WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

• Assembles in two easy hours

• Only requires one tool to build — and it’s included!

• No glue is required to assemble (no smell, no mess)

• Modular construction allows for easily replaced parts if crash damaged

• Can be disassembled in approximately 15 minutes for easy storage/transportation

• Pre-covered and trimmed in genuine UltraCote

™

• All balsa plywood craftsmanship constructed

2

Table of Contents

Introduction

Additional Parts Needed

Radio System Set-Up

Easy 2 Parts Layout

Airplane Orientation

Stage 1 — Assembling the Wing

Stage 2 — Installing the Radio

Stage 3 — Installing the Linkages

Stage 4 — Installing the Tail

Stage 5 — Installing the Landing Gear

Stage 6 — Installing the Engine

Installing the Propeller

Installing the Antenna

Balancing the Easy 2

Pre-Flight Check

Flight Instructions

Pre-Flight at the Field

AMA Safety Code

Glossary

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19

27

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13

4

5

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3

3

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of Hangar 9’s Easy 2 ™ , the first in Hangar 9’s VRTF ™ series of airplanes.

VRTF, Virtually Ready-to-Fly, is a concept that Hangar 9 pioneered. Unlike standard ARF (Almost Ready-to-Fly) airplanes that typically take up to 20 hours to build, the Easy 2 can be assembled in just two easy hours.

Furthermore, the Easy 2 doesn’t require glue, and only one tool is needed for the complete assembly process—and that tool, a Phillips screwdriver, is even included.

For first-time fliers, the Easy 2 is the perfect trainer with positive self-righting flight characteristics and exceptional slow flight performance. More experienced flyers will find the Easy 2 to be a quick way to get in the air fast with a high-quality, all-wood UltraCote ™ be proud to show off.

covered airplane that even the most discriminating pilot would

The Easy 2 includes both a written instruction manual and a Real-Time ™ instruction video. If feasible, we highly recommend using the video instructions and keeping the written instructions handy for reference or for clarifying any questions you may have regarding any of the assembly steps.

While the Easy 2 can easily be built in two hours using the video instructions, there’s certainly no rush. If you’d prefer to spend a couple of evenings assembling a stage, or perhaps doing two stages per night, please feel free to do so. On the average for most, the actual assembly time using the video instructions takes just under two hours, while assembling using only the written instructions may take slightly longer.

There is a glossary located at the back of this manual should you encounter any unfamiliar terms.

Additional Parts Needed to Assemble the Easy 2:

• .40 – .46 2-cycle engine with muffler

• 4-channel or greater radio system with four standard servos (JR F400 with four 507 servos recommended)

• Aileron extension (Part JRPA112)

Helpful Additional Items (Optional):

• Masking tape

• Pen

Additional Items Needed to Get the Easy 2 in the Air:

• Propeller (10 x 6 if using a .40 size engine)

• Hangar 9 field kit, which includes: glow plugs, fuel pump, 4-way wrench, glow plug igniter with charger, chicken stick and tote box (Part HANSTART)

• Fuel (Omega or Cool Power 10% – 15% nitro content recommended)

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4

Radio System Set-Up

It’s a good idea to begin charging the radio system first, so that later, in Stage 3, you’re able to center the servos. Locate your charger and plug your battery pack and transmitter into your charger. Plug the charger into an outlet to begin charging.

Easy 2 Parts Layout

Fuselage (HAN1801)

Antenna Tube

Rubber Bands Wing Joiner Rods (HAN1806)

Tail Assembly

(HAN1803)

Spinner

Shock Loc™

Radio Tray

(HAN1807)

Wing

Dowels

Wing Kit

(HAN1802)

Main Gear

(HAN1804)

Phillips

Screwdriver

Nose Wheel

Control Horn Pushrods

Nose Wheel

Assembly

Aileron

Linkages

Airplane Orientation

The left and right of the airplane refers to the left and right side as if you were stationed in the cockpit.

Stage 1 — Assembling the Wing

Parts Needed

• Wing halves (left and right)

• Steel wing rods (2)

• One servo with mounting hardware (4 rubber grommets,

4 eyelets and 4 long servo screws — included with the radio system)

• Aileron linkages with clevis attached (2) — these are the shortest two linkages in the kit

• Small self-tapping screws (2)

• Small rubber bands (3)

• Aileron connectors (2) Note: On some Easy 2 kits, these may already to attached to the aileron torque rods.

Right Wing

Half

Mounting

Hardware

Servo

Small

Rubberbands

Small

Self-Tapping

Screws

Aileron

Connectors

Steel Wing

Rods

Left Wing

Half

Aileron

Linkages

Note: After completion of the instructional video and manual, the white clevises were substituted with the high-quality Dubro #669 Black Clevises.

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6

Stage 1 — Assembling the Wing

Step 1. From your radio system box, remove one servo and the servo mounting hardware — four rubber grommets, four brass eyelets and four servo screws. Prepare the servo by installing the four rubber grommets and eyelets in one servo as shown in the photo. The grommets insert onto the servo tabs and then the eyelets are inserted from the bottom through the grommets.

The grommet installation is fairly simple. However, if you need any additional help for this installation, please refer to your radio system instruction manual.

CONTINUED

Step 2. Note there is a rectangular shaped cut-out on the bottom of the right wing panel (the panel with the Easy 2 decal).

Install the servo prepared in Step One into the cut-out in the wing, as shown, with the servo arm nearest the front (leading edge) of the wing.

Note: The wire (servo lead) should exit on the side as shown.

To fasten the servo in place, use the four self-tapping servo screws included with your radio and the screwdriver included in the Easy 2 kit. Tighten just until they compress the rubber grommets slightly.

Note: Do not “smash” down the rubber grommets; tighten just until the grommets compress slightly.

Step 3. Insert the two steel wing rods into the right wing half as shown in the photo. Push them in as far as they will go.

Stage 1 — Assembling the Wing

Slide the left and right wing halves together, making sure the alignment pin near the trailing edge correctly engages in the hole.

CONTINUED

Now loop the three small rubber bands several times around the screws to hold the wing halves together. Note: The package contains more rubber bands; however only three are used here.

Note: The pattern of the looping of these rubber bands

makes no difference. Some use a figure 8 shape, others just use an oval shape. What is important is that the rubber bands are securely attached to hold the wing halves together.

Screw location

Step 4. Two screws will be installed on the bottom of the wing, one in each wing panel, with the heads slightly raised. Three rubber bands will then be looped around the screws to hold the wing halves together.

To install the screws, make sure they thread into the narrow hardwood strip inside the wing by measuring with the 7 9 /

16

" template provided at right on this page. Approximately 1/2

"

(about a finger’s width) from the center joint of the wing, screw in the small self-tapping screws (one on each wing half) about half way.

Note: The screws will start to thread in easily, then become

more difficult to turn as the screw enters the hardwood wing spar.

Step 5. For your convenience, the aileron torque rod

connectors are already installed on the torque rods of the wing.

If the connectors are not installed, screw the aileron connectors onto the threaded rods (called aileron torque rods), which are protruding from the wing. Screw the connector until the rod is flush with the top of the aileron connector.

Trailing edge of wing

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8

Stage 1 — Assembling the Wing

CONTINUED

When both aileron linkages are attached, center the servo so the servo arm is parallel to the wing’s leading and trailing edge.

Step 6. Install the Z-bend of one of the aileron linkages into the outermost hole in the aileron servo arm as shown.

Note: It may fit tightly and be necessary to work the Z-bend back and forth until it inserts freely.

Helpful Hint: To make it easer to insert the Z-bend into the servo horn,locate one of the screws that later will be used to secure the

Shock-Loc ™ radio tray. Screw it into the hole in the servo horn three turns, where the pushrod wire Z-bend will be inserted, and then back it out. This will make installing the Z-bend much easier.

Step 7. We will now be fitting the clevis into the aileron connectors on the torque rods. At this point, it may be necessary to adjust the length of the aileron linkage so the ailerons are aligned with the trailing edge of the wing surface. To adjust the length of the aileron linkage, simply turn the plastic clevis in or out until, when connected, the aileron is level with the wing.

Note: If the aileron is lower than the trailing edge, the linkage needs to be shortened and vice versa.

Now install the other aileron linkage on the opposite side using the same procedure as above. Once installed, move the linkages back and forth a few times until they move freely.

Congratulations — you have just completed the wing!

Stage 2 — Installing the Radio

Parts Needed

• Fuselage with pushrods and tank pre-installed

• Shock-Loc radio tray with six self-tapping screws

• Three servos with rubber grommets (12). Note: The eyelets and servo screws included with the radio will not be used

• Receiver (included with the radio system)

• Battery pack (included with the radio system)

• Switch harness (included with the radio system)

• Aileron extension (additional part required)

• Medium rubber bands (2)

• Double-sided servo tape (2 pieces)

• Masking tape (optional)

• Pen (optional)

Rubber

Grommets

Rubber

Bands

Shock-Loc

Radio Tray

Receiver Battery

Pack

Double-Sided

Servo Tape

Switch

Harness

Aileron

Extension

Step 8. Prepare your servos by installing the rubber grommets on the three remaining servos, four on each.

Note: Do not install the brass eyelets. The Shock-Loc radio tray is designed to capture the servos by the rubber grommets and the eyelets are not needed.

Hint: It’s helpful to mark the servo wires so they can easily be identified when it’s time to install them in the receiver. A piece of masking tape near the connector with the appropriate letter (T=throttle, E=elevator, R=rudder) written on it will save time later during the radio hook up.

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10

Stage 2 — Installing the Radio

CONTINUED

Step 9. Install the servos in the fuselage as shown. First install the elevator and rudder servos and then the throttle servo, feeding the servo leads in first toward the front of the airplane, and then placing in the servo.

Important: Refer to the photo to note which servo goes in which position.

Important: Note the position of the servo arms.

Elevator

Bottom

Now, using the two medium rubber bands, wrap the bands around the receiver and battery pack to secure them in place.

Each rubber band makes a complete revolution around the two and attaches to the side notches on the Shock-Loc radio tray.

Throttle Rudder

Step 10. Peel back one side of a piece of double-sided tape and attach the tape to the bottom of the receiver. Attach the other piece of the double-sided tape to the battery pack. Now peel off the opposite sides of the double-sided tape and stick the battery and receiver centered on opposite sides of the Shock-Loc radio tray in the position shown. (The receiver goes centered on one side of the tray while the battery pack goes centered on the other.)

Note: The receiver servo slots need to be positioned such that they’re on the end of the tray, facing away from the servo openings.

Top

Stage 2 — Installing the Radio

Step 11. It’s now time to install the Shock-Loc radio tray into place. The radio tray will be easier to install if the servo arms are removed. To do this, simply unscrew the screw holding the servo arms to the servo and place the arms and screws off to the side.

With the arms removed, slide the pushrods back and place the

Shock-Loc radio tray into position.

Note: It’s important that the pushrods go on top of the radio tray.

Note: The radio tray fits in place with the receiver on the top side.

Using the six self-tapping screws, fit the radio tray on top of the servos as shown in the photo.

Note: The order in which you put in the screws does not matter.

CONTINUED

Step 12. Insert the three servo connectors marked in Step 8 in the appropriate slots in the receiver (rudder, elevator and throttle).

Note: The plugs are polarized and therefore only fit in one way; do not force them.

Note: If you have a JR radio, the wires have three colors — brown, red and orange — and the orange wire will face up in this installation.

Loosely secure all six screws first, then go back and tighten in place. The screws should be tightened just enough to slightly compress the rubber servo grommets. Note: Do not overtighten as doing so would eliminate the shock absorption feature of the grommets.

Plug in the aileron extension in the aileron port of the receiver.

Note: The other end with the female connector will accept the wing servo lead later.

If you have any questions about these hook-ups, consult the manual included with your radio system.

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Stage 2 — Installing the Radio

Step 13. A hole is pre-cut in the left side of the fuselage for the switch. Unscrew the switch plate from the switch and place it over this opening in the fuselage side.

Note: In general, most modelers like the “on” position toward the front, though either direction is fine.

CONTINUED

Step 14. There are three wires on the switch harness — one female and two male. Plug the male battery pack lead into the female connector on the switch harness. Turn the switch “off” and take one of the two male connectors from the switch (either one, we’ll check it below) and plug it into the battery slot in the receiver.

Take the transmitter off the charger and turn it on. Turn on your receiver switch. If you chose the correct male lead, when you move the sticks on the transmitter, you’ll be able to hear the servos move. If they do not sound, simply disconnect the male lead that goes to the receiver from the switch and plug in the other male lead into the transmitter. Tuck the remaining male lead (used to charge the airplane’s battery pack) under the radio tray for now.

Note: If you have any questions about hook-up, consult your radio system manual.

When aligned correctly, poke two holes in the soft balsa fuselage sides through the switch plate using the switch screws.

From inside the airplane, put the switch into position and then screw the switch in place.

Stage 3 — Installing the Linkages

Parts Needed

• Fuselage from Stage 2 with pushrods installed

• Two long pushrods (long: throttle; short: steerable nose wheel)

• Servo arms removed in Stage 2

• Throttle linkage with clevis

• Steering linkage with clevis

• Transmitter

Step 15. It is now time to center the trims. Take your transmitter and move the trim levers to the center position. Then move the throttle stick to the middle position. Turn on your transmitter and your receiver. Now turn off the receiver and then turn off the transmitter. The servos are now centered.

Note: Since the servo arms are removed from the servos, you will not see any movement with this centering, rather you will simply hear a momentary sound as the servos are centered.

Center

Throttle

Stick

Center Trims

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Stage 3 — Installing the Linkages

Step 16. We will now hook up the pushrods. First we’ll install the elevator linkage. Take one servo arm and locate the pushrod that exits the back of the tail. This pushrod goes to the back right servo (elevator). Insert the Z-bend in the innermost hole in the top of the servo arm.

Note: When inserting z-bends into a servo arm, it’s important that the z-bend be installed from the top of the servo arm. The bottom of the servo arm can be identified by the splines located on the bottom that fit over the servo output shaft.

Note: The pushrod can be taken all the way out of the fuselage, which may make it easier to install the servo arm.

CONTINUED

Step 17. The pushrod that exits the top of the fuselage is the rudder pushrod. It attaches to the left (rudder) servo. Take another servo arm and insert the Z-bend from the rudder pushrod in the innermost hole. Also note the rudder servo will have two control rods attached to it — the rudder and the steering control rod.

Throttle

Elevator

Rudder

Front

Screw the servo arm back onto the elevator servo (back, righthand side), making sure the arm is perpendicular to the fuselage

(see photo).

Front

Stage 3 — Installing the Linkages

Step 18. Locate the throttle control rod and the steering control rod. Note that the throttle control rod is the longer of the two.

Unscrew the plastic clevis from both rods.

From outside the fuselage on the bottom, install the shorter of the two rods, threaded rod end first, through the slot cutout on the bottom (see photo #2). Screw the clevis on the threaded rod so it doesn’t fall out of the fuselage. Now attach the clevis in the

outermost hole on the rudder servo’s servo arm as shown.

Note the steering pushrod should pass underneath the rubber bands that attach the receiver to the Shock-Loc radio tray as shown in the photo.

CONTINUED

Front

Install the z-bend in the outermost hole in a servo arm. Mount the throttle servo arm so it’s perpendicular to the fuselage and fasten with the servo screw.

Steering

Control Rod

From inside the fuselage, insert the throttle control rod threaded end first through the pre-drilled hole in the bulkhead just to the right of the fuel tank and then through the firewall. Install a clevis (8–10 turns) to prevent the throttle control rod from falling back through the holes.

Hint: Bending an angle approximately 3 " from the end of the pushrod to be inserted may make insertion easier. After insertion, simply unbend the bend, straightening the rod.

Front

Congratulations! You are over half-way done and you’ve just completed the most difficult portion of assembling your Easy 2. Now is a good time to take a break; however, if you’re anxious to continue, continue on to Stage 4.

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Stage 4 — Installing the Tail

Parts Needed

• Fuselage with radio gear installed from Stage 3

• Horizontal tail section

• Vertical tail section

• 4-40 x 3/8

" Machine screws (2)

• Washers (2)

• Wing Nuts (2)

• Thread locker (tube)

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Horizontal

Tail

Wing

Nuts

Washers

Step 19. Attach the vertical tail to the horizontal tail. The threaded rods protruding from the vertical tail pass through the front two holes in the horizontal tail.

Note: The colored trim on the horizontal tail should face up.

Screw on the two wing nuts provided to secure the vertical tail to the horizontal tail. Tighten just until they’re snug.

4-40 x 3/8´´

Machine Screws

Thread

Locker

Vertical

Tail

Important Safety Note: The wing nuts must be tightened to a 45 degree angle to the horizontal tail (either direction), which prevents them from loosening when installed in the fuselage.

45°

Stage 4 — Installing the Tail

Step 20. Trial fit the tail assembly into the tail of the fuselage as shown by sliding forward the tongue of the vertical fin into the fuselage. Be sure the rudder pushrod goes on top of the horizontal tail.

CONTINUED

Now take the second screw, put a washer on it, apply a drop of thread locker and insert it from the bottom, through the fuselage and into the tail assembly. Secure tightly.

Step 21. Remove the tail assembly. There are two screw holes on the rear plate. Put a washer on the screw and install the front screw in the plate, through the hole on the bottom of the fuselage to the top. Apply a drop of thread locker to the screw. Fit the tail back into place, making sure the pushrod goes on top of the horizontal tail, and screw the tail in place. Snug the screw firmly.

Make sure the tail is secure by tugging on the tail.

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Stage 4 — Installing the Tail

Step 22. Now we’ll adjust the pushrod. Center the elevator and rudder servo as we did in Step 14 (repeat Step 14, page 12, just in case the servos got “bumped” during any prior installations).

Now shorten or lengthen the pushrod by screwing the clevis until the elevator and rudder are even with the tail area ahead of them when the clevis is attached. The clevis goes in the

second to the outermost holes on the control horn of the elevator and rudder. Make sure the rudder and elevator are parallel (inline) with the surface in front of them.

CONTINUED

Note that the rudder and elevator will be inline with the tail surfaces when the length of the pushrod is adjusted correctly

Stage 5 — Installing the Landing Gear

Parts Needed

• Fuselage

• Main landing gear with wheel pre-installed

• Nose wheel landing assembly with wheel pre-installed

• Steering arm with screw

• Spring

• Collar with screw (1)

• 4mm screws (2)

• Dowel rods (2)

• Thread locker

Main

Landing

Gear

Nose

Wheel

Assembly

Nose Wheel

Control Horn

4mm Screws Thread

Locker

Dowel Rods

Step 23. Rest the fuselage upside down with the tail hanging off the edge of the work table. Place the main landing gear over the pre-drilled holes in the bottom of the fuselage.

Note: The landing gear is designed to sweep back when viewed from the side.

Put a drop of thread locker on each of the two 4mm screws, insert them through the landing gear and fuselage and tightly screw the landing gear into position. Be sure to tighten snugly.

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Stage 5 — Installing the Landing Gear

Step 24. Place the steering arm on the Z-bend (using the

innermost hole) with the screw pointing toward the front. Now pass the wire nose wheel assembly through the steering arm, then through the spring, then through the black molded nose wheel bearing on the front of the fuselage, then through the collar, then through the engine mount. See the photo for correct placement. Tighten the screw in the collar, leaving the spring fully extended.

CONTINUED

Step 26. With the rudder servo’s control arm centered, adjust the nose wheel so that it’s straight with the fuselage. Sight down the fuselage to make sure it’s straight. Tighten the steering arm screw securely.

Step 27. To hold the wing in position, we will install two dowel rods in the fuselage. Slide the dowel rods through the holes in the top of the fuselage (one in front and back). Continue pressing into place until an even amount comes out of either side.

Note: This will be a tight fit.

Step 25. Turn the plane over and again center the rudder servo

(see Step 14). Adjust the steering pushrod so the nose wheel steering arm is parallel with the front of the firewall. To adjust, lengthen or shorten the nose wheel pushrod by screwing in or out on the nose wheel pushrod clevis.

Stage 6 — Installing the Engine

Parts Needed

• .40 - .46 size 2-cycle engine with muffler

• Engine mount with mounting hardware (the mounting hardware is pre-installed on fuselage)

• Fuselage assembly

Step 28. On the front of the airplane is the pre-attached engine mount. Unscrew the engine mounting hardware (engine mount and clamps) from the engine mount. Retain the hardware as we’ll be using it to mount the engine in place.

Slide the engine as far forward as it will go and center the engine. Then tighten the screws until they become snug.

Note: Be sure the screws that hold the clamp over the engine mounting lugs are tightened very securely.

Place the engine on the engine mount and loosely clamp the engine in place using the provided mounting hardware.

Note: The knurled (checkered) side of the clamps faces down.

Hint: When secured, grab hold of the engine—you should be able to pick up the airplane. This is a check to be certain the engine is tightened securely. You need to continually check the tightness of these screws every few flights to be certain they are still snug.

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Stage 6 — Installing the Engine

Step 29. Center the throttle servo and adjust the clevis (screw in/out) until the carburetor barrel is 1/2 open when the clevis is attached to the outermost hole on the throttle servo arm.

CONTINUED

Step 31. Note the two colors of fuel tubing, clear and orange.

Attach the clear fuel line to the fuel nipple. Attach the orange fuel line to the pressure nipple on the muffler.

Step 30. Install the muffler using the screws provided with the engine.

Note: Some engines use Allen type hex bolts, and the hex wrenches are included with the engine.

Insert the screws through the engine and mount the muffler. The muffler screws must be very snug to prevent loosening under vibration.

Step 32. It’s now time to fit the wing to the fuselage. Attach the female connector of the aileron extension to the servo lead on the switch harness. Center the wing on the fuselage, making sure the aileron wire goes inside the fuselage. Take a rubber band and put it over the front (leading edge) dowel and then stretch it over the wing and attach it to the back (trailing edge) dowel. Install all six rubber bands in this manner.

Note: Always go from the leading edge to the trailing edge

(front to rear).

Installing the Propeller

You will need to purchase the appropriate propeller for your particular engine. If you have a .40 size engine, a 10 x 6 propeller will work. For .46 size engines, an 11 x 6 is the correct propeller.

Unscrew the prop nut from the engine and install the spinner back plate, then the propeller, then the prop washer. Securely tighten the prop nut using a 4-way or crescent wrench. Now install the spinner using the two Phillips head screws provided.

Installing the Antenna

Remove the wing and unhook the aileron connector. Uncoil the receiver. Locate the antenna tube included in the Easy 2. Pull about 5” of antenna wire past the end of the antenna and secure by wrapping a rubber band around the tube to hold the antenna in place. Insert the antenna tube through the back of the fuselage. Tuck the front of the tube just behind the servos in the fuselage.

Note: You can thread the antenna through the tube, but this time consuming task is unnecessary. Rubber banding the antenna to the tube is just as effective.

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Balancing the Easy 2

Before your first flight, it’s important to check the balance of the

Easy 2. This is referred to as checking the C.G. (center of gravity). Notice on the bottom of the wing where the red leading edge trim meets the white. Where these two meet is where the model should balance.

With the wing attached, place each index finger under the wing

(as shown) at the point where the red meets the white trim.

Note: you can feel where the two meet.

Now gently lift the Easy 2. If balanced correctly, the fuselage will hang level. If the nose hangs low, it will be necessary to add weight to the tail. If the tail hangs low, it will be necessary to add weight to the nose. This can best be accomplished by using stick-on weights, which are available at your local hobby shop.

Note: In most case, the Easy 2 will balance properly with no additional weight needed.

Pre-Flight Check

❑

1. Check that all control functions move in the correct direction. If not, use the respective reversing switch to correct the direction.

ELEVATOR

AILERON

ELEVATOR

AILERON

CARBURETOR

THROTTLE

1/16”

RUDDER

AILERON

RUDDER

❑

2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into position.

❑

3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight.

❑

4. Charge the transmitter and receiver battery per the instructions included with the radio system.

❑

5. Read and follow all the instructions included with the engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure.

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Flight Instructions

For first-time pilots, the thought of flying their Easy 2 through loops, rolls and perfect three-point landings can be thrilling.

Learning to fly, however, takes time, patience and, most importantly, a good instructor. If you’re a first-time pilot, don't try to fly your Easy 2 alone. Seek an experienced instructor.

Your local hobby shop can put you in touch with an instructor in your area who can fly and trim your Easy 2 and then give you your first chance on the “sticks" with very little risk of damage to the airplane. We cannot overemphasize the importance of having a qualified instructor to help you through your first flight. Don't try it alone!

Experienced pilots will find the Easy 2 to be a confidence inspiring airplane. Super stable and slow flight characteristics make pinpoint landings a breeze. At full throttle with a strong

.40 engine, the Easy 2 is more than capable of most sport aerobatic maneuvers. The self righting stability of the Easy 2, helps to make it one of the easiest airplanes you'll ever fly.

"T

ICKET TO

F

LY

R/C Pilot Program"

Enclosed with your Easy 2 is the “T

ICKET TO

F

LY

R/C Pilot

Program” Video. This video guides you through every step of the learning process and is an invaluable teaching aid which will shorten the time it takes to properly learn to operate and fly the

Easy 2.

Repair Information

One of the advantages of a VRTF kit is that replacement parts are readily available through your hobby shop. In the misforture of a crash or broken part, see you local hobby dealer for a replacement.

Pre-Flight At The Field

Range Test Your Radio

1. Before each flying session range check your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane.

With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30 paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of all functions. If not, don't attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by the manufacturer.

2. Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throttle, rudder) move in the correct direction.

3. Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per the instructions included with your radio.

Adjusting the Engine

1. Completely read the instructions included with your engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure. At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at full throttle and adjust the idle and low speed needle so that a consistent idle is achieved.

Before you fly, be sure that your engine reliably idles, transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only when this is achieved should any plane be considered ready for flight.

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AMA Safety Code

1994 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 1994

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code in order for AMA liability protection to apply

General

1.

I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2.

I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3.

Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4.

At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.

Only those persons essential to the flight operations are to be permitted on the flying side of the line; all others must be on the spectator side. Flying over the spectator side of the line is prohibited, unless beyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum permissible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds.

5.

At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight line must be established, one side of which is for flying, with the other side for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contest director or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operations or as having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show or demonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. The only exceptions which my be permitted to the single straight line requirements, under special circumstances involving consideration of side conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must be jointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6.

Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I will fly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA Safety

Code.

7.

I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not apply to models flown indoors.

8.

I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internal combustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely hazardous fuels such as those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

9.

I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounted devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets flown in accordance with the National Model

Rocketry Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those items authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case, models using rocket motors as primary means of propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. Note: A model aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able to carry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) unless I have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations from the AMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by any restriction(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This does not apply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during, participation in any model operations.

Radio Control

1.

I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2.

I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3.

I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4.

I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properly licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur

Band frequencies.) Further, any transmitters that I use at a sanctioned event must have a certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed indicating that it was manufactured or modified for operation at 20 kHz frequency separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz).

5.

I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying site without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

Glossary

Ailerons. Each side of this airplane has a hinged control surface, called an aileron, located on the trailing edge of the wing. Move the left aileron up and the right aileron down, and the airplane will turn or roll to the right. Perform the opposite actions, and the airplane will roll to the left. This is how you control the airplane's direction in flight.

Carburetor. By adjusting the needle valve in the carburetor, you control the engine’s lean/rich fuel mixture and determine the airplane's speed.

Charger. This is the device used to charge/recharge batteries.

If NiCad batteries are provided with the radio, a charger is usually provided as well.

Clevis. The clevis connects the wire end of the pushrod to the control horn of the control surface. A small clip, the clevis has fine threads so that you can adjust the length of the pushrod.

Clunk. Located in the fuel tank, a clunk is weighted and ensures that the intake line has a steady supply of fuel.

Computer Radio. By using the advanced programming functions of the transmitter, you can adjust the airplane without changing any mechanical structures.

Control Horn. This arm connects the control surface to the clevis and pushrod.

Control Surfaces. The moveable part on the wing and tail that causes the aircraft to roll (aileron), pitch (elevator) or yaw (rudder).

Dead Stick. When the airplane is in flight gliding, without the engine running, it is called “dead stick.”

Dihedral. The degree of angle (V-shaped bend) at which the wings intersect the plane is called dihedral. More dihedral gives an airplane more aerodynamic stability. Some sailplanes and trainer planes with large dihedral dispense with ailerons and use only the rudder to control the roll and yaw.

Electric Starter. This is the small motor commonly used to start the airplane's engine.

Elevator. The hinged control surface functions as an elevator, which you adjust to control the airplane's pitch axis. Pulling the transmitter's control stick toward the bottom of the transmitter adjusts the elevator upward, and the airplane begins to climb.

Push the control stick forward, and the airplane begins to dive.

Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV). This device is used to check the voltage of the battery pack.

Flight Box. The box in which you store and transport your flying equipment is called a flight box.

Flight Pack or Airborne Pack. These interchangeable terms describe the radio equipment that is installed on the airplane.

Fuel Overflow Line (Vent). This line pressures the fuel tank and provides an even fuel flow to the engine. It also functions as an overflow line when the fuel tank is full.

Fuel Pickup Line. This line connects the fuel tank to the carburetor, usually with a clunk on the tank end to keep the fuel flowing while the aircraft is in flight.

Fuselage. The main body of an airplane.

Glow Plug Clip/Battery. A 1.2-volt battery with a clip which is connected to your engine’s glow plug used to start the engine.

You remove it once the engine is running smoothly.

High Wing. This term describes an airplane that has its wings mounted on the top of the fuselage.

Hinge. The hinges are the moving blades on the control surface that allow you to control the airplane's movement. All hinges must be glued properly and securely to prevent the airplane from crashing. (This has already been done for you on the Easy 2.)

Horizontal Stabilizer. The horizontal surface of the tail gives the airplane stability while in flight.

Leading Edge. The front of a flying surface.

Main Landing Gear. The wheel and gear assembly the airplane uses to land. It is attached to the bottom of the fuselage.

Muffler. This device muffles engine noise and increases the back pressure from the engine’s exhaust stack, which can improve the airplane's performance at low speeds. Mufflers are usually required by R/C Clubs.

Needle Valve. This mechanism within the carburetor adjusts the fuel mixture and throttle. Refer to your engine’s manufacturer instructions for directions on how to adjust the needle valve.

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Glossary

NiCad. This abbreviation stands for Nickel Cadmium, the chemical compound used in rechargeable batteries.

Nitro. Short for nitromethane, a fuel additive that improves an airplane's high-speed performance. Check your engine’s instructions to determine the ideal nitro content for your engine.

Nose Gear. The part of the landing gear that is attached to the nose of the fuselage. The nose gear is usually connected to the rudder servo to help you steer the airplane on the ground.

Pitch Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane’s nose is raised or lowered. By adjusting the elevator, you can raise the airplane's nose above the pitch axis (climb) or lower it below the pitch axis (dive).

Pushrod. The rigid mechanism that transfers movement from the servo to the control surface.

Receiver (Rx). The receiver unit in the airplane receives your signals from the ground transmitter and passes the instructions along to the airplane’s servos.

Roll Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane’s wings are raised or lowered. By adjusting the ailerons, you can drop a wing tip below the roll axis and cause the airplane to bank or roll.

Rudder. The hinged control surface on the vertical stabilizer that controls the airplane’s yaw. Moving the rudder to the left causes the airplane to yaw left; moving the rudder to the right causes it to yaw right.

Servo. The servo transforms your ground commands into physical adjustments of the airplane while it’s in the air.

Servo Output Arm. A removable arm or wheel that connects the servo to the pushrod. Also called servo horn.

Spinner. Term describing the nose cone that covers the propeller hub.

CONTINUED

Switch Harness. This switch is commonly located on the fuselage and governs the on/off mechanism for the flight pace.

Tachometer. A device the measures the engine’s RPM

(rotations per minute) by counting light impulses that pass through the spinning propeller.

Thread Locker. A liquid that solidifies; used to prevent screws from loosening due to vibration.

Torque Rods. Inserted into ailerons, these rigid wire rods run along the wings’ trailing edge, then bend downward and connect to the pushrods.

Trainer Airplane. Designed to fly with high stability at low speeds, a trainer model airplane allows new users some extra reaction time as they learn to control the airplane’s movements.

Transmitter (Tx). The device used on the ground to transmit instructions to the airplane. Three transmitter modes are used in model airplanes. The most common is Mode II, where the left stick controls the throttle and rudder and the right stick controls the elevator and aileron.

Vertical Stabilizer. The vertical surface of the tail gives the airplane stability while in flight.

Wheel Collar. The round retaining piece that anchors wheels in place on the axle.

Wing. Because wings provide the primary lift force on an airplane, adjustments to the wings affect the airplane’s movements while in flight.

Yaw Axis. The vertical plane through which the airplane’s nose passes as it yaws to the left or to the right. The rudder controls the yaw axis.

Z-Bend. The wire ends of pushrods have Z-shaped bends, which attach to the servo.

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© Copyright 1998, Horizon Hobby Distributors, Inc.