The Complete Kit for Wheel Assembling and Truing

“WHEEL ASSEMBLY KIT”

Instruction Manual

MADE IN JAPAN

- 1 -

C O N T E N T S

ASSEMBLING BICYCLE WHEELS

CAUTION

REQUIRED TOOLS AND PARTS

... 3

... 3

• ABOUT COMPONENTS

RIM

SPOKE

NIPPLE

HUB

• BEFORE YOUR WORK

... 3

... 4

... 5

... 5

... 6

• HOW TO ASSEMBLE WHEELS

CHECK THE RIM

CHECK THE HUB

INSERT TO THE HUB

FIRST SETTING

SECOND SETTING

COMPLETE SECOND SETTING

SWIRL SPOKES

THIRD SETTING

FINAL SETTING

... 6

... 6

... 6

... 7

... 7

... 7

... 7

... 8

... 8

• TENSIONING SPOKES

ABOUT SPECIAL TENSIONING OF

THE REAR WHEEL

TENSION RIGHT SIDE SPOKES

... 9

... 9

• HOW TO FIX SIDE SHAKING

... 10

• HOW TO FIX VERTICAL SHAK-

ING

... 11

WHEEL TRUING STAND

• PURPOSE

(Workman Pro)

• COMPONENTS

ARMS

GAUGE FOR VERTICAL SHAKING

GAUGE FOR SIDE SHAKING

... 12

... 13

... 13

• HOW TO OPEN

... 13

• HOW TO FOLD

RIM CENTERING GAUGE

• PURPOSE

(FCG-300)

• HOW TO OPEN

• HOW TO CLOSE

• HOW TO USE

SPOKE WRENCH (NW-100)

• PURPOSE

• HOW TO USE

... 12

... 14

... 16

... 16

... 14

... 14

... 15

... 15

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ASSEMBLING BICYCLE WHEELS

Thank you for purchasing Minoura “WHEEL ASSEM-

BLY KIT”.

This kit includes three kinds of tools that you will need when you build or adjust your bicycle’s wheels; a wheel truing stand, a wheel centering gauge and a spoke wrench.

With the process to build a new bicycle wheel by yourself, you can save money rather than buying the complete wheel at a shop. Because you don’t need to pay extra charge for anyone to build it in his factory. You also can increase your bicycle repair skills and change your bicycle much better than ever before.

Please read this instructions carefully before use, and get a knowledge about bicycle wheels. We hope you will get good skills with our “WHEEL ASSEMBLY

KIT”.

The following items will help your work;

• Nipple driver or small flat screwdriver

• Spoke tension meter

• Plastic hammer

• Small bowl or box for nipples

• Lubricant

§ RIM

ABOUT COMPONENTS

In this instructions, we use a light alloy rim with 36 holes. Please check the following points.

IMPORTANT NOTE

The following instructions are just a sample way we took. So you need to understand that you should use another approach when you build a different wheel.

In this instructions, we picked up a rear wheel with 36-spoke for MTB.

We don’t explain in this instructions about the front wheel and composite wheel.

Also you should understand that carbon or alloy made composite wheels cannot be repaired or trued.

DIAMETER

Check the diameter of the rim.

Rim should be correct fit for your tire. You cannot use the wrong one.

There are some common rim sizes for bicycles in the market, for example 26, 27-inch and 700C. If you already have tires, you should make sure of the diameter of your tires before going to the shop.

SPOKE HOLES

Check the number of the spoke holes on the rims.

We usually use a rim for bicycles which has 36 spoke holes. However some choose another rim which has 32 or less holes, for example for the front wheel of road bikes.

And check the rim has eyelets which will reinforce the spoke holes.

§ REQUIRED TOOLS AND PARTS

You have to prepare the following tools and parts before your work;

• Rim

• Spokes

• Hub

• Nipples

• Quick Release Skewer

• Vibyl Tape

• Rags

• Acetone

VALVE STEM HOLE

Check the size of the valve stem hole.

You should look for the valve hole on the rim surface.

Both American and English style valves require a larger valve stem hole, but French style valve needs a narrow hole.

SECTIONAL SHAPE

Check the sectional shape of the rim to fit for

- 3 your tire.

Most road bikes usually use tubeless tires which are fixed by rubber glue, so it requires flat sectional shape.

However most MTB usually require the rim with ordinary tube which has shoulders inside to hold the tire bead.

Wrong sized rim, too narrow or too wide, can cause the tire to come off or be punctured easily. So you should ask to your local shop about the combination of the rim and the tire, and choose the correct size.

own problems.

Titanium spokes are very light weight, but they can be broken easily by sudden force. Chrome plated steel spokes are cheap, but they will rust easily.

You should choose the material with your own purpose.

We use stainless steel spokes because it is cheaper than titanium, and its has enough strength.

MATERIAL

Check the material of the rims.

There are many kinds of material for the rims in the market; light alloy, stainless steel, chrome plated steel or carbon. They have their own benefits, but they also have their own problems.

If you will use the wheel only for race, you can choose a light weight one. But if you will use the wheel everyday, you should take strength rather than weight.

In this instructions, we choose a light alloy rim, because it is light weight enough and durable and has a reasonable price.

DISTORTION

Check the distortion of the rim.

At first, place the rim on a flat table, and next, push down the edge with your fingers. If the other side has raised up more than 5mm, the rim is bad. You should exchange it for a better one. It is the most important thing when you buy a rim at a shop. Because it is difficult to fix the distortion of the rim will keep its own shape.

§SPOKE

In this instructions, we use 36 pieces of 14-gauge nonbutted 265mm stainless steel spokes. Please check the following things.

MATERIAL

Check the material of the spokes.

There are various kinds of materials for spokes in the market; stainless steel, chrome plated steel or titanium.

They have their own benefits, and also they have their

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SHAPE

Check the shape of the spokes.

There are two kinds of its style; straight and swaged.

We usually use swaged spokes. However some choose straight spokes with a special hub for the front wheel of road bikes.

There are other kind of shapes; butted and non-butted.

Butted spokes have flat shafts on its center part for aerodynamics. But you should understand that butted spokes are weaker than non-butted spokes.

SIZE

Check the length and diameter of the spokes.

Mostly there are two different diameters of the spokes;

14-gauge (2.0mm) and 15-gauge (1.8mm).

We usually use 15-gauge spokes for bicycles. Although some heavy weight riders should choose 14-gauge spokes.

All spokes must be the correct size for the nipples, it is the most important thing.

And there are many length of the spokes available.

Length is decided by two factors; radial or tangential wheel style, and front or rear. Rear wheel requires a special style to construct, it is “offset”.

We can see the different spoke angles on the rear wheel between right side and left side. Right side (rear cog side) spokes are more near by hub center than the left side. Because rear wheel must have 8 to 10 transmission gears on its right side, so the spokes must walk away to the center.

We recommend the best spoke length combination for best fitting, right side spokes should be 1mm shorter and left side spokes should be 1mm longer. You may ask to your local shop what the length of the spokes that you need.

THREAD

Check the threads on the spoke’s tip.

The thread of the spokes must be as same as the nipples.

You should screw all nipples through the spokes before your work, and check the condition of the threads.

In some cases, you should wipe off lube or grease on the thread with rags. Lubricant sometimes will cause some troubles to the spokes and the nipples during your ride; loosening each other.

§NIPPLE

We use 36 brass nipples which fit for 14-gauge spokes.

Please check the folowing points.

SIZE

Check the thread of the nipples.

The nipples must fit for the thread of the spokes.

At first, you should screw all nipples through the spokes, and check the fittings.

You should make your attention especially on 15-gauge spokes. They can put through the 14-gauge nipples easily, but it is bad combination (15-gauge spoke and

14-gauge nipple) that the threads will be broken at a moment.

Do not use different sized spoke wrench to the nipples.

If you use it, you will not be able to continue your work as you will round the nipples.

Do not select too short sized nipples. Because the spoke wrench must reach the nipples.

MATERIAL

Check the material of the nipples.

There are two kind of materials in nipples in the market; brass and light alloy.

You should select brass nipples because light alloy nipples are light weight and colorful but weak. If you don’t have special spoke wrench for the alloy nipples, you will round them easily, and you will not be able to continue your work.

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§ HUB

In this instructions, we use light alloy 36-hole rear hub.

Please check the following points.

HOLES

Check the number of the spoke holes on the hub.

The number of the spoke holes should be the same as on the rim. If you choose wrong one, you must buy the right one.

SHAPE

Check the shape of the hub flange.

We can see the direction of the holes on the hub flange.

We usually choose the hub which direction of the spoke holes are as same as the hub shaft. However in some cases, for the front wheel of road bike, someone can select the special hub which have radial direction holes to install the straight spokes.

Also you should check the shape of the spoke holes, too.

If it has no hollow to sink the spoke head, the spokes may be cut by the edge.

And you need to check the thickness of the hub flange.

If the hub has too thick flange, you cannot set plain spokes to it.

MATERIAL

Check the material of the hub.

There are various kind of materials for the hubs in the market. Chrome plated steel hubs are cheaper than light alloy, but they can rust easily.

SHAPE OF THE HUB SHAFT

Check the shape of the hub shaft.

The hub shaft have three types; for normal quick release skewer, 20mm diameter through axle for downhill bikes or for plain hub nut.

If you choose the hub for quick release system, please make sure that your quick release skewer will fit the hub shaft.

BEFORE YOUR WORK

1.

Check the number of the spoke holes in the rim and the hub, as well as the number of the spokes and the nipples.

2.

Make groups of the spokes; for front, for right rear and for left rear.

And make sure that all spokes in its own group are the same length within 1mm.

3.

Drop oil on the thread of the spokes and wipe off.

Excess oil may cause bad effect, loosening spokes during your ride. And keep them away from any dusts.

4.

Wipe all spoke holes in the rim with rags.

5.

Put all nipples into a small bowl or box, and place them where they are easy to be reached.

6.

Make sure your work area is well-lighted.

HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE WHEEL

1. CHECK THE RIM

You should make sure that right and left side spoke holes in the rim are offset on the rim’s centerline to keep integrity of the wheel.

In the case of Aero-rim, you will see all spoke holes are on the same line, but they are slanted inside the rim. You can see the angle of them from the inside of the rim.

And place the rim on a desk with valve stem hole at the far side.

2. CHECK THE HUB

If the next left side spoke hole to the valve stem hole is offset upper from the rim’s centerline, hold the rear hub with its drive side down. It is important for the wheel’s integrity.

You should pay attention to the position of the spoke holes on the hub flange also. Upper side spoke holes on the hub flange are half pitch offset to the other side’s holes.

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3. INSERT TO THE HUB

Insert the first spoke from inside to the spoke hole anywhere you want. And insert the rest of the spokes into every second holes on the hub flange.

4. FIRST SETTING

Hold the hub vertically with its drive side down, and insert the first spoke into the left side hole of the valve stem hole, which is on the upper side of the rim’s centerline, and screw a nipple slightly.

6. COMPLETE SECOND SETTING

As STEP:4, insert the rest of the spokes into the next left spoke holes which were already inserted in STEP:4, and screw the nipples slightly.

After you finished this work, you can see all spokes are constructed with parallel and radial pattern.

Next, insert the two pitchs left spoke of the hub into the fourth left spoke hole in the rim, and screw a nipple.

Then insert the rest of the spokes into every fourth holes.

5. SECOND SETTING

Turn over the wheel to assemble another side before inserting spokes.

As STEP:3, insert the spokes from inside to every second hub spoke holes. In this time, you should make sure that these spoke holes are half pitch left to the other side holes.

7. SWIRL SPOKES

Rotate the hub to cross the spokes.

With holding the rim and rotate the hub clockwise.

Now, you can see all spokes are in swirl pattern. This is the foundation to cross spokes.

You should push or pull the spokes to sink all its heads into the spoke holes in the rim.

If you don’t do it, the crossing spokes will not reach to its own holes.

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8. THIRD SETTING

Insert the first spoke from inside into the spoke hole on the hub flange, and pull up it avouch and drop it to left.

Pass the spoke under the spoke which is pulled from fifth left hub flange spoke hole. And insert the spoke into the second left rim spoke hole, where is two left next to the passed under spoke was inserted.

Then screw the nipple slightly.

Pass the rest of the spokes and insert them into the spoke holes in the rim with same process.

Completed wheel

9. FINAL SETTING

Turn over the wheel, and assemble the other side spokes.

Be careful that you drop the spokes to the left in STEP:8, but in this side, you must drop them to the right.

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TENSIONING SPOKES

§ ABOUT SPECIAL TENSIONING OF

THE REAR WHEEL

In the front wheel, it is very easy that you can tension all spokes equally with ignoring the direction of right and left. However in the rear wheel, you have to select another process; offset tensioning.

You can notice that the rear wheel has different spoke angle pattern with looking at the wheel from behind.

Rear hub is not symmetrical to the wheel, left side flange is far from the wheel centerline, and right side flange is deep in the wheel. Because rear hub must have extra space where the transmission gear will be located. But you have to assemble rear wheel symmetrically in this strange situation for its stable balance. It is offset.

We suggest that you have to tension all spokes equally, so that you should start all tensioning from the spoke next to the valve stem hole.

And we suggest that you can tighten the nipples, but you should not loosen them during tensioning and truing. The threads of the nipples and spokes are not as durable as you think. You can try once only.

1.

Install the assembled wheel on a wheel truing stand.

Spread arms of the truing stand and insert the hub shaft into the hollow of the top of the arm.

Fix the quick release lever or tighten the hub nut slightly with pushing down the wheel.

In this instructions, the drive side is in the right.

In this time, make sure that the wheel is installed correctly to the truing stand. You will not be able to finish this process with slanted wheel installation.

And take all gauges of the truing stand away from the wheel now.

We will explain how to use the wheel truing stand in the following pages.

2.

Rotate the wheel slowly, and tighten the nipples, which are connected to the drive side of the hub flange, equally by your finger until these nipples are tight.

In offset wheel, the torque works only to the right side spokes. Because right side spokes should be assembled more vertically than left side.

So you should understand that right side spoke tension is more important than left side spoke’s one in this offset assembling. Well adjusted right side spokes can keep your wheel stable in the future. Left side spoke tension is just a help.

§ TENSION RIGHT SIDE SPOKES

At first, you have to take care of right side spokes only.

Left side spokes will be adjusted after this process, so now you don’t have to worry about them.

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3.

Tighten the nipples equally with a spoke wrench little by little.

You should make sure that you don’t tension all spokes completely, because you will have to tension the other side spokes later.

4.

After you finish this work, check the vertical shaking of the wheel first.

You can ignore the shaking within 3mm now, it is just a habit of the rim. It will not cause any troubles. But if the vertical shaking will be appeared more than 6mm, you may not use this wheel in a race to prevent accidents.

5.

Remove the side shaking. Of course, you have to do this process with right side spokes only. We will explain how to fix the side or vertical shaking in the following pages.

And you don’t have to worry about the wheel centering adjustment now, you will do later.

It is very important thing that you cannot touch to the right side spokes at all after you finished above adjustment process.

6.

Tension the left side spokes and adjust wheel centering.

Rotate the wheel slowly, and tighten the left side nipples equally by your finger. When the nipples stop, you can use the spoke wrench.

See the vertical gauge and rim, adjust the left side spoke tensioning until the rim is in the center of the gauge scale.

Sometimes remove the wheel from the truing stand, and put the rim centering gauge onto the wheel to check the wheel is symmetric.

We explain how to use the rim centering gauge in the following pages.

7.

Adjust the side shaking again after you finsh the wheel center adjuting.

Understand that this side shaking was cause by the left side spokes only, so you should fix it by the left side spokes only. Do not touch the right side spokes.

8.

Finally, check spoke tensions with a special spoke tension meter if you need.

HOW TO FIX SIDE SHAKING

The side shaking within 2mm may not cause any troubles. But if you want to be it zero, you can try again and again with the following process.

1.

You can see two knob bolts on both side of the Ushaped gauge frame. Put the tips of them close to the surface of the rim. Do not touch the rim.

Rotate the wheel slowly, and check the side shaking.

And stick vinyl tapes to two spokes; one is the beginning amd one is in the ending of the side shaking.

2.

Make three groups of these spokes between the vinyl tales as below;

Group-A : Three or less spokes in the beginning and in the ending of side shaking.

Group-B : Three or less spokes between Group-

A except for the center one.

Group-C : The center one between the vinyl tapes.

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3.

If the rim shakes to the right, tighten the left side spokes. Do not loosen the right side spokes. Because the nipples are made by soft material, brass or light alloy, so its thread can be broken easily by loosening.

4.

Tighten Group-A nipples about 1/8 turns, Group-B about 1/4 turns, and Group-C about 1/2 turns.

And then check the side shaking with rotating the wheel slowly again.

If the wheel shakes yet, continue the process again.

When you hear strange sound from the nipples or see some kind of strings while you tighten the spokes, the thread of the nipples will be broken soon. But do not apply any oils to the nipples to remove the sound, and try to exchange the nipple to the new one as soon as possible.

HOW TO FIX VERTICAL SHAKING

The vertical shaking within 2mm may not cause any troubles. But if you want to be it zero, you can try again and again with the following process.

It is similar to the process as side shaking.

In this case, you should tighten both side of the nipples equally.

1.

You can see a gauge plate on the U-shaped gauge frame.

Put the tips of the plate close to the surface of the rim.

Rotate the wheel slowly, and check the vertical shaking. And stick vinyl tapes to two spokes; one is in the beginning and one is in the ending of vertical shaking.

2.

Make three groups of these spokes between the vinyl tapes as below;

Group-A : Three or less spokes in the beginning and in the ending of vertical shaking.

Group-B : Three or less spokes between Group-A except for the center one.

Group-C : The center one between the vinyl tapes.

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3.

If the rim shakes to downward, tighten both side nipples.

And if the rim shakes upward, tighten both far side nipples. Do not loosen the nipples.

Because the nipples are made by soft material, brass or light alloy, so its thread can be broken easily by loosening.

4.

Tighten Group-A nipples about 1/8 turns, Group-B about

1/4 turns, and Group-C about 1/2 turns. And then check the vertical shaking with rotating the wheel slowly again.

If the wheel shakes yet, continue the process again.

When you hear strange sound from the nipples or see some kind of strings while you tighten the nipples, the thread of the nipples will be broken soon. But do not apply any oils to the nipples to remove the sound, and try to exchange the nipple to the new one as soon as possible.

WHEEL TRUING STAND

(Workman Pro)

This “WHEEL ASSEMLY KIT” already includes a wheel truing stand “Workman Pro”.

You can see how to use the Workman Pro above, so in this step, we explain the functions of this wheel truing stand only.

§ PURPOSE

A wheel truing stand is a utensil to measure the balance of the wheel. Do not use Workman Pro as a display stand or an indoor bicycle trainer.

This Workman Pro has a special method, auto-centering system, so you can finish building or checking a wheel with only this truing stand basically.

But we include a wheel centering gauge in this kit for your complete wheel adjustment.

§ COMPONENTS

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ARMS

Both right and left arms are connected so they will move together at the same time. When you open or close the arms, you should hold both arms with your both hands.

The arms have hollow on its top to hold the wheel hub shaft.

When you install a wheel on the Workman Pro, follow these processes.

At first, open the arms enough to install the wheel hub shaft, and push down the wheel into the hollow of the arms, then fix the quick release lever or tighten the hub nut slightly.

Side

Shaking

Gauge

U-shaped

Gauge

Frame

Vertical

Shaking

Gauge Plate

GAUGE FOR VERTICAL SHAKING

The gauge plate for vertical shaking is located in the center of the U-shaped gauge frame, and it has two purposes.

One is measure the vertical shaking of the wheel, and another one is to help adjustment for wheel centering process.

When you want measure the vertical shaking of the wheel, put the U-shaped gauge frame close to the rim.

And put the gauge plate close to the rim surface with rotating the knob bolts. The knob bolt has 0.1mm level scales in its own surface.

Rotate the wheel slowly and see the clearance between the gauge plate and the rim surface carefully.

Sometimes the gauge plate will touch to the rim, and sometimes the gauge plate will be away from the rim.

This is the vertical shaking.

Please fix this vertical shaking with “ HOW TO FIX

VERTICAL SHAKING ” step above.

You do not have to worry about 3mm or less vertical shaking, it may not cause any troubles.

Vertical Shaking

Gauge Knob

Gauge Stay

GAUGE FOR SIDE SHAKING

The gauges for side shaking are located on the both side of the U-shaped gauge frame, they are the knob bolts.

They have 0.1mm level scale on their own surfaces.

After you set the wheel on the Workman Pro, put the Ushaped frame close to the rim. And tighten the knob bolts to approach to the rim surface.

Rotate the wheel slowly, and see the clearance between the tip of the knob bolts and the rim surface.

Sometimes will touch to the rim and sometimes will be away from the rim. This is the side shaking.

Please fix this side shaking with “ HOW TO FIX SIDE

SHAKING ” step above.

You do not have to worry about 3mm or less side shaking, it may not cause any troubles.

When you want to adjust the rim centering, see the scale on the gauge plate and the rim position. If the rim is in the center of the scale, the wheel is right positioned. But when the rim is too right or too left, the wheel is not correct. Wrong rim position may cause some troubles, for example one side braking or spoiling running stability, so you should fix the centering of the wheel.

Please fix this vertical shaking with “ TENSIONING

THE SPOKES ” step above.

You do not have to worry about 3mm or less difference of the centering position, it may not cause any troubles.

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§ HOW TO OPEN

The Workman Pro is received in its own box folded down. When you use it, please open the frame with the following steps.

1.

Loosen the knob bolt which is located on the foot of the arm. And open the gauge stay a little. Then open the

U-shaped gauge frame at right angles.

2.

Then you can open the leg stay fully until it stops to the end, and place the Workman Pro on the table.

In this time, you should make your attention that you do not pinch your finger to the frame and the stay.

3.

Finally, open the gauge stay, and tighten the knob bolt to fix the gauge stay position.

§ HOW TO FOLD

To prevent some accidents, you should fold the Workman Pro when you store it.

1.

Hold both arms with your both hands, and push toward inside at the end.

2.

Loosen the knob bolt which fixes the gauge stay, and fold the gauge stay half way. Hold the U-shaped gauge frame at right angles.

3.

Then you can fold the Workman Pro. Make sure that you do not pinch your finger in the frame or the stay.

4.

Finally, raise up the U-shaped gauge frame until it is parallel to the gauge stay. And tighten the knob bolt again to fix the gauge stay.

RIM CENTERING GAUGE

(FCG-300)

This “WHEEL ASSEMBLY KIT” already includes a foldable wheel centering gauge “FCG-300”.

You can know how to use the FCG-300 in the above steps, so we explain the functions only.

§ PURPOSE

A rim centering gauge is the utensil to measure if the wheel is parallel. You can use FCG-300 as the helper of the wheel truing stand Workman Pro.

§ HOW TO OPEN

This rim centering gauge is foldable for easy handling and transporting. You should use the following process so as not to break the joint system.

1.

Loosen the knob nut enoughly which is on the joint.

2.

Pull to separate the right and left frames in the direction of front and behind.

The joint is made by plastic so it may be broken easily with forceful operation. You should take care of it.

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3.

Open the frames widely, and push down to the surface of the table to keep its both plastic brackets will be parallel.

4.

After opening the frames, push toward inside and let the joints to bite each other.

5.

Hold the stainless gauge plate with its hole down, and tighten the knob nut firmly again.

3.

Place both plastic brackets onto both side of the wheel, and slide the stainless gauge plate down until the edge of the hub shaft will be inserted into the hole on the stainless gauge plate.

4.

Tighten the knob nut again with keeping the position.

5.

Turn over the wheel, and place the rim centering gauge onto the other side of the wheel. Do not forget to insert the hub shaft into the hole of the stainless gauge plate.

§ HOW TO CLOSE

Close the rim centering gauge with opposite process of above.

In this time, make sure that the plastic joint will not be broken with pulling out separately to each other.

The stainless gauge plate will fit with its hole down.

6.

If the stainless gauge plate does not touch to the hub shaft while both plastic brackets are touching to the rim surface, the wheel has some difference in the direction of this side.

§ HOW TO USE

Hole Side

1.

At first, remove the quick release skewer or the hub nuts of the wheel.

2.

Loosen the joint knob nut slightly, then the stainless gauge plate will be able to slide down.

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7.

If one of the plastic brackets does not touch to the rim surface while both stainless gauge plate and another plastic bracket touch to the rim and the hub, the wheel has some difference in the direction of reverse side.

8.

When you see the difference, see “ HOW TO FIX SIDE

SHAKING ” steps.

You adjusted one side spokes to fix the side shaking.

But in this case, to fix the centering position, you should adjust both right and left spokes. It is important.

SPOKE WRENCH

(NW-100)

2.

You should insert the nipples into the wrench jaw deeply.

If you did not insert enough, the nipples will round easily.

3.

Do not loosen the nipples as we expalined in above steps. You can tighten the nipples only.

4.

If you hear some strange sound from the nipples when you tighten them with a spoke wrench, the nipples will be broken soon. Do not tighten any more, and exchange it for a new one as soon as possible.

This “WHEEL ASSEMBLY KIT” already includes a spoke wrench “NW-100”. You can see how to use it above steps, so we explain the functions only.

§ PURPOSE

For more information:

A spoke wrench is a tool to tighten the spokes, shoule not loosen.

This NW-100 has three different sizes in its body; 14G,

15G and 3.3mm. So you can use this NW-100 for any sized nipples.

But if you choose light alloy nipples to your wheel, you should prepare the special spoke wrench which will fit for these light alloy nipples completely.

When you use the wrong sized wrench, the nipples will round easily. This NW-100 is for brass nipples only.

MINOURA JAPAN HEAD OFFICE

1197-1 Godo, Anpachi

Gifu 503-2305 Japan

Phone (+81) 584-27-3131

Fax (+81) 584-27-7505

Email : [email protected]

URL : www.minoura.jp

§ HOW TO USE

MINOURA NORTH AMERICAN CENTER

(for North American residents only)

1996 East Avenue

Hayward, CA 94541-5454 U.S.A.

Fax 1-510-538-5899

Email : [email protected]

1.

Insert the wrench jaw into the nipples. When you feel the gap between the spoke wrench and the nipple, do not continue your work, and choose another size of the wrench jaw.

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Sepcial thanks:

“The Bicycle Wheel” by Jobst Brandt

“Mountainbike Manual” by Tadashi Yashiro