Austin MG Metro Service and Repair Manual

Austin/MG Metro
Service and Repair Manual
A K Legg
LAE MIMI
and Finn Deacon
Models covered
All Austin and MG Metro models including Turbo, Vanden Plas, automatic (inc. 1991 model), Van and special/limited edition
models; 998 cc and 1275 cc
Does not cover revised Rover Metro range introduced May 1990
(718-224-1Y15)
© Haynes Publishing 1996
A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information storage
or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the
copyright holder.
Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset
BA22 7JJ, England
Haynes Publishing
Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England
ISBN 1 85960 145 6
Haynes North America, Inc.
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Editions Haynes, S.A.
147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France
Contents
LIVING WITH YOUR METRO
Introduction
Page
0•4
Acknowledgements
Page
0•4
Safety First!
Page
0•5
Jacking and vehicle support
Page
0•6
Towing
Page
0•6
Wheel changing
Page
0•7
Identifying leaks
Page
0•8
Jump starting
Page
0•9
Roadside Repairs
Weekly Checks
Introduction
Page 0•10
Underbonnet check points
Page 0•10
Engine oil level
Page 0•11
Coolant level
Page 0•11
Screen washer fluid level
Page 0•12
Brake fluid level
Page 0•12
Clutch fluid level
Page 0•13
Electrical system
Page 0•13
Battery electrolyte level
Page 0•14
Wiper blades
Page 0•14
Tyre condition and pressure checks
Page 0•15
Lubricants and fluids
Page 0•16
Capacities
Page 0•16
Tyre pressures
Page 0•16
MAINTENANCE
Routine Maintenance and Servicing
Maintenance schedule
Page
1•1
Maintenance procedures
Page
1•4
Servicing Specifications
Page 1•15
Contents
REPAIRS & OVERHAUL
Engine and Associated Systems
Engine in-car repair procedures
Page
2A•1
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
Page
2B•1
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Page
3•1
Fuel and exhaust systems
Page
4•1
Engine electrical systems
Page
5•1
Clutch
Page
6•1
Manual gearbox
Page
7A•1
Automatic transmission
Page
7B•1
Final drive
Page
7C•1
Driveshafts
Page
8•1
Braking system
Page
9•1
Suspension and steering
Page
10•1
Bodywork and fittings
Page
11•1
Body electrical systems
Page
12•1
Wiring Diagrams
Page 12•16
Transmission
Brakes and Suspension
Body Equipment
REFERENCE
Dimensions and Weights
Page REF•1
Conversion Factors
Page REF•2
Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification
Page REF•3
General Repair Procedures
Page REF•4
Tools and Working Facilities
Page REF•5
MOT Test Checks
Page REF•7
Fault Diagnosis
Page REF•11
Glossary of Technical Terms
Page REF•18
Index
Page REF•23
0•4
Introduction
The Austin Metro was first introduced in October 1980 and was
initially only on sale to the UK market, export sales to the European
market following in early 1981.
The 998 cc and 1275 cc engines are fitted, with low compression
and economy versions available.
The body is of computer-based design and is assembled and
welded by computer-controlled robots. The “A-Plus” engine and
gearbox assembly is similar to that fitted to the Mini range, although it
is much improved, with durability and economy prime considerations.
Drive is through the front wheels and the engine/gearbox unit is fitted
transversely across the front of the car.
The most significant design characteristics are bolt-on front wings,
self-cleaning distributor contact points, fully closed crankcase
ventilation system, front-mounted aluminium radiator, dual circuit
braking system, and Hydragas suspension. Instrumentation is
comprehensive and includes a seat belt warning lamp, brake pad wear
warning lamp, and handbrake warning lamp.
Later additions to the range include a luxurious Vanden Plas version,
sporty MG and MG Turbo versions, and 1.0 and 1.3 Vans. The range
from 1985 includes 5-door as well as 3-door versions.
Your Metro Manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best from your car. It
can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be
done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide
information on routine maintenance and servicing and give a logical
course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it
is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On
simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage
and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important,
a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must
charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence
so that even a novice can do the work.
Its arrangement
The manual is divided into Chapters, each covering a logical subdivision of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections,
numbered with single figures, e.g. 5; and the Sections are divided into
numbered paragraphs.
It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a
detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. The reference
numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section
and the paragraph within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means
that the illustration refers to Section 3, and paragraph 2 within that
Section.
There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual, as well as
a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its
individual contents list.
References to the “left” or “right” of the vehicle are in the sense of a
person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.
Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anticlockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise.
Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications
and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into
our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
Metro 1.3 HLS
Metro Vanden Plas
MG Metro Turbo
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the
illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to
Rover for the supply of technical information. Sykes-Pickavant Limited
provided some of the workshop tools. Special thanks are due to all
those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they
do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or
publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions
from, the information given.
Safety First!
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Fire
Asbestos
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.
0•5
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
A few tips
DO
DON’T
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.
0•6
Roadside repairs
Jacking and vehicle support
The jack provided with the vehicle is
designed primarily for emergency wheel
changing, and its use for servicing and
overhaul work on the vehicle is best avoided.
Instead, a more substantial workshop jack
(trolley jack or similar) should be used.
Whichever type is employed, it is essential
that additional safety support is provided by
means of axle stands designed for this
purpose. Never use makeshift means such as
wooden blocks or piles of house bricks, as
these can easily topple or, in the case of
bricks, disintegrate under the weight of the
vehicle. When jacking up the car with a trolley
jack, lift under the widest points of the
subframe (see illustration). To raise both
wheels at the same time use a 36 in (914 mm)
length of square steel tubing placed beneath
the subframes with a central spigot to fit the
jack. Never jack up the car beneath the
suspension arms. To support the car, place
axle stands under the jacking points beneath
the sills or under the widest points of the
subframe.
If removal of the wheels is not required, the
use of drive-on ramps is recommended.
Caution should be exercised to ensure that
they are correctly aligned with the wheels, and
that the vehicle is not driven too far along
them so that it promptly falls off the other
ends, or tips the ramps.
Jacking and support points
1 Jacking brackets
2 Front jacking points (servicing)
3 Rear jacking points (servicing)
Towing
Provided a fault has not developed in the
gearbox or final drive, the car may be towed
on its four wheels using either lashing eye
located on the front subframe. The lashing
eye located beneath the left-hand rear
underbody is intended for use on a
transporter only, and should not be used for
towing another vehicle (see illustration).
On automatic transmission models always
check that the engine oil level is correct
before towing the car. Do not tow the car at
speeds greater than 30 mph (50 km/h) or for
a distance of more than 30 miles (50 km). If
these conditions cannot be met, or if
transmission damage is suspected, the car
must be towed with the front wheels clear of
the ground.
Rear lashing eye - not to be used for towing
Roadside repairs
0•7
Wheel changing
To change a roadwheel, remove the spare
wheel and tool kit from the well in the rear
compartment (see illustration). Apply the
handbrake and chock the wheel diagonally
opposite the one to be changed. Make sure
that the car is located on firm level ground.
Lever off the hub cover (see illustration) and
slightly loosen the wheel nuts with the
spanner provided. Raise the jack and insert
the peg in the nearest jacking point to the
wheel being removed (see illustration). Using
the handle provided, raise the jack until the
wheel is free of the ground (see illustration).
Unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the
wheel, then remove the wheel finisher if fitted.
Fit the finisher to the spare wheel and fit the
wheel on the studs. Fit and tighten the wheel
nuts with their tapered ends towards the
wheel. Lower the jack, then finally tighten the
wheel nuts and refit the hub cover. Remove
the chock, and refit the wheel and tool kit to
the rear compartment.
Spare wheel compartment
Levering off the hub cover
Body jacking point
Jacking the car
0•8
Roadside repairs
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown
rearwards by the passage of air under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.
Warning: Most automotive oils
and fluids are poisonous. Wash
them off skin, and change out of
contaminated clothing, without
delay.
The smell of a fluid leaking
from the car may provide a
clue to what’s leaking. Some
fluids are distinctively
coloured. It may help to clean the car
carefully and to park it over some clean
paper overnight as an aid to locating the
source of the leak.
Remember that some leaks may only
occur while the engine is running.
Sump oil
Oil from filter
Gearbox oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
...or from the base of the oil filter.
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends of the driveshafts.
Antifreeze
Brake fluid
Power steering fluid
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors on the steering rack.
Roadside repairs
Jump starting will get you out
of trouble, but you must correct
whatever made the battery go
flat in the first place. There are
three possibilities:
The battery has been drained by
repeated attempts to start, or by
leaving the lights on.
1
The charging system is not working
properly (alternator drivebelt slack
or broken, alternator wiring fault or
alternator itself faulty).
2
3
1
0•9
Jump starting
When jump-starting a car using a
booster battery, observe the following
precautions:
4 Make sure that the booster battery is
4 Before connecting the booster
4 If the battery is being jump-started
the same voltage as the discharged
one in the vehicle.
from the battery in another vehicle,
the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH
each other.
battery, make sure that the ignition is
switched off.
4 Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is
switched off.
4 Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of
automatic transmission).
The battery itself is at fault
(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).
Connect one end of the red jump lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the flat
battery
2
Connect the other end of the red lead to
the positive (+) terminal of the booster
battery.
3
Connect one end of the black jump lead
to the negative (-) terminal of the
booster battery
4
Connect the other end of the black
jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the
engine block, well away from the
battery, on the vehicle to be started.
5
Make sure that the jump leads will not
come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the
engine.
6
Start the engine using the booster
battery, then with the engine running at
idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in
the reverse order of connection.
0•10
Weekly checks
Introduction
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;
M Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems.
Battery-related
faults
are
particularly common, and a quick check on a
regular basis will often prevent the majority of
these.
M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when your
brakes don't work properly. Checking the level
regularly will give advance warning of this kind
of problem.
M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Underbonnet check points
A
B
Oil level dipstick
Engine oil filler cap
C
D
Coolant expansion tank cap
Brake fluid reservoir
E
F
Windscreen washer reservoir
Battery
Weekly checks
0•11
Engine oil level
Before you start
4 Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
If the oil is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
The correct oil
1
The engine oil level is checked with a
dipstick that extends through the dipstick
tube on the side of the cylinder block and into
the sump at the bottom of the engine.
2
3
4
Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
withdraw it again.
Modern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants and Fluids”).
Car Care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault Finding”).
l Always maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick, which should be between the
upper (“MAX”) mark and lower (“MIN”) mark.
Approximately 0.5 litre of oil will raise the level
from the lower mark to the upper mark.
Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage . Add the
oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
frequently. Avoid overfilling (see “Car Care”).
Coolant level
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
1
The coolant level varies with the
temperature of the engine. When the
engine is cold, the coolant level should be as
shown. When the engine is hot, the level may
rise slightly above the “MAX” mark.
Car Care
l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding
coolant should not be necessary on a regular
basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is
likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all
hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or
wetness, and rectify as necessary.
2
If topping-up is necessary, wait until the
engine is cold. Slowly turn the expansion
tank cap anti-clockwise to relieve the system
pressure. Once any pressure is released, turn
the cap anti-clockwise unti it can be lifted off.
l It is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
3
Add a mixture of water and antifreeze
through the expansion tank filler neck
until the coolant reaches the “MAX” level
mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far
as it will go until it is secure.
0•12
Weekly checks
Screen washer fluid level
Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold
weather - which is when you are likely to need
it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will
freeze during cold weather. On no account use
engine antifreeze in the washer system - this
could discolour or damage paintwork.
1
2
Early models have separate reservoirs for
the windscreen and tailgate, being
located on the left-hand front of the engine
compartment and the left-hand rear of the
luggage compartment
3
Later models with front and rear washers
have a combined reservoir in the lefthand front of the engine compartment. Models
with windscreen washers only, have a single
reservoir.
1
The brake reservoir is mounted on the
right-hand side next to the air filter. The
“MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the
side of the reservoir. The fluid level must be
kept between the marks.
2
If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the
area around the filler cap with a clean rag
before removing the cap.
3
4
On all MG Turbo models, a combined
reservoir is mounted in the left-hand rear
of the luggage compartment
Brake fluid level
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
master cylinder reservoir will
drop slightly as the brake pads wear
down, but the fluid level must never be
allowed to drop below the ‘MIN’ mark.
Safety first
l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to
inspect the reservoir. The system should
be drained and refilled if dirt is seen in the fluid
(see Chapter 9 for details).
Carefully add fluid avoiding spilling it on
surrounding paintwork. Use only the
specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types
of fluid can cause damage to the system. After
filling to the correct level, refit the cap
securely, to prevent leaks and the entry of
foreign matter. Wipe off any spilt fluid.
Weekly checks
0•13
Clutch fluid level (if applicable)
Warning: Brake and clutch
hydraulic fluid can harm your
eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and
pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it
absorbs moisture from the air
which can cause a dangerous loss
of braking effectiveness.
For improved access,
remove the air cleaner as
described in Chapter 4
Safety First:
l The need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.
Before you start:
4 Park the vehicle on level ground.
4 The engine should be turned off.
1
The clutch master cylinder (if fitted) is
located next to the brake master cylinder.
Unscrew the filler cap and top-up the clutch
master cylinder to the bottom of the filler neck
with hydraulic fluid.
Electrical system
4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.
4 Visually check all wiring connectors,
harnesses and retaining clips for security, and
for signs of chafing or damage.
1
2
If a single indicator light, brake light or
headlight has failed it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer
to Chapter 12 for details.
If both brake lights have failed, it is possible
that the brake light switch above the brake
pedal needs adjusting. This simple operation
is described in Chapter 9.
If more than one indicator light or
headlight has failed it is likely that either a
fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the
circuit (refer to “Electrical fault-finding” in
Chapter 12).
On early models, the fuses are located behind
the switch panel on the right-hand side of the
facia. Access is gained by removing the two
screws from the switch panel, and pivoting the
panel downwards.
If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall
or garage door and operate
the lights. The reflected light should
show if they are working properly.
3
Later (1985-on) models have a fusebox
located below the right-hand side of the
facia. Remove the cover by twisting the
retainers using a coin.
To replace a blown fuse, simply prise it out. Fit
a new fuse of the same rating, available from
car accessory shops.
It is important that you find the reason that the
fuse blew - a checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.
0•14
Weekly checks
Battery
Caution: Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
“Safety first” at the start of this manual.
4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered with
a zinc-based primer, then painted.The exterior
of the battery should be inspected periodically
for damage such as a cracked case or cover.
4 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5.
4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see “Roadside Repairs”.
4 If the battery is of maintenance-free type, it
is not possible to check the electrolyte level.
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.
1
The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The
electrolyte level may be checked and if
necessary topped up. If the battery is of
standard or low-maintenance type, check that
the level of electrolyte is approximately 15 mm
above the tops of the cell plates. If necessary
top-up the level, using only distilled or
demineralised water.
Check the tightness of battery clamps (A)
to ensure good electrical connections.
You should not be able to move them. Also
check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed
conductors.
3
4
If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small wire
brush, then refit them. Accessory stores sell a
useful tool for cleaning the battery post ...
2
... as well as the battery cable clamps
Wiper blades
1
Check the condition of the wiper blades;
if they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, wiper blades should be renewed
annually, as a matter of course.
2
To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
fully away from the glass until it locks.
Swivel the blade through 90°, press the
locking tab(s) with your fingers, and slide the
blade out of the arm's hooked end. On
refitting, ensure that the blade locks securely
into the arm.
Weekly checks
0•15
Tyre condition and pressure
It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear (“rotating” the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is completely
effective, you may have the expense of
replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that
the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and
clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
“kerbing” whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.
New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the whole
car, the rear wheels could be out of balance.
Wheel balancing should be carried out by a
tyre dealer or garage.
Tread Depth - visual check
Tread Depth - manual check
Tyre Pressure Check
1
Alternatively tread wear can be monitored
with a simple, inexpensive device known
as a tread depth indicator gauge.
2
3
Shoulder Wear
Centre Wear
Uneven Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.
The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
The band positions are indicated by a
triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).
Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.
Tyre pressures are shown on the next page.
4 Tyre tread wear patterns
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
0•16
Lubricants, fluids, capacities and tyre pressures
Lubricants and fluids
Engine/gearbox (transmission) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension grease points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carburettor piston damper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake and clutch fluid reservoirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 (pre August 1983)
or 10W/40 (August 1983-on)
Multi-purpose lithium based grease
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40
Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 166 DOT 3 or SAE J1703C
Capacities (approx.)
Engine/manual gearbox oil (without filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter (manual gearbox) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine/automatic transmission oil (without filter) . . . . . . . .
Oil filter (automatic transmission) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cooling system (including heater) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel tank:
(early models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8.5
0.6
8.8
1.0
8.5
pints (4.8 litres)
pint (0.3 litres)
pints (5.0 litres)
pint (0.6 litre)
pints (4.8 litres)
6.6 Imp gals (30 litres)
7.8 Imp gals (35 litres)
Tyre pressures
Pressures (cold) - psi (bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
135 SR 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
165/70R 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
165/60 HR 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
150/65 R315 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
155/70 SR 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
165/65 HR 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
160/65 R315 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
185/55 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front
32 (2.2)
32 (2.2)
28 (2.0)
30 (2.1)
28 (2.0)
28 (2.0)
28 (2.0)
29 (2.0)
Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make
supplier for correct pressures if necessary.
Rear
28 (2.0)
26 (1.8)
28 (2.0)
28 (2.0)
32 (2.2)
28 (2.0)
26 (1.8)
29 (2.0)
or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or
1•1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Contents
Air filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Antifreeze (coolant) concentration check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Antifreeze (coolant) renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Automatic transmission selector check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Battery terminal check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Brake line and flexible hose check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Carburettor vent filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Clutch adjustment and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Clutch fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Contact breaker points renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Drivebelt check (and renewal) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Driveshaft rubber gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Engine idle and fast idle adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Front brake pad and rear brake lining check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Fuel filter renewal (Turbo only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Handbrake adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Hinge and lock lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Hydragas units check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Ignition check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Ignition timing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Maintenance procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Oil filler cap renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Steering, suspension and shock absorber check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
1 Maintenance schedule
The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you will be carrying out the work yourself. These are
the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the
manufacturer for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle
in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these
procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because
it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your
vehicle.
If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven
frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more
frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.
Always road test your car after servicing.
1
1•2
Maintenance schedule
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
- whichever comes first
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months (continued)
m Refer to “Weekly Checks”
m
m
m
m
Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or
6 months - whichever comes first
In addition to the previous Section, carry out the following:
m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3).
m Clean the magnetic drain plug (Section 3).
m Check the carburettor piston damper and top-up if necessary
(Section 15, paragraph 2).
m Check the operation of the transmission selector (automatic
models only) (Section 4).
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
Check the brake pad warning indicators (Section 24).
Check the rear brake linings and drums for wear (Section 24).
Check the steering rack unit for security and damage (Section 25).
Check the steering joints and arms for wear and damage
(Section 25).
Check the steering gaiters for splits and leakage (Section 25).
Check the suspension joints and mountings for wear and
damage (Section 25).
Grease the front and rear suspension pivots (Section 25).
Check the Hydragas units and lines for leaks (Section 26).
Check the handbrake operation and adjust if necessary
(Section 27).
Lubricate the handbrake linkages and cables (Section 27).
Check, and if necessary adjust, the front wheel alignment
(Section 28).
Road test (Section 29).
Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or
12 months - whichever comes first
In addition to the previous Section, carry out the following:
m Renew the air cleaner element (Section 5).
m Renew the spark plugs (Section 6).
m Renew the fuel line filter (Turbo only) (Section 7).
m Renew the carburettor vent filter (where fitted) (Section 8).
m Check the crankcase ventilation system (Section 9).
m Check the condition of the battery and clean the terminals
(Section 10).
m Check the antifreeze concentration (Section 11).
m Check the cooling system and hoses for leaks (Section 12).
m Check and adjust the contact breaker points (Section 13).
m Check the alternator and water pump drivebelt; renew and
retension if necessary (Section 14).
m Check and adjust the valve clearances (Chapter 2A).
m Check and adjust the engine idle speed and carburettor mixture
(Section 15).
m Check, and if necessary adjust, the ignition timing (Section 16).
m Check the fuel supply system for damage, deterioration and
leaks (Section 12).
m Check the clutch hydraulic pipes for leaks (Section 12).
m Check the driveshaft gaiters for splits and leakage (Section 17).
m Check, and adjust if necessary, the clutch return stop clearance
m
m
m
m
m
m
(Section 18).
Check the exhaust system for leaks and security (Section 19).
Check the door and bonnet locks for operation (Section 20).
Check the seat belts for operation and damage (Section 21).
Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 22).
Check the brake line and flexible hose (Section 23).
Check the front brake pads and discs for wear (Section 24).
Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or
18 months - whichever comes first
In addition to the 6000 miles (10 000 km) Section, carry out the
following:
m Renew the brake fluid (Section 30).
m Renew the clutch fluid (Section 31).
Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or
2 years - whichever comes first
In addition to the 12 000 miles (20 000 km) Section, carry out the
following:
m Drain the cooling system and flush it, then refill with new
antifreeze solution (Section 32).
m Renew the oil filler cap (Section 33).
m Renew the distributor contact points (Section 34).
m Renew the alternator drivebelt (Section 14).
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or
3 years - whichever comes first
In addition to the 18 000 miles (30 000 km) Section, carry out the
following:
m Renew the brake fluid and all the fluid seals and flexible hoses
in the brake hydraulic circuit (Section 30).
Maintenance - component location
1•3
Under bonnet view of MG Metro 1300
1 Battery
2 Starter motor solenoid
3 Anti run-on valve
4 Brake hydraulic reservoir
5 Carburettor damper cap
6 Air cleaner vacuum motor
7 Expansion tank filler cap
8 Windscreen washer reservoir
9 Oil filler cap
10 Engine oil dipstick
1
View of the front underside of a typical
vehicle
1 Steering gear
2 Tie-rod end
3 Front suspension lower arm
4 Brake pad wear sensor wiring
5 Disc/caliper
6 Engine/transmission oil drain plug
7 Front subframe mounting
8 Oil filter
9 Front lashing eye
10 Anti-roll bar
11 Brake flexible hydraulic hoses
12 Driveshaft
13 Front subframe
14 Front exhaust system
15 Gearchange rods
16 Gearchange remote control housing
1•4
Maintenance procedures
View of the rear underside of a typical
vehicle
1 Rear lashing eye
2 Rear Hydragas unit
3 Handbrake cable
4 Rear subframe
5 Fuel tank
6 Intermediate silencer
7 Exhaust mounting
8 Brake rigid hydraulic line
9 Fuel supply pipe
10 Charging valve for Hydragas units
11 Rear suspension radius arm
12 Rear exhaust system and silencer
Maintenance procedures
1 Introduction
1 This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2 The
Chapter
contains
a
master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover
that many of the procedures can - and should be grouped together, because of the particular
procedure being performed, or because of the
close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated
components to one another. For example, if
the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust
can be inspected at the same time as the
suspension and steering components.
5 The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all the
Sections relevant to the work to be carried
out, then make a list and gather all the parts
and tools required. If a problem is
encountered, seek advice from a parts
specialist, or a dealer service department.
overhaul work (Chapter 2B) is carried out first.
4 The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
2 Intensive maintenance
1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2 It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2A, Section 1) will
provide valuable information regarding the
overall performance of the main internal
components. Such a test can be used as a
basis to decide the extent of the work to be
carried out. If, for example, a compression
test indicates serious internal engine wear,
conventional maintenance as described in this
Chapter will not greatly improve the
performance of the engine, and may prove a
waste of time and money, unless extensive
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 10).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”).
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 14).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 6).
e) Inspect the distributor components and
HT leads - as applicable (Chapter 5).
f) Check the condition of the air cleaner
filter element, and renew if necessary
(Section 5).
g) Renew the fuel filter, if fitted (Section 7).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 12).
i) Check the engine idle speed and mixture
settings - as applicable (Section 15).
5 If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
a)
b)
c)
d)
Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
Check the fuel system (Chapter 4).
Renew the distributor cap, points,
condenser and rotor arm - as applicable
(Chapter 5).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads - as
applicable (Chapter 5).
Maintenance procedures
1•5
6000 Miles (10 000 Km) / 6 Months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
and vehicle support”). Whichever method is
chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains
level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is
at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn.
Position the draining container under the drain
plug, then remove the plug completely. If
possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the
sump while unscrewing it by hand the last
couple of turns. Recover the sealing washer
from the drain plug (see illustrations).
1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most
important
preventative
maintenance
procedures that can be undertaken by the DIY
owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted
and contaminated, which leads to premature
engine wear.
2 Before starting this procedure, gather all the
necessary tools and materials. It is a good idea
to renew the drain plug washer each time you
replace the engine oil. Also make sure that you
have plenty of clean rags and newspapers
handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine
oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and
more built-up sludge will be removed with it.
Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust
or any other hot parts of the engine when
working under the vehicle. To avoid any
possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself
from possible skin irritants and other harmful
contaminants in used engine oils, it is
advisable to wear gloves when carrying out
this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked
up and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6 Move the container into position under the
oil filter. It is located at the front of the engine
at the side of the block.
3.3a Location of engine/gearbox oil drain
plug - manual gearbox
3.3b Location of engine/transmission oil
drain plug - automatic transmission
As the plug releases from the
threads, move it away
sharply so the stream of oil
issuing from the sump runs
into the container, not up your sleeve!
3.7b Removing the oil filter cartridge
Manual gearbox models
7 On these models the filter is a cartridge
type. Using an oil filter removal tool if
necessary, slacken the filter initially, then
unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see
illustrations). Discard the old filter. Clean the
oil filter head.
8 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter
firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Automatic transmission models
9 Automatic models use a canister with an
internal disposable element (see illustration).
With these models unscrew the centre bolt on
the canister. Empty the oil from the canister
into the container and discard the filter. Clean
the area around the filter mounting.
10 Insert the new element in the bowl. Using
a new sealing ring, locate the bowl centrally
and tighten the centre bolt, to the specified
torque.
All models
11 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the
ground (if applicable).
12 Remove the oil filler cap. Fill the engine,
using the correct grade and type of oil (see
3.7a The oil filter cartridge
3.9 Oil filter components on automatic transmission models
1
2
3
4
Gasket
Head
Sealing ring
Element
5 Circlip
6 Pressure plate
7 Seal
8 Washer
9 Spring
10 Bowl
11 Seal
12 Collar
13 Centre bolt
1
1•6
Maintenance procedures
“Lubricants, fluids and capacities”). An oil can
spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage.
Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first,
then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the
sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at
a time until the level is up to the lower mark on
the dipstick. Adding 0.5 litre at a time, bring
the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick.
Insert the dipstick and refit the filler cap.
13 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the
engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter before the pressure builds up.
14 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once
more. With the new oil circulated and the filter
completely full, recheck the level on the
dipstick, and add more oil as necessary.
15 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to “General repair procedures” in
the reference Sections of this manual.
4 Automatic transmission
selector check
1 To check, select “N” and start the engine.
Move the lever to “R” and check that the reverse
is engaged, then slowly move the lever back to
“N” - the gear should disengage when the lever
reaches the “N” position, or slightly before.
Repeat the check but this time select “1”.
2 When carrying out the adjustment check, it
may be found that either first or reverse gear
does not disengage when the selector lever
reaches the “N” position.
3 If “R” remains engaged in position “N”,
reduce the gap at the end of the selector lever
travel by 0.01 in (0.25 mm). Refer to Chapter
7B, for further details.
4 If “1” remains engaged in position “N”
increase the gap at the end of the selector
lever travel by 0.01 in (0.25 mm).
5 Recheck the adjustment and repeat
paragraph 3 or 4 as necessary.
6 Check that the starter motor can be
operated only in positions “P” and “N”. Adjust
the starter inhibitor switch if necessary as
described in Chapter 7B.
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km) / 12 Months
5 Air filter element renewal
the spring clips and take off the cover. Extract
the element, wipe clean the inside of the
housing and fit a new element. Refit the cover
and secure with the spring clips.
Non-Turbo models
1 Unscrew and remove the two wing nuts on
the top of the air cleaner (see illustration).
2 Withdraw the air cleaner, at the same time
disconnecting it from the hot air shroud tube.
3 To remove the element, use a wide-bladed
screwdriver to separate the lid from the body,
then lift out the element and discard it (see
illustration).
4 Clean the interior of the air cleaner with a
fuel-moistened cloth, and wipe dry.
5 Install the new element and snap the cover
onto the body.
6 Check that the seal is in good condition,
then refit the air cleaner and connect it to the
hot air shroud tube. Insert and tighten the two
wing nuts.
6 Spark plug renewal
7 The air cleaner on MG Turbo models is
remote from the carburettor, being mounted
on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.
8 To renew the air cleaner element, release
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine (as specified at
the end of this Chapter). If this type is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug
cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not
be attempted unless specialised equipment is
available, as damage can easily be caused to
the firing ends.
2 Check each plug one at a time. This will
ensure that the plug leads are replaced in their
correct location (see illustration).
3 Pull the lead from each plug by gripping the
end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead
connection may be fractured. Check the lead
for damage.
5.1 Removing the air cleaner lid
5.3 Lifting out the air cleaner element
MG Turbo models
4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug
spanner, a box spanner or a deep socket and
extension bar. Keep the socket aligned with the
spark plug - if it is forcibly moved to one side,
the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As
each plug is removed, examine it as follows.
5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a
good indication of the condition of the engine.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and white, with no deposits, this is indicative
of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
8 The spark plug electrode gap is of
considerable importance as, if it is too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap
should be set to the value given in the
Specifications at the end of this Chapter.
6.2 HT lead connections and distributor
orientation
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
6.9a Measuring the spark plug gap with a
feeler blade
9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler
blade or wire gauge and then bend open, or
close, the outer plug electrode until the
correct gap is achieved (see illustrations).
The centre electrode should never be bent, as
this will crack the insulator and cause plug
failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades,
the gap is correct when the appropriate-size
blade is a firm sliding fit.
10 Special spark plug electrode gap
adjusting tools are available from most motor
accessory shops, or from some spark plug
manufacturers.
11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that
the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
clean.
6.9b Measuring the spark plug gap with a
wire gauge . . .
7 Fuel filter renewal (Turbo only)
Warning: Before carrying out
the following operation, refer to
the precautions given in ‘Safety
first!’ at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
12 Remove the rubber hose, and tighten the
plug to the specified torque using the spark
plug socket and a torque wrench.
13 Repeat the process with the remaining
spark plugs.
6.9c . . . and adjusting the gap using a
special tool
carburettor calibration. This filter must be
renewed at the specified interval, or the
mixture will become excessively weak during
part-load running. The filter must never be
omitted or the fuel consumption will increase.
9 Crankcase ventilation system
check
Check all crankcase ventilation and vacuum
hoses for damage and leakage (refer to
Chapter 2A). Where necessary remove the
hoses and clear them of any blockage.
Removal
1 The fuel filter is located in the fuel line
between the pressure regulator and the
carburettor. It should be renewed if filter
blockage is suspected.
2 Take precautions against fire when
removing the filter, and do not smoke.
Residual pressure in the fuel lines may lead to
significant fuel spillage when the filter is
removed.
3 Release the hose clamps on each side of
the filter and carefully pull off the hoses.
Inspect the hoses and clips; renew these too,
if necessary. Mop up any fuel spilt.
Refitting
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this
possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch
internal diameter rubber hose over the
end of the spark plug. The flexible hose
acts as a universal joint to help align
the plug with the plug hole. Should the
plug begin to cross-thread, the hose
will slip on the spark plug, which
prevents damage to the cylinder head.
1•7
4 Fit the new filter. A directional arrow or an
“OUT” marking should point towards the
carburettor; an “IN” marking should face the
pressure regulator. Without any markings the
filter may be fitted either way round.
5 Secure the new filter with the hose clamps.
When all spilt fuel has been removed from the
engine bay, start the engine and check for
leaks.
8 Carburettor vent filter renewal
The SU HIF carburettor requires an
unrestricted flow of air to the float chamber
through the vent pipe. If the pipe is allowed to
become blocked, kinked or even incorrectly
routed the mixture will be weakened, causing
poor performance and difficult starting. On 1.0
litre models fitted with “economy” engines, a
small air filter is fitted to the vent to improve
10 Battery terminal check
Caution: Before carrying out any work on
the vehicle battery, read through the
precautions given in ‘Safety first!’ at the
beginning of this manual.
1 The battery is located on the left-hand side
of the engine compartment. The exterior of
the battery should be inspected periodically
for damage such as a cracked case or cover.
2 Check the tightness of the battery cable
clamps to ensure good electrical connections,
and check the entire length of each cable for
cracks and frayed conductors. Check the
positive cable between the battery and the
starter motor.
3 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits)
is evident, remove the cables from the battery
terminals, clean them with a small wire brush,
then refit them.
Corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer
of petroleum jelly to the
clamps and terminals after
they are reconnected.
4 Make sure that the battery retaining clamp
is secure.
5 Corrosion on the retaining clamp and the
battery terminals can be removed with a
solution of water and baking soda.
Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain
water.
1
1•8
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
6 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by
corrosion should be covered with a zincbased primer, then painted.
7 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5.
8 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump starting can be found in Chapter 5
and in the preliminary sections of this manual.
11 Antifreeze (coolant)
concentration check
1 The antifreeze should always be maintained
at the specified concentration. This is
necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze
and coolant properties, but also to prevent
corrosion that would otherwise occur as the
corrosion inhibitors become progressively
less effective.
2 The check should be made with the engine
cold, and it will be necessary to obtain an
antifreeze tester from a car accessory shop.
3 Slowly unscrew the cap from the top of the
coolant expansion tank, then draw coolant into
the tester. Check the concentration of the
antifreeze according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. The most common tester
consists of three coloured balls of varying
density - a high concentration will cause all
three balls to float whereas a low
concentration may only cause one ball to float.
4 If the concentration is incorrect, slight
adjustments may be made by drawing some of
the coolant out of the expansion tank and
replacing it with undiluted antifreeze. If the
concentration is excessively out, it will be
necessary to completely drain the system and
renew the solution with reference to Section 32.
5 Tighten the cap onto the expansion tank on
completion.
12 Hose and fluid leak check
1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,
over a period of time, some very slight seepage
from these areas is to be expected - what you
are really looking for is any indication of a
serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the
offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the
appropriate Chapters in this manual.
2 Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place
and in good condition. Clips that are broken
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring, which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater
hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose
that is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks
will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay
close attention to the hose clips that secure the
hoses to the cooling system components. Hose
clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in
cooling system leaks.
4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the
cooling system will usually show up as white
or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5 Check that the pressure cap on the
expansion tank is fully tightened and shows
no sign of coolant leakage.
6 With the car raised, inspect the petrol tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler
neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
8 From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
9 If applicable, check the clutch hydraulic
circuit for leaks or damage.
13 Ignition check and
adjustment
Note: Some models are fitted with
breakerless, electronic distributors, which
require minimal maintenance.
1 Due to its location, it is recommended that
the distributor is removed to carry out this
work (refer to Chapter 5).
2 Clamp the distributor lightly in a vice and
remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
Mechanical distributor
3 Open the points and examine the condition
of their faces. If they are blackened or pitted,
remove them as described in Section 34 and
clean them using emery tape or a grindstone.
On the Ducellier distributor, take care to
maintain the contour of the points. If the
points are worn excessively, renew them.
Refer to Section 34 for further details.
4 If the contact points do not show any
excessive pitting, turn the drive dog until the
heel of the movable contact is on the high
point of one of the cam lobes.
5 Using a feeler blade, check that the gap
between the two points is as given in the
Specifications. If not, loosen the fixed contact
screw and reposition the fixed contact until
the feeler blade is a firm sliding fit between the
13.5 Adjusting the contact breaker points
gap (Lucas)
two points. Use a screwdriver in the special
notch to make a fine adjustment, and when
correct, tighten the fixed contact screw (see
illustration).
6 Apply one drop of engine oil to the felt pad
in the cam recess, then refit the rotor arm.
7 Wipe clean the ignition coil tower and the
distributor cap, and make sure that the
carbon brush moves freely against the tension
of the spring. Clean the metal segments in the
distributor cap, but do not scrape away any
metal otherwise the HT spark at the spark
plugs will be reduced.
8 Refit the distributor as described in
Chapter 5. Use a dwell meter to check the
dwell angle of the points. This angle should
be within the parameters given in the
Specifications. Reduce the contacts points
gap to increase the dwell angle, or increase
the gap to reduce it. Refer to Section 16 to
adjust the timing.
Electronic distributor
9 Thoroughly clean the distributor cap inside
and out with a dry lint-free rag. Examine the four
HT lead segments inside the cap. If the
segments appear badly burned or pitted, renew
the cap. Make sure that the carbon brush in the
centre of the cap is free to move and that it
protrudes by approximately 0.1 in (3 mm) from
its holder.
10 Lift off the rotor arm. On pre-1985
models, remove the plastic anti-flash shield
and carefully apply two drops of engine oil to
the felt pad in the centre of the cam spindle.
Also lubricate the centrifugal advance
mechanism by applying two drops of oil
through the square hole in the baseplate. On
1985 and later models, lubricate the bearing in
13.10 Breakerless distributor lubrication
points (arrowed)
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
1
2
3
4
5
1•9
15.2 Carburettor adjustments
Piston damper oil level
Fast idle screw
Throttle adjusting screw
Mixture screw
Fast idle cam position for
adjustment
14.4 Checking the drivebelt tension
the upper housing with a little engine oil, and
lubricate the centrifugal advance mechanism
by prising the plastic plug from the lower
housing (see illustration). Wipe away any
excess oil and refit the anti-flash shield (where
fitted), rotor arm and distributor cap.
11 Refit the distributor as described in
Chapter 5 and adjust the ignition timing as
described in Section 16.
14 Drivebelt check (and
renewal)
1 The drivebelt is used to drive the water
pump and alternator from the crankshaft
pulley.
2 Examine the drivebelt for cracks, splitting,
fraying, glazing (shiny patches) or any other
damage. Renew the belt at service interval or
if any damage is found.
3 To renew, loosen the alternator pivot bolts
and adjustment nut. Swivel the alternator
towards the cylinder block. Remove the belt.
4 Fit new belt over the pulleys and lever the
alternator away from the block until the
specified tension is achieved (see
illustration). Lever the alternator at the drive
end to avoid damage to end cover.
5 Tighten the adjustment and pivot bolt nuts.
6 Run the engine at 1000 rpm for five
minutes, then recheck and adjust as
necessary.
15 Engine idle and fast idle
adjustment
Note: Accurate adjustment of the carburettor
is only possible after adjustment of the ignition
timing, contact breaker gap, and spark plug
gaps. Incorrect valve clearances can also
affect carburettor adjustment.
Note: Depending on operating territory and
production date, the idle mixture adjustment
screw may be “tamperproofed” by means of a
plastic cap or seal, which must be destroyed
in order to make an adjustment. The object of
fitting the seal is to discourage (and to detect)
adjustment by unqualified or unskilled
operators. If you wish to remove a
tamperproof seal, satisfy yourself that you are
not breaking any local or national antipollution laws by so doing. Fit a new seal on
completion where this is required by law.
1 Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance
with
the
manufacturer’s
instructions. Remove the air cleaner.
2 Unscrew the piston damper and check that
the oil level is level with the top of the hollow
piston rod (see illustration). If not, top-up
with clean engine oil. Refit the piston damper.
On MG Turbo models there is a securing
clamp that must be released first and secured
afterwards. Failure to secure the damper cap
may result in dangerous fuel leakage.
3 Check that the choke control cable has
0.08 in (2 mm) free play.
4 If available, connect an exhaust gas
analyser to the engine in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions.
5 Run the engine at a fast idling speed until it
reaches its normal operating temperature,
indicated by the electric cooling fan operating.
Continue to run the engine for a further five
minutes.
6 Increase the engine speed to 2500 rpm for
30 seconds and repeat this at three-minute
intervals during the adjustment procedure.
This will ensure that any excess fuel is cleared
from the inlet manifold.
7 Allow the engine to idle and check the idling
speed against that given in the Specifications.
If necessary, turn the throttle adjustment
screw on top of the carburettor clockwise to
increase the speed or anti-clockwise to
decrease the speed (see illustration).
8 To adjust the idling mixture, slowly turn the
mixture screw, located on the right-hand side
of the carburettor, clockwise (to enrich) or
anti-clockwise (to weaken), until a point is
reached where the engine speed is fastest
(see illustration).
9 Slowly
turn
the
mixture
screw
anti-clockwise until the engine speed just
starts to drop.
10 Turn the throttle adjustment screw to
regain the specified idling speed.
15.7 Adjusting the idling speed
15.8 Adjusting the mixture
1
1•10
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
11 If an exhaust gas analyser is being used,
adjust the mixture screw to obtain the
specified idling exhaust gas content, then
readjust the throttle screw.
12 Pull out the choke control knob until the
arrow on the fast idle cam is aligned with the
fast idle adjusting screw, then check that the
fast idle speed is as given in the
Specifications. If not, turn the fast idle
adjusting screw as necessary.
13 Lubricate the throttle and choke controls
and check connections.
14 Return the choke control knob, and
switch off the engine.
15 Disconnect the tachometer and exhaust
gas analyser as necessary.
16 Refit the air cleaner with reference to
Chapter 4.
16 Ignition timing check and
adjustment
Mechanical ignition
1 For the home mechanic, there is only one
method that may be used to time the ignition the stroboscopic timing light method.
However, for initial setting-up purposes (i.e.
after a major overhaul, or if the timing has been
otherwise completely lost), a basic static timing
method should be used to get the engine
started. This involves the use of a test bulb.
Once the engine is running, the timing should
then be correctly set using the stroboscopic
timing light method. A further method,
employing the light emitting diode (LED) sensor
bracket and timing disc located on the bottom
of the timing cover, may be used, but the
equipment for use with this system will not
normally be available to the home mechanic.
Test bulb method
2 Remove the No 1 spark plug (crankshaft
pulley end) and place the thumb over the
aperture.
3 Turn the engine in the normal running
direction (clockwise from crankshaft pulley
end) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder,
indicating that the piston is beginning its
compression stroke. Use a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, or engage top gear and
pull the car forwards on manual gearbox
models.
4 Continue turning the engine until the V-notch
in the crankshaft pulley is exactly in line with
the timing cover pointer representing 4° BTDC .
Note that the large pointer indicates top dead
centre (TDC) and the remaining pointer peaks
are in increments of 4° BTDC.
5 Remove the distributor cap and check that
the rotor arm is pointing in the direction of the
No 1 terminal of the cap.
6 Connect a 12 volt test bulb between the
end of the moving contact spring and an
earthing point on the engine.
7 Loosen the distributor clamp plate bolt.
8 Switch on the ignition. If the bulb is already
lit, turn the distributor body slightly
anti-clockwise until the bulb goes out.
9 Turn the distributor body clockwise until the
bulb just lights up, indicating that the points
have just opened. Tighten the clamp bolt.
10 Switch off the ignition and remove the test
bulb.
11 Refit the distributor cap and No 1 spark
plug and HT lead. Once the engine has been
started, check the timing as follows and
adjust as necessary.
Stroboscopic timing light method
12 Disconnect and plug the vacuum pipe at
the distributor.
13 Wipe clean the crankshaft pulley notch
and timing cover pointers. If necessary, use
white paint or chalk to highlight the marks.
14 Connect the timing light to the engine in
accordance
with
the
manufacturer’s
instructions (usually between No 1 spark plug
and HT lead).
15 Connect a tachometer to the engine in
accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
16 Start the engine and run it at the speed
given in the Specifications, in Chapter 5, for
stroboscopic timing.
17 Point the timing light at the timing marks
and they should appear to be stationary with
the crank pulley notch in alignment with the
appropriate mark: refer to the Specifications for
the ignition timing applicable to the engine
being worked on. Note that the large pointer
indicates top dead centre (TDC) and the
remaining pointer peaks are in increments of 4°
BTDC (see illustration).
18 If adjustment is necessary (i.e. the pulley
notch does not line up with the appropriate
mark), loosen the distributor clamp plate bolt
and turn the body clockwise to advance and
anti-clockwise to retard the ignition timing.
Tighten the bolt when the setting is correct.
19 Gradually increase the engine speed while
still pointing the timing light at the timing
marks. The pulley notch should appear to
move anti-clockwise proving that the
centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If
the ignition advance is not in accordance with
the information given in the Specifications,
Chapter 5, the distributor should be replaced
as described in the same Chapter.
20 Switch off the engine and remove the
timing light and tachometer.
21 Reconnect the vacuum pipe to the
distributor. Disconnect the pipe from the
carburettor and remove the distributor cap.
Suck on the end of the pipe and check that
the baseplate (Lucas) or pivot link (Ducellier)
move to advance the points. If not, the
vacuum unit may be faulty.
22 Refit the distributor cap and vacuum pipe.
16.17 Typical timing scale. Moving mark is
on the crankshaft pulley
24 Pull off the HT lead and remove No 1
spark plug (nearest the crankshaft pulley).
25 Place a finger over the plug hole and turn
the engine in the normal direction of rotation
(clockwise from the crankshaft pulley end)
until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder. This
indicates that the piston is beginning its
compression stroke. The engine can be
turned with a socket and bar on the
crankshaft pulley bolt.
26 Continue turning the engine until the
notch in the crankshaft pulley is aligned with
the TDC pointer on the timing scale.
27 Remove the distributor cap and check
that the rotor arm is pointing towards the No 1
spark plug HT lead segment in the cap.
28 On pre-1985 models, lift off the rotor arm
and anti-flash shield and observe the position
of the reluctor in relation to the pick-up coil.
One of the teeth on the reluctor should be
aligned with, or very near to the small limb, of
the pick-up coil. Slacken the distributor clamp
retaining bolt and turn the distributor body
until the reluctor tooth and pick-up limb are
directly in line. Using feeler blades, preferably
of plastic or brass, measure the air gap
between the reluctor tooth and pick-up
assembly (see illustration). If the measured
dimension is outside the tolerance given in the
Specifications, slacken the adjusting nuts on
the pick-up assembly and reposition the unit
as necessary. Tighten the distributor clamp
and refit the anti-flash shield and the rotor arm.
29 On 1985-on models, if the rotor arm is not
pointing towards the No 1 spark plug HT lead
Electronic ignition system
Static timing
23 The only method of electronic ignition
timing for road use, is using a stroboscopic
lamp. However, for initial setting-up purposes
(e.g. after engine overhaul, or if the timing has
been completely lost) the following procedure
will enable the engine to be run in order to
undertake dynamic timing.
16.28 Reluctor air gap adjustment
1 Adjusting nuts
4 Reluctor tooth
2 Pick-up coil
A Specified gap
3 Pick-up limb
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
1•11
18.2a Clutch adjustments
1 Throw-out stop
2 Locknut
3 Return stop
4 Locknut
‘A’ Indicates return stop clearance
18.2b Checking the clutch return stop
clearance
2 Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length checking for any damaged, broken or
missing insulators or mountings, the security
of the pipe retaining clamps, and the
condition of the system with regard to rust
and corrosion.
3 Lower the vehicle to the ground on
completion.
segment in the cap, slacken the distributor
clamp bolt and turn the distributor body as
necessary, then tighten the bolt. It is not
possible to align the reluctor arms as they are
totally enclosed within the distributor.
30 Refit the distributor cap, No 1 spark plug
and the HT lead.
31 It should now be possible to start and run
the engine, enabling the ignition timing to be
checked accurately using a stroboscopic
timing light, as described earlier in this
section.
17 Driveshaft rubber gaiter
check
1 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands, turn the steering onto
full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
rubber, which may allow the grease to
escape, and lead to water and grit entry into
the joint. Also check the security and
condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these
checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage
or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be
renewed as described in Chapter 8.
2 At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to
rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding
the inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or possibly a loose
driveshaft retaining nut.
18 Clutch - adjustment and
maintenance
1 To adjust the return stop, pull the release
lever out against the tension of the slave
cylinder return spring until all the free
movement is taken up.
2 Using a feeler blade, check that the
clearance between the return stop and the
release lever is as given in the Specifications
(see illustrations). If not, loosen the locknut
and reposition the return stop screw as
necessary, then tighten the locknut. Make
sure that the lever is held against the spring
tension during the adjustment.
3 To adjust the throw-out stop, unscrew the
locknut on the end of the release plunger to
the limit of the thread, then unscrew the
throw-out stop to the locknut.
4 Have an assistant fully depress the clutch
pedal and keep it depressed. Screw in the
throw out stop until it contacts the housing.
5 With the clutch pedal released, screw in the
stop one further flat (60°), and tighten the
locknut while holding the stop stationary.
19 Exhaust system check
Warning: If the engine has been
running take care not to touch
the exhaust system, especially
the front section, as it may still
be hot.
1 Position the car over an inspection pit or on
car ramps. Alternatively raise the front and
rear of the car and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
20 Hinge and lock lubrication
1 Work around the vehicle, clean and then
lubricate the hinges of the doors, bonnet and
tailgate with a light machine oil.
2 Lubricate the bonnet release mechanism,
hinges and safety locks with a smear of
petroleum jelly.
3 Check carefully the security and operation
of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting
them where required. Check the operation of
the central locking system (if fitted).
4 Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
5 On completion check the operation of all
door locks, tailgate/boot locks and the fuel
filler flap. Check that the child safety catches
on the rear doors operate correctly.
21 Seat belt check
1 Working on each seat belt in turn, carefully
examine the seat belt webbing for cuts or any
signs of serious fraying or deterioration. Pull
the belt all the way out, and examine the full
extent of the webbing.
2 Fasten and unfasten the belt, ensuring that
the locking mechanism holds securely and
releases properly when intended. Check also
that the retracting mechanism operates
correctly when the belt is released.
3 Check the security of all seat belt
mountings and attachments that are
accessible, without removing any trim or other
components, from inside the vehicle.
1
1•12
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
22 Headlight beam alignment
check
1 Check the headlights for damage that may
occur as stone chipping.
2 The headlamp alignment should be
checked every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12
months, whichever occurs first.
3 It is recommended that the alignment is
carried out by a Rover dealer or specialist,
using modern beam setting equipment.
However, in an emergency, the following
procedure will provide an acceptable light
pattern.
4 Position the car on a level surface with the
ride heights correct, the car normally laden and
the tyres correctly inflated, approximately 10
metres (33 feet) in front of, and at right-angles
to, a wall or garage door.
5 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at
headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line
corresponding to the centre line of the car,
then measure off a point either side of this, on
the horizontal line, corresponding with the
headlamp centres.
6 Switch on the main beam and check that
the areas of maximum illumination coincide
with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If
not, turn the plastic knobs located on the rear
of the headlamps turn both knobs to raise or
lower the beam, and one knob (either will do)
to move the beam horizontally.
23 Brake line and flexible hose
check
1 Raise the front and rear of the car and
securely support on axle stands (see “Jacking
and vehicle support”). Remove all wheels.
2 Thoroughly examine all brake lines and
brake flexible hoses, including the servo hose,
for security and damage. To check the flexible
hoses, bend them slightly in order to show up
any cracking of the rubber.
3 Check the complete braking system for any
signs of brake fluid leakage.
4 Where necessary carry out repairs to the
braking system with reference to Chapter 9.
24 Front brake pad and rear
brake lining check
Warning: Read the ‘Safety First’
section, in the Preliminary
Chapter, before proceeding.
1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up
the front of the car and support it securely on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Remove the front roadwheels.
2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on each brake pad can be
measured through the aperture in the caliper
body. If any pad’s friction material is worn to
the specified thickness or less, all four pads
on that axle must be renewed as a set.
3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Further
details can be found in Chapter 9.
4 The disc pad warning indicators should
also be checked. To do this, first locate the
twin terminal black plastic sockets located on
the wiring harness over each wheel arch.
Switch on the ignition and connect a bridging
wire between the terminals of one socket; the
pad wear warning light should be illuminated
on the instrument panel. If not, either the
warning bulb is blown or there is a fault in the
circuit. Repeat the check on the remaining
front brake. On some models the pad wear
system is only fitted to the right-hand side
inner pad.
5 To check the rear brake linings, the rear
wheels and drums need to be removed. For
full details including adjustment procedures,
refer to Chapter 9.
6 On completion refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.
25 Steering, suspension and
shock absorber check
1 Raise the front and rear of the car, and
securely support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 The front and rear suspension should be
lubricated with a grease gun. The front grease
nipple is located on the upper suspension arm
at the pivot end. The rear nipple is located on
the outer end of the radius arm pivot. Always
clean the nipple before using the grease gun.
3 Check all the suspension joints and
mountings for security and damage.
4 Check the steering gaiters for splitting, and
examine the steering balljoints for wear.
Check the steering gear for security.
5 Visually inspect all balljoint dust covers and
the steering rack gaiters for splits, chafing or
deterioration. Any wear of these components
will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt
and water entry, resulting in rapid
deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear.
6 The front and rear suspension should be
lubricated with a grease gun. The front grease
nipple is located on the upper suspension arm
at the pivot end. The rear nipple is located on
the outer end of the radius arm pivot. Always
clean the nipple before using the grease gun.
7 Grasp each front roadwheel in turn at the
12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to
rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if
the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
8 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer
balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious.
9 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
10 Check for any signs of fluid leakage
around the front shock absorbers. Should any
fluid be noticed, the shock absorber is
defective internally, and should be renewed.
Note: Shock absorbers should always be
renewed in pairs on the same axle.
11 Lower the car to the ground.
12 The efficiency of the shock absorbers may
be checked by depressing each corner of the
car in turn. If the shock absorbers are in good
condition, the body will rise and then settle in
its normal position. If it continues to rise and
fall, the shock absorber is probably suspect.
Examine also the shock absorber upper and
lower mountings for any signs of wear.
13 With the car standing on its wheels, have
an assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and the rackand-pinion steering gear itself.
26 Hydragas units check
Note: Checking the pressure of this units,
along with repressurising and depressurising
must be done by either a Rover dealer or
specialist with the necessary equipment
needed.
1 A fault in a Hydragas unit can be
determined by checking the car ride height as
shown. If the measurements are less than
those specified (refer to Chapter 10), first
check the units and rear interconnecting pipe
for signs of leakage, which will appear as a
slight residue left after the fluid has
evaporated.
2 If the cause is a union, tighten the nut and
have the system repressurised.
3 Where a leak in a Hydragas unit is
suspected, clean the area around the
charging valve threads to determine whether
the valve is the source of the leak (Talcum
powder dusted around the clean valve may be
helpful in tracing a leak).
12 000 Miles (20 000 Km)
4 If it is established that the leak is occurring
round the valve threads, have the system
depressurised, then unscrew the valve.
5 Screw in a new valve, using a sealant on the
threads. Tighten the valve to the specified
torque (see Chapter 10). Have the system
repressurised on completion, and check for
leaks.
6 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit is
leaking fluid, renew the unit and again have it
repressurised.
7 If no fluid leak can be found, it is possible
that nitrogen has leaked from the unit. To
check this, have the unit checked with the
pressure pump. The fluid pressure should
increase rapidly to the pressure of the
nitrogen, and thereafter increase at a
noticeably slower rate. If nitrogen has been
leaking, the pressure will have dropped and
the fluid pressure will increase rapidly above
the normal nitrogen pressure.
8 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit has
leaked nitrogen, renew it and have the
suspension repressurised.
27 Handbrake adjustment
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Apply the handbrake four times to settle the
compensator and cable positions.
3 Adjust the rear brakes as described in
Chapter 9.
4 Apply the handbrake six notches on an old
cable, or four notches on a new cable, then
check that both rear wheels are locked.
5 To adjust the handbrake, loosen the cable
locknut using a spanner through the access
slot in the carpet behind the handbrake. Turn
the adjusting nut until the correct tension is
achieved, then tighten the locknut.
6 Lubricate the linkages and cables.
7 Release the handbrake and check that the
wheels rotate freely, then lower the car to the
ground.
28 Front wheel alignment check
1 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check the wheel alignment
accurately, checking and adjustment is best
left to a Rover dealer or similar expert. Note
that most tyre-fitting shops now possess
sophisticated checking equipment. Refer to
Chapter 10 for more information.
2 Before having the front wheel alignment
checked, all tyre pressures should be
checked and if necessary adjusted (see
“Weekly Checks”).
29 Road test (after every
service)
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1 Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly. Check the function of the heating
control systems.
Steering and suspension
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road ‘feel’.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive ‘sloppiness’, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch (if applicable), gearbox/transmission
and driveshafts. On Turbo models, check that
the boost pressure needle moves up to the
red zone during brief acceleration.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine,
clutch
(if
applicable)
and
gearbox/transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
1•13
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
9 On manual gearbox models, check that the
clutch action is smooth and progressive, that
the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the
pedal travel is correct. Also listen for any noises
when the clutch pedal is depressed. Check
that all gears can be engaged smoothly,
without noise, and that the gear lever action is
not abnormally vague or ‘notchy’.
10 On automatic transmission models, make
sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly
without snatching, and without an increase in
engine speed between changes. Check that
all the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Rover dealer.
11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven
slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.
Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case, refer to
Chapter 8.
Check the operation and
performance of the braking
system
12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels
do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
14 Check that the handbrake operates
correctly, without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary
on a slope.
15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit
(where applicable) as follows. With the engine
off, depress the footbrake four or five times to
exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding
the brake pedal depressed. As the engine
starts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ in the
brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the
engine to run for at least two minutes, and then
switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed
now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from
the servo as the pedal is depressed. After
about four or five applications, no further
hissing should be heard.
18 000 Miles (30 000 Km) /18 Months
30 Brake fluid renewal
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid
that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
bleeding of the hydraulic system as described
in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid
reservoir should be emptied by syphoning.
Use a clean poultry baster or similar before
starting, and allowance should be made for
the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a
section of the circuit.
2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open
the first bleed screw in the sequence, and
pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all
the old fluid has been emptied from the fluid
reservoir. Top-up to the “MAX” level with new
fluid, and continue pumping until only the new
fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid
can be seen emerging from the bleed screw.
Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level
up to the “MAX” level line.
3 Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker
in colour than the new, making it easy to
distinguish the two.
4 Work through all the remaining bleed
screws in the sequence, until new fluid can be
seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the
master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above
the “MIN” level at all times, or air may enter
the system and greatly increase the length of
the task.
1
1•14
Maintenance procedures
5 When the operation is complete, check that
all bleed screws are securely tightened, and
that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all
traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the reservoir
fluid level.
6 Check the operation of the brakes before
taking the car on the road.
31 Clutch fluid renewal (if
applicable)
1 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4).
2 Unscrew the filler cap. Top-up the clutch
master cylinder to the bottom of the filler neck
with hydraulic fluid.
3 Connect a bleed tube to the bleed screw on
the slave cylinder and place the free end in a jar.
4 Open the bleed screw three-quarters of a
turn and have an assistant fully depress the
clutch pedal slowly.
5 Tighten the bleed screw, then allow the
clutch pedal to return to its stop. Pause for a
moment, then repeat the procedure twice
more. Top-up the master cylinder reservoir,
and continue bleeding the system until the
fluid entering the jar is free of air bubbles. The
fluid must never drop more than half way
down the reservoir.
6 Check the tightness of the bleed screw,
and fit the filler cap after topping up the
reservoir to the bottom of the filler neck.
7 Refit the air cleaner with reference to
Chapter 4.
24 000 Miles (40 000 Km) / 2 Years
32 Antifreeze (coolant) renewal
Warning: Wait until the engine is
cold before starting this
procedure. Do not allow
antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin, or with the painted surfaces
of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately
with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze
lying around in an open container antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.
Draining
1 It is preferable to drain the cooling system
when the engine has cooled. If this is not
possible, place a cloth over the expansion
tank filler cap. Turn it slowly in an
anti-clockwise direction until the first stop is
reached, then wait until all the pressure has
been released.
2 Remove the filler cap.
3 Place a container beneath the left-hand
side of the radiator.
4 Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose
away from the radiator outlet. Drain the
coolant into the container.
5 Place a second container beneath the
cylinder block drain plug located on the rear
right-hand side next to the clutch slave
cylinder. If necessary, remove the hot air
stove from the exhaust manifold (Chapter 4),
to improve access to the drain plug. Unscrew
the plug and drain the coolant.
Flushing
6 After some time the radiator and engine
waterways may become restricted or even
blocked with scale or sediment, which
reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.
When this occurs, the coolant will appear
rusty and dark in colour and the system
should then be flushed. In severe cases,
reverse flushing may be required as described
later.
7 Disconnect the top hose from the cylinder
head outlet elbow, and the bottom hose from
the radiator outlet.
8 Insert a hose in the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clear from the outlet.
9 Insert the hose in the expansion tank filler
neck and allow water to run out of the cylinder
head outlet elbow and bottom hose until clear.
10 Disconnect the heater inlet hose from the
front of the cylinder head, insert the hose, and
allow water to circulate through the heater
and out through the bottom hose until clear.
11 In severe cases of contamination, the
system should be reverse flushed. To do this,
remove the radiator, invert it, and insert a
hose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear
water runs from the inlet.
12 If the engine is to be reverse flushed,
remove the thermostat, and insert a hose into
the cylinder head. Continue flushing until clear
water runs from the cylinder block drain plug
and bottom hose.
13 The use of any good proprietary cleaning
agent may be necessary if the system is
severely
contaminated
(always
read
manufacturer’s instructions). Reverse flushing
is also recommended to cleanse the cooling
system and restore maximum efficiency. To
prevent contamination occurring in future,
regular renewal of the antifreeze is necessary.
Filling
14 Reconnect the radiator bottom hose and
heater hose.
15 Refit the thermostat if removed, and
reconnect the top hose to the outlet elbow.
16 Insert and tighten the cylinder block drain
plug.
17 Pour coolant into the expansion tank filler
until it reaches the level mark. Refit the cap.
18 Run the engine at a fast idling speed for
three minutes, then stop the engine and check
the level in the expansion tank. Top-up the
level as necessary, being careful to release
pressure from the system before removing the
filler cap if necessary.
not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,
but also to prevent corrosion that would
otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors
become progressively less effective.
20 Always use an ethylene-glycol based
antifreeze that is suitable for use in mixedmetal cooling systems. The quantity of
antifreeze and levels of protection are
indicated in the Specifications.
21 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
system should be completely drained,
preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for
condition and security.
22 After filling with antifreeze, a label should
be attached to the expansion tank filler neck,
stating the type and concentration of
antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any
subsequent topping-up should be made with
the same type and concentration of
antifreeze.
33 Oil filler cap renewal
To maintain efficiency of the crankcase
ventilation system, renew the oil filler cap.
34 Contact breaker points
renewal (if applicable)
1 Remove the distributor as described in
Chapter 5, and clamp it slightly in a vice.
Remove the rotor arm (see illustration).
Continued on page 1•16
Antifreeze mixture
Caution: Do not use engine antifreeze in the
windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it
will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork.
19 The antifreeze should always be renewed
at the specified intervals. This is necessary
34.1 Removing the rotor arm (Lucas)
Servicing specifications
1•15
Engine
Oil filter:
Manual gearbox models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manual gearbox models (MG Turbo only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic transmission models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cartridge type (Champion C103)
Cartridge type (Champion C106)
Paper element type (Champion X113)
Cooling system
Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.
Antifreeze mixture:
28% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
50% antifreeze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Protection down to -15°C (5°F)
Protection down to -30°C (-22°F)
Fuel system
Refer to Chapter 4, for further details.
Air cleaner element:
All models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel filter:
MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Idling speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fast idle speed (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust gas CO content:
Except MG Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Champion W125
Champion W114
In-line type
765 ± 165 rpm
1200 ± 150 rpm
1.5 to 3.5%
0.5 to 2.5%
Ignition system
Spark plug type:
998cc:
Up to 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
1987 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN12YCC or RN12YC
1275cc:
All models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN7YCC or RN7YC
Spark plug gap *:
RN9YCC or RN12YCC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)
RN9YC or RN12YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.6 mm (0.024 in)
RN7YCC or RN7YC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.032 in)
* The spark plug gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs previously. If spark plugs of any other type are to be
fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.
Contact breaker gap (where applicable):
Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm)
Ducellier (initial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.015 in (0.38 mm)
Dwell angle:
Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54°+ 5°
Ducellier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57°± 2.5°
Air gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.006 to 0.010 in (0.15 to 0.25 mm)
Brakes
Brake pad minimum thickness (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake shoe lining minimum thickness (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Disc minimum thickness:
Plain disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.125 in (3 mm)
0.063 in (1.6 mm)
0.34 in (8.6 mm)
0.74 in (18.7 mm)
Tyres
Sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
135 SR 12, 165/70R 12, 165/60 HR 13, 150/65 R315, 155/70 SR 12,
155/70 SR 12, 165/65 HR 13, 160/65 R315, 160/65 R315, or
185/55 13 (depending on model).
see “Weekly Checks”
Wiper blades
Windscreen and tailgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Champion X-103 (16 inch)
Torque wrench settings
lbf ft
28
30
28
16
42
3.5
18
Automatic transmission drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manual gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter centre bolt (automatics only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Roadwheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nm
39
41
39
22
58
5
25
1
1•16
Maintenance procedures
Lucas distributors
2 Press the moving contact spring from the
insulator post and slide out the low tension
connector (see illustration).
3 Unscrew the fixed contact retaining screw
and remove the contact breaker set from the
baseplate and pin (see illustration).
Ducellier distributors
4 Remove the spring clip from the two pivot
posts.
5 Remove the fibre washer and lift the moving
contact from the pivot post. Slide the LT wire
retaining block from the distributor body and
disconnect the condenser lead.
6 Remove the screw and washer and
withdraw the fixed contact from the
baseplate.
34.2 Disconnecting the contact spring
from the insulator (Lucas)
34.3 Removing the contact breaker set
(Lucas)
All distributors
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust the
points gap as described in Section 13. On the
Lucas version, make sure that the nylon plate
engages the pin.
2A•1
Chapter 2 Part A:
Engine in-car repair procedures
Contents
Crankcase ventilation system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Flywheel/torque converter ring gear - examination, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Oil coolers - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Oil cooler (air-cooled) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Oil cooler (water-cooled) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Oil filter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Major operations only possible after removal of the engine/gearbox
from the car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major operations possible with the engine/gearbox in the car . . . . . .2
Tappets (998 cc engine only) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Timing cover, chain, and gears - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . .6
Valve clearances - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
998 cc engine
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four in-line, overhead valve
2.543 in (64.59 mm)
3.0 in (76.2 mm)
998 cc (60.96 cu in)
1-3-4-2
Compression ratio (typical)
Early models:
Low compression models, (inc. 1.0, L and Van) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard compression (inc. 1.0, L and Gala) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
High compression (inc. L, HLE and City X) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984:
Engine 99H907P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine 99HA06P and 99HA08P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 to 1986 (all models):
Note: Replace dashes (`- -`) with listed code.
99HA - - P:
64, 68, 69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
67, 71 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65, 66, 70, 75 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
99HB - - P:
39, 96, 97, 98, 99 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38, 87, 88, 89, 94, 95 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
90, 91, 92, 93 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1987 to 1988:
99HD - - P:
32, 33, 34, 35 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
30, 31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27, 28, 29 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on:
99 HD - -:
32, 33 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27, 29, 30, 31 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on (95 RON unleaded fuel specification):
99H E38 and 99H E39 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
99H E- -:
35, 67, 68, 69, 70, 76, 94 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8.3 : 1
9.6 : 1
10.3 : 1
9.6 : 1
10.3 : 1
8.3 : 1 (Low compression)
9.6 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.3 : 1 (High compression)
8.3 : 1 (Low compression)
9.6 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.3 : 1 (High compression)
8.3 : 1 (Low compression)
9.6 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.3 : 1 (High compression)
8.3 : 1 (Low compression)
10.3 : 1 (High compression)
8.3 : 1 (Low compression)
9.6 : 1 (Standard compression)
2A
2A•2 Engine in-car repair procedures
Rocker gear
Rocker shaft diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clearance in rockers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.5615 to 0.5625 in (14.26 to 14.29 mm)
0.0005 to 0.0025 in (0.01 to 0.07 mm)
Lubrication system
System pressure:
Idling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Running . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Warning light switch operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pressure relief valve operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pressure relief valve spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil type and specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter:
Manual gearbox models (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15 lbf/in2 (1.05 kgf/cm2)
60 lbf/in2 (4.2 kgf/cm2)
6 to 10 lbf/in2 (0.4 to 0.7 kgf/cm2)
60 lbf/in2 (4.2 kgf/cm2)
2.86 in (72.63 mm)
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 (pre August 1983) or
10W/40 (August 1983 on)
Cartridge type (Champion C103)
Paper element type (Champion X113)
1275 cc engine (except MG Turbo)
Note: Specifications as 998 cc engine except for the following differences:
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.78 in (70.61 mm)
Stroke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2 in (81.28 mm)
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1275 cc (77.8 cu in)
Compression ratio
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982:
Low compression models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3, L, Vanden Plas manual and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 (otherwise as 1982):
Gala, Moritz and Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 to 1986 (all models):
Note: Replace dashes (`- -`) with listed code.
Engine codes:
12HA73AA, 12HA84AA, 12HB37AA, 12HC17AA, 12HC18AA,
12HC19AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HA - - AA:
60, 61, 62, 71, 72, 80, 86, 87 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HB - - AA:
09, 22, 36 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HC - - AA:
01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HA83AA, 12HA42AA, 12HC14AA, 12HC15AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1987 to 1988:
12HD18AA, 12HD19AA, 12HD20AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HD - - AA:
09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on:
12HD18, 19, 20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HD - -:
09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17, 24, 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on (95 RON unleaded fuel specification):
12HE - -:
41, 42 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24, 25, 48, 71, 72, 73 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12HF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9.4 : 1
8.0 : 1
9.4 : 1
10.5 : 1
9.4 : 1
9.75 : 1
as 1983
8.0 : 1 (Low compression)
9.75 : 1 (Standard compression)
9.75 : 1 (Standard compression)
9.75 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.5 : 1 (High compression)
8.0 : 1 (Low compression)
9.75 : 1 (Standard compression)
8.01 : 1 (Low compression)
9.75 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.5 : 1 (High compression)
8.0 : 1 (Low compression)
9.4 : 1 (Standard compression)
10.0 : 1 (High compression)
1275 cc engine (MG Turbo)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9.4 : 1
Cartridge type (Champion C106)
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•3
Torque wrench settings
Brake servo pipe banjo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Camshaft locating plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Camshaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Connecting rod big-end - bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Connecting rod big-end - nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankshaft pulley bolt (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder head nuts (except MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder head nuts (oiled) (MG Turbo) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder head bypass plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder head outlet elbow nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder block side cover (998 cc only) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine mountings:
3
⁄8 in UNC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
M10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
M12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Right-hand, from late 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front plate to bearing cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front plate to crankcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main bearing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Manifold to cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil filter head nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil pipe banjo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil pressure switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil separator to flywheel housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pressure relief valve nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rocker cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rocker shaft pedestal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Timing cover to front plate:
1
⁄4 in diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
⁄16 in diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve clearance adjusting nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water jacket drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
lbf ft
37
8
65
37
33
75
105
50
55
12
16
3.5
Nm
51
11
89
51
46
103
145
69
76
17
22
5
30
22
33
53
21 to 26
5
16
63
16
16
57
18
8
15
45
3.5
24
28
8
41
30
46
73
29 to 36
7
22
87
22
22
78
25
11
20
62
5
32
39
11
5
12
16
27
7
17
22
37
Engine description
1 General description
How to use this Chapter
1 This part of Chapter 2, describes those
repair procedures that can reasonably be
carried out on the engine while it remains in
the car. If the engine has been removed from
the car, and is being dismantled as described
in Part B, any preliminary dismantling
procedures can be ignored.
2 Note that, while it may be possible
physically to overhaul items such as the
piston/connecting rod assemblies while the
engine is in the car, such tasks are not
normally carried out as separate operations.
Usually, several additional procedures (not to
mention the cleaning of components and of
oilways) have to be carried out. For this
reason, all such tasks are classed as major
overhaul procedures, and are described in
Part B of this Chapter.
3 Part B describes the removal of the
engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the
full overhaul procedures that can then be
carried out.
4 The engine is of four cylinder, in-line,
overhead valve type mounted transversely at
the front of the car and fitted over the
gearbox. A low compression version is
available for fleet use.
5 The crankshaft is of three bearing type, and
the centre main bearing incorporates
thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat.
A torsional damper is fitted.
6 The camshaft is chain driven from the
crankshaft and is supported in three bearings.
The timing chain tensioner is of spring plate
and bonded rubber type. The valves are
operated from the camshaft by pushrod and
rocker arm.
7 The oil pump is driven from the rear
(flywheel) end of the camshaft, and a skew
gear on the camshaft drives the distributor by
way of a driveshaft.
8 The main design differences between the
998 cc and 1275 cc engines are as follows:
a) The 998 cc engine has side covers which
can be removed to remove the tappets
whereas the 1275 cc engine has no side
covers; the tappets can only be removed
from the crankcase (see illustrations).
b) The 998 cc engine has diagonally split
big-end bearings and fully floating
gudgeon pins. Whereas the 1275 cc
engine has cross split big-end bearings
and gudgeon pins which are an
interference fit in the connecting rods.
9 The engine has been designated the “A
Plus” since it is an improved version of the
“A-Series” engine fitted to Mini models. The
improvements
include
a
toughened
crankshaft, a crankshaft torsional damper,
and hard wearing exhaust valves and
seatings. A fully closed crankcase ventilation
system is employed, and piston blow-by
gases are drawn into the inlet manifold
through oil separators and a port on the
carburettor.
Compression Test
10 When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel systems, a compression
test can provide diagnostic clues as to the
engine’s condition. If the test is performed
regularly, it can give warning of trouble before
any other symptoms become apparent.
11 The engine must be fully warmed-up to
normal operating temperature, the battery
2A
2A•4 Engine in-car repair procedures
1.8a Exploded view of the 998 cc engine
1 Oil filler cap
2 Dipstick
3 Water outlet elbow
4 Valve cover
5 Gasket
6 Piston and rings
7 Gudgeon pin and circlips
8 Temperature sender unit
9 Thermostat and housing
10 Rocker shaft pedestal
11 Rocker shaft
12 Rocker arm
13 Lockplate and screw
14 Hot air stove
15 Cylinder head
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
Valve
Rocker adjusting screw
Valve spring, cup and collets
Connecting rod and cap
Oil pressure relief valve
Cylinder head gasket
Distributor driveshaft
Pushrod
Valve guide
Manifold gasket
Inlet and exhaust manifold
Drivebelt
Water pump
Front mounting plate
must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs
must be removed (see Chapter 1). The aid of
an assistant will also be required.
12 Disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from
the distributor cap, and earthing it on the
cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar
wire, to make a good connection.
Alternatively, disconnect the low-tension
wiring plug from the distributor.
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
Big-end bearing shell
Cylinder block
Tappet
Oil pump
Oil filter head
Oil separator
Side covers
Water pump pulley
Timing cover
Chain tensioner
Crankshaft pulley
Oil seal
Timing chain
Camshaft gear
13 Fit a compression tester to the No 1
cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester
which screws into the plug thread is to be
preferred.
14 Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open, and crank the engine on the starter
motor; after one or two revolutions, the
compression pressure should build up to a
maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record
the highest reading obtained.
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
Locating plate
Camshaft
Oil thrower
Crankshaft gear
Crankshaft
Thrustwasher
Primary gear
Backing ring
Thrustwasher
Fuel pump
Main bearing cap
Dowel
Crankshaft thrustwashers
Main bearing shells
15 Repeat the test on the remaining
cylinders, recording the pressure in each.
16 All cylinders should produce very similar
pressures; a difference of more than 2 bars
between any two cylinders indicates a fault.
Note that the compression should build up
quickly in a healthy engine; low compression
on the first stroke, followed by graduallyincreasing pressure on successive strokes,
indicates worn piston rings. A low
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
2A
1.8b Exploded view of the 1275 cc engine
1 Oil filler cap
2 Dipstick
3 Water outlet elbow
4 Valve cover
5 Gudgeon pin
6 Piston and rings
7 Temperature transmitter
8 Housing
9 Thermostat
10 Gasket
11 Rocker shaft
12 Rocker arm
13 Lockplate
14 Locating screw
15 Pedestal
16 Hot air stove
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
Connecting rod and cap
Oil pressure relief valve
Cylinder head gasket
Cylinder head
Exhaust valve
Adjusting screw
Valve spring, cup and collets
Cylinder block
Distributor driveshaft
Pushrod
Tappet
Inlet valve seal
Valve guide
Inlet valve
Manifold gasket
compression reading on the first stroke, which
does not build up during successive strokes,
indicates leaking valves or a blown head
gasket (a cracked head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
17 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry
out the following test to isolate the cause.
Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that
cylinder through its spark plug hole, and
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
Inlet and exhaust manifold
Oil filter head
Drivebelt
Water pump pulley
Water pump
Chain tensioner
Oil filter
Oil pump
Drain plug
Crankshaft pulley
Timing cover and oil separator
Oil seal
Timing chain
Camshaft gear
Locating plate
repeat the test.
18 If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear is responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
19 A low reading only from two adjacent
cylinders is almost certainly due to the head
gasket having blown between them; the
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
Camshaft
Fuel pump insulator block
Oil thrower
Crankshaft gear
Crankshaft
Thrustwasher
Primary gear
Backing ring
Thrustwasher
Crankshaft thrustwashers
Main bearing shell
Big-end shell
Fuel pump
Main bearing cap
Front mounting plate
presence of coolant in the engine oil will
confirm this.
20 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower
than the others and the engine has a slightly
rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the
cause.
21 On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the ignition system and
fuel pump as necessary.
2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures
4.3 Cylinder head nut tightening sequence
4.1a Rocker cover washer and seal
2 Major operations possible with
the engine/gearbox in the car
1 The following operations can be carried out
without having to remove the engine/gearbox
from the car:
a) Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head.
b) Removal of the timing cover chain and
gears.
c) Removal of the tappets (cam followers) on
the 998 cc engine only.
d) Removal of the flywheel and clutch (refer
to Chapter 6) or torque converter
(Chapter 7B).
e) Renewal of the engine mountings.
f) Renewal of oil coolers (if fitted).
3 Major operations only possible
after removal of the
engine/gearbox from the car
1 The following operations can only be
carried
out
after
removal
of
the
engine/gearbox from the car:
a) Removal of the camshaft.
b) Removal of the oil pump.
c) Removal of the piston/connecting rod
assemblies.
d) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
and big-end bearings.
e) Removal of the tappets (cam followers) on
the 1275 cc engine only.
2 Refer to Chapter 2B, for further details on
these procedures.
4.5 Removing a pushrod
4.1b Removing the rocker cover
4 Cylinder head - removal and
refitting
Note: If the engine is still in the car, first carry
out the following operations:
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3).
c) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifold
complete with the carburettor (Chapter 4).
d) Disconnect the cooling system top hose,
heater hose, and expansion tank hose
from the thermostat housing (Chapter 3).
e) Remove the HT leads (and spark plugs if
required) (Chapter 5).
f) Disconnect the lead from the water
temperature sender unit (Chapter 3).
1 Unscrew the two nuts, remove the washers,
and withdraw the rocker cover and gasket
(see illustrations).
2 Unscrew the rocker shaft pedestal small nuts
and remove the washers. Note the lockwasher
fitted to the second pedestal from the front.
3 Unscrew the cylinder head nuts half a turn
at a time in the reverse order to that shown
(see illustration). Remove the coil and
bracket.
4 Lift the rocker shaft and pedestals from the
studs (see illustration).
5 Shake the pushrods free from the tappets
(cam followers), then withdraw them from the
cylinder head keeping them in strict order to
ensure correct refitting (see illustration).
6 Lift the cylinder head from the block (see
illustration). If it is stuck, tap it free with a
wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the
gasket joint - you may damage the mating
surfaces.
4.6 Removing the cylinder head
(1275 cc engine)
4.4 Removing the rocker shaft assembly
7 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the
cylinder block (see illustration).
8 Refer to Section 6, in Chapter 2B, for the
overhauling procedures.
Refitting
9 Make sure that the faces of the cylinder
head and block are perfectly clean, then fit the
new gasket over the studs with the words
“TOP” and “FRONT” correctly positioned (see
illustration). Do not use jointing compound
on the cylinder head gasket.
10 Lower the cylinder head over the studs
and onto the gasket.
11 Insert the pushrods in their original
locations, then lower the rocker shaft and
pedestals over the studs, at the same time
guiding the adjusting screws into the
pushrods.
12 Locate the coil and bracket on the stud
furthest from the thermostat, and fit the rocker
shaft lockwasher to the second pedestal from
the front.
4.7 Removing the cylinder head gasket
(1275 cc engine)
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7
4.9 Cylinder head gasket “FRONT”
marking
4.13 Tightening the cylinder head nuts
13 Fit the cylinder head nuts and tighten
them to half the specified torque in the order
shown (see illustration 4.3). After several
minutes, tighten the nuts to the final torque,
again in the order recommended (see
illustration).
14 Fit the rocker shaft pedestal washers and
nuts, and tighten them evenly to the specified
torque (see illustration).
15 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
16 Fit the valve cover with a new gasket and
tighten the two nuts.
17 If the engine is in the car, reverse the
removal procedure given in paragraphs 1 to 6,
and refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 3.
18 Drive the car for five to ten miles, then
allow the engine to cool and remove the valve
cover. Working in the order shown (see
illustration 4.3), loosen half a turn, then
immediately tighten, each cylinder head nut to
the specified torque. Readjust the valve
clearances, then refit the valve cover.
releasing the handbrake, and rocking the car
backwards and forwards.
4 Insert a feeler blade of the correct thickness
between the rocker arm and valve stem of No 1
valve (No 1 cylinder exhaust). If the blade is not
a firm sliding fit, loosen the locknut on the
rocker arm with a ring spanner and turn the
adjusting screw with a screwdriver (see
illustration). Tighten the locknut whilst holding
the adjusting screw stationary, then recheck
the adjustment.
5 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
3 and 4 on the remaining valves using the
“rule of nine” method as given below:
Valve open
Adjust valve
8 exhaust
1 exhaust
6 inlet
3 inlet
4 exhaust
5 exhaust
7 inlet
2 inlet
1 exhaust
8 exhaust
3 inlet
6 inlet
5 exhaust
4 exhaust
2 inlet
7 inlet
6 Check the valve cover gasket for damage
and renew it if necessary. Refit the valve cover
and gasket with the filler cap towards the
timing chain end of the engine. Tighten the
nuts to the specified torque.
5 Valve clearances - adjustment
Adjustment
1 The valve clearances must be adjusted with
the engine cold.
2 Remove the valve cover and gasket.
3 Turn the engine with a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt until No 8 valve (No 4
cylinder exhaust) is fully open. Alternatively,
the engine can be turned by engaging 4th gear,
5.4 Checking the valve clearances
4.14 Tightening the rocker shaft pedestal
nuts
Removal
Note: If the engine is still in the car, first carry
out the following operations:
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) Remove the drivebelt and the water pump
pulley (Chapter 3).
1 On models with the three-point engine
mounting system the following additional
operations are required when removing the
timing cover with the engine in situ.
Disconnect the windscreen washer pump
plug and move the reservoir to one side.
2 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley
bolt, rotate the engine until No 4 piston is at
top dead centre on the compression stroke.
This will align the timing gear marks.
3 On the 1275 cc engine, disconnect the
crankcase ventilation hose from the oil
separator on the timing cover.
4 Unlock and unscrew the crankshaft pulley
bolt. When removing the crankshaft pulley
bolt with the engine still in the car, there is
insufficient room to use a normal socket due
to the location of the right-hand engine
mounting. A ring spanner may be used
instead, but if the bolt is particularly tight, tool
18G 98A (see illustration), should be
obtained from a tool hire agent. The tool has a
strengthened tip for hitting with a heavy
hammer.
5 If the engine is removed, a block of wood
placed between a crankshaft web and the
crankcase will keep the crankshaft stationary.
If the engine is in the car, select top gear and
apply the handbrake.
6 Lever the pulley and damper off the front of
the crankshaft (see illustration).
7 After removing the crankshaft pulley, lift the
alternator so that its adjusting link is clear of
the timing cover. Wedge or clamp the
alternator in this position while the cover is
removed.
6.4 Tool 18G 98A for unscrewing the
crankshaft pulley bolts
6.6 Removing the crankshaft pulley and
damper (1275 cc engine)
6 Timing cover, chain, and gears
- removal, overhaul and refitting
2A
2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures
6.8 Removing the timing cover
(1275 cc engine)
8 Unbolt and remove the timing cover, and
remove the gasket (see illustration).
9 Remove the oil thrower, noting which way
round it is fitted (see illustration). Recover
any shims (used for gear wheel alignment),
noting their fitted positions.
10 Flatten the lockwasher, then unscrew the
camshaft gear retaining nut (see illustration).
Use a screwdriver through one of the gear
holes to restrain the gear. Remove the
lockwasher.
11 Check that the alignment marks on the
timing gears are facing each other, then
unbolt and remove the chain tensioner.
12 Using two levers, ease the two gears and
chain from the camshaft and crankshaft.
13 Remove the gears from the chain, but
identify the outer face of the chain so that it
can be refitted in its original position if
necessary.
6.9 Correct location for the crankshaft oil
thrower
Overhaul
14 Examine all the teeth on the camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets. If these are “hooked” in
appearance, renew the sprockets.
15 Examine the chain tensioner for wear and
renew it if necessary.
16 Examine the timing chain for wear. If it has
been in operation for a considerable time, or if
when held horizontally (rollers vertical) it takes
on a deeply bowed appearance, renew it.
17 Check the timing cover for damage and
renew it if necessary. It is good practice to
renew the timing cover oil seal whenever the
timing cover is removed. To do this, drive out
the old seal with a drift, and install the new
seal using a block of wood to make sure that
it enters squarely (see illustration).
18 Early crankshaft pulley bolts may be
found to have a shoulder that can foul the end
of the crankshaft and cause the pulley to
6.17 Fitting the timing cover oil seal
6.19a Checking the timing gear alignment
by comparing the camshaft gear teeth-torule dimension . . .
6.19b. . . with the crankshaft gear teethto-rule dimension
6.20 Crankshaft gear shim location
6.10 Removing the camshaft gear
retaining nut
become loose. Where this has occurred,
renew the pulley and fit the later modified bolt
together with a lockwasher. The later bolt
does not have a shoulder.
Refitting
19 Locate the timing gears on the crankshaft
and camshaft without the chain, and check
their alignment using a straight edge and
feeler blade as shown (see illustrations).
20 Remove the gears, and if necessary
extract the Woodruff key and fit shims to the
crankshaft to obtain the alignment. Refit the
key (see illustration).
21 Turn the crankshaft so that the Woodruff
key is at top dead centre, and turn the
camshaft so that the key is at 2 o’clock. In this
position No 4 cylinder is at TDC compression.
22 Loop the timing chain over the two gears
so that the timing marks are facing each other
on the centre line (see illustration).
23 Locate the two gears on the crankshaft
and camshaft and press them firmly home.
Using a straight edge check that the timing
marks are still on the centre line.
24 Fit the camshaft gear retaining nut and
lockwasher, and tighten the nut while using a
screwdriver through one of the gear holes to
restrain the gear. Bend the lockwasher to lock
the nut (see illustrations).
6.22 Timing gear alignment marks
(arrowed) and centre line
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9
6.24a Tightening the camshaft gear
retaining nut
6.24b Camshaft gear retaining nut locked,
and timing marks aligned
25 Fit the chain tensioner and tighten the
bolts, while keeping firm thumb pressure
against the top of the bracket to provide the
preload (see illustration).
26 Locate the oil thrower on the crankshaft
with the side marked “F” facing outwards.
27 Stick the timing cover gasket to the front
plate, then fit the timing cover and retain it
with two upper bolts inserted loosely.
28 Oil the timing cover oil seal, then
temporarily fit the crankshaft pulley to
centralise the timing cover. Insert and tighten
evenly the upper retaining bolts, then remove
the pulley and fit the lower bolts.
29 Fit the crankshaft pulley and damper on
the crankshaft followed by the lockwasher
and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the specified
torque (see illustration). If the engine is
removed, place a block of wood between a
crankshaft web and the crankcase, if the
engine is in the car, select top gear and apply
the handbrake.
30 Bend the lockwasher to lock the bolt.
Remove the block of wood as applicable.
31 On the 1275 cc engine, connect the
crankcase ventilation hose to the oil separator
on the timing cover.
32 If the engine is in the car, refitting is a
reversal of the removal procedure.
them in strict order so that they can be refitted
in their original positions. Identify them if
necessary. Replace as necessary.
7 Tappets (998 cc engine only) removal and refitting
Note: For information on tappets for the
1275cc engine, refer to Chapter 2B, Section 7.
If the engine is still in the car first carry out the
following operations:
a) Disconnect the battery negative lead.
b) Remove the inlet and exhaust manifold
complete with carburettor.
c) Remove the rocker cover.
d) Remove the rocker shaft and pushrods.
6.25 Fitting the timing chain tensioner
Refitting
4 Lubricate the tappets with engine oil and
insert them in their original locations.
5 Refit the side covers together with new
gaskets, and insert the bolts with the seals
and cup washers. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
6 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
to the oil separator.
7 If the engine is in the car, refitting is a
reversal of the removal procedure, but adjust
the valve clearances as described in Section 5.
Retighten the cylinder head nuts referring to
Section 4.
8 Crankcase ventilation system description
1 The
crankcase
ventilation
system
comprises hoses from the crankcase area
linked and connected to a port on the
carburettor (see illustration). One hose is
attached to an oil separator bolted to the
flywheel housing (manual gearbox models
only), and the other is attached to an oil
separator on the cylinder block side cover
(998 cc) or timing cover (1275 cc).
2 Periodically the hoses should be examined
for security and condition. Cleaning them will
not normally be necessary except when the
engine is well worn and sludge has
accumulated.
6.29 Tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt
3 The crankcase ventilation system on MG
Turbo models is modified slightly from the
standard design in order to prevent the
turbocharger pressurising the crankcase (see
illustration).
4 At low engine speeds and on the overrun,
fumes are drawn into the inlet manifold
through the one-way restrictor valve.
5 As the engine speed rises and the inlet
manifold becomes pressurised, the one-way
restrictor valve closes. Fumes are then
inducted by way of the regulator valve into the
air cleaner.
6 The valves should be cleaned periodically
and renewed if their operation is suspect.
Removal
1 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose
from the oil separator on the side cover
nearest the timing chain.
2 Unbolt the side covers from the cylinder
block and remove the gaskets. Remove the
bolts, cup washers, and seals from the side
covers.
3 Lift the tappets from their bores, keeping
8.3 Crankcase ventilation system fitted to
MG Turbo models
8.1 Showing the location of the crankcase
ventilation hoses (1275 cc engine)
1
2
3
4
5
Oil separator (flywheel housing)
Oil separator (timing cover)
Regulator valve
One-way restrictor valve
Air cleaner nozzle
2A
2A•10 Engine in-car repair procedures
10.2 Oil cooler - air-cooled type
1 Cooler unit (automatic
transmission)
2 Hose to engine block
3 Hose to transmission case
4 Adapter
5 Mounting bushes
6 Cooler unit (MG Turbo)
7 Hose to engine block
8 Hose to oil filter
9 Mounting brackets
10 Oil coolers - description
10.1 Oil cooler - water-cooled type
1 Oil cooler
2 Oil filter
3 Fixing bolt
4 Sealing rings
5 Coolant inlet
6 Coolant outlet
9 Flywheel/torque converter ring
gear - examination, removal and
refitting
Examination
1 Examine the clutch driven plate mating
surface of the flywheel with reference to
Chapter 6, Sections 6 or 7.
2 Check the starter ring gear teeth; if they are
chipped or worn the ring gear must be
renewed. Although the procedure is identical
for the flywheel and torque converter, it is
recommended that the work on the torque
converter is entrusted to a Rover dealer.
Removal
3 Partially drill the ring gear from the side,
then carefully split it with a cold chisel and
remove it, taking precautions to prevent injury
from flying fragments.
Refitting
4 Heat the new ring to 392°F (250°C) in an
electric oven, then quickly fit it to the
flywheel/torque converter. Allow the ring to
cool naturally without quenching.
12 Oil cooler (air-cooled) removal and refitting
Description
Removal
1 Two types of oil cooler may be encountered.
The first type, fitted to MG 1300 and Vanden
Plas models, uses engine coolant as the heat
exchange medium (see illustration).
2 This type of cooler fits in between the oil
filter head and the oil filter itself. The second
type of cooler, fitted to Automatic and MG
Turbo models, uses air as the heat exchange
medium and is similar in appearance to a
coolant radiator (see illustration).
3 Depending on operating territory and
production date, oil coolers may be
encountered on models other than those
mentioned above.
1 Remove the air cleaner assembly to
improve access.
2 Disconnect and plug the hoses at the
cooler. Be prepared for oil spillage from the
cooler itself.
3 Release the cooler from its mounting
brackets and bushes. (In the case of the MG
Turbo, release the top bracket from the body
and remove the bracket and bush with the
cooler).
4 With the cooler removed, flush it through
with petrol or cellulose thinners if internal
blockage or contamination was the reason for
removal. Blow through with compressed air to
dry out the cleaning solvent. Clean the fins
with paraffin or detergent. Do not forget to
flush the hoses too if necessary.
11 Oil cooler (water-cooled) removal and refitting
Removal
Refitting
1 Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3).
2 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the oil
cooler.
3 Remove the oil filter cartridge as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Unscrew the centre fixing bolt and remove
the oil cooler. Recover the sealing ring if this
did not come away with the cooler.
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use new mounting bushes if the
old ones were in poor condition. On MG
Turbo models, fit the outlet hose in line with
the oil cooler, and the inlet hose offset at an
angle of 10°.
6 Top-up the engine oil level (by
approximately the amount lost). Start the
engine and check for leaks. On MG Turbo
models, do not rev the engine for at least 10
seconds after this start-up, otherwise there is
a danger of damaging the turbocharger
bearings. Recheck the oil level after stopping
the engine.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use a new sealing ring and a new
oil filter cartridge. Refill the cooling system
and check the engine oil level after running
the engine.
2B•1
Chapter 2 Part B:
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
Contents
Ancillary components - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Camshaft - removal, examination and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal, examination and refitting .10
Cylinder block and crankcase - examination and overhaul . . . . . . . .11
Cylinder head - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine - adjustment after major overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Engine - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Engine/gearbox assembly - removal, examination and refitting . . . . .3
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Major operations only possible after removal of the engine/gearbox
from the car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Oil pump - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Pistons and connecting rods - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . .9
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
998 cc engine
Oil pump:
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Outer rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inner rotor endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Outer rotor-to-body clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rotor lobe clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bi-rotor
0.005 in (0.127 mm)
0.005 in (0.127 mm)
0.010 in (0.254 mm)
0.006 in (0.152 mm)
Crankshaft
Main journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main bearing running clearance:
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main journal minimum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin journal diameter:
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin minimum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.7505 to 1.7512 in (44.46 to 44.48 mm)
0.0007 to 0.0029 in (0.018 to 0.074 mm)
0.001 to 0.003 in (0.025 to 0.068 mm)
1.7305 in (43.96 mm)
1.6252 to 1.6259 in (41.28 to 41.298 mm)
0.001 to 0.0025 in (0.025 to 0.064 mm)
0.001 to 0.0027 in (0.025 to 0.069 mm)
1.6052 in (40.77 mm)
0.002 to 0.003 in (0.051 to 0.076 mm)
Connecting rods
Length between centres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5.75 in (146.05 mm)
Pistons
Skirt clearance in cylinder:
Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oversizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.0021 to 0.0033 in (0.053 to 0.084 mm)
0.0004 to 0.0014 in (0.010 to 0.036 mm)
0.010, 0.020, 0.030, and 0.040 in (0.254, 0.508, 0.762, and 1.016 mm)
Piston rings
Clearance in groove:
Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2nd and 3rd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
End gap:
Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil control rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.002 to 0.0035 in (0.051 to 0.089 mm)
0.002 to 0.004 in (0.051 to 0.102 mm)
0.007 to 0.012 in (O.178 to 0.305 mm)
0.014 to 0.041 in (0.38 to 1.04 mm)
2B
2B•2 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
Gudgeon pins
Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Running clearance in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hand push at 20°C (68°F)
0.0007 to 0.001 in (0.02 to 0.03 mm)
Camshaft
Journal diameter:
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Running clearance in bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve lift:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tappet outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.6655 to 1.6660 in (42.304 to 42.316 mm)
1.62275 to 1.62325 in (41.218 to 41.231 mm)
1.37275 to 1.3735 in (34.868 to 34.887 mm)
0.001 to 0.00225 in (0.025 to 0.057 mm)
0.003 to 0.007 in (0.076 to 0.178 mm)
0.318 in (8.08 mm)
0.300 in (7.62 mm)
0.812 in (20.62 mm)
Rocker gear
Rocker shaft diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clearance in rockers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.5615 to 0.5625 in (14.26 to 14.29 mm)
0.0005 to 0.0025 in (0.01 to 0.07 mm)
Valves
Seat angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Head diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stem diameter:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clearance in guide:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve guides:
Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fitted height above head:
Early model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982-on (valves modified for inlet valve oil seals) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve springs:
Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve timing (at valve clearance of 0.021 in/0.53 mm):
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
45°
1.093 to 1.098 in (27.76 to 27.89 mm)
1.000 to 1.005 in (25.40 to 25.53 mm)
0.2793 to 0.2798 in (7.094 to 7.107 mm)
0.2788 to 0.2793 in (7.082 to 7.094 mm)
0.0015 to 0.0025 in (0.038 to 0.064 mm)
0.002 to 0.003 in (0.051 to 0.076 mm)
1.687 in (42.85 mm)
0.470 to 0.471 in (11.94 to 11.96 mm)
0.2813 to 0.2818 in (7.145 to 7.158 mm)
0.594 in (15.09 mm)
0.540 in (13.72 mm)
1.95 in (49.53 mm)
9° BTDC
41° ABDC
49° BBDC
11° ATDC
Valve clearance, inlet and exhaust (cold):
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All models 1983 to 1986 (except 1983 1.0, L, HLE and City) . . . . . . .
1983 1.0, L, HLE and City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All models - 1986 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.012 in (0.30 mm)
0.012 to 0.014 in (0.30 to 0.36 mm)
0.012 in (0.30 mm)
0.011 to 0.013 in (0.27 to 0.33 mm)
1275 cc engine (except MG Turbo)
Note: Specifications as 998 cc engine except for the following differences:
Crankshaft
Main journal diameter:
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on:
Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Green colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yellow colour code or no colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main bearing running clearance:
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main bearing shell thickness:
Yellow colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Green colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Red colour code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2.0011 to 2.0017 in (50.83 to 50.84 mm)
2.0005 to 2.0009 in (50.81 to 50.82 mm)
2.0009 to 2.0013 in (50.82 to 50.83 mm)
2.0012 to 2.0017 in (50.83 to 50.84 mm)
0.0003 to 0.0024 in (0.008 to 0.076 mm)
0.0007 to 0.0023 in (0.017 to 0.058 mm)
0.0713 to 0.0717 in (1.811 to 1.821 mm)
0.0717 to 0.0721 in (1.821 to 1.831 mm)
0.0721 to 0.0725 in (1.831 to 1.841 mm)
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•3
Crankshaft (continued)
Main journal minimum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin running clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankpin minimum regrind diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.9811 in (50.32 mm)
1.7497 to 1.7504 in (44.44 to 44.46 mm)
0.0015 to 0.0032 in (0.0381 to 0.0813 mm)
1.7297 in (43.93 mm)
Pistons
Skirt clearance in cylinder:
Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oversizes available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.0029 to 0.0045 in (0.074 to 0.114 mm)
0.0009 to 0.0025 in (0.023 to 0.064 mm)
0.010 and 0.020 in (0.254 and 0.508 mm)
Piston rings
Clearance in groove:
Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
End gap:
Top compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil control rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.0015 to 0.0035 in (0.038 to 0.089 mm)
0.0015 to 0.0035 in (0.038 to 0.089 mm)
0.010 to 0.017 in (0.25 to 0.45 mm)
0.008 to 0.013 in (0.20 to 0.33 mm)
0.015 to 0.041 in (0.38 to 1.04 mm)
Gudgeon pins
Fit in piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Interference fit in connecting rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drop through to hand push at 20°C (68°F)
0.0008 to 0.0015 in (0.02 to 0.04 mm)
Camshaft
Valve lift:
Inlet and exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tappet outside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.318 (8.08 mm)
0.812 in (20.62 mm)
Valves
Head diameter:
Inlet (except 1275 Sport, MG and Vanden Plas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet (1275 Sport, MG and Vanden Plas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve guides (fitted height above head) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve timing, at valve clearance of 0.021 in (0.53 mm):
Early models:
HLE:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG 1300:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on:
All models except 1275 Sport, MG and Vanden Plas:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1275 Sport, MG and Vanden Plas:
Inlet opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inlet closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust opens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust closes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.307 to 1.312 in (33.20 to 33.32 mm)
1.401 to 1.406 in (35.58 to 35.71 mm)
1.1515 to 1.1565 in (29.25 to 29.38 mm)
0.540 in (13.72 mm)
9° BTDC
41° ABDC
49° BBDC
11° ATDC
16° BTDC
56° ABDC
59° BBDC
29° ATDC
9° BTDC
41° ABDC
55° BBDC
17° ATDC
16° BTDC
56° ABDC
59° BBDC
29° ATDC
Valve clearances (cold):
1982 and 1983 MG:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 Vanden Plas (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 L, HLE and 1.3 automatic (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 to 1986 MG and Vanden Plas manual (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . .
All other models (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on (inlet and exhaust):
All models except those shown below . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG, Vanden Plas with manual gearbox and 1275 Sport . . . . . . . . . .
0.012 to 0.014 in (0.30 to 0.36 mm)
0.015 to 0.017 in (0.38 to 0.43 mm)
0.012 in (0.30 mm)
0.012 in (0.30 mm)
0.013 to 0.015 in (0.33 to 0.38 mm)
0.012 to 0.014 in (0.30 to 0.36 mm)
0.011 to 0.013 in (0.027 to 0.33 mm)
0.013 to 0.015 in (0.33 to 0.38 mm)
2B
2B•4 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
1275 cc engine (MG Turbo)
Valve clearances (cold):
1982 and 1983:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984-on:
Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0.014 in (0.35 mm)
0.016 in (0.40 mm)
0.012 to 0.014 in (0.30 to 0.35 mm)
0.014 to 0.016 in (0.35 to 0.40 mm)
Valves
Stem diameter:
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clearance in guide:
Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve guides:
Inside diameter (reamed) - exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve springs free length:
Inner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 Engine overhaul - general
information
Note: An engine which has had regular and
frequent oil and filter changes, as well as other
required maintenance, should give many
thousands of miles of reliable service. Before
beginning the engine overhaul, read through
the entire procedure, to familiarise yourself
with the scope and requirements of the job.
General
It is not always easy to determine when, or
if, an engine should be completely
overhauled, as a number of factors must be
considered.
High mileage is not necessarily an
indication that an overhaul is needed, while
low mileage does not preclude the need for an
overhaul. Frequency of servicing is probably
the most important consideration. An engine
which has had regular and frequent oil and
filter changes, as well as other required
maintenance, should give many thousands of
miles of reliable service. Conversely, a
neglected engine may require an overhaul
very early in its life.
Excessive oil consumption is an indication
that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure
that oil leaks are not responsible before
deciding that the rings and/or guides are
worn.
Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in
place of the oil pressure switch, and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the
main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil
pump, are probably worn out.
Loss of power, rough running, knocking or
metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear
noise, and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if
they are all present at the same time. If a
0.3131 to 0.3137 in (7.955 to 7.970 mm)
0.0031 to 0.0032 in (0.079 to 0.081 mm)
0.3164 to 0.3169 in (8.036 to 8.049 mm)
1.703 in (43.256 mm)
1.740 in (44196 mm)
complete service does not remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only
solution.
An engine overhaul involves restoring all
internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are
rebored (where necessary) and the pistons
and the piston rings are renewed. New main
and big-end bearings are generally fitted; if
necessary, the crankshaft may be renewed or
reground, to restore the journals. The valves
are also serviced as well, since they are
usually in less-than-perfect condition at this
point. While the engine is being overhauled,
other components, such as the distributor
(where applicable), starter and alternator, can
be overhauled as well. The end result should
be an as-new engine that will give many
trouble-free miles.
Critical cooling system components such
as the hoses, thermostat and water pump
should be renewed when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or
leaking. Also, it is a good idea to renew the oil
pump whenever the engine is overhauled.
Before beginning the engine overhaul, read
through the entire procedure, to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if
you follow carefully all of the instructions,
have the necessary tools and equipment, and
pay close attention to all specifications. It can,
however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
engineering works for repair or reconditioning.
Check on the availability of parts, and make
sure that any necessary special tools and
equipment are obtained in advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring
tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be renewed. Often the
engineering works will handle the inspection
of parts, and will offer advice concerning
reconditioning and renewal.
Always wait until the engine has been
completely dismantled, and until all
components
(especially
the
cylinder
block/crankcase and the crankshaft) have
been inspected, before deciding what service
and repair operations must be performed by
an engineering works. The condition of these
components will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine, or to buy a
reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore,
purchase parts or have overhaul work done
on other components until they have been
thoroughly inspected. As a general rule, time
is the primary cost of an overhaul, so it does
not pay to fit worn or sub-standard parts.
As a final note, to ensure maximum life and
minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.
2 Major operations only possible
after removal of the
engine/gearbox from the car
Note: The engine and gearbox assembly must
be lifted from the car as a complete unit, then
the engine separated from the gearbox on the
bench.
The following operations can only be
carried out after removal of the engine and
gearbox from the car:
a) Removal of the camshaft.
b) Removal of the oil pump.
c) Removal of the piston/connecting rod
assemblies.
d) Renewal of the crankshaft main bearings
and big-end bearings.
e) Removal of the tappets (cam followers) on
the 1275 cc engine only.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•5
3.3 Removing the solenoid
3 Engine/gearbox assembly removal, examination and
refitting
Removal
1 Remove the bonnet (refer to Chapter 11, if
necessary) and place it securely to one side.
2 Disconnect the battery negative then
positive leads, and remove the battery as
described in Chapter 5.
3 Remove the solenoid and place it to one
side, then unbolt and remove the battery
carrier (see illustration).
4 Drain the cooling system (Chapter 3).
5 Unscrew the drain plug and drain the
engine/gearbox oil into a container. Refit the
drain plug.
6 Remove the radiator (Chapter 3).
7 Unbolt and remove the crossmember stay.
Disconnect the bonnet lock cable and remove
the crossmember.
8 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4).
9 Disconnect the exhaust system from the
manifold with reference to Chapter 4.
10 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the
flywheel housing (see illustration). Disconnect
and remove the starter supply lead.
11 Disconnect and remove the hose from the
water pump, expansion tank, and heater.
12 Disconnect the expansion tank vent pipe
and heater hose from the thermostat housing.
13 Disconnect and plug the fuel supply hose
from the fuel pump.
14 Where fitted, disconnect the brake servo
vacuum hose from the inlet manifold.
15 Remove the clutch slave cylinder (if
applicable), as described in Chapter 6, but
leave it attached to the hydraulic hose.
16 Identify then disconnect the wiring from
the coil low tension terminals, alternator,
water temperature sender unit, and oil
pressure switch.
17 Remove the cross-head screws and
withdraw the air cleaner elbow from the
carburettor. Remove the gasket.
18 Unscrew the speedometer cable from the
gearbox and place it to one side.
19 Disconnect the choke and throttle cables
from the carburettor (Chapter 4).
20 Turn the steering as necessary to allow
3.10 Engine earth lead location
3.27 Suitable engine lifting bracket
access from the front, and remove the
rebound buffers from the subframe on both
sides. The buffers are located beneath the
suspension upper arms and are secured by
two cross-head screws.
21 Insert distance pieces such as suitably
sized nuts in place of the buffers to retain the
suspension in the normal running position.
22 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”).
23 On manual gearbox models, drive out the
roll pin and disconnect the gear selector rod
from the selector shaft. Unbolt the steady rod
from the gearbox.
24 On automatic transmission models,
unbolt the bellcrank cover plate from the
right-hand side of the gearbox and disconnect
the selector cable (refer to Chapter 7B if
necessary). Disconnect the pipes from the oil
cooler.
25 On all models where fitted, unbolt the
exhaust downpipe bracket from the gearbox.
26 The driveshaft inner joints must now be
released from the spring rings on the
differential side gears. To do this use two
levers but take care not to damage the
differential side covers. If difficulty is
experienced, rotate the front wheel slightly to
a different position. Once released, the inner
joints can be prevented from engaging the
spring rings again by wrapping a length of
thick wire or plastic tubing around the
driveshaft.
27 Attach a hoist to the engine/gearbox unit;
two brackets fitted to the valve cover nuts
may be used for lifting (see illustration). Take
the weight of the unit.
28 Unscrew and remove the engine front
mounting bolts, and remove the spacers,
noting their location. Note that during 1982,
the four point engine mounting system was
replaced with a three point system, as shown
(see illustrations).
29 Unscrew and remove the engine rear
mounting nuts, right-hand side from the top
3.28a Four-point engine mounting
components (early models)
1 Right-hand rear bracket
2 Right-hand rear mounting
3 Right-hand front bracket
stiffener
4 Right-hand front bracket
5 Left-hand rear mounting
6 Left-hand rear bracket
7 Buffer plate
8 Right-hand front mounting
9 Left-hand front bracket
10 Left-hand front mounting
2B
2B•6 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
3.28b Three-point engine
mountings. Manual transmission
version shown - automatic is
similar
3.28c Left-hand engine mounting
(from above)
3.28d Left-hand front engine mounting
(from below)
and left-hand side from underneath (see
illustrations).
30 Raise the engine/gearbox unit from the
engine compartment and at the same time
lever the driveshaft inner joints from the
differential side gears. Make sure that all wires,
cables, and hoses have been disconnected,
and take care not to damage any component
mounted on the bulkhead or engine
compartment panels (see illustrations).
3.28e Right-hand front engine mounting
(from below)
3.28f Right-hand rear engine mounting
fitted to MG Turbo models
1 Subframe bracket 3 Snubber
2 Mounting rubber
4 Engine bracket
3.29b Right-hand rear engine mounting
(from below)
3.29c Left-hand rear engine mounting
(from below)
31 Lower the units onto a workbench or a
large piece of wood placed on the floor.
32 Refer to Chapters 7A and 7B for
separation of the gearbox/transmission.
3.29a Right-hand rear engine mounting
(from above) - engine removed
3.30a Removing the engine/gearbox
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•7
3.30b Engine compartment with
engine/gearbox removed
Examination
33 With the engine completely stripped,
clean all the components and examine them
for wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the following Sections. Renew
main and big-end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless you know that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
Refitting
34 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following additional
points:
a) Insert the left-hand side driveshaft into the
differential unit first, then twist the engine
and insert the right-hand side driveshaft.
b) Adjust the choke and throttle cables
(Chapter 4).
c) Refill the engine/gearbox with oil.
d) Refill the cooling system (Chapter 3).
e) On automatic transmission models adjust
the selector cable (Chapter 7B).
4 Engine - dismantling and
reassembly
5.1a Left-hand rear engine mounting
5.1b Oil pressure switch
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.
7 When possible, refit nuts, bolts, and
washers in their location after being removed,
as this helps to protect the threads and will
also be helpful when reassembling the engine.
8 Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
a) Inlet and exhaust manifold and
carburettor (Chapter 4).
b) Fuel pump (Chapter 4).
c) Alternator (Chapter 5).
d) HT leads and spark plugs (Chapter 5).
e) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
f) Rear engine mountings and brackets (see
illustration).
g) Distributor (Chapter 5).
h) Dipstick.
i) Oil pressure switch (see illustration) and
water temperature switch.
j) Water pump (Chapter 3).
k) Thermostat (Chapter 3).
Reassembly
9 The following sections deal with examining
and replacing the various components,
however note the following.
10 To ensure maximum life with minimum
trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must
everything be correctly assembled, but it must
also be spotlessly clean. All oilways must be
clear, and locking washers and spring
washers must be fitted where indicated. Oil all
bearings and other working surfaces
thoroughly with engine oil during assembly.
11 Before assembly begins, renew any bolts
or studs with damaged threads.
12 Gather together a torque wrench, oil can,
clean rag, and a set of engine gaskets and oil
seals, together with a new oil filter cartridge.
5 Ancillary components - general
Dismantling
1 If possible, mount the engine on a stand for
the dismantling procedure, but failing this,
support it in an upright position with blocks of
wood placed under each side of the
crankcase.
2 Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3 Avoid working with the engine directly on a
concrete floor, as grit presents a real source
of trouble.
4 As parts are removed, clean them in a
paraffin bath. However, do not immerse parts
with internal oilways in paraffin as it is difficult
to remove, usually requiring a high pressure
hose. Clean oilways with nylon pipe cleaners.
5 It is advisable to have containers to hold
small items according to their use, as this will
help when reassembling the engine and also
prevent possible losses.
6 Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view to using
General
1 With the engine separated from the
gearbox, the externally mounted ancillary
components can be removed. For further
details on these items refer to the appropriate
Chapter.
6.1 Removing the valve split collets
6 Cylinder head - dismantling,
overhaul and reassembly
2B
Note: For details on the cylinder head removal
and refitting, refer to Chapter 2A.
Dismantling
1 Using a valve spring compressor, compress
each valve spring in turn until the split collets
can be removed (see illustration). Release
the compressor and remove the cup and
spring. If the cups are difficult to release, do
not continue to tighten the compressor, but
gently tap the top of the tool with a hammer.
Always make sure that the compressor is held
firmly over the cup.
2 On the 1275 cc engine remove the oil seals
from the inlet valve guides (see illustration).
A small seal may also be fitted at the bottom
of the collet groove on the valve stems.
6.2 Removing an inlet valve guide oil seal
(1275 cc engine)
2B•8 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
6.3a Removing an inlet valve
6.3b Valve components
3 Remove each valve from the combustion
chambers keeping them in their order of
removal, together with the respective valve
springs and cups (see illustrations). Identify
each valve according to the cylinder,
remembering that No 1 cylinder is at the
thermostat end of the cylinder head.
11 Smear a trace of coarse carborundum
paste on the seat face and press a suction
grinding tool onto the valve head. With a
semi-rotary action, grind the valve head to its
seat, lifting the valve occasionally to
redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull
matt even surface is produced on both the
valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste
and repeat the process with fine carborundum
paste as before. A light spring placed under
the valve head will greatly ease this operation.
When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey
matt finish is produced on both the valve and
seat, the grinding operation is complete.
12 Scrape away all carbon from the valve
head and stem, and clean away all traces of
grinding compound. Clean the valves and
seats with a paraffin soaked rag, then wipe
with a clean rag.
13 If the valve guides are worn, indicated by
a side-to-side motion of the valve, new guides
must be fitted. To do this, use a mandrel to
press the worn guides downwards and out
through the combustion chamber. Press the
new guides into the cylinder head in the same
direction until they are at the specified fitted
height (see illustration).
14 If the original valve springs have been in
use for 20 000 miles (32 000 km) or more,
renew them. Where fitted, the inlet valve oil
seals should also be renewed whenever the
cylinder head is dismantled.
15 Examine the pushrods and rocker shaft
assembly for wear and renew them as
necessary. Dismantling and reassembly of the
rocker components is straightforward (see
illustration).
Overhaul
4 The operation will normally only be required
at comparatively high mileage. However, if
persistent pinking occurs and performance
has deteriorated even though the engine
adjustments are correct, decarbonising and
valve grinding may be required.
5 With the cylinder head removed, use a
scraper to remove the carbon from the
combustion chambers and ports. Remove all
traces of gasket from the cylinder head
surface, then wash it thoroughly with paraffin.
6 Use a straight edge and feeler blade to
check that the cylinder head surface is not
distorted. If it is, it must be resurfaced by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
7 If the engine is still in the car, clean the
piston crowns and cylinder bore upper edges,
but make sure that no carbon drops between
the pistons and bores. To do this, locate two
of the pistons at the top of their bores and
seal off the remaining bores with paper and
masking tape. Press a little grease between
the two pistons and their bores to collect any
carbon dust; this can be wiped away when
the piston is lowered. To prevent carbon
build-up, polish the piston crown with metal
polish, but remove all traces of the polish
afterwards.
8 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting
and burning, especially the exhaust valve
heads. Renew any valve which is badly burnt.
Examine the valve seats at the same time. If
the pitting is very slight, it can be removed by
grinding the valve heads and seats together
with coarse, then fine, grinding paste.
9 Where excessive pitting has occurred, the
valve seats must be recut or renewed by a
suitably equipped engineering works.
10 Valve grinding is carried out as follows.
Place the cylinder head upside down on a
bench with a block of wood at each end to
give clearance for the valve stems.
6.13 Valve guide fitted height dimension
“A”
Arrow indicates direction of removal and
refitting
Reassembly
16 The valve stem oil seals fitted to the larger
engine, are now fitted to the smaller engine as
well. This has the effect of reducing oil
consumption.
17 The fitting of the seals has also required
the fitting of modified valves (with cotter
grooves nearer the end of the stem). The valve
spring seat has also been raised by 0.05 in
(1.2 mm).
18 New type valves and seals can be fitted to
old type cylinder heads, in complete sets only,
with the addition of a shim 0.05 in (1.2 mm)
thick underneath each spring. These shims
may also be found already fitted to engines
which left the factory with new type valves
and seals in unmodified heads.
19 Fit the valves in their original sequence or,
if new valves have been obtained, to the seat
to which they have been ground.
20 Oil the valve stems liberally and, on
the 1275 cc engine, fit the oil seals to the inlet
valve guides and collet grooves where
applicable.
21 Working on one valve, fit the spring and
cup, then compress the spring with the
compressor and insert the split collets.
Release the compressor and remove it.
22 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
valves. Tap the end of each valve stem with a
non-metallic mallet to settle the collets.
7 Camshaft - removal,
examination and refitting
Removal
6.15 Rocker shaft components
1 Remove the engine and gearbox as
described in Section 3. It is not necessary to
separate the engine from the gearbox, unless
the tappets are to be removed on the 1275 cc
engine.
2 Remove the rocker cover, rocker shaft, and
pushrods.
3 On the 998 cc engine, remove the tappets
as described in Chapter 2A.
4 On both the 998 cc and 1275 cc engines,
remove the distributor (Chapter 5) and the fuel
pump (Chapter 4).
5 Using a 5⁄16 in bolt, remove the distributor
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•9
7.5 Removing the distributor driveshaft
driveshaft from the cylinder block (see
illustration).
6 Remove the timing cover, chain, and gears
as described in Chapter 2A.
7 On the 1275cc engine, invert the engine so
that the tappets are clear of the camshaft.
8 Unbolt the camshaft locating plate from the
engine front plate (see illustration).
9 Withdraw the camshaft from the timing
chain end of the cylinder block, taking care
not to damage the three camshaft bearings as
the lobes of the cams pass through them (see
illustration).
10 If the 1275 cc engine is separated from
the gearbox, remove the tappets keeping
them identified for location (see illustration).
If the 1275 cc engine is not separated from
the gearbox, do not place it upright otherwise
the tappets will fall into the gearbox.
7.10 Removing the tappets
(1275 cc engine)
7.21a Distributor driveshaft fitting
procedure
1 Initial fitting position 2 Fitted position
7.8 Removing the camshaft locating plate
7.9 Removing the camshaft on the 1275 cc
engine (crankshaft removed for clarity)
Examination
11 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces,
cam lobes, and skew gear for wear. If
excessive, renew the shaft.
12 Check the locating plate for wear and
renew it if necessary.
13 Check the camshaft bearings for wear
and if necessary remove them with a length of
tubing. Fit the new prefinished bearings with
their oil holes aligned with the oilways in the
cylinder block.
14 Examine the tappets for wear and renew
them if necessary.
Refitting
15 If the 1275 cc engine is separated from
the gearbox, lubricate the tappets with engine
oil and insert them in their original locations
with the engine inverted.
16 Oil the camshaft bearings and carefully
insert the camshaft from the timing chain end
of the cylinder block. Make sure that the oil
pump spindle engages the slot in the
camshaft.
17 Fit the locating plate to the front plate and
tighten the bolts evenly.
18 Temporarily refit the camshaft sprocket
then, using a dial gauge, vernier calipers, or
feeler blade and bridging piece, check that
the camshaft endfloat is within the specified
limits. If not, renew the locating plate.
19 With the engine upright, refit the timing
cover, chain, and gears as described in
Chapter 2A.
20 Turn the engine until No 1 piston is at top
7.21b Distributor driveshaft fitting
procedure for 1985-on 1.3 models
1 Initial fitting position 2 Fitted position (TDC)
dead centre (TDC) on the compression stroke.
If the cylinder head is not yet fitted, use two
pushrods to determine the point when No 4
cylinder valves are rocking - in this position
No 1 piston is at TDC compression.
21 Using the 5⁄16 in bolt, insert the distributor
driveshaft into the cylinder block with the
larger segment uppermost, and the slot in the
4 o’clock position. As the driveshaft engages
the skew gear on the camshaft, it will turn
anti-clockwise to the 2 o’clock position.
Remove the bolt (see illustrations).
22 Refit the distributor (Chapter 5) and the
fuel pump (Chapter 4).
23 On the 998 cc engine refit the tappets as
described in Chapter 2A.
24 Refit the pushrods and rocker shaft and
adjust the tappets as described in Chapter 2A.
Refit the rocker cover.
25 Refit the engine and gearbox as described
in Section 3.
8 Oil pump - removal, overhaul
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the engine and gearbox as
described in Section 3.
2 Remove the flywheel/torque converter
housing with reference to Chapters 7A and 7B.
3 On automatic transmission models only,
remove the oil feed pipe from the oil pump.
7.21c Installed position of the distributor
driveshaft
2B
2B•10 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
8.4a Removing the oil pump . . .
8.4b . . . and gasket
8.5 Removing the oil pump cover
4 On all models, flatten the lockwashers, then
unbolt the oil pump from the cylinder block
and remove the gasket (see illustrations).
cover and tighten the retaining screw.
Operate the pump in clean engine oil to prime
it.
Overhaul
Refitting
14 If the engine and gearbox were removed
purposely to remove the oil pump, refit the
flywheel/torque converter housing with
reference to Chapter 7A and 7B, and refit the
engine and gearbox as described in Section 3.
5 Remove the retaining screw and withdraw
the cover from the locating dowels (see
illustration).
6 Lift the two rotors from the pump body.
7 Clean the components with paraffin and
wipe dry.
8 Refit the rotors to the pump body, making
sure that the chamfer on the outer rotor enters
the body first.
9 Using a feeler blade, and where necessary
a straight edge, check that the rotor
clearances are as given in the Specifications
(see illustrations). If any clearance is outside
that specified, or if damage is evident on any
component, renew the complete oil pump.
10 If the oil pump is serviceable, refit the
Note: Prime the pump with clean engine oil
before fitting.
11 Make sure that the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block are clean, then fit the
oil pump together with a new gasket, and
tighten the retaining bolts evenly to the
specified torque (see “Specifications” in
Chapter 2A). Make sure that the cut-outs in
the gasket are correctly aligned with the
pump, and, if the camshaft is already in
position, make sure that the pump spindle
engages the slot in the camshaft.
12 Bend the lockwashers to lock the bolts.
13 On automatic transmission models only,
fit the oil feed pipe together with new O-rings
if necessary.
8.9a Checking the oil pump inner rotor
endfloat . . .
8.9b . . . outer rotor endfloat . . .
8.9c . . . outer rotor clearance . . .
8.9d . . . rotor lobe clearance (central) . . .
8.9e . . . and rotor lobe clearance (off
centre)
8.9f Oil pump rotor lobe clearance
checking points
9 Pistons and connecting rods removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the engine and gearbox as
described in Section 3.
2 Separate the engine from the gearbox as
described in Chapters 7A and 7B.
3 Remove the cylinder head (Chapter 2A).
4 Check the big-end caps for identification
marks. If necessary, use a centre punch on
the caps and connecting rods to identify
them; mark them on the camshaft side to
ensure correct refitting.
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•11
9.6 Removing a big-end bearing cap
9.10 Piston and connecting rod
components (1275 cc engine)
5 Turn the crankshaft so that No 1 crankpin is
at its lowest point. Using a 1⁄2 in AF socket,
unscrew the big-end bearing bolts (998 cc) or
nuts (1275 cc).
6 Withdraw the cap complete with the
bearing shell (see illustration).
7 Using the handle of a hammer, tap the
piston and connecting rod from the bore and
withdraw it from the top of the cylinder block.
8 Loosely refit the cap to the connecting rod.
9 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs,
5 to 8 on No 4 piston and connecting rod,
then turn the crankshaft through half a turn
and repeat the procedure on No 2 and No 3
pistons.
9.17 Checking the compression ring
groove clearance (1275 cc engine)
11 If the pistons or connecting rods are to be
renewed on the 1275 cc engine and 1987-on
998 cc engines, it is recommended that this
work is carried out by a Rover dealer, who will
have the necessary tooling to extract the
gudgeon pins from the connecting rods.
12 To remove the pistons from the
connecting rods on the 998 cc engine, extract
the circlips and push out the gudgeon pin. If
the ambient temperature is below 20°C (68°F),
heat the piston in hot water first.
13 Check the small-end bushes for wear, and
if necessary have a Rover dealer fit and ream
new bushes.
14 Lubricate the gudgeon pin and bores with
graphite oil, then locate the connecting rod in
the piston as shown (see illustration), and
press in the gudgeon pin. Note that the
diagonal split on the connecting rod must face
the camshaft side of the piston. Fit the
circlips.
15 If new rings are to be fitted to the original
pistons, expand the old rings over the top of
the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves. Note that the oil
control ring is in three sections.
16 Before fitting the new rings to the piston,
insert them into the cylinder bore and use a
feeler blade to check that the end gaps are
within the specified limits.
17 After fitting the rings, check the
compression rings for groove clearances
using a feeler blade (see illustration). Make
sure that the word “Top”, where marked on
the compression rings, is towards the top of
9.19a Installing a big-end bearing shell
9.19b Lubricating a crankpin
Overhaul
10 Examine the pistons for ovality, scoring,
and scratches. Check the connecting rods for
wear and damage (see illustration).
9.14 Correct relationship of the piston and
connecting rod on the 998 cc engine
the piston. Arrange the compression ring gaps
at 90 degrees to each other on the camshaft
side of the piston.
Refitting
18 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the recesses in the connecting rods and
big-end caps.
19 Press the big-end bearing shells into the
connecting rods and caps in their correct
positions and oil them liberally (see
illustrations).
20 Fit a ring compressor to No 1 piston, then
insert the piston and connecting rod into No 1
cylinder. With No 1 crankpin at its lowest
point, drive the piston carefully into the
cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer,
and at the same time guide the connecting
rod onto the crankpin (see illustration). Make
sure that the “Front” mark on the piston
9.20a Installing a piston and connecting
rod
2B
2B•12 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
crown is facing the timing chain end of the
engine, and that the connecting rod offset is
as shown (see illustration).
21 Fit the big-end bearing cap in its
previously noted position, then tighten the
bolts (998 cc) or nuts (1275 cc) evenly to the
specified torque (see “Specifications” in
Chapter 2A).
22 Check that the crankshaft turns freely.
23 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs
20 to 22 for No 4 piston and connecting rod,
then turn the crankshaft through half a turn
and repeat the procedure on No 2 and No 3
pistons.
24 Refit the cylinder head as described in
Chapter 2A.
25 Refit the engine to the gearbox as
described in Chapters 7A and 7B.
26 Refit the engine and gearbox as described
in Section 3.
10 Crankshaft and main
bearings - removal,
examination and refitting
Removal
1 Follow the procedure for removing the
pistons and connecting rods described in
Section 9, but it is not necessary to completely
remove them from the cylinder block.
2 Remove the timing cover, chain, and gears
as described in Chapter 2A.
3 Unbolt the front plate from the engine, and
remove the gasket (see illustration). Invert
the engine.
9.20b Diagram showing connecting rod offset - arrowed
4 Check the main bearing caps for
identification marks, and if necessary use a
centre punch to identify them.
5 Before removing the crankshaft, check that
the endfloat is within the specified limits by
inserting a feeler blade between the centre
crankshaft web and the thrustwashers (see
illustration). This will indicate whether new
thrustwashers are required or not.
6 Unscrew the bolts and remove the main
bearing caps complete with bearing shells.
Recover the thrustwashers from the centre
main bearing cap.
7 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and
remove the remaining centre bearing
thrustwashers (see illustration).
8 Extract the bearing shells from the
crankcase recesses and the caps, and identify
them for location (see illustration).
10.3 Removing the engine front plate
9 Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.001 in (0.0254 mm) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
10 Crankshaft regrinding should be carried
out by an engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
11 If the crankshaft endfloat is more than the
maximum
specified
amount,
new
thrustwashers should be fitted to the centre
main bearing; these are usually supplied
together with the main and big-end bearings
on a reground crankshaft.
12 During 1982, modifications were made to
the cylinder block and main bearing caps. The
lower main bearing shells fitted to these
modified units are plain, i.e. they have no
central oil groove. Both engine sizes are
affected.
13 Make sure that the correct type shells are
obtained when engine overhaul is undertaken.
10.5 Checking the crankshaft endfloat
with a feeler blade
10.7 Removing the crankshaft
10.8 Removing a main bearing shell
Examination
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•13
10.21 Installing the centre main bearing
thrustwashers
The new and old type bearings are not
interchangeable.
14 Selective-fit main bearing shells are fitted
to all later 1275 cc engine crankshafts, the
journal diameters, main bearing bores and
shell thickness’ being grouped into three
tolerance bands that are identified by Red,
Green or Yellow colour codes.
15 The codes are in the form either of
appropriately-coloured dye or of the stamped
letter “R”, “G” or “Y”. The codes identifying
each crankshaft journal are located on the
adjacent web; note that all crankshafts
supplied in service are coded Green. If dye is
used to identify the bearing bores it is applied
to the appropriate cap, while if letters are used
they are stamped into the centre main bearing
block, their location respective to each other
showing the bearing to which they refer.
16 If the bearing shells are to be renewed
and both the cylinder block and crankshaft
are coded, select the shells according to the
accompanying table.
17 If the bearing shells are to be renewed but
the cylinder block is not coded, fit a set of
Green-coded shells, temporarily refit the
crankshaft and use Plastigage to check the
bearing running clearance. If the clearance is
excessive, fit a set of Red-coded shells; if it is
too small, fit a set of Yellow-coded shells.
18 If the crankshaft is thought to need
regrinding, seek the advice of a Rover dealer
as to whether undersize shells are available.
Cylinder block
code
Red
Red
Red
Green
Green
Green
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Crankshaft
code
cylinder block
Red
Green
Yellow
Red
Green
Yellow
Red
Green
Yellow
10.22 Installing the centre main bearing
cap and thrustwashers
Refitting
Note: Read Section 11, before proceeding.
19 Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the bearing recesses in both the cylinder
block and main bearing caps.
20 Press the main bearing shells into the
cylinder block and caps and oil them liberally.
21 Using a little grease, stick the
thrustwashers to each side of the centre main
bearings with their oilways facing away from
the bearing (see illustration). Similarly fit the
thrustwashers to the centre main bearing cap.
22 Lower the crankshaft into position, then fit
the main bearing caps in their previously
noted locations (see illustration).
23 Insert and tighten evenly the main bearing
cap bolts to the specified torque (see
“Specifications” in Chapter 2A) (see
illustration). Check that the crankshaft
rotates freely, then check that the endfloat is
within the specified limits by inserting a feeler
blade between the centre crankshaft web and
the thrustwashers.
24 Smear the front plate gasket with sealing
compound and locate it on the front of the
cylinder block. Fit the engine front plate and
tighten the two lower retaining bolts.
25 With the engine upright, refit the timing
cover, chain, and gears as described in
Chapter 2A.
26 Refit the pistons and connecting rods as
described in Section 9.
Upper (grooved)
bearing shell bearing cap
Red
Red
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Yellow
Yellow
Lower (plain)
bearing shell -
10.23 Tightening the main bearing cap
bolts
11 Cylinder block and crankcase
- examination and overhaul
Examination
1 The cylinder bores must be examined for
taper, ovality, scoring, and scratches. Start by
examining the top of the bores: if these are
worn, a slight ridge will be found which marks
the top of the piston ring travel. If the wear is
excessive, the engine will have had a high oil
consumption rate accompanied by blue
smoke from the exhaust.
2 If available, use an inside dial gauge to
measure the bore diameter just below the
ridge and compare it with the diameter at the
bottom of the bore, which is not subject to
wear. If the difference is more than 0.006 in
(0.152 mm), the cylinders will normally require
reboring with new oversize pistons fitted.
3 Provided the cylinder bore wear does not
exceed 0.008 in (0.203 mm), however, special
oil control rings and pistons can be fitted to
restore compression and stop the engine
burning oil.
Overhaul
4 If new pistons are being fitted to old bores,
it is essential to roughen the bore walls
slightly with fine glasspaper to enable the new
piston rings to bed in properly.
5 Thoroughly examine the crankcase and
cylinder block for cracks and damage and use
a piece of wire to probe all oilways and
waterways to ensure that they are
unobstructed.
Red
Green
Green
Red
Green
Yellow
Green
Green
Yellow
Main bearing shell identification table - see paragraph 16
11.7 Removing the oil pressure relief valve
2B
2B•14 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
6 Check the tappet bores for wear and
scoring; if excessive, they can be reamed and
oversize tappets fitted.
7 Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve cap
and remove the valve and spring (see
illustration). Check the valve seating for
excessive wear and check that the spring free
length is as specified. Renew the valve and
spring as necessary, and refit them to the
cylinder block.
12 Engine - adjustment after
major overhaul
Adjustment
1 With the engine/gearbox refitted to the car,
make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected and that no rags or
tools have been left in the engine
compartment.
2 If new pistons or crankshaft bearings have
been fitted, turn the carburettor slow running
screw in about half a turn to compensate for
the initial tightness of the new components.
3 Pull the choke fully out and start the engine.
This may take a little longer than usual as the
fuel pump and carburettor float chamber may
be empty.
4 As soon as the engine starts, push in the
choke until the engine runs at a fast tickover.
Check that the oil pressure light goes out.
5 Check the oil filter, fuel hoses, and water
hoses for leaks.
6 Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached, then adjust the slow
running as described in Chapter 4.
7 Drive the car for five to ten miles, then allow
the engine to cool and remove the valve
cover. Working in the order shown (see
illustration 4.3 in Chapter 2A), loosen half a
turn, then immediately tighten, each cylinder
head nut to the specified torque (see
“Specifications” in Chapter 2A). After the
engine has completely cooled, readjust the
valve clearances as described in Chapter 2A,
then refit the valve cover.
8 If new pistons or crankshaft bearings have
been fitted, the engine must be run-in for the
first 500 miles (800 km). Do not exceed 45
mph (72 km/h), operate the engine at full
throttle, or allow the engine to labour in any
gear.
3•1
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Contents
Antifreeze mixture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Cooling fan assembly - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Cooling fan thermostatic switch - testing, removal and refitting . . . . .9
Cooling system - draining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Cooling system - filling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Cooling system - flushing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Drivebelt - renewal and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Heater - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Heater and heater radiator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Heater motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Radiator - removal, inspection, cleaning and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Temperature gauge transmitter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .10
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
3
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
System type
...........................................
System capacity (including heater) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Antifreeze type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermo-syphon with belt driven pump, pressurised front mounted
radiator and electric cooling fan
15 lbf/in2 (1.05 kgf/cm2)
88°C (190°F)
0.16 in (4 mm) deflection between water pump and alternator pulleys
under load of 7.5 to 8.2 lbf (33 to 36 Nm)
8.5 Imp pints (4.9 litres)
Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and coolant
Torque wrench settings
lbf ft
Nm
MG Turbo
Coolant drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Coolant temperature transmitter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
27
40
37
55
Other models
Coolant temperature transmitter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder head outlet elbow nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water pump pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
8
16
8
20
11
22
11
Expansion tank cap pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermostat opens at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drivebelt tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1.1a Cooling system components (early model)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Radiator
Fan motor
Thermostatic switch
Water pump
Cylinder head outlet elbow
Sandwich plate
Cylinder block drain plug
Expansion tank filler cap
1.1b Cooling system components for
1985-on models
1
2
3
4
5
Radiator
Fan motor
Thermostatic switch
Water pump
Cylinder head thermostat
housing
6 Cylinder head outlet elbow
7 Cylinder block drain plug
location
8 Expansion tank filler cap
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
1.2 Radiator components and hoses
(early model shown)
1 Radiator
2 Thermostatic switch
3 Sealing bush
4 Mounting bush
5 Screw
6 Fan motor mounting bracket
8 Washer
9 Bolt
10 Fan blades
11 Fan motor
12 Washer
13 Bolt
14 Top hose (998 cc)
15 Top hose (1275 cc)
16 Bottom hose
17 Bottom pipe
18 Inlet hose
19 Heater inlet hose
20 Clip
21 Clip
22 Clip
23 Expansion tank
24 Filler cap
25 Vent pipe
26 Clip
1 General description
1 The cooling system is of pressurised type
and includes a front mounted radiator, belt
driven water pump and an electric cooling fan.
The thermostat is located in the water outlet
at the front of the cylinder head. The radiator
is of aluminium construction with plastic end
tanks, and is not provided with a drain plug.
On later models (1985-on) the radiator
thickness has been reduced considerably, but
its length has been increased. The radiator
top hose inlet is now at the top right-hand
side of the radiator (see illustrations). A drain
plug is, however, provided at the rear righthand side of the cylinder block.
2 The system functions as follows. Cold water
in the bottom of the radiator circulates through
the bottom hose and metal pipe to the water
pump, where the pump impeller pushes the
water around the cylinder block and head
passages. After cooling the cylinder bores,
combustion surfaces, and valve seats, the
water reaches the underside of the thermostat
which is initially closed, and is diverted through
the heater inlet hose to the heater. After leaving
the heater the water is returned to the water
pump inlet hose. When the engine is cold, the
thermostat remains closed and the water
circulates only through the engine and heater.
When the coolant reaches the predetermined
temperature (see “Specifications”), the
thermostat opens and the water passes
through the top hose to the top of the radiator.
As the water circulates down through the
radiator, it is cooled by the in-rush of air when
the car is in forward motion, supplemented by
the action of the electric cooling fan when
necessary. Having reached the bottom of the
radiator, the water is now cooled and the cycle
is repeated (see illustration).
3 The electric cooling fan is controlled by a
thermostatic switch located in the left-hand
side radiator tank. Water temperature is
monitored by a sender unit located beneath
the thermostat in the cylinder head.
4 On some models where the radiator bottom
hose incorporates a take-off point for the oil
cooler and/or heater matrix, take care not to
push the connecting pipe so far into the hose
that the take-off point is blocked (see
illustration).
1.4 Bottom hose with take-off for oil
cooler
5 Correct fitting of this hose should be
checked if problems are experienced with
poor heater output.
3
2 Cooling system - draining
Warning: Drain the cooling
system when the engine has
cooled.
Draining
1 It is preferable to drain the cooling system
when the engine has cooled. If this is not
possible, place a cloth over the expansion
tank filler cap and turn it slowly in an anticlockwise direction until the first stop is
reached, then wait until all the pressure has
been released.
2 Remove the filler cap.
3 Place a container beneath the left-hand
side of the radiator.
4 Loosen the clip and ease the bottom hose
away from the radiator outlet. Drain the
coolant into the container.
5 Place a second container beneath the
cylinder block drain plug located on the rear
right-hand side next to the clutch slave
cylinder. If necessary, remove the hot air
stove from the exhaust manifold (Chapter 4),
to improve access to the drain plug. Unscrew
the plug and drain the coolant.
3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
3 Cooling system - flushing
Flushing
1 After some time the radiator and engine
waterways may become restricted or even
blocked with scale or sediment, which
reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.
When this occurs, the coolant will appear
rusty and dark in colour and the system
should then be flushed. In severe cases,
reverse flushing may be required as described
later.
2 Disconnect the top hose from the cylinder
head outlet elbow, and the bottom hose from
the radiator outlet.
3 Insert a hose in the top hose, and allow
water to circulate through the radiator until it
runs clear from the outlet.
4 Insert the hose in the expansion tank filler
neck and allow water to run out of the cylinder
head outlet elbow and bottom hose until
clear.
5 Disconnect the heater inlet hose from the
front of the cylinder head, insert the hose, and
allow water to circulate through the heater
and out through the bottom hose until clear.
6 In severe cases of contamination, the
system should be reverse flushed. To do this,
remove the radiator, invert it, and insert a
hose in the outlet. Continue flushing until clear
water runs from the inlet.
7 If the engine is to be reverse flushed,
remove the thermostat, and insert a hose into
the cylinder head. Continue flushing until clear
water runs from the cylinder block drain plug
and bottom hose.
8 The use of any good proprietary cleaning
agent may be necessary if the system is
severely
contaminated
(always
read
manufacturers instructions). Reverse flushing
is also recommended to cleanse the cooling
system and restore maximum efficiency. To
prevent contamination occurring in future,
regular renewal of the antifreeze is necessary.
4 Cooling system - filling
Filling
1 Reconnect the radiator bottom hose and
heater hose.
2 Refit the thermostat if removed, and
reconnect the top hose to the outlet elbow.
3 Insert and tighten the cylinder block drain
plug.
4 Pour coolant into the expansion tank filler
neck until it reaches the level mark, then refit
the cap.
5 Run the engine at a fast idling speed for
three minutes, then stop the engine and check
the level in the expansion tank. Top-up the
level as necessary, being careful to release
pressure from the system before removing the
filler cap if necessary.
5 Radiator - removal, inspection,
cleaning and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 2.
3 Unscrew the bonnet lock cross panel
securing screws and central bolt, and move
the headlamp shrouds (if fitted). Remove the
screws (early models) and lift the grille from its
mountings (see illustrations).
4 Position the bonnet lock cross panel to one
side leaving the release cable still attached.
5 Loosen the clip and disconnect the top
hose from the radiator.
6 Pull the plug connector from the
thermostatic switch on the left-hand side of
the radiator. Disconnect the plug and socket
in the cooling fan motor supply leads.
7 Lift the radiator and fan assembly from the
lower location pegs, and remove it from the
car (see illustrations).
8 Unbolt the electric cooling fan assembly
from the radiator.
9 Release the thermostatic switch and
sealing bush from the radiator.
Inspection
10 Radiator repair is best left to a specialist,
but minor leaks may be repaired using a
proprietary coolant additive, with the radiator
in situ (always read the manufacturers
instructions).
5.3a Removing the front cross panel strut
bolt
5.3b Removing the front cross panel
mounting screws
5.3c Radiator upper left-hand mounting
(arrowed)
5.3d Removing the front grille - lower
mounting shown
5.7a Radiator lower location point
(arrowed)
5.7b Radiator and cooling fan assembly
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•5
Cleaning
11 Clear the radiator matrix of flies and small
leaves with a soft brush or by hosing. Reverse
flush the radiator as described in Section 3.
Renew the top and bottom hoses and clips if
they are damaged or deteriorated.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
always fit a new sealing bush to the
thermostatic switch and extra care is
necessary to ensure that the locating pins enter
the mounting bushes (see illustration). Fill the
cooling system as described in Section 4.
6 Thermostat - removal, testing
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is still hot, place a cloth over the cap
and turn it slowly anti-clockwise until the first
stop is reached, then wait until all the
pressure has been released.
2 Place a clean container beneath the
radiator outlet, then disconnect the bottom
hose and drain approximately 4 pints (2.3
litres) of coolant. Reconnect the bottom hose
and tighten the clip.
3 Unscrew the three nuts and lift the outlet
elbow from the sandwich plate. Peel off the
gasket (see illustration).
4 Withdraw the thermostat from its seat in the
sandwich plate (see illustration).
Testing
5 To test whether the unit is serviceable,
suspend it with a piece of string in a container
of water. Gradually heat the water and note
the temperature at which the thermostat
starts to open. Remove the thermostat from
the water and check that it is fully closed
when cold.
5.12 Bonnet lock cross panel/radiator
location pin
6.3 Removing the outlet elbow
6 Renew the thermostat if the opening
temperature is not as specified, or if the unit
does not fully close when cold.
7 If the sandwich plate-to-cylinder head
gasket has been disturbed, clean up the
mating faces and fit a new gasket.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new gasket and ensure that the spring
support pillars do not obstruct the heater
outlet in the sandwich plate. Top-up the
cooling system with reference to Section 4.
7 Water pump - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Remove the alternator adjustment nut and
pivot bolts. Place the alternator to one side.
4 Remove the windscreen washer bottle and
place it to one side. Unscrew the four bolts
and remove the pulley from the water pump
(see illustration).
7.4 Removing the water pump pulley
6.4 Removing the thermostat
5 Drain the cooling system as described in
Section 2.
6 Loosen the clip and disconnect the inlet
hose from the water pump.
7 Unscrew and remove the water pump
retaining bolts, noting their length and
location.
8 Using a soft-faced mallet, tap the water
pump from the two locating dowels and
remove it from the cylinder block (see
illustration). Remove the gasket.
9 If the water pump is faulty, renew it, as
Rover do not supply individual components
separately.
7.8 Removing the water pump
3
3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
10 Clean the mating faces of the water pump
and cylinder block.
Refitting
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new gasket and tension the drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1 (see illustration). Fill
the cooling system as described in Section 4.
8 Cooling fan assembly - testing,
removal and refitting
7.11 Thermostat and water pump
components
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Water pump
Gasket
Plug
Clip
Bolt (long)
Bolt (short)
Washer
Dowel
Outlet elbow
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Sandwich plate
Gasket
Washer
Nut
Thermostat
Pulley
Bolt
Washer
Drivebelt
Testing
1 Current supply to the cooling fan is direct
from the battery, protected by a fuse. The
circuit is completed by the cooling fan
thermostatic switch, which is mounted in the
left-hand side of the radiator.
2 If the fan does not appear to work, run the
engine until normal operating temperature is
reached, then allow it to idle. The fan should
cut in within a few minutes (just before the
temperature gauge needle enters the red
section). If the fan does not operate, switch off
the ignition, and disconnect the wiring plug
from the cooling fan switch on the radiator.
Bridge the two contacts in the wiring plug,
using a length of spare wire. If the fan now
operates, the switch is probably faulty, and
should be renewed.
3 If the fan still fails to operate, check that the
battery voltage is available at the feed wire to
the switch; if not, then there is a fault in the
feed wire (possibly due to a blown fuse). If
there is no problem with the feed, check that
there is continuity between the switch earth
terminal and a good earth point on the body; if
not, then the earth connection is faulty, and
must be re-made.
4 If the switch and the wiring are in good
condition, the fault must lie in the motor itself.
The motor can be checked by disconnecting it
from the wiring loom, and connecting a 12volt supply directly to it.
9 Cooling fan thermostatic
switch - testing, removal and
refitting
10 Temperature gauge
transmitter - removal and
refitting
Testing
Removal
1 Testing of the switch is described in
Section 8 as part of the cooling fan testing
procedure.
1 Remove the expansion tank filler cap. If the
engine is hot, place a cloth over the cap, and
unscrew it slowly to the first stop to allow all
pressure to be released, before removing the
cap.
2 Place a clean container beneath the
radiator outlet, then loosen the clip and
disconnect the bottom hose. Drain
approximately 4 pints (2.3 litres) of coolant,
then reconnect the bottom hose and tighten
the clip.
Removal
2 Release the retaining plate and withdraw
the switch and seal from the radiator (see
illustration).
Removal
Refitting
5 Follow the initial radiator removal procedure
described in Section 5, but do not drain the
cooling system or disconnect the top and
bottom hoses. Unbolt the cooling fan
assembly.
6 Extract the C-clip and withdraw the fan
blades from the motor spindle.
7 Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the motor from the mounting bracket. On later
models (1985-on), to remove the fan motor
from the cowl, drill out the three rivets.
8 Lubricate the armature shaft bearings with
oil.
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new seal and top-up the cooling system with
reference to Section 4 (see illustration).
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, using new
rivets (if applicable). Refer to Section 5 if
necessary.
9.2 Cooling fan thermostatic switch
location
9.3 Thermostatic switch components
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•7
10.3 Temperature gauge transmitter
location
11.2 Disconnecting the heater hoses
11.5 Disconnecting the heater wiring
multi-plug
3 Disconnect the supply lead, and unscrew
the transmitter from the front of the cylinder
head (see illustration).
3 Remove the facia with reference to
Chapter 11.
4 If fitted, remove the radio and cigar lighter
(see Chapter 12 for details).
5 Remove the demister elbows and tubes,
side and face vents (if fitted) and disconnect
the heater multi-plug (see illustration).
6 Remove the heater mounting bolts and the
left-hand air inlet duct nut (see illustrations).
7 Withdraw the heater unit from the car.
Unbolt the air inlet duct and blanking plate
and remove them by breaking the seal.
8 Pull off the heater control knobs, then
unscrew the securing screws and withdraw
the cover (see illustrations).
9 Remove the screws and withdraw the inlet
duct and blanking plate after releasing the
sealant. Remove the radiator pipe seal and
drill out the rivets from the pipe flange, if
applicable.
10 Withdraw the radiator pipe seal and drill
out the rivets securing the flange.
11 Note the position of the air temperature
control rod, then loosen the locking screws
(see illustration).
12 Remove the clips and screws retaining the
two halves, loosen the control bracket
screws, and withdraw the upper casing half
(see illustration).
13 Remove the screws, withdraw the
retaining plate, and lift out the radiator and
seals.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
the transmitter to the specified torque wrench
setting. Top-up the cooling system with
reference to Section 4.
11 Heater and heater radiator removal and refitting
Removal
1 Drain the cooling system, and remove the
air cleaner (see Chapter 4).
2 Identify the heater hoses on the engine side
of the bulkhead, then disconnect them from
the heater (see illustration).
Refitting
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but it will
be necessary to use a riveting tool to secure
the pipe flange. Use sealing compound to seal
3
11.6a Removing the front heater mounting
bolts
11.6b Removing the rear heater mounting
bolt
11.8a Removing the heater control knobs
11.8b Removing the heater cover panel
11.11 Air temperature controls on the
heater
11.12 Removing the heater case
3•8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
11.14b Heater components for 1985-on models
11.14a Heater radiator and components - early models
1 Seal
2 Radiator
3 Heater assembly
4 Cover
the inlet duct and blanking plate to the housing.
If necessary adjust the air temperature control
as described in Section 12. Fill the cooling
system with reference to Section 4 (see
illustrations).
12 Heater - adjustment
Note: On some models the heater has preset
cables that cannot be adjusted. Also removal
of the fusebox cover will be necessary on later
models.
Air distribution
1 Position the air distribution control knob
fully upwards (see illustrations).
5 Control knob
1 Top case half
2 Top radiator retaining plate
3 Heater radiator
2 Loosen the rod-to-lever locking screw, and
turn the lever fully clockwise.
3 Tighten the locking screw.
Temperature control and face
level ventilation
4 Remove the facia as described in Chapter 11.
5 If fitted, remove the radio and cigar lighter
as described in Chapter 12.
6 Pull off the heater control knobs, and
remove the heater cover bottom screws.
7 Remove the heater mounting bolts and the
left-hand air inlet duct nut.
8 Lower the heater sufficiently to remove the
heater cover top screws and withdraw the
cover.
9 Position the temperature control lever fully
4 Bottom radiator retaining
plate
5 Bottom case half
upwards and loosen the control locking
screws or clips if fitted. On 1985-on models
the air distribution control should be moved
fully down.
10 Turn the upper flap lever fully clockwise to
close the flap, then tighten the upper screw or
refit the adjuster clip to control rod, if fitted.
11 Turn the lower flap lever fully anticlockwise then tighten the lower screw with
the upper flap held fully clockwise.
12 Position the face level ventilation lever
fully upwards and loosen the control linkage
screw (see illustration).
13 Turn the flap lever fully clockwise then
tighten the locking screw.
14 Reverse the procedure given in
paragraphs 4 to 8.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•9
3
12.1b Heater controls for 1985-on models
12.1a Heater adjustments - early models
A Air distribution
B Air temperature upper flap
C Air temperature lower flap
D Face level ventilation
1
2
3
4
Air temperature control
Air distribution control
Air temperature control rod
Air distribution control rod
13 Heater motor - removal and
refitting
Removal
12.12 Heater ventilation controls
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 On right-hand drive models, remove the air
cleaner (Chapter 4) and unbolt the cooling
system expansion tank for access.
3 On left-hand drive models, unscrew the
clutch hose bracket nut.
4 Disconnect the heater motor wiring multiplug.
5
6
7
8
Adjuster clip (locked)
Adjuster clip (unlocked)
Air temperature flap lever
Air distribution flap lever
5 Remove the mounting plate retaining bolts
and withdraw the inlet box assembly from the
car.
6 Disconnect the wires from the heater
motor, noting their locations.
7 Remove the screws and withdraw the
mounting plate.
8 Unclip the drain tube and inlet seal, then
remove the clips and screws retaining the inlet
box halves.
9 Break the joint and separate the inlet box
halves.
10 Withdraw the inlet baffle, heater motor
and mounting strip.
3•10 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
11 Remove the fan from the heater motor
spindle.
12 Clean the sealant from the inlet box
halves.
Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
position the fan outer face 4.02 to 4.04 in
(102.25 to 102.75 mm) from the motor tag rear
face. Use sealing compound to seal the inlet
box halves (see illustration).
1
2
3
4
13.13 Heater motor and air inlet box
assembly
Motor
5 Drain tube
Fan
6 Seal
Seal
7 Mounting plate
Air inlet box
8 Seal
4•1
Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaust systems
Contents
Accelerator cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Air cleaner and element (except MG Turbo) - removal and refitting . .2
Air cleaner and element (MG Turbo models) - removal and refitting . .3
Anti run-on valve (MG 1300 models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . .17
Carburettor - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Carburettor - idle and fast idle adjustment . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Carburettor (except MG Turbo models) - testing, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Carburettor (MG Turbo models) - testing, removal and refitting . . . .14
Carburettor - throttle damper adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Carburettor vent filter - 1.0 litre economy models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Choke control cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Dump valve - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Electronic control unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Exhaust downpipes - modification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Exhaust elbow gasket (if fitted) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .26
Exhaust system - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Fuel filter (MG Turbo models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Fuel pressure regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Fuel pump (except MG Turbo models) - testing, removal and refitting .5
Fuel pump (MG Turbo models) - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . .6
Fuel tank - removal, servicing and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Inlet and exhaust manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Pressure reducing valve - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .21
Temperature control system (MG 1300 and Vanden Plas models) testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Turbocharger - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Wastegate actuator - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
Air cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air cleaner element:
All models except MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Automatic air temperature control type, with renewable paper element
Champion W125
Champion W114
Fuel tank capacity
Models up to 1986 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6.6 Imp gals (30 litres)
7.8 Imp gals (35 litres)
Fuel pump
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel pump pressure (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mechanical, diaphragm, operated by eccentric on camshaft
6 lbf/in2 (0.4 kgf/cm2)
Carburettor
998 cc
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Piston spring colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust gas CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HlF 38
Red
0.090 in
1.5 to 3.5%
1275 cc
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Piston spring colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust gas CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HIF 44
Red
0.100 in
1.5 to 3.5%
MG Turbo
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Piston spring colour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jet size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust gas CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HIF44
Yellow
0.100 in
0.5 to 2.5%
4
4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems
Piston damper oil type
Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40
Idling speeds (rpm)
Idle
Fast Idle
750
750
600 to 700
750
650
750
650
750
750
650
700 to 800
600 to 700
730 to 930
780 to 880
780 to 880
780 to 880
780 to 880
1300
1300
1100
1300
1300
1300
1100
1300
1300
1100
1250 to 1350
1050 to 1150
1250 to 1350
1250 to 1350
1050 to 1150
1250 to 1350
1050 to 1150
780 to 880
780 to 880
1050 to 1150
1050 to 1150
750
650
750
850
750
650
750
650
750
650
850
750
600 to 700
750 to 850
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1100
1050 to 1150
950 to 1050
800 to 900
800 to 900
830 to 930
830 to 930
830 to 930
1000 to 1100
1100 to 1200
1050 to 1150
1050 to 1150
950 to 1050
830 to 930
830 to 930
1000 to 1100
1100 to 1200
830 to 930
830 to 930
780 to 880
1000 to 1100
1100 to 1200
1050 to 1150
750 to 850
780 to 880
950 to 1050
1050 to 1150
998 cc
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 1.0, L, City and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 all models (except HLE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Low comp., 1.0, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Std. comp., Eng. No. 99HA06P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Std. comp., Eng. No. 99HA07P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Low comp., City X and City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Std. comp., L, HLE and City X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 Low and Std. comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 High comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 Low comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 Std. comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 High comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1987-on Low and Std. comp., all models (except unleaded) . . . . . . .
1987-on High comp., all models (except unleaded) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Unleaded fuel specification (95 RON):
1989-on Low comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on Std. comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1275 cc
Early models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 Low comp., 1.3, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 Std. comp., 1.3, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 MG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982 Vanden Plas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 Low comp. and HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983 All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Low comp., 1.3, L and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Std. comp., 1.3, L, automatic and Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 MG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 Vanden Plas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 Low and Std. comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 Automatic and Vanden Plas Automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985 MG and Vanden Plas manual:
Engine 12HA83AA and 12HC14AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine 12HB42AA and 12HC15AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 Low comp., all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 Std. comp., manual (except MG and Vanden Plas) . . . . . . . . . .
1986 Std. comp., automatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1986 MG and Vanden Plas:
Engine 12HC14AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine 12HC15AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1987-89 1275 Sport, MG and Vanden Plas with manual gearbox:
Engine 12HD24AA and 12HD17AA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine 12HD25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on Unleaded fuel (95 RON), Low comp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on Unleaded fuel (95 RON), Std. comp.
with automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
with manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turbocharger
Boost pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wastegate operating pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Permissible bearing clearance:
Radial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Axial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4 to 7 lbf/in2 (0.28 to 0.49 kgf/cm2)
4 lbf/in2 (0.28 kgf/cm2)
0.003 to 0.006 in (0.08 to 0.15 mm)
0.001 to 0.003 in (0.03 to 0.08 mm)
Fuel octane rating
Metro low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other leaded type models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All Unleaded models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
91 RON minimum
97 RON minimum
95 RON minimum
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•3
Torque wrench settings
Carburettor nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel pump nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Throttle damper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turbocharger to exhaust manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turbocharger to exhaust elbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil drain adapter screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil feed banjo bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wastegate bracket screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Plenum chamber to carburettor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Non-return valve to manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 General description
Warning: Many of the
procedures in this Chapter
require the removal of fuel lines
and connections, which may
result in some fuel spillage. Before
carrying out any operation on the fuel
system, refer to the precautions given in
“Safety first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
Fuel system
1 The fuel system comprises a rear mounted
fuel tank, a fuel pump and an SU HIF
(Horizontal,
Integral
Floatchamber)
carburettor.
Fuel pump
2 The fuel pump is camshaft operated
(except MG Turbo), and is located on the rear
left-hand side of the cylinder block. It is of
sealed construction. In the event of faulty
operation, the pump should be renewed
complete.
3 The fuel pump fitted to MG Turbo models is
electrically operated. The pump is located
next to the fuel tank, at the rear of the vehicle.
4 Electrical supply to the pump is through a
relay energised by the starter motor solenoid
when the engine is being started; thereafter
the relay is controlled by the oil pressure
warning switch. This means that the pump will
stop if the engine stalls, or if there is a
catastrophic fall in oil pressure when the
engine is running.
5 The fuel pump output is at high pressure.
The fuel pressure regulator valve in the engine
bay reduces the fuel pressure according to
the requirements of the carburettor.
lbf ft
16
16
8
28
15
16
11
16
16
18
remains in its lowest position due to its weight
and the pressure of the piston spring. When
the engine is started and is allowed to idle, the
throttle valve passes a small amount of air.
Because the piston is in a low position, it
offers a large restriction, and the resultant
pressure reduction draws fuel from the jet,
and atomisation occurs to provide a
combustible mixture. Since the inside section
of the tapered needle is across the mouth of
the jet, a relatively small amount of fuel is
passed.
8 When the throttle valve is opened, the
amount of air passing through the carburettor
is increased, which causes a greater depression beneath the sliding piston. An
internal passageway connects this depression
with the suction chamber above the piston,
which now rises. The piston now offers less of
a restriction and the depression is reduced,
with the result that a point is reached where
the forces of depression, gravity, and spring
tension balance out. The tapered needle has
now been raised, and more fuel passes from
the jet.
9 The overall effect of this type of carburettor
is that the depression remains relatively
constant, and the fuel/air mixture is controlled
to a fine degree over the complete throttle
valve movement.
10 Fuel enrichment for cold starting is
provided by a choke cable-operated valve,
which admits more fuel into the airstream
passing through the carburettor.
11 The jet adjusting (mixture) screw
mechanism incorporates a bi-metal strip,
which alters the position of the jet to
compensate for varying fuel densities
resulting from varying fuel temperatures.
12 A throttle damper is fitted to certain
models to retard the action of the throttle lever
as it returns to the idling position. This
prevents an over weak mixture during
deceleration and reduces the emission of
certain harmful gases from the exhaust
system (see illustration).
Nm
22
22
11
38
21
22
15
22
22
25
the normally-aspirated versions. However this
carburettor is sealed against atmospheric
pressure, and must not be dismantled. This is
to maintain proper functioning throughout the
range of boost pressures used, and to prevent
fuel or fuel/air mixture being discharged into
the engine compartment under conditions of
high boost pressures. For this reason, at time
of writing, there are no repair kits available. It
cannot be emphasised too strongly that
haphazard or ill-informed attempts at repair
may result in dangerous fuel leakage.
Unleaded petrol
14 Models built up to October 1988 (as
delivered from the factory) cannot use
unleaded petrol; the valve seats fitted as
standard will suffer serious premature wear
without the protection of the petrol’s lead
content. Only four-star leaded petrol should
be used, irrespective of the engine’s
compression ratio. Exceptions to this are
those engines that have been modified as
described in the next paragraph.
15 From October 1988 onwards (i.e. during
the 1989 model year), improved components
were gradually introduced at the factory to
enable engines to run on 95 RON unleaded
petrol. These vehicles can be identified by the
green “95 RON unleaded” label attached to
the bonnet lock platform. They can use either
unleaded or leaded petrol without
modification or risk of damage.
Carburettor
6 The SU HIF carburettor is a variable choke,
constant depression type. It incorporates a
sliding piston. This automatically controls the
mixture of air and fuel supplied to the engine,
in relation to the throttle valve position and
engine speed.
7 The carburettor functions as follows. With
the engine stationary, the sliding piston
MG Turbo models
Warning: This carburettor is
sealed against atmospheric
pressure, and must not be
dismantled.
13 The SU HIF44 carburettor fitted to MG
Turbo models works on the same principle as
1.12 The throttle damper
1 Clamp bolt
2 Lever
3 Plunger
4
4•4 Fuel and exhaust systems
1.23a MG Turbo engine compartment and
rear of turbocharger
1 Turbocharger
2 Oil inlet pipe
2A Oil inlet pipe union
3 Oil drain hose
4 Wastegate actuator
5 Wastegate operating arm
6 Pressure sensing hose (to ECU and fuel
regulator)
7 Plenum chamber
8 Pressure hose (to wastegate actuator)
9 Pressure hose (to pressure reducing valve)
10 Pressure reducing valve and solenoid
11 Fuel pressure regulator
12 Electronic control unit
13 Carburettor
14 Float chamber venting valve (if fitted)
15 Idle speed adjustment screw
16 Idle mixture adjustment screw
16 If you own a 1989 model and suspect that
the label has become detached, check first
with a Rover dealer whether your vehicle can
use unleaded petrol or not. The VIN will be
required for positive identification. Note,
however, that as a rule 998 cc engines that
can use unleaded petrol have serial number
prefixes of 99HE while 1275 cc equivalents
have prefixes of 12HE or 12HF.
17 For owners of earlier models who wish to
use unleaded petrol, conversion kits are
available (consisting of an exchange cylinder
head) as “Green Packs” through Rover
dealers only. Any vehicle which has had such
a conversion will have the letter “U” stamped
between the engine number prefix and the
start of the serial number. These can use
either unleaded or leaded petrol without
modification or risk of damage. Note: Apart
from any adjustments made during the fitting
of a “Green Pack” no alterations are required
(or should be made) to the ignition timing or
carburation.
18 Do not attempt to use unleaded petrol in
Turbo models; use only leaded four-star.
19 Use only unleaded petrol in any model
fitted with a catalytic converter (see below).
Air cleaner
20 The air cleaner is of automatic air
temperature control type and incorporates a
disposable paper element. MG 1300 nonTurbo models, pre-1985 LHD Vanden Plas
and 1985-on manual transmission Vanden
Plas models are fitted with an air cleaner that
has a vacuum-operated flap valve to control
the inlet air temperature.
Manifolds
21 On most models the inlet and exhaust
manifolds are manufactured as one integral
casting. On 998 cc low compression models
the exhaust manifold passageways converge
into a single downpipe, but on all other
models, the central siamesed exhaust
manifold passageway is connected to a
separate downpipe. MG 1300 and Turbo
models are fitted with separate inlet and
exhaust manifolds. The inlet manifold is
heated by water from the cooling system. Pre1985 LHD Vanden Plas and 1985-on manual
transmission Vanden Plas models are also
fitted with separate manifolds, the inlet
manifold being coolant heated.
Exhaust system
22 The exhaust system is in two sections; the
front section incorporates the downpipe(s)
and front silencer, and the rear section
incorporates the rear silencer and tailpipe.
The exhaust system is suspended on rubber
mountings although the front downpipe is
attached rigidly to the right-hand side
differential unit side cover. Twin downpipes
are incorporated on all models except the low
compression version.
Turbocharger
23 The turbocharger fitted to the MG Turbo
model is of the “blow through” type, i.e. the
compressor blows air into the carburettor.
The turbocharger is made up of three
housings; exhaust, centre and compressor.
The exhaust housing is connected to the
exhaust manifold. It contains the turbine
wheel and the wastegate. The centre housing
contains the shaft that connects the turbine
and compressor wheels, together with the
associated seals and bearings. Oil for bearing
lubrication and heat transfer is fed to the
centre housing from the engine’s lubrication
system (see illustrations).
24 The compressor housing contains the
compressor wheel. It is connected to the
plenum chamber and thence to the
carburettor.
Boost
pressure
sensing
connections and a dump valve (to release
excess pressure) are located in the plenum
chamber. Exhaust gas flowing past the turbine
wheel causes the wheel to rotate at speeds of
up to 130 000 rpm. The compressor wheel, on
the same shaft, compresses air into the
engine’s induction system at a pressure of up
to 7 lbf/in2 (0.5 kgf/cm2), thus improving
efficiency and performance. Boost pressure is
limited in several ways.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•5
1.23b Schematic diagram of turbocharger control systems
1
2
3
4
Turbine wheel
Wastegate
Wastegate actuator
Compressor wheel
5 Electronic control unit
6 Ignition amplifier
7 Boost gauge
25 A device known as a wastegate diverts
part of the exhaust gas flow away from the
turbine wheel when boost pressure has
reached a certain value. The pressure at
which the wastegate operates is increased as
engine speed rises; this is achieved by the
electronic control unit (ECU), which opens a
pressure reducing valve, thus reducing the
pressure available for operating the
wastegate. The dump valve, already
mentioned, releases excess pressure from the
plenum chamber.
26 The increased fuel demand at high speed
and large throttle openings are catered for by
the fuel pressure regulating valve. This valve
increases fuel delivery in proportion to boost
pressure. A boost gauge on the dashboard,
linked to the ECU, displays to the driver the
boost pressure being developed.
27 Although the turbocharger is a simple
unit, it operates at very high speeds and high
temperatures. Certain precautions should be
observed, both for personal safety and to
avoid damage to the unit. These are as
follows:
28 Do not run the engine with the air inlet
hose disconnected. The compressor rotates
fast enough to cause grave personal injury,
and there is a chance of foreign bodies being
sucked in and damaging the compressor.
29 Do not rev the engine immediately after
start-up. Wait a few seconds for oil pressure
8 Pressure reducing valve
9 Fuel pressure regulator
10 Dump valve
to become established at the turbine shaft
bearings. This is especially important after an
oil filter change, when the pressure may take
a significant time to build up.
30 Do not switch the engine off without
allowing it to idle for at least 10 seconds.
Switching off immediately after a run can
leave the turbine rotating at high speed with
no oil pressure available at the bearings.
31 The above points also serve to stress the
importance of regular oil and filter changes,
and conscientious checking of the oil level
between changes. Neglect of these items
could prove very costly.
Catalytic converter
32 A catalytic converter was available as an
optional extra for some 1990-on models. The
converter consists of an element (or
“substrate”) of ceramic honeycomb. This is
coated with a combination of precious metals
(platinum and rhodium) in such a way as to
produce a vast surface area over which the
exhaust gases must flow. The assembly being
mounted in a stainless-steel box in the
vehicle’s exhaust system. The precious
metals act as catalysts to speed up the
reaction between the pollutants and the
oxygen in the car’s exhaust gases, HC and
CO being oxidised to form H2O and CO2.
33 The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device that needs no maintenance in
itself, but there are some facts of which an
owner should be aware if the converter is to
function properly for its full service life:
a) Do not use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter - the
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained. In particular, ensure that
the air cleaner filter element and spark
plugs are renewed at the correct interval.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter. This in turn will
overheat the element and eventually
destroying the converter.
c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all or at least as little
as possible until the fault is cured - the
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating.
d) Do not push or tow-start the vehicle - this
will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel, causing it to overheat
when the engine does start.
e) Do not switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds, otherwise unburned fuel
will enter the (very hot) catalytic converter,
with the possible risk of its igniting on the
element and damaging the converter.
f) Do not use fuel or engine oil additives these may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
g) Do not continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke - the unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
h) Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures. Do
not park the vehicle in dry undergrowth,
over long grass or piles of dead leaves.
i) The catalytic converter is fragile - do not
strike it with tools during servicing work
and ensure that it is well clear of any jacks
used to raise the vehicle. Do not drive the
vehicle over rough ground, road humps,
etc., in such a way as to ground the
exhaust system.
j) In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. Once the vehicle has
covered a few thousand miles the
problem should disappear - meanwhile a
change of driving style or of the brand of
petrol used may effect a solution.
k) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently - if the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
4
4•6 Fuel and exhaust systems
with bracket. The air cleaner bracket and
body can be separated after removing the
four screws from the case.
Refitting
4 If only renewing the element, clean the
inside of the housing before fitting the new
element. Refit the cover and secure with the
spring clips.
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
2.1 Air cleaner vacuum hose connection
2 Air cleaner and element
(except MG Turbo) - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Unscrew and remove the two wing nuts on
the top of the air cleaner. Disconnect the
vacuum hose, if applicable (see illustration).
2 Withdraw the air cleaner and at the same
time, disconnect it from the hot air shroud
tube.
3 The air cleaner element should be renewed
as per service intervals shown in Chapter 1.
2.4 The air temperature control flap
Refitting
4 Before refitting, clean the interior of the air
cleaner with a fuel-moistened cloth, and wipe
dry. The air temperature control flap should be
in the open position when cold, to admit warm
air from the heating stove. By heating the bimetallic strap with a hair dryer, the flap should
close the warm air aperture (see illustration).
If the operation of the temperature control is in
doubt, renew the air cleaner body complete.
5 Install the new element and snap the cover
onto the body.
6 Check that the seal is in good condition,
then refit the air cleaner and connect it to the
hot air shroud tube. Insert and tighten the two
wing nuts and reconnect the vacuum hose, if
fitted.
3 Air cleaner and element (MG
Turbo models) - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 The air cleaner on MG Turbo models is
remote from the carburettor, being mounted
on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment (see illustration).
2 To renew the air cleaner element, release
the spring clips and take off the cover. Extract
the element.
3 To remove the air cleaner unit complete,
first disconnect the large supply hose and the
small crankcase ventilation system hose.
Then unbolt the air cleaner bracket from the
car body and remove the air cleaner complete
3.1 Air cleaner components - MG Turbo
models
1
2
3
4
Cover
Element
Housing
Adapter
5 Seal
6 Bracket
7 Supply hose
4.2 Air cleaner temperature sensor (inside
air cleaner body)
4 Temperature control system
(MG 1300 and Vanden Plas
models) - testing
Testing
1 A visual check may be made to determine
correct operation of the temperature control
system. On starting the engine from cold, the
flap in the air cleaner snout should be
positioned so that air is drawn only from the
hot air pick-up shroud. As the engine warms
up, or if the vacuum hose is disconnected, the
flap should move to close the hot air inlet in
favour of the cold air.
2 Malfunction of the temperature control
system may be due to a faulty temperature
sensor (see illustration), a faulty vacuum
motor, or a failure in the vacuum supply (hose
blocked or leaking). The temperature sensor is
available separately from the air cleaner body,
but the vacuum motor is not.
5 Fuel pump (except MG Turbo
models) - testing, removal and
refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 Under certain conditions it is possible for
the normal operation of the fuel pump to give
rise to a knocking noise. From inside the car
this noise may be mistaken for a sign of
serious engine problems.
2 Diagnosis of fuel pump knock requires the
help of an assistant. One person should sit in
the car and hold the engine speed at the level
where the knock is most pronounced, whilst
another person squeezes and releases the
fuel pump inlet flexible hose. If the noise
changes or disappears when the hose is
squeezed, this confirms that the fuel pump is
the source of the noise.
3 Fuel pump knock can be eliminated by
attention to the following points:
a) Make sure that the metal fuel pipe from
the tank fits into its clip on the bulkhead
without strain.
b) Make sure that the flexible pipes are not
touching the bulkhead, nor their clips.
c) If the flexible pipes are under tension, fit
longer pipes to relieve this.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•7
5.6a Disconnecting the feed pipe from the
fuel pump
4 To test the operation of the fuel pump,
remove the air cleaner (Section 2), then
disconnect the fuel pipe from the carburettor.
Disconnect the HT lead from the coil, and spin
the engine on the starter while holding a wad
of rag near the fuel pipe. Well-defined spurts
of fuel should be ejected from the pipe if the
fuel pump is operating correctly, provided
there is fuel in the fuel tank.
Removal
5 To remove the fuel pump, disconnect the
battery negative lead, and remove the air
cleaner if not already removed.
6 Disconnect and plug the fuel feed pipe.
Disconnect the fuel outlet pipe (see
illustrations).
7 Unscrew and remove the two retaining nuts
and spring washers, and withdraw the fuel
pump from the studs (see illustration).
8 Remove the insulator block and gasket
(see illustration).
Refitting
9 Clean all traces of gasket from the
crankcase, insulator block, and fuel pump
flange.
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit
new gaskets either side of the insulator.
Locate the rocker arm on top of the camshaft
eccentric, then push the pump onto the studs.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
Note: When fitting a twin turret pump in place
of an early single turret pump, ensure a thinner
insulating block is also fitted. On automatic
model, if the new fuel pump has a larger
diameter body flange than the original, the
kickdown rod may also need to be renewed.
5.6b Disconnecting the outlet pipe from
the fuel pump
6 Fuel pump (MG Turbo models)
- testing, removal and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 If the pump output is thought to be
insufficient, this can be tested by
disconnecting the oil pressure warning light
switch, turning on the ignition and removing
the fuel filler cap. Fuel should be coming out
of the return line with a sufficient force to hit
the far side of the filler neck. If not, check the
pipes.
2 Before condemning the pump after testing,
make sure that it is not the relay that is faulty.
Disconnect the fuel pump relay multiplug
(under the bonnet) and join the white/green
and white/purple leads (relay terminals 85 and
30/51). If the pump output is now satisfactory,
the relay is faulty.
Removal
3 Disconnect the battery earth lead, then
raise and securely support the rear of the car.
Temporarily remove the fuel filler cap to
release any residual pressure in the tank, then
refit it.
4 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump
and plug them. Be prepared for some fuel
spillage. Release the inlet hose from its clip.
5 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
pump, identifying them if necessary.
5.7 Removing the fuel pump (except
MG Turbo)
6 Remove the nuts that secure the fuel pump
mountings to the support bracket. Work the
pump over to the right-hand side of the car so
that it can be extracted through the rear of the
subframe (see illustration).
7 Separate the pump from its mounting
bracket. The pump cannot be repaired, but
must be renewed if defective. If it is wished to
renew the pump inlet and outlet hoses, the
fuel tank must first be removed.
Refitting
8 Refitting the fuel pump is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Position the pump in its
mounting bracket so that the positive (+)
connector will be vertically above the negative
(-) connector when the pump is installed.
9 Run the engine and check for leaks on
completion.
7 Fuel filter (MG Turbo models) removal and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Warning: Take precautions
against fire when removing the
filter, and do not smoke.
Removal
1 The fuel filter is located in the fuel line
between the pressure regulator and the
carburettor. It should be renewed at the
intervals specified in “Routine maintenance
and servicing”, or more frequently if filter
blockage is suspected.
2 Take precautions against fire when
removing the filter, and do not smoke.
Residual pressure in the fuel lines may lead to
significant fuel spillage when the filter is
removed.
3 Release the hose clamps on each side of
the filter and carefully pull off the hoses.
Inspect the hoses and clips; renew these too,
if necessary. Mop up any fuel spilt.
Refitting
5.8 Fuel pump insulator block and gaskets
6.6 MG Turbo fuel pump. Remove nuts
(arrowed) to release pump and mountings
from support bracket
4 Fit the new filter. A directional arrow or an
“OUT” marking should point towards the
carburettor; an “IN” marking should face the
pressure regulator. Without any markings the
filter may be fitted either way round.
4
4•8 Fuel and exhaust systems
8.1 Fuel tank filler cap
8.6 Fuel tank gauge sender unit location
8.8 Fuel tank rear retaining bolt locations
5 Secure the new filter with the hose clamps.
When all spilt fuel has been removed from the
engine bay, start the engine and check for
leaks.
7 Disconnect the supply lead from the gauge
sender unit and unclip it from the fuel tank
flange.
8 Loosen the two rear fuel tank retaining bolts
(see illustration). Unscrew and remove the
two front retaining bolts.
9 Lower the fuel tank and disconnect the vent
tube. Withdraw the fuel tank from under the
car.
described in Section 9 and swill the tank out
with clean fuel. If the tank is damaged or
leaks, it should be repaired by specialists, or
alternatively renewed. Do not under any
circumstances solder or weld a fuel tank.
8 Fuel tank - removal, servicing
and refitting
Note: In addition to the warning in Section 1,
the fuel tank must always be removed in a well
ventilated area, never over a pit.
Removal
Servicing
10 If the tank is contaminated with sediment
or water, remove the gauge sender unit as
Refitting
11 Refitting is a reverse of removal. Access
to the vent tube is gained by removing the
right-hand plastic pocket. On 5-door models,
ensure that the filler hose is positioned equally
on the tank stub and filler tube before
tightening the clips (see illustrations).
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Remove the tank filler cap (see illustration).
2 Siphon or pump all the fuel from the fuel
tank (there is no drain plug).
3 Jack up the rear of the car and support it on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”), but position the right-hand stand to
allow for the removal of the tank and lowering
the subframe. Chock the front wheels.
Remove the fuel pump, if fitted.
4 On 3-door models only, detach the
retaining strap from the right-hand rear
Hydragas suspension unit. Unbolt the righthand side of the rear subframe and lower the
subframe sufficiently to remove the fuel tank.
5 On 5-door models, unscrew the nut from
the exhaust system rear mounting and
support the system on an axle stand. Loosen
the filler hose clips and slide the hose off the
fuel tank stub.
6 Loosen the clip and disconnect the short
hose from the fuel tank gauge sender unit
(see illustration).
8.11b Fuel tank components
8.11a Fuel tank vent tube
1
2
3
4
5
Fuel tank
Fuel gauge sender unit
Seal
Locking ring
Filler cap (non-locking)
6 Filler cap (locking)
7 Vent tube
8 Grommet
9 Ferrule
10 Feed pipe
11
12
13
14
15
Connector hose
Clip
Bolt
Plain washer
Spring washer
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•9
10.2 Choke cable - inner cable and clamp
pin
9 Fuel gauge sender unit removal and refitting
Note: In addition to the warning in Section 1,
the fuel gauge sender unit must always be
removed in a well ventilated area, never over a
pit.
Removal
1 Follow the procedure given in paragraphs 1
to 6 of Section 8.
2 Using two crossed screwdrivers, turn the
locking ring to release it from the tank.
3 Withdraw the locking ring, seal, and sender
unit.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but always
fit a new seal.
10.3 Removing the choke outer cable
10 Choke control cable removal and refitting
Note: On 1985-on models the choke control
cable has been repositioned to the facia
panel.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner and with the choke
now fully in, loosen the screw to release the
inner cable from the carburettor lever (see
illustration). Remove the small clamp.
3 Release the outer cable at the carburettor
end, by removing the clip (see illustration).
4 Remove the screws retaining the steering
column cowls to the outer column bracket.
5 Separate the cowls and withdraw the righthand cowl.
6 Disconnect the lighting switch multi-plug
and withdraw the left-hand cowl over the
direction indicator switch.
7 Unclip the choke warning switch, remove
the nut, and withdraw the choke cable
through the bulkhead and cowl (see
illustration).
10.7 Choke warning switch and cable
connection to steering column cowl
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
tightening the clamping pin, adjust the
position of the inner cable to provide 0.16 in (4
mm) free movement. Check that with the
accelerator pedal fully depressed, the throttle
lever is fully open, and with the pedal fully
released the lever is in the closed position.
12 Accelerator pedal - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Working inside the car, prise the retaining
clip from the top of the accelerator pedal and
pull the inner cable out of the slot.
2 Unbolt and remove the accelerator pedal.
Refitting
3 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
4
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
tightening the clamping pin, adjust the
position of the inner cable to provide 0.08 in (2
mm) free movement (see illustration).
11 Accelerator cable - removal
and refitting
11.3 Removing the accelerator outer cable
Removal
10.8 Choke and accelerator cables
1
2
3
4
Pedal assembly
Return spring
Accelerator cable
Retaining clip
5
6
7
8
Choke cable
Grommet
Locknut
Washer
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner, and loosen the
screw to release the inner cable from the
throttle lever.
3 Slide the outer cable from the carburettor
bracket (see illustration).
4 Working inside the car, prise the retaining
clip from the top of the accelerator pedal, and
disconnect the inner cable (see illustration).
5 Prise the plastic bush from the bulkhead
(engine side), and withdraw the complete
accelerator cable from the engine compartment.
11.4 Accelerator cable-to-pedal
connection
4•10 Fuel and exhaust systems
13.12a Removing the carburettor elbow
13 Carburettor (except MG
Turbo models) - testing,
removal and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 If a carburettor fault is suspected, always
check first that the ignition timing is correctly
set. Also check that the spark plugs are in
good condition and correctly gapped. The
accelerator and choke cables should be
correctly adjusted. The air cleaner filter
element needs to be clean. Refer to the
relevant Chapters, for further details. If the
engine is running very roughly, first check the
valve clearances, then check the compression
pressures as described in Chapter 2A,
Section 1.
2 If careful checking of all the above
produces no improvement, the carburettor
must be removed for cleaning and overhaul.
3 In the rare event that a complete
carburettor overhaul being necessary, it may
prove more economical to renew the
carburettor as complete assembly. Check
also, the availability of component parts
before starting work; note that most sealing
washers, screws and gaskets are available in
kits, as are some of the major subassemblies. In most cases, it may be
sufficient to dismantle the carburettor and to
clean the jets and passages.
Removal
4 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
6 Loosen the screws securing the choke and
accelerator inner cables to their respective
levers. Disconnect the outer cables and
withdraw them from the carburettor.
7 Note the locations, then disconnect the
vent tube and crankcase ventilation tube from
the carburettor.
8 Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet pipe.
9 Disconnect the distributor vacuum pipe
from the carburettor.
10 Unscrew and remove the carburettor
mounting nuts and washers.
13.12b Removing the carburettor
11 Disconnect the carburettor heater wires
(where fitted to cold country models).
12 Withdraw the carburettor from the inlet
manifold studs, and, if necessary, remove the
air cleaner elbow and gasket by unscrewing
the two cross head screws (see illustrations).
13 Withdraw the gasket, control bracket
complete with throttle damper, gasket,
distance piece or heater (cold countries), and
final gasket. If necessary, remove the throttle
damper from the control bracket.
7 Disconnect the pressure sensing hose from
the plenum chamber and remove the heat
shield. Release the inlet hose clip and unbolt
and remove the plenum chamber.
8 Remove the compressor exit pipe and
hose.
9 Disconnect the choke and throttle cables
from the carburettor.
10 Disconnect the vacuum advance and the
fuel supply pipes. Plug the fuel supply pipe.
Disconnect the float chamber venting valve
hose (if fitted).
11 Remove the nuts that secure the
carburettor to the inlet manifold. Release the
throttle cable bracket and remove the
carburettor.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following points:
a) Use new gaskets and make sure that the
mating surfaces are clean.
b) Adjust the choke and throttle cables as
described in Sections 10 and 11.
c) Top-up the damper, then screw the
damper cap firmly home and refit its
clamp.
Refitting
14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the mounting nuts to the specified
torque in diagonal sequence (where
applicable), and always fit new gaskets. Make
sure that the mating faces of each component
are clean.
15 Connect the choke and accelerator
cables with reference to Sections 10 and 11.
Adjust the throttle damper as described in
Section 16. Adjust the idle and fast idle
speeds as described in Chapter 1.
14 Carburettor (MG Turbo
models) - testing, removal and
refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 Refer also to Section 13, paragraph 1.
2 If float chamber flooding is experienced, it
may be possible to rectify the problem as
follows.
3 Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet pipe at
the carburettor. Also plug the carburettor fuel
inlet. Mop up any spilt fuel.
4 Start the engine and run it until the fuel in
the float chamber has been used up
(indicated by the engine stopping).
5 Remove the plugs and reconnect the fuel
inlet pipe to the carburettor, then restart the
engine. The surge of fuel into the float
chamber should clear the needle valve of dirt
or grit which may have caused the flooding. If
not, renew the carburettor.
Removal
6 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
15 Carburettor - dismantling,
overhaul and reassembly
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. Refer also to `Testing`, in
Section 13, before dismantling.
Dismantling
1 Wash the exterior of the carburettor with
paraffin and wipe dry.
2 Mark the float chamber cover about the
carburettor body. Remove the screws and
withdraw the cover and sealing ring.
3 Unscrew and remove the mixture screw
and withdraw the seal.
4 Unscrew the jet retaining screw and remove
the spring.
5 Withdraw the jet and bi-metal lever
assembly. Disengage the lever from the jet.
6 Unscrew and remove the float pivot and
seal.
7 Withdraw the float and the needle valve.
8 Unscrew and remove the needle valve seat.
9 Unscrew and remove the piston damper
and drain the oil.
10 On later models the carburettor piston
may have a circlip fitted to the tip of the guide
rod. Where this is so, push the piston fully into
the suction chamber and remove the circlip
before separating the components. Mark the
suction chamber with the carburettor body.
Remove the screws and withdraw the suction
chamber.
11 Remove the piston spring, and carefully
lift the piston and needle assembly from the
main body.
12 Unscrew the needle retaining grub screw.
Remove the needle, guide, and spring from
the piston.
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•11
15.27 Exploded view of the carburettor
1 Piston damper
2 Suction chamber
3 Spring
4 Piston
5 Grub screw
6 Spring
7 Needle
8 Guide
9 Lifting pin
10 Spring
11 Circlip
12 Throttle damper lever
13 Clamp bolt and nut
14 Seal
15 Throttle spindle
16 Throttle valve disc
17 Screw
18 Seal
19 Throttle lever
20 Fast idle adjustment
screw
21 Idle adjustment screw
22 Lockwasher
23 Nut
24 Return spring
25 Cold start seal
26 Cold start spindle
27 O-ring
28 Cold start body
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
Retaining plate
Seat
End cover
Screw
Return spring
Fast idle cam
Lockwasher
Nut
Main body
Spring washer
Identification tab
Screw
Seal
Mixture screw
Jet bearing
Jet bearing nut
Jet assembly
Bi-metal lever
Spring
Screw
Needle valve seat
Needle valve
Float
Seal
Pivot
Seal
Float chamber cover
Spring washer
Screw
loosen the nut and bolt and remove the
throttle damper lever.
26 Check the threaded end of the spindle
and the main body with each other, then
withdraw the spindle. Remove the two seals.
Overhaul
13 From beneath the main body, unscrew the
jet bearing nut and withdraw the bearing.
14 Note how the spring is attached to the
fast idle cam lever. Bend back the locktabs,
then unscrew the nut and remove the washer.
15 Hold the return spring against the main
body, and use a screwdriver to prise the cam
lever from the end of the cold start spindle.
Remove the spring.
16 Remove the end cover and spindle seat.
17 Remove the two screws and withdraw the
retaining plate, cold start body, and gasket.
18 Remove the O-ring from the end of the
cold start spindle, and withdraw the spindle
from the main body. Remove the cold start
seal.
19 Dismantling of the throttle spindle is not
recommended unless the components are
damaged or excessively worn. If they are, first
note how the return spring is attached to the
throttle lever.
20 Mark the throttle valve with the spindle
and main body.
21 Remove the throttle valve screws while
supporting the spindle with a block of wood if
necessary.
22 Open the throttle and withdraw the valve
disc.
23 Remove any burrs from the spindle screw
holes with a fine file.
24 Bend back the locktabs and unscrew the
spindle nut. Remove the lockwasher, plain
washer, throttle lever, and return spring.
25 From the opposite end of the spindle,
27 Clean all the components in fuel and allow
to dry. Thoroughly examine the components
for damage and excessive wear. In particular
check the throttle spindle and bearings for
wear. If excessive, renewal of the spindle may
be sufficient, but if the bearings are worn it
may be necessary to renew the complete
carburettor, as new bearings are not always
available. Check the needle valve and seating
for excessive ridging. Examine the main body
for cracks and for security of the brass fittings
and piston key. Check the tapered needle, jet,
and jet bearing for wear. Shake the float and
listen for any trapped fuel that may have
entered through a small crack or fracture.
Renew the components as necessary and
obtain a complete set of gaskets and seals,
and two new throttle valve screws if
necessary (see liiustration).
28 Clean the inside of the suction chamber
and the periphery of the piston with
methylated spirit. Do not use any form of
abrasive. Lubricate the piston rod with engine
oil and insert it into the suction chamber. Hold
the two components horizontal and spin the
piston in several positions; the piston must
spin freely without touching the suction
chamber.
4
4•12 Fuel and exhaust systems
15.46 Float level checking dimension (A)
Arrows indicate checking point
Early float (1) = 0.40 ± 0.200 in (1.0 ± 0.5 mm)
Later float (2) = 0.80 ± 0.200 in (2.0 ± 0.5 mm)
Reassembly
29 Begin reassembly by fitting the throttle
spindle and two seals to the main body. The
seals must be slightly recessed in their
housings.
30 Locate the return spring and throttle lever
on the end of the spindle, and fit the plain
washer, lockwasher, and nut. Tighten the nut
while holding the lever, and bend over the
locktabs to lock.
31 Engage the return spring with the throttle
lever and main body, and tension the spring.
32 Fit the throttle valve disc to the spindle in
its original position, and insert the new
screws, tightening them loosely (coat the
threads with a liquid locking agent).
33 Open and close the throttle several times
to settle the disc, then tighten the screws
while supporting the spindle on a block of
wood. Using a small chisel, spread the ends
of the screws to lock them.
34 Locate the throttle damper lever loosely
on the end of the spindle.
35 Locate the cold start seal in the main
body with the cut-out uppermost.
36 Insert the cold start spindle (hole
uppermost), and fit the O-ring.
37 Fit the cold start body with the cut-out
uppermost, and the retaining plate with the
slotted flange facing the throttle spindle. Use
a new gasket, then insert and tighten the
retaining screws.
38 Fit the spindle seat and end cover,
followed by the spring, cam lever, lockwasher,
and nut. Make sure that the spring is correctly
engaged, then tighten the nut and bend over
the locktabs to lock.
39 Insert the jet bearing and nut, and tighten
the nut.
40 Connect the bi-metal lever with the fuel
jet, making sure that the jet head moves freely
in the cut-out.
41 Insert the mixture screw and seal into the
main body. Fit the jet to the bearing, and at
the same time engage the slot in the bi-metal
lever with the small diameter of the mixture
screw.
42 Insert the jet retaining screw with the
spring, and tighten the screw.
43 Adjust the mixture screw so that the top
of the jet is flush with the venturi bridge.
44 Insert and tighten the needle valve seat,
and with the carburettor inserted, insert the
needle valve.
45 Position the float, then insert the pivot and
seal through the body and float and tighten.
46 A modified float is fitted from early 1987,
and the float level setting has been changed
both for the early and modified floats. It can
be checked by holding the carburettor
inverted, with the float keeping the needle
valve shut. Using a straight edge and feeler
blade, check that the centre portion of the
float is between 0.020 and 0.040 in (0.5 and
1.0 mm) below the surface of the float
chamber face (see illustration). If not, bend
the brass tab (or float arm on later types) that
contacts the needle valve as necessary.
47 Fit the float chamber cover in its original
position together with a new sealing ring.
Tighten the screws in diagonal sequence.
48 Insert the spring, needle, and guide into
the piston with the guide etch marks facing
the suction transfer holes and with the bottom
face of the guide flush with the bottom face of
the piston (see illustration).
49 Insert and tighten the guide retaining grub
screw.
50 Lower the piston and needle assembly
into the main body, at the same time engaging
the slot with the piston key.
51 Locate the spring over the piston rod.
52 Hold the suction chamber directly over
the piston with its location mark aligned with
the mark on the body, then lower it over the
spring and piston rod. It is important not to
tension the spring by twisting the suction
chamber.
15.48 Tapered needle installation
Arrows indicate etch mark location
53 Insert and tighten the suction chamber
retaining screws. Lift the piston with the
finger, then release it and check that it returns
to the venturi bridge without any assistance. If
not, it may be necessary to loosen the
retaining screws and slightly reposition the
suction chamber.
54 Pour clean engine oil into the top of the
suction chamber until the level is 0.5 in (13
mm) above the top of the hollow piston rod.
Refit and tighten the piston damper.
16 Carburettor - throttle damper
adjustment
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. The throttle damper is not
fitted to vehicles manufactured from early
1982.
1 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
2 Locate the throttle damper on the righthand side of the carburettor (see illustration).
Loosen the nut and bolt securing the clamp to
the throttle spindle.
3 Locate a 0.12 in (3 mm) thick feeler blade
between the clamp lever and the damper
plunger.
4 Depress the clamp lever until the plunger is
fully compressed, then tighten the nut and
bolt.
5 Release the clamp lever, and remove the
feeler blade.
6 Refit the air cleaner with reference to
Section 2.
17 Anti run-on valve (MG 1300
models) - removal and refitting
Removal
16.2 Throttle damper location
1 The anti run-on valve is mounted on a
bracket on the bulkhead (see illustration). Its
function is to prevent the engine running-on
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•13
be renewed at the specified interval, or the
mixture will become excessively weak during
part-load running. The filter must never be
omitted or the fuel consumption will increase.
19 Inlet and exhaust manifold removal and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
17.1 Anti-run-on valve is mounted on
bulkhead
Always fit a new manifold
gasket. A little sealing paste
will prevent the downpipe
joint(s) from leaking.
18.1 Carburettor vent filter location 1.0 litre models with high compression
economy engine
(“dieseling”) after the ignition is switched off. If
it is disconnected or broken it may prevent the
engine from idling or running at low speeds.
2 To remove the valve, disconnect the
electrical connectors and the hose from it.
3 Undo the bracket securing nut and remove
the valve complete with bracket.
Refitting
4 Refit in the reverse order, and check for
correct operation on completion.
18 Carburettor vent filter 1.0 litre economy models
The SU HIF carburettor requires an
unrestricted flow of air to the float chamber
through the vent pipe (see illustration). If the
pipe is becomes blocked, kinked or even
incorrectly routed the mixture will be weakened,
causing poor performance and difficult starting.
On 1.0 litre models fitted with “economy”
engines, a small air filter is fitted to the vent to
improve carburettor calibration. This filter must
19.1 Inlet and exhaust manifolds with
coolant heating for inlet - non-Turbo models
1
2
3
4
5
6
Inlet manifold
Exhaust manifold
Hot air shroud
Ferrules
Coolant inlet
Coolant outlet
Removal
1 For Turbo models refer to Section 20. On
some models, as described in Section 1, the
manifold may be split into two (see
illustration).
2 To remove the manifold, first remove the
carburettor as described in Sections 13 or 14.
3 Remove the clamp(s) securing the
downpipe(s) to the manifold. Disconnect and
plug the coolant hoses, if fitted.
4 Twist the plate on the heat stove, unscrew
the nuts, and withdraw the stove (see
illustrations).
5 Unscrew the remaining nuts, remove the
washers where fitted, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head (see
illustration). Although on some models, each
manifold may be removed separately, both
must be removed in order to renew the
gasket.
6 Remove the gasket. Clean the mating faces
of the manifold, cylinder head, and exhaust
system downpipe.
7 Before refitting the inlet manifold on nonTurbo models make sure that the ferrules are
positioned correctly in the cylinder head ports.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Always fit
a new manifold gasket. Make sure that the
downpipe is correctly located on the manifold
before fitting the clamp. A little sealing paste
will prevent the downpipe joint(s) from leaking.
On completion top-up the cooling system as
necessary.
19.4a Remove the retaining nuts . . .
19.4b. . . and withdraw the heat stove
19.5 Removing the manifold (1.3 HLS)
4
4•14 Fuel and exhaust systems
20.10 Inlet and exhaust manifolds with
coolant heating for inlet - Turbo models
1 Manifold gasket
2 Inlet manifold
3 Exhaust manifold
20 Turbocharger - removal,
inspection and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. Also note that, DIY repair to
the turbocharger is not possible. If the bearings
are worn, or some other malfunction is evident,
it should be exchanged for a new one.
Note: Ensure that the air cleaner element is
clean, the air inlet is unrestricted, that all
pressure sensing connections are tight and
that the engine itself is in good condition.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. Chock
the rear wheels, then raise and securely
support the front of the car.
2 Remove the U-bolt and clamp plate that
secure the exhaust downpipe.
3 Release the hose clip that secures the oil
drain hose to the turbochargers. Free the
hose from the adapter.
4 Disconnect and plug the coolant hoses
which supply the inlet manifold. Be prepared
for some coolant spillage.
5 Disconnect and plug the fuel hose from the
carburettor. Be prepared for some fuel
spillage.
6 Disconnect the air pressure hose from the
plenum chamber. Remove the heat shield
from the plenum chamber, slacken the inlet
hose clip, undo the two through-bolts and
remove the plenum chamber.
7 Free the crankcase ventilation system oil
trap from the flywheel housing. Disconnect
the banjo union from the inlet manifold and
the vacuum advance pipe from the
carburettor. Move the hoses to one side.
8 Remove the heat shields from the clutch
master cylinder and from the flywheel
housing.
20.19 Measuring turbine bearing radial clearance (A) and axial clearance (B)
9 Release the manifold securing nuts.
Unscrew the nuts that secure the inlet
manifold as far as the ends of their studs.
10 Work the inlet manifold and carburettor
free of the manifold gasket and off the studs.
Move the assembly to one side (see
illustration).
11 Disconnect the air inlet hose and the
boost control hose from the turbocharger
housing.
12 Remove the clamp that secures the
exhaust pipe to the turbocharger elbow.
13 Disconnect the oil supply pipe at the
warning light switch adapter.
14 Support the engine/gearbox assembly
with a jack (preferably a trolley jack), using a
piece of wood to spread the load.
15 Remove the nut and washers from the
rear right-hand engine mounting. Depending
on the flexibility of the remaining mountings,
the front right-hand mounting may also need
to be disconnected.
16 Remove the nuts from the manifold studs.
Raise the engine on the jack sufficiently to
extract
the
exhaust
manifold
and
turbocharger together, at the same time
freeing the drain hose.
17 Separate the turbocharger from the
exhaust manifold. If necessary, remove the oil
feed pipe and drain elbow, and the exhaust
pipe adapter.
The clearances must not exceed the values
given in the Specifications.
20 If a regulated compressed air supply is
available, apply air pressure to the wastegate
actuator and check that the wastegate
operates at 4 lbf/in2 (0.28 kgf/cm2).
Refitting
21 If a new turbocharger is being fitted,
lubricate the bearings by pouring clean engine
oil into the oil inlet port, rotating the
compressor wheel at the same time. Drain the
oil afterwards.
22 Refitting the turbocharger is a reversal of
the removal procedure, but note the following
points.
a) Use a copper-based anti-seize compound
on all nuts, bolts and studs.
b) Use new gaskets for the inlet manifold-toengine and manifold-to-carburettor joints
(the latter only if it has been disturbed).
Make sure that the mating faces are
clean.
c) Make sure that the oil feed pipe is not
strained or kinked, and that both its
unions are tightened to the specified
torque.
d) Remember to give the unit time to fill with
oil before revving the engine.
21 Pressure reducing valve testing, removal and refitting
Inspection
18 Do not immerse the turbocharger in
solvent for cleaning purposes. Use solvent if
necessary to clean the outside of the
wastegate housing, and use a scraper or wire
brush to remove carbon. Make sure that the
wastegate moves freely.
19 If a dial gauge indicator is available, the
radial and axial clearances of the turbine
bearings may be measured (see illustration).
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 The pressure reducing valve and solenoid
(sometimes together referred to as the boost
solenoid valve), are located next to the fuel
pressure regulator. Access is improved by
moving aside the expansion tank and the
cooling fan relay (see illustration).
Fuel and exhaust systems 4•15
the back). Be prepared for the dump valve
piston and spring to be released (see
illustration).
4 Renew the piston and spring if the
operation of the dump valve is suspect. There
is no easy way of testing the components
except by substitution.
Refitting
5 Refit in the reverse order to removal, using
new gaskets throughout.
23 Wastegate actuator - testing
Testing
21.1 Fuel pressure regulator and pressure
reducing valve
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel outlet hose
Pressure sensing hose
Fuel inlet hose
Pressure reducing valve solenoid
Pressure reducing valve
Pressure hose
2 The solenoid may be tested in situ by
applying the battery voltage directly to its
terminals, when it should be heard to operate.
It may be removed independently of the valve.
Removal
3 To remove the solenoid and valve together,
unscrew the fuel regulator valve bracket. Turn
the bracket on its side and unscrew the fuel
regulator valve from the bracket.
4 Disconnect the pressure hose and unbolt
the valve and solenoid.
5 Separate the solenoid and valve if wished.
No repair is possible.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure
that the vent hole in the valve is clear. If fitting
a new valve, a blanking plug may be fitted for
protection in transit. This plug should be
removed before fitting the valve.
1 The wastegate actuator may be tested in
situ by applying compressed air at 4 lbf/in2
(0.28 kgf/cm 2) to its pressure hose
connection.
2 If the actuator fails to operate, temporarily
remove its connecting rod and repeat the test.
Continued failure means that the fault is in the
actuator itself; if the actuator now operates,
the fault is seizure of the wastegate, which
may be rectified by removal and thorough
cleaning. Refer to Section 20, paragraphs 11,
through to 22.
3 At the time of writing, the actuator unit was
not available separately from the complete
turbocharger. Removal and refitting are selfexplanatory, but take care not to alter the
actuating rod adjustment.
24 Electronic control unit removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the pressure hose from the
plenum chamber and remove the heat shield.
2 Slacken the compressor hose clip, undo
the bolts and remove the plenum chamber
from the carburettor.
3 Remove the diffuser pipe from the plenum
chamber (two bolts at the front and one nut at
1 Valve housing
2 Piston
3 Spring
3 Disconnect the pressure hose from the
pressure reducing valve.
4 Unscrew the fuel pressure regulator bracket
and turn the bracket to gain access to the
regulator screws. Unscrew the regulator from
the bracket.
5 Slide back the hose clips and disconnect
the air pressure hose and the fuel hoses. Be
prepared for some fuel spillage. Plug the fuel
hoses.
6 No repairs to the fuel pressure regulator are
possible. Do not attempt to alter the
adjustment screw, which is preset and must
not be moved.
Refitting
Removal
1 The electronic control unit (ECU) is reached
from inside the vehicle. Begin by removing the
glovebox (see Chapter 11), and pulling back
the carpet.
2 Remove the closing panel and unscrew the
mounting bracket from the front panel.
3 Unplug the electrical connector and
disconnect the pressure hose, then remove
the ECU complete with bracket.
4 No DIY testing procedures exist for the
ECU, other than testing by substitution of a
known good unit.
Refitting
22 Dump valve - removal and
refitting
22.3 Dump valve components
5 Refitting is the reverse of removal.
25 Fuel pressure regulator removal and refitting
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
2 Free the fuel pump relay and the expansion
tank, and move them to one side.
7 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Use new
hoses and/or clips if the condition of the old
items is in doubt.
26 Exhaust elbow gasket (if
fitted) - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels, then raise and
securely support the front of the vehicle.
2 Remove the U-bolt and clamp which secure
the exhaust pipe to the transmission.
3 Unscrew the clutch damper bracket and
move it to one side. Remove the heat shield
and disconnect the brake servo hose.
4 Remove the clamp that secures the exhaust
downpipe to the elbow.
5 Relieve the locking tabs, then remove the
retaining bolts from the exhaust elbow.
6 Remove the exhaust elbow and gasket.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new
gasket and (ideally) new locktabs, and use
high temperature anti-seize compound on the
elbow bolts.
4
4•16 Fuel and exhaust systems
27 Exhaust system - removal and
refitting
Removal
27.3 Exhaust system intermediate
mounting
1 To remove the exhaust system, jack up the
front and rear of the car and support it on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
Alternatively, locate the front wheels on car
ramps and jack up the rear and support with
axle stands.
2 Lift the spare wheel cover in the luggage
compartment and unscrew the rear exhaust
mounting nut. Remove the lockwasher and
plain washer.
3 Working under the car, disconnect the
intermediate
rubber
mountings
(see
illustration), lower the rear section, and
remove the rear mounting.
4 Unscrew the nuts and remove the two
mounting plates and U-bolt. Tap around the
joint with a hammer, and twist the rear section
from the front section, removing it from the
rear of the car. If necessary, carefully heat the
joint with a blowlamp to assist removal, but
shield the fuel tank, fuel lines, and underbody
adequately from heat.
5 Remove the front downpipe clamp(s), and
remove the bolt from the front mounting
clamp (see illustrations).
6 Lower the front exhaust from the car.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit the
downpipe(s) to the manifold before finally
positioning the rear section to the rear
mounting and tightening the intermediate
clamp (see illustrations). Use a little sealing
paste at the manifold joint(s) to prevent
leakage. Run the engine and check for leaks
as described in Chapter 1.
28 Exhaust downpipes modification
27.5a Exhaust system front downpipe
clamp
27.5b Exhaust system front mounting
clamp (1.3 HLS)
1 On cars subject to continual heavy use the
exhaust downpipe may fracture just behind
the first bend. To overcome this problem, a
spring-tensioned balljoint is now fitted to
allow slight flexing.
2 On MG Turbo models with a single
downpipe, the balljoint is fitted with a single
tensioning spring, but on twin downpipe
models two springs are fitted.
3 The modified twin downpipe exhaust may
be fitted instead of the earlier type, but it will
be necessary to fit new exhaust mountings
and new mounting brackets to the
transmission and rear subframe. MG Turbotype engine mountings should also be fitted.
27.7a Exhaust system components (except MG Turbo)
1 Front exhaust system for
998 cc low compression
engine
2 Clip
3 Front exhaust system for
998 cc high compression
and 1275 cc engines
4 Bolt
5 Washer
6 Washer
7 Nut
8 Bracket
9 Clamp kit (998 cc low
compression)
10 Clamp kit (998 cc high
compression and 1275 cc
engines)
11 Clip
12 Upper mounting bracket
13 Lower mounting bracket
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Mounting rubber
U-bolt
Washer
Nut
Rear exhaust system
Rear mounting
Washer
Spring washer
Nut
27.7b Exhaust system fitted to MG Turbo
Later type also has a spring-tensioned
balljoint in the downpipe section
5•1
Chapter 5
Engine electrical systems
Contents
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Alternator - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Alternator brushes - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Coil - description and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Condenser - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Contact breaker points - checking, adjustment and
renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Electronic ignition amplifier - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . . .9
Electronic ignition system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Electronic ignition system - static timing . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Electronic ignition system - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Mechanical ignition system - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Mechanical ignition timing - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Spark plugs and HT leads - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Starter motor - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Thermostatically-operated vacuum switch - general, removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
System type
...........................................
12 volt battery (negative earth), coil and distributor
Battery
Capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Type:
Lucas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chloride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Charge condition:
Poor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Normal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Good . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
30 amp hr or 40 amp hr
007 or 063
170/60/89 or 190/60/90
12.5 volts
12.6 volts
12.7 volts
Coil
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ballast resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lucas, Ducellier, Bosch, Unipart or AC Delco
1.3 to 1.5 ohms
Distributor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All 1985-on (except van) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rotor rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Contact breaker gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Condenser capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Centrifugal advance (decelerating):
998 cc - at 4800 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 2800 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 1500 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 600 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1275 cc - at 5200 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 2800 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 2500 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 1600 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
- at 700 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lucas or Ducellier
Lucas (electronic)
Lucas (electronic)
See Chapter 1 Specifications
Anti-clockwise
See Chapter 1 Specifications
See Chapter 1 Specifications
0.18 to 0.25 mfd
22° to 26°
14° to 18°
10° to 14°
0° to 2°
24° to 28°
23° to 27°
16° to 20°
8° to 12°
0° to 4°
5
5•2 Engine electrical system
Vacuum advance (maximum):
998 cc (except HLE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
998 cc (HLE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1275 cc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lubricant type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12° to 16° at 11 in (279 mm) Hg
14° to 16° at 9 in (229 mm) Hg
14° to 18° at 8 in (203 mm) Hg
Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/50 or 10W/40
Firing order
1-3-4-2
............................................
Ignition timing at 1500 rpm (with vacuum disconnected)
998 cc
1980:
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982:
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983:
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984:
Engines 99HA06P and 99HA08P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985-on:
High compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on 95 RON unleaded fuel specification
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1275 cc
1980 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1982:
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vanden Plas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1983:
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984:
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vanden Plas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985-on:
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG, Sport and Vanden Plas manual gearbox:
Engines 12HA83AA, 12HC14AA, 12HD17AA and 12HD24AA . . . .
Engines 12HB42AA, 12HC15AA, 12HD25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on 95 RON unleaded fuel specification:
Low compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Standard and high compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo
1982 to 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1985-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8° ± 2° BTDC
15° BTDC
7° BTDC
15° BTDC
5° to 7° BTDC
15° BTDC
5° to 7° BTDC
15° BTDC
5° to 7° BTDC
14 to 16° BTDC
15°± 1° BTDC
5° ± 1° TDC
11° BTDC
13° BTDC
11° BTDC
10° BTDC
11° BTDC
13° BTDC
9° BTDC
11° BTDC
13° BTDC
11° BTDC
7° to 9° BTDC
10° BTDC
11° BTDC
13° BTDC
7° to 9° BTDC
10° BTDC
5° BTDC
13° ± 1° BTDC
5° ± 1°
7° BTDC
7° ± 1° BTDC
Alternator
Early models
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Output at 14 volt and 3000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lucas or Motorola
43 amp (Lucas), 45 amp (Motorola)
0.3 in (8 mm)
Later models
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Output at 14 volt and 6000 rpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum brush length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lucas
45 or 55 amps
0.4 in (10.0 mm)
Engine electrical system 5•3
Starter motor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lucas inertia or pre-engaged
Torque wrench settings
lbf ft
9
27
16
27
16
16
18
27
Alternator adjusting link to alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator adjusting link to front plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator bracket to crankcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator pulley nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator top fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Distributor clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Starter motor retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 Mechanical ignition system description
Note: Although repair procedures are given in
this Chapter, it may well be more economical
to renew worn components as complete units.
Description
The electrical system is of 12 volt negative
earth type. The battery is charged by a beltdriven alternator which incorporates a voltage
regulator. The starter motor is of inertia or preengaged type and incorporates four brushes
and a face-type commutator. On the inertia
type, the drive pinion is thrown into
engagement with the flywheel ring gear by the
movement of the starter motor. On the preengaged type, a solenoid moves the drive
pinion into engagement before the starter
motor is energised.
A conventional ignition system is fitted,
comprising the battery, coil, distributor and
spark plugs. The distributor is driven by a
driveshaft in mesh with the camshaft.
In order that the engine can run correctly, it
is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite
the fuel/air mixture in the combustion
chamber at exactly the right moment in
relation to engine speed and load. The ignition
system is based on feeding low tension
voltage from the battery to the coil, where it is
converted to high tension voltage. The high
tension voltage is powerful enough to jump
the spark plug gap in the cylinders many
times a second under high compression,
providing that the system is in good condition
and that all adjustments are correct.
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits, the low tension circuit and the high
tension circuit. The low tension (sometimes
known as the primary) circuit consists of the
battery, lead to the ignition switch, lead from
the ignition switch to the low tension or primary
coil windings (terminal +), and the lead from the
low tension coil windings (coil terminal -) to the
contact breaker points and condenser in the
distributor. The high tension circuit consists of
the high tension or secondary coil windings,
the heavy ignition lead from the coil to the
distributor cap, the rotor arm, and the spark
plug leads and spark plugs.
The system functions in the following
manner. Low tension voltage is changed in the
coil into high tension voltage by the opening
and closing of the contact breaker points in
the low tension circuit. High tension voltage is
then fed via the carbon brush in the centre of
the distributor cap to the rotor arm of the
distributor, and each time it comes in line with
one of the four metal segments in the cap,
which are connected to the spark plug leads,
the opening and closing of the contact breaker
points causes the high tension voltage to build
up, jump the gap from the rotor arm to the
appropriate metal segment, and so via the
spark plug lead to the spark plug, where it
finally jumps the spark plug gap before going
to earth. The ignition is advanced and retarded
automatically, to ensure that the spark occurs
at just the right instant for the particular load at
the prevailing engine speed.
The ignition advance is controlled both
mechanically and by a vacuum operated
system. The mechanical governor mechanism
comprises two weights, which move out from
the distributor shaft as the engine speed rises
due to centrifugal force. As they move outwards
they rotate the cam relative to the distributor
shaft, and so advance the spark. The weights
are held in position by two light springs and it is
the tension of the springs which is largely
responsible for correct spark advancement.
The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected
via a small bore tube to the carburettor, and
the other side to the contact breaker plate.
Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburettor, which varies with engine speed
and throttle opening, causes the diaphragm to
move, so moving the contact breaker plate,
and advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the vacuum assembly.
The ignition system incorporates a resistive
wire which is in circuit all the time that the
Nm
12
37
22
37
22
22
25
37
engine is running. When the starter is
operated, the resistance is bypassed to
provide increased voltage at the spark plugs.
Early models were fitted with distributors
with self-cleaning contact breaker points.
2 Electronic ignition system description
Warning: Because of the high
voltages generated, care should
be taken to avoid receiving
personal electric shocks from
the HT system. This is
particularly important for anyone fitted
with an artificial cardiac pacemaker.
Description
The Lucas electronic ignition system
consists of a distributor, an amplifier module
and a coil. Externally, the distributor
resembles a conventional type, but internally
a reluctor and a pick-up unit take the place of
the cam and contact breaker points.
Each time one of the reluctor teeth or arms
passes through the magnetic field of the pickup coil, an electrical signal is sent to the
amplifier module which then triggers the coil in
the same way as the opening of the points in a
conventional system. Both centrifugal and
vacuum advance are used in the same manner.
Because there are no contact breaker
points to wear out, the electronic ignition
system is extremely reliable. As long as the
distributor is lubricated and the spark plugs
inspected or renewed at the specified
intervals, and leads and connections are kept
clean and dry, it is very unlikely that trouble
will be experienced.
3 Battery - removal and refitting
Removal
3.3 Battery positive terminal and lead
1 The battery is located on the right-hand
side of the engine compartment.
2 Lift the plastic cover from the negative
terminal, loosen the clamp bolt, and remove
the lead.
3 Lift the plastic cover from the positive
terminal, loosen the clamp bolt, and remove
the lead (see illustration).
4 Loosen the battery retaining bar nuts and
completely remove the nuts from one side.
5
5•4 Engine electrical system
5 Swivel the bar to one side, and unhook the
two rods.
6 Lift the battery from the carrier platform,
taking care not to spill any electrolyte on the
bodywork.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the polarity is correct before
connecting the leads, and do not overtighten
the clamp bolts.
4 Battery - testing and charging
Testing
Standard and low-maintenance
battery
1 If the vehicle covers a small annual mileage,
it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity
of the electrolyte every three months, to
determine the state of charge of the battery.
Use a hydrometer to make the check, and
compare the results with the following table.
Note that the specific gravity readings assume
an electrolyte temperature of 15°C (60°F); for
every 10°C (50°F) below 15°C (60°F), subtract
0.007. For every 10°C (50°F) above 15°C
(60°F), add 0.007. However, for convenience,
the temperatures quoted in the following table
are ambient (outdoor air) temperatures, above
or below 25°C (77°F):
Above 25ºC
Below 25ºC
Charged
1.210 to 1.230 1.270 to 1.290
70% charged 1.170 to 1.190 1.230 to 1.250
Discharged 1.050 to 1.070 1.110 to 1.130
2 If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or more
between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte
or deterioration of the internal plates.
3 If the specific gravity variation is 0.040 or
more, the battery should be renewed. If the
cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is
discharged, it should be charged as
described later in this Section.
Maintenance-free battery
4 In cases where a “sealed for life”
maintenance-free battery is fitted, topping-up
and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not
possible. The condition of the battery can
therefore only be tested using a battery
condition indicator or a voltmeter.
5 A battery with a built-in charge condition
indicator may be fitted. The indicator is located
in the top of the battery casing, and indicates
the condition of the battery from its colour. If
the indicator shows green, then the battery is
in a good state of charge. If the indicator turns
darker, eventually to black, then the battery
requires charging, as described later in this
Section. If the indicator shows clear/yellow,
then the electrolyte level in the battery is too
low to allow further use, and the battery should
be renewed. Do not attempt to charge, load or
jump-start a battery when the indicator shows
clear/yellow.
6 If testing the battery using a voltmeter,
connect the voltmeter across the battery, and
compare the result with those given in the
Specifications under “charge condition”. The
test is only accurate if the battery has not
been subjected to any kind of charge for the
previous six hours, including charging by the
alternator. If this is not the case, switch on the
headlights for 30 seconds, then wait four to
five minutes after switching off the headlights
before testing the battery. All other electrical
circuits must be switched off, so check (for
instance) that the doors and tailgate or boot
lid are fully shut when making the test.
7 If the voltage reading is less than 12.2 volts,
then the battery is discharged. A reading of
12.2 to 12.4 volts indicates a partiallydischarged condition.
8 If the battery is to be charged, remove it
from the vehicle (Section 3) and charge it as
described in the following paragraphs.
Charging
Standard and low-maintenance
battery
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4
amps, and continue to charge the battery at
this rate until no further rise in specific gravity
is noted over a four-hour period.
10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at
the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used
overnight.
11 Specially rapid “boost” charges which are
claimed to restore the power of the battery in
1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
12 While charging the battery, note that the
temperature of the electrolyte should never
exceed 37.8°C (100°F).
Maintenance-free battery
Note: The following is intended as a guide
only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s
recommendations (often printed on a label
attached to the battery) before charging a
battery.
13 This battery type requires a longer period
to fully recharge than the standard type, the
time taken being dependent on the extent of
discharge, but it can take anything up to three
days.
14 A constant-voltage type charger is
required, to be set, where possible, to 13.9 to
14.9 volts with a charger current below 25
amps. Using this method, the battery should
be usable within three hours, giving a voltage
reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a partiallydischarged battery and, as mentioned, full
charging can take considerably longer.
15 Use of a normal trickle charger should not
be detrimental to the battery, provided
excessive gassing is not allowed to occur,
and the battery is not allowed to become hot.
5 Condenser - testing, removal
and refitting
Testing
1 The condenser is fitted in parallel with the
contact points, and its purpose is to reduce
arcing between the points, and also to
accelerate the collapse of the coil low tension
magnetic field. A faulty condenser can cause
the complete failure of the ignition system, as
the points will be prevented from interrupting
the low tension circuit.
2 To test the condenser, remove the
distributor cap and rotate the engine until the
contact points are closed. Switch on the
ignition and separate the points. If this is
accompanied by a strong blue flash, the
condenser is faulty (a weak spark is normal).
3 A further test can be made, for short
circuiting, by removing the condenser and
using a test lamp and leads connected to the
supply lead and body. If the test lamp lights,
the condenser is faulty.
4 The most infallible test is to substitute a
new unit and check whether the fault persists.
Removal
5 To remove the condenser, first remove the
distributor as described in Section 6 and
clamp it lightly in a vice.
Lucas type
6 Remove the rotor arm, and push the low
tension lead and grommet in through the hole
in the body.
7 Press the moving contact spring from the
insulator post, and slide out the low tension
lead connector.
8 Remove the retaining screw and earth lead
and
withdraw
the
condenser
(see
illustration).
Ducellier type
9 Pull the supply lead from the block on the
side of the distributor.
10 Remove the retaining screw and withdraw
the condenser.
Refitting - all types
11 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure.
5.8 Removing the condenser (Lucas)
Engine electrical system 5•5
5
6.1b Exploded view of a Ducellier
distributor
6.1a Exploded view of a Lucas distributor
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Condenser
Baseplate assembly
Felt pad
Steel washer
LT lead
Drive dog
Roll pin
10 Thrustwasher
11 Vacuum unit
12 Arm
13 Spacer
14 Centrifugal
advance mechanism
15 Contact set
16 Pick-up brush
6 Distributor - removal and
refitting
Removal
Note: For better access to the distributor, the
radiator may be temporarily moved to one side
without disconnecting the top and bottom
hoses, see Chapter 3 for details. This is
1
2
3
4
5
6
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Clip
Contact set
Clip
Serrated cam
7 Eccentric D-post
8 Baseplate
9 Felt pad
10 Body
11 Vacuum unit
12 Condenser
particularly advantageous on 1985-on 1.3
engines where the electronic ignition amplifier
module restricts access to the distributor
clamp bolt. Also note that the distributor cap
is retained with screws on 1985-on 1.3
models (see illustrations). The distributor is
designed to operate over very high mileage,
and when wear eventually takes place,
particularly between the shaft and body, the
complete distributor should be renewed.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6.1C Exploded view of a 59 DM4
distributor
1
2
3
4
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Anti-flash shield
O-ring, washer and
circlip
5 Reluctor and
coupling ring
6 Pick-up coil and
baseplate assembly
6A Pick-up limb
7 Wiring guide
8 Felt pad
9 Distributor shaft
10 Distributor body
11 O-ring
12 Vacuum unit
2 Remove No 1 spark plug (crankshaft pulley
end) and place the thumb over the aperture.
3 Turn the engine in the normal running
direction (clockwise from crankshaft pulley
end) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder,
indicating that the piston is commencing its
compression stroke. Use a spanner on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, or engage top gear and
pull the car forwards.
4 Continue turning the engine until the Vnotch in the crankshaft pulley is exactly in line
5•6 Engine electrical system
6.1D Exploded view of a 65 DM4
distributor
1 Distributor cap, carbon brush
and spring
2 Rotor arm
3 Upper housing
4 Vacuum unit
5 Stator pack, thrustwashers and
circlip
6 Pick-up winding
7 Clamp ring
8 Reluctor, centrifugal advance
mechanism, and shaft assembly
9 Thrustwasher
10 Lower housing
11 O-ring
12 Drive dog and thrustwasher
13 Connector and gasket
14 Amplifier module
Inset indicates correct rotor armto-drive dog offset
6.5 Removing the distributor cap
6.8A Unscrewing the distributor base
clamp bolt (engine removed)
6.8B Unscrewing the distributor base
clamp bolt (engine in car)
with the timing cover pointer top dead centre
(TDC) mark. Note that the large pointer
indicates TDC, and the remaining pointer
peaks are in increments of 4º BTDC.
5 Make a mark on the distributor body in line
with the No 1 spark plug HT lead terminal in
the distributor cap. Remove the cap and
check that the rotor arm is pointing to the
mark (see illustration).
6 Make a further mark on the cylinder block in
line with the previous mark.
7 Disconnect the low tension lead and the
vacuum advance pipe.
8 Remove the single base clamp bolt and
withdraw the distributor from the cylinder
block. Remove the clamp plate (see
illustrations).
10 Turn the body to align the previously
made marks on the body and cylinder block.
Provided that the engine has not been turned,
the rotor arm should also point towards the
mark on the body.
11 Fit the clamp and tighten the securing
bolt, then refit the distributor cap and
reconnect the low tension lead.
12 Refit the No 1 spark plug and HT lead.
Reconnect the battery negative lead.
13 Check and, if necessary, adjust the
ignition timing as described in Chapter 1, then
refit the vacuum advance pipe.
6.9A Installing the distributor
(engine removed)
6.9B Installing the distributor
(engine in car)
Refitting
9 To refit the distributor, slide it into the
cylinder block and engage the offset drive dog
with the driveshaft (see illustrations).
Engine electrical system 5•7
the HT system first before proceeding to the
7 Electronic ignition system testing
table below.
An
electrical
multi-meter
which
can
measure voltage and resistance (ohms) will be
Testing
Electronic ignition is normally very reliable;
if it does fail, such failure tends to be
complete. In cases of misfiring, or other
intermittent faults, it is probably best to check
required for testing purposes. Such a meter
need not be very expensive and is a useful
addition to the electrically-minded mechanic’s
tool kit.
8 Thermostatically-operated
vacuum switch - general,
removal and refitting
General
1 Models fitted with catalytic converters have
a thermostatically operated vacuum switch
screwed into the cylinder head water outlet
Models fitted with 59 DM4 distributor
1 Is the reluctor air gap set to the specified dimension?
2 Is the battery voltage greater than 11.5 volts?
3 Is the voltage at the coil “+” terminal more than 1 volt below battery
voltage?
4 Is the voltage at the coil “-” terminal more than 2 volts?
5 Is the voltage at the coil “-” terminal now more than 2 volts?
6 Is the voltage at the ignition amplifier earth more than 0.1 volts?
7 Is the pick-up coil resistance measured at the wiring connector
ignition terminals between 2.2k ohms and 4.8k ohms?
8 Does the voltage at the coil “-” terminal drop when the starter motor
is operated?
Yes: Proceed to Test 2
No: Adjust the gap, as described in Chapter 1, Section 16
Yes: Proceed to Test 3
No: Recharge the battery
Yes: Faulty wiring or connector between ignition switch and coil, or
faulty ignition switch
No: Proceed to Test 4
Yes: Disconnect the wiring connector between distributor and ignition
amplifier and proceed toTest 7
No: Disconnect the ignition amplifier lead at the coil “-” terminal and
proceed to Test 5
Yes: Proceed to Test 6
No: Renew the ignition coil
Yes: Clean and/or repair the earth connection
No: Renew the ignition amplifier
Yes: Reconnect the wiring connector between distributor and
amplifier and proceed to Test 8
No: Renew the pick-up coil assembly in the distributor
Yes: Check and adjust the ignition timing. If the fault still exists the
problem may lie with the engine internal components
No: Renew the ignition amplifier
Models fitted with 65 DM4 distributor
1 Is the battery voltage greater than 11.7 volts?
2 Is the voltage at the coil “+” terminal within 1 volt of battery voltage?
3 Is the resistance between the ignition coil “+” and “-” terminals
between 0.4 and 0.9 ohms?
4 Is the resistance between the ignition coil “+” and HT terminals
between 5.0 and 15.0 k ohms?
5 Connect a low-wattage bulb across the ignition coil “+” and “-”
terminals and spin the engine on the starter. Does the bulb flash?
6 Is the resistance of any HT lead greater than 20 k ohms?
7 Are there signs of tracking on the ignition coil, distributor cap or
rotor arm?
8 Is the ignition timing correct?
9 Are the spark plugs in good condition?
10 Are the module connections good?
11 With the module removed, is the resistance of the distributor
pick-up coil between 950 and 1150 ohms?
Yes: Proceed to Test 2
No: Recharge the battery
Yes: Proceed to Test 3
No: Faulty wiring or connector between ignition switch and coil, or
faulty ignition switch
Yes: Proceed to Test 4
No: Renew the ignition coil
Yes: Proceed to Test 5
No: Renew the ignition coil
Yes: Proceed to Test 6
No: Proceed to Test 10
Yes: Renew the HT lead
No: Proceed to Test 7
Yes: Renew the component as necessary
No: Proceed to Test 8
Yes: Proceed to Test 9
No: Adjust ignition timing
Yes: Check carburettor settings and engine mechanical condition
No: Renew the spark plugs
Yes: Proceed to Test 11
No: Refer to Section 9, paragraphs 5 to 8
Yes: Refer to Section 9, paragraphs 5 to 8
No: Renew the distributor pick-up coil
5
5•8 Engine electrical system
elbow; the small-bore vacuum pipe being in
two lengths that are connected from the
carburettor to the switch and from the switch
to the distributor. At coolant temperatures
below 70°C (158°F) the switch prevents any
vacuum advance from taking place, causing
raised exhaust gas temperatures due to the
retarded ignition timing, thus bringing the
catalytic converter to its efficient operating
temperature more quickly. Once coolant
temperatures rise above this point, the switch
opens and normal vacuum advance is
restored.
2 To check the switch, first check the ignition
timing (see Chapter 1). Unplug and reconnect
the vacuum pipe at the distributor; the ignition
timing should advance as the pipe is
reconnected, retarding again when it is
disconnected. If the ignition timing does not
alter, check that the vacuum pipe is clear of
blockages or kinks and that it is not leaking.
Suck on the carburettor end of the pipe; if
there is no effect on the ignition timing, then
the vacuum unit or switch is faulty and must
be renewed. The switch can be eliminated by
connecting a vacuum pipe directly from the
carburettor to the distributor; if the vacuum
advance is then restored to normal the switch
is proven faulty and must be renewed. Any
more detailed tests must be left to a Rover
dealer.
Removal
3 To remove the switch, either drain the
cooling system (Chapter 3), or be prepared for
some loss of coolant as the switch is
unscrewed. If it is decided not to drain the
cooling system, work quickly to minimise
coolant loss. Disconnect and plug the vacuum
pipes, then unscrew the switch and withdraw
it; plug the opening to prevent the entry of dirt.
Refitting
4 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
a) Wipe the threads of the switch and the
elbow clean.
b) If a sealing washer is fitted, renew it
whenever it is disturbed to prevent leaks;
if no sealing washer is fitted, apply a
smear of sealant to the switch threads.
c) Tighten the switch securely and
reconnect the vacuum pipes.
d) Refit any components removed to
improve access.
e) Refill or top-up the cooling system, as
applicable (Chapter 3).
ignition coil in response to signals received
from the pick-up coil in the distributor.
2 The amplifier may be tested using the
procedure described in Section 7. If it is found
to be faulty it should be renewed.
Removal
3 To remove the unit, disconnect the battery
earth lead and then disconnect the wiring plug
from the end of the amplifier. Undo the
bracket retaining screws and remove the
bracket complete with amplifier. The amplifier
can then be removed if wished.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure
that there is good mechanical; and electrical
contact between the amplifier and its bracket
(which also serves as a heat sink) and
between the bracket and its mounting area.
1985-on models
General
5 On later models the amplifier is attached to
the distributor. If, after carrying out the test
procedure described in Section 7, the
amplifier module is diagnosed as being faulty,
make sure that the wiring is intact and secure.
6 As a double-check remove the module,
gasket and connector, and lightly squeeze
together the terminals inside the connector.
Clean the terminals in the module and
distributor before refitting the module, and
remember to apply heat-conducting silicone
grease to the mounting face on the distributor.
7 Disconnect the wiring from the module,
clean the terminals, and lightly squeeze
together the terminals inside the connector
before refitting it. Make sure that the
connector is fully located over the base.
8 Check that the LT leads are correctly fitted
to the ignition coil.
10 Coil - description and testing
Description
Pre-1985 models
1 The coil is bolted to the front of the engine,
and it should be periodically wiped down to
prevent high tension (HT) voltage loss through
possible arcing.
2 To ensure the correct HT polarity at the
spark plugs, the LT coil leads must always be
connected correctly. The LT lead from the
distributor should be connected to the
negative (-) terminal on the coil. Incorrect
connections can cause bad starting, misfiring,
and short spark plug life.
General
Testing
1 The ignition amplifier is mounted on the
bonnet lock platform, near the ignition coil.
The amplifier controls the function of the
3 Accurate testing of the coil requires special
equipment, and for the home mechanic the
easiest test is by substitution of a new unit.
9 Electronic ignition amplifier general, removal and refitting
11 Alternator - testing
Note: To carry out the complete test
procedure, use only the following test
equipment - 0 to 20 volt moving coil
voltmeter, 0 to 100 amp moving coil ammeter.
Testing
1 Check that the battery is at least 70%
charged by using a hydrometer (Section 4).
2 Check the drivebelt tension (Chapter 1).
3 Check the security of the battery terminal
leads,
alternator
multi-plug(s),
and
interconnecting wire.
4 To check the cable continuity, pull the
multi-plug(s) from the alternator terminals and
switch on the ignition, being careful not to
crank the engine. Connect the voltmeter
between a good earth and each of the
terminals in the multi-plug in turn. If battery
voltage is not indicated, there is an open
circuit in the wiring, which may be due to a
blown ignition warning light bulb if on the
small terminal.
5 To check the alternator output, disconnect
the multi-plug(s), and connect the ammeter
between either of the large alternator output
terminals and a bridging wire connector
between the large terminals in the multi-plug.
Connect a further bridging wire between the
small terminals of the multi-plug and
alternator (see illustration). Run the engine at
approximately 3000 rpm with the headlamps,
heated rear window, and heater blower
switched on, for one minute only. The
ammeter should indicate the specified output
of the alternator; if not, the alternator is faulty.
6 To check the charging circuit voltage drop,
remove all previously fitted bridging wires and
refit the multi-plug(s) to the alternator.
Remove the cover from the multi-plug and
connect the voltmeter between the battery
positive terminal and either of the large
alternator output terminals. Switch on the
headlamps, heated rear window, and heater
blower, and run the engine at approximately
3000 rpm. A dirty connection in the charging
circuit is indicated if the voltmeter reads more
than 0.5 volts.
11.5 Checking the alternator output
Arrow shows bridging wire, ‘A’ indicates
ammeter connections
Engine electrical system 5•9
Motorola alternator, or between 13.6 and 14.4
volts for a Lucas alternator. If not, the voltage
regulator is faulty.
12 Alternator - removal and
refitting
Removal
11.7 Checking the voltage regulator
‘A’ indicates ammeter connections
‘V’ indicates voltmeter connections
7 To check the alternator voltage regulator,
refit the multi-plug cover, connect the
voltmeter across the battery, and connect the
ammeter between the positive battery lead
and the main circuit supply lead as shown
(see illustration). If no terminal is fitted,
unbolt the main circuit supply lead from the
battery positive lead and connect the
ammeter between them. With all accessories
switched off, start the engine and run it at
approximately 3000 rpm until the ammeter
reads less than 10 amps: the voltmeter should
read between 13.8 and 14.6 volts for a
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Pull the multi-plug(s) from the alternator
terminals (see illustration).
3 Loosen the adjustment link nut and the
mounting pivot bolts (see illustration).
4 Swivel the alternator in towards the engine,
and slip the drivebelt from the pulley.
5 Remove the adjustment link nut and
washers. Remove the pivot bolts, nuts and
washers. Withdraw the alternator from the
engine (see illustration).
12.2 Removing the multi-plug from the
alternator
13 Alternator brushes - removal,
inspection and refitting
Removal and inspection
1 Remove the alternator (Section 12).
Refitting
Lucas type
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
tightening the mounting bolts and the
adjustment nut, tension the drivebelt as
described in Chapter 1.
2 Disconnect and remove the interference
suppression capacitor from the end cover (if
fitted). Remove the securing screws and
withdraw the end cover (see illustrations).
13.2A Exploded view of an early Lucas
alternator
1 Alternator
2 Regulator
3 Rectifier
4 Bearing assembly
5 Rotor
6 Slip ring
7 Bearing assembly
8 Stator
9 Brush set
10 Surge protection
diode
11 Suppression
capacitor
12 End cover
12.3 Alternator mounting
1 Multi-plug
2 Pivot bolts
3 Adjusting link
12.5 Removing the alternator
5
5•10 Engine electrical system
13.2B Exploded view of a Lucas A115
alternator
1 Drive end bracket
2 Drive end bearing assembly
3 Rotor
4 Slip ring end bearing
5 Slip rings
6 Stator
7 Slip ring end bracket
8 Brushbox
9 Rectifier board
10 Surge protection diode
11 End cover
12 Through-bolt
13 Brushes
14 Regulator
15 Interference suppression
capacitor
3 Unscrew the surge protection diode
securing screw. Either move the diode
carefully out of the way, or disconnect it from
the rectifier board and remove it. Disconnect
the Lucar connector from the rectifier pack,
and remove the brush moulding and regulator
case retaining screws. Remove the brush
moulding and regulator (see illustrations).
4 Check that the brushes protrude from the
moulding by more than the specified
minimum amount. If not, remove the screws,
withdraw them from the moulding, and renew
them (see illustration).
Motorola type
5 Remove the two screws securing the
voltage regulator to the rear of the alternator.
Withdraw the regulator and release the two
wires (see illustration).
6 Remove the screw and withdraw the brush
holder, taking care not to damage the
brushes.
7 Check that the brushes protrude from the
moulding by more than the specified
minimum amount. If not, renew the brushes
by unsoldering them and fitting new ones.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the brushes move freely in their
holders. If necessary, clean them with petrol
and, if this is not sufficient, use a fine file.
Clean the slip rings with fine sandpaper and
wipe them with a petrol-soaked cloth.
13.2C Exploded view of a Lucas A127 alternator
1 Interference suppression capacitor
2 Regulator and brushbox assembly
3 Slip ring end bracket
4 Slip ring end bearing
5 Rectifier board
6 Phase terminal and washer assembly
7 Main terminal and washer assembly
8 Slip rings
9 Rotor
10 Stator
11 Through-bolts
12 Drive end bracket
13 Spacers
14 Drive end bearing
15 Pulley retaining nut and washer
Engine electrical system 5•11
13.3A Undo the regulator and brushbox
retaining screws
13.3B Withdraw the regulator and
brushbox . . .
13.3C . . . and disconnect the wiring
13.4 Checking the alternator brush length
14 Starter motor - testing,
removal and refitting
Testing
1 If the starter motor fails to operate, first
check the condition of the battery by
switching on the headlamps. If they glow
brightly, then gradually dim after a few
seconds, the battery is in an uncharged
condition.
2 If the battery is in good condition, check the
starter motor main terminal and the engine
earth cable for security. Check the terminal
connections on the starter solenoid located
on the battery carrier (inertia starter) or over
the starter (pre-engaged starter).
3 If the starter still fails to turn, use a
voltmeter or 12 volt test lamp and leads to
check that current is reaching the solenoid
terminal with the Lucar terminals. Connect
one lead to earth and the other to the terminal,
when a reading should be obtained or the test
lamp should glow.
4 With the ignition switched on and the
ignition key in position III, check that current is
reaching the remaining solenoid terminal and
the starter main terminal. If a voltmeter is
being used, there should not be any
significant voltage drop at the main terminal,
otherwise a bad connection or faulty solenoid
is indicated.
5 If current at the correct voltage is available
at the starter motor, yet it does not operate,
the starter motor is faulty.
13.5 Exploded view of a Motorola alternator
1
2
3
4
5
Pulley
Fan
Drive end housing
Plate
Slip ring
6 Bearing
7 Stator
8 Slip ring end housing
9 Diode bridge
10 Cover
11
12
13
14
Regulator
Brush holder
Rotor
Spacer
Starter solenoid (inertia starters)
Removal
6 Where an inertia starter motor is fitted, the
solenoid is located on the battery carrier, and
the circuit is earthed through the solenoid
mounting bolts. Should the solenoid be
defective the mounting bolts should be
removed and cleaned, and the threads coated
with a copper-based conductive grease
before refitting. If the fault is not cured by this
action, further investigation of the wiring will
be necessary.
9 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10 On the inertia type starter, disconnect the
supply cable from the starter main terminal
(see illustration).
11 On the pre-engaged type starter,
disconnect the supply cables from the
solenoid (see illustrations).
12 Unscrew the bottom then top retaining
bolts, and withdraw the starter motor from the
engine (see illustration). Remove the lead
bracket.
Starter relay
7 On all automatic transmission models, and
other models from 1986 onwards, a relay is
incorporated in the starter motor solenoid
circuit.
8 The relay is located on the battery carrier,
and is earthed via terminal 86 to the relay
mounting screw. In the event of a malfunction,
the mounting screw and battery carrier should
be cleaned and coated with conductive
grease to ensure good earthing. To establish
that there is an earthing problem, temporarily
connect a wire between the battery negative
terminal and terminal 86 on the relay, and
check if the fault persists.
14.10 Disconnecting the starter supply
lead
5
5•12 Engine electrical system
Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
14.11A Exploded view of a Lucas 9M90
starter motor
1 Housing retaining screws
2 Drive end housing
5 End cover
6 Solenoid
7 Jump ring
8 Thrust collar
9 Drive assembly
10 Engaging lever and bush
11 Armature
12 Thrustwasher
13 Field coil assembly
14 Field brush
15 Commutator end housing
16 Through-bolt
17 Bush
18 “Spire” washer
19 End cap
20 Drive end housing
21 Solenoid
22 Drive and engaging lever assembly
23 Eccentric pivot pin
A Alternative components fitted to automatic
transmission models
B Eccentric pivot pin mark and housing arrow
alignment
14.3B Exploded view of a Lucas M79 starter motor
1 Solenoid and plunger
2 Commutator and bracket components
3 Brushes
4 Brush springs
5 Pivot and packing piece
6 Armature
7 Jump ring and thrust collar
8 Drive assembly
9 Field coils and yoke
10 Drive end bracket bush
11 Commutator end bracket bush
12 Drive end bracket
13 Insulation plate
14 Commutator end bracket
15 Circlip and washers
16 Sealing cap and gasket
14.12 Removing the starter motor
9•1
Chapter 9
Braking system
Contents
Brake disc - examination, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Brake drum - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Disc caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Disc pads - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Footbrake pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Handbrake - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Handbrake cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Handbrake lever and switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Hydraulic brake lines and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting .16
Hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Inertia/pressure regulating valve (Van models) - removal and refitting . .15
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Pressure compensating valve (except Vans) - removal, overhaul and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Pressure reducing valve (1985-on models) - removal and refitting . .14
Rear brakes - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Rear brake adjuster - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Rear brake backplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Rear brake shoes - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Rear wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Vacuum servo unit - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Vacuum servo unit- removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Servo boost ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake fluid type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four wheel hydraulic, with discs on front and drums on rear. Dual
hydraulic feeds with rear brake pressure regulating valve. Servo
assistance on some models. Cable-operated handbrake on rear
wheels. Ventilated discs fitted to MG Turbo and all 1985-on models
(note that LH and RH are not interchangeable).
2.04 : 1
Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 3 or SAE J1703C
Discs
Working diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Disc minimum thickness:
Plain disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ventilated disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum allowable run-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum allowable thickness variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8.35 in (213 mm)
0.125 in (3 mm)
0.34 in (8.6 mm)
0.74 in (18.7 mm)
0.006 in (0.15 mm)
0.0005 in (0.013 mm)
9
Drums
Internal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7.0 in (177.9 in)
0.063 in (1.6 mm)
Torque wrench settings
lbf ft
19
38
40
38
9
19
5
8.5
Backplate to radius arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Compensating valve end plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Disc to flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master cylinder/brake servo mounting (1.3 litre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master cylinder mounting (1.0 litre) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master cylinder reservoir flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master cylinder mounting plate to bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Nm
26
53
54
52
12
26
7
12
9•2 Braking system
1.2a Pressure compensating valve
(early models)
3.3 Adjusting the rear brakes
on the rear face of one backplate clockwise
until the wheel is locked (see illustration).
4 Loosen the adjuster by two or three flats
until the wheel can be rotated freely.
5 Repeat the procedure on the remaining rear
wheel, then lower the car to the ground.
1 General description
1 The braking system is of four wheel
hydraulic, dual circuit type with discs at the
front and manually adjusted drum brakes at the
rear. The dual circuit system is of the H-l type,
where the primary circuit feeds both front and
rear brakes, and the secondary circuit feeds
the front brakes only. Each front brake caliper
incorporates four pistons and two independent
hydraulic feeds. A direct acting brake servo unit
is fitted to 1.3 and later 1.0 models.
2 On early vehicles, a pressure compensating
valve is installed in the rear hydraulic circuit to
prevent the rear wheels locking before the
front wheels during heavy applications of the
brakes. 1985-on Saloon models are fitted with
a pressure reducing valve in the rear brake
hydraulic circuit that is located on the master
cylinder. Vans built from 1984-on are fitted
with an inertia/pressure regulating valve in the
rear brake hydraulic circuit instead of the
compensating valve (see illustrations).
3 The handbrake operates on the rear wheels
only, and incorporates a switch that
illuminates a warning light on the instrument
panel when the handbrake is applied. Driver
warning lights are provided for the brake pad
wear and brake fluid low level.
2 Precautions
Caution. Brake pads and linings must be
renewed as a complete sets, i.e. BOTH left
and right brake pad sets must be renewed
at the same time. DO NOT renew the pads
or linings on just one roadwheel, as
unbalanced braking may occur, making
the car unstable. Note that the dust
created by wear of the pads or linings may
contain asbestos, which is a health hazard.
Do not use compressed air to blow out
brake dust and debris - use a brush. Avoid
inhaling any of the dust; wear an approved
filtration mask. Use only proprietary brake
cleaner fluid or methylated spirit to
cleanse the brake components. DO NOT
use petrol or any other petroleum-based
product.
1.2b Inertia/pressure regulating valve
fitted to 1984-on Vans
1 Vent plug
2 Clamp bolt
3 Locating peg
(where fitted)
Warning. Brake fluid is
poisonous; thoroughly wash off
spills from bare skin without
delay. Seek immediate medical
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets
into the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic
fluid are inflammable, and may ignite
when brought into contact with hot
components. When servicing any
hydraulic system, it is safest to assume
that the fluid IS inflammable, and to take
precautions against the risk of fire as
though it is petrol that is being handled.
Hydraulic fluid is an effective paint
stripper, and will also attack many
plastics. If spillage occurs onto painted
bodywork or fittings, it should be washed
off immediately, using copious quantities
of fresh water. It is also hygroscopic (it
can absorb moisture from the air); excess
moisture content lowers the fluid boiling
point to an unacceptable level, resulting in
a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
Old fluid may have suffered
contamination, and should never be reused. When topping-up or renewing the
fluid, always use the recommended grade,
and ensure that it comes from a freshly
opened sealed container.
4 Disc pads - inspection and
renewal
Note: The instrument panel warning lamps
should glow if either inner pad wears to the
minimum thickness.
Inspection
1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheels.
2 Using a screwdriver, move the anti-rattle
spring upwards to release it from the bottom
split pin, then withdraw it downwards from the
upper split pin (see illustration).
3 Measure the thickness of the lining material
on each disc pad, and if either one is at or
below the specified minimum, renew the
complete set of front disc pads (see
illustration).
4 To remove the pads, straighten the split
pins and extract them from the caliper.
5 Where fitted, disconnect the wear indicator
wiring from the harness and detach the rubber
clip (see illustration).
6 Press each pad slightly against its pistons,
then withdraw it from the caliper (see
illustration).
3 Rear brakes - adjustment
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Fully release the handbrake and make sure
that both rear wheels can be rotated freely.
3 Working beneath the car, turn the adjuster
4.2 Removing the disc pad anti-rattle
spring
Braking system 9•3
13 Insert the split pins through the caliper
and pads. Bend the ends to lock them.
14 Fit the anti-rattle spring under the bottom
split pin, then hook it under the top split pin.
15 Repeat the procedure on the remaining
wheel, then refit the wheels and lower the car
to the ground.
16 Depress the footbrake pedal several times
to set the pads, then check and, if necessary,
top-up the level of brake fluid in the master
cylinder reservoir.
4.3 Alternative types of front brake pads - arrows indicate pad thickness measuring
point
5 Rear brake shoes - inspection
and renewal
Inspection
4.5 Disc pad wear indicator wiring
connector
4.6 Removing a disc pad from the caliper
7 Brush the dust and dirt from the caliper,
pistons, disc and pads, do not inhale the dust
(see warning in Section 2). Scrape any scale
or rust from the disc and pad backing plate.
8 When the front brake pads have to be
renewed, it is a good idea to check the
thickness of the brake disc. The minimum
allowable thickness is given in the
Specifications, refer to Section 7 if necessary.
relevant bleed screw to release the fluid while
the piston is being depressed. Tighten it
immediately afterwards.
10 Smear special anti-squeal grease lightly
on the metal-to-metal contact surfaces of
each pad backing plate. The grease must not
be allowed to contact the caliper piston seals,
as may happen when the pistons are pushed
back to receive the new pads. Before pushing
the caliper pistons in wipe around the side of
the pistons with a clean dry cloth.
11 Insert the pads into the caliper with the
linings facing the disc. Note that only one pad
has a wear indicator; fit this on the inner side
of the disc.
12 Connect the wear indicator wiring and clip
where fitted.
Renewal
Note: Check the level of brake fluid in the
reservoir regularly to avoid spillage.
9 Using a piece of wood, press the pistons
back into the caliper. At the same time, check
the level of brake fluid in the reservoir. If this is
near the top of the reservoir, unscrew the
1 Chock the front wheel, then jack up the rear
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
rear wheels. The rear brake backplate on
1985-on models incorporates an inspection
hole through which the trailing shoe lining can
be checked for thickness. The use of a torch
will be helpful, and, after checking, always
make sure that the rubber grommet is
correctly fitted in the hole.
2 Release the handbrake. Remove the two
cross-head screws and withdraw the brake
drum over the wheel studs (see illustration).
If the drum is tight, release the adjuster one or
two turns, and if necessary tap the periphery
of the drum with a soft-faced mallet to release
it from the studs.
3 Brush the dust from the brake drum, brake
shoes, and backplate, do not inhale the dust,
see warning in Section 2. Scrape any scale or
rust from the drum.
4 Measure the brake shoe lining thickness. If it
is worn down to the specified minimum
amount, or if it is nearly worn down to the
rivets, renew all four rear brake shoes. If the
linings are in good condition, refit the drum and
adjust the brakes as described in Section 3.
5 To remove the brake shoes, first note the
location of the return springs, and to which
holes they are fitted (see illustrations).
9
5.2 Removing the brake drum
5.5a Rear brake shoe upper return spring location and adjuster
9•4 Braking system
5.8 Position (A) on right-hand rear brake
backplate for fitting self-adhesive wheel
balance weight to counteract rear brake
5.5b Exploded view of the rear brakes - left-hand side shown
1
2
3
4
Brake shoes
Backplate
Rubber boot
Adjuster
5
6
7
8
Lever assembly
Gasket
Circlip
Wheel cylinder
6 Release each shoe from the adjuster pegs
using a screwdriver or adjustable spanner.
Similarly release the shoes from the wheel
cylinder pistons.
7 Disengage the handbrake levers and
withdraw the shoes. Detach both return
springs.
9 Repair kit
10 Return springs
11 Brake drum
8 Clean the brake backplate. If there are any
signs of loss of grease from the rear hub
bearings, the oil seal should be renewed with
reference to Chapter 10. If hydraulic fluid is
leaking from the wheel cylinder, it must be
repaired or renewed as described in Section 8.
Do not touch the brake pedal or handbrake
lever while the shoes are removed. Position an
elastic band over the wheel cylinder pistons to
retain them. To overcome rear brake squeal a
spring strap (available from Rover dealers) can
(or may already), be fitted under the brake
backplate/anti-roll bar securing bolt so that the
spring strap bears against the backplate (see
illustration).
Renewal
9 Lay the new shoes on a flat surface in their
approximate fitted attitude. The leading edges
must face in the opposite direction to forward
movement of the drum (see illustration).
10 Hook the bottom return spring to the
shoes with the middle section to the bottom;
this will ensure that it does not foul the hub
when fitted.
5.9 Sectional view of the rear brakes right-hand side shown
1 Adjuster
5 Bottom return
2 Brake shoes
spring
3 Wheel cylinder
6 Top return spring
4 Handbrake lever
assembly
Arrows indicate brake shoe leading edges and
forward rotation of drum
11 Fit the shoes and spring to the handbrake
levers. Remove the elastic band and locate the
shoe webs in the wheel cylinder piston slots.
12 Hook the top return spring to the shoes
from the rear, then lever the shoe webs into
the adjuster peg slots.
13 Fully unscrew the adjuster. Tap the shoes
so that they are located concentric to the hub.
14 Fit the drum and tighten the two screws.
15 Refit the roadwheel and adjust the rear
brakes and handbrake as described in
Sections 3 and 18.
16 Lower the car to the ground.
6 Disc caliper - removal, overhaul
and refitting
Removal
1 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Remove the roadwheel.
2 Remove the disc pads (Section 4).
3 Unscrew the two bolts securing the caliper
and disc shield to the swivel hub. Remove the
spring washers.
4 Withdraw the caliper and support it on a
stand without straining the hydraulic hoses.
Overhaul
5 Clean the caliper thoroughly with
methylated spirit and allow to dry.
6 Make a piece of hardwood of the shape as
shown (see illustration), and insert it into the
caliper. Have an assistant slowly depress the
footbrake pedal until the free piston is almost
out of its bore. Remove the hardwood block
and pull out the piston; soak up the released
brake fluid with a piece of cloth.
7 Using a non-metallic instrument such as a
plastic needle, prise the retainer and wiper
seal from the mouth of the bore. Similarly
remove the fluid seal from the groove inside
the bore.
8 Clean the piston, bore and grooves with a
lint-free cloth, then inspect their surfaces for
damage, wear and corrosion. If the piston
surface alone is unserviceable, it may be
possible to obtain a new piston. However, it is
Braking system 9•5
7.2a Brake disc wear measurement
points
6.6 Exploded view of front brake caliper
1
2
3
4
Anti-rattle spring
Pads
Retainer
Wiper seal
5 Fluid seal
6 Piston
7 Wooden block for
removing pistons
more common for both sealing surfaces to be
affected, in which case the complete caliper
must be renewed. If the components are in
good condition, obtain a repair kit of new seals.
Refitting
9 Dip the new fluid seal in clean brake fluid
and manipulate it into the bore groove using
the fingers only. Note that the groove is
designed to hold the inner edge of the seal
slightly raised.
10 Fit the wiper seal to the retainer and press
them both into the mouth of the bore.
11 Loosen the bleed screw for the piston
removed (one screw is provided for both
upper pistons). Then smear the piston with
clean brake fluid and insert it into the bore
leaving approximately 0.15 in (4 mm)
projecting. Tighten the bleed screw and topup the reservoir as necessary.
12 Repeat the procedure given in paragraphs 6 to 11 for the remaining pistons.
13 If the caliper is to be renewed, identify
each brake fluid hose for position, then
unscrew the unions. Note that two types of
caliper are fitted, and it is important to fit the
correct type: the information (type A or type B)
is to be found on the bonnet lock
crossmember. Also note that bleed nipples for
both types are not interchangeable; the nipple
taper must contact the seat before the
hexagon contacts the body. Do not separate
the caliper halves.
14 If necessary, the disc shield can be
removed at this stage.
15 Reconnect the hoses to the caliper and
tighten the unions.
16 Refit the caliper and disc shield to the
swivel hub, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
17 Refit the disc pads (Section 4).
18 Refit the roadwheel and lower the car to
the ground.
A
B
C
D
Disc-to-abutment distance (see text)
Disc thickness
Swivel hub mounting lug
Caliper
19 Bleed the complete brake hydraulic
circuits as described in Section 17.
7 Brake disc - examination,
removal and refitting
Warning: Brake discs should
always be renewed in pairs in
order to maintain even braking.
Examination
1 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Apply the handbrake and remove
the roadwheel.
2 Rotate the disc and examine it for deep
scoring or grooving. Light scoring is normal,
but, if excessive, the disc should be removed
and either renewed or ground by a suitably
qualified engineering works. A further check
should be made by measuring the gap
between the disc face and the caliper
abutment on each side of the disc (see
illustration). If this dimension exceeds 0.110
in (2.8 mm) on either side, the disc must be
renewed. Brake discs should always be
renewed in pairs to maintain even braking.
When fitting discs to MG Turbo and 1985-on
models, note that the discs are “handed”, i.e.
left-hand and right-hand discs are different.
The difference is in the angle of the cooling
vanes, which are designed to function
efficiently in one direction of rotation only. The
manufacturers have provided an external
means of distinguishing the discs. The edge
facing the drive flange has a concave finish on
the left-hand disc, where the right-hand disc is
finished with a smooth taper (see illustration).
Removal
3 To remove the brake disc, first refit the
roadwheel and lower the car to the ground.
Remove the split pin, and loosen the
driveshaft nut while an assistant depresses
the footbrake pedal.
4 Jack up the front of the car again and
support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”). Remove the roadwheel.
5 Remove the disc caliper as described in
Section 6, leaving the hydraulic hoses
connected and supporting the caliper on a
stand.
6 Remove the driveshaft nut and the split
collar from the end of the driveshaft.
7 Pull the drive flange and disc assembly
from the driveshaft, using a puller if
necessary.
8 Mark the drive flange and disc in relation to
each other, then unscrew the special bolts
and separate the two components.
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the mating faces of the disc and
flange are clean, and tighten the bolts in
diagonal sequence to the specified torque.
Grease the hub outer oil seal before inserting
the drive flange. Refer to Chapter 8 for details
of driveshaft nut tightening.
9
7.2b Ventilated disc identification
A Left-hand (concave edge)
B Right-hand (smooth edge)
9•6 Braking system
8 Rear wheel cylinder - removal,
overhaul and refitting
11 Rear brake backplate removal and refitting
Removal
Removal
1 Remove the rear brake shoes (Section 5).
2 Remove the cap from the brake fluid
reservoir. Place a sheet of thin polythene over
the warning switch assembly, then tighten the
cap. This will help prevent the loss of brake
fluid in the subsequent procedure.
3 Working under the car, unscrew the union
nut and remove the brake pipe from the wheel
cylinder.
4 Unscrew and remove the bleed screw.
5 Using a screwdriver, prise out the retaining
circlip.
6 Withdraw the wheel cylinder and gasket
from the backplate (see illustration).
1 Remove the rear brake shoes (Section 5).
2 Remove the rear wheel cylinder and
adjuster as described in Sections 8 and 9.
3 Remove the hub assembly as described in
Chapter 10.
4 Remove the clevis pin and disconnect the
handbrake cable from the operating lever.
Withdraw the lever assembly and rubber boot
from the backplate.
5 Unscrew and remove the three nuts and
washers, and withdraw the backplate from the
radius arm.
6 If necessary, remove the bolts and cable
bracket from the radius arm, noting the
location of the spacers.
8.6 Rear brake wheel cylinder
9 Rear brake adjuster - removal
and refitting
Overhaul
Removal
7 Disconnect the dust covers from the body,
and withdraw the pistons. Identify the pistons
side for side (see illustration).
8 Remove the dust covers and seals from the
pistons.
9 Clean all the components in methylated
spirit and allow to dry. Examine the surfaces
of the pistons and cylinder bores for wear,
scoring and corrosion. If evident, renew the
complete wheel cylinder. If they are in good
condition, discard the seals, retaining circlip
and gasket, and obtain a repair kit.
10 Dip the inner seals in clean brake fluid,
and fit them to the piston inner grooves, using
the fingers only to manipulate them. Make
sure that the larger diameter end faces the
inner end of the piston.
11 Carefully insert the pistons half way into
the cylinders.
12 Coat the sealing surfaces of the dust
covers with rubber lubricant, then fit them into
the groove on the pistons and wheel cylinder
body.
1 Remove the rear brake shoes (Section 5).
2 Remove the rubber boot from the
backplate.
3 Unscrew the two nuts and remove the
spring washers.
4 Withdraw the adjuster from the backplate.
5 Remove the pegs and identify them side for
side. Check that the adjuster screw moves
freely and lubricate the threads with grease.
Grease the pegs and reinsert them in the
adjuster.
Refitting
1 Whenever the brake drums are removed,
they should be checked for wear and
damage. Light scoring of the friction surface is
normal, but if excessive, it is recommended
that the drums are renewed as a pair.
2 To prevent water entering the rear brake
drums, later models are fitted with a paper
gasket between the brake drum and the
flange.
3 If problems due to water entry are
encountered on earlier models, obtain and fit
the gaskets between the drums and their
flanges. Clean off any rust on the friction
surfaces and gasket mating surfaces, using
fine grade abrasive paper.
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use
the new gasket and circlip. Adjust the brakes
as described in Section 3, and bleed the
hydraulic system as described in Section 17.
Do not forget to remove the polythene sheet
from the brake fluid reservoir.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the brakes as described in Section 3. Note
that the adjuster can only be fitted one way
round.
10 Brake drum - inspection and
renovation
Inspection
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the mating surfaces of the flange
and radius arm are clean. Adjust the rear
brakes and handbrake (Sections 3 and 18).
12 Master cylinder - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 If a servo unit is fitted, depress the
footbrake pedal several times to dissipate the
vacuum.
2 Working in front of the car, connect bleed
tubes to the primary and secondary bleed
nipples on the passenger-side brake caliper.
The nipples are located on one side of the
caliper.
3 Loosen the bleed nipples half a turn, and
place the ends of the tubes in a jar.
4 Operate the footbrake pedal until the fluid
reservoir is empty, then tighten the bleed
screws and remove the tubes.
5 Pull the wiring connectors from the
reservoir filler cap terminals (see illustration).
6 Unscrew the primary and secondary union
nuts, and remove the hydraulic pipes from the
master cylinder. Plug the ends of the pipes,
Renovation
8.7 Exploded view of the rear wheel
cylinder
4 After a high mileage, the friction surface
may become oval. Where this has occurred, it
may be possible to grind the surface true, but
this should only be carried out by a qualified
engineering works. It is preferable to renew
the drums as a pair.
12.5 Brake master cylinder location (left)
showing fluid level warning switch wires clutch master cylinder on right
Braking system 9•7
12.22a Exploded view of the master cylinder earlier non-servo type shown
1 Reservoir
2 Seals
3 Secondary piston stop pin
4 Secondary piston and spring
5 Primary piston and spring
6 Secondary piston seal and washer
7 Secondary piston seal
8 Primary piston seals and washer
9 Circlip
10 Rubber boot
and place cloth rags around the bottom of the
master cylinder to protect the surrounding
paintwork.
7 Where a servo unit is fitted, unscrew the
retaining nuts and washers, and withdraw the
master cylinder and gasket from the servo unit.
8 Where the master cylinder is mounted
directly on the bulkhead plate, remove the
clevis pin securing the pushrod to the brake
pedal inside the car. Unbolt the master cylinder
and remove it together with the gasket.
9 Do not spill any brake fluid on the paintwork
otherwise repainting may be necessary. If
accidentally spilt, swill off immediately with
copious amounts of cold water.
10 Drain and discard the fluid remaining in
the reservoir.
Overhaul
11 Clean the exterior of the master cylinder
with methylated spirit, then mount it
horizontally in a soft-jawed vice with the
reservoir uppermost.
12 Unbolt the reservoir from the body
(non-servo models) or remove the clips and
pull out the pins (servo models).
13 Prise the sealing washers from the body
with a screwdriver.
14 Push the pushrod/piston fully into the
cylinder, and use long-nosed pliers to remove
the secondary piston stop pin from the
secondary inlet. Release the pushrod.
15 On the non-servo type prise the rubber
boot from the end of the master cylinder.
16 On both types depress the piston and
extract the circlip from the mount of the
master cylinder using circlip pliers.
17 Remove the pushrod (where fitted),
primary piston and primary spring. Place them
on the bench in order of removal.
18 Remove the cylinder from the vice and tap
it on a block of wood to remove the
secondary piston and spring.
19 Note the position of each item, then
remove the seals, washers and spring
retainers from the pistons, keeping them in
their correct order of removal.
20 Clean all the components in methylated
spirit and examine them for wear and
damage. In particular check the surfaces of
the pistons and cylinder bore for scoring and
corrosion. If evident, renew the complete
master cylinder, but if in good condition,
discard the seals and washers and obtain a
repair kit.
21 Check that the inlet and outlet ports are
free and unobstructed. Dip the pistons and
seals in clean brake fluid.
22 Fit the seals and washers to the pistons
with the lips facing the directions shown (see
illustrations), use the fingers only to
manipulate them into position.
23 Fit the spring retainers to the ends of the
pistons, followed by the springs.
24 Insert the secondary piston and spring
into the bore, taking care not to damage the
seal lips. Similarly insert the primary piston
and spring.
9
9•8 Braking system
12.22b Exploded view of the master
cylinder fitted to 1985-on models
1 Reservoir
2 Sealing washers
3 Baffle plates
4 Secondary piston stop pin
5 Roll pin
6 Secondary piston and spring
7 Primary piston and spring
8 Secondary piston seal and washer
9 Secondary piston seal
10 Retainer
11 Circlip
12 Spring seat
13 Primary piston seal and washer
14 Primary piston vacuum seals and
washers
15 Spacer
16 Circlip
17 O-ring seal
18 Pressure reducing valve
25 Push the primary piston into the bore,
together with the pushrod (where fitted), and
fit the retaining circlip to the groove in the
mouth of the bore. Refit the rubber boot on
the non-servo type.
26 Push the pushrod/piston fully into the
cylinder, and insert the secondary piston stop
pin.
27 Locate the seals on the cylinder inlets and
refit the reservoir according to type. Only
tighten the screws (where fitted) to the
specified torque.
Refitting
28 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new mounting gasket, and bleed the hydraulic
system as described in Section 17.
13 Pressure compensating valve
(except Vans) - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 The pressure compensating valve is
located to the left of the fuel tank on the
underbody.
2 To remove the valve, jack up the rear of the
car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Chock the
front wheels, and remove the left-hand rear
wheel.
3 Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap
and place a sheet of thin polythene over the
warning switch assembly, then tighten the
cap. This will help prevent the loss of brake
fluid in the subsequent procedure.
4 Unscrew the union nut securing the
left-hand rear rigid brake pipe to the flexible
hose at the bracket on top of the radius arm.
5 Unscrew the nut, remove the washer, and
detach the flexible hose from the bracket.
6 Unscrew the flexible hose from the
compensating valve.
7 Unscrew the two union nuts securing the
rigid brake pipes to the compensating valve.
8 Remove the mounting bolt and withdraw
the compensating valve.
damage. If excessive, renew the complete
compensating valve, but if the components
are in good condition, discard the old seals
and obtain a repair kit.
13 Dip the seals and piston in clean brake
fluid.
Refitting
14 Reassemble the valve in the reverse order
to dismantling. Tighten the end plug to the
specified torque. Fit the valve to the bracket
and insert the mounting bolt and flexible hose,
then tighten them both (see illustration).
Overhaul
9 Clean the exterior of the valve with
methylated spirit.
10 Mount the valve in a soft-jawed vice, and
unscrew the end plug. Remove the washer.
11 Remove the small diameter spring, piston,
bearing, large diameter spring and seals,
keeping them in the order of removal.
12 Clean all the components with methylated
spirit and examine them for wear and
13.14 Cutaway view of the pressure
compensating valve
Braking system 9•9
15 The remaining refitting procedure is a
reversal of removal, but when completed
bleed the brakes as described in Section 17.
Do not forget to remove the polythene sheet
from the brake fluid reservoir.
14 Pressure reducing valve
(1985-on models) - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 To remove the valve, place a container and
rag beneath the master cylinder.
2 Unscrew the two secondary pipe unions
then pull out and plug the pipes.
3 Unscrew the pressure reducing valve from
the master cylinder and remove the washer.
16.1 Unified and Metric fittings used in the
braking system
A - Metric pipe nuts, unions, bleed screws
and hose ends are coloured black or gold.
Most are also identified by the letter M
B - The correct Unified or Metric pipe flares
must be used
C - The end of a Metric hose is coloured
black or gold
D - Metric fittings are not counterbored.
Some Unified fittings may also not be
counterbored. If the thread type is not
known on a fitting, screw the item in by
finger pressure only. If the fit is slack, or
the item will not screw fully in, the threads
may be of different types
E - A Metric hose seals against the bottom of
the port, with a gap between the cylinder
or caliper and the hose hexagon
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but bleed
the hydraulic system on completion.
15 Inertia/pressure regulating
valve (Van models) - removal
and refitting
2 At the intervals given in Chapter 1, clean the
rigid brake lines and flexible hoses and check
them for damage, leakage, chafing and
cracks. If the rigid pipes are corroded
excessively, they must be renewed. Check
the retaining clips for security, and clean away
any accumulations of dirt and debris.
Removal
Removal
1 To remove the valve, chock the front
wheels, then jack up the rear of the van and
support on axle stands (see “Jacking and
vehicle support”).
2 Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap
and place a sheet of thin polythene over the
warning switch assembly, then tighten the
cap. This will prevent unnecessary loss of
brake fluid in the subsequent procedure.
3 Unscrew the union nuts from the valve then
remove and plug the hydraulic pipes.
4 Unscrew the clamp bolt, prise open the
clamp, and withdraw the valve.
3 To remove a rigid brake line, unscrew the
union nuts at each end, and where necessary
remove the line from the clips.
4 To remove a flexible brake hose, unscrew
the union nut securing the rigid brake line to
the end of the flexible hose. Remove the nut
and washer, and withdraw the hose from the
bracket. Unscrew the remaining end from the
component or rigid pipe according to
position.
Refitting
5 Refit the valve with the vent plug uppermost
and, where fitted, make sure that the valve is
located on the special peg. Tighten the clamp
bolt and union nuts.
6 During the bleeding of the hydraulic circuit,
loosen the vent plug two or three times to
release any trapped air. Finally lower the van
to the ground.
16 Hydraulic brake lines and
hoses - inspection, removal
and refitting
Inspection
1 It is important to note that two types of
fittings are in use as shown (see illustration).
The metric fittings are coloured gold or black
and generally have the letter “M” stamped on
them. If there is any doubt about the
compatibility of fittings, check that they can be
fully screwed together using the fingers only.
Refitting
5 Refitting of either of the above is a reversal
of removal.
6 Bleed the complete hydraulic system as
described in Section 17 after fitting a rigid
brake line or flexible brake hose.
17 Hydraulic system - bleeding
Note: Read the warning in Section 2 before
proceeding.
1 The correct functioning of the brake
hydraulic system is only possible after the
removal of all air from the components and
circuit; this is achieved by bleeding the
system. Note that only clean unused brake
fluid, which has remained unshaken for at
least 24 hours, must be used.
2 If there is any possibility of incorrect fluid
being used in the system, the brake lines and
components must be completely flushed with
uncontaminated fluid and new seals fitted to
the components.
3 Never re-use brake fluid that has been bled
from the system.
4 During the procedure, do not allow the level
of brake fluid to drop more than half way
down the reservoir.
5 Before starting work check that all pipes
and hoses are secure, unions tight, and bleed
screws closed. Take great care not to allow
hydraulic fluid to come into contact with the
car paintwork, otherwise the finish will be
seriously damaged. Wash off any spilled fluid
immediately with cold water.
6 There are a number of one-man,
do-it-yourself, brake bleeding kits currently
available from motor accessory shops. It is
recommended that one of these kits is used
wherever possible, as they greatly simplify the
bleeding operation, and reduce the risk of
expelled air and fluid being drawn back into
the system. If one of these kits is not
available, it will be necessary to obtain, a
clean jar and two lengths of clear plastic
tubing that is a tight fit over the bleed screw.
Also engage the help of an assistant.
9
9•10 Braking system
17.12a Brake bleeding sequence for right-hand drive cars
A - type A brakes
B - type B brakes
7 If hydraulic fluid has been lost from the
master cylinder due to a leak in the system,
ensure that the cause is traced and rectified
before continuing further.
8 If the hydraulic system has only been
partially disconnected and precautions were
taken to prevent further loss of fluid, it should
only be necessary to bleed that part of the
system (i.e. primary or secondary circuit).
However, note that if the front part of the
primary circuit has been disconnected, the
rear part must also be bled in the correct
order.
9 To bleed the system, first clean the area
around the right-hand rear wheel cylinder
bleed screw and fit the bleed tube. If
necessary, top-up the master cylinder
reservoir with brake fluid.
10 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is being
used, open the bleed screw half a turn and
position the unit so that it can be viewed from
A - type A brakes
the car. Depress the brake pedal to the floor
and slowly release it; the one-way valve in the
kit will prevent expelled air from returning to
the system. Repeat the procedure then topup the brake fluid level. Continue bleeding
until clean hydraulic fluid, free from air
bubbles, can be seen coming through the
tube. Now tighten the bleed screw and
remove the tube.
11 If a one-man brake bleeding kit is not
available, immerse the free end of the bleed
tube in the jar and pour in sufficient brake fluid
to keep the end of the tube submerged. Open
the bleed screw half a turn and have your
assistant depress the brake pedal to the floor
and then slowly release it. Tighten the bleed
screw at the end of the down stroke to
prevent the expelled air and fluid from being
drawn back into the system. Repeat the
procedure then top-up the brake fluid level.
Continue bleeding until clean hydraulic fluid,
17.12c Brake bleeding sequence for 1985-on models
A Left-hand drive models
17.12b Brake bleeding sequence for left-hand drive cars
B Right-hand drive models
B - type B brakes
free from air bubbles, can be seen coming
through the tube. Now tighten the bleed
screw and remove the tube.
12 Repeat the procedure described in
paragraphs 9 to 11 on the left-hand rear wheel
cylinder, then follow the order shown (see
illustrations), dependent on brake system
type - see label on bonnet lock crossmember.
Note that the lower pair of pistons in the front
brake calipers must be bled simultaneously,
and therefore two bleed tubes are necessary.
This also applies to one-man brake bleeding
kits (see illustration), therefore two bleed
tubes must be obtained.
13 When completed, recheck the fluid level in
the reservoir, top-up if necessary, and refit the
cap. Depress the brake pedal several times; it
should feel firm and free from “sponginess”
that would indicate air still present in the
system.
17.12d Typical brakes bleeding kit connected to front brake
caliper - note that two tubes are required for lower circuit
Braking system 9•11
18 Handbrake - adjustment
1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Apply the handbrake four times to settle the
compensator and cable positions.
3 Adjust the rear brakes (Section 3).
4 Apply the handbrake six notches on an old
cable, or four notches on a new cable, then
check that both rear wheels are locked.
5 To adjust the handbrake, loosen the cable
locknut using a spanner through the access
slot in the carpet behind the handbrake. Turn
the adjusting nut until the correct tension is
achieved, then tighten the locknut.
6 Release the handbrake and check that the
wheels rotate freely, then lower the car to the
ground.
19 Handbrake cable - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove one front seat with reference to
Chapter 11.
2 Unbolt the central seat belt arms from the
underbody tunnel.
3 Lift the rear carpet, move the cable guide
aside and remove the seal.
4 Remove the clevis pin and disconnect the
cable from the handbrake lever (see
illustration).
19.4 Handbrake cable components
5 Jack up the rear of the car and support it on
axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Chock the front wheels.
6 Working beneath the car, remove the cable
from the underbody bracket and fuel tank,
and pull the cable through the floor.
7 Remove the clevis pins and disconnect the
cables from the rear brake levers (see
illustration).
8 Release the cables from the radius arm
brackets, abutment brackets and subframe.
9 Lift the compensator link from its guide,
and withdraw the cable assembly (see
illustration).
Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
adjust the handbrake (Section 18).
20 Handbrake lever and switch removal and refitting
Removal
19.7 Handbrake cable backplate location
1 Remove one front seat with reference to
Chapter 11.
2 Unbolt the central seat belt arms from the
underbody tunnel.
3 Lift the rear carpet. Remove the clevis pin
and disconnect the cable from the handbrake
lever.
4 Pull off the wires from the switch terminals,
remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the switch (see illustration).
5 Unbolt the handbrake lever from the floor
bracket.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the handbrake as described in Section 18.
21 Footbrake pedal - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Working inside the car, remove the clevis
pin and disconnect the pushrod from the
pedal.
3 Pull the wires from the stoplight switch,
then unscrew the switch from the bracket
(see illustration).
4 Unbolt the end pedal bracket from the
bulkhead and unhook the return spring.
5 Unscrew the pivot nut, then withdraw the
bracket, spring and pedal.
9
19.9 Handbrake cable compensator link
location (arrowed)
20.4 Handbrake lever switch location
(arrowed)
21.3 Stoplight switch location (arrowed)
9•12 Braking system
21.6 Footbrake pedal components
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal (see
illustration).
22 Vacuum servo unit - description
The vacuum servo unit provides assistance
to the driver when the brake pedal is
depressed.
The unit operates by vacuum from the inlet
manifold and comprises a booster diaphragm
and non-return valve.
With the brake pedal released, vacuum is
channelled to both sides of the diaphragm,
but when the pedal is depressed, one side is
opened to the atmosphere. The resultant
23.2 Removing the vacuum hose from the servo
unequal pressures are harnessed to assist in
depressing the master cylinder pistons.
Under normal operating conditions the
vacuum servo unit is very reliable, and when a
fault does occur the first action should be
renewal of the non-return valve. If this does
not help, the servo should be renewed. If
there is a failure, the hydraulic system is in no
way affected, except that higher pedal
pressure will be necessary.
23 Vacuum servo unit - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the master cylinder as described in
Section 12.
2 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
non-return valve (see illustration).
3 Working inside the car, remove the clevis
pin and disconnect the pushrod from the
brake pedal.
4 Unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the
servo unit from the engine compartment.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to Section 12.
10•1
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Contents
Anti-roll bar - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Front hub assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Front Hydragas unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Front shock absorber - removal overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Front suspension lower arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . .7
Front suspension upper arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . .6
Front suspension upper or lower balljoint - removal and refitting . . . .8
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Hydragas units - testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Rear anti-roll bar (MG Turbo) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Rear hub assembly - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear Hydragas unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Rear suspension radius arm - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . .11
Roadwheels and tyres - general . . . . . . . . . . . . .See “Weekly Checks”
Routine maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Steering column - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Steering column lock/ignition switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . .16
Steering rack and pinion - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . .20
Steering rack gaiter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Tie-rod end balljoint - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Wheel alignment - checking and adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
Front suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Independent, unequal length upper and lower arms, anti-roll bar,
Hydragas spring units, telescopic shock absorbers
Rear suspension
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Independent, trailing arms, operating interconnected Hydragas spring
units via arms and pushrods
Suspension ride heights
Front - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.87 ± 0.59 in (327 ± 15 mm)
Rear:
Turbo - up to 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.44 ± 0.59 in (316 ± 15 mm)
Van up to 1984, Turbo - 1985 on, GTa, Advantage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.03 ± 0.59 in (331 ± 15 mm)
Van - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.62 ± 0.59 in (346 ± 15 mm)
All other models - up to 1984 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.64 ± 0.59 in (321 ± 15 mm)
All other models - 1985 on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.23 ± 0.59 in (336 ± 15 mm)
Maximum permissible side-to-side difference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.39 in (10 mm)
Note: Ride heights measured VERTICALLY (seen from front and side of vehicle) from wheel arch lip to roadwheel hub centre, engine cold and car
unladen but with full fuel tank and all lubricants and fluids. If fuel tank is only half full, increase specified heights by adding 1 mm to front height and
3 mm to rear to compensate for reduced vehicle weight. Specified heights correct at nominal ambient temperature of 17ºC - above this
temperature add 0.6 mm for every 1ºC temperature difference, below it subtract 0.6 mm for every 1ºC temperature difference.
10
10•2 Suspension and steering
Hydragas unit nitrogen nominal pressures
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
315 lbf/in2 ± 3% (2172 kN/m2 ± 3%)
230 lbf/in2 ± 3% (1586 kN/m2 ± 3%)
Suspension grease points
Grease type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Multi-purpose lithium based grease
Steering
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Number of turns lock-to-lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack pinion bearing preload . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pinion bearing shim gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pinion bearing standard shim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pinion bearing shims available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yoke-to-cover plate clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yoke-to-cover plate shims available . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack ball-pin centre dimension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack-and-pinion, flexible coupling
3.3
0.001 to 0.004 in (0.025 to 0.102 mm)
0.011 to 0.013 in (0.28 to 0.33 mm)
0.092 in (2.337 mm)
0.005 in, 0.0075 in, 0.010 in (0.127 mm, 0.1905 mm, 0.254 mm)
0.002 to 0.005 in (0.05 to 0.12 mm)
0.0024 in (0.061 mm)
44.2 to 44.3 in (112.2 to 112.5 mm)
Front wheel alignment (models up to 1985) - at correct ride heights
Toe-out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inner wheel angle (with outer wheel at 20°) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Camber angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caster angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0 to 0.125 in (0 to 3 mm)
23.75° ± 1.5°
0° ± 0030’
2° 6’ positive ± 1°
Front wheel alignment (all models 1986-on)
Front wheel toe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inner wheel angle (except those below) with outer wheel at 20° . . . . . .
Inner wheel angle (MG Turbo, GTa, Advantage) with outer
wheel at 29° 48’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caster angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
King pin inclination . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Parallel to 0° 25’ toe-out
20° 40’
31° 50
2° 6’ positive 2° 0’
10° 38’
Rear wheel alignment - at correct ride heights
Toe-in/out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Camber angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
0°30 toe-in to 0°30’ toe-out
1° negative ± 30’
Rear suspension (MG Turbo, GTa, Advantage)
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear wheel alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
As other models, plus anti-roll bar
Parallel ± 0° 15’
Wheels
Size and type:
Pre-1984 (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984-on (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Metro 1986-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo 1986-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo, GTa, Advantage and Metro Sport 1989-on . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG 1300 (pre-1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG 1300 (1984) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG 1300 (1985-on) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.0 and 1.3 Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4.50B x 12 pressed steel
315 x 105 mm pressed steel
13 x 120
13 x 5 1⁄2 in
13 x 5 1⁄2 in
5.50J x 13 alloy
5J x 12 pressed steel
12 in x 5J alloy
315 x 120 mm alloy
12 in x 4.5B pressed steel
Tyres
Size:
1982 to 1983 models:
1.0 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 models, except MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1984 models:
1.0 Saloon models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.0 and 1.3 Vans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1.3 Moritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG 1300 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other 1.3 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
135 SR x 12 radial
165/70R x 12 radial
165/60 HR x 13 radial
150/65 R315 radial
155/70 SR12 radial
150/65 R315 radial
155/70 SR 12 radial
165/65 HR 13 radial
160/65 R315 radial
Suspension and steering 10•3
Size (continued):
1985-on models:
MG Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1989-on:
MG Turbo, GTa, Advantage and Metro Sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Note: Refer to “Weekly checks” (on page 0•16) for tyre pressures
165/60 HR 13 radial
160/65 R315 radial
185 x 55 radial
Torque wrench settings
lbf ft
Nm
Front suspension
Anti-roll bar to subframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anti-roll bar end nut (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hub balljoint socket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hub balljoint nut to arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lower arm pivot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shock absorber upper nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shock absorber lower nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Upper arm pivot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hydragas unit charging valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anti-roll bar U-bolt clamp nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
30 to 80
75
37
75
27.5
35
55
12
16
26
41 to 111
103
51
103
38
48
76
17
22
Rear suspension
Hub nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Radius arm pivot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
60
53
83
73
Steering
Column clamp to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Column clamp to column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Coupling cover to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Flexible coupling to pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Flexible coupling to column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Column bracket to shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Coupling to pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Column to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Column lock shear bolt (minimum) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering arm to hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rack U-bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tie-rod end . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tie-rod to rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Upper steering column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
8.5
6.5
11
19
19
19
19
14
38
19
35
22
35
8.5
26
12
9
15
26
26
26
26
19
45
26
48
30
48
12
42
36
42
58
50
58
Wheels
Alloy wheel nuts:
1985-on models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steel wheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 General description
1 The front suspension is of independent,
upper and lower arm type incorporating
separate Hydragas spring units on each side,
telescopic shock absorbers and an anti-roll
bar. From 1985, with exception of MG Turbo
models, front shock absorbers are no longer
fitted (see illustration).
2 The rear suspension is of independent,
trailing arm type incorporating interconnected
Hydragas spring units, which are operated via
pushrods from the trailing arms. The rear
Hydragas units are each preloaded with a coil
spring (see illustration).
3 The Hydragas units comprise a chamber of
pressurised nitrogen gas contained by a
rubber diaphragm, and a further chamber of
pressurised fluid consisting of water, alcohol
and additives. Movement of the suspension
causes the pushrod to compress the fluid,
which causes the intermediate diaphragm to
deflect into the nitrogen chamber. The unit
acts as a variable rate gas spring.
4 Although the front and rear Hydragas units
function in an identical manner, the rear units
incorporate an internal damper flap valve,
whereas the front units are dampened by
separate telescopic shock absorbers. The
front units are not interconnected but the rear
units are via a pipe containing a flow
restrictor. The front and rear ride heights are
set by pressurising the fluid in the Hydragas
units.
5 Due to the high pressures involved and the
special equipment required, the Hydragas
units must only be depressurised, evacuated
and pressurised by a Rover dealer. In the
event of loss of pressure, the car may be
driven to the place of repair over metalled
roads at up to 20 mph (32 kph).
6 The steering is of rack-and-pinion type
mounted on the rear of the front subframe.
The steering column is attached to the rack
pinion by a flexible coupling. Note that a
minor steering column modification was
carried out on all cars early in 1981; if in doubt
as to whether this modification has been
carried out on your vehicle, consult your
dealer. 1985 and 1986-on models are fitted
with modified steering columns and rack and
pinions. All service procedures should remain
basically unchanged.
10
10•4 Suspension and steering
Suspension and steering 10•5
§
1.1 Exploded view of the front
suspension
1
2
3
4
5
6
Shock absorber
Rubber bushes
Plate
Thrustwasher
Sealing ring
Needle roller
bearing
7 Upper suspension
arm
8 Boot
9 Ball-pin (and spacer
where fitted)
10 Socket
11 Bump rubber
12 Pivot shaft
13 Spacer
14 Rebound rubber
15 Water shield
16 Oil seal
17 Spacer
18 Inner bearing
19 Lower suspension
arm
20 Bush
21 Pivot bolt
§
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
Anti-roll bar
Bracket
Bearing
Subframe front
mounting
Bolt
Shock absorber
lower mounting
bolt
Steering arm
Upper balljoint
Subframe rear
mounting
Swivel hub
Outer bearing
Oil seal
Lower balljoint
Bush
Plastic washer
Caliper
Disc shield
Driving flange and
disc
Hydragas unit
Return spring
1.2 Exploded view of the rear
suspension
1 Thrustwasher
2 Needle roller
bearing
3 Sealing ring
4 Lubricating tube
5 Rebound rubber
6 Radius arm
7 Pivot shaft
8 Retaining plate
9 Bump rubber
10 Stub shaft
11 Socket
12 Ball-pin
13 Boot
14 Return spring
15 Strut
16 Helper spring
17 Hydragas unit
18 Mounting pad
19 Reaction strap
20 Handbrake cable
mounting bracket
21 Backplate
22 Upper return
spring
23 Brake shoe
24 Brake adjuster
25 Handbrake levers
26 Lower return
spring
27 Wheel cylinder
28 Oil seal
29 Inner bearing
30 Hub
31 Outer bearing
32 Brake drum
33 Grease retaining
cap
2.1 Suspension ride height measuring points
Measure VERTICALLY (seen from the front and side of vehicle) from wheel arch lip to
roadwheel hub centre - see Specifications for dimensions
2 Hydragas units - testing
Testing
1 A fault in a Hydragas unit can be
determined by checking the car ride height as
shown (see illustration). If the measurements
are less than those specified, first check the
units and rear interconnecting pipe for signs
of leakage, which will appear as a slight
residue left after the fluid has evaporated.
2 If the cause is a union, tighten the nut and
have the system repressurised by a Rover
dealer.
3 Where a leak in a Hydragas unit is
suspected, clean the area around the
charging valve threads to determine whether
the valve is the source of the leak.
Talcum powder dusted
around the clean valve may
be helpful in tracing a leak..
4 If it is established that the leak is occurring
round the valve threads, have the system
depressurised by your Rover dealer, then
unscrew the valve.
5 Screw in a new valve, using a sealant on the
threads (Loctite 270 or equivalent). Tighten
the valve to the specified torque. Have the
system recharged by your Rover dealer on
completion, and check for leaks.
6 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit is
leaking fluid, renew the unit and again have it
repressurised by a Rover dealer.
7 If no fluid leak can be found, it is possible
that nitrogen has leaked from the unit. To
check this, the car must be taken to a Rover
dealer and the unit checked with the pressure
pump. The fluid pressure should increase
rapidly to the pressure of the nitrogen, and
thereafter increase at a noticeably slower rate.
If nitrogen has been leaking, the pressure will
have dropped and the fluid pressure will
increase rapidly above the normal nitrogen
pressure. The nitrogen pressures are as
follows:
Front Hydragas unit
325 lbf/in2 ± 6.5 lbf/in2
(2241 kN/m2 ± 44.8 kN/m2)
Rear Hydragas unit
230 lbf/in2 ± 4.6 lbf/in2
(1586 kN/m2 ± 31.7 kN/m2)
Note that the rear Hydragas units must be
checked for a nitrogen leak separately, by
removing the interconnecting pipe and using
an adapter.
8 If it is determined that a Hydragas unit has
leaked nitrogen, renew it and have the
suspension repressurised by a Rover dealer.
3 Front Hydragas unit - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Have the Hydragas unit depressurised by a
Rover dealer.
2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
3 Unbolt the outer bracket from the subframe
tower, and withdraw the Hydragas unit
together with its return spring (see
illustration).
4 Remove the piston spacer(s) from the
knuckle joint on the driver’s side.
Refitting
3.3 Front Hydragas unit
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but have
the Hydragas unit pressurised by a Rover
dealer.
10
10•6 Suspension and steering
4.3 Front shock absorber and lower
mounting
4 Front shock absorber removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 If the left-hand shock absorber is being
removed, remove the retaining screws and
place the cooling system expansion tank to
one side.
2 For both left and right-hand sides unscrew
the self-locking nut from the upper mounting,
and remove the cup washer and large
diameter rubber bush.
3 Turn the steering to allow access from the
front, then unscrew the bottom mounting nut
and remove the washer (see illustration).
4 Slide the shock absorber, washer and
distance sleeve from the bottom mounting
bolt, leaving the bolt and bump stop in
position.
5 Withdraw the shock absorber from the
upper mounting together with the small
diameter rubber bush.
Overhaul
6 The rubber bush in the front shock
absorber lower mounting eye may be
renewed separately to the shock absorber if
necessary. If so, drive the metal sleeve from
the centre of the bush.
7 Using a metal tube, long bolt, thick washers
and nut, pull the bush from the mounting eye.
If necessary, cut the bush with a small
hacksaw before removing it.
8 Dip the new bush in soapy water before
pressing it into the eye, then refit the shock
absorber.
5.1 Removing a front suspension rebound
buffer
5.4 Anti-roll bar-to-lower suspension arm
joint
9 Note that the shock absorber must be
stored in an upright position.
4 Extract the split pin from one end of the
anti-roll bar and unscrew the nut (see
illustration). Remove the plain washer and
plastic washer. Similarly remove the nut and
washers from the remaining end of the
anti-roll bar.
5 Unbolt the bearing brackets from the front
of the subframe, noting the position of the
components (see illustration).
6 Unbolt and detach one of the subframe rear
mountings.
7 Remove the nut, spring and plain washer
from the mounting pivot bolt, then drive the
bolt through the mounting and lower
suspension arm.
8 Pull the lower suspension arm from the
subframe and detach the anti-roll bar from
both lower suspension arms. Withdraw the
anti-roll bar from the car. Remove the
washers.
Refitting
10 Before fitting, grip the shock absorber
lower mounting in a vice with the unit upright,
then compress and extend it at least six times
until there is no free travel when changing the
direction of stroke. This will remove any
trapped air from the internal fluid.
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
tighten the self-locking mounting nuts to the
specified torque.
5 Anti-roll bar - removal, overhaul
and refitting
Removal
1 Turn the steering as necessary to allow
access from the front, and remove the
rebound buffers from the subframe on both
sides. The buffers are located beneath the
suspension upper arms and are secured by
two cross-head screws (see illustration).
2 Insert distance pieces such as nuts in place
of the buffers to retain the suspension in the
normal running position.
3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove both
front wheels.
Overhaul
9 Check the anti-roll bar bushes for
deterioration. Renew them if necessary.
Lubricate the new bushes with a grease.
10 Clean any grease from the anti-roll bar
itself in the area next to the bushes.
11 If not already so equipped, fit clamps and
U-bolts on the inboard side of each bush as
shown (see illustration). The correct clamps
are available from your Rover dealer.
5.11 Views of anti-roll bar clamp
1
2
3
4
5
6
5.5 Anti-roll bar and front bearing bracket
Bush
U-bolt
Clamp top half
Anti-roll bar
Washer
Nut
Suspension and steering 10•7
Application of spacers for front Hydrogas units
Model
MG Turbo
MG and Vanden Plas (manual)
MG and Vanden Plas (manual
- alternative fitting
Automatic models
All other models except Van
Van
5.12 U-bolt and clamp next to anti-roll bar
bush
12 Tighten the U-bolts evenly to the specified
torque, making sure that the clamps are
pulled down evenly and that the clamps are
firmly up against the bushes, thus preventing
sideways movement of the anti-roll bar (see
illustration).
Refitting
13 To refit the anti-roll bar, first fit one steel
washer against the shoulder on each end of
the bar, followed by one plastic washer.
14 Insert the bar in the fixed lower
suspension arm, then in the free lower
suspension arm.
15 Locate the lower suspension arm in the
subframe and insert the pivot bolt through the
arm and mounting from the front. Fit the plain
washer and spring washer and tighten the nut
finger tight.
16 Fit the mounting to the underbody and
tighten the bolts.
17 Fit the bearing brackets to the front of the
subframe and tighten the nuts finger tight.
18 Fit one plain washer on the ends of the
bar against the lower arms, followed by the
steel washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts
finger tight.
19 Fit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
20 Remove the distance pieces and fit the
rebound buffers to the subframe.
21 With the weight of the car on the
suspension, tighten the lower arm pivot bolts
and the anti-roll bar bracket bolts to the
specified torque.
22 Tighten the anti-roll bar end nuts to the
lower of the torque wrench settings specified.
LH side
1
0
RH side
3
2
Thickness i n (mm)
0.09 (2.29)
0.09 (2.29)
1
1
0
0
1
4
2
0
0.05 (1.27)
0.09 (2.29)
0.09 (2.29)
-
Tighten further if necessary to align the split
pin holes, but do not exceed the higher
specified torque. Insert new split pins and
bend over the ends to secure.
6 Front suspension upper arm removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Have the relevant Hydragas unit
depressurised by a Rover dealer.
2 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle
support”). Apply the handbrake and remove
the roadwheel.
3 Unscrew the shock absorber lower
mounting nut, and remove the shock
absorber, washers and distance sleeve.
4 Remove the bolt and bump stop.
5 Remove the knuckle joint from the upper
arm and extract it from the Hydragas unit
together with the return spring (see
illustration).
6 Support the driving flange and disc
assembly with a trolley jack or block of wood.
7 Flatten the tab washer and unscrew the
swivel hub upper balljoint nut. Remove the tab
washer.
8 Using a separator tool, release the upper
arm from the balljoint.
9 Unscrew the upper arm shaft rear nut, and
unbolt the front retaining plate from the
subframe (see illustration).
10 If removing the left-hand side upper arm,
move the windscreen washer reservoir to one
side.
11 Withdraw the pivot shaft assembly from
the front of the subframe and recover the rear
washers.
12 Lift the suspension upper arm from the
subframe and recover the sealing rings and
rear thrustwasher.
14 Remove the needle roller bearings with a
soft metal drift.
15 Examine the needle roller bearings and
the pivot shaft for damage, wear and pitting. If
evident, renew the bearings and shaft. Make
sure that the grease nipple lubrication drilling
is unobstructed.
16 Drive the needle roller bearings into the
upper arm with the marked ends facing
outwards. Lubricate the bearings with multipurpose lithium based grease, then refit the
grease nipple.
Refitting
17 The number and thickness of the
spacer(s) fitted between the front Hydragas
units and their knuckle joint varies according
to model.
18 Incorrect fitting of spacers will make the
suspension seem firmer on one side of the car
than on the other. Correct applications are as
shown in the table at the top of this page.
19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
the following additional points:
a) The thrustwashers must be fitted with
their grooved sides against the upper
arm. Initially, fit the sealing rings and
locate the rear thrustwasher in the ring.
b) Lubricate the knuckle joint with a
multi-purpose lithium based grease
c) Tighten all nuts to the specified torque,
and lock the swivel hub upper balljoint nut
by bending the tab washer over the upper
arm and nut.
d) After having the Hydragas unit
pressurised by a Rover dealer, fully loosen
the shock absorber lower mounting nut
and retighten it to the specified torque
with the weight of the car on the
suspension.
Overhaul
10
Clean all the components in
paraffin and wipe dry.
6.5 Hydragas unit-to-upper arm knuckle
joint
13 To overhaul the upper arm, unscrew the
grease nipple and grip the arm in a soft-jawed
vice.
6.9 Front suspension upper arm pivot
front retaining plate
10•8 Suspension and steering
7 Front suspension lower arm removal, overhaul and refitting
8 Front suspension upper or
lower balljoint - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Turn the steering as necessary to allow
access from the front, and remove the
rebound buffer from the subframe on the
relevant side. The buffer is located beneath
the suspension upper arm and is secured by
two cross-head screws.
2 Insert a distance piece such as a suitably
sized nut in place of the buffer to retain the
suspension in the normal running position.
3 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
4 Extract the split pin from the end of the
anti-roll bar and unscrew the nut. Remove the
plain washer and plastic washer abutting the
lower arm.
5 Unbolt the anti-roll bar bearing brackets
from the front of the subframe, noting the
position of the components.
6 Flatten the tab washer and unscrew the
swivel hub lower balljoint nut. Remove the tab
washer.
7 Using a separator tool, release the lower
arm from the balljoint.
8 Unbolt and detach the relevant subframe
rear mounting.
9 Remove the nut, spring and plain washer
from the pivot bolt, then drive the bolt through
the mounting and lower suspension arm.
10 Pull the lower suspension arm from the
subframe, and remove it from the anti-roll bar.
Recover the plastic and steel washers from
the anti-roll bar.
Overhaul
11 To overhaul the lower arm, the pivot bush
and anti-roll bar bush should be renewed. To
remove the bushes, use a length of metal
tubing, a long bolt, nut and packing pieces.
Tighten the nut to draw out the bush. To fit the
new bushes, dip them in a soapy water
solution or use a rubber lubricant. Pull them
into the lower arm using a nut and bolt and
packing pieces.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
the following additional points:
a) The anti-roll bar plastic washers must be
fitted against the lower arm
b) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque; the lower arm pivot bolt and the
anti-roll bar mounting nuts and bolts
should be fully tightened with the weight
of the car on the suspension
c) Lock the swivel hub lower balljoint nut by
bending the tab washer over the lower
arm and nut.
d) Lock the anti-roll bar-to-lever arm
retaining nut with a new split pin.
Removal
1 To prevent problems by not being able to
unscrew the balljoint socket, it is
recommended that tool 18G1341 is obtained
from a tool hire agent.
2 Turn the steering as necessary to allow
access from the front, and remove the
rebound buffer from the subframe on the
relevant side. The buffer is located beneath
the suspension upper arm and is secured by
two cross-head screws.
3 Insert a distance piece such as a suitably
sized nut in place of the buffer to retain the
suspension in the normal running position.
4 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
5 Flatten the tab washer and unscrew the
swivel hub upper or lower balljoint nut (as
applicable). Remove the tab washer.
6 Using a separator tool release the balljoint
from the suspension arm. If removing the
upper balljoint, support the swivel hub
assembly with a trolley jack.
7 Flatten the lockwasher tabs, and if available
fit tool 18G1341 to the balljoint socket,
retaining it in position with the balljoint nut.
8 Hold the driving flange and swivel hub
stationary, then unscrew the balljoint socket
and remove the lockwasher. Remove the tool
if used.
Refitting
9 Fitting a new balljoint is a reversal of the
removal procedure. Apply two beads of
Loctite 245 or equivalent compound,
diametrically opposite each other, to the
thread (see illustration). Tighten the balljoint
and nut to the specified torques within 15
minutes of Loctite application. Lock the
balljoint by bending two opposite tabs of the
lockwasher over the sides of the swivel hub.
Lock the balljoint nut by bending the tab
washer over the suspension arm and nut.
8.9 Sectional view of swivel hub upper
balljoint, showing application of thread
locking compound
driveshaft and loosen the nut while an
assistant depresses the footbrake pedal.
4 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
5 Remove the brake caliper as described in
Chapter 9, but leave the hydraulic hoses
connected, and support the caliper on a stand
without straining the hoses.
6 Unscrew the driveshaft nut and remove the
split collar.
7 Slide the drive flange and disc assembly
from the driveshaft, using a puller.
8 Flatten the tab washers and unscrew the
swivel hub upper and lower balljoint nuts (see
illustration). Remove the tab washers.
9 Unscrew and remove the tie-rod end nut.
Remove the disc shield.
10 Using a separator tool, release the tie-rod
end from the steering arm, and the
suspension arms from the balljoints.
11 While tapping the end of the driveshaft
with a mallet, withdraw the swivel hub
assembly. Use a puller to remove the inner
bearing inner race from the driveshaft.
12 If necessary, remove the water shield from
the driveshaft.
13 Prise out the inner oil seal and remove the
spacer.
14 Prise out the outer oil seal.
15 Using a soft metal drift, drive out one of
the bearing inner races, then invert the hub
9 Front hub assembly - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Turn the steering as necessary to allow
access from the front, and remove the
rebound buffer from the subframe on the
relevant side. The buffer is located beneath
the suspension upper arm and is secured by
two cross-head screws.
2 Insert a distance piece such as a nut in
place of the buffer to retain the suspension in
the normal running position.
3 Extract the split pin from the end of the
9.8 Swivel hub upper balljoint
Suspension and steering 10•9
Refitting
9.21 Cross-sectional
view of the front hub
1 Driving flange and
disc
2 Outer oil seal
3 Outer bearing
4 Inner bearing
5 Spacer
6 Inner oil seal
7 Swivel hub
8 Water shield
9 Driveshaft
Dimension “A” = 0.25 in
(6.4 mm)
and drive out the complete opposite bearing.
Invert the hub again and drive out the
remaining outer race.
Overhaul
Note: The inner oil seal has an extended
flange that fits into the water shield.
16 Clean the hub, bearings and driveshaft
stub with paraffin and wipe dry. The inner
10.4a Rear suspension bump rubber
(arrowed) . . .
bearing will almost certainly be damaged
upon removal, therefore replacement will be
necessary. The bearings are only available in
a complete kit, along with all the seals,
spacers grease and split pins required.
17 Lubricate the bearings with the grease
supplied, then drive them into the swivel hub
with the marked ends facing outwards. Use a
length of tubing on the outer races only.
18 Fit the spacer against the inner bearing.
19 Dip the oil seals in engine oil, then press
them into the swivel hub with their lips facing
inwards. Use a block of wood to locate the
outer seal flush with the hub, and use a length
of metal tubing to locate the inner seal against
the spacer.
20 Press grease into the spaces between the
bearings and oil seals.
21 Press the water shield onto the driveshaft
with reference to dimension “A” (see
illustration). Fill the water shield groove with
grease.
22 Locate the swivel hub over the end of the
driveshaft and, using a length of metal tubing
against the outer bearing inner race, tap the
inner races fully onto the driveshaft.
23 The remaining refitting procedure is a
reversal of removal, but tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Lock the balljoint nuts by
bending the tab washers over the suspension
arms and nuts. Refer to Chapter 8 for the
driveshaft nut tightening procedure.
10 Rear Hydragas unit - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Have the rear Hydragas units depressurised
by a Rover dealer.
2 Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the car and support it on stands. Remove the
roadwheel.
3 Disconnect and plug the interconnecting
pipe from the Hydragas unit.
4 Unbolt the bump rubber and reaction strap
from the body (see illustrations).
5 Unbolt the shield and clamp plate from the
subframe.
6 Withdraw the Hydragas unit, helper spring
and strut, together with the return spring from
the subframe and knuckle joint.
7 Prise the knuckle joint assembly from the
radius arm.
8 Note that if the three-way connector in front
of the left-hand rear wheel is removed, it must
always be refitted with the restricted drilling in
the line between the two rear Hydragas units
(see illustration).
9 Check the knuckle joint for wear, and renew
it if necessary.
Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
lubricate the knuckle joint with a
multi-purpose lithium based grease. Have the
rear Hydragas units pressurised by a Rover
dealer.
11 The struts must be located in the centre
hole within the units, and where helper
springs are fitted, these must locate on the
split collars welded to the subframe. If the
split collars are loose, have them re-welded in
position.
10
10.4b . . . Hydragas unit . . .
10.4c . . . and reaction strap inner
mounting nut (arrowed)
10.8 Rear Hydragas interconnecting pipe
and three-way connector
10•10 Suspension and steering
11.4 Brake pipe and hose connection on
rear suspension radius arm
11 Rear suspension radius arm removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the rear Hydragas unit as
described in Section 10.
2 Release the handbrake, then remove the
clevis pin and disconnect the handbrake
cable from the backplate and bracket.
3 Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap,
wrap thin polythene over the level warning
switch and tighten the cap onto the
polythene. This will help prevent brake fluid
from being lost in the subsequent procedure.
4 Unscrew the rigid brake pipe union, then
unscrew the nut and remove the flexible hose
from the bracket in the radius arm (see
illustration).
5 Unscrew the nuts from each end of the
pivot shaft, and unbolt the retaining plate from
the subframe (see illustrations). Remove the
outer thrustwasher.
6 Support the radius arm with a jack, then tap
out the pivot shaft from the inside.
7 Withdraw the radius arm and collect the
inner thrustwasher and both sealing rings.
8 If necessary, remove the brake shoes and
backplate as described in Chapter 9.
9 If the bearings are to be renewed, drive
them out of the radius arm and remove the
lubricating tube.
Overhaul
10 Clean all the components with paraffin
and examine them for wear and damage.
Renew them as necessary and obtain new
sealing rings. Make sure that the lubricating
drillings in the shaft are unobstructed.
11 Drive one needle roller bearing into the
outer end of the radius arm with its stamped
end outwards and to a depth of 0.2 in (5 mm).
12 Insert the lubricating tube with the splined
end towards the outer bearing, and drive the
second needle roller bearing into the radius
arm with the stamped end facing outwards.
13 Locate the large thrustwasher with its
grooved side against the inner end of the
radius arm, and fit the wide sealing ring over it.
14 Fit the narrow sealing ring to the outer end
of the radius arm.
11.5a Rear suspension arm pivot shaft
inner nut
11.5b Rear suspension arm outer
mounting
15 Support the radius arm in the subframe,
and insert the pivot shaft with the grease
nipple outwards.
16 Fit the small thrustwasher with the
chamfer against the shaft, install the retaining
plate, and tighten the bolts.
17 Fit the spring washers and nuts to the
pivot shaft and tighten them to the specified
torque.
18 Using a grease gun, lubricate the radius
arm bearings with the recommended grease.
19 Reconnect the brake flexible hose and
rigid pipe to the bracket. Reconnect the
handbrake cable.
20 Remove the polythene from the brake
fluid reservoir, then adjust and bleed the
brakes as described in Chapter 9.
5 Extract the split pin and unscrew the hub
nut. Remove the plain washer.
6 Using a puller, remove the hub from the
stub shaft. If the inner bearing inner race
remains in the stub shaft, use a puller to
remove it.
7 Prise out the oil seal with a screwdriver.
8 Using a soft metal drill, drive out one of the
bearing inner races, then invert the hub and
drive out the complete opposite bearing.
Invert the hub again and drive out the
remaining outer race.
Refitting
21 Spacers are now fitted between the rear
struts and Hydragas units as shown below:
Model
LH side RH side Thickness
in (mm)
MG Turbo
1
1
0.145 (3.68)
All other 3-door models
(except van) 1
1
0.05 (1.27)
Van and 5-door
models
0
0
22 Refit the rear Hydragas unit as described
in Section 10.
12 Rear hub assembly - removal,
overhaul and refitting
Note: From chassis number 631497 (early
1982), nearside hub nut and shaft has lefthand thread. All replacement nearside hub nut
and shaft assemblies have left-hand thread
regardless of year.
Overhaul
9 Clean all the components in paraffin and
examine them for damage and wear. Check
the bearing balls and races for wear and
pitting. Renew the components as necessary
and obtain a new oil seal. If the wheel studs
are worn or damaged, drive them out and
install new ones.
10 Lubricate the bearings with multi-purpose
lithium based grease, then drive them into the
hub with their marked ends outwards, using a
length of metal tube on the outer races.
11 Dip the oil seal in engine oil, then press it
into the hub with the lip facing inwards.
12 Wipe clean the stub shaft and oil seal
bearing surface. Locate the hub on the stub
shaft and use a length of metal tube to drive
the inner races onto the shaft.
13 Fit the plain washer and tighten the nut to
the specified torque.
14 Lock the nut with a new split pin and tap
the grease cap into the hub.
Refitting
15 Refit the brake drum and wheel, adjust the
brakes, and lower the car to the ground.
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel and release the handbrake.
2 Remove the securing screws and withdraw
the brake drum; loosen the adjuster if
necessary.
3 Brush clean the backplate, but do not
inhale the brake dust as it is injurious to health.
4 Using a soft metal punch, tap the grease
cap on alternate sides, and remove it (see
illustration).
12.4 Removing the rear hub grease cap
Suspension and steering 10•11
6 Clean the components in paraffin and wipe
dry. Examine the bush for wear and renew it if
necessary.
13 Rear anti-roll bar (MG Turbo)
- removal and refitting
Refitting
Removal
1 Chock the front wheels, slacken the rear
wheel nuts and raise and support the rear of
the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.
2 Undo the nut and bolt on each side which
hold the ends of the anti-roll bar to the
suspension links.
3 Remove the mounting clamps from the
central section of the anti-roll bar. The bar and
mounting rubbers can now be removed.
4 Renew any mounting components which
have deteriorated. Renew the anti-roll bar if it
is distorted or damaged.
14.2 Removing the steering wheel central
cover
15 Steering column - removal
and refitting
Refitting
5 Commence refitting by connecting the ends
of the bar to the suspension links. Fit the nut
and bolt on each side but do not tighten them
yet.
6 Fit the mounting clamps over the mounting
rubbers and secure them to their brackets.
7 Tighten the mounting clamp bolts and then
the end link nuts and bolts.
8 Refit the roadwheels and lower the car to
the ground.
14 Steering wheel - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
2 Prise the cover from the centre of the
steering wheel (see illustration).
3 Unscrew and remove the retaining nut and
mark the steering wheel and inner column in
relation to each other.
4 Withdraw the steering wheel from the inner
column splines.
Note: The top bush for 1986-on models is a
press fit in the top of the outer column, and
should be coated with graphite grease before
fitting.
Removal
1 Remove the steering wheel (Section 14).
2 Lift the carpet, remove the coupling cover,
and unbolt the inner column from the flexible
coupling. Carefully note how the bolts are
positioned to ensure that they are refitted
correctly.
3 Remove the steering column cowls with
reference to Chapter 12. Disconnect the
multi-plugs (see illustration).
4 Unscrew the top and bottom mountings
and withdraw the steering column assembly
from the car.
5 Remove the switch assembly. Unbolt the
upper column, withdraw the inner column,
and remove the top bush halves.
7 To reassemble, insert the inner column in
the outer column then bolt the top bush and
upper column to the outer column. The top
bush for 1986-on models is a press fit in the
top of the outer column, and should be
coated with graphite grease before fitting.
8 Fit the combination switch assembly and
tighten the clamp screw.
9 Centralise the inner steering column and
roadwheels, and engage the pinion coupling
with the flexible coupling. Align the column and
fit the top mounting bracket bolts finger tight.
10 Fully tighten the coupling nuts. The
flexible coupling, on later models incorporate
a support plate which must contact the pinion
coupling with the lugs located over the studs.
11 Position the coupling cover as shown
(see illustration), centralise the inner column
in the outer column, then insert and tighten
the coupling cover bolts. Fit the circular
grommet.
12 Fully tighten the top mounting bracket
bolts. When refitting the steering column,
make sure that there is a clearance between
the bottom of the steering wheel and the
cowls. If not, loosen the outer column
mounting bolts, lower the column slightly,
then retighten the bolts. Note that the
adjustment is only possible on 1986-on
models.
13 Reconnect the ignition switch multi-plug
and combination switch bulbholder, and refit
the fusebox cover.
14 Reconnect the wiring multi-plugs.
15 Refit the steering column cowls and
steering wheel.
16 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reversal of removal, but align
the previously made marks, and tighten the
retaining nut to the specified torque.
10
15.11 Correct position of coupling cover
15.3 Steering column and wiring multiplug
1 Right-hand drive coupling cover bolts
2 Left-hand drive coupling cover bolts
3 Clamp bolt
10•12 Suspension and steering
16 Steering column lock/ignition
switch - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the steering column (Section 15).
2 Drill out the shear bolt heads from the lock
clamp, and remove the lock ignition switch
from the outer column.
3 Locate the lock body centrally over the slot
in the outer column, and lightly bolt the clamp
into position without shearing the heads.
Refitting
4 Refit the steering column, but before fitting
the cowls, check that the lock and ignition
switch operate correctly.
5 Tighten the clamp bolts until the bolt heads
shear off, then refit the cowls.
17 Tie-rod end balljoint removal and refitting
Removal
1 Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car, and support it on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the
roadwheel.
2 Loosen the tie-rod end adjustment locknut
a quarter of a turn.
3 Unscrew the balljoint nut and detach the
balljoint from the steering arm using a
separator tool (see illustrations).
4 Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
the nuts to the specified torque and check the
front wheel alignment, making any adjustment
as necessary as in Section 19.
18 Steering rack gaiter - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the tie-rod end balljoint as
described in Section 17.
2 Loosen the clips on the tie-rod and steering
gear housing, and remove the gaiter.
3 Lubricate the contact surfaces of the gaiter
with steering gear grease, then locate it over
the tie-rod and housing.
4 Secure the gaiter with the two clips.
Refitting
5 Refit the tie-rod end balljoint (Section 17).
19 Wheel alignment - checking
and adjusting
17.3a Steering tie-rod end balljoint
17.3b Using a separator tool to release the
tie-rod end balljoint
checking it, make sure that the car is only
loaded to kerbside weight (i.e. with a full fuel
tank), the tyres are correctly inflated, and the
suspension ride heights are correct; check the
latter as described in Section 2, and
specifications at the beginning of this chapter.
2 Place the car on level ground with the
wheels in the straight-ahead position, then roll
the car backwards 12 ft (4 metres) and
forwards again.
3 Using a wheel alignment gauge, check that
the front wheel toe-out dimension is as given
in the Specifications.
Apply the handbrake and remove both front
wheels. Centralise the steering.
3 Lift the carpet, remove the coupling cover,
and disconnect the pinion coupling from the
flexible coupling. Unbolt the steering column
from the top mounting bracket (1985 on
models). Note how the bolts are positioned to
ensure that they are refitted correctly.
4 Unscrew the tie-rod end balljoint nuts and
use a separator tool to detach the balljoints
from the steering arms.
5 Unscrew the nuts and bolts and remove the
U-bolt and mounting pad and clamp (see
illustration).
6 Rotate the rack assembly and withdraw it
from the driver’s side of the subframe.
7 Remove the tie-rod ends, locknuts, gaiters
and clips with reference to Sections 17 and 18.
Adjustment
4 If adjustment is necessary, loosen the
tie-rod end locknuts on both tie-rods and
release the small gaiter clips.
5 Rotate each tie-rod by equal amounts until
the alignment is correct. Ideally, there should
be an equal number of exposed threads on
each tie-rod, but note that the setting
procedure used by the factory means that
there can be up to six threads difference in
tie-rod lengths with the wheel alignment still
within tolerances; if this is found to be the case
on any vehicle, care must be taken to alter the
length of both tie-rods by exactly the same
amount so that the factory setting is preserved.
6 Tighten the locknuts and refit the gaiter
clips.
7 Camber and castor angles are preset and
cannot be adjusted. However, if their
accuracy is suspect, they can be checked by
a suitably equipped dealer.
20 Steering rack and pinion removal, overhaul and refitting
Overhaul
8 Examine the steering gear assembly for
signs of wear or damage, and check that the
rack moves freely throughout the full length of
its travel, with no signs of roughness or
excessive free play between the steering gear
pinion and rack. It is possible to overhaul the
steering gear assembly housing components,
but this task should be entrusted to a Rover
dealer. The only components which can be
renewed easily by the home mechanic are the
steering gear gaiters, the tie rod balljoints and
the tie rod ends (see illustrations).
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but tighten
all nuts and bolts to the specified torque, and
adjust the front wheel alignment as described
in Section 19.
Where difficulty is
experienced in removing the
steering rack and pinion
assembly, the pinion
coupling may be removed from the
pinion splines after removing the clamp
bolt. Mark the pinion and coupling
before separating them to ensure
correct reassembly.
Removal
Checking
1 Accurate wheel adjustment is essential for
good steering and slow tyre wear. Before
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Jack up the front of the car and support it
on stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
20.5 Steering rack and pinion U-bolt
mounting nuts (arrowed)
Suspension and steering 10•13
20.8a Exploded view of the steering
components (early models)
1 Tie-rod end
2 Locknut
3 Tie-rod
4 Rubber gaiter
5 Ball housing
6 Ball seat
7 Locking pin
8 Locking ring
9 Rack
10 End cover
11 Gasket
12 Shims
13 Bearing
14 Pinion
15 Bearing
16 Oil seal
17 Pinion coupling
18 Flexible coupling
19 Inner column
20 Mounting bracket
21 Cowl assembly
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
Steering wheel
Upper column
Top bush
Steering lock and
ignition switch
Outer column
Clip
Ring
Cover
Plastic bush
Clamp
Centralising hole
seal
U-bolt
Rack housing
Mounting pad
Yoke
Spring
Shims
Gasket
End cover
20.8b Exploded view of the steering
components on 1985 models
1 Tie-rod ends
2 Locknuts
3 Tie-rods
4 Rubber gaiters
5 Rack housing
6 U-bolt
7 Mounting pad
8 Centralising hole seal
9 Clamp
10 Pinion coupling
11 Flexible coupling
12 Inner column
13 Coupling cover
14 Retaining ring
15 Outer column
16 Top mounting
bracket
17 Top bush
18 Upper column
19 Steering wheel
20 Ignition switch/
steering lock
assembly
21 Steering column
cowl
10
10•14 Suspension and steering
20.8c Exploded view of the steering
components on 1986-on models
1 Tie-rod ends
2 Locknuts
3 Tie rods
4 Rubber gaiters
5 Rack housing
6 U-bolt
7 Mounting pad
8 Centralising hole seal
9 Clamp
10 Pinion coupling
11 Flexible coupling
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Inner column
Coupling cover
Retaining ring
Outer column
Top mounting bracket
Top bush
Steering wheel
Ignition switch/steering
lock assembly
20 Steering column cowl
11•1
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Contents
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Bonnet lock - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Bonnet lock cross panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3, Section 5
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Central locking door lock motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .19
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door private lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door rattles - tracing and rectification, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Door trim pad - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Electric window motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Facia - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Front seat release lever cable (3-door models) - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlamp surrounds (1984-on) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .28
Heater - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3
Heater and heater radiator - removal and refitting . . . . .See Chapter 3
Heater motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 3
Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Interior rear view mirror - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Opening rear quarterlight - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Plastic components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Radiator grille (1984-on) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Rear quarterlight glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Rear spoiler (MG and 1985-on models) - removal and refitting . . . . .34
Remote control door mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Subframes - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Sunroof - general, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Tailgate glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Tailgate lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Wheel arch finishers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Windscreen glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
1 General description
The bodyshell and underframe are of
all-steel welded construction and of computer
based design. The assembly and welding of
the main body unit is completed entirely by
computer controlled robots, and the finished
unit is checked for dimensional accuracy
using modern computer and laser technology.
The front wings are bolted in position and
are detachable should renewal be necessary
after a front end collision.
2 Minor body damage - repair
Note: For more detailed information about
bodywork repair, the Haynes Publishing
Group publish a book called, The Car
Bodywork Repair Manual. This incorporates
information on such aspects as rust treatment,
painting and glass fibre repairs, as well as
details on more ambitious repairs involving
welding and panel beating.
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Repair of minor scratches in
bodywork
If the scratch is very superficial, and does
not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,
repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of
the scratch with a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste or compound, to
remove loose paint from the scratch and to
clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish.
Rinse the area with clean water.
Apply touch-up paint, or a paint film to the
scratch using a fine paint brush. Continue to
apply fine layers of paint until the surface of
the paint in the scratch is level with the
surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at
least two weeks to harden: then blend it into
the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the
scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, or compound. Finally,
apply wax polish.
Where the scratch has penetrated right
through to the metal of the bodywork, causing
the metal to rust, a different repair technique
is required. Remove any loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then
apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
or nylon applicator fill the scratch with
bodystopper paste or putty. If required, this
paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to
provide a very thin paste that is ideal for filling
narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in
the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth
cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the
finger in cellulose thinners, and then quickly
sweep it across the surface of the
stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure
that the surface of the stopper-paste is
slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be
painted over as described earlier in this
Section.
Repair of dents in bodywork
When deep denting of the vehicle’s
bodywork has taken place, the first task is to
pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork
almost attains its original shape. There is little
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely, as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better
to bring the level of the dent up to a point that
is about 1⁄8 in (3 mm) below the level of the
surrounding bodywork. In cases where the
dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth
11
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the
dent is accessible, it can be hammered out
gently from behind, using a mallet with a
wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold
a block of wood firmly against the outside of
the panel to absorb the impact from the
hammer blows. This will prevent a large area of
the bodywork from being belled-out.
Should the dent be in a section of the
bodywork that has a double skin or some
other factor making it inaccessible from
behind, a different technique is called for. Drill
several small holes through the metal inside
the area - particularly in the deeper section.
Then screw long self-tapping screws into the
holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good
purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be
pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads
of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next
stage of the repair is the removal of the paint
from the damaged area, and from an inch or
so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork. This
is accomplished most easily by using a wire
brush or abrasive pad on a power drill,
although it can be done just as effectively by
hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small
holes in the affected area. This will provide a
good “key” for the filler paste.
Repair of rust holes or gashes in
bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”
bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire
rush on a power drill. If these are not available
a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job
just as effectively. With the paint removed you
will be able to gauge the severity of the
corrosion and therefore decide whether to
renew the whole panel (if this is possible) to
repair the affected area. New body panels are
not as expensive as most people think and it
is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a
few panel than to attempt to repair large areas
of corrosion.
Remove all fittings from the affected area
except those which will act as a guide to the
original shape of the damaged bodywork (i.e.
headlamp shells, etc.). Then, using tin snips or
a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.
Hammer the edges of the hole inwards to
create a slight depression for the filler paste.
Wire brush the affected area to remove the
powdery rust from the surface of the
remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint. If the back of the rusted
rear is accessible treat this also.
Before filling can take place it will be
necessary to block the hole in some way. This
can be achieved by aluminium or plastic
mesh, or aluminium tape.
Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre
matting is probably the best material to use
on a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
sufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape
with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to
ensure that the tape is securely attached to
the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs - filling and
re-spraying
Before reading these instructions, read
from the beginning of this Section about dent,
deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. Some can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and wellcontoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste. If you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block - otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.
Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer - this will show up imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight mismatch in paint colours. Bodywork
fittings (i.e. chrome strips, door handles, etc.),
will also need to be masked off. Use genuine
masking tape and several layers of newspaper
for the masking operations.
Before starting to spray, agitate the aerosol
can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old
tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered.
Cover the repair area with a thick coat of
primer; the thickness should be built up using
several thin layers of paint rather than one
thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper,
rub down the surface of the primer until it is
smooth. While doing this, the work area should
be thoroughly doused with water, and the
wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water.
Allow to dry before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about 2
inches of the surrounding original paintwork is
covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15
minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
3 Major body damage - repair
Where serious damage has occurred or
large areas need renewal due to neglect, it
means certainly that completely new sections
or panels will need welding in and this is best
left to professionals. If the damage is due to
impact, it will also be necessary to completely
check the alignment of the bodyshell
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
structure. Due to the principle of construction,
the strength and shape of the whole car can
be affected by damage to one part. In such
instances the services of a Rover dealer with
specialist checking jigs are essential. If a body
is left misaligned, it is firstly dangerous as the
car will not handle properly. Secondly, uneven
stresses will be imposed on the steering,
engine and transmission, causing abnormal
wear or complete failure. Tyre wear may also
be excessive.
4 Door rattles - tracing and
rectification
1 Check first that the door is not loose at the
hinges, and that the latch is holding the door
firmly in position. Check also that the door
lines up with the aperture in the body. If the
door is out of alignment, adjust it as described
in Sections 16 and 17.
2 If the latch is holding the door in the correct
position but the latch still rattles, the lock
mechanism is worn and should be renewed.
3 Other rattles from the door could be caused
by wear in the window operating mechanism,
interior lock mechanism, or loose glass
channels.
5 Bonnet - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Support the bonnet in its open position,
and place some cardboard or rags beneath
the corners by the hinges.
2 Mark the location of the hinges with a
pencil, then loosen the four retaining nuts and
bolts (see illustration).
3 With the help of an assistant, release the
stay, unscrew and remove the retaining bolts,
and withdraw the bonnet from the car.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the hinges to their original positions. The
bonnet rear edge should be flush with the
scuttle and the gaps at either side equal.
5.2 Bonnet hinge and bolts
7.9 Tailgate hinge and bellows
Refitting
8 Tailgate lock - removal and
refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
sealer compound to seal the wing to the body.
7 Tailgate - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Unhook the parcel shelf support cords.
3 Prise out the tailgate trim pad.
4 Disconnect the washer tube from the jet
and the wiper wires from the multi-plug, tape
them together, and tie a draw cord to them.
5 Prise out the rubber grommet and pull the
wires and tube through the tailgate until the
cord emerges, then untie the cord but leave it
in the tailgate.
6 Disconnect the wire from the heated rear
window and attach a cord to it. Prise out the
grommet and pull the wire through, then untie
the cord but leave it in position.
7 Using a pencil, mark the position of the
hinges.
8 With the help of an assistant, support the
tailgate, then prise out the locking pegs and
detach the support struts from the tailgate.
9 Using an impact screwdriver, remove the
hinge screws from the tailgate, then withdraw
the tailgate from the car (see illustration).
Removal
1 Prise out the trim pad.
2 Unclip the operating rod from the private
lock then unbolt the lock from the door (see
illustration).
3 If necessary, the private lock may be
removed by pulling out the clip. Note the
location of the sealing washer.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Refitting
10 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
adjust the hinges to their original positions
and if necessary adjust the striker (see
illustration).
6 Front wing - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Support the bonnet in its open position.
2 Pull the bulb holder from the side repeater
lamp.
3 Unscrew the bolt from behind the wing and
remove the bumper end capping. Remove the
aerial where applicable.
4 Loosen the wing retaining bolt in the top of
the door shut, and remove the remaining
bolts.
5 Withdraw the front wing from the car.
11
8.2 Tailgate lock components
7.10 Tailgate striker
1
2
3
4
Clip
Sealing washer
Retainer
Private lock lever
5 Operating rod and
clip
6 Lock
11•4 Bodywork and fittings
9.2a Releasing the tailgate strut locking
peg
9 Tailgate support strut removal and refitting
9.2b Removing the tailgate strut
9 From inside the car, pull each end of the
cord in turn to locate the rubber surround
onto the flange. Tap the glass with the palm of
the hand to make sure that it is fully seated.
10 Fit the interior mirror and wiper arms.
Removal
1 With the tailgate open, unhook the parcel
shelf support cords and have an assistant
support the tailgate.
2 Using a small screwdriver, prise out the
locking pegs and detach the support strut
from the tailgate and body (see illustrations).
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10 Windscreen glass - removal
and refitting
11 Tailgate glass - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
windscreen described in Section 10, except
that it is necessary to unhook the parcel shelf
support cords. Disconnect the heated rear
window feed wire and earth strap, and
remove the wiper arm and rubber grommet.
Refitting
2 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Removal
1 If the windscreen has shattered, cover the
facia panel and air vents with a large sheet of
polythene to catch the pieces of glass. If
available, adhesive sheeting will facilitate the
removal of the shattered windscreen. Remove
all the glass.
2 Remove the windscreen wiper arms and the
interior mirror.
3 If the windscreen is to be removed intact,
release the rubber surround from the
bodywork with a blunt screwdriver, taking
care not to damage the paintwork. Have an
assistant support the windscreen, then sit
inside and push the screen and rubber from
the aperture using the feet (suitably padded) if
necessary.
4 Remove the rubber surround.
5 Examine the rubber surround for damage or
deterioration and renew it if necessary. Clean
the sealer from the body aperture and repair
any damage or distortion of the flange.
Refitting
6 Fit the rubber surround to the windscreen
with the drain holes at the bottom.
7 Obtain a length of strong cord and insert it
into the flange groove of the rubber surround
with the free ends overlapping at the bottom.
8 Locate the windscreen on the aperture and
have an assistant press gently from the
outside.
12 Rear quarterlight glass removal and refitting
Removal
1 The procedure is similar to that for the
windscreen described in Section 10, except
that it is necessary to fold the relevant rear
seat forwards.
Refitting
2 When fitting the glass, apply sealer
between the outer part of the rubber surround
and the glass and flange.
13.2 Removing the bonnet release cable
14 Bonnet lock - adjustment
1 Adjustment is only possible at the lock pin
mounted on the bonnet (see illustration).
2 Loosen the locknut and use a screwdriver
to adjust the length of the lock pin so that the
bonnet closes easily and is held firmly in
place.
3 Tighten the locknut.
15 Door trim pad - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Remove the screws and withdraw the
armrest, interior door handle surround, door
pull and door pocket where fitted. On 5 door
models, prise out the plastic cap, then remove
the interior handle surround screw and
withdraw the surround (see illustrations).
2 Fully close the window and note the fitted
position of the window regulator handle.
Remove the screw and withdraw the handle
and bezel. Ideally the screw should be
removed with a special splined tool, but an
Allen key may be used instead (see
illustrations).
3 On the front door, remove the screws from
the door pocket and disconnect the wiring
plugs to the speaker and electric window
switch, as applicable.
4 With a wide-bladed screwdriver, release the
trim pad retaining clips from the door inner
13 Bonnet release cable removal and refitting
Removal
1 Working inside the car, remove the bonnet
release lever and disconnect the cable.
2 Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable from the lock and
release the cable straps (see illustration).
3 Withdraw the cable and grommet from the
scuttle.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
14.1 The bonnet lock pin
Bodywork and fittings 11•5
15.1b Removing the armrest
15.1c Removing the interior door handle
surround screw . . .
15.1d . . . and surround
15.1e Removing the plastic cap from the
interior door handle surround - later models
1 Remove the trim pad (Section 15).
2 Carefully pull off the polythene sheet.
Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs if fitted, and
release the rubber gaiter and pull the wiring
through the body.
3 On the rear door, if applicable, remove the
lower trim panel and seat belt reel from the
centre post.
4 Using a pencil, mark the position of the
hinges on the door (see illustrations).
5 With the help of an assistant, support the
door. On the front door, prise out the plug and
remove the lower hinge nuts and bolt.
Remove the top hinge bolts, withdraw the
door and recover the lower hinge plate.
15.1f Removing the front door pull lower
screw on 5-door models
15.2a Removing the window regulator
handle - early models
15.2b Removing the plastic cap from the
window regulator handle - later models
15.1a Door trim pad and fittings
1 Armrest
2 Door handle
surround
3 Pocket
4 Window regulator
handle
5 Trim pad
6 Clip
panel starting at the bottom rear corner.
Withdraw the trim pad (see illustration).
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
16 Door - removal and refitting
Removal
11
15.4 Removing the trim pad
16.4a Front door upper hinge
16.4b Front door lower hinge
11•6 Bodywork and fittings
6 On the rear door, if applicable, remove the
lower hinge nuts and recover the hinge plate.
Remove the top hinge bolts, withdraw the
door and recover the upper hinge plate.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but locate
the hinges in their original positions. Check
that the front edge of the door is flush or
slightly recessed to the front wing, and if
necessary adjust the hinges.
17 Door lock - removal and
refitting
17.4 Door lock and control rods
Warning: On vehicles with
central locking, it is important to
first disconnect the battery
negative lead.
Removal
1 Remove the trim pad as described in
Section 15.
2 Carefully pull off the polythene sheet.
3 Unscrew the locking button, then refit the
handle and fully raise the window.
4 Unclip the control rods from the outer door
handle and private lock (see illustration).
5 Remove the cross-head screw from the
inner door handle, pull the control rod from
the clip and disconnect it from the lock (see
illustrations).
6 Remove the screw from the rear window
channel.
7 Remove the lock assembly screws and
withdraw the lock from the door aperture.
Unbolt the lock motor and disconnect the
operating rod, if fitted.
Refitting
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but adjust
the lock striker pin as follows.
9 Check that the latch disc is in the open
position, then loosen the striker pin nut and
position the pin so that the door can be
closed easily and is held firmly. Close the door
gently but firmly when making the adjustment.
10 Tighten the striker pin nut.
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
18 Door private lock - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the trim pad (Section 15).
2 Carefully pull off the polythene sheet.
3 Refit the handle and fully raise the window.
4 Working through the aperture, unclip the
control rod from the private lock and slide out
the retaining clip.
5 Withdraw the private lock from the outside
of the door.
17.5b Front door lock components
1 Private lock
2 Outer door handle
3 Locking button
17.5a Inner door handle and rod
4 Lock assembly
5 Interior door handle
19 Central locking door lock
motor - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the trim pad and, except for on the
tailgate, peel off the polythene sheet.
3 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug(s) to the
motor.
4 On the tailgate, remove the mounting
bracket screws, unclip the mounting bracket
from the private lock and unclip the operating
rod from the lock lever. Remove the private
lock then remove the mounting bracket and
motor, and unbolt the motor.
5 On the front or rear door, unbolt the motor
and disconnect the operating rod.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17.5c Rear door lock components
1 Outer handle assembly
2 Locking button
3 Lock assembly
4 Inner handle assembly
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
Refitting
21.3 Window regulator and glass
components
1
2
3
4
Window channel
Glass
Lower channel
Regulator
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but the
window channel should be positioned so that
the window movement is smooth.
24 Seats - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Ideally a special splined tool should be
obtained to remove the seat mounting
screws, but it may be possible to remove
them using an Allen key.
Front seat
2 Adjust the seat as necessary for access,
remove the rotating screws, and withdraw the
seat through the door aperture.
Rear seat
20 Interior rear view mirror general
Note: Ensure that both the mirror’s mounting
surface and the area on the glass, are
spotlessly clean before mounting.
1 The mirror is stuck to the windscreen by a
double-sided adhesive pad. Do not disturb it
unless absolutely necessary as it is very
difficult to achieve a reliable bond.
2 Clean both surfaces.
3 Remove the protective foil from one side of
the pad. Attach the pad to the mirror’s mount.
Remove the other foil. Line the mirror up to
the windscreen. Firmly press the mirror in
place.
21 Door glass - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Remove the trim pad as described in
Section 15.
2 Carefully pull off the polythene sheet.
3 Remove the cross-head screw retaining the
window channel guides, and door lock if fitted
(see illustration).
4 Remove the window regulator with
reference to Section 22.
5 Fully lower the glass to the bottom of the
door and release it from the channel.
6 Remove the outer weatherstrip, lift the rear
edge of the glass, and withdraw it from the
door.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, referring
to Section 22, if necessary.
22 Window regulator - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the trim pad as described in
Section 15.
2 Carefully pull off the polythene sheet.
3 Refit the handle and raise the window to 2
inches (50 mm) from the top. Wedge the
window in this position.
4 Remove the regulator securing screws and
the regulator channel securing screws.
5 Slide the regulator arms from the glass
lower channel, then withdraw the regulator
from the door aperture.
3 Unhook the parcel shelf support cords and
fold down the rear seat. Remove the shelf.
4 Detach the carpet from the seat, then
remove the mounting screws.
5 Withdraw the seat assembly through the
tailgate aperture.
Refitting
6 Refitting front or rear seats are a reversal of
removal, but before tightening the rear seat
mounting screws, secure the squabs to
ensure correct alignment.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
23 Electric window motor removal and refitting
Removal
1 Fully close the window then disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2 Remove the door trim panel and peel off the
polythene sheet.
3 Wedge the window in the closed position.
4 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug to the
motor.
5 Unscrew the window regulator bolts.
6 Remove the front window channel bolt,
unclip the top of the channel, and withdraw it
from the door.
7 Unbolt the motor and withdraw it from the
door together with the regulator (see
illustration).
11
23.7 Electric window motor components
1 Regulator mounting components
2 Electric motor mounting bolts
3 Window channel bolt
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
26.1a Bumper components
- early models
1 Front bumper (standard
and L models)
2 Front bumper (HLE and
1.3 models)
3 End capping
4 Rear bumper
26.1b Bumper assemblies on 1984-on models
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
25 Front seat release lever cable
(3-door models) - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Pull the plastic clip from the bottom of the
front seat backrest. If the cables on each side
have been broken, reach through the rear of
the seat and release the pawls from each side
so that the seat back may be folded forward.
2 On 1985-on models, prise out the plug and
unbolt the protection plate from the lever.
3 Carefully roll the seat covering up the
backrest sufficiently to disconnect the cable
from the lever and pawls.
Bumper cover (front)
Bumper reinforcement
Cover-to-reinforcement clip
Cover-to-wing screw
Washer
End fixing screw and washer
Front blanking plate
2 To remove a front bumper, it will probably be
necessary to remove the radiator (Chapter 3) to
gain access to the mounting bolts.
3 To remove either a front or rear bumper,
first remove the end cappings, which are each
retained in place by a single bolt.
4 Where applicable, disconnect the wiring
from the fog lamps, front sidelamps, and rear
number plate lamps.
5 Unscrew the mounting bolts and withdraw
the bumper from the car.
Refitting
6 Refitting is the reversal of removal.
27 Radiator grille (1984-on) removal and refitting
Refitting
Removal
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Note: Starting with 1983 models, the lower
fixing bolt on the rear bumper bracket on each
side is no longer fitted.
1 Open the bonnet.
2 Using a flat bladed screwdriver depress the
three plastic clips along the lower edge of the
grille, one after the other at the same time
pulling upward on the grille to release the
clips.
3 Pull the grille further up to release the three
upper clips then tilt the grille forward to
release it.
Removal
Refitting
1 The bumper is in sections for the earlier
models as shown. The outer cover on 1984on models are one piece (see illustrations).
4 Refit in reverse order ensuring that the
upper clips engage before pushing the grille
downward to engage the lower clips.
26 Bumpers - removal and
refitting
8 Bumper cover (rear)
9 Bumper reinforcement
10 Cover-to-reinforcement screw
11 Bumper-to-body nut
12 Washer
13 Distance piece
14 End fixing screw and washer
28 Headlamp surrounds (1984on) - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the radiator grille as described
earlier.
2 Undo the two screws securing each
surround to the front cross-rail.
3 Tilt the surround forward and lift upward to
disengage the lower clips and withdraw the
surrounds.
Refitting
4 Refit in reverse order.
29 Facia - removal and refitting
Removal
Pre 1985 models
1 Remove the instrument panel as described
in Chapter 12.
2 Open the glovebox, remove the two pivot
screws and bushes, and withdraw the
glovebox (see illustration).
3 Remove the two screws and pull back the
carpet from the top of the glove compartment
area.
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
29.2 Removing the glovebox
29.4 Facia retaining rod location
29.5 Disconnecting the vent duct tubes
29.6a Removing the ashtray
29.6b Removing the centre facia retaining
screw
29.7 Removing the facia
4 Unclip and remove the three facia retaining
rods (see illustration).
5 Disconnect the tubes from the vent ducts
(see illustration).
6 Prise out the ash tray and remove the
centre
facia
retaining
screw
(see
illustrations). Remove the remaining retaining
screws from under the shelf.
7 Pull the facia from the bulkhead, starting at
the top, and withdraw it through the
passenger door aperture (see illustration).
8 If necessary, prise out the speaker grille
and detach the demister ducts (1 screw each).
12 Prise out the plastic covers and remove
the upper screws. Also remove the screws
securing the facia to the heater.
13 Remove the facia side mounting screws.
14 Withdraw the facia rearwards, disconnect
the multi-plugs and aerial, and remove the
facia from the car.
7 Support the front of the subframe and
remove the front subframe mountings (see
illustration).
8 Withdraw the subframe from under the car,
and remove the upper suspension arms with
reference to Chapter 10.
1985-on models
9 Remove the steering column, as described
in Chapter 10.
10 Disconnect the choke cable from the
carburettor and pull it through the bulkhead.
11 Disconnect the heater control rods from
the flap levers.
30.6 A front subframe rear mounting
Refitting
15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30 Subframes - removal and
refitting
Front subframe
Removal
1 Remove the front Hydragas units as
described in Chapter 10.
2 Remove the engine and gearbox assembly,
and the engine mountings as described in
Chapter 2B.
3 Remove the steering rack and pinion as
described in Chapter 10.
4 Remove the swivel hub assemblies as
described in Chapter 10, together with the
driveshafts.
5 Remove the exhaust system, gearchange
rod and support stay, and disconnect the
shock absorber lower mountings.
6 Support the rear of the subframe and
remove the lower suspension arms, anti-roll
bar, and rear subframe mountings (see
illustration).
Refitting
9 Refitting is a reversal of removal (see
illustration).
Rear subframe
Removal
10 Chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the car and support on axle stands (see
“Jacking and vehicle support”) leaving a clear
space beneath the rear subframe.
11 Remove both rear wheels.
11
30.7 A front subframe front mounting
11•10 Bodywork and fittings
30.12 Handbrake cable end fitting and
clevis pin
30.9 Front subframe components
1 Front subframe
2 Tower bracket
3 Engine mounting
bracket
4 Front mounting
5 Rear mounting
12 Release the handbrake, then disconnect
the cable end fittings from the rear brake
levers by extracting the split pins and
removing the clevis pins (see illustration).
13 Cut the plastic straps holding the
handbrake cable to each rear radius arm (see
illustration).
14 Fit brake hose clamps to the flexible brake
hoses attached to the radius arms (see
illustration). If clamps are not available,
30.14 Clamp fitted to rear brake hose
30.17a Hydragas unit outer strap bolt
(arrowed)
30.17b Hydragas unit inner strap bolt
viewed from the spare wheel well
30.18 Unbolting the subframe from the
front mountings
30.13 Plastic strap (arrowed) holding
handbrake cable to rear radius arm
tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap onto a
piece of polythene to help reduce the loss of
fluid when the hoses are disconnected.
15 Working on each side in turn, unscrew the
rigid pipe union nuts, then unscrew the
locknuts and disconnect the flexible hoses
from the brackets on the radius arms.
16 Support the rear subframe on axle stands
or trolley jacks.
17 Unbolt the Hydragas straps from the
underbody. If preferred, the outer bolts only
can be unscrewed and the straps uncurled to
release the Hydragas units, otherwise
unscrew the inner strap mountings accessible
within the spare wheel well (see illustrations).
18 Unbolt the front of the subframe from the
mountings (see illustration).
19 Disconnect the handbrake cables from
the radius arm brackets by pulling out the
clips and sliding the inner cables through the
bracket slots (see illustrations).
30.19a Pull out the clip (arrowed) . . .
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
30.19b . . . and disconnect the handbrake
cable from the radius arm bracket
30.20 Releasing the equaliser from the
plastic clip on the front of the subframe
30.21a Pull out the clip (arrowed) . . .
30.21b . . . and withdraw the handbrake
cable ends through the access holes
30.22 Rear subframe removed from the
car
30.23 Hydragas Schrader valve and union
(arrowed)
20 Lower the rear subframe three or four
inches, then unclip the handbrake equaliser
from the plastic clip on the front of the
subframe (see illustration).
21 Disconnect the handbrake cables from
the front of the subframe by pulling out the
clips, removing the rubber covers and
withdrawing the cable ends through the
access holes (see illustrations).
22 Lower the rear subframe to the ground
and withdraw it from under the car (see
illustration).
23 To dismantle the radius arms and
Hydragas units, depressurise the units and
follow the procedure given in Chapter 10.
Unbolt the Schrader valve and union, and
unclip the fluid pipes (see illustration).
24 Unbolt the subframe mountings from the
body and examine them for deterioration and
damage (see illustrations). Renew them if
necessary.
Refitting
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal (see
illustration). Have the Hydragas units
pressurised by a Rover dealer, bleed the
brake hydraulic system and adjust the
handbrake cable, as detailed in Chapter 9.
Attach the handbrake cables to the radius
arms with new plastic straps.
30.24a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) . . .
30.25 Rear subframe components
1
2
3
4
30.24b . . . and remove the rear subframe
mounting
Rear subframe
Clamp plate
Mounting (with rubber centre section)
Hydragas unit shield
11
11•12 Bodywork and fittings
32.1 Front spoiler assembly on 1984-on
models
1 Front spoiler moulding
2 Screw
3 Locating nut
4 Washer
5 Front spoiler air duct
6 Wheel arch moulding (front)
7 Screw
8 Retaining nut
9 Washer
10 Screw
11 Wheel arch moulding (rear)
12 Rivet
31 Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components by the vehicle manufacturers
(e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases
major body panels), rectification of more
serious damage to such items has become a
matter of either entrusting repair work to a
specialist in this field, or renewing complete
components. Repair of such damage by the
DIY owner is not feasible owing to the cost of
the equipment and materials required for
effecting such repairs. The basic technique
involves making a groove along the line of the
crack in the plastic using a rotary burr in a
power drill. The damaged part is then welded
back together by using a hot air gun to heat
up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.
Any excess plastic is then removed and the
area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is
important that a filler rod of the correct plastic
is used, as body components can be made of
a
variety
of
different
types
(e.g.
polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.) can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions (or
applied direct from the tube), this can then be
used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
Standard paints, generally, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but special
paints to match any plastic or rubber finish
can be obtained from dealers. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit that consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but the method of use is to first apply the
pre-primer to the component concerned and
allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the
primer is applied and left to dry for about an
hour before finally applying the special
coloured top coat. The result is a correctly
coloured component where the paint will flex
with the plastic or rubber, a property that
standard paint does not normally possess.
32 Front spoiler - removal and
refitting
Note: On 1985-on models completely remove
the front bumper.
Removal
1 Remove the front bumper end caps, and
remove the end fastenings from the spoiler.
On 1985-on models completely remove the
front bumper (see illustration).
2 Remove the screws that secure the top and
bottom of the spoiler. Remove the spoiler and
(if wished) take off the air ducts.
33 Wheel arch finishers removal and refitting
Note: Raise and support the vehicle at the
quarter being worked on. Remove the wheel if
wished to improve access.
Front finisher
Removal
1 Remove the front bumper and cap. On
1985-on models completely remove the front
bumper, see previous section.
2 Remove the screws that secure the front
and rear of the finisher.
3 Remove the securing nuts from inside the
wheel arch.
4 The finisher can now be removed.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Fit the fastenings finger-tight at
first. Check the fit of the finisher before finally
tightening.
Rear finisher
Removal
6 Drill out the rivets that secure the finisher to
the wheel arch (where applicable).
7 Follow paragraphs 1 to 4 and remove the
finisher.
Refitting
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Fit all fastenings loosely at first
and check the spoiler alignment before
tightening.
8 Refit the finisher using the nuts and screws.
When alignment is correct, either drill new
rivet holes or use the existing ones to fit new
pop rivets.
Bodywork and fittings 11•13
34.1 Rear spoiler screw cover plug
34 Rear spoiler (MG and 1985on models) - removal and
refitting
securing screws from the top edge of the
spoiler.
5 Disconnect the washer tube from the
washer jet.
6 Remove the spoiler from the tailgate. Some
effort may be needed to free it from the sealer.
7 Remove the washer jet and the sealing
washers.
hinge tabs can be withdrawn from their
grommets in the middle pillar.
4 Detach the catch from the clip by drilling
out the hollow rivet.
5 Remove the frame and rubber surround by
drilling out the rivet that secures the frame to
the channel.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Use new rivets where these had to
be removed. In the absence of a riveting tool
for use with hollow rivets, it may be possible
to use a small nut and bolt instead. Lubricate
the hinge tabs with liquid soap or washing-up
liquid before inserting them in the grommets.
8 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Make sure that the spoiler is
correctly aligned before tightening the screws
and nuts (see illustration).
9 Note that replacement tailgates are not
supplied ready drilled to accept a spoiler.
Consult your Rover dealer concerning the
components and tools needed to prepare the
tailgate for spoiler fitting.
35 Opening rear quarterlight removal and refitting
Removal
1 Prise out the screw cover plugs from the
top edge of the spoiler (see illustration).
2 Disconnect the tailgate support struts from
the tailgate.
3 From inside the tailgate, remove the two
long securing screws (one below the strut
attachment, the other in the same position on
the opposite side) and the two securing nuts
(one above the strut attachment, and the
corresponding position opposite).
4 From outside the tailgate, remove the four
Removal
1 Protect the vehicle’s paintwork during the
following operations by covering the area
between the quarterlight hinges with masking
tape.
2 Open the quarterlight. Have an assistant
support the window whilst you remove the
screws that secure the catch to the rear pillar.
3 Carefully open the quarterlight until the
34.8 Rear spoiler attachment details
1
2
3
4
5
6
Spoiler
Screw cover
Screw
Nut
Tailgate strut
Screw
Refitting
36 Sunroof - general, removal
and refitting
General
1 A removable panel type sunroof is available
as an option on some models.
2 To open the sunroof, push the handle
forwards and upwards until it locks. Close by
reversing this operation.
Removal
3 To remove the sunroof, open it and then
disconnect the handle by squeezing its arms
together (see illustration). Unhook the safety
spring and lift the roof panel rearwards until
the two front lugs are free. The wind deflector
will automatically spring upwards.
Refitting
4 Refit the sunroof in the reverse order to
removal.
37 Remote control door mirror removal and refitting
Removal
1 Remove the adjusting knob.
2 Remove the inner cover then unbolt the
assembly and remove the seal.
Refitting
3 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11
36.3 Squeeze arms of sunroof catch
together at points arrowed to release
12•1
Chapter 12
Body electrical systems
Contents
Auxiliary circuits relay and circuit diode - description . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Central locking door lock motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .31
Cigar lighter - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Clock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Combination switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Courtesy light switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Direction indicator and hazard flasher system - general . . . . . . . . . . .3
Electric window switch and relay - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .8
Fuses - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlamps - alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Headlamps and headlamp bulbs - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .11
Headlamp washer system - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Horn - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .4
Instrument panel and instruments - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .14
Instrument panel switches - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Instrument panel printed circuit and voltage stabilizer - removal and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Lamp bulbs- renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Lighting switch - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Radio - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Radio/cassette player (electronic) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .30
Screen washer pumps (MG Turbo models) - removal and refitting . .24
Speedometer cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Tailgate wiper motor and gearbox - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .22
Trip computer - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Windscreen and tailgate window washers - general . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Windscreen washer tube (MG Turbo models) - removal and refitting .25
Windscreen wiper linkage - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . .21
Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Wiper blades - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience
Fairly easy, suitable
for beginner with
some experience
Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult, suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic
Very difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Specifications
Fuses
Fuse 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuse 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuse 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuse 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Line fuse, rear fog lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Line fuse, other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bulbs
Direction indicators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Footwell lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Glovebox lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Headlamps - Metro and Metro L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Headlamps - all other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Heated rear window switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Instrument panel lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition (no-charge) warning light (from VIN 388652) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Interior lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Loadspace lamp - Van . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Luggage area lamp - Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear fog lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear number plate lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reverse lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sidelamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Side repeater lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stop and tail lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Switch illumination lamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Current rated
17 amp
12 amp
8 amp
8 amp
15 amp
35 amp
Wattage
21
5
5
45/40
60/55
1.2 or 0.36
1.2 or 1.12
2
10 (bayonet), 5 (festoon)
5
6
21
6 (wedge), 10 (bayonet)
21
4 (bayonet), 5 (wedge)
5
21/5
0.75, 0.36 or 1.2
12
12•2 Body electrical systems
2.1a Fuse locations - early models
1 General description
Warning: Before carrying out
any work on the electrical
system, read through the
precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and in Chapter 5.
The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid type battery, which is charged by
the alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, alternator and
starter motor can be found in Chapter 5.
It should be noted that, prior to working on
any component in the electrical system, the
battery negative terminal should first be
disconnected, to prevent the possibility of
electrical short-circuits and/or fires.
3 In addition to the main fuses, in-line fuses
are provided to protect the following circuits:
Rear fog lamps line fuse is normally located
behind the switch panel.
Wiper, washer and heater motor lines fuses are
normally located in the engine compartment
on the right-hand wing valance.
4 Always renew a fuse with one of identical
rating, and never renew it more than once
without finding the source of the trouble
(usually a short circuit).
1985-on models
5 On 1985-on models the fusebox is located
below the right-hand side of the facia (see
2.1b Switch board and fuses - early
models
illustration). To remove the cover, twist the
retainers using a coin. Each fuse is colour
coded as follows:
3 amp Violet
10 amp Red
5 amp Tan
15 amp Blue
6 1985-on models are also fitted with three
fusible links in the first part of the battery “+”
cable. If a number of circuits fail to work, check
for battery voltage at the fusebox input side.
7 If a fusible link has failed, disconnect both
battery terminals. Carefully cut back the binding
and remove the sleeve from the “+” cable.
Unsolder the failed fusible link and renew it with
one of the same size. Cover the joints with
insulating tape and reconnect the battery.
2 Fuses - general
Early models
1 The fuses are located behind the switch
panel on the right-hand side of the dash
panel. Access to them, is gained by removing
the two screws from the front of the switch
panel, and pivoting the panel downwards (see
illustrations).
2 The fuse locations are numbered together
with the respective current rating, and the
circuits protected are as follows:
Fuse 1 17 amp Direction indicators, stop
lamps, reverse lamps,
heated rear window and
warning light
Fuse 2 12 amp Interior lamp, hazard
warning, lighter
Fuse 3 8 amp Sidelamps, tail lamps,
number plate lamps, panel
lamps, automatic gear
selector lamp (if applicable)
Fuse 4 8 amp Heater control, tailgate
wiper and washer motor
2.5 Inside view of the fusebox on 1985-on models
Circuit
Location
Heated rear window
A1
Electric front windows
A2
Central door locking
A3
Instruments
A4
Direction indicators, hazard lights
A5
Interior lamps
A6
Left-hand side and tail lights
B1
Right-hand side and tail lights, and number plate lights
B2
Left-hand dipped headlight
B3
Right-hand dipped headlight
B4
Left-hand main beam headlight
B6
Radio
C1
Heater blower
C2
Screen wiper and washers
C3
Rear foglamps
C4
Stop and reverse lights
C5
Rear wiper and washer
C6
Electric cooling fan
C7
Rating (amp)
15
30
15
3
10
10
5
5
10
10
10
3
10
15
5
10
15
15
Body electrical systems 12•3
unit. If the fuse has blown, a short circuit may
be the cause of the failure.
4 Ignition switch/steering column
lock - removal and refitting
The ignition switch is an integral part of the
steering column lock, and removal and
refitting procedures are given in Chapter 10.
5.4 Removing the right-hand steering
column cowl
5 Combination switches removal and refitting
Removal
3 Direction indicator and hazard
flasher system - general
1 The flasher units are located on the
fuseboard behind the switch panel on the
right-hand side of the dash panel.
2 To remove either one of them, disconnect
the battery negative lead, then remove the
two screws and pivot the switch panel
downwards. The direction indicator flasher
unit is located on the left of the fuseboard,
and the hazard flasher unit is located to the
right of it. Pull the required unit directly from
the fuseboard to remove it.
3 Should the flashers become faulty in
operation, check the bulbs for security and
make sure that the contact surfaces are not
corroded. Check all the relevant wiring and
terminals. If the flashers are still faulty and the
relevant fuse has not blown, renew the flasher
7.2a Removing the switch panel screws early models
Pre-1985 models
1 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the screws retaining the steering
column cowls together and to the outer
column bracket.
4 Separate the cowls and withdraw the
right-hand cowl over the wash/wipe switch
(see illustration).
5 Disconnect the multi-plug connectors to
the wash/wipe switch, direction indicator
switch and lighting switch.
6 Remove the left-hand cowl over the
direction indicator switch, leaving the choke
cable attached.
7 Loosen the securing screw, and withdraw
the combined switches from the upper column.
1985-on models
8 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).
7.2b Lowering the switch panel - early
models
6.6 Lighting switch and multi-plug
9 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
10 Remove the screws and withdraw the
steering column cowl lower half, followed by
the top half.
11 Lift the clips and pull the fibre optic guides
from each side of the switch.
12 Depress the retainers and withdraw the
switch. Disconnect the wiring multi-plug.
Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but after
tightening the switch assembly clamp screw,
position the striker bush with the arrow pointing
towards the direction indicator switch.
6 Lighting switch - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 10).
2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3 Remove the screws retaining the steering
column cowls together and to the outer
column bracket.
4 Separate the cowls and withdraw the
right-hand cowl over the wash/wipe switch.
5 Disconnect the multi-plug connector to the
lighting switch.
6 Remove the left-hand cowl over the
direction indicator switch. The lighting switch
can now be removed from the cowl by
depressing the plastic ears (see illustration).
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the switch is fully entered into the
cowl.
7 Instrument panel switches removal and refitting
Removal
7.2c Remove the instrument panel
surround upper screws . . .
7.2d . . . and lower screws . . .
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the two screws from the front of
the switch panel, and pivot the panel
downwards - on early models. Remove the
five screws, withdraw the surround and switch
panel - on later models. Disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs (see illustrations).
12
12•4 Body electrical systems
7.2e . . . then disconnect the multi-plugs
(later models)
7.3 Removing a switch from the
instrument panel surround
9.2 Removing the courtesy light switch
3 Depress the plastic ears of the relevant
switch, push it from the fuseboard, and
remove it from the switch panel (see
illustration).
fusebox, No 2 (centre) on the bottom row.
Access is gained by removing the fusebox
cover.
sidelamp and ignition are switched on at the
same time, the headlamp dip beams light at
one-sixth of their normal output.
Refitting
Removal
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Metro and Metro L models
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the switch is fully entered into the
panel.
8 Electric window switch and
relay - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Prise the switch from the door pocket and
disconnect the wiring; after noting the
terminal locations.
3 The electric window relay is located on the
9 Courtesy light switch - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Open the door and locate the courtesy light
switch on the front door pillar. Remove the
single screw and withdraw the switch (see
illustration).
3 Disconnect the supply wire and tie a loose
knot in it to prevent it dropping into the pillar.
Remove the switch.
Refitting
4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10 Auxiliary circuits relay and
circuit diode - description
10.1 Auxiliary circuits relay and fuse
1 With the bonnet open, pull the socket
connector from the rear of the headlamp, and
withdraw the rubber cover (see illustration).
2 Release the clip and remove the headlamp
bulb.
3 To remove the headlamp unit, first remove
the plastic radiator grille. Prise off the
mounting clips and lower the unit from the
adjustment screws (see illustration).
Metro HLE, 1.3S and 1.3 HLS models
4 With the bonnet open, pull the rubber cover
from the rear of the headlamp (see
illustration).
5 Pull the socket connector from the bulb
(see illustration).
6 Release the clip and remove the headlamp
bulb (see illustration).
7 To remove the headlamp unit, first remove
the plastic radiator grille.
8 Remove the sidelamp and direction
indicator bulbs.
1 An auxiliary circuits relay is fitted in the
wiring harness on all models, and is located
on the right-hand side wheel arch on righthand drive models and on the left-hand side
wheel arch on left-hand drive models. The
relay and line fuse are connected in the heater
and wiper circuit and protects the ignition
switch from overloading (see illustration).
2 All models are equipped with a circuit
junction diode to protect the various
instruments fitted with semi-conductors
devices.
11 Headlamps and headlamp
bulbs - removal and refitting
11.1 Headlamp bulb components for
Metro and Metro L models
Note: From late 1986, all models were fitted
with a headlamp dim-dip system which
prevents the vehicle from being driven with
the sidelamps only illuminated. A unit
mounted in the right-hand front of the engine
compartment controls a resistor fastened
behind the radiator grille and right-hand
headlamp surround, so that whenever the
11.3 Headlamp unit components for Metro
and Metro L models
Body electrical systems 12•5
11.4 Headlamp rear cover (1.3 HLS)
11.5 Removing the headlamp bulb socket
(1.3 HLS)
11.6 Removing the headlamp bulb
(1.3 HLS)
11.9 Removing the headlamp retaining
nuts (1.3 HLS)
11.10 Removing the headlamp unit
(1.3 HLS)
9 Unscrew the four mounting nuts, one of
which is located under the front wing (see
illustration). Remove the washers.
10 Withdraw the headlamp unit from the front
of the car (see illustration).
Refitting
11 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the lug on the bulb flange
engages with the notch on the reflector, and
adjust the headlamp alignment as described
in Section 13.
12 Do not touch the bulb glass; if touched,
clean it with methylated spirit.
12 Lamp bulbs - renewal
Note: Lamp bulbs should always be renewed
with ones of similar type and rating as listed in
the Specifications.
Sidelamps and front indicator
lamps
Metro and Metro L models
1 Remove the lens from the front bumper (2
screws) (see illustration).
2 Push and twist the bulbs to remove them.
Metro HLE, 1.3 S, and 1.3 HLS models
3 To remove the sidelamp bulb, pull back the
rubber cover and pull out the bulb holder (see
illustration). Push and twist the bulb or pull it
straight out (as applicable) to remove it.
4 To remove the indicator bulb, pull back the
rubber cover and turn the bulb holder
anti-clockwise from the headlamp reflector.
Push and twist the bulb to remove it (see
illustration).
12.1 Sidelamp and front indicator lamp components for Metro and Metro L models
Side repeater lamp
5 Reach up under the front wing, and pull the
bulb holder from the lamp body.
6 A wedge type bulb is fitted; pull it straight
from the bulb holder.
7 When refitting the bulb holder, support the
lamp body and lens from the outside. If the
lamp body is displaced, use adhesive to stick
it to the wing (see illustration).
12
12.3 Removing the front sidelamp bulb
holder (1.3 HLS)
12.4 Removing the front direction
indicator bulb (1.3 HLS)
12•6 Body electrical systems
12.7 The side repeater lamp being refitted
with adhesive
12.8 Removing the rear lamp cluster air
vent
12.9a Removing the screws . . .
12.9b . . . and rear lamp lens
12.10 Removing a stop light bulb
12.11 Rear number plate lamp
Rear lamp cluster
8 Open the tailgate. Remove the two screws
and the air vent (see illustration).
9 Remove the four screws and withdraw the
lamp lens (see illustrations).
10 Push and twist the faulty bulb to remove it
(see illustration). Note that the stop/tail bulb
has offset pins and can only be fitted in one
position.
Rear number plate lamp
11 Where twin lamps (secured by screws) are
fitted, press and twist the lamp lens to remove
it (see illustration). Where a single lamp is
fitted, squeeze together the grips and
withdraw the lamp, then twist the bulb holder
anti-clockwise to release it.
12 Where twin lamps are fitted the bulb is a
wedge type; pull it straight from the bulb
holder (see illustration). Where the single
12.12 Removing the rear number plate
lamp lens (lamp removed for clarity)
lamp is fitted, press in the bulb and twist it
anti-clockwise to remove it from the bulb
holder.
Rear foglamp
13 Remove the two screws and withdraw the
lens (see illustration).
14 Push and twist the bulb to remove it.
15 Note that the lens is tapered; the narrow
end must face the side of the car.
Interior lamp
16 Prise the lamp from the roof (see
illustration).
17 Where the lamp is part of the clock, prise
the bulb from its clips; where the bulb only is
fitted, press it in and twist it anti-clockwise to
release it.
18 Do not trap the wires when refitting the
lamp.
12.13 Removing the rear foglamp lens
Switch illumination
19 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20 Remove the switch panel, (Section 7).
21 Remove the bulb holder from the switch.
A wedge type bulb is fitted; pull it straight
from the bulb holder.
Instrument panel warning lamps
22 Remove the instrument panel as
described in Section 14.
23 Twist
the
relevant
bulb
holder
anti-clockwise and remove it.
24 A wedge type bulb is fitted; pull it straight
from the bulb holder.
Ignition warning light bulb
wattage
25 The wattage of the ignition warning light
bulb has been increased from 1.2W to 2W on
later models. This has the effect of lowering
12.16 Interior lamp
Body electrical systems 12•7
the engine speed at which the warning light
goes out (alternator cut-in speed).
26 If it is wished to lower the alternator cut-in
speed on earlier models, a 2W bulb may be
substituted for the existing one.
Luggage area/loadspace,
glovebox and footwell lamps
27 On Van models, squeeze together its
sides and unclip the loadspace lamp lens to
reach the bulb; on all other types gently prise
the lamp from its location (having first
removed any retaining screws).
28 The bulb is a festoon type; prise it out of
its clips.
Heater control illumination bulb removal and refitting
29 Carefully work the heater control lamp
free of its retainer.
30 Separate the bulbholder from the lens and
extract the bulb from the holder (see
illustration).
31 Fit a new bulb and reassemble the lamp,
then press it back into position.
Automatic transmission selector
illumination bulb - removal and
refitting
32 Unscrew the gear selector knob and lift
the cover off the selector.
33 Remove the selector slide to expose the
bulbholder (see illustration).
12.30 Heater control illumination bulb
34 Pull the bulb out of the holder and press in
a new one.
35 Reassemble the selector unit.
13 Headlamps - alignment
1 The headlamp alignment should be
checked every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12
months, whichever occurs first.
2 It is recommended that the alignment is
carried out by a Rover dealer using modern
beam setting equipment. However, in an
emergency, the following procedure will
provide an acceptable light pattern.
3 Position the car on a level surface with the
12.33 Automatic transmission
selector bulb renewal
1
2
3
4
Selector knob
Cover
Slide
Bulbholder
ride heights correct, the car normally laden
and the tyres correctly inflated, approximately
10 metres (33 feet) in front of, and at
right-angles to, a wall or garage door.
4 Draw a horizontal line on the wall or door at
headlamp centre height. Draw a vertical line
corresponding to the centre line of the car,
then measure off a point either side of this, on
the horizontal line, corresponding with the
headlamp centres.
5 Switch on the main beam and check that
the areas of maximum illumination coincide
with the headlamp centre marks on the wall. If
not, turn the plastic knobs located on the rear
of the headlamps; turn both knobs to raise or
lower the beam, and one knob (either will do)
to move the beam horizontally.
14 Instrument panel and
instruments - removal and
refitting
Note: Later models may be fitted with
instrument panels made by Veglia instead of
by Smiths. The two makes can be
distinguished without dismantling. The
mileage recorder window edges are
chamfered on the Smiths panel, but square on
the Veglia panel. Instruments and components
are not interchangeable between the two
makes. It is therefore important to specify
which is required if spare parts are needed.
Because of the different internal design of its
instruments, the Veglia panel is not fitted with
a voltage stabiliser.
Removal
Early models, except MG
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Prise out the speedometer cable grommet
from the bulkhead, and pull out the cable to
release it from the speedometer head.
3 Remove the switch panel, described in
Section 7. Pull the pivots from the supports
and allow the panel to hang by its harness.
4 Unscrew the nuts securing the instrument
panel housing to the facia. Withdraw the
housing and at the same time disconnect the
multi-plug connectors from the printed circuit
board (see illustrations).
14.4a Exploded view of
instrument panel less printed
circuit
1 Case
2 Warning light panel
3 Mask
4 Window
5 Surround
12
14.4b Disconnecting the instrument panel
multi-plugs
12•8 Body electrical systems
14.5a Removing a bulb holder from the
instrument panel - early model
5 From the rear of the housing, twist the three
upper bulb holders, anti-clockwise and
remove them (see illustrations).
6 Remove the screws securing the three
instrument panel sections, noting that the
centre section screws are shorter (see
illustration).
7 Carefully withdraw the instrument panel
sections and printed circuit, taking care not to
damage the latter (see illustration).
8 Each individual instrument can now be
removed by removing the nuts or screws
securing it to the panel. On 1.3 models, the
digital clock can be removed from the
tachometer by loosening the dial screws and
withdrawing the clock reset control. If
necessary, remove the front panel (see
illustration).
Pre-1985 MG Turbo models
9 Remove the instrument panel (as from
paragraph 1 to 4, this section).
14.5b Rear view of the instrument panel - early model
1 Panel illumination lamps
2 Warning lamps
3 Voltage stabilizer connections
10 Undo the securing screws to release the
instrument cluster from its housing. Release
the clips to separate the instruments from the
lens unit. Do not touch the instrument faces
with the fingers.
11 If it is wished to remove the temperature
gauge, the speedometer must be removed
first.
12 When removing the tachometer, first
release it from the casing, then extract the
4 Printed circuit
5 Instrument panel sections
boost gauge and unplug the printed circuit.
13 If it is wished to remove the fuel gauge,
the tachometer must first be removed as
described above.
14 With all the instruments removed, the
printed circuit may be renewed if wished, as
described in Section 15.
Note: The higher wattage of the ignition
warning light bulb - this should be
distinguished by having a red holder.
1985-on models
14.6 Removing an instrument panel
section screw - early model
14.7 Removing the instrument panel
sections - early model
14.8 Removing the instrument panel front
14.17 Squeeze the speedometer cable
connector to release it
15 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
16 Remove the switch panel, as described in
Section 7, sufficiently to disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs. Remove the panel.
17 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4), then
prise out the speedometer cable grommet.
Disconnect the cable by pulling it from the
speedometer. If the cable is tight, remove the
fusebox cover, reach up behind the
instrument panel and squeeze the outside of
the connector to release it (see illustration).
18 Remove the remaining screws, taking
care not to drop them (see illustration).
14.18 Instrument panel side screws
(arrowed)
Body electrical systems 12•9
14.19a Disconnecting the multi-plugs
14.19b Removing the instrument panel
14.19c Front view of the 1985-on
instrument panel
14.19d Rear view of the 1985-on
instrument panel
14.20a Removing a panel light bulb
14.20b Removing a warning light bulb
19 Move the panel down and rotate it to
release it from the facia. Disconnect the wiring
multi-plugs and withdraw the instrument
panel through the steering wheel (see
illustrations).
20 The warning and illumination bulbs may
be removed by twisting the bulbholder anticlockwise, but note that the “no-charge” bulb
in the red bulbholder is the only bulb which
can be separated from its holder (see
illustrations).
21 The multi-function unit incorporating the
fuel and temperature gauges may be removed
after withdrawing the cover (3 nuts) and unit
retaining nuts (see illustration).
22 To remove the printed circuit, first remove
all the bulbs and the multi-function unit. Peel
off the tape and remove the connector pegs.
23 To remove the speedometer head,
remove the illumination bulb holders and the
tape from the printed circuit. Free the wires
and remove the shroud and window
assembly. Release the face plate from the
case and remove the trip reset control.
Remove the screws and withdraw the
speedometer head.
24 Removal of the tachometer is similar to
the procedure for the speedometer head, but
the fuel and temperature gauges must first be
removed.
Refitting
25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
make sure that the reset controls, where
fitted, pass through the holes in the
instrument panel window. When fitting the
multifunction unit, if applicable, tighten the
nuts evenly to ensure good contact with the
printed circuit.
14.21 Component location on the instrument panel fitted to 1985-on models
14.20c Removing the “no-charge” warning
light bulb
1
2
3
4
5
6
Printed circuit
Retaining pegs
Illumination bulbs
Speedometer head screws
Multi-plug connectors
Warning light bulbs
7 No-charge warning light bulb
8 Fuel and temperature gauge nuts
9 Tachometer nuts
10 Multi-function unit
11 Multi-function unit nuts
12
12•10 Body electrical systems
15.3 Extracting the voltage stabilizer
15 Instrument panel printed
circuit and voltage stabilizer
- removal and refitting
16.5 Removing the cigar lighter
16 Cigar lighter - removal and
refitting
Removal
Removal
1 Remove the instrument panel as described
in Section 14.
2 Remove all the bulb holders from the rear of
the housing.
3 Pull the voltage stabilizer from the blade
connectors (see illustration).
4 Remove the cross-head screws and
withdraw the blade connectors from the
printed circuit.
5 Unscrew the retaining nuts and prise out
the plastic retainers from the printed circuit.
6 Where a digital clock is fitted in the base of
the tachometer, remove the brass screw, lift
the printed circuit, then refit the screw to
retain the clock.
7 Remove the remaining screws and
withdraw the printed circuit.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to Section 14 as necessary.
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 If a radio is fitted, disconnect the supply
and earth leads, and the aerial. Remove the
rear mounting bolt and two side screws, and
place the radio to one side.
3 Remove the cigar lighter button.
4 Pull the supply wire from the cigar lighter
terminal.
5 Unscrew and remove the cigar lighter and
earth lead (see illustration).
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
17 Horn - removal and refitting
Removal
1 The single-note horn is located in the
engine compartment on the left-hand side
(see illustration).
2 To remove the horn, first disconnect the
battery negative lead.
3 Disconnect the wires from the horn
terminals.
4 Unbolt the mounting bracket and remove
the horn.
5 If the horn emits an unsatisfactory sound, it
may be possible to adjust it, assuming the
17.1 Horn location
internal circuit and contact points are in good
condition. The adjustment is best made with
the horn mounted on the car. Turn the
hexagon head (Mixo type) or screw (Lucas
type) until the best sound is achieved (see
illustration).
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
18 Speedometer cable - removal
and refitting
Removal
1 Prise the speedometer cable grommet from
the engine compartment side of the bulkhead.
2 On 1985-on models, the fusebox cover and
if necessary, the air cleaner.
3 Pull the cable straight out of the bulkhead
to release it from the speedometer head (see
illustration).
4 Unclip the cable from the swivel clip.
5 Remove the windscreen washer bottle and
place it to one side.
6 Unscrew the knurled nut and pull the cable
from the pinion housing on the left-hand side
of the gearbox.
7 Withdraw the speedometer cable, and if
necessary remove the inner cable and
grommet. If either the inner or outer cable is
damaged or worn, renew the complete
assembly.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
19 Wiper blades - renewal
17.5 Alternative types of horn
1 Mixo 2 Lucas
18.3 Removing the speedometer cable
from the head
1 The wiper blades should be removed when
they no longer clean the windscreen or
tailgate window effectively.
2 Lift the wiper arm away from the
windscreen or tailgate window.
3 Lift the spring retainer, then separate the
blade from the wiper arm (see illustration).
4 Insert the new blade into the arm and make
sure that the spring retainer is engaged
correctly.
Body electrical systems 12•11
the battery and switch on the ignition (wiper
switch “off”) to set the motor in the “parked”
position. Fit the crank lever horizontally and
facing the driver’s side of the car. Lubricate
the linkage bushes, crankpin and linkages
with a molybdenum disulphide based grease.
21 Windscreen wiper linkage removal, overhaul and refitting
Removal
19.3 Disconnecting the windscreen wiper
blade
20 Windscreen wiper motor removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4).
3 Extract the clip from the linkage pivot on
the motor crank lever.
4 Remove the bushes, washer and links from
the crankpin.
5 Unscrew the nut and remove the washer
and crank lever from the motor spindle.
6 Unscrew the motor mounting screws and
disconnect the wiring multi-plug.
7 Disconnect the earth lead and withdraw the
wiper motor.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but before
fitting the crank lever, temporarily reconnect
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the air cleaner (Chapter 4).
3 Lift the hinged covers on the wiper arms
and unscrew the nuts (see illustration). Prise
the wiper arms from the spindles with a
screwdriver.
4 From each pivot housing, unscrew the nut
and remove the washer and spacer.
5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug and the
earth lead.
6 Slide the rubber mounting from the bottom
of the bracket, noting which slot engages the
bracket.
7 Remove the wiper motor and linkage
together from the car.
Overhaul
8 Extract the clips from the crankpin and
pivot arms, and remove the links, bushes and
washers, noting their relative positions.
9 Remove the wiper motor as described in
Section 20.
10 Remove the bottom spacers from the
pivot housings, drill out the rivets, and remove
the housings from the bracket.
21.3 Unscrewing the wiper arm spindle
nut
11 Press the bushes out of the links.
12 Examine the bushes and pivot housings
for wear, and if worn excessively, obtain a kit
of bushes and clips.
Refitting
13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
the following additional points:
a) Lubricate the pivots and bushes with a
molybdenum disulphide based grease.
b) Press the bushes into the links in the
direction as shown (see illustration),
note that the rounded ends of the links
must face outwards.
c) Fit the pivot housings (with the longer
lever to the driver’s side of the bracket),
using new rivets.
d) Tighten the pivot housing nuts to 11.5 lbf
ft (17Nm).
e) With the motor in the parked-position, fit
the wiper arms to the spindles so that the
blades are parallel to the lower edge of
the windscreen.
22 Tailgate wiper motor and
gearbox - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Lift the hinged cover on the wiper arm and
unscrew the nut. Prise the wiper arm from the
spindle with a screwdriver, together with the
spacer.
3 Unscrew the nut and remove the washer
and spacer from the motor spindle.
4 Prise the trim panel from the tailgate inner
panel using a wide-bladed screwdriver (see
illustration).
21.13 Windscreen wiper motor and linkage
1
2
3
4
Wiper motor
Crank lever
Clip
Mounting bracket
5
6
7
8
Link
Bush
Washer
Pivot housing
12
22.4 Removing a tailgate trim panel
fastener
12•12 Body electrical systems
22.11a Tailgate wiper motor and gearbox components
1 Tailgate wiper motor
2 Wiper gearbox
3 Through-bolt
22.6 Tailgate wiper motor and gearbox
5 Disconnect the earth lead and the wiring
multi-plug.
6 Remove the mounting bracket screws, and
withdraw the wiper motor and gearbox (see
illustration).
7 Note the location of the wires in the
multi-plug, then depress the tags and remove
the pins.
8 Remove the insulating sleeve, and detach
the pins from the wires.
9 Unscrew the through-bolts and withdraw
the motor from the gearbox.
10 The motor and gearbox can be renewed
separately if necessary.
Refitting
11 Reassembly and refitting are a reversal of
the removal procedure, but note the following
additional points:
a) Make sure that the lug on the motor is
engaged with the notch on the gearbox
(see illustration).
b) Adjust the armature endfloat by loosening
the locknut on the gearbox, turning the
screw to eliminate the endfloat, then
loosening the screw very slightly to give a
small endfloat. Tighten the locknut.
c) Before fitting the wiper arm, switch on the
ignition and operate the motor to set the
spindle in the “parked” position. Fit the
wiper arm to the spindle so that the blade
is parallel to the lower edge of the tailgate
window.
d) Note that the tailgate washer bottle and
motor are located on the left-hand rear
inner panel (see illustration).
23 Windscreen and tailgate
window washers - general
1 On all MG Turbo models, a combined
reservoir is mounted in the left-hand rear of
the luggage compartment, with two remote
pumps located on the inner panel. The two
identical pumps are connected to a single
tube leading from the reservoir, and
incorporate non-return valves in the outlet
tubes to the windscreen and tailgate window.
2 For non-Turbo models, separate reservoirs
for the windscreen and tailgate window are
fitted to early models, being located on the
left-hand front of the engine compartment and
the left-hand rear of the luggage
compartment. From VIN 556719, models with
front and rear washers have a combined
reservoir in the left-hand front of the engine
compartment. Models with windscreen
washers only have a single reservoir with an
integral pump, located on the left-hand front
of the engine compartment (except MG Turbo
models). The integral pump is retained in the
reservoir by a rubber grommet (see
illustration).
24 Screen washer pumps (MG
Turbo models) - removal and
refitting
Removal
22.11b Tailgate washer bottle and motor
1 Both the windscreen and the tailgate
washer pumps are located at the rear of MG
Turbo models, and they share a common
reservoir (see illustration).
2 Open the tailgate, remove the washer
reservoir and release the left-hand quarter
trim.
3 Identify the pump to be removed. (The
windscreen washer feed tube is blue).
Unscrew the pump mounting screws and
disconnect the tubes and wires from the
pump. Be prepared for some fluid spillage.
4 Release the pump bracket from the
mounting rubber, but do not remove the
bracket from the pump. The pump cannot be
overhauled, and should be renewed if
defective.
Refitting
5 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure. Note the following points:
a) A new pump will need to be pop-riveted
to the mounting rubber.
b) The pump inlet is marked “-” and the
outlet “+”.
c) The non-return valve outlet is marked “-”.
6 Check for correct operation on completion.
25 Windscreen washer tube (MG
Turbo models) - removal and
refitting
Removal
1 Open the tailgate and release the left-hand
quarter trim.
2 Disconnect the windscreen washer tube
(the blue one) from the non-return valve.
3 Secure a length of stout string to the tube,
using sticky tape or some similar means. The
string must be longer than the tube.
Body electrical systems 12•13
23.2 Washer reservoir and pumps Non-Turbo models
1 Reservoir (single)
2 Grommet
3 Pump (windscreen)
4 Jet
5 Reservoir (single)
6 Filter
7 Cap
8 Pump (tailgate)
9 Jet
10 Reservoir (combined)
11 Non-return valve
12 Jet
13 Cap
14 Pump (two integral)
15 Grommet
16 Connector
17 Jet (top fitting)
18 Jet (bottom fitting)
24.1 Washer reservoir and pumps MG Turbo models
1
2
3
4
5
Windscreen washer pump
Tailgate washer pump
Inlet pipe
Outlet pipe
Non-return valve
4 Open the bonnet and extract the
windscreen washer jet. Disconnect the tube
from the jet and from any clips. Disconnect
the battery earth lead.
5 Partially withdraw the facia, as described in
Chapter 11, to gain access to the aperture in
the left-hand front pillar. Pull the tube through
from the engine compartment, then pull the
other end of the tube (with string attached)
through from the rear of the car.
6 Remove the string from the old tube and
secure it to the new tube. Carefully draw the
new tube through from the front to the back of
the car.
7 Remove the string and connect the tube to
the non-return valve.
8 Feed the tube into the engine compartment,
refitting the grommet if this has become
displaced. Connect the tube to the jet and
engage any clips.
Refitting
9 Refit the disturbed trim, reconnect the
battery and check the windscreen washer for
correct operation. Remember that it will take a
second or two for the pump to fill the new tube.
12
12•14 Body electrical systems
26.3 Headlamp washer system
components
1
2
3
4
Reservoir
Pump
Relay
Overrider with jet
26 Headlamp washer system general
1 A headlamp washer system is fitted to
certain models, according to territory and trim
level specified.
2 The system is similar in principle to the
familiar screen washer systems, but a relay is
included in the headlamp washer pump circuit
so that the pump does not operate when the
lights are not in use.
3 The components of the headlamp washer
system are as shown (see illustration). The
reservoir is mounted under the left-hand wing,
and the jets are positioned in the bumper
overriders.
4 No specific dismantling or overhaul
information is available at the time of writing.
The pump cannot be repaired, and must be
renewed complete if defective. It is a push fit
into a grommet at the base of the reservoir.
27 Trip computer - general
1 A factory-fitted trip computer is available as
an optional extra on certain models. The
computer receives information from a speed
transducer in the speedometer cable and
from a fuel flow transducer in the fuel supply
line. From these data and from its internal
clock, the computer is able to display
information relating to journey time, average
speed, average and instantaneous fuel
consumption and distance covered.
2 Very little is possible for the home
mechanic by way of testing or repair of the
computer and its transducers. In the event of
malfunction, check first that all electrical
connections are secure and that the battery is
fully charged.
3 A faulty speed transducer (or speedometer
cable) can be deduced if the trip computer
fails to display distance (DIST) information.
Obviously this will also affect the fuel
consumption (INST and AVE) functions, but so
will a faulty fuel transducer.
4 A faulty fuel transducer can be deduced if
the fuel used (FUEL) information is grossly
incorrect.
5 Testing of suspect transducers. or of the
computer itself, is by substitution of a known
good unit. No repair is possible.
28 Clock - removal and refitting
Removal
Pre-1985 MG Turbo models
1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.
2 Remove the ashtray away from the facia.
3 Carefully prise the clock mounting out of
the facia and disconnect the multi-plug.
4 Press the retaining lugs to release the clock
from its mountings.
29 Radio - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Disconnect the supply and earth wires from
the radio, leaving the in-line fuse and choke
intact.
3 Remove the aerial from the radio.
4 Unscrew the rear mounting bolt and two
side screws and withdraw the radio from the
car (see illustration).
1985-on models
5 Where the clock is mounted on the facia,
prise it out and disconnect the multi-plug.
Reverse the procedure when refitting.
6 Where the clock is mounted in the
overhead console, prise out the interior lamp
then remove the screws and lower the
console. Disconnect the multi-plug and
remove the clock.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
29.4 Removing the radio
Body electrical systems 12•15
5 Using a small hooked instrument (a length
of welding rod will do), pull out the bottom of
the radio grille and remove it.
6 Remove the cross-head screws and
withdraw the speaker and wiring from the
facia.
7 If necessary, remove the radio earth wire
from the speaker compartment.
Refitting
8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30 Radio/cassette player
(electronic) - removal and
refitting
Note: The radio/cassette player is retained
with DIN clips and it is necessary to make a
tool using dowel rod, but the ends of the rods
must be shaped to contact the clips.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead. If the
unit has a security code, temporarily
de-activate the code and re-activate it when
the battery is re-connected; refer to the
instructions and code supplied with the unit.
2 Prise the plastic covers from each side of
the unit (see illustration).
3 Insert the special tool rods into the holes
until they engage the clips (see illustration).
4 Press the ends of the rods outwards so that
the clips are compressed, then pull out the
unit from the facia.
5 Disconnect the multi-plug and aerial and
remove the tool rods.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but make
sure that the rubber support pads are in place
before pushing the unit into the facia until the
clips are engaged.
31 Central locking door lock
motor - removal and refitting
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2 Remove the trim pad and, except for on the
tailgate, peel off the polythene sheet.
3 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug(s) to the
motor.
4 On the tailgate, remove the mounting
bracket screws, unclip the mounting bracket
from the private lock and unclip the operating
rod from the lock lever. Remove the private
lock then remove the mounting bracket and
motor, and unbolt the motor.
5 On the front or rear door, unbolt the motor
and disconnect the operating rod.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.
30.2 Radio/cassette player removal sequence
1 Plastic cover
2 Radio/cassette
player
3 Tool SMD 4091
4 Clip
12
30.3 Tool SMD 4091 for removal of the
radio/cassette player
12•16 Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams 1 and 2. Not all items are fitted to all models
1 Rear fog guard lamps
2 Front fog lamps (if fitted)
3 Panel illumination lamp
4 Cigar lighter illumination
5 LH tail lamp
6 Number plate lamp
7 RH tail lamp
8 LH sidelamp
9 RH sidelamp
10 Headlamp dipped beams
11 Main beam warning lamp
12 Headlamp main beams
13 Front fog lamp relay (if fitted)
14 Horn
15 Starter motor
16 Starter motor solenoid
17 Rear fog guard lamp switch and warning light
19 Headlamp dipswitch
20 Headlamp flasher switch
21 Horn push
22 Front fog lamp switch (if fitted)
23 Fuses
24 Line fuses
25 Main lighting switch
26 Battery
27 Auxiliary circuits relay
28 Rear screen wash/wipe switch (if fitted)
29 Windscreen wash/wipe switch
30 Ignition/starter switch
31 Headlamp washer relay (if fitted)
32 Heater motor
33 Rear screen washer motor (if fitted)
34 Windscreen wiper motor
35 Cigar lighter
36 Clock
37 Headlamp washer motor
38 Rear screen washer motor
39 Windscreen washer motor
40 Radio (if fitted)
41 Interior light and switch
42 Heater motor switch
43 Door switches
44 Brake failure warning lamp relay
45 Alternator
46 Hazard warning flasher unit
47 Hazard switch and warning light
49 Ballast resistor cable
50 Direction indicator flasher unit
51 Heated rear screen switch and warning lamp
53 Brake fluid level sensor
54 Direction indicator switch
55 Brake failure warning light
56 Reversing lamp switch
57 Stop-lamp switch
58 Voltage stabilizer
59 Brake pad wear warning light
60 Ignition warning light
61 Tachometer (if fitted)
62 Ignition coil
63 Brake pad wear sensors
64 Choke warning light
65 Oil pressure warning light
66 Handbrake warning light
67 Seat belt warning light
68 Fuel gauge
69 Water temperature gauge
70 Induction heater and thermostat (if fitted)
71 Suction chamber heater (if fitted)
72 Direction indicator repeater lamps
73 RH front indicator lamp
74 RH rear indicator lamp
75 Indicator warning light
76 LH rear indicator lamp
77 LH front indicator lamp
78 Heated rear screen
79 Reversing lamps
80 Gearbox selector panel illumination (Automatics only)
81 Stop-lamps
82 Choke warning light switch
83 Oil pressure light switch
84 Handbrake warning light switch
85 Passenger seat switch
86 Passenger seat belt switch
87 Driver’s seat belt switch
88 Fuel gauge tank unit
89 Water temperature transducer
90 Radiator cooling fan
91 Radiator cooling fan thermostat
92 Distributor
93 Heater control illumination
94 Panel switch illumination
Cable colour code
B
G
K
Black
Green
Pink
LG
N
O
Light green
Brown
Orange
P
R
S
Purple
Red
Slate
U
W
Y
Blue
White
Yellow
Symbols used in wiring diagrams
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fuse board printed circuit
Instrument printed circuit
Sealed joint
Instrument printed circuit connector
Fuse board printed circuit connector
Other connector
When fitted
Component earthed via mounting
Component earthed via cable
Wiring diagrams 12•17
WD
Diagram 1: Wiring diagram for right-hand drive models 1980 to 1982
12•18 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 2: Wiring diagram for left-hand drive models 1980 to 1983
Wiring diagrams 12•19
Diagram 4: Supplementary wiring diagram for load area
light. Use in conjunction with Diagrams 1 or 2
18
41
43
52
Load area light
Passenger interior light and switch
Door switches
Load area light switch
Diagram 3: Supplementary wiring diagram for alternative
brake failure warning system.
Use in conjunction with Diagrams 1 or 2
16
30
44
53
55
Starter motor solenoid
Ignition/starter switch
Double blocking diode
Brake fluid level switch
Brake failure warning light
WD
12•20 Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams 5 and 6. Not all items are fitted to all models
1 Rear foglamp(s)
2 Foglamps *
3 Cigar lighter illumination lamp
4 LH tail lamp
5 Rear foglamp switch and warning lamp
6 Foglamps switch and warning lamp*
7 Front foglamps relay *
8 Auxiliary circuits relay
9 Heater motor
10 Rear screen wash/wipe switch
11 Number plate illumination lamp(s)
12 RH tail lamp
13 LH sidelamp
14 R H sidelamp
15 Headlamp dip beam
16 Main beam warning lamp
17 Headlamp main beam
18 Horn(s)
19 Windscreen wash/wipe switch
20 Headlamp dip switch
21 Lighting switch
22 Headlamp flash switch
23 Horn push
24 Heater control illumination
25 Switch illumination lamp(s)
26 Starter motor
27 Starter solenoid
28 Battery
29 Headlamps washer relay
30 Headlamps wash high-pressure motor
31 Heater motor switch
32 Rear screen washer motor
33 Rear screen wiper motor
34 Direction indicator/hazard flasher unit
35 Windscreen washer motor
36 Windscreen wiper motor
37 Fuel pump
38 Fuel pump protection relay *
39 Radio or radio/cassette unit
40 Cigar lighter
41 Interior lamp(s)
42 Interior lamp door switch
43 Load space lamp switch
44 Load space lamp
45 Clock
46 Ignition/starter switch
47 Carburettor vent valve *
48 Double diode
49 Alternator
50 Hazard warning switch
51 Ballast resistor cable $
52 Direction indicator switch
53 Heated rear screen switch and warning lamp
54 Brake fluid level sensor switch
55 Direction indicator warning lamp
56 RH rear direction indicator lamp
57 Direction indicator repeater lamps
58 RH front direction indicator lamp
59 LH rear direction indicator lamp
60 Panel illumination lamp(s)
61 LH front direction indicator lamp
62 Heated rear screen
63 Brake failure warning lamp
64 Reverse lamp switch
65 Reverse lamp(s)
66 Stoplamp switch
67 Stoplamps
68 Choke warning lamp
69 Choke warning lamp switch
70 Oil pressure warning lamp or indicator
71 Oil pressure switch
72 Handbrake warning lamp
73 Handbrake warning lamp switch
74 Voltage stabiliser
75 Fuel level indicator
76 Fuel level indicator tank unit
77 Water temperature indicator
78 Water temperature transducer
79 Brake pad wear warning lamp
80 Ignition no charge warning lamp
81 Tachometer
82 Ignition coil
83 Radiator cooling fan motor
84 Radiator cooling fan thermostat
85 Ignition module *
86 Distributor
87 Brake pad wear sensor
88 Valve solenoid *
89 Electronic control unit *
90 Boost gauge *
91 Automatic gearbox selector indicator lamp
92 Anti-run-on valve
Aa Line fuses
Bb Fusebox printed circuit
$ Non-Turbo models
* Turbo models
Cable colour code
B
G
K
Black
Green
Pink
LG
N
O
Light green
Brown
Orange
P
R
S
Purple
Red
Slate
U
W
Y
Blue
White
Yellow
Symbols used in wiring diagrams
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fuse board printed circuit
Instrument printed circuit
Sealed joint
Instrument printed circuit connector
Fuse board printed circuit connector
Other connector
When fitted
Component earthed via mounting
Component earthed via cable
Wiring diagrams 12•21
WD
Diagram 5: Wiring diagram for 1983/84 models (except Turbo)
12•22 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 6: Wiring diagram for 1983/84 Turbo models
Wiring diagrams 12•23
Key to wiring diagrams 7 and 8. Not all items are fitted to all models
1 Alternator
3 Battery
4 Starter solenoid
5 Starter motor
6 Lighting switch
7 Headlamp dip switch
8 Headlamp dip beam
9 Headlamp main beam
11 RH side lamp
12 LH side lamp
15 Number plate illumination lamp(s)
16 Stop lamp(s)
17 RH tail lamp
18 Stop lamp switch
19 Fusebox
20 Interior lamp
21 Interior lamp door switch
22 LH tail lamp
23 Horn
24 Horn push
25 Direction indicator flasher unit
26 Direction indicator switch
28 RH front direction indicator lamp
29 LH front direction indicator lamp
30 RH rear direction indicator lamp
31 LH rear direction indicator lamp
32 Heater motor switch
33 Heater motor
35 Fuel level indicator tank unit
37 Windscreen wiper motor
38 Ignition/starter switch
39 Ignition coil
40 Distributor
41 Fuel pump *
42 Oil pressure switch
45 Headlamp flash switch
47 Water temperature transducer
49 Reverse lamp switch
50 Reverse lamp(s)
56 Clock $
57 Cigar lighter
60 Radio or radio cassette unit
76 Automatic gearbox selector indicator lamp $
77 Windscreen washer motor
82 Switch illumination lamp(s)
110 Direction indicator repeater lamps
115 Heated rear screen switch
116 Heated rear screen
118 Windscreen washer/wiper switch
150 Heated rear screen warning lamp
152 Hazard warning lamp
153 Hazard warning switch
165 Handbrake warning lamp switch
178 Radiator cooling fan thermostat
179 Radiator cooling fan motor
182 Brake fluid level switch
208 Cigar lighter illumination lamp
211 Heater control illumination
212 Choke warning lamp switch
216 Window lift switch
220 Window lift motor
231 Headlamp relay
240 Heated rear screen relay
246 Glovebox illumination lamp
247 Glovebox illumination switch
270 Rear screen wiper motor
271 Rear screen washer motor
286 Fog rearguard lamp switch
287 Fog rearguard warning lamp
288 Fog rearguard lamp(s)
296 Fuel pump relay *
298 Windscreen wiper delay
300 Ignition switch relay
314 Header console
326 Brake pad wear sensor
336 Speaker
342 Rear screen wiper switch
343 Rear screen wash switch
344 Door lock motor
345 Door lock control unit
347 Electronic control unit
349 Turbo boost gauge *
350 Control valve solenoid *
351 Load space lamp/switch
363 Carburettor vent valve
364 Window lift relay
389 Column switch illumination
396 Footwell illumination
397 Fusebox illumination
403 Auxiliary ignition relay
413 Fusible links
428 Mechanical instruments
$ Non-Turbo models
* Turbo models
Cable colour code
B
G
K
Black
Green
Pink
LG
N
O
Light green
Brown
Orange
P
R
S
Purple
Red
Slate
U
W
Y
Blue
White
Yellow
Symbols used in wiring diagrams
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fuse board printed circuit
Instrument printed circuit
Sealed joint
Instrument printed circuit connector
Fuse board printed circuit connector
Other connector
When fitted
Component earthed via mounting
Component earthed via cable
WD
12•24 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 7: Wiring diagram for 1985 models (except Turbo)
Wiring diagrams 12•25
WD
Diagram 8: Wiring diagram for 1985 Turbo models
12•26 Wiring diagrams
Key to wiring diagrams 9 to 12 (inclusive). Not all items are fitted to all models
1 Alternator
2 Battery
3 Starter solenoid
4 Starter motor
5 Lighting switch
6 Headlamp dip switch
7 Headlamp dip beam
8 Headlamp main beam
9 RH side lamp
10 LH side lamp
11 Number plate illumination lamp(s)
12 Stop-lamp(s)
13 RH tail lamp
14 Stop-lamp switch
15 Fusebox
16 Interior lamp
17 Interior lamp door switch
18 LH tail lamp
19 Horn
20 Horn push
21 Direction indicator flasher unit
22 Direction indicator switch
23 RH front direction indicator lamp
24 LH front direction indicator lamp
25 RH rear direction indicator lamp
26 LH rear direction indicator lamp
27 Heater motor switch
28 Heater motor
29 Fuel level indicator tank unit
30 Windscreen wiper motor
31 Ignition/starter switch
32 Ignition coil
33 Distributor
34 Fuel pump *
35 Oil pressure switch
36 Headlamp flash switch
37 Water temperature transducer
38 Reverse lamp switch
39 Reverse lamp(s)
40 Facia-mounted clock $
41 Cigar lighter
42 Radio or Radio/Cassette unit
43 Automatic gearbox selector indicator lamp $
44 Windscreen washer motor
45 Switch illumination lamp(s)
46 Direction indicator repeater lamps
47 Heated rear screen switch
48 Heated rear screen
49 Windscreen washer/wiper switch
50 Heated rear screen warning lamp
$ Non-Turbo models
51 Hazard warning lamp
52 Hazard warning switch
53 Handbrake warning lamp switch
54 Starter relay
55 Radiator cooling fan thermostat
56 Radiator cooling fan motor
57 Brake fluid level switch
58 Cigar lighter illumination lamp
59 Heater control illumination
60 Choke warning lamp switch
61 Window lift switch
62 Window lift motor
63 Headlamp relay
64 Heated rear screen relay
65 Glovebox illumination lamp
66 Glovebox illumination switch
67 Rear screen wiper motor
68 Rear screen washer motor
69 Fog rearguard lamp switch
70 Fog rearguard warning lamp
71 Fog rearguard lamp(s)
72 Fuel pump relay *
73 Windscreen wiper delay
74 Ignition switch relay
75 Header console-mounted clock
76 Brake pad wear sensor
77 Speaker
78 Rear screen wiper switch
79 Rear screen wash switch
80 Door lock motor
81 Door lock control unit
82 Electronic control unit *
83 Control valve solenoid *
84 Load space lamp/switch
85 Carburettor vent valve *
86 Window lift relay
87 Column switch illumination
88 Footwell illumination
89 Fusebox illumination
90 Auxiliary ignition relay
91 Fusible links
92 Mechanical instruments
93 Rear screen programmed wash/wipe unit
94 Fuel pump resistor *
95 Dim-dip resistor
96 Dim-dip unit
97 Induction heater relay (where fitted) $
98 Induction heater (where fitted) $
99 Anti-run-on valve
* Turbo models
Cable colour code
B
G
K
Black
Green
Pink
LG
N
O
Light green
Brown
Orange
P
R
S
Purple
Red
Slate
U
W
Y
Blue
White
Yellow
Symbols used in wiring diagrams
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fuse board printed circuit
Instrument printed circuit
Sealed joint
Instrument printed circuit connector
Fuse board printed circuit connector
Other connector
When fitted
Component earthed via mounting
Component earthed via cable
Wiring diagrams 12•27
WD
Diagram 9: Wiring diagram for 1986 models (except Turbo)
12•28 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 10: Wiring diagram for 1986 Turbo models
Wiring diagrams 12•29
WD
Diagram 11: Wiring diagram for 1987-on models with dim-dip (all circuits except lighting and Turbo ignition)
12•30 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 12: Wiring diagram for 1987-on models with dim-dip (lighting and Turbo ignition)
Wiring diagrams 12•31
Diagram 13: Wiring diagram for central locking system
For symbols see page 12•26
1 Door lock motor
2 Fusebox
3 Door lock motor/control unit - driver’s door
For colour code see page 12•26
Diagram 14: Wiring diagram for pre-engaged starter fitted to models with automatic transmission. For colour code see page 12•26
1
2
3
4
Starter motor
Solenoid
To ignition coil
Battery
5
6
7
8
Solenoid relay
Feed from battery
From ignition switch
Starter inhibitor switch
WD
12•32 Wiring diagrams
Diagram 15: Wiring diagram for electric window system
For symbols see page 12•26
1
2
3
4
Windows lift switch front LH
Window lift switch front RH
Window lift motor
Battery
5
6
7
8
Ignition switch relay
Window lift relay
Ignition switch
Fusebox
For colour code see page 12•26
Reference
Dimensions and Weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•1
Conversion Factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•2
Buying Spare Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
Vehicle Identification Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•3
General Repair Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•4
REF•1
Tools and Working Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•5
MOT Test Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•7
Fault Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•11
Glossary of Technical Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•18
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REF•23
Dimensions and Weights
Note: All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturer’s data for exact figures.
Dimensions
Turning circle (between kerbs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Overall width (excluding mirrors) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Overall height (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ground clearance (approx.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Track (all models except those below):
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33 ft 6 in (10.2 m)
7 ft 5 in (2.3 m)
11 ft 2 in (3.4 m)
5 ft 2 in (1.6 m)
4 ft 6 in (1.4 m)
4.5 in (112 mm) to 6.7 in (170 mm)
Weights
lb
1594 to 1918
kg
723 to 870
1433
1874
2095
100 to 120
650
850
950
45 to 55
882
705
106
400
320
48
2536
1323
683
1150
600
310
Kerb weights (approx., with full fuel tank): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum braked trailer weight (subject to local legislation):
1.0 HLE and automatics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other 1.0 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
All other 1.3 models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum downward load on towing hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum vehicle loading:
All except Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum roof rack load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Van loading:
Gross vehicle weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum front and rear axle loads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maximum vehicle loading excluding driver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4 ft 3 in (1.3 m)
4 ft 3 in (1.3 m)
REF
REF•2
Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in)
Feet (ft)
Miles
x 25.4
x 0.305
x 1.609
= Millimetres (mm)
= Metres (m)
= Kilometres (km)
x 0.0394 = Inches (in)
x 3.281 = Feet (ft)
x 0.621 = Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
16.387 =
0.568 =
1.137 =
1.201 =
0.946 =
4.546 =
1.201 =
3.785 =
Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3)
Litres (l)
Litres (l)
US quarts (US qt)
Litres (l)
Litres (l)
US gallons (US gal)
Litres (l)
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
0.061
1.76
0.88
0.833
1.057
0.22
0.833
0.264
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb)
x 28.35 = Grams (g)
x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)
x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
x 0.278 = Newtons (N)
x 4.448 = Newtons (N)
x 0.1
= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)
x 3.6
= Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
x 9.81 = Newtons (N)
x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)
x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa)
x 0.01
x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
x
x
x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH2O)
x
x
x
x
x 0.069 = Bars
x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)
= Kilograms-force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2)
100
= Pascals (Pa)
0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
0.401 = Inches of water (inH2O)
0.535 = Inches of water (inH2O)
0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
x
x
x
x
1.333
2.491
1.868
27.68
=
=
=
=
Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH2O)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm)
x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre
(kgf cm; kg cm)
x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)
x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm)
x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres
(kgf m; kg m)
x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
x 12
= Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)
x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
Power
Horsepower (hp)
x 745.7 = Watts (W)
x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg)
x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l)
x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example: Rover dealers, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed Rover dealers - This is
the best source of parts that are peculiar to
your car and are otherwise generally not
available (e.g. complete cylinder heads,
internal gearbox components, badges, interior
trim etc.). It is also the only place at which you
should buy parts if your car is still under
warranty; non-Rover parts may invalidate the
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts it will always be necessary to give the
storeman your car’s engine number and
chassis number. If possible, to take the old
part along for positive identification. Many
parts are available under a factory exchange
scheme - any parts returned should always be
clean! It obviously makes good sense to go to
the specialists on your car for this type of part
as they are best equipped to supply you.
Other garages and accessory shops - These
are often very good places to buy material
and components needed for the maintenance
REF•3
of your car (e.g. oil filters, spark plugs, etc.).
They also sell general accessories, usually
have convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices and can often be found not far from
home.
Motor factors - Good factors will stock all
the more important components that wear out
relatively quickly (e.g. clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
pipes/seals and pads, etc.). Motor factors will
often provide new or reconditioned
components on a part exchange basis - this
can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct
identification of the component required.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture, body and engine
numbers as appropriate.
The vehicle identification number is
stamped on a plate on the left-hand side of the
bonnet lock crossmember (see illustration).
Vehicle identification plate
The engine number is stamped on a plate
attached to the front of the cylinder block by
the alternator upper mounting (see
illustration).
Engine number location (arrowed)
REF
REF•4
General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or
some similar device in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in noncritical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt or
stud thread. However, it should be noted that
self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their
effectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be reused, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available
alternatives
to
the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain. To
find the location of
your local oil
recycling bank,
call this number
free.
Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Special category when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair
tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than openended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
M Combination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &
19 mm
M Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
M Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
M Spark plug gap adjustment tool
M Set of feeler blades
M Brake bleed nipple spanner
M Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
M Combination pliers
M Hacksaw (junior)
M Tyre pump
M Tyre pressure gauge
M Oil can
M Oil filter removal tool
M Fine emery cloth
M Wire brush (small)
M Funnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Spline bit set
Spline key set
Valve spring compressor
REF•5
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repair list.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the halfinch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you
cannot afford a socket set, even bought
piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box
spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list.
M Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
M Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
M Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
M Universal joint (for use with sockets)
M Torque wrench (for use with sockets)
M Self-locking grips
M Ball pein hammer
M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
M Screwdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electricians) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
M Pliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electricians)
Circlip (internal and external)
M Cold chisel - 25 mm
M Scriber
M Scraper
M Centre punch
M Pin punch
M Hacksaw
M Brake hose clamp
M Brake/clutch bleeding kit
M Selection of twist drills
M Steel rule/straight-edge
M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
M Selection of files
M Wire brush
M Axle-stands
M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
M Light with extension lead
Two- and three legged bearing puller
REF
REF•6
Tools and working facilities
Special tools
Buying tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy
many of these tools. Where this is the case,
you could consider clubbing together with
friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a
joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against
a deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large
range of special tools for hire at modest rates.
The following list contains only those tools
and instruments freely available to the public,
and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer
network. You will find occasional references to
these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of
this manual. Generally, an alternative method
of doing the job without the vehicle
manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to using
them. Where this is the case and the relevant
tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will
have to entrust the work to a franchised
garage.
M Valve spring compressor
M Valve grinding tool
M Piston ring compressor
M Piston ring removal/installation tool
M Cylinder bore hone
M Balljoint separator
M Coil spring compressors (where applicable)
M Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller
M Impact screwdriver
M Micrometer and/or vernier calipers
M Dial gauge
M Stroboscopic timing light
M Dwell angle meter/tachometer
M Universal electrical multi-meter
M Cylinder compression gauge
M Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge
M Clutch plate alignment set
M Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool
M Bush and bearing removal/installation set
M Stud extractors
M Tap and die set
M Lifting tackle
M Trolley jack
For practically all tools, a tool factor is the
best source, since he will have a very
comprehensive range compared with the
average garage or accessory shop. Having
said that, accessory shops often offer
excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it
pays to shop around.
Remember, you don’t have to buy the most
expensive items on the shelf, but it is always
advisable to steer clear of the very cheap
tools. There are plenty of good tools around at
reasonable prices, but always aim to
purchase items which meet the relevant
national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the
proprietor or manager of the shop for advice
before making a purchase.
Stroboscopic timing light
attention with emery cloth or a file will soon
restore items like this to a good serviceable
finish.
Working facilities
Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is
necessary to keep the tools in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always wipe
off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a
clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.
Never leave them lying around after they have
been used. A simple tool rack on the garage
or workshop wall for items such as
screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store
all normal spanners and sockets in a metal
box. Any measuring instruments, gauges,
meters, etc, must be carefully stored where
they cannot be damaged or become rusty.
Take a little care when tools are used.
Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and
screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their
blades from time to time. A little timely
Not to be forgotten when discussing tools
is the workshop itself. If anything more than
routine maintenance is to be carried out,
some form of suitable working area becomes
essential.
It is appreciated that many an ownermechanic is forced by circumstances to
remove an engine or similar item without the
benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done
this, any repairs should always be done under
the cover of a roof.
Wherever possible, any dismantling should
be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at
a suitable working height.
Any workbench needs a vice; one with a
jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most
jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean
dry storage space is also required for tools, as
well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids,
touch-up paints and so on, which become
necessary.
Another item which may be required, and
which has a much more general usage, is an
electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8
mm. This, together with a good range of twist
drills, is virtually essential for fitting
accessories.
Last, but not least, always keep a supply of
old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags
available, and try to keep any working area as
clean as possible.
Micrometer set
Vernier calipers
Cylinder compression gauge
Clutch plate alignment set
Care and maintenance of tools
MOT test checks
REF•7
This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test.
Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same
standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through
the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas
before submitting the vehicle for the test.
Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester
has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such
discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or
friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the
vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may
be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is
scruffy and apparently neglected.
It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,
based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards
are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some
exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes
publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals).
An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks.
The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:
1
1
Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S
SEAT
2
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
ON THE GROUND
3
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE
RAISED AND THE
WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
4
Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S
EXHAUST EMISSION
SYSTEM
Checks carried out
FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT
Handbrake
M Test the operation of the handbrake.
Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates
incorrect brake or cable adjustment.
M Check that the handbrake cannot be
released by tapping the lever sideways. Check
the security of the lever mountings.
M Check that the brake pedal is secure and in
good condition. Check also for signs of fluid
leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which
would indicate failed seals in the brake master
cylinder.
M Check the servo unit (when applicable) by
operating the brake pedal several times, then
keeping the pedal depressed and starting the
engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will
move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or
the servo itself may be faulty.
Footbrake
M Depress the brake pedal and check that it
does not creep down to the floor, indicating a
master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait
a few seconds, then depress it again. If the
pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm
resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is
necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is
air in the hydraulic system which must be
removed by bleeding.
movement of the steering wheel, indicating
wear in the column support bearings or
couplings.
Windscreen and mirrors
M The windscreen must be free of cracks or
other significant damage within the driver’s
field of view. (Small stone chips are
acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be
secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.
Steering wheel and column
M Examine the steering wheel for fractures or
looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.
M Move the steering wheel from side to side
and then up and down. Check that the
steering wheel is not loose on the column,
indicating wear or a loose retaining nut.
Continue moving the steering wheel as before,
but also turn it slightly from left to right.
M Check that the steering wheel is not loose
on the column, and that there is no abnormal
REF
REF•8
MOT test checks
Electrical equipment
M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
M Check the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
M Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
M Examine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
M The front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
M Both front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
2
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
Vehicle identification
M Number plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
M Check the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
M Check the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
M Switch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
M Check the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
M Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
Steering and suspension
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
M Have your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
M Check that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
M Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
M The VIN plate (A) and homologation plate
(B) must be legible.
M The fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.
MOT test checks
Exhaust system
M Start the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
M Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments.
M Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
REF•9
M The same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
M Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
M Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
3
Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
M If excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
M Have your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
M Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Braking system
M If possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
M Carry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
M Examine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
M If coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
M If leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.
M Examine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
M Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
M Slowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
REF
REF•10
MOT test checks
M Examine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
M It is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test
can be carried out later to check that the
vehicle pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
M Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
M Examine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
properly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
M Check that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
M Check the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
M Check the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in loadbearing areas. (These include chassis box
sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars,
and all suspension, steering, braking system
and seat belt mountings and anchorages.)
Any corrosion which has seriously reduced
the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
M Damage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
4
Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
Petrol models
Wheels and tyres
M Examine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and
M Have the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
M Before any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow
the engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
M An exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
M At the time or writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissions
M With the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000
rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less,
this counts as a pass.
M Excessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
M The only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
Fault diagnosis
REF•11
Engine
Automatic transmission
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m General gear selection problems
m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator pedal
fully depressed
m Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
Starter motor turns engine slowly
Engine rotates, but will not start
Engine difficult to start when cold
Engine difficult to start when hot
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement
Engine starts, but stops immediately
Engine idles erratically
Engine misfires at idle speed
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
Engine hesitates on acceleration
Engine stalls
Engine lacks power
Engine backfires
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
Engine runs-on after switching off
Excessive oil consumption
Engine noises
Cooling system
m
m
m
m
m
Overheating
Overcooling
External coolant leakage
Internal coolant leakage
Corrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
m
m
m
Excessive fuel consumption
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Insufficient fuel supply or weak mixture
Clutch
m Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m Judder as clutch is engaged
m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual gearbox
m
m
m
m
m
m
Noisy in neutral with engine running
Noisy in one particular gear
Difficulty engaging gears
Jumps out of gear
Vibration
Lubricant leaks
Driveshaft
m Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
Excessive brake pedal travel
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
Brakes binding
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m Vehicle pulls to one side
m Wheel wobble and vibration
m Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m Wandering or general instability
m Excessively-stiff steering
m Excessive play in steering
m Low suspension ride height
m Tyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m Lights inoperative
m Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Introduction
The car owner who does his or her maintenance according to the
recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the
manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided
those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed
at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults
do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop
over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually
preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily carried in the car.
With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin
investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault
recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
noises or smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such
as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure
to start or breakdown on the road. Whatever the fault, certain
principles apply. These are as follows:
Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know
REF
REF•12
Fault diagnosis
what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not
have described it very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the car won’t start, is
there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!). If an electrical
fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the
test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a
fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the
underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same
way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get
you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it
wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established
and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a
“new” component may itself be defective (especially if it’s been rattling
around in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted.
When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably realise
that all the evidence was there from the start.
Engine
Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 5).
m Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m Defective starter solenoid or switch (Chapter 5).
m Ignition/starter switch faults (Chapter 5).
m Defective starter motor (Chapter 5).
m Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2A or 5).
m Engine earth strap broken or disconnected (Chapter 5).
m Major mechanical failure (seizure) or long disuse (piston rings
rusted to bores), (Chapters 2A and 2B).
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m Partially-discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push
start) (Chapter 5).
m Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m Battery earth to body defective (Chapter 5).
m Engine earth strap loose (Chapter 5).
m Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose (Chapter 5).
m Starter motor internal fault (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates, but will not start
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
Fuel tank empty.
Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine).
Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
Ignition components damp or damaged (Chapters 1 and 5).
Dirty or incorrectly gapped contact breaker points (Chapter 1).
Dirt or water in carburettor (Chapter 4).
Carburettor vent filter blocked (economy models only) (Chapter 4).
Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m Major mechanical failure (e.g. broken timing chain) (Chapter 2A).
Engine difficult to start when cold
m
m
m
m
m
Battery discharged (Chapter 5).
Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
Worn, faulty or incorrectly-gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
Other ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
Engine difficult to start when hot
m Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
m Low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in
engagement
m Starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken
(Chapters 2A or 5).
m Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
m Starter motor internal components worn or damaged (Chapter 5).
Engine starts, but stops immediately
m Loose or faulty electrical connections in the ignition circuit
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash),
(Chapters 1 and 5).
m Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) (Chapters 1 and 5).
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body or inlet manifold (Chapter 4).
Engine idles erratically
m Incorrectly adjusted idle speed (Chapter 1).
m Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1).
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect (Chapter 1).
m Faulty coil or condenser (Chapter 5).
m Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).
m Worn rocker arms, timing chain, and gears (Chapter 2A).
m Faulty fuel pump (Chapter 4).
m Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
m Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2A).
Engine misfires at idle speed
m Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m Faulty coil or condenser (Chapter 5).
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 1).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect (Chapter 4).
m Dirt or water in carburettor (Chapter 4).
m Burnt out valve (Chapter 2A).
m Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A).
m Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).
m Worn carburettor (Chapter 4).
m Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
m Disconnected, leaking, or perished crankcase ventilation hoses
(Chapter 4).
Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m
m
m
m
Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m Faulty spark plug HT leads (Chapter 1).
m Distributor cap cracked or tracking internally, where applicable
(Chapter 1).
Fault diagnosis
REF•13
m Faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
m Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender
before condemning the engine.
Engine hesitates on acceleration
Engine runs-on after switching off
m Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
m Insufficient choke (cold engine).
m Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapters 2A or 2B).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
m Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
Engine stalls
m Excessive oil consumption is an indication that piston rings, valve
seals and/or valve guides are in need of attention. Make sure that oil
leaks are not responsible before deciding that the rings and/or guides
are worn.
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
m Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
m Fuel tank vent blocked, or fuel pipes restricted (Chapter 4).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
Engine lacks power
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
Fuel filter choked (Chapter 1).
Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low (Chapter 4).
Uneven or low cylinder compressions (Chapter 2A).
Pressure reducing valve or ECU fault (Chapter 9).
Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
Exhaust manifold leak (Chapter 4).
Turbocharger fault, if fitted (Chapter 4).
Crankcase ventilation system fault (Chapter 2A).
Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
Brakes binding (Chapters 1 and 9).
Clutch slipping (Chapter 6).
Engine backfires
m Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or associated
hoses (Chapter 4).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine
running
m Low oil level, or incorrect oil grade (“Weekly Checks”).
m Faulty oil pressure sensor (Chapter 2A).
m Wire to sender unit earthed (Chapter 5).
m Worn engine bearings and/or oil pump (Chapters 2A or 2B).
m Excessively high engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
m Oil pressure relief valve defective (Chapter 2A).
m Oil pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 2A).
Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not
necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far
Excessive oil consumption
Engine noises
Pre-ignition (pinking) or knocking during acceleration or
under load
m
m
m
m
Ignition timing incorrect/ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
Incorrect grade of spark plug (Chapter 1).
Incorrect grade of fuel (Chapter 1).
Vacuum leak at throttle body, inlet manifold or associated hoses
(Chapter 4).
m Distributor faulty or worn (Chapter 5).
m Carburettor adjustment incorrect or blocked (Chapter 4).
m Excessive carbon build-up in engine (Chapters 2A or 2B).
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
m
m
m
Leaking inlet manifold or throttle body gasket (Chapter 4).
Leaking exhaust manifold gasket (Chapter 4).
Leaking vacuum hose (Chapters 4 and 9).
Blowing cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A).
Tapping or rattling noises
m Worn valve gear, timing chain, camshaft (Chapter 2A).
m Incorrect valve clearances (Chapter 2A).
m Ancillary component fault (i.e. water pump, alternator, etc.),
(Chapters 3, 5, etc.).
m Broken piston ring (ticking noise), (Chapter 2B).
Knocking or thumping noises
m Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less
under load), (Chapter 2B).
m Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening
under load), (Chapter 2B).
m Piston slap (most noticeable when cold), (Chapter 2B).
m Ancillary component fault (water pump, alternator, etc.), (Chapters
3, 5, etc.).
Cooling system
Overheating
External coolant leakage
m Auxiliary drivebelt broken - or, where applicable, incorrectly
adjusted (Chapter 1).
m Insufficient coolant in system (“Weekly Checks”).
m Thermostat faulty.
m Radiator core blocked, or grille restricted.
m Electric cooling fan or thermostatic switch faulty.
m Pressure cap faulty.
m Ignition timing incorrect, or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
m Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit.
m Airlock in cooling system (Chapter 1).
m
m
m
m
m
m
Overcooling
Corrosion
m Thermostat faulty.
m Inaccurate temperature gauge sender unit.
m Infrequent draining and flushing (Chapter 1).
m Incorrect coolant mixture or wrong coolant type (“Weekly Checks”).
Deteriorated or damaged hoses or hose clips (Chapter 1).
Radiator core or heater matrix leaking.
Expansion tank leakage.
Pressure cap faulty.
Water pump gasket leaking.
Boiling due to overheating.
Internal coolant leakage
m Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2A).
m Cracked cylinder head or cylinder block (Chapters 2A or 2B).
REF
REF•14
Fault diagnosis
Fuel and exhaust systems
Excessive fuel consumption
Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m Leaking exhaust system or manifold joints (Chapters 1 and 4).
m Leaking, corroded or damaged silencers or pipe (Chapters 1 and 4).
m Broken mountings causing body or suspension contact (Chapter 4).
Air filter element dirty or clogged (Chapter 1).
Ignition timing incorrect or ignition system fault (Chapters 1 and 5).
Float level incorrect.
Mixture adjustment incorrect (Chapter 1).
Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 2A).
Brakes binding (Chapter 9).
Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly Checks”).
Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m Damaged fuel tank, pipes or connections (Chapters 1 and 4).
Insufficient fuel supply or weak mixture
m
m
m
m
m
m
Sticking needle valve.
Faulty fuel pump.
Leaking fuel pipe unions.
Leaking manifold gasket.
Leaking carburettor mounting gasket.
Mixture adjustment incorrect (Chapter 1).
Clutch
Refer to Chapter 6 for further details.
Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little
resistance
m
m
m
m
m
Leak in clutch hydraulic system, if applicable.
Faulty hydraulic master or slave cylinder, if applicable.
Broken clutch cable, if fitted.
Broken clutch release bearing or fork.
Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate.
Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
m
Leak in clutch hydraulic system.
Faulty hydraulic master or slave cylinder.
Incorrect adjustment.
Broken clutch cable, if fitted.
Clutch disc sticking on gearbox input shaft splines.
Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate.
Faulty pressure plate assembly.
Clutch release mechanism worn or incorrectly assembled.
Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no
increase in vehicle speed)
m
m
m
m
Clutch disc linings excessively worn.
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease.
Incorrect adjustment.
Faulty pressure plate or weak diaphragm spring.
Judder as clutch is engaged
m
m
m
m
m
m
Clutch disc linings contaminated with oil or grease.
Clutch disc linings excessively worn.
Faulty or distorted pressure plate or diaphragm spring.
Worn or loose engine or gearbox mountings (Chapter 2A or 2B).
Flywheel damaged (Chapter 2A).
Clutch disc hub or gearbox input shaft splines worn.
Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
m
m
m
m
m
m
Worn clutch release bearing.
Worn or dry clutch pedal bushes.
Worn or faulty clutch cable, if fitted.
Faulty pressure plate assembly.
Pressure plate diaphragm spring broken.
Broken clutch disc cushioning springs.
Manual gearbox
Refer to Chapter 7A, unless shown otherwise.
m Worn synchroniser units.
Noisy in neutral with engine running
Jumps out of gear
m Input shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed).
m Clutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released), (Chapter 6).
m Worn or damaged gear linkage.
m Worn synchroniser units.
m Worn selector forks.
Noisy in one particular gear
m Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth.
Difficulty engaging gears
m Clutch fault (Chapter 6).
m Worn or damaged gear linkage.
m Incorrectly adjusted gear linkage.
Vibration
m Lack of oil (Chapter 1).
m Worn bearings.
Lubricant leaks
m Leaking oil seal.
m Leaking housing joint.
Fault diagnosis
REF•15
Automatic transmission
General gear selection problems
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
m The most likely cause of gear selection problems is a faulty or
poorly adjusted gear selector mechanism. The following are common
problems associated with a faulty selector mechanism.
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d) Poor gear shift quality, or erratic gear changes.
Incorrect engine oil, (especially when cold).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m Low engine/transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m Incorrect starter inhibitor switch adjustment - where applicable
(Chapter 7B).
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no
drive in forward or reverse gears
m Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission specialist,
check the fluid level as described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level
as necessary, or change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem
persists, professional help will be necessary.
Driveshafts
Refer to Chapter 8 for further details
m Worn outer constant velocity joint.
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
m Lack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter.
m Worn inner constant velocity joint.
m Bent or distorted driveshaft.
Braking system
Note: If brake problem exists, make sure that the tyres are in good
condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel alignment is
correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with unequal weight. Check
the condition of all pipe and hose connections.
Refer to Chapter 9 (unless shown otherwise), for further details.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front pads or rear
brake linings on one side (Chapters 1 and 9).
m Seized or partially seized front brake caliper piston or rear wheel
cylinder.
m Incorrect adjustment.
m A mixture of brake pad lining materials fitted between sides.
m Brake caliper mounting bolts loose.
m Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chapters 1
and 10).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes
applied
m Brake pad friction lining material worn down to metal backing
(Chapters 1 and 9).
m Excessive corrosion of brake disc - may be apparent after the
vehicle has been standing for some time (Chapters 1 and 9).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m
m
m
m
Faulty master cylinder.
Rear brake shoes out of adjustment.
Air in hydraulic system.
Faulty vacuum servo unit.
m Master cylinder mountings loose.
m Faulty master cylinder.
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapters 1 and 9).
m Brake linings contaminated.
m Seized brake caliper piston or wheel cylinder(s).
m Damaged brake line.
m Brake pads incorrectly fitted.
m New linings not yet bedded-in.
m Incorrect grade of brake pads fitted.
m Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure.
m Faulty vacuum servo unit, where fitted.
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
m
m
m
m
Worn drums and/or discs.
Brake pad linings worn (Chapters 1 and 9).
Brake caliper mounting bolts loose.
Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapters 1 and 10).
Brakes binding
m Seized brake caliper piston(s).
m Incorrectly adjusted handbrake mechanism.
m Faulty master cylinder.
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m Air in hydraulic system.
m Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapters 1 and 9).
m Rear brake linings contaminated.
m Faulty brake pressure regulator.
REF
REF•16
Fault diagnosis
Suspension and steering systems
Note: Before diagnosing suspension or steering faults, be sure that the
trouble is not due to incorrect tyre pressures, mixtures of tyre types, or
binding brakes. Refer to Chapter 10, unless shown otherwise.
Vehicle pulls to one side
m Defective tyre (“Weekly Checks”).
m Excessive wear in suspension or steering components (Chapters 1
and 10).
m Incorrect front wheel alignment.
m Accident damage to steering or suspension components (Chapters
1 and 10).
Excessively- stiff steering
m Lack of steering gear lubricant.
m Seized track rod end balljoint or suspension balljoint (Chapters 1
and 10).
m Incorrect front wheel alignment.
m Steering rack or column bent or damaged.
Excessive play in steering
m
m
m
m
Wheel wobble and vibration
m Front roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt mainly through the
steering wheel).
m Rear roadwheels out of balance (vibration felt throughout the
vehicle).
m Roadwheels damaged or distorted.
m Faulty or damaged tyre (“Weekly Checks”).
m Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
m Worn shock absorbers.
m Wheel bolts loose.
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or
during braking
Worn steering column universal joint(s).
Worn steering track rod end balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10).
Worn rack-and-pinion steering gear.
Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
Low suspension ride height
m Leaking Hydragas unit or rear interconnecting pipe.
Tyre wear excessive
Tyres worn on inside or outside edges
m Tyres under-inflated (wear on both edges) (“Weekly Checks”).
m Incorrect camber or castor angles (wear on one edge only).
m Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
m Excessively hard cornering.
m Accident damage.
Tyre treads exhibit feathered edges
m Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
m Broken or weak suspension component (Chapters 1 and 10).
m Worn or damaged anti-roll bar or mountings.
m Incorrect toe setting.
Wandering or general instability
Tyres worn on inside and outside edges
m Incorrect front wheel alignment.
m Worn steering or suspension joints, bushes or components
(Chapters 1 and 10).
m Roadwheels out of balance.
m Faulty or damaged tyre.
m Wheel bolts loose.
m Defective shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
m Tyres under-inflated (“Weekly Checks”).
m Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
Tyres worn in centre of tread
m Tyres over-inflated (“Weekly Checks”).
Tyres worn unevenly
m
m
m
m
Tyres/wheels out of balance (“Weekly Checks”).
Excessive wheel or tyre run-out (“Weekly Checks”).
Worn shock absorbers (Chapters 1 and 10).
Faulty tyre (“Weekly Checks”).
Electrical system
Note: For problems associated with the starting system, refer to the
faults listed under “Engine” earlier in this Section.
Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few
days
m Battery defective internally (Chapter 5).
m Battery electrolyte level low - where applicable (“Weekly Checks”).
m Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m Auxiliary drivebelt worn - or incorrectly adjusted, where applicable
(Chapter 1).
m Alternator not charging at correct output (Chapter 5).
m Alternator or voltage regulator faulty (Chapter 5).
m Short-circuit causing continual battery drain (Chapters 5 and 12).
Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated
with engine running
m Auxiliary drivebelt broken, worn, or incorrectly adjusted
(Chapter 1).
m Alternator brushes worn, sticking, or dirty (Chapter 5).
m Alternator brush springs weak or broken (Chapter 5).
m Internal fault in alternator or voltage regulator (Chapter 5).
m Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in charging circuit
(Chapter 5).
Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m Warning light bulb blown (Chapter 12).
m Broken, disconnected, or loose wiring in warning light circuit
(Chapter 12).
m Alternator faulty (Chapter 5).
Fault diagnosis
Lights inoperative
m
m
m
m
m
m
Bulb blown (Chapter 12).
Corrosion of bulb or bulbholder contacts (Chapter 12).
Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
Broken, loose, or disconnected wiring (Chapter 12).
Faulty switch (Chapter 12).
Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic
Instrument readings increase with engine speed
m Faulty voltage regulator (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give no reading
m Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4).
m Wiring open-circuit (Chapter 12).
m Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).
Fuel or temperature gauges give continuous maximum
reading
m Faulty gauge sender unit (Chapters 3 and 4).
m Wiring short-circuit (Chapter 12).
m Faulty gauge (Chapter 12).
Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn operates all the time
m Horn contacts permanently bridged or horn push stuck down
(Chapter 12).
Horn fails to operate
m Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
m Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).
m Faulty horn (Chapter 12).
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
m Cable connections loose (Chapter 12).
m Horn mountings loose (Chapter 12).
m Faulty horn (Chapter 12).
Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
m Wiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding (“Weekly
Checks” and Chapter 12).
m Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
m Cable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).
m Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
m Faulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
m Wiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (“Weekly Checks”).
m Excessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).
m Wiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
m Wiper blade rubbers worn or perished (“Weekly Checks”).
m Wiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized
(Chapter 12).
m Insufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove road
film (“Weekly Checks”).
REF•17
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
m Blocked washer jet.
m Disconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).
m Insufficient fluid in washer reservoir (“Weekly Checks”).
Washer pump fails to operate
m
m
m
m
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
Faulty washer switch (Chapter 12).
Faulty washer pump (Chapter 12).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
m Faulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
m Faulty switch (Chapter 12).
Window glass slow to move
m Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication
(Chapter 11).
m Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
m Faulty switch (Chapter 12).
Window glass slow to move
m Regulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication
(Chapter 11).
m Door internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).
m Faulty motor (Chapter 11).
Window glass fails to move
m
m
m
m
Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
Faulty motor (Chapter 11).
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory
in operation
Complete system failure
m Blown fuse (Chapter 12).
m Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
m Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
m Faulty switch (Chapter 12).
m Broken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).
m Faulty relay (Chapter 12).
One solenoid/motor fails to operate
m Broken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
m Faulty solenoid/motor (Chapter 11).
m Broken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).
m Fault in door latch (Chapter 11).
REF
REF•18
Glossary of Technical terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter element The actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compound
A coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
Anti-seize compound
Asbestos A natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.
Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
Air filter
Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clip A long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
Alternator A component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Alternator (exploded view)
Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealer A substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
Antifreeze A substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nipple A valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Axle assembly
Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
B
Ball bearing
An anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
Brake bleeding
Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake disc The component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake drum The component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake linings The friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake pads The replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systems For more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
Bulkhead The insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
C
Bearing
Caliper The non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
Glossary of Technical terms
Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
Canister A container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
Canister
Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
Carburettor
Castellated Resembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
Catalytic converter A silencer-like device in
the exhaust system which converts certain
pollutants in the exhaust gases into less
harmful substances.
Catalytic converter
Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent
endwise movement of cylindrical parts and
shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a
groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into
a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece
such as a shaft.
Clearance The amount of space between
two parts. For example, between a piston and
a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal,
etc.
Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in
various sizes throughout a vehicle, for
example as a springing medium in the
suspension and in the valve train.
Compression Reduction in volume, and
increase in pressure and temperature, of a
gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller
space.
Compression ratio The relationship between
cylinder volume when the piston is at top
dead centre and cylinder volume when the
piston is at bottom dead centre.
Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of
universal joint that cancels out vibrations
caused by driving power being transmitted
through an angle.
Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal device
inserted in a hole in a casting through which
core was removed when the casting was
formed. Also known as a freeze plug or
expansion plug.
Crankcase The lower part of the engine
block in which the crankshaft rotates.
Crankshaft The main rotating member, or
shaft, running the length of the crankcase,
with offset “throws” to which the connecting
rods are attached.
REF•19
Crocodile clip See Alligator clip
D
Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by
accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine
management computer. This code can be
used to determine the area in the system
where a malfunction may be located.
Disc brake A brake design incorporating a
rotating disc onto which brake pads are
squeezed. The resulting friction converts the
energy of a moving vehicle into heat.
Double-overhead cam (DOHC) An engine
that uses two overhead camshafts, usually
one for the intake valves and one for the
exhaust valves.
Drivebelt(s)
The belt(s) used to drive
accessories such as the alternator, water
pump, power steering pump, air conditioning
compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.
Accessory drivebelts
Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit
motion. Commonly used when referring to the
axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle.
Driveshaft
Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner
surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is
pressed, curved brake shoes with friction
linings press against the inside of the drum to
slow or stop the vehicle.
Castellated nut
Castor In wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Crankshaft assembly
Drum brake assembly
REF
REF•20
Glossary of Technical terms
E
EGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaust
gases into the intake air stream.
Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened
steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to
check or measure clearances between parts.
electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the
spacing between the points in a contact
breaker assembly in a conventional pointstype ignition, or to the distance between the
reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an
electronic ignition.
Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork,
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed
between two metal surfaces to ensure a good
seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket
seals the joint between the block and the
cylinder head.
EGR valve
Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer
which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel
injection systems, or an anti-lock braking
system. For more information refer to the
Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic
Systems Manual.
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer
controlled fuel system that distributes fuel
through an injector located in each intake port
of the engine.
Emergency brake
A braking system,
independent of the main hydraulic system,
that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if
the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle
stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t
depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever
that actuates either front or rear brakes
mechanically through a series of cables and
linkages. Also known as a handbrake or
parking brake.
Endfloat
The amount of lengthwise
movement between two parts. As applied to a
crankshaft, the distance that the crankshaft
can move forward and back in the cylinder
block.
Engine management system (EMS) A
computer controlled system which manages
the fuel injection and the ignition systems in
an integrated fashion.
Exhaust manifold A part with several
passages through which exhaust gases leave
the engine combustion chambers and enter
the exhaust pipe.
Feeler blade
Firing order The order in which the engine
cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes,
beginning with the number one cylinder.
Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which
energy is absorbed and stored by means of
momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached
to the crankshaft to smooth out firing
impulses.
Free play The amount of travel before any
action takes place. The “looseness” in a
linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the
initial application of force and actual
movement. For example, the distance the
brake pedal moves before the pistons in the
master cylinder are actuated.
Fuse An electrical device which protects a
circuit against accidental overload. The typical
fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is
calibrated to melt at a predetermined current
flow (expressed as amps) and break the
circuit.
Fusible link A circuit protection device
consisting of a conductor surrounded by
heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is
smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as
the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown
fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be
cut from the wire for replacement.
G
Gap The distance the spark must travel in
jumping from the centre electrode to the side
Gasket
Gauge An instrument panel display used to
monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a
movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an
analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical
readout is called a digital gauge.
H
Halfshaft A rotating shaft that transmits
power from the final drive unit to a drive
wheel, usually when referring to a live rear
axle.
Harmonic balancer A device designed to
reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the
crankshaft. May be incorporated in the
crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration
damper.
Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small
irregularities or differences in diameter in an
engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc.
Hydraulic tappet A tappet that utilises
hydraulic pressure from the engine’s
lubrication system to maintain zero clearance
(constant contact with both camshaft and
valve stem). Automatically adjusts to variation
in valve stem length. Hydraulic tappets also
reduce valve noise.
I
Exhaust manifold
F
Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling
device which permits variable engine fan
speeds in relation to engine speeds.
Adjusting spark plug gap
Ignition timing The moment at which the
spark plug fires, usually expressed in the
number of crankshaft degrees before the
piston reaches the top of its stroke.
Inlet manifold A tube or housing with
passages through which flows the air-fuel
mixture (carburettor vehicles and vehicles with
throttle body injection) or air only (port fuelinjected vehicles) to the port openings in the
cylinder head.
Glossary of Technical terms
J
Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
L
Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
Lockwasher A form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
M
MacPherson strut
A type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
Multimeter An electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensor A device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
P
Phillips screw A type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Plastigage
NOx Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valve A hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
O
R
N
Ohm The unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
Ohmmeter An instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ring A type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.
O-ring
Rack-and-pinion steering A steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful to
REF•21
the ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
Rotor In a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
S
Sealant A liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
Serpentine drivebelt
Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammer A special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
Sprocket A tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an
REF
REF•22
Glossary of Technical terms
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Park.
Strut See MacPherson strut.
T
Tappet
A cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
Thermostat A heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearing The bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release levers
by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chain A chain which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-in The amount the front wheels are
closer together at the front than at the rear. On
rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-in is usually specified to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-out The amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front. On
front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-out is usually specified.
Tools For full information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools Manual.
Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-up A process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.
Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel
engine).
U
Universal joint or U-joint A double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A Ujoint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
V
Valve A device through which the flow of
liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partially
obstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearance The clearance between the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliper
A precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure”
in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current
of one ampere through a resistance of one
ohm.
W
Welding Various processes used to join metal
items by heating the areas to be joined to a
molten state and fusing them together. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.
Index
REF•23
Note: References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”
A
Accelerator cable - 4•9
Accelerator pedal - 4•9
Acknowledgements - 0•4
Air cleaner - 4•4, 4•6
Air filter - 1•6, 1•15
Alternator and brushes - 5•8, 5•9
Anti-roll bars - 10•6, 10•11
Antifreeze - 0•8, 0•11, 0•16, 1•14
Automatic transmission - 7B•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
kickdown linkage - 7B•3
removal and refitting - 7B•1
reversing light switch - 7B•4
selector cable - 7B•3
selector check - 1•6
speedometer pinion/drivegear - 7B•4
starter inhibitor switch - 7B•4
torque converter - 7B•2
B
Battery - 0•14, 1•7, 5•3, 5•4
Beam alignment - 12•7
Bearings (engine) - 2B•12
Bleeding the brakes - 9•9
Body damage - 11•1
Body electrical systems - 12•1 et seq
Bodywork and fittings - 11•1 et seq
Bonnet - 11•3
Bonnet release cable - 11•4
Brake caliper disc - 9•4
Brake checks - 1•12
Brake disc pads - 9•2
Brake discs - 9•5
Brake drum - 9•6
Brake fluid - 0•12, 0•16, 1•13
Brake hydraulic lines and hoses - 9•9
Brake master cylinder - 9•6
Brake pedal - 9•11
Brake shoes rear - 9•3
Brakes rear adjustment - 9•2
Braking system - 9•1 et seq
adjustment - 9•2
bleeding the brakes - 9•9
brake caliper disc - 9•4
brake disc pads - 9•2
brake drum - 9•6
brake hydraulic lines and hoses - 9•9
brake pads front - 9•2
brake pedal - 9•11
brake pressure reducing valve - 9•9
brake shoes - 9•3
discs - 9•5
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
handbrake adjustment - 1•13, 9•11
handbrake cable - 9•11
handbrake lever/switch - 9•11
hoses - 9•9
hydraulic system (brakes) bleeding - 9•9
master cylinder (brake) - 9•6
pressure compensating valve - 9•8
rear brake adjuster - 9•6
rear brake backplate - 9•6
vacuum servo unit - 9•12
wheel cylinder - 9•6
Bulbs - 12•1, 12•4, 12•5
direction indicator - 12•5
foglamp - 12•6
headlamp -12•4
indicator lamps - 12•5
instrument panel lamps - 12•6
interior lamp - 12•6
number plate lamp - 12•6
sidelamp - 12•5
Bumpers - 11•8
Buying spare parts - REF•3
C
Cables
accelerator - 4•9
bonnet release - 11•4
choke - 4•9
clutch - 6•9
handbrake - 9•11
selector automatic transmission - 7B•3
speedometer - 12•10
Caliper disc (brake) - 9•4
Camber - 10•2
Camshaft - 2B•8
Capacities - 0•16
Carburettor - 4•3, 4•10
Carburettor vent filter - 4•13
Castor - 10•2
Catalytic converter - 4•5
Central locking - 11•6
Central locking motor - 12•15
Charging system - 5•4
Choke cable - 4•9
Cigar lighter - 12•10
Clock - 12•14
Clutch - 6•1 et seq
cable - 6•9
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
fluid - 0•13, 0•16, 1•14
hydraulic damper - 6•9
hydraulic system - 6•4
pedal - 6•4
release bearing - 6•8
removal, inspection, refitting - 6•5, 6•7
slave cylinder - 6•4
Compression test - 2A•3
Condenser - 5•4
Connecting rods - 2B•10
Constant velocity joint - 8•1, 8•3
Contact breaker - 1•14
Contents - 0•2
Conversion factors - REF•2
Coolant - 0•8, 0•11, 0•16, 1•8, 1•14
Cooling fan (radiator) - 3•6
Cooling fan thermostatic switch - 3•6
Cooling, heating systems - 3•1 et seq
components - 3•2
draining - 3•3
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•13
filling - 3•4
flushing - 3•4
heater - 3•7, 3•8
heater motor - 3•9
radiator - 3•4
temperature gauge transmitter - 3•6
thermostat - 3•5
water pump - 3•5
switches (cooling system) - 3•6
REF
REF•24
Index
Courtesy light switch - 12•4
Crankcase ventilation system - 2A•9
Crankshaft/main bearings - 2B•12
CV joints - 8•1, 8•3
Cylinder block/crankcase - 2B•13
Cylinder head - 2A•6, 2B•7
D
Dents - 11•1
Differential unit - 7C•2
Dimensions and weights - REF•1
Direction indicaters - 12•3
Disc pads (brake) - 9•2
Discs brake - 9•5
Distributor - 1•8, 5•5
Door - 11•3, 11•6
Door inner trim panel - 11•4
Drivebelt check - 1•9
Driveshafts - 8•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•15
Drum (brake) - 9•6
Dump valve (fuel system) - 4•15
E
Electric mirror - 11•13
Electric window motor - 11•7
Electric window switch - 12•4
Electrical system (body) - 12•1 et seq
Electrical system check - 0•13
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•16
Electronic ignition system - 5•3, 5•7, 5•8
Engine (in-car repair) - 2A•1 et seq
Engine (removal and overhaul) - 2B•1 et seq
bearings - 2B•12
camshaft - 2B•8
compartment - 0•10, 1•3
compression test - 2A•3
connecting rods - 2B•10
crankcase ventilation system - 2A•9
crankshaft/main bearings - 2B•12
cylinder block/crankcase - 2B•13
cylinder head - 2A•6, 2B•7
dismantling - 2B•7
electrical systems - 5•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•12
flywheel/torque converter ring gear - 2A•10
in car repair - 2A•1 et seq
main bearings - 2B•12
oil - 0•11, 0•16, 1•5
filter renewal - 0•16, 1•5, 1•15
oil cooler - 2A•10
oil level - 0•11
oil pump - 2B•9
overhaul (engine) - 2B•4
piston rings - 2B•11
piston/connecting rod - 2B•10
removal and overhaul - 2B•1 et seq
tappets - 2A•9
timing cover, chain & gears - 2A•7
Top Dead Centre (locating) - 2A•8
valves - 2A•7, 2B•8
Engine/gearbox removal - 2B•5
Environmental considerations - REF•4
Exhaust elbow gasket - 4•15
Exhaust manifold - 4•4, 4•13
Exhaust system - 4•4, 4•16
Exhaust system check - 1•11
F
Facia - 11•8
Fan - 3•6
Fanbelt/Alternator drivebelt check - 1•9
Fault diagnosis:
automatic transmission - REF•15
braking system - REF•15
clutch - REF•14
cooling system - REF•13
driveshafts - REF•15
electrical system - REF•16
engine - REF•12
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•14
introduction - REF•11
manual gearbox - REF•14
steering - REF•16
suspension - REF•16
Final drive - 7C•1 et seq
Final drive pinion - 7C•4
Fluids - 0•16, 1•13, 1•14
Flushing (cooling system) - 3•4
Flywheel housing oil seal - 7A•4
Flywheel/torque converter ring gear - 2A•10
Foglamp bulb - 12•6
Front hub assembly - 10•8
Front suspension balljoints - 10•8
Front suspension arms - 10•7, 10•8
Front wing - 11•3
Fuel and exhaust systems - 4•1 et seq
accelerator cable - 4•9
accelerator pedal - 4•9
air cleaner - 4•4, 4•6
carburettor - 4•3, 4•10
carburettor vent filter - 4•13
catalytic converter - 4•5
choke cable - 4•9
dump valve - 4•15
exhaust elbow gasket - 4•15
exhaust manifold - 4•4, 4•13
exhaust system - 4•4, 4•16
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
fuel filter - 1•7, 1•15, 4•7
fuel gauge sender unit - 4•9
fuel pressure regulator - 4•15
fuel pump - 4•6, 4•7
fuel tank - 4•8
idle speed/mixture (CO) - 4•1, 4•2, 1•9
inlet manifold - 4•4, 4•13
manifolds - 4•4, 4•13
pressure reducing valve - 4•14
temperature control system - 4•6
throttle cable - 4•9
turbocharger - 4•4, 4•14
unleaded petrol - 4•3
wastegate actuator - 4•15
Fuses - 12•1, 12•2
G
Gearbox - see Manual gearbox or
Automatic transmission
Gearbox oil - 0•16, 7A•1
Gearbox overhaul - 7A•6
Gearbox removal and refitting - 7A•2
Index
Gearchange remote control - 7A•3
General repair procedures - REF •4
Glass - 11•4, 11•7
Glossary of tehcnical terms - REF•18
J
H
K
L
Handbrake adjustment - 1•13 , 9•11
Handbrake cable - 9•11
Handbrake lever/switch - 9•11
Hazard flasher system - 12•3
Headlamp beam alignment - 12•7
Headlamp bulbs - 12•4
Headlamp surrounds - 11•8
Headlamp washers - 12•14
Headlamps - 12•4
Heater - 3•7, 3•8,
Heater motor - 3•9
Heating systems - 3•1 et seq
Hinges and locks - 1•11
Horn - 12•10
Hose and fluid leak check - 1•8
Hoses brake - 9•9
HT coil - 5•8
Hydragas check - 1•12
Hydragas units - 10•5, 10•9
Hydraulic lines/hoses (braking system) - 9•9
Hydraulic system (brakes) bleeding - 9•9
I
Idle speed/mixture - 1•9, 4•2
Ignition HT coil - 5•8
Ignition switch - 12•3
Ignition system check - 1•8
Indicator lamp bulbs - 12•5
Inlet manifold - 4•4, 4•13
Instrument panel - 12•7, 12•10
Instrument panel lamp bulb - 12•6
Instrument panel switches - 12•3
Interior lamp bulbs - 12•6
Introduction to the Austin/MG Metro - 0•4
Jacking and vehicle support - 0•6
Jump starting - 0•9
Kickdown linkage - 7B•3
Leak checking - 0•8, 1•8
Lighting switch - 12•3
Locks door - 11•6
Locks tailgate - 11•3
Lubricants and fluids - 0•16
M
Main bearings - 2B•12
Maintenance - see Routine maintenance
Maintenance and servicing - see Routine
maintenance
Manifolds - 4•4, 4•13
Manual gearbox - 7A•1 et seq
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•14
final drive pinion - 7C•4
gearbox oil - 7A•1
gearchange remote control - 7A•3
oil seals - 7A•5
overhaul - 7A•6
removal and refitting - 7A•2
Master cylinder (brake) - 9•6
Mechanical ignition system - 5•3
Mirrors - 11•7, 11•13
Mixture (CO) - 1•9, 4•1
MOT test checks - REF•7
N
Number plate light bulb - 12•6
REF•25
O
Oil change - 1•5
Oil cooler - 2A•10
Oil filter - 0•16, 1•5, 1•15
Oil pump - 2B•9
Oil seals - REF •4
Oil seals flywheel housing - 7A•4
Oil seals selector shaft - 7A•5
Oil, engine - 0•11, 0•16, 1•5
Oil, gearbox - 0•16, 7A•1
Overhaul (engine) - 2B•4
P
Paintwork damage - 11•2
Parts - REF•3
Pedals:
accelerator - 4•9
brake - 9•11
clutch - 6•4
Piston rings - 2B•11
Piston/connecting rod - 2B•10
Plastic components - 11•12
Plugs - 1•6, 1•15
Pressure compensating valve (brakes) - 9•8
Pressure reducing valve (fuel system) - 4•14
Pressure reducing valve (brakes) - 9•9
Punctures - 0•7
Q
R
Quarterlight - 11•13
Radiator - 3•4
Radiator grille - 11•8
Radio/cassette player - 12•14, 12•15
Rear brake adjuster - 9•6
Rear brake backplate - 9•6
Rear brakes adjustment - 9•2
REF
REF•26
Index
Rear hub assembly - 10•10
Rear suspension radius arm - 10•10
Release bearing (clutch) - 6•8
Respraying - 11•2
Reversing light switch (automatics) - 7B•4
Rings (piston) - 2B•11
Road test - 1•13
Roll bars - 10•6, 10•11
Routine maintenance and servicing - 1•1 et seq
Routine maintenance procedures - 1•4
Routine maintenance schedule - 1•1
S
Safety first! - 0•5
Scratches - 11•1
Seat belt check - 1•11
Seats - 11•7
Selector cable (automatics) - 7B•3
Selector shaft oil seal - 7A•5
Sender unit fuel gauge - 4•9
Servicing - see Routine maintenance
Servo unit (braking system) - 9•12
Shock absorber - 10•6
Shoes (rear brake) - 9•3
Sidelamp bulb - 12•5
Spare parts - REF•3
Spark plugs - 1•6, 1•15
Special tools - REF•4
Speedometer cable - 12•10
Speedometer pinion/drivegear - 7B•4
Spoiler - 11•12, 11•13
Starter inhibitor switch - 7B•4
Starter motor - 5•11
Starting problems - 0•9
Steering - 10•1 et seq
angles - 10•2
camber/castor - 10•2
checks - 1•12
column - 10•11
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•16
toe setting - 10•2
wheel - 10•11
wheel alignment - 10•2, 1•13
Subframes - 11•9
Sunroof - 11•13
Support struts (tailgate) - 11•4
Suspension and steering - 10•1 et seq
anti-roll bars - 10•6, 10•11
balljoints - 10•8
checks - 1•12
fault diagnosis - REF•11, REF•16
hub assembly - 10•8, 10•10
hydragas units - 10•5, 10•9
radius arm - 10•10
roll bars - 10•6, 10•11
shock absorber - 10•6
upper/lower arms - 10•7, 10•8
Switches:
cooling system - 3•6
courtesy light - 12•4
electric window - 12•4
instrument panel - 12•3
reversing light (automatics) - 7B•4
starter inhibitor - 7B•4
T
Tailgate - 11•3, 11•4
Tailgate washer - 12•12
Tailgate wiper motor - 12•11
Tappets - 2A•9
TDC (locating) - 2A•8
Temperature control system - 4•6
Temperature gauge transmitter - 3•6
Thermo vacuum switch - 5•7
Thermostat - 3•5
Throttle cable - 4•9
Timing check/adjustment - 1•10
Timing cover, chain and gears - 2A•7
Toe setting - 10•2
Tools and working facilities - REF•5
Top Dead Centre (locating) - 2A•8
Torque converter - 7B•2
Towing - 0•6
Trim panel (door) - 11•4
Trip computer - 12•14
Turbocharger - 4•4, 4•14
Tyre checks/pressures - 0•15, 0•16
U
Underbody views - 1•3, 1•4
Unleaded petrol - 4•3
V
Vacuum servo unit (braking system) - 9•12
Valves - 2A•7, 2B•8
Vehicle identification numbers - REF•3
Ventilation system - 3•1 et seq
W
Washer fluid level - 0•12
Washers - 12•12
Wastegate actuator - 4•15
Water pump - 3•5
Weekly checks - 0•10 et seq
Wheel (steering) - 10•11
Wheel alignment - 1•13, 10•2
Wheel arches - 11•12
Wheel changing - 0•7
Wheel cylinder - 9•6
Window glass - 11•4, 11•7
Window regulator - 11•7
Windscreen washers - 12•12
Windscreen wiper motor - 12•11
Wiper blades - 0•14, 1•15, 12•10
Wiring diagrams - WD•1 et seq
Working facilities - REF•5
Preserving Our Motoring Heritage
<
The Model J Duesenberg
Derham Tourster.
Only eight of these
magnificent cars were
ever built – this is the
only example to be found
outside the United
States of America
Almost every car you’ve ever loved, loathed or desired is gathered under one roof at the Haynes Motor
Museum. Over 300 immaculately presented cars and motorbikes represent every aspect of our motoring
heritage, from elegant reminders of bygone days, such as the superb Model J Duesenberg to curiosities like
the bug-eyed BMW Isetta. There are also many old friends and flames. Perhaps you remember the 1959 Ford
Popular that you did your courting in? The magnificent ‘Red Collection’ is a spectacle of classic sports cars
including AC, Alfa Romeo, Austin Healey, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, MG, Riley, Porsche and Triumph.
A Perfect Day Out
Each and every vehicle at the Haynes Motor Museum has played its part in the history and culture of
Motoring. Today, they make a wonderful spectacle and a great day out for all the family. Bring the kids, bring
Mum and Dad, but above all bring your camera to capture those golden memories for ever. You will also find
an impressive array of motoring memorabilia, a comfortable 70 seat video cinema and one of the most
extensive transport book shops in Britain. The Pit Stop Cafe serves everything from a cup of tea to
wholesome, home-made meals or, if you prefer, you can enjoy the large picnic area nestled in the beautiful
rural surroundings of Somerset.
>
John Haynes O.B.E.,
Founder and
Chairman of the
museum at the wheel
of a Haynes Light 12.
<
Graham Hill’s Lola
Cosworth Formula 1
car next to a 1934
Riley Sports.
The Museum is situated on the A359 Yeovil to Frome road at Sparkford, just off the A303 in Somerset. It is about 40 miles south of Bristol, and
25 minutes drive from the M5 intersection at Taunton.
Open 9.30am - 5.30pm (10.00am - 4.00pm Winter) 7 days a week, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day
Special rates available for schools, coach parties and outings Charitable Trust No. 292048