Below you will find brief information for motorcycle KX250F. The Kawasaki KX250F is a liquid-cooled, four-stroke motocross motorcycle with a single-cylinder engine. It features a 43mm Keihin fuel injection system, upside-down telescopic fork, and a Uni-Trak rear suspension. It's designed for high-performance off-road riding.
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KX250F
This quick reference guide will assist you in locating a desired topic or procedure.
•Bend the pages back to match the black tab of the desired chapter number with the black tab on the edge at each table of contents page.
•Refer to the sectional table of contents for the exact pages to locate the specific topic required.
KX250F
All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Quality Assurance Division/Motorcycle & Engine Company/Kawasaki
Heavy Industries, Ltd., Japan.
No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions in this publication, although every possible care has been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible.
The right is reserved to make changes at any time without prior notice and without incurring an obligation to make such changes to products manufactured previously. See your Motorcycle dealer for the latest information on product improvements incorporated after this publication.
All information contained in this publication is based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. Illustrations and photographs in this publication are intended for reference use only and may not depict actual model component parts.
© 2012 Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd.
1st Edition (0) : Mar. 30, 2012
ft g gal h
HP in.
°C cmHg cu in
DC
DFI
ECU
F
°F
A
ABDC
AC
Ah
ATDC
BBDC
BDC
BTDC
AU
BR
CA
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS
ampere(s) after bottom dead center alternating current ampere hour after top dead center before bottom dead center bottom dead center before top dead center degree(s) Celsius centimeters of mercury cubic inch(s) direct current
Digital Fuel Injection
Electronic Control Unit farad(s) degree(s) Fahrenheit foot, feet gram(s) gallon(s) hour(s) horsepower(s) inch(s)
N oz
Pa
PS psi qt r rpm s
TDC
TIR
V
W
Ω
KDS km/h
L lb
LED m min mph
Kawasaki Diagnostic System kilometers per hour liter(s) pound(s)
Light Emitting Diode meter(s) minute(s) miles per hour newton(s) ounce(s) pascal(s) horsepower pound(s) per square inch quart(s) revolution revolution(s) perminute second(s) top dead center total indicator reading volt(s) watt(s) ohm(s)
Australia
Brazil
Canada
COUNTRY AND AREA CODES
EUR
US
Europe
United States
This manual is designed primarily for use by trained mechanics in a properly equipped shop.
However, it contains enough detail and basic information to make it useful to the owner who desires to perform his own basic maintenance and repair work. A basic knowledge of mechanics, the proper use of tools, and workshop procedures must be understood in order to carry out maintenance and repair satisfactorily. Whenever the owner has insufficient experience or doubts his ability to do the work, all adjustments, maintenance, and repair should be carried out only by qualified mechanics.
In order to perform the work efficiently and to avoid costly mistakes, read the text, thoroughly familiarize yourself with the procedures before starting work, and then do the work carefully in a clean area. Whenever special tools or equipment are specified, do not use makeshift tools or equipment. Precision measurements can only be made if the proper instruments are used, and the use of substitute tools may adversely affect safe operation.
To get the longest life out of your vehicle:
•
Follow the Periodic Maintenance Chart in the
Service Manual.
•
Be alert for problems and non-scheduled maintenance.
•
Use proper tools and genuine Kawasaki Motorcycle parts.
Special tools, gauges, and testers that are necessary when servicing
Kawasaki motorcycles are introduced by the
Service Manual. Genuine parts provided as spare parts are listed in the Parts Catalog.
•
Follow the procedures in this manual carefully. Don’t take shortcuts.
•
Remember to keep complete records of maintenance and repair with dates and any new parts installed.
In this manual, the product is divided into its major systems and these systems make up the manual’s chapters. The Quick Reference
Guide shows you all of the product’s system and assists in locating their chapters.
Each chapter in turn has its own comprehensive Table of Contents.
For example, if you want stick coil information, use the Quick Reference Guide to locate the
Electrical System chapter. Then, use the Table of Contents on the first page of the chapter to find the Stick Coil section.
Whenever you see symbols, heed their instructions! Always follow safe operating and maintenance practices.
DANGER indicates a hazardous situation which, if not avoided, will result in death or serious injury.
WARNING
WARNING indicates a hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in death or serious injury.
NOTICE
NOTICE is used to address practices not related to personal injury.
This manual contains four more symbols which will help you distinguish different types of information.
NOTE
○
•
Indicates a procedural step or work to be done.
○
Indicates a procedural sub-step or how to do the work of the procedural step it follows. It also precedes the text of a NOTE.
Indicates a conditional step or what action to take based on the results of the test or inspection in the procedural step or sub-step it follows.
In most chapters an exploded view illustration of the system components follows the Table of
Contents. In these illustrations you will find the instructions indicating which parts require specified tightening torque, oil, grease or a locking agent during assembly.
Table of Contents
1
Before Servicing
Before starting to perform an inspection service or carry out a disassembly and reassembly operation on a motorcycle, read the precautions given below. To facilitate actual operations, notes, illustrations, photographs, cautions, and detailed descriptions have been included in each chapter wherever necessary. This section explains the items that require particular attention during the removal and reinstallation or disassembly and reassembly of general parts.
Especially note the following:
Lift large or heavy parts wearing gloves to prevent injury from possible sharp edges on the parts.
Use a high flash-point solvent when cleaning parts. High flash-point solvent should be used according to directions of the solvent manufacturer.
Clean the vehicle thoroughly before disassembly. Dirt or other foreign materials entering into sealed areas during vehicle disassembly can cause excessive wear and decrease performance of the vehicle.
Disassembled parts are easy to confuse. Arrange the parts according to the order the parts were disassembled and clean the parts in order prior to assembly.
Before Servicing
After all the parts including subassembly parts have been cleaned, store the parts in a clean area. Put a clean cloth or plastic sheet over the parts to protect from any foreign materials that may collect before re-assembly.
Reuse of worn or damaged parts may lead to serious accident. Visually inspect removed parts for corrosion, discoloration, or other damage. Refer to the appropriate sections of this manual for service limits on individual parts. Replace the parts if any damage has been found or if the part is beyond its service limit.
Replacement parts must be KAWASAKI genuine or recommended by KAWASAKI. Gaskets, O-rings, oil seals, grease seals, circlips, cotter pins or self-locking nuts must be replaced with new ones whenever disassembled.
In most cases assembly order is the reverse of disassembly, however, if assembly order is provided in this Service
Manual, follow the procedures given.
Generally, when installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws, start them all in their holes and tighten them to a snug fit. Then tighten them according to the specified sequence to prevent case warpage or deformation which can lead to malfunction. Conversely when loosening the bolts, nuts, or screws, first loosen all of them by about a quarter turn and then remove them. If the specified tightening sequence is not indicated, tighten the fasteners alternating diagonally.
Before Servicing
Incorrect torque applied to a bolt, nut, or screw may lead to serious damage. Tighten fasteners to the specified torque using a good quality torque wrench.
Often, the tightening sequence is followed twice-initial tightening and final tightening with torque wrench.
Use common sense during disassembly and assembly, excessive force can cause expensive or hard to repair damage. When necessary, remove screws that have a non
-permanent locking agent applied using an impact driver.
Use a plastic-faced mallet whenever tapping is necessary.
Hardening, shrinkage, or damage of both gaskets and O-rings after disassembly can reduce sealing performance.
Remove old gaskets and clean the sealing surfaces thoroughly so that no gasket material or other material remains. Install new gaskets and replace used
O-rings when re-assembling.
For applications that require Liquid Gasket or a
Non-permanent Locking Agent, clean the surfaces so that no oil residue remains before applying liquid gasket or non-permanent locking agent. Do not apply them excessively. Excessive application can clog oil passages and cause serious damage.
For items such as bearings or oil seals that must be pressed into place, apply small amount of oil to the contact area. Be sure to maintain proper alignment and use smooth movements when installing.
Before Servicing
Do not remove pressed ball or needle unless removal is absolutely necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed. Press bearings with the manufacturer and size marks facing out. Press the bearing into place by putting pressure on the correct bearing race as shown.
Pressing the incorrect race can cause pressure between the inner and outer race and result in bearing damage.
Do not remove pressed oil or grease seals unless removal is necessary. Replace with new ones whenever removed.
Press new oil seals with manufacture and size marks facing out. Make sure the seal is aligned properly when installing.
Apply specified grease to the lip of seal before installing the seal.
Replace circlips or cotter pins that were removed with new ones. Take care not to open the clip excessively when installing to prevent deformation.
It is important to lubricate rotating or sliding parts during assembly to minimize wear during initial operation. Lubrication points are called out throughout this manual, apply the specific oil or grease as specified.
Before Servicing
When rotating the crankshaft by hand, the free play amount of rotating direction will affect the adjustment. Rotate the crankshaft to positive direction (clockwise viewed from output side).
A two-color lead is identified first by the primary color and then the stripe color. Unless instructed otherwise, electrical leads must be connected to those of the same color.
Use a meter that has enough accuracy for an accurate measurement. Read the manufacture’s instructions thoroughly before using the meter. Incorrect values may lead to improper adjustments.
Model Identification
KX250ZD Left Side View
KX250ZD Right Side View
Frame Number Engine Number
General Specifications
Items
Dimensions
Overall Length
Overall Width
Overall Height
Wheelbase
Road Clearance
Seat Height
Curb Mass:
Front:
Rear:
KX250ZD
2 170 mm (85.43 in.)
820 mm (32.3 in.)
1 270 mm (50.00 in.)
1 475 mm (58.07 in.)
330 mm (13.0 in.)
945 mm (37.2 in.)
106.2 kg (234.2 lb)
(US, CA) 106.0 kg (233.7 lb)
51.7 kg (114.0 lb)
54.5 kg (120.2 lb)
(US, CA) 54.3 kg (119.7 lb)
6.1 L (1.6 US gal) Fuel Tank Capacity
Engine
Type
Cooling System
Bore and Stroke
Displacement
Compression Ratio
Fuel System
Starting System
Ignition System
Timing Advance
Ignition Timing
Spark Plug:
Standard:
Terminal
Option:
Terminal
Valve Timing:
Intake:
Open
Close
Duration
Exhaust:
Open
Close
Duration
Lubrication System
Engine Oil:
Type
Viscosity
Capacity
4-stroke, single cylinder, DOHC 4 valve
Liquid-cooled
77.0 × 53.6 mm (3.03 × 2.11 in.)
249 cm³ (15.2 cu in.)
13.8:1
FI (Fuel Injection), KEIHIN 43
Primary kick
Digital DC-CDI
Electronically advanced
BTDC 4° at 2 000 r/min (rpm)
NGK CPR8EB-9
Solid post
NGK CPR9EB-9
Solid post
BTDC 36°
ABDC 76°
292°
BBDC 69°
ATDC 49°
298°
Forced lubrication (semi-dry sump)
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-40
1.0 L (1.1 US qt)
General Specifications
Items
Drive Train
Primary Reduction System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Clutch Type
Transmission:
Type
Gear Ratios:
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Final Drive System:
Type
Reduction Ratio
Overall Drive Ratio
Frame
Type
Steering Angle
Caster (Rake Angle)
Trail
Front Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Rear Wheel:
Tire Size
Tire Make/Type
Rim Size
Front Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Rear Suspension:
Type
Wheel Travel
Brake Type:
Front and Rear
Effective Disc Diameter:
Front
Rear
Gear
3.350 (67/20)
Wet multi disc, Manual
5-speed, constant mesh, return shift
2.142 (30/14)
1.750 (28/16)
1.444 (26/18)
1.235 (21/17)
1.045 (23/22)
Chain drive
3.846 (50/13)
13.470 at Top gear
Tubular, semi-double cradle
42° to either side
28.7°
126.4 mm (4.976 in.)
80/100-21 51M
DUNLOP MX51F, Tube type
21 × 1.60
100/90-19 57M
DUNLOP MX51, Tube type
19 × 1.85
Telescopic fork (upside down)
315 mm (12.4 in.)
Swingarm (New Uni-trak)
310 mm (12.2 in.)
Single disc
225 mm (8.86 in.)
215 mm (8.46 in.)
KX250ZD
Specifications are subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country.
Unit Conversion Table
Prefixes for Units:
Prefix mega kilo centi milli micro
Symbol
M k c m
µ
Power
× 1 000 000
× 1 000
× 0.01
× 0.001
× 0.000001
Units of Mass:
kg g
×
×
2.205
=
0.03527
=
Units of Volume:
L
L
×
×
0.2642
=
0.2200
=
L
L
L
L mL mL mL
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
1.057
=
0.8799
=
2.113
1.816
0.03381
=
=
=
0.02816
=
0.06102
=
Units of Force:
N
N
×
×
0.1020
=
0.2248
= kg kg
×
×
9.807
2.205
=
=
Units of Temperature:
lb oz kg lb
N lb gal (US) gal (IMP) qt (US) qt (IMP) pint (US) pint (IMP) oz (US) oz (IMP) cu in
Units of Length:
km × 0.6214
= m mm
×
×
3.281
=
0.03937
= mile ft in
Units of Torque:
N·m
N·m
×
×
0.1020
=
0.7376
=
N·m kgf·m kgf·m kgf·m
×
×
×
×
8.851
9.807
7.233
86.80
=
=
=
= kgf·m ft·lb in·lb
N·m ft·lb in·lb
Units of Pressure:
kPa × 0.01020
= kPa kPa kgf/cm² × kgf/cm² × cmHg
×
×
×
0.1450
=
0.7501
=
98.07
14.22
1.333
=
=
= kgf/cm² psi cmHg kPa psi kPa
Units of Speed:
km/h × 0.6214
= mph
Units of Power:
kW kW
PS
×
×
×
1.360
1.341
0.7355
=
=
=
PS × 0.9863
=
PS
HP kW
HP
Table of Contents
2
Periodic Maintenance Chart
The maintenance must be done in accordance with this chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition.
FREQUENCY
OPERATION
Spark plug - clean and inspect †
Each race or 2.5
hours
•
Every
3 races or 7.5
hours
Every 6 races or 15 hours
Every 12 races or
30 hours
See
Page
2-81
Spark plug - replace
Clutch - inspect
Clutch plates - inspect †
Throttle cable - inspect and adjust
Air cleaner element - clean
Air cleaner element - replace
Throttle body assy - inspect and adjust
Engine oil - change
E
N
G
I
N
E
Piston and piston ring - replace
Cylinder head, cylinder - inspect
Piston pin - replace
Valve clearance - inspect †
Oil filter - replace
Exhaust system - inspect †
Silencer wool - change
Kick pedal and shift pedal - clean
Engine sprocket - inspect †
Coolant level - inspect
Water hoses and connections - inspect †
Crankshaft - inspect
Breather hose - inspect
Brake - adjust †
Brake pad wear - inspect †
Brake fluid level - inspect †
S
I
S
C
H
A
S
Brake fluid - change
Brake master cylinder cup and dust cover - replace
Brake caliper fluid seal and dust seal - replace
Brake hoses - replace
Brake hoses, connections - inspect †
Spoke tightness and rim runout - inspect †
Wheel bearing - inspect †
Frame - inspect
Drive chain wear - inspect †
Drive chain - inspect and adjust
Drive chain - lubricate
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
If damaged
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Every 2 years
Every 2 years
Every 2 years
Every 4 years
2-81
2-29
2-29
2-14
2-19
2-19
2-15
2-30
2-27
2-26
•
2-27
2-23
2-31
2-27
2-28
–
2-38
2-21
2-23
2-33
2-32
2-39
2-43
2-40
2-41
2-43
2-44
2-48
2-48
2-34
2-35
2-80
2-35
2-36
2-38
Periodic Maintenance Chart
FREQUENCY
OPERATION
Wheels/tires - inspect
Rear sprocket - inspect †
Front fork - clean and inspect
Front fork oil - change
Rear shock absorber oil - change
S
S
I
S
C
H
A
Cable - inspect
Fuel hose - replace
Fuel hose, connections - inspect †
Fuel system - clean
Steering play - inspect †
Steering stem bearing - lubricate
Swingarm and Uni-Trak linkage pivots - lubricate
Swingarm and Uni-Trak linkage pivots - inspect †
Nuts, bolts, fasteners - inspect †
General lubrication - perform
†: Replace, add, adjust, clean or torque if necessary.
Each race or 2.5
hours
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Every
3 races or 7.5
hours
Every 6 races or 15 hours
Every 12 races or
30 hours
See
Page
2-34
•
•
Every 5 years
2-38
2-49
2-49
2-70
2-82
2-15
2-14
•
•
•
•
2-21
2-78
2-80
2-78
2-78
2-82
2-81
Torque and Locking Agent
Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. If insufficiently tightened, a bolt or nut may become damaged, strip an internal thread, or break and then fall out. The following table lists the tightening torque for the major bolts and nuts, and the parts requiring use of a non-permanent locking agent or silicone grease etc.
When checking the tightening torque of the bolts and nuts, first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to specified torque.
Letters used in the “Remarks” column mean:
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10:1)
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
T: First, tighten the stem nut with 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb) of torque, then loosen it and retighten it with 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m, 43 in·lb) of torque.
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
Fastener
N·m
Torque kgf·m ft·lb
Remarks
Fuel System (DFI)
Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts
Throttle Cable Bolts
Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Bolt
Throttle Case Mounting Screws
Delivery Joint Bolt
Water Temperature Sensor
Gear Position Switch Screws
Cooling System
Water Hose Clamp Screws
Water Pipe Bolt
Water Pump Cover Bolts (L = 55 mm)
Water Pump Impeller Bolt
Water Pump Cover Bolts (L = 30, 65 mm)
Coolant Drain Bolt
Engine Top End
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
Camshaft Cap Bolts
Plug
Cylinder Head Bolts (M10)
Auto-Decompressor Bolt
Cylinder Head Bolts (M6)
Cylinder Bolt
Throttle Body Assy Clamp Screw
Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Screw
Lower Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt
Rear Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt
3.4
3.0
2.0
3.8
3.5
12
2.9
3.0
9.8
9.8
7.0
9.8
7.0
9.8
9.8
20
44
12
12
12
2.0
2.0
9.8
15
0.35
0.31
0.20
0.39
0.36
1.2
0.30
0.31
1.0
1.0
0.71
1.0
0.71
1.0
1.0
2.0
4.5
1.2
1.2
1.2
0.20
0.20
1.0
1.5
30 in·lb
27 in·lb
18 in·lb
34 in·lb
31 in·lb
106 in·lb
26 in·lb
27 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
15
32
106 in·lb
106 in·lb
106 in·lb
18 in·lb
18 in·lb
87 in·lb
11
L
L
L
MO, S
L
MO, R, S
S
S
Torque and Locking Agent
Fastener
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts
Clutch
Right Engine Cover Bolts
Clutch Cover Bolts
Oil Filler Plug
Clutch Hub Nut
Clutch Spring Bolts
Engine Lubrication System
Oil Filter Cap Bolts
Piston Oil Nozzle
Breather Fitting
Oil Pump Idle Gear Shaft Screws
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts
Engine Oil Drain Bolt
Engine Removal/Installation
Upper Engine Mounting Bolts
Upper Engine Bracket Bolts
Middle Engine Bracket Nuts
Middle Engine Mounting Nut
Lower Engine Mounting Nut
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Crankshaft/Transmission
Primary Gear Nut
Reed Valve Screws
Crankcase Bearing Retainer Screws
Piston Oil Nozzle
Crankcase Bolts (L = 50 mm)
Crankcase Bolt (L = 65 mm)
Crankcase Bolts (L = 70 mm)
Crankcase Bolts (L = 60 mm)
Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt
Kick Pedal Bolt
Shift Drum Cam Bolt
Gear Positioning Lever Nut
Ratchet Plate Bolt
Ratchet Plate Screw
Shift Pedal Bolt
Wheels/Tires
Spoke Nipples
Front Axle Nut
Front Axle Clamp Bolts
N·m
20
9.8
9.8
9.8
3.5
98
9.0
9.8
2.9
15
5.9
7.0
20
49
29
29
49
49
98
98
7.0
15
2.9
9.8
9.8
9.8
9.8
8.8
25
24
8.8
9.8
15
9.8
Torque kgf·m
2.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
0.36
10.0
0.92
1.0
0.30
1.5
0.60
0.71
2.0
5.0
3.0
3.0
5.0
5.0
10.0
10.0
0.71
1.5
0.30
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
0.90
2.5
2.4
0.90
1.0
1.5
1.0
ft·lb
15
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
31 in·lb
72
80 in·lb
87 in·lb
26 in·lb
11
52 in·lb
62 in·lb
15
36
21
21
36
36
72
Not less than 2.2
78
20
Not less than
0.22
8.0
2.0
Not less than
19 in·lb
58
15
72
62 in·lb
11
26 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
78 in·lb
18
18
78 in·lb
87 in·lb
11
87 in·lb
Remarks
R
L
L
S
S
R, S
R, S
R, S
R, S
Lh, R
L
L, S
L, S
AL, S
L
L
S
L
S
S
S
Torque and Locking Agent
Fastener
Rear Axle Nut
Final Drive
Rear Sprocket Nuts
Brakes
Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws
Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
Front Brake Pad Pin
Caliper Bleed Valves
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Rear Brake Reservoir Cap Bolts
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut
Brake Pedal Bolt
Rear Caliper Holder Shaft
Rear Brake Pad Pin
Rear Brake Pad Pin Plug
Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
Suspension
Air Pressure Relief Screws
Left Front Fork Base Valve Assembly
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
Right Front Fork Spring Adjuster Unit
Left Front Fork Cylinder Unit
Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly Locknut
Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly
Right Front Fork Spring Preload Adjuster
Right Front Fork Bottom Plug Locknut
Right Front Fork Bottom Plug
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut
(Upper)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut
(Lower)
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
Gas Reservoir Damping Adjuster
Assembly
Rear Shock Absorber Spring Locknut
Piston Rod Locknut
N·m
108
34
34
59
98
59
29.5
45
37
1.3
30
20
22
34
34
22
69
30
22
69
39
17
25
27
17
7.8
25
1.5
9.8
2.4
23
25
1.5
8.8
5.9
5.9
9.8
17
ft·lb
79.7
25
25
44
72
44
21.8
33
27
12 in·lb
22
15
16
25
25
16
51
22
16
51
29
18
13 in·lb
78 in·lb
52 in·lb
52 in·lb
87 in·lb
13
69 in·lb
18
13 in·lb
87 in·lb
13
18
20
13
21 in·lb
17
Remarks
R
G, L
Si
L
AL, L
AL
L
R
L
R
R
R
R
R
S
Si
L
Torque kgf·m
11.0
3.5
3.5
6.0
10.0
6.0
3.01
4.6
3.8
0.13
3.1
2.0
2.2
3.5
3.5
2.2
7.0
3.1
2.2
7.0
4.0
0.80
2.5
0.15
1.0
1.7
2.5
2.8
1.7
0.24
2.3
2.5
0.15
0.90
0.60
0.60
1.0
1.7
Torque and Locking Agent
Fastener
Steering
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Steering Stem Head Nut
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
Steering Stem Nut
Handlebar Holder Nuts
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
Brake Hose Clamp Bolt
Frame
Footpeg Bracket Bolts (Upper)
Rear Frame Mounting Bolts
Electrical System
Regulator/Rectifier Nuts
Spark Plug
Flywheel Nut Cap
Magneto Cover Bolts
Timing Inspection Cap
Flywheel Nut
Stator Coil Bolts
Crankshaft Sensor Bolts
Gear Position Switch Screws
Basic Torque for General Fasteners
Threads Diameter
(mm)
10
12
14
16
5
6
8
18
20
N·m
3.4
∼
4.9
5.9
∼
7.8
14
∼
19
25
∼
34
44
∼
61
73
∼
98
115
∼
155
165
∼
225
225
∼
325
N·m
54
34
10
13
3.5
9.8
3.5
78.5
9.8
7.0
2.9
25
98
20
4.9
34
22
3.0
Torque kgf·m
2.5
10.0
2.0
0.50
3.5
2.2
0.31
5.5
3.5
Torque kgf·m
0.35
∼
0.50
0.60
∼
0.80
1.4
∼
1.9
2.6
∼
3.5
4.5
∼
6.2
7.4
∼
10.0
11.5
∼
16.0
17.0
∼
23.0
23.0
∼
33.0
1.02
1.3
0.36
1.0
0.36
8.00
1.0
0.71
0.30
ft·lb
18
72
15
43 in·lb
25
16
27 in·lb
40
25
89 in·lb
115 in·lb
31 in·lb
87 in·lb
31 in·lb
57.9
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
26 in·lb
Remarks
AL, 2T
AL, L
T
R
AL
L
R
L
L
L
ft·lb
30
∼
43 in·lb
52
∼
69 in·lb
10
∼
13.5
19
∼
25
33
∼
45
54
∼
72
83
∼
115
125
∼
165
165
∼
240
Specifications
Item
Fuel System (DFI)
Throttle Grip Free Play
Idle Speed
Air Cleaner Element Oil
Cooling System
Coolant:
Type (Recommended)
Color
Mixed Ratio
Freezing Point
Total Amount
Engine Top End
Valve Clearance:
Exhaust
Intake
Cylinder Head Warp
2
∼
3 mm (0.08
Standard
∼
Permanent type antifreeze
Green
Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
–35°C (–31°F)
1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
0.12 in.)
2 050 ±50 r/min (rpm)
High quality foam air filter oil
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.17
0.10
– – –
∼
∼
0.22 mm (0.0067
0.15 mm (0.0039
∼
∼
0.0087 in.)
0.0059 in.)
Cylinder Inside Diameter (see text) 77.000
∼
77.012 mm
(3.0315
∼
3.0320 in.)
Piston/Cylinder Clearance 0.041
∼
0.068 mm
(0.0016
∼
0.0027 in.)
Clutch
Clutch Lever Free Play
Friction Plate Thickness
Friction Plate Warp
Steel Plate Warp
8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
2.72
∼
2.88 mm (0.107
∼
0.113 in.)
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Engine Lubrication System
Engine Oil:
Type
Viscosity
Capacity
Castrol “POWER1 R4 Racing” 5W-40 or API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO
MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 10W-50
0.75 L (0.79 US qt) (when filter is not removed)
0.80 L (0.85 US qt) (when filter is removed)
1.00 L (1.06 US qt) (when engine is completely dry)
Crankshaft/Transmission
Connecting Rod Big End Side
Clearance
0.25
∼
0.35 mm
(0.0098
∼
0.0138 in.)
– – –
– – –
0.05 mm
(0.002 in.)
77.10 mm
(3.035 in.)
– – –
– – –
2.5 mm (0.10 in.)
0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
0.6 mm
(0.02 in.)
Specifications
Item
Wheels/Tires
Rim Runout (with tire installed):
Axial
Standard
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
Radial TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
100 kPa (1.00 kgf/cm², 14 psi) Tires Air Pressure (Front/Rear)
Standard Tire:
Front:
Size
Make
Type
Rear:
Size
Make
Type
Final Drive
Drive Chain Slack
Drive Chain 20-link Length
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout)
Brakes
Brake Lever Free Play
Brake Fluid Type:
Front
Rear
Brake Pad Lining Thickness:
Front
Rear
Suspension
Fork Oil:
Type
Capacity (Left Front Fork):
Cylinder Unit
Cylinder Unit Oil Level
Outer Tube
Capacity (Right Front Fork)
80/100-21 51M
DUNLOP
MX51F, Tube
100/90-19 57M
DUNLOP
MX51, Tube
52
∼
58 mm (2.0
∼
2.3 in.)
317.5
∼
318.2 mm (12.50
∼
12.53 in.)
TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Adjustable (to suit rider)
DOT3 or DOT4
DOT3 or DOT4
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
6.4 mm (0.25 in.)
SHOWA SS-19 or equivalent
Service Limit
TIR 2.0 mm
(0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm
(0.08 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
323 mm (12.7 in.)
TIR 0.5 mm
(0.020 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
1 mm (0.04 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
– – –
330 mL (11.16 US oz.)
115
∼
123 mm (4.53
∼
4.84 in.)
320 ±2.5 mL (10.82 ±0.085 US oz.)
(EUR, BR) 300 ±2.5 mL (10.14 ±0.085
US oz.)
235 ±2.5 mL (7.95 ±0.085 US oz.)
– – –
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
300
∼
340 mL
(10.14
∼
11.50
US oz.)
(Adjustable Range)
230
∼
378 mL
(7.78
∼
12.78
US oz.)
Rear Shock Absorber Oil:
Type
Capacity
SHOWA SS-25 or equivalent approx. 380 mL (12.8 US oz.)
– – –
– – –
Specifications
Item
Electrical System
Spark Plug Gap
Standard
0.8
∼
0.9 mm (0.031
∼
0.035 in.)
Service Limit
– – –
Special Tools
Inside Circlip Pliers:
57001-143
Filler Cap Driver:
57001-1454
Steering Stem Nut Wrench:
57001-1100
Jack:
57001-1238
Fork Spring Compressor:
57001-1587
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Fork Piston Rod Puller, M12 × 1.25:
57001-1289
Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm:
57001-1645
Fork Oil Level Gauge:
57001-1290
Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm:
57001-1705
Special Tools
Fork Spring Compressor:
57001-1771
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Fuel System (DFI)
○
If the motorcycle is not properly handled, the high pressure inside the fuel line can cause fuel to leak [A] or the hose burst. Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter) and check the fuel hose.
Replace the fuel hose if any fraying, cracks [B] or bulges
[C] are noticed.
•
Check that the fuel hose is routed according to Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
When installing the fuel hose, avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twist, and run the fuel hose with a minimum of bending so that fuel flow will not be obstructed.
Replace the hose if it has been sharply bent or kinked.
•
Check the throttle grip free play [A] by lightly turning the throttle grip [B] back and forth.
Throttle Grip Free Play
Standard: 2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.)
If the free play is improper, adjust the throttle cable.
•
Check that the throttle grip moves smoothly from full open to close, and the throttle closes quickly and completely in all steering positions by the return spring.
If the throttle grip does not return properly, check the throttle cable routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then lubricate the throttle cable.
•
Run the engine at the idle speed, and turn the handlebars all the way to the right and left to ensure that the idle speed does not change.
If the idle speed increase, check the throttle cable free play and the cable routing.
•
Loosen the locknut [A] at the upper end of the throttle cable.
•
Screw the throttle cable adjuster [B] to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
•
Tighten the locknut.
If the throttle grip free play cannot be adjusted with the adjuster, replace the throttle cables.
•
Turn the handlebars from side to side while idling the engine. If idle speed varies, the throttle cable may be poorly routed or it may be damaged.
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Check the throttle bore for cleanliness as follows.
○
Remove the throttle body assy (see Throttle Body Assy
Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).
○
Check the throttle bore [A] at the throttle valve for carbon deposits by opening the throttle valve.
If any carbon accumulates, wipe the carbon off the throttle bore and the throttle valve, using a lint-free cloth penetrated with a high flash-point solvent.
•
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter).
•
Be sure to place a piece of cloth around each fuel hose joint.
•
Wipe off the dirt of the surface [A] around the connection using a cloth or a soft brush.
Throttle Body Assy Side
When removing with standard tip screwdriver:
•
Insert the standard tip screwdriver [A] into the slit [B] on the joint lock [C].
•
Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.
When removing with fingers:
•
Open and push up [A] the joint lock [B] with your fingers.
NOTICE
Prying or excessively widening the joint lock ends for fuel hose removal will permanently deform the joint lock, resulting in a loose or incomplete lock that may allow fuel to leak and create the potential for a fire explosion. To prevent fire or explosion from a damaged joint lock, do not pry or excessively widen the joint lock ends when removing the fuel hose. The joint lock has a retaining edge that locks around the housing.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Pull the fuel hose joint [A] out of the delivery pipe.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under certain conditions and can cause severe burns. Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled fuel must be completely wiped up immediately. When the fuel hose is disconnected, fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe. Cover the hose connection with a clean shop towel to prevent fuel spillage.
•
Clean the delivery pipe.
•
Cover the delivery pipe with the vinyl bag to keep it clean.
Air Cleaner Side
When removing with standard tip screwdriver:
•
Insert the standard tip screwdriver [A] into the slit [B] on the joint lock [C].
•
Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.
When removing with fingers:
•
Open and push up [A] the joint lock [B] with your fingers.
NOTICE
Prying or excessively widening the joint lock ends for fuel hose removal will permanently deform the joint lock, resulting in a loose or incomplete lock that may allow fuel to leak and create the potential for a fire explosion. To prevent fire or explosion from a damaged joint lock, do not pry or excessively widen the joint lock ends when removing the fuel hose. The joint lock has a retaining edge that locks around the housing.
•
Pull the fuel hose joint [A] out of the delivery pipe.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under certain conditions and can cause severe burns. Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled fuel must be completely wiped up immediately. When the fuel hose is disconnected, fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe. Cover the hose connection with a clean shop towel to prevent fuel spillage.
•
Clean the delivery pipe.
•
Cover the delivery pipe with the vinyl bag to keep it clean.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the vinyl bag on each delivery pipe.
•
Check that there are no flaws, burrs, and adhesion of foreign materials on each delivery pipe [A].
•
Replace the fuel hose with a new one.
•
Run the fuel hose correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Apply engine oil to the fuel outlet pipe [A] lightly.
•
Insert [A] the fuel hose joint [B] straight onto the delivery pipe until the hose joint clicks.
•
Push [C] the joint lock [D].
Throttle Body Assy Side [E]
Air Cleaner Side [F]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Push and pull [A] the fuel hose joint back and forth more than two times and make sure it is locked and does not come off.
Throttle Body Assy Side [B]
Air Cleaner Side [C]
WARNING
Leaking fuel can cause a fire or explosion resulting in severe burns. Make sure the fuel hose joint is installed correctly on the delivery pipe and that it doesn’t leak.
If it comes off, reinstall the hose joint.
•
Install the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Installation in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter).
•
Start the engine and check the fuel hose for leaks.
NOTICE
This motorcycle is designed for competition use only. Therefore, the radiator does not incorporate a coolant reserve tank or cooling fan. Prolonged idling of the engine with no airflow through the radiator can cause coolant loss and engine overheating resulting in possible engine damage. Any riding conditions that increase engine temperature will further reduce idling time before coolant loss occurs.
These conditions include high ambient temperature, sandy or muddy terrain, or other conditions causing high engine loads at low speeds.
Furthermore, warming the engine up excessively before operation, or leaving idling with the hot engine temperature after operation results in the engine overheating, too.
•
Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
•
With the engine idling, turn the handlebars to both sides
[A].
If handlebars movement changes the idle speed, the throttle cable may be improperly adjusted or incorrectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be sure to correct any of these conditions before riding (see Cable, Wire, and
Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Check the idle speed, using the engine revolution tester
[A] for high accuracy.
If the idle speed is out of specified range, adjust it.
Idle Speed
Standard: 2 050 ±50 r/min (rpm)
•
Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
•
Turn the idle adjusting screw [A] until the idle speed is correct.
To increase idle speed [B]
To decrease idle speed [C]
•
Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure that the idle speed is within the specified range. Readjust if necessary.
NOTE
○
In dusty areas, the element should be cleaned more frequently than recommended interval.
○
After riding through rain or on muddy roads, the element should be cleaned immediately.
○
Since repeated cleaning opens the pores of the element, replace it with a new one in accordance with the
Periodic Maintenance Chart. Also, if there is a break in the element material or any other damage to the element, replace the element with a new one.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the element in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere near the working areas. Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the element.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Wing Bolt [A]
Air Cleaner Element [B]
•
Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the air cleaner duct so no dirt is allowed to enter the throttle body assy.
•
Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing with a clean damp towel.
NOTICE
Check inside of the intake tract and throttle body assy for dirt. If dirt is present, clean the intake tract and throttle body assy thoroughly. You may also need to replace the element and seal the housing and intake tract.
•
Separate the element [A] from the frame [B].
•
Clean the element [A] in a bath of a high flash-point solvent using a soft bristle brush.
•
Squeeze it dry in a clean towel [A]. Do not wring the element or blow it dry; the element can be damaged.
•
Check all parts of the element for visible damage.
If any parts of the element are damaged, replace them.
•
After cleaning, saturate the element with a high-quality foam-air-filter oil, squeeze out the excess, then wrap it in a clean towel and squeeze it as dry as possible.
○
Be careful not to tear the sponge filter.
•
Assemble the element.
•
Remove the towel from the air cleaner duct.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Apply grease to all connections and screw holes in the air cleaner housing and intake tract.
•
Install the element onto its frame, and coat the element lip and lip seat with a thick layer of all-purpose grease to assure a complete seal.
•
Install the air cleaner element so that its tab [A] faces upward and its projections [B] align with the holes [C] of the air cleaner housing.
•
Tighten the wing bolt securely.
•
Install the seat (see Seat Installation in the Frame chapter).
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the tank in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area. Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the tank.
•
Remove the fuel tank and drain the fuel (see Fuel Tank
Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter).
•
Remove the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal in the
Fuel System (DFI) chapter).
•
Pour some high flash-point solvent into the fuel tank and shake the tank to remove dirt and fuel deposits.
•
Drain the solvent out of the tank.
•
Dry the tank with compressed air.
•
Install the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Installation in the
Fuel System (DFI) chapter).
•
Install the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Installation in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter).
Cooling System
WARNING
Coolant can be extremely hot and cause severe burns, is toxic and very slippery. Do not remove the radiator cap or attempt to change the coolant when the engine is hot; allow it cool completely.
Immediately wipe any spilled coolant from tires, frame, engine or other painted parts. Do not ingest coolant.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
NOTE
○
Check the level when the engine is cold (room or ambient temperature).
•
Remove the right radiator shroud (see Radiator Shroud
Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Lean the motorcycle slightly until the radiator cap is level to the ground so that the radiator cap is located uppermost in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the radiator.
•
Remove the radiator cap [A].
NOTE
○
Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. Then push down and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap.
•
Check the coolant level. The coolant level [A] should be at the bottom of the filler neck [B].
If the coolant level is low, add coolant through the filler opening to the bottom of the filler neck. Install the cap.
Recommended Coolant
Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Water and Coolant Mixture Ratio
Soft Water: 50%
Coolant: 50%
Freezing Point: –35°C (–31°F)
Total Amount: 1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
NOTICE
For refilling, add the specified mixture of coolant and soft water.
Adding water alone dilutes the coolant and degrades its anticorrosion properties.
The diluted coolant can attack the aluminum engine parts. In an emergency, soft water alone can be added. But the diluted coolant must be returned to the correct mixture ratio within a few days.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Visually inspect the coolant.
If whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded.
If the coolant is brown, iron or steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush the cooling system.
If the coolant gives off an abnormal smell, check for a cooling system leak. It may be caused by exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system.
•
Remove the radiator shrouds (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter).
○
The high pressure inside the water hoses [A] can cause coolant to leak [B] or the hose to burst if the line is not properly maintained. Visually inspect the hoses for signs of deterioration. Squeeze the hoses. A hose should not be hard and brittle, nor should it be soft or swollen.
Replace the hose if any fraying, cracks [C] or bulges [D] are noticed.
•
Check that the hoses are securely connected and clamps are tightened correctly.
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
Engine Top End
NOTE
○
Valve clearance must be checked and adjusted when the engine is cold (at room temperature).
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Timing Inspection Cap [A]
Flywheel Nut Cap [B]
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Bring the piston to the TDC of the compression stroke to inspect the valve clearance (the position at the end of the compression stroke), when the cam lobe faces outside of the camshaft.
○
Place a wrench over the flywheel nut [A] and turn it counterclockwise to align the TDC mark [B] with the center of the groove [C] of the inspection hole.
•
Using a thickness gauge [A], measure the clearance between each cam lobe and valve lifter for all 4 valves.
○
For the purpose of adjusting the valve clearances, record the measured values.
Valve Clearance
Standard:
Exhaust
Intake
0.17
∼
0.22 mm (0.0067
∼
0.0087 in.)
0.10
∼
0.15 mm (0.0039
∼
0.0059 in.)
If the valve clearance is not within the specified range, adjust it.
•
Remove:
Camshaft Cap [A] (see Camshaft Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Camshafts [B] (see Camshaft Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
•
Remove the valve lifters [C] of the applicable valve.
•
Remove the shims [D].
NOTE
○
Mark and record the locations of the valve lifters and shims so that they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Clean the shim to remove any dust or oil.
•
Measure the thickness of the removed shim [A].
•
Select a new shim thickness calculation as follows.
a + b – c = d
[a] Present Shim Thickness
[b] Measured Valve Clearance
[c] Specified Valve Clearance (Mean Value)
Exhaust 0.195 mm
Intake 0.125 mm
[d] Replace Shim Thickness
Example (Intake):
2.60 + 0.31 – 0.125 = 2.785 mm
○
Exchange the shims for the 2.800 size shim.
NOTICE
Do not use the shims for another models.
This could cause wear of the valve stem end and the valve stem damage.
Adjustment Shims
Thickness
P/No.
Mark
2.500
92180-0167 250
2.525
92180-0168 252
2.550
92180-0169 255
2.575
92180-0170 258
2.600
92180-0171 260
2.625
92180-0172 262
2.650
92180-0173 265
2.675
92180-0174 268
2.700
92180-0175 270
2.725
92180-0176 272
2.750
92180-0177 275
2.775
92180-0178 278
2.800
92180-0179 280
2.825
92180-0180 282
2.850
92180-0181 285
2.875
92180-0182 288
2.900
92180-0183 290
2.925
92180-0184 292
2.950
92180-0185 295
2.975
92180-0186 298
3.000
92180-0187 300
Thickness
P/No.
Mark
3.025
92180-0188 302
3.050
92180-0189 305
3.075
92180-0190 308
3.100
92180-0191 310
3.125
92180-0192 312
3.150
92180-0193 315
3.175
92180-0194 318
3.200
92180-0195 320
3.225
92180-0196 322
3.250
92180-0197 325
3.275
92180-0198 328
3.300
92180-0199 330
3.325
92180-0200 332
3.350
92180-0201 335
3.375
92180-0202 338
3.400
92180-0203 340
3.425
92180-0204 342
3.450
92180-0205 345
3.475
92180-0206 348
3.500
92180-0207 350
NOTE
○
Be sure to remeasure the clearance after selecting a shim. The clearance can be out of the specified range because of the shim tolerance.
○
If there is no valve clearance, use a shim that is a few sizes smaller, and remeasure the valve clearance.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Install the shim.
○
Turn the marked side [A] to upside.
○
Apply engine oil to the shim to keep the shim in place during camshaft installation.
NOTICE
Do not put shim stock under the shim. This may cause the shim to pop out at high rpm, causing extensive engine damage.
Do not grind the shim. This may cause it to fracture, causing extensive engine damage.
•
Apply engine oil to the valve lifter [B] surface and install the lifter.
•
Install:
Camshafts (see Camshaft Installation in the Engine Top
End chapter)
Camshaft Cap (see Camshaft Installation in the Engine
Top End chapter)
•
Recheck the valve clearance and readjust if necessary.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove the cylinder head (see Cylinder Head Removal in the Engine Top End chapter).
•
Lay a straightedge [A] across the lower surface of the head at several different points, and measure warp by inserting a thickness gauge [B] between the straightedge and head.
Cylinder Head Warp
Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
If warp exceeds the service limit, repair the mating surface. Replace the cylinder head if the mating surface is badly damaged.
•
Remove the valves (see Valve Removal in the Engine Top
End chapter).
•
Scrape the carbon out of the combustion chamber and exhaust port with a scraper [A] or a suitable tool.
•
Clean the cylinder head, using high flash-point solvent.
•
Blow out any particles which may obstruct the oil passage in the cylinder head using compressed air.
•
Install the valves (see Valve Installation in the Engine Top
End chapter).
NOTE
○
Measure the cylinder inside diameter when the cylinder is cold (at room temperature).
•
Visually inspect the inside of the cylinder for scratches and abnormal wear.
If the cylinder is damaged or badly worn, replace it with a new one.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Take a side-to-side and a front-to-back measurement as shown (total 6 measurements).
○
The cylinder wear is uneven in different places.
10 mm (0.39 in.) [A]
25 mm (0.98 in.) [B]
60 mm (2.36 in.) [C]
Cylinder Inside Diameter
Standard: 77.000
∼
77.012 mm (3.0315
∼
3.0320
in.), and less than 0.01 mm (0.0004
in.) difference between any two measurements.
Service Limit: 77.10 mm (3.035 in.), or more than 0.05
mm (0.0020 in.) difference between any two measurements.
If any of the cylinder inside diameter measurements exceeds the service limit, the cylinder must be replaced with a new one.
○
Since the PLATING cylinder cannot be bored or honed.
The piston/cylinder clearance is measured whenever a piston or cylinder is replaced with a new one. The standard piston/cylinder clearance must be adhered to whenever the cylinder is replaced.
If only a piston is replaced, the clearance may exceed the standard slightly. But it must be within the standard, in order to avoid piston seizure.
The most accurate way to find the piston clearance is by making separate piston and cylinder diameter measurements and then computing the difference between the two values. Measure the piston diameter as just described, and measure the cylinder diameter at the very bottom of the cylinder.
Piston/Cylinder Clearance
Standard: 0.041
∼
0.068 mm (0.0016
∼
0.0027 in.)
•
Refer to the Cylinder and Piston section in the Engine Top
End chapter.
•
The exhaust system, in particular the muffler body, is designed to reduce exhaust noise and conduct the exhaust gases away from the rider while minimizing power loss. If carbon has built up inside the muffler body, exhaust efficiency is reduced, causing engine performance to drop.
If the muffler body is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace it.
If the exhaust noise becomes too loud or engine performance drops, replace the silencer wool.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove:
Right Side Cover (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter)
Muffler Body Cover Bolts [A]
Muffler Mounting Bolt [B]
•
Remove the muffler cover [A].
○
Tap the bracket [B] with a plastic mallet [C] to separate the cover and pipe.
•
Replace the silencer wool with a new one.
•
Clean the adhered silicone sealant.
•
Insert the new silencer wool [A] and muffler cover [B].
○
Fit the pipe end [C] and exhaust hole of the baffle.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the muffler cover bolts, and tighten them.
•
Tighten the muffler mounting bolt securely.
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the silicone sealant coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply silicone sealant to the mating surface [A].
•
Install the right side cover (see Side Cover Installation in the Frame chapter).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Clutch
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Inspection
•
Slide the clutch cable adjuster knob [A] out of place.
•
Check that the clutch cable upper end [B] is fully seated in the adjusting bolt [C].
•
Install the knob to original position.
•
Pull the clutch lever [A] lightly, and check the flee play [B].
Clutch Lever Free Play
Standard: 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
If the play is too wide, the clutch may not release fully. If the play is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully. In either case, adjust it.
Clutch Lever (Clutch Cable) Free Play Adjustment
•
Turn the clutch cable adjuster knob [A] so that the clutch lever will have 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.) of play.
NOTICE
Be sure that the outer cable end at the clutch lever is fully seated in the adjuster at the clutch lever, or it could slip into the place later, creating enough cable play to prevent clutch disengagement.
If the free play can not be adjusted with the clutch cable adjuster, use the adjusting nut.
•
Slide the dust cover [A].
•
Loosen the locknut [B] at the clutch cable, and turn the adjusting nut [C] so that clutch lever has 8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.) of play.
•
Tighten the locknut, and start the engine and check that the clutch does not slip and that it release properly.
•
Remove the clutch plates (see Clutch Removal in the
Clutch chapter).
•
Visually inspect the friction and steel plates to see if they show signs of seizure, uneven wear or any other damage.
If any plates show signs of damage, replace the friction plates and steel plates as a set.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Measure the thickness [A] of the friction and at several points with vernier calipers.
Friction Plate Thickness
Standard: 2.72
∼
2.88 mm (0.107
∼
0.113 in.)
Service Limit: 2.5 mm (0.10 in.)
If they have worn past the service limit, replace them with new ones.
•
Place each friction plate or steel plate on a surface plate
[A].
•
Measure the gap between the surface plate and each friction plate or steel plate [B] with a thickness gauge [C]. The gap is the amount of friction or steel plate warp.
Friction and Steel Plates Warp
Standard:
Friction Plate 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Steel Plate 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
Service Limit:
Friction Plate 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Steel Plate 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
If any plate is warped over the service limit, replace it with a new one.
Engine Lubrication System
WARNING
Vehicle operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated engine oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine seizure, accident, and injury. Check the oil level before each use and change the oil and filter according to the periodic maintenance chart.
•
Warm up the engine thoroughly so that the oil will pick up any sediment and drain easily. Then stop the engine.
•
Place an oil pan beneath the engine.
•
Remove the oil filler plug [A].
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the engine oil drain bolt [A] from the bottom of the engine, and let the oil drain completely.
NOTE
○
Hold the motorcycle upright so that the oil may drain completely.
•
Replace the drain bolt gasket with a new one.
•
Install the drain bolt with the gasket.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Engine Oil Drain Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
•
Pour in the specified type and amount of oil.
Recommended Engine Oil
Type: Castrol “POWER1 R4 Racing” 5W-40 or
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA,
MA1 or MA2
Viscosity: SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 10W-50
Capacity: 0.75 L (0.79 US qt) (when filter is not removed)
0.80 L (0.85 US qt) (when filter is removed)
1.00 L (1.06 US qt) (when engine is completely dry)
NOTE
○
Do not add any chemical additive to the oil. Oils fulfilling the above requirements are fully formulated and provide adequate lubrication for both the engine and the clutch.
○
The oil viscosity may need to be changed to accommodate atmospheric conditions in your riding area.
•
Check the oil level (see Oil Level Inspection in the Engine
Lubrication System chapter).
•
Replace the oil filler plug O-ring with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the O-ring.
•
Tighten:
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Torque - Oil Filler Plug: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
•
Drain:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change)
•
Remove:
Oil Filter Cap Bolts [A]
Oil Filter Cap [B]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the oil filter [A].
•
Replace the oil filter with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the grommet [A].
•
Install the oil filter.
○
Turn the grommet to inside.
NOTICE
Inside out installation stop oil flow, causing engine seizure.
•
Replace the oil filter cap O-ring [A] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the O-ring.
•
Install:
Spring [B]
Oil Filter Cap
•
Tighten:
Torque - Oil Filter Cap Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Pour the specified engine oil (see Engine Oil Change).
•
Be certain that the breather hose [A] are routed without being flattened or kinked and is connected correctly.
If it is not, correct it.
•
Inspect the breather hose for damage or signs of deterioration.
○
This hose should not be hard and brittle, nor should be soft swollen.
Replace it if any damage is noticed.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Crankshaft/Transmission
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Cylinder (see Cylinder Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Piston (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
•
Make sure that the crankshaft rotate [A] smoothly (in the neutral position).
If the crankshaft will not turn smoothly, check the connecting rod big end side clearance.
If the connecting rod big end side clearance is good, check the bearings (see Bearing Inspection in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
•
Measure the connecting rod big end side clearance at right side of big end using a thickness gauge [A].
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
Standard: 0.25
∼
0.35 mm (0.0098
∼
0.0138 in.)
Service Limit: 0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft assembly or reassemble the crankshaft.
•
Make sure that the crankshaft rotates smoothly after assembling the engine.
Wheels/Tires
•
Using an air pressure gauge [A], measure the air pressure when the tires are cold.
•
Adjust the tire air pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference, but do not stray too far from the recommended pressure.
Tire Pressure Track Condition
When the track is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tire pressure to increase the tire tread surface on the ground.
When the track is pebbly or hard, increase the tire pressure to prevent damage or punctures, through the tires will skid more easily.
80 kPa (0.8 kgf/cm²,
12 psi)
↑
↓
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm²,
14 psi)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove any imbedded stones or other foreign particles from the tread.
Repair or replace with a new one if necessary.
•
Visually inspect the tire for cracks and cuts.
Replace the tire, if any damage are noticed.
○
Swelling or high spots indicate internal damage, requiring tire replacement.
WARNING
Some replacement tires may adversely affect handling and cause an accident resulting in serious injury or death. To ensure proper handling and stability, use only the recommended standard tires for replacement, inflated to the standard pressure.
NOTE
○
Check and balance the wheel when a tire is replaced with a new one.
Standard Tire
Front:
Size
Make
Type
Rear:
Size
Make
Type
80/100-21 51M
DUNLOP
MX51F, Tube
100/90-19 57M
DUNLOP
MX51, Tube
•
Check that all the spokes are tightened evenly.
If spoke tightness is uneven or loose, tighten the spoke nipples evenly.
Torque - Spoke Nipples: 2.2 N·m (0.22 kgf·m, 19 in·lb)
•
Check the rim runout (see Rim Runout Inspection).
WARNING
A missing spoke places an additional load on the other spokes, which will eventually cause other spokes to break, creating the potential for an accident resulting in serious injury or death.
Immediately replace any broken spoke(s).
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front/rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Inspect the rim for cracks, dents, bending, or warping.
If there is any damage to the rim, it must be replaced.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Set a dial gauge against the side of the rim, and rotate the rim to measure the axial runout [A].
○
The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.
•
Set a dial gauge against the outer circumference of the rim, and rotate the rim to measure radial runout [B].
Rim Runout (with tire installed)
Standard:
Axial
Radial
Service Limit:
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
Axial
Radial
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
If rim runout exceeds the service limit, check the wheel bearings first.
If the problem is not due to the bearings, loosen some spokes and tighten others within the standard torque.
•
Raise the front/rear wheel off the ground using the jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Rotate [A] the wheel lightly, and check for roughness, binding or noise.
If any damage is found, replace the hub bearing.
•
Turn the handlebars until the handlebars does not move to either side (front wheel).
•
The wheel edge is moved [A] to one direction gripping the edge of the wheel by both hands and the play of the wheel bearing is checked.
If the play is found, replace the bearing.
Final Drive
•
Rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain for damaged rollers, and loose pins and links.
If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain.
Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry.
Bushing [A]
Roller [B]
Pin [C]
Pin Link [D]
Roller Link [E]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 10 kg (22 lb) weight
[A] on the chain.
•
Measure the length of 20 links [B] on the straight part [C] of the chain from the pin center of the 1st pin to the pin center of the 21st pin. Since the chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places.
Chain 20-link Length
Standard: 317.5
∼
318.2 mm (12.50
∼
12.53 in.)
Service Limit: 323 mm (12.7 in.)
If any measurements exceed the service limit, replace the chain. Also, replace the front and rear sprockets when the drive chain is replaced.
WARNING
A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing it to go out of control. Inspect the chain for damage and proper adjustment before each ride.
If chain wear exceeds the service limit, replace it with the standard chain.
Standard Chain
Make: DAIDO
Type:
Link:
DID 520DMA4
114 links
•
Using the jack, raise the rear wheel until the rear shock absorber stretched fully.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Check the wheel alignment (see Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Final Drive chapter), and adjust it if necessary
(see Wheel Alignment Adjustment in the Final Drive chapter).
NOTE
○
Clean the drive chain if it is dirty, and lubricate it if it appears dry.
•
Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest (because it wears unevenly).
•
Measure the space (chain slack) [A] between the bottom of the chain and the rear of the chain slipper.
Chain Slack
Standard: 52
∼
58 mm (2.0
∼
2.3 in.)
If the drive chain slack exceeds the standard, adjust it.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Loosen the left and right chain adjuster locknuts [A].
•
Remove the cotter pin [B] and loosen the rear axle nut [C].
If the chain is too tight, back out the left and right chain adjusting bolts [D] evenly, and push the wheel forward until the chain is too loose.
If the chain is too loose, turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive chain has the correct amount of slack. To keep the chain and wheel properly aligned, the notch on the left chain adjuster should align with the same swingarm mark [E] as the right chain adjuster notch [F].
•
Check the wheel alignment (see Wheel Alignment Inspection in the Final Drive chapter).
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition.
Be sure the wheel is properly aligned.
•
Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts securely.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 79.7 ft·lb)
•
Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest position, and readjust if necessary.
•
Insert a new cotter pin [A].
NOTE
○
When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.
○
It should be within 30 degrees.
○
Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past the nearest hole.
•
Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the axle nut to the proper torque and install a new cotter pin.
•
Check the rear brake effectiveness.
NOTE
○
In wet and muddy conditions, mud sticks to the chain and sprockets resulting in an overly tight chain, and the chain may break. To prevent this, adjust the chain to 62
∼
68 mm (2.4
∼
2.7 in.) of slack whenever necessary.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
○
The chain should be lubricated with a lubricant which will both prevent the exterior from rusting and also absorb shock and reduce friction in the interior of the chain.
If the chain is especially dirty, it should be washed in diesel oil or kerosene, and afterward soaked in a heavy oil. Shake the chain while it is in the oil so that oil will penetrate into the inside of each roller.
•
An effective, good quality lubricant specially formulated for chains is best for regular chain lubrication.
•
If a special lubricant is not available, a heavy oil such as
SAE90 is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication.
•
Apply oil to the sides of the rollers so that oil will penetrate into the rollers and bushings.
•
Wipe off any excess oil.
Oil Applied Area [A]
•
Visually inspect the front and rear sprocket teeth for wear and damage.
If they are worn as illustrated or damaged, replace the sprocket, and inspect the drive chain wear.
Worn Tooth (Engine Sprocket) [A]
Worn Tooth (Rear Sprocket) [B]
Direction of Rotation [C]
NOTE
○
If a sprocket requires replacement, the chain is probably worn also. When replacing a sprocket, inspect the chain.
•
Using the jack, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Set a dial gauge [A] against the rear sprocket [B] near the teeth as shown.
•
Rotate [C] the rear wheel slowly to measure the sprocket warp (runout).
○
The difference between the highest and lowest dial gauge readings is the amount of warp (runout).
Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout)
Standard: TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear sprocket.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Brakes
•
Slide the dust cover [A].
•
Adjust the brake lever to suit you.
○
Loosen the adjuster locknut [B] and turn the adjuster [C] to either side.
•
After adjustment, tighten the locknut.
WARNING
An improperly adjusted brake could drag and cause the brake to overheat, damaging the brake assembly and possbily locking the rear wheel, resulting in loss of control. Always maintain the proper brake adjustment.
NOTE
○
Usually it is not necessary to adjust the pedal position, but always adjust it when the master cylinder is disassembled or pedal position is incorrect.
•
Measure the length [A].
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Length
Standard: 68.5 ±1 mm (2.70 ±0.04 in.)
If it is not within the standard, adjust the push rod in the master cylinder as follows.
○
Loosen the push rod locknut [A].
○
Turn the adjusting bolt [B] to obtain the specified length.
○
Tighten the locknut.
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut: 17 N·m
(1.7 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Check the brake fluid level in the front or rear brake reservoir [A] and the front or rear reservoir must be kept above the lower level line [B].
NOTE
○
Hold the reservoir horizontal when checking brake fluid level.
If the fluid level in front or rear reservoir is lower than the lower level line, fill the reservoir to the upper level line.
•
Inside the reservoir is stopped end showing the upper level line [C].
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can reduce the brake system’s effectiveness and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not mix two brands of brake fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
WARNING
When working with the disc brake, observe the precautions listed below.
1. Never reuse old brake fluid.
2. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left unsealed or that has been open for a long time.
3. Do not mix two types and brands of fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective. It may also cause the rubber brake parts to deteriorate.
4. Don’t leave the reservoir cap off for any length of time to avoid moisture contamination of the fluid.
5. Don’t change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind is blowing.
6. Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts.
Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
7. When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them.
Clean off any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent. Do not use one which will leave an oily residue. Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
8. Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
9. If any of the brake line fittings or the bleed valve is opened at any time, the AIR MUST BE BLED
FROM THE BRAKE LINE.
Recommended Disc Brake Fluid
Type:
Front and Rear DOT3 or DOT4
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
NOTE
○
The procedure to change the front brake fluid is as follows. Changing the rear brake fluid is the same as for the front brake.
•
Level the brake fluid reservoir.
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Reservoir Cap [B]
Diaphragm
•
Remove the rubber cap [A] on the bleed valve [B].
•
Attach a clear plastic hose [A] to the bleed valve on the caliper, and run the other end of the hose into a container.
•
Fill the reservoir with fresh specified brake fluid.
•
Change the brake fluid as follows:
○
Repeat this operation until fresh brake fluid comes out from the plastic hose or the color of the fluid changes.
1. Open the bleed valve [A].
2. Apply the brake and hold it [B].
3. Close the bleed valve [C].
4. Release the brake [D].
WARNING
Mixing brands and types of brake fluid can reduce the brake system’s effectiveness and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not mix two brands of brake fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid that is already in the reservoir are unidentified.
NOTE
○
The fluid level must be checked often during the changing operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid. If the fluid in the reservoir runs out any time during the changing operation, the brakes will need to be bled since air will have entered the brake line.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the clear plastic hose.
•
Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15
kgf·m, 13 in·lb)
•
Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.
Torque - Caliper Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
•
After changing the fluid, check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
If necessary, bleed the air from the lines (see Brake Line
Bleeding in the Brakes chapter).
•
Check the lining thickness and condition of the brake pads in each caliper.
NOTE
○
It is able to check with the pads installed.
If either pad is damaged, replace both pads in the caliper as a set.
Brake Pad Lining Thickness
Standard:
Front
Rear
Service Limit:
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
6.4 mm (0.25 in.)
Front
Rear
1 mm (0.04 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
If the lining thickness [A] of either pad is less than the service limit [B], replace both pads in the caliper as a set.
Front Pad [C]
Rear Pad [D]
Front Master Cylinder Disassembly
•
Remove the front master cylinder (see Front Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter).
•
Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, and pour the brake fluid into a container.
•
Remove the locknut and pivot bolt, and remove the brake lever.
•
Pull the push rod [A] and dust cover [B] out of place, and remove the circlip [C].
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Remove the washer [D].
•
Remove the piston assy [E] (include primary and secondary cups).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Rear Master Cylinder Disassembly
•
Remove the rear master cylinder (see Rear Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter).
NOTE
○
Do not remove the push rod clevis since removal requires brake pedal position adjustment.
•
Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm, and pour the brake fluid into a container.
•
Slide the dust cover [A] on the push rod [B] out of place, and remove the circlip [C].
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Pull out the push rod.
•
Remove the piston assy [D] (include primary and secondary cups).
Master Cylinder Assembly
•
Before assembly, clean all parts including the master cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol.
NOTICE
Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning of these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely, and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
•
Apply brake fluid to the removed parts and to the inner wall of the cylinder.
•
Take care not to scratch the piston assy and the inner wall of the cylinder.
•
Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease) to the following parts.
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt (Front)
Brake Lever Contact (Front)
Push Rod Contact
Dust Covers
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Lever Pivot Bolt: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kgf·m, 52 in·lb)
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut: 5.9 N·m (0.60
kgf·m, 52 in·lb)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Front Caliper Disassembly
•
Remove:
Front Caliper (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Brake Pads (see Brake Pad Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Separate the caliper holder [A] from the caliper [B].
•
Remove the anti-rattle springs [C].
•
Using compressed air, remove the pistons. One way to remove the pistons is as follows.
○
Cover the caliper opening with a clean heavy cloth [A].
○
Remove the pistons by lightly applying compressed air [B] to the hose joint opening.
WARNING
The piston in the brake caliper can crush hands and fingers. Never place your hand or fingers in front of the piston.
•
Pull out the pistons [A] by hand.
•
Remove the dust seal [B] and fluid seal [C] on each cylinder.
NOTE
○
If compressed air is not available, with the brake hose connected to the caliper.
○
Prepare a container for brake fluid, and perform the work above it.
○
Remove the spring and pads (see Brake Pad Removal in the Brakes chapter).
○
Pump the brake lever until the pistons come out of the cylinders.
Rear Caliper Disassembly
•
Remove:
Rear Caliper (see Caliper Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Brake Pads (see Brake Pad Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Separate the caliper holder [A] from the caliper [B].
•
Remove the anti-rattle springs [C].
•
Using compressed air, remove the piston.
○
Cover the caliper opening with a clean heavy cloth [A].
○
Remove the piston by lightly applying compressed air [B] to the hose joint opening.
WARNING
The piston in the brake caliper can crush hands and fingers. Never place your hand or fingers in front of the piston.
•
Pull out the piston [A] by hand.
•
Remove the dust seal [B] and fluid seal [C].
Caliper Assembly
•
Clean the caliper parts except for the pads.
NOTICE
For cleaning of the parts, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol.
If you removed the bleed valve, install the bleed valve and rubber cap.
Torque - Caliper Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Replace the fluid seal(s) [A] with new ones.
○
Apply silicone grease to the fluid seal(s), and install them
• into the cylinder(s) by hand.
Replace the dust seal(s) [B] with new ones.
○
Apply brake fluid to the dust seal(s), and install them into the cylinder(s) by hand.
•
Apply brake fluid to the outside of the piston(s) [C], and push them into each cylinder by hand.
•
Install the anti-rattle springs [A].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Replace the friction boot [A] and dust boot [B] if they are damaged.
•
Apply a thin coat of PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease to the caliper holder shafts [C] and holder holes (PBC is a special high-temperature, water-resistance grease).
•
Assemble the caliper and caliper holder.
•
Install the pads (see Brake Pad Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Install the caliper (see Caliper Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Wipe up any spilled brake fluid on the caliper with wet cloth.
•
Inspect the brake hose and fittings for deterioration, cracks and signs of leakage.
○
The high pressure inside the brake line can cause fluid to leak [A] or the hose to burst if the line is not properly maintained. Bend and twist the rubber hose while examining it.
Replace the hose if any cracks [B] or bulges [C] are noticed.
Tighten any loose fittings.
NOTICE
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely washed away immediately.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Front Brake Hose
•
Remove:
Brake Hose Clamp Bolts [A]
Brake Hose Clamps [B]
Rear Brake Hose
•
Remove:
Bolts [A]
Caliper Guard [B]
Screws [C]
Brake Hose Clamp [D]
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Brake Hose Clamp [B]
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts [C]
•
Remove the front/rear brake hose banjo bolts [A] and washers [B].
•
Replace the washers with new ones.
○
When removing the brake hose, take care not to spill the brake fluid on the painted or plastic parts.
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
•
When installing the hoses, avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twisting, and run the hoses according to
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Bleed the brake line after installing the brake hose (see
Brake Line Bleeding in the Brakes chapter).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Suspension
•
Visually inspect the front fork for oil leakage, scoring or scratches on the outer surface of the inner tubes [A].
•
Holding the brake lever, pump the front fork down and up manually to check for smooth operation.
If the fork shown damages or oil leak, replace the damaged parts.
If the fork rattles, inspect the oil level or tightening torque.
NOTICE
If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace it.
Excessive bending, followed by subsequent straightening, can weaken the inner tube.
•
Remove the number plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Loosen the front fork clamp bolts (upper) [A].
•
Loosen the cylinder unit (left front fork) [B]/spring adjuster unit (right front fork) using the top plug wrench [C].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
•
Remove the front forks (see Front Fork Removal in the
Suspension chapter).
•
Thoroughly clean the fork before disassembly.
NOTICE
Be careful not scratch the inner tube and not to damage the dust seal.
Avoid scratching or damaging the inner tube or the dust seal. Use a mild detergent and sponge out dirt with plenty of water.
•
Measure the length [A] between the top surface of the axle holder [B] and under surface of the outer tube [C].
○
Record the length before disassembling the fork.
Length
Standard: 314 ±2 mm (12.4 ±0.08 in.)
Left Front Fork
•
Record the position of each damping adjuster [A] and then turn [B] them to the softest position.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Unscrew the left front fork cylinder unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Slowly slide down the outer tube.
•
Hold the left front fork tube [A] upside down over a clean container [B] and drain the oil.
NOTE
○
Pump the outer tube up and down to discharge the fork oil.
•
Temporarily install the left front fork cylinder unit [A] to the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Hold the axle holder part [A] with a vise [B].
○
Protect the axle holder part with a soft jaws [C] or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
•
Unscrew the adjuster assembly [D] completely.
NOTICE
When removing the adjuster assembly, do not force to unscrew it at once using an impact wrench.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Compress the outer tube by hands and remove the adjuster assembly from the axle holder part so that the locknut appear about 20
∼
30 mm (0.79
∼
1.2 in.).
•
Hold the locknut [A] with a wrench [B] and remove the left front fork adjuster assembly [C].
NOTE
○
Do not remove the locknut from the piston rod. The piston rod may slide into the inner tube.
NOTICE
When loosening the locknut, the threads of the axle holder do not touch the push rod. If the push rod is scratched, it is possible to the damage in the cylinder unit.
•
Remove the push rod [A].
NOTICE
Removing the locknut and pushing the piston rod thread into the left front fork cylinder unit will damage the oil seal. Do not remove the locknut from the piston rod.
•
Remove the fork leg from the vise.
•
Unscrew the left front fork cylinder unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Remove the left front fork cylinder unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Holding the top plug wrench [A] with a vise, unscrew the left front fork base valve assembly [B] on the fork cylinder unit [C].
○
Use a box wrench [D].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
•
Pull out the left front fork base valve assembly [A] from the fork cylinder unit [B].
○
Slowly compress the piston rod until it stops so that the left front fork base valve assembly can be removed easily.
NOTICE
Be careful not to damage the bushing of the left front fork base valve assembly.
Disassembling the left front fork base valve assembly can lead to trouble. Do not disassemble the left front fork base valve assembly.
•
Hold the left front fork cylinder unit [A] upside down over a clean container [B] and drain the oil.
NOTE
○
Pump the piston rod up and down to discharge the fork oil.
•
Hold the front fork at the inverted position for more than
20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
•
Clean the threads [A] of the left front fork cylinder unit and left front fork base valve assembly.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Hold the left front fork cylinder unit [A] upright with the piston rod fully stretched.
•
Plug the oil hole [B] on the left front fork cylinder unit with finger.
•
Pour the specified oil.
Suspension Oil - SHOWA SS-19 (1 L) : 44091-0009
Cylinder Unit Oil Capacity
Standard: 330 mL (11.16 US oz.)
•
Apply specified fork oil to the sliding surface of the piston rod.
•
Purge the air from the fork cylinder [A] by gently moving
[B] the piston rod up and down several times.
•
With the piston rod fully stretched, check the oil level in the left front fork cylinder unit.
○
Measure the oil level [A] from the top surface [B] in the left front fork cylinder unit using a suitable gauge.
Fork Cylinder Unit Oil Level
Standard: 115
∼
123 mm (4.53
∼
4.84 in.)
NOTE
○
Fork oil level may also be measured using the fork oil level gauge.
Special Tool - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290
•
Replace the O-rings [A] on the left front fork base valve assembly with new ones.
•
Apply specified fork oil to the O-rings and bushings [B].
NOTICE
Do not damage the bushings when assembling the left front fork base valve.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
With the piston rod [A] appear about 20 mm (0.79 in.) [B] from fully compressed, gently install the left front fork base valve assembly [C] slowly to the left front fork cylinder unit
[D].
NOTE
○
Plug the oil hole [E] on the left front fork cylinder unit with finger.
○
While pulling the piston rod, install the base valve assembly slowly and pushing down it fully.
○
If there is difficulty in assembling the base valve, it may be because the oil level is too high. Check the oil level in the left front fork cylinder unit.
•
Hold the top plug wrench [A] with a vise.
•
Hold the left front fork cylinder unit [B] with the top plug wrench.
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
•
Tighten the left front fork base valve assembly [C].
Torque - Left Front Fork Base Valve Assembly: 30 N·m (3.1
kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)
•
Turn the locknut fully in.
•
Apply specified fork oil to the piston rod sliding surface.
•
Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth [A] to prevent thread damage.
•
Hold the left front fork cylinder unit [B] at the upright position.
•
Slowly pump the piston rod [C] several times about 100 mm (3.94 in.) [D].
NOTICE
Take care not to bent or damage the piston rod.
•
Discharge the extra oil off the left front fork cylinder unit
[A] by pumping the piston rod [B] to full stroke [C].
NOTICE
Service carefully because oil flies out from the oil hole of the left front fork cylinder unit.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Check the compression damping force setting to the softest.
•
Check the piston rod sliding surface for damage.
•
Drain the extra oil from the left front fork cylinder unit oil hole [A].
•
Blow out the extra oil from the oil hole of the left front fork cylinder unit with the compressed air [B] blow to the oil hole.
•
Wipe the oil off completely from the cylinder unit.
NOTE
○
If you cannot use compressed air, remove the air pressure relief screw of the left front fork base valve assembly. Upside down the fork damper for 10 minutes and drain the oil from the left front fork cylinder unit.
•
Protect the piston rod end with a heavy cloth to prevent damage.
•
Check the piston rod for smooth operation.
○
Pump the piston rod [A] to full stroke [B] by pushing down the left front fork cylinder unit [C].
If the piston rod operation is not smooth, check the piston rod for bend or damage.
•
Hold the fork cylinder unit on level ground [A] while piston rod is full stroked by your hand.
•
Release the piston rod, then check that the piston rod extends to maximum [B].
If the piston rod does not extend to maximum, bleed the left front fork cylinder unit again.
NOTICE
Take care not to bend or damage the piston rod.
•
Wipe the fork oil off completely from the left front fork cylinder unit [A].
•
Compress the piston rod [B] to 200
∼
250 mm (7.87
∼
9.84
in.) [C] and hold the left front fork cylinder unit upright position for 10 minutes.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
There should be no oil leak from the base valve assembly part [A] or bottom of the cylinder [B].
If oil leaks from the base valve assembly part or bottom of the cylinder, replace the cylinder unit.
•
Hold the left front fork cylinder unit on level ground.
•
Release the piston rod, then check that the piston rod extends to maximum.
•
Tighten the locknut [A] fully so that the piston rod thread protrudes 10
∼
12 mm (0.39
∼
0.47 in.) [B].
•
Wipe the fork oil off completely from the left front fork cylinder unit [A].
•
Install the left front fork cylinder unit into the fork.
•
Temporarily tighten the left front fork cylinder unit using the top plug wrench.
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
•
Hold the axle holder part with a vise.
○
Protect the axle holder part with a soft jaws or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Replace the left front fork adjuster assembly O-ring [A] with a new one and apply specified fork oil to it.
•
Insert the push rod [B] into the piston rod [C].
•
Install the left front fork adjuster assembly [D] to the push rod.
•
Slowly turn the left front fork adjuster assembly [A] clockwise until resistance is felt.
•
Check the clearance between the locknut [B] and left front fork adjuster assembly for more than 1 mm (0.04 in.) [C].
•
Turn the locknut [A] counterclockwise until it contacts with the left front fork adjuster assembly [B].
•
With the locknut held immovable using a wrench [C], tighten the left front fork adjuster assembly locknut.
Torque - Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly Locknut: 22
N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 ft·lb)
NOTICE
When tightening the locknut, the threads of the axle holder do not touch the push rod. If the push rod is scratched, it is possible to the damage in the cylinder unit.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the left front fork adjuster assembly.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly: 69 N·m (7.0
kgf·m, 51 ft·lb)
•
Compare the length [A] at assembly and at disassembly.
○
There should be same length.
If the length at assembly is longer than at disassembly, check the left front fork adjuster assembly and locknut installation.
Axle Holder [B]
Outer Tube [C]
Length
Standard: 314 ±2 mm (12.4 ±0.08 in.)
NOTE
○
Keep the length while tighten the left front fork cylinder unit.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Using the top plug wrench, unscrew the left front fork cylinder unit from the outer tube [A].
•
Slowly slide down the outer tube.
•
Pour the specified fork oil into the left front fork outer tube.
Suspension Oil - SHOWA SS-19 (1 L) : 44091-0009
Outer Tube Oil Capacity
Standard: 320 ±2.5 mL (10.82 ±0.085 US oz.)
(EUR, BR) 300 ±2.5 mL (10.14
±0.085 US oz.)
Adjustable Range: 300
∼
340 mL (10.14
∼
11.50 US oz.)
•
Replace the O-ring on the left front fork cylinder unit with a new one and specified fork oil to the O-ring.
•
Temporarily install the left front fork cylinder unit [A] to the outer tube [B] using the top plug wrench [C].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
Right Front Fork
•
Unscrew the right front fork spring adjuster unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Slowly slide down the outer tube.
•
Hold the right front fork tube [A] upside down over a clean container [B] and drain the oil.
NOTE
○
Pump the outer tube up and down to discharge the fork oil.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Temporarily install the right front fork spring adjuster unit
[A] to the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Record the position of spring preload adjuster [A] and then turn [B] it to the hardest position.
•
Holding the top plug wrench [A] with a vise, unscrew the right front fork spring preload adjuster [B] on the spring adjuster unit with a top plug wrench [C].
Special Tools - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm: 57001-1705
•
Hold the front fork at the inverted position to allow the fork oil to drain.
•
Hold the axle holder part [A] with a vise [B].
○
Protect the axle holder part with a soft jaws [C] or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
•
Unscrew the right front fork bottom plug [D] completely.
NOTICE
When removing the right front fork bottom plug, do not force to unscrew it at once using an impact wrench.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
When not using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special
Tool: 57001-1771):
•
Compress the outer tube by hands and install the top plug wrench [A] between the axle holder bottom [B] and locknut
[C].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
WARNING
The fork spring applies pressure to the adjuster assembly and can eject the special tool with substantial force if the tool is not properly and securely placed. Be sure the tool is fully in place as shown in the photo, and keep fingers away to avoid getting them pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly and axle holder.
•
Hold the locknut [A] with a wrench [B] and remove the right front fork bottom plug [C].
NOTE
○
Do not remove the locknut from the piston rod. The piston rod may slide into the inner tube.
NOTICE
When loosening the locknut, the threads of the axle holder do not touch the push rod. If the push rod is scratched, it is possible to the damage in the cylinder unit.
•
Compress the outer tube by hands and remove the top plug wrench.
When using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special Tool:
57001-1771):
•
Set the fork spring compressor [A] and a suitable jack [B].
Special Tool - Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1771
•
Put the heavy cloth [A] on the fork spring compressor [B].
•
Set the front fork, with its upper side facing downward, on the fork spring compressor.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Insert the holder bar [A] of the fork spring compressor
(special tool: 57001-1587) to the axle hole and secure it with the holder [B] of the fork spring compressor (special tool: 57001-1771).
Special Tools - Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1587
Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1771
•
Compress the outer tube with a suitable jack while keeping the front fork upright, and install the top plug wrench
[A] between the axle holder bottom [B] and locknut [C].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
WARNING
The fork spring applies pressure to the adjuster assembly and can eject the special tool with substantial force if the tool is not properly and securely placed. Be sure the tool is fully in place as shown in the photo, and keep fingers away to avoid getting them pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly and axle holder.
•
Remove the front fork from the fork spring compressor with care not to drop the top plug wrench, and hold the axle holder with a vise.
NOTE
○
Protect the axle holder with a soft jaws or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Hold the locknut [A] with a wrench [B] and remove the right front fork bottom plug [C].
NOTE
○
Do not remove the locknut from the piston rod. The piston rod may slide into the inner tube.
NOTICE
When loosening the locknut, the threads of the axle holder do not touch the push rod. If the push rod is scratched, it is possible to the damage in the cylinder unit.
•
Reset the front fork on the fork spring compressor with care not to drop the top plug wrench.
•
Compress the outer tube with a suitable jack while keeping the front fork upright, and remove the top plug wrench.
•
Remove the front fork from the fork spring compressor.
•
Unscrew the right front fork spring adjuster unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Slowly slide down the outer tube.
•
Remove the following parts from the outer tube.
Right Front Fork Spring Adjuster Unit [A]
Collar [B]
Spring Seat [C]
Fork Spring [D]
•
Hold the front fork at the inverted position for more than
20 minutes to allow the fork oil to fully drain.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Tighten the locknut [A] fully.
•
Install the piston rod puller [A] to the threads on the piston rod end [B].
Special Tool - Fork Piston Rod Puller, M12 × 1.25: 57001
-1289
•
Install the following parts in the outer tube.
Fork Spring [A]
Spring Seat [B]
Collar [C]
Right Front Fork Spring Adjuster Unit [D]
•
Temporarily install the right front fork spring adjuster unit
[A] to the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
When not using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special
•
Tool: 57001-1771):
Hold the axle holder part with a vise.
○
Protect the axle holder part with a soft jaws or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
•
Compress the outer tube by hands and install the top plug wrench [A] between the axle holder bottom and locknut.
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
WARNING
The fork spring applies pressure to the adjuster assembly and can eject the special tool with substantial force if the tool is not properly and securely placed. Be sure the tool is fully in place as shown in the photo, and keep fingers away to avoid getting them pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly and axle holder.
When using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special Tool:
57001-1771):
•
Set the fork spring compressor [A] and a suitable jack [B].
Special Tool - Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1771
•
Put the heavy cloth [A] on the fork spring compressor [B].
•
Set the front fork, with its upper side facing downward, on the fork spring compressor.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Insert the holder bar [A] of the fork spring compressor
(special tool: 57001-1587) to the axle hole and secure it with the holder [B] of the fork spring compressor (special tool: 57001-1771).
Special Tools - Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1587
Fork Spring Compressor: 57001-1771
•
Compress the outer tube with a suitable jack while keeping the front fork upright, and install the top plug wrench
[A] between the axle holder bottom [B] and locknut [C].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
WARNING
The fork spring applies pressure to the adjuster assembly and can eject the special tool with substantial force if the tool is not properly and securely placed. Be sure the tool is fully in place as shown in the photo, and keep fingers away to avoid getting them pinched between the tool, adjuster assembly and axle holder.
•
Remove the front fork from the fork spring compressor with care not to drop the top plug wrench, and hold the axle holder with a vise.
NOTE
○
Protect the axle holder with a soft jaws or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
•
Remove the piston rod puller [A].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Replace the O-ring [A] on the right front fork bottom plug with a new one and apply specified fork oil to it.
•
Slowly turn the right front fork bottom plug [A] clockwise until resistance is felt. Check the clearance between the locknut [B] and right front fork bottom plug for more than
1 mm (0.04 in.).
•
Turn the locknut counterclockwise until it contacts with the right front fork bottom plug.
•
Hold the right front fork bottom plug with a wrench [C] and tighten the locknut.
Torque - Right Front Fork Bottom Plug Locknut: 22 N·m
(2.2 kgf·m, 16 ft·lb)
NOTICE
When tightening the locknut, the threads of the axle holder do not touch the push rod. If the push rod is scratched, it is possible to the damage in the cylinder unit.
When not using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special
Tool: 57001-1771):
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the right front fork bottom plug [A].
•
Compress the outer tube by hands and remove the top plug wrench [B].
When using the Fork Spring Compressor (Special Tool:
57001-1771):
•
Reset the front fork on the fork spring compressor with care not to drop the top plug wrench.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the right front fork bottom plug [A].
•
Compress the outer tube with a suitable jack while keeping the front fork upright, and remove the top plug wrench
[B].
•
Remove the front fork from the fork spring compressor.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Hold the axle holder part with a vise.
○
Protect the axle holder part with a soft jaws or heavy cloth when using a vise.
WARNING
If the axle holder is not securely clamped, the front fork assembly may come out of the vise when compressed, which could cause an accident resulting in injury. However, clamping the axle holder too tightly can damage it which will affect riding stability. Use protective aluminum covers on the jaws of the vise and do not tighten the vise excessively.
•
Tighten the right front fork bottom plug [A].
Torque - Right Front Fork Bottom Plug: 69 N·m (7.0 kgf·m,
51 ft·lb)
•
Unscrew the right front fork spring adjuster unit [A] from the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Slowly slide down the outer tube.
•
Clean the threads [A] of the right front fork spring adjuster unit and right front fork spring preload adjuster.
•
Replace the O-ring [B] on the right front fork spring preload adjuster [C] with a new one.
•
Turn the right front fork spring preload adjuster counterclockwise to the softest position.
•
Apply specified fork oil to the O-ring.
•
Install the right front fork spring preload adjuster so that the projections [A] align to the holes [B] on the right front fork spring adjuster unit.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Holding the top plug wrench [A] with a vise, tighten the right front fork spring preload adjuster [B] on the right front fork spring adjuster unit [C] with a top plug wrench [D].
Special Tools - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm: 57001-1645
Top Plug Wrench, 36 mm: 57001-1705
Torque - Right Front Fork Spring Preload Adjuster: 30 N·m
(3.1 kgf·m, 22 ft·lb)
•
Pour the specified fork oil [A] into the right front fork outer tube [B].
Suspension Oil - SHOWA SS-19 (1 L) : 44091-0009
Fork Oil Capacity
Standard: 235 ±2.5 mL (7.95 ±0.085 US oz.)
Adjustable Range: 230 ~ 378 mL (7.78 ~ 12.78 US oz.)
•
Replace the O-ring on the right front fork spring adjuster unit with a new one.
•
Apply specified fork oil to the O-ring.
•
Temporarily install the right front fork spring adjuster unit
[A] to the outer tube [B].
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [C]: 57001-1645
•
Compare the length at assembly and at disassembly.
○
There should be same length.
If the length at assembly is longer than at disassembly, check the right front fork bottom plug and locknut installation.
Length
Standard: 314 ±2 mm (12.4 ±0.08 in.)
•
Install the front forks to the motorcycle (see Front Fork
Installation in the Suspension chapter).
•
Remove the front fork clamp bolts (upper).
•
After installing the front fork, tighten the cylinder unit (left front fork) [A]/spring adjuster unit (right front fork).
Special Tool - Top Plug Wrench, 50 mm [B]: 57001-1645
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
The torque of left front fork cylinder unit and right front fork spring adjuster unit are specified to 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m,
25 ft·lb), however, when you use the top plug wrench [A], reduce the torque to 90% of the specified value [31 N·m (3.1
kgf·m, 23 ft·lb)] due to the distance [B] between the center of the square hole, where the torque wrench is fitted, and that of the octagonal hole of the wrench.
This torque value [31 N·m (3.1 kgf·m, 23 ft·lb)] is applicable when you use a torque wrench whose length gives leverage of approximately 310 mm (12.2 in.) between the grip point to the center of the coupling square.
○
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the front fork clamp bolts (upper).
Torque - Left Front Fork Cylinder Unit: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m,
25 ft·lb)
Right Front Fork Spring Adjuster Unit: 34 N·m (3.5
kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
The oil should be changed in the rear shock absorber at least once per racing season. The frequency for best performance must be based upon riding conditions and rider ability.
The disassembly procedure is included in the oil change procedure.
Disassembly for Oil Change
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal in the Suspension chapter).
•
Remove the shock absorber spring (see Spring Replacement in the Suspension chapter).
•
Insert a suitable tool to center [A] of the reservoir cap, and release the nitrogen gas completely (keep the suitable tool inserted).
○
For instructions on how to use the tool, follow the operation manual provided by the manufacturer.
WARNING
The shock contains high-pressure nitrogen gas that when suddenly released can eject oil and internal shock parts at high velocity, causing serious injury.
To avoid injury, do not point a suitable tool toward your face or body when releasing nitrogen gas pressure since an oil mist is often released with the nitrogen. Always release nitrogen gas pressure before disassembling the rear shock absorber to prevent explosive separation of parts.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Adjust the gas reservoir damping adjusters [A] to the softest position.
•
Remove the adjuster assembly [B] and pump the rear shock to drain the oil.
•
Using the hand press, push the reservoir cap [A].
•
Remove:
Circlip [B]
Reservoir Cap
•
Tap [A] the hole [B] in the stopper [C] with suitable tools
[D] to free the stopper from the rear shock body.
•
Slide up the stopper of the piston rod, then lightly tap around the seal with a suitable rod and mallet, and push the seal assembly [A] 10 mm (0.39 in.) down.
•
Remove the circlip [A].
•
Wrap a heavy cloth around the rear shock body and piston rod to prevent the oil diffusion.
•
Lightly move the piston rod [B] back and forth, and pull out the piston rod assembly.
•
Drain the remains oil.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Visually inspect the piston [A], O-ring [B], and oil seal assembly [C].
If the piston, O-ring and oil seal assembly are badly scored, rusty or damaged, replace them.
Piston Rod Assembly Disassembly/Assembly
If necessary, disassembly and assembly the piston rod assembly as follows.
•
Using the grinder, shave off the stake portions [A] of the piston rod.
•
Hold the lower of the piston rod assembly in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Remove the locknut [A] and discard it.
NOTICE
Do not tighten the rebound damping adjuster of the piston rod.
•
Remove the piston rod assembly from the vise.
•
Remove the piston assembly [A].
○
Be careful not to disassemble it.
○
Stick a suitable rod into the piston assembly and leave it until being reinstalled.
•
Inspect the slide bushing [A].
If the bushing is damaged, replace it.
○
Cut the slide bushing.
•
Replace the O-rings [B] with new ones.
•
Install the O-rings and a new bushing on the piston.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Wrap the threads [A] of the piston rod with tape.
•
Remove the oil seal assembly [B].
•
Remove the O-ring [A] and spring [B].
•
Remove the rebound rubber [A] out of its groove [B].
•
Remove:
Collar [C]
Spring Holder [D]
Oil Seal [E]
•
Remove:
Oil Seal [A]
NOTICE
To avoid damage to the surfaces of the oil seal assembly body [B], cover the screwdriver [C] with the cloth [D].
•
Replace the following with new ones.
Oil Seals
Rebound Rubber (if damaged)
O-ring
•
Install each parts direction as shown.
Oil Seal [A]
Oil Seal [B]
Spring Holder [C]
Collar [D]
Rebound Rubber [E]
Spring [F]
O-ring [G]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove:
Stopper [A]
Damper [B]
Damper Holder [C]
•
Inspect the piston rod sliding surface [A].
If the sliding surface is scratches or distortion, replace it.
•
Hold the lower of the piston rod assembly in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Make the threads of the piston rod end using the die [A].
Die: 12 × 1.25 mm
•
Clean all parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air.
•
Install:
Damper Holder [A]
Damper [B]
Stopper [C]
•
Wrap the threads of the piston rod with tape [A].
•
Apply thin coat of rear shock oil to the sliding surface of the piston rod.
•
Insert the oil seal assembly [B].
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remove the tape from piston rod.
•
Install the piston assembly [A] so that the thick side of the stopper [B] faces downward.
NOTE
○
Be careful not to change the original positions.
•
Install the new piston rod locknut [C].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Piston Rod Locknut: 37 N·m (3.8 kgf·m, 27 ft·lb)
•
Stake the end of the piston rod with the chisel [A] in three place [B].
•
Check the oil seal assembly moving smoothly on the rod.
Assembly for Oil Change
•
Check that the bladder [A] on the gas reservoir cap is not partially collapsed.
If it is, push down the valve core with a screwdriver.
•
Check the bladder for sign of damage or crack.
If necessary, replace it with a new one.
NOTICE
Do not use a damaged or partially collapsed bladder, because it may burst, gently reducing rear shock performance.
•
Replace the gas reservoir cap [B] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the lip [C] of the bladder and install the reservoir cap.
•
Push the bladder into the gas reservoir slowly until it just clears the circlip groove. Wipe out any spilled oil.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
WARNING
Pressurized nitrogen gas can explode out of the shock reservoir cap if a weakened, deformed or flawed circlip is used, allowing oil and internal parts to burst out of the reservoir with great force and cause serious injury. To avoid injury, always use a new circlip whenever the shock is reassembled.
•
Mount the circlip in the groove in the gas reservoir.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Pull up the gas reservoir cap [A] against the circlip.
2.6 mm (0.1 in.) [B]
WARNING
Pressurized nitrogen gas can explode out of the shock reservoir cap if the circlip is not properly installed, allowing oil and internal parts to burst out of the reservoir with great force and cause serious injury. To avoid injury, be sure to install a new circlip in the proper position. If the end of the gas reservoir cap and the end of the gas reservoir are not aligned, the circlip is not correctly fitted in the groove in the gas reservoir or the circlip is deformed and should be replaced with a new one.
•
Hold the upper portion of the rear shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Apply shock absorber oil to the bushing and O-ring of the piston rod assembly.
•
Insert the piston end [A] of the piston rod assembly into the rear shock body [B] slowly. Do not insert the seal assembly [C] yet.
•
Push the seal assembly into the rear shock body until it just clears the circlip groove.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
•
Fit the circlip [A] into the groove in the rear shock body
[B].
•
Pull up the piston rod assembly [C] against the circlip.
NOTICE
If the circlip is not a certain fit in the groove in the rear shock body, the piston rod assembly may come out of the shock absorber when injecting the nitrogen gas or riding the motorcycle.
•
Force the stopper [A] into the rear shock body by lightly tapping around the edge of the stopper with a plastic mallet.
•
Fully extend the piston rod assembly.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Remount the upper portion of the shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws or heavy cloth.
•
Fill the specified oil [A] into the damping adjuster assembly hole.
Suspension Oil - SHOWA SS-25 (1 L) : 45024-0001
Rear Shock Absorber Oil Capacity
Standard: approx. 380 mL (12.8 US oz.)
•
Purge the air from between the gas reservoir [A] and rear shock body [B] by slowly pumping the piston rod [C] in and out.
•
Add the specified oil up to the damping adjuster assembly hole neck [A].
NOTE
○
Hold the adjuster assembly hole facing up and turn the shock absorber to bleed the air from the reservoir completely.
•
Fully extend the piston rod assembly.
•
Inject the nitrogen gas to a pressure of 50 kPa (0.5
kgf/cm², 7 psi) through the valve on the gas reservoir.
•
Check the rear shock body and gas reservoir for oil and gas leaks.
If there are leaks, reassemble the related parts.
•
Replace the O-rings [A] with new ones and apply shock absorber oil.
•
Install the gas reservoir damping adjuster assembly [B] slowly.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Gas Reservoir Damping Adjuster Assembly: 29.5
N·m (3.01 kgf·m, 21.8 ft·lb)
•
Wipe off all oil from the shock absorber body and piston rod.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Inject the nitrogen gas up to the 980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm²,
142 psi) pressure.
WARNING
High pressure gas is dangerous and can explode, causing serious injury. To avoid injury, have a qualified mechanic pressurize the shock reservoir with nitrogen gas only. Do not use air or other gases, since they may cause premature wear, rust, fire hazard or substandard performance.
•
Install the spring (see Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement).
•
Install the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber
Installation in the Suspension chapter).
•
Adjust the spring preload (see Spring Preload Adjustment in the Suspension chapter).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Check the uni-trak component parts for wear periodically, or whenever excessive play is suspected.
•
Using the jack under the frame, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Pump the seat down and up [A] 4 or 5 times, and inspect the smooth stroke.
If the uni-trak linkage does not smooth stroke or noise is found, inspect the uni-trak linkage bearings.
•
Push and pull on the swingarm [A] to check for wear.
A small amount of play on the swingarm is normal and no corrective action is needed. However, if excessive play is felt, remove the uni-trak parts from the frame and check for wear.
•
Refer to the Swingarm Bearing Installation and Rocker
Arm Bearing Installation in the Suspension chapter.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Steering
•
Using the jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
With the front wheel pointing straight ahead, alternately nudge each end of the handlebars.
○
The front wheel should swing fully to left and right from the force of gravity until the fork hits the stop.
If the steering binds or catches before the stop, check the routing of the cables, hoses, and harnesses.
If the steering feels tight, adjust or lubricate the steering.
•
Feel for steering looseness by pushing and pulling [A] the forks.
If you feel looseness, adjust the steering.
•
Using the jack, raise the front wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Remove:
Number Plate [A] (see Number Plate Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Handlebar Pad [B]
Fuel Tank Breather Hose [C]
•
Remove:
Handlebar Clamp Bolts [A]
Handlebar Clamps [B]
Handlebars [C]
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
Loosen the front fork clamp bolts (upper) [A] on both sides.
•
Remove the steering stem head nut [B] and washer [C].
•
Remove the steering stem head [D].
•
Turn the steering stem nut [A] with the steering stem nut wrench [B] to obtain the proper adjustment.
If the steering is too tight, loosen the stem nut a fraction of a turn; if the steering is too loose, tighten the nut a fraction of a turn.
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
NOTE
○
Turn the nut 1/8 turn at a time maximum.
•
Install the steering stem head and washer.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the front fork clamp bolts (upper).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Steering Stem Head Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Check the steering again.
If the steering is too tight or too loose, repeat the adjustment as mentioned above.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove the steering stem (see Steering Stem, Stem
Bearing Removal in the Steering chapter).
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, wash the upper and lower tapered rollers in the cages, and wipe the upper and lower outer races, which are press-fitted into the frame head pipe, clean off grease and dirt.
•
Visually inspect the outer races and rollers.
Replace the bearing assemblies if they show wear or damage.
•
Pack the upper and lower tapered roller bearings [A] in the cages with grease, and apply a light coat of grease to the upper and lower outer races.
•
Install the steering stem (see Steering Stem, Stem Bearing Installation in the Steering chapter).
•
Adjust the steering (see Steering Adjustment).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
Frame
•
Clean the frame with steam cleaner.
•
Visually inspect the frame and rear frame for cracks, dents, bending, or warp.
If there is any damage to the frame, replace it.
WARNING
A repaired frame may fail in use, possibly causing an accident resulting in injury or death. If the frame is bent, dented, cracked, or warped, replace it.
Electrical System
•
Remove the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Removal in the
Electrical System chapter).
•
Clean the plug hole, using the compressed air [A].
•
Remove the spark plug [A] using a suitable 16 mm (0.63
in.) plug wrench [B].
•
Clean the spark plug, preferably in a sandblasting device, and then clean off any abrasive particles. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool.
If the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if the insulator is cracked, replace the plug. Use the standard spark plug.
•
Measure the gap [A] with a wire-type thickness gauge.
If the gap is incorrect, carefully bend the side electrode
[B] with a suitable tool to obtain the correct gap.
Spark Plug Gap
Standard: 0.8
∼
0.9 mm (0.031
∼
0.035 in.)
•
Insert the spark plug into the suitable 16 mm (0.63 in.) plug wrench, and finger-tighten it first.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Spark Plug: 13 N·m (1.3 kgf·m, 115 in·lb)
•
Install the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Installation in the
Electrical System chapter).
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection.
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
General Lubrication and Cable Inspection
•
Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime.
•
Lubricate the points listed below with indicated lubricant.
NOTE
○
Whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions, or especially after using a high-pressure water spray, perform the general lubrication.
Points: Lubricate with Grease.
Clutch Inner Cable Upper and Lower Ends [A]
Throttle Inner Cable Upper End
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt
Brake Pedal Bolt
Cables: Lubricate with Rust Inhibitor.
Throttle Inner Cables
Clutch Inner Cable
Pivots: Lubricate with engine oil.
Rear Master Cylinder Joint Pin
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
•
With the cable disconnected at the both ends, the cable should move freely [A] within the cable housing.
If cable movement is not free after lubricating, if the cable is frayed [B], or if the cable housing is kinked [C], replace the cable.
Nut, Bolt, and Fastener Tightness Inspection
•
Check the tightness of the bolts and nuts listed here in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. Also, check to see that each cotter pin is in place and in good condition.
NOTE
○
For the engine fasteners, check the tightness of them when the engine is cold (at room temperature).
Periodic Maintenance Procedures
If there are loose fasteners, retighten them to the specified torque following the specified tightening sequence.
Refer to the Torque and Locking Agent section in this chapter for torque specifications. For each fastener, first loosen it by 1/2 turn, then tighten it.
If cotter pins are damaged, replace them with new ones.
Nut, Bolt and Fastener to be checked
Wheels:
Spoke Nipples
Front Axle Nut
Front Axle Clamp Bolts
Rear Axle Nut Cotter Pin
Rear Axle Nut
Final Drive:
Chain Adjuster Locknut
Rear Sprocket Nuts
Brakes:
Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Brake Pedal Bolt
Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Cotter Pin
Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
Rear Caliper Holder Shaft
Suspension:
Front Fork Clamp Bolts
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nuts
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Uni-Trak Link Nuts
Steering:
Steering Stem Head Nut
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Engine:
Throttle Cable Adjuster Locknut
Engine Mounting Bolts, Nuts
Engine Bracket Bolts, Nuts
Shift Pedal Bolt
Muffler Mounting Bolts
Exhaust Pipe Holder Nuts
Muffler Pipe Clamp Bolt
Clutch Cable Adjuster Locknut
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
Kick Pedal Bolt
Others:
Footpeg Cotter Pins
Rear Frame Mounting Bolts
Front Fender Bolts
Table of Contents
3
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Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts
2 Throttle Cable Bolts
3 Throttle Case Mounting Screws
4 Air Cleaner Duct Clamp Bolt
5 Delivery Joint Bolt
CL: Apply cable lubricant.
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
O: Apply high-quality foam air filter oil.
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
3.4
3.0
3.8
2.0
3.5
Torque kgf·m
0.35
0.31
0.39
0.20
0.36
ft·lb
30 in·lb
27 in·lb
34 in·lb
18 in·lb
31 in·lb
Remarks
L
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Water Temperature Sensor
2 Gear Position Switch Screws
AD: Apply adhesive.
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
12
2.9
Torque kgf·m
1.2
0.30
ft·lb
106 in·lb
26 in·lb
Remarks
L
DFI System
DFI System
DFI System
1. Fuel Tank
2. Pressure Regulator
3. Fuel Pump
4. Intake Air Pressure Sensor
5. Downstream Injector
6. Upstream Injector
7. Intake Air Temperature Sensor
8. Air Cleaner Housing
9. Ignition Coil
10. Vehicle-down Sensor
11. Crankshaft Sensor
12. Throttle Sensor
13. Water Temperature Sensor
14. Gear Position Switch
15. ECU
16. Capacitor
17. Air Flow
18. Fuel Flow
DFI System
DFI System Wiring Diagram
DFI System
Part Names
1. ECU
2. Self-diagnosis Terminal
3. Throttle Sensor
4. Intake Air Pressure Sensor
5. Downstream Injector
6. Upstream Injector
7. Intake Air Temperature Sensor
8. Water Temperature Sensor
9. Frame Ground 1
10. Ignition Coil
11. Spark Plug
12. Frame Ground 2
13. Fuel Pump
14. Vehicle-down Sensor
15. Gear Position Switch
16. Capacitor
17. Crankshaft Sensor
18. Engine Stop Switch
19. Orange FI Warning Indicator Light (LED)
20. Not Used
21. FI Warning Indicator Light Assy (Option)
22. Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector
○
Color Codes:
BK: Black
BL: Blue
BR: Brown
CH: Chocolate
DG: Dark Green
G: Green
GY: Gray
LB: Light Blue
LG: Light Green
O: Orange
P: Pink
PU: Purple
R: Red
V: Violet
W: White
Y: Yellow
DFI System
Terminal Numbers of ECU Connectors
Terminal Names
1. Power Supply to ECU: R/W
2. Unused
3. DFI Setting Data Selection 1: W/BL
4. Downstream Injector: BL/R
5. Unused
6. Ground for ECU: BK/Y
7. FI Warning Indicator Light: BL/W
8. Upstream Injector: BL/BK
9. Unused
10. Fuel Pump: P/BK
11. Ignition Coil: O
12. Power Supply to Sensors: R/Y
13. External Communication Line: Y/R
14. External Communication Line: Y/BK
15. Throttle Sensor: Y/G
16. Vehicle-down Sensor: BR
17. Ground for Sensors: GY
18. Unused
19. Intake Air Temperature Sensor: LB
20. Unused
21. Water Temperature Sensor: W
22. Ground for ECU: BK/Y
23. Crankshaft Sensor (–): W/Y
24. Crankshaft Sensor (+): G/W
25. Unused
26. External Communication Line (*KDS): P
27. Intake Air Pressure Sensor: BL
28. Gear Position Switch: G/R
29. DFI Setting Data Selection 2: W/R
30. Engine Stop Switch: BK
31. Unused
32. Self-diagnosis Terminal: Y
33. Ground for Control System: BK/W
*: KDS (Kawasaki Diagnostic System)
DFI Parts Location
Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector [A]
ECU [B]
FI Warning Indicator Light Harness Connector [C]
Self-diagnosis Terminal [D]
Vehicle-down Sensor [A]
Ignition Coil [B]
Intake Air Pressure Sensor [A]
Downstream Injector [B]
Upstream Injector [A]
Capacitor [A]
Throttle Sensor [B]
Water Temperature Sensor [C]
Gear Position Switch [D]
Crankshaft Sensor [E]
DFI Parts Location
Intake Air Temperature Sensor [A]
Fuel Pump [A]
Specifications
Item
Digital Fuel Injection System
Idle Speed
Throttle Body Assy:
Throttle Valve
Bore
ECU:
Make
Type
Fuel Pressure
Fuel Pump:
Type
Discharge
Dual Injectors:
Downstream Injector:
Type
Nozzle Type
Resistance
Upstream Injector:
Type
Nozzle Type
Resistance
Throttle Sensor:
Input Voltage
Output Voltage
2 050 ±50 r/min (rpm)
Single throttle valve
43 mm (1.69 in.)
KEIHIN
Digital memory type, with built in IC igniter, sealed with resin
294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm², 43 psi) with engine idling
Wesco pump
Standard
40 mL (1.4 US oz.) or more for 5 seconds
EAT291
Fine atomizing type with 4 holes
About 11.7
∼
12.3
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
EAT812
Fine atomizing type with 4 holes
About 11.7
∼
12.3
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
DC 0.58
∼
0.62 V at idle throttle opening
DC 3.65
∼
3.85 V at full throttle opening (for reference)
4
∼
6 k
Ω
Resistance
Intake Air Pressure Sensor:
Input Voltage
Output Voltage
DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
DC 3.80
∼
4.20 V at standard atmospheric pressure (see text for details)
Intake Air Temperature Sensor:
Output Voltage
Resistance
About DC 2.28
∼
3.43 V at intake air temperature 20°C (68°F)
909
∼
1 363
Ω at 40°C (104°F)
124
∼
186
Ω at 100°C (212°F)
Water Temperature Sensor:
Output Voltage
Resistance
Gear Position Switch:
Resistance
Vehicle-down Sensor:
Detection Angle
Input Voltage
Output Voltage
About DC 2.80
see text see text
More than 55
∼
∼
2.97 V at water temperature 20°C (68°F)
75° for each bank
DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
With sensor tilted 55
∼
75° or more right or left: DC 3.7
∼
4.4 V
With sensor arrow mark pointed up: DC 0.4
∼
1.4 V
Specifications
Item
Throttle Grip and Cables
Throttle Grip Free Play 2
∼
3 mm (0.08
∼
0.12 in.)
Standard
Special Tools and Sealant
Oil Pressure Gauge, 5 kgf/cm²:
57001-125
Needle Adapter Set:
57001-1457
Fork Oil Level Gauge:
57001-1290
Vacuum Gauge:
57001-1369
Hand Tester:
57001-1394
Filler Cap Driver:
57001-1454
Fuel Pressure Gauge Adapter:
57001-1593
Fuel Hose:
57001-1607
Measuring Adapter:
57001-1700
Liquid Gasket, TB1211:
56019-120
DFI Servicing Precautions
DFI Servicing Precautions
There are a number of important precautions that should be followed servicing the DFI system.
○
Connect these connectors until they click [A].
○
Never any of the DFI electrical connectors are disconnected. The ECU memorizes service codes.
○
Do not spray water on the electrical parts, DFI parts, connectors, leads and wiring.
○
When any fuel hose is disconnected, do not start the engine. The fuel pump will operate and fuel will spout from the fuel hose.
○
Do not operate the fuel pump if it is completely dry. This is to prevent pump seizure.
○
Before removing the fuel system parts, blow the outer surfaces of these parts clean with compressed air.
○
When any fuel hose is disconnected, fuel may spout out by residual pressure in the fuel line. Cover the hose joint with a piece of clean cloth to prevent fuel spillage.
○
When installing the fuel hoses, avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening or twisting, and run the fuel hoses with a minimum of bending so that the fuel flow will not be obstructed.
○
Run the hoses according to Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
○
To prevent corrosion and deposits in the fuel system, do not add to fuel any fuel antifreeze chemicals to fuel.
○
If the motorcycle is not properly handled, the high pressure inside the fuel line can cause fuel to leak or the hose to burst. Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal) and check the fuel hoses [A].
Replace the fuel hose if any fraying, cracks or bulges are noticed.
○
To maintain the correct fuel/air mixture (F/A), there must be no intake air leaks in the DFI system. Be sure to install the oil filler plug [A] after filling the engine oil.
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Torque - Oil Filler Plug: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
Troubleshooting the DFI System
When an abnormality in the system occurs, the condition of the problem is stored in the memory of the ECU (Electronic Control Unit). With the engine stopped and conduct a self-diagnosis inspection, the service code is indicated by the number of times the orange FI warning indicator light
(LED) (option) blinks.
Ask the rider about the conditions [A] under which the problem occurred and try to determine the cause [B].
•
First, conduct a self-diagnosis inspection and then a non
-self-diagnosis inspection. The non-self-diagnosis items are not indicated by the orange FI warning indicator light
(LED). Don’t rely solely on the DFI self-diagnosis function, use common sense.
If the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) goes on by kicking the kick pedal about 10 times, these parts are broken.
Even when the DFI system is operating normally, the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) may light up under strong electrical interference. No repair needed.
When the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) goes on and the motorcycle is brought in for repair, check the service codes.
When the repair has been done, the light doesn’t go on.
But the service codes stored in memory are not erased to preserve the problem history, and the light can display the codes in the self-diagnosis mode. The problem history is referred when solving unstable problems.
Much of the DFI system troubleshooting work consists of confirming continuity of the wiring. The DFI parts are assembled and adjusted with precision, and it is impossible to disassemble or repair them.
Troubleshooting the DFI System
•
When checking the DFI parts, use a digital meter which can be read two decimal place voltage or resistance.
○
The DFI part connectors [A] have seals [B], including the
ECU. When measuring the input or output voltage with the connector joined, use the needle adapter set [C]. Insert the needle adapter inside the seal until the needle adapter reaches the terminal.
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
NOTICE
Insert the needle adapter straight along the terminal in the connector to prevent short-circuit between terminals.
•
Make sure that measuring points are correct in the connector, noting the position of the lock [D] and the lead color before measurement. Do not reverse connections of a digital meter.
•
Be careful not to short-circuit the leads of the DFI or electrical system parts by contact between adapters.
•
Connect the power supply harness (option P/No. 26011
-0246) and the battery to the capacitor lead connector, and measure the voltage with the connector joined.
NOTICE
Incorrect, reverse connection or short circuit by needle adapters could damage the DFI or electrical system parts.
○
After measurement, remove the needle adapters and apply sealant to the seals [A] of the connector [B] for waterproofing.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211: 56019-120
•
Always check the connected battery condition before replacing the DFI parts. A fully charged battery is a must for conducting accurate tests of the DFI system.
•
Trouble may involve one or in some cases all items.
Never replace a defective part without determining what
CAUSED the problem. If the problem was caused by some other item or items, they too must be repaired or replaced, or the new replacement part will soon fail again.
•
Measure coil winding resistance when the DFI part is cold
(at room temperature).
•
Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight, and examine leads for signs of burning, fraying, short, etc. Deteriorated leads and bad connections can cause reappearance of problems and unstable operation of the
DFI system.
If any wiring is deteriorated, replace the wiring.
Troubleshooting the DFI System
•
Pull each connectors [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion, dirt, and damage.
If the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it
• is damaged, replace it. Connect them securely.
Check the wiring for continuity.
○
Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which is suspected of being a problem.
○
Connect the hand tester between the ends of the leads.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Set the tester to the × 1
Ω range, and read the tester.
If the tester does not read 0
Ω
, the lead is defective. Replace the lead or the main harness.
○
If both ends of a harness [A] are far apart, ground [B] the one end [C], using a jumper lead [D] and check the continuity between the end [E] and the ground [F]. This enables to check a long harness for continuity. If the harness is open, repair or replace the harness.
○
When checking a harness [A] for short circuit, open one end [B] and check the continuity between the other end
[C] and ground [D]. If there is continuity, the harness has a short circuit to ground, and it must be repaired or replaced.
•
Narrow down suspicious locations by repeating the continuity tests from the ECU connectors.
If no abnormality is found in the wiring or connectors, the
DFI parts are the next likely suspects. Check the part, starting with input and output voltages. However, there is no way to check the ECU itself.
If an abnormality is found, replace the affected DFI part.
If no abnormality is found in the wiring, connectors, and
DFI parts, replace the ECU.
Troubleshooting the DFI System
DFI Diagnosis Flow Chart
Inquiries to Rider
○
Each rider reacts to problems in different ways, so it is important to confirm what kind of symptoms the rider has encountered.
○
Try to find out exactly what problem occurred under exactly what conditions by asking the rider; knowing this information may help you reproduce the problem.
○
The following sample diagnosis sheet will help prevent you from overlooking any areas, and will help you decide if it is a DFI system problem, or a general engine problem.
Troubleshooting the DFI System
Sample Diagnosis Sheet
Rider name
Engine No.
Model
Frame No.
Date problem occurred
Weather
Temperature
Problem frequency
Environment when problem occurred.
□ fine,
□ cloudy,
□ rain,
□ snow,
□ always,
□ other:
□ hot,
□ warm,
□ cold,
□ very cold,
□ always
□ chronic,
□ often,
□ once
Altitude
Orange FI warning indicator light
(LED) (Option)
Starting difficulty
Engine stops
Poor running at low speed
Poor running or no power at high speed
□ normal,
□ high (about 1 000 m or more)
Motorcycle conditions when problem occurred.
□ lights up immediately after starting the engine, and goes off after 2 seconds
(with engine running) (normal).
□ lights up for 2 seconds immediately after starting the engine, and goes off for 3 seconds, and then keeps going on. (with engine running) (DFI problem)
□ unlights (light, ECU or its wiring fault).
□ sometimes lights up (probably wiring fault).
□ no cranking.
□ no spark.
□ no fuel flow (
□ no fuel in tank,
□ no fuel pump sound).
□ engine flooded (do not crank engine with throttle opened, which promotes engine flooding).
□ other:
□ right after starting.
□ when opening throttle grip.
□ when closing throttle grip.
□ when moving off.
□ when stopping the motorcycle.
□ when cruising.
□ other:
□ very low fast idle speed.
□ very low idle speed,
□ very high idle speed,
□ rough idle speed.
□ spark plug loose (tighten it).
□ spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted (adjust it).
□ backfiring.
□ hesitation when acceleration.
□ brake dragging.
□ engine overheating.
□ other:
□ afterfiring.
□ engine oil viscosity too high.
□ clutch slipping.
□ spark plug loose (tighten it).
□ spark plug incorrect (replace it).
□ spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted (remedy it).
□ knocking (fuel poor quality or incorrect).
□ brake dragging.
□ clutch slipping.
□ other:
□
□
□ engine overheating.
engine oil level too high.
engine oil viscosity too high.
DFI System Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE
○
This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties in
DFI system.
○
The ECU may be involved in the DFI electrical and ignition system troubles. If these parts and circuits are checked out good, be sure to check the ECU for ground and power supply. If the ground and power supply are checked good, replace the ECU.
Engine Won’t Turn Over
Symptoms or Possible Causes
Gear position switch trouble
Vehicle-down sensor OFF
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition coil shorted or not in good contact
Ignition coil trouble
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU ground and power supply trouble
ECU trouble
No or little fuel in tank
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Fuel pump not operating
Fuel filter or pump screen clogged
Fuel pressure regulator trouble
Fuel line clogged
Actions (chapter)
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect or Reinstall (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 2).
Replace it with correct plug (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3, 16).
Supply fuel (see Owner’s Manual).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Inspect fuel pressure and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Inspect and repair (see chapter 3).
Poor Running at Low Speed
Symptoms or Possible Causes Actions (chapter)
Spark weak:
Ignition coil shorted or not in good contact
Ignition coil trouble
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Inspect or Reinstall (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 2).
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Little fuel in tank
Replace it with correct plug (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 3, 16).
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct loose
Supply fuel (see Owner’s Manual).
Clean element or inspect sealing (see chapter 3).
Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Throttle body assy holder loose Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Upstream/downstream injector dust seal damage Replace (see chapter 3).
Upstream/downstream injector O-ring damage Replace (see chapter 3).
Fuel filter or pump screen clogged Inspect and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Fuel pressure regulator trouble Inspect fuel pressure and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Fuel line clogged
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Inspect and repair (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
DFI System Troubleshooting Guide
Symptoms or Possible Causes
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Unstable (rough) idling:
Fuel pressure too low or too high
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Engine stalls easily:
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Ignition coil trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Fuel pump trouble
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Fuel pressure too low or too high
Fuel pressure regulator trouble
Fuel line clogged
Poor acceleration:
Fuel pressure too low
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Fuel filter or pump screen clogged
Fuel pump trouble
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Ignition coil trouble
Stumble:
Fuel pressure too low
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Actions (chapter)
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect fuel pressure and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Inspect and repair (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Change fuel. Inspect and clean fuel system (see chapter 3).
Inspect and replace fuel pump (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
DFI System Troubleshooting Guide
Symptoms or Possible Causes
Surge:
Unstable fuel pressure
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Backfiring when deceleration:
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Fuel pressure too low
Fuel pump trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
After fire:
Spark plug burned or gap maladjusted
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Other:
Intermittent any DFI fault and its recovery
Actions (chapter)
Fuel pressure regulator trouble (Inspect and replace fuel pump) or kinked fuel line (Inspect and replace fuel pump) (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Replace (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Check that DFI connectors are clean and tight, and examine leads for signs of burning or fraying
(see chapter 3).
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed
Symptoms or Possible Causes Actions (chapter)
Firing incorrect:
Ignition coil shorted or not in good contact
Ignition coil trouble
Spark plug dirty, broken or gap maladjusted
Inspect or Reinstall (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect and replace (see chapter 2).
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Replace it with correct plug (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 3, 16).
Air cleaner housing loose
Throttle body assy holder loose
Clean element or inspect sealing (see chapter 3).
Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Upstream/downstream injector dust seal damage Replace (see chapter 3).
Water or foreign matter in fuel Change fuel. Inspect and clean fuel system (see chapter 3).
Upstream/downstream injector O-ring damage Replace (see chapter 3).
Upstream/downstream injector clogged
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Inspect and repair (see chapter 3).
Inspect and repair (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
DFI System Troubleshooting Guide
Symptoms or Possible Causes
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Throttle sensor trouble
Knocking:
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Actions (chapter)
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Spark plug incorrect
Ignition coil trouble
ECU trouble
Intake air pressure sensor trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Miscellaneous:
Throttle valve will not fully open
Fuel change (Use the gasoline recommended in the Owner’s Manual).
Replace it with correct plug (see chapter 2).
Inspect (see chapter 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3, 16).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Engine overheating - Water temperature sensor or crankshaft sensor trouble
Exhaust Smokes Excessively:
(Black smokes)
Air cleaner element clogged
Fuel pressure too high
Upstream/downstream injector trouble
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
(Brown smoke)
Air cleaner housing loose
Fuel pressure too low
Water temperature sensor trouble
Intake air temperature sensor trouble
Inspect throttle cables and lever linkage (see chapter 3).
(see Overheating of Troubleshooting Guide in chapter 17)
Clean element (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Reinstall (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Inspect (see chapter 3).
Self-Diagnosis
The self-diagnosis system has three modes and can be switched to another mode by grounding the self-diagnosis terminal.
User Mode
The ECU connected orange FI warning indicator light
(LED) (option) goes on when DFI system and ignition system parts are faulty. In case of serious troubles, the
ECU stops the injection/ignition operation.
Dealer Mode 1
The orange FI warning indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show the problem(s) which the DFI system, and ignition system has at the moment of diagnosis.
Dealer Mode 2
The orange FI warning indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show the problem(s) which the DFI system, and ignition system had in the past.
•
Disconnect the connector [A].
•
Connect the FI warning indicator light assy (option) [A].
•
Disconnect the capacitor lead connector [A].
Self-Diagnosis
•
Connect the power supply harness (option P/No. 26011
-0246) [A] to the capacitor lead connector [B] of the main harness.
•
Connect the power supply harness (option P/No. 26011
-0246) to the 12 V battery [C].
•
The orange FI warning indicator light (LED) will go on for
2 seconds for bulb inspection when the ECU activates.
If the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) does not go on, inspect the harness or replace the FI warning indicator light assy.
NOTE
○
Use a fully charged battery when conducting self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light blinks very slowly or doesn’t blink.
•
Disconnect the self-diagnosis connector [A] and connect an auxiliary lead [B] for grounding to the self-diagnosis terminal [C].
NOTE
○
Keep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during self
-diagnosis.
•
To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 1, ground the self
-diagnosis terminal [A] for more than 2 seconds [B], and then keep it grounded continuously [C].
Ground [D]
•
Open [E]
Count the blinks of the light to read the service code.
○
Keep the lead ground until you finish reading the service code.
•
To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2, ground the self-diagnosis terminal [A] and open it, and then ground the self-diagnosis terminal more than 3 times within 3 seconds [B], and then keep it grounded continuously [C].
Ground [D]
•
Open [E]
Count the blinks of the light to read the service code.
○
Keep the lead ground until you finish reading the service code.
Self-Diagnosis
Self-Diagnosis Flow Chart
Self-Diagnosis
○
Service codes are shown by a series of long and short blinks of the orange FI warning indicator light
(LED) as shown below.
○
Read 10th digit and unit digit as the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) blinks.
○
When there are a number of problems, all the service codes can be stored and the display will begin starting from the lowest number service code in the numerical order. Then after completing all codes, the display is repeated until the self-diagnosis terminal is open. When the self-diagnosis terminal is opened, the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) will go on in one second.
○
If there is no problem no code and the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) blinks with cycle of
0.5 seconds.
○
For example, if two problems occurred in the order of 21, 12, the service codes are displayed from the lowest number in the order listed.
(12
→
21)
→
(12
→
21)
→
· · · (repeated)
○
If the problem is with the following parts, the ECU cannot memorize these problems, the orange FI warning indicator light (LED) doesn’t go on, and no service codes can be displayed.
ECU Power Source Wiring and Ground Wiring (see ECU Power Supply Inspection)
○
Even if the battery or the ECU are disconnected, or the problem is solved, all service codes remain in the ECU.
○
In this model, the problem history cannot be erased. However, the past service code can be erased using the KDS 3 version kit.
Self-Diagnosis
Service
Codes
Orange FI Warning Indicator
Light (LED)
11
Problems
12
13
14
21
25
31
41
42
Throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Intake air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Intake air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Gear position switch malfunction, wiring open or short
Vehicle-down sensor, malfunction, wiring open or short
Downstream injector malfunction, wiring open or short
Upstream injector malfunction, wiring open or short
Fuel pump malfunction, wiring open or short
46
51
Ignition coil malfunction, wiring open or short
Notes:
○
The ECU may be involved in these problems. If all the parts and circuits checked out good, be sure to check the ECU for ground and power supply. If the ground and power supply are checked good, replace the ECU.
○
When no service code is displayed, the electrical parts of the DFI system has no fault, and the mechanical parts of the DFI system and the engine are suspect.
Self-Diagnosis
○
The ECU takes the following measures to prevent engine damage when the DFI or the ignition system parts have troubles.
Service
Codes
Parts
Output Signal Usable
Range or Criteria
Backups by ECU
11
12
Throttle Sensor
Intake Air
Pressure
Sensor
Throttle Sensor Output
Voltage
0.58
∼
3.85 V
Intake Air Pressure
(Absolute)
Pv = 20
∼
106.7 kPa
If the throttle sensor system fails (the signal is out of the usable range, wiring short or open), the ECU locks ignition timing into the ignition timing at closed throttle position and sets the
DFI in the D-J method (1).
Also, the throttle sensor system and intake air pressure fails, the ECU locks ignition timing into the ignition timing at closed throttle position and sets the DFI in the
α
-N method.
If the intake air pressure sensor system fails
(the signal Pv is out of the usable range, wiring short or open), the ECU sets the DFI in the
α
-N method.
Conduct ignition and injection operations whenever crank rotates by 360 degrees.
13
14
Intake Air
Temperature
Sensor
Water
Temperature
Sensor
Intake Air Temperature
–30
∼
+120°C
Water Temperature
–30
∼
+120°C
ECU sets Ta at 26°C.
ECU sets Tw at 80°C.
21
25
31
41
42
46
51
Crankshaft
Sensor
Gear Position
Switch
Vehicle-down
Sensor
Downstream
Injector
Upstream
Injector
Fuel Pump
Ignition Coil
Crankshaft sensor must send 18 signals (output signal) to the ECU at the one cranking.
If crankshaft sensor generates other than 18 signals, the engine stops by itself.
Gear Position Switch
0.469
∼
4.727 V
Vehicle-down Sensor
Output Voltage
0.4
∼
4.4 V
If the gear position switch fails, set the low gear position.
If the vehicle-down sensor system has failures, the ECU shuts off the fuel system and the ignition system. ECU does not backup.
In succession pulse is output from ECU.
In succession pulse is output from ECU.
If the downstream injector break down, wiring short or open, the ECU stops the signal output to both injectors and the fuel delivery is stopped.
If the upstream injector break down, wiring short or open, the ECU stops the signal output to both injectors and the fuel delivery is stopped.
If the pump fails, wiring short or open, the ECU stops the pump operations.
Supply Voltage
6
∼
15 V
ECU sends signals
(output voltage) continuously to the ignition coil.
If the ignition coil fails, the ECU shuts off the signal to the ignition coil.
Self-Diagnosis
Note:
(1) D-J Method and
α
-N Method: When the engine load is light like at idling or low speed, the ECU determines the injection quantity by calculating from the throttle vacuum (intake air pressure sensor output voltage) and engine speed (crankshaft sensor output voltage). This method is called
D-J method (low-speed mode). As the engine speed increases, and the engine load turns middle to heavy, the ECU determines the injection quantity by calculating from the throttle opening (throttle sensor output voltage) and the engine speed. This method is called
α
-N method (high-speed mode).
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
The throttle sensor is a rotating variable resistor that change output voltage according to throttle operating.
The ECU senses this voltage change and determines fuel injection quantity, and ignition timing according to engine rpm, and throttle opening.
Input Terminal [A]
Output Terminal [B]
Ground Terminal [C]
NOTICE
Never drop the throttle sensor [A], especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the throttle sensor can damage it.
NOTE
○
These procedures are explained on the assumption that the intake and exhaust systems of the engine are in good condition.
○
When adjusting the throttle sensor, use a digital voltage meter which can be read the third decimal place. The
DC voltage accuracy must be less than ±0.05% reading and ±4 digits at DC 1 V.
○
Read the manufacture’s instructions thoroughly before using the meter, incorrect values may cause improper adjustments.
•
Remove the throttle body assy (see Throttle Body Assy
Removal).
•
Check the paint on the stop screw [A] and make sure that the stop screw has not been adjusted. If stop screw has been adjusted, throttle body assy has to be replaced.
Don’t tamper with stop screw.
•
Remove:
Throttle Sensor Screw [A]
Throttle Sensor [B]
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
•
Replace:
Throttle Sensor Screw [A]
Throttle Sensor [B]
O-ring [C]
•
Apply engine oil to the new O-ring, and install it to the new throttle sensor.
•
Engage the inner rotor groove [A] with the throttle shaft
[B].
•
Insert the throttle sensor [A] into the throttle body.
○
Set the throttle sensor to the throttle body assy.
•
Turn the throttle sensor counterclockwise [B] until the mounting holes align.
•
Tighten the throttle sensor screw lightly.
•
Connect the measuring adapter [A] between the main harness [B] and throttle sensor [C].
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Throttle Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
W (sensor Y) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor BK) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
•
Adjust the sensor position so that the output voltage is within the specified voltage range.
Throttle Sensor Output Voltage
Standard: DC 0.58
∼
0.62 V
If the input voltage reading shows other than 5 V, calculate a valid output voltage range as follows:
Example:
In the case of an input voltage of 4.75 V
0.58 × 4.75 ÷ 5.00 = 0.55 V
0.62 × 4.75 ÷ 5.00 = 0.59 V
Thus, the valid range is 0.55
∼
0.59 V.
•
Once the sensor is properly adjusted, tighten the throttle sensor screw.
NOTE
○
Take care not to vary the output voltage when tightening the throttle sensor screw.
•
Turn the throttle from closed to full open more than 2 times, and measure the output voltage.
If the output voltage is not within the specified range, readjust the sensor.
•
Install the throttle body assy (see Throttle Body Assy Installation).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Remove:
Rear Frame with Air Cleaner Housing (see Rear Frame
Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Disconnect the throttle sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Throttle Sensor [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Throttle Sensor Input Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (sensor BL) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor BK) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
•
Measure the input voltage with the engine stopped and with the connector joined.
Input Voltage
Standard: DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the output voltage (see Throttle Sensor Output Voltage Inspection).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Throttle Sensor Connector [B]
R/Y lead [C] (ECU terminal 12)
←→
BL lead [D]
GY lead [E] (ECU terminal 17)
←→
BK lead [F]
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
•
Measure the throttle sensor output voltage in the same way as input voltage inspection.
○
Disconnect the throttle sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Throttle Sensor [C]
Digital Meter [D]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
Throttle Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
W (sensor Y) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor BK) lead
•
Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.
•
Check the idle speed to ensure the throttle opening is correct.
Idle Speed
Standard: 2 050 ±50 r/min (rpm)
If the idle speed is out of the specified range, adjust it
(see Idle Speed Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped, and with the connector joined.
Output Voltage
Standard: DC 0.58
∼
0.62 V at idle throttle opening
DC 3.65
∼
3.85 V at full throttle opening (for reference)
NOTE
○
Open the throttle, confirm the output voltage will be rise.
○
The standard voltage refers to the value when the voltage reading at the Input Voltage Inspection shows 5 V exactly.
○
When the input voltage reading shows other than 5 V, derive a voltage range as follows.
Example:
In the case of a input voltage of 4.75 V.
0.58 × 4.75 ÷ 5.00 = 0.55 V
0.62 × 4.75 ÷ 5.00 = 0.59 V
Thus, the valid range is 0.55
∼
0.59 V
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is out of the standard, check the throttle sensor resistance (see Throttle Sensor Resistance Inspection).
If the reading is within the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Throttle Sensor Connector [B]
Y/G lead [C] (ECU terminal 15)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
←→
BK lead [E]
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Throttle Sensor (Service Code 11)
•
Disconnect the throttle sensor connector.
•
Connect a digital meter [A] to the throttle sensor connector
[B].
•
Measure the throttle sensor resistance.
Throttle Sensor Resistance
Connections:
BL lead [C]
← →
BK lead [D]
Standard: 4
∼
6 k
Ω
If the reading is out of the standard, replace the throttle sensor (see Throttle Sensor Replacement).
If the reading is within the standard, but the problem still exists, replace the ECU (see ECU Removal/Installation).
Throttle Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Throttle Sensor
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
NOTICE
Never drop the intake air pressure sensor, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector [A]
•
Slide the rubber damper [B] to outside and remove it with the intake air pressure sensor [C] from the plate [D].
•
Remove the vacuum hose [A] from the throttle body assy.
•
Remove the intake air pressure sensor [B] from the rubber damper [C].
•
Assemble the rubber damper [A] to the intake air pressure sensor [B].
○
Fit the straight edges [C].
•
Install the vacuum hose [A].
•
Install the intake air pressure sensor [B].
•
Connect the intake air pressure sensor connector [C].
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the intake air pressure sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Intake Air Pressure Sensor [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Input Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (sensor R/Y) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the input voltage with the engine stopped and with the connector joined.
Input Voltage
Standard: DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the output voltage (see Intake Air Pressure Sensor Output Voltage Inspection).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector [B]
R/Y lead [C] (ECU terminal 12)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
•
Measure the intake air pressure sensor output voltage in the same way as input voltage inspection.
○
Disconnect the intake air pressure sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Intake Air Pressure Sensor [C]
Digital Meter [D]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
W (sensor BL) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped and with the connector joined.
Output Voltage
Usable Range: DC 3.80
∼
4.20 V at standard atmospheric pressure (101.32 kPa, 76 cmHg)
NOTE
○
The output voltage changes according to local atmospheric pressure.
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is out of the usable range, replace the sensor.
If the reading is within the usable range, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector [B]
BL lead [C] (ECU terminal 27)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
If the wiring is good, check the sensor for various vacuum.
•
Remove the intake air pressure sensor [A] and disconnect the vacuum hose from the sensor.
•
Connect an auxiliary hose [B] to the intake air pressure
• sensor.
Temporarily install the intake air pressure sensor.
○
Connect a digital meter [C], vacuum gauge [D], the fork oil level gauge [E] and the measuring adapter to the intake air pressure sensor.
Special Tools - Fork Oil Level Gauge: 57001-1290
Vacuum Gauge: 57001-1369
Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
W (sensor BL) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the intake air pressure sensor output voltage from various vacuum readings, while pulling the handle of the fork oil level gauge.
•
Check the intake air pressure sensor output voltage, using the following formula and chart.
Suppose:
Pg: Vacuum Pressure (Gauge) of Throttle Body
Pl: Local Atmospheric Pressure (Absolute) measured by a barometer
Pv: Vacuum Pressure (Absolute) of Throttle Body
Vv: Sensor Output Voltage (V) then
Pv = Pl – Pg
For example, suppose the following data is obtained:
Pg = 8 cmHg (Vacuum Gauge Reading)
Pl = 70 cmHg (Barometer Reading)
Vv = 3.2 V (Digital Meter Reading) then
Pv = 70 – 8 = 62 cmHg (Absolute)
Plot this Pv (62 cmHg) at a point [1] on the chart and draw a vertical line through the point. Then, you can get the usable range [2] of the sensor output voltage.
Usable range = 3.08
∼
3.48 V
Plot Vv (3.2 V) on the vertical line.
→
Point [3].
Results: In the chart, Vv is within the usable range and the sensor is normal.
If the reading is out of the usable range, replace the sensor.
If the reading is within the usable range, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply
Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
ID: Idling
Ps: Standard Atmospheric Pressure (Absolute)
Pv: Throttle Vacuum Pressure (Absolute)
ST: Standard of Sensor Output Voltage (V)
TO: Throttle Full Open
UR: Usable Range of Sensor Output Voltage (V)
Vv: Intake Air Pressure Sensor Output Voltage (V) (Digital Meter Reading)
Intake Air Pressure Sensor (Service Code 12)
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Intake Air Pressure Sensor
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Service Code 13)
NOTICE
Never drop the intake air temperature sensor, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.
•
Remove the rear frame with air cleaner housing (see Rear
Frame Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Remove the bolts [A].
•
Pull out the intake air temperature sensor [B].
•
Put the intake air temperature sensor [A] into the air cleaner housing.
○
Face the locks [B] to left side.
•
Tighten the bolts [C] securely.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Intake Air Temperature Sensor [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (sensor LB) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Service Code 13)
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped and the connector joined.
Output Voltage
Standard: About DC 2.28
∼
3.43 V at intake air temperature 20°C (68°F)
NOTE
○
The output voltage changes according to the intake air temperature.
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the ECU for its ground, and power supply (see ECU Power Supply
Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Intake Air Temperature Sensor Connector [B]
LB lead [C] (ECU terminal 19)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
If the wiring is good, check the intake air temperature sensor resistance (see Intake Air Temperature Sensor Resistance Inspection).
•
Remove the intake air temperature sensor (see Intake Air
Temperature Sensor Removal/Installation).
•
Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of machine oil so that the heat-sensitive portion is submerged.
•
Suspend a thermometer [B] with the heat-sensitive portions [C] located in almost the same depth.
NOTE
○
The sensor and thermometer must not touch the container side or bottom.
•
Place the container over a source of heat and gradually raise the temperature of the oil while stirring the oil gently for even temperature.
•
Using a digital meter, measure the internal resistance of the sensor.
Intake Air Temperature Sensor Resistance
Standard: 909
∼
1 363
Ω at 40°C (104°F)
124
∼
186
Ω at 100°C (212°F)
If the reading is out of the standard, replace the sensor.
If the reading is within the standard, but the problem still exists, replace the ECU (see ECU Removal/Installation).
Intake Air Temperature Sensor (Service Code 13)
Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Water Temperature Sensor (Service Code 14)
NOTICE
Never drop the water temperature sensor, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling
System chapter).
•
Remove:
Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Connector [A]
Water Temperature Sensor [B]
•
Replace the O-ring with a new one, and apply grease to it.
•
Install the new O-ring to the water temperature sensor.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Temperature Sensor: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)
•
Fill the engine with coolant and bleed the air from the cooling system (see Coolant Filling in the Cooling System chapter).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the water temperature sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Water Temperature Sensor [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Water Temperature Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (sensor W) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
Water Temperature Sensor (Service Code 14)
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped and the connector joined.
Output Voltage
Standard: About DC 2.80
∼
2.97 V at water temperature
20°C (68°F)
NOTE
○
The output voltage changes according to the coolant temperature in the engine.
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the ECU for its ground, and power supply (see ECU Power Supply
Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Water Temperature Sensor Connector [B]
W lead [C] (ECU terminal 21)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
If the wiring is good, check the water temperature sensor resistance (see Water Temperature Sensor Inspection).
Water Temperature Sensor (Service Code 14)
•
Remove the water temperature sensor (see Water Temperature Sensor Removal/Installation).
•
Suspend the sensor [A] in a container of machine oil so that the heat-sensitive portion and threaded portion are submerged.
•
Suspend a thermometer [B] with heat-sensitive portions
[C] located in almost the same depth.
NOTE
○
The sensor and thermometer must not touch the container side or bottom.
•
Place the container over a source of heat and gradually raise the temperature of the oil while stirring the oil gently for even temperature.
•
Using the hand tester, measure the internal resistance of the sensor.
Water Temperature Sensor Resistance
Temperature Resistance (k
Ω
)
−20°C (−4°F)
0°C (32°F)
40°C (104°F)
100°C (212°F)
*18.80 ±2.37
*(About 6.544)
1.136 ±0.095
0.1553 ±0.0070
*: Reference Information
If the measurement is out of the range, replace the sensor.
If the reading is within the standard, but the problem still exists, replace the ECU (see ECU Removal/Installation).
Water Temperature Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Water Temperature Sensor
Crankshaft Sensor (Service Code 21)
The crankshaft sensor has no power source, and when the engine stops, the crankshaft sensor generates no signals.
•
Refer to the Stator Coil Removal/Installation in the Electrical System chapter.
•
Refer to the Crankshaft Sensor Inspection in the Electrical
System chapter.
If the reading is within the standard, check the peak voltage (see Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Inspection).
•
Refer to the Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage Inspection in the Electrical System chapter.
If the reading is within the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Crankshaft Sensor Connector [B]
G/W lead [C] (ECU terminal 24)
W/Y lead [D] (ECU terminal 23)
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Crankshaft Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Crankshaft Sensor
Gear Position Switch (Service Code 25)
•
Remove:
Left Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
Engine Sprocket Cover and Drive Chain Guide (see Engine Sprocket Removal in the Final Drive chapter)
Gear Position Switch Connector [A]
•
Open the clamps [A].
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Gear Position Switch [B]
•
Remove:
O-ring [A]
Gear Position Switch Fingers [B]
Springs
•
Install the spring [A] on the switch finger [B].
•
Insert the switch finger so that the small diameter [C] is toward the shift drum.
•
Replace the O-ring [D] with a new one, and apply grease to it.
•
Clean the contact points on the position switch.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the gear position switch screws.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Gear Position Switch Screws: 2.9 N·m (0.30 kgf·m,
26 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Gear Position Switch (Service Code 25)
NOTE
○
Be sure the transmission mechanism is good condition.
•
Remove the left radiator shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Disconnect the gear position switch lead connector [A].
•
Set the hand tester [A] to the × 1 k
Ω or × 100
Ω range and connect it to the terminals in the gear position switch lead connector [B] and ground.
Internal Circuit [C]
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
Gear Position Switch Resistance
Gear
Position
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Connections
G/R Lead [D] - Ground BK Lead [E] - Ground
1.43
∼
1.58 k
Ω about 0
Ω
2.23
∼
2.46 k
Ω
0.95
∼
1.06 k
Ω
644
∼
711
Ω
410
∼
453
Ω
241
∼
266
Ω about 0 about 0 about 0 about 0 about 0
Ω
Ω
Ω
Ω
Ω
If the tester reading is not as specified, replace the gear position switch with a new one.
Gear Position Switch Circuit
1. ECU
2. Gear Position Switch
3. Frame Ground 1
Vehicle-down Sensor (Service Code 31)
When the motorcycle is down, the engine stops according to the condition of the below table.
Engine Speed
2 500 rpm or less
2 500 rpm or more
Time
After 30 seconds
After 3 seconds
Engine Condition
Stop
Stop
When the vehicle-down sensor is broken, the engine will stop at 3 seconds after the engine starts.
NOTICE
Never drop the vehicle-down sensor, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the sensor can damage it.
•
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal).
•
Pull the vehicle-down sensor [A] from the bracket.
•
Disconnect the connector [B].
•
The UPPER mark [A] of the sensor should face upward and install the sensor.
•
Connect the connector.
WARNING
Incorrect installation of the vehicle-down sensor could cause sudden loss of engine power.
The rider could lose balance during certain riding situations like leaning over in a turn with the potential for an accident resulting in injury or death. Ensure that the vehicle-down sensor is held in place by the sensor bracket.
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the vehicle-down sensor connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Vehicle-down Sensor [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Vehicle-down Sensor Input Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (sensor R/Y) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
Vehicle-down Sensor (Service Code 31)
•
Measure the input voltage with the engine stopped and with the connector joined.
Input Voltage
Standard: DC 4.75
∼
5.25 V
If the reading is within the standard, check the output voltage (see Vehicle-down Sensor Output Voltage Inspection).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Vehicle-down Sensor Connector [B]
R/Y lead [C] (ECU terminal 12)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
•
Remove the vehicle-down sensor, and connect the measuring adapter [A].
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
Main Harness [B]
Vehicle-down Sensor [C]
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Vehicle-down Sensor Output Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
W (sensor BR) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (sensor GY) lead
Vehicle-down Sensor (Service Code 31)
•
Hold the sensor vertically.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped and with the connector joined.
○
Tilt the sensor 55
∼
75° or more [A] right or left, then hold the sensor almost vertical with the arrow mark [B] pointed up [C].
Output Voltage
Standard: With sensor tilted 55
∼
75° or more right or left: DC 3.7
∼
4.4 V
With sensor arrow mark pointed up: DC
0.4
∼
1.4 V
If the reading is out of the standard, replace the sensor.
If the reading is within the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and sensor connectors.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
←→
Vehicle-down Sensor Connector [B]
BR lead [C] (ECU terminal 16)
GY lead [D] (ECU terminal 17)
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Vehicle-down Sensor Circuit
1. ECU
2. Vehicle-down Sensor
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
NOTICE
Never drop the downstream injector, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the downstream injector can damage it.
•
Remove the throttle body assy (see Throttle Body Assy
Removal).
•
Remove the delivery pipe mounting screw [A].
•
Remove the delivery pipe [B] together with the downstream injector.
NOTE
○
Do not damage the insertion portions of the downstream injector when they are pulled out from the throttle body.
•
Separate the downstream injector [A] from the delivery pipe [B].
•
Replace the O-ring [A] and dust seal [B] with a new one.
•
Apply engine oil to the O-ring and dust seal.
•
Assemble the delivery pipe [A] and downstream injector
[B].
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
•
Fit the projections [A] on the delivery pipe to the hollows
[B] of the throttle body assy.
•
Tighten the delivery pipe mounting screw [A].
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove:
Left Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Start the engine, and let it idle.
•
Apply the standard tip screwdriver [A] to the downstream injector.
•
Put the grip end into your ear, and listen whether the downstream injector is clicking or not.
○
A sound scope can also be used.
○
The click interval becomes shorter as the engine speed rises.
If the downstream injector click at a regular intervals, the downstream injector is normal.
•
Stop the engine.
If downstream injector does not click, check the downstream injector resistance (see Downstream Injector Resistance Inspection).
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Downstream Injector Connector [A]
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
•
Connect a digital meter to the terminals in downstream injector [A].
•
Measure the downstream injector resistance.
Downstream Injector Resistance
Connections: R/W terminal
←→
BL/R terminal
Standard: About 11.7
∼
12.3
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
If the reading is out of the standard, replace the downstream injector.
If the reading is within the standard, check the power supply voltage (see Downstream Injector Power Supply Voltage Inspection).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the downstream injector connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Downstream Injector [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter lead.
Downstream Injector Power Supply Voltage
Connections the Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (Downstream Injector R/W) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
Battery (–) Terminal
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the power supply voltage with the engine stopped.
Power Supply Voltage
Standard: Battery Voltage
If the voltage is out of the standard, check the power supply wiring (see Downstream Injector Circuit).
If the reading is within the standard, check the output voltage (see Downstream Injector Output Voltage Inspection).
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Remove the ECU (see ECU Removal).
○
Do not disconnect the ECU connector.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Using the needle adapter set and connect a digital meter
[A] to the ECU connector [B].
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
Downstream Injector Output Voltage
Connections to ECU Connector:
Digital Meter (+)
→
BL/R lead (ECU terminal 4)
Digital Meter (–)
→
Battery (–) Terminal
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped with the connector jointed.
Output Voltage
Standard: Battery Voltage
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and downstream injector connector.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
← →
Downstream Injector
Connector [B]
BL/R lead [C] (ECU terminal 4)
If the wiring good, check the ECU ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
○
Place a piece of cloth around the fuel outlet pipe of fuel pump and delivery pipe of throttle body assy.
•
Check the downstream injector fuel line for leakage as follows:
○
Apply engine oil to the delivery pipe lightly.
○
Connect a commercially available vacuum/pressure pump [A] to the delivery pipe [B] with the fuel hose [C].
○
Hold both ends with the clamps [D].
•
Apply a soap and water solution to the areas [E].
•
Watching the pressure gauge, squeeze the pump lever
[F], and build up the pressure until the pressure reaches the maximum pressure.
Fuel Line Maximum Pressure
Standard: 300 kPa (3.06 kgf/cm², 44 psi)
NOTICE
During pressure testing, do not exceed the maximum pressure for which the system is designed.
○
Watch the gauge for at least 6 seconds.
If the pressure holds steady, the fuel line is good.
If the pressure drops at once, or if bubbles are found in the area, the fuel line is leaking. Replace the delivery pipe assy, downstream injector and related parts.
○
Repeat the leak test, and check the fuel line for no leakage.
•
Install:
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Installation)
•
Start the engine, check the fuel leakage.
Downstream Injector (Service Code 41)
Downstream Injector Circuit
1. ECU
2. Downstream Injector
3. Frame Ground 1
4. Capacitor
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
NOTICE
Never drop the upstream injector, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the upstream injector can damage it.
•
Remove:
Rear Frame with Air Cleaner Housing (see Rear Frame
Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Remove the delivery joint bolt [A].
•
Remove the delivery pipe [B] together with the upstream injector.
•
Separate the upstream injector [A] from the delivery pipe
[B].
•
Replace the dust seal [A] and O-ring [B] with a new one.
•
Assemble the delivery pipe [A] and upstream injector [B].
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
•
Fit the projection [A] on the delivery pipe to the hollow [B] of the air cleaner housing.
○
Face the connector side to left side.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the delivery joint bolt [A].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Delivery Joint Bolt: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Left Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
Upstream Injector Connector [A]
•
Connect a digital meter to the terminals in upstream injector [A].
•
Measure the upstream injector resistance.
Upstream Injector Resistance
Connections: R/W terminal
←→
BL/BK terminal
Standard: About 11.7
∼
12.3
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
If the reading is out of the standard, replace the upstream injector.
If the reading is within the standard, check the power supply voltage (see Upstream Injector Power Supply Voltage
Inspection).
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Disconnect the upstream injector connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Upstream Injector [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter lead.
Upstream Injector Power Supply Voltage
Connections the Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (Upstream Injector R/W) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
Battery (–) Terminal
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Measure the power supply voltage with the engine stopped.
Power Supply Voltage
Standard: Battery Voltage
If the voltage is out of the standard, check the power supply wiring (see Upstream Injector Circuit).
If the reading is within the standard, check the output voltage (see Upstream Injector Output Voltage Inspection).
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Remove the ECU (see ECU Removal).
○
Do not disconnect the ECU connector.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Using the needle adapter set and connect a digital meter
[A] to the ECU connector [B].
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
Upstream Injector Output Voltage
Connections to ECU Connector:
Digital Meter (+)
→
BL/BK lead (ECU terminal 8)
Digital Meter (–)
→
Battery (–) Terminal
•
Measure the output voltage with the engine stopped with the connector jointed.
Output Voltage
Standard: Battery Voltage
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the reading is within the standard, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
If the reading is out of the standard, remove the ECU and check the wiring for continuity between the main harness connectors.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Disconnect the ECU and upstream injector connector.
Wiring Continuity Inspection
ECU Connector [A]
← →
Upstream Injector Connector
[B]
BL/BK lead [C] (ECU terminal 8)
If the wiring good, check the ECU ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply good, replace the ECU
•
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
○
Install the upstream injector connector boot so that notch side faces inside.
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
•
Remove:
Fuel Hose (see Rear Frame Removal in the Frame chapter)
○
Place a piece of cloth around the delivery pipe of air cleaner housing.
•
Check the upstream injector fuel line for leakage as follows:
○
Apply engine oil to the delivery pipe lightly.
○
Connect a commercially available vacuum/pressure pump [A] to the delivery pipe [B] with the fuel hose [C].
○
Hold both ends with the clamps [D].
•
Apply a soap and water solution to the areas [E].
•
Watching the pressure gauge, squeeze the pump lever
[F], and build up the pressure until the pressure reaches the maximum pressure.
Fuel Line Maximum Pressure
Standard: 300 kPa (3.06 kgf/cm², 44 psi)
NOTICE
During pressure testing, do not exceed the maximum pressure for which the system is designed.
○
Watch the gauge for at least 6 seconds.
If the pressure holds steady, the fuel line is good.
If the pressure drops at once, or if bubbles are found in the area, the fuel line is leaking. Replace the delivery pipe assy, upstream injector and related parts.
○
Repeat the leak test, and check the fuel line for no leakage.
•
Install:
Fuel Hose (see Rear Frame Installation in the Frame chapter)
•
Start the engine, check the fuel leakage.
Upstream Injector (Service Code 42)
Upstream Injector Circuit
1. ECU
2. Upstream Injector
3. Frame Ground 1
4. Capacitor
Fuel Pump (Service Code 46)
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
NOTICE
Never drop the fuel pump, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the pump can damage it.
•
Draw the fuel out from the fuel tank with a commercially available electric pump.
•
Remove the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Removal).
○
Be careful of fuel spillage from the fuel tank since fuel still remains in the fuel tank and fuel pump. Plug the fuel pipe of the fuel tank.
•
Turn the fuel tank upside down.
•
Loosen the fuel pump bolts evenly following the specified loosening sequence [1
∼
5], and remove the fuel pump
[A].
NOTICE
Do not pull the leads of the fuel pump. If they are pulled, the lead terminals may be damaged.
•
Discard the fuel pump gasket [A].
•
Remove the dirt or dust from the fuel pump [A] by lightly applying compressed air.
•
Replace the fuel pump gasket with a new one.
Fuel Pump (Service Code 46)
•
Install the fuel pump [A] to the fuel tank.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the fuel pump bolts.
•
Gradually tighten the fuel pump bolts evenly following the specified tightening sequence [1
∼
6].
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Make sure that the fuel pump operates (make light sounds) for 5 seconds, and then stops.
•
Disconnect the power supply harness.
If the pump does not operate as described above, check the operating voltage (see Fuel Pump Operating Voltage
Inspection).
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Remove the radiator shrouds (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Remove the fuel tank bolt and band.
•
Lift the fuel tank and hold it.
•
Disconnect the fuel pump lead connector and connect the measuring adapter [A] between these connectors.
Main Harness [B]
Fuel Pump [C]
Special Tool - Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
•
Connect a digital meter [D] to the measuring adapter leads.
Fuel Pump Operating Voltage
Connections to Adapter:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R (pump R) lead
Digital Meter (–)
→
BK (pump BK) lead
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
Fuel Pump (Service Code 46)
•
Measure the operating voltage with engine stopped and with the connector joined.
Operating Voltage
Standard: Battery Voltage
If the reading is not battery voltage, check the wiring for continuity (see Fuel Pump Circuit).
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
If the reading is in specification, but the fuel pump does not operate, replace the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal/Installation).
○
The pressure regulator [A] is built into the fuel pump and can not be removed.
○
The fuel filter [A] is built into the pump and can not be cleaned or checked.
If the fuel filter is suspected of clogging or being damaged, replace it with the fuel pump as a set.
Fuel Pump (Service Code 46)
Fuel Pump Circuit
1. ECU
2. Capacitor
3. Fuel Pump
4. Frame Ground 1
Ignition Coil (Service Code 51)
•
Refer to the Ignition Coil Removal/Installation in the Electrical System chapter.
•
Refer to the Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage Check in the Electrical System chapter.
If the peak voltage is much lower than standard, check the wiring for continuity (see Ignition Coil Circuit).
If the wiring is good, check the ECU for its ground and power supply (see ECU Power Supply Inspection).
If the ground and power supply are good, replace the ECU
(see ECU Removal/Installation).
Ignition Coil Circuit
1. ECU
2. Capacitor
3. Frame Ground 1
4. Frame Ground 2
5. Ignition Coil
6. Spark Plug
ECU
○
Most countries have their own regulations, so each ECU has different characteristic. So, do not confuse ECU with each other and use only the ECU for your model. Otherwise, the motorcycle cannot clear the regulation.
ECU Identification
Part Number [A]
21175-0782
21175-0792
21175-0800
US, CA
AU, EUR
BR
Specification
NOTICE
Never drop the ECU, especially on a hard surface.
Such a shock to the ECU can damage it.
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Bolt [A]
Connector Bracket [B]
•
Disconnect the ECU connector [A].
•
Pull the ECU [B] together with rubber protector.
•
Install the ECU [A] to the rubber protector [B].
ECU
•
Insert the slits [A] of the rubber protector to the ECU bracket.
•
Connect the ECU connector [B].
•
Remove the number plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Visually inspect the ECU connector.
If the connector is clogged with mud or dust, blow it off with compressed air.
•
Remove the ECU (see ECU Removal).
•
Visually inspect the terminals [A] of the ECU connectors.
If the terminals of the main harness connector are damaged, replace the main harness.
If the terminals of the ECU connector are damaged, replace the ECU.
•
Disconnect the capacitor lead connector [A].
•
Set the hand tester [A] to the × 1
Ω range and check the following wiring for continuity.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
ECU Grounding Inspection
Capacitor Connector [B] (BK/W lead)
←→
ECU Connector [C]
BK/Y lead [D] (ECU terminal 6)
BK/Y lead [E] (ECU terminal 22)
BK/W lead [F] (ECU terminal 33)
Criteria: 0
Ω
If no continuity, check the connector or main harness, and repair or replace them if necessary.
If the wiring is good, check the power supply voltage of the ECU.
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Connect the ECU connector.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
ECU
•
Connect a digital meter [A] to the ECU connector [B] with the needle adapter set.
Special Tool - Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
ECU Power Supply Inspection
Connections:
Digital Meter (+)
→
R/W lead (ECU terminal 1)
Digital Meter (–)
→
Battery (–) Terminal
Standard:
When battery is not connected: DC 0 V
When battery is connected: Battery Voltage
If the reading is out of the specification, check the following.
Power Supply Wiring (see ECU Power Supply Circuit)
If the wiring is good, replace the ECU (see ECU Removal/Installation).
ECU Power Supply Circuit
1. ECU
2. Capacitor
3. Frame Ground 1
Fuel Line
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
○
Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel outlet pipe of the fuel pump and the delivery pipe of the throttle body assy.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under certain conditions and can cause severe burns. Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled fuel must be completely wiped up immediately. When the fuel hose is disconnected, fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe because of residual pressure. Cover the hose connection with a piece of clean cloth to prevent fuel spillage.
•
Install the fuel pressure gauge adapter [A] and fuel hoses
(Special Tool: 57001-1607) [B] between the fuel pump and throttle body assy.
•
Secure the fuel hoses with the clamps.
•
Connect the pressure gauge [C] to the fuel pressure gauge adapter.
Special Tools - Oil Pressure Gauge, 5 kgf/cm²: 57001-125
Fuel Pressure Gauge Adapter: 57001-1593
Fuel Hose: 57001-1607
WARNING
Fuel is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions resulting in serious injury or death. Do not try to start the engine with the fuel hoses disconnected.
•
Connect the fuel pump lead connector.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
NOTE
○
Inspect the fuel leakage from the connected portion of the special tools.
NOTICE
Do not drive the fuel pump without the fuel in the fuel tank. If the fuel pump is driven without the fuel, it may be damaged.
Fuel Line
•
Start the engine, and let it idle.
•
Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling.
Fuel Pressure
Standard: 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm², 43 psi) with engine idling
NOTE
○
The gauge needle will fluctuate. Read the pressure at the average of the maximum and minimum indications.
•
Stop the engine.
If the fuel pressure is much higher than specified, replace the fuel pump because the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump have been clogged or stuck.
If the fuel pressure is much lower than specified, check the following.
Fuel Line Leakage (see Downstream/Upstream Injector
Fuel Line Inspection)
Amount of Fuel Flow (see Fuel Flow Rate Inspection)
•
After above checks, measure the fuel pressure again.
•
Remove the fuel pressure gauge, hoses and adapter.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Start the engine and check for fuel leakage.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
NOTE
○
Be sure the battery is fully charged.
•
Wait until the engine cools down.
•
Prepare a fuel hose (Special Tool: 57001-1607) and a measuring cylinder.
Special Tool - Fuel Hose: 57001-1607
•
Remove the radiator shrouds (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Remove the fuel tank bolt and band (see Fuel Tank Removal).
Fuel Line
•
Open the fuel tank cap [A] to lower the pressure in the tank.
•
Remove the fuel hose from the fuel pump (see Fuel Tank
Removal).
○
Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel outlet pipe of the fuel pump.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under certain conditions and can cause severe burns. Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled fuel must be completely wiped up immediately. When the fuel hose is disconnected, fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe because of residual pressure. Cover the hose connection with a piece of clean cloth to prevent fuel spillage.
•
Connect the prepared fuel hose [A] to the fuel outlet pipe.
•
Secure the fuel hose with a clamp.
•
Insert the fuel hose into the measuring cylinder [B].
WARNING
Wipe off spilled out fuel immediately.
Be sure to hold the measuring cylinder vertical.
•
Close the fuel tank cap.
•
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
○
Then the fuel pump operates and fuel is discharged.
NOTICE
Do not operate the fuel pump without fuel in the fuel tank. If the fuel pump is driven without fuel, it may be damaged.
•
Measure the discharge for 5 seconds.
○
Repeat this operation several times.
Amount of Fuel Flow
Standard: 40 mL (1.4 US oz.) or more for 5 seconds
If the fuel flow is much less than the specified, replace the fuel pump (see Fuel Pump Removal/Installation).
•
Install the fuel tank (see Fuel Tank Installation).
•
Start the engine and check for fuel leakage.
Throttle Grip and Cable
If the throttle grip has excessive free play due to cable stretch or misadjustment, there will be a delay in throttle response. Also, the throttle valve may not open fully at full throttle. On the other hand, if the throttle grip has no play, the throttle will be hard to control, and the idle speed will be erratic. Check the throttle grip play periodically in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, and adjust the play if necessary.
The throttle cable routing is shown in Cable, Wire, and
Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Refer to the Throttle Grip Free Play Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Slide out the dust cover [A] and cable housing dust cover
[B].
•
Remove the screws [C].
•
Separate the throttle cable housing [D].
•
Free the tips [A] from the grip [B].
•
Remove:
Throttle Body Assy (see Throttle Body Assy Removal)
Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts [A]
Throttle Pulley Cover [B]
Throttle Grip and Cable
•
Loosen the locknut [A] and bolts [B].
•
Remove the cables [C] from the throttle body assy.
•
Free the tips [D] from the pulley.
•
Pull out the cables from the frame.
•
Lubricate the throttle cables (see Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Apply grease to the throttle cable tips.
•
Install the throttle cable tips [A].
•
Install the bolts [B].
○
The accelerator cable has washer, the bent side faces inside.
•
While holding the decelerator cable bolt, tighten the throttle cable locknut [C] securely.
Torque - Throttle Cable Bolts: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m, 27 in·lb)
•
Install the throttle pulley cover.
○
Fit the projection [A] to the groove [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Throttle Pulley Cover Bolts: 3.4 N·m (0.35 kgf·m,
30 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Torque - Throttle Case Mounting Screws: 3.8 N·m (0.39
kgf·m, 34 in·lb)
•
Install the throttle cables in accordance with the Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
After the installation, adjust each cable properly (see
Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
WARNING
Operation with improperly adjusted, incorrectly routed or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Follow the service manual to make sure to correct any of these conditions.
•
Whenever the throttle cable is removed or in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, lubricate the these cables (see Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
○
Apply a thin coating of grease to the cable upper end.
○
Use a commercially available pressure cable lubricator to lubricate these cables.
•
Refer to the Cable Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Throttle Body Assy
•
Refer to the Idle Speed Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Throttle Body Cleaning in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
NOTICE
Never drop the throttle body assy, especially on a hard surface. Such a shock to the throttle body assy can damage it.
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal)
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
Air Cleaner Housing with Rear Frame (see Rear Frame
Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Disconnect:
Intake Air Pressure Sensor Connector [A]
Downstream Injector Connector [B]
Throttle Sensor Connector [C]
•
Loosen the clamp screw [A].
•
Pull the throttle body assy backward.
•
Remove the throttle cable lower ends (see Throttle Cable
Replacement).
•
Install the throttle body assy so that fit the projection [A] on throttle body assy and groove [B] of the throttle body holder.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
NOTE
○
For easily starting the engine, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness (see Self-diagnosis Procedures).
○
When the battery is connected, the fuel pump is driven and the pressure of the fuel line increases.
Throttle Body Assy
•
Remove:
Throttle Body Assy (see Throttle Body Assy Removal)
Intake Air Pressure Sensor [A] (see Intake Air Pressure
Sensor Removal)
Downstream Injector [B] (see Downstream Injector Removal)
Throttle Sensor [C] (see Throttle Sensor Replacement)
Idle Adjusting Screw Assy [D]
•
Remove:
Screw [A]
Delivery Pipe [B]
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Plate [B]
•
Replace the O-ring [A] of delivery pipe [B] with a new one.
•
Apply engine oil to the new O-ring.
•
Install the delivery pipe in the joint [C], and tighten the screw securely.
•
Install the plate so that fit the hollow [A] on the plate and projection [B] on the throttle body assy.
•
Tighten the screws securely.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Air Cleaner
•
Remove the rear frame (see Rear Frame Removal in the
Frame chapter).
•
Remove the air cleaner housing bolts [A].
•
Take the air cleaner housing off the rear frame.
•
Assemble the air cleaner housing (see Exploded View section).
•
Install the air cleaner element (see Air Cleaner Element
Installation in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the air cleaner housing to the rear frame.
○
Insert the rear frame [A] to the holes [B] of the guard.
•
Tighten the bolts [C] securely.
•
Install the rear frame (see Rear Frame Installation in the
Frame chapter).
•
Refer to the Air Cleaner Element Cleaning and Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Air Cleaner Element Cleaning and Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Fuel Tank
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Radiator Shrouds (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Fuel Tank Bolt [A]
Band [B]
•
Draw the fuel out from the fuel tank with a commercially available pump [A].
○
Use a soft plastic hose [B] as a pump intake hose in order to insert the hose smoothly.
○
Put the hose through the fill opening [C] into the tank and draw the fuel out.
WARNING
Spilled fuel is flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. The fuel can not be removed completely from the fuel tank. Be careful for remained fuel spillage.
•
Lift up the fuel tank, and disconnect the fuel pump lead connector [A].
•
Be sure to place a piece of cloth around the fuel hose joint.
•
Wipe off the dirt of the surface [A] around the connection using a cloth or a soft brush.
Fuel Tank
When removing with standard tip screwdriver:
•
Insert the standard tip screwdriver [A] into the slit [B] on the joint lock [C].
•
Turn the driver to disconnect the joint lock.
When removing with fingers:
•
Open and push up [A] the joint lock [B] with your fingers.
NOTICE
Prying or excessively widening the joint lock ends for fuel hose removal will permanently deform the joint lock, resulting in a loose or incomplete lock that may allow fuel to leak and create the potential for a fire explosion. To prevent fire or explosion from a damaged joint lock, do not pry or excessively widen the joint lock ends when removing the fuel hose. The joint lock has a retaining edge that locks around the housing.
•
Pull the fuel hose joint [A] out of the fuel outlet pipe.
WARNING
Fuel is flammable and explosive under certain conditions and can cause severe burns. Be prepared for fuel spillage; any spilled fuel must be completely wiped up immediately. When the fuel hose is disconnected, fuel spills out from the hose and the pipe because of residual pressure. Cover the hose connection with a piece of clean cloth to prevent fuel spillage.
•
•
Close the fuel tank cap.
Remove the fuel tank, and place a it on a flat surface.
○
Do not apply the load to the fuel outlet pipe of the fuel pump.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions, creating the potential for serious burns. Store the fuel tank in an area which is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks. Do not smoke in this area. Place the fuel tank on a flat surface and plug the fuel pipes to prevent fuel leakage.
Fuel Tank
•
Clean the pipe [A].
•
Cover the pipe and hose joint [B] with the vinyl bags [C] to keep them clean.
•
Note the above WARNING (see Fuel Tank Removal).
•
Run the hoses correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Check that the dampers [A] are in place on the frame.
If the dampers are damaged or deteriorated, replace it.
○
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean any oil or dirt that may be on the adhesive cement coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
If necessary, apply adhesive cement to the underside of the dampers, and stick them.
•
Remove the vinyl bags on the pipe and hose joint.
•
Check that there are no flaws, burrs, and adhesion of foreign materials on fuel outlet pipe [A].
•
Check the joint lock for deformation and wear.
•
If the joint lock is deformed, replace the fuel hose with a new one.
•
Apply engine oil to the fuel outlet pipe [A] lightly.
•
Insert [A] the fuel hose joint [B] straight onto the fuel outlet pipe until the hose joint clicks.
•
Push [C] the joint lock [D].
Fuel Tank
•
Push and pull [A] the fuel hose joint back and forth more than two times, and make sure it is locked and does not come off.
WARNING
Leaking fuel can cause a fire or explosion resulting in serious burns. Make sure the hose joint is installed correctly on the delivery pipe by sliding the joint.
If it comes off, reinstall the hose joint.
•
Connect the fuel pump lead connector.
•
Hook the band to the fuel tank.
•
Tighten the fuel tank bolt.
•
After installing the fuel tank, make sure that both throttle cables [A] (outer) move slightly by pulling them back and forth in the upper space of the right side of the fuel tank
[B]. Check that both throttle cables run under the frame
(right side) [C].
NOTE
○
Check the fuel hose position. If the fuel hose interferes with the cylinder head cover, move the fuel hose upward.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
○
Insert the fuel tank breather hose into the steering stem hole.
NOTE
○
For easily starting the engine, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness (see Self-diagnosis Procedures).
○
When the battery is connected, the fuel pump is driven and the pressure of the fuel line increases.
•
Refer to the Fuel Tank Cleaning in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Table of Contents
4
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Water Hose Clamp Screws
2 Water Pipe Bolt
3 Water Pump Cover Bolts (L = 55 mm)
4 Water Pump Impeller Bolt
5 Water Pump Cover Bolts (L = 30, 65 mm)
6 Coolant Drain Bolt
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
WL: Apply soap and water solution.
Torque
N·m kgf·m ft·lb
3.0
9.8
0.31
1.0
27 in·lb
87 in·lb
9.8
7.0
9.8
7.0
1.0
0.71
1.0
0.71
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
Remarks
L
Specifications
Item
Recommended Coolant
Type
Color
Mixed Ratio
Freezing Point
Total Amount
Radiator
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure
Standard
Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Green
Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
–35°C (–31°F)
1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
93
∼
123 kPa (0.95
∼
1.25 kgf/cm², 13
∼
18 psi)
Special Tool
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Coolant
•
Refer to the Coolant Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Coolant Deterioration Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
WARNING
Coolant can be extremely hot and cause severe burns, is toxic and very slippery. Do not remove the radiator cap or attempt to change the coolant when the engine is hot; allow it cool completely.
Immediately wipe any spilled coolant from tires, frame, engine or other painted parts. Do not ingest coolant.
NOTICE
The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life.
•
Remove:
Right Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
Radiator Cap [A]
NOTE
○
Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. Then push down and turn it further in the same direction and remove the cap.
•
Place a container under the coolant drain bolt [A].
•
Remove the drain bolt to drain the coolant.
•
Inspect the old coolant (see Coolant Deterioration Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Coolant
NOTICE
Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminum engines and radiators in accordance with the instruction of the manufacture’s. Soft or distilled water must be used with the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in the cooling system.
If hard water is used in the system, it causes scale accumulation in the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the cooling system.
Recommended Coolant
Type: Permanent type antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators)
Color:
Mixed Ratio:
Green
Soft water 50%, coolant 50%
Freezing Point: −35°C (−31°F)
Total Amount: 1.2 L (1.3 US qt)
•
Replace the drain bolt gasket with a new one.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Coolant Drain Bolt: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
•
Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck
[A] with coolant [B], and install the cap.
○
Lean the motorcycle slightly so that the filler neck is located uppermost in order to exhaust the air accumulated in the radiator.
NOTE
○
Pour in the coolant slowly so that it can expel the air from the engine and radiator.
○
The radiator cap must be installed in two steps. First turn the cap clockwise to the first stop. Then push down on it and turn it the rest of the way.
•
Check the cooling system for leaks.
•
Start the engine, warm up the engine thoroughly, and then stop the engine.
•
Wait until the engine cools down.
•
Remove the radiator cap.
•
Check the coolant level (see Coolant Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
If the coolant level is low, add coolant up to the bottom of the filler neck.
•
Install the radiator cap.
•
Check the cooling system for leaks.
Coolant
NOTICE
During pressure testing, do not exceed the pressure for which the system is designed to work. The maximum pressure is 123 kPa (1.25 kgf/cm², 18 psi).
•
Remove the radiator cap, and install a cooling system pressure tester [A] and adapter [B] on the radiator filler neck [C].
NOTE
○
Wet the adapter cap sealing surfaces with water or coolant to prevent pressure leaks.
•
Build up pressure in the system carefully until the pressure reaches 123 kPa (1.25 kgf/cm², 18 psi).
•
Watch the gauge for at least 6 seconds.
If the pressure holds steady, the cooling system is all right.
If the pressure drops and no external source is found, check for internal leaks. Check the cylinder head gasket for leaks.
•
Remove the pressure tester, replenish the coolant, and install the radiator cap.
Over a period of time, the cooling system accumulates rust, scale, and lime in the water jacket and radiator. When this accumulation is suspected or observed, flush the cooling system. If this accumulation is not removed, it will clog up the water passages and considerably reduce the efficiency of the cooling system.
•
Drain the cooling system (see Coolant Draining).
•
Fill the cooling system with fresh water mixed with a flushing compound.
NOTICE
Avoid the use of a flushing compound which is harmful to the aluminum engine and radiators.
Carefully follow the instructions supplied by the manufacture of the cleaning product.
•
Warm up the engine, and run it at normal operating temperature for about 10 minutes.
•
Stop the engine, and drain the cooling system after the coolant cools down.
•
Fill the system with fresh water.
•
Warm up the engine and drain the system after the coolant cools down.
•
Repeat the previous two steps once more.
•
Fill the system with a permanent type coolant, and bleed the air from the system (see Air Bleeding).
Water Pump
•
Remove the oil filter (see Oil Filter Change in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
○
Drain the engine oil from the water pump cover.
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining).
•
Remove the water pipe bolt [A], and disconnect the water pipe [B].
•
Remove the water pump cover bolts [C].
•
Using the pry points [A], remove the pump cover [B].
•
Install:
Dowel Pins [A]
•
Replace the pump cover gasket [B] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the pump cover gasket.
•
Install the water pump cover.
•
Replace the washers [A] with new ones.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the 55 mm (2.2
in.) bolts [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Coolant Drain Bolt: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
•
Replace the water pipe O-ring [A] with a new one.
•
Apply soap and water solution to the new O-ring.
•
Insert the water pipe [B] straightly into the hole of the water pump cover.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pipe Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Install the oil filter (see Oil Filter Change in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
•
Fill the coolant (see Coolant Filling).
•
Bleed the air from the cooling system (see Air Bleeding).
•
Check the engine oil level and add the engine oil (see
Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Water Pump
•
Remove:
Water Pump Cover (see Water Pump Cover Removal)
•
Remove the impeller bolt [A] and take out the impeller [B] and washer.
•
Install the washer [A] and impeller [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Impeller Bolt: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
•
Install the water pump cover (see Water Pump Cover Installation).
•
Visually check the impeller [A].
If the surface is corroded, or if the blades [B] are damaged, replace the impeller.
•
Check the drainage outlet passage [A] at the bottom of the right engine cover for coolant leaks.
If the oil seal is damaged, the coolant leaks through the seal and drains through the passage. Replace the oil seals.
•
Remove:
Water Pump Cover (see Water Pump Cover Removal)
Impeller (see Impeller Removal)
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
•
Pull out the water pump gear [A] together with shaft.
Water Pump
•
Press in the water pump gear shaft [A] to the gear [B] until it is bottomed.
•
Apply grease to the water pump gear shaft.
•
Install the gear shaft from bearing side [C].
NOTICE
Be sure to apply grease to the water pump shaft when installing. If it is installed dry, the seals may wear excessively.
•
Install the impeller and check to see that the impeller turn freely.
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Water Pump Gear (see Water Pump Gear Removal)
•
Insert a bar [A] into the water pump shaft hole from the outside.
•
Tapping evenly around the inner race to remove the ball bearing [B].
•
Remove the oil seal [C] from the right engine cover in the same way as ball bearing removal.
•
Insert a bar [A] into the water pump shaft hole from the inside.
•
Remove the oil seal [B] by tapping [C] evenly around the seal lips.
NOTICE
If the oil seal or ball bearing is removed, replace all of them with new ones at the same time.
•
Replace the oil seals with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seal lips.
•
Press in the oil seals direction as shown.
○
Press in the oil seal using a bearing driver set so that the seal surface is flush with the surface of the right engine cover.
Flat Side [A]
Water Pump Oil Seals [B]
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Press the ball bearing [C] into the hole until the face of the bearing is even with the end of the hole.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Radiator
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining).
•
Remove:
Radiator Shrouds (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the
Frame chapter)
•
Remove the capacitor [A] (see Capacitor Removal in the
Electrical System chapter).
•
Loosen:
Water Hose Clamp Screws [B]
•
Slide the clamp [C].
•
Pull the water hoses [D] off the radiator.
•
Remove:
Radiator Screen Bolt [E]
Left Radiator Screen [F]
○
Clear the projection [G] from the hole.
•
Remove:
Radiator Mounting Bolts [A], Clamps and Washers
Left Radiator [B]
•
Loosen:
Water Hose Clamp Screws [A]
•
Slide the clamp [B].
•
Pull the water hoses [C] off the radiator.
•
Remove:
Radiator Screen Bolt [D]
Right Radiator Screen [E]
○
Clear the projection [F] from the hole.
•
Remove:
Radiator Mounting Bolts [A] and Washers
Overflow Hose [B]
Right Radiator [C]
Radiator
•
Install:
Radiators
Washers
Clutch Cable Clamps [A] (Left Side)
•
Tighten the radiator mounting bolts securely.
•
Run the overflow hose and water hoses correctly (see
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
•
Install the radiator screens on both sides.
○
Fit the projections [A] and holes [B].
•
Tighten the radiator screen bolts securely.
•
Fill the coolant (see Coolant Filling).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Check the radiator core.
If there are obstructions to air flow, remove them.
If the corrugated fins [A] are deformed, carefully straighten them with the standard tip screwdriver.
NOTICE
Do not tear the radiator tubes while straightening the fins.
If the air passages of the radiator core are blocked more than 20% by unremovable obstructions or irreparably deformed fins, replace the radiator with a new one.
NOTICE
When cleaning the radiator with steam cleaner, be careful of the following to prevent radiator damage.
Keep the steam gun [A] away more than 0.5 m (1.64
ft) [B] from the radiator core. Hold the steam gun perpendicular to the core surface. Run the steam gun following the core fin direction [C].
Radiator
•
Check the top and bottom valve seals [A] of the radiator cap, and the condition of the valve spring [B].
If any one of them shows visible damage, replace the cap.
•
Wet the top and bottom valve seals with water or coolant to prevent pressure leaks.
•
Install the cap [A] on a cooling system pressure tester [B].
•
Watching the pressure gauge, slowly pump the pressure tester to build up the pressure. The gauge hand must remain within the relief pressure range in the table below at least 6 seconds. Continue to pump the tester until the relief valve opens, indicated by the gauge hand flicking downward. The relief valve must open within the specified range.
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure
Standard: 93
∼
123 kPa (0.95
∼
1.25 kgf/cm², 13
∼
18 psi)
If the cap cannot hold the pressure, or if the relief pressure is too high or too low, replace the cap with a new one.
•
Check the radiator filler neck for signs of damage.
•
Check the condition of the top and bottom sealing seats
[A] in the filler neck. They must be smooth and clean for the radiator cap to function properly.
•
Refer to the Water Hoses and Connections Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Install the water hoses or overflow hose being careful to follow the performed bends (see Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter). Avoid sharp bending, kinking, flattening, or twisting.
•
Tighten the hose clamps securely.
Torque - Water Hose Clamp Screws: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m,
27 in·lb)
Table of Contents
Exploded View...................................
Specifications ....................................
Special Tools and Sealant .................
Cylinder Head Cover .........................
Cylinder Head Cover Removal ....
Cylinder Head Cover Installation .
Camshaft Chain Tensioner ................
Removal ....................................
Installation .................................
Camshafts .........................................
Camshaft Removal ......................
Camshaft Installation ...................
Camshaft Chain Removal ............
Camshaft Chain Installation .........
Wear Inspection ........................
Camshaft Runout Inspection........
Cam Wear Inspection ..................
Cylinder Head....................................
Measurement ............................
Cylinder Head Removal ...............
Cylinder Head Installation ............
Cylinder Head Cleaning ...............
Cylinder Head Warp Inspection ...
Valves ................................................
Valve Clearance Inspection .........
Valve Clearance Adjustment........
Valve Removal .............................
Valve Installation ..........................
Valve Guide Removal ..................
Valve Guide Installation ...............
Measurement (Wobble Method)
Valve Seat Inspection ..................
Valve Seat Repair ........................
Cylinder and Piston ...........................
Cylinder Removal.........................
Piston Removal............................
Cylinder and Piston Installation....
Cylinder Wear Inspection.............
Piston Wear Inspection ................
Inspection..................................
Clearance Inspection ................
Inspection..................................
Piston Ring Thickness Inspection
Measurement ............................
Piston, Piston Pin, Connecting
Rod Wear Inspection.................
Throttle Body Assy Holder.................
Removal ....................................
Installation .................................
Muffler................................................
Muffler Body Removal..................
Exhaust Pipe Removal.................
Muffler Installation........................
Silencer Wool Replacement.........
5
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Cylinder Head Cover Bolts
2 Camshaft Cap Bolts
3 Plug
4 Cylinder Head Bolts (M10)
5 Auto-Decompressor Bolt
6 Cylinder Head Bolts (M6)
7 Cylinder Bolt
8 Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Screw
9 Throttle Body Assy Clamp Screw
10 Lower Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt
11 Rear Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt
12 Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt
13 Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts
N·m
9.8
9.8
20
44
12
12
12
2.0
2.0
9.8
15
20
9.8
Torque kgf·m
1.0
1.0
2.0
4.5
1.2
1.2
1.2
0.20
0.20
1.0
1.5
2.0
1.0
ft·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
15
32
106 in·lb
106 in·lb
106 in·lb
18 in·lb
18 in·lb
87 in·lb
11
15
87 in·lb
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
LG: Apply liquid gasket.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10:1)
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Remarks
MO, S
L
MO, R, S
S
S
Exploded View
Exploded View
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
SS: Apply silicone sealant.
Specifications
Item
Camshafts
Cam Height:
Exhaust
Intake
Camshaft Journal/Camshaft Cap
Clearance
Camshaft Journal Diameter
Camshaft Bearing Inside Diameter
Camshaft Runout
Standard
33.943
∼
34.057 mm
(1.3363
∼
1.3408 in.)
35.243
∼
35.357 mm
(1.3875
∼
1.3920 in.)
0.020
∼
0.062 mm
(0.0008
∼
0.0024 in.)
21.959
∼
21.980 mm
(0.8645
∼
0.8654 in.)
22.000
∼
22.021 mm
(0.8661
∼
0.8670 in.)
TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less
Service Limit
33.84 mm
(1.332 in.)
35.14 mm
(1.383 in.)
0.15 mm
(0.0059 in.)
21.93 mm
(0.8634 in.)
22.08 mm
(0.8693 in.)
TIR 0.1 mm
(0.004 in.)
Cylinder Head
Cylinder Compression (Usable Range)
427
∼
708 kPa (4.4
∼
7.2 kgf/cm²,
62
∼
103 psi) at 5 times
– – –
– – –
0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Cylinder Head Warp
Valves
Valve Clearance:
Exhaust
Intake
Valve Stem Bend
0.17
∼
0.22 mm
(0.0067
∼
0.0087 in.)
0.10
∼
0.15 mm
(0.0039
∼
0.0059 in.)
TIR 0.01 mm (0.0004 in.) or less
Valve Stem Diameter:
Exhaust
Intake
4.455
∼
4.470 mm
(0.1754
∼
0.1760 in.)
4.475
∼
4.490 mm
(0.1762
∼
0.1768 in.)
Valve Guide Inside Diameter:
Exhaust
Intake
4.500
∼
4.512 mm
(0.1772
∼
0.1776 in.)
4.500
∼
4.512 mm
(0.1772
∼
0.1776 in.)
Valve/Valve Guide Clearance (Wobble
Method):
Exhaust
Intake
Valve Seat Cutting Angle
0.07
∼
0.13 mm
(0.0028
∼
0.0051 in.)
0.02
∼
0.09 mm
(0.0008
∼
0.0035 in.)
32°, 45°, 60°
– – –
– – –
TIR 0.05 mm
(0.002 in.)
4.44 mm (0.175 in.)
4.46 mm (0.176 in.)
4.58 mm (0.180 in.)
4.58 mm (0.180 in.)
0.30 mm (0.012 in.)
0.22 mm (0.009 in.)
– – –
Specifications
Item
Valve Seating Surface:
Outside Diameter:
Exhaust
Standard
Intake
Width:
Exhaust
Intake
Valve Spring Free Length:
Exhaust
Intake
Cylinder, Piston
Cylinder Inside Diameter
24.6
∼
24.8 mm
(0.969
∼
0.976 in.)
30.6
(1.205
0.5
0.5
∼
∼
∼
30.8 mm
∼
1.213 in.)
1.0 mm (0.02
1.0 mm (0.02
∼
∼
37.88 mm (1.491 in.)
36.20 mm (1.425 in.)
0.04 in.)
0.04 in.)
Piston Diameter
Piston/Cylinder Clearance
Piston Ring/Ring Groove Clearance:
Top
Piston Ring Groove Width:
Top
Piston Ring Thickness:
Top
Piston Ring End Gap:
Top
Oil
Piston Pin Diameter
Piston Pin Hole Diameter
Connecting Rod Small End Inside
Diameter
77.000
∼
77.012 mm
(3.0315
∼
3.0320 in.)
76.948
∼
76.963 mm
(3.0294
∼
3.0300 in.)
0.041
∼
0.068 mm
(0.0016
∼
0.0027 in.)
0.04
∼
0.08 mm
(0.002
∼
0.003 in.)
0.83
∼
0.85 mm
(0.0327
∼
0.0335 in.)
0.77
∼
0.79 mm
(0.030
∼
0.031 in.)
0.15
∼
0.25 mm
(0.0059
∼
0.0098 in.)
0.20
∼
0.70 mm
(0.0079
∼
0.0276 in.)
15.991
∼
16.000 mm
(0.62957
∼
0.62992 in.)
16.004
∼
16.010 mm
(0.63008
∼
0.63031 in.)
16.010
∼
16.018 mm
(0.63031
∼
0.63063 in.)
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
36.5 mm (1.44 in.)
34.7 mm (1.37 in.)
77.10 mm
(3.035 in.)
76.80 mm
(3.024 in.)
– – –
0.18 mm
(0.0071 in.)
0.93 mm
(0.037 in.)
0.70 mm
(0.028 in.)
0.6 mm
(0.02 in.)
1.0 mm
(0.04 in.)
15.96 mm
(0.6283 in.)
16.08 mm
(0.6331 in.)
16.05 mm
(0.6319 in.)
Specifications
Valve Stem Diameter
Valve Stem Diameter [A]
45° [B]
Valve Stem Bend
Dial Gauge [A]
Special Tools and Sealant
Compression Gauge, 20 kgf/cm²:
57001-221
Valve Seat Cutter, 45° 32:
57001-1115
Valve Spring Compressor Assembly:
57001-241
Valve Seat Cutter, 32° 28:
57001-1119
Piston Ring Compressor Grip:
57001-1095
Valve Seat Cutter Holder Bar:
57001-1128
Piston Ring Compressor Belt, 67
∼
79:
57001-1097
Valve Seat Cutter, 32° 33:
57001-1199
Valve Seat Cutter, 45° 27.5:
57001-1114
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 22:
57001-1202
Special Tools and Sealant
Compression Gauge Adapter, M10 × 1.0:
57001-1317
Valve Seat Cutter, 60° 33:
57001-1334
Valve Seat Cutter, 60° 25:
57001-1328
Filler Cap Driver:
57001-1454
Valve Seat Cutter Holder, 4.5:
57001-1330
Valve Guide Driver:
57001-1564
Valve Guide Arbor, 4.5:
57001-1331
Valve Guide Reamer, 4.5:
57001-1333
Piston Pin Puller:
57001-1568
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 24:
57001-1586
Special Tools and Sealant
Valve Guide Driver Attachment, F:
57001-1722
Liquid Gasket, TB1216B:
92104-1064
Cylinder Head Cover
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)
Fuel Hose (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
Spark Plug Cap [A]
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts [B] and Washers
Cylinder Head Cover [C]
•
Remove the cylinder head cover gasket [A].
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid gasket coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply liquid gasket [A] to the cylinder head.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1216B: 92104-1064
NOTE
○
Make the application finish within 20 minutes when the liquid gasket (TB1216B) to the mating surface of the cylinder head cover is applied.
•
Replace the spark plug hole gasket [A] with a new one, and install it.
•
Make sure that the upper chain guide [A] is bottomed.
NOTICE
Unless the upper chain guide is bottomed, the camshaft chain could push the cylinder head cover upward, leading to an oil leak.
•
Replace the cylinder head cover gasket with a new one.
•
Install the new cylinder head cover gasket [B] on the cylinder head cover [C].
•
Install the cylinder head cover.
Cylinder Head Cover
•
Install the cylinder head cover bolt washers with the metal side [A] upwards.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Cylinder Head Cover Bolts [B]: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m,
87 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Camshaft Chain Tensioner
NOTICE
This is a non-return type camshaft chain tensioner.
The push rod does not return to its original position once it moves out to take up camshaft chain slack.
Observe all the rules listed below:
When removing the tensioner, do not take out the mounting bolts only halfway.
Retightening the mounting bolts from this position could damage the tensioner and the camshaft chain. Once the bolts are loosened, the tensioner must be removed and reset as described in “Camshaft Chain Tensioner Installation”.
Do not turn over the crankshaft while the tensioner is removed. This could upset the camshaft chain timing and damage the valves.
•
Remove:
Cap Bolt [A]
Washer [B]
Spring
Rod
•
Remove the mounting bolts [C] and take off the camshaft chain tensioner body [D].
•
Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the O-ring.
•
Release the stopper [B] and push the push rod [C] into the tensioner body [D] fully.
•
Install the tensioner body so that the stopper faces upward.
○
Turn the stopper to right side of the motorcycle.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts [A]: 9.8
N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Install the spring [B] and rod [C].
•
Tighten the cap bolt [D] together with the washer [E].
Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt: 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Camshafts
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Removal)
Timing Inspection Cap [A]
Flywheel Nut Cap [B]
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
•
Bring the piston to the TDC of the compression stroke.
○
Place a wrench over the flywheel nut [A] and turn it counterclockwise to align the TDC mark [B] with the center of the groove [C] of the inspection hole.
•
Remove:
Camshaft Chain Tensioner (see Camshaft Chain Tensioner Removal)
Camshaft Cap Bolts [1
∼
8] (sequence numbers)
Camshaft Cap [A]
•
Remove:
Positioning Rings [A]
•
Disengage the camshafts [B] from camshaft chain [C].
•
Staff a clean cloth into the camshaft chain tunnel to keep any parts from dropping into the crankcase.
NOTICE
Always strain the camshaft chain while turning the crankshaft when the camshafts removed.
This avoids kinking the chain on the lower (crankshaft) sprocket. A kinked chain could damage both the chain and the sprocket.
Camshafts
•
Remove:
Bolt [A]
Auto-Decompressor [B]
Spring [C]
•
When installing the spring [A] on the auto-decompressor
[B], put the spring end [C] onto the outside coil.
•
Install the auto-decompressor [A] in the exhaust camshaft.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Auto-Decompressor Bolt [B]: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m,
106 in·lb)
○
The intake camshaft has projection [A].
•
Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one, and apply grease it.
•
Fill the oil passage [B] of the cylinder head with engine oil.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the ball bearing, all cam and journal surfaces of the camshafts.
If the new camshaft is installed, apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the cam and journal surfaces of the camshaft.
Camshafts
•
Bring the piston to the TDC.
○
Place a wrench over the flywheel nut [A] and turn it counterclockwise to align the TDC mark [B] with the center of the groove [C] of the inspection hole.
•
Engage the camshaft chain with the camshaft sprockets.
○
Align the timing marks on the sprockets with the cylinder head upper surface.
○
Starting with the timing mark on the front of the exhaust sprocket, count to the 1st pin. Feed the exhaust camshaft thought the chain and align the 28th pin with the timing mark on the intake camshaft sprocket.
NOTE
○
Strain the exhaust-side of the chain while installing the camshaft.
1st Pin [A]
2nd Pin [B]
28th Pin [C]
Punch Marks (Exhaust) [D]
Punch Marks (Intake) [E]
Cylinder Head Upper Surface [F]
Camshafts
•
Install the dowel pins [A] and positioning rings [B].
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the threads and seating surface of the camshaft cap bolts.
•
Tighten all camshaft cap bolts evenly and lightly, and then tighten them with specified torque.
○
Follow the numbers [1
∼
8] of tightening sequence on the camshaft cap.
○
Bolt [5] is long.
Torque - Camshaft Cap Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one, and apply grease it.
•
Install the camshaft chain tensioner (see Camshaft Chain
Tensioner Installation).
•
Check the camshaft chain timing.
○
Confirm the timing mark and punch mark align with the cylinder head upper surface.
If the timing mark and punch mark do not align with the cylinder head upper surface, reinstall the camshafts.
○
Turn the crankshaft slowly.
If the crankshaft does not turn smoothly, the timing is different. Stop turning immediately.
NOTICE
The improper camshaft chain timing may damage the valves.
•
Install:
Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Installation)
•
Replace the timing inspection cap and flywheel nut cap
O-rings with new ones, and apply grease them.
•
Tighten:
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Torque - Timing Inspection Cap: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
Flywheel Nut Cap: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
Camshafts
•
Remove:
Camshafts (see Camshaft Removal)
Flywheel (see Flywheel Removal in the Electrical System chapter)
Lower Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt [A]
Lower Camshaft Chain Guide [B]
•
Disengage the camshaft chain [C] from the crankshaft.
•
Engage the camshaft chain to the crankshaft.
•
Install the lower camshaft chain guide.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Lower Camshaft Chain Guide Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Install:
Flywheel (see Flywheel Installation in the Electrical System chapter)
Camshafts (see Camshaft Installation)
•
Measure each clearance between the camshaft journal and camshaft cap using plastigage (press gauge) [A].
○
Tighten the camshaft cap bolts after applying molybdenum disulfide oil to the seat and thread of them.
Torque - Camshaft Cap Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
NOTE
○
Do not turn the camshaft when the plastigage is between the journal and camshaft cap.
Camshaft Journal/Camshaft Cap Clearance
Standard: 0.020
∼
0.062 mm (0.0008
∼
0.0024 in.)
Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.)
If any clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the diameter of each camshaft journal with a micrometer.
Camshaft Journal Diameter
Standard: 21.959
∼
21.980 mm (0.8645
∼
0.8654 in.)
Service Limit: 21.93 mm (0.8634 in.)
If the camshaft journal diameter is less than the service limit, replace the camshaft with a new one, and measure the clearance again.
If the clearance still remains out of the service limit, replace the cylinder head unit.
Camshafts
•
Remove the camshafts (see Camshaft Removal).
•
Set the camshaft in a camshaft alignment jig or on V blocks.
•
Measure the runout with a dial gauge [A] at the specified place.
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the camshaft.
Camshaft Runout
Standard:
Service Limit:
TIR 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less
TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
•
Remove the camshafts (see Camshaft Removal).
•
Measure the height [A] of each cam with a micrometer.
Cam Height
Standard:
Exhaust
Intake
33.943
∼
34.057 mm (1.3363
∼
1.3408 in.)
35.243
∼
35.357 mm (1.3875
∼
1.3920 in.)
Service Limit:
Exhaust
Intake
33.84 mm (1.332 in.)
35.14 mm (1.383 in.)
If the cams are worn down past the service limit, replace the camshaft.
Cylinder Head
•
Warm up the engine thoroughly.
•
Stop the engine.
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)
Spark Plug (see Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
•
Attach the compression gauge [A] and compression gauge adapter [B] firmly into the spark plug hole.
•
Measure the compression pressure.
○
With the throttle fully open, turn the engine over sharply with the kickstarter several times until the compression gauge stops rising; the compression is the highest reading obtainable.
Special Tools - Compression Gauge, 20 kgf/cm²: 57001-221
Compression Gauge Adapter, M10 × 1.0:
57001-1317
Cylinder Compression
Usable Range: 427
∼
708 kPa (4.4
∼
7.2 kgf/cm², 62
∼
103 psi) at 5 times
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
If the compression pressure is not within the usable range, check the following table.
Problem
The cylinder compression is higher than the usable range.
The cylinder compression is lower than the usable range.
Diagnosis
Carbon accumulation on piston and in cylinder head (combustion chamber) is suspected due to damaged valve stem or piston oil rings.
Incorrect cylinder head gasket thickness
Damaged auto-decompressor spring or decompressor do not move smoothly.
Exhaust gas leakage around cylinder head.
Incorrect seating surface of valve
Valve clearance is too narrow.
Remedy (Action)
Remove the carbon deposits and replace damaged parts if necessary.
Replace the gasket with a standard one.
Replace the spring or auto
-decompressor.
Replace the damaged gasket and inspect cylinder head warp.
Repair seating surface if possible.
Adjust the valve clearance.
Piston/cylinder clearance is too wide.
Replace the piston and/or cylinder.
Piston seizure Inspect the cylinder and piston; repair or replace them if necessary.
Bad condition of piston ring and/or piston ring grooves.
Auto-decompressor do not move smoothly.
Replace the piston and/or the piston rings.
Replace the auto-decompressor.
Cylinder Head
•
Drain the coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling
System chapter).
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)
Cylinder Head Cover (see Cylinder Head Cover Removal)
Camshafts (see Camshaft Removal)
Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal)
•
Remove:
Throttle Body Assy [A] (see Throttle Body Assy Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
Capacitor [B] (see Capacitor Removal in the Electrical
System chapter)
Ignition Coil [C] (see Ignition Coil Removal in the Electrical System chapter)
Vehicle-down Sensor [D] (see Vehicle-down Sensor Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
Bracket Bolt [E]
Water Hose [F]
Water Temperature Sensor Connector [G]
Bolts [H] and Upper Engine Bracket [I] (Both Sides)
Clamps [J] (Open)
•
Remove the cylinder head bolts (M6) [A].
•
Loosen the cylinder bolt [B].
•
Remove the cylinder head bolts (M10) [C].
•
Remove the cylinder head [A] upward.
NOTE
○
When do not remove the cylinder head easily, tap lightly up with a plastic mallet to separate the cylinder head from the cylinder.
○
Take care not to damage the chain guides.
NOTICE
Do not touch the radiator core. This could damage the radiator fins, resulting in loss of cooling efficiency.
•
Remove the cylinder head gasket.
Cylinder Head
•
Install the front camshaft chain guide.
○
Fit the projection [A] in the groove [B] of the cylinder.
○
Insert the guide end [C] into the recess of the crankcase securely.
NOTE
○
In this figure, the magneto cover and flywheel has been removed for clarity.
•
Replace the cylinder head gasket with a new one.
•
Install:
Dowel Pins [A]
New Cylinder Head Gasket [B]
•
Install the cylinder head.
NOTE
○
The camshaft cap is machined with the cylinder head, so if a new cylinder head is installed, use the cap that is supplied with the new head.
•
Replace the cylinder head bolts (M10) with new ones.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the following areas.
Cylinder Head Bolt (M10) Washer (Both Sides) [A]
Cylinder Head Bolt (M10) Thread [B]
•
Tighten the cylinder head bolts (M10) in the numbered sequence [1
∼
4].
Torque - Cylinder Head Bolts (M10): 44 N·m (4.5 kgf·m, 32 ft·lb)
•
Install the clamps [A].
90° [B]
•
Tighten:
Cylinder Bolt [C]
Cylinder Head Bolts (M6) [D]
Torque - Cylinder Bolt: 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)
Cylinder Head Bolts (M6): 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 106 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Refer to the Cylinder Head Warp Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Cylinder Head
•
Refer to the Cylinder Head Warp Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Valves
•
Refer to the Valve Clearance Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Valve Clearance Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove the cylinder head (see Cylinder Head Removal).
•
Remove the valve lifter and shim.
NOTE
○
Mark and record the locations of the valve lifters and shims so that they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
•
Using the valve spring compressor assembly [A] and adapter [B], compress the valve spring and then remove the split keepers.
Special Tools - Valve Spring Compressor Assembly: 57001
-241
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 22:
57001-1202
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 24:
57001-1586
•
Remove:
Spring Retainer
Valve Spring
Valve
Oil Seal
Spring Seat
Valves
NOTICE
Do not lap the valve to the valve seat, using the grinding compound.
It will come off oxide film treated surface of the valve.
•
Visually inspect the valve surface.
If the surface is damaged, replace the valve.
•
Replace the oil seal [A] with a new one.
•
Apply a thin coat of molybdenum disulfide grease to the valve stem [B] and install the valve.
•
Check to make sure that the valve moves up and down smoothly.
•
Check to make sure that the valve and valve seat are making proper contact.
•
Install:
Oil Seal
Spring Seat [C]
Valve Spring [D]
○
Turn the painted side of the valve spring to the spring retainer [E].
Exhaust - White Paint
Intake - Pink Paint
NOTE
○
The flange thicknesses of the spring seats are different in the exhaust and intake side. Take care not to install them oppositely.
Exhaust Valve Spring Seat [F]
Intake Valve Spring Seat [G]
•
Install the spring retainer.
•
Compress the valve spring to install the split keepers [H] in order to secure the spring retainer in place.
Special Tools - Valve Spring Compressor Assembly: 57001
-241
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 22:
57001-1202
Valve Spring Compressor Adapter, 24:
57001-1586
•
Install the shim to original position.
○
The shim [J] must be installed with its thickness indication facing up towards the retainer.
•
Apply engine oil to the valve lifter [K] surface, and install the lifter.
Valves
•
Remove:
Valve (see Valve Removal)
Oil Seal
Spring Seat
•
Heat the area around the valve guide up to 120
∼
150°C
(248
∼
302°F).
NOTICE
Do not heat the cylinder head with a torch. This will warp the cylinder head. Soak the cylinder head in oil and heat the oil.
•
Hammer lightly on the valve guide arbor [A] to remove the guide.
Special Tool - Valve Guide Arbor, 4.5: 57001-1331
•
Apply a thin coat of engine oil to the outer surface of the valve guide.
•
Heat the area around the valve guide up to 120
∼
150°C
(248
∼
302°F).
NOTICE
Do not heat the cylinder head with a torch. This will warp the cylinder head. Soak the cylinder head in oil and heat the oil.
•
Using the valve guide driver [A] and attachment, press and insert the valve guide in until the attachment bottom surface touches the cylinder head surface [B].
Exhaust: 13.8
∼
14.0 mm (0.543
∼
0.551 in.) [C]
Intake: 15.3
∼
15.5 mm (0.602
∼
0.610 in.) [D]
Special Tools - Valve Guide Driver: 57001-1564
Valve Guide Driver Attachment, F [E]: 57001
-1722
Valves
•
Ream the valve guide with valve guide reamer [A], even if the old guide is reused.
○
Always rotate the reamer clockwise.
Special Tool - Valve Guide Reamer, 4.5: 57001-1333
If a small bore gauge is not available, inspect the valve guide wear by measuring the valve/valve guide clearance with the wobble method as indicated below.
•
Insert a new valve [A] into the guide [B] and set a dial gauge against the stem perpendicular to it as close as possible to the cylinder head mating surface.
•
Move the stem back and forth [C] to measure the valve/valve guide clearance.
•
Repeat the measurement in a direction at a 90° angle to the first measurement.
If the reading exceeds the service limit, replace the guide.
NOTE
○
The reading is greater than the actual valve/valve guide clearance because the measurement is taken outside of the guide.
Valve/Valve Guide Clearance (Wobble Method)
Standard:
Exhaust
Intake
0.07
∼
0.13 mm (0.0028
∼
0.0051 in.)
0.02
∼
0.09 mm (0.0008
∼
0.0035 in.)
Service Limit:
Exhaust
Intake
0.30 mm (0.012 in.)
0.22 mm (0.009 in.)
Valves
•
Remove the valve (see Valve Removal).
•
Check the valve seating surface [A] between the valve [B] and valve seat [C].
•
Measure the outside diameter [D] of the seating pattern on the valve seat.
If the outside diameter is too large or too small, repair the seat (see Seat Repair).
Valve Seating Surface Outside Diameter
Standard:
Exhaust 24.6
∼
24.8 mm (0.969
∼
0.976 in.)
Intake 30.6
∼
30.8 mm (1.205
∼
1.213 in.)
○
Measure the seat width [E] of the portion where there is no build-up carbon (white portion) of the valve seat with a vernier caliper.
Good [F]
If the width is too wide [G], too narrow [H] or uneven [J], repair the seat (see Valve Seat Repair).
Valve Seating Surface Width
Standard:
Exhaust
Intake
0.5
∼
1.0 mm (0.02
∼
0.04 in.)
0.5
∼
1.0 mm (0.02
∼
0.04 in.)
•
For the instructions on how to use the valve seat cutter
[A], follow the operation manual provided by the tool manufacturer.
Special Tools - Valve Seat Cutter Holder, 4.5 [B]: 57001
-1330
Valve Seat Cutter Holder Bar: 57001-1128
Exhaust: Valve Seat Cutter, 45° 27.5: 57001-1114
Intake:
Valve Seat Cutter, 32° 28: 57001-1119
Valve Seat Cutter, 60° 25: 57001-1328
Valve Seat Cutter, 45° 32: 57001-1115
Valve Seat Cutter, 32° 33: 57001-1199
Valve Seat Cutter, 60° 33: 57001-1334
If the tool manufacturer’s instructions are not available, operate in accordance with the following procedure.
Valves
Seat Cutter Operation Care
1. This valve seat cutter is developed to grind the valve for repair. Therefore the cutter must not be used for other purposes than seat repair.
2. Do not drop or shock the valve seat cutter, or the diamond particles may fall off.
3. Do not fail to apply engine oil to the valve seat cutter before grinding the seat surface. Also wash off ground particles sticking to the cutter with washing oil.
NOTICE
Do not use a wire brush to remove the metal particles from the cutter. It will take off the diamond particles.
4. Setting the valve seat cutter holder in position, operate the cutter in one hand. Do not apply too much force to the diamond portion.
NOTE
○
Prior to grinding, apply engine oil to the cutter and during the operation, wash off any ground particles sticking to the cutter with washing oil.
5. After use, wash it with washing oil and apply thin layer of engine oil before storing.
Marks Stamped on the Cutter
The marks stamped on the back of the cutter [A] represent the following.
60° ........................... Cutter Angle [B]
37.5
....................... Cutter Outer Diameter [C]
Repair Operating Procedures
•
Clean the seat area carefully.
•
Coat the seat with machinist’s dye.
•
Fit a 45° cutter into the holder and slide it into the valve guide.
•
Press down lightly on the handle and turn it right or left.
Grind the seating surface only until it is smooth.
NOTICE
Do not grind the seat too much. Overgrinding will reduce valve clearance by sinking the valve into the head. If the valve sinks too far into the head, it will be impossible to adjust the clearance, and the cylinder head must be replaced.
Valves
Widened Width [A] of engagement by machining with
45° cutter
Ground Volume [B] by 32° cutter
32° [C]
Correct Width [D]
Ground Volume [E] by 60° cutter
60° [F]
•
Measure the outside diameter of the seating surface with a vernier caliper.
If the outside diameter of the seating surface is too small, repeat the 45° [A] grind until the diameter is within the specified range.
Original Seating Surface [B]
NOTE
○
Remove all pittings of flaws from 45° ground surface.
○
After grinding with 45° cutter, apply thin coat of machinist’s dye to seating surface. This makes seating surface distinct and 32° and 60° grinding operation easier.
○
When the valve guide is replaced, be sure to grind with
45° cutter for centering and good contact.
If the outside diameter [A] of the seating surface is too large, make the 32° [B] grind described below.
If the outside diameter of the seating surface is within the specified range, measure the seat width as described below.
•
Grind the seat at a 32° angle until the seat outside diameter is within the specified range.
○
To make the 32° grind, fit a 32° cutter into the holder, and slide it into the valve guide.
○
Turn the holder one turn at a time while pressing down very lightly. Check the seat after each turn.
NOTICE
The 32° cutter removes material very quickly.
Check the seat outside diameter frequently to prevent overgrinding.
○
After making the 32° grind, return to the seat outside diameter measurement step above.
•
To measure the seat width, use a vernier caliper to measure the width of the 45° angle portion of the seat at several places around the seat.
If the seat width is too narrow, repeat the 45° grind until the seat is slightly too wide, and then return to the seat outside diameter measurement step above.
Valves
If the seat width is too wide, make the 60° [A] grind described below.
If the seat width is within the specified range, lap the valve to the seat as described below.
•
Grind the seat at a 60° angle until the seat width is within the specified range [B].
○
To make the 60° grind, fit a 60° cutter into the holder, and slide it into the valve guide.
○
Turn the holder, while pressing down lightly.
○
After making the 60° grind, return to the seat width measurement step above.
NOTICE
Do not lap the valve to the valve seat, using the grinding compound.
It will come off oxide film treated surface of the valve.
•
When the engine is assembled, be sure to adjust the valve clearance (see Valve Clearance Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Valves
Cylinder and Piston
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal)
Front Camshaft Chain Guide [A]
Cylinder Bolt [B]
•
Tap lightly up with a plastic mallet to separate the cylinder
[C] from the crankcase.
•
Remove the cylinder base gasket.
•
Remove the cylinder (see Cylinder Removal).
•
Remove the piston pin snap ring [A].
NOTE
○
Lay a clean cloth under the piston, to prevent dropping dirt or parts into the crankcase.
•
Remove the piston pin, using a piston pin puller [A].
Special Tool - Piston Pin Puller: 57001-1568
•
Remove the piston [B].
•
Carefully spread the piston ring opening with your thumbs and then push up on the opposite side of the ring [A] to remove it.
•
Remove the oil ring in the same procedure.
NOTE
○
If a new piston or cylinder is used, check piston/cylinder clearance (see Piston/Cylinder Clearance Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter), and use new piston rings.
Cylinder and Piston
NOTE
○
The oil ring rails have no “top” or “bottom”.
•
Install the oil ring expander [A] in the bottom piston ring groove so the ends [B] butt together.
•
Install the oil ring steel rails on both sides of the oil ring expander.
○
Spread the rail with your thumbs, but only enough to fit the rail over the piston.
○
Release the rail into the bottom piston ring groove.
•
Install the top ring [A] so that the “R” mark [B] faces up.
•
Apply engine oil to the piston pin and inside wall of the connecting rod small end.
•
Install the piston.
Front [A]
Circle Mark [B]
•
Install the piston pin.
•
Fit a new piston pin snap ring into the side of the piston so that the ring opening [A] does not coincide with the slit
[B] of the piston pin hole.
○
When installing the piston pin snap ring, compress it only enough to install it and no more.
NOTICE
Do not reuse snap rings, as removal weakens and deforms them. They could fall out and score the cylinder wall.
•
Replace the cylinder base gasket with a new one.
•
Install:
Dowel Pins [A]
New Cylinder Base Gasket [B]
Cylinder and Piston
•
The piston ring openings must be positioned as shown.
The openings of the oil ring steel rails must be 15
∼
20° of angle from the opening of the oil ring expander.
Top Ring [A]
Upper Oil Ring Steel Rail [B]
Oil Ring Expander [C]
Lower Oil Ring Steel Rail [D]
•
Apply engine oil to the cylinder bore and piston side wall.
•
Install the cylinder while compressing the piston rings with your fingers or the special tool [A].
○
Upturn the chamfering side of the belt.
Special Tools - Piston Ring Compressor Grip: 57001-1095
Piston Ring Compressor Belt, 67
∼
79:
57001-1097
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Refer to the Cylinder Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter [A] of the piston 6 mm (0.24 in.) [B] up from the bottom of the piston at a right angle to the direction of the piston pin.
If the piston outside diameter is smaller than the service limit, replace the piston.
Piston Diameter
Standard: 76.948
∼
76.963 mm (3.0294
∼
3.0300 in.)
Service Limit: 76.80 mm (3.024 in.)
•
Refer to the Piston/Cylinder Clearance in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Check for uneven groove wear by inspecting the ring seating.
The rings should fit perfectly parallel to groove surfaces.
If not, replace the piston and all piston rings.
•
With the piston rings in their grooves, make several measurements with a thickness gauge [A] to determine piston ring/groove clearance.
Piston Ring/Ring Groove Clearance
Standard:
Top 0.04
∼
0.08 mm (0.002
∼
0.003 in.)
Service Limit:
Top 0.18 mm (0.0071 in.)
If the piston ring groove clearance is greater than the service limit, measure the ring thickness and groove width as follows to decide whether to replace the rings, the piston or both.
Cylinder and Piston
•
Measure the groove width at several points around the piston with a vernier caliper.
Piston Ring Groove Width
Standard:
Top 0.83
∼
0.85 mm (0.0327
∼
0.0335 in.)
Service Limit:
Top 0.93 mm (0.037 in.)
If any of the groove widths exceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
•
Measure the thickness at several points around the ring with a micrometer.
Piston Ring Thickness
Standard:
Top 0.77
∼
0.79 mm (0.030
∼
0.031 in.)
Service Limit:
Top 0.70 mm (0.028 in.)
If any of the measurements is less than the service limit, replace all rings.
NOTE
○
When using new rings in a used piston, check for uneven groove wear. The rings should fit perfectly parallel to the groove sides. If not, replace the piston.
•
Place the piston ring [A] inside the cylinder, using the piston to locate the ring squarely in place. Set it close to the bottom of the cylinder, where cylinder wear is low.
•
Measure the gap [B] between the ends of the ring with a thickness gauge.
Piston Ring End Gap
Standard:
Top
Oil
0.15
∼
0.25 mm (0.0059
∼
0.0098 in.)
0.20
∼
0.70 mm (0.0079
∼
0.0276 in.)
Service Limit:
Top
Oil
0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
If the ring end gap exceeds the service limit, replace all rings.
Cylinder and Piston
•
Visually inspect the snap rings [A] still fitted in place.
If the ring shows weakness or deformation, replace the ring. Also if the pin hole groove shows excessive wear, replace the piston.
•
Measure the diameter of the piston pin [B] with a micrometer.
Piston Pin Diameter
Standard: 15.991
∼
16.000 mm (0.62957
∼
0.62992
in.)
Service Limit: 15.96 mm (0.6283 in.)
If the piston pin diameter is less than the service limit at any point, replace the piston pin.
•
Using a cylinder gauge, measure the diameter of both piston pin holes [C] in the piston and the inside diameter of the connecting rod small end [D].
Piston Pin Hole Diameter
Standard: 16.004
∼
16.010 mm (0.63008
∼
0.63031
in.)
Service Limit: 16.08 mm (0.6331 in.)
Connecting Rod Small End Inside Diameter
Standard: 16.010
∼
16.018 mm (0.63031
∼
0.63063
in.)
Service Limit: 16.05 mm (0.6319 in.)
If either piston pin hole diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
If the connecting rod small end inside diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod.
Throttle Body Assy Holder
•
Remove:
Cylinder Head (see Cylinder Head Removal)
Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp Screw [A] (Loosen)
Throttle Body Assy Holder [B] and Holder Clamp
•
Install:
Throttle Body Assy Holder
Throttle Body Assy Holder Clamp
○
Turn the mark [A] to the throttle body assy.
○
Turn the screw head [B] to the engine left side.
○
Fit the projection [C] of the cylinder head and the recess
[D] of the holder.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Throttle Body Holder Clamp Screw: 2.0 N·m (0.20
kgf·m, 18 in·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Muffler
WARNING
The muffler can become extremely hot during normal operation and cause severe burns. Do not remove the muffler while it is hot.
•
Remove the right side cover (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter).
•
Loosen the muffler clamp bolt [A].
•
Remove the mounting bolts [B], and pull out the muffler body [C] backward.
•
Remove:
Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal)
Exhaust Pipe Holder Nuts [A]
Exhaust Pipe [B]
•
Replace the exhaust pipe gasket and muffler pipe gasket with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the exhaust pipe gasket, and install it to the engine.
•
Install the gasket to the muffler pipe until it is bottomed.
•
Install the exhaust pipe, muffler body and muffler clamp temporary.
○
Turn the punch mark [A] of the exhaust pipe holder to right side of the motorcycle.
○
Tighten the exhaust pipe holder nuts first, and then the
• muffler mounting bolt (rear).
Tighten the muffler mounting bolts securely.
○
Tighten the front bolt first, and then the rear bolt.
•
Tighten the exhaust pipe holder nuts securely.
•
Upturn the muffler clamp opening and fit the hole [B] of the muffler clamp to the projection [C] of the muffler body.
•
Tighten the muffler clamp bolt securely.
•
Thoroughly warm up the engine, wait until the engine cools down, and then retighten all bolts and nuts.
•
Refer to the Silencer Wool Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Table of Contents
6
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
1 Right Engine Cover Bolts
2 Clutch Cover Bolts
3
4
Oil Filler Plug
Clutch Hub Nut
Fastener
N·m
9.8
9.8
3.5
98
Torque kgf·m
1.0
1.0
0.36
10.0
ft·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
31 in·lb
72
5 Clutch Spring Bolts 9.0
0.92
80 in·lb
CL: Apply cable lubricant.
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10:1)
R: Replacement Parts
Remarks
R
Specifications
Item
Clutch Lever
Clutch Lever Free Play
Clutch
Friction Plate Thickness
Friction Plate Warp
Steel Plate Warp
Clutch Spring Free Length
Friction Plate/Clutch Housing
Clearance
Standard
8
∼
13 mm (0.3
∼
0.5 in.)
2.72
∼
2.88 mm (0.107
∼
0.113 in.)
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) or less
45.82 mm (1.804 in.)
0.04
∼
0.55 mm (0.002
∼
0.022 in.)
Service Limit
– – –
2.5 mm (0.10 in.)
0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
43.9 mm (1.73 in.)
0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
Special Tools
Inside Circlip Pliers:
57001-143
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Clutch Holder:
57001-1243
Clutch Lever and Cable
Due to friction plate wear and clutch cable stretch over a long period of use, the clutch must be adjusted in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
WARNING
The engine and exhaust system get extremely hot during normal operation and can cause serious burns.
Never touch the engine or exhaust pipe during clutch adjustment.
•
Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Install the clutch lever assembly [A].
25
∼
35° [B]
Horizontal Line of Frame [C]
160.5 mm (6.32 in.) [D]
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Left Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
Left Radiator Screen (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Slide the dust cover [A].
•
Loosen the locknut [B] and screw in the adjuster [C] fully.
•
Slide the dust cover [A] and knob [B] out of place.
Clutch Lever and Cable
•
Align the slit [A] of the adjusting nut to the slit [B] of the clutch lever.
•
Free the clutch cable upper end from the clutch lever.
•
Take the cable off the cable holder [A].
•
Take the cable lower end [B] off the clutch release lever
[C].
NOTICE
Do not remove the clutch release shaft unless it is absolutely necessary. If removed, release shaft oil seal must be replaced with a new one.
•
Open the clamps [A].
•
Pull the clutch cable out of the frame.
•
Apply grease to the lips [A] of adjusting nut.
•
Run the clutch cable correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Adjust the clutch cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
During a periodic inspection or when the cable has been removed, inspect and lubricate the cable (see General
Lubrication and Cable Inspection section in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Brake Pedal Bolt [A]
Brake Pedal Return Spring [B]
•
Remove the clutch cover bolts [A] and clutch cover [B].
•
Replace the clutch cover gasket with a new one.
•
Install the clutch cover and new cover gasket.
•
Tighten:
L = 65 mm (2.6 in.) [A]
L = 25 mm (1.0 in.) [B]
Torque - Clutch Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Drain:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Remove:
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
Oil Filter (see Oil Filter Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Brake Pedal Bolt [A]
Brake Pedal Return Spring [B]
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Remove:
Bolt [A]
Right Engine Guard [B]
•
Remove:
Water Pump Cover (see Water Pump Cover Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
Clutch Cover Bolts [A]
Right Engine Cover Bolts [B]
Right Engine Cover [C]
•
Install the dowel pins [A].
•
Replace the right engine cover gasket [B] with a new one.
•
Wrap the spline [C] of the kick shaft with the vinyl tape to prevent damage.
•
Apply grease to the kick shaft oil seal lip.
•
When installing the cover does not go well, the cover is installed according to the following procedures.
○
Install the cover while turning the impeller [A].
•
Tighten:
L = 35 mm (1.4 in.) [A]
L = 25 mm (1.0 in.) [B]
Torque - Right Engine Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Clutch Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Clutch Cover and Right Engine Cover
•
Remove the vinyl tape from the kick shaft.
•
Install:
Water Pump Cover (see Water Pump Cover Installation in the Cooling System chapter)
Brake Pedal (see Brake Pedal Installation in the Brakes chapter)
Oil Filter (see Oil Filter Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Installation in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
•
Pour:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Filling in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Check the rear brake effectiveness (see Brakes section in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Refer to the Oil Seal and Bearing Installation in the Cooling System chapter for water pump oil seals and bearing installation.
•
Replace the removed oil seal and circlip with new ones.
•
Press in the oil seals direction as shown.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○
Press in the new oil seal using a press and suitable tools so that the seal surface is flush with the surface of the right engine cover.
Flat Side [A]
Kick Shaft Oil Seal [B]
○
Press the new crankshaft oil passage oil seal [A] so that the seal surface is flush with the surface of the right engine cover.
Flat Side [B]
○
Install the new circlip [C].
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
Clutch
•
Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Clutch Cover (see Clutch Cover Removal)
Clutch Spring Bolts [A]
Clutch Springs
Clutch Spring Plate [B]
•
Remove:
Push Rod Holder Assembly [A]
Steel Ball
Friction Plates [B]
Steel Plates [C]
•
Hold the clutch hub [A] with the clutch holder [B].
Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243
•
Remove:
Clutch Hub Nut [C]
Toothed Washer [D]
Clutch Hub
Thrust Washer
Clutch Housing [E]
•
Remove:
Needle Bearing [A]
Sleeve [B]
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the outside of the sleeve [A].
•
Install the sleeve so that the flange [B] faces inside.
•
Install the needle bearing [C].
Clutch
•
Install the clutch housing [A].
○
Turn the kickstarter idle gear and oil pump idle gear with a suitable tool [B] to fit in the clutch housing.
•
Install:
Thrust Washer [A]
Clutch Hub [B]
•
Hold the clutch hub with the clutch holder [A].
Special Tool - Clutch Holder: 57001-1243
•
•
Install the toothed washer [B].
Replace the clutch hub nut [C] with a new one.
○
Turn the large chamfering side of the clutch hub nut to outside.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Clutch Hub Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
•
Install the friction plates and steel plates alternately.
○
Install the friction plate first.
NOTICE
If new dry steel plates and friction plates are installed, apply engine oil to the surfaces of each plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the rubbing portion
[A] of push rod holder, steel ball [B] and washers [C].
•
Install the steel ball and push rod holder assembly.
Clutch
•
If a clutch part was replaced, install the standard adjusting washer (1.5 mm thickness) [A] of the push rod holder assembly, and check the release lever position as explained later procedure.
•
Install the clutch spring plate and clutch springs.
•
Tighten the clutch spring bolts while holding the clutch housing with the hand.
Torque - Clutch Spring Bolts: 9.0 N·m (0.92 kgf·m, 80 in·lb)
•
Check the release shaft lever position [A].
Cable Holder [B]
Lever [C]
Release Shaft Lever Position
Standard: 49.2
∼
56.5 mm (1.94
∼
2.22 in.)
If the lever position is not within the standard, select the correct thickness of adjusting washer(s) according to the tables shown.
Adjusting Washers
Thickness
1.5 mm (0.06 in.)
1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
Part Number
92200-1548
92200-0045
Release Shaft Lever Position and Adjusting Washer
Selection
Position Distance Judgment
Washers
Thickness
49.2
∼
56.5 mm (1.94
∼
2.22 in.)
More than 56.5 mm
(2.22 in.)
Less than 49.2 mm
(1.94 in.)
Standard
Too big
Too small
1.5 mm (0.06 in.)
1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
Qty
1
1
2
Remove the push rod holder assembly as necessary and reinstall the clutch.
Clutch
•
Remove:
Clutch (see Clutch Removal)
Clutch Cable Upper End (see Clutch Cable Removal)
•
Remove the tip [A] of the clutch cable.
•
Pull out the release shaft assembly [B].
•
Apply engine oil to the needle bearings [A].
•
Replace the oil seal [B] with a new one (see Crankcase
Assembly in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).
•
Apply grease to the release shaft lower end [C] and oil seal lips.
•
Insert the release shaft straight into the upper hole of the crankcase.
NOTICE
When inserting the release shaft, be careful not to remove the spring of the oil seal.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Refer to the Clutch Plates Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Clutch Plates Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Measure the free length [A] of the clutch springs.
If any clutch spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be replaced.
Clutch Spring Free Length
Standard: 45.82 mm (1.804 in.)
Service Limit: 43.9 mm (1.73 in.)
•
Visually inspect the clutch housing fingers [A] that come in contact with the friction plate tangs.
If they are damaged or if there are groove cuts in the areas that come in contact with the tangs, replace the housing.
Replace the friction plates if their tangs are damaged as well.
Clutch
•
Measure the clearance between the tangs [A] on the friction plate and the fingers [B] of the clutch housing.
If this clearance is excessive, the clutch will be noisy.
If the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the friction plates.
Friction Plate/Clutch Housing Clearance
Standard: 0.04
∼
0.55 mm (0.002
∼
0.022 in.)
Service Limit: 0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
•
Visually inspect the areas of the clutch hub splines that come in contact with the teeth of the steel plates.
If there are notches worn into the clutch hub splines [A], replace the clutch hub. Replace the steel plates if their teeth are damaged as well.
Table of Contents
7
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Oil Filter Cap Bolts
2 Piston Oil Nozzle
3 Breather Fitting
4 Oil Pump Idle Gear Shaft Screws
5 Oil Pump Mounting Bolts
6 Engine Oil Drain Bolt
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
9.8
2.9
15
5.9
7.0
20
Torque kgf·m
1.0
0.30
1.5
0.60
0.71
2.0
ft·lb
87 in·lb
26 in·lb
11
52 in·lb
62 in·lb
15
Remarks
L
L
Lubrication System Chart
Lubrication System Chart
1. Oil Screen (Scavenge)
2. Oil Shower to Transmission
3. Piston Oil Nozzle
4. Breather Hose
5. Oil Filter
6. Oil Screen (Feed)
7. Oil Pump (Scavenge)
8. Oil Pump (Feed)
9. Kick Starter Idle Gear
A: Crank Room Oil
B: Transmission Room Oil
C: Blowby Gas
D: Engine Oil
Specifications
Item
Engine Oil
Type
Viscosity
Capacity
Standard
Castrol “POWER1 R4 Racing” 5W-40 or
API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2
SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, or 10W-50
0.75 L (0.79 US qt) (when filter is not removed)
0.80 L (0.85 US qt) (when filter is removed)
1.00 L (1.06 US qt) (when engine is completely dry)
Between upper and lower level lines (after warm-up or driving) Oil Level
Oil Pressure Measurement
Oil Pressure About 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14.2 psi) at 4 000 r/min (rpm), Oil
Temperature 40°C (104°F)
Special Tools
Oil Pressure Gauge, 5 kgf/cm²:
57001-125
Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter, M6 × 1.0:
57001-1664
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
Engine Oil and Oil Filter
WARNING
Vehicle operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated engine oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine seizure, accident, and injury. Check the oil level before each use and change the oil and filter according to the periodic maintenance chart.
The engine oil level indicated in the oil level inspection window is very sensitive to the motorcycle’s position and engine rpm at time of shut down. Because of the semi-dry sump lubrication system with separate oil chambers in the crank room and transmission room, under certain conditions oil can accumulate in the crank room and give a false low reading at the oil level inspection window, which indicates oil volume in the transmission room.
•
Situate the motorcycle so that it is vertical.
•
Check that the engine oil level is between the upper [A] and lower [B] levels in the inspection window [C].
NOTE
○
If the motorcycle has just been used, wait several minutes for all the oil to drain down.
○
If no oil appears in the inspection window, tip the motorcycle slightly to the right until oil is visible then return to an upright position. If no oil appears even when tipped at an extreme angle, remove the drain bolt to empty any oil, reinstall the drain bolt and refill with the specified amount of oil.
○
If the oil has just been changed, start the engine and run it for several minutes at idle speed. This fills the oil filter with oil.
○
Do not run the engine at high engine speed. Stop the engine, then wait several minutes until the oil settles.
NOTICE
Racing the engine before the oil reaches every part can cause engine seizure.
If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil through the filler opening, using a syringe or some other suitable device.
If the oil level is too low, add the correct amount of oil through the oil filler opening. Use the same type and make of oil that is already in the engine.
NOTE
○
If the engine oil type and make are unknown, use any brand of the specified oil to top off the level rather than running the engine with the oil level low. Then at your earliest convenience, change the oil completely.
•
Refer to the Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Engine Oil and Oil Filter
•
Refer to the Oil Filter Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Oil Screen (Feed)
•
Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Disassembly in the
Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).
•
Remove the oil screen (feed) [A].
Left Crankcase [B]
•
Clean the oil screen with a high flash-point solvent and remove any particles stuck to them.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the screen in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash-point solvent to clean the screen.
NOTE
○
While cleaning the screen, check for any metal particles that might indicate internal engine damage.
•
Check the screen (feed) [A] carefully for any damage, holes, broken wires or gasket pulling off.
If the screen is damaged, replace it with a new one.
•
Install the oil screen (feed) [A].
Projection [B]
Left Crankcase [C]
•
Assemble the crankcase (see Crankcase Assembly in the
Crankshaft/Transmission chapter).
Engine Oil and Oil Filter
Oil Screen (Scavenge)
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal in the Electrical System chapter).
•
Remove the oil screen (scavenge) [A].
•
Clean the oil screen with a high flash-point solvent and remove any particles stuck to them.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the screen in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Do not use gasoline or a low flash-point solvent to clean the screen.
NOTE
○
While cleaning the screen, check for any metal particles that might indicate internal engine damage.
•
Check the oil screen (scavenge) [A] carefully for any damage, holes, broken wires or gasket pulling off.
If the screen is damaged, replace it with a new one.
•
Apply engine oil to the three sides [A] of screen.
•
Install the oil screen (scavenge).
Narrow Side [B]
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation in the Electrical System chapter).
Oil Pump
•
Drain:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Remove:
Brake Pedal (see Brake Pedal Removal in the Brakes chapter)
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Primary Gear (see Primary Gear Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
•
Remove:
Circlip [A]
Oil Pump Idle Gear [B]
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Remove:
Oil Pump Mounting Bolts [A]
Oil Pump Assembly [B]
•
Remove:
Inner [A] and Outer [B] Rotors (Scavenge)
Dowel Pin [C]
Pin [D]
Oil Pump
•
Disassemble the oil pump assembly.
Pins [A]
Oil Pump Cover [B]
Inner [C] and Outer [D] Rotors (Feed)
Oil Pump Body [E]
Oil Pump Gear [F]
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the shaft of the oil pump gear.
•
Apply engine oil to the inner and outer rotors.
•
Assemble:
Oil Pump Body [A]
Gear [B]
Pin [C]
Inner Rotor (Feed) [D]
○
Fit the slot [E] of the inner rotor onto the pin.
•
Install:
Outer Rotor (Feed) [A]
Cover [B]
•
Install:
Pin [A]
Inner Rotor (Scavenge) [B]
○
Fit the slot [C] of the inner rotor onto the pin.
•
Install:
Outer Rotor (Scavenge) [A]
Pin [B]
Dowel Pin [C]
Oil Pump Assembly
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the oil pump mounting bolts.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Oil Pump Mounting Bolts: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
Oil Pump
•
Apply engine oil to the shaft of the oil pump idle gear [A].
•
Install the oil pump idle gear.
•
Turn [B] the oil pump idle gear to check that the oil pump operates smoothly.
•
Replace the circlip [C] with a new one.
•
Install the new circlip.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Disassemble the oil pump assembly (see Oil Pump Removal).
•
Visually inspect the oil pump body, outer rotors and the inner rotors.
If the oil pump is any damage or uneven wear, replace the rotors, cover, body, or the crankcase.
Oil Pressure
•
Remove the water pump cover bolt.
•
Install the oil pressure gauge adapter [A] to the water pump cover.
Special Tool - Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter, M6 × 1.0:
57001-1664
•
Attach the oil pressure gauge [A].
Special Tool - Oil Pressure Gauge, 5 kgf/cm²: 57001-125
•
Start the engine.
NOTE
○
Warm up the engine thoroughly before measuring the oil pressure.
•
Run the engine at the specified speed, and read the oil pressure gauge.
Oil Pressure
Standard: About 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14.2 psi) at
4 000 r/min (rpm), Oil Temperature 40°C
(104°F)
If the reading is much lower than the standard, check the feed oil pump and crankshaft oil seal.
If the reading is much higher than the standard, check the oil filter first, and oil passages for dirt or clogging.
•
Stop the engine and remove the gauge and oil pressure gauge adapter.
WARNING
Hot oil can cause severe burns. Beware of hot engine oil that will drain through the oil passage when the gauge adapter is removed.
•
Replace the water pump cover bolt washer with a new one.
•
Install the water pump cover bolt and new washer.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Cover Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Table of Contents
8
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Upper Engine Mounting Bolts
2 Upper Engine Bracket Bolts
3 Middle Engine Bracket Nuts
4 Middle Engine Mounting Nut
5 Lower Engine Mounting Nut
6 Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
N·m
49
29
29
49
49
98
Torque kgf·m
5.0
3.0
3.0
5.0
5.0
10.0
ft·lb
36
21
21
36
36
72
Remarks
S
S
R, S
R, S
R, S
R, S
Special Tools
Jack:
57001-1238
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Engine Removal/Installation
•
Remove the engine guards.
•
Place the jack under the frame to support the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
WARNING
When the swingarm pivot shaft is removed the swingarm and rear wheel assembly will become detached and allow the frame to fall to the floor, creating the potential for injury.
Removing the engine requires the swingarm pivot to be removed, so support the bottom of the frame with a jack or other appropriate stand.
•
Squeeze the brake lever slowly and hold it with a band
[A].
WARNING
Motorcycle may fall over unexpectedly resulting in an accident or injury. Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the engine.
NOTICE
Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the engine, or the motorcycle may fall over. The engine or the motorcycle could be damaged.
•
Drain:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Draining in the Cooling System chapter)
Engine Removal/Installation
•
Remove:
Rear Frame (see Rear Frame Removal in the Frame chapter)
Exhaust Pipe (see Exhaust Pipe Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)
Radiators and Water Hoses (see Radiator Removal in the Cooling System chapter)
Throttle Body Assy (see Throttle Body Assy Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
Ignition Coil (see Ignition Coil Removal in the Electrical
System chapter)
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
Engine Sprocket (see Engine Sprocket Removal in the
Final Drive chapter)
Kick Pedal (see Kick Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
Clutch Cable Lower End (see Clutch Cable Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Brake Pedal Bolt and Return Spring (see Brake Pedal
Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Disconnect:
Gear Position Switch Lead Connector [A]
Magneto Lead Connector [B]
•
Remove the bolt [C].
•
Remove the vehicle-down sensor bracket bolts [A].
Engine Removal/Installation
•
Disconnect the water temperature sensor connector [A].
•
Remove the following parts on both sides:
Upper Engine Bracket Bolts [B]
Upper Engine Mounting Bolts [C] and Nuts
Upper Engine Brackets [D]
•
Remove:
Middle Engine Bracket Bolts [A] and Nuts
Middle Engine Mounting Bolt [B] and Nut
Middle Engine Bracket [C] (Both Sides)
Lower Engine Mounting Bolt [D] and Nut
•
Remove:
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut [A]
Swingarm Pivot Shaft [B]
•
Remove the engine from the motorcycle to right side.
○
Clear the engine rear portion from the swingarm and then remove the engine.
•
Replace with new ones:
Upper Engine Mounting Nuts
Middle Engine Mounting Nut
Middle Engine Bracket Nuts
Lower Engine Mounting Nut
•
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Install the engine.
○
First, insert the front portion of the engine from the right side, and then install the rear portion.
○
Second, fit the rear portion of the engine to the swingarm.
Engine Removal/Installation
•
•
Insert the swingarm pivot shaft from the right side.
Install all engine brackets, bolts and nuts temporarily.
○
Insert the following bolts from left side:
Middle Engine Mounting Bolt [A]
Middle Engine Bracket Bolts [B]
Lower Engine Mounting Bolt [C]
•
Install the swingarm pivot shaft nut with the washer.
•
Tighten the bolts and nuts in the numbered sequence [1
∼
6].
Torque - Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut [1]: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m,
72 ft·lb)
Lower Engine Mounting Nut [2]: 49 N·m (5.0 kgf·m,
36 ft·lb)
Middle Engine Mounting Nut [3]: 49 N·m (5.0
kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)
Middle Engine Bracket Nuts [4]: 29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m,
21 ft·lb)
Upper Engine Bracket Bolts [5]: 29 N·m (3.0 kgf·m,
21 ft·lb)
Upper Engine Mounting Bolts [6]: 49 N·m (5.0
kgf·m, 36 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Run the cables, hoses, and leads according to the Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Pour:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Filling in the Cooling System chapter)
•
Adjust:
Throttle Cable (see Throttle Grip Free Play Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Clutch Cable (see Clutch Operation Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Drive Chain (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter)
Idle Speed (see Idle Speed Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter)
•
Check the brake effectiveness.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
Table of Contents
9
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Primary Gear Nut
2 Reed Valve Screws
3 Crankcase Bearing Retainer Screws
4 Piston Oil Nozzle
5 Crankcase Bolts (L = 50 mm)
6 Crankcase Bolt (L = 65 mm)
7 Crankcase Bolts (L = 70 mm)
8 Crankcase Bolts (L = 60 mm)
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
LG: Apply liquid gasket.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
N·m
98
7.0
15
2.9
9.8
9.8
9.8
9.8
Torque kgf·m
10.0
0.71
1.5
0.30
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
ft·lb
72
62 in·lb
11
26 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
87 in·lb
Remarks
Lh, R
L
S
S
S
S
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt
2 Kick Pedal Bolt
3 Shift Drum Cam Bolt
4 Gear Positioning Lever Nut
5 Ratchet Plate Bolt
6 Ratchet Plate Screw
7 Shift Pedal Bolt
N·m
8.8
25
24
8.8
9.8
15
9.8
Torque kgf·m
0.90
2.5
2.4
0.90
1.0
1.5
1.0
ft·lb
78 in·lb
18
18
78 in·lb
87 in·lb
11
87 in·lb
EO: Apply engine oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
M: Apply molybdenum disulfide grease.
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10:1)
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
St: Stake the fasteners to prevent loosening.
Remarks
L
L
L
L, S
L, S
Specifications
Item
Crankshaft, Connecting Rod
Connecting Rod Big End:
Radial Clearance
Side Clearance
Crankshaft Runout
Connecting Rod Bend
Connecting Rod Twist
Standard
Transmission
Shift Fork Ear Thickness
Shift Drum Groove Width
4.9
∼
5.0 mm (0.193
∼
0.197 in.)
Gear Groove Width 5.05
∼
5.15 mm (0.199
∼
0.203 in.)
Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter 5.9
∼
6.0 mm (0.232
∼
0.236 in.)
6.05
∼
6.20 mm (0.238
∼
0.244 in.)
Service Limit
0.002
∼
0.014 mm
(0.00008
∼
0.00055 in.)
0.06 mm (0.0024 in.)
0.25
∼
0.35 mm (0.0098
∼
0.0138 in.) 0.6 mm (0.02 in.)
TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less TIR 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
– – – TIR 0.2/100 mm
(0.008/3.94 in.)
– – – TIR 0.2/100 mm
(0.008/3.94 in.)
4.8 mm (0.189 in.)
5.3 mm (0.209 in.)
5.8 mm (0.228 in.)
6.3 mm (0.25 in.)
Special Tools and Sealant
Bearing Puller:
57001-135
Crankcase Splitting Tool Assembly:
57001-1362
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Crankshaft Jig:
57001-1174
Gear Holder, m2.0:
57001-1557
Liquid Gasket, TB1216:
92104-1063
Crankcase
•
Remove the engine from the frame (see Engine Removal in the Engine Removal/Installation chapter).
•
Set the engine on clean surface while parts are being removed.
•
Remove:
Piston (see Piston Removal in the Engine Top End chapter)
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Primary Gear (see Primary Gear Removal)
Oil Pumps (see Oil Pump Removal in the Engine Lubrication System chapter)
Kick Shaft (see Kick Shaft Removal)
External Shift Mechanism (see External Shift Mechanism Removal)
Flywheel (see Flywheel Removal in the Electrical System chapter)
Gear Position Switch (see Gear Position Switch Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
•
Slide out the clamp [A], and remove the breather hose [B].
•
Remove the output shaft collar [A] and O-rings.
•
Remove the crankcase bolts [B].
•
Position the connecting rod in BDC.
•
Install the crankshaft jig [A] between the crankshaft flywheels.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
Crankcase
•
Attach the crankcase splitting tool [A] to the left crankcase.
○
Adjust the gap with suitable collars or nuts [B].
Special Tool - Crankcase Splitting Tool Assembly: 57001
-1362
•
Tighten the center bolt to split the crankcase halves.
○
The front and rear portion of the crankcase must be pulled apart evenly.
•
Remove:
Oil Screen (Feed) (see Oil Screen Cleaning and Inspection in the Engine Lubrication System chapter)
Shift Rods [A]
Shift Forks [B]
Shift Drum [C] (see Transmission Shaft Removal)
Transmission Shafts [D] (see Transmission Shaft Removal)
Crankshaft [E] (see Crankshaft Removal)
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings and the oil seals unless it is necessary. Removal may damage them.
•
Remove the reed valve [A] from the left crankcase half.
○
Unscrew the screws [B] and remove the guide [C].
NOTICE
Right and left crankcase halves are machined at the factory in the assembled state, so if replaced, they must be replaced as a set.
•
Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves and clean them off with a high flash
-point solvent.
•
Using compressed air, blow out the oil passages in the crankcase halves.
WARNING
Gasoline and low flash-point solvents can be flammable and/or explosive and cause severe burns. Clean the engine parts in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there is no spark or flame anywhere near the working areas.
Do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean parts.
Crankcase
•
Support the crankcase bearing boss with a suitable retainer [A].
•
Install the new bearing [B] with a press and the bearing driver set [C].
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
NOTICE
Support the crankcase bearing boss when the bearing is pressed, or the crankcase could be damaged.
Left Crankcase
•
Press the new crankshaft bearing [A] until it bottoms out.
•
Press the new shift drum needle bearing [B] so that the bearing surface is flush with the crankcase surface.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Press the new drive shaft bearing [A] so that the sealed side [B] faces outside of the engine.
•
Press the new output shaft bearing [C] so that the stepped side [D] faces inside of the engine.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the left crankcase bearing retainers.
○
The left crankcase bearing retainers are smaller than right ones.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the crankcase bearing retainer screws [A].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Crankcase Bearing Retainer Screws: 15 N·m (1.5
kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)
•
Press the new release shaft needle bearing (lower) [A] so that the marked side faces upward and the distance from the engine surface to the bearing end is 10 ~ 10.5 mm
(0.394 ~ 0.413 in.) [B].
•
Press the new release shaft needle bearing (upper) [C] so that the bearing surface is flush with the crankcase surface [D] and the marked side faces upward.
•
Press the new release shaft oil seal [E] so that the oil seal surface is flush with the crankcase surface [F].
○
Turn the flat side of the oil seal to upside.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lip.
Crankcase
•
Press the new output shaft oil seal [A] so that the oil seal surface is flush with the crankcase surface.
○
Turn the metal side to outside of the engine.
•
Press the new shift shaft oil seal [B] so that the oil seal surface is flush with the crankcase surface.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lip.
•
Install the reed valve [A] and guide [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Reed Valve Screws [C]: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
Right Crankcase
•
Press the new crankshaft bearing [A] and new drive shaft bearing [B] until they bottom out.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
Crankcase
•
Press the new shift drum ball bearing [A] and new output shaft bearing [B] so that the sealed side [C] faces outside of the engine.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the right crankcase bearing retainers.
○
The right crankcase bearing retainers are larger than left ones.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the crankcase bearing retainer screws [A].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Crankcase Bearing Retainer Screws: 15 N·m (1.5
kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)
•
Tighten:
Torque - Piston Oil Nozzle [A]: 2.9 N·m (0.30 kgf·m, 26 in·lb)
•
Press the new crankshaft oil seal [A] so that the flat side
[B] faces inside of the engine.
○
Press the oil seal from the outside (clutch cover side) so that the oil seal end is flush with the crankcase surface
[C].
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lip.
Crankcase
•
Install:
Crankshaft (see Crankshaft Installation)
Transmission Shafts (see Transmission Shaft Installation)
•
Install the oil screen (feed) [A] so that the shorter pipe side faces upward.
•
Position the connecting rod in BDC.
•
Install the crankshaft jig [B] between the crankshaft flywheels.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
•
Check to see that the dowel pins [C] are in place in the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves.
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the liquid gasket coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply liquid gasket to the mating surface [A] of the left crankcase half.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1216: 92104-1063
NOTE
○
Especially, apply liquid gasket so that it shall be filled up on the groove.
○
Make the application finish within 20 minutes when the liquid gasket to the mating surface of the left crankcase half is applied.
○
Moreover fit the case and tighten the case bolts just after finishing the application of the liquid gasket.
•
Assemble the crankcase halves evenly, while maintaining the mating surfaces of them constantly parallel.
NOTE
○
Press the crankcase rear portion [A], and tap the area around the crankshaft with a plastic hammer [B].
○
Constantly check the alignment of the crankcase halves, and the position of the transmission shafts and shift drum.
•
Remove the crankshaft jig [C].
•
Tighten the crankcase bolts, starting with the around of the crankshaft, then outward.
○
Tighten the [12] bolt together with the clamp.
Torque - Crankcase Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
NOTE
○
After tightening the crankcase bolts, wipe up the liquid gasket seeping out around the mating surface, especially around the area.
•
Make sure that the crankshaft, drive shaft, and output shaft, rotate smoothly (in the neutral position).
If the crankshaft will not turn, probably the crankshaft is not centered; tap the mount portion of the engine with a plastic hammer to reposition it. If it does not free up, split the crankcase again and find the cause.
Crankcase
•
Install the gear positioning lever and shift drum cam (see
External Shift Mechanism Installation).
•
Check to see that gears shift smoothly from 1st to 5th gear, and 5th to 1st while spinning the output shaft.
•
Set the shift drum in the neutral position.
•
Replace the O-rings [A] on the output shaft with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the O-rings.
•
Install the O-rings on the output shaft while expanding the
O-ring.
•
Insert the collar [B] with the groove [C] faces inside.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Crankshaft
•
Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Disassembly).
•
Remove the transmission shafts and shift drum (see
Transmission Shaft Removal).
•
Using a press, remove the crankshaft [A] from the right crankcase.
If the bearing stay on the crankshaft when splitting the crankcase, or removing the crankshaft from the right crankcase, remove the bearings from the crankshaft with a bearing puller [A].
Special Tool - Bearing Puller: 57001-135
•
Apply engine oil to the outer side of the crankshaft bearing and use the bearing driver set [A] and a press to drive the bearing to the bottom of the crankcase [B]. While driving the bearing in, make sure to use a holder to support the boss area.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Insert the crankshaft jig [A] between the crankshaft flywheels to protect flywheel alignment, and press the crankshaft into the right crankcase.
○
When pressing, position the jig in the crankcase opening so the jig does not hit the crankcase.
Special Tool - Crankshaft Jig: 57001-1174
•
Apply engine oil to the connecting rod big end bearing.
Since the assembly of the crankshaft demands exacting tolerances, the disassembly and reassembly of the crankshaft can only be done by a shop having the necessary tools and equipment.
If it should be necessary to disassemble the crankshaft, use a press to remove the crankpin.
Since the assembly of the crankshaft demands exacting tolerances, the disassembly and reassembly of the crankshaft can only be done by a shop having the necessary tools and equipment.
Crankshaft
•
Carefully align the oil passage hole in the right flywheel
[A] with the one in the crankpin [B] at rebuilding of the crankshaft.
•
Reassemble the crankshaft according to the standard tolerances in Specifications.
○
Connecting rod bend, twist (see Connecting Rod Bend
Inspection, Connecting Rod Twist Inspection)
○
Connecting rod big end radial clearance (see Crankshaft
Inspection)
○
Cold-fitting tolerance between crankpin and flywheels
0.4
∼
0.8 mm (0.02
∼
0.03 in.) [A]
57.25 mm (2.254 in.) [B]
○
Side clearance between the connecting rod big end and one of flywheels (see Crankshaft Inspection)
○
Crankshaft runout (see Crankshaft Inspection)
Connecting Rod Big End Radial Clearance Inspection
•
Set the crankshaft on V blocks, and place a dial gauge [A] against the connecting rod big end.
•
Push [B] the connecting rod first towards the gauge and then in the opposite direction. The difference between two gauge readings is the radial clearance.
Connecting Rod Big End Radial Clearance
Standard: 0.002
∼
0.014 mm (0.00008
∼
0.00055 in.)
Service Limit: 0.06 mm (0.0024 in.)
If the radial clearance exceeds the service limit, crankshaft should be either replaced or disassembled and crankpin, needle bearing, and connecting rod big end should be examined for wear.
Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance Inspection
•
Refer to the Crankshaft Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Crankshaft Runout Inspection
•
Set the crankshaft in a flywheel alignment jig or on V blocks, and place a dial gauge and turn the crankshaft slowly. The maximum difference in gauge reading is the crankshaft runout.
8 mm (0.3 in.) [A]
Crankshaft Runout
Standard: TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
If the runout at either point exceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft assembly with a new one or align the crankshaft so that the runout falls within the service limit.
Crankshaft
•
First correct the horizontal misalignment by striking the projecting crank half [A] with a plastic, soft lead, or brass hammer.
•
Recheck the runout with a dial gauge and repeat the process until the runout falls within the service limit.
•
Next, correct the vertical misalignment by either driving a wedge [A] in between the crank halves or by squeezing them in a vise, depending on the nature of the misalignment.
NOTICE
Do not hammer the crank half at the point [B].
If flywheel misalignment cannot be corrected by the above method, replace the crankpin or the crankshaft itself.
Connecting Rod Big End Seizure Inspection
In case of serious seizure with damaged flywheels, the crankshaft must be replaced.
In case of less serious damage, disassemble the crankshaft and replace the crankpin, needle bearing, and connecting rod.
Crankshaft
•
Remove the connecting rod.
•
Select an arbor [A] of the same diameter as the connecting rod big end, and insert the arbor through the connecting rod big end.
•
Select an arbor [B] of the same diameter as the piston pin and more than 105 mm (4.13 in.) long, and insert the arbor through the connecting rod small end.
•
On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on a V block [C].
•
With the connecting rod held vertically, use a height gauge to measure the difference in the height of the arbor above the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length to determine the amount of connecting rod bend.
If connecting rod bend exceeds the service limit, the connecting rod must be replaced.
Connecting Rod Bend
Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)
•
With the big-end arbor [A] still on the V block [B], hold the connecting rod horizontally and measure the amount that the arbor [C] varies from being parallel with the surface plate over a 100 mm (3.94 in.) length of the arbor to determine the amount of connecting rod twist.
If connecting rod twist exceeds the service limit, the connecting rod must be replaced.
Connecting Rod Twist
Service Limit: TIR 0.2/100 mm (0.008/3.94 in.)
Transmission
•
Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Disassembly).
•
Pull out the shift rods [A], and remove the shift forks [B].
•
Remove the shift drum [C].
•
Pull out the drive shaft [D] and output shaft [E] together.
•
Apply engine oil to the following parts:
Transmission Shafts
Transmission Gears
Ball Bearings
Shift Drum
Shift Forks
•
Install the drive shaft [A] and output shaft [B] in the right crankcase with their gears meshed.
•
Install the shift drum [A].
•
Fit the output shaft shift forks [B] into the proper gear grooves.
○
Upturn the “057” mark of shift forks.
•
Insert the shift rod [C] temporary.
•
Fit the shift fork guide pin into the proper shift drum grooves.
•
Install the shift rod securely.
•
Fit the drive shaft shift fork [D] into the proper position.
○
Upturn the “056” mark of shift fork.
•
Install the shift rod [E] securely.
•
Check that each shaft moves smoothly.
•
Assembly the crankcase (see Crankcase Assembly).
•
Remove the transmission shafts (see Transmission Shaft
Removal).
•
Remove the circlips, washers, then gears.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
NOTE
○
Do not reuse the removed circlips.
Transmission
•
Apply engine oil liberally to the transmission shaft, gears
• and bearings.
Replace any circlips that were removed with new ones.
○
Always install the circlips [A] so that the opening [B] is aligned with a spline groove [C], and install toothed washers. To install a circlip without damage, first fit the circlip onto the shaft expanding it just enough to install it, and then use a suitable gear to push the circlip into place.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
The drive shaft gears can be identified by size; the smallest diameter gear is 1st gear, and the largest is 5th. Be sure that all parts are put back in the correct sequence, facing the proper direction, and that all circlips and washer are properly in place.
○
When install the bushing (for 4th) [A] to the drive shaft, align the oil passage holes [B] each other.
•
The output shaft gears can be identified by size; the largest diameter gear is 1st gear, and the smallest is
5th. Be sure that all parts are put back in the correct sequence, facing the proper direction, and that the circlip is properly in place.
○
Install the collar [A] with the flange [B] facing toward the
4th gear [C] side.
2nd Gear [D]
Transmission
1. Circlip (Small)
2. Toothed Washer
3. Circlip (Large)
4. Ball Bearing (Left Crankcase, One side sealed)
5. 2nd Gear (16T)
6. Bushing
7. 4th Gear (17T)
8. 3rd Gear (18T)
9. 5th Gear (22T)
10. Drive Shaft (1st Gear, 14T)
11. Ball Bearing (Right Crankcase)
12. Output Shaft
13. Ball Bearing (Left Crankcase)
14. Collar
15. 2nd Gear (28T)
16. 4th Gear (21T)
17. 3rd Gear (26T)
18. 5th Gear (23T)
19. 1st Gear (30T)
20. Ball Bearing (Right Crankcase, One side sealed)
•
Check that each gear spins or slides freely on the transmission shaft without binding after assembly.
•
Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is bent. A bent fork could cause difficulty in shifting, or allow the transmission to jump out of gear when under power.
90° [A]
Transmission
•
Measure the thickness [A] of the shift fork ears, and measure the width [B] of the gear grooves (with which the fork engages).
Shift Fork Ear Thickness
Standard: 4.9
∼
5.0 mm (0.193
∼
0.197 in.)
Service Limit: 4.8 mm (0.189 in.)
Gear Groove Width
Standard: 5.05
∼
5.15 mm (0.199
∼
0.203 in.)
Service Limit: 5.3 mm (0.209 in.)
If the thickness of a shift fork ear is less than the service limit, the shift fork must be replaced.
If the gear groove is worn exceeding the service limit, the gear must be replaced.
•
Measure the diameter [A] of each shift fork guide pin, and measure the width [B] of each shift drum groove.
Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter
Standard: 5.9
∼
6.0 mm (0.232
∼
0.236 in.)
Service Limit: 5.8 mm (0.228 in.)
Shift Drum Groove Width
Standard: 6.05
∼
6.20 mm (0.238
∼
0.244 in.)
Service Limit: 6.3 mm (0.25 in.)
If the guide pin on any shift fork is less than the service limit, the fork must be replaced.
If any shift drum groove is worn exceeding the service limit, the drum must be replaced.
•
Visually inspect the gear dogs [A] and gear dog holes [B].
Replace any damaged gears or gears with excessively worn dogs or dog holes.
•
Visually inspect the gear teeth [C] on the transmission gears.
Replace lightly damaged gear teeth with an oilstone. The gear must be replaced if the teeth are badly damaged.
When gear is repaired or replaced, the driving gear should also be inspected and repaired or replaced if necessary.
Primary Gear
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)
•
Temporarily install the clutch housing [A], clutch hub [B],
• toothed washer and clutch hub nut [C].
Hold the primary gear [D] with the gear holder [E].
○
Pull out the clutch housing a little so that the gear holder can be fit.
Special Tool - Gear Holder, m2.0: 57001-1557
•
Remove the primary gear nut [F] and washer.
○
The primary gear nut is left-hand threads.
•
Remove:
Clutch Housing
Primary Gear
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lip [A].
•
Replace the primary gear nut [B] with a new one.
•
Install:
Primary Gear [C]
Washer [D]
Primary Gear Nut
○
Turn the inner rim of washer to outside.
○
The primary gear nut is left-hand threads.
•
Temporarily install the clutch housing [A], clutch hub [B], toothed washer and clutch hub nut [C].
•
Hold the primary gear [D] with the gear holder [E].
○
Pull out the clutch housing a little so that the gear holder can be fit.
Special Tool - Gear Holder, m2.0: 57001-1557
•
Tighten:
Torque - Primary Gear Nut [F]: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
External Shift Mechanism
•
Remove:
Shift Pedal Bolt [A]
Shift Pedal [B]
•
Install the shift pedal so that the slit [A] on the pedal aligns with the punch mark [B] on the shift shaft.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Shift Pedal Bolt [C]: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal)
•
Pull out the shift shaft [A].
•
Remove:
Washer [A]
Ratchet Plate Bolt [B]
Ratchet Plate Screw [C]
Ratchet Plate [D]
Shift Ratchet Assembly [E]
•
Remove the shift drum cam bolt [A].
•
Hold the gear positioning lever [B] with suitable tool, and remove the shift drum cam [C].
•
Remove:
Gear Positioning Lever Nut [D] and Washer [E]
External Shift Mechanism
•
Remove:
Pin [A]
Gear Positioning Lever [B]
Collar [C]
Spring [D]
•
Install:
Pin [A]
Spring [B]
Collar [C]
Gear Positioning Lever [D]
Washer
•
Tighten:
Torque - Gear Positioning Lever Nut: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m,
78 in·lb)
•
Hold the gear positioning lever [A] with the suitable tool
[B], and install the shift drum cam [C].
○
Fit the groove [D] on the pin [E].
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the shift drum cam bolt.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Shift Drum Cam Bolt: 24 N·m (2.4 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Align the roller of the gear positioning lever with the slot of the shift drum cam.
•
Fit the spring end [A] to the notch of the gear positioning lever.
•
Turn the input shaft to check that the shift changes smoothly.
•
Set up the shift ratchet assembly.
Ratchet [A]
Pawls [B]
Pins [C]
Springs [D]
External Shift Mechanism
•
Install the shift ratchet assembly [A] and ratchet plate [B] as a set.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the ratchet plate screw and bolt.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Ratchet Plate Screw [C]: 15 N·m (1.5 kgf·m, 11 ft·lb)
Ratchet Plate Bolt [D]: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
○
Tighten the screw first.
•
Install the collar [E].
•
Apply grease to the oil seal lips [A] and shift shaft splines
[B].
•
•
Install the washer [A] on the shift shaft [B].
Insert the shift shaft.
○
Take care not to damage the oil seal when inserting the shift shaft.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove the shift shaft (see External Shift Mechanism Removal).
•
Check the shift shaft [A] for bending or damage to the splines.
If the shaft is bent, straighten or replace it. If the splines are damaged, replace the shift shaft.
•
Check the return spring [B] for cracks or distortion.
If the spring is damaged in any way, replace it.
•
Check the shift lever [C] for distortion.
If the shift lever is damaged in any way, replace the shift shaft.
External Shift Mechanism
•
Check the shift ratchet assembly for any damage.
If the ratchet [A], pawls [B], pins [C] or springs [D] are damaged in any way, replace them.
•
Visually inspect the shift drum cam [A].
If it is badly worn or if it shows any damage, replace it.
•
Check the gear positioning lever [A] and its spring [B] for breaks or distortion.
If the lever or spring is damaged in any way, replace them.
Kickstarter
•
Remove:
Kick Pedal Bolt [A] and Washer
Kick Pedal Assy [B]
•
Install the kick pedal assy.
○
Put the pedal end [A] near the cylinder head cover mating surface [B].
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the kick pedal bolt.
•
Install the washer and tighten the kick pedal bolt.
Torque - Kick Pedal Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Remove the kick pedal assy (see Kick Pedal Removal).
•
Remove:
Plug Screw [A]
Spring [B]
Steel Ball [C]
Detent Screw [D]
Boss [E]
Oil Seal [F]
•
Replace the oil seal [A] and plug screw [B] with a new one.
•
Apply grease to the steel ball, oil seal lip, spring, and the sliding portion of the pedal.
•
Install:
Oil Seal
Boss [C]
Detent Screw [D]
Steel Ball [E]
Spring [F]
Plug Screw
•
Tighten the detent screw and plug screw.
•
After tightening the plug screw, stake it with a punch.
Kickstarter
•
Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Clutch (see Clutch Removal in the Clutch chapter)
Kickstarter Idle Gear [A]
•
Pull the spring end [B] out of the hole.
•
Turn the kick shaft counterclockwise [C] and pull out the kickstarter assembly [D].
•
Remove the bolt [A], and take off the ratchet guide [B].
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the kick ratchet guide bolt.
•
Install the ratchet guide [A], and tighten the bolt.
Torque - Kick Ratchet Guide Bolt [B]: 8.8 N·m (0.90 kgf·m,
78 in·lb)
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to the kick shaft end
[C].
•
Insert the kick shaft assembly into the crankcase.
○
Securely engage the stopper portion [D] of the ratchet gear with the guide.
•
Insert the spring end [E] into the hole [F].
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to the idle shaft.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
The kick shaft assembly consists of the following parts.
Circlips [A]
Washer ( 27.5 × 18.3) [B]
Spring [C]
Ratchet Gear [D]
Washer ( 22 × 18.3) [E]
Kick Gear [F]
Kick Shaft [G]
Kick Spring [H]
Spring Guide [I]
•
Check the kick shaft assembly parts for damage. Any damaged parts should be replaced with new ones.
Kickstarter
•
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease [A] to the kick gear, ratchet gear and kick shaft.
•
Replace the circlips that were removed with new ones.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
NOTE
○
When assembling the ratchet gear [A] onto the kick shaft [B], align the punch mark [C] on the ratchet gear with the punch mark [D] on the kick shaft.
•
Apply grease [A] to the inside of the spring guide [B].
•
Fit the spring end [C] and hollow [D] on the spring guide.
Bearings/Oil Seals
NOTICE
Do not remove the ball or needle bearings unless it is necessary. Removal may damage them.
•
Using a press or puller, remove the ball bearing and/or needle bearings.
NOTE
○
In the absence of the above mentioned tools, satisfactory results may be obtained by heating the case to approximately 93°C (200°F) max, and tapping the bearing in or out.
NOTICE
Do not heat the case with a torch. This will warp the case. Soak the case in oil and heat the oil.
•
Using a press and the bearing driver set [A], install the new ball bearing until it stops at the bottom of its housing.
○
The new needle bearings must be pressed into the crankcase so that the end is flush with the end of the hole.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection.
Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the ball bearings.
○
Since the ball bearings are made to extremely close tolerances, the wear must be judged by feel rather than measurement.
○
Clean each bearing in a high flash-point solvent, dry it (do not spin the bearing while it is dry), and oil it with engine oil.
○
Spin [A] the bearing by hand to check its condition.
If the bearing is noisy, does not spin smoothly, or has any rough spots, replace it.
Bearings/Oil Seals
•
Inspect the needle bearings.
○
The rollers in a needle bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, inspect the bearing for abrasion, color change, or other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of a needle bearing, replace it.
•
Inspect the oil seals.
Replace the oil seal if the lips are deformed, discolored
(indicating that the rubber has deteriorated), hardened or otherwise damaged.
Table of Contents
10
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
1 Spoke Nipples
Fastener
2 Front Axle Nut
3 Front Axle Clamp Bolts
4 Rear Axle Nut
N·m
Not less than 2.2
78
20
108
Torque kgf·m
Not less than 0.22
8.0
2.0
11.0
ft·lb
Not less than 19 in·lb
58
15
79.7
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
HG: Apply high-temperature grease.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
WL: Apply soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.
Remarks
AL, S
Specifications
Item
Wheels (Rims)
Rim Size:
Front
Rear
Rim Runout:
Axial
Radial
Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)
Tires
Air Pressure (when cold):
Front/Rear
Standard Tire:
Front:
Size
Make
Type
Rear:
Size
Make
Type
Standard
21 × 1.60
19 × 1.85
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 1.0 mm (0.04 in.) or less
TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
– – –
– – –
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
100 kPa (1.00 kgf/cm², 14 psi)
80/100-21 51M
DUNLOP
MX51F, Tube
100/90-19 57M
DUNLOP
MX51, Tube
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
– – –
Special Tools
Inside Circlip Pliers:
57001-143
Rim Protector:
57001-1063
Bead Breaker Assembly:
57001-1072
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Jack:
57001-1238
Bearing Remover Head, 20 × 22:
57001-1293
Bearing Remover Head, 25 × 28:
57001-1346
Bearing Remover Shaft, 13:
57001-1377
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Wheels (Rims)
•
Remove the axle nut [A].
•
Loosen the axle clamp bolts [B] on both sides.
•
Raise the front wheel off the ground with jack.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Pull out the axle and remove the wheel.
•
Remove the collars [A] with caps [B] on both sides.
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
•
Insert a wood wedge between the brake pads.
○
This prevents them from being moved out of their proper position, should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
•
Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.
•
Install the caps and collars to the hub on both sides.
○
Fit the projection [A] and groove [B].
•
Install the front wheel.
•
Insert the axle [A] from right side.
•
Screw the front axle clamp bolts (right) [B] temporarily.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Axle Nut [C]: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Front Axle Clamp Bolts (Left) [D]: 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Loosen the front axle clamp bolts (right).
•
Remove the jack.
Wheels (Rims)
•
Pump the front fork up and down [A] 4 or 5 times to align both fork positions.
NOTE
○
Put a block [B] in front of the wheel to stop moving.
○
Do not apply the front brake.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Axle Clamp Bolts (Right): 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m,
15 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Check the front brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
•
Using the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Squeeze the front brake lever, and hold it with a band [A] to prevent the motorcycle from running forward.
WARNING
Motorcycle may fall over unexpectedly resulting in an accident or injury. Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the rear wheel.
NOTICE
Be sure to hold the front brake when removing the rear wheel, or the motorcycle may fall over. The rear wheel or the motorcycle could be damaged.
Wheels (Rims)
•
Remove the cotter pin [A], rear axle nut [B] and washer
[C].
•
Pull out the axle [D], and remove the chain adjuster [E] on both sides.
•
Disengage the drive chain from the rear sprocket.
•
Remove the rear wheel.
•
Remove the collars [A] with caps [B] on both sides.
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
•
Insert a wood wedge between the brake pads.
○
This prevents them from being moved out of their proper position, should the brake pedal be squeezed accidentally.
•
Fit the groove [A] of the caliper holder and swingarm rib
[B].
•
•
Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lips.
Install the caps and collars to the hub on both sides.
○
Fit the projection [A] and groove [B].
Wheels (Rims)
•
Install the rear wheel.
•
Engage the drive chain with the rear sprocket.
•
Install the chain adjusters on the swingarm.
Adjuster [A] (Left Side)
Flat Adjuster [B] (Right Side)
•
Insert the axle from left side, and tighten the axle nut.
Torque - Rear Axle Nut: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 79.7 ft·lb)
•
Insert a new cotter pin [A].
NOTE
○
When inserting the cotter pin, if the slots in the nut do not align with the cotter pin hole in the axle, tighten the nut clockwise [B] up to next alignment.
○
It should be within 30 degrees.
○
Loosen once and tighten again when the slot goes past the nearest hole.
•
Bend the cotter pin [A] over the nut.
WARNING
A loose axle nut can lead to an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Tighten the axle nut to the proper torque and install a new cotter pin.
•
Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Check the rear brake for good braking power and no brake drag.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until the pads are against the disc.
•
Refer to the Wheel Bearing Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Spoke Tightness Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Rim Runout Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Wheels (Rims)
•
When installing the rim, set the rim following position.
○
The distance [A] from the brake disc seating surface [B] of the front hub [C] to left end of the front rim [D] should be as follows.
View from Front [E]
Distance: 26.8 ±0.5 mm (1.06 ±0.020 in.)
○
The distance [A] from the brake disc seating surface [B] of the rear hub [C] to right end of the rear rim [D] should be as follows.
View from Rear [E]
Distance: 32.8 ±0.5 mm (1.29 ±0.020 in.)
•
Check the rim runout (see Rim Runout Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Visually inspect the front and rear axle for damages.
If the axle is damaged or bent, replace it.
•
Place the axle on V blocks that are 100 mm (3.94 in.)
[A] apart, and set a dial gauge [B] on the axle at a point
• halfway between the blocks.
Turn [C] the axle to measure the runout.
○
The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout.
Axle Runout/100 mm (3.94 in.)
Standard: TIR 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the axle.
Tires
•
Refer to the Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove the wheel (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal).
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel directly on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
•
To maintain wheel balance, mark [A] the air valve position on the tire with chalk so that the tire can be reinstalled in the same position.
Align [B]
•
Remove the air valve cap [C].
•
Take out the valve core [A] to let out the air.
•
Remove the air valve nut.
•
Loosen the bead protector nut [A].
•
Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant. This helps the tire beads slip off the rim flanges.
NOTICE
Never lubricate with engine oil or petroleum distillates because they will deteriorate the tire.
Tires
•
Break the beads away from both sides of the rim with the bead breaker [A].
Special Tool - Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072
•
Lubricate the tire irons [A] (included in Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072) and rim protectors [B] with soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.
Special Tool - Rim Protector: 57001-1063
•
Step on the side of the tire opposite air valve, and pry the tire off the rim with the tire irons of the bead breaker protecting the rim with rim protectors.
NOTICE
Take care not to insert the tire irons so deeply that the tube gets damaged.
•
Remove the tube and bead protector when one side of the tire is pried off.
•
Pry the other side of the tire off the rim.
NOTE
○
The tires should be installed so that the ID serial NO.
[A] faces to left side.
•
Inspect the rim and tire before installing the tire, and replace them if necessary.
•
Install the tube band onto the rim.
•
Apply a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant to both the tire bead and rim flange.
Tires
•
Position the tire on the rim so that the air valve [A] is at the tire balance mark [B] (the chalk mark made during removal).
○
The new tire is no marked.
•
Insert the valve stem into the rim, and screw the nut on loosely.
•
Fit the rim protectors and use tire irons to install the tire bead.
Special Tools - Rim Protector: 57001-1063
Bead Breaker Assembly: 57001-1072
NOTICE
To prevent rim damage, be sure to place the rim protectors at any place the tire irons are applied.
•
Install the tire on the rim from the opposite side of the air valve.
○
Fit the rim protectors and insert the tire irons so deeply that the tube is not damaged.
•
Install the bead protector onto the rim.
•
Similarly, slip the tire bead over the rim on the other side.
•
Check that the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim.
•
Tighten the bead protector nut [A], air valve nut [B] and air valve cap [C].
•
Adjust the tire air pressure to the specified pressure (see
Air Pressure Inspection/Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Hub Bearing
•
Remove:
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal)
Grease Seals [A]
•
Use the bearing remover to remove the hub bearings [A].
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Head, 20 × 22 [B]:
57001-1293
Bearing Remover Shaft, 13 [C]: 57001
-1377
•
Remove the collar [D].
•
Remove:
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal)
Grease Seals [A]
Circlip [B]
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Use the bearing remover to remove the right hub bearing
[A].
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place wooden blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Head, 25 × 28 [B]:
57001-1346
Bearing Remover Shaft, 13 [C]: 57001
-1377
•
Remove the collar [D].
Hub Bearing
•
Using a suitable bar [A], tap the around of the bearing inner race evenly to remove the bearings [B].
•
Before installing the hub bearings, blow any dirt or foreign particles out of the hub with compressed air to prevent contamination of the bearings.
•
Replace the bearings with new ones.
NOTE
○
Install the bearings so that the marked side or sealed side faces out.
•
Install the front hub bearings in the following sequence.
○
Press in the left side bearing [A] until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○
Insert the collar [B] in the front hub [C].
○
Press in the right side bearing [D] until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the rear hub bearings in the following sequence.
○
Press in the right side bearing until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○
Insert the collar in the rear hub.
○
Press in the left side bearings until it is bottomed.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○
Replace the circlip with a new one and install a new circlip.
Special Tool - Inside Circlip Pliers: 57001-143
•
Replace the grease seal [A] with a new one.
•
Press in the grease seal so that the seal surface is flush
[B] with the end of the hole.
•
Apply high-temperature grease to the grease seal lip.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set [C]: 57001-1129
Hub Bearing
Since the hub bearings are made to extremely close tolerances, the clearance cannot normally be measured.
NOTE
○
Do not remove any bearings for inspection. If any bearings are removed, they will need to be replaced with new ones.
•
Turn each bearing in the hub back and forth [A] while checking for plays, roughness, or binding.
If bearing play roughness, or binding is found, replace the bearing.
•
Examine the bearing seal [B] for tears or leakage.
If the seal is torn or is leaking, replace the bearing.
NOTE
○
Since the hub bearings are packed with grease and sealed, lubrication is not required.
Table of Contents
11
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Rear Sprocket Nuts
HO: Apply heavy oil.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
N·m
34
Torque kgf·m
3.5
ft·lb
25
Remarks
R
Specifications
Drive Chain
Chain Slack
Item
Chain 20-link Length
Standard Chain:
Make
Type
Link
Sprocket
Rear Sprocket Warp
Standard
52
∼
58 mm (2.0
∼
2.3 in.)
317.5
∼
318.2 mm (12.50
∼
12.53 in.)
DAIDO
DID 520DMA4
114 links
TIR 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) or less
Service Limit
– – –
323 mm (12.7 in.)
– – –
– – –
– – –
TIR 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
Special Tool
Outside Circlip Pliers:
57001-144
Drive Chain
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Check that the notch [A] of the chain adjuster [B] aligns with the same swingarm mark [C] as the other side one.
WARNING
Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition.
Be sure the wheel is properly aligned.
•
This procedure is the same as Drive Chain Slack Adjustment (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Drive Chain Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove the engine sprocket cover (see Engine Sprocket
Removal).
•
Remove the clip [A] from the master link with pliers.
•
Remove:
Link Plate [A]
Master Link [B]
Drive Chain [C]
Drive Chain
•
Fit the drive chain onto the sprockets.
○
Place the drive chain ends on the rear sprocket.
•
Install the master link [A] from the wheel side.
•
Install the link plate [A] so that the mark faces out.
•
Install the clip [B] so that the closed end [C] of the “U” pointed in the direction of chain rotation [D].
•
Adjust the drive chain slack (see Drive Chain Slack Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the engine sprocket cover (see Engine Sprocket
Installation).
Sprockets
•
Remove:
Engine Sprocket Cover Bolts [A]
Engine Sprocket Cover [B]
Drive Chain Guide [C]
•
Remove:
Circlip [A]
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Remove the engine sprocket [B] from the drive chain [C].
•
Engage the drive chain [A] to the engine sprocket [B] and install the engine sprocket on the output shaft.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
•
Install the new circlip on the groove of the output shaft.
Special Tool - Outside Circlip Pliers: 57001-144
•
Run the gear position switch lead properly (see Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Install the drive chain guide and engine sprocket cover, and then tighten the bolts.
○
Do not pinch the gear position switch lead.
•
Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter).
NOTICE
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so that the disc does not touch the ground.
Sprockets
•
Remove:
Rear Sprocket Bolts [A] and Nuts
Washers
Rear Sprocket [B]
•
Replace the rear sprocket nuts with new ones.
•
Install the rear sprocket [A] so that the marked side [B] faces out.
•
Install the rear sprocket bolts and washers.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Sprocket Nuts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
•
Refer to the Sprocket Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Rear Sprocket Warp (Runout) Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Table of Contents
12
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
2 Front Brake Reservoir Cap Screws
3 Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
4 Brake Lever Pivot Bolt
5 Brake Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut
6 Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
7 Front Brake Pad Pin
8 Caliper Bleed Valve
9 Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
B: Apply brake fluid.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
N·m
25
1.5
8.8
5.9
5.9
9.8
17
7.8
25
Torque kgf·m
2.5
0.15
0.90
0.60
0.60
1.0
1.7
0.80
2.5
ft·lb
18
13 in·lb
78 in·lb
52 in·lb
52 in·lb
87 in·lb
13
69 in·lb
18
Remarks
S
Si
L
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Brake Hose Banjo Bolts
2 Rear Brake Reservoir Cap Bolts
3 Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts
4 Rear Master Cylinder Push Rod Locknut
5 Brake Pedal Bolt
6 Rear Caliper Holder Shaft
7 Rear Brake Pad Pin
8 Rear Brake Pad Pin Plug
9 Caliper Bleed Valve
10 Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts
B: Apply brake fluid.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
Si: Apply silicone grease (ex. PBC grease).
N·m
25
1.5
9.8
17
25
27
17
2.4
7.8
23
Torque kgf·m
2.5
0.15
1.0
1.7
2.5
2.8
1.7
0.24
0.80
2.3
ft·lb
18
13 in·lb
87 in·lb
13
18
20
13
21 in·lb
69 in·lb
17
Remarks
G, L
Si
L
Specifications
Item
Brake Lever
Lever Free Play
Brake Fluid
Grade:
Front
Rear
Brake Pads
Lining Thickness:
Front
Rear
Brake Discs
Thickness:
Front
Rear
Runout
Standard
Adjustable (to suit rider)
DOT3 or DOT4
DOT3 or DOT4
Service Limit
– – –
– – –
– – –
4.0 mm (0.16 in.)
6.4 mm (0.25 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
1 mm (0.04 in.)
2.85
∼
3.15 mm (0.112
∼
0.124 in.)
3.85
∼
4.15 mm (0.152
∼
0.163 in.)
TIR 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) or less
2.5 mm (0.10 in.)
3.5 mm (0.14 in.)
TIR 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
Special Tools
Jack:
57001-1238
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Brake Lever, Brake Pedal
•
Refer to the Brake Lever and Pedal Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Brake Lever and Pedal Adjustment in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Joint Pin [B]
Washer [C]
NOTE
○
Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake pedal.
•
Remove:
Brake Pedal Bolt [A]
Brake Pedal Return Spring [B]
Brake Pedal [C] and Washer
•
Install the return spring [A].
•
Replace the O-rings [A] with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the O-rings and shaft portion [B] of the brake pedal bolt.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the thread of the
• brake pedal bolt.
Install the brake pedal [C].
○
Install the washer [D] inside the pedal.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Pedal Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
Brake Lever, Brake Pedal
•
Replace the cotter pin with a new one.
•
Install the joint pin, washer and new cotter pin.
•
Bend the ends [A] of the cotter pin.
•
Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Lever and
Pedal Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
Brake Fluid
WARNING
When working with the disc brake, observe the precautions listed below.
1. Never reuse old brake fluid.
2. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left unsealed or that has been open for a long time.
3. Do not mix two types and brands of fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective. It may also cause the rubber brake parts to deteriorate.
4. Don’t leave the reservoir cap off for any length of time to avoid moisture contamination of the fluid.
5. Don’t change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind is blowing.
6. Except for the disc pads and disc, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning of the brake parts. Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, engine oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts.
Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash off completely and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used in the disc brake.
7. When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them.
Clean off any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent. Do not use one which will leave an oily residue. Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
8. Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
9. If any of the brake line fittings or the bleed valve is opened at any time, the AIR MUST BE BLED
FROM THE BRAKE LINE.
•
Refer to the Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Brake Fluid Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Brake Fluid
The brake fluid has a very low compression coefficient so that almost all the movement of the brake lever or pedal is transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air, however, is easily compressed. When air enters the brake lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used in compressing the air. This will make the lever or pedal feel spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.
WARNING
Air in the brake lines diminish braking performance and can cause an accident resulting in injury or death. If the brake lever has a soft or "spongy" feeling mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Do not operate the vehicle and service the brake system immediately.
NOTE
○
The procedure to bleed the front brake line is as follows.
Bleeding the rear brake line is the same as for the front brake.
•
Level the brake fluid reservoir.
•
Remove:
Screws [A]
Reservoir Cap [B]
Diaphragm
•
Check that there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir.
•
Slowly pump the brake lever several times until no air bubbles rise up from the bottom of the reservoir.
○
Bleed the air completely from the master cylinder by this operation.
•
Remove the rubber cap [A] from the bleed valve on the caliper.
•
Attach a clear plastic hose [B] to the bleed valve on the caliper, and run the other end of the hose into a container.
Brake Fluid
•
Bleed the brake line and caliper as follows:
○
Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen coming out into the clear plastic hose.
1. Pump the brake lever until it becomes hard, and apply the brake and hold it [A].
2. Quickly open and close [B] the bleed valve while holding the brake applied.
3. Release the brake [C].
NOTE
○
The fluid level must be checked often during the bleeding operation and replenished with fresh brake fluid as necessary. If the fluid in the reservoir runs almost out any time during bleeding operation, the bleeding operation must be done over again from the beginning since air will have entered the line.
○
Tap the brake hose lightly from the caliper to the reservoir for easier bleeding.
•
Remove the clear plastic hose.
•
Tighten the bleed valve, and install the rubber cap.
Torque - Caliper Bleed Valve: 7.8 N·m (0.80 kgf·m, 69 in·lb)
•
Check the fluid level (see Brake Fluid Level Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Install the diaphragm and reservoir cap.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Reservoir Cap Screws: 1.5 N·m (0.15 kgf·m,
13 in·lb)
•
After bleeding is done, check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
Caliper
Front Brake
•
Loosen the brake pad pin [A] before the caliper [B] removal if the caliper is to be disassembled.
•
Loosen the banjo bolt [C] so as not to spill brake fluid.
NOTE
○
If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper before brake hose removal (see Caliper Rubber Parts
Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Caliper Mounting Bolts [D]
Banjo Bolt
Caliper
NOTICE
Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that is spilled.
Rear Brake
•
Remove:
Caliper Guard Bolts [A]
Caliper Guard [B]
Disc Guard Bolts [C]
Disc Guard [D]
•
Remove the pad pin plug [A] and loosen the pad pin [B] if the caliper [C] is to be disassembled.
•
Loosen the banjo bolt [D] so as not to spill brake fluid.
NOTE
○
If the caliper is to be disassembled after removal and compressed air is not available, disassemble the caliper before brake hose removal (see Caliper Rubber Parts
Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Banjo Bolt
Caliper
NOTICE
Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that is spilled.
Caliper
•
Install the brake pad if it was removed (see Brake Pad
Installation).
Front Brake
•
Install the caliper and tighten the bolts.
Torque - Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m,
18 ft·lb)
Rear Brake
•
Install the rear wheel and caliper (see Rear Wheel Installation in the Wheels/Tires chapter).
•
Install the brake hose lower end.
○
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.
•
Refer to the Caliper Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Caliper
The fluid seal(s) [A] around the piston maintains the proper pad/disc clearance. If this seal is not in good condition, pad wear will increase, and constant pad drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature.
•
Replace the fluid seals under any of the following conditions.
○
Fluid leakage around the pad
○
Brakes overheat
○
There is a large difference in left and right pad wear.
○
The seal is stuck to the piston.
If the fluid seal(s) is replaced, replace the dust seal(s) [B] as well. Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are changed.
Front Caliper [C]
Rear Caliper [D]
•
Check that the dust seals are not cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.
If they show any damage, replace them.
•
Check that the dust boot [A] and friction boot [B] are not cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.
If they show any damage, replace it.
Front Caliper [C]
Rear Caliper [D]
Caliper
•
Visually inspect the piston(s) [A] and cylinder surfaces.
Replace the caliper if the cylinder and piston are badly scores or rusty.
Front Caliper [B]
Rear Caliper [C]
The caliper body must slide smoothly on the caliper holder shafts [A]. If the body does not slide smoothly, one pad will wear more than the other, pad wear will increase, and constant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature.
•
Check to see that the caliper holder shafts are not badly worn or stepped, and that the friction boots are not damaged.
If the friction boot is damaged, replace the friction boot.
To replace the friction boot, remove the pads and caliper bracket.
If the caliper holder shaft is damage, replace the caliper assembly (front caliper), caliper bracket or holder shaft
(rear caliper).
Torque - Rear Caliper Holder Shaft: 27 N·m (2.8 kgf·m, 20 ft·lb)
Front Caliper [B]
Rear Caliper [C]
Brake Pad
Front Brake
•
Remove the pad pin [A].
•
Remove the piston side pad [B].
•
Push the caliper holder toward the piston, and then remove another pad [C].
Rear Brake
•
Remove:
Pad Pin Plug [A]
•
Remove the pad pin [A].
•
Remove the piston side pad [B].
•
Push the caliper holder toward the piston, and then remove another pad [C].
•
Push the caliper piston(s) in by hand as far as they will
• go.
Install the piston side pad first, and then another pad.
○
Fit the pad end into the groove [A] of the anti-rattle spring securely.
Front Brake [B]
Rear Brake [C]
Brake Pad
•
Tighten the brake pad pin.
Torque - Brake Pad Pin: 17 N·m (1.7 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb)
Rear Brake Pad Pin Plug: 2.4 N·m (0.24 kgf·m, 21 in·lb)
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever or pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death. Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever or pedal is obtained by pumping the lever or pedal until the pads are against the disc.
•
Refer to the Brake Pad Wear Inspection in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
Master Cylinder
NOTICE
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted or plastic surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely washed up immediately.
•
Remove the banjo bolt [A] to disconnect the brake hose upper end [B] from the master cylinder [C].
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
•
Remove the clamp bolts [A], and take off the master cylinder [B] as an assembly with the brake lever.
•
Install the master cylinder [A].
176.95 mm (6.967 in.) [B]
Horizontal Line of Frame [C]
Handlebars [D]
Horizontal Line of Cap Surface [E]
Master Cylinder
•
The master cylinder clamp must be installed with the arrow mark [A] upward.
•
Tighten the upper clamp bolt [B] first, and then the lower clamp bolt [C].
○
There will be a gap at the lower mating surface of the clamp after tightening.
Torque - Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 8.8 N·m (0.90
kgf·m, 78 in·lb)
•
Install the brake hose.
○
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake lever before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake lever is obtained by pumping the lever until the pads are against the disc.
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Joint Pin [B]
Washer [C]
NOTE
○
Pull off the joint pin while pressing down the brake pedal.
•
Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts [D], and remove the master cylinder [E] backward.
•
Remove the brake hose banjo bolt [F].
○
When removing the brake hose, temporarily secure the end of the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
•
Install the brake hose.
○
Replace the washers [A] on each side of hose fitting [B] with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Brake Hose Banjo Bolt: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install the rear master cylinder.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Master Cylinder
•
Replace the cotter pin with a new one.
•
Install the joint pin, washer and new cotter pin.
•
Bend the ends [A] of the cotter pin.
•
Check the brake pedal position (see Brake Lever and
Pedal Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Bleed the brake line (see Brake Line Bleeding).
•
Check the brake for good braking power, no brake drag, and no fluid leakage.
WARNING
After servicing, it takes several applications of the brake pedal before the brake pads contact the disc, which could result in increased stopping distance and cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Do not attempt to ride the motorcycle until a firm brake pedal is obtained by pumping the pedal until the pads are against the disc.
•
Refer to the Brake Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Brake Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Brake Master Cylinder Rubber Parts Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Master Cylinder
•
Disassemble the front and rear master cylinders.
•
Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the inner wall of each master cylinder [A] and on the outside of each piston [B].
If a master cylinder or piston shows any damage, replace them.
•
Inspect the primary [C] and secondary [D] cups.
If a cup is worn, damaged, softened (rotted), or swollen, the piston assembly should be replace to renew the cups.
If fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the piston assembly should be replaced to renew the cup.
•
Check the dust covers [E] for damage.
If they are damaged, replace them.
•
Check that the relief [F] and supply [G] ports are not plugged.
If the small relief port becomes plugged, the brake pads will drag on the disc. Blow the ports clean with compressed air.
•
Check the piston return springs [H] for any damage.
If a spring is damaged, replace it.
Front Master Cylinder [J]
Rear Master Cylinder [K]
Brake Disc
•
Remove the wheels (see Front/Rear Wheel Removal in the Wheels/Tires chapter).
•
Remove the mounting bolts, and take off the disc.
•
Install the brake disc on the wheel so that the marked side
[A] faces out.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the brake disc mounting bolts [B].
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
Rear Brake Disc Mounting Bolts: 23 N·m (2.3
kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
•
Visually inspect the disc [A].
If it is scratched or damaged, replace the disc.
•
Measure the thickness of each disc at the point [B] where it has worn the most.
Disc Thickness
Standard:
Front
Rear
Service Limit:
Front
Rear
2.85
∼
3.15 mm (0.112
∼
0.124 in.)
3.85
∼
4.15 mm (0.152
∼
0.163 in.)
2.5 mm (0.10 in.)
3.5 mm (0.14 in.)
Replace the disc if it has worn past the service limit.
•
Place a jack under the motorcycle so that the front/rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Set up a dial gauge against the disc [A].
○
For the front disc, turn the handlebars fully to one side.
•
Measure the disc runout while rotating [B] the wheel slowly.
Disc Runout
Standard: TIR 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.3 mm (0.01 in.)
If the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.
Brake Hose
•
Refer to the Brake Hose Replacement in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Brake Hoses and Connections Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
Table of Contents
Drive Chain Guide, Guide Roller, Chain Slipper Wear Inspection ....................................
13
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
1 Air Pressure Relief Screws
2 Left Front Fork Base Valve Assembly
3 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
4 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
5 Right Front Fork Spring Preload Adjuster
6 Left Front Fork Cylinder Unit
7 Right Front Fork Spring Adjuster Unit
8
Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly
Locknut
9 Left Front Fork Adjuster Assembly
10
11
Fastener
Right Front Fork Bottom Plug Locknut
Right Front Fork Bottom Plug
N·m
1.3
30
20
22
30
34
34
22
69
22
69
Torque kgf·m
0.13
3.1
2.0
2.2
3.1
3.5
3.5
2.2
7.0
2.2
7.0
ft·lb
12 in·lb
22
15
16
22
25
25
16
51
16
51
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
FO: Apply front fork oil.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
Remarks
AL, L
AL
L
L
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Upper)
2 Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Lower)
3 Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
4 Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
5 Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
6 Gas Reservoir Damping Adjuster Assembly
7 Rear Shock Absorber Spring Locknut
8 Piston Rod Locknut
G: Apply grease.
R: Replacement Parts
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
Torque
N·m kgf·m
39
34
4.0
3.5
59
98
59
29.5
45
37
6.0
10.0
6.0
3.01
4.6
3.8
ft·lb
29
25
44
72
44
21.8
33
27
Remarks
R
R
R
R
R
R
Specifications
Item
Front Fork
Air Pressure
Rebound Damping Adjustment
(Left Fork only)
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully clockwise)
Compression Damping Adjustment
(Left Fork only)
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully clockwise)
Spring Preload Adjustment (Right
Fork only)
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully counterclockwise)
Fork Oil:
Type
Capacity (Left Front Fork):
Cylinder Unit
Cylinder Unit Oil Level
Outer Tube
Standard
Atmospheric pressure
10 clicks counterclockwise
(EUR, BR) 12 clicks counterclockwise
8 clicks counterclockwise
(EUR, BR) 10 clicks counterclockwise
15 clicks clockwise
(EUR, BR) 7 clicks clockwise
SHOWA SS-19 or equivalent
330 mL (11.16 US oz.)
115
∼
123 mm (4.53
∼
4.84 in.)
320 ±2.5 mL (10.82 ±0.085 US oz.)
(EUR, BR) 300 ±2.5 mL (10.14
±0.085 US oz.)
Capacity (Right Front Fork) 235 ±2.5 mL (7.95 ±0.085 US oz.)
Service Limit
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
20 ±4 clicks
(Adjustable Range)
22 ±6 clicks
(Adjustable Range)
40 ±6 clicks
– – –
– – –
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
300
∼
340 mL
(10.14
∼
11.50
US oz.)
(Adjustable Range)
230
∼
378 mL
(7.78
∼
12.78 US oz.)
647 mm (25.5 in.) Fork Spring Free Length (Right
Fork only)
Rear Suspension (Uni-Trak):
Rear Shock Absorber
Rebound Damping Adjustment
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully clockwise)
660 mm (26.0 in.)
12 clicks counterclockwise
Spring Preload Adjustment
(Lower surface of the adjusting nut from the center of the upper mounting hole)
127.2 mm (5.01 in.)
Rear Shock Spring Free Length 265 mm (10.4 in.)
Rear Shock Oil:
Type
Capacity
Gas Reservoir
High Speed Compression
Damping Adjustment
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully clockwise)
SHOWA SS-25 or equivalent approx. 380 mL (12.8 US oz.)
2 turns out
(Adjustable Range)
22 ±5 clicks
(Adjustable Range)
125.8
(4.95
∼
∼
139.5 mm
5.49 in.)
260 mm (10.2 in.)
– – –
– – –
(Adjustable Range)
4 ±1/2 turns out
Specifications
Item
Low Speed Compression
Damping Adjustment
(from the seated position adjuster turned fully clockwise)
Gas Pressure
Standard
12 clicks counterclockwise
980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm², 142 psi)
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
Sleeve Outside Diameter:
Tie-Rod 19.987
∼
20.000 mm
(0.78689
∼
0.78740 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large
Small
Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt
Runout
19.987
∼
20.000 mm
(0.78689
∼
0.78740 in.)
15.950
∼
16.000 mm
(0.62795
∼
0.62992 in.)
TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
Service Limit
(Adjustable Range)
19 ±6 clicks
– – –
19.85 mm (0.7815 in.)
19.85 mm (0.7815 in.)
15.92 mm (0.6268 in.)
TIR 0.2 mm (0.008
in.)
Special Tools
Oil Seal & Bearing Remover:
57001-1058
Hook Wrench R37.5, R42:
57001-1101
Bearing Driver Set:
57001-1129
Jack:
57001-1238
Fork Oil Seal Driver, 48:
57001-1509
Hook Wrench T=3.2 R37:
57001-1539
Jack Attachment:
57001-1608
Front Fork
The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is atmospheric pressure. Air pressure in the fork legs increase with normal use, so the fork action stiffens during operation. Release air pressure prior to each race through the air pressure relief screw.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Remove the screws [A] on the base valve assembly (left front fork) [B] and spring preload adjuster (right front fork)
[C] to let the air pressure equalize.
NOTE
○
Do not use the sidestand when adjusting the air pressure.
○
Adjust the air pressure when the front forks are cold.
•
Replace the O-rings with new ones.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Air Pressure Relief Screws: 1.3 N·m (0.13 kgf·m,
12 in·lb)
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Turn the adjuster [A] on the left front fork base valve assembly [B] with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click. Adjust the compression damping to suit your preference under special condition.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Front Fork
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Compression Damping Adjuster Setting
Standard: 8 clicks [B]
(EUR, BR) 10 clicks counterclockwise
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Turn the adjuster [A] on the left front fork cylinder valve
[B] with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click.
Adjust the rebound damping to suit your preference under special condition.
NOTICE
Do not force the rebound damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting
Standard: 10 clicks [B]
(EUR, BR) 12 clicks counterclockwise
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the front wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Turn the adjuster [A] with the wrench until you feel a click.
Adjust the spring preload to suit your preference under special condition.
NOTICE
Do not force the spring preload adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Front Fork
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully counterclockwise.
Spring Preload Adjuster Setting
Standard: 15 clicks [B]
(EUR, BR) 7 clicks clockwise
Harder (Clockwise) [C]
Softer (Counterclockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to spring preload, use it within the adjustable range.
•
Refer to the Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove:
Number Plate (see Number Plate Removal in the Frame chapter)
Bolts [A] and Brake Hose Clamps [B]
Bolts [C] and Guard [D]
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts [E]
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
•
Put the caliper [A] on suitable stand [B] so that it does not dangle.
•
Loosen the upper [A] and lower [B] front fork clamp bolts.
Front Fork
•
Pull out the front fork downward with a twisting motion [A].
•
Install the front fork.
○
The length [A] between the upper end [B] of the outer tube and steering stem head [C] is 5 mm (0.20 in.).
•
Run the cables and hose according to the Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Remove the front fork clamp bolts (upper) [A] and apply a non-permanent locking agent to the bolts.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower) [B]: 22 N·m (2.2
kgf·m, 16 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Drain the fork oil (see Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove the locknut [A].
•
Wrap the piston rod end [B] with a vinyl tape.
•
Push out [C] the piston rod [D].
Front Fork
•
Separate the inner tube [A] from the outer tube [B] as follows:
○
Slide up the spring band [C].
○
Slide up the dust seal [D].
○
Remove the retaining ring [A] from the outer tube.
○
Grasp the tubes and stroke the inner tube up and down
[A] several times. The shock to fork seal separates the inner tube from the outer tube.
•
Remove:
Bushings [A]
Washer [B]
Oil Seal [C]
Retaining Ring [D]
Dust Seal [E]
Spring Band [F]
•
Wipe off the oil from the removed parts.
NOTE
○
Disassemble the right front fork in the same way.
•
Replace the following parts with new ones:
Dust Seal [A] with Spring Band
Retaining Ring [B]
Oil Seal [C]
Bushings [D]
•
Place an oil coated plastic bag [E] over the end of the inner tube to protect the oil seals.
○
The inner tube bushings groove has a sharp edge [F] that cut out the sealing lip of the seals as they are pushed down over the inner tube.
•
Apply grease to the oil seal.
•
Install in order these parts on the inner tube.
Front Fork
•
When assembling the new outer tube bushings, washer and new oil seal [A], hold the oil seal against the new one, and tap the oil seal with the fork oil seal driver [B] until it stops.
Special Tool - Fork Oil Seal Driver, 48: 57001-1509
•
Install the retaining ring to the outer tube.
•
Push the dust seal into the outer tube, and put the spring band on the dust seal.
•
Insert the piston rod [A] into the fork cylinder [B].
○
Wrap the piston rod end with a vinyl tape.
○
Push in [A] the piston rod with a suitable tool [B].
•
Remove a vinyl tape and install the locknut [C].
NOTE
○
Assemble the right front fork in the same way.
•
Pour the fork oil (see Front Fork Oil Change in the Periodic
Maintenance chapter).
Front Fork
•
Inspect the adjuster assembly [A] and push rod (left front fork only) [B] for damage.
If they are damaged, replace them with new ones.
•
Replace the O-ring [C] on the adjuster assembly with a new one.
•
Inspect the threads portion [A] and spring [B] of base valve assembly [C] for damage.
If they are damaged, replace the base valve assembly with a new one.
•
Replace the O-rings [D] with new ones.
•
Inspect the piston rods [A] of the cylinder unit [B]/spring adjuster unit [C] for scratches or bending.
If it has scratches or is bent, replace the cylinder unit and/or spring adjuster unit with a new one.
•
Visually inspect the inner tube [A].
If there is any damage, replace the inner tube. Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal and dust seal, replace the oil seal and dust seal whenever the inner tube is replaced.
NOTICE
If the inner tube is badly bent or creased, replace it.
Excessive bending, followed by subsequent straightening, can weaken the inner tube.
Front Fork
•
Temporarily assemble the inner [A] and outer [B] tubes, and pump them back and forth manually to check for smooth operation.
If you feel binding or catching, the inner and outer tubes must be replaced.
WARNING
A straightened inner or outer fork tube may fall in use, possibly causing an accident resulting in serious injury or death. Replace a badly bent or damaged inner or outer tube and inspect the other tube carefully before reusing it.
•
Inspect the dust seal [A] for any signs of deterioration or damage.
Replace it if necessary.
•
Since a spring becomes shorter as it weakens, check its free length [A] to determine its condition.
If the spring is shorter than the service limit, it must be replaced.
Fork Spring Free Length
Standard: 660 mm (26.0 in.)
Service Limit: 647 mm (25.5 in.)
Rear Shock Absorber
To suit to various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an optional one. Also the damping force can be adjusted easily so changing oil viscosity unnecessary.
•
Turn the rebound damping adjuster [A] on the rear shock absorber lower end with a standard tip screwdriver until you feel a click.
If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.
NOTICE
Do not force the rebound damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting
Standard: 12 clicks [B] counterclockwise
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
NOTE
○
Adjustment of the rebound damping adjuster for the rear suspension will slightly affect the compression damping force. Always make any damping adjustments in small steps and test their effects before using them in competition.
There are two adjustments you can make to the rear shock absorber gas reservoir.
High Speed Compression Damping Adjuster [A]
Low Speed Compression Damping Adjuster [B]
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Adjust the high speed compression damping, turn the high speed compression damping adjuster with a wrench.
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
High Speed Compression Damping Adjuster Setting
Standard: 2 turns out [B]
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
•
Adjust the low speed compression damping, turn the low speed compression damping adjuster with a standard tip screwdriver.
If the damping feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table.
NOTICE
Do not force the compression damping adjuster beyond the fully seated position, or the adjusting mechanism may be damaged.
Seated position [A]: adjuster turned fully clockwise.
Low Speed Compression Damping Adjuster Setting
Standard: 12 clicks [B] counterclockwise
Softer (Counterclockwise) [C]
Harder (Clockwise) [D]
*: Although you can turn the adjuster beyond the adjustable range, effecting no changes to damping force, use it within the adjustable range.
NOTE
○
Adjustment of the compression damping adjusters for the rear suspension will slightly affect the rebound damping force.
Always make any damping adjustments in small steps and test their effects before using them in competition.
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Side Covers (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter)
Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Rear Frame (see Rear Frame Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Using the hook wrenches [A], loosen the locknut [B].
Special Tools - Hook Wrench R37.5, R42: 57001-1101
Hook Wrench T=3.2 R37: 57001-1539
•
Using the hook wrench [A], turn the adjusting nut [B] as required. Turning the adjusting nut downward marks the spring action harder and upward softer.
Special Tool - Hook Wrench R37.5, R42: 57001-1101
Spring Preload Adjustment
(Lower surface of the adjusting nut from the center of the upper mounting hole [A])
Standard:
Adjustable
Range:
127.2 mm (5.01 in.)
125.8
∼
139.5 mm (4.95
∼
5.49 in.)
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Spring Locknut: 45 N·m (4.6
kgf·m, 33 ft·lb)
•
After adjusting, move the spring up and down to make sure that the spring is seated.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Since the spring becomes shorter as it weakens, check its free length [A] to determine its condition.
Shock Absorber Spring Free Length
Standard: 265 mm (10.4 in.)
Service Limit: 260 mm (10.2 in.)
If the free length falls below the service limit, replace the spring.
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal in the Frame chapter)
Side Covers (see Side Cover Removal in the Frame chapter)
Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Rear Frame (see Rear Frame Removal in the Frame chapter)
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Remove the upper mounting bolt and nut [A].
•
Remove the lower mounting bolt and nut [B], and take off the rear shock absorber.
○
Take care not to hit the rear shock absorber to the swingarm.
•
Replace the rear shock absorber mounting nuts with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seals and grease seals.
•
Install the rear shock absorber.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Upper): 39
N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb)
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Lower): 34
N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
In addition to the standard spring, heavy and light springs are available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select a proper one according to the rider’s weight or course conditions.
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Clean the threaded portion on the upper of the rear shock absorber.
Rear Shock Absorber
•
Hold the upper end of the rear shock absorber in a vise with soft jaws [A] or a heavy cloth.
•
Using the hook wrenches [B], loosen the locknut [C] and turn the adjusting nut all way up.
Special Tools - Hook Wrench R37.5, R42: 57001-1101
Hook Wrench T=3.2 R37: 57001-1539
•
Slide the spring seat [A].
•
Remove the circlip [B] from the shock absorber and lift off the spring seat and spring [C].
•
Remove the rear shock absorber from the vise.
•
Exchange the spring for an optional part.
○
Install the spring so that large diameter end [A] faces upward.
•
Replace the circlip with a new one.
•
Install the spring seat and new circlip.
•
Adjust the spring preload (see Spring Preload Adjustment).
•
Install the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber
Installation).
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Refer to the Rear Shock Absorber Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Rear Shock Absorber Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Visually inspect the following items.
Smooth Stroke
Oil Leakage
Crack or Dent
If there is any damage to the rear shock absorber, replace it.
•
Visually inspect the oil seal [A].
If it show any signs of damage, replace it.
Rear Shock Absorber
WARNING
Pressurized nitrogen may explode when heated.
The rear shock contains nitrogen gas.
To avoid an explosion, do not incinerate the shock body without first releasing the nitrogen and removing the shraeder valve.
•
Remove the rear shock absorber (see Rear Shock Absorber Removal).
•
Insert a suitable tool into the gas reservoir cap hole [A] to release the nitrogen gas.
Swingarm
•
Remove:
Rear Wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Rear Flap (see Rear Flap Removal in the Frame chapter)
Brake Pedal Bolt and Return Spring (see Brake Pedal
Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Remove:
Bolts [A] and Nuts
Chain Guide Plate [B]
Chain Guide [C]
Screws [D] and Brake Hose Clamps [E]
•
Put the caliper [A] on suitable stand [B] so that it does not dangle.
•
Remove the rocker arm pivot nut and bolt [A].
•
Remove the swingarm pivot shaft nut [B].
•
Pull out the swingarm pivot shaft [C], and remove the swingarm [D].
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the swingarm slightly.
Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Remove the screws [A].
•
Remove the chain slipper [B] from the swingarm.
Swingarm
•
Apply plenty of grease to the inside of the needle bearings, sleeves, and grease seals.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the chain slipper screws.
•
Install the chain slipper, and tighten the screws.
•
Replace with new ones:
Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the threads of the rocker arm pivot bolt.
•
Install the swingarm.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove:
Swingarm (see Swingarm Removal)
Collars [A]
Grease Seals [B]
Sleeves [C]
Needle Bearings [D]
•
Remove the needle bearings [E] using the oil seal & bearing remover.
Special Tool - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058
•
Replace the needle bearings and grease seals with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the grease seals, and needle bearings [A] [B].
NOTE
○
Install the needle bearings so that the manufacturer’s marks face out.
○
Install the grease seals so that the deep groove side of the rip inward.
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
•
Install the needle bearings, grease seals [C], sleeve [D] and collar [E].
○
The installation procedure is the same as the counter side.
Swingarm
•
Visually inspect the drive chain guide [A] and replace it if excessively worn or damaged.
•
Visually inspect the upper and lower chain guide rollers
[A] and replace them if excessively worn or damaged.
•
Visually inspect the chain slipper [A] on the swingarm and replace it if excessively worn or damaged.
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection.
Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the needle bearing [A] installed in the swingarm.
○
The rollers in a bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure.
Instead of measuring, visually inspect the bearing for abrasion, discoloration, or other damage.
If the needle bearing and sleeve show any signs of abnormal wear, discoloration, or damage, replace them as a set.
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
•
Place the jack under the frame so that the rear wheel is raised off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Remove:
Nut [A]
Lower Chain Guide Roller [B]
•
Remove:
Rear Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut [A]
Front Tie-Rod Mounting Bolt and Nut [B]
Tie-Rod [C]
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
•
Replace with new ones:
Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts
Lower Chain Guide Roller Nut
•
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seals.
•
Install:
Collars
Tie-Rod
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the threads of the tie-rod mounting bolts.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Tie-Rod Mounting Nuts: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
•
Install the lower chain guide roller, and tighten the nut.
•
Using the jack under the frame, raise the rear wheel off the ground.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001-1238
Jack Attachment: 57001-1608
•
Remove the rear tie-rod mounting bolt and nut [A].
NOTICE
When pulling out the mounting bolts, lift the rear wheel slightly. Forcing or tapping on a bolt could damage the bolt, sleeve, and bearing.
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
•
Remove:
Rear Shock Absorber Bolt and Nut (Lower) [A]
Rocker Arm Pivot Bolt and Nut [B]
Rocker Arm [C]
•
Replace with new ones:
Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Lower)
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut
Tie-Rod Mounting Nut
•
Apply plenty of grease to the needle bearings, oil seals and grease seals.
•
Install:
Collars and Sleeve
Rocker Arm
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the threads of the rocker arm pivot bolt and tie-rod mounting bolt.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Nut (Lower): 34
N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
Rocker Arm Pivot Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
Tie-Rod Mounting Nut: 59 N·m (6.0 kgf·m, 44 ft·lb)
•
Remove:
Tie-Rod (see Tie-Rod Removal)
Rocker Arm (see Rocker Arm Removal)
Collars [A]
Sleeves [B]
Oil Seals [C]
Grease Seals [D]
•
Remove the needle bearing [E], using the bearing driver set.
•
Remove the needle bearings [F], using the oil seal & bearing remover.
Special Tools - Oil Seal & Bearing Remover: 57001-1058
Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
•
Replace the needle bearings, oil seals and grease seals with new ones.
•
Apply plenty of grease to the oil seals, grease seals and needle bearings.
NOTE
○
Install the bearings so that the marked side faces out.
○
Install the oil seals so that the deep groove side faces inward.
○
Install the grease seals so that the groove side faces outward.
•
Install the needle bearings [A] [B], oil seals [C] and grease seals [D] so that their positions are as shown.
○
The other side is also the same procedures.
Front [E]
Right Side [F]
Left Side [G]
Rear Shock Absorber [H]
Tie-Rod [I]
Rocker Arm [J]
Deep Groove [K]
Groove [L]
Tie-Rod, Rocker Arm
NOTICE
Do not remove the bearings for inspection.
Removal may damage them.
•
Inspect the needle bearings installed in the tie-rod and rocker arm.
○
The needle bearing normally wear very little, and wear is difficult to measure. Instead of measuring, visually inspect the bearings for abrasion, discoloration, or other damage.
If there is any doubt as to the condition of either needle bearing, replace the bearing and sleeve as a set.
Uni-Trak Maintenance
•
Refer to the Swingarm and Uni-Trak Linkage Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Pull out the sleeves [A] of the tie-rod and rocker arm.
•
Measure the outside diameter of the sleeve.
Sleeve Outside Diameter
Standard:
Tie-Rod 19.987
∼
20.000 mm (0.78689
∼
0.78740 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large
19.987
∼
20.000 mm (0.78689
∼
0.78740 in.)
Small 15.950
∼
16.000 mm (0.62795
∼
0.62992 in.)
Service Limit:
Tie-Rod 19.85 mm (0.7815 in.)
Rocker Arm:
Large 19.85 mm (0.7815 in.)
Small 15.92 mm (0.6268 in.)
If the sleeve is worn past the service limit, replace the sleeve.
A bent bolt causes vibration, poor handling, and instability.
•
To measure the bolt runout, remove the bolt, place it in V blocks, and set a dial gauge to the bolt at a point halfway
• between the blocks.
Turn [A] the bolt to measure the runout.
○
The amount of dial variation is the amount of runout.
Rocker Arm Mounting Bolt Runout
Standard: TIR 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) or less
Service Limit: TIR 0.2 mm (0.008 in.)
If runout exceeds the service limit, replace the bolt.
Table of Contents
14
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Handlebar Clamp Bolts
2 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper)
3 Steering Stem Head Nut
4 Handlebar Holder Nuts
5 Steering Stem Nut
6 Brake Hose Clamp Bolt
7 Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower)
N·m
25
20
98
34
4.9
3.0
22
Torque kgf·m
2.5
2.0
10.0
3.5
0.50
0.31
2.2
ft·lb
18
15
72
25
43 in·lb
27 in·lb
16
Remarks
AL, 2T
AL, L
R
T
AL
AD: Apply adhesive.
AL: Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
T: First, tighten the stem nut with 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb) of torque, then loosen it and retighten it with 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m, 43 in·lb) of torque.
2T: Apply 2-stroke oil.
Special Tools
Bearing Puller:
57001-135
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 54.5:
57001-1077
Steering Stem Nut Wrench:
57001-1100
Steering Stem Bearing Driver:
57001-137
Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter, 34.5:
57001-1074
Head Pipe Outer Race Remover ID > 37 mm:
57001-1107
Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft:
57001-1075
Bearing Puller:
57001-1575
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 51.5:
57001-1076
Steering
•
Refer to the Steering Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Steering Adjustment in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove:
Number Plate [A] (see Number Plate Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Handlebar Pad [B]
Fuel Tank Breather Hose [C]
•
Remove:
Brake Hose Clamp Bolt [A]
Handlebar Clamp Bolts [B]
Handlebar Clamps [C]
Handlebars [D]
Steering Stem Head Nut [E] and Washer
•
Remove:
Front Wheel (see Front Wheel Removal in the
Wheels/Tires chapter)
Front Fender (see Front Fender Removal in the Frame chapter)
Front Forks (see Front Fork Removal in the Suspension chapter)
Steering Stem Head [A]
•
Hold the stem base [A] by hand, and remove the steering stem nut [B] with the steering stem nut wrench [C].
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
•
Remove the steering stem [D] and stem base from the head pipe.
Steering
•
Remove the upper stem bearing inner race (tapered roller bearing) [A].
•
Drive out the bearing outer races from the head pipe.
○
Remove the outer races pressed into the head pipe, using the head pipe outer race remover [A], and hammer the head pipe outer race remover to drive it out.
Special Tool - Head Pipe Outer Race Remover ID > 37 mm:
57001-1107
NOTE
○
If either steering stem bearing is damaged, it is recommended that both the upper and lower bearing (including outer races) should be replaced with new ones.
•
Remove the lower stem bearing inner race (tapered roller bearing) [A] with its grease seal from the stem using bearing pullers.
Special Tools - Bearing Puller: 57001-135
Bearing Puller: 57001-1575
○
Assemble the bearing puller (Special Tool: 57001-1575).
○
Insert the each half-split base [B] under the bottom of bearing inner race and connect the both bases by tightening the bolts [C] and nuts [D].
NOTE
○
Tighten evenly two bases by the two stud bolts.
○
Assemble the parts of the bearing puller (Special Tool:
57001-135).
Stud Bolts [E]
Arm [F]
Center Bolt [G]
Adapter [H]
○
Turn the center bolt by a wrench and pull the bearing inner race.
•
Replace the bearing outer races with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the outer races.
•
Drive the outer races into the head pipe at the same time with the special tools.
Special Tools - Head Pipe Outer Race Press Shaft [A]:
57001-1075
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 51.5 [B]:
57001-1076
Head Pipe Outer Race Driver, 54.5 [C]:
57001-1077
Steering
•
Replace the inner races with new ones.
•
Apply grease to the lower tapered roller bearing [A], and drive it onto the stem with the steering stem bearing driver
[B] and adapter [C].
Special Tools - Steering Stem Bearing Driver: 57001-137
Steering Stem Bearing Driver Adapter,
34.5: 57001-1074
•
Apply grease to the upper tapered roller bearing, and install it in the head pipe.
•
Install the stem through the head pipe and upper bearing, and hand-tighten the stem nut while pushing up the stem base.
•
Install the stem head and washer, and tighten the stem
• head nut lightly.
Settle the bearing in place as follows;
○
Tighten the stem nut to 39 N·m (4.0 kgf·m, 29 ft·lb) of torque (To tighten the steering stem nut to the specified torque, hook the wrench [A] on the stem nut, and pull the wrench at the hole by 22.2 kgf force [B] in the direction shown.).
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
○
Check that there is no play and the steering stem turns smoothly without rattles. If not, the steering stem bearings may be damaged.
○
Again back out the stem nut a fraction of a turn until it turns lightly.
○
Turn the stem nut lightly clockwise until it just becomes hard to turn. Do not overtighten, or the steering will be too tight.
Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 4.9 N·m (0.50 kgf·m, 43 in·lb)
•
Install the stem head.
•
Install the washer, and temporary tighten the stem head nut.
•
Install the front forks (see Front Fork Installation in the
Suspension chapter).
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the front fork clamp bolts (upper).
•
Tighten:
Torque - Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0
kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Steering Stem Head Nut: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 ft·lb)
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Lower): 22 N·m (2.2
kgf·m, 16 ft·lb)
NOTE
○
Tighten the fork clamp bolts (upper) first, next the stem head nut, last the fork clamp bolts (lower).
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
Steering
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Torque - Brake Hose Clamp Bolt: 3.0 N·m (0.31 kgf·m, 27 in·lb)
WARNING
If the handlebar does not turn to the steering stop it may cause an accident resulting in injury or death.
Be sure the cables, harnesses and hoses are routed properly and do not interfere with handlebar movement (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Check and Adjust:
Steering
Front Brake
Clutch Cable
Throttle Cable
•
Refer to the Steering Stem Bearing Lubrication in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, wash the upper and lower tapered rollers in the cages, and wipe the upper and lower outer races, which are press-fitted into the head pipe, clean off grease and dirt.
•
Visually check the outer race and the rollers.
Replace the bearing assembly if it show damage.
•
Whenever the steering stem is removed, or if the steering cannot be adjusted for smooth action, check the steering stem shaft [A] for straightness.
If the steering stem shaft is bent, replace the steering stem.
Handlebars
•
Remove:
Number Plate [A] (see Number Plate Removal in the
Frame chapter)
Handlebar Pad [B]
Fuel Tank Breather Hose [C]
•
Remove:
Clutch Lever Assembly [A]
Engine Stop Switch [B]
Band [C]
Left Handlebar Grip [D]
•
Remove:
Throttle Grip Assy [A] (see Throttle Cable Replacement in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
Front Master Cylinder [B] (see Front Master Cylinder Removal in the Brakes chapter)
•
Remove:
Handlebar Clamp Bolts [A]
Handlebar Clamps [B]
Handlebars [C]
•
Check the handlebars for bends or cracks.
If the handlebars was bended or cracked, replace it.
Handlebars
•
Apply adhesive cement to the innermost area of the left handlebar grip and all-around inner surface of the left handlebar grip hole entrance and also apply it to the roulette area on the handlebars.
•
The left handlebar grip must be installed with the triangle mark [A] upward.
○
When installing the left handlebar grip, rotate the grip more than once first, and then remove and install the grip alternately more than three times to spread adhesive cement. Make sure that adhesive cement has been spread evenly.
○
After installation, hold the left handlebar grip area at more than three points to make the left handlebar grip stick to the handlebars.
•
Install the clutch lever assembly (see Clutch Lever Installation in the Clutch chapter).
•
Install the engine stop switch.
•
Apply grease to the throttle cable upper end and clutch cable upper end.
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the edge (slash area) of the handlebars.
120 mm (4.72 in.) [A]
•
Install the throttle grip assembly so that the grip [A] is in as far as it will go.
○
Position the throttle grip assembly so that the cable gateway [B] of the throttle case is above the handlebars.
•
Install the front master cylinder (see Front Master Cylinder
Installation in the Brakes chapter).
•
Install the handlebars [A] on the steering stem head as follows.
○
The handlebars angle position can be adjusted to suit your preference using the gauge marks [B].
○
Position the handlebars so that the gauge marks is equal positions [C].
Bridge Bar [D]
•
Apply 2-stroke oil to the handlebar clamp bolts.
•
Install the handlebar clamps [E] and handlebar clamp bolts [F].
Handlebars
•
Tighten the handlebar clamp bolts [A].
○
Equalize the front and rear gaps [B].
NOTE
○
Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening torque.
Torque - Handlebar Clamp Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)
•
Install:
Handlebar Pad [A]
Fuel Tank Breather Hose [B]
Number Plate [C] (see Number Plate Installation in the
Frame chapter)
Table of Contents
15
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Footpeg Bracket Bolts (Upper)
2 Rear Frame Mounting Bolts
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
S: Follow the specified tightening sequence.
N·m
54
34
Torque kgf·m
5.5
3.5
ft·lb
40
25
Remarks
L
Frame
•
Refer to the Frame Inspection in the Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove:
Seat (see Seat Removal)
Side Covers (see Side Cover Removal)
Muffler Body (see Muffler Body Removal in the Engine
Top End chapter)
Rear Fender (see Rear Fender Removal)
Rear Flap (see Rear Flap Removal)
Upstream Injector Connector [A]
Fuel Hose [B] (see Fuel Hose Replacement in the Periodic Maintenance chapter)
•
Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor connector
[A].
•
Loosen the air cleaner duct clamp bolt [B].
•
Remove the rear frame mounting bolts [A] on both sides.
•
Take off the rear frame [B] together with the air cleaner housing.
○
Separate the air cleaner duct from the throttle body assy.
○
Take care not to damage the frame and rear shock absorber with the air cleaner duct clamp.
•
Fit the claw [A] of the clamp and the groove [B] of the air cleaner duct.
•
Install the rear frame.
○
Insert the duct onto the throttle body assy.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Rear Frame Mounting Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
•
Tighten the air cleaner duct clamp bolt.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
Frame
•
Remove the engine guards.
Right Engine Guard [A]
Left Engine Guard [B]
Lower Engine Guard [C]
Bolts [D]
Collars [E]
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
○
Fit the projection [A] of the right engine guard and hole [B] of the frame.
○
Fit the left engine guard similarly.
Seat
•
Remove the side cover bolt [A] on both sides.
•
Spread [A] the side covers lightly.
•
Take off the seat [B] backward [C].
•
Install the seat.
○
Insert the hooks [A] of the seat under the flange collar [B] and brackets [C].
○
Take care not to damage the side covers with the bracket of seat.
•
Tighten the side cover bolts.
Side Covers
•
Remove the bolts [A] and take off the side cover [B].
○
Clear the side cover tabs [C] from the air cleaner housing.
•
Stick the pad [A] on the inside of the right side cover.
•
Install the damper [B] securely.
•
Install the side covers.
○
Insert the tabs [A] of the side cover into the slots [B] of the air cleaner housing.
○
Insert the side cover rib [A] between the rear fender [B] and the rear frame [C].
•
Tighten the bolts.
Radiator Shroud
•
Remove:
Bolts [A]
Radiator Shroud [B]
○
Clear the radiator shroud tabs [C] from the air cleaner housing.
•
Install the radiator shrouds.
○
Insert the tabs [A] of the radiator shroud into the slots [B] of the air cleaner housing.
•
Temporarily install the bolts as shown sequence [1
∼
4].
L = 13 mm (0.51 in.) [1
∼
3]
L = 20 mm (0.79 in.) [4]
•
Tighten all bolts securely.
Number Plate
•
Unlock the band [A] of the number plate [B].
•
Remove the bolt [C].
•
Clear the projections [D] and remove the number plate.
•
Fit the holes [A] of the number plate and projections [B] of the steering stem base.
○
Run the brake hose through the front of the number plate.
•
Install the band to the handlebar pad, and tighten the bolt.
Fender
•
Remove the bolts [A] and take off the front fender [B].
•
Temporarily install the front bolts [A] first, and then the rear bolts [B].
•
Tighten all bolts securely.
•
Remove the side covers (see Side Cover Removal).
•
Remove the bolts [A].
•
Remove the bolt [A] on both sides, and take off the rear fender [B].
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
•
Remove the screws [A] and take off the rear flap [B].
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Footpegs
•
Remove:
Cotter Pin [A]
Washer [B]
Pivot Pin [C]
Spring [D]
Footpeg [E]
Footpeg Bracket Bolts [F]
Footpeg Bracket [G]
•
Replace the cotter pin with a new one.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the footpeg bracket bolts [A].
•
Install the footpeg bracket [B], and tighten the bolts.
Torque - Footpeg Bracket Bolt (Upper): 54 N·m (5.5 kgf·m,
40 ft·lb)
•
Apply grease to the pivot pin [C].
•
Install the footpeg [D], spring [E] and pivot pin.
○
Insert the pivot pin from upper side.
•
Install the washer [F] and new cotter pin [G].
•
Bend the longer side [A] of the cotter pin.
Table of Contents
16
Exploded View
Exploded View
No.
Fastener
1 Regulator/Rectifier Nuts
2 Spark Plug
3 Flywheel Nut Cap
4 Magneto Cover Bolts
5 Timing Inspection Cap
6 Flywheel Nut
7 Stator Coil Bolts
8 Crankshaft Sensor Bolts
9 Gear Position Switch Screws
G: Apply grease.
L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
R: Replacement Parts
Si: Apply silicone grease.
SS: Apply silicone sealant.
N·m
10
13
3.5
9.8
3.5
78.5
9.8
7.0
2.9
Torque kgf·m
1.02
1.3
0.36
1.0
0.36
8.00
1.0
0.71
0.30
ft·lb
89 in·lb
115 in·lb
31 in·lb
87 in·lb
31 in·lb
57.9
87 in·lb
62 in·lb
26 in·lb
Remarks
R
L
L
L
Specifications
Item Standard
Flywheel Magneto
Magneto Output Voltage
Stator Coil Resistance
37 V or more at 4 000 r/min (rpm)
0.4
∼
1.1
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Charging System
Charging Voltage (Regulator/Rectifier Output Voltage) 14.0
∼
14.5 V
Capacitor Internal Resistance see text
Ignition System
4° BTDC at 2 000 r/min (rpm) Ignition Timing
Ignition Coil:
3 Needle Arcing Distance
Primary Winding Resistance
Secondary Winding Resistance
Primary Peak Voltage
Crankshaft Sensor Resistance
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage
7 mm (0.28 in.) or more
0.28
∼
0.38
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
7.65
∼
10.4 k
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
150 V or more
180
∼
280
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
2.5 V or more
Spark Plug:
Type
Gap
NGK CPR8EB-9
0.8
∼
0.9 mm (0.031
∼
0.035 in.)
Special Tools and Sealant
Rotor Puller, M16/M18/M20/M22 × 1.5:
57001-1216
Needle Adapter Set:
57001-1457
Timing Light:
57001-1241
Hand Tester:
57001-1394
Peak Voltage Adapter:
57001-1415
Filler Cap Driver:
57001-1454
Flywheel Puller, M28 × 1.0:
57001-1471
Grip:
57001-1591
Measuring Adapter:
57001-1700
Rotor Holder:
57001-1730
Special Tools and Sealant
Liquid Gasket, TB1211F:
92104-0004
Wiring Diagram
This page intentionally left blank.
Wiring Diagram
Wiring Diagram
Precautions
There are numbers of important precautions that are musts when servicing electrical systems. Learn and observe all the rules below.
○
The electrical parts should never be struck sharply, as with a hammer, or allowed to fall on a hard surface. Such a shock to the parts can damage them.
○
To prevent damage to electrical parts, do not disconnect any electrical connections while the engine is running.
○
Troubles may involve one or in some cases all items.
Never replace a defective part without determining what
CAUSED the failure. If the failure was caused by some other item or items, they too must be repaired or replaced, or the new replacement will soon fail again.
○
Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight, and examine leads for signs of burning, fraying, etc. Poor leads and bad connections will affect electrical system operation.
○
Measure coil and winding resistance when the part is cold
(at room temperature).
Electrical Wiring
•
Visually inspect the wiring for signs of burning, fraying, etc.
If any wiring is poor, replace the damaged wiring.
•
Pull each connector [A] apart and inspect it for corrosion, dirt, and damage.
If the connector is corroded or dirty, clean it carefully. If it
• is damaged, replace it.
Check the wiring for continuity.
○
Use the wiring diagram to find the ends of the lead which is suspected of being a problem.
○
Connect the hand tester between the ends of the leads.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Set the tester to the × 1
Ω range, and read the tester.
If the tester does not read 0
Ω
, the lead is defective. Replace the lead or the wiring harness if necessary.
Flywheel Magneto
•
Drain the engine oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance chapter).
•
Remove:
Left Radiator Shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter)
Shift Pedal (see Shift Pedal Removal in the Crankshaft/Transmission chapter)
•
Disconnect the magneto lead connector [A] from the main harness.
•
Open the clamps [A] then free the magneto lead [B].
•
Remove:
Bolt [C] and Engine Guard [D]
Magneto Cover Bolts [E]
Magneto Cover [F]
•
Replace the gasket [A] with a new one and install the new gasket.
•
Be sure to install the dowel pins [B].
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the silicone sealant coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply silicone sealant to the area [A] to the magneto lead grommet.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211F: 92104-0004
•
Tighten:
L = 35 mm (1.4 in.) [A]
L = 30 mm (1.2 in.) [B]
Torque - Magneto Cover Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Hold the magneto lead and gear position switch lead with the clamps [C] according to the Cable, Wire, and Hose
Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Connect the magneto lead connector.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
•
Remove the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Removal).
Flywheel Magneto
•
Hold the flywheel steady with the rotor holder [A], and remove the flywheel nut [B].
Special Tools - Grip [C]: 57001-1591
Rotor Holder: 57001-1730
•
Install the flywheel puller [A] to the flywheel.
•
Install the rotor puller [B] to the flywheel puller.
•
Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft by turning in the rotor puller and tapping the head of the puller lightly with a hammer, while holding the puller body steady. There is a woodruff key in the crankshaft tapered portion.
Special Tools - Rotor Puller, M16/M18/M20/M22 × 1.5: 57001
-1216
Flywheel Puller, M28 × 1.0: 57001-1471
NOTICE
Never strike the grab bar or the flywheel itself. Striking the bar can bond it. If the flywheel is struck, the magnets may lose their magnetism.
•
Remove the woodruff key.
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the crankshaft taper [A] and in the hole
[B] of the flywheel. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Fit the woodruff key [C] securely in the slot of the crankshaft.
•
Install the flywheel according to the following procedures.
NOTE
○
Confirm the flywheel fit or not to the crankshaft before tightening it with specified torque.
○
Install the flywheel.
○
Hold the flywheel steady with the rotor holder, and tighten the flywheel nut with 54 N·m (5.5 kgf·m, 40 ft·lb) of torque.
Special Tools - Grip: 57001-1591
Rotor Holder: 57001-1730
○
Remove the flywheel nut.
○
Check the tightening torque with rotor puller.
Special Tool - Flywheel Puller, M28 × 1.0: 57001-1471
If the flywheel is not pulled out with 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb) of drawing torque, it is installed correctly.
If the flywheel is pulled out with under 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m,
15 ft·lb) of drawing torque, clean off any oil dirt or flaw of the crankshaft and flywheel tapered portion, and dry them with a clean cloth. Then, confirm that it is not pulled out with above torque.
Flywheel Magneto
•
Hold the flywheel steady with the rotor holder, and tighten the flywheel nut.
Special Tools - Grip: 57001-1591
Rotor Holder: 57001-1730
Torque - Flywheel Nut: 78.5 N·m (8.00 kgf·m, 57.9 ft·lb)
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation).
•
Remove:
Magneto Cover (see Magneto Cover Removal)
Stator Coil Bolts [A]
Crankshaft Sensor Bolts [B]
Holder [C]
Magneto Lead Grommet [D]
•
Remove the stator coil [E] and crankshaft sensor [F] as a set.
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the stator coil bolts.
•
Install the stator coil and crankshaft sensor as a set.
•
Tighten:
Torque - Stator Coil Bolts: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the crankshaft sensor bolts.
•
Install the holder [A] and tighten the crankshaft sensor bolts.
○
Hold the magneto lead with the guide [B] of the holder.
Torque - Crankshaft Sensor Bolts: 7.0 N·m (0.71 kgf·m, 62 in·lb)
•
Using a high flash-point solvent, clean off any oil or dirt that may be on the silicone sealant coating area. Dry them with a clean cloth.
•
Apply silicone sealant to the circumference of the magneto lead grommet [C], and fit the grommet into the notch
[D] of the cover securely.
Sealant - Liquid Gasket, TB1211F: 92104-0004
•
Install the magneto cover (see Magneto Cover Installation).
Flywheel Magneto
There are three types of magneto problems: short, open
(lead burned out), or loss in flywheel magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil leads will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in flywheel magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the flywheel by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output.
NOTE
○
Be sure the prepared battery is fully charged.
•
Check the magneto output voltage, do the following procedures.
○
Remove the left radiator shroud (see Radiator Shroud Removal in the Frame chapter).
○
Disconnect the magneto lead connector (see Magneto
Cover Removal).
○
Use the engine revolution tester [A] for high accuracy.
○
Connect the measuring adapter [B] between the disconnected connectors.
○
Connect the hand tester [C] to the magneto lead connector.
Main Harness [D]
Flywheel [E]
Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
Measuring Adapter: 57001-1700
○
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
○
Start the engine.
○
Run it at the rpm given in the table 1.
○
Note the voltage readings (total 3 measurements).
Table 1 Magneto Output Voltage at 4 000 r/min (rpm)
Tester
Range
AC 250 V
Connections
Tester (+) to Tester (–) to
One yellow lead
Another yellow lead
Reading
37 V or more
If the output voltage shows the value in the table, the magneto operates properly.
If the output voltage shows a much lower reading than that
• given in the table indicates that the magneto is defective.
To check the stator coil resistance as follows.
○
Stop the engine.
○
Connect the hand tester as shown in the table 2.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
○
Note the resistance readings (total 3 measurements).
Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance
Tester
Range
× 1
Ω
Connections
Tester (+) to
One yellow lead
Tester (–) to
Another yellow lead
at 20°C (68°F)
Reading
0.4
∼
1.1
Ω
Flywheel Magneto
If there is more resistance than shown in the table, or no hand tester reading (infinity), the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be replaced.
•
Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester, measure the resistance between each leads and chassis ground.
Any hand tester reading less than infinity (
∞
) indicates a short, necessitating stator replacement.
If the stator coil has normal resistance, but the voltage check showed the magneto to be defective; then the flywheel have probably weakened, and the flywheel must be replaced.
Charging System
•
Remove:
Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System
(DFI) chapter)
•
Open the clamp [A], and free the lead.
•
Slide the dust cover [B].
•
Disconnect the regulator/rectifier lead connector [C].
•
Remove:
Regulator/Rectifier Nuts [A]
Regulator/Rectifier [B]
•
Replace the regulator/rectifier nuts with new ones.
•
Install the regulator/rectifier and tighten the nuts.
Torque - Regulator/Rectifier Nuts: 10 N·m (1.02 kgf·m, 89 in·lb)
•
Run the regulator/rectifier lead according to the Cable,
Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter.
•
Connect the regulator/rectifier lead connector.
•
Cover the lead connector with dust cover.
•
Install the removed parts (see appropriate chapters).
NOTE
○
Be sure the prepared battery is fully charged.
Charging System
○
Refer to the Self-diagnosis Procedures in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter, connect the 12 V battery to the main harness.
•
Connect the hand tester [A] to the battery terminals [B].
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
•
Start the engine, and note the voltage readings at various engine speeds. But they must be kept the specified voltage.
Charging Voltage
Connections
Tester Range Reading
Tester (+) to Tester (–) to
DC 25 V Battery (+) Battery (–) 14.0
∼
14.5 V
•
Stop the engine.
If the charging voltage is kept between the values given in the table, the charging system is considered to be working normally.
If the charging voltage is much higher than the values specified in the table, the regulator/rectifier is defective or the regulator/rectifier leads are loose or open.
If the charging voltage does not rise as the engine speed increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the magneto output is insufficient for the loads. Check the magneto and regulator/rectifier to determine which part is defective.
•
Remove:
Regulator/Rectifier (see Regulator/Rectifier Removal)
•
Set the hand tester to the × 1 k
Ω range and make the measurements shown in the table.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
•
Connect the hand tester to the regulator/rectifier.
If the tester readings are not as specified, replace the regulator/rectifier.
NOTICE
Use only Kawasaki Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. A tester other than the Kawasaki Hand Tester may show different readings.
If a megger or a meter with a large capacity battery is used, the regulator/rectifier will be damaged.
Charging System
Regulator/Rectifier Resistance
(–)*
Terminal
A
B
C
D
E
(Unit: k
Ω
)
A
–
6
∼
20
4
∼
12
4
∼
12
4
∼
12
Tester (+) Lead Connection
B
∞
–
∞
∞
∞
C
D
∞ ∞ ∞
4
∼
12 4
∼
12 4
∼
12
–
∞ ∞
∞
∞
–
∞
E
∞
–
(−)*: Tester (−) Lead Connection
•
Install the regulator/rectifier (see Regulator/Rectifier Installation).
•
Disconnect the connector [A].
•
Remove the bolts [B].
•
Remove the capacitor [C] from the bracket.
•
Installation is the reverse of removal.
○
Run the lead correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
Charging System
•
Remove:
Capacitor (see Capacitor Removal)
•
Set the hand tester to the × 1 k
Ω range, connect the tester to the leads of the capacitor, and check the internal resistance the following table.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
NOTICE
Use only Kawasaki Hand Tester 57001-1394 for this test. A tester other than the Kawasaki Hand Tester may show different readings.
If the readings do not correspond to the table, replace the capacitor unit.
Capacitor Internal Resistance
Tester
Negative
(–) Lead
Connection
Color
O
BK/W
Tester Positive (+) Lead Connection
O BK/W more than 5 k
Ω
—
*1
Should not be inspected
—
*2
*1: Check the capacitor after 2 minutes.
*2: Do not check the resistance because of opposite of the polarity.
Capacitor Capacity
10 000 F/50 V
Ignition Timing
•
Remove the timing inspection cap [A].
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
•
Attach the timing light [A] to the ignition coil lead in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer.
Special Tool - Timing Light: 57001-1241
•
Start the engine and aim the timing light at the TDC mark
[B] on the flywheel.
•
Run the engine at the speeds specified and note the alignment of the TDC mark.
○
Check the engine speed, using the engine revolution tester [A] for high accuracy.
Ignition Timing
Engine speed [r/min (rpm)]
2 000
Hole groove aligns with:
Line mark on flywheel
If the ignition timing is incorrect, check the crankshaft sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection).
If the crankshaft sensor is normal, replace the ECU.
•
Replace the timing inspection cap O-ring with a new one, and apply grease it.
•
Tighten:
Special Tool - Filler Cap Driver: 57001-1454
Torque - Timing Inspection Cap: 3.5 N·m (0.36 kgf·m, 31 in·lb)
Ignition System
WARNING
The ignition system produces extremely high voltage. Do not touch the spark plug, ignition coil or ignition coil lead while the engine is running, or you could receive a severe electrical shock.
•
Disconnect the primary lead connector [A].
•
Pull off the spark plug cap [B].
•
Remove the ignition coil bracket bolt [C] and ignition coil with bracket.
•
Remove the mounting bolts and nuts [A], and separate the ignition coil [B] and its bracket [C].
•
Assemble the ignition coil and its bracket, and tighten the bolts and nuts.
•
Install the spark plug cap [A].
Front Side [B]
○
Insert the spark plug cap to the cylinder head cover until the flange of the cap contacts the cover.
•
Run the leads correctly (see Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing section in the Appendix chapter).
•
Install:
Ignition Coil [A] with Bracket
Frame Ground Lead (Inside) and Ignition Coil Ground
Lead (Outside) [B]
Ignition Coil Bracket Bolt
○
Turn the clamp side of the ignition coil ground lead terminal and frame ground lead terminal outside.
•
Connect the primary lead connector.
•
Pull up the spark plug cap lightly to make sure of the installation of the spark plug cap.
Ignition System
Measuring Arcing Distance
The most accurate test for determining the condition of the ignition coil is made by measuring arcing distance using the coil tester for the 3-needle method.
•
Remove the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Removal).
•
Measure the arcing distance using the coil tester [A].
•
Connect the ignition coil (with the spark plug cap left installed on the spark plug lead) [B] to the tester and measure the arcing distance.
WARNING
To avoid extremely high voltage shocks, do not touch the coil or lead.
If the distance reading is less than the specified value, the ignition coil or spark plug cap is defective.
3 Needle Arcing Distance
Standard: 7 mm (0.28 in.) or more
•
To determine which part is defective, measure the arcing distance again with the spark plug cap removed from the spark plug lead.
If the arcing distance is subnormal as before, the trouble is with the ignition coil itself. If the arcing distance is now normal, the trouble is with the spark plug cap.
Measuring Coil Resistance
If the arcing tester is not available, the coil can be checked for a broken or badly shorted winding with the hand tester.
However, the hand tester cannot detect layer shorts and shorts resulting from insulation breakdown under high voltage.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
•
•
Remove the ignition coil (see Ignition Coil Removal).
Measure the primary winding resistance [A] as follows.
○
Connect the hand tester between the coil terminals.
○
Set the tester to the × 1
Ω range, and read the tester.
•
Measure the secondary winding resistance [B] as follows.
○
Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug lead.
○
Connect the hand tester between the spark plug lead and the ground lead terminal.
○
Set the tester to the × 1 k
Ω range, and read the tester.
Ignition Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 0.28
∼
0.38
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Secondary Windings: 7.65
∼
10.4 k
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
If the tester does not read as specified, replace the ignition coil.
If the tester reads as specified, the ignition coil windings are probably good. However, if the ignition system still does not perform as it should after all other components have been checked, test replace the coil with one known to be good.
•
Check the spark plug lead for visible damage.
If the spark plug lead is damaged, replace the ignition coil.
Ignition System
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Refer to the Spark Plug Cleaning and Inspection in the
Periodic Maintenance chapter.
•
Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug, but do not remove the spark plug.
•
Install the good spark plug [A] to the spark plug cap, then touch the frame with it.
NOTE
○
Measure the voltage with each lead connected correctly.
The correct value may not be obtained if disconnected.
○
Maintain the correct value of compression pressure for the cylinder (Be sure to measure the voltage with the spark plug installed to the cylinder head.).
•
Connect the peak voltage adapter [B] to the hand tester.
Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415
Type: KEK-54-9-B
Needle Adapter Set: 57001-1457
Hand Tester Range: DC 250 V
•
Connect the peak voltage adapter to the ignition coil terminal and ground.
Connections:
Ground [C]
Terminal (O
Lead) [D]
←
←
Ignition Coil [E]
ECU [F]
Needle Adapter [G]
Peak Voltage
Adapter
R lead
BK lead
→
→
Hand
Tester
(+)
(–)
•
Shift the gear to the neutral position.
•
Crank the engine by kicking the pedal several times to measure the peak voltage of the ignition coil.
Ignition Coil Primary Peak Voltage
Standard: 150 V or more
WARNING
Electrical equipment can cause serious electrical shock. To avoid being shocked, do not touch the metal portion of the probe when measuring voltage.
If the voltage is less than the specified value, see the
Troubleshooting on next page.
Ignition System
○
The IC igniter is built in the ECU.
•
Refer to the following items.
Ignition System Troubleshooting (see Ignition System section)
ECU Power Supply Inspection (see ECU Power Supply
Inspection in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter)
Ignition System
Ignition System
•
Disconnect the magneto lead connector (see Magneto
Cover Removal).
NOTE
○
Measure the voltage with each lead connected correctly.
The correct value may not be obtained if disconnected.
○
Maintain the correct value of compression pressure for the cylinder (Be sure to measure the voltage with the spark plug installed to the cylinder head.).
WARNING
Electrical equipment can cause serious electrical shock. To avoid being shocked, do not touch the metal portion of the probe when measuring voltage.
•
Set the hand tester to DC 25 V range, and connect it to the peak voltage adapter [A].
Special Tools - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
Peak Voltage Adapter: 57001-1415
Type: KEK-54-9-B
•
Connect the adapter to the terminals of the magneto lead connector [B].
Connections:
Magneto Lead
Connector
Peak Voltage
Adapter
Hand Tester
G/W lead [C]
←
R lead
→
(+)
W/Y lead [D]
←
BK lead
→
(–)
•
Shift the gear to the neutral position.
•
Crank the engine by kicking the pedal several times to measure the peak voltage of the crankshaft sensor.
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage
Standard: 2.5 V or more
If the voltage is less than the specified, check the crankshaft sensor (see Crankshaft Sensor Inspection).
Ignition System
•
Disconnect the magneto lead connector (see Magneto
Cover Removal).
•
Set the hand tester [A] to the × 10
Ω range and connect it to the Green/White [B] and White/Yellow [C] leads in the connector.
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
Crankshaft Sensor Resistance
Standard: 180
∼
280
Ω at 20°C (68°F)
If there is more resistance than the specified value, the coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the coil is shorted, and must be replaced.
•
Using the highest resistance range of the tester, measure the resistance between the crankshaft sensor leads and chassis ground.
Any tester reading less than infinity (
∞
) indicates a short, necessities replacement of the crankshaft sensor assembly.
•
Start the engine.
•
Push the engine stop switch [A], stop the engine.
If the engine does not stop, check the engine stop switch for continuity (see Engine Stop Switch Inspection).
If the engine stop switch is good, check the wiring (see
Wiring Inspection).
If the wiring is good, replace the ECU.
White Connector [A] (for Soft Track Condition)
Green Connector [B] (for Standard)
Black Connector [C] (for Hard Track Condition)
Ignition System
•
Check the wiring for continuity between the terminals of each connector referring the connector circuit.
White Connector [A]
Green Connector [B]
Black Connector [C]
Special Tool - Hand Tester [D]: 57001-1394
If the tester does not read 0
Ω
, the connector is defective.
Replace the connector with a new one.
Switches
•
Using the hand tester, check to see that the connections shown in the table have continuity (about zero ohms).
Special Tool - Hand Tester: 57001-1394
If the switch has an open or short, replace it with a new one.
Engine Stop Switch Connection
•
Refer to the Gear Position Switch Removal in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter.
•
Refer to the Gear Position Switch Installation in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter.
•
Refer to the Gear Position Switch Inspection in the Fuel
System (DFI) chapter.
Table of Contents
17
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Front Brake Hose
2. Run the throttle cables inside of the number plate.
3. Throttle Cable (Accelerator)
4. Throttle Cable (Decelerator)
5. Clutch Cable
6. Run the clutch cable inside of the number plate.
7. Run the front brake hose outside of the number plate.
8. Band (Hold the engine stop switch lead.)
9. Engine Stop Switch Lead
10. Run the engine stop switch lead and clutch cable into the guide.
11. Run the throttle cables into the guide.
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Clutch Cable
2. Engine Stop Switch Lead
3. Main Harness
4. Run the clutch cable outside of the main harness.
5. Clamps (Firmly twist the clamp from near bolted point around the clutch cable.)
6. Throttle Cables
7. Run the throttle cables between the joint hose and radiator overflow hose.
8. Run the regulator/rectifier lead as shown.
9. Put the regulator/rectifier lead connector on the top position.
10. Run the throttle cables over the main harness.
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Engine Stop Switch Lead
2. Clamp (Hold the main harness and engine stop switch lead on the main harness at the white taped position.)
3. Position the engine stop switch lead connector behind the clamp and between the main harness and frame.
4. Run the capacitor lead to the right side of the capacitor.
5. Joint Hose
6. Main Harness
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Clamp (Turn the lock position to upward.)
2. Clamp (Turn the lock position to upward.)
3. Run the main harness and option lead over the capacitor lead.
4. Run the regulator/rectifier lead as shown.
5. Run the regulator/rectifier lead on the top position in the clamp.
6. Run the ignition coil primary lead outside of the clamp.
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Breather Hose
2. Downstream Lead
3. Throttle Sensor Lead
4. Install the upstream injector connector boot so that notch side faces inside.
5. Run the downstream lead and throttle sensor lead over the throttle body assy rear side.
6. Fuel Hose
7. Check the fuel hose position. If the fuel hose interferes with the cylinder head cover, move the fuel hose upward.
8. Run the fuel pump lead over the fuel hose.
9. Run the throttle sensor lead to the front side of the throttle body assy.
10. Clamp (Hold the main harness. Turn the lock position to backward.)
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Clamp (Twist the clamp on the magneto lead and gear position switch lead at the gray taped position.)
2. Clamp (Twist the clamp on the magneto lead and gear position switch lead.)
3. Run the gear position switch lead inside of the gasket.
4. Do not pinch the gear position switch lead.
5. Insert the gear position switch lead into the groove of the crankcase.
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Viewed Rear
2. Radiator Overflow Hose
3. Clamps
4. Joint Hose (Turn the blue paint to upside.)
5. Clamps (Turn the screw head to outside.)
6. Right Radiator
7. Water Pipe
8. Run the radiator overflow hose in the front of the water hose and between the engine brackets.
9. Capacitor (Position the lead downward.)
10. Run the radiator overflow hose in the left of the frame pipe, and in the front of the water hose.
11. Left Radiator
12. Viewed A
13. 45°
14. Viewed B
15. Bottom Engine Guard
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Install the mesh protector side of the breather hose to the engine.
2. Clamp (Turn the claw to the exhaust pipe side.)
3. Clamp (Run the breather hose into the clamp.)
4. Breather Hose
5. Align the green paint to the stopper.
6. Stoppers
7. Align the red paint to the stopper.
8. Clamps (Turn the screw head to front.)
9. Clamps (Turn the screw head to exhaust pipe side.)
10. Joint Pipe
11. Clamp (Turn the screw head to outside.)
12. Turn the green paint to outside.
13. Viewed A
14. Insert the water hose to the pipe up to the clamp screw.
15. Clamp (Turn the screw head to front.)
16. Turn the green paint to front.
17. Water Pipe
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Touch the front brake hose fitting to the stopper.
2. Brake Hose
3. Clamp
4. Viewed A
5. Clamps
Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing
1. Brake Hose
2. Clamps
3. Touch the rear brake hose fitting to the stopper.
4. Cotter Pin
5. Viewed A
Troubleshooting Guide
NOTE
○
Refer to the Fuel System (DFI) chapter for most of DFI trouble shooting guide.
○
This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.
Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting
Difficulty:
Engine won’t turn over:
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end, big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Kick shaft return spring broken
Kick ratchet gear not engaging
No fuel flow:
No fuel in fuel tank
Fuel tank cap air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel filter clogged
Engine flooded:
Clean spark plug and adjust plug gap
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, do not crank the engine with the throttle fully opened. This promotes engine flood because more fuel is supplied automatically by DFI.)
No spark; spark weak:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or spark plug lead trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Engine stop switch shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Flywheel damage
Compression Low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, deformed, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Decompression trouble
Poor Running at Low Speed:
Spark weak:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or spark plug lead trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Flywheel damaged
Ignition coil trouble
Wiring connector not in good contact
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel pump trouble
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, deformed, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Decompression trouble
Other:
ECU trouble
Engine oil level to high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Brake dragging
Drive train trouble
Engine overheating
Clutch slipping
Poor Running or No Power at High
Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted
Spark plug cap or spark plug lead trouble
Troubleshooting Guide
Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect heat value
ECU trouble
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Flywheel damage
Ignition coil trouble
Wiring connector not in good contact
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct loose
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Throttle body assy holder loose
Fuel to injector insufficient
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel line clogged
Fuel pump trouble
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, deformed, worn, carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Decompression trouble
Knocking:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect heat valve
ECU trouble
Other:
Throttle valve won’t fully open
Brake dragging
Air cleaner clogged
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Clutch slipping
Overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Drive train trouble
Crankshaft bearing worn or damage
Engine Overheating:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect
ECU trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Throttle body assy holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high:
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty:
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Brake dragging
Drive train trouble
Lubrication inadequate:
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Coolant incorrect:
Coolant level too low
Coolant deteriorated
Cooling system component incorrect:
Radiator clogged
Radiator cap trouble
Water pump not rotating
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
No clutch lever play
Clutch cable maladjusted
Clutch inner cable sticking
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release function trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing seized
Clutch release function trouble
Clutch hub nut loose
Clutch plate warped or rough
Clutch hub spline damaged
Gear Shifting Faulty:
Doesn’t go into gear; shift pedal doesn’t return:
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent, worn, or seized
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift shaft lever broken
Pawl guide plate broken
Shift pawl broken
Shift pawl spring tension lose
Troubleshooting Guide
Gear seized
Gear positioning lever operation trouble
Shift drum broken
Jumps out of gear:
Shift fork ear worn, bent
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn
Shift drum groove worn
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Shift fork guide pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts:
Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken
Pawl guide plate worn
Abnormal Engine Noise:
Knocking:
ECU trouble
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect heat value
Overheating
Piston slap:
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston pin hole worn
Valve noise:
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing or cam face worn
Valve lifter worn
Other noise:
Connecting rod big end, small end clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounts loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, chain guide worn
Primary gear worn or damaged
Decompressor spring broken
Magneto flywheel loose
Abnormal Drive Train Noise:
Clutch noise:
Clutch housing finger and friction plate tang worn
Clutch housing gear worn
Metal chips jammed in clutch housing gear teeth
Transmission noise:
Bearings worn
Transmission gears worn or chipped
Metal chips jammed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient, low viscosity
Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from kick gear
Kick shaft idle gear worn or chipped
Drive chain noise:
Drive chain maladjusted
Drive chain worn
Rear and/or engine sprocket worn
Drive chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise:
Front fork noise:
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Front fork air pressure high
Rear shock absorber noise:
Shock absorber trouble
Spring weak or broken
Disc brake noise:
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper trouble
Pad installed incorrectly
Master cylinder damaged
Other noise:
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc., not properly mounted or tightened
Abnormal Exhaust Color:
White smoke:
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high
Black smoke:
Air cleaner element clogged
Brown smoke:
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner clogged
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Handling and/or Stability
Unsatisfactory:
Handlebars hard to turn:
Cable, hose, wire routing incorrect
Steering stem nut too tight
Steering stem bearing damaged
Troubleshooting Guide
Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebars shakes or excessively vibrates:
Tire worn
Swingarm pivot bearings worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Spokes loose
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar clamp bolt loose
Steering stem head nut loose
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Handlebars pulls to one side:
Frame bent
Rear wheel misalignment
Swingarm bent or twisted
Swingarm pivot shaft bent
Steering maladjusted
Steering stem bent
Front fork bent
Suspension operation trouble:
(Too hard)
Tire air pressure too high
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard
Front fork bent
Front fork air pressure too high
(Too soft)
Front fork oil insufficient or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Rear shock absorber adjusted too soft
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil or gas leaking
Tire air pressure too low
Brake Doesn’t Hold:
Air in brake system
Pad, disc worn
Brake fluid leakage
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Brake master cylinder cups damaged
Master cylinder scratched inside
Disc warped
Year
2013
Model
KX250ZD
Beginning Frame No.
JKAKXMZC
□
DA000001
JKAKX250ZZA000001
□
:This digit in the frame number changes from one machine to another.
Part No.99924-1459-01
Printed in Japan
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Liquid-cooled, four-stroke engine
Single-cylinder engine
43mm Keihin fuel injection system
Upside-down telescopic fork
Uni-Trak rear suspension
Designed for high-performance off-road riding
The KX250F has a liquid-cooled, four-stroke, single-cylinder engine.
It uses a 43mm Keihin fuel injection system.
It has an upside-down telescopic fork in the front and a Uni-Trak rear suspension.
What specific instructions apply when handling or replacing needle bearings?
Needle bearings should only be removed if absolutely necessary and must be replaced with new ones. When pressing new bearings into place, ensure the manufacturer and size marks face outwards. It is crucial to apply pressure only to the correct bearing race to prevent damage.
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