherwise oil pumping may result.
Two normal slotted type oil control rings are fitted in the
lower two grooves, one immediately above and one below
the piston pin. (See Fig. 22.)
Only this ring combination should be used in service.
T o Remove
1 Rcmove the connecting rod and piston assembly as
described previously, and turn the piston rings in their
grooves until the five gaps are in line.
2 With the piston laid on a flat surface, rings downwards,
push three metal strips (0.020 in. feeler strip not more
than 4 in. wide is suitable) through the gaps between
the piston and ring. Work two of the strips sideways
until the three strips are equally spaced around the
piston. The rings can then be eased over the metal
strips.
Checking Piston Ring Gap
1 Insert the piston ring in the cylinder bore, centralising
it by means of a piston until the ring is on an unworn
part of the bore. The gap should then be checked by
means of a feeler gauge to ensure that it is within the
specified limits.
2 Check that the puton ring grooves are clean, especially
the oil control ring grooves, and enwre that the oil
return holes are clear.
The pistons are of aluminium alloy with solid skirts and
a combustion chamber and two recesses for the valves
machined in the crowns.
If new pistons are being installed they should be selected
to fit in the cylinder liners, using a poundage pull gauge
(tool No. 512) in conjunction with a strip of feeler steel,
9 ins. long, having a width and thickness as specified. The
feeler should be inserted into the cylinder at right angles to
the piston pin for the whole length of the piston and a pullof
between four and seven pounds should be required to remove
it, see Fig. 24.
TOOL No. 512
Fig. 24
Checking Fit of Piston in Bore
ENGINE-DIESEL
The only oversize pistons available for service are plus
0.0025 in.
To Remove a Piston f r o m a Connecting Rod
1 Remove the connecting rod and piston assembly as
described on page 18.
2 Remove7thetwo circlips, retaining the piston pin in
the piston. To assist in removing the piston pin the
piston may be warmed by insertion in boiling water.
3 Push out the piston pin.
To Replace a Piston on Connecting Rod
1 Heat the piston in boiling water to allow easy assembly
of the piston pin.
2 Insert the connecting rod benveen the piston bosses so
that the number on the connecting rod is on the
opposite side to the recesses for the valves.
3 Insert the piston pin and fit the circlip retainers in the
grooves at each end.
4 Oil the parts and reassemble as described on page 18.
PISTON PINS
The piston pin fitted to the Diesel engine is of the heavy
rype to accommodate the higher stresses imposed and for this
reason it is essential that only the correct part is fitted.
It is advisable, therefore, to warm the piston bcfore
removing or replacing the piston pin which is retained by
means of a circlip installed in a groove at each end of the
piston pin bore.
Piston pins are not interchangeable on the diesel, petrol or
vaporising oil engines. (See Specification.)
Fig. 25
Checking Connecting Rod End-float
Fig. 26
Checking for Twisted Connecting Rods
CONNECTING RODS
The connecting rods are forgings of " H " section having
steel backed, lead bronze, indium plated big end bearing
liners and separate bolts and self-locking nuts. The piston
pins are fully floating and the small end of the connecting rod
is bronze bushed.
The connecting rods in the diesel engine are heavier than
those in the petrol and vaporising oil engines, and can be
identified by the word " DIESEL " embossed on the centre
web.
The small end bushes are not serviced independently.
Renewing Connecting Rod Liners
Liners may be changed without removing the piston and
connecting rod assembly from the engine.
Connecting rod liners are available in standard and
0.010 in., 0.020 in., 0.030 in. and 0.040 in. undersize.
1 Remove the sump as described on page 15.
2 Remove the oil pump suction pipe as described on
page 17.
3 Turn the crankshaft to bring the affected big end to
boxom dead centre. Remove the self-locking nuts
and detach the cap.
4 Push up the connecting rod sufficiently to clear the
crankpin and move the big end to one side. The
upper half of the liner may now be extractcd from the
rod and a new one inserted with the tongue in the liner
engaging the machined recess in the big end bore.
5 The lower half of the liner may now be extracted from
the cap and a new one inserted as described for the
upper half in paragraph 4.
ENGINE- DIESEL
Checking for Bent Connecting Rods
The procedure is the same as for checking for twisted
connecting rods, except that the vertical pins of the gauge
are brought into contact with the machined surface (see Fig.
27). Clearance between one of the pins and the machined
face of the jig indicates small and big end bores are out of
parallel and the connecting rod is bent.
Where any connecting rods are found to be either hvisted
or bent, they should be replaced. No attempt should be
made to straighten these connecting rods.
CYLINDERS LINERS
The diesel engine is fitted with detachable wet cylinder
liners, flange-mounted in the top face of the cylinder block
and retained in position by the cylinder head. A rubber
seal is situated around the bottom of the cylinder liner to
make a water-tight joint. (See Fig. 28.)
When fitting new linirs to a block, it is essential chat the
liner protrusion above the block face is behveeu 0.002 111.
and 0.004 in. The most satisfactory method of checking
this ~rotrusion
is bv usina a straieht edee and feelers.
~I n thk event of di&lty in-obtainiu"g this i;rotrusi&, it is
possible to use shims under the liner flange to bring it
within the above limits.
~
Fig. 27
Checking for Bent Connecting Rods
Lubricate the liner and refit the big end to the
crankpin, taking care that the upper half of the liner
is not dislodged.
Replace the big end cap with the stamped numbers
together (ensure that the cap bolts are right down with
the bolt heads locating against the sides of the rod).
Fit new locknuts and tighten to the specified torque
and check the end-float by means of a feeler gauge as
shown in Fig. 25.
Replace oil pump suction pipe and sump as described
on page 17.
Replace the oil screen, sump cover plate and gasket
and radius rod, etc., as described on page 17.
~
These shims are supplied for service in 0.002 in. and
0.003 in. thickucsses.
When checking this protrusion it is also necessary to carry
out the check in more than one position to ensure that the
top flange of the cylinder liner is parallel with the top face of
the cylinder block. Should the flange be more than 0.002 in.
out of parallel with the top face of the cylinder block it is
advisable to turn the cylinder liner and recheck to sec if an
CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT
Connecting rod alignment can be checked by using the
connecting rod alignment jig, tool No. 335 and arbor No.
335-F1. This indicates bent or twisted connecting rods,
see Figs. 26 and 27. The method of testing is described
below.
Checking for Twisted Connecting Rods
1 Remove the piston as described on page 20. Insert
the piston pin in the small end of the connecting rod,
in which it must be a good fit, otherwise misleading
results will occur.
2 Bolt the connecting rod, without bearing liners, to the
arbor and with the gauge mounted on the piston pin
with the two horizontal pins towards the jig, move
the arbor along until the pins touch the machined
surface. Clamp the arbor in this position. Clearance
between the face of the jig and one of the pins,
indicates a twist in the connecting rod (see Fig. 26).
Fig. 28
Cylinder Liner
im~rovementcan be made. Failing this it is advisable to
inierchange the cylinder liners w!'th the cylinder block
locations until it is possible to get all four liners within the
0.002 in. limit. (See Fig. 30.)
1
I
I
1
\ STRAIGHT
EDGE-,
'
.
To Remove t h e c y l i n d e r Liners
1 Remove the cylinder head as described on page 7.
2 Remove th< sump and radius rod as described on
page 15.
3 Remove the connecting rods and piston assemblies
18.
as described on page
1 \\'ii!~dr.~nrhc liners, using t k esrra:ror (tool No.
T T r D 63;s-.\-see
Fig. 29). 3n.l r m w e the : d r
l i origin31 liners
iiom rhclr rcx;se% !n the h1o.k.
r i I J hi rsdttcd, number nnd ma:k ti1r.m far angul3r
p t x i ~ i ~ n Do
. not makc th:s mlrk on thc top facc o i
thc rlnngr.
1
~
To Replace Cylinder Liners
1:niurc t 1 i x the rc;csscs ior the S C ~ SII! the cylinder
h l o A 2nd tlic liner ilangc lomion are Acan and fice
<rum !J,M p~rriulr,o i Jirt a d carbdn.
2 Fit the liners in their location withour the rubber seals
and check that the liner protrusion above the top face
of the cylinder block is between 0.002in. and 0.004in.
and that they are parallel within 0.002 in. Carry out
this test with the straight edge in more than one
position. (See Fig. 30.)
3 Remove the liners after this check, lubricate the
rubbers seals with soft soap and fit them in their
recesses in the block.
4 Fit the cylinder liners by hand, rotating them slowly
in a short arc and making sure that the liner seal is not
disturbed from its location.
I
Fig. 30
Checking Liner Protrusion
5 Refit the connecting rod and piston nssemblies as
described on page 19.
6 Refit the sump and radius rod as described on
page 16.
7 Refit the cylinder head as described on page 7.
THE TIMING COVER AND OIL SEAL
Fig. 29
Removing a Cylinder Liner
22
'To Remove
1 Drain the cooling system through the two taps, one
on the radiator and one on the side of the cylinder
block.
2 Remove the engine bonnet by unscrewing the two
screws from the rear clip. If pre-filter is fitted above
the bonnet remove it first.
3 Disconnect the top and bottom water hoses by
unscrewing the clips on the radiator end of the
hoses.
4 Disconnect the. headlamp wiring by pulling out the
snap connectors at the right-hand side of the tractor,
near the radiator.
5 Remove the radiator tie bar clip from the water outlet
connection bolt.
6 Disconnect the radiator shutter operating rod at the
radiator end behind the grille.
7 When a horizontal exhaust system is fitted, remove the
bolt securing the silencer to the side channel.
8 Mount the front axle wedge tool No. TrZ/NMD 3004.
9 Remove the cotter pin from the radius rod rear pin
and pull out the pin.
10 Remove the two bolts from the fork ends of the radius
rod.
ENGINE-DIESEL
Fig. 31
Removing Crankshaft Pulley
Carefully tap thc radius rod sideways across the front
axle until clear of the sump and lift it away.
Discounect the steering drag link by unlocking the
drag link front ball plug and unscrewing the plug.
If the tractor dismantling stand T r / N M D 27 is not
available, suitably support the engine.
Remove the four bolts from each side channel where
the side channel is bolted to the gearbox.
Remove the three bolts from each side channel,
securing the front mounting plate to the side channel.
Support the radiator and front axle assembly by the
side channels and wheel the assembly forward until
clear of the tractor,
Slacken oft' and remove the generator and fan belt.
Remove the crankshaft ratchet and pulley using the
turning bar (tool No. T T r / D 6319) to undo the
crankshaft ratchet and puller (tool No. T T r / D
6312-A) to withdraw the pulley. (See Fig. 31.)
Remove the timing cover (fourteen bolts). Take
care nor ro damage the seal when the cover is
withdrawn.
T o Replace t h e T i m i n g Cover
1 Locate the cover and new gasket on the front face of
the mounting plate. On earlier tractors where the
front mounting plate is not dowelled, fit the crankshaft
pulley to align the timing cover oil seal with the
crankshaft.
2 Screw in the fourteen bolts to secure the cover. Make
sure that the coarse threaded bolts are screwed into
the block, and the fine threaded ones into the front
mounting plate and tighten evenly to the specified
torque.
3 Fit the crankshaft pulley and ratchet.
4 Replace the generator and fan belt, adjust to give a
belt free movement of 4 in. (12.6 mm.) midway
between water pump and generator pulleys, and
tighten up the generator mounting bolts.
5 Support the radiator and front axle assembly by the
side channels and wheel it towards the tractor,
positioning the front mounting plate in each side
channel, until the holes in the end of each
side channel are located opposite them gearbox
mounting positions. Refit the four bolts securing
each sidr &annel to the gearbox mountings aria
replace the six bolts retaining the front mounting
plate to the channels.
6 Release the weight of the engine from the lifting
equipment used.
7 Reconnect the stccring drag link.
8 Position the radius rod with the fork ends on the
front axle to the right-hand side of their location holes
and gently rap the radius rod across the front axle, at
the same time locating its rear end in the sump
bracket.
T o Renew t h e c r a n k s h a f t F r o n t Oil Seal i n T i m i n g
Cover
1 Carefully extract the old seal with a suitable lever.
2 Locate a new seal in the h n i cover with the lip of the
seal towards the inside of the cover.
3 T a p the new seal gently into position using the tool
No. T T r / D 6362-B and a suitable mallet. (See
Fig. 32.)
Fig. 32
Fitting Crankshaft Oil Seal in Timing Cover
9 Replace the two bolts in the fork ends of the radius
rod.
10 Refit the radius rod rear pin and secure it with the
cotter pin, then remove the front axle wedge (tool No.
Tr2/NMD 3004.)
11 If a horizontal exhaust system is fitted, replace the
bolts securing the silencer to the left-hand side
channel.
12 Reconnect the radiator shutter operating rod at the
radiator end.
13 Refit the radiator tie bar clip to the water outlet
connection bolt.
Reconnect
the headlamp wiring by pushing in the
14
snap connectors on the right-hand side of the tractor
near the radiator.
15 Replace the top and bottom radiator water hoses and
tighten up the clips.
16 Replace the engine bonnet and secure it by screwing
in the two screws in the rear clip. If a vertical
primary air cleaner is fitted, replace this now.
17 Refill the cooling system.
Fix. 34
Checking T i m i n g Gear Backlash
TIMING GEARS
T h e camshaft and auxiliary drive shaft are driven from
the crankshaft by helical gears. Should they at any time be
disturbed the timing gears are suitably marked to facilitate
reriming
and
are
all relative to too dead centre
~
~the
~ --- -mnrks
~
~
.
.
compression stroke, No. 1 cylinder. (See F&. 33.)
~
~
T o Check t h e T i m i n g G e a r Backlash
1 Remove the timing cover as described on page 22.
2 Check the backlash between the gears using a suitable
feeler gauge. This should be between 0.003 in. and
0.004 in. (See Figs. 33 and 34.)
3 Replace the timing cover as described on page 23.
T o Remove the T i m i n g Gears
1 Remove the timing cover as described on page 22.
2 Turn the crankshaft until the marked tccth on the
crankshaft gear
and camshaft outer gear are in line.
3 Remove the split pin from the auxiliary drive shaft
castellated nut and unscrew the nut.
4 Bend back the locking tabs of the three bolts securing
the camshaft gears to the camshaft, remove the bolts
and the camshaft outer gear.
5 Remove the auxiliary drive shaft gear and camshaft
inner gear.
6 Remove the crankshaft gear, using the pull& (tool
No. ATTr/NVMD 6306-A) with the thrust button
inserted in the threaded end of the crankshaft (see
Fig. 35).
Note - Once the gears have been removed do not rotate
the engine otherwise intcrferencc may occur between
the fuel lift pump eccentric on the camshaft and a
big end nut on No. 4 connecting rod.
T o Replace t h e Timing Gears
1 Refit the crankshaft gear, using tool No. T T r i D
6306-B. Take care that the marked sidc of rhc gear
Fig. 33
C a m s h a f t and Crankshaft Timing Gears
is to the front and that the keyway is located over the
crankshaft keys. On current engines a long sin&
kev is fitted.
2 Refit the camshaft inner gear making sure that the
camshaft dowel is in position.
ENGINE-DIESEL
Current type mounting plates and engine timin, covers
can be used ou earlier type engines, drilling the extra bolt
hole in the block, if necessary.
Current type blocks (with dowcls) can be used with earlier
type mounting plates and front covers by removing the
dowels from the blocks, although if a new cylinder block is
supplied, it is preferable to fit the lates~type mounting
plate and timing cover.
T o Remove
1 Remove the timing cover and timing gears as described
on pages 22 and 24.
2 Bend back the locking tabs and remove the retaining
screws. Remove the screws to release the generator
bracket and timing p~inter, and then lift off the
front mounting plate and gasket.
The oil :elief valve may now be removed if
necessary. Ses Engine Lubrication section.
Fig. 35
Removing Crankshaft Gear
T o Replace
1 If the oil reliei valve has been removed, refit it to the
mounting plate.
3 Replace the auxiliary drive shaft gear making sure that
its timing mark is in line with that on the camshaft
inner gear. (See Fig. 33.)
Instal the mounting plate and gasket, gcnerator
bracket and timing pointer ;md bend up the locking
tabs of the retaining bolts.
4 Fit the camshaft outer gear with its timing mark in
line with the mark on the crankshaft gear. Fit the
lock plate and replace the three bolts. Bend up the
corners of the lock plate to secure the bolts. Fit the
auxiliary drive shaft castellated nut and lock by means
of a new split pin.
2 Instal the timing gears and timing cover as described
on page 24.
5 Replace the timing cover, etc., as described on page 23.
FRONT MOUNTING PLATE
Current production tractors are now fitted with a modified
engine front mounting plate incorporating two stepped dowels
and one extra bolt as shown in Fig. 36.
In service the extra bolt can be easily installed in
engines not so equipped, by drilling and tapping a
in.
18NC2 hole in the block. T h e hole must be in. deep and
the thread 3 in. deep. A suitable template to locate the
position of the hole can be provided by using a current type
engine front mounting plate gasket.
It is not considered practicable in service to modify the
block and mounting plate to accommodate the two stepped
dowels on tractors nor so equipped.
Where the original mounting plate is not drilled to
accommodate the bolt, it can be reworked using the latest
type mounting plate gasket as a template.
kis. 30
Modified Front Atounting Plate
ENGINE- DIESEL
T H E AUXILIARY DRIVE SHAFT
The auxiliaiy drive shaft is driven from the camshaft by
helical gears and is used in the Diesel engine to drive the
Fuel Injection Pump and the Oil Pump.
T o Renew the Auxiliary Drive Shaft Oil Seal without
Removing t h e S h a f t
1 Remove the fuel injection pump as described in the
Fuel System Section of this Manual.
2 Remove the fuel injection
pump coupling by
removing the clamp bolt and tapping the coupling
rearwards off its shaft.
3 Remove the coupling key from the auxiliary drive
shaft.
4 Remove the oil seal by carefully splitting the meral
casing with a suitable small chisel and gripping with
a pair of pliers.
5 Clean out the recess for the seal, check the shaft and
key for burrs which must be removed, and screw the
oil seal guide (tool No. Tr2/DD 66610-B) in to the end
of the shaft.
Fig. 38
Replacing Auxiliary Drive Shaft
6 Carefully fit the seal over the guide, on to the shaft
(see Fig. 37), and gently drive it into place using the
replacer (part of the above tool) and a suitable mallet.
7 Refit the auxiliary drive shaft key.
8 Refit the coupling and the fuel injection pump as
described in the Fuel System Sectlon.
To Remove t h e Auxiliary Drive Shaft
1 Drain the cooling system and remove a battery lead.
2 Remove the radiator and front axle assembly as
described in the appropriate sections.
3 Drain the engine oil and remove the sump, gasket and
oil pump.
4 Remove the engine timing cover and gasket as
described on page 22.
5 Remove the camshaft and auxiliary drive gears as
described in the section on this subject. It is not
necessary to remove the crankshaft gear.
6 Remove the front mounting plate and gasket by
unscrewing the retaining bolts, see page 25.
7 Remove the fuel injection pump as described in the
Fuel System Section.
8 Remove the fuel injection pump coupling by removing
the clamp bolt, extracting the key and tapping it
rearwards.
Tap the auxiliary drive shaft forward out of its block
location, complete with hearings.
10 Extract the bearings using the puller (tool No.
T T r / D 66608-AB).
11 Remove the auxiliary drive shaft oil seal by tapping it
rearwards out of the block and then remove the
circlip from its groove.
9
Fig. 37
Replacing Auxiliary Drive Shaft Oil Seal
To Replace t h e Auxiliary Drive S h a f t a n d O
i
l Seal
1 Locate the circlip retainer for the auxiliary drive shaft
oil seal in its groove in the cylinder block.
2 Refit the bearings to the auxiliary drive shaft, uting
tool No. T T r I D 66608-AB.
3 Enter the shaft from the front of the block and tap it
rearwards until the front bearing 1s flush with the
front face of the block. (See Rg. 38.)
4 Refit the front mounting plate and gasket. (See page
25.)
5 Fit the camshaft inner gear, auxiliary drive shaft gear
and camshaft outer gear, making sure that the timing
marks are in h e .
6 Refit the timing cover and gasket as described on
page 23.
7 Refit the crankshaft pulley and ratchet.
8 Screw the guide for the auxiliary drive shaft oil seal
(tool No. Tr2/DD 66610-B) into the end of the drive
shaft.
8
'
9
Pull the camshaft forward slightly and lift out the two
halves of the thrust plate.
Carefully withdraw the camshaft. Rotating it slowly
will assist this operation.
10 If desired the tappets may now be extracted from
underneath after the sump has been drained and
removed.
T o Replace
1 Lubricate the tappets and refit them in their locations.
Use suitable clips to hold the tappets up while the
camshaft is replaced.
9 Fit a new oil seal and tap into position using the
replacer (tool No. Tr2/DD 66610-B).
10 Remove the guide from the shaft and refit the fuel
injection pump coupling key and the coupling.
2 Check the camshaft endfloat, using a feeler gauge, by
fitting the thrust plate into its groove in the camshaft
before the camshaft is fitted to the engine. The
clearance should be between the iimits specified at
the end of this section.
11 Replace the fuel injection pump as described in the
Fuel System section.
3 Lubricate the camshaft journals and slide the camshaft
into its bearings, being careful not to damage the
edges of the cams or bearings.
12 Replace the oil pump and suctionpipe.
(See page 17.)
13 Refit the engine sump and gaskets. (See page 16.)
0
7 Remove the tappet side cover and hold up the tappets
in their locations, using suitable clips.
14 Refit the radiator and front axle assembly as described
in the appropriate sections.
15 Reconnect the battery lead and fdl the cooling system.
16 Retill the engine sump with the approved grade of oil
to the correct level.
4 Before the camshaft is pushed fully home, fit the cam-
shaft thrust plate in its groove and as the camshaft is
pushed home, ensure that the dowel in the upper half
of the thrust plate enters the hole in the block.
(See Fig. 39.)
5 Fit a new fi;ont mountiug plate gasket and the
mounting plate.
6 Replace the timing gears and the timing cover as
described on page 24.
CAMSHAFT AND T A P P E T S
Camshaft end-float is controlled by a split type thrust
plate located 111a groove machined in the hub of thecamshaft
and a recess in the front face of the block. The top halfof
this plate is dowelled 10 prevent rotation and held in position
by the front mounting plate.
The cxnsli3ii r m s in cast irwi btxings machined dircctl!
In the block nn.1 i d with 011from the a.l]acent m m bedrulgs.
T o Remove
1 Drain the cooling system through the two taps
provided.
2 Disconnect the fuel pipes and remove the fuel lift
pump as described in the Fuel System section.
3 Remove the rocker cover, rocker shaft and push rods
as described on page 5.
4 Remove the front axle and radiator assembly and
timing cover as descr~bedin the appropriate sections.
5 Remove the camshaft outer gear, auxiliary drive shaft
gear, and camshaft inner gear as described on page 24.
6 Bend back the lock plates of the front mounting plate
retaining bolts and unscrew the bolts. Lift off the
front mounting plate complete with the oil pressure
relief valve and remove the mounting plate gasket.
Fig. 39
Camshaft Thrust Washers
7 Replace the push rods, rocker shaft and rocker cover
as described on page 6. Instal the tappet side cover
and gasket.
8 Refit the fuel lift pump and connect up the fuel pipes.
(See Fuel System section.)
9
Refit the sump, if removed, and replace the radiator
and front axle assembly as described in the appropriate
sections.
10 Refill the cooling system wit!? clean soft water.
11 Refill the engine sump with the correct gradc of oil
if the original was drained.
I\IAIN BEARING LINERS
The main bearings are detachable steel backed, lead bronze,
~ndiumplated liners and these may be easily rep!aced without
the necessity for rer.oving the engine.
They are held in position by tongues which register with
suitable locations'in the cylinder block and cap, to prevent
'iem from turning or moving out of position.
I n service, liners are supplied 0.010 in., 0.020 in., 0.030 in.
and 0.040 in. undersize in the bore.
Should it be necessary to renew crankshaft main hearings
following failure due to oil shortage, it is imperative that all
oilways and the oil pump are thoroughly clcaned, othcrwisc
mere replacement of liners may lead to repeated failure.
In this event the engine must be removed.
Fig. 41
Chccking Crankshaft End-float
Crankshaft End-Float
lower halves of these thrust washers have suitable locating
lugs to prevent them from turning out of position. .Fit the
crankshaft thrust washers in the recesses at each side of the
centre main bearing :vith their oil grooves outwards. (See
Fig. 40.)
The crankshaft end-float is controlled by detachable
thrust washers at each side of the centre main bearing. The
The thrust washers are available in service in 0.0025 in.,
0.005 inl., 0.0075 in. and 0.010 in. overske in thich~esess.
T o check the crankshaft end-float, carefully p i ~ hthe
crankshaft endwise as far as it will go, and test with a feeler
gauge the gap between the machined shoulder on the
crankshaft web and the crankshaft thrust washers. (See
Fig. 41.)
End-float should be within the specified linlits. If the
end-float is too great the centre main bearing cap should be
removed and the appropriate oversize thrust washers fitted.
T o Renew Main Bearing Liners
1 Remove the sump and oil pump suction pipe as
described on page 17. Even if it is necessary to renew
all the main bearing liners, remove only one hearing
cap at a time.
2 Remove the cap from the bearing affected or, if ali
bearing liners are to he changed, commence at No. 1
main bearing, taking care not to disturb the front
mounting plate gasket when removing the cap.
Turn the crankshaft until the oil hole in the exposed
journal is near the end of the liner opposite the
tongued side.
Fig. 40
Crenkshaft Thrust Washers
28
3 Insert the special liner pin, tool No. T T r / D 6331-AB,
in the oil hole in the crankshaft journal, so that
the head of the pin lies flat against the journal.
EAVGI~\~E-U IESEL
lead to bearing failure with consequential damage to the
engine.
It is for this reason that great care must be taken when the
engine is dismantled to keep its own bearing caps separate
from any others and refitted in exactly the same posit~ons
from which removed.
For identification purposes there is a single number or letter
stamped on No. 2 cap and block location and-a double lettrr
or number on No. 4 cap and block location. These letters or
numbers are on the opposite side to the engine camshaft.
No. 1 main bearing cap must be fitted with themachincd
face to the front, and before the bolts are tightened this face
must be lined up with the aid of a straight edge with the
front face of the block. Failure to do this may give rise
to oil leakage across the front mounting plate gasket. Xos.
2, 3,4 and 5 caps are marked
the ~vord" Rear " on the
casting and should be replaced ivith this word towards the
rear of the engine.
.MAIN BEARING BOLTS
Fig. 42
Removing Main Bearing Liner
4 Carefully rum the crankshaft against the normal
direction of rotation until the upper half of the liner is
brought to such a position that it may be removed.
(See Fig. 42.)
5 To instal the new upper half liner, lightly oil the
crankshaft journal and position the liner on the journal
so that its tongue is on the opposite side to the
machined recess it is intended to fit in the block.
T h e current type main bearing bolts used in production
can be identified by the figures " 100 " marked on the head,
and should be tightened to the torque shown in the
specification.
Bolts marked " BEES," " NEWALL HIGH TENSILE "
or " RIBE " should only be used as individual replacements
tu a complete set of similar bolts. T h e tightening torque
figures for these are also shown in the specification.
Should it become necessary to use the current type bolts
as individual replacements when stocks of the earlier bolts
are exhausted, they should be tightened to the torque being
used on the original bolts.
6 Hold the liner tightly against the journal and by
turning the crankshaft in the normal direction of
rotation, enter the liner into its location as far as it
will go. If it is found that the liner is not fully home
insert IIle special pin T T r / D 6331-AB in the oil hole
in the crankshaft journal and continue to rotate the
crankshaft until the,liner is correctly positioned witli
both ends flush with the cylinder block. Remove the
liner pin.
7 Clean both the cap and the new lower half liner,
insert the liner in the cap so that the tongue enters the
machined recess provided. Apply a film of oil to the
liner bearing surfacc and replace the cap and thc lincr
with the word" Rear " towards the rear of the engine.
Always use new spring washers on the main bearing
cap bolts. For complete details of the marking of
main bearing caps refer to the following section.
MAIN BEARING CAPS
In manufacture, the main bearing liner bores in the cylinder
block and caps are machined in-line, witli the caps fitted in
their correct locations. If the caps are interchanged or
replaced incorrectly, they will not then match and possibly
Fig. 43
Replacing Main Bearing Liner
ENGINE- DIESEL
T H E FLYWHEEL AND RING GEAR
T o remove the flywheel it will be necessary to separate
the engine from :he gearbox.
T o Remove
1 Separate the engine from the gearbox as described in
the section dealing with this subject on page 115.
2 ~ n s h e wivenly the six bolts and spring washers
securing the clutch pressure place assembly to the
flywheel and detach the clutch assembly and disc.
3
The flywheel is secured by six bolts with three locking
plates. Bend back the locking tabs and unscrew the
flywheel bolts.
4 Carefully ease the flywheel off the crankshaft spigot
and the two locating dowels.
Nore
- For details
of the clutch pilot bearing, refer to the
clutch section.
Fig. 45
Testing Flywheel Run-out
T o Renew t h e Flywheel Ring Gear
1 Unscrew the six countersunk headed screws retaining
the ring gear to the flywheel and remove them and
their lockwashers.
2 Tap off the ring gear. l'here is no necesxicy
apply heat ro remove or refir the gear.
3
Note
- T h e diesel flywheel ring gear is nor interchangeable
with that of either the vaporising oil or petrol engines.
I t is identified by the fact that the chamfer on the gear
teeth is on the same end as the countersinking for the
retaining screws. (See Fig. 44.)
to
Fit a ilew ring gear with the countersunk holes to the
front of the flywheel and retain in position by using
six new screws and lockwashers.
T o Replace t h e Flywheel
1 Carefully clean the crankshaft flange and the mating
flange on the flywheel.
2
Ensure that the flywheel dowels are installed in the
crankshaft rear flange.
3 Mount the flywheel on the flange ensuring that the
dowel holes are lined u p with the crankshaft dowels.
Fit the six bolts and the three locking plates and
tighten up the bolts to the specified torque.
Fig. 44
Flywheel and Ring Gear
-
4 I t is essential that the flywheel runs true, as &rt, etc.,
between the mating flange faces could cause it to run
out of balance, with consequent difficulties. The
clutch thrust face and flywheel rim should he tested
with a dial indicator, when the " run-out " (total
indicator reading) should not exceed 0.005 in. (see
Fig. 45).
If the run- out exceeds this figure, remove the
flywheel and check the mating flanges for burrs, etc.
Refit to the crankshaft and recheck the "run-out "
as above.
Turn up the tabs of the locking plates against the
flat on the bolts.
5 Replace the clutch assembly and engine as described
in their appropriate sections.
a
ENGINE- DIESEL
MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS
Most operations of dismanthng and repair mn be carried
out without removing the engine from the tractor, but should
removal be necessary the following procedure should be
adopted :7
To Remove t h e Engine
m
14 Unscrew the clips at either end of che air intake pipe
between the air cleaner and the inlet manifold and
remove the pipe and the inlet and exhaust manifold.
15 Remove the rod operating the radiator shutter and
detach the tool box (two bolts).
16 Pull out the snap connectors of the headlamp wiring
on the right-hand side of the tractor, near the
radiator, ana release the wiring.
1 Drain the cooling system through the taps on the
radiator and the cylinder block.
17 Disconnect the steering drag link by removing the
split pin and unscrewing the drag link front ball plug.
2 Remove the sump drain plug and drain off the engine
oil. Remove the engine oil indicator.
3 Turn the fuel tap to the " off" position and remove
the fuel lift pump and pipes.
18 Support the engine and transmission using the tractor
dismantling stand (tool No. T r / N M D 27). Place the
two rail sections under the tractor and position the
engine and gearbox trolleys.
4 Remove the two screws on the rear clip of the engine
hood and lift offthe bonnet (if a vertical extension pipe
and primary air cleaner are fitted, remove these first).
19 Place the front axle wedge (tool No. Tr2JNMD 3004)
in position to prevent movement between the engine
and front axle assemblies.
5 Disconnect the battery leads and remove the battery.
20 Lock the track rod by means of the front axle clamp
(tool No. T r / N D 3000).
6 Disconnect the starter motor cables and generator
leads. (Coil up the wiring so that it does not become
damaged.) Remove the starter motor, generator
asse&bly, fan belt and fan blades.
7 Disconnect the temperature gauge connection in the
cylinder head and release the capillary tubing from its
clips.
8 Disconnect the throttle control rod at each end,
slide the rod clear of the engine and remove the
vertical operating rod.
9 Unscrew the pinch screw on the stop lever and
disconnect the stop control wire.
10 Remove the banjo bolt from the leak-off pipe union
at the offside rear or the cylinder head.
11 Remove the injection pump and blank off all connections, taking necessary precautions to prevent
ingress of dirt. (See Fuel System section.) Withdraw the throttle relay spindle running across the
block.
21 Remove the four bolts on each side retaining the side
channels to the gearbox and the bolts retaining the
engine to the gearbox. Do not forget the two bolts
behind the side channels.
22 Withdraw the engine, radiator and front axle assembly.
Move the assembly forward until the engine is clear
of the gearbox.
23 Fit the two enginelifting plates (tool No. T T r / D 6004),
one on the fuel filter boss at the offside rear of the
cylinder head and the other under the two front nearside cylinder head bolts. Take the weight of the
engine on a hoist or gantry.
24 Disconnect the radiator hoses and free the radiator
tie bar from the engine.
25 Remove the front axle radius rod rear pin after
removing the split pin.
26 Remove the four bolts from the front of the side
channel on the left-hand side and the radiator shell
bolt.
12 Remove the fuel oil filter and pipes. Use plugs
(tool No. T r / D D 993122) to blank the filter
connections.
27 Remove the three bolts from the engine front
mounting to each side channel, and remove the side
channel from the left-hand side.
13 On the horizontal exhaust remove the two bolts and
one nut from the manifold adaptor and the two bolts,
one securing the silencer bracket to the side channel
and the other securing the outlet pipe bracket to the
rear axle housing. With a vertical exhaust, remove the
two bolts and nuts from the vertical exhaust flange.
28 Remove the engine by lifting it slightly and pushing
it carefully towards the left-hand side so that the
radius rod slides sideways out of its sump location
and the front mounting plate clears the right-hand
side channel. Lift the engine a little higher, then
wheel away the front axle and radiator assembly.
ENGINE-DIESEL
SEQUENCE FOR DISMANTLING THE ENGINE
Note
- The following sequence is given as a guide and,
where necessary, reference can be made to the
appropriate sections for detailed instructions covering
the dismantling and reassembling of any particular
sub-assembly.
1
MOU& the engine on the engine stand (tool No. 200)
in the normal manner, using the special bracket
TTr/D 6005, which is available for this purpose.
17 Remove the front mounting plate and gasket, and
detach the oil relief valve.
18 Remove the auxiliary drive shaft and oil seal.
19 Remove the main bearing bolts, caps, liners and
crankshaft thrust washers. Carefully lift out the
crankshaft and extract the upper halves of the thrust
washers and main bearing liners. Remove the rear
main bearing oil seal retainer and extract the seal.
3 Remove the generator mounting brackets
20 Ease the camshaft out sufficiently to permit removal of
the thrust washers and then carefully remove the
camshaft, taking care not to damage the cams and
bores. Lift out the tappets.
4 Unscrew the crankshaft ratchet using the tool TTr/D
6319 and withdraw the crankshaft pulley using the
remover tool TTr/D 6312-A.
21 Using the tool TTr/D 6055-A withdraw the cylinder
liners and remove the seals from their recesses in the
block.
2 Remove the water pump and cylinder block drain tap.
5 Remove the two bolts retaining the rocker cover and
lift off the cover and gasket.
6 Remove the rocker shaft support bolts, disconnect
the decompressor control, and detach the rocker shaft
assembly. Li out the push rods.
7 Disconnect the fuel leak-off pipe and remove the
injectors, taking the recommended precautions
regarding cleanliness.
22 Remove the plug from each end of the main oil
gallery, and unscrew the block connection for the oil
gaugepressure plpe. Remove any loose scale or deposit
from the water jacket and thoroughly clean the block
oil passages and tapped holes fd; the main bearing
cap bolts on the oil gallery side before carrying out any
further work.
- It is mast
8 Unscrew the cylinder head bolts and lift off the
important that the cylinder block is
carefully and thoroughly cleaned in all respects and
this operation not neglected in any way.
Remove the tappet chamber cover screws and detach
the cover and gasket.
SEQUENCE FOR REASSEMBLING THE ENGINE
Note
cylinder head and gasket. To dismantle the cylinder
head assembly refer to page 7.
9
10 Invert the engine on the stand and remove the extunal
oil filter, sump cover plate, gasket and oil screen.
Unscrew the bolts retaining the sump to the cylinder
block and lift off the sump and gaskets.
11 Remove the suction pipe and oil pump.
12 Remove the connecting rods and pistons as described
in the appropriate section.
13 Remove the clutch assembly taking care to slacken the
pressure plate to flywheel bolts evenly.
14 Unscrew the bolts securing the flywheel to the crankshaft flange and ease off the flywheel, after removing
the clutch pilot bearing (if necessary) using the tool
T T r / D 7600-A. Remove the six screws retaining
the ring gear to the flywheel and tap off the ring gear.
There is no necessity to apply heat.
Note
- The flywheel locates on the crankshaft spigot and
two dowels.
a
a
Before reassembling the engine, all parts will require
checking dimensionally against the general specification and
new parts selected where necessary. Lubricate all bearing
surfaces and moving parts before assembly and soak the
new rear oil seal in oil for one hour before fitting.
1 Refit the blankmg plugs at each end of the main oil
gallery. Mount the rear oil seal retainer and seal and
install the oil pressure gauge union in the block.
Note
- Oversize oil gallery blanking plugs are available,
and when fitting the plugs a sealing compound should
be used sparingly and the front plug fitted just below
flush.
2 Instal the new water seals for the liners in the recesses
in the cylinder block and fit the cylinder liners after
checking for ~rotrusionas described in the a ~ ~ r o p r i a t e
section.
-
-
-
15 Remove the timiig cover, gasket and gears.
3 Fit the tappets and camshaft after checking the
end-float.
16 Withdraw the crankshaft gear using the tool ATTr/
NVMD 6036-A, and extract both Woodruff keys from
the front of the crankshaft. On current engines a
long single key is fitted.
4 Fit the top halves of the main bearing liners and thrust
washers, install the crankshaft and fit the main bearmg
caps, bottom half liners and thrust washers. Check
the crankshaft end-float.
a
ENGINE- DIESEL
5 Install the auxiliary drive shaft and fit the oil seal,
using the tool Tr2/DD 66610-B.
6 Refit the mounting plate and gasket. Install the oil
relief valve. Fit the Woodruff keys in the crankshaft
spigot and reassemble the timing gears. On current
engines a long single key is fitted. Refit the timing
cover and gasket, crankshaft pulley and ratchet and
the generator mounting brackets.
Refit the ring gear to the flywheel, mount the flywheel
on the crankshaft spigot and install the clutch pilot
bearing using the tool Tr2/D 7600-E.
Locate
the piston and c o ~ e c t i n grod assemblies in
8
the appropriate bores with the word " Front"
stamped on each piston crown pointing to the front of
the engine. Compress the piston rings, using the
squeezer T T r / D D K 6153 and push the pistons down
the cylinder bores and reassemble the big ends to the
crankshaft. Always use new self-locking nuts. Check
the end-float of each connecting rod.
9 Mount the oil pump in the base of the block and fit the
suction pipe. Install the sump and gaskets, tightening
the bolts evenly. Replace theail pump screen, cover
plate and gasket.
7
10 Turn the engine over on the mounting stand and fit
the rockecfeed oil seal. Replace the cylinder head and
gasket, using the locating studs T T r / M D 6050 and
tighten the cylinder head bolts in correct sequence.
Do not forget to refit the lifting plntes T T r / D 6004.
11 Install the push rods and rocker shaft assembly and
reconnect the decompressor control. Reset the valve
clearances.
12 Refit the injectors and leak-off pipe.
13 Refit the tappet chamber cover and gasket.
14 Install the 'rocker cover and gasket.
15 Mount the water pump and gasket in position. Refit
the drain tap.
16 Refit the external oil filter.
17 Mount the clutch and pressure plate assembly into
position, using the clutch plate locator T r / D 7563.
18 Remove the engine from the mounting stand.
To Replace the Engine
1 Support the radiator and front axle assembly by using
a suitable block or jack under the right-hand side
channel and place blocks at either sidc of the wheels.
2 Lift the engine, using an overhead sling, and position
it so that the radius rod location is to the left hand
and just above the level of the radius rod eye.
3 Push the engine sideways towards the right-hand side
and at the same time gently lower it, guiding the righthand side of the front mounting plate into its side
channrl and rhe radius rod eye in its correct location.
4 Fit the radius rod pin and split pin.
5 Secure the front mounting foot to the right-hand side
channel using the three bolts.
6 Fit the left-hand side channel, bolting it to the front
mounting foot wing three bolts and replace the
radiator shell bolt. Install the engine trolley part of
the dismantling stand and remove the sling.
7 Wheel the frontaxle and engine assembly towards the
transmission and engage the drive shaft in the clutch
disc splines and pilot bearing.
8 Replace the bolts retaining the engine to the gearbox
and the four bolts holding each side channel to the
gearbox.
9 Refit the generator, fan belt and blades.
10 Refit the two radiator hoses and the radiator tie-bar to
the engine.
11 Remove the engine lifting plates and tighten the
cylinder head bolts to the specified torque.
12 Recmnect the steering drag link.
13 Fit the inlet and s h a u s t manifold and replace the air
intake pipe between the air cleaner and the inlet
manifold.
14 Fit the starter motor and reconnect the cables and
generator leads.
15 Reconnect the headlamp wiring by joining the snap
connectors and refit the three wiring clips.
16 Replace the rod operating the radiator shutter and
install the tool box.
17 Replace the fuel filter and its pipes.
18 Secure the leak-off pipe to the offside rear of the
cylinder head by means of the banjo bolt.
19 Refit the throttle relay spindle running across the
block.
Install the injection pump and all connections.
(See Fuel System section.)
20 Reconnect the stop control wire and tighten up the
pinch screw.
21 Refit the throttle control r o d and connect the
vertical operating rod.
22 Replace the temperature gauge and refit the clips
holding the capillary tubing.
23 Install the fuel lift pump and reconnect the pipes.
24 Replace the battery and refit the battery leads.
25 Replace the engine bonnet and secure by screwing in
the two screws on the rear clip. (If a vertical primary
air cleaner is fitted, replace this at this stage.)
26 Refit the exhaust pipe adaptor. If a horizontal
exhaust system is fitted, replace the two bolts securing
the silencer bracket to the side channel and the outlet
clamp to the axle housing.
27 Turn the fuel tap to the " ON " position and
" bleed " all the air from the fuel system. (See Fuel
System section.)
28 Refill the engine with clean oil of an approved grade
and replace the oil indicator.
ENGINE- DIESEL
THE CRANKSHAFT
The cast-steel crankshaft is statically and dynamically
balanced. I t should be ring tested for cracks before
replacing by suspending the crankshaft suitably by one end
and lightly tapping with a hand hammer.
The cranksha!t
should always be thoroughly checked
before replacement to ensure that all oil passages are clear
and perfectly dean in all respects.
Reference to the specification will indicate the dimensions
of parts available for service.
To Remove
Remove the engine from the tractor as described on
page 31.
Remove the clutch assembly.
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the timing cover and gasket.
Remove the timing gears as described on page 24.
Remove the front mounting plate and gasket.
Remove the sump andgaskets.
Remove the oil pump.
Unscrew the connecting rod big end cap nuts, detach
the caps and push the pistons up the cylinder bores.
Take care not to dislodge the big end bearing liners
m the rods and caps.
Remove the flywheel (see page 30).
Unscrew the main bearing cap bolts and detach the
caps. When removing the centre main bearing cap
take care not to lose the crankshaft thrust washers from
either side of the cap.
Lift the crankshaft carefully out of the cylinder block.
Extract the upper halves of the main bearing liners
and thrust washers from the cylinder block, and the
halves of the aankshaft rear oil seals from the sump
and the oil seal retainer.
Thoroughly clean all the oil passages in the block after
removing the plugs at each end of the main oil gallery
and the oil gauge adaptor in the block. The crankshaft must also be cleaned. This operation is most
important and musr be carried out in detail.
2 Fit the new crankshaft rear oil seal, upper half,
in the oil seal retainer and the lower half in the rear
of the sump. This oil seal should be previously
soaked in engine oil for at least one hour.
4
3 Locate the upper halves of the crankshaft end-float
thrust washers on either side of the centre main
bearing with the oil grooves outwards. The upper
halves of these washers do not have locating tabs.
4 Check that the ends of the thrust washers are level
with the cylinder block face, otherwise they may be
distorted when fitting the bearing cap. A light
coating of oil will assist in holding the washers in
place until the crankshaft is fitted.
Insert new keys at the front end of the crankshaft,
lubricate the bearing liners and lay the crankshaft
in the bearings.
5 Check that the line& are seating correctly in the caps
with the tongues engaging in the machined recesses
and that the end-float thrust washers are located on
either side of the centre main bearing.
The washers must be fitted with the oil grooves
outwards and the locating tabs in the recesses of the
".P.
6 Refit the main bearing caps with the cast word
" Rear " to the rear of the engine.
7 Push the crankshaft fully endwise and check the
end-float as shown in Fig. 41, which should be within
the limits specified. If this limit is exceeded, fit
thicker thrust washers.
8 Refit the connecting rods to the crankpins, ensuring
that the liners are correctly positioned with the tongues
engaging in the machined recesses. Connecting rod
caps must be fined with the stamped numbers
together and on the same side as the camshaft.
9 Use new self-lockmg nuts on the big end bearing bolts
and tighten to the specified torque. Ensure that the
heads of the bolts are correctly located.
10 Replace the oil pump and suction pipe.
11 Refit front mounting plate and gasket.
12 Replace the timing gears as desciibed on page 24.
13 Replace the timing cover, gasket, and crankshaft
pulley.
14 Refit the sump and gaskets, see page 16.
T o Replace
1 Locate the upper halves of the main hearing liners in
their block locations. Ensure that all oilways and
passages are clear, and lightly lubricate the liners.
34
15 Replace the flywheel and clutch assembly, checking
the
"
run-out
"
as described on page 30.
16 Refit the engine to the tractor as described on page 33.
a
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