Euroheat Stanford 80 Lighting, Operating And Maintenance Instructions

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Euroheat Stanford 80 Lighting, Operating And Maintenance Instructions | Manualzz

Lighting, Operating and

Maintenance Instructions

Stanford 80

Wood Stove

39962006

Euroheat Distributors

(H.B.S.) Ltd.

,

Unit 2, Court Farm

Business Park,

Bishops Frome,

Worcestershire,

WR6 5AY.

Tel: 01885 491100

Fax: 01885 491101 email: [email protected]

©

EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006

Part No.

Serial Number

1 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

IMPORTANT

The installation of this appliance must comply with all local regulations, including those referring to national and European Standards before it can be operated. The stove is not suitable for a shared flue.

Improper adjustment, alteration, maintenance or the fitting of replacement parts not recommended by the manufacturer can cause injury or property damage.

Ensure all manuals remain with the appliance and are passed to the user after installation

for future reference. Refer to the manuals for assistance or consult a qualified engineer.

 Do not store or use petrol or other flammable vapours and liquids in the vicinity of this or any other heating appliance. Do not burn anything but natural wood on this appliance.

 Due to high operating temperatures of this appliance it should be located away from

pedestrian traffic and away from furniture and draperies. Do not store paper or wood near the appliance. Any mats and rugs put in front of the stove should be fire proof and secured to prevent the possibility of tripping.

Advise all persons as to the stove’s high surface temperatures. If it is possible for children or infirm adults to come into contact with the stove, fit a suitable fire guard. Never let children “help” with the stove in any way, even when the stove is cold.

It is imperative that all air passageways into, out of, and within the appliance are kept clean. All permenant ventilation into the room in which the stove is installed must remain clear and unobstructed at all times.

 If a flue blockage or adverse weather conditions cause the stove to emit smoke, do not treat it as merely a nuisance, this smoke will indicate that carbon monoxide is being emitted into the room. T urn the stove to its minimum firing rate, open windows and allow the stove’s fuel to burn out before closing the windows. Do not re-light the stove without consulting a qualified engineer.

In the event of a chimney fire the stove should be turned to its minimum setting and the fire brigade informed. Do not re-light the stove until the complete installation has been inspected by a qualified engineer.

The appliance should be inspected regularly and the chimney cleaned at least annually.

More frequent cleaning may be required and the advice of a qualified chimney sweep should be sought.

Before Operating this Appliance

The first few fires in the stove should be developed slowly and only reaching a moderate size after two hours, to allow the seals to harden and excess sealant to be extruded. The paint will also cure during this time. After curing, the paint used on the stove will harden and be capable of withstanding

650°C, but as it begins curing with the stove’s rise in temperature the paint will emit a blue, pungent smelling, haze. These fumes may activate a smoke detector, if fitted. During this period the room should not be occupied by people or pets and windows must be left open to ventilate the room. The time taken for the paint to be fully cured will be dependant upon the temperature but it should be expected to take approximately 6 hours. If you re-paint or fit new parts to your stove, another period of curing will be necessary but the curing time will be much shorter.

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 2 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Lighting The Stove.

Open the direct drawing damper , the air wash vent and under grate air slide . Place some crumpled paper onto the grate, and on this place small pieces of kindling wood. (Firelighters are not recommended for wood fires as they are designed to give a small, long burning flame for coal lighting). Light the paper and close the stove door. The open direct drawing damper will allow the maximum air to be drawn through the stove to compensate for the flue being cold. The air entering the stove through the air wash vent

will keep smoke away from the glass and supply sufficient air for the paper to burn, whilst the under grate air will to cause the paper to burn more intensely. When the wood kindling is burning well, open the side or front door to load larger pieces of wood onto the fire. Close the direct draught damper and under grate air slide

when the fire is well established, and control the burning rate of the fire with the air wash vent setting. Extreme caution must be exercised to ensure nothing falls from the stove whenever the the doors are opened. The stove must never be left unattended with any of its doors open.

The Controls

Air Wash

Air supplied to a wood fire through the air wash directs air to the volatile gasses released from the wood with any "spare" un-burned air reaching the wood to generate more heat within the wood, to release more gasses. Because this minimises the risk of unburned gasses and their potential heat from escaping, only the air wash supply should be used when burning an established wood fire. The air wash supply also serves to act as a barier between the glass and the tar laden volatile gasses.

Under Grate Air

Open

The under grate air slide allows air to be fed directly to the core of the fire to promote rapid growth in fire size, but should only be used when lighting a fire or reviving a fire that has reduced to insignificance. Using it when the fire is established and burning brightly will cause the wood to generate more gasses than the air wash can supply sufficient air for its combustion, causing wasted heat and the unburned gasses to deposit soot and tars within the stove and flueways .

Direct drawing damper

Direct Draught Damper

The direct draught damper allows the products of combustion to enter the flue without having to pass through the stove’s baffle system. This promotes rapid heating of the flue to establish good flue draught rapidly when the fire is first lit, but opening it when the fire is established will limit the heat being transferred to the stove and the resultant very hot gasses leaving the stove may cause damage to the flue system.

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 3 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Fuelling the Stove.

Always open the loading doors allowing a few seconds between breaking the seal and opening fully to allow the air flow to stabilize. Loading the stove through the side door, and having the air wash vent closed whilst refuelling will minimize any fumes escaping from the stove. It is important to check that no embers fall from the stove when opening the doors and that no embers have fallen after closing the doors.

Try to introduce fresh wood before the flames from a previous loading have extinguished. If the fire has become very low it is advisable to rake the embers and to induce the fire bed to glow brightly by opening the air wash fully for a few minutes. If the stove has become cold it may be necessary to open the under grate air and introduce some kindling wood into the stove. Always rake a portion of the embers towards the front of the stove and place the wood towards the back of the stove as this will minimize the possibility of smoke reaching the glass and of the wood itself falling against the glass. Loading wood to form an open, random, layout will help air to reach all parts of the wood; loading wood uniformly and densely will restrict air flow and cause the fire to produce smoke.

Correctly fuelled and aerated your stove is capable of clean, high efficiency burning, but like all stoves if it is miss managed it will be inefficient, choke with tar and soot whilst polluting the neighbourhood with smoke. Maintaining a clean efficient fire begins with burning only the driest wood you can possibly obtain. All wood will contain some moisture but because the wood will not reach its ignition temperature until this moisture has been evaporated, the heat needed from wood already burning to boil away this water is heat lost to the stove. The amount of heat lost can be calculated because it is proportional to the amount of water in the wood.

Unfortunately not only is heat lost boiling away the water, the resultant water vapour swirling throughout the stove’s combustion chamber tends to restrict and cool the air supply mixing with the burning gasses, causing them to extinguish prematurely, resulting in further wasted heat as well as allowing the unburned gasses to deposit soot and tar in the flue.

Burning Rate.

All adjustments to the air supply should me made gradually and the burning rate is matched to the available fuel. Dramatically reducing the air supply with one adjustment will certainly cause the fire size to rapidly diminish but it will not immediately cause the wood to stop emitting gasses. If the stove is very hot, unburned gasses will not deposit their tars in the stove but they will be deposited in the flue.

Putting on a firebox full of wood and turning the stove to a low air setting will cause similar problems because the wood will heat with insufficient air to burn and the tars will evaporate from the wood to be deposited on the stove interior. If a long, unattended, running time is required, run the stove at a moderate burning rate and add wood as the initial flames from a previous loading begin to die down until sufficient wood has been loaded and gradually reduce the air supply when the last loading is charring with flames from all its surfaces.

Letting the stove “tick over” with only one or two logs sitting on the grate is a false economy, and difficult to maintain clean combustion with a stove operating at low temperatures. Your stove is made from cast iron which takes time to absorb and dissipate heat and so it will give almost constant heating when run in cycles of small to medium fires.

Refuelling "little and often" will give the most visually satisfying stove, and until you gain the experience in operating your stove it will be the simplest method of operation. Successfully burning large charges of fuel is only possible when you understand the operation of your stove, the performance of your flue, and the characteristics of the wood you are burning.

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 4 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Choice of Logs.

Wood is described as being “hardwood” of “softwood”. Typically all broad leaf trees that lose their leaves in the winter are called hardwoods, and the evergreen conifers are called softwoods. Whilst the wood from the two groups have structural differences the terms do not define the density or hardness of the wood. Balsa, one of the softest and lightest of woods is classified as being a hardwood and Hemlock, a softwood, is extremely hard.

The less density wood has, the more its structure is made up of open spaces meaning it will season faster and because of these voids it will burn faster because it will expose more surface area as it disintegrates. This makes light woods suitable for kindling or a rapidly developing fire but unless you enjoy putting wood onto a fire every few minutes it is unsuitable for burning over long periods.

Although there is a difference in the speed at which woods burn, equal weights of wood will give very similar amounts of heat.

Because logs are concentric tubes of cells they season faster if they are split, halving the tubes and allowing the moisture to evaporate more easily. Similarly it also allows the volatile gasses given off when the wood is heated in a stove to be emitted along its full length rather than at the log’s ends.

This helps the gasses to be distributed more evenly within the stove and improves not only the efficiency, and emission reduction of wood burning but gives a more attractive fire.

Putting logs onto the fire, bark side down and laying them, well spaced, in random orientation, rather than uniformly horizontally, will also help to increase the efficiency and attractiveness of the fire. To make this easier the ideal log length will be the length the stove’s combustion chamber can accommodate in all directions, allowing you to load wood in a “higgledy-piggledy” manner.

This stove has been designed as a wood only burning stove. Euroheat can supply a kit to convert the stove to a multifuel stove suitable for burning mineral fuels such as anthracite, and other smokeless coals.

Ash Removal

Because it is not necessary, nor desirable, to supply air to a wood fire through the grate, it is only when the amount of ash above the grate becomes unsightly that ash removal becomes desirable.

Ash will, however, drop into the ash pan naturally and the ash pan should be checked periodically, to prevent ash overflowing from the ash pan into the stove. Carrying an overflowing ash pan through the house is both messy and a fire hazard. The ash pan withdrawing tool is not designed as a handle with which to carry the ashpan; use both hands and wear heat proof gloves. Leaving the ash door of the stove open allows an uncontrolled air supply into the stove and may allow the stove to burn at a rate beyond its design capability. Make it a practice never to leave this door open as no stove will survive being made to glow cherry red.

Ash Removal

Use the tool only to remove the ash pan from the stove

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 5 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Operating Tool and Heat Resistant Glove

The forked end of the operating tool is to operate the air wash slide above the door and the under grate air slide. The hooked end for removal of the ash pan from the stove, the ash pan should not be carried using the tool.

The heat resistant glove should always be worn whenever attending to a hot stove.

Looped end for ash pan removal

Heat Resistant Glove

Please note that the die is not colour fast and if damp may leach out and be absorbed into porous surfaces.

Forked end for operation of the air wash and under grate air slide.

Cleaning the stove

Cleaning the Glass

Properly operated, your glass will remain clean, and any slight sooting which may occur when the stove is lit will normally clear when the stove heats to its operating temperature. Before attempting to clean your stove’s glass the stove must be extinguished and allowed to cool, as for safety reasons it would be foolish to attempt cleaning when the stove is operating or still hot.

The glass in your stove is specially formulated to withstand the very high temperatures and proprietary glass cleaners are not recommended as their compositions may contain chemicals that will weaken or etch into the glass.

Newspaper moistened with water to which a little vinegar has been added will normally remove most staining, but for really stubborn marks, gentle polishing with fine steel wool lubricated with a few drops of dish washing detergent will need to be employed. Great care must be taken not to clean the glass too vigorously as particles of grit may have adhered with the stain and these could cause scratching if dragged across the glass. However well the stove burns it will eventually become necessary to clean the glass, but if cleaning becomes necessary too often we advise you to review your operating procedures to determine whether cleaner and more efficient combustion can be achieved.

The Stove Body

Dusting the stove may be carried out when the stove is at its minimum heat output temperature, using light strokes of a real bristle paint brush. Thorough cleaning, or any attempt to remove marks on the stove body must only be done when the stove is cold.

Stoves with a cast black finish must never be cleaned with a cloth as the texture of the surface will abrade and collect lint from the cloth which will be almost impossible to remove. Vigorous brushing with a stiff bristle paint brush will remove all dust, but where the paint is marked, the stains are better obliterated with a spray of suitable stove paint rather than attempts made to clean them off. Suitable paint may be purchased from a stove shop or direct from Euroheat.

The Flue

The installation guide recommends that your chimney is lined and insulated because the efficiency of the stove allows only the minimum of heat to be lost through the flue. A badly insulated or an oversized flue may cause problems if humid flue gases cool and form an acidic condensate on the surface of the flue. This may manifest itself as blackened water appearing beneath the flue pipe or discoloration on the chimney breast. Even if your flue is correctly lined it is advisable to run your stove at a high setting to thoroughly warm the flue periodically and always ensure it is swept by a qualified sweep regularly.

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 6 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Guide to Simple Maintenance

The stove must be cleaned of ash and any tarring as often as your use of the stove and fuel dictate.

All deposits on the stove interior will insulate the stove body from the fire and will reduce the stove’s efficiency. Flue ways which become choked will not only reduce the stoves performance but can become a serious health risk if the flue is not taking away all the gaseous products of combustion. It is important that all the stove doors close tightly and glass rope and ceramic fibre seals are replaced annually or when any signs of wear are apparent, and that only parts approved by Euroheat are fitted.

Removing Top Baffles

Lift the right hand baffle upwards, lifting the rear more than the front. Move the baffle towards the stove back to allow the front edge to clear the supporting ledge and pull forward. The left baffle removes similarly. To replace the baffles reverse the procedure, ensuring the front edges of the baffles are pulled to the front of the stove and the baffles are as close together as possible.

Replacing Glass and Glass Seals

When replacing glass always replace glass seals. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the holding clips. Stressed glass will crack.

Door handle adjustment

It is very important for correct operation that the furnace, door (glass door) when closed is air tight. Your stove is provided with an adjustable door latch. To adjust this latch, loosen the locking nut and adjust the bolt as required.

Retighten the locking nut. The adjustment should be made so that when the handle is in its closed position the door is air tight.

The side and ashpit doors have a latch which is adjusted by changing its alignment; an adjustable spanner is an ideal tool for this operation.

For additional information on internal component removal see Installation and Service Instructions.

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EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 7 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

Summer Shut Down

At the end of each heating season the entire installation should be thoroughly cleaned and examined for soundness, this should include having the flue examined by a registered sweep. If the stove does not have a boiler fitted it should be left with one of its air supplies open to encourage the evaporation of any rain that may enter the flue. The stove interior should be coated with a moisture repellent such as WD40. All operating mechanisms should be lubricated with oil; this applies particularly to the door handle shafts and latching blades.

Faulty Operation

If poor fuel and haphazard operating procedures can be ruled out, excess or poor flue draught are the most likely cause of a badly performing stove. A flue draught manometer will identify these quickly, but the actual causes of things such as an unreliable flue draught may take some considerable time, even by an experienced engineer to identify. However, if the stove has never performed correctly, call back the installation engineer. If its performance has deteriorated, examine the stove and the flue for soot and debris accumulation, ensure the door and glass seals are sound before contacting the engineer.

HAVE YOUR STOVE FITTED AND MAINTAINED BY EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONALS.

Optional tools and parts available from Euroheat

Leather heat resistant glove

Part No: 38548

Poker

Part No: 20017

Heat resistant spray paint

Part No: 40785

A multifuel conversion kit can be fitted to your stove making it suitable for burning mineral fuels such as anthracite, and other smokeless coals.

Part No: MS8001

Euroheat, Nestor Martin have a policy of continual research and development and reserve the right to modify its appliances without prior notice. We make every effort to ensure that the information provided in this document is correct and accurate at the time of printing. Continued updates occur to adapt documents to customer requirements and appliance changes. For the latest editions of all Euroheat documentation visit our web site www.euroheat.co.uk.

If you feel that there was information not provided in thios document we would welcome your comments, so that future users will benifit.

©

EUROHEAT

DISTRIBUTORS (H.B.S) LTD. May 2006 8 E & OE Instructions Part number IN1160 Ed B

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