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MX-Set drum set assembly instructions
Musikhaus Thomann
Thomann GmbH
Hans-Thomann-Straße 1
96138 Burgebrach
Germany
Telephone: +49 (0) 9546 9223-0
E-mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.thomann.de
20.11.2018, ID: 225400, ... (V2)
Table of contents
Table of contents
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Safety instructions
1 Safety instructions
DANGER!
Danger for children
Ensure that plastic bags, packaging, etc. are disposed of properly and are not within reach of babies and young children. Choking hazard!
Ensure that children do not detach any small parts (e.g. knobs or the like) from the unit. They could swallow the pieces and choke!
Never let children unattended use electrical devices.
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2 Notice
Notice
This document is a general guide showing typical steps for setting up a drum set.
Depending on the model, there can be variations in the type and number of compo‐ nents.
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Unpacking
3 Unpacking
Assigning
The following guide makes it easy for you to completely assemble your drum set, to tune it and to set it up properly.
The complete drum set is supplied in two cardboard boxes. It is supplied dismantled in its individual parts. We recommend that you first sort the individual parts that belong together as described below.
Snare drum
The snare drum is supplied assembled and is generally already tuned.
Bass drum
Due to the size of the bass drum, it is always supplied dismantled.
The bass drum includes the following parts: n
1 drum shell n
2 hoops n
2 bass drum heads (1 × resonant and 1 × batter head) n 12 tension rods (wing screw) with one washer each n 4 clamping screws (square-head screws) with one washer each n
16 claw hooks n
2 bass drum spurs.
2 hanging toms
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Floor tom
Unpacking
The hanging toms include the following parts: n
2 drum shell n
2 heads per shell (total of 4) n
2 hoops per shell (total of 4) n
24 tension rods with one washer each.
The set contains a total of 37 screws – 24 for the hanging toms, 12 for the floor tom and 1 spare. The screws are all the same length.
The floor tom includes the following parts: n
1 drum shell n
2 hoops n
2 heads n
12 tension rods with one washer each n
3 spurs.
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Unpacking
Hardware package
The hardware package includes the following parts:
1 bass drum pedal
1 hi-hat stand
1 snare stand
1 cymbal boom stands
1 straight cymbal stand
2 tom holders.
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Accessories
Cymbals
The accessories include the following parts: n 1 tuning key n
1 pair of drumsticks.
Depending on the scope of supply, a set of cymbals is included: n
1 ride cymbal n
1 crash cymbal n
2 hi-hat cymbals
Unpacking
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Setting up the bass drum
4 Setting up the bass drum
Let's start with the bass drum.
Position the bass drum shell such that the screws of the tom holder point down‐ wards.
Now lay the black resonator head on the shell and put a hoop over it. Both the hoops are identical so it doesn't matter which one you put on first. Align the black resonator head such that the "Millenium" writing is parallel to the tom holder. The head must be lying evenly on the edge of the shell on all sides.
The next thing we need are the ten‐ sion rods.
Proceed as follows: Put the washer on the screw and then the claw hook. We need six wing screws and two square-head ones. The two square-head screws are on the bottom, i.e. opposite the tom holder so that there is enough free space on the ground later on.
Hand-tighten all eight screws. When doing this, tighten the screws in the diagonally opposite sequence. You only need to tighten the screws slightly, we will be tuning the drums later on.
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Mounting the spurs
Setting up the bass drum
Now, you can screw the bass drum's spurs into the holder provided at the side. Keep the spurs folded in at the side at first; when we have assembled all the shells, we can start setting up the drum set. First you must mount all the heads and then tune them.
Now turn the shell by 180° to mount the transparent batter head.
If you want to dampen the bass drum, now would be just the right time to put some appropriate material in the shell to do this. A blanket or a pillow would be perfect.
Mounting the beater head
The transparent batter head is used on the beater side. When mounting it, we pro‐ ceed in just the same way as with the resonator head. Put the head on first and lay the hoop on it, put the washers and claw hooks on the tension rods and screw them on. Here too, make sure that you use two hexagon head screws opposite the tom holder – the wing screws are used for remaining fastening. Do not tighten them too much; only enough for the hoops not to be shifted. We'll do everything else when we tune the drums. So that's the bass drum finished; now we'll do the toms.
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Mounting the toms
5 Mounting the toms
Hanging toms
The principle of assembling the toms is basically the same as with the bass drum. The shells are smaller which means that they don't have as many tension rods. The hoops are made of steel. This means that they don't need any claw hooks; rather, you screw them on directly. The tension rods aren't as long as with the bass drum either, since the hoops are not as wide.
To make the hoops easier to transport, they are fixed on one side of the shell with a couple of screws. To mount the heads, you must first completely remove the hoops.
Now lay a head on the shell and put a hoop over it. Both the hoops and heads are exactly the same so it doesn't matter which one you use where. If you look from the top, you can see whether the head and the hoop are really contacting the middle of the drum shell.
You now screw in six tension rods per side. With the tension rods, you must always ensure that the washer is inserted.
You hand-tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence. Now assemble the second hanging tom in exactly the same way as the first one. Like the bass drum, we will be tuning the tom later on.
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Floor tom
Mounting the toms
You mount the floor tom heads in exactly the same way as with the hanging toms.
This means that we'll get right on with mounting the floor tom's legs.
You can now attach the legs. When doing this, turn the feet outwards to ensure as much stability as possible. Fix the two legs at the back in about the middle. First lightly fix the leg facing the drummer by hand and then fasten it properly when it is standing. Hold the shell with one hand while screwing it with the other one.
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Assembling the bass drum pedal
6 Assembling the bass drum pedal
Let's concentrate on the hardware first. You have to assemble the bass drum pedal first. Budget bass drum pedals often don't have a continuous floor plate. To guar‐ antee that the elements lie in a stable way, they are fitted with a connecting rod.
In fact, there are two round iron rods that are spring-urged to press outwards. You can press them together with one hand and push them into the cutouts on the frame of the bass drum pedal. If the bass drum pedal has a floor plate, you don't need to carry out this step.
Now you screw the beater into the holder.
NOTICE!
Do not stick the bottom end of the shaft in too far; otherwise, it could damage the bass drum head.
You can make all the other settings later on. A separate user guide is enclosed for the the bass drum pedal.
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Assembling the hi-hat
7 Assembling the hi-hat
Pull the stand's three legs far enough apart until there is optimum stability between the base point of the stand and the legs. A wing nut ensures that the legs do not move out of position. The pedal is still dangling loosely on the chain; this means that the hi-hat's pedal is stabilised with a rod just like the bass drum pedal. To do this, reach under the pedal, press the rod fork together a bit until the ends lock home in the holes.
The next thing to do is to tightly screw home the pull rod in the stand's thread. Put the centre tube over the pull rod and screw it tight.
We will adjust the height exactly later on once we have positioned the hi-hat stand in the correct location and attached the cymbals.
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Assembling the cymbal stands
8 Assembling the cymbal stands
Fold out or extend the legs of the straight and boom cymbal stands until they are as stable as possible. After this, you fix the legs using the wing nut. The two cymbal stands are of slightly different sizes.
The slightly larger bottom case is intended for the boom cymbal stand. We'll start with this one first.
Push the centre and spacer tubes onto the bottom case and fix them with the wing screws. Now push the boom through the joint and fix it temporarily with the wing screw. We will make the final settings later on.
You mount the straight cymbal stand in a similar way to the boom one. In this case, however, the cymbal is directly on the retractable spacer tube. You attach the cym‐ bals in exactly the same way as with the hi-hat-stand after positioning.
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Assembling the snare drum stand
9 Assembling the snare drum stand
In the case of the snare drum stand too, you fold out the three legs and fix them with wing nut. Now put the top part with the arms into the lower section and screw it tight.
Screwing down the union nut opens the support arms. The union nut on the joint allows you to set the angle of the drum. Here too, we will make all the necessary set‐ tings later on when positioning the set.
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Tuning the shells
10 Tuning the shells
Basics
All the drum shells are mounted. All the hardware is assembled.
Always tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence to ensure even tension. You should tighten all the screws evenly. At the start, don't turn the screw by more than one rotation – towards the end, rotate by ¼ to
⅛
of a turn. Then check the pitch.
You check the pitch by tapping the head about 3 cm from the rim near the screw that you are just setting.
You tune the batter and resonator heads to the same pitch. You can, of course, change the pitch to match your own personal taste.
Snare drum
Bass drum
The snare drum is supplied completely assembled. Apart from a couple of slight cor‐ rections, the pitch should be OK. To check, tap a few times near the tension rods. All the tones should sound the same.
Proceed in the same way with the resonator head. When checking the pitch, the snare should not be touching. To do this, completely detension the snare and put a stick between the edge of the hoop and the snare (the stick should not touch the drum head).
After tuning, you must tension the snare again. By the way, the snare tension has a significant effect on the vibration of the resonator head and the typical snare sound.
You just have to keep trying until you find a sound you like.
Tighten all the screws evenly finger-tight. Start with the beater side. First press fairly hard with both hands on the head to press it on to the shell evenly. When you do this, the head may make noises but that's normal.
Now tighten the tension rods in the diagonally opposite sequence by one turn until the head is tuned to a pitch. A good way to check is by the reflection on the head: you shouldn't be able to see any wrinkles.
The bass drum head is often not tensioned as much as you would think.
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Tuning the shells
Tune the resonator side of the bass drum in exactly the same way.
Hanging toms and floor tom
You proceed in the same way with the hanging toms and the floor tom. Seat the head slowly and evenly. At first, press the head down with your hands to seat it well.
Tap your finger along the rim to check: you should hear a ringing tone. You shouldn't be able to see any more wrinkles.
The sounds of the three toms should also harmonise. The sounds should harmonise while you're tuning the heads. Don't be afraid to play the other two toms to ensure that the tones harmonise. Don't tune the resonator heads until you have tuned the heads on all three toms. You tune the batter and resonator heads to the same pitch.
This considerably amplifies the drums' sounds. As you come closer to the pitch of the beater head when tuning the resonator head, the drum shell gets louder and clearer with more punch.
Hit the beater head and the resonator head to compare. You will then quickly realise whether the same pitch is produced on both heads. If you tension the head too much, you lose the clear sound of the shell. Then, the easiest thing to do is to evenly loosen all the tension rods (count the turns) and start from scratch. It is not possible to tune drum heads backwards little by little.
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Setting up the drum set
11 Setting up the drum set
For optimum playing, we don't just need tuned drums; rather, it is also necessary to position all the drums in an optimum way. We now make all the settings that we neglected before. The set-up that is described here is intended for right-handers. The set-up for left-handers is a mirror image of this one. A non-slip surface like a carpet or similar guarantees stability.
Drum stool
Let's start with the drum stool. Set the height such that your thighs are almost hori‐ zontal. This allows you to sit comfortably and not to tire when using the bass drum and hi-hat pedals.
Snare drum stand
The next job is to take the snare drum stand and fix the snare drum on it. To do this, open the arms far enough to be able to reach over the bottom hoop. After this, tighten the union nut such that the snare drum cannot fall off the stand. It is impor‐ tant to ensure that none of the three arms affects the snare or the throw-off lever.
The throw-off lever should face the drummer so that it is easy to operate.
Now set the height of the snare drum such that the hand holding the drumstick can touch the head without hitting your thigh. If you lean slightly, this makes it easier to drum in general and to hit rimshots in particular.
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Completing the bass drum
Setting up the drum set
Now that we've tuned our bass drum, it's time to mount the bass drum pedal and the tom racks on the bass drum shell. Let's start with the bass drum legs. Fold the bass drum spurs out such that they point forwards at an angle of about 45°. This guaran‐ tees a safe and stable position and protects the bass drum from being pushed for‐ ward when we operate the pedal. If you lay carpet under the drum set (which is highly recommended), you can screw in the rubber feet until you can see the spikes.
These spikes stick into the carpet and prevent our drum set from "wandering off".
Lets consider the length of the spurs.
We adjust the length of the spurs such that there is a gap of the width of one finger between the floor and the lower edge of the hoops; when doing this, the drum shell should not lean forwards or towards the player. To retain the settings of the spurs, the bass drum spurs for height adjustment are fitted with memory clips (that remain in position at dismantling too.) You must use the drum key to fix the screws.
Now you can push the assembled bass drum pedal onto the clamping ring and fix it with the claw. Use some gaffa tape to protect the hoop from scratching.
Now, there's only the tom racks. There are different designs. The tom holder – that's the clamp for the tom arms on the bass drum – is intended for one or two tom arms.
This means that if only one tube fits in, there is an adapter for both tom arms. Our tom holder takes both tom arms directly.
Here too, there are memory clips that have a cutout. Here, the clip not only "remem‐ bers" how far you put the tube in but also at what angle.
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Setting up the drum set
Bass drum and hi-hat
The snare drum is now between the drummer's knees and we will add the bass drum and hi-hat stands. The bass drum and hi-hat pedals are placed where the drummer's feet rest naturally when they are in a normal upright seated position. In this connec‐ tion the knees must not touch the snare drum.
The bass drum with pedal comes on the right-hand side – and the hi-hat stand on the left-hand one. The two pedals form a V shape pointing towards the stool. Positioning the snare, bass drum and hi-hat elements is very important. The rest of the set results almost automatically from this.
The lower hoop of the snare drum should be just above the bass drum's hoop.
The hanging toms are next. Put the tom shell in the bracket arm and screw it tight.
Mount the smaller tom to the left of the drummer and the larger one to their right. As with the snare drum the heights and angles of the toms depend on the height at which the drummer is seated. In this connection, it should be possible to play the drumstick as parallel as possible to the head.
With small people, the tom should be angled more than with larger ones. Mount both toms at the same height and the same angle. They should not sit on the bass drum or touch one another.
Now there's just the floor tom. Set up the floor tom next to your right thigh. When doing this, ensure that there is enough space between the snare drum and the floor tom. Your leg must have enough space to the left and the right.
The height of the floor tom depends on the height of the snare drum. Both hoops should be at the same height. The floor tom's head is not angled; rather, it is hori‐ zontal. Viewed from above, the snare drum, the hanging toms and the floor tom are aligned in a V shape.
The drum set of the Mx200 series also includes some transparent plastic rings – these are damper rings. They are only placed on the toms and the snare drum (they fit exactly). These unprepossessing rings have a remarkable effect – just try them out.
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Attaching the cymbals
12 Attaching the cymbals
Our drum set is starting to take shape. We've already found the position of the hi-hat stand. What's missing now is attaching the hi-hat cymbals and adjusting the height.
Attaching the hi-hat cymbals
First place a metal washer and the felt disk on the hi-hat stand. Then the bottom cymbal (labelled "bottom"). Lie it freely onto the stand's felt disk.
We have to make some preparations for the top cymbal (labelled "top"). The top cymbal is fitted with a hi-hat clutch. To do this, turn the holder upside down and lay it in the palm of your hand. Now put on a felt disk, the top cymbal (with the dome downwards), another felt disk, a washer and the screw connection.
Now push the top cymbal over the pull rod such that it lies loosely on the bottom hat.
Now adjust the height of the stand such that the bottom of the hi-hat cymbal is about the width of your hand above the snare drum's hoop.
Now tread the hi-hat pedal half way down and tighten the wing screw of the hi-hat clutch.
Attaching the ride and crash cymbals
The ride cymbal is placed on the right between the floor tom and the right-hand hanging tom. To do this, we use the straight cymbal stand. As with the hi-hat, you screw the cymbal between two felt disks. Now position the cymbal such that you can comfortably reach it with your drumstick it doesn't hit the shell.
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Attaching the cymbals
You set up the boom cymbal stand on the left in front of the snare drum. You screw the crash cymbal between the felt disks in the same way as with the other cymbals.
Now you can easily set the cymbal on the boom arm such that it is easy to play and doesn't hit anything else.
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Attaching the cymbals
Now all the parts are in place and you can start to play.
Have lots of fun with your new drum set.
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Protecting the environment
13 Protecting the environment
Disposal of the packaging material
For the transport and protective packaging, environmentally friendly materials have been chosen that can be supplied to normal recycling.
Ensure that plastic bags, packaging, etc. are properly disposed of.
Do not just dispose of these materials with your normal household waste, but make sure that they are collected for recycling. Please follow the notes and markings on the packaging.
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Musikhaus Thomann · Hans-Thomann-Straße 1 · 96138 Burgebrach · Germany · www.thomann.de
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