Troy-Bilt 8 HP Owner's Manual

The Professional /
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Your new 8HP Tiller is the newest and top-of-the-line of the
TROY-BILT® Roto Tiller-Power Composters. в
Since your new 8HP Professional Model Troy-Bilt Tiller There are two models of the 8HP Professional Troy-Bilt
is the newest and biggest powered tiller that we have Tiller, both come with Bar Tread Tires and a protective
ever made, we wanted to make sure that you have Bumper. See photos below.
proper instructions which will clarify different features
on the 8HP Briggs & Stratton Engine that are unlike IMPORTANT MESSAGE
any of the other model Troy-Bilt Tillers previous In the first few hours of operation, you will have to:
to it. For one thing, the 8HP Industrial/Commercial ® Adjust the drive belt
engine has a new 2-stage air cleaner which we feel is * Change the engine oil after five hours of operation
going to provide much better protection against (you'll need one quart, plus 12 ounces of clean
dirt trying to get into your engine. The engine also motor oil)
has a slightly different throttle cable arrangement and ® Inspect your tiller transmission to make sure that
a different means of connecting it to the speed control there are no oil leaks. (An unlikely prospect but
assembly. There are also slight differences in the you'd best look to be on the safe side).
battery recharging system for electric start 8HP tillers
than from previous ones. So all in all with these
changes in the 8HP Model from all other previous
Troy-Bilt Tillers we felt it best that you have your own
special supplementary manual to cover those differ-
ences in one place for you.
Also important, make sure that you install your
bumper on the tiller before you use it. The bumper has
been designed to protect your air cleaner and engine.
8 Horsepower Recoil Start Professional Model. 8 Horsepower Electric Start Professional Model,
Shown with bumper installed. completely assembled. Shows electric start system
with key switch.
OWNERS MANUAL
for
FOUR-SPEED Horse Model
TROY-BILT Roto Tiller-Power Composter
(MNL-24H)
Your Briggs é Stratton Engine
"OWNER'S PAMPHLET"
How To Use This 8HP Tiller Supplement
Use this Supplement to your Owner's Manual for
preparation of your 8HP Briggs & Stratton Engine
and its electric start system (if that's what you ordered)
and for installation of the bumper on the tiller.
For Key Electric Start Engines Only —
Please note that there are one or two steps for you to
take to protect the red recharging line and the green
shutoff wire from the key switch—before you install
the bumper. So, follow those instructions for the
guidance through those steps.
There will be frequent references in this Supplement
to assembly steps found in your 216-page Owner's
Manual where you will find specific details about
such things as inspecting your tiller shipping
material, attaching the handlebars, adding motor oil
to the engine, attaching the Forward/Reverse Lever
and hooking up the throttle cable. So, please use
both this Supplement and your Owner's Manual
when assembling your new tiller.
Use the 8 HP Supplement with the Owner's Manual
and it should answer most of the questions that will
arise. But, please let us know if you need any help in
answering some questions. Also, make sure that you
read the Briggs & Stratton Owner's Pamphlet.
Table of Contents
Subject Page
First few hours of operation... ....... Inside front cover
Start assembling tiller ........ cocina e. 2
Checking level of transmission gear oil , ............ 3
Adding motor oil to engine ....................... 3
Install your bumper ................— reee. 4
Install battery cables for electric start .............. 9
Safety precautions for electric start ........... 10 & 13
Electric start diagram... ... coir EEE 14
Attach throttle cable. .............e ee. 2er. 15-16
SHOT COM OB 20.0 caries SEIEN EEE БОБ TEN: 15-17
Subject Page
GRORC ss dus SEE PA. Creme mI eee 17
Fuel valve ............._.__eorcrereearere0.. ee. 16
Gasoline ,........—ec_.eerecoacoooaareo eee 18
Motor Oil VISCOSIty vie eee ees 18
Motor oil capacity of engine ................... 3, 24
Tiller and engine controls and operation ....... 19, 20
Tier malmenarce' ... .—.—. e. casas mares a A vi 20
Air cleaner maintenance"... KLEE KETTE vu 20, 23
Carburetor adjustments.................0...02. 1... 25
How to disconnect diode from recharging line ..... 27
LETS START ASSEMBLING YOUR TILLER Removing The Tiller From Skid
ELECTRIC START Æ
PARTS YOU'LL NEED MOTOR OIL
(PLASTIC PACKAGE) ON TOP
WHEEL SPEED HAMDLEBARS
SHIFT LEVER
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FORWARD/REVERSE
LEVER
BATTERY, IF YOU ORDERED ML
SKID
ELECTRIC START
Once the shrink wrap plastic has been removed, your
tiller looks like this 6HP Model shown in the photo.
4 #
Once the "T" bar and the handlebar adjustment lever
(with blackknob) are securely in place, the handlebars
Will act as very effective levers to assist you in
removing the tiller from the shipping skid.
First, push up on the bars and then pull the bars
to your left, as shown in Photo 4. A wheel should
come out of the fiberboard well. You might need a
carefully placed foot to keep the skid from rotating.
Unhooking the Forward/Reverse Lever is simply a
matter of taking a screwdriver and prying out the
staples that hold the lever to the board running
beneath the tiller.
Remove the “T" Bar and install the handlebars (do not
install the Forward/Reverse Lever or the throttle cable, 3
hi 4 e oa Е = Now, just pull back with both handlebars and the
at this time). See Owner's Manual on Pages 9,10,4 11. | О -
tiller will roll off the skid easily and quickly.
‚| CHECK THE TRANSMISSION GEAR OIL LEV
ADD MOTOR OIL TO YOUR ENGINE
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DRAG BAR
Start on level ground. Put a small board (about
1%" thick) under the drag bar to level the engine
base. Get the base approximately level with
the ground.
Use a small screw-
driver or similar tool
and wedge it between
the two tabs of the
motor oil fill hole.
Turn it counterclock-
wise (to the left). Be
sure to keep the lip of
the hole clean of dirt
and grime.
USE OIL FILL E
HOLE ON RIGHT [|
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Your tiller's transmission was filled at the tiller factory
with SAE #140 gear oil. But, we want you to double-
check the oil level before using your tiller to make sure
it is absolutely correct. Please refer to Pages 12-13 or
Page 118 of your Owner's Manual for details on how to
check the gear oil level. It only takes a few minutes to
perform this very important check.
==
ry
Use the white funnel provided in the oil package
and add motor oil to the engine crankcase through
this oil fill hole. It will take about 2% pints (or 44
ounces, or about 1 quart plus 12 ounces), But, be sure
to fill the oil to the point of overflowing. Use the oil fill
hole on the right side only. You'll note an oil fill
position on the left side too, but that's there for other
machines, not your Troy-Bilt Tiller. It can't be used for
electric start Troy-Bilt Tillers because the starter motor
is in the way.
IMPORTANT—If you have an electric start 8HP
Tiller you must protect the electrical wiring,
particularly the green shutoff wire and the red
battery recharging line shown in the photos
below. When installing the bumper, make sure
that you don't damage the insulation on these
wires. The instructions that follow on page 4
will show you how to get them out of the way.
TO INSTALL YOUR BUMPER PHOTOS 13, 14 & 15
STEP 1 Preparing Your Tiller
FOR KEY ELECTRIC START ENGINES ONLY
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Near the bottom of the engine on the right side (that
Is the carburetor and muffler side) you'll find that
the green (shutoff) wire coming from the key switch
leads to a clip. Depress the clip underneath the wire
and remove the green wire temporarily — see
Photo 13.
PRESS HERE
TO RELEASE
Ts
Use needle nose pliers to remove the thread-
protecting the plastic plugs from the motor mount
bars. See Photo 11.
13A Two white plastic wire ties (see arrow above)
secure a red and a green wire to the engines fuel line.
Before going on, loosen (but don't remove) the ties by
pressing down on the small "locking" tab as you push
the long end of the tie Geli — see sketch above.
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N o Pull the green wire through the open loop of the wire
tie as shown in Photo 14, and also remove it from
Remove the large red plastic plug from the threaded the second wire tie on the other side of the engine.
hole in the bottom center of the transmission — Move the green wire and plug back out of the way
see Photo 12. on the left side.
4
Next, remove the red recharging line with the terminal
hanging free at the starter motor end of the looped
Pick up the bumper as shown in Photo 16. Hold the
bumper level and carefully lower it so that it clears the
fuel tank on your right and the chrome-plated air
cleaner and the muffler on your left.
Next, as shown in Photo 17, lower the bumper to get
clear of the recoil starter in the front and the air
cleaner and muffler. If the battery is installed on
bracket, lower the wrap-around almost to the floor.
wire. This wire was not connected to the engine's
battery recharging line to make it easier for you to
remove it temporarily, while attaching your bumper to
your tiller. If the wire is connected, see page 27.
Leave the red recharging wire back out of your way
and move the green wire and wire harness for the
key switch over to the fuel tank side (left) of the
battery bracket—near the heavy red starter cables
attached to the starting solenoid on that side. Now,
you're ready to install your bumper!
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Now, lower the bumper over the motor mount and
the spring and plunger so that the little legs line up with
the holes in the motor mount bars.
Thread a small (%'-16 x 1") bolt through a 38”
lockwasher and the bumper legs, then into each motor
mount bar. Use your fingers to start the bolts and then
use a 9/16" wrench as shown in Photo 19. Don't
tighten the bolts up just yet.
-
STEP 3 Attaching the Underbrace to the
Transmission and to the Wrap-around Bumper
Take the 14" long bolts, lockwashers and nuts and put
the bolts through the two holes in the underbrace and
through the wraparound tubing. Then, add the lock-
washers and the nuts and tighten them up finger
tight as shown in Photo 22.
Next, go back up to the bolts on top of the motor mount
bars and make sure that they are threaded in far
enough to hold the wraparound assembly for a while
e) and turn your attention back to the large bolt
Underneath the transmission shown in Photo 21. Now
you may tighten this bolt holding the underbrace to
the transmission.
The underbrace has a plate with one large hole at
one end and another plate with two smaller holes at
the other end. You'll need the large 2-inch heavy
bolt and heavy washer, plus a polished metal spacer
that is tapered on one end. See Photos 20 and 21 for the
line-up. The large bolt (1-13 x 2”) first receives a
lockwasher then goes through the hole in the end of
the plate. Then the bolt goes through the spacer, with
the tapered end toward the transmission.
Use two '/” wrenches for final tightening.
You can return to the 1%” bolts shown in Photo 22
and tighten those with two wrenches. Next, go back up
to the small bolts on top of the motor mount bars
and tighten them completely, making sure that the leg
of the underbrace is securely clamped to the top of the
motor mount bar.
IMPORTANT: When positioning the bumper, make
sure that the upper bar on the right-hand side isn't
N ; | touching the engine's chrome-plated air cleaner
Use a %" wrench, line up the bolt and spacer with cover. If it is, simply shift the bumper away from
the hole — see Photo 21. This is the hole where you the air cleaner (while the bumper mounting bolts
removed the large : | are still loose), until it is at least +" away from the
ye paste preteción Fur Ihe Holt on cover. Check this clearance again when you
only three quarters of the way now. securely tighten the bolts.
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duce FLIP WRENCH 4
As shown in Photos 23 & 24, you can use a 9/16"
wrench and get it under the wraparound and move the
bolt inward clockwise. If you note the position of the
wrench on the head of the bolt in Photo 23 and
compare it with the position of the wrench in Photo 24,
you'll see that all you need to do is flip the wrench
over each stroke of the wrench and flop it back
the next stroke and it will increase the speed at which
you are able to secure these bolts properly. Make sure
you tighten these bolts securely on both sides of
bumper. When all bolts on the bumper assembly
are securely tightened, you're ready to put the
electrical wires back into position.
If you're trying to tighten the motor mount bars as
shown in Photos 19, 23 & 24 and the motor mount bar
turns arcund with the bolt, see Photos 24A and 24B on
how to stop the bar from turning.
Loosen the jam nut on the bolt as shown in Photo 24A.
Then, as shown in Photo 24B, turn the bolt in a
little more than “finger tight" to hold the bar from
turning. Be sure, when you're done installing the
bumper, to back that bolt off no more than one
quarter of a turn and relock the jam nut using
two wrenches — one which holds the bolt in position,
the other to tighten the nut.
STEP 4 Reattaching The Electrical Wires
Removed Earlier
As shown in Photo 25, take the electrical wires that
you had moved out of the way earlier and pick up the
red recharging line and thread it back through the
plastic wire tie and over toward the terminal leading
from the starter motor.
Looking at the starter motor under the fuel tank,
you'll find a red wire that comes out from below and
behind the starter motor. That wire is the battery
recharging line which contains the diode that aids in
the recharging of your battery. The small tubular
protector for terminal should be removed, as shown in
Photo 26 (and perhaps saved for future use).
Take the red wire that you have just put through the
plastic loop and pick up the other terminal from
underneath the starter motor as shown in Photo 26
and push the two together so that the little tabs on the
recharging line snap onto the wire you just brought to
it. That's all you need do.
You should leave this wire in place at all times when
you operate your tiller. Now, turn your attention back
to the green wire which you removed earlier.
Simply thread the green wire back through the plastic
loop where you had replaced the red wire. Run the
green wire along behind the fuel line, past the fuel filter
and come down to the back of the governor speed
control assembly bracket. Just above the clip you had
released this wire from earlier there's a hole in the
bracket. Thread the wire through that hole and back
into the clip. Make sure that the other wire that was
already in the clip is still securely in place and both
wires are secure. See photos 27 and 28.
THROUGH
TIE &
BRACKET
Once you have the green wire properly routed to the
shortout clip, tighten up the loop of each plastic tie.
You'll find that as they tighten up you're unable to
open them again unless you press down on the small
locking tab as shown in Sketch 13A on page 4.
Tighten them up securely so that the wire is held fast
to the fuel line.
THROUGH TIE ing” 27)
AND BRACKET| 9” y*
When the wire is held securely in position by the
plastic ties, you might leave the ties as is, or trim an
inch or so of the excess off the ends. But, remember
to leave enough length on the tie to make a large loop
and enough to hold onto. At this point you've
completed your bumper assembly. Those owners who
have an electric start tiller may tum to the preparation
of the battery electric start system.
HOW TO INSTALL THE BATTERY AND CABLES FOR YOUR
8HP ELECTRIC START HORSE MODEL
You have a lead-acid type battery, 12 volts with 30
amperes. It is packed in a special box beneath the
engine or the tines. Also, a special package of a few
electrical parts is in a plastic package that is on top
of the literature package in which you found this 8HP
Supplement.
Photo 29 below shows the battery and the components
that you will find in the plastic package on top of
your hood. You'll note that there are two long 9"
hold-down bolts with washers and nuts, the key
switch and hold-down clamp, two keys, the negative
battery cable with cable mounting bolts for both the
negative and positive cable, and one rubber boot
for the top of the negative cable.
The first thing that you'll want to do is take your
battery to a reliable automobile service station, auto-
electric shop, battery store, or truck and farm
equipment service shop. A qualified serviceman there
can have your battery properly activated in avery short
time.
What he should do is fill all six cells of the battery with
fresh battery grade acid (specific gravity of 1.265).
No water or other liquids should be added during the
initial activation of the battery. However, you may
add distilled water or demineralized water to your
battery later to replace water that has "boiled off".
Each cell should be filled until the acid covers the
level just below the filling tube. The sketch of the
battery case indicating what the proper acid level
should be is found on Page 22 of the 4 Speed Owners
Manual. After a serviceman fills your battery with acid
and before you install the battery, make sure you read
the warnings on page 21 of your Owners Manual.
Heed the warnings there. Batteries contain sulfuric
acid and produce explosive gases,
When battery acid has been put into the battery it's
unlikely that you will need a charge to start your
engine. However, the same results of putting a slow
trickle charge into the battery can be achieved by
running the engine. The diode recharges the battery
when the line is properly connected to your solenoid.
It will recharge the battery as the engine runs. But this
we'll go into later after you have completed the
installation of the battery and learned how to operate
the engine and the tiller safely. Should a serviceman
wish to charge your battery because he says the state
of charge is not adequate for a new battery, allow him
to do so, but tell him either to put a small trickle
charge or not allow the charge to exceed 4 to 6
amperes.
pee EE
—_——
==
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS — When working with and
around the battery electric system don't wear jewelry
such as rings, bracelets, and watches. Also be careful
never to allow tools that are being used to fasten
battery connections to the terminals on top of the
battery, or on the solenoid, to touch any metal other
than the terminals you are working with. So, while
working with the battery terminals and connections,
make sure that you keep the tools away from the "T"
bar (that's why we told you take the “T” bar out before
you started to install the battery system) or other
parts of the engine or tiller.
Carefully place the battery in the bracket so that
the Troy-Bilt logo is in back where you can see it from
the operator's position. You will notice on the top of
the battery the terminal on the left is facing toward the
left and the terminal on the right is facing toward the
right. The terminal on the left will also be marked on
the flat lead spot on top of it with a big plus sign.
That means that its the positive terminal of the battery.
The terminal on the other side is the negative terminal
and will provide the ground for the electrical system.
At the bottom of Photo 29, you'll see the key switch and
clamp assembly. The key switch mounting plate is
welded to the battery hold-down clamp. Pick it up and
attach the wiring harness to it as shown in Photo 31.
You'll see at the end of the wiring harness plug there
are places for three prongs. Match up the three prongs
with the holes in the plug. Plug the two connectors
together.
Next, take the two long battery mounting bolts that
were shown in Photo 29 and put them through the top
of the hold-down clamp and key switch assembly, and
down through the lower clamp of the battery bracket
as shown in Photo 32. This photo shows the battery
hold-down bolt on the positive side of the battery.
That bolt takes a flat washer, a lockwasher, and then
a nut. On the other side (the negative side of the
battery) you use a long bolt, a lockwasher, and a nut.
Next, simply tighten the bolts finger tight.
10
ATTACH POSITIVE CABLE
Now, take one of the short bolts and nuts shown In
Photo 29 from the electrical package and use it to
mount the positive cable to the top of the positive
battery terminal as shown in Photo 33. What you do is
take the short bolt and start it into the terminal. Then,
put the battery cable on the bolt, followed by the
nut. Thus, the nut will be on the engine side of the
terminal and the bolt head will be on the operators
side, or furthest away from the engine. Tighten the bolt
and nut up securely with two ‘=" wrenches, but don't
break the bolt. Once the bolt is tight, slip the rubber
boot, that has been on the cable, up over the top of
the terminal covering the nut and bolt and battery
connection completely.
ATTACH NEGATIVE CABLE
Now take the battery cable as shown in the electric
start package of materials in Photo 29 and also the
rubber boot for the cable that was in that photo
and thread the rubber boot onto the middle of the
cable. Pass the cable and rubber boot up between the
long bolt and the battery case as shown in Photo 34.
Using the remaining small bolt and nut that was
in the electric start plastic package, attach the negative
battery cable to the terminal on the right. Put the bolt
through the battery terminal. On the engine side of
terminal add the cable to the bolt and then put on the
nut. Tighten the nut with the two wrenches. As soon as
its snug, slip the rubber boot over the top of the
terminal, bolt and nut, as shown in Photo 35,
SATIVE |
11
12
As shown in Photo 34, when you were connecting the
negative cable on top of the battery, you can see that
the cable goes down between the battery and the long
battery bolt. You can also notice that the negative
cable was left unconnected to the bottom. This was
done purposely so that you would avoid having a spark
while you were connecting the negative cable at the
top of the terminal. The negative cable is the ground
and should be connected to the bottom of the hold-
down bolt as shown in Photo 36. So, you will have to
unloosen the nut and the washer, attach the bottom
end of the cable to the bolt and then reinstall the
washer and nut, and tighten the bolt with two 2"
wrenches as shown in Photo 36.
You should also go back over to the positive cable
and snug-up the bolt on that side, making sure that
both bolts are about equal pressure. Do take care
however, that you don't tighten the hold-down clamp
so tightly that it puts too much pressure on the battery
case. It is possible to tighten them enough to bulge
or split the battery case at the top. Make sure that
you don't do that. Don't leave it loose however, but
leave it tight enough so that the battery stays firmly
and does not vibrate as the tiller moves along in the
garden.
With this step you have completed installing your
electric start system on your 8HP tiller and you may put
the key in the key electric switch.
It's best to put the key with the extended side upwards
and you may have to push in quite a way to make it
go in so it will turn. However, don't turn it to start at
this moment. It wouldn't hurt if you turned it to the
RUN position because the engine won't do anything
when you turn the key to RUN. That is a position the
key goes to after you turn it to START and let go. (It
will automatically go back to RUN.) When you are fin-
ished operating the tiller, you should turn it from
RUN to OFF, and for safety and security's sake, you
should remove the key and put it in a safe place.
Photo 37 shows the electric start system from the left
side showing you the recharging line coming from the
area of the starter motor back to the solenoid and
the wire harness coming down from the key switch
leading to the solenoid and the green wire leading over
to the short-out position on the right. Looking at
Photo 38, you can see the key in the OFF position,
you can see the battery boots securely on top of the
terminals of the battery and you can also see the
green wire leading down to the short-out position.
Turning the key to the OFF position shorts out the en-
gine so that it will no longer run. It's very important that
you keep this in mind when you try to start the tiller.
In order to start the tiller as you will learn later,
you will have to move the key to the RUN position and
also move the throttle lever on the handlebar away
from the shutoff position as well.
In addition to the information you have just read
concerning how to install your battery and hook up the
cables, you can refer to your Horse Owner's Manual
(pages 19-24) to get much general information there
pertaining to the 6HP Electric Start System. The
battery and the key start system and solenoid and
bracket are exactly the same as yours. The only real
difference in your electric start system is that the
recharging line between the solenoid and the engine
has a different type connector to bring the two
sections of the line together and the shutoff line to
keyswitch in your system goes over to the right, where
on the 6HP engine it goes to the left.
All other generalized information about the battery and
the warnings about the use of battery acid, along with
warnings not to smoke, bring flame, or cause electrical
sparks near the battery because it contains explosive
gases also apply to your electric start system.
You also can see on Page 22 the Sketch of the inside
of a battery showing how the plates should be covered
up to the proper level. Beginning on page 191, that
information on testing the electrical system still applies
to your electric start system. However, in the para-
graphs referring to dead battery usage and recharging
(page 194), the two steps that you do not have to
follow are the Step 2 shown in Photo 6/247 in that
manual and checking the fuse in the Recharging
information. You do not have to disconnect a fuse and
you do not have to disconnect your diode from the
system. There is one caution that you must follow
concerning your electric start system.
CAUTION: For electrical safety, always remove the
negative (-) battery cable from the battery before
attempting any repairs or maintenance on or near
the battery or any part of the electrical system. This
will prevent sparks which might cause an explosion
of battery gases, or of carelessly spilled gasoline.
When removing the negative cable, first disconnect
from the grounding point at the bottom of the long
battery bolt and bend cable safely away from the
battery and tiller. Then, disconnect the cables
upper end from the (-) battery post.
When replacing the cable. first connect it to the
negative post on top of the battery, and then to the
bottom of the bolt
CAUTION: If the battery is removed, do not oper-
ate the engine without insulating the positive bat-
tery cable terminal with electrical tape, or using
your rubber battery boots that are provided with the
tiller. Failure to do so can result in sparking from
battery cables.
What the caution above indicates is that you should
always keep the battery cable boots in place cov-
ering up the terminal both at the right side of the
solenoid and at the top of the battery terminal. Nat-
urally, when the battery is removed, you must either
remove the positive cable from both the top of the
battery and from the right side of the solenoid,
shown in Photo 37 in this Supplement, or you must
leave the battery boot on the cable and solenoid
post and then use electrical tape to totally cover
the other end of the positive cable that will remain
free when the battery has been removed. If you were
taping up the end of the positive cable that nor-
mally goes on top of the battery , it would be a
good idea to simply tape that cable to part of the
battery bracket so that it would not be able to move
and vibrate around and possibly loosen its insulating
tape.
13
14
Should you look at Pages 23 and 25 of the Horse
Owner's Manual and Sketch 39 below, you will see
that we have combined the sketches of Sketch 1/43
and 1/48 of the Owner's Manual into one sketch which
has been redrawn to show the 8HP Briggs & Stratton
Engine and the battery key electric start system. You
may note that three wires go to the right solenoid
post. These wires are the battery recharging line, one
starting wire from the key switch and the heavy bat-
tery cable. Then, that battery post is covered with the
heavy rubber boot. IMPORTANT: We urge you not to
start up your electric start engine at this time. After
you've added battery acid and checked the levels of all
the cells and connected the system up properly, be-
fore you test your engine to see if it will start, please
make sure that you've read all the sections in your
Owner's Manual that show you how to operate the
tiller (and this supplement for engine controls) and the
sections on safety.
RECHARGING
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POSITIVE
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Make sure that there is motor oil in the engine and
gear oil in the transmission. CAUTION — You cer-
tainly don't want to start the engine at this point In
time because you don't have the handlebars on, or the
forward/reverse lever in position, and these are a vital
controls for the operation of the tiller. You should
also make sure that you have the wheel speed shift
lever in low gear before you start, when you learn the
starting procedures.
ATTACHING THE FORWARD/REVERSE LEVER
You'll find that it's much easier to attach the Forward/
Reverse Lever when the handlebars are not in place.
This is why we recommend that you do it at this time.
We suggest that you turn to Page 17 of the 4 Speed
Horse Owner's Manual (MNL-24H) to properly attach
the Forward/Reverse Lever and the clutch pawl spring
that hooks to the lever. You can look at the handle-
bar attachment instructions which you've been
through before, but make sure that you understand
handlebar attachment thoroughly as explained in the
Owner's Manual. Take the handlebars and mount
them on the tiller with the “T" bar. Next, you are ready
to attach the throttle cable to the handlebars.
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— ENGINE
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THROTTLE
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PLASTIC HARNESS
KEY SWITCH
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NEGATIVE CABLE
8 HP Key Electric Start System
ATTACH THE THROTTLE CABLE
Take a screwdriver and unscrew the two screws that
are on the top of the right handlebar. Now, take the
throttle lever end of the throttle cable which you have
been moving around since you installed the bumper
and electric start system (if you have an electric
start) and lay the throttle cable generally along the
lines of the handlebar up to the top. Take one screw
and put it through the base of the handlebar lever and
screw it into the top of the handlebar as shown in
Photo 40. To put the second screw in, you may wish to
move the lever out of the way a little bit to give you
more room to add the second screw.
The casing for the throttle cable is held in place by
two little spring clips which accompanied your tiller.
As shown in Photo 41, first, the small end of the cable
clip goes over the cable and the large end is then
snapped around the handlebar. The first clip should
be installed somewhere above the bend at the top of
the handlebar and the second clip should be installed
down near the handlebar height adjustment stud
(that's the lever with the black knob on it down at the
handlebar base.)
ENGINE CONTROLS AND OPERATION
CAUTION — Please make sure that you understand
how the throttle lever on you 8 HP Engine works.
Whenever you push the handlebar lever forward all
the way with your thumb, you're going toward high
speed. Completely forward is maximum speed, as
shown in Photo 42.
When you use your thumb to push the throttle lever
on the handlebar to the left, as shown in Photo 43,
you move the lever over to the engine shutoff position.
All the way to the left will stop engine operation
Anywhere in between engine shutoff and high speed
is the full range of engine operations (from slow speed
to high speed).
|SHUTOFF ENGINE) A
E:
If you have an electric start engine, you will actually
have two separate ways to shut the engine off. The
first is, as we have just shown you, to move the throt-
tle lever all the way to the left to the shutoff position.
That shorts out the engine and stops it.
If you have an electric start engine and you take the
key and move it from the RUN position to the OFF
position, that will stop the engine in the same manner.
Accordingly, in order to start the engine, neither the
throttle lever nor key can be in the off position. There-
fore, you will have to keep this in mind when start-
ing the engine — that the throttle lever must not be
in the OFF position and the key must be at least in
the RUN position to start the engine, even with the
recoil starter.
15
e
| SHUTOFF SWITCH]
| 7
The casing containing the throttle wire comes down
the handlebar and crosses over to the engine and
then fastens to the governor control bracket by a
clamp which holds the casing in position. When you
push the throttle lever on the handlebar all the way
forward to high speed position, the wire moves the
speed control lever forward. As shown in Photo 44,
when it hits the tab that's as far as it will go and that's
the highest speed that can be achieved. If the lever
doesnt quite reach the end or achieve high speed,
you have to loosen the clamp and push some of the
cable toward the front of the engine and readjust it.
When the throttle lever on the handlebar is moved
all the way over to the left, the lever down on the
speed control bracket will move all the way back to-
ward the operator. As it does, a tab behind the bracket
comes over and touches a grounding point which is
attached to the short out wires and it stops the en-
gine. In Photo 45, the screwdriver points to the lever
that has come back to the shutoff position where it
grounds out the ignition and stops the engine.
CAUTION: The tab behind the bracket should
always make good contact with the shutoff switch
when you move the throttle lever on the handlebar
to the "Off" position. If it doesn't, then readjust the
throttle cable as explained below.
Whenever the throttle cable doesn't move all the way
forward to high speed position as shown in Photo
46, or doesn't come all the way back and touch the
shutoff position, you merely take a screwdriver and
loosen the clamp and adjust the cable and wire for-
ward or backwards to make the proper adjustment. In
the case shown here, you would move the cable for-
ward so that the speed control lever would go ahead
another fraction of an inch and touch the tab. This
would be the maximum speed that the throttle could
attain.
OPERATION OF THE CHOKE
Wa
When the engine is cold and you wish to start it,
you should push the choke down fully as shown in
Photo 47. This action decreases the amount of air
that is able to enter the carburetor and therefore
enriches the fuel mixture going into the engine
combustion chamber.
Once the engine has started, you can move the
choke back up to a midway position and allow the
engine to warm up a bit.
The partial choke position is shown in Photo 48,
however, you could still have partial choke with
the choke adjusted a little higher or possibly a little
lower than shown in the photo.
Once the engine has warmed sufficiently, push the
choke all the way up to the CHOKE OFF position
shown in Photo 49. Make sure that you do not
operate the tiller in the garden while the choke is
on. To do so, could cause unburned carbons to
quickly accumulate in the combustion chamber
and damage an engine rather quickly. Please note
that a warm engine requires less choking than a cold
engine, and sometimes an engine that is good and
warm will require no choking at all to start it.
17
18
MOTOR OIL FOR YOUR ENGINE
Your engine requires motor oil of the proper service
classification and viscosity (weight) in order to
function properly. Two quarts of #30 motor oil with
a service classification of SF has been supplied in
the oil package with your tiller. However, we would
suggest that you read Pages 44 and 45 of the
Owner's Manual (MNL-24H) so that you can better
understand the basic information about the
functions of motor oil. Your engine requires cooling
and lubrication for long engine life and the use of
the proper motor oil along with other techniques of
keeping your engine clean all contribute to longer
engine life.
To protect your investment in your Troy-Bilt Tiller,
we suggest that you always use a good quality.
clean motor oil that is classified SF (SE is an _
acceptable substitute if SF is not available). The first
recommendation for tilling — at temperatures of
40° F. and over — is to use #30 weight oil that is
classified SF. If you find that #30 weight oil is
unavailable in your area, you could use #10W-30 as
a substitute for the #30 weight oil.
Other temperatures ranges and oil viscosities are
shown on Page 2 of the Briggs & Stratton Engine
Pamphlet which you received with your tiller. Please
refer to that table for your guide in selecting
viscosities, but always remember that SF or SE
classified oil would best protect your investment
and probably won't cost anymore than a SD
classified oil. Further remember that an SF or SE
classified oil has all of the detergents and other
components in the oil to do its job of keeping your
engine clean while resisting rust and foam. As the
Briggs & Stratton Engine Pamphlet points out, do
not add any kind of additives to the oil that you put
in your engine.
When you've added the motor oil to your engine up
to the point of overflowing, remember to keep track
of the hours of operation of your engine. And, after
the first five hours, drain the engine oil while it's
warm and replace it with clean, fresh oil. Further
back in this supplement, you will find directions on
how to drain and replace the oil.
GASOLINE AND FUEL TANK
Use clean, fresh, “regular” grade, leaded or low-lead
gasoline in your engine. DO NOT MIX OIL WITH
GASOLINE. NOTE: Do not use unleaded gasoline.
Avoid using gasoline that is not fresh, as stale fuel
can cause gum deposits to form in the carburetor
and fuel lines. One way of avoiding stale fuel Is to
buy only a gallon or two of gascline at a time and
continually replace the fuel in the tank with clean,
fresh gasoline. This practice also insures a fuel with
volatility tailored for the season (gasoline suppliers
seasonally change the volatility “blend”).
Your engine is equipped with a 1'% gallon fuel tank.
The tank is side-mounted in such a way that you
will achieve a full flow of fuel at just about all angles
of tilling. In addition, you have a fuel filter installed
in the fuel line between the tank and the carburetor.
GASOLINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Never refuel an engine while it is hot. Allow the
engine and the muffler to cool down before refueling.
Refueling a hot engine could cause an explosion of
gasoline if it's spilled onto hot parts. Also, never
smoke or bring lighted cigarettes, cigars, pipes or any
other flame or spark near the fuel tank. If you do
spill some gasoline anywhere on the engine, wipe
up the fuel spill before you attempt to start up the
engine. Further, always fill and start your engine out
of doors if at all possible and if you do spill fuel,
move the tiller and engine away from the fuel spill
before you attempt to start it.
FUEL VALVE
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Your fuel tank also has a fuel valve underneath the
tank just at the start of the fuel line, shown in Photo
50. Before you try to start your tiller, be sure to open the
fuel valve turning it counterclockwise. You don't have
to turn it a whole lot to get it fully open. It wouldn't
hurt to open and close it a couple of times so that you
get used to it and learn when the fuel valve is open
and when it is closed.
| alll SPECIFICATION NO. NG
| MODEL NO. |
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ENGINE MODEL AND SPECIFICATION NUMBERS
Your engine model and specification numbers can be
found on top of the blower housing between the
chrome air cleaner and the chrome fuel cap. As shown
in Photo 51, your model number is 195437 for the
electric start engine (which happens to be shown in
this photo), or 195432 for the recoil start engine. The
next four digits are the specification number which is
0150 for the electric start, or 0149 for the recoil start
engine. It would be worth your while to record these
numbers somewhere else in the front or back of
your manual, so you know where they are and could
refer to them anytime that you might require engine
service from your authorized Briggs & Stratton
Service Dealer .
TILLER AND ENGINE CONTROLS AND OPERATION
For operation and control of the tiller and engine, it
would be best to refer you to the Owner's Manual,
pages 31-43 and 61-64. (Please use this booklet for
instructions on engine controls). How to operate the
tiller, turning around and general familiarization with
the tiller should be followed from those pages.
However, when it comes to starting and stopping the
engine, we will give these procedures below. Of
course, prior to operating the tiller, you should read
the sections on Tiller Controls in the Owner's Manual
(pages 31-43). Before you operate the tiller you should
study the photos indicating what the tiller controls are,
what their functions are and how to operate them.
Also, before you ever operate the tiller or allow anyone
else to, you should instruct them in the Safety
Precautions on pages 25-28.
Look at them, read them more than once and commit
them to memory because you'll have a happier and
safer use of the tiller knowing that you and others
you allow to operate the tiller are thoroughly familiar
with what you can do and what you cannot do with the
tiller.
After you have read the safety rules, learned that the
Forward/Reverse Lever on your tiller will always stop
or start tiller motion and that the wheel speed shift
lever must be engaged in either low or high speed
in order to make the tiller go or even operate the
tiller safely, then you are ready to practice with the
controls and operate the tiller for the first time. How
to do so and operate your engine is described below.
STARTING THE 8HP ENGINE
First make sure that the tiller whee! speed shift lever
is in slow speed and the Forward/Reverse Lever is in
Neutral. You should also make sure that the belt
on your tiller is in the low belt/pulley range, if this is
your first time operating the tiller. Be sure to reconnect
the spark plug wire you removed earler to install your
bumper.
1. Move the throttle lever on the handlebar a short
distance to the right away from the shutoff position.
With a cold engine move the manual choke all the
way down to the FULL CHOKE position.
2. Gently pull the starter rope out beyond the wrap-
around bar of the bumper (see Photo 52). As you're
ready to pull the recoil start rope, you may rest your
other hand on the bumper, but make sure that it's away
from the muffler and is NOT resting anywhere on top
of the air cleaner. Now, give the rope a good firm
pull outward and it should start. Allow the rope to
go back slowly into the recoil start mechanism.
3. When the engine has started, move the choke
back to a partial choke position where you can allow
It to warm up for a few minutes. When the engine
IS warm, you can move the choke all the way up to the
OFF position. Now you're ready to move to the opera-
tor position and operate the tiller.
19
20
STOPPING THE ENGINE
Whenever you want to stop the tiller from moving,
remember, you can easily and quickly do so by
moving the Forward/Reverse Lever into the
NEUTRAL position. If you're going forward, you
simply tap the lever up until the clutch roller goes
into the indentation area of the yellow-colored belt
adjustment block (thats moving the roller upward to
the indentation, but not far enough upward to go
into reverse). Tapping the Forward/Reverse Lever
upward with the palm of your hand will do this most
easily.
To stop the engine, simply pull the throttle lever
on the handlebar all the way back and to your left,
and the engine should stop.
Should your engine notstop when you move the shut-
off lever all the way to the left (and you don't have
an electric start engine, which has an OFF position
on the key), you could, while the tiller is not in mo-
tion, move around to the side of the tiller and push the
choke to the FULL CHOKE position. This will choke
off the air supply and stop the engine, however, it
is a bad practice to do this very often as it will provide
too rich a mixture to the engine and should be avoided.
The answer is to make sure that your throttle cable
is properly adjusted (see Page 16), so that it will
shut the engine off when you move the throttle all
the way to the left.
FOR TILLER MAINTENANCE
INSTRUCTIONS
(See Horse Model Owner's Manual Sections 5 & 6 for
Maintenance and Parts Replacement, and Section 7 for
Troubleshooting).
Some of the information on general maintenance tips
and fuel care certainly apply to your engine as well
as the other engines on Troy-Bilt Tillers. As was
mentioned earlier in this Supplement, Electric Start
Information on Pages 19-24 and 191-194 of the Horse
Model Owner's Manual is useful for the electrical
check-out, except for the last photo (Photo 6/247)
where it shows you to disconnect the diode line. You
don't have to do that on your 8HP electric start
system.
Further information about ignition and electric start of
the engine and the care and maintenance of the
electric start system for the 6HP Engine is found on
Pages 112 and 113.
When you have taken the proper steps to start your
engine, as seen in Photo 52, pull the reco! starter
rope out slowly until your hand is past the tubular
structure of the bumper and then give the recoil rope
a good pull outward to start. Avoid catching your
fingers or nails on the air cleaner cover, or the bumper.
SPECIAL ENGINE MAINTENANCE
INFORMATION FOR THE 8HP
BRIGGS & STRATTON ENGINE
The surest way to long engine life is to keep dirt out
of the engine and keep the engine well lubricated
with clean motor oil that is classified as SF or SE.
Regular Maintenance ls The Answer.
SERVICING THE AIR CLEANER
1. Check the polyurethane ring around the air clean-
er cartridge for cleanliness at the start of each op-
erating day. Check more frequently if tilling under
very dusty conditions. Make sure that the entire air
cleaner assembly is snug and tightly mounted.
2. Clean the precleaner polyurethane ring of your
air cleaner every ten hours of engine operation or once
a month, whichever comes sooner. This recommen-
dation is less than 1/2 the time that the engine manu-
facturer requests. But, remember that your tiller is
nearly always operating in the soil and will often
raise much dust and dirt — especially if the soil is dry.
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How To Clean The Foam Ring Of The Engine Air Cleaner
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Wash the foam ring in a detergent and water solution
as shown in Photo 56. Then, clean the foam ring
in clear water and ring it out.
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Then, remove the shiny chrome plated cover as shown Ring the water out of the foam sponge thoroughly
in Photo 54. as shown in Photo 57.
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When the polyurethane foam ring is dirty, pull it off After a thorough ringing, squeeze all the moisture
the cartridge with two hands, working your hands out of the ring and wipe with a clean cloth or paper
around the cartridge to work it off the top as shown towel, as shown in Photo 58.
in Photo 55.
21
As shown in Photo 59, use any clean motor oil to
re-oil the foam ring.
Then, squeeze all of the excess oil out of the ring
as shown in Photo 60, and wipe off the excess oil
with a clean paper or cloth towel.
22
As shown in Photo 61, replace the foam ring around
the air cleaner cartridge pulling it all the way down
evenly. Make sure that the bottom of the ring touches
the bottom base of the air cleaner and that the top
of the ring touches the top.
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Make sure there are no gaps on the ring beneath the
rubber gasket showing the cartridge on the top or the
bottom as shown in Photo 62. Then, replace the air
cleaner cover and wing nut. Tighten the wing nut
firmly but not excessively tight.
It's a good idea to remove and clean the foam first
stage ring each time you change the engine oil. In that
way, you're starting off with clean oil and a clean air
cleaner.
Cleaning The Air Cleaner Cartridge
Clean the paper fiber (automotive type) inner car-
tridge of your air cleaner every year or every 100 hours
— whichever comes first, Inspect the cartridge more
often than that time and if necessary, clean it when-
ever it becomes dirty.
Refer to Photos 54 & 55 to remove the chrome air
cleaner cover and the polyurethane ring. Next, as
shown in Phote 63, remove the wing nut on top of the
cartridge.
Remove the wing nut and the cup and lift the cartridge
off of the base as shown in Photo 64.
a
1] DONT ALLOW DIRT
TO GO DOWN HOLE
WHILE CLEANING BASE
As you remove the cartridge from the base, be very
careful not to allow any dirt from the cartridge to
fall down the hole in the air horn. This hole leads di-
rectly into your carburetor and any dirt falling down
there would go directly into your engine, causing wear
quickly. So, be sure to clean up the hole with a clean
cloth around the rim of the hole and the base of the air
cleaner and be sure that no dirt is allowed to remain
there.
If the cartridge is only a little dusty, you can tap it
gently on a flat, vertical surface (such as a clean
wall) and perhaps remove most of the dust.
CAUTION: Don't use pressurized air or petroleum
solvents to clean the air cleaner cartridge (which
may cause deterioration of the cartridge). ALSO,
DO NOT OIL the cartridge.
If the paper cartridge becomes very dirty, either
replace it, or clean it in a low or non-sudsing
detergent and warm water solution.
After a low suds wash, you must rinse the cartridge
with water flowing from the inside of the cartridge
through the cartridge to the outside as shown in
Photo 65. After washing, the cartridge must be al-
lowed to air dry thoroughly before using. It will often
take a day or so to dry out thoroughly, so you have
to plan ahead when you are going to wash your car-
tridge or keep a spare cartridge on hand and replace
the cartridge when it is dirty. When your washed
cartridge is dry you may replace it on the air cleaner
base and remember, do not oil it, or get dirt down the
hole when you install it.
Install the cartridge and securely hold it in place with
the wing nut. Put on the polyurethane foam pre-clean-
ing ring. Add the chrome-plated air cleaner cover
and the wing nut on top of that. Make sure that the
entire air cleaner assembly is snug and tight.
23
ADDING OR CHANGING ENGINE OIL
Please remember to change your engine oil after
the first five hours of operation. Thereafter, we rec-
ommend that you change your engine oil every 10
hours of engine operation, since your engine is op-
erating In the garden constantly in a sometimes dusty
and dirty environment.
Also, remember to check your engine oil level each
day when you're starting out with your tiller. Simply
remove the engine oil fill plug and make sure that
the engine oil is always very close to the top of the oil
filler plug. Don't be satisfied with a quick look. Make
sure the oil is up to no less than two or three threads
from the top of the hole. Use the oil fill hole on the
right side of the engine.
Its much easier to always keep the oil up to the point
of overflowing in your engine crankcase. Prop up tines
to level engine base.
Now, when you're ready to change the engine oil take
a 2x4 or similar support and tilt your tiller to one
side using the bumper as a means of raising it. Lower
one wheel on top of the 2x4 to tilt the engine in the
direction of the oil drain plug. Take an adjustable
wrench and remove the oil drain plug as shown in
Photo 66. Also loosen the oil fill plug to allow air into
the crank case.
You will note that the wheel is propped up on the —
other side of the tiller so that the oil will drain
out better. It is also the best procedure to drain your
oil after the engine has been run awhile to get the en-
gine oil hot. The most dirt and sludge will come out
along with warm engine oil. Of course, put a large
pan underneath it to catch the draining engine oil.
After the engine oil has been drained and the plug
has been securely put back in place, take a
screwdriver and wedge it between the tabs on the
oil fill plug and turn the plug counterclockwise to
loosen it if it hasn't already been done during the oil
draining procedure. (See Photo 67). Take the 2"
white plastic funnel that came with your motor oil
and pour in motor oil of a service classification SF
or SE as shown in Photo 68. Your engine crankcase
will take about 44 ounces of oil, however, some oil
may still be clinging to the sides of the crankcase
and it may take a little less.
Make sure the engine base is level when you add
the oil. You must take the prop out from under the
wheel on the left side of the tiller if you still have it
there. Also, put a prop of about 1'"-inch board or
something else underneath the drag bar in the back =
of the tiller to level out the engine base. Then, fill
the engine crankcase with #30 weight motor for
summer tilling (40°F., or above) and add the oil to
the point of overflowing.
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
Minor carburetor adjustments may be required to
compensate for differences in fuel, temperature,
altitude, or load. If you refer to Pages 186-187 of your
Horse Model Owner's Manual, you'll get a great deal of
general information that applies to your carburetor and
procedures, however, we will go over them here. But,
some of the background information on those pages
will certainly be helpful to you too.
Photo 69 shows a screwdriver on the power adjust-
ment screw. If your engine seems to be running ade-
quately, until you put the tines in the ground, and
it seems to slow down and lack the power that you
need, it might be that you need to open up the power
adjustment screw by 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn.
Looking at the adjustment needle in the photo, when
the screwdriver turns the needle to the left, it will
richen the mixture, allowing more fuel to flow. If the
needle is turned to the right, it leans out the mixture
allowing less fuel and more air (proportionately) in the
fuel air mixture.
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IDLE STOP SCREW
IDLE VALVE SCREW
If you're not sure where the power adjustment needle
valve should be set and your tiller is running rea-
sonably well, you can set the engine throttle lever at
a fast position and then open up the power adjust-
ment screw slowly to reach the point of a rich mixture.
When the mixture is too rich, the engine will begin
to cough and sputter. Stop opening up the needle at
that point.
Now, count the turns as you turn the needle valve
back inward where the engine has too lean a mixture
and it will again begin to cough and sputter. What
you should do is turn the needle back to a point half-
way between the two points that you have located.
Then, you can try your tiller in the garden once more.
If it could use a bit more power after you put the tines
in the ground, you could then open up the needle
valve about 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.
Photo 70 shows an adjustment being made on the
idle speed adjustment screw. This screw is really a
mechanical stop where if you turn the screw in
further, the engine will idle a little faster because the
screw will not allow the throttle to go all the way
down. (Instead, it will stop and hit the plate below a
little sooner.)
If your engine is idling too fast, you turn that screw
a little bit counterclockwise and it will slow down
the idle.
In Photo 71, the idle valve screw is being worked
on. As you see, reach around with your hand and
hold the throttle against the idle stop while you
make this adjustment. The engine should be
running at a relatively slow pace (from 1600 to 1750
RPM idle) while you make this adjustment.
While you're holding the throttle against the idle stop,
turn the idle valve inward to lean and out to rich.
Set it at the midpoint between rich and lean. Then,
release the throttle by letting go of the idle stop screw
and recheck the idle RPM.
If you open the throttle lever on the handlebar and
the engine will not accelerate properly — that is it
doesn't have a fast recovery — you will likely have to
open up the idle valve screw to a little richer mixture. 9%
Removing The Inline Fuel Filter From The Fuel Line.
(Note: the fuel filter will be found on the right or left side)
You normally will not have to remove the engine fuel
line filter for perhaps several years. However, if for
some reason you do have to remove it, the following
sequence of photos will help you in the task.
A clean, new fuel line filter may be installed in either
direction. However, if for any reason a used fuel fil-
ter is going to be put back on the engine, the dirty
side of the fuel filter must be put on the fuel tank side.
This would be facing the same direction it was ori-
ginally mounted. If you put a dirty filter on backwards
with the dirty side closest to the carburetor, all of the
dirt would flow into your carburetor and cause the
problems the filter is intended to avoid.
CAUTION: Before removing fuel filter, the ENGINE
MUST BE COLD TO AVOID A FIRE OR EXPLOSION.
Turn the fuel valve under the fuel tank clockwise
(inward) to shut off the fuel (Photo 72).
Take a pair of pliers and squeeze the prongs on the
clip next to the fuel filter and move the clamp assembly
off the fuel filter and over towards the muffler as
shown in Photo 73. Do the same thing with the clamp
behind the fuel filter shown in Photo 74. Squeeze the
clamp prongs together and move the clamp to the left.
Then, you simply pull the fuel filter off the fuel line
as shown in Photo 75. If you install a clean, new fuel
filter it can go on facing either direction. If you re-
install the old filter, install it ONLY FACING THE SAME
DIRECTION IT WAS FACING BEFORE REMOVAL —
dirty side to left towards fuel tank. Then, put the hoses
and clamps back over close to the fuel filter on both
sides of the filter.
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How To Disconnect The Diode From The Recharging Line.
The diode recharging line and the red recharging line
coming from the solenoid are joined together as
shown in Photo 76. Normally, you don’t have to dis-
connect the diode from the line except in such an
instance if you wish to remove the engine from the
tiller, or in the very unlikely case that you would have
to replace the diode.
To disconnect the diode you'll have to get both thumb-
nails in by the diode in the area shown as little tabs in
the Photo.
You must manage to separate these little tabs that
clamp themselves around the ridge on the recharging
line and use another finger to pull the recharging line
away from the diode. It takes some dexterity but
once you learn how to do it, it's really not that diffi-
cult. You just have to get your thumbs in there and get
a finger in the position where you will be able to put
tension on the line and pull it away from the starter
motor.
When the diode is disconnected from the recharging
line going to the solenoid, it looks like that shown in
Photo 77. To rejoin them, you merely snap the two
together.
power starts each day.
A word about the diode — the diode is a little solid
state device that allows current coming from the en-
gine to pass as direct current going to your battery
at a very low amperage. What this means is that when-
ever your engine is running and this diode is prop-
erly hooked up, your engine is recharging your bat-
tery as you till. Make sure that this line is connec-
ted all the time to insure a charged battery for full
27
A FINAL WORD...
Owners of an electric start 8HP Professional Model
should remember after each tilling season to check
all of their wires on the harness for loose terminals. Be-
fore making the check, remove the battery, and clean
the battery posts. Look over all wires for signs of
cuts or bare wires. Insulate cuts in the wire's insula-
tion with electrical tape as long as the wire is not dam-
aged. Replace cut or bad wires.
DONT LEAN ON
AIR CLEANER
Don't put any weight on, or lean on air cleaner. To do
so, might damage or loosen it enough to allow dirt
to get into your engine.
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8HP BRIGGS & STRATTON ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Displacement. 19.44 cu. in. (318.5 cc).
CHOKE — Manually operated at engine.
plated fuel cap.
gasoline. Do Not Mix Oil With Gasoline.
TEMPERATURE RANGE
40°F to 100°F
0°F to 60°F
-20°F to 20°F
GENERAL DESCRIPTION — Four-cycle, single cylinder, air cooled, Industrial/Commercial Engine. Advanced
design features high silicon-copper aluminum alloy cylinder block, with permanent cast iron sleeve cylinder wall
integral to cylinder block (cylinder can be rebored several times to extend engine life, if ever necessary). 19.4
Cubic Inch Displacement. Recoil start (with Easy Spin compression release) is standard; 12-volt battery electric key
start, with automatic recharging during tiller operation, is optional.
MODELS — Recoil Start: Model #195432, Specification #0149. Electric Start: Model #195437, Specification #0150.
HORSEPOWER — Rated at 8HP at 3600 RPM (engine revolutions per minute). Bore: 3". Stroke: 2%”.
CRANKSHAFT — Heat treated ductile iron, with induction hardened crankpin and main journals. Horizontal shaft
rotates counterclockwise (viewed from PTO, or operator's end of shaft).
MAIN BEARINGS — Ball bearings are used at both ends of crankshaft.
LONG LIFE MATERIALS — Resistant to heat and wear. Exhaust System: Stellite® exhaust valve and seat (high
heat resistance and resistance to wear and distortion). Also, an exhaust valve rotator which turns the valve to
prevent hot spots from developing. Austenitic steel intake valve. Piston Rings: two compression and one oil ring.
GOVERNOR — Fully enclosed mechanical (flyweights) type, with external adjustment for authorized repairmen.
AIR CLEANER — Advanced two-stage air cleaner has automotive type paper fiber element covered by
polyurethane sponge pre-cleaner element. Cover is chrome plated.
FUEL SYSTEM — Side-mounted fuel tank permits a full flow of fuel at just about all angles of tilling. Holds 1%
gallons (6 quarts), Flo Jet updraft carburetor. Separate in-line fuel filter can be cleaned and replaced. Chrome
FUEL — Use "regular" grade, leaded or low-lead automotive gasoline — see Page 18. Do not use unleaded
ENGINE SPEED AND SHUTOFF — Controlled from operator position at handlebar. Push throttle lever all the way
forward for high speed; push lever backwards (to left) for engine shutoff — see Page 15. With electric start model,
operator also can stop engine by turning key to OFF position.
ENGINE WEIGHTS — Recoil Start: 47.5 Ibs. Electric Start: 55 Ibs.
SETTINGS — Spark plug gap: .030"; Breaker Point Setting: .020"; Armature Air Gap: .010" to .014"; Valve
Clearance: Intake .005" to .009" (cold), Exhaust .007" to .011" (cold). Head Bolt Torque: 165 in, Ibs. (13.75 ft. lbs.).
MOTOR OIL — Capacity: 2% pints (1 quart plus 12 ounces). Add oil to overflowing point, Do Not Mix Gasoline
With Oil. Use good quality, SF or SE classified motor oil (see chart below):
"For tilling in warm temperatures, straight 430 viscosity is recommended.
SAE VISCOSITY GRADES
#30", #10W-40, #10W-30
#10W-30, #10W-40
#5W-20, #5W-30
INDEX
Pages
Air cleaner CAUTION LL. 22200000 n ere ea ea een NR RIA 28
Checking transmission gear oil level .................... 3
Adding metor vil to engine: =.....——.---- e. KRIEG ‚ 3, 24
Attach forward/reverse lever............e——«e.ee—.ereeo. 14
Attach Nantlebare< = 1... ana ai A at ea a ANS aR si
Attach throttle Liens, 15
Carburetor adjustments: гие залито WN solide A 25
Changing motor Oil... 1.112200 ete eines an ‚ 24
Onoke- EDbEralon == Ra TE 17
Cleaning inner air cleaner cartridge..............e....e.”. 23
Diode information ...........—.——e—e—.—e.-emressrecorece.. ‚ 27
Disconnect spark plug wire ...............6..00.0 0. 4
Electric start diagram .......... ....0000000a0re0 0 AD 14
Engine:oil Capaciy == EEN AAA 3 & 24
Pages
First few hours of operation ............. inside front cover
FUE Ne TERRA ERA E ame TA 18
FUE VANE == da RA As 18
Gasoline .......e—.—ee.remoerrorrerorererrar ear 18
Installing the battery & cables ................e...... ‚9-14
Installing bumper ...... initia ears 4-9
FEV SWILOA- dd строи сене Руан Баса ha 10, 13
Level vour engine base, Photo 7 +=. DECKE EEE 3
Motor oil (for engine) ,......._— 000004 nana es aan . 18
Motor Dll Til naele (prOta:B)=-=- ===" BT 3
Plastic tie for wires .........000020000 000084 eee na a eu 00 . 4,8
replacing fuel line Ner....=:7 507 sa sides sve . 26
Servicina al .CcI2anef ..-. <= ces a ee 21-23
Throttle control ......2222220 000 a ee era a na a ee a ana 00 15
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