CDI Electronics outboard engine Troubleshooting Guide

Introduction

The information contained in this Troubleshooting Guide has been compiled from various sources within the marine industry. Any reference to a specific product or brand is not intended for commercial purposes. References to test equipment and products are based upon the information available to the staff of CDI Electronics. This information is designed for use as a

reference guide by a professional marine technician. CDI Electronics cannot be held liable for

the misuse or abuse of the information contained herein. The staff tries to make the information as accurate as possible. However, CDI Electronics cannot assume responsibility for either the data accuracy or the consequences of the data's application.

© CDI Electronics 2004

Safety Issues

Always remember to treat the outboard engine with respect. The engine uses high voltage for ignition and contains several moving components. Always be aware of moving mechanical parts, the surrounding area, and the position of your hands and body near the engine.

• Never touch electrical components with wet hands.

• Whenever the power source is not needed, disconnect the cable from the negative

terminal.

• Never reverse the battery leads when you connect the battery or disconnect the

terminals while the engine is running.

• Never touch high-tension leads (spark plug leads) with any ungrounded tools while the

engine is running.

• Never install equipment with requirements exceeding the generating power of the

engine. Reference the service manual for values.

• Attempt to protect the electronic components from water.

• Insure fuel lines, harnesses, and oil lines are properly routed. Failure to follow this rule

could result in a fire hazard.

• Make sure all ground leads are clean and tight.

2

Recommended Marine Shop Electrical Test Equipment and Tools

The following is a listing of tools available from CDI Electronics and recommended for testing late model engines:

Number

511-9764 Neon Spark Tester

511-9766 Sealed Spark Gap Tester

Sealed single cylinder has removable ground clamp can be used for running tests

Allows for testing up to 8 cylinder for cranking

511-9773

tests.

511-9770 Piercing Allows access to wires for testing without removing

the

DVA (Peak Voltage)Adapter Unit automatically compensates for polarity. Can be

. most Multimeters

511-9775

testing

518-33A

Load Resistor

CDI 33 Meter

Used to load the output of ignition modules when coils.

Meter has voltage, amperage, diode check and ohms

Includes 511-9773 DVA Adapter DVA Adapter allows meter to read peak voltage

518-80TK

520-ST80

551-33GF

Fluke Temperature Adapter

DC Inductive Timing Light

Works with most digital Multimeters capable of reading millivolts.

DC Powered timing light with a very bright strobe light.

Gearcase Filler w/Check Valve Universal design makes filling lower units easier. Check valve

551-34PV Pressure/Vacuum

551-5110 Flywheel Holder assembly helps prevent oil spills and makes filling easier.

Repairable metal combination unit does both

vacuum and pressure testing. handle use.

551-9765

553-2700

553-9702

Spark Plug Wire Puller

Amphenol Pin Tool Set

Sensor Gap Gauge Tool

Grounded design reduces the chances of shocking.

Set contains 1 each of 553-2697 (Insertion), 553-2698 (Pin

Removal) and 553-2699 (Socket Removal)

Used to set the timer-base air gap on 1973-1978 OMC 3 and 4

cylinder

554-9706 Amp Pin Removal Tool with

Used to remove the connector pins in the ignition system on

Chrysler/Force engines using the Prestolite type ignitions.

Also

911-9783

912-9708

991-9705 Dielectric

511-6996

Bullet Connector Kit

Marine Terminal Kit

Use

Remote Starter For OMC

Contains 10 pieces each of the male, female and sleeves.

Contains 100+ pieces of hard to find terminals and heat shrink. keep

Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits

511-7900

most

519-LB85

Remote Starter for Mercury

Load Bank

OMC 1969

Used to replace the boat-side harness for engine testing, Fits

Mercury 1979

Used to load the battery when testing the battery charging output.

Optional Equipment

511-4017 OMC Optical Sensor Tester Unique handheld tester that will efficiently test the optical ignition sensor.

511-0401 CDI 2 Cylinder Ignition Tester New hand-held ignition tester generates high-voltage stator

and low voltage trigger signals to test a variety of 2 cylinder

ignition systems. Engine specific adapters are required.

Includes 511-0402, 511-0403 and 511-0404 adapters.

520-ST84 Ferret Ultra Bright Timing Light Ultra bright timing light is visible in bright sunlight. Also has

a built-in tachometer for 2 and 4 stroke engines. This feature

is a valuable diagnostic tool when troubleshooting ignition system problems.

3

Tricks to Testing with Minimal Test Equipment

All Engines

Please keep detailed records when you repair an engine. If an engine comes in with one cylinder not firing, mark which one on the work order/history.

Intermittent Firing: This problem can be very hard to isolate. A good inductive tachometer can be used to compare the RPM on all cylinders up through WOT (wide-open throttle). A significant difference in the RPM readings can help pinpoint a problem quickly.

Visually Check the Stator, Trigger, Rectifier/Regulator and Flywheel: Cracks, burned areas and bubbles in or on the components indicate a problem. If the battery charge windings on the stator are dark brown, black or burned on most or all of the posts, the rectifier/regulator is likely shorted as well. Any sign of rubbing on the outside of the stator indicates a problem in the upper or lower main bearings. A cracked trigger or outer charging magnets can cause many problems ranging from misfiring to no fire at all. Loose flywheel magnets can be dangerous, check the tightness of the bonding adhesive.

Rectifier/Regulators can cause problems ranging from a high-speed miss to a total shutdown. An easy check is to disconnect the stator leads to the rectifier (Make sure to insulate them) and retest. If the problem is gone – replace the rectifier/regulator.

Johnson/Evinrude

Open Timer Bases: When all cylinders fire with the spark plugs out, but will not with them installed, try re-gapping

the sensors using P/N: 553-9702 Gap Gauge. (See the section on OMC ADI Ignitions page 22-24).

Engines with S.L.O.W. Features: If the customer is complaining that the engine won’t rev up and shakes real bad, the S.L.O.W. function could be activating. If the engine is NOT overheating, a temperature sensor or VRO sensor failing early can cause this problem. Disconnect the TAN wires at the power pack and retest. If the engine performs normally, reconnect the tan wires one at a time until the problem recurs, then replace the last sensor you connected.

Make sure that all of the TAN wires are located as far as possible from the spark plug wires. Also check the blocking diode in the engine harness.

Mercury 6 Cylinder Engines with ADI Ignitions

If more than one cylinder is not firing: Replace BOTH switch boxes unless you can pin the problem down to the trigger. Replacing just one switch box can result in damage to the engine if the remaining switch box on the engine has a problem in the bias circuit.

Always check the bias circuit: Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and check the resistance from the White/Black terminal on each switch box to engine ground. You should read 12-15,000 ohms on stock switch boxes, and 9,000-9,800 ohms on racing switch boxes. MAKE SURE THE READING IS THE SAME

ON BOTH SWITCH BOXES! Any problem with the bias circuit and BOTH switch boxes must be replaced as a set.

No Fire on 1, 3, 5 or 2, 4, 6: Swap the stator leads from one switch box to the other. If the problem moves, replace the stator. If the problem remains on the same cylinders, replace the switch box. If the stator is replaced and the problem is still present, try another flywheel.

No Fire on One Cylinder: This can be caused by a defective blocking diode in the other switch box. Disconnect the White/Black jumper between the switch boxes and retest. If all cylinders are now firing, replace the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. To verify this condition, swap the trigger leads on the switch box that was originally firing all three cylinders. If the misfire moves to another cylinder, the switch box is bad.

4

Voltage Drop Measurement

Start by using a good digital auto-ranging voltmeter capable of reading 1/10 th

of a volt. The use of an auto-ranging meter will allow for more accurate testing without damaging the meter due to an incorrect range setting.

Remove the spark plug wires form the spark plugs and connect them to a spark gap tester and remove the emergency stop clip as well. This prevents the engine from starting and also reduces the chance of getting shocked by the ignition system.

The use of an ohmmeter to test a conductor or switch contact for their condition is not the best tool to use. In most cases, it is preferable to use a volt drop test to make sure the conductor, as well as the connection, is in good condition.

Before testing, remove and clean all battery cables and connection points.

Testing the Positive Battery Cable to the Engine

1. Select the DC Volts position on the meter.

2. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the positive battery POST.

3. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the starter solenoid terminal where the positive battery cable is connected.

4. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V indicates a bad cable or bad connection.

(a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad.

(b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Black lead on the meter to the positive battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

Service Note: A bad power connection to the ignition or battery charging system can be found by connecting the

Black lead on the meter to the power connection of the ignition system or charging system; then working your way back to the battery positive post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.

Testing the Negative Battery Cable to the Engine

1. Select the DC Volts position on the meter.

2. Connect the Black (Negative) lead on the meter to the negative battery POST.

3. Connect the Red (Positive) lead on the meter to the engine block where the negative battery cable is connected.

4. Using a remote start switch, activate the starter solenoid to spin the engine and observe the reading on the meter. A reading above 0.6V is an indicator of a bad cable or bad connection.

(a) If the meter reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the engine block and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable connection is bad.

(b) If the meter still reads above 0.6V, move the Red lead on the meter to the negative battery cable terminal on the battery and retest. If the reading drops to below 0.6V, the cable is bad or undersized.

A bad ground connection to the ignition and battery charging system can be found by connecting the Red lead on the meter to the ground connection of the ignition or battery charging system; then working your way back to the battery negative post. At no time should you see a reading above 1V.

Johnson/Evinrude Model to Year Identification for 1980 and newer Engines

“INTRODUCES”

I N T R O D U C E S

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

Example: J150TTLCE would be a 1989 150 HP Johnson and aE175STEU would be a 1997 175 HP

Evinruide.

5

Engine Wiring Cross Reference Chart for Most Outboards

Circuit

Mercury

PRE- 1978

Mercury

1978 & UP

OMC Yamaha

Force

PRE- 1994

Force

1994 & UP

Suzuki

Power

Ign Switch

White Purple Purple Yellow Blue Red/Blue Gray

Eng Gnd

Black Black Black Black Black Black Black

Kill Circuit

Orange

Salmon

White

Blk/Yellow Blk/Yellow White White Blk/Yellow

Green

Red

Blue

Eng Start

Yellow Yellow/Red Brown Yellow Yellow/Red

Brown

Yellow/Red

Tach

Battery

Charge

Yellow/Red

Yellow

Yellow/Blk

Yellow

Yellow/Gry

Yellow

Yellow/Red

Stator CDI

Power

Choke

Red

White

Blue(a)

Blue

Blue/White

Red

Red/White

Green/Wht

Wht/Green

Brown

Brown/Yel

Brown/Blk

Brown/Wht

Blue

Brown

Blue

Yellow

Red Brown/Blue

Blk/Red Brown/Yel

Blue

Blue/White

Red

Red/White

Green/Wht

Wht/Green

Green

Black/Red

Gray

Blue

Yellow/Blk Purple/Wht Blue Green Yellow/Blk Orange

Overheat

Eng Temp

(b)

White/Blk

(c)

Pink Orange Tan Green/Yel

(a) Ignition Driver systems only, all others were battery driven systems.

(b) The stripe color on the Tan wire indicates the temperature at which the sensor trips.

(c) The White/Black wire is the cold engine temp indicator and shorts to Gnd at approx 105 deg F.

Blk = Black

Yel = Yellow

Wht = White

Blk = Black

Gry = Gray

6

ABYC Recommended Boat Wiring Color Codes

Color Function Comments

Yellow/Red Stripe (YR)

Brown/Yellow Stripe (BY)

Yellow Stripe (Y)

Dark Gray (Gy)

Dark Gray (Gy)

Brown (Br)

Orange (O)

Purple (Pu)

Dark Blue

Light Blue (Lt Bl)

Tan

Pink (Pk)

Green/White Stripe

Blue/White Stripe

Engine Start Circuit

Bilge Blower

Bilge Blower

Navigation Lights

Tachometer

Alternate color is Yellow (Y)

If used for DC negative, blower MUST be

Brown/Yellow Stripe.

Fuse or Switch to lights

Generator/Alternator

Charge Indicator Lights, Fuse or switch to pumps.

Accessory Power

Ammeter to alternator output and accessory fuse or switches. Distribution Panel accessory switch.

Ignition Instrument power

Ignition switch to coil and electrical instruments , Distribution Panel to electric instruments.

Cabin and instrument lights

Oil Pressure

Water Pressure

Fuel Gauge

Tilt/Trim down or in

Tilt/Trim up or out

Fuse or switch to lights.

Oil sender to gauge.

Temperature sender to gauge.

Fuel sender to gauge.

Tilt and Trim circuits

Tilt and Trim circuits

7

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Battery CD Ignitions with Points

DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW

MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION!

1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.

2. Check wiring as follows:

Pack Wire Color

Red or Purple

Function

12V from key-switch

Blue

Black/White

Positive to ignition coil points

Engine Wiring Connections for Testing Ignition Module

3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ½”.

When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.

4. Check voltage present on the purple wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.

5. Check DVA voltage on the blue wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking.

6. Disconnect the white/black points wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. The unit should spark each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good.

Check the points, points plate and grounding wire for the points.

7. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”. Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the white/black points wire against engine ground. Only the #1 spark plug wire should spark. If another spark plug wire has spark, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

8. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

21

Johnson/Evinrude

Prestolite Battery Ignitions with Pickup Sensors

DUE TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BATTERIES, NEITHER MAINTAINENCE FREE NOR LOW

MAINTAINENCE BATTERIES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THIS APPLICATION!

1. Clean all battery connections and engine grounds.

2. Check wiring as follows:

Pack Wire Color

Red or Purple

Blue

Except

Function Pack

12V from keyswitch

Positive to ignition coil

Red or Purple

Green

12V from keyswitch

Positive to ignition coil

Black/White (2)

Black

Green/Black*

To trigger sensor

Ground

Anti-reverse

* Some engines had this wire on the sensor plate.

Blue (2)

Green/Black*

To trigger sensor

Engine

Spring

3. Connect a spark gap tester to the high tension lead coming from the ignition coil and set it to approximately ½”.

When you crank the engine over, if it sparks while the spark gap tester is connected to the coil and does not spark through the spark plug wires – there is a problem in the distributor cap, rotor button or spark plug wires.

4. Check voltage present on the Purple (or Red) wire at cranking. It MUST be at least 9½ volts. If not, there is a problem in the harness, key switch, starter or battery.

5. Check DVA voltage on the Blue (or Green) wire going to the coil, it should be approximately 200 volts at cranking.

6. Disconnect the sensor wires. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor wires together. The unit should fire each time. If it does, this usually means the CD module is good. Check the sensor and sensor air gap.

7. Make sure the triggering ring is the correct one for the type ignition being used. Phase II ignitions require the sensor with wide gaps between the lobes.

Phase One Rotor Phase Two Rotor

8. Reset the sensor air gap to 0.020 in. If this allows the pack to fire, leave the gap at that setting.

9. Connect a spark gap tester to the high-tension leads coming from the distributor cap and set the gap to approximately 7/16”.

Align the rotor with #1 spark plug wire. Turn the ignition switch on and strike the sensor’s wires together. Only the #1 spark plug wire should fire. If any of the other spark plug wires have fire, there is a problem in the distributor cap. Repeat the test for the other cylinders.

10. Check the battery voltage at approximately 3500-RPM, MAXIMUM reading allowable is 16 volts. Over 16 volts will damage the ignition. Check for loose connections or a bad battery.

22

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1972-1978

(With screw terminal type power packs)

Two Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON EITHER CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultcheck the key switch, harness and shift switch.

2. Check the stator resistance. You should read approximately 500 ohms from the brown wire to engine ground.

3. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack).

4. Check the timer base’s resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics 133-0875K1). Note: The original factory specifications was 8-14 ohms, this was changed around the mid 1970’s in response to the change in SCR’s triggering requirements.

5. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the black/white wire to the white/black (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet.

1. Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensor and the nut located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base.

2. Slide the sensor in toward the crankshaft approximately 0.005” at a time.

3. Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent.

4. Install the flywheel according to the service manual and crank the engine over.

5. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face.

6. If the ignition fired, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV.

7. If still no fire, slide the sensor in another 0.005” and repeat steps c through f.

6. Check the DVA voltage on each trigger wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the black/white wire and the white/black wire to engine ground (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in it’s internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire).

7. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this. Extremely rare causes include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.

Three Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

Note: If the ignition only sparks with the spark plugs out, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.

1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultcheck the key switch, harness and shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now sparks, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator resistance. Reading should be about 500 ohms from the brown wire to brown/yellow wire.

4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).

5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).

6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure outlined below. a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base and slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws. b) Coat the face of the sensor with machinists bluing or equivalent and install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the sensor face. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005” and repeat steps C, D and E. c) If the ignition has spark, finger tight the nut on the outside of the heat shield and coat it with RTV. d) If still no spark, replace the sensor.

23

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1972-1978

(Three Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs, continued)

7. Check the DVA voltage on the black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (A thin spot in the insulation on one wire).

8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. Check the timer base resistance from the black/white wire to the white/black wires. Reading should be 10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases) .

2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more is needed from the black/white wire to the white/black wires (while connected to the pack) to fire the pack.

3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Four Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

(Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is either weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.)

1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engines' ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.

4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).

5. Check the timer base resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire.

Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).

6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 sensor wire to the

#3 sensor wire, and from the #2 sensor wire to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure: a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base. b) Slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws. c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent. d) Install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn. e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005” and repeat steps c, d and e. f) If the ignition fired, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV. g) If still no fire, replace the sensor.

7. Check the DVA voltage on each black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).

8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

24

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1972-1978

Four Cylinder Engines with screw terminal type power packs (Continued)

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE BANK:

1. Check the timer base’s resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire.

Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).

2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to have spark. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a sensor

gap gauge or use the procedure outlined in the previous page.

3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and connect a load resistor to that terminal. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Six Cylinder Engines

Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is likely weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault, check the key switch, harness and shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.

4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack) on each bank.

5. Check the timer base’s resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be

10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).

6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.

7. Check the DVA voltage on the white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the white terminal on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).

8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be

10-20 ohms (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).

2. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.

3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

25

1.

2.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1978-2006

Two Stroke/Except Direct Injected Engines

Two Cylinder Engines

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.

2. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color wire

Black/White wire White/Black wire

Resistance

15-42

DVA Reading

0.6V or more Connected

Some engines use the following wiring on the trigger:

White wire Blue wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected

White wire Green wire 15-42 0.6V or more Connected

3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

4. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the readings are low, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coils and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

Either a faulty power pack or ignition coil normally causes this problem. Rare cases include a weak trigger magnet in the flywheel or a timer base.

WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 3000 RPM:

Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 volts. A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent will normally be caused by a bad stator. A drop on only one orange wire will normally be the power pack.

Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.

Engines with S.L.O.W.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

4. Check the stator resistance. If it reads approximately 900 ohms, replace it with the 500 ohm design.

Three Cylinder Engines

(Except Quick Start Models)

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-check the key switch, harness and shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading wire wire Purple

White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading wire

White wire Blue wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected

White wire Green wire 38-42 0.6V or more Connected

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

26

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions 1978-2006

(Three Cylinder Engines Continued…)

Models with S.L.O.W.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Three Cylinder Engines

(Quick Start Models)

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading

Brown wire

Orange wire

White wire

White wire

White wire

Brown/Yellow wire

Orange/Black wire

Purple

Blue wire

Green wire

450-550

450-550**

150V or more Connected

150V or more Connected

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil.

^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire to the other wires.

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color

Brown wire Brown/Yellow wire

Orange wire Orange/Black wire

White wire Purple

Resistance

450-550

DVA Reading

150V or more Connected

450-550** 150V or more Connected

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

White wire Blue wire

White wire Green wire

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

1.1M-2.4M ^^ 0.6V or more Connected

** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 or a 100 ohms power coil.

^^ This reading will vary according to the meter used. Do a comparison reading and if there is a difference of over 10%, replace the timer base. Typically, use the Red meter lead to the White wire and the Black wire to the other wires.

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

27

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1978-2006

Four Cylinder Engines (Except Quick Start Models)

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading wire

White wire

White wire

Blue wire

Green wire

38-42

38-42

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

5. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER OR ONE BANK:

1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for both banks:

Wire Color

Brown

White wire

White wire

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow

Blue wire

Green wire

Resistance

450-550

38-42

38-42

DVA Reading

150V more

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected

Connected

NOTE: Also check the DVA readings to engine ground from each brown wire and compare the readings. If one wire reads low while connected to the pack, swap the connections and see if the low reading stays on the same stator wire. If it does, the stator is bad.

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting

Alternator Driven CD Ignitions

1978-2006

Four Cylinder Engines (Quick Start Models)

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wire and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading

Brown wire

Orange wire

Brown/Yellow wire

Orange/Black wire

950-1100

93-100**

150V or more Connected

150V or more Connected

0.6V Connected wire 35-55 Connected

White wire

White

White wire

White wire

Green wire

Pink

Purple/White

Blue/White

35-55

35-55

115-125

115-125

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

1.6V or more Connected

1.6V or more Connected

White wire

White wire

Green/White

Pink/White

** NOTE: Some engines use a 50 ohm power coil.

115-125

115-125

1.6V or more Connected

1.6V or more Connected

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:

1. Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading

White wire

White wire

Green wire

Pink

35-55

0.6V Connected

35-55

35-55

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

Connected

28

2. Disconnect the white/black temperature wire and retest. If all cylinders now fire, replace the timer base.

3. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM:

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

Six Cylinder Engines

Without Quick Start

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow stop wires and retest. If the engine's ignition has spark, the stop circuit has a faultpossibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly.

3. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the rectifier.

4. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel for damage and tight fit.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:

1. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color

Brown wire

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow wire

Resistance

450-550 (9 amp)

DVA Reading

150V or more Connected

Brown wire

White

White wire

Brown/Yellow wire

Purple

Blue

Green wire

900-1100 (35 amp)

15-42(a)

15-42(a)

0.6V

150V or more Connected

0.6V or more Connected more

0.6V or more Connected

(a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the

DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if the insulation is breaking down while the engine is running.

2. Check the DVA voltage to engine ground on the White Timer-Base wire while it is connected to the pack. You should see approximately the same reading as you do between the Brown & Brown/Yellow wires for that bank.

A low reading usually indicates a bad Timer-Base.

3. Disconnect the Black/Yellow stop wire from one of the packs and retest. If the bank that had no fire now has spark, the pack that was appearing to fire correctly is faulty.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.

2. Check the Timer Base resistance and DVA output as given below for each cylinder:

Wire Color Check to Wire Color Resistance DVA Reading

White wire

White

White wire wire

Purple wire wire

Green wire

15-42(a)

15-42(a)

15-42(a)

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V more

0.6V or more Connected

(a) Use a comparison reading as the values for different years used different coils in the Timer-Base. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all three tests and the correct output with the

DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good.

3. Inspect the ignition coil for burned or discolored areas indicating arcing.

4. Swap the ignition coil with one that is sparking correctly.

5. Banks with the power packs and see if the problem moves. If fit does, replace the power pack. If not, replace the

Timer-Base.

29

Six Cylinder Engines

Quick Start Models

Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color

Brown wire

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow wire

Resistance

900-1100 (35 amp)

DVA Reading

150V or more Connected

Orange/Black

Orange

White wire

White

Purple wire

Blue

(a)

(a)

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

White wire

White wire

White wire

White wire

Green wire

Purple wire 2

Blue wire 2

Green wire 2 nd nd nd connector

(a) 0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

0.6V Connected

0.6V Connected

White wire Black/White wire 2 nd connector

(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is

1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the timer base’s resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:

1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM :

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the

VRO or sensor.

30

Eight Cylinder Engines

Quick Start Models

Note: These engines usually have a 35 Amp battery charging capacity. Due to the size and weight of the flywheel magnets, it is highly recommended that you check to make sure both the triggering and charge magnets are still secure in the flywheel before you service the engine. A loose or broken magnet can be deadly to you or your pocketbook. It is a recommended you index the flywheel and check the timing on all cylinders when servicing these engines. Also check for static firing and intermittent spark.

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine's ignition now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.

2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

3. Check the stator and trigger resistance and DVA output as given below for each bank:

Wire Color

Brown wire

Check to Wire Color

Brown/Yellow wire

Resistance

900-1100 (35 amp)

DVA Reading

150V or more Connected

Orange/Black

Orange

White wire

White

Purple wire

Blue

(a)

(a)

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

White wire

White

White wire

White wire

White wire

White wire

White wire

Green wire

Pink

Purple wire 2 nd

Blue wire 2 nd

Green wire 2

Pink wire 2 nd nd

Black/White wire 2 nd

(a)

(a) connector

0.6V or more Connected

0.6V

0.6V

0.6V

0.6V

Connected

Connected

Connected

Connected

(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is

1M to 5M ohms. As long as you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the Timer-Base should be good. The exception would be if one of the scr’s inside the Timer-Base is breaking down while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.

4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

NO SPARK ON ONE CYLINDER:

1. Check the timer base’s resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 130V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack or Timer-Base.

NO SPARK ON ONE BANK:

1. Check the stator resistance and output (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).

2. Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the orange wires from the ignition coil for that bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

ENGINE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 2500 RPM :

1. Use a temperature probe and verify that the engine is not overheating.

2. Disconnect the tan temperature wire from the pack and retest. If the engine now performs properly, replace the temperature switch.

3. Make sure the tan temperature switch wire is not located next to a spark plug wire.

4. Disconnect the VRO sensor from the engine harness and retest. If the engine performs correctly, replace the

VRO or sensor.

31

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60

° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)

Carbureted 1991-2006 Model Years

Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coils to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the

electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The

OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10

° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105

° F and the

Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics

(blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to exit QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The CDI power pack also will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (4 cylinder) is installed by mistake. At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack. Therefore, battery voltage supplied via the yellow/red striped start wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires – these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs should be the factory recommended

QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise.

CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921.

A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4

°-6° ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19

° - 20° BTDC

(Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you will need the 511-4017 Timing

Tool or the OEM version to set the timing for idle and WOT. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and s pecial timing curves.

Additional items to be aware of:

1. Early 150 and 175 HP engines did not have the tension washer on top of the sensor encoder wheel. This washer is required to keep the encoder locked in place. If it is missing, be sure to install the correct washer.

2. 1991 and 1992 engines did not have a shift interrupter switch. This resulted in hard shifting and required a conversion to resolve this problem.

3. The shift interrupter switch killed the fire on the starboard bank of cylinders from 1993 thru mid 1990’s. By

1998, a change was made for the shift interrupter switch to kill the fire on the Port bank.

4. 1991 through late 1990’s engines occasionally developed a crack in the water jacket allowing water into the intake at high speed. This typically resulted in # 1 cylinder ingesting water. You can usually see signs of this because the head looks like it has been steam cleaned inside the combustion chamber.

5. 1991 and 1992 engines came out with a Black sleeved power pack (P/N 584122) and stator (P/N 584109) and used a P/N 584265 sensor. In 1993 the power packs were changed to a Gray sleeve (Production) power pack (P/N 584910). The stator was changed to a Gray sleeve (P/N 584981) and the sensor was changed to

P/N 584914. Engines with ignition problems had a service replacement power pack with a blue sleeve and a replacement sensor installed as a set. The Blue sleeved power pack was only available as a service replacement. The Gray sleeved stator could be used with all of the power packs, but the Black sleeved stator was to be used only with a Black sleeved power pack. The sensor P/N changed to 586343 in the late

1990’s.

32

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60

° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)

1991-2006 Model Years

(Continued)

6. Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it.

7. The Gray inductive spark plug wires replaced the Black copper spark plug wires that were used on the early

1990’s engines.

8. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance.

NO FIRE AT ALL:

1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.

2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).

3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.

4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.

5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground.

6. Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.

7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.

8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.

(This area is the most common breakout location)

9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.

10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.

11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows:

Lead

Orange Orange/Black 50-60 ohms 12 V or more ohms

Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking.

Brown/Yellow

Brown/White Brown/Black

Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used.

12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows:

Engine

Orange

Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more

Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad.

13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows:

Lead

Orange/Red

Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more

WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor.

33

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60

° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)

1991-2006 Model Years

(Continued)

14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine. See chart below.

133-6343 Optical Sensor

LED Ret.

Power

Ground

Sync

Cyl

C

D

E

A

B

Scope

10º Dwell

Sync

Cyl

C0

Offset for

Anti-Reverse

Detection

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

a. Led Power – Black/Orange b. Power – Orange Red c. Ground – Black d. Sync – White/Blue Stripe e. Cyl – White/Green

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders:

1. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the resistance and DVA voltage for the bank without spark on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows:

Red Lead

Brown

Black Lead Ohms Resistance DVA

450-600 +

Bank/Cyl

(1,3,5)

NOTE: If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.

2. Disconnect the 5-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow or Black/Orange wire is shorted to engine ground. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is located in the circuit where there is no spark.

Stator To Power Pack Connections

Note: Starboard Browns power Port Bank

Power Coil:

45 to 65 Ohms

Charge Coils:

495 to 605 Ohms

Odd Cylinder

Charge Coil

Even Cylinder

Charge Coil

C B

E F G

C B A

D E F

Charge Coils:

150V Cranking

400V Idling

Power Coil:

12V Cranking

18V Idling

With Pack Connected using CDI 511-9773

Peak DVA Adapter

6 Pin Connector

a) Brown/Black b) Orange/Black c) Brown/Yellow d) Brown e) Orange f) Brown/White

Power

Coil

34

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60

° 6 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)

1991-2006 Model Years

(Continued)

High Speed Miss:

1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to

Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason.

2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows:

Red

Brown

NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.

3. Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.

Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated:

Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows:

Red Lead

Orange

Black Lead

Orange/Black

DVA

11-24V

NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts

(voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.

Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):

1.

2.

Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.

Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

3.

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.)

Disconnect the temperature sensors and see if the engine performs normally. If it does, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one.

4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.

Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time:

Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.

35

Troubleshooting the Johnson/Evinrude 60

° 4 Cylinder Ignition (OIS 2000)

Carbureted 1995-2006 Model Years

Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude QuickStart ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the QuickStart and rev limiter circuits. They require a timer base for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the timer base. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coil to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the

electronics, both inside the power pack and inside the sensor. The other QuickStart models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The

OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and fire the coils beyond cranking speed. The optical sensor located on the top is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to fire if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. QuickStart (a 10

° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100, the engine temperature is below 105

° F and the

Yellow/Red wire from the starter solenoid is not feeding 12V DC to the power pack all of the time. QuickStart will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. CDI Electronics

(blue case with red sleeve) power packs have a built-in feature to compensate for a shorted cold sensor, allowing the engine to come out of QuickStart after 5 minutes of running time regardless of the condition of the cold sensor. The

CDI power pack will not fire if the wrong encoder wheel (6 cylinder) is installed by mistake.

At cranking speed the voltage from the stator may not be enough to operate the circuits inside the power pack, therefore there is battery voltage supplied from the starter solenoid via the yellow/red striped wire. The extra voltage is needed in order for the optical sensor to operate correctly as low voltage from the battery and/or stator can cause intermittent or no fire at all. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive resistor wires – these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs have to be the factory recommended QL78YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. CDI Electronics has the spark plug wires available as a set, P/N: 931-4921.

A breakthrough at CDI Electronics has allowed the use of microprocessor digital control circuits to handle the timing, QuickStart, S.L.O.W., rev limiter and data logging inside the power pack. This allows the timing to be set using a timing light, remote starter, spark gap tester, piston stop tool and a jumper wire. With these new digital power packs, you disconnect the port temperature switch/sensor leads and use a jumper wire to short the tan temperature sensor wire to engine ground. Once you have verified the timing pointer using a piston stop tool (Or a dial indicator), connect all spark plug wires to a spark gap tester, connect a remote starter to the engine and a timing light to # 1 spark plug wire. When you crank the engine over with the remote starter and check the timing, you should see the timing is set to approximately 4

°-6° ATDC (After Top Dead Center). By advancing the throttle all the way and rechecking the timing for WOT (Wide Open Throttle), you should see approximately 19

° - 21° BTDC

(Before Top Dead Center) Without this timing feature built into the power pack, you would not be able to easily set the timing for idle or WOT without a optical diagnostic tool. Additional advantages offered by the digital circuitry include the ability to compensate for a bad temperature switch, a smoother rev limit, customized rev limiters and s pecial timing curves.

Additional items to be aware of:

1. Some engines do not have the RFI/MFI noise shield between the ignition coils and the power pack. If it is missing, replace it.

2. Originally the spark plugs were the QL82YC, but that recommendation was changed to the QL78YC for improved performance.

NO FIRE AT ALL:

1. Check the kill lanyard and key-switch position.

2. Verify the engine rotation (The engine needs to be turning in a clockwise direction).

3. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness.

4. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders.

5. Disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for spark. If the engine has spark, check the boat side harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground.

6. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the

CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wires are shorted to engine ground.

7. Check the battery voltage on the Yellow/Red striped wire while cranking the engine. If below 11 volts, charge the battery or check all battery cables.

8. Remove the sensor wheel and check for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap.

36

(This area is the most common breakout location)

9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur.

10. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier and retest. If the engine now has spark, replace the regulator/rectifier.

11. Using the Piercing Probes, check the resistance, then check the DVA voltage on the 6 pin stator connector while connected as follows:

Red

Orange

Brown

Orange/Black

Brown/Yellow

50-60 ohms

450-600 ohms

12 V or more

150V

Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking.

Service note: It is recommended that liquid neoprene be applied to the areas where the piercing probes were used.

12. If all the tests so far show good readings, check the DVA output from the power pack on the primary coil wires as follows:

Red

Engine

Orange/Green Engine Ground 130 V or more

Note: If the DVA values are below these specifications, the power pack or sensor is likely bad.

13. Check the DVA voltage on the Black/Orange and Orange/Red sensors leads as follows:

Lead

Orange/Red

Black/Orange Engine Ground 12 V or more

WARNING!! The Black/Orange wire should NEVER be shorted to engine ground as this will damage the sensor.

14. If an oscilloscope is available, check the white/blue (crank position signal) and white/green (cylinder position signal) sensor wires while connected to the sensor. With the engine cranking over, you should see a square toothed pattern on both wires. The white/blue wire should show 1 pulse per revolution and the white/green should show 7 pulses per revolution of the engine. See chart below.

133-6343 Optical Sensor

LED Ret.

Power

Ground

Sync

Cyl

C

D

E

A

B

Scope

10º Dwell

Sync

Cyl

C0

Offset for

Anti-Reverse

Detection

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

f. Led Power – Black/Orange g. Power – Orange Red h. Ground – Black i. Sync – White/Blue Stripe j. Cyl – White/Green

37

No Spark on One Bank of Cylinders:

1. If the power pack has no spark on one bank and the readings are good, replace the power pack.

2. Disconnect the 4-pin connector on the port side of the power pack and see if the spark returns. If it does, use the CDI meter set to Ohms and see if the Black/Yellow wire is shorted to engine ground.

3. Check to see if the Shift Interrupter switch is shorted.

Port 4 Pin Connector Starboard 4 Pin Connector

a) Black/Yellow a) Brown b) Tan c) White/Black d) Yellow/Red

High Speed Miss:

1. If the engine runs fine until you get above 4900 RPM and then starts missing, check the Orange to

Orange/Black power coil wires with an oscilloscope (If available) or replace the pack. A breakdown inside the pack could cause RFI noise to activate the rev limiter for no apparent reason.

2. Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage at the RPM where the problem is occurring while connected as follows:

Red Lead Black Lead DVA

NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 400 volts (voltage exceeding 400 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator charge coil.

3. Connect an inductive tachometer to the spark plug wires one at a time and compare the readings. If most of the cylinders show the same reading and one or two show different readings, check the primary wires with the inductive pickup to see if the readings are the same coming out of the power pack. A difference in readings between the primary and secondary coil wires usually indicate a bad coil or bad ignition wires. No difference indicates a bad power pack.

Will Not Rev Above Idle Speed or Only Has Spark as Long as the Starter Solenoid is Activated:

Using the Piercing Probes and DVA adapter, check the DVA voltage while connected as follows:

Red Lead Black Lead DVA

Orange

NOTE: The readings should rapidly increase as the engine RPM increases and stabilize below 24 volts

(voltage exceeding 24 V DVA indicates a bad pack). A sharp drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent usually indicates a bad stator winding. A sharp drop in voltage when you let off of the starter solenoid indicates a bad power coil on the stator.

Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):

1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.

2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.

38

(Unacceptable routing for the temp wire.)

3. Verify the engine is not overheating and disconnect the Tan temperature sensor wire. If the engine performs normally, check both temperature sensors and replace the defective one.

4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.

Engine stays in QuickStart All of the Time:

Check the Yellow/Red wire for 12 volts while the engine is running. You should only see voltage on this wire while the starter solenoid is engaged.

39

CDI ELECTRONICS

(DVA) PEAK READING VOLTAGE AND RESISTANCE CHARTS

NOTICE: These charts were compiled using the CDI 511-9773 Peak Adapter with a shielded Digital Multimeter.

NOTE: The resistance readings are given for a room temperature of 68

°F.

Higher temperatures will cause a slightly higher resistance reading.

DVA readings should always be taken with everything hooked up with the exception of the kill circuit.

The CDI peak reading voltage adapter is specifically designed to work with shielded Digital Multimeters. This adapter will simplify the testing of electronic ignition systems, stators, sensors and charging systems. The DVA readings will be approximately the same as any other DVA meter and the specifications listed in the service manuals can be followed without problems (Hopefully a little easier to you).

The CDI piercing probe set (511-9770) and the pack load resister (511-9775) are highly recommended for use with this adapter.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Plug the adapter into the shielded Digital Multimeter with the (+) rib side pin in the (V, Ohms) jack and the other pin in the (COM) jack.

2. Set the digital voltmeter to DC Volts (the purpose of the adapter is to convert and store the voltage so that it can be read by a meter).

3. Connect the probes to the component to be measured.

NOTE: The adapter will automatically compensate for polarity and all readings will be peak voltage.

See the following pages for readings of Chrysler, Force, Mercury, OMC

(Johnson/Evinrude), OMC Sea Drive and Yamaha engines. Other ignitions can be tested using test results given by the manufacturer of the equipment or by comparing a known good system to a suspect one. Please forward any additional readings you would like to have included in future printings.

“Big enough to do the job, small enough to care”

• Tech Support 866-423-4832 • Fax 256-772-5701 • www.rapair.com

61

Johnson & Evinrude Outboard

DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Chart

65 COM

Man Start

1989-

1992

65 COM

70

70

80

85 - 140

85

85

88

90

90 - 115

OPTICAL

100

1992-

1995

1979-

1988

1989-

1997

1992-

1996

1973-

1977

1979-

1983

1991-

1995

1987-

1996

1984-

1997

1995-

2006

1990-

1994

4-55

4-60

4-55

4-55

5-60

5-60

25-35

Elect Start

1971-

1977

1978-

1988

1989-

1993

1989-

1993

1992-

2000

1992-

2005

1995-

1997

25-35

Man Start

60

60

1995-

1997

1986-

1989

1989-

1992

Part

Number

Power Pack

2

CD2 - USL

CDI Elect-

USL Repl*

CD2

W/SLOW

CD2 SL

CD3

OPTICAL

CD3

OPTICAL

CD3

W/SLOW

60

65 - 70

65

1993-

2000

1972-

1978

CD3 Looper

Power Pack

3

65 1989

CD3

W/SLOW

1992-

1995

65

COMM

1984-

1988

65 COM

Elect Start

1989-

1992

CD3

W/SLOW

CD3

W/SLOW

CD3

W/SLOW

Power Pack

4

Chg Power

Ohms Reading

450-600 N/A

450-950

500-700

720-880 52-62 150V+ 12V+

1010-

1230

450-600

500-700

450-600

500-700

500-700

450-700

N/A

Chg

Stator

Power

DVA Output

Chg

Read

150V+ N/A Brown to Engine Gnd

150V+ N/A

450-600 150V+ 12-24V

76-92 150V+ 12V+

90-100

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

450-600

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

90-100

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

450-600

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

450-600

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

450-600

40-50*

150V+ 12V+

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/Yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Power DVA

Trigger

Reading

Color Ohm Out

N/A 10-20 0.5V+

Colors

White/Black to

Black/White

White/Black to

Black/White

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

N/A

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

35-55 0.5V+

N/A N/A

N/A N/A

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open

35-45 0.5V+

35-45

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45

10 -

20

35-45

35-45

35-45

35-45

35-45

N/A = Not Applicable

*Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics

Sec = Secondary

Pri = Primary

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe

Blk = Black

COMM = Commercial Gnd = Ground

NOTE: Ignition Coils will read 0.2 to 1.0 ohms on the Primary and 200-400 ohms on the secondary windings

NOTICE: ALL DVA READINGS ARE TO BE TAKEN WITH ALL WIRING CONNECTED EXCEPT THE STOP CIRCUIT.

64

0.5V+

0.5V+

0.5V+

N/A

White/Black to

Black/White

White/Black to

Black/White

White/Black to

Black/White

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

0.5V+ #1 to #3 and #2 to #4

0.5V+

0.5V+

0.5V+

0.5V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

N/A N/A

0.5V+

N/A

N/A

Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn

Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Black/White to

White/Blacks

Wht to Blue/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Pk = Pink

Pur = Purple

Bl = Blue

150 - 185

10 AMP

150 - 185

35 AMP

150 - 175

10 AMP

150 - 175

35 AMP

150 - 175

OPTICAL

155

10 AMP

155

35 AMP

155

Turbojet

100

COMM

105 JET

OPTICAL

110

112

115

120-140

10 AMP

120-140

35 AMP

125

1984-

1997

1994-

2000

1986-

1989

1994-

1996

1978-

1997

1985-

1999

1985-

1994

1991-

1994

125

COMM

130

140

150 - 235

1989-

1991

1989-

1991

1992-

2005

1984-

1992

1984-

1992

1989-

1994

1994-

2000

1978-

1984

1977-

1978

1979-

1988

1984-

1988

185

200 - 235

200 - 225

200 - 225

235

250

1990-

1994

1979-

1983

1986-

1987

1988-

2000

1984-

1985

1991-

2000

275

1985-

1987

275

300

300

1988-

1989

1985-

1987

1988-

1995

Part

Number

Power Pack

3/6

Johnson & Evinrude Outboard

DVA (Peak Voltage) and Resistance Chart

Chg Power

Ohms Reading

Chg

Stator

Power

Min DVA Output

Chg

Read

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Power

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

150V+ 12V+

150V+ 12V+

150V+ 12V+

150V+ 12V+

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

N/A

N/A

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

450-600 N/A 150V+ N/A

CD3/6 450-600 N/A 150V+ N/A

Brown to Engine Gnd N/A

N/A

CD3/6 735-935 N/A 150V+ N/A

CD3/6 450-600 N/A 150V+ N/A

CD6AL 735-935 50-60

150V+ 12V+

150V+ 12V+

CD6 735-935 90-110 150V+ 12V+

150V+ 12V+

CD3/6 450-600 N/A 150V+ N/A

CD3/6 735-935 N/A 150V+ N/A

150V+ 12V+

CD3/6 735-935 N/A 150V+ N/A

150V+ 12V+

CD4/8 735-935 N/A 150V+ N/A

150V+ 12V+

CD4/8 735-935 N/A 150V+ N/A

150V+ 12V+

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

N/A

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A

Org to

Org/Blk

DVA

Trigger

Reading

Colors

35-45 0.5V+ Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

N/A N/A

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

10-20 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

N/A N/A

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

35-45 0.5V+

Open 0.5V+

N/A = Not Applicable

*Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics

Sec = Secondary

Pri = Primary

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe

Blk = Black

COMM = Commercial Gnd = Ground

NOTE: Ignition Coils will read 0.2 to 1.0 ohms on the Primary and 200-400 ohms on the secondary windings

NOTICE: ALL DVA READINGS ARE TO BE TAKEN WITH ALL WIRING CONNECTED EXCEPT THE STOP CIRCUIT.

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn/Pk

Black/White to

White/Blacks

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Pk = Pink

Pur = Purple

Bl = Blue

65

OMC Sea Drive

DVA (Peak Reading) Voltage and Resistance Chart

2.5/2.6L 'S' 1982

Part

Number

582138

113-2138*

582125

113-2125

Charge Coil Power Coil Reading

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A Wht to Bl/Grn

Pri Sec

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400 1.6L 'S'

2.6L

10AMP

1AA/2BA/2B

1983

582556 Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn 35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

2.5L

35AMP

1AA/2BA/2B

1.6L V4 'S'

2.5/2.6L V6

1.6L V4 'S'

2.5/2.6L V6

1.6L V4 'S'

2.6L V6

1.6L V4 'S'

1.8L V4 'S'

2.7L V6

3.6L V8

1.6L V4 'S'

2.0L V4 'S'

3.0L V6 'S'

1.6L V4 'S'

2.0L V4 'S'

3.0L V6 'S'

4.0L V8 'S'

1.6L V4 'S'

2.0L V4 'S'

3.0L V6 'S'

4.0L V8 'S'

1984

1984

1985

1985

1986

1986

1987

1987

1987

1987

1988

1988

1988

1989

1989

1989

1989

1990

1990

1990

1990

582138

582125

113-2125

582556

113-2556

582811

113-2811

582651

113-2651

Brown to

Brown/yellow

Brown to

Brown/yellow

735-935

450-600

150V+

150V+

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Wht to Bl/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

35-45

35-45

0.5V+

0.5V+

0.2-1.0

0.2-1.0

200-400

200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

583110

113-3110

583114

113-3114

583110

113-3110

583101

113-3101

583605

113-3605

583101

113-3101

583101

113-3101

584041

113-4041

584037

113-4037

583030

113-3030

584041

113-4041

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+ N/A N/A N/A

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Brown to

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Org to

Org/Blk

N/A N/A

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to Bl/Grn

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Brown to

Org to

Org/Blk

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

N/A N/A

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Org to

Org/Blk

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

584037

113-4037

584035

584028

113-4028

584041

113-4041

584037

113-4037

584035

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Brown to

Org to

Org/Blk

Org to

Org/Blk

Brown/yellow 450-600 150V+ N/A

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

N/A N/A

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Org to

Org/Blk

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Org to

Org/Blk

Brown to

Brown/yellow 735-935 150V+

Org to

Org/Blk

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to Bl/Pur/Grn

90-110

40-55* 12V+

Wht to

Bl/Pur/Grn/PK

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

Open 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

Open 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

Open 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

35-45 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

Open 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

Open 0.5V+ 0.2-1.0 200-400

N/A = Not Applicable

*Part Manufactured by CDI Electronics

Gnd = Ground

Bl = Blue

COMM = Commerical Blk = Black

Org/Blk = Orange/Black Stripe

Pk = Pink

Pur = Purple

Grn = Green

Org = Orange

Wht = White Pri = Primary

Sec = Secondary

66

Glossary of Terms

ADI – Alternator Driven Ignition, consists of a flywheel, stator, trigger and ignition module.

ADTC - After Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing.

BTDC - Before Top Dead Center Reference on ignition timing.

CD Ignition – Capacitive Discharge Ignition. The capacitor stores the power developed by a stator or inverter and uses a SCR to deliver the power to the ignition coil.

CDM – Capacitive Discharge Module. The CDM is a combination of the switch box and ignition coil.

Crank - Refers to the engine being turned over with the starter, not running. Spark plug wires are usually connected to a spark gap tester.

DVA – Direct Voltage Adapter. Also known as Peak voltage. The term refers to the peak voltage as read by a specialized meter or a multimeter using a adapter to convert the peak voltage in the ignition system to a DC value. Regular meters cannot read the voltages due to the frequency and duration of the pulses in the system.

Power Pack – Term used by Johnson/Evinrude for the ignition module.

RPM – Revolutions per minute. The number of times the engine rotates in one minute.

S.L.O.W. – Speed Limiting Oil Warning system. Limits the RPM of the engine to approximately 2500 RPM in order to reduce the damage to the engine caused by a no oil or overheat condition.

Spark Tester - Device used to check for spark from the ignition coil to the spark plug. Testers are normally available in 1, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder configurations.

Switch Box – Term used for Force, Mariner and Mercury ignition modules.

W.O.T. – Wide Open Throttle.

76

CDI ELECTRONICS

OUTBOARD SERVICE BULLETIN

Bulletin Rev.1

Models affected: Johnson/Evinrude 60 HP 1986 (CE) through 1994 (ER)

Johnson/Evinrude 65 HP 1987 (CU) through 1994 (ER)

Johnson/Evinrude 70 HP 1989 (CD) through 1994 (ER)

Problem:

The engine and electrical system can become damaged by overheating when air is trapped in

the upper half of the cooling system. Trapped air can cause the upper cylinder or regulator/rectifier to overheat, resulting in damage to the piston or regulator (also damaging the stator). Air can become trapped when:

1. The engine is idling with a blocked or restricted thermostat bypass hole.

2. The engine is operated in aerated water, such as a pontoon or deck boat wakes.

SOLUTION:

Relocate the water pump indicator outlet tee (for the pee tube) from the side of the engine block to the top of the engine cylinder block. This allows air to be vented from the top of the cooling system and helps ensure an adequate water level when idling.

If the engine does not have a threaded hole located in the top of the cylinder block, please follow the steps below:

1. Remove the indicator hose from the outlet tee and discard.

2. Remove the outlet tee.

3. Install a 1/8 th

inch NPT brass or aluminum pipe plug into the hole where the tee was located (use gel-seal on the threads). (See fig. 1)

4. Measure 2 inches forward from the rear corner of the exhaust manifold cover (ref “A”) and 1-3/8 th

inches from the exhaust cover gasket (Ref to “B”). Mark the intersection with a center punch. (See fig. 2).

5. Mark an 11/32 nd

(Letter “R”) drill bit ½ inch from the tip (to prevent damage to the water jacket) as a depth gauge. Grease the tip and drill a hole through the casting. The grease will help prevent shavings from entering the cooling system.

6. Grease the tip of an 1/8 th

NPT tap and thread the hole.

7. Apply gel-seal to the threads of the original tee and install it in the hole you just tapped.

Position the tee so that the indicator nipple is facing the back of the engine.

8. Install a new piece of 3/16 th

hose (19 inches long) from the tee to the indicator.

77

81

82

83

84