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THE NEW FOIL FEATURES THE SAME LIGHTWEIGHT FRAME CHARACTERISTICS AS ITS PREDECESSOR AND IS AMONGST THE LIGHT-
EST AERO BIKES ON THE MARKET. THE FRAME AERODYNAMICS OF THE BIKE HAVE BEEN REWORKED FROM THE HEADTUBE ALL
THE WAY TO THE REAR DROPOUTS, STIFFNESS AND COMFORT VALUES HAVE BEEN LIFTED TO A NEW LEVEL AND THE INTEGRATED
COCKPIT IS JUST ONE EXAMPLE THAT SHOWS HOW FAR COMPONENT INTEGRATION HAS BEEN TAKEN ON THE NEW FOIL. THE IDEA
BEHIND THIS MANUAL IS TO GUIDE YOU THROUGH THE BUILD-UP OF A DI2-EQUIPPED FOIL. LARS TEUTENBERG, TECHNICAL TEAM
LIASON, KNOWS ALL THE LITTLE TRICKS TO ENSURE THAT THE BUILD OF THE NEW FOIL CAN BE DONE QUICKLY AND EFFICIENTLY.
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GETTING STARTED
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Before you start assembling the bike, we recommend doing an inventory check of all parts (components, cables, wires, junctions, etc.), as well as a brief function test of the electronic Shimano Di2 groupset. To do so, connect all Shimano parts and connect via
SM-PCE1 or SM-BCR2 to a laptop. Update all components with the e-tube software.
Finally, check whether the drivetrain functions properly.
ELECTRONIC SHIFTING CONFIGUARTION :
A B C D
SM-EW90-A
CPU
FRONT BRAKE
REAR BRAKE
BA
TTERY SM-BTR2
A
FD
B
RD
REAR BRAKE
650 mm
500-650 mm
FD
C
250 mm
35 mm
D
1200 mm
FD
FRONT BRAKE
35 mm
1200 mm
Wiring diagram: before you start building the Foil, check out the wiring diagram in order to use the right parts in the right places.
Follow Shimano’s instructions regarding the installation of Di2 parts.
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Start the build-up of the Foil with the integrated Syncros Aero RR1.0 Cockpit. It’s considerably easier to install the cables on the cockpit when it’s not mounted on the fork. The Syncros Aero RR1.0 Cockpit is available in 9 different stem length/bar width combinations as an aftermarket piece. Thanks to a reducer shim, the cockpit is compatible with both 1 1/4” and 1 1/8” steerers.
Start the bar assembly with the two 35mm connecting wires for the shifters. Turn the bar upside down and insert the cables into the distant holes on the left and right side respectively. Push the cables to the center and pull them out where the junction box is ultimately going to be placed. A tool or a simple spoke might help to get the cables out. Make sure the cable between the shifter and the cable entry on the bar is loose in order to avoid over-tensioning once bar tape is applied. Over-tensioning often causes malfunction because the wire can be unplugged.
Insert a 1200mm Di2 cable into the right brake cable exit (top view) and push it towards the center. Pull it out through the big opening. For English brake setups use the left hole instead.
This cable will later connect the junction box (Junction A) with the internal junction box (Junction B).
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Connect all three cables to the 3 port junction box (Junction A/SM-EW-90-A). Use a Shimano tool to ensure a firm connection.
Insert the brake cable into the distal hole and pull it out of the medial brake cable hole (don’t cross over the big center opening for the junction box).
Here again, a spoke might help to pull the cable out of the medial hole.
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Mount the brake leavers on the bar. Check that the brake cables are correctly pre-installed.
FOIL BUILD UP MANUAL / SCOTT / FOIL / 2016
Repeat the same procedure on the other side.
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We recommend using a Shimano Direct Mount Quick Release (SM-CB90) which facilitates rear brake adjustment on the Foil. Install the QR either
5cm from the bar or in the middle of the externally routed brake cable under the bottom bracket.
Fix the junction box (Junction A) to the cover by using a zip tie.
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To correctly install the cable housings, start by cutting them to the right length. Slide the housings over the pre-installed brake cables. Use a bit of oil or grease to reduce the friction. Make sure that the cable housing sits tightly in the foreseen opening of the brake leaver.
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Make sure the button of the junction box is placed correctly under the hole of the cover.
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Align the cover correctly and fix it with the two bolts. Tighten the bolts to
1-1.5Nm using an Allen key.
Slide the installed junction box into the opening of the cockpit from the front at a 45° angle. Make sure the button is still placed under the hole of the cover.
If you want to equip the Foil with Shimano’s Di2 Sprint Shifters
(SW-R610), install them right under the brake levers and connect the Sprint Shifter wire with the brake lever using the Shimano tool.
Before the rear brake cable is inserted into the frame, make sure you pre-install cable guides or a shrinking tube in order to hold together the cable housing and the Di2 wire.
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Use the correct cable guide for the downtube. There is one specifically for Di2 mounts and one for mechanical groupsets. Before inserting the cables into the frame, make sure to guide the cables through the indicated openings of the cable guide.
Continue with the headset cover and the required amount of spacers. SCOTT offers specific aero-spacers for the Foil available in the following sizes: 2mm,
5mm, 10mm and 20mm. The Foil is delivered with
1x20mm, 2x10mm, 1x5mm and 3x2mm spacers.
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Start mounting the frameset by placing the bigger 1 1/4“ bearing on the fork crown and the smaller 1 1/8” on the top using assembly grease. Add the compression ring on top of upper bearing.
Mount the pre-installed Syncros cockpit on the steerer.
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Mark the top end of the stem on the steerer and cut the steerer 3-4mm below the marking. If you are unsure about your final bar height, include some standard 1 1/4” round spacers on top of the stem to maintain flexibility for height adjustment.
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Install the headset expander by sliding it into the steerer under slight tension. Tighten the expander to 8-10Nm. Use a torque wrench to ensure that you don’t overtighten the bolt.
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Fix the Di2 wire that goes into the frame to the rear brake cable with a piece of tape.
This will facilitate pushing both cables through the frame. Make sure the shrinking tube and cable guide have been installed according to the above description before you proceed with this step.
Install the cockpit and loosely tighten the screw of the top cap.
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Insert the rear cap and position it correctly by lifting the stem about 1-2mm. Continue by tightening the top cap screw until the head set play is balanced. Finish the handlebar mount by tightening the stem to a maximum of 5Nm. Use a torque wrench to ensure that you don’t overtighten the stem bolts.
Insert the cables into the opening on top of the downtube and push them down until they appear at the bottom bracket opening of the frame.
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Insert a 650mm Di2 wire into the opening of the dropout and push it towards the bottom bracket opening. Plug the cable into the internal junction box (Junction B).
Remove the tape and install the internal junction
(SM-JC41/Junction B) to the Di2 wire.
Mount the rear derailleur, install a rubber seal on the Di2 wire and connect the latter to the rear derailleur using the recommended tool from Shimano.
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Insert a 250mm Di2 wire into the hole below the front derailleur mount and connect it with the internal junction box (Junction B).
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Install the front derailleur with the Foil-specific carbon plate. This replaces the original piece that comes standard with Shimano front derailleurs. The derailleur hanger will be damaged if the original
Shimano pieces are used.
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After the front derailleur has been mounted, adjust the frame stopper bolt so that it sits tightly on the frame. Without proper adjustment of the stopper bolt, it is possible that the front derailleur hanger can be damaged during the shifting process. A properly adjusted stopper bolt will also improve shifting performance.
Fit a rubber seal over the Di2 wire and push it firmly into the hole to finish the front derailleur installation.
To fix the internal Di2 battery on the bottom of the seatpost, place the rubber seals over the battery with the correct side facing down.
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Align the rubber pieces correctly and push the battery into the seatpost with the wire facing down.
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Push a brake cable from the bottom bracket through the seattube. Fix a 550mm Di2 wire with a tape on the brake cable and pull it down the seattube and out of the bottom bracket box.
Connect the Di2 wire with the internal junction box
(Junction B).
To install the internal seatpost clamp, start by putting grease on the tightening bolt. Make sure no grease reaches the concave contact area of the post.
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It is easier to mount the saddle on the seatpost when the seatpost is not yet fixed in the frame. Make sure to use the correct fixation clamp. There are versions for round and oval shaped rails available.
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Place the seatclamp with the front section (as indicated) facing the direction of the toptube into the opening of the frame. Make sure the red front and back pieces remain properly aligned (left side). If this is not the case (right side), the bolt needs to be overtightened in order for the seatpost to stay in place.
Connect the Di2 wire that is routed through the seatpost with the internal Di2 battery mounted on the seatpost. Use carbon grease on the seatpost to increase friction. Slide the seatpost into the frame carefully so as to not damage the Di2 wire. Pull the cable slightly from the bottom. Tighten the bolt of the seatclamp to 5Nm Use a torque wrench to avoid overtightening of the bolt.
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Place the cable stop and measure the housing to the correct length. Make sure the cable can always move freely when full brake force is applied.
Push the internal junction box slightly into the downtube. Place the Shimano press fit bottom bracket in such a way that the cables are not squeezed. Press the bottom bracket into the frame using the correct Shimano tool. Place the rubber piece into the hole under the bottom bracket.
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Mount the Shimano Direct Mount rear brake. Pull the brake cable out of the hole on the downside of the downtube. Here again, a spoke might help to get the cable out of the frame.
Fix the brake cable on the Shimano Direct Mount rear brake.
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Adjust the brake housing to the correct length so that steering remains unrestricted.
Install the front brake on the fork.
To install the crankset, push the axle through the bottom bracket. Tighten the cover screw with the respective Shimano tool and make sure it doesn’t sit too tightly. Tighten the bolts on the left crank arm to 13-15Nm. Use a torque wrench to avoid overtightening of the bolts.
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Shorten the chain to the correct length and mount it by using a chain tool for Shimano. Make sure the orientation of the chain is correct.
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Install the front and rear wheel and make sure they are properly aligned with the frame. Align the brake pads to the rim and adjust the distance. Make sure you use the recommended brake pads for your wheelset.
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Wrap the handle bar tape and fix it with tape right after the radius where the bar features a small step. The top of the bar is ergonomically shaped and features an anti-slip coating so that no bar tape is required.
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WI N
EVERY
RIDE
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F O I L
B U I L D U P
M A N UA L
S C O T T | 2 0 1 6
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