Ford Tractor 2N, 9N Service Manual

 You will find outlined
your tractor,
The Ford Tractor with Ferguson System is a fine, precision-built ma-
chine, designed for efficient performance, economy and ease of operation.
Although it is unusually rugged and capable of hard service, it should
not be abused or neglected.
Daily routine care of the tractor is of utmost importance, If this care
is given conscientiously, about 90 per cent of the service difficulties can
be eliminated. |
There is nothing difficult or mysterious about the operation and main-
tenance of a Ford Tractor. The suggestions and operations outlined in
this manual will guide you to long, trouble-free service.
By following them, you will keep your tractor in good condition and
avoid abuses likely to cause damage.
DIRT is the number one tractor enemy.
The Ford Tractor is equipped with an air cleaner to prevent dirt and
dust from entering the engine. It will do a 100 per cent job if it is given
proper care.
The electrical connections — battery, spark plugs, wiring and dis-
tributor — must be kept clean to operate efficiently. Dirt and oil in these
parts cause “shorts”, resulting in the loss of power, and hence unsatis-
factory operation of the engine.
Cleanliness pays big dividends. Proper storage and clean handling of
fuel, oil and grease will prevent dirt from getting into your tractor.
Engine overheating in many cases is due to dirt, bugs or chaff in the
radiator core.
While an experienced mechanic can carry out the repair operations
described, it is strongly recommended that the repairs be made by fac-
tory-trained men, employed by Ferguson Dealers.
It will pay you to read the operation and maintenance section of this
book completely, to be sure that you are thoroughly familiar with its
contents. These repair instructions also may benefit those operators who
are situated a long distance from their Dealer, If there are any points on
which you are not clear, your Ferguson Dealer will be glad *
1, in this book, instructions for the daily care of
BELT PULLEY — DRAWBAR . . . . . . . . . . 39
Belt Pulley
Drawbar
BRAKES. . . . ао 56
Brake and Clutch Pedal
Brakes -
Brake Shoes
CLUTCH 2 1 1 1 2 1 114 411444122110 à
Qiuteh Disc
Replacing the Clutch
Clutch Release Bearing
Clutch Pilot Bearing
Clutch Pedal Adjustment
COOLING SYSTEM . e A
Radiator
Removing Hood Assembly
Removing the Radiator
Replacing the Grille
Fan and Fan Belt
Water Pump
Disassembling Water Pump
Care of Cooling System
Anti-Freeze
Anti-Freeze Chart
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM . . 2. 12412220 HH
Distributor
Reassembling Distributor
The Starter Motor
Replacing the Starter Spring
The Starter Switch
Spark Plugs
Generator
Ammeter
Battery
Testing Battery
ENGINE. . 1. 1 1111114 4111042222. 23
Cylinder Block
Cylinder Head
Hiustration of Engine
To Remove Cylinder Head
To Remove Carbon from Cylinder Head and Pistons
Piston Pin
Piston Ring
Valve Seat Inserts
Cast Steel Pistons
Cylinder Sleeves
Connecting Rods
Connecting Rod Bearings
Camshaft and Gear Assembly
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Bearings
Rear Bearing Oil Seal
Flywheel and Ring Gear Assembly
Valve Push Rods
Valves
Valve Guide Bushing
Ol Pump
Manifold and Muffler
FERGUSON IMPLEMENTS . . . . . . . . . . 62-63
FERGUSON SHARES, SHOVELS, SWEEPS . . . . 61
Page
FERGUSON SYSTEM . . . e 39
Disassembly of the Hydraulic Mechanism
Disassembly of Lift Mechanism
Illustration of Ferguson Hydraulic System
Disassembling the Hydraulic Pump
Hydraulic Control Lever
Adjusting the Quadrant
Adjustment of the Master Control Spring
FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . 18
Fuel Tank
Fuel Filter
Carburetor
Governor
Air Cleaner
LUBRICATION SYSTEM. es 8
Ol Filler Cap
Où Pan Drain Plug
Oil Filter
Transmission, Hydraulic Mechanism and Differential
Wheels
OPERATING THE TRACTOR . . . 3
Fifteen Minutes a Day Will Keep Trouble Away
Operating the Tractor Safely
Starting the Engine
Driving the Tractor
POWER TAKE-OFF . . . . . . . . . . . .... 57
Power Take-Off Assembly
REAR AXLE 2.1 . . . . 1..2... ..... 44
Replacing Axle Shafts
Axle Shaft Bearing Replacements
Differential Gear and Pinion Replacements
Reconditioning Differential Assembly
Reassembling the Differential
Disassembly of the Drive Pinion
Replacing Pinion Bearings
Drive Pinion Roller Bearings
Lower Link Support
REMOVING THE TRACTOR FROM STORAGE . 60
RULES FOR SAFE TRACTOR OPERATION, Back Cover
SPECIFICATIONS © © ©. 4
Cutaway of Tractor
Specifications — Ford Tractor with Ferguson System
Lubrication Chart
Maintenance Schedule
STEERING AND AXLE ASSEMBLIES. . . . . . 39
Timing Steering Sectors
Removing the Upper Steering Housing
Removal of Upper and Lower Steering Housings
Front Wheel Hub
Spindle Assembly
Front Axle Pin Bushings
Rear Wheels
STORING THE TRACTOR. . . . . . . . . 60
TRANSMISSION . . . . . . . . . . «..... 35
Removing the Transmission
Disassembling the Transmission
Transmission Assembly Parts
Reassembline Transmission
WARRANTY. . . aaa eee BA
ACTOR SAFELY
A good tractor operator recognizes in ample time
the conditions which might cause trouble or damage.
He takes the necessary precautions to prevent such
things from happening. A good tractor operator
makes sure everything is right before starting the
engine. He will:
1. Remove dirt and grime from all electrical
connections.
2. Clean air cleaner, top and bottom.
3. Check oil filler cap — wash in gasoline if
necessary. |
4. Clean dirt and trash from radiator fins. Fill
radiator with clean, soft water. |
. Clean all grease fittings — then lubricate.
5
6. Check engine oil level with dip stick.
7. Check transmission oil level with dip stick.
8
. Fill the gas tank with clean fuel of proper
grade.
9. Check rubber tires for correct inflation and
inspect for damage.
10. Check all bolts and nuts for tightness.
STARTING THE ENGINE
The gearshift lever must be in neutral position
before the safety starter will operate.
Set throttle four or five notches from top and
turn on ignition switch.
Pull choke out and hold for an instant only, while
the starter cranks the engine. Cold weather will re-
quire holding the choke slightly longer.
Do not race the engine after it starts. Operate at
a slow speed so the oil may have a chance to start
circulating freely,
— gear. Shift to a lower
See that the oil pressure gage on dash properly
registers.
Allow the engine to warm thoroughly before put-
ting it to work. Working a cold engine causes con-
densation, and increases formation of sludge and
corrosion,
À good test in cold weather i is to see that fumes
are coming out of the oil filler cap before starting
the engine to work. This insures that the moisture
inside is being vaporized and is passing out of the
engine. It may be necessary to cover the radiator
in very cold weather to speed warming up of engine,
Failure to warm the engine thoroughly and to
keep the oil filler cap clean will result in rapid
‘moisture condensation and the formation of sludge,
which causes rapid wear of all moving parts.
DRIVING THE TRACTO
Push the clutch pedal clear down.
Move the gearshift lever to the desired gear posi-
tion. Do not force gears if they clash or grind. Do
not shift when the tractor is in motion.
Open the throttle from four to ten notches, de-
pending upon the load
Engage clutch smoothly and gently.
Operate the tractor at a speed that is reasonable
for the conditions. Excessive speed saves very little
*
‘time and it usually causes high maintenance on
both tractor and implement.
Descend steep grades slowly. Keep the tractor in
gear if necessary. Do not
coast. When using brakes, apply equally.
When operating over rough ground, obstructions
or ditches, shift to a lower gear and drive slowly.
Set both brakes securely when parking on a grade
or doing belt work.
“Ground” the tractor with a steel bar or cable
when operating a belt-driven machine,
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ENGINE
Piston | displacement 119, 7 cu. in. “Compression r ratio — $ to 1.
Removable cylinder liners. Valve inserts for both intake and
exhaust ports. Full floating piston pins. Fully counterbalanced
crankshaft. Replaceable shell-type main and connecting rod
‘bearings.
HORSEPOWER — Maximum belt hp — 23.87.
hp (85% of maximum) — 20.20.
DRAWBAR CAPACITY — 2 — 14” plows with Ferguson
hydraulically-operated implements. Maximum drawbar with-
Rated belt
out Ferguson hydraulic system of control — 16.90 hp. Rated
drawbar hp (75% of maximum) — — 12.68.
GOVERNOR — Variable speed, mechanically-operated, cen-
trifugal type. Governor regulation from 400 to 2000 rpm.
LUBRICATION — By gear pump supplying direct pressure
piling to crankshaft, camshaft and connecting г
also to timing gears, Craniccase oil capacity ~~ 6 quarts, Allow
additional oil for absorption by new filter cartridge. Pressure
gage on instrument panel.
OIL FILTER
IGNITION — Direct-driven distributor in unit with coil in
waterproof housing. Fully automatic spt irk advance. Stand-
ard 14-m,m. spark plugs. |
GENERATOR — 6-volt heavy-duty type with third brush
control.
— Replaceable cartridge-type of large capacity.
STARTER — 6-volt conventional type automobile starter.
Safety starter switch mechapically interlocked with gearshift
lever.
BATTERY — 6-volt — 83 ampere-hour capacity.
COOLING — Pump circulation of water through tube and
fin type of radiator. Fan — 6-blade 187 driven by belt. Pump
is packless type with prelubricated bearings. Cooling system
capacity — 14 U.S. quarts. Thermostat temperature control.
FUEL SUPPLY — Welded steel tank carried in engine hood,
capacity 8 gallons plus 1 gallon reserve. Fuel filter is standard
equipment.
CARBURETOR — Up draft, plain tube type of sturdy, dust-
proof construction. External adjustments for both main and
idling jets.
AIR CLEANER — Oil-bath type with dust receptacle easily
removable for cleaning.
FFELER — Reverse-flow type.
CLUTCH — Single dry plate 9" effective diameter, Clutch
plate pressure increased by centrifugal farce as engine speed
is increased.
TRANSMISSION —. Extra heavy-duty, easy shifting, sliding
gear type. Three speeds forward and one reverse. All shafts
mounted on tapered roller bearings.
FINAL DRIVE... Spiral bevel gear deve with straddle-
mounted pinion 6.66 to 1 ratio, Four-pinion differential
mounted on tapered roller bearings. Axle of the semi-floating
type with integral axle shafts and wheel hubs, also mounted
on tapered roller bearings.
od bearings,
ON SYSTEM
Final Gear Speeds at
Transmission Speeds
© Reduction 1400 В.Р.М.
LOW. i ees ee .. 733 tnd 2.51 mph
Intermediate (plowing). ........ 57 tol 3.23 mph
High. ss. 1244 a 44 4e sa 44 a sea 0046 246toi 7.48 mph
Reverse... ...exorerxano mahonesa 68.4 to 1 2.69 mph
Note: At top gaverned speed the tractor can be oper-
ated at 3.59 mph in low year, 4.62 mph in intermediate,
and 10. 20 mph in high. &
STEERING — Bevel pinion and twin bevel sectors control-
ie both front wheels independently, Tread of front axle
adjustable without disturbing any steering connections. Rub-
ber-covered steel steering wheel 18” in diameter.
WER TAKE-OFF ~ Shaft extends from rear of axle
housing Has 1147 spline end for fitting to drives of power-
driven equipment. 509 rom at engine speed of 1400 rpm —
2.75 to 1 ratio.
BRAKES ~ 14722" internal expanding, two shoe, fully ener-
gizing type. One simple accessible adjustment on each brake.
Brakes operate independently on each rear wheel controlled
by separate pedals to facilitate short turning.
WHEELS — Front — Steel disc fitted with 4x19 single rib
pneumatic tires on drop center rim, 26 lbs. tire pressure.
Rear — Steel disc fitted with 10228 traction tread pneumatic
tires on drop center rim, 12 ibs. tire pressure.
HYDRAUL
4-cylinder pump supply oil under suitable pre pressure to ram
cylinder. Valve has manual and automatic control. Control
lever convenient to the operator's right hand gives instant
— control of the implement,
WBAR — Adjustable type. Included as standard equip-
DIMENSIONS —
Normal Tread — Front, 48”; rear, 52°.
Wheelbase — 70".
Over-all Length — Front to end of lower link — 1157,
Front Tread — Adjustable, by means of extending axle ends
and reversing front wheel discs from 48” to 76” in 4” steps.
Rear Tread — Adjustable, by means of reversible wheel disc
and reversible tire rims from 48” to 76” in 4” steps.
Over-all Width — 647 with normal tread.
Over-all Height — 52°.
Ground Clearance — 21” under axles — 13” under center,
Turning Radius — 8 ft. with use of brakes.
Shipping Weight — Approximately 2260 lbs.
EXTRA EQUIPMENT
BELT PULLEY — Carried by self-contained drive unit
quickly attachable to rear of tractor. Pulley diameter — 97;
width — 8.57. Speed 1358 rpm, belt speed 3200 ft. per minute
at 2000 rpm engine speed, Pulley gear ratio to power take-off
shaft — 1.87 to 1. Rotates in either direction,
LIGHTING SYSTEM — Includes 2 headlamps, tail lamp
with license plate bracket, switch and all necessary wiring.
The Ford Motor Company, whose policy is one of continuous improvement, reserves
the right to change specifications, design or prices without incurring obligation.
5
Fig. 1
LUBRICATION
ENGINE OIL
Use 8.A.E, 30 for temperatures above 90°
Use SA.E. 20 for temperatures between 32° and 90°
Use SA.E. 20W for temperatures between 10° and 32°
Use SA.E. 10W for temperatures between --10” and 10°
Ll TRANSMISSION, HYDRAULIC MECHANISM AND DIFFERENTIAL OIL
For temperatures above freezing, use straight mineral oil 5S.A.E. 90 :
For temperatures below freezing, use straight mineral oil 5S.4.E. 80
€ PRESSURE GUN LUBRICANT
O GREASE -
Use high-grade short fiber grease
HYDRAULIC MECHANISM AND
TRANSMISSION FILLING PLUG
TRANSMISSION AND HYDRAULIC
OIL DIPSTICK LOCATED IN RIGHT
HAND INSPECTION PLATE
\ SEDIMENT DIP STICK
ENGINE OIL \ BOWL
FILLER \ |
REPACK WITH SHORT \| ENGINE DRAIN 7
FIBRE GREASE ON PLUG Иа
WATER DRAIN £3 HYDRAULIC MECHANISM
PLUGS AND TRANSMISSION DRAIN PLUGS
LUBRICATE EVERY 10 HOURS DO NOT LUBRICATE WHERE NO PROVISION
UBRICATE EVERY 10 HOURS Fig. 2 HAS BEEN MADE FOR LUBRICATION
Make the following
operation.
Fifteen Minutes a Day Will Keep Trouble Away
inspections a part of your day — it will pay you dividends in long, trouble-free tractor
Keep the tractor clean — remove dirt before lubricating grease fittings and inspecting filler caps. Distributor
cap, spark plugs and all electrical connections must be clean to operate efficiently.
Laub. Page
Time Chart Maintenance Operation Number
AIR CLEANER — (Capacity 1 pint.) Clean and refill lower bowl with same oil used in 18
engine. Clean top screen, wash in gasoline if oily.
о UBRICATE — Grease fittings with grease gun. 6
CRANECASE — Check oil dip stick — keep oil within working range as shown on dip stick. 3
Change oil when oil is dark enough to prevent easy reading of letters on dip stick. Capacity
6 quarts. Allow additional oil for absorption by new filter cartridge.
OIL FILLER CAP — Inspect and clean — wash in gasoline when dirty. 9
Each FUEL OR SEDIMENT BULB — Check for water and sediment. Clean bulb and strainer 16
Morning if necessary.
i] DIFFEREN TIAL AND TRANSMISSION « {Capacity 5 gallons.) Examine dip stick 10
and keep oil to high level.
COOLING SYSTEM — (Capacity 14 quarts.) Keep filled with clean soft water or anti- 22
freeze.
BATTERY — Remove dirt or dust collection. Check water level in battery, Keep generator 15
charging rate to lowest point that will keep battery fully charged —. an excessive charging
rate boils away the solution.
Moon EXAMINE AIR CLEANER when working in dusty conditions. Clean when necessary. 18
Every BELT PULLEY — Examine and refill if necessary every 60 hours — same oil as used for 58
20 hydraulic mechanism,
to ‚ че La ,
60 8 FRONT WHEEL HU BE BEARINGS ~ Lubricate with grease gun every 20 hours. 53
ras ALL BOLTS AND NUTS — Check all bolts and nuts for tightness every 20 hours for
first week when tractor is new and every 60 hours thereafter.
Г TRANSMISSION, HYDRAULIC MECHANISM AND DIFFERENTIAL — Change 10
oil in a new tractor after first 200 hours — thereafter every 600 hours.
ENGINE OIL — Change not less than every 200 hours — or when où shows dark on stick. 6
Every CHANGE OIL FILTER — When engine oil is changed. 10
100 o ,
to O FRONT WHEE] UB BEARINGS — Not equipped with grease fittings — pack with 53
600 short fber £ grease each season and adjust wheel bearings correctly.
Working
Hours REAR GENERATOR BEARING ~ Oil every 300 hours. 14
AIR CLE ANER — Remove complete assembly — thoroughly clean with gasoline. In 18
extreme dust conditions, clean every 100 hours.
FLUSH RADIATOR — Every 100 to 200 hours, or at least twice a year. 22
The most important lesson a tractor operator can
learn is the value of correct lubrication. Lack of it
has ruined more tractors than any other cause.
The Ford engine is precision-built and fitted to
very close limits. Lubricants must be capable of
penetrating these closely fitted parts quickly and
maintaining their lubricating qualities under all
operating temperatures. We recommend that only
high-grade lubricants of known quality be used and
in the right amounts.
Engineers have made a careful study to determine
what type of lubricant will most effectively combat
friction and reduce heat in the various units. The
recommendations listed in our lubricating charts
are the result of long study and experience.
The engine is lubricated by pressure feed to the
Fig. 3
main, connecting rod and camshaft bearings and
by splash to other parts. The gear type of oil pump
housing is cast integral with the front main bearing
cap, and the pump is driven from the crankshaft
gear of the timing gear set.
Oil pressure relief and regulating valve, illustrated
in Figure 4, lifts at a thirty-pound pressure. When
operating properly, a gage pressure of fifteen to
thirty pounds will show on the dash, depending
upon the temperature of the oil and speed of the
engine,
The oil in the engine, when shipped from the fac-
tory, is satisfactory for the first thirty hours. After
this period of operation, the engine oil should be
drained and replaced with new oil of the correct
viscosity as shown in the lubrication chart.
RICATION SYSTEM
Check the oil filler cap daily. Wash in gasoline to
insure proper breather action and to prevent
OIL FILLER CAP
accumulation of dirt.
UT
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Fig. 4 — Oil Relief Valve
Fig. 5
RAIN PLUG
The oil pump screen is an integral part of the oil
pan drain plug, Part 6730, Figure 5. Each time,
when changing the oil, it is suggested that this
screen be cleaned in gasoline to prevent accumula-
tion of sludge or foreign matter on the screen.
N SYSTEM
Change the oil and the
oil filter cartridge when-
ever the oil begins to show
dark on the dip stick. In
no case, should they be
changed less frequently
than every two hundred
hours. Make sure, in re-
placing the oil filter car-
tridge, that all connections
are tight and that the
gasket fits perfectly.
Pig. 9 — Oil Pressure Gage (Right)
10
Immediately upon starting the engine, check the
oil pressure gage to see that it registers. It should
show from fifteen to thirty pounds, depending upon
the temperature and the speed of the engine. If
gage does not register, stop engine immediately and
locate cause.
Examine the transmission dip stick daily, as
shown in Figure 10. Change oil in a new tractor after
the first two hundred hours, thereafter every six
hundred hours. Capacity is five gallons. It is im-
portant that all three drain plugs (shown in Figure
2) be removed when draining the oil.
Follow the recommendation listed in the lubrica-
tion chart, page 6. Make sure the oil is of high
quality.
Fig. 10 — Transmission, Hydraulic Mechanism
and Differential Dip Stick
HEELS
The rear wheel bearings are lubricated by the
transmission, hydraulic mechanism and differential
oil.
Front wheels should be lubricated through zerk
fittings every twenty hours. Late model tractor
front wheel bearings have no zerk fittings. These
bearings should be cleaned, repacked and adjusted
to the correct tightness at the start of every season.
Use a good grade of short fiber grease. It is sug-
gested that they be inspected in the middle of each
season for the quality and cleanliness of the lubri-
cant. See Wheel Section, page 53, for instructions
on repacking and adjusting front wheel bearings.
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RESISTOR
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DISTRIBUTOR
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Fig. 11 — Wiring Diagram
Figure 11 illustrates the complete electrical sys-
tem. Note that the colors of the wires are indicated
to help you determine where each wire is attached.
The electrical system consists of the coil, distribu-
tor, spark plugs, battery, generator, starter and
necessary wiring for connecting these units. In
order to cause a spark inside the cylinders of the
engine, it is necessary to change the low voltage
from the battery to high voltage which will have
sufficient power to jump the spark plug gap under
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12200- ASS'Y
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Fig. 13 — Distributor Parts
11
Fig. 12 -— Distributor
Remove the distributor whenever it is necessary
to give it and its various units a thorough inspection.
The distributor cap can be easily removed, after
releasing the distributor coil bail, Part 12137, un-
snapping the two spring clamps, Part 12144, and
pulling the spark plug lead wires away from the cap.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
It is good practice to examine the cap at regular
intervals for evidence of arcing caused by cracks,
carbon runners and corroded high tension terminals.
Before replacing, the cap should be thoroughly
cleaned. Any carbon runners should be removed and
the inside of the cap coated with high-grade shellac.
The complete distributor assembly is attached to
the engine by two cap screws. The distributor
should be removed whenever it is necessary to in-
spect the breaker points, the rotor, or the condenser.
Examine the rotor, Part 12200 Assembly, care-
fully for cracks or excessive burning at the end of
the metal strip. If evidence of burning is found at
the top of the strip, or the distributor cap points,
or if the breaker points are noticeably burned or
pitted, these parts should be replaced.
Fig. 14 — Breaker Point Ad justment
The spark must occur at the proper time in rela-
tion to piston travel and opening of the valves 1n
order to secure the utmost efficiency from the engine.
This is controlled by the opening and closing of the
breaker points, and by the position of the timing
plate.
Figure 14 shows that .015 is the correct gap for
the breaker points, with the heel of breaker arm
on the high position of the distributor cam. Use a
feeler gage to adjust the gap and after this has
been properly set, retighten the breaker point screw,
Part 350101-57-8. Always recheck the gap after
tightening the screw. The breaker point should
be aligned so as to make contact near the center
of the contact surfaces. |
Inspect the condenser contact — clean and tighten
the connections to the terminal post. Make certain
that the condenser is firmly mounted to the base.
12
lightly before
It is not advisable to attempt a repair to the dis-
tributor governor mechanism unless suitable test
equipment is available on which the governor ad-
vance can be checked. This instrument should show
the spark advance in degrees corresponding to the
various distributor speeds.
e:
Fig. 15 — Spark Adjustment
Figure 15 shows an adjustment to advance and
retard the spark. Move breaker plate toward coil to
retard spark, or move away from coil to advance
spark.
It is not advisable to attempt to change the ad-
justment of the spark advance unless you have the
advice of a factory-trained mechanic. Attempted
adjustment by an inexperienced man may result in
very poor performance and damage to the working
parts of the engine.
Clean all parts thoroughly and oil the shaft
placing in the housing. Make sure
that the distributor base spring, Part 12146, is
firmly in place and see that the breaker plate is on
the exact mark as when disassembled. Tighten the
timing plate screw. Inspect the gasket between the
coil and the distributor, making sure that it is dry
and fits perfectly. Replace the cap; attach dis-
tributor to engine. Note that the driving slot in the
camshaft is slightly off center so as to eliminate the
possibility of incorrect engagement.
Make sure that the driving tongues of the dis-
tributor are fully entered in the slot of the camshaft
before tightening the two cap screws.
ELECT]
REN
THE STARTER MOTOR
The starter motor is bolted to the upper left side
of the flywheel housing and can be removed from
the engine by taking out two bolts after first re-
moving the oil filter,
Fig. 16 — Starter Motor
Pull the starter motor forward and at the same
time tilt it in toward the engine slightly, so the
starter drive will clear the flywheel. The starter
motor and starting drive are removed as a complete
unit.
REPLACING THE PORTE SPRING
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Fig. 17 — Starter Motor Parts
RICAL SYSTEM
plished by pressing down on anchor plate, Part
11372, against the compression of the spring, Part
11375, while removing the retainer ring, Part 11373.
Continue to press down on anchor plate and remove
the pin, Part 11365, which goes completely through
the body of the starter drive and armature shaft.
This pin may be pushed out of the hole from either
end.
Removal of this pin will release the anchor plate,
Part 11372, and spring, Part 11375, The |
balance of
the starter drive assembly can then be slipped off
the armature shaft. In the event it is necessary to
replace either of the internal springs, Part 11368 or
11369, remove the retainer ring, Part 11370, which
seats in the groove in the end of the pinion and
barrel assembly, Part 1 1367.
If the screw shaft assembly, Part 11366, is dam-
aged in any way, the entire assembly must be
replaced. Surplus oil or grease, or any dust on the
triple threads retards normal meshing action, par-
ticularly in cold weather. To clean triple thread,
rotate the pinion barrel to full meshing position,
compressing the drive springs. Wipe exposed thread
with a cloth wet with kerosene. If the dirt is thick
Cand gummy, apply kerosene to the thread with a
small brush, then work pinion back and forth
several times and rewipe the thread.
Further disassembly of starter motor should not
be attempted unless complete electrical test equip-
ment is available. With such equipment, the usual
procedure can be followed to determine whether the
field coils are shorted or open, leads properly
soldered, and whether the armature is suitable for
further use. The bushings in the end bracket should
also be examined and, if badly worn, the complete
end bracket should be replaced.
When the реках presses the starter button, the
contact in the starter switch closes the circuit so
The various parts of the starter motor, as well as
the starter drive assembly, are shown in the relative
assembly position in Figure 17. To disassemble the
starter motor, the starter drive must first be re-
moved from the armature shaft. This is accom-
Fig. 18- se Safety $ Starter Switch
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
that current flows to the starter motor.
The current causes the armature to revolve and
engage the pinion on the end of the armature shaft
to the ring gear on the flywheel.
Figure 18 shows why it is impossible to start the
engine with the transmission in gear, You will note
that the shaft of the starter button has to pass
through a hole in the shifter lock underneath. This
hole is only in its correct position when the gear-
shift lever is in neutral.
SPARK PLUGS
The spark plugs should be examined frequently
for carbon deposits, burned points, and for cracked
or broken porcelains. A dirty spark plug decreases
the efficiency of the engine and causes it to use an
excessive amount of fuel. For best results, spark
plugs should be taken to the dealer for cleaning on
his sand blast machine. This should be done every
200 hours, or more often if carbon deposits appear.
A feeler gage should be used to measure the gap.
The gap should be from .025 to .028. When making
this gap adjustment, bend the outside electrode
rather than the center one, to prevent cracking of
the center porcelain. It is advisable to install new
spark plugs every five hundred working hours.
Make sure that the connections are tight and keep
the cables in good condition. Never allow moisture
to collect around the spark plug wells in the head.
Remove any such moisture before starting the
engine,
cooled by fan blast. The generator 18 attached to
the engine by one bolt. It is very important that
this bolt be kept tight, since the position of the
generator determines the correct fan belt adjust-
ment. Figure 47, page 21, shows the correct adjust-
Fig. 20 — Adjusting Generator Output
ment of the fan belt. The output of the generator
ranges from 4 to 16 amperes. The output is con-
trolled by the position of the third brush. Figure 20
shows adjusting generator output with a coin. Note
the arrows on the backplate of the generator, show-
ing the directions to turn the adjusting screw in
order to increase or decrease the charging rate. It is
advisable to use a coin rather than a screw driver to
avoid putting too much twist on the adjusting screw.
Always keep the charging rate at the lowest
possible point that will keep the battery fully
charged. Many batteries are ruined because the
charging rate is set too high. A high charging rate
will cause the battery solution to boil away.
Should the generator stop charging suddenly, the
engine should be stopped immediately. Upon dis-
assembling the generator end plate, you may find
that the armature is covered with grease that has
melted and passed back from the front bearing of
the generator. This grease insulates the armature
and stops it from charging. In many cases, after
wiping off the armature thoroughly and reassem-
bling the end plate, the generator will start charging
again.
To facilitate removal of the generator rear end
plate and avoid clipping the brushes, the tension of
the springs should be released from the brushes.
This can be done quickly and easily by having a
small hooked screw driver to lift the springs and at
the same time pull the brushes partly out of the
brackets and let the springs down so the tensions
rest upon the side of the brush rather than the top.
When reinstalling the generator rear end plate,
the brushes and springs should be positioned as
described above. Make sure that the brushes are
properly seated on the commutator and the springs
properly placed on top of the brushes after the
assembly has been completed.
ig. 21 — Generator
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Fig. 22
The ammeter on the dash registers the charging
rate of the generator. The charging rate is from 4
to 16 amperes, but keep this charging rate to the
lowest possible point consistent with maintaining a
full battery charge. |
BATTERY
The battery is a six-volt, thirteen-plate unit and
has a capacity of 83-ampere hours at 20-hour rate.
This means that the battery will maintain slightly
more than a 4-ampere output rate for 20 hours.
Fig, 23 — Battery
The battery is located under the hood and it is
readily accessible for inspection and refilling with
distilled water. It is advisable to check the battery
at least once a week with a hydrometer and refill
each cell with distilled water. Water should be
15
added until it is level with the top of the filler hole,
inasmuch as the battery is fitted with a valve which
automatically establishes the correct level for the
battery solution. This is illustrated in Figure 24.
Avoid holding down the rubber bellows, since
this defeats the purpose of the self-leveling valve
and permits the battery to become overfilled.
When the battery is being recharged out of the
tractor, the caps must be in place in order to permit
the gases to escape through the vent holes.
TESTING BATTERY
It pays to test a battery with a hydrometer. The
reading indicates the condition of the battery.
Do not attempt to take a reading from a cell
which has had water added to it until after the
tractor has been driven at least 30 minutes.
If readings of 1225 or less are obtained, the bat-
tery is not sufficiently charged and should either be
recharged or replaced. Such a low reading is an
indication that a faulty condition may exist in the
charging circuit or battery. It is, therefore, essential
that a thorough check be made at once to determine
the cause,
If the battery has been discharged by leaving the
lights or ignition switch turned on, it may be re-
charged by normal operation.
If readings above 1250 are obtained, the battery
is fully charged, and it will merely be necessary to
add distilled water. a
When replacing the battery in the tractor, make
sure that the battery-to-body ground strap is con-
nected to the positive terminal, which is marked
with a big plus sign (+) on the battery.
Disconnect ground strap first when removing
battery and last when installing battery.
The tractor fuel system consists of a fuel tank,
fuel filter, air cleaner, fuel line and carburetor.
The tank is attached to the underside of the
hood and has a capacity of ten gallons (nine main
and one reserve), The filler cap is at the top of the
tank and is easily accessible under the hood cover.
The air vent is built into the top of the tank and
located under the hood. The fuel tank requires no
special attention, but can be removed by discon-
necting at points marked “A,” as shown in Figure
25. |
Fig, 25 — Gas Tank in Underside of Hood
FUEL FILTER
Fuel is supplied by gravity from the tank, flowing
through the fuel filter. The filter valve controls the
two supply lines from the tank. The tractor should
always be operated with the valve turned to main
supply line. Thus a portion of the fuel {one gallon)
is held in reserve for emergency.
It is advisable to drain the reserve tank every 100
working hours to remove any sediment that may
have collected in the bottom of the tank. |
Occasionally it becomes necessary to clean the
fuel filter. Sediment bulb and filter screen may be
reached for cleaning by loosening sediment bulb
clamp. In replacing, make sure that there are no
leaks.
FROM
М Al N como
UPPLY
Fig. 25—
Fuel Filter with Valve Shown in “Off” Position
CARBURET(
The carburetor 1s the single up-draft plain tube
type of dust-proof construction,
The carburetor differs from others in that air can
enter only through the air cleaner.
The drain opening “A”, in Figure 28, in the bot-
Fig. 27 — Carburetor
16
the main jet adjusting
FUEL
tom of the carburetor allows manifold condensation
and excess fuel to escape. It is tightly packed with
curled hair and covered with a cup, so dirt and dust
cannot enter at this point.
IDLE MIXTURE
| ADJUSTING SCREW
r FLOAT VALYE
CHOKE POPPET VALVE A
A rm A
Fig. 28
The carburetor has two adjustments ~ the idling
adjustment and the main jet. The quantity of fuel
passing through the main jet is limited by a fixed
jet so that the adjustment functions through a range
sufficiently broad for operation in different condi-
tions. The approximate correct adjustment for the
main jet is open 14 turns from closed position.
Further refinements are obtained by observing the
operation of the engine. Too lean a mixture tends
to cut down power, overheat the engine and may
burn the valves.
A simple test for proper adjustment is to pull
down the throttle suddenly when the tractor has
an average or heavy load. Then note if the engine
speeds up at once without “coughing” or hesitating,
Should the engine hesitate, open the main jet an
eighth of a turn at a time until the engine will pee
up at once — evenly and steadily.
The idling jet adjustment serves to make the
engine run smoothly at idling speed. To adjust —
warm up engine — place throttle in “off” position,
then turn idling jet down or in. “Back off” approxi-
mately 214 turns — carefully noting the engine
operation. Continue to “back off” adjusting screw
until engine operates smoothly.
When it is desirable to disassemble the carburetor,
always first remove it from the manifold. Remove
screw, Part 9565, then dis-
assemble in the normal manner. Never attempt to
blow out a carburetor by connecting an air line to
17
3580435 E8—
Fig. 29 — Carburetor Parts
the fuel inlet — always disassemble and blow out
each part individually. When reassembling, always
use new gaskets,
At the fuel inlet connection, there is an elbow
strainer, Part 9553, shown in Figure 30, that should
be inspected and cleaned occasionally. This can be
done without removing the carburetor by discon-
necting the gas line from the carburetor.
The proper float setting is 5%" from gasket sur-
face to lower edge of float, with bowl center held
upside down.
The drain plug
at the bottom of the carburetor
should be removed and gasoline in sediment
chamber allowed to drain out every sixty working
hours. When replacing, tighten gently to stop
leakages.
FUEL SYSTEM
VE
The governor is variable speed, mechanically-
operated, interconnected with the throttle lever
and carburetor. This enables the operator to have
governor-regulated speed at any desired range,
from 400 to 2000 E.P.M,
Moving the throttle one notch on the quadrant
results in an engine speed change of approximately
75 to 80 R. P.M,
Automatic lubrication is provided by oil in the
gear case. Figure 31 shows a sectional view of the
governor. |
355940-5- >.
60... tpg ES)
9609
Fig. 32 Fig. 33
All air admitted to the carburetor must first pass
through the air cleaner.
The air cleaner is an oil-bath-type located under
the right side of the hood. It is equipped with a
pre-cleaner at the top which prevents chaff and
leaves from entering the cleaner. All air for the in-
take system passes through the oil bath bowl.
The pre-cleaner screen and oil bath should be in-
spected daily and cleaned if necessary. Screen
should be kept free from oil.
The oil cup assembly can be removed by loosen-
ing the clamp. Clean and refill with new engine oil
to proper oil level, as shown in Figures 32 and 34.
Do not permit any air leaks to occur between the
air cleaner and the carburetor. Check rubber hose
connection every 60 hours and replace when
necessary.
Fig. 31 — Cutaway of Governor
The governor seldom requires service; however,
if the governor operates unevenly after the car-
buretor setting has been checked and all the outside
connections have been thoroughly inspected and
“freed up”, the governor may be removed from the
engine. ‘ |
When service is required, it will usually be found
that the governor shaft is corroded or pitted, pre-
venting the upper race assembly, Part 18188, from
moving freely on the shaft. Use a fine grade of
emery paper to smooth the shaft, removing the
corrosion or pitted edges. Use every precaution to
prevent condensation in the engine, as it is conden-
sation that causes this corrosion.
Fig. 34 — Cleaning Oil Cup Assembly
The tractor cooling system consists of radiator,
fan, water pump and thermostat. It is essential that
any leakage which might occur in this system be
corrected as soon as possible,
The radiator is tube and fin type, with circula-
tion thermostatically-controlled.
Proper engine operating temperature is one of the
most important factors in getting best performance
and long life. This depends upon adequate water
jackets around the cylinders, as well as a radiator
and fan of ample capacity. The water must be kept
circulating after the engine temperature has been
brought up to the efficient operating point, and an
impeller-type water pump is included in the cooling
system for this purpose. Since it is desirable to re-
strict the flow of water to the radiator until the
engine has warmed up to an efficient operating tem-
perature, a thermostat, Figure 35, is placed in the
hose connection leading from the cylinder head to
the radiator. The thermostat consists of a butterfly
19
valve actuated by a bimetal spring, which remains
closed until the water reaches a temperature of
approximately 165° at which point the spring con-
tracts and opens the valve so the water can flow to
the radiator.
Figure 36 shows the functioning of the cooling
system.
The cooling system can be drained by opening
the drain cock located at the bottom of the radiator
core, and a drain cock on the left side of the cyl
inder block. Both drain cocks must be open to
drain the cooling system completely. Fourteen
quarts are required to refill the system.
REMOVING HOOD ASSEMBLY
The following steps should be done in the order
given:
Remove steering wheel, as shown in Figure 37,
with the use of a puller.
— Steering Wheel Pulling Tool
COOLING SYSTEM
ASH BOLTS
Fig, 39 — Hood Bolt on Dash
Remove the battery.
Loosen four bolts on the dash as shown in Figure
39. Remove gasoline line from the tractor, discon-
necting it at the tank and also at the carburetor
after the fuel valve has been turned to “off”
position.
Remove two bolts “A” that connect front axle
support to hood side panels. Then loosen the two
bolts 5”, as shown in Figure 40. This will allow the
Fig. 40 — Radiator Side Panel
plate, Part 8434, supporting the hood panels to the
front axle support assembly to be swung inward.
Lift front end of hood up as shown in Figure 41.
Be sure to lift the hood from the lower front end
until it is clear, in order to protect the radiator
overflow pipe, Figure 42. After the hood is lifted
to this position, so that it is clear of the radiator,
the rear end may be picked up and the whole
assembly removed entirely from the tractor, as
shown in Figure 43. |
In order to remove radiator it is necessary, first,
to remove hood, as described above.
The radiator is mounted on the front motor sup-
port and is protected from excessive shocks by
rubber insulating washers. There are only two bolts
© JC LING SYSTEM
Fig, 44
holding the radiator to the motor support, since it
is desirable in this type of unit to have a flexible
mounting which will not transmit strain and shock
to the radiator core. See Figures 44 and 46,
Drain the cooling system by opening the drain
cock at the bottom of the radiator core. Disconnect
both hoses. Radiator can then be lifted from the
tractor. Clean the radiator fins of dirt and trash
with air or water pressure. Care should be taken in
straightening fins to avoid injury to the tubes and
prevent breaking the bond of the fins to the tubes.
REPLACING THE GRILLE
When it is necessary to remove the grille, loosen
the bolts on the front motor support. Then remove
the bolts “A”, shown in Figure 46, and the grille
can be easily removed.
To reassemble, be sure to tighten bolts “A” first.
Then tighten the bolts in the front motor support
assembly plate.
Fig. 45
FAN AND FAN BELT
A six-blade fan is bolted directly to the pulley
which also drives the water pump. It is held in
place on the pulley by four cap screws.
Tension of the fan belt is controlled by the posi-
tion of the generator on the right side of the engine,
21
which is also driven by the fan belt. Figure 47 shows
there should be one-inc depressio on allowed when
the belt is pushed inward at a point : idway be-
tween the generator pulley and the crankshaft
pulley. To adjust this, loosen the generator support
bolt nut, shown in Figure 47, and move the g
ator outward until the proper tension is secured.
Make sure the E enerator Sup! ort bolt: nut is tight-
excessive eu a once a, wear in-
creases the length of the fan belt and later, in order
ig. 46
to tighten it sufficiently, it may be necessary to pull
the generator out to a position where it may be hit
by the radius rod when driving the tractor over
rough ground.
Fig, 47 we Correct Fan Belt Tension
The water pump is a prelubricated impeller type,
having a capacity of 25 gallons per minute at an
engine speed of 2000 R.P.M. All parts of the pump
in their correct position for assembly are illustrated
in Figure 49. (See next page.)
COOLING SYSTEM
Fig. 48 — Cross Section of Water Pump
To remove the pump from the engine, loosen the
generator support bolt nut, illustrated in Figure 47,
and push the generator toward the cylinder block
so that the fan belt can be slipped off the pump
pulley. | | e
8512
348065
203183
341478
27153 — 7
2038558
8297—
Fig, 49 — Water Pump Assembly Parts
Loosen the bottom hose connections and remove
the hose entirely. |
Disconnect the fan from the pump by removing
the four cap screws.
Remove the three cap screws which hold the
housing to the front of cylinder block, after which
the pump can be removed.
The disassembly of the water pump should not
be attempted unless there is a water pump tool kit
available. Special instructions covering the use of
In the absence of water pump tools, it is recom-
"mended that the complete pump be exchanged.
22
CARE OF COOLING SYSTEM
Precautionary measures against the forming of
rust or scale in the cooling system should be taken
to avoid trouble resulting from overheating. This
can be controlled to a great extent by making sure
that the water used in the cooling system is as
nearly neutral and free from minerals as possible.
In other words, it should have the minimum tend-
ency to rust or corrode the metal with which it
comes in contact.
In localities where alkaline, acid or saline waters
are the only kind available, the addition of a rust
inhibiter will tend to minimize the corrosive action
of such water. |
As an additional precaution against the forma-
tion of rust or scale, it is recommended that the
cooling system be flushed out twice a year. This
should be done in the fall before installing anti-
freeze solution and again in the spring when the
antifreeze 138 drained from the system. At the same
time, all hose connections should be checked care-
fully and tightened if necessary. Any hose that is
worn out should be replaced immediately.
ANTIFREEZE
Alcohol is the most commonly used antifreeze
solution, due to the fact it is inexpensive and readily
available. Other satisfactory fluids are ethylene-
glycol or radiator glycerine. The last-mentioned
materials are not subject to evaporation to such a
great extent as alcohol, but are considerably more
expensive. The Ford Motor Company does not
recommend the use of substances such as calcium
chloride, honey, glucose, sugar, kerosene or other
oils as an antifreeze.
Any one of the three first-mentioned materials is
usually available and in most cases it contains a
suitable inhibiter to control rust and corrosion.
RADIATOR ETHYLENE
ALCOHOL * GLYCERINE ** GLYCOL
20° 514 pts. 9 pts. 414 pts.
10°
0”
— 10°
—20°
—30°
815 pts.
1114 pts.
1244 pts.
1514 pts.
17 pts.
14 pts,
1814 pts.
21 pts.
24 pts.
2614 pts.
* Denatured (90% — 180 proof).
** 50% Concentration.
7 pts.
814 pts.
1114 pts.
1214 pts.
16%4 pts.
Fig. 50 — Sectional View of Engine
The engine is a 4-cylinder L-head type having a
counterbalanced, cast alloy crankshaft and cast
steel pistons. À sectional view of the engine is
ire >
YY
shown Mi Fig “e
“For me eturine limits of various ‘parts, see
page 32 of this book.
CYLINDER BLOCK
The cylinder block, upper half of the crankcase
and flywheel housing are cast in one piece. Water
jackets are full length, extending completely around
each cylinder and to the bottom of the cylinder
walls, as shown in Figure 53. ;
The main bearing caps are bored with each indi-
vidual block and must be kept matched with that
particular block. The oil pump housing is an integral
part of the front main bearing cap.
CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head is cast iron and is held in place
on the cylinder block by 15 short, 1 medium and 2
nd parts in their relative
long studs. A steel-covered asbestos cylinder head
gasket is used. A new gasket should be installed
whenever the cylinder head is removed for any
reason.
Fig. 51 — Engine
23
ENGINE
6384-——— re 7
1600-—— _
8814657
0 nn 6333
4 — 4306
/// ~14156-s
7 6319
D 6333
6603
—— 3522505
6211
— 6346
6310
6319
&608-ASSY
Fig. 52
24
Drain water from the block and radiator.
spark plugs, throttle control rod and wiring assem-
bly. Remove the upper radiator hose connections
and the oil filter from cylinder head.
When replacing the head, see that the surfaces are
perfectly clean and be sure to install a new head
gasket. |
It is important to tighten the cylinder head nuts
in proper order, Tighten center nut first, then the
corner nut, then the one at the diagonally opposite
corner, then the other two corners and the rest of
the nuts. The reason for tightening in this order is
to make quite sure that the cylinder head fits abso-
Fig. 54
25
engine has run for some time and is still hot.
Tighten with a torque-indicating wrench to 50 foot-
pound tension.
Scrape all the carbon from the cylinder block,
cylinder head, piston tops and valve heads with a
screw driver, putty knife or wire brush, as shown
in Figures 56 and 57. Take care that no carbon is
allowed to fall down around the valve stems or to
lodge between the valves and their seats, Wipe off
all the carbon carefully, especially around the
valves, then replace the cylinder head.
It is advisable to remove and examine the valves
when the carbon has been completely removed.
ENGINE
PISTON
The piston pins used in Ford four-cylinder en-
gines are manufactured to extremely close limits of
precision. This is also true of the piston pinhole in
the piston, as well as in the connecting rod. Conse-
quently, any standard Ford piston pin may be
assembled with any standard Ford connecting rod
or piston with entirely satisfactory results.
End play of the piston pin is controlled by means
of wire retainers, which are expanded into grooves
in the piston pin bore of the piston.
Ford piston pins are available .002" oversize. In
cases where this oversize piston pin is to be installed,
it is also necessary to rework the piston and con-
necting rod bushings. A combination expansion
reamer and burnisher, illustrated in Figure 58,
should be used for this operation.
Fig. 58 — Reaming Piston and Kod to Fit Pin
The piston pin should drop through the pinhole
in the piston with a total clearance not to exceed
00077, assuming, of course, that parts are clean and
pin and piston are approximately the same tem-
perature.
The proper fit of the connecting rod bushings to
the pin can be checked by the following procedure:
Hold the piston or pin in the hand with connect-
ing rod extended downward in a vertical position.
Turn the piston, or pin, in a direction calculated to
cause the connecting rod to move with the pin as
the axis. This motion should cause the lower end of
26
the connecting rod to move upward through ap-
proximately, but not more than, 14” arc before
dropping back to a vertical position.
In production, standard piston pins are fitted in
0006” slip fit in the piston and .00025” slip fit in
the rod. |
PISTON RING
There are two compression rings and one oil con-
trol ring on each piston. Two compression rings are
at the top of piston.
When fitting new piston rings, it is important
that the ring gap should be checked at the point in
the cylinder bore, within the ring travel. The ring
should also be square in the cylinder bore.
The correct gap is from .012” to .017” and this
should be checked by inserting a feeler gage be-
tween the ends of the piston ring. |
‘In most cases, it will be necessary to file the end
of the ring slightly to secure the correct gap, anda
ring filing block, such as that illustrated in Figure
59, will facilitate this operation.
Fig. 59 — Piston Ring Filing Block
In every case the piston rings should be fitted in
the particular cylinder bore in which they are to be
installed. After fitting the rings so they have the
proper gap, each ring should be checked in its re-
spective ring groove on the piston to make sure it
is free in the groove, but does not have excessive
clearance: this can be done by rolling the back side
of the ring around the piston ring groove. Total side
clearance in the groove should not exceed .003".
After installing the rings on the pistons, turn the
rings so the ring gaps are staggered an equal dis-
tance apart around the circumference of the pistons.
ыы
This should be done to avoid having the ring gaps
in a vertical position one above the other. The
marking on the rings must be installed toward the
top of the piston.
VALVE SEAT INSERTS
Tungsten chrome alloy steel inserts are used for
both intake and exhaust valve seats. The inserts
are shrunk by liquid air before they are pressed
into the block. As the counterbore in the block is
slightly smaller in diameter than the outside diam-
eter of the insert at normal temperatures, a perma-
nently tight fit is insured. Because of their extreme
hardness and ability to withstand high temperatures
without becoming oxidized or pitted, it is rarely
necessary to replace these inserts. Service equip-
ment for this operation is, therefore, not considered
essential for ordinary service stations. Cylinder
blocks which require replacement of valve seat in-
serts are ordinarily returned to the factory for such
work, but where it is decided to equip a shop to
handle this type of repair, a valve seat replacing
machine may be obtained for this work.
CAST STEEL PISTONS
A new process was developed by
Ford to manufacture steel pistons
which are light in weight, strong
and wear-resisting. Having ap-
proximately the same rate of ex-
pansion as the cylinders and sleeves,
the pistons can be more closely
fitted to reduce oil consumption
and increase piston life. Pistons are
cadmium-plated to prevent scuffing.
When fitting pistons of this type,
it 1s advisable to use a pull scale
such as the one illustrated in Fig-
ure 61. The pistons should be fitted
to within 6 to 10 lbs. pull with a
‚003 feeler,
Fig, 60-—Bectional
View of Piston
CYLINDE
Figure 62 shows the cylinder sleeves being re-
moved from the cylinder block. Special tools are
required for this operation and it is recommended
that this job be done by a factory-trained mechanic,
27
Fig. 62 — Removing Cylinder Sleeves
CONNECTING ROD
The connecting rods in the Ford
engine are heat-treated carbon man-
ganese steel forgings. They are ac-
curately held to a specified weight so
as to reduce vibration and lessen wear
on bearings and pistons. The piston
pin bushing in the connecting rod is
of special bronze. пор
The correct procedure for fitting
the piston pin in the connecting rod
bushing 1s described in the foregoing
section covering piston pins. After in-
stalling a new piston or pin on a
connecting rod, it is essential that the
assembly be rechecked for alignment,
as illustrated in Figure 64. -
Fig. 63 —
Connecting Rod
64 — Checking Connecting Rod Alignment
Fig.
ENGINE
The connecting rod bearings in the Ford four-
cylinder engine are of the steel back replaceable
type with each half locked in position on the con-
necting rods. The bearings are made of special
bearing alloy, having high structural strength which
is bonded to a steel core. Undersize liners are avail-
able in ‚001, .002 and .005 sizes,
CAMSHAFT С EAR ASSEME
A special alloy iron, developed by Ford Engineers,
is used in casting camshafts. This metal is highly
wear-resistant and gives the shaft greater rigidity.
The three hardened camshaft bearings are supported
in bearing holes bored in the cast-iron block.
A silent operating, durable camshaft gear, made
of Micarta, is pressed on the camshaft. Replace-
ment of this gear is seldom necessary and, for that
reason, the camshaft and gear assembly is ordinarily
supplied as a complete unit. It is not advisable to
~ Fig. 65 — Timing Gear
attempt changing the gear on the camshaft without
a fixture which has been especially designed for this
purpose.
The illustration of the engine parts shows the
Fig. 66 — Timing Gear Marks
bolt-on type of timing gear used on later model
tractors. You will note that this timing gear is
fastened to the camshaft with four cap screws, and
that the holes are unevenly spaced to prevent in-
correct installation.
To replace the camshaft and gear assembly, re-
move the cylinder front cover, Part 6019, Figure 52,
and valve chamber cover plate, Part 6520.
When installing a new camshaft and gear assem-
bly, the timing mark on the camshaft gear must be
matched with the timing mark on the crankshaft,
with valves in their proper relation. (Figure 66.)
Fig, 67 — Holding Push Rod up for Removing Camshaft
In order to remove the camshaft, it is necessary
to lift the push rods and hold them up. Valve guide
bushing retainers, Part 6512, may be used, as
shown in Figure 67.
X
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Fig. 68 Fig. 69
The timing gear on the crankshaft is pressed on
and secured in place by a Woodruff key. Tools for
removing and installing this gear are shown in
Figures 68 and 69,
CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is fully counterbalanced, cast
alloy steel, with the counterweights cast integral.
The crankshaft is drilled for oil passages to the main
and connecting rod bearings. Bearing surfaces are
highly resistant to wear and are especially smooth,
due to the fact that they receive two polishing
Fig. 70 — Cast Alloy Steel Crankshaft
operations after they are finish ground. The crank-
shaft is balanced within %y of an ounce inch.
There are three main bearings which support the
crankshaft and the end thrust is taken up by the
flanges on the replaceable center main bearing liner.
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
The bearings used in the Ford Tractor engine are
made from special dntifriction alloy, bonded to a
g. 71 ~~ Crankshaft Bearing
steel back. These are of the replaceable type, and
are clamped in place by the main bearing caps de-
scribed in the section devoted to the cylinder block.
Undersize liners of .001, .002 and .005 are available.
Each bearing has a small lobe pressed out of one
side, which is designed to fit into a recess of similar
size in the bearing cap. When fitted in place, these
lobes prevent the bearings from moving. Figure 71.
29
on the crankshaft into the oil
The crankshaft bearing may be removed by
applying force on the side opposite the bearing lobe.
Details of the rear bearing oil seal are illustrated
in the sectional view of the engine, Figure 50. Oil
flowing from rear bearing is deflected by the flange
pan.
grooves in the oil pan and the upper part of the oil
seal to effectively prevent oil getting out the rear
end of the engine at that point. Both the upper half
of the oil geal, fitted into the cylinder block, and the
lower half, fitted in the pan, are removable pieces.
Rear bearing oil seal, Part 6335, should be sealed
with a suitable material to prevent oil leaks.
FLYW Er
The cast-iron flywheel used on Ford four-cylinder
engine is very carefully machined and balanced, to
reduce vibration to the minimum. The steel starter
ring gear is shrunk on the flywheel.
When changing a flywheel ring gear, it is par-
ticulariy important that the ring gear be heated
sufficientiy to expand to a diameter larger than the
diameter of the shoulder on the flywheel.
e SATA
Fig. 72 — Flywheel Puller
The operation of removing the flywheel from an
engine is facilitated by the puller, illustrated in
Figure 72. If a puller of this type is not available,
however, a flywheel can be removed by striking it
first on one side and then the other with a rawhide
hammer. (See next page.)
ENGINE
In addition to the four bolts, there are two dowels
ini the crankshaft which locate the flywheel in place.
The four bolts which hold the flywheel to the crank-
shaft must be carefully wired after they have been
pulled up tightly. It is also suggested that the fly-
wheel be checked for “run out” after installation;
this can be done by fixing a dial indicator to the
flywheel housing so the point of the indicator
touches the flywheel approximately 14” from the
beveled edge. Total “run out” should not exceed
0107.
VALVE PLUSH RODS
The one-piece valve push rods, illustrated in
Figure 73, are cast from a special wear-resisting
alloy iron, developed by Ford for this particular pur-
pose. Being hollow, they are light
in weight and spiral openings in the
side help to provide sufficient lubri-
cation. All surfaces are hardened,
and these wear-resisting surfaces
in combination with the other parts
of the valve mechanism, make it
possible to retain practically con-
stant valve clearances. The cus-
tomary valve adjusting lock nut
and screws are not required with
the Ford design valve mechanism,
Fig. 73 —
Valve Push Rod
The Ford intake and exhaust valves are high
chrome nickel alloy steel. Because of this metal's
ability to withstand high temperatures and corro-
sion, they do not warp, burn or pit readily.
The lower end of the valve stems have an area
more than three times that of the stem cross section.
This large, hardened area reduces wear on these
surfaces to such an extent that valve clearance re-
mains constant over a long period of time. The stem
surfaces are also hardened to prolong the quiet
action of the valve and to reduce leakage of intake
and exhaust gases through wear in service.
Correct clearance between the valve and push
rod is .010 to .012 for the intake and .014 to .016 for
the exhaust.
When adjusting the clearance between the valve
and the push rod, always make sure that the piston
is in firing position in order that both valves will be
fully closed. This position can easily be determined
by turning the engine until the intake valve opens
and closes and the piston comes to top dead center.
A cross-sectional view of the engine showing the
30
unit valve assembly in position is illustrated in
Figure 74. The parts in their relative positions are
shown in Figure 75.
Fig. 74 — Sectional View of Valve Mechanism
Removal of the complete unit 1s accomplished by
the use of a bar type valve lifter and bracket, as
illustrated in Figure 76. After assembling the
bracket to the side of the block, as shown in the
illustration, insert the valve lifter through the
valve spring to the flange on the lower end of the
valve guide bushing, as illustrated in Figure 77.
This permits the valve guide bushing, Part 6510,
Figure 75,t0 be pulled
down sufficiently to
remove the valve
guide bushing retain-
er, Part 6512, after
which the assembly
can be withdrawn up
through the valve
port.
The clearance be-
tween the valve stem
and the valve guide
bushing should be
maintained at .0015
to .0035. If the inside
diameter of a valve
guide bushing be-
comes worn in excess
of the dimension .314,
it should be discarded.
Fig. 75 — Valve Assembly
Fig, 76 — Removing Valve Assembl
To facilitate disassembly and reassembly of these
Fig. 77 — Valve Lifter
valves is 45 degrees. Due to the numerous different
makes of valve seat refacing machines on the mar-
ket, we are not attempting to give detailed instruc-
tions concerning the refacing Г
of valves in this manual. The
instructions supplied with the
particular machine being used
should be followed in every
case.
Do not reinstall in an en-
gine any valves which have
been refaced so many times р
that the edges are thin; such [=
valves should be discarded = |
| | Fig. 78 —
and replaced with new ones. Valve Assembly Fixture
ENGINE
31
Eccentric grinding is the only method of refacing
hardened valve seat inserts which is approved by
the Ford Motor Company. Instructions for using a
grinder of this type ordinarily accompany the ma-
chines. |
VALVE GUIDE BUSHING
The Ford valve guide bushings are made in two
pieces and, when removed for any purpose, they
eter of the valve guide bushing and the inside
diameter is held to very close limits and if the valve
mides are not kept in pairs as originally manufac-
tured, excessive clearance around the valve stems
might result. This is sometimes the cause of noisy
valves, lack of power and excessive oil consumption.
When replacing valve guide bushings, make sure
that the flat surface of each half is at right angles to
the edge of the block, as shown in Figure 76.
OIL PUMP
The oil pump housing is an integral part of the
front main bearing cap, as shown in Figure 79.
It is driven by a fiber gear which meshes directly
with crankshaft timing gear. The pump is a gear
type pump which draws the oil through a screen in
the bottom of the oil pan and circulates it through
6619
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<—6730-ASS'Y A
Fig. 79 — O] Pump Assembly
drilled holes in the upper part of the pump housing
to the oil passages in the block. This is clearly illus-
trated in Figure 3 in the Lubrication Section. The
oil is forced under pressure from the main oil pas-
sages through the crankshaft main and connecting
rod bearings, as well as the camshaft bearings.
The oil pump screen is an integral part of the oil
pan drain plug which makes it possible to clean the
screen each time the oil is drained, and prevents an
accumulation of sludge or other foreign substances
ENGINE
around the oil sump. When replacing oil pan plug,
be sure screen does not get damaged.
As indicated in the view of the oil pump assembly,
Figure 79, the pump may be completely disassembled
after taking off the cover at the back of the oil
pump housing.
UFFLER
Figures 80 and 81 illustrate the intake and ex-
haust manifolds and the muffler.
The intake manifold distributes the fuel mixture
to the cylinders from the carburetor, and it is pro-
vided with a hot-spot in the riser to better vaporize
fuel. The intake and manifold are cast in one piece.
When it is necessary to remove the manifold
from the engine for servicing, always examine it to
make sure that the passages are clear and clean.
Low-grade fuel will leave deposits, particularly in
the intake passages. These depor: should be re-
moved.
The muffler and muffler pipe carry the exhaust
gases from the manifold to the rear of the tractor.
The muffler is the reverse flow type that utilizes
the principle of expansion chambers and change of
direction of gases, instead of baffles, as means of
reducing back pressure.
Fig. 81 — Muffler
Cylinder Block
Cylinder Bore... ........ ‚3.1875 to 3.1885
SO . a 3750
Main Bearing Hole Bored Dia... 2.420 to 2,421
Width of Front Main Bearing... ... 1.585 to 1.605
Width of Center Main Bearing... .. 1.740 to 1.742
Width of Rear Main Bearing. ..... 1.595 to 1.645
Camshaft Bearing Hole Bored Dia. 1.7385 to 1.799
Push Rod Hole Dia... ...........1.0000 to 1.0005
Length of Push Rod... .......... 1.722 to 1.723
OD of Push Rod... ‚. 8994 to ‚0996
Valve Guide Hole Dia...
OD, af Valve Guide...
1.10. of Valve Guide. .
. 1.031 ta 1.037
1.0305 to 1.0319
313 to ,314
Exhaust Valve Head Lia... . 0... 1.280 to 1.282
Exhaust Valve Stem Dia... ....... 3105 to 3115
Intake Valve Head Dia... .. . 1.5356 to 1.538
Intake Valve Stem Ha... 4105 to ‚3115
Crankshaft
Crankshaft Main Bearing Гла.. 2.248 to 2,349
Crankshaft Front Main Bearing
WidtA. ae 1.778 to 1.782
Crankshaft Center Main Bearing
Width,.. ea 1.901 to 1.903
Crankshaft Rear Main Bearing
Width... .. oo 1.798 to 1.802
Crankshaft Pin Bearing Die. . 2.0935 to 2.0945
Crankshaft Pin Bearing Width, | … 1.300 to 1.302
Crankshaft to Connecting Rod
Insert Clearance, |
Connecting Rod Side Clearance.
.0004 to ‚0025
403 to ‚006
CES
Crankshaft (Continped)
Main Bearing Clearance... ..... [00 to ‚0025
Crank Thrust End Play... ‚002 to 006
Camshaft Bearing Dia......... ‚1.7965 to 1.7970
Camshaft Clearance. ... 3015 to ‚003
Camshaft Clearance at Front |
aver er ea nara 903 to ‚007
Piston
Piston Dia. O.13....... aaa dao 3.1846 to 3.1867
Piston Pin Hole Dia. . +2907 to .7510
Piston Ring Groove Width, Top. L940 to 0950
Piston Ring Groove Width, Center. . ‚0935 10 ‚0945
Piston Ring Groove Width, Oil... ‚1565 to .1575
Piston Ring Side Clearance, Top... ‚002 to 0035
Piston Ring Side Clearance, Center. ‚0015 to .003
Piston Ring Gap, Top............ .010 to .015
Piston Ring Gap, Center. ......... .010 to .015
Piston Ring Gap, OÙ 111414104000 010 to .015
Wrist Pin Dia... oo. A 7501 to .7504
Wrist Pin Length. ....... 2.2... 2.972 ta 2.975
Wrist Pin Selective Slip Fit to be .0001 to .0003 loose
in Connecting Rod and Piston
Backlash in Timing Сеат. .......... ‚003 to .004
(Micarta only)
Backlash in Pump Gear. ........... ‚003 to 004
Cam and Crank Gear Center
Distance... ae ee 4.687 to 4.688 К.
Connecting Rod Wrist Pin Bushing... .7503 to .7506
Connecting Rod Crank Pin Bore... ., 2.2195 to 2.220
Valve Gap — Print Dim. Intake.... .010 to .012
Exhaust. . 014 to ‚016
for normal operating needs and high pressure on the
clutch disc when engine speeds are increased.
It is very important that a clutch compressor,
such as that illustrated in Figure 84, be used for
installing and removing this type of clutch. If a
The clutch is a single plate dry disc type as illus-
trated in the sectional drawing, Figure 82. The
various parts of the clutch in their relative assembly
positions are shown in Figure 83. The clutch pres-
Fig. 84 — Clutch Compressor
compressor is not used, the cover plate may be dis-
torted while being assembled or disassembled. When
a clutch compressor is not available, make sure that
the six cap screws are removed gradually and
Fig. 82 — Sectional View of
Clutch Assembly
sure plate is a centrifugal type, having weighted
levers which add to the pressure on the disc as the
engine speeds are increased. It is attached directly
to the flywheel surface by means of six pilot cap
screws. These are special cap screws, Part 350433-5,
and under no circumstances should ordinary cap
screws be used.
hdd SY “
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a "a
AN
KA
AAN.
Fig. 83 — Clutch Parts
equally. R
Removing all but one cap screw may cause
the cover plate to be distorted, due to the spring
ETESEUTE.
The three weighted release levers are mounted on
needle roller bearings and, due to the weight at the
outer end, each lever is to some extent actuated by
centrifugal force. The faster the clutch revolves the
more the levers try to throw out and increase the
pressure they exert on the pressure plate. The pur-
pose of this design is to secure light pedal pressure
33
Fig. 85 — Reassembling with Stub Shaft
In the absence of a clutch compressor, a stub
shaft, illustrated in Figure 85, should be used to re-
assemble the clutch. |
CLUTCH DISC
The driven member of the clutch incorporates a
vibration damper of the spring and friction type.
There are six of these springs of sufficient size and
CLUTCH
capacity to take care of the maximum engine
torque. The springs compress both when accelerat-
ing and decelerating.
The only repair which should be attempted to
the clutch disc is replacement of the facings. When
sufficient wear takes place as to necessitate replace-
ment of springs or other parts of the clutch hub, it
is unlikely that any part of the clutch hub can be
reconditioned satisfactorily.
Cushioned springs are riveted to the clutch facing
on the pressure plate side of the clutch disc. Since it
is impractical to salvage these cushioning plates
from the old disc, facings having the cushion plate
springs riveted to them should be secured from the
manufacturer. The facing nearest the flywheel 1s a
plain facing which is assembled directly to the
clutch disc. The rivets which hold the plain facing
to the disc also hold the facing with the cushion
plate springs assembled to the disc. Removal of
these six rivets and installation of new facings and
rivets will be the only reconditioning work to be
done on clutch discs.
HE CLUTCH
When replacing the clutch it is necessary to
separate the engine and oil pan assembly from the
transmission housing, as shown in Figure 86. The
Fig. 86 — Replacing Clutch
first step is to disconnect the muffler pipe from the
manifold. “Then disconnect the clutch throw-out
rod. Support both the transmission and the engine
assembly before removing the cap screws that con-
nect these two assemblies.
The clutch release bearing + is of the Cae
34
7561, and is actuated by the clutch release shaft
fork, Part 7515. When necessary to replace any of
these parts, the tractor must be separated as indi-
cated under the heading, “Replacing the Clutch.”
CLUTCH PILOT BEARIF
The clutch pilot bearing is a ball bearing carried
in a recess in the flywheel. It is lubricated before
assembly with a short fiber grease of very hgh
melting point. It is essential that a lubricant of this
type be used whenever a pilot bearing is replaced
for any reason, ‘as an unsuitable lubricant might
melt out and not only cause the clutch to slip, but
also result in the failure of the pilot bearing. This
bearing should be checked when any clutch repair
is made and it is advisable to remove the bearing,
clean it and repack with a good grade of fiber grease
at that time. |
Clearance between the clutch release bearing and
the clutch plate release fingers must be maintained
at all times, and is indicated by the amount of free
travel of the clutch pedal. This should be one inch.
LEVER FOR DISENGAGING
HYDRAULIC PUMP
|
245 FREE PEDAL TRAVEL BEFORE pa à
YOKE CONTACTS CLUTCH RELEASE 37 Дс NY
BEARING. TA |
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436 ADDITIONAL TRAVEL
BEFORE CLUTCH PEDAL Ea $ EA
CONTACTS BRAKE SHAFT М sos TADO og
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Fig. 87 — Clutch Pedal Travel
Figure 87 illustrates how this adjustment is easily
made by removing the clevis pin and turning the
release arm rod. Lengthening the rod increases the
clutch pedal free movement, shortening the rod de-
creases the amount of free movement. After making
these adjustments, be sure to replace the clevis pin
and cotter key.
The transmission is the selective sliding-gear type
and all moving parts, with the exception of the re-
verse idler gear which rotates on a bronze bushing,
are carried on tapered roller bearings. Three forward
speeds and one reverse are provided and are en-
gaged by means of a gearshift lever on the top of
the transmission case. A view of the transmission
is shown in Figure 88, with all the gears in neutral
position,
It also shows the starter button shaft directly
over the hole in the gear lock plate. This gear lock
plate hole and the starter button shaft line up only
when the gearshift lever is in neutral position. It is
impossible to engage the starter with the tractor in
gear — the reason we call it a safety starter.
Figure 90 illustrates all the transmission parts
in their relative assembly positions.
Figure 89 illustrates the meshing of gears for each
of the forward and reverse speeds and the path of
transmitted power.
In order to know thoroughly the various parts of
the transmission and their functions, it is suggested
that the reader carefully study the sectional view
of the transmission, together with the views illus-
REVERSE
Fig. 89 — Path of Power Through Transmission Gears
35
35554 5-5
348075
34807-5— | 20880-5-7
355545 -6 |
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885734
-88398-5
3447
Fig. 90 — Transmission Assembly Parts
36
trating the gears that are working when set at
various speeds. This will enable the reader to
identify these parts when they are removed from
the transmission.
REMOVING
To work on the transmission, remove the steering
housing, as shown in Figure 134, page 51, and the
power take-off shaft shown on page 57, Figure 152.
Remove the left side inspection plate, Part 721.
Place rigid support under both the center housing
and the transmission housing. Then remove the ten
bolts connecting the transmission housing to the
center housing. Carefully separate the two units
and remove the transmission housing to a bench or
stand and position it so that the parts are readily
accessible,
SEE ES NTE
Fig 91 ~ Removing Shifter Plate |
Figure 91 illustrates the first step.
Remove the gearshift support rod
9N-7225,
Remove selector rod, Part 7240-RH and Part
7241-LH, from the rear of the transmission. Take
care not to lose the spring, Part 7234, and the ball,
Part 353075-F,
Remove shifter forks, Parts 7230 and 7231.
К emove transmission main shaft bearing retain-
er, Part 7085.
Figure 92 illustrates removal of main shaft, Part
7061. |
Remove main shaft pilot bearing, Part 7120.
Figure 92 illustrates the shims that are used to
X
make possible the correct bearing adjustment. Your
parts book lists shims of four different thicknesses
and by the use of one or more in combination, it is
possible to get the correct adjustment of the heavy-
| plate, Part
37
Fig. 97 — Removing Main Shaft and
duty tapered roller bearings € on the transmission
shafts,
Noisy transmissions are sometimes due to in-
correct adjustment of the transmission shaft bear-
ings and a great deal of care should be taken when
overhauling a transmission to make sure that the
correct number of shims are placed behind the bear-
ing caps to make a good snug fit, yet the shafts
should turn easily by hand.
The chief cause of noisy transmissions is demased
teeth on one or more of the gears. Damage can be
caused by clashing the gears when shifting or by
foreign material entering the gears when they are
in mesh. Sometimes the slightest indentation of a
gear will cause a distinct noise. These damaged
teeth, however, can be smoothed up quite easily by
passing a piece of grinding stone back and forth
over the damaged place, smoothing it to conform
with the rest of the undamaged teeth. Do not throw
away a gear until you have made a thorough try at
smoothing up the teeth,
The next step in disassembling the transmission
is to remove the low and high sliding gears, Part
7190.
Remove second and reverse sliding gear, Part
7101.
Remove main drive gear, Part 7017, Figure 89.
Use great care in replacing th
damaging the oil seal, Part 7052. Remove power
take-off shaft bearing support, Part 718.
Remove power take-off clutch hub, P
Remove countershaft gear assembly. The gear
is Part 7113 and the shaft is Part 7111.
Remove reverse idler gear retaining pin, Part
7135, and when replacing the reverse idler gear,
Part 7141, make sure that the beveled part of the
gear is toward the rear end of the tractor.
Push reverse idler gear shaft, Part 7140, forward
from the rear of the transmission housing.
TRANSMISSION
Place the transmission main drive gear bearing
retainer, Part 7050, in a vise and pull the oil seal,
Part 7052, using a special puller. When replacing
this oil seal, make sure that the lip of the seal is
toward the rear of the tractor. |
Inspect the bearing cups of the retainers, Parts
7134, 7085 and 718. If they show damage, remove
and replace.
\ISSÉ
The transmission is reassembled in reverse order.
Particular attention must be given to the installa-
tion of the bearing caps to make sure that the cor-
rect amount of shims are used and that the cap
screws are tightened gradually and equally. This
will insure proper alignment of the bearings and
insure all surfaces of the cap bearing equally on the
transmission case.
The clutch release throw-out bearing, Part 7580,
is a prelubricated bearing and should never be
washed out when overhauling the transmission. It
is desirable, however, when reassembling this throw-
out bearing, to place a few drops of oil on the shaft
in order to allow it to have free movement. This
also tends to eliminate rust and corrosion.
The transmission gear, Part 7113, is pressed onto
38
the countershaft, Part 7111. These two parts can
be separated by the use of a press. |
Do not attempt to reassemble the transmission
to the center housing, unless the power take-off
shaft is completely removed from the tractor.
Figure 93 illustrates the use of two locating pins
that will greatly assist in assembling the transmis-
sion to the center housing. These locating pins also
assist in holding the gasket in its correct position.
g. 93 — Aligning Transmission Case
The Ferguson System is an ingenious means of
automatically controlling the working depth of
Ferguson unit implements. It also provides an easy,
simple means for raising and lowering the imple-
ments.
The Ferguson System consists of one top and two
lower links, and a hydraulic mechanism. The hy-
draulic mechanism is made up of a pump, ram cyl-
inder and lift arms. These assemblies work as a unit
and furnish automatic finger-tip control for all
Ferguson unit implements.
In operation, the control lever is moved forward
to a position which will control the depth at which
the implement is to operate. This action opens the
control valve, releasing oil in the ram cylinder,
which allows the implement to drop until the pres-
sure of the top link on the control spring compresses
the spring enough to move the control valve back
into a neutral position. This keeps the implement
from going any deeper. The Ferguson System auto-
matically controls the plow or other unit implements
at the depth for which they are set. Variation in the
contour of the ground, which the front and rear
wheels must follow, will cause an extension or com-
pression of the control spring. This action is auto-
matically transmitted to the valve to change the
quantity of oil in the ram cylinder that holds the
implement at its fixed depth. Under normal condi-
tions, the control valve is moving back and forth a
slight amount, almost continuously, to maintain
the balance originally set for the operation.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE HYDRAULIC
MECHANISM
Drain the oil from the rear axle or center housing
and from the transmission housing. Remove all
three drain plugs.
Remove both right and left inspection plates
from the center housing. The power take-off lever
assembly is incorporated in the left inspection
plate. When this lever is pulled completely forward,
the power take-off shaft is out of gear.
Remove power take-off shaft and driver's seat.
Disconnect control valve, Part 640, from the
fork, Part 504. This is done by working through the
inspection plate holes after placing the hand control
lever in an “up” position.
Figure 94 illustrates the position of the hydraulic
pump and the ram cylinder, as viewed from the
front end of the center housing.
39
Fig. 94 — Hydraulic Pump
Remove the cap screws which attach the pump to
the center housing, allowing the pump to be lowered.
DISASSEMBLY OF LIFT MECHANISM
Remove the pins, Part 595, connecting the hy-
draulic lift arm to the leveling knuckles and the
pin, Part 560, from the hydraulic lift rocker.
Remove the outer circle of cap screws that attach
the lift cover to the center housing. Figure 97 illus-
trates both the hydraulic pump and the lift cover
being removed from the center housing. Figure 95
is another view of the lift cover housing assembly.
FERGUSON SYSTEM
120365——a
352625-57-8—
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A5S9T-LH
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5541
543
—2 1447-57
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«—73956-5
4 5 40
CUFTARNS es 2
LIFT SHAFT
LH ASSY
Ei m I554650-5
-351478-57-8
3556935748
HYDRAULIC
— PUMP
Fig. 96 — Hydraulic Mechanism Parts
Fig. 97 — Hydraulic Assemblies
40
Disconnect the fork retracting spring, Part 539,
Remove hydraulic cylinder, Part 510, from lift
cover (four bolts).
To remove piston from cylinder, carefully strike
open end of cylinder on a piece of soft wood, or
blow out with air hose.
Remove control spring, Part 547, cover plate,
Part 527, and three cap screws.
The complete fork assembly can now be removed.
Remove from each end of Lift shaft the two cap
screws secured by a combination washer and lock,
Part 550.
Hold the lift arm with one hand and tap lightly
on the end of the lift shaft. This will remove the
lift shaft, ram arm and one lift bushing. Push other
НЙ bushing out of the opposite side.
When reassembling, first install ram arm,
Part 545, and lift shaft, Part 544, in lift cover.
Follow this operation with the installation of
the lift bushings, Part 331. In the assembly of
the ram arm, carefully match it with the one
large spline of the lift shaft,
Remove hand control lever and quadrant assem-
bly (four cap screws).
Remove lever from the shaft, Part 517.
Remove the Woodruff key, Part 74175-8, from
the shaft, and the shaft from the housing.
To reassemble, reverse the above procedure,
The following precautions should be carefully
observed in servicing the lift assembly:
Check the condition of piston, Part 530, and
cylinder, Part 510. The correct clearance of
the piston to cylinder 1s .0015 to .0025.
Figure 98 illustrates how to adjust the lift arm
to the hydraulic Lift shaft when reassembling the
Fig. 98 — Adjusting Lift Arm Assembly
41
ERGUSON SYSTEM
hydraulic lift assembly. Tighten the cap screws until
the arms clamp into position. Then loosen the cap
screws until the arms raise and lower freely. Make
sure that the lock washer, Part 550, locks the cap
screws in order to prevent the cap screws from
turning, after the adjustment is made. |
DISA
ASSEMBLING THE HYDRAULIC PUMP
Figure 96 shows the parts of the hydraulic pump
assembly.
Remove the valve chamber assemblies, Parts 621
and 622, Then remove the valves, Parts 628 and
629, and springs, Parts 646 and 647.
Remove the pistons, Part 615, as illustrated in
Figure 99. Also the cam blocks, Part 617, and the
bushing, Part 649. Carefully note the position of
the bronze bushing and the cam blocks to assure
correct reassembling.
Fig, 99 — Disagsernbling Hydraulic Pump
Remove the control valve, Part 640, and the
safety valve assembly, Part 638. If, for any reason,
the control valve bushing requires replacement, it
may be tapped out from the pump housing. Note
carefully the position of the holes in the pump bush-
ing and be sure that the new bushing i is installed in
the same position.
Failure of the hydraulic mechanism to work prop-
erly is often due to a small piece of foreign material
under the ball of the safety valve. You will note the
safety valve contains a ball held in place by a pre-
loaded spring. The slightest bit of foreign material
on this ball will cause leakage of oil and inefficient
operation of the entire hydraulic mechanism.
FERGUSON SYSTEM
This safety valve can be removed from the pump
while it is assembled in the center housing by work-
ing through the two inspection plate holes. Some
operators find it more convenient to remove the
power take-off shaft before trying to remove the
safety valve. They accomplish this by dropping the
front end of the tractor into about a 15-inch depres-
sion so they can remove the power take-off shaft
with little or no loss of oil.
Leakage of oil at the safety valve or in any other
part of the hydraulic mechanism is indicated when
the implement drops rapidly after the engine is
stopped. Also, while the engine is running and the
implement is in an upward position, a slight jerking
action is observed. Another indication of leakage of
oil is the tendency of the hydraulic system to lose
control of the implement and allow it to penetrate
deeper when plowing, or in deep cultivation.
The above indications, however, are based on the
fact that the lift arms and all the linkage have free
movement. Too tight an adjustment of the lift arms
or too tight a connection in the linkage may give
practically the same effect as a leak in the hydraulic
mechanism. Make sure that these connections are
all free and flexible before removing the safety
valve or the pump.
The hydraulic control lever provides a means for
raising and lowering the implement, and its position
fixes the depth at which the implement is to operate.
Fig. 100 — Hydraulic Control Lever
42
Fig. 101 — Checking Quadrant
Moving the lever downward lowers the implement
and pulling the lever up raises the implement. This
requires hardly more than finger tip pressure.
Figure 100 illustrates the operation of the hydraulic
control lever,
Once the desired depth is determined, loosen the
wing nut and adjust the stop to the lever. Should
greater depth be desired, the lever can easily be
moved past the stop.
The hydraulic lift control quadrant must be
checked frequently. Figure 101 shows the method.
The implement must start lowering when the con-
trol lever is placed at a point 215” (plus or minus
14”) from its top position. If it is necessary to push
the lever farther down before the implement starts
lowering, it will be impossible to set the implement
Fig. 102 — Setting Quadrant
FERGUSON SYSTEM
at its full working depth. On the other hand, if the
implement starts lowering before the lever reaches
the 234” mark, difficulty may be experienced in
raising the implement to its full height. Figure 102
illustrates forcing the quadrant ahead toward the
front of the tractor until the implement starts
lowering with the control lever set at 214” from the
top. At that point, tighten up the cap screw with
the wrench, then tighten the other three cap screws.
Raise and lower the implement to recheck for the
correct position of the quadrant.
While the implement may start lowering at ex-
actly 214”, the lever may have to be set 14” down-
ward or upward in order to obtain the correct
lifting action.
JUSTMENT OF THE
CONTROL SPRING
Figure 103 illustrates the proper method of ad-
justing the control spring, Part 547, after the
tractor has been overhauled. With the hand control
lever in an “up” position, turn yoke, Part 546, in
until it is very snug, then back it off until the holes
line up with the lift rocker, Part 535, making it
possible to insert the pin, Part 560.
This adjustment is very carefully made at the
factory and it should be unnecessary to make any
adjustment whatsoever on the control spring unless
it is disassembled for repair of the hydraulic
mechanism.
ASTE
Fig. 103 — Adjusting Control Spring
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Fig. 104 — Differential and Rear Axle Parts 1 19 6
The Ford Tractor rear axle is the semifloating
type and has spiral bevel gears, providing an axle
ratio of 6.6 to 1. The driving pinion is straddle-
mounted, having two large, oppositely positioned,
tapered roller bearings in front of the pinion and
another roller bearing in back of the pinion. Parts
assembly view and sectional view of the axle are
shown in Figures 104 and 105.
The axle shafts are very sturdy, large diameter
shafts which carry the weight of the tractor. The
outer end of the shaft is
supported by a large, ta-
pered roller bearing, incor-
porated in an oilproof
Fig, 105 — Rear Axle and Differential Sectional View
44
bearing retainer attached to the outer end of the
axle housing.
The differential assembly is supported in the axle
housings by large, tapered roller bearings. There are
four pinions in the differential which mesh and drive
the axle shaft gears. Thrust washers between the
four pinions and the case, also between the two
differential side gears and the case, prevent galling
of thrust faces.
All axle shafts are forged from a special high alloy
steel and the outer end of the shaft is upset and
securely riveted to the wheel flange. This design
eliminates the need for splines or keys which are
likely to wear and loosen.
To remove the axle shaft, jack
up the tractor and remove the
wheels. Then remove the six
nuts that connect the rear axle
housing to the bearing retainer,
Part 4133.
Figure 106 illustrates removal
of the axle shaft and brake as-
sembly. It also shows a number
of shims that may be used for
the proper “end-to-end” adjust-
ment of the axle shafts.
In Figure 105, it will be noted
that the axle shaft ends have a
clearance of .002. The shims,
Parts 4229-A, B and C, vary in
Fig. 106 — Replacing Rear Axle and Brake Assembly
thickness so the mechanic can get the proper
adjustment. а
When installing an axle, see that it “butts” the
other axle and has no noticeable end play. Then
install the wheels and jack up tractor. Turn one
wheel. If the other wheel remains stationary or
turns in the opposite direction, the adjustment is
correct. However, if both wheels turn in the same
direction, additional shims are required.
AXLE SHAFT BEARING REPLACEMENTS
Figure 103 illustrates the construction of the axle
shaft bearing retainer. Note the grease seal, the
heavy-duty tapered roller bearing and the collar
that holds the bearing in its position. In order to
replace this seal, Part 4251, or the bearing, Part
4221, drill a 14” hole in the collar, Part 4132, then
Fig. 107 — Splitting Rear Axle Bearing Collar
45
Fig. 110 — Replacing Axle Oil Seal
split the collar as shown in Figure 107, using a
hammer and cold chisel. The rear axle bearing
assembly can then be pulled by using a puller, as
shown in Figure 108 о
The oil seal may be driven out and a new seal
replaced by the use of tools as illustrated in Figures
109 and 110. |
The rear axle bearing may be reassembled by
tools that come with the puller equipment.
The rear axle bearing lock ring must be heated
before assembly can be made. It is recommended
that a blow torch and
fixture be used for this
purpose, as illustrated
in Figure 111.
Figures 112 and 113
illustrate the installa-
tion of new gaskets
when replacing the
brake assemblies on
the rear axle shaft
housing. New gaskets Fig. 111 — Heating Lock Ring
are necessary to prevent grease leaks around the axle.
Experience shows that many grease leaks are due
to defective gaskets rather than defective oil seals.
Always make sure that the gaskets are in perfect
shape when a grease leak occurs, rather than assum-
ing that the oil seal is defective.
Fig. 113
46
Fig. 114 — Rear Axle Housing Race Puller
Figure 114 illustrates pulling the axle shaft inner
bearing assembly, Part BB-4222. It is recom-
mended that a special puller be used for this
operation.
The bearing race is replaced in the rear axle
housing by using a press, as shown in Figure 115,
To remove the differential gear and pinion, detach
the hydraulic mechanism parts as previously de-
Fig. 116 — Differential Assembly
scribed and separate the center housing from the
transmission.
Next remove the left axle housing, Figure 116.
The differential then can be easily pulled out.
DITIONING DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY
The axle shaft inner bearing cone and roller
assembly, Part BB-4221-B, can be removed by
means of a puller. This operation is illustrated in
Figure 117. To install a new assembly, a driver
should be used as shown in Figure 118.
Fig. 117 Fig. 118
To replace the differential spider, Part 4211, or
pinion gears, Part 4215, cut off the locking wires
and remove the eight differential case screws.
The halves of the differential gear case assembly,
Part 4207, are machined together as a unit and
should always be used in the same relative position.
Identifying numbers are stamped on both halves of
“the differential case, as illustrated in Figure 119.
These parts should always be reassembled with the
numbers in the position illustrated.
After removing the differential case cover, the
differential gear thrust washer, Part 4228, and
differential gear, Part 4236, can be lifted off. Then
remove the differential spider, Part 4211, differen
tial pinion, Part 4215, and pinion thrust washer,
Part 4230. This will leave only the other differential
gear, Part 4236, and thrust washer, Part 4228, re-
maining in the other half of the differential case.
These parts then may be removed.
DIFFERENTIAL
In the event a new differential gear and pinion
are being installed, it is advisable to secure a
matched gear and pinion set, Part 4203, in order
to secure proper mesh and quietness. These parts
are matched, run in at the factory, and numbered
to identify them as matched sets.
No particular harm will be done, however, if the
ring gear and pinion are not matched. Under no
circumstances should a new ring gear be matched
with a used pinion or vice versa. If one is being re-
placed, the other should also be replaced.
In order to pull the pinion, remove the six bolts
that attach the pinion bearing retainer, Part
BB-4614-B, to the center housing. Then install
screws furnished with the puller in every other hole
and position triangular voke, as shown in Figure 120.
To replace this pinion assembly, position the
screws through the pinion bearing retainer. Then
screw into place, as shown in Figure 121.
REAR AXLE
ED
Fig. 121 — Replacing Pinion Bearings
REPLACI
Place the pinion bearing housing assembly in a
vise equipped with brass jaws and then bend the
Fig. 122 — Bending Lock Washer Lug
lug of the lock washer away from the adjusting nut
as shown in Figure 122. Figure 123 illustrates the
use of pinion bearing lock nut wrenches. Remove
Fig. 123 — Lock Nut Wrenches
48
the lock nut and washer, the adjusting nut and
thrust tongued washer, Part 4667. With these parts
removed, the bearing and housing can be lifted off
the pinion shaft. | |
To remove the roller bearing and race assemblies,
Parts 4621 and 4616, from the pinion shaft, use a
Fig. 124 — Pulling Pmion Bearing
puller as illustrated in Figure 124. This tool removes
or replaces roller bearing races on the pinion shaft.
It is a very difficult operation without this special
tool, |
Examine the bearing cup in the pinion bearing
housing and if necessary to replace the cup, proceed
Fig. 125 — Bearing Cup Press
as follows: Hold the driving pinion bearing housing
assembly in a vise equipped with brass jaws, as
shown in Figure 125. Place the jaws of the puller
behind the bearing cup and tighten the puller nut.
New bearing races are reinstalled in the housing
by means of a press, the use of which is illustrated
in Figure 125.
Install the pinion shaft bearings in the housing, as
Fig. 126 - Tnstalling Pinion Shaft Bearings
illustrated i in Figure 126, without any lubricant on
the bearings. The lubricant should not be applied
to the bearing until after the bearing tension has
been adjusted. Install the thrust washer, Part 4667,
Fig. 127 — Reassembling Pinion Shaft Bearing
and bearing adjusting nut, Part 4634, on the
shaft. Then tighten the adjusting nut and install the
lock washer, Part 4636, and lock nut, Part 4634.
Use the pinion bearing adjusting nut wrenches,
illustrated in Figure 127, to tighten or loosen the
adjusting and lock nuts. Use 12 to 16-pound pull as —
indicated on the tension scale, The use of this gage
is illustrated in Figure 127.
After securing the correct tension on the bearing,
49
REAR AXLE
lock both the adjusting nut and lock nuts in place
by bending the lug on the lock washer.
Make sure that the bearings are carefully lubri-
cated after completing adj justment of the tension on
the bearing pinion.
BEARINGS
When it is necessary to replace the pinion roller
bearings, use a puller, as illustrated in Figure 128,
for removing the bearing. By turning the nut with
a special wrench, the bearing is pulled towards the
wrench.
To replace the pinion roller bearing, the opposite
end of the tool is used with the disc in place. B
tightening the nut with an end wrench, the bearing
is correctly seated.
Fig. 128 — Drive Pinion Roller Bearing Puller
LOWER LINK SUPPORT
The rear part of the lower link support, Part
9N-562, on tractors up to Serial No. 76868 is fas-
tened to the axle housing by a bolt, castellated nut,
and cotter key. The nut and cotter key are located
on the inside of the axle housing
It is important on all tractors up to Serial No.
76868 that the bolt and nut be checked for tight-
ness, whenever the axle housing is removed from
the center housing. Ordinarily, the nut can be
given one or two complete turns.
Under no circumstances, however, should the
head of the bolt, that is on the outside, be turned
unless the axle housing is removed. To do so will
break the bolt seal and may start a grease leak,
On tractors after Serial No. 76868 the lower link
support is fastened with a stud. The axle housing
is drilled and tapped, and the nut on the outer end
of the stud permits tightening at any time.
The front wheels are steel discs, fitted with 4x19
single-rib pneumatic tires on drop center rims.
The front axle is made in three parts and the
tread is adjustable from 48” to 727 by assembling
the three parts of the axle to the proper length.
Additional width from 72” to 7 6” is obtainable by
reversing the front wheels. When adjusting the
front wheel tread, it is first necessary to loosen the
bolt through the radius rod. Then spread the axle
as desired. No change in the steering connection is
necessary. Always assemble the axle with one hole
between the bolts holding the sections together,
never in adjacent holes. Figure 129 shows the cor-
rect assembly.
Fig. 129 — Front Axle Assembly
The front tires should be inflated to 26 pounds
*
pressure and should be kept in perfect al
order to get maximum wear.
Proper alignment for the front wheels 1s from
O to 14” “toe-in””. The measurement should be taken,
as shown in Figure 130. Make sure that the measur-
gnment in
Fig, 130 —“ToeIn” Alignment
. 50
ing stick is held at the same height as the wheel
hubs.
The adjustment of this ‘’toe-in’’ is accomplished
through either one of the drag links, as shown in
Figure 131.
7 o
Fig. 131 — Adjusting Drag Link
Correct removal of the drag link is shown in
Figure 132. Note that the left hand pulls up while
the spindle arm is struck a sharp blow with a ham-
mer. Under no circumstances, try to remove this
rod by hammering on the end of the bolt.
Fig. 132 — Removing Drag Link
STEERING AND
LE ASSEMBLIES
TIMING STEERIF
Under very severe conditions, the steering sec-
tors may get out of “time”. When this occurs, it
can be remedied by matching the two steering sec-
tor gears with the steering pinion, as shown in
UA
Fig. 133 — Steering Sector Timing
Figure 133. Note that the first tooth of each sector
is meshing with the steering pinion.
Timing can be accomplished without removing
the steering housing. Disconnect the drag links
from the steering sector arms. Move the left sector
Fig. 134 — Steering Housings
51
arm completely to the rear and the right sector arm
completely to the front, as shown in Figure 133.
Gradually lower both sectors until they engage the
steering pimion at the same time. If both sectors
mesh correctly, both arms, when lowered, will stand
exactly over the center of the foot rests.
Connect the drag links to the steering arm sectors
and check the front wheels for alignment as pre-
viously shown.
Figure 134 illustrates the upper and lower steer-
ing housing ready for disassembly.
To remove the upper steering housing, take out
the six bolts, and lift off. Figure 133 shows the bot-
tom view of the upper housing. Figure 135 illus-
trates the steering sectors and steering pinion in
place with the lower housing. Figure 136 shows the
parts of the upper and lower housing assembly.
To remove the steering post shaft, loosen the
lock nut, Part 351119-8, and lock washer, Part
351544-8. It is recommended that an assembly
stand and special wrenches be used for convenient
disassembly. The top roller bearing can be removed
with fingers. Lift the dash from the stand and the
shaft will drop out. To reassemble, these operations
must be reversed.
Examine the steering post roller bearing race
carefully and, if necessary, replace it by using a
puller and replacer, as shown in Figure 137.
This same tool seats both steering shaft roller
bearing races simultaneously and insures perfect
alignment.
STEERING AND
AXLE ASSEMBLIES
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Fig. 137 — Steering Post Bearing Race Puller and Replacer
52
Fig. 138 — Removing Upper and Lower Steering Housings
REMOVAL OF UPPER AND LOWER
To remove the upper and lower steering housings
as a unit, remove the six bolts and disconnect drag
links and lift off the assembly, as shown in Figure
ing the transmission, starter button and shaft or
gearshift lever.
The sectional view of the front wheel and spindle
is shown in Figure 139.
Figures 140 and 141 illustrate the front axle
assembly.
In order to remove the front wheel hub, unscrew
the cap, Part 1139, pull the cotter key from castel-
lated nut, unscrew and remove the washer, Part
1195. Remove the inner and outer bearings and
carefully remove the grease seal. Where no hub
grease fittings are provided, bearings are packed
with a good grade of short fiber grease once each
season and they should be examined at least once
during the middle of each season. Clean all parts
very carefully after removing them from the spindle,
as shown in Figure 142.
Fig. 140 — Front Axle
Fig. 139
Front Axle Hub and Spindle
Assembly
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Fig. 141 — Front Axle Assembly
53
STEERING AND AXLE ASSEMBLIES
To reassemble, replace the parts in the reverse
order. Be sure that the grease seal, Part 1190-18, is
assembled with the rubber facing toward the center
of the tractor. (Early model tractors can be equip-
ped with this type seal.) Pack the bearings well
with a high-grade fiber grease and put on the washer
and castellated nut.
Figure 143 illustrates adjusting the roller bear-
ings. It is recommended that the nut be turned in
until the wheel is tight and will no longer revolve.
The new type grease seal furnishes a certain amount
of resistance and this resistance must not be taken
as an indication that the bearings are tight. Make
sure that the wheel is tight and will no longer turn,
then back off the nut approximately one-half turn,
Fig. 142 ~ Cleaning Spindle Parts
until the wheel turns freely. Insert the cotter key in
the castellated nut and screw on the hub cap.
LE ASSEMBLY
In order to remove the spindle from the front
axle, remove the nut from the spindle bolt locking
pin, Part 3122, then drive the pin out. Avoid up-
setting the threads on the pin.
The spindle arm, Part 3131-LH or 3130-EH, may
then be removed, and the spindle itself can be
pulled out of the axle.
After cleaning the parts thoroughly, notice the
condition of the bearing, Part 3123, and, if neces-
sary, replace it. The spindle bushings should be
examined carefully for wear. If necessary, replace
these bushings with a spindle bushing puller and a
spindle bushing press. The old bushings are pulled
one at a time, but the new bushings are replaced in
one operation with the piloted “draw in" press
which prevents upsetting the bushing ends.
After new bronze bushings have been pressed in
place, they must be reamed to size. A special piloted
steel reamer and wrench insure perfect fit and
alignment, as illustrated in Figure 144, Beam only
bronze bushings.
When assembling the spindle to the axle, make
sure that the bearing and the bushings are well
lubricated and that the dust shield, Part 3528, is in
good condition. Make sure that the steering arm
fits perfectly and that the spindle bolt locking pin,
Part 3122, is in its correct position and tightened
securely.
Fig. 143 — Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings
54
Fig, 144 — Beaming Bronze Bushings
FRONT AXLE PIN BUSHINGS
To replace the front axle pin, remove the front
axle pin bolt, Part 350635, and the axle support
check nut, and then pull the front axle pin, Part
3126-A, as illustrated in Figure 145, by the use of
the starting crank and a hammer.
The front axle bushing assembly, Part 3039, may
then be removed from the center section of the front
axle. Take careful note of the position of this front
axle bushing before removing it in order to be sure
that the new bushing is installed in its correct posi-
tion. Figure 146 shows the correct position of the
bushing; you will note that the split side of the
bushing is always up.
The installation of the crankshaft pulley assem-
Fig. 145 — Pulling Axle Pin
BLIES
bly, Part 6312, or the crankshaft ratchet, Part
6319-4, is accomplished by first removing the front
axle support assembly. |
Fig. 146 — Front Axle Support Assembly
REAR WHEELS
The rear wheels are steel discs, fitted with 10x28-
inch pneumatic tires on drop center rims. The
recommended tire pressure is 12 pounds and it is
suggested that, when plowing, the right wheel be
inflated to 14 pounds.
The tread at the rear wheels of the tractor is ad-
justable by means of assembling the disc and rim
in different positions, as shown in Figure 147. Treads
of 48, 52, 64 or 68 inches are made without changing
rear wheels to the opposite side of the tractor.
Treads of 56, 60, 72 or 76 inches are made with rear
wheels changed to the opposite side of the tractor.
Keep the tires running in the proper direction. The
arrow on the side wall of the tires must always
point in the direction of forward travel.
Fig. 147 — Rear Wheel Tread Adjustment
55
STEERING AND AXLE ASSEMBLIES
CLUTCH PEDAL
The brake and clutch pedal should be adjusted,
as shown in Figure 148. Clutch pedal should have
A." of free travel, then an additional 14%" travel
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Fig. 148 — Clutch Pedal Adjustment
before the clutch pedal contacts the brake shaft
arm. Make the measurements from the point indi-
cated by the arrow in Figure 148, and check these
measurements at regular intervals,
BRAKES
The tractor can be securely locked in position by
setting both brakes and locking them with pawl, as
shown in Figure 149.
Pig. 149 — Brake Pawl
56
The brake shoes may be easily adjusted by turn-
ing the brake adjusting stem, as shown in Figure
150. Correct adjustment of brake shoes is obtained
by jacking up the rear end of the tractor and tight-
ening each brake adjusting stem, Part 2038, until
the wheel can no longer be turned. “Back off” the
stem, approximately 34 of a turn, until the wheel
revolves freely.
Fig. 150 — Brake Adjusting Stem
When it is necessary to replace or service the
brake lining or shoes, remove the wheel and the
rear axle as shown in Figure 112, page 46.
Make sure that the brakes are assembled, as
shown in Figure 151. You will note that there are
three different size springs and these springs must
be put in their correct position. If new linings are
attached to old shoes, make sure that they are
smooth and securely riveted.
Fig. 151 — Brake Shoes
POV
ER TAKE-OFF, BELT PULLEY AND DRAWE
The end of the brake lining should be chamfered
or beveled to at least a 45° angle. This operation
assists in keeping the brake from sticking.
Sticky brakes are usually caused by an excessive
amount of dirt inside the drum. When this occurs,
remove the brake drums and clean thoroughly.
Sticky brakes may also be caused by the end of
the brake shoe binding on the brake camshaft
bracket, Part 2304. Brake shoes should be examined
carefully and, if sharp edges are found, they should
be rounded with a file. The brake wedge, Part 2050,
should also be examined to make sure that it is
working freely.
If the brake dust shield is in good condition and
the brakes are thoroughly cleaned and properly
assembled with all working parts free to operate,
sticky brakes will be eliminated. |
POWER TAKE-OFF ASSEMBLY
The power take-off shaft extends from the rear
of the center housing: it is designed so that the belt
pulley can be quickly attached.
The power take-off shaft has a 114" splined end
for fitting to drives of power-driven equipment. It
has 509 R.P.M. at an engine speed of 1400 R.P.M.
— 2.75 to 1 ratio. |
Figure 152 is a cross-sectional view of the rear
end of the power take-off shaft and the bearing
assembly.
To remove the power take-off from the tractor,
take out the four cap screws and pull the shaft to
the rear.
To replace the oil seal in case of oil leakage, re-
move the cotter key and pin, Part 73984-8. Figure
152 illustrates the cap, springs and oil seal, Part
727. In reassembling, make sure that this oil seal 1s
assembled so that the lip is toward the front of the
tractor. See that it is not curled.
Fig. 157 — Power Take-Off Shaft
57
Figure 155 shows the power take-off and belt
pulley parts,
To remove or disassemble the bearings from the
power take-off cover, unscrew the cap, Part 726,
then remove the retainer, Part 734, and place the
shaft in position so that the cover, Part 733, can be
pushed toward the inside end of the shaft. Figure
153 illustrates this assembly removed.
To remove the bearing, Part 712, the sleeve,
Part 735, will have to be destroyed by splitting it
with a hammer and chisel. Then place the power
take-off in a press and push the bearing toward the
rear end of the shaft. Examine the bearings and all
Fig. 153 — Disassembled Power Take-Off
parts carefully and reassemble in the reverse order.
After pressing on the bearing, Part 712, heat a
new sleeve to expand it, and put it in position
behind the bearing.
When reassembling the parts in front of the
cover, be sure the grease seal 18 not curled, and also
make sure that the springs and washers are all in
good condition and properly fitted.
POWER TAKE-OFF, BELT PULLEY AND DREAW
Figure 154 shows
the left inspection
plate of the center
housing which con-
tains the power take-
off shifter lever. The
power take-off is in
gear when this lever is
pushed completely to
the rear. It is out of
gear when it 1s pulled
completely to the
Fig. 154
Power Take-Off Shifter Lever | front.
‘The belt pulley can be attached quickly to the
rear of the tractor after removing the power take-off
shaft cap and check chain brackets. It is a self-
contained drive unit with a 9” diameter and 6.5”
width pulley. Its speed is 1358 R.P.M., belt speed
3200 feet per minute at 2000 engine R.P.M. The
pulley gear ratio to power take-off shaft ia 1,87 to 1.
Rotation in either direction can be had by mount-
ing the belt pulley to the left or to the right of the
center of the tractor, or it can be mounted with
the pulley toward the ground. The latter posi-
tion is often used when driving an irrigation pump.
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The belt pulley contains its own reservoir of oil,
and should be kept filled to the high level plug with
the same lubricant that is used in the transmission
and differential.
Figure 155 shows the belt pulley parts. When itis
necessary to overhaul the belt pulley, make sure
that new gaskets are used; see that the bearings
fit perfectly, and that the bolts and nuts are securely
tightened. |
The adjustable drawbar is attached, as shown in
Figure 156. The standard setting of 1714 inches
from the drawbar to the ground is obtained when
‘the notches on the stay assembly links are matched,
but it may be easily adjusted up or down to suit
different pull-type implements.
Figure 157 illustrates the installation of the safety
chain and wedge assembly, Part 5370, that is used
when the drawbar and the drawbar stay assemblies
are attached to the tractor. This chain and wedge
assembly locks the hand control lever into a down
position and makes it impossible to operate the
hydraulic mechanism. The power take-off should
always be thrown out of gear when using the trac-
tor for drawbar work unless an implement is being
59
PULLEY AND
pulled that requires power from the power take-off
to operate it, such as a combine, corn picker or
potato digger, |
Adjustable Drawbar
Safety Loc
RENO
The winter storage of a tractor should be given
very careful consideration. Improper storage is
likely to cause undue trouble and loss of time in the
spring. The Dilo suggestions should be care-
The removal of a tractor from storage will require
careful attention before it is ready to be used.
1. Remove the rag plugs from the exhaust
10.
11.
fully observed:
1. Store the tractor in a dry, well-protected
— place. Tf a shed is not available, cover with
a tarpaulin.
. Clean the tractor thoroughly with kerosene
or gasoline, using a stiff brush to remove
all the dirt.
. Drain the crankcase oil after the engine
has been thoroughly warmed, clean the
pump screen, then refill with a good grade
winter weight oil as suggested in Lubrica-
tion Section. Run the engine one or two
minutes to distribute new oil throughout
the engine, but do not allow the engine to
get hot.
. Drain the water or cooling solution from
the engine block and radiator and leave the
drain plugs open. |
. Remove the spark plugs as soon as the en-
gine has cooled and put 14% pint of crank-
case oil in each cylinder. Turn engine by
hand a few times to distribute the oil, then
replace the spark plugs.
. Drain all fuel from the tank and carburetor
and leave the drains open. Clean the car-
buretor thoroughly and blow out the gas
line.
Lubricate all the bearings and grease fit-
tings thoroughly.
. Remove the valve cover and apply oil to
the valve stems and springs to prevent
rusting or sticking of the parts.
. Stop up the end of the engine exhaust pipe
and the crankcase breather pipe with aclean
rag to keep moisture from entering.
Tractors that are equipped with rubber
tires should be jacked up and blocked, to
take the weight off tires and prevent the
tires from touching the ground or floor.
Remove the storage battery, make sure
that it is fully charged and stored in a place
where it will not freeze. The battery should
be checked at regular intervals throughout
the winter and recharged if necessary.
10,
00
and crankcase breather pipes.
. Drain the oil from the crankcase and flush
the crankcase with a good grade of flushing
oil. Then refill with new oil in accordance
with lubrication chart. Kerosene is not
recommended as a flush for some of it may
| remain in the crankcase and dilute the
fresh oil. Use only a good grade of flushing
oil. |
. Remove the spark plugs and put 14 cup of
light oil through the spark plug openings
into each cylinder. Do not replace the plugs
in the engine until later.
, Remove the valve cover and thoroughly
lubricate the valve stems and springs. Oper-
ate each valve by hand to make sure none
are sticking. Crank the engine at least fifty
revolutions by hand to make sure that the
fresh oil is distributed throughout the en-
gine.
. Replace battery, spark plugs and valve
СОМ.
Lubricate all the working parts of the trac-
tor.
Loosen the three drain plugs at the bottom
of the transmission and differential housings
enough to allow any water that has accu-
mulated in the housings to drain. Water
will be in the bottom and will drain out
first. As soon as vou see oil appearing
around the plugs, retighten them securely.
Close the drain plugs in the fuel tank and
cooling system and refill as instructed in
the Fuel and Cooling System Section of
this book.
. Start the engine and allow it to run at not
more than M speed for three or four min-
utes, It is best to remove from the storage
room immediately to avoid the danger of
exhaust gases.
Check the air in rubber tires and inflate to
their recommended pressure.
es
weep
Because Ferguson Plow Shares, Sweeps and Shovels are
especially designed for Ferguson Implements, they not only
fit better, but they work better in the field, |
Ferguson Ground Engaging Parts are designed to take the
soil at just the proper angle, proved best by field tests.
A Wide Variety of Plow Shares — Ferguson Plow Shares
are available for practically every kind of soil. The Cast Alloy
Steel Shares are outstanding for their long-wearing qualities.
They can be heated, reshaped and sharpened. Soft Center Steel
Shares are available for “hard scouring” conditions. Chilled
Iron Shares, either Standard or Deep Suck, are supplied for
soils having abrasive qualities.
Cultivator Sweeps and Shovels — Well-finished and
properly sharpened Ferguson Cultivator Sweeps and Shovels
are available for a wide variety of uses and soils. Spearhead
Shovels, for example, are designed for hard soils or stony con-
ditions. Halfsweeps can be supplied where they are preferred
for use next to the rows. Reversible points, quack grass points,
chisel points and alfalfa points are designed for tough jobs.
a. [ All will give long field service that makes them outstan |
General Purpose Chilled Base Share low in overall cost.
Chisel Point
Quack Grass
Shovel Spearhead
Shovel
Reversible Point
PLOWS and MIDDLEBUSTERS — Rugged, hght-weight, types and sizes for a TERRACING PLOW — Entirely new
variety of conditions. — for modern erosion control,
TILLER — For heavy cultivation and
for rough conditions,
PLANTERS — Check-row or drill — ROW CROP CULTIVATORS ~ Strong and light. Ouickly detachable — adaptable
seed plates to suit hybrid seed, to variety of crops. .
FOUR-ROW WEEDER — Folding ends RIDGER — Specially designed for
make it easy to pass through gates. potatoes and other ridged crops.
62
FARM MOWER — Rear cutter bar HEAVY DUTY MOWER — For hard CROSS.CUT SAW — Quickly attached,
type — easy to detach, farm service or highway work, portable, swing-table model.
SPREADER and TRAILER — Both use exclusive Ferguson trailer
hitch which increases traction by distributing a portion of the load to all four wheels Finger-tip eontrol.
of the tractor. |
WOOD BROS, COMBINE, CORN PICKER, THRESHER ~— Well-established outstanding harvesting
sold and serviced by Ferguson Dealers,
equipment, now
L CER — Efficient carth-moving W.W GEINDERS-— For green or dry
and ground-leveling implement. feed. Now sold and serviced by Ferguso
Dealers.
03
The Ford Motor Company warrants all such parts of new Ford
Tractors, EXCEPT TIRES, for a period of ninety (90) days from
the date of orig
tractor, as shall, under normal use and service, appear to it to
inal delivery to the purchaser of each new Ford
have been defective in workmanship or material. This warranty
shall be limited to shipment to the purchaser without charge,
except for transportation, of the part or parts intended to replace
those acknowledged by the Ford Motor Company to be defective.
The Ford Motor Company cannot, however, and does not accept
any responsibility in connection with any of its tractors when
they have been altered outside of its own factories or branch
plants. If the purchaser shall use or allow to be used in the trac-
tor, parts not made or supplied by the Ford Motor Company,
then this warranty shall become void. The Ford Motor Company
does not undertake responsibility to any purchaser of its products
for any undertaking, representation or warranty made by anyone ; ;
selling its products beyond those herein expressed. |
The Ford Motor Company reserves the right to make changes
in design and changes or improvements upon its product without
imposing any obligation upon itself to install the same upon its
products theretofore manufactured.
TIRE ITY
Every tractor tire manufactured by the Ford Motor Company,
bearing its name and serial number and used in farm service and
agriculture, is warranted by it to be free from defects in work-
manship and material without limit as to time or mileage and to
give satisfactory service under normal operating conditions. If
the Ford Motor Company's examination shows that any tire has
failed under the terms of this warranty, it will at its option either
repair the tire or make an allowance on the purchase of a new tire.
FORD MOTOR COMPANY
64
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