Bayliner 1988 Motoryacht Owner Manual

 This manual has been prepared to assist you in the operation and
care of your Bayliner boat. While not intended as an all-inclusive
document designed to provide every detail, this manual can contribute
to the more effective operation of your boat.
Understanding your new boat and how it works is essential to your
boating enjoyment and safety. We recommend that you perform the
following steps:
1. Make certain that you receive a full explanation of all systems from
the dealer before taking delivery of your boat.
2. Read this manual thoroughly, paying particular attention to the
subjects of fueling, checking for fumes, starting, carbon
monoxide, alcohol stoves, loading limits, trim tabs,
recommendations for safety, and warranty.
3. Practice—all members of the family should be familiar with the
operation and systems of your boat.
4. Participate in a safe boating course. Call your local U.S. Coast
Guard for the time and place of their next class.
There is information in this manual related to the following Bayliner
boats:
2850 Contessa Sunbridge
2850 Contessa Command Bridge
3250 Avanti Sunbridge
3270 Motoryacht
3450 Avanti Sunbridge
3450 Tri-Cabin Motoryacht
3460 Trophy Convertible
3870 Motoryacht
Due to our ongoing commitment to product improvement, we
reserve the right to change, without notice or other obligation, the
specifications or information contained in this publication.
| Recommendations for Safety... eee, 4
Safety Equipment... EEE EEE 6
Tool Ch@st.….…..….….…rennenenenençençenennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn 6
Fueling Procedures....................eveecei erre 7
Fuel Capacity Table... Ree e rare 8
U eee rare 8
SEAMING. ...coi iii cee eee eres] 9
Before You Leave... ieee eee 10
Maneuvering......................eeeeeeiicer e nee e eee eee ee sin 10
Boat Performance....................e.emeninene ne e eran RER eran eee. 13
Boat Running Attitude.........................e..eiirieiee reee e a era 13
THM TADS... eee eee reer eee, 13
Steering Wheel PressuUr®e.…………….…..……rrrscnennmenneännnnnn 14
INStTUMENtS..…..….…......…rrcrrcrerassenanerrerrrrerererserra ra ran ner 14
Dual Station Operation... EEE 15
Diesel Engine Shut-Down..................eeee eee 15
OMPONENTS/SYSTEMS
Electrical System (12-Volt).....................ereeneriere re ere enero. 16
Electrical System (110-Volt AC)....................eeeeneeee e e 18
Generator......................reeiien erre earn ie errar EEE RER ea 18
Hot Water Heaters.........................ececcr e eee eee 19
Air Conditioning/Heating...........................2 e 19
Fuel Systems..........:....e..e..eeeiiee eee eee eee, 20
Shaft-Transmission Alignment......................m...m2 21
Shaft Log Stuffing Box Packing..............................eereire 22
Rudder Stuffing Gland....................... eee a arerenraaea ce een 23
Steering........................ecieriricce enero ee ere enero eeaocereees 23
Refrigerator.....................e.eeccccc eee REEL 23
Seawater Strainers......... OPT 24
Exhaust System... sara rene 24
Marine Head with Holding Tank... eee 24
Potable Water System.....................emiire EEE 25
Starter Motor... eee eee annnee 26
Bilge Blower.....................eei eee eee eee eee e sees 27
Bilge Pump................ rene nene eevee eee, 27
Running Lights.................e....eeeeeercemi eee eee eee 27
Alcohol Stoves................. nanas srar ar rar arcanes 28
Electric Stoves...............eeviiieiie e e arerre eevee 28
Aicohol/Electric Stoves.................eveeenirrer DDD 28
GENERAL MAINTENANCE AND REPAIRS
Bilges/Engine Compartment.........................evveiereree rre 29
Cabin and Topside Areas.........................e.ereevirrcerenene DD 29
HU... ce ccrsserannerranrarsanerran era nn ear een ans re sde rene secs es en ancre VE 31
STORAGE..................reeceernencecreeeernerreecerrccanrecce re ercer eee 33
NAUTICAL TERMS... csserensrrsnesenenentan enr a rer e RI 35
SP EE CIF IC A TIONS creer rae os 36
WIRING DIAGRAMS... A 37
WARRANTY ie 45
Prior to leaving on your first outing (or, for that matter, any outing)
there are certain items to check and activities to perform. Familiarize
yourself with your boat before leaving, and consider the following:
10.
Personal Flotation Devices:
One Coast Guard approved personal flotation device (PFD) of
suitable size is required for each person aboard a recreational boat.
New PFDs bearing Coast Guard approval are now identified as
Types |, N, II, or IV.
For boats sixteen feet (16') or over in length: One Type |, Il, or Ill
(wearable) for each person on board and one Type IV (throwable) in
each boat is required.
Always have children wear PFDs. Always check those devices
intended for young children for fit and performance in the water.
Never hesitate to have "all hands" wear lifesaving devices
whenever circumstances cause the slightest doubt about safety.
Do not overload or improperly load your boat. Maintain adequate
freeboard at all times. Consider the sea conditions, the duration of
the trip, the weather and the experience of the personnel. Do not
permit persons to ride on parts of the boat that were not designed
for such use. Bow riding and seat back or gunwale riding can be
especially hazardous.
Falls are the greatest cause of injury both afloat and ashore.
Eliminate tripping hazards wherever possible, make conspicuous
those that must remain, and require proper footwear to be used on
board.
Understand the meanings of navigation buoys, and never moor to
one. (It is a Federal offense.)
Know the various distress signals. A recognized distress signal
used on small boats is to slowly and repeatedly raise and lower the
arms outstretched to each side.
Storm signals are for your information and safety. Learn them and
be guided accordingly.
A special flag (red flag with white diagonal stripe) flown from a boat
or buoy means skin diving operations. Approach with caution and
stay clear by at least 25 yards.
Be especially careful when operating in any area where there might
be swimmers.
Watch your wake. It might capsize a small craft. You are
responsible for damage caused by your wake. Pass through
anchorages at minimum speed.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Obey the "rules of the road". Disregarding such rules is the
greatest cause of boating collisions.
Always have up-to-date charts of your area on board.
Keep an alert lookout. Serious accidents have resulted from failure
in this respect.
Always instruct at least one person on board in the rudiments of
boat handling in case you are disabled or fall overboard.
Consider what action you would take under various emergency
conditions such as man overboard, fog, fire, a damaged hull or
other bad leaks, motor breakdown, bad storm or collision.
If you ever capsize, remember that if the boat continues to float it is
usually best to remain with it. You are more easily located by a
search plane or boat.
Keep firefighting and lifesaving equipment in good condition and
readily available at all times.
Do not test fire extinguishers by squirting small amounts of the
agent. The extinguisher might not work when needed. Always
follow approved instructions in checking fire extinguishers.
Have an adequate anchor and sufficient line to assure good
holding in a blow (at least six times depth of water).
Boat hooks are valuable when docking or when needed to retrieve
objects (including people) overboard.
Keep electrical equipment and wiring in good condition. No knife
switches or other arcing devices should be installed in fuel
compartments. Allow ample ventilation around batteries.
Good housekeeping in your boat is important. Cleanliness
diminishes the probability of fire.
Know your fuel tank capacity and cruising range. If it is necessary to
carry additional fuel, do so only in proper containers. Take special
precautions to prevent the accumulation of fuel vapors in confined
spaces.
Before departing on a boat trip, you should advise a responsible
friend or relative about where you intend to cruise. Be sure that the
person has a good description of your boat. Keep them advised of
any changes in your cruise plans. Doing these things will enable
your friend or relative to tell the Coast Guard where to search for
you and what type of boat to look for if you fail to return. Be sure to
advise the same person when you complete your trip to prevent
any false alarms about your safety.
Your local U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary/Power Squadron offers a
Safe Boating Class several times a year. These are
comprehensive and generally of minimal cost to you. Call your local
U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadron Flotilla for the time
and place of the next class.
The following safety-related items should be considered as part of
your standard equipment:
1.
2.
3.
4.
9.
6.
7.
Fire extinguishers (located for easy access).
Personal flotation devices.
Fenders, lines and boat hook.
Flares (night and day type).
Flashlight.
Charts of intended cruising area.
First aid kit.
BW po
Ta Le Now
Assorted screwdrivers (Phillips and flat blade).
Pliers (regular, vise-grip, and water pump).
Wrenches (box, open-end, allen, and adjustable).
Socket set (metric and U.S. standard).
Hacksaw with spare blades.
Hammer.
Battery jumper cables.
Electrical tape.
Assorted fasteners.
. Gear grease and penetrating oil.
. Feeler gauges.
©
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Engine and accessories manual.
Propeller with fastening devices.
Propeller shaft packing material.
Spare shaft and strut.
V-belts.
Engine lubricating oil.
Transmission lubricant.
Fuel and oil filters.
Cooling pump impellers.
10. Fuel can.
11. Light bulbs.
12. Spare set of injectors for diesel engines, or spare set of spark plugs
and other ignition parts for gas engines.
The static attitude of your boat can be affected by many variables.
Optional equipment and loading of gear are the biggest contributors to
a boat's listing. After launching, any new boat can be adjusted. If your
boat lists to one side, store heavy items on the light side and light items
on the heavy side.
Other Ti
1. When commissioning a new boat, do not plan an extensive trip or
party until you have taken a shakedown cruise to make sure all
equipment on your boat is functioning properly and you are familiar
with its operation.
2. Use big fenders and fender boards, as they will best protect your
boat from floats, piers, and other boats.
3. Carry adequate line properly sized to your boat. We suggest at
least four 50' lengths of 1/2" nylon line for boats up to 34 feet and
four 60' lengths of 5/8" nylon line for boats over 34 feet.
The following procedures apply primarily to gasoline engine-powered
boats. However, by learning and using these steps, an extra margin of
safety will be realized when fueling your Bayliner yacht equipped with
diesel engines.
CAUTION! Fuel vapors are explosive and can become
trapped in the lower portions of a boat. While fueling,
all doors, hatches, and portlights should be closed.
1. Be sure that you are securely moored to the dock.
2. Turn off all equipment, including engines, generator, appliances,
bilge blower, lights, etc.
3. Extinguish all cigarettes, cigars or other items that may produce a
spark or flame.
4. Close all openings, including hatches, windows, doors, and
portlights.
>. Through-deck fittings are provided for fuel tank filling. Remove cap
and insert fuel supply nozzle, allowing the nozzle to maintain
contact with the fitting, thereby preventing possible static sparking.
6. After about 10 gallons have been pumped into the tank, inspect
the engine and tank area for signs of fuel leakage. Proceed with
fueling if nothing is detected.
7. On very hot days, allow for expansion. Do not fill the fuel tank
completely.
8. If, when filling the tank, you can't put fuel in at a reasonable rate,
check the fuel vent line to see that it's not kinked or plugged.
9. Replace the fill cap and wipe off any fue! spillage.
10. Open engine compartment and windows, doors, etc., and inspect,
visually and by smell, for fuel fumes or leakage. Any sign of fuel
leakage or indication of fumes should be investigated and
corrected prior to starting engine.
11. Operate bilge blower for at least four minutes prior to starting
engine. Leave blower on until underway and at cruising speed.
Model Fuel Capacity (Gallons)
2850 Contessa Sunbridge 120
2850 Contessa Command Bridge
3250 Avanti Sunbridge
3270 Motoryacht
3450 Avanti Sunbridge
3450 Tri-Cabin Motoryacht
120
205 (center line)
200 (100port/100stb)
205 (center line)
315 (190fwd/125aft)
3460 Trophy Convertible
304 (152port/152stb)
|
253 (190 fwd/63aft)
3870 Motoryacht (
Launching
1. Your Bayliner yacht may be equipped with a transom drain plug.
Make sure this plug is tightly in place.
2. Inspect the bottom of your new Bayliner and make a mental note of
all fittings below the waterline.
3. Once in the water, immediately board your boat and inspect the
compartments for signs of leakage.
4. If any leaks are noted, the boat should be removed from the water.
The selling dealer should be notified so the leaks can be repaired
before relaunching the boat.
Sta
The engine operating and maintenance manual furnished with your
boat describes pre-start and starting procedures. The following are
basic reminders and are not intended to cover every detail of
starting—we urge you to thoroughly read and understand your engine
manual.
1. Check lubricating and cooling level fluids.
2. Visually check for fuel, oil, coolant, and exhaust leaks.
WARNING: Gasoline vapors are highly explosive. To
prevent explosion and fire, check engine and fuel com-
partments, before starting, for fumes or accumulation
of fuel. Always operate blower for at least four minutes
before starting, during starting and when operating
below cruising speeds.
3. Check that seawater coolant intake valve (seacock) is open.
4. Check water separators (if your boat is so equipped) and drain as
required.
5. For gasoline-powered models, advance throttle fully to set the
automatic choke (for cold engine) and then pump the throttle lever
two to three times.
6. On boats so equipped, make sure the emergency engine
shutdown switch cap is in place and the lanyard is attached to the
operator.
7. With throttle in start position (approximately 1/4 throttle), start the
engine. (Note—the engine will not start unless the gear selector is
in the neutral position.)
8. Do not continuously operate the starter for more than 15 seconds
at a time. Allow at least three minutes for cooling between start
attempts.
9. For low temperature starting of diesel engines (below 14°F/-10°C),
use the preheater system. Push button and hold in for 15-30
seconds (do not exceed 30 seconds).
10. If the engine fails to start, wait one minute and try again (on gas
engines, pump the throttle only once).
11. As soon as the cold engine starts, set the engine speed at 1200
rpm for V8 engines (2000 rpm for 4-cylinder engines or 750-1200
rpm for diesels) and check oil pressure. Oil pressure will vary from
one engine to another, but it should come up immediately. If it
does not, turn the engine off!
12. With the engine running, the voltmeter should indicate a reading
between 12-14 volts.
13. Check steering operation by turning wheel full port and starboard
and observing your outdrive or rudder.
14. While the boat is still securely moored to the dock and engine is
idling at 600-800 rpm, advance the shift control to forward, to
reverse, and into neutral to check shifting operation.
Provided you have not encountered any problems, you are almost
ready to go. (If you did encounter problems, do not attempt to operate
your boat until they are corrected.) Before you leave, perform the
following steps:
1. Check the operation of equipment such as bilge pumps, running
lights, wipers, etc.
2. Instruct passengers in the use and location of flotation devices and
fire extinguishers.
3. Obtain a reliable weather forecast and plan accordingly for comfort
and safety.
4. Notify a responsible friend, relative, marine operator, or Coast
Guard of your cruise plans. Upon your return or a change in your
cruise schedule, notify that person in order to avoid unnecessary
concern.
5. Fill potable water tanks.
With all your pre-departure checks now completed, you are ready to
leave the dock.
Basic Maneuvering
Remember that all boats steer by the stern (the feeling is much like
steering your automobile in reverse). For example, when you turn the
steering wheel to the left, the stern of the boat will swing to the right as
the boat goes into a left turn. This is especially important to keep in
mind when docking and operating in close quarters with other boats.
There are no brakes on a boat. Stopping is accomplished by allowing
the boat to slow down (under 5 mph) and then putting the engine in
reverse. Gently increasing reverse power will allow you to stop the boat
10
in a very short distance. A boat does not respond to steering in reverse
nearly as well as it does when going forward, so do not expect to
accomplish tight turning maneuvers when backing up.
If your boat has twin propellers, you can engage one engine in
forward gear, and the other in reverse gear, and turn the boat
completely around in its own length if the rudder is left in the center
position. You can, of course, make such a turn in either direction. Port
engine forward and starboard engine in reverse spins you clockwise.
Starboard engine forward and port engine in reverse spins you
counterclockwise. You can accentuate the spin with full rudder in the
spin's direction.
{ N
3 | = <
RIGHT TURN LEFT TURN BACKING TO LEFT
Tum wheel to right — Tum wheel to laft — Tum wheel to left —
Stern will move to left. Stern will move to right. Stern will puli to left.
mE An
SINGLE DOCK MOORING
7 “= > O
Once you are away from the dock, devote some time to learning how
to maneuver.
Practice docking by using an imaginary dock.
Practice stopping.
When operating in close quarters or docking, all maneuvering should
be done at idle speed. Proceed with caution in congested areas.
Gradually increase your speed. Get used to the boat before any full
throttle operation.
o
=
©
Preparation:
Proper docking requires proper preparation. Start by making sure
you have adequate equipment, and that it is stowed correctly and ready
11
for use. Your dealer is the best source for the amount and type of
equipment you should carry.
Approaching the Dock:
When approaching a mooring area, lower your speed within a
reasonable distance to allow your wake to subside before it reaches
other boats or docks. As you get close to your moorage, check the
wind and any tide current action that may affect your maneuver and
make a conservative approach with these factors in mind. Try to use
the elements to your advantage. Allow them to carry the boat into the
dock. If there are high winds or strong currents, it is best to approach
the moorage from the lee side. With a mild current or little or no wind it
is best to approach from the windward side. When approaching, check
to see that all lines are attached to the cleats on the side that you will be
mooring and that fenders are lowered on that side. Be sure to check
that the fenders are hung at the proper height.
As you approach your mooring it is desirable to have one person at
the bow and one at the stern of the boat, each with a boat hook and a
mooring line attached to a cleat. Approach at idle RPM in forward at
approximately 45 degrees to the dock. When the bow is within a few
feet of the dock (starboard side), the stern can be brought alongside
the mooring by turning hard to port. Next, turn to starboard and at idle
RPM put the boat into reverse. This will stop the boat and bring the
stern even closer to the dock. These steps are reversed for docking to
port.
Mooring:
Attach lines to deck cleats by making a loop in one end, large enough
to pass through the hole in the base of the cleat and back over entire
cleat. The line now can be used to secure your boat. Lines may be
kept this way while running as long as they are coiled and cannot
become fouled in gear or props. In heavy sea conditions, all lines
should be removed from decks.
TIP: Tie up by running line from boat, around dock cleat, and back to
boat. This way you can untie without jumping from deck to dock and
back aboard. Just cast off one end and then bring the whole line on
board.
Leaving the Dock:
Be aware of wind, tide, current or other forces that affect your
direction when leaving the dock and account for this in your
maneuvering. Most maneuvering to and from a dock is best
accomplished at idle speeds.
Do not forget to release mooring lines and stow fenders.
When you are leaving a mooring on your starboard side and your bow
cannot be pushed away from the dock first, start forward with wheel to
starboard for two or three feet. Then shift to reverse with steering full to
port. Repeat if necessary to get the stern far enough away from the
dock so you can back clear of any other boats that may be moored
ahead of you. (Reverse wheel directions when leaving port docking.)
12
Boat speeds are affected by a great many factors. Some, such as
temperature and altitude, you cannot change, but some factors you
can:
1. Loading: Take only the necessary equipment with you. Keep
weight low in the boat and balanced.
2. Propeller: Keep it in good repair and at the correct pitch for your
particular situation. The factory standard equipment propeller may
not be the best for your particular boat and load conditions. If the
engine RPM at full throttle is less than the maximum rating, try a
prop of less pitch. If the engine RPM exceeds the maximum rating,
try a prop of greater pitch.
A slightly bent or nicked propeller wili adversely affect the
performance of your boat.
3. Weeds, barnacles and other growth: Keep your boat bottom clean.
When your boat starts "growing grass" it will slow down greatly.
1. If your boat runs with its bow too high at cruising speeds, the
following suggestions will help you lower the bow:
* Move weight forward in the boat.
* Adjust trim tabs. (See Trim Tab section below.)
+ Adjust thrust angle of your outdrive—reduce distance between
bottom of transom and drive unit.
2. If your boat runs with its bow too low at cruising speeds (usually
indicated by water coming off the hull way forward and steering
difficulty—veering off course), you can raise the bow by performing
the opposite of above.
Trim tabs are intended for corrections to boat trim on the port and
starboard axis with very minor changes in pitch or fore-and-aft attitude.
For major corrections, redistribute loads.
1. If tab position is unknown, put your tabs in the full bow-up position.
2. After power is applied and boat is cruising, push appropriate tab
button to level the boat on lateral axis. Several short touches of the
tab button are recommended. Allow the boat to react to the new
position of the trim tab after each touch. When installed under
manufacturer's recommendation, the port button on the trim tab
switch operates the starboard trim tab and vice versa.
13
Both tabs can be lowered slightly to lower bow. Forcing the bow
down with tabs will cause steering difficulty and a loss of efficiency.
When running in a following sea, run tabs in full bow-up position.
Sterndrive models can be adjusted so there is no pull on the wheel at
one given speed or trim angle. This is done by turning the trim tab on
the lower unit in the direction the wheel is pulling. Small adjustments
should be made until the steering has neutral torque at the speed you
desire. (We suggest using your normal cruising speed.) When running
faster or slower than this speed, a minimal amount of torque will be
present.
While under way, instruments should be checked frequently for
possible indications of trouble.
1.
14
Tachometer—A tachometer is an electrical instrument that
indicates engine revolutions per minute (RPM). The tachometer is
useful for monitoring engine speed to avoid exceeding the
maximum RPM rating. In addition, it can be used to detect
performance changes by comparing speedometer readings at
various RPMs.
Temperature Gauge—The temperature gauge indicates engine
coolant temperature by monitoring a signal from a sending unit
installed in the engine water jacket. When the gauge reads in the
danger area, shut off the engine and diagnose the problem. A
common cause of overheating is picking up a foreign object in the
seawater intake. Usually, raising and lowering your outdrive will free
it. Backing up in reverse gear, then pulling ahead in forward gear
for 10-15 feet can be helpful, too. On those twin engine powered
boats equipped with a hot water system, whereby the cooling
system of one engine is plumbed through the hot water tank to
heat freshwater, the temperature gauge for that engine will indicate
a different operating temperature than the other engine.
Oil Pressure Gauge—The oil pressure gauge indicates pressure by
monitoring a signal from a sending unit. When gauge reads in the
low pressure area, shut off the engine and diagnose the problem.
4. Fuel Gauge—The fuel gauge indicates fuel level. Since boats are
exposed to rough water conditions and varying trim, fuel gauges
may provide inaccurate readings at times. lt is always good to keep
track of your running time as a double check against an inaccurate
gauge.
Always start the engine at the station at which you will be operating
the boat. Remind everyone near the unattended control station to
KEEP HANDS OFF. When leaving one station to begin operating at
the other, bring the boat to a complete stop. Never leave the helm
while the boat is underway and assume that someone else has the boat
under control. If you are operating your boat at the bridge and you
encounter heavy sea conditions, bring your boat down to an idle, point
it into the sea and have bridge passengers move down to the cabin. №
sea conditions become very heavy, you should also leave the bridge
and operate your boat from the lower station. Children should be
required to wear life jackets.
1. Cool the engine gradually,” allowing it to idle in neutral for at least
five minutes.
WARNING: It is important to follow steps 2, 3, 4, and 5
in sequence to avoid the possibility of electrical
system damage.
N
To turn engine off, push the stop button.
After engine stops, turn the ignition key counterclockwise to the
"off" position.
Turn off DC ignition breaker switches.
Turn off the battery switch.
Close seawater intake valve.
Close fuel supply valves.
Carefully inspect engine and compartment for indications of oil,
fuel, water or exhaust leakage.
© NO OM
NOTE: Steps 6, 7, and 8 need not be followed for
short term shut-down (overnight). For long-term
*Gradual cool-down of a turbocharged engine is very
important!
15
Although Bayliner manufactures many different models of yachts, the
electrical systems on all models follow the same basic format:
1.
16
Battery:
Each battery is connected to a battery switch. Adjacent to the
accessory battery switch is a fuse marked "battery charger" that
provides excitation current to the starboard alternator through an oil
pressure switch on the starboard engine.
On 2850 models with single engines, one battery supplies the
engine and all 12-volt DC accessories. Installation of a second
switched battery is recommended and is easily accomplished by
your Bayliner dealer.
On 2850 models with twin engines, wiring is provided for two
batteries. One battery will provide power to the port engine only
and that engine will charge it. The other battery provides power to
the starboard engine and all 12-volt DC accessories installed. This
battery is charged by the starboard engine.
On model 3270, two batteries and battery switches are provided.
One battery provides power to both engines and 12-volt DC
accessories controlled from the switch panel at the helm stations.
This battery is charged by the port engine. The other battery
provides power to the remainder of the 12-volt DC accessories and
is charged by the starboard engine alternator. Field current for the
starboard alternator is obtained through a fuse marked "battery
charger" on the battery switchboard and controlled by an oil
pressure switch on the engine.
On the 3450, 3460, and 3870 models, three ON-OFF battery
switches and two batteries are provided. One battery is used for
starting and ignition on both engines and is charged by the port
engine. The other battery is used for accessories and is charged
by the starboard engine. The third battery switch is a crossover
switch between the start and accessory battery and is used to start
the engines if the start battery goes dead. The crossover switch
should be turned on only in emergencies. Leaving this switch ON
can drain all onboard batteries.
On 2850 models the condition of the battery can be read on the
voltmeter when the ignition is in the ON position. On models 3250
through 3870 the condition of the main starting battery can be read
on the voltmeter marked "ENGINE CIRCUIT" when the engine
battery switch and the port ignition switch are in the ON position.
The condition of the accessory battery can be read on the
voltmeter marked "ACCESSORY CIRCUIT" when the accessory
battery switch is in the ON position. The starboard ignition switch
does not have to be ON to read the accessory battery condition.
With the engine not running, voltmeter readings in the 11.5 to 12.5-
volt ranges are considered normal. Readings in the 10 to 11.5-volt
range indicate a marginal charge condition. Readings below 10
volts indicate a serious discharge condition.
With the engine running (over 1500 rpm) voltmeter readings of 13
to 14 volts are considered normal. Readings below this indicate a
severely discharged battery or a nonfunctioning charging system.
Check the battery water level regularly by removing the caps. If the
zinc plates are exposed, add distilled water. Corroded battery
terminals can also let you down. Clean them with baking soda and
water, and coat them with a preservative or a light film of grease. Be
sure all battery connections are tight. When storing the boat, it is
best to remove the battery, give it a full charge, and store it inside
away from extreme temperatures.
Battery Charger:
If a battery selector switch is installed on 2850 models, the battery
charger output should be reconnected to the common terminal of
this switch or no charging will occur when the switch is OFF.
On 3250 - 3870 models the battery charger operates when the
110-volt dockside power is connected and the battery charger
circuit breaker is ON. On those models equipped with a generator,
the battery charger also operates when the AC source selector
switch is on "Generator", the generator is running, and the battery
charger circuit breaker is ON. The battery charger will charge the
batteries regardless of the battery switch position. The battery
charger has two isolated outputs and charges both batteries
simultaneously, as required. On 3870 and 34' diesel models the
battery charger has three isolated outputs.
Fuse and Circuit Breakers (12-Volt):
On 2850 models the engine and accessory circuits are protected
by a large circuit breaker located on the engine. In addition, the
power tilt motors on all engines are protected by a fuse. Fuse
blocks on these models are located behind the instrument panel
(at both stations on bridge model boats). The fuses are marked as
to which accessory they protect. AGC 10-amp fuses are used on all
standard equipment accessories. Consult electrical schematics
located in this manual for more information.
Electrical power for trim tabs is taken directly off the battery and is
fused at the battery with a 20-amp in-line fuse.
Some equipment, such as the stereo, CB radio, and depth
sounder, are individually fused. Literature specific to this
equipment should be referred to for information.
On models 3250 through 3870, the engine circuits are protected
by a large circuit breaker located on the engines. The accessory
circuits are separate from the engine circuit and are protected by a
large circuit breaker located at the main battery switches. The
17
ignition circuits are protected by an in-line fuse at the ignition switch
or in the main fuse block.
The fuses or breakers for these models, except model 3270, are
located on the face of the DC Master Panel. Model 3270 has two
fuse blocks behind the instrument panel (at least until mid 1987).
The main power supply for the accessories is protected by a large
circuit breaker which is located at the main battery switch. Also
located at the main battery switch are in-line fuses for the accessory
battery charging circuit and for the automatic bilge pump. On the
3250 the blower and engine drive lift controls are fused in-line
behind the instrument panel and receive power from the engine
circuit.
Optional accessories are fused at the instrument panel with the
exception of the power windlass which has its own control switch
panel and is protected by a circuit breaker at battery switches.
It AC
The AC system is energized by either shore power or the on-board
generator (optional on some models).
Shore power receptacles are either 30- or 50-amp and appropriate
power cords are furnished. Since not every shore installation has 30-
amp service, we recommend that 15- and 20-amp adapters be
purchased.
When connecting to shore power, turn off main circuit breakers.
Always attach the cord to the boat first; then attach the cord to the
shore outlet, thereby avoiding accidental dropping of a "hot" cord into
the water. Correspondingly, remove the end at the dock outlet first.
After connection to shore power, check "dockside polarity" indicators
before turning on main circuit breakers.
Whether using shore power or the generator, the simultaneous
operation of several 110-volt accessories can result in an overloaded
circuit. It might be necessary to turn off one accessory while operating
another.
All models with a 110-volt receptacle in the head are equipped with a
ground fault interrupter to protect users from electric shock. This
device will also protect other labeled outlets.
Generato
The literature package supplied with your boat has a very complete
operator's manual for your generator. We urge you to read that manual
prior to operating your generator, and to observe the following:
18
1. Follow instructions in the operator's manual for pre-start checks and
break-in procedures.
2. For gas generators, be sure to operate the blower for at least four
minutes before starting.
3. For the diesel generator which is standard on the 3870 and
optional on the 3270, 3450 (Tri-Cabin Motoryacht) and 3460
models, follow the instructions included in the literature package.
When starting the generator, it is important to continue depressing
the preheat switch until the oil pressure reaches running pressure.
Two or three seconds should be sufficient.
4. Never operate the starter for more than 30 seconds. If generator
does not start, wait at least 30 seconds before another attempt.
5. In addition to servicing the filters attached to the generator, any
separate filter/separators should be serviced as indicated by the
instructions included in your literature package.
6. The coolant mixture installed at the factory consists of equal parts
water and antifreeze.
7. The seawater intake valve must always be open during generator
operation, and the seawater strainer should be checked frequently
for debris.
On all models the hot water heater is connected to the 110-volt
power system. On those models equipped with freshwater cooling,
the coolant from the closed engine cooling system is circulated
through the hot water tank for heating of potable water. Heaters must
be kept full of water to avoid damage to the 110-volt heating elements.
They should also be drained (power turned off) when the possibility of
freezing exists.
On boats equipped with optional air conditioning, both heating and
cooling are controlled at the same panel.
To operate the system, proceed as follows:
1. Be sure the seawater inlet valve is open and 110-voli panel circuit
breaker switches are OFF.
2. Set the control switch at each location to OFF.
3. Turn on main circuit breaker on 110-volt panel.
4. Turn "Thermostat" fully clockwise for cooling or fully
counterclockwise for heating.
5. Set fan speed control on "high" position.
19
10.
Turn the control knob to "start". This energizes the fans and the
seawater pump. Check the overboard discharges to be sure that
water is flowing through the condensing units.
Turn the control knob to "run". The compressor will start to cool or
heat according to the setting of the thermostat.
To set the thermostat, allow sufficient time for the unit to heat or
cool the area to the desired temperature. When the area is
sufficiently heated or cooled, turn the thermostat knob slowly
toward the center position until it "clicks" once. The thermostat is
now set to maintain a constant temperature.
Select a fan speed desired. When operating on the heat cycle,
allow the unit to run on low fan for 5 to 15 minutes until it begins to
heat well. Then increase fan for efficient heat output. On the
cooling cycle, use any fan speed desired. Keep in mind, however,
that the lower the fan speed, the less capacity the system has.
To turn the system off, turn the system switch on the switch panel
to OFF. Do not use the circuit breaker switches on the 110-volt
panel to turn the system off or on.
20
CAUTION: It is very important that the fuel system be
inspected thoroughly at the time it is first filled and
then at each subsequent filling. For your safety and
the safety of your passengers, the "Fueling"
instructions of this manual must be followed.
Fuel Fills and Vents:
Fuel fills are located either on the aft deck or on the side decks and
are marked "Fuel" or "Gas". Fuel vents are normally located in the
hull or transom below and in the same general area as the fill. If you
experience difficulty filling the fuel tank, check to see that the fuel
fill and vent lines are free of obstructions and kinks.
Antisiphon Valves:
As required by the U.S. Coast Guard, the fuel systems on all gas
powered boats are equipped with an antisiphon valve. This valve is
an integral part of the barb fitting on the fuel tank to which the
neoprene fuel line attaches. The valve is spring-loaded and is
opened by fuel pump pressure. These valves will prevent gasoline
from siphoning from the fuel tank in the event of a fuel line rupture.
NOTE: If an engine running problem is diagnosed as
fuel starvation, the antisiphon valve should be
checked. In the event the valve is stuck or clogged it
should be cleaned or replaced with the engine off.
Under no circumstances should it be removed except
in an emergency.
3. Fuel Filters:
All fuel tanks installed by Bayliner are equipped with a fine mesh
screen filter on the fuel pick-up tube in the tank. In addition, when
supplied by the motor manufacturer, an additional filter is installed
on the engine. Fuel filters should be checked periodically to see
that they are clean and free of debris.
4. On those models equipped with two fuel tanks, the fuel lines from
these tanks are run to a manifold system with valves. If the boat is
equipped with a generator, there is also a valve on the manifold for
the generator fuel line. Under normal conditions, the boat should
be run with the main valves open and, if so equipped, the
crossover valve closed. If for some reason one of the tanks runs
dry, the valve to that tank can be shut, and both engines run off the
tank with fuel. When running two engines off one tank, RPMs
should be reduced.
CAUTION: Avoid the storage or handling of gear near
the fuel lines, fittings and tanks.
5. Diesel Fuel:
The diesel fuel systems utilized in Bayliner boats are similar in many
ways to the gas system. Diesel engine operation requires a return
fuel line from the engine to the tank. Thus, the fuel system has two
lines between the engine and the tank instead of one. The diesel
fuel tanks are not fitted with antisiphon valves. Fuel filters are
utilized in every diesel installation. It is very important that the filters
be checked and cleaned regularly.
Make sure that your fuel suppliers are reputable and can be relied
upon to furnish clean, proper, high quality fuel. Also, once you have
found such suppliers, keep your tank as full as possible with their fuel.
Then, if you are forced to add to the tank with a potentially poor quality
supply, the portion of poor quality fuel will be minimized.
Diesel fuel of ASTM grade 2-D is recommended. The minimum
cetane value is 40 (45 for cold temperature operation), and the
maximum sulfur content is 0.5%. If sulfur content exceeds 0.5%, oil
changes should be performed twice as frequently as indicated in the
engine manual.
Air in the fuel supply system can stop an engine or severely restrict
performance. Should air be introduced into your fuel lines, refer to
your engine manual for detailed instructions on "bleeding".
Consult your dealer or local marina concerning fuel additives
intended to prevent fungus or other growth in your fuel tanks.
Alignment between your engine transmission output shaft and the
propeller shaft is very critical. Although this alignment has been
21
performed at the factory, it should be checked again after the boat has
been in the water for 48 hours. Alignment inspection should be
performed as routine maintenance (after initial 30 hours of operation,
then every 60 hours) and whenever unusual noise or vibration is
noticed. To insure proper alignment when the boat has been launched
after a haulout or dry storage, wait for 48 hours before making final
adjustments.
Proper alignment is usually achieved by moving the engine. We
recommend that alignment be performed by an experienced marine
mechanic. However, checking alignment is relatively simply when
these procedures are followed:
1. Remove the flange bolts at the transmission-to-shaft coupling and
slide the shaft aft until the flanges are about 1/4" apart.
2. Rotate the shaft to see if there is obvious "wobble" of the shaft
flange, indicating shaft damage.
3. Move the shaft up and down and from side to side to determine, as
closely as possible, the central position where the shaft is normally
located. At this position, the transmission flange should align with
the shaft flange without moving the shaft to either side or raising it
more than 1/8". If this is not the case, a misalignment condition
exists.
4. Move the shaft flange into contact with the transmission flange.
Check for gap between flange faces by attempting to insert a .003"
feeler gauge at the top, bottom and each side. Repeat this opera-
tion after rotating the shaft flange 1/4 turn (3 times). Misalignment
is indicated when the feeler gauge can be inserted easily at any
point.
The propeller shaft emerges from the bottom of the boat through an
opening called the shaft log. The shaft stuffing box is connected to the
shaft log by a short length of special flexible hose. Packing rings are
compressed around the shaft by the packing nut. The "Stuffing Box"
prevents excessive amounts of water from leaking around the shaft and
into the boat.
Normal wear can cause stuffing box leakage to increase. It usually
can be stopped by loosening the locknut, tightening the packing nut
slightly, and then resetting the locknut tightly. Do not overtighten.
Bear in mind that a slight leak (up to 10 drops per minute while
running) helps to lubricate the packing and is therefore desirable.
When stuffing box leakage becomes excessive, even after following
the above steps, packing replacement can be performed as follows:
1. Remove boat from the water.
22
2. Loosen locknut and back packing nut off the sleeve. Remove old
packing.
3. Wrap new packing around shaft and cut rings with a razor blade at
approximately 30 degrees to long axis of shaft. Stagger ends of
each ring and insure that rings are fully seated in packing nut
resess.
4. Tighten packing nut by hand only until resistance of packing
contacting the stuffing box is felt. Tighten locknut securely.
5. When initially launched, the packing must be allowed to leak at a
rate of about 5 to 30 drops a minute, as it will expand and seal from
water contact and friction heat of the turning shaft. Failure to allow
this leakoff will result in packing burnout after a short period of
running.
Aug
As in the case of the shaft log stuffing box, the rudder stuffing gland
is part of the assembly where the rudders emerge from the bottom of
the boat.
It is very similar to the propeller shaft stuffing box and will require the
same maintenance. Since it obviously does not receive the same wear
as the propeller shaft, repacking is seldom required. This shaft stuffing
gland should not leak water.
Depending on the model you own, your steering system may be
either manually or hydraulically actuated. With hydraulic steering you
may notice a rhythmic pulsing when turning the wheel. This is a
standard characteristic of the hydraulic pump and not a malfunction.
Also, when coming off a hardover position, a resistance may be felt,
followed by a distinct sound. This is a normal situation resulting from
the release of the check vaive.
The fluid reservoir for hydraulic steering systems is usually located in
the aft end of the engine compartment. Following instructions in your
literature package and on the reservoir, check fluid level and pressure
regularly.
The refrigerator used by Bayliner operates on 110-volt AC and 12-
volt DC power. When the 110-volt system is not operating, the
refrigerator operates on 12 volts. When an AC source is supplied, by a
generator or by dockside power, the refrigerator automatically switches
to 110-volt.
The refrigerator is the heaviest continuous draw on the 12-volt DC
system. If no other 12-volt accessories are used, the refrigerator can
draw a battery dead in less than 24 hours. For this reason it is
23
recommended that when operating on 12 volts, the cold setting on the
refrigerator should not be set higher than position two. It is also
advisable to turn the refrigerator off at night. If you are going to be out
more than one day and cannot connect to dockside, you should plan to
run your generator or engines to maintain a charged battery.
Seawater strainers should be periodically checked for debris.
Depending on the boat model, there may be strainers for engines, for
the generator, for the air conditioning system (option), and for the
seawater washdown pump.
Your exhaust system is designed to keep water out of the engines in
most conditions. However, care should be taken not to anchor stern to
sea, and the engines should not be shut off if the seas are too high.
Always use good seamanship and consider the seas before anchoring
or shutting off the engines.
Check all of the clamps after the first 20 hours; then continue to
check exhaust system clamps periodically.
The marine head with holding tank is designed so waste may be
flushed into the holding tank or, for those traveling where regulations
permit, flushed overboard. On models larger than 28 feet, this is
accomplished by routing the head discharge through a "Y" connector
to the holding tank or overboard. There are valves in each of these
lines. To flush waste overboard, the valve to the holding tank must be
closed and the through-hull seacock (provided on some models) must
be open. To flush into the holding tank, close the seacock and open
the valve to the tank.
On 2850 models the head is flushed into the holding tank, from
which the discharge is routed either through a macerator and
overboard, or to the deck pump-out fitting.
It is suggested that overboard valves and seacocks normally be left
closed to prevent inadvertent overboard discharge. To empty the
holding tank, the boat must be taken to a pump-out station.
To operate the marine head, open the seacock on the seawater
intake. Before using, pump some water in to wet the bowl. After using,
pump until thoroughly cleaned. Pump a few more times to clean lines.
If excess waste should cause water to rise in bowl, stop pumping until
water recedes.
If at any time you are unable to pump water into the bowl, the
probable reason is debris in the pump diaphragm. To remove such
blockage, shut inlet seacock and dismantle pump, which generally
24
is held together with six screws. The design is simple and the problem
will be obvious when pump body is split open.
To winterize toilet, shut off intake valve. Pump until dry. Remove
drain plug in base and pump again to remove all water. Do not use
antifreeze. The inlet seacock should be closed while the boat is
underway or when the boat is left moored in the water.
Cap. Location Location Location Location
Model (Gal.) of Hold. of Inlet of Dis- of
Tank Seacock charge Y -valve
thru Hull
2850 13 stb side head stb side
Contessa aft berth compart- midship
Sunbridge access ment
2850 13 port side beneath beneath
Contessa beneath cabin sole cabin sole
Command dinette thru access thru access
Bridge hatch hatch
3250 30 stb side under aft stb side stb side
Avanti engine well berth aft aft access
Sunbridge
3270 13 beneath beneath beneath beneath
Motoryacht salon salon salon salon
stb side stb side stb side stb side
access access access access
3450 30 stb side under aft stb side stb side
Avanti engine well berth aft aft access
Sunbridge
3450 36 beneath by stb beneath beneath
Tri-Cabin shower & engine & v-berth v-berth
Motoryacht stb side beneath & aft of & outbd
aft port strm head of head
3460 34 beneath beneath beneath beneath
Trophy shower port V-berth V-berth
Convertible stateroom
3870 36 beneath beneath behind beneath
Motoryacht forward galley galley galley
cabin sole sole stb side sole
The water filter should be inspected frequently and cleaned as
required.
25
Sinks and showers ("gray water") drain overboard. Sinks above the
waterline are gravity drained, and showers below the waterline are
pump drained. Drain pumps should be turned OFF after the shower is
drained.
Water tanks (excluding those on 2850 models) have level indicators.
Water tanks should be topped-off at every opportunity to avoid the
possibility of running short of potable water.
When your boat is to be left unattended for an extended period of
time, it is advisable to pump the water tanks dry to prevent stored water
from becoming stagnant and distasteful.
Model Location System Water Fill Capacity
Location (gallons)
2850 Contessa V-berth demand bow deck 30
Sunbridge pump
2850 Contessa under cabin demand stb deck 30
Command sole pump midship
Bridge midship
3250 Avanti engine room demand stb deck 50
Sunbridge sole pump midship
3270 Motoryacht under cabin demand stb deck 75
sole pump midship
3450 Avanti engine room demand stb deck 50
Sunbridge sole pump midship
3450 Tri-Cabin under floor demand stb deck 62
Motoryacht midship pump midship
3460 Trophy under floor demand stb deck 62
Convertible midship pump midship
3870 Motoryacht under galley demand stb deck 86
sole pump midship
Pressure type (demand) systems operate at any time the electrical
switch is ON. When not using the boat, or when tank is dry, be sure the
switch is OFF. On those models with showers, the shower sump switch
is located in the head.
The engine starter motor is designed to deliver high horsepower for
only very short intervals. Avoid operation for more than 15 seconds at
one time. Due to its high horsepower this motor builds up considerable
26
heat and can be permanently damaged with prolonged use. If it does
not operate, check the battery charge and all direct wiring for shorts or
loose connections. If excess bilge water is allowed to accumulate, the
starter can be damaged. Automatic bilge pumps are recommended for
boats left in open moorage. They are standard on 3270, 3450 and
3870 models.
The bilge blower removes fumes from the engine compartment and
draws fresh air into the compartment through the deck vents.
To ensure fresh air circulation, the bilge blower is to be used before
starting the engine, during starting, and while the boat is operating
below cruising speed. Operate the blower for at least four minutes
before starting the engine.
WARNING: Operation of the blower is NOT A GUARANTEE
that explosive fumes have been removed. If you smell
any fuel, shut off all electrical accessories and engine and
investigate immediately.
The electric bilge pump supplied with your Bayliner is of an impeller
type. If bilge water is present and the pump motor is running but not
pumping, check to see if it is clogged by debris. If it is clear but still
does not pump, check the discharge hose for kinks or a collapsed area.
NOTE: The Federal Water Pollution Control Act prohibits
the discharge of oil or oil waste into or upon the navigable
waters and contiguous zone of the United States if such
discharge causes a film or sheen upon, or discoloration
of, the surface of the water, or causes a sludge or
emulsion beneath the surface of the water. Violators are
subject to penalty of $5000.
Running Lights
Although the night lights or navigation lights supplied with your
Bayliner are of top quality, failure may occur for a variety of reasons:
You may have blown a fuse.
The bulb may be burned out.
The bulb base may be corroded.
A wire may be loose due to vibration or mis-stowed gear.
К © № —
(overnight) will result in a dead battery. Be conserva-
tive in the use of battery power.
Prolonged operation of cabin interior lights
27
Carefully read and follow manufacturer's operating instructions
supplied with your stove, and observe the following:
1. Use only denatured alcohol labeled specifically for marine use.
Do not operate the stove while underway.
Do not fill stoves near an open flame or hot object.
All alcohol spilled should be wiped up prior to lighting the stove.
Do not put cooking utensils on stove until burners are lit and
functioning properly.
CAUTION: On pressure type alcohol stoves, flare-up
may occur during preheating, particularly if burner
valve is opened before preheating is completed. If
flare-up occurs, shut off burner and restart.
с к оо №
Carefully read and follow manufacturer's operating instructions
supplied with your stove. The breaker switch must be on in order to
operate the stove.
Again, carefully read and follow the manufacturer's operating
instructions supplied with the stove. If using the alcohol stove, it is
recommended that the 110-volt electrical breaker switch is off.
1. Command bridges:
1000 pounds maximum for model 3870.
700 pounds maximum for all other models (2850 - 3460).
2. Hardtops: 100 pounds maximum.
3. Transom platforms: 250 pounds maximum.
4. Auxiliary outboard motor (transom platforms with molded outboard
brackets): 10 horsepower maximum.
In addition to instructions found elsewhere in this manual and in the
literature specific to certain components, the following information is
provided for general maintenance and repair.
Because conditions vary widely in different areas, and since
frequency and type of use can differ greatly between owners, intervals
for maintenance are not stated herein. Common sense should
determine the frequency of maintenance.
28
1.
Pump bilges dry and remove all loose dirt. Be sure all limber holes
are open. If there is oil in the bilge and the source is not known,
look for leaks in engine oil lines or engine gaskets. Oil stains are
best removed by use of a bilge cleaner available from your dealer or
a marina. Do not use flammable solvents.
Check all wiring to be sure that it is properly supported, that
insulation is intact, and that there are no loose or corroded
terminals. If there are corroded terminals, they should be
thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper or replaced. Tighten securely
using a lock washer and spray with WD-40 or similar preservative.
Inspect the entire fuel system (including fill lines and vents) for any
evidence of leakage. Any stains around joints could indicate a leak.
Try a wrench on all fittings to be sure they are not loosening, but do
not overtighten. Clean fuel filters and vent screens. Operate all
valves to be sure they are in good condition.
Inspect the entire bottom for evidence of seepage, damage or
deterioration, paying particular attention to hull fittings, hoses, and
clamps. Straighten kinked hoses and replace any that do not seem
pliable. Tighten loose hose clamps and replace those that are
corroded. Tighten any loose nuts, bolts, or screws. Operate
seacocks to be sure they are in good condition.
Refer to your engine operating manual for details of maintenance.
Wipe off engines to remove accumulated dust and grease. If a
solvent is used, make sure it is nonflammable. Go over the entire
engine and tighten nuts, bolts, and screws, including the mounts.
Inspect the wiring on the engine and clean and tighten terminals.
Inspect belts and tighten if needed. Replace any belt that is
cracked or frayed. Clean and lubricate battery terminals; fill cells
with distilled water as needed.
Test all electrical equipment and appliances to make sure they
operate properly. Inspect all wiring for proper support, sound
insulation and tight terminals. Pay particular attention to portable
appliance cords and plugs.
Inspect and operate heads, basins, showers, sinks, and freshwater
system, including tank. Check and operate water pumps, including
shower pump and sink drain pumps. Check all water lines and
connections for leaks and make sure all connections are secure.
Check bow rails, ladders, and grab rails for loose screws, breaks,
sharp edges, etc., that might be hazardous in rough weather. In-
ventory and inspect life jackets for tears and deterioration. Check
your first aid kit to make sure it is complete. Check signalling equip-
ment. Inspect anchor lines, mooring and towing lines and repair or
29
30
replace as required. DO NOT stow wet lines or they may mildew
and rot.
Salt and brackish water are capable of etching and damaging
window glass. Keeping windows clean is the best preventive
measure you can take. When cleaning, flush with plenty of
freshwater.
When cleaning plexiglass, which is being used with much more
frequency because of its safety and weight, caution should be
exercised because of its tendency to scratch.
First, use generous amounts of water to wash off as much dust as
possible. Use your bare hands with plenty of water to dislodge any
caked dirt. Then use a soft grit-free cloth or clean soft sponge with
a detergent or nonabrasive soap. Dry with a clean damp chamois,
using a blotting action. Never use a glass-cleaning solution or a
duster, as these will scratch the surface. Remove any grease or oil
with kerosene or hexane. DO NOT use solvents such as acetone,
benzine, carbon tetrachloride, fire extinguisher fluid, dry cleaning
fluid, or lacquer thinner since they will attack the surface.
To keep teak looking fresh, it should be treated with teak oil at least
twice a year (more often if exposure is severe). If the teak is in
particularly bad condition, the teak oil should be rubbed in using
220 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper.
Use nearly any of the metal cleaners on the market today to spruce
up hardware. After a good cleaning, a coat of paste wax will add
greatly to its luster. All metal fittings, including dash panel,
instruments and hardware, should be sprayed with a rust inhibitor
similar to WD-40. If not maintained on a regular basis, stainless
steel railings and fittings will discolor.
A variety of high quality fabrics have been used in the construction
of your boat. Proper care and cleaning of all fabrics will contribute
to their long life.
We suggest that, prior to cleaning any fabric, you test your clean-
ing solution and method on a hidden or inconspicuous area.
Fabric tops, windshield covers and component covers, as well as
vinyl upholstery can be cleaned using a regular vinyl cleaner. Vinyl
cleaners may be obtained in grocery or auto parts stores. To
prevent rainwater seepage at the seams a coating of "Scotch
Guard" can be applied to the seams on the inside of the vinyl.
Mildew can occur if your boat does not have adequate ventilation.
Heat alone will not prevent mildew. If mildew does occur, it can be
removed using a solution of hot water and "Clorox" (one cup of
"Clorox" to one gallon of hot water). Brush into affected area, let sit
for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse with fresh water. If at all possible, the
vinyl top parts of your boat should be stored indoors in a fairly warm,
dry place. This will greatly extend the life of the material.
Dry cleaning should be considered for interior fabrics other than
vinyl. |
Y our marine instruments have been designed and constructed of
the best possible materials and with proper care will give you years
of trouble free operation.
When instruments are exposed to a saltwater environment, salt
crystals may form on the bezel and the plastic covers. These salt
crystals should be removed with a soft damp cloth; never use
abrasives or rough dirty cloths to wipe plastic parts. Mild household
detergents or plastic cleaners can be used to keep the instruments
bright and clean.
The finish on a fiberglass boat is similar to that of an automobile and
will respond to the same system of care and cleaning. Car waxes
and cleaners are often used to maintain a sparkling finish. Also, a
variety of polishes and cleaners for fiberglass are now on the
market. Some are very good and we suggest you experiment with
different brands to determine what you like best.
Almost unavoidable during the life of your boat is damage to the
gelcoat or colored surface. This is not as serious as you might
think. Repair is not costly and can be done by the novice.
Scratches: If the scratch does not penetrate the gelcoat surface,
use automotive rubbing compounds. Dampen a soft rag and apply
rubbing compound with plenty of elbow grease. The scratch may
not disappear completely; however, its noticeability will decrease.
Gouges and Chips: To repair, simply obtain "patch paste" from
your Bayliner dealer and follow this recommended procedure:
* Clean area to be repaired of wax and oil. Acetone is a good
solvent.
* Use a small portion of patch paste on a piece of cardboard and mix
thoroughly with the catalyst (two or three drops of catalyst to a
tablespoon of paste).
+ Apply to pit, chip, or gouge with a single edge razor blade to
match the surface contour of the area being repaired. It is better
to have an excess than not enough of the paste.
> Allow to harden thoroughly. In most climates, one to two hours
should be sufficient.
* Shape the patch as desired, using fine wet sandpaper.
Finish using automotive rubbing compound in the same manner
as for scratches.
WARNING: Teak oil, acetone and catalyst are
hazardous materials and should be used only in well
ventilated areas. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
31
3.
32
There are many factors that will come into play in determining if and
how often it will be necessary for you to paint the bottom of your
boat. First of all, it is necessary for you to understand that the
bottom paint on boats is designed to slowly dissolve to prevent the
retention of marine growth. This fact is generally not understood,
but it is unusual to find a boat bottom that does not need repainting
after a season's use.
As necessary, usually once a year, your boat should be pulled from
the water, scrubbed and repainted. It is not always necessary to
repaint the bottom each time it is scrubbed, but no bare spot
should be allowed to remain.
Our recommended procedure for repainting the bottom is as
follows:
» Prepare the bottom by sanding, cleaning and fairing as required.
° №15 imperative that the new paint be applied over a perfectly dry
surface. Fiberglass hulls should never be hauled, painted and
relaunched in the same day, since this does not allow sufficient
time for the moisture which has been absorbed into the old paint
film to completely dry out. Generally, 24 -36 hours of drying time
is required.
o |f factory applied, the hull below the waterline has been originally
painted with either "Pettit" Bioguard (#1265) or "International" Tri-
Lux (#66). When repainting, use either of these two paints or a
paint that is compatible.
IMPORTANT: Blistering can occur in the gelcoat finish
below the waterline on boats that are permanently
moored. To protect against this possible occurrence
Bayliner recommends that antifouling bottom paint be
applied. This should include three coats of Inter-
national Paint Company's Interlux 404/414 barrier coat
primer and two coats of Tri-Lux bottom paint or an
equivalent. It is best and least expensive to have
antifouling paint applied prior to first launching.
Whenever your boat is out of the water you should check all metal
parts for stray current corrosion. Stray current corrosion, or
electrolysis, can be prevented several ways. The following are the
most common causes and the simplest cures:
« Wiring may leak a certain amount of electricity. Keep a clean dry
bilge.
° А poorly grounded zinc anode: Check ground wire, clean
contact surfaces.
* The zinc anode may be deteriorated beyond effectiveness:
Replace at 50% loss.
* Do not use a copper-based bottom paint, as it can cause
electrolysis on some metal parts. If your boat is permanently
moored, we recommend you contact someone in your area
specializing in corrosion control and have them check your boat in
its moorage to see that it is properly protected.
Also, while your boat is out of the water, propellers, rudders, and
shafts should be inspected for damage.
5. Every attempt has been made to equip your boat with a propeller
that will optimize performance. Variation in altitude and load can
impact performance. Your boating needs may dictate a propeller
change. Your Bayliner dealer can help you in the selection of
propellers better suited to your needs.
Rudders should be parallel such that the difference between the
center of the leading edges and trailing edges is less than 1/4-inch.
Adjustment is performed at the transom, inside the engine
compartment.
6. Flapper valves (such as on scuppers) should be checked often to
see that they are pliable and operating properly to provide sealing
action.
1. If your boat is to be stored out of the water, it is extremely important
that its hull is properly supported to avoid permanent hull shape
distortion. If stored inside, it should be in a well-ventilated building.
2. If covered storage isn't available, then a temporary winter cover is
recommended. A proper winter cover should keep the weather off
the boat, but still provide adequate ventilation. Wrapping a boat in
a tight plastic cover can do more damage than good. Dampness
and lack of air circulation provide ideal conditions for the fungi that
cause mildew and dry rot.
3. Remove batteries, fill cells to proper level, and charge. Store in a
warm place and periodically (once per month) charge.
4. Refer to your engine manual for storage instructions.
5. Drain the freshwater tanks and system by first opening all faucets
and operating the water pump (be sure that the hot water tank
power switch is turned off). Operate the pump until empty, draining
water accumulated in the pump to avoid damage due to freezing.
6. Flush each head several times. If stored in saltwater, close
seacock, add fresh water to bowl and allow to stand for a day or
more to dissolve accumulated salt. With seacock closed, flush until
pumped dry. Pump out holding tank.
7. Fuel tanks should be filled so there is little air space, thereby
minimizing condensation.
8. Refer to your engine manual for storage procedures related to the
engine seawater cooling system and batteries.
9. Thoroughly clean your boat. If possible, remove cushions,
mattresses, blankets, towels, and other items that can hold
33
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
moisture and cause mildew. Such items left on board should be
positioned for maximum air circulation—stand mattresses and
cushions on edge.
Defrost and dry out refrigerator and freezer; prop doors open.
Leave drawers and locker doors open.
Clean hardware and coat with rust inhibitor.
Lubricate steering mechanism and throttle control in engine
compartment.
Close seacocks.
Provide as much heat and ventilation for interior spaces as is safe
and practical.
We hope these preventive measures will help make a spring get-
ready easier. Should you have any questions, your Bayliner dealer is
anxious to provide assistance.
34
BOW:
CHINE:
DRAFT:
FATHOM:
FREEBOARD:
GUNWALE:
HATCH:
HEAD:
HELM:
KEEL:
KNOT:
LEE:
MAYDAY:
PORT:
PORTLIGHT:
SCUPPER:
STANCHION:
STARBOARD:
STERN:
STERNDRIVE:
TRANSOM:
WINDWARD:
| On either side of the boat.
To the rear or near the stern.
The width of the hull.
The lowest portion inside a boat (in a fiberglass
boat, generally the underdeck and lower portion of
the engine compartment).
The forward portion of the boat.
The intersection of the side and bottom of a V-
bottom boat.
Vertical distance from the waterline of boat to the
lowest point of the boat.
A measurement of six feet generally used to
measure water depth.
Vertical distance from deck to waterline.
The point where hull and deck meet.
A covered opening in the deck.
Toilet or toilet room.
Steering wheel. |
The lowest external portion of the boat.
Nautical mile per hour; nautical mile is 6,076 ft.;
land mile is 5,280 ft.
Opposite from which the wind blows.
International spoken distress signal for
radiotelephone.
To the left or left side of the boat.
A hinged window in the boat's cabin or hull.
An opening in a deck or cockpit permitting water to
drain overboard.
A fixed, upright post used for support (of rails or
lifelines).
To the right or right side of the boat.
The rear of the boat.
Inboard/outboard unit.
The vertical part of the stern.
The direction from which the wind is blowing.
35
Prop/Rotation Max RPR
2850 Contessa Sunbridge
260 OMC 15-12 X13 R 4600
335 OMG 15X17 R 4800
230 OMC (Twin) 15X17 L/R 4600
2850 Contessa Command Bridge
335 OMC 15X17 R 4800
230 OMC (Twin) 15X17 L/R 4600
3250 Avanti Sunbridge
260 OMC (Twin) 15X 17 L/R 4600
230 OMC (Twin) 15X17 L/R 4600
3270 Motoryacht
225 USM (Twin) 16 X16 L/R 4400
135 USM (Twin) 17 X17-1/2 HSL/R 3000
3450 Avanti Sunbridge
330 USM (Twin) 17 X18 L/R 4200
3450 Tri-Cabin Motoryacht
255 USM (Twin) 18 X19 L/R 4400
330 USM (Twin) 17 X18 L/R 4200
3460 Trophy Convertible
255 USM (Twin) 18 X19 UR 4400
330 USM (Twin) 17 X18 L/R 4200
220 USM (Twin) 20 X 20 L/R 3000
3870 Motoryacht
175 USM (Twin) 20X22 L/R 3000
36
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45
Bayliner warrants to the original purchasers of its boats operated
under normal, noncommercial use in the U.S. or Canada that it will repair
or replace any parts found be be defective in factory materials or
workmanship within one year from date of retail delivery.
This warranty does not apply to: (1) Engines, drive trains, controls,
props, batteries or other equipment or accessories carrying their own
individual warranties; (2) Engines, parts or accessories not installed by
Bayliner; (3) Window breakage or leaks; gelcoat finish, blisters, cracks
or crazing; (4) Hardware, vinyl tops, vinyl and fabric upholstery, plastic,
metal, wood or tape trim; (5) Any Bayliner boat which has been altered,
subjected to misuse, negligence or accident, or used for racing pur-
poses; (6) Any Bayliner boat which has been overpowered according
to the maximum horsepower specifications on the capacity plate
provided on each Bayliner outboard boat; (7) Any Bayliner boat used
for commercial purposes; (8) Any defect caused by failure of the
customer to provide reasonable care and maintenance.
Othe
THERE IS NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY ON THIS BOAT. TO
THE EXTENT ALLOWED BY LAW:
1. Any implied warranty of merchantability is limited to the duration of
this written warranty.
2. Neither Bayliner nor the selling dealer shall have any responsibility
for loss of use of the boat, loss of time, inconvenience, commercial
loss or consequential damages.
3. Some states do not allow limitations on how long any implied
warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you. Some
states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may
not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
46
In order to comply with Federal regulations, it is essential that your
warranty registration card be submitted within 30 days of delivery of
your boat. Return of this card is a condition precedent to warranty
coverage. Before any warranty work is performed, we require that you
contact your selling dealer to request warranty assistance.
We require that you return your boat, at your expense, to your selling
dealer or, if necessary, to the Bayliner factory. You will be responsible
for all transportation, haulouts and other expenses incurred in returning
the boat for warranty service.
Bayliner Marine Corporation
PO Box 24467
Seattle, WA 98124
47