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L.L L L .) d I
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• THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING OUR OVERLOCKING MACHINE
This overlocking machine can stitch dependable seams on all kinds of fabric, both light and heavy, including cotton, wool, rayon, tricot, jersey, and knits.
You do not need a special table for this portable machine. It will do professional work as blouses, skirts, shirts, slacks, coats and trimming handkerchiefs, towels, tableclothes, and so on.
We suggest that you read this instruction manual carefully before you start to operate the machine.
• FOR YOUR SAFETY
1. Keep your eyes on the needles when operating the sewing machine. Do not touch the hand wheel, the knife or the needles when the machine is running.
2. Make sure to turn the power switch to
‘off”
and pull out the plug from electric socket in the following cases:
* When you have finished your sewing.
* When you leave the sewing machine temporarily.
* When replacing any parts.
* When clanirg and adjusting the machine.
• BEFORE YOU USE
1. Wipe dust and oil off the sewing machine to avoid any stains on the sewing materials.
2. Do trial sewing by using the same sewing materials you intend to sew before you commence.
3. Read this instruction manual thoroughly before replacing the knives and the needles. Follow the instruc tions for correct replacements and adjustments.
4. This machine has a maximum speed of 1,400s.p.m.The motor and handwheel turn the same direction as the household sewing machine.
• SPECIFICATION
Description
Number of thread
Number of needle
Sewing speed
Specification
4
2
Up to 1400 s.p.m
Stitch width
4 thread-—-ómm
Stitch length
Differential feed ratio
Lift of presser foot
Needle
Dimentions
Weight
1 —4.5mm
0.8—2 (DF-type only)
4.5mm
HAxI No.
11-14 or
1301705H No. 75—90
290(W)x260(L)x275(H)
6kg (13 Ibs)
6.6kg (15 Ibs) (DF-type)
—1—
Built in light
Upper knife holder
Throat plate
Cloth plate lower
MAIN PARIS: NAMES AND FUNCTIONS
Thread guide
Thread reel bar
Upper
Upper thread tension dial
Front panel
Thread guide plate lower thread tension dial
)lower looper)
Lower thread tension dial
)Upper looper)
Hand wheel
Front cover
—2—
Accessory box
Oiler
Brush
Screwdriver
Tweezers
Needles (3pcs)
(HAxI#14)
Hexagon wrench
Thread spool holder caps
(4pcs)
Cone holder (4pcs)
Chip box
Machine cover
• Corrying case
• Roll edge throat plate
(For 4 thread)
• Hemming foot
•
• Roll edge throat plate
(For 3 thread)
• Threader
Beading foot
•
Elastic foot
• Video tape
• These accessories are not sup plied with machines. They are however available as special ac cessories from your local dealer.
—3—
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE
• Connecting the foot control
Connect the foot Control plug to the machine socket as shown below, and then connect the main plug to the main socket.
lI
Main socket
Foot controll
• Foot control
Place your foot on the foot control as shown.
As you lightly press on the foot control, the machine will sew slowly and increase in speed with added pressure.
• Power/lamp switch
The power switch is located on the lower right side of the machine.
Foot control
Caution:
1. Disconnect the electrical cord from the wall outlet when mchine is not in use or when it is being cleaned.
2. Turn the power switch to the “off” position before changing needles or throat plates, and before connecting the cord. This will help preventing accidents.
—4—
ritairtiiviipji rein
iniutiini
• Thread reel bar
Pull up thread reel bar to its highest point before threading.
• Overlock thread
It is advisable to use overlock thread for this overlock machine.
Thread reel bar point
Thread reel stand
• For domestic spools
Domestic type thread spools can be used on this machine.
©
Place the domestic spool on the thread reel stand.
(me thread notch on the spool should be at the boffom.)
®
Push the spool holder cap provided, on the spool.
HOW TO ATTACH THE
WASTE CHIP BOX
It catches the cut-off fabric as you sew, for keeping your working area clean. Place the waste chip box between the machine and fable.
Spool holder cap
‘Domestic spool
Notch
F
—5—
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
c. Note that lower looper has slot to place thread in for easy threading
(-4
See arrow on close up picture.
Correct threading is important otherwise uneven stitches or thread breakage may result. You will find a threading illustration when you open the front cover. In addition, each thread guide is colored for threading indication.
To help in threading, threader and tweezers will be found in the accessory bag.
cD Open front cover and cloth plate.
© Raise the needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you by hand.
© Pass the lower looper thread and upper looper thread as illustrated. Make certain to pass the thread between
two
tension discs.
© Pull the tread end about 10cm
(4inches) long from the looper eyes, place the threads together under the presser foot.
Helpful hints: a. Thread loopers before threading needle b. When threading left looper it may be more convenient to have your tension set on “0”. This will allow you to have enough slack in the thread.
After the machine is threaded increase the tension to the appropriate number.
Warning:
“Switch the sewing machine off
(“0”) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser toot, and the like:’
—6—-
® Pass the right and left needle threads as Illustrated below. Make certain tension discs.
to pass the thread between the twc
®
©
Pull the thread end about 10cm (4incnes) long from the needle
Place the needle threads together under the presser foot.
eyes.
®
Close front cover and cloth plate when the threading is finished.
NOTE: To assit thread passing around tension dials turn all four at o’ setting. Ensure thread pass through the tension discs and behind the hook in each case.
knob to the desired setting numbers according to the fabrics
Then turn each
(See page
11)
EASY THREAD CHANGING
Instructions for changing threads are given below.
1. Cut the thread near the spools.
2. Exchange the spool with a new one and tie end to remaining thread making knot as small as possible.
3. Turn Thread Tension Dials to the smallest number.
4. Press Foot Control and run machine until upper and lower thread knot comes through looper hole.
5. Stop needle thread knot before passing through eye of needles. Cut thread and pass through needle eye manually.
—7—
TRIAL SEWING
When the overlock has been threaded for first time or re-threaded because of thread breakage during sewing, start sewing in the following manner.
D
Place the needle threads and looper threads under the presser foot.
© Hold the end of threads between your left finger tips, gently turn the hand wheel toward you two or three times with your right hand to check that the threads form the overlock stitch.
©
Then place fabric for trial sewing under the presser foot and start sewing.
® When work is finished, continue running the machine and move work back slowly so that a chain of thread
5—ócm long is made as shown at left. Cut the threads with the scissors.
©
Leave this chain ready to start next sewing.
—8—
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Right needle tension dial
Left needle thread tension dial
Thread tension differs with the type of fabric and the thickness and type of thread. Adjustment of thread tensions should be mode each time you sew accordingly.
Adjusts the tension dials using the upper and lower thread tensions while watching the stitch as illustrated. Thread tension is tightened by turning clockwise, and loosened by turning counter clockwise, the applicable tension dial.
Lower looper thread tension dial
Upper looper thread tension dial
Proper thread tension
Right needle thread
Lower looper thread
Upper looper thread
—9—
(A)
Lower looper thread tension is too tight.
(B) Upper looper thread tension is too tight.
Tighten the upper looper thread tension dial or loosen the lower looper thread tension dial.
(C)
Left
needle thread tension is too loose.
Tighten the lower looper thread tension dial or loosen the upper looper thread tension dial.
(D) Righf needle thread tension is too loose.
Tighten the left needle thread tension dial.
Tighten the right needle thread tension dial.
—10—
__________________
CHART FOR TENSION ADJUSTMENT
Threads
Needle Fabrics khtwiqht
• Georgeffe
• Organdy
• Lawn
• Voile
• Crepe de chine
•Silk
•
Cotton
•
Spun polyester
•
Polyester
Stitch length
2.O—3.5mIm
Standard
2.51m
[
Recommended tension settings
I
‘2
2
1
21
Medium weight
• Cotton
• Poplin
• Wool
• Linen
• Gingham
• Corduroy
• Suede
• Satin
• Fleece
Hea’ weight
• Denim
• Tweed
• Velour
• Canvas
• Upholstery
•
Cotton
•
Spun polyester
•
Polyester
Standard sewing machine needle
Type
HAxI (Japan) or
130/705H (Europe) or
15x1 (USA)
2.03.5mIm
Standard
25mIm
[ji
131121121
[jj [_jj [jj
1_
•
Cotton
•
Spun polyester
•
Polyester
2.5—4.OmIm
Standard
3OmIm
I
1
I I
1
ADJUSTING OVERLOCK STITCH WIDTH
This machine is a two needle, three or four thread convertible overiock machine. Select your stitches accord ing to what and how you sew:
(a) 3-thread overedge stitch 5mm width. Use only left needle and three threads. Remove the right needle.
(b)
3-thread overedge stitch 3mm width. Use only the right needle
and
three threads. Remove the left needle.
The right or the left needle can be removed simply by loosening the needle set screw.
(a)
(b)
5mm
3mm
‘ksideØ
Front side
,_
ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH
The proper cuffing width differs with the
type
of fabric. Check the seam each time, and adjust the
cutting
width as follows.
1. Turn
power
switch off.
2. Open the front cover and cloth plate.
3. Turn the stitch wiath dial to chose wider or narrow stitch width.
The adjustable range is around 1 mm.
—12—
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length of this machine has been PRE-SET to 3mm, as longest stitch.
To adjust to a shorter length, simply turn the length dial to a lower number.
adjustment dial
(OF-type only)
ADJUSTING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
The presser foot pressure of the machine has beenpre-setand requires no particular readjustment according to the iype of fabric (light-or heavyweight).
However, if you need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw with a coin.
For sewing very thin fabric, loosen the pressure by turning the screw counter cIockwise and for heavy fabric, tighten by turning it clockwise.
—13—
REPLACING
THE NEEDLES
• Turn the
power
switch to
“off” before setting the needles
• Needle stem Is I301705H (HAxI)
Raise the needle bar to
its
highest position by turning the handwheel towards you.
Open the front cover and lower the presser foot.
Using the hexagon wrench to loosen the needle clamp screws and remove the needles.
Insert the needle as for as it will go into the needle clamp, fiat side of needle facing away from you. Tighten needle clamp screw with wrench.
©
Make one complete turn of hand wheel to check for proper clearance.
Needle
Needle set screws
Thread groove
• Be sure to use proper size needle for the thread and type of material u are sewing. Using bent or blunt needle may result in breaking thread or poor stitching.
REPLACING THE LIGHT BULB
* CAUTION:
Disconnect machine from power supply by removing plug from socket-outlet before replacing the light bulb.
Do not attempt to change the bulb until it is cool.
Do not replace bulb of more than 15 waifs max.
© loosen the light cover screw.
©
Pull out the light cover, remove old bulb by unscrewing. Replace with new bulb.
©
Reset the light cover screw.
—14—
__________________________________
REPLACING THE CUTTING BLADE
CAUTION: Be sure to disconnect the power supply by removing plug from socket-outlet before replacing the cutting blade.
The upper blade might become dull after using a period of time and will need to be replaced.
Set screw
Presser foot
Upper blade
Throat plate
Upper blade
Upper blade holder
Upper lade arm
Throat plate
() RaIse the upper blade arm to Its highest position by
® turning the hand wheel toward you.
Loosen the upper blade set screw and take off the upper blade.
Replace the new upper blade and tighten the upper blade set screw tentatively.
® Turn the hand wheel toward you to set the cutting edge of the upper blade to its lowest position with the lower blade to overlap between 0.5mm and
1mm, and tighten the upper blade set screw securely.
Replacing the lower blade
The lower blade (Fixed knife) of machine is made of a special material which does not require frequent replacement. However, should it chip and need to be replaced, a new one can be purchased from your local dealer.
blade
Warning:
“Switch the reel overlock machine to off when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as the threading needles, changing needles, threading loopers, changing needle plate, changing knives, changing presser foot, and the like.”
BUILTIN
POCKET TYPE
HANDLE
Built-In pocket type handle Is a convenient way to carry your machIne
Pocket type handle
—15—
CLEANING AND OILING
To keep your machine running smoothly, it is necessary to keep it clean and lubricated at all times.
from socket-outlet.
First, disconnect machine from power supply by removing plug remove dust and lint that accumulate around
Open both front and side covers. Using the brush provided, the points indicated by arrows.
the whole exposed area, and then apply a few drops of oil to
Always use a good quality sewing machine oil.
• Apply one or two drops of oil to each lubrication point.
(DF-type only)
—16—
SEWING APPLICATIONS
(Start and end of a seam)
Start of stitch
Start of stitch
Cut this section aWa)’
End of stitch
Overlap the stitch by about 2cm
Chain-off thread about 2cm
Direction to feed
• Overcasting the hem of a skirt
Overcast the hem edge, keeping the depth of the hem even.
When
overcasting the hem on a garment which is shaped, it is necessary to first work a line of straight stitches with a normal sewing ease in the fullness evenly round the hem.
machine
to
To overcast, place the fabric at on angle under the
presser
foot and sew into the hem edge position in a curved line. At the end of the sewing, overlap the beginning stitches by approx. 2cm and stitch off the fabric to leave a chain of threads of about 2cm. This chain-off thread at the end of the sewing prevents the stitch from coming undone.
Slip these ends into the hem when sewing the hem into position.
• Overcasting a corner
Because there is a certain distance between the knife and the needle, you should cut away a small piece of the seam allowance at the begin ning as illustrated so that the fabric con reach the needle.
When you have finished sewing along one edge, lift the presser foot, pull the work out to the back of the foot, taking care not to break the threads.
©
Turn the work, lower the presser foot and sew evenly along the next edge.
•Making a stitched and overcast seam
Since your machine has a knife to cut the edge of the fabric, you cannot sew with pins inserted as you with a normal domestic zigzag machine. The best way without having to remove the pins.
is can do to baste the seam before you sew. Alternatively, you can save time by inserting the pins parallel with the edge and then stitch two or more pieces of fabric together width
Insert the pins at equal distances of about 5cm according to the fabric.
®
Insert the pins approx. 1.5—2.0cm apart, parallel to the raw edge taking into account the width of the presser foot.
—17—.
SEWING APPLICATIONS’
• Application
This machine is suitable for sewing the follo’ing:
One-piece dress (medium-and heavy-weight fabric)
• Blouse (light-weight fabric)
Shoulder
Yoke seam seam
Shoulder seam
Yoke seam
Sleeve insertion seam
Underarm seam
Waist seam
Facing edge
Side seam
Yoke seam
Underarm seam
Facing edge
Sleeve insertion seam
Side seam
Lower edge seam
• How to change presser foot
1. Removing presser foot.
2. Raise the foot, pull the one-touch lever toward you, and the foot will drop off.
3. Putting on presser
foot.
4. Center desired presser foot under shank. l.ower presser bar until the groove on the shank connects with small pin on the toot.
5. Gently push one-touch lever toward needle to release lever.
• How to remove shank
1. Keep the presser bar up, loosen the shank set screw, and the shank will drop
off.
2. When you replace the shank, tighten the set screw firmly with a screw driver.
—18—
CHANGING THE THROAT PLATE
WOR ROLLED OR NARROW HEM)
The machine comes with a standard overedge needle throat plate set to the machine.
Change the throat plate when sewing rolled overedges.
)
Lift the presser foot and release the presser foot.
Open the left cover. Turn the cutting width dial to move the knife all the way to the right.
Open the front cover. Loosen the throat plate screw and remove the throat plate. Place the rolled edge throat plate and tighten the screw.
f
Loosen the left needle set screw and remove the left needle.
) Open the left cover.
Turn the cuffing width adjustment dial to move the lower knife to the left end.
Close the front cover. Replace presser foot.
D Turn the handwheel toward you and set needle to
its
lowest position.
® Lower the presser foot, make sure that there is no extra space between the bottom of the presser foot and the throat plate.
*
Delicate adjustments may be necessary in accordance with the type of material. Make trial sewing and check. Better result is possible by adjusting the position of lower knife.
Standard overedge throat plate
Rolled hem throat plate
—19—
HOW TO MAKE NARROW OR ROLLED EDGE
Please make sure power is always off when replacing the parts and making adjustments.
To adjust tensln for rolled and narrow edges refer to table below for suggested combinations of material dnd thread. Proper thread tension differs with the type of fabric and the thickness and type of thread.
Adjustment of thread tension should be made each time you sew accordingly.
Important: 1. See page 19 for changing throat plate
2. Remove left needle (page 14)
Fabrics
3. The stitch length of rolled hemming should be set between 1. and 2.
Tension dial to be adjusted
Threads
Rolled hemming
• Spun polyester
No. 50
80
Narrow hemming
•
Spun polyester
No. 50
—
80
• Georgette Needle
Thread
• Lawn
•
Polyester continuous
No. 50
—
80
•
Polyester continuous
No. 50
-
80
• Crepe-de
• Broad cloth
• Rayon
-chine
Upper looper thread
•
Wooly
nylon
•
•
Wooly
nylon
Spun polyester
NO. 50
—
80
•
Polyester continuous
No. 50 80
• Spun Polyester
No. 50
80
•
Spun polyester
No. 50
—
80
• Voile etc.
Lower looper thread
•
Polyester continuous
No.50 —80
•
Polyhester continuous
No.50—80
Rolled edge tension settings
Narrow edge tension settings
Narrow hemming
Rolled hemming
—20—
__
DIFFERENTIAL FEED (DF-type only)
The differential feed prevents waving in seams in knitted such as synthetic fabrics.
Differential feed mechanism
There are two feed dogs one front and one rear. The distance each feed dog travels during one complete
two
feed dogs move independently arid the movement can be different.
C__
Differential feed ration I vs. O.8—2
Adjusting the differential feed
The differential feed can be adjusted by simply turning sewing.
Important: to the differential feed can be made while
When sewing without differential feed, the adjustment
“N”
position.
dial for the differential feed should be
set
on the adjustment diat
Stitch length dial
STRETCH
GATHER
—21—
Gathering
For perfectly flat seams
in
knits, the distance travell ed by the front feed dog should be greater than that of the rear feed dog. The front feed dog, therefore, feeds an amount of fabric which the rear feed dog can fake up behind the needle without stretching the fabric and without the slightest hint of movement between the two layers of fabric.
Stretching
To avoid any puckering
in
seams on closely woven fabrics or smooth nylon, the distance travelled by the rear feed dog must be greater fhan that of the front feed dog. The front feed dog, therefore, holds the fabric back so that the rear feed dog can take it up behind the needle without any puckering or movement between the two layers of fabric.
Pin tucking
Pin tucking
is
a useful decorative stitch for blouses and children’s wear.
1. Fold fabric with wrong sides together.
2. Adjust the plastic guide so that the stitches just overcast the folded edge.
3. bwer the presser foot and sew.
4. Sew as many rows as desired and press them to lay flat on one side.
Sewing in tape
The standard presser toot is equipped with a tape guide. The tape can same time to strengthen shoulder or side seams in garments made be sewn in at the from knits or stretch fabrics.
(USE 4—.5 mm WIDTH OF THE TAPE)
Tape guide
—22—
BLIND HEMMING
By changing the presser foot to “Blind Hem Presser Foot”, you can sew blind stitches with trimming fabric.
It produces a durable hem which is almost invisible on the right side of the article sewn. It is useful for sewing cuffs, trouser boffoms, pockets etc.
Se’ning
First sew a test sample on a scrap of fabric and adjust the seam guide and thread tension.
1. Fold hem up as desired, fold it back toward right side of the fabric. Leave I to 2 cm seam allowance to the right.
2. The plastic guide on the presser foot ensures even feeding of the fabric when blind hemming. This guide
is
adjusted by turning the screw.
3. Raise the presser foot.
4. With the wrong side up, place the fabric under the presser foot so that the plastic guide is just touching the folded edge.
5. Adjust the guide so that the needle pierces just the folded edge.
6. Lower the presser foot and sew hem, guiding fabric evenly along the plastic guide.
7. When hem is completed, open the fabric and press hem.
CORRECT THREAD TENSION
The upper and lower looper threads are crossed on the cut edge of fabric.
—23—
PROBLEMS AND CAUSES
• Before calling for service, check the information below.
Problem
Fabric does not feed.
Needle breakage.
Thread breakage.
Skipping stitches.
Stitches are irregular.
Fabric is puckering.
Problem with motor.
Cause
The presser foot pressure is too light.
Corrective action
Turn the presser foot pressure adjusting screw clockwise to increase the presser foot pressure.
Page
12
The needle is bent or the needle Replace with a new needle.
14 point is blunt.
®
The needle has been improperly Attach the needle correctly to the 14 attached to the needle bar, needle bar.
®
You have, forcibly pulled the fabric,
Lightly put your hand on the edges of the fabric while you are sewing.
©
Threading is wrong.
®
Thread tension is too tight.
Thread the machine correctly.
Decrease the thread tension.
6—7
9—li
®
The needle has been improperly Attach the needle correctly to the 14 attached to the needle bar.
needle bar.
®
Wrong needle is used.
Use correct needle.
14
©
The needle is bent or the needle Replace with a new needle.
point is blunt.
14
©
The needle has been improperly Attach the needle correctly to the
14 attached to the needle bar.
needle bar.
®
The machine has been improperly
Thread the machine correctly.
threaded.
®
Wrong needle is used.
Use correct needle.
6—7
14
©
©
Thread tension is not correct.
Cuffing space too narrow
Adjust thread lension.
Readjust cuffing space width
9—il
13
©
The needle thread tension is too Reduce the needle thread tension.
9—li tight.
®
The machine has been improperly
Re-thread the machine correctly.
threaded, or a thread has been
6—7 caught at some unnecessary point.
©
The motor produces noises.
®
The motor will not run at all.
®
Unusually large sparks are produced.
Consult your dealer
If above corrective actions do not solve your trouble, contact your dealer.
—24—
