WBA ultRA Kit RG

i ns tA l l At i on m Anu Al

IMPORTANT! A Radio “Re-Flash” May be Required.

Please Read Manual For More Information

Thank you for your purchase of Wild Boar Audio’s WBA Ultra Kit RG for

2015+ Road Glide Ultras. We want your new kit to work as well as it was designed to, so if you have any questions or concerns, please email: [email protected] or call us during regular business hours at 705-719-6361

(EST). If you still need help, please consider a professional installation by your dealer.

Important radIo reflash InformatIon :

From a sonic point of view, Road Glide Ultra has the correct flash, however, the factory flash in Road Glide Ultra makes the radio play considerably QUIETER than it could. Less signal out from the radio means less signal going into the amps. If you install this system without a reflash, it will sound great, but will NOT reach its potential volume. A radio reflash by a Techno Research dealer is required to make this system play to its full volume potential. An OEM Dealer reflash will not “fix” this, as the OEM flash looks at the bikes VIN and will re-install the same “quiet” flash. To find a

Techno Research dealer near you, please visit: http://technoresearch.com/index.php/tuning-centers or CALL US!

this manual is written in 4 sections: section 1: Front Speaker Installation section 2: Rear Speaker Installation section 3: Amplifier Installation section 4: Final System Adjustments

please read the notes on the next page before proceeding with the installation

Wild Boar Audio Contact Information

Email: [email protected]

Tel: 705-719-6361

beFORe geTTINg sTARTed

The amp in this kit (WBA 600.4) is rated to produce 150 watts x 4 using the supplied 4 ohm Wild Boar speakers. The WBA 600.4 should be used with 4 Ω

(ohm) speakers only!

The WBA 600.4 amplifier is a Class D design. It should be understood that ALL Class D amplifiers, regArDLess of BrAnD, cause a reduction in fM reception. The WBA 600.4 features a proprietary circuit design called r.e.M.I.T. (reduced electro Magnetic Interference

Technology) that Wild Boar Audio believes gives the BesT fM reception available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle.

If you add additional amplifiers to your system, reduction of fM reception is increased and is considered normal.

Wild Boar Audio understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics of in fairing antennas, however it should be noted that noTHIng works as well as the factory antenna. If fM is an important part of your riding experience, we strongly advise against the use of any in fairing type antenna!

The amplifier has built in protection and will turn itself off if your charging system/ battery goes below 10.5 volts.

In very high heat situations, the 600.4 will shut itself off before it damages itself.

Once cooled down to safe operating temperatures, it will turn itself back on.

This manual is written as if your bike has had no previous amplifiers installed.

geTTINg sTARTed

Remove the bike’s seat, and undo the main (+ and -) connectors from the battery.

Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside. Refer to a service manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a towel on the front fender can help prevent scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners, etc.

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section 1

fR ont s pe A KeR ins tAllAti on

Step #1: Grill trim ring selection:

In the box, you will see that the metal mesh grill with tweeter in it is sitting in the black trim ring. If you turn this over, you will see “tabs” in the metal mesh used to secure the mesh to the black trim ring have not been folded over. These were left unfolded in case you want to remove the mesh, and have your black trim rings customized, or if you want to place the metal mesh in the chrome trim rings that also came in the box.

No matter which trim rings you choose, the metal mesh grill with tweeter must be properly “seated” in the trim ring and all 6 metal mesh “tabs” must be folded over before proceeding.

Step #2: removing the factory Grills:

Each factory grill will be removed from the inner fairing by prying up on them. Start with your fingers, but if you must use a tool, please use something with a 90° end being extra careful not to scratch your inner fairing...especially if it’s painted! On the back of each grill, there is a rubber gasket and 2 white clips which will be removed from the factory grills and re-installed on the Wild Boar Audio grills.

NOTE: The factory clips must be removed carefully!

Using your thumbnails or a flat edge under each side, gently pry the 2 ends apart (as per the image) and pull up to release each clip from the stock grill. If you put a flat edge under one end only, the clip cannot release and you have a very good chance of breaking the clip.

Step #4: removing the factory speakers:

With the grills off the bike remove the 4 screws that secure the factory speaker to bike. Gently pull up each factory speaker so it’s coming away from the bike and carefully remove the speaker wires. Put the factory speakers aside.

Step #5: Installing the Wild Boar audio WBC 1654 rG speaker:

Take a Wild Boar Audio woofer and attach the factory speaker wires noting they will only go on one way. The #1 reason for tech related calls is loose wires at the speaker which is why we designed the self-locking clips on the speaker frame. You will need to “maneuver” the new woofer into place so it will go past the grill opening on the inner fairing, noting it will go in without force. In order to make the

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speaker install properly, the speaker wires must be oriented so they are closest to the top of the inner fairing (12 o’clock position).

When installed correctly, the 2 small wires that go from the back of the speaker and “through” the speakers ring will also be in the 12 o’clock position. Reinstall the factory screws to secure the woofers in place making sure the speaker is flush to the mounting plane of the factory speaker cabinet.

Step #6: Installing the Wild Boar audio speaker Grills:

Before proceeding, please MAKE SURE all 6 metal mesh tabs on the speaker grills have been folded over to properly secure the grill mesh to the trim ring! There is a small 2 wire plug for the tweeter on each grill that will get plugged into the mating connector on the wire coming through front of the speakers ring. When these are plugged together, there will be an extra length of wire. In the kit there are foam strips that are “peel and stick”. You can use the peel and stick foam that came with the kit to secure the extra length of wire on top of the factory speaker cabinet. The goal is to make sure this extra length of wire does not fall in front of the woofer and rattle against the woofer as it’s playing. With the extra wire out of the way, the new grill will press into the inner fairing and “click” into its final position.

section 2

R e A R s p e A K eR in s tAllA tion

Step #1: factory speaker removal

Looking at the factory rear speaker, you will see it is secured to the rear speaker “pod” by 4 T-10 “torx” head screws. Remove these 4 screws.

Lift the speaker out of the rear “pod” and carefully remove each speaker wire from the speaker. Repeat this for the other side.

Step #2: Installing the new speakers

Take one rear speaker and carefully attach the factory speaker wires noting they will only go on one way. In order for the rear speakers to fit in the factory “pods” they must be aligned correctly. If installing on the brake side “pod” the speaker connectors must be in the“3 o’clock” position. On the clutch side, the speaker connectors must be in the “9 o’clock” position. With the speaker in the pod, take one of the plastic grill trim rings and sit it on the speaker. Using the 4 factory torx screws, secure the speaker/grill ring to the “pod”. There is no reason to over tighten these screws! Repeat for the other side of the bike and you are done!

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section 3

A m pl i f i e R i nst AllA tio n

As the amplifiers come in the box, they are “stuck” to a mounting plate for use in

FLH (Batwing) model bikes. “Peel” the amps off the plate and put that plate aside as it’s not required for FLTR (Road Glide) installations.

As stated in the “Important Notes” at the beginning of this manual, the required radio flash is called “4 speaker no amp” and is required for your system to work properly. The 4 speaker no amp flash is what comes from the factory on all non

CVO model Ultras. Please refer to these important notes or CONTACT US if you have questions!

The image below will be one you can reference throughout the installation. Please take a minute and familiarize yourself with the items listed below in the image.

C D

A

B

Figure 1.1

a = Mounting points for Headlight assembly

B = Wire passage from fairing to bike

C = Brake side speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires) d = Clutch Side Speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)

Important note Before proCeedInG

Power wires and wires for rear speakers will travel from inner fairing area towards the back of the bike. You can run wires in the factory wire “chase” which is under the fuel tank along the frame, or up and over fuel tank, but under the chrome console. If you are comfortable removing and re-installing your bike’s fuel tank, doing it now can make running the wires much easier.

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Step #1: Locate the “splitter” power harness included in this kit. You will see one end that has “ring terminals”, and the other end that “splits” and has

2 power connectors on it. Using Fig 1.1 on page 5 for reference, run the “ring terminal end” of the power harness through “B”. Position it so the 2 power connectors on the “split end” are accessible in the inner fairing and the slack can be adjusted later in the installation. Just in front of the tank, there is a structure that attaches the fairing to the frame of the bike. The power harness will pass through this structure and exit through the rectangular opening where the factory harness also exits the structure on the BRAKE side of the bike. Note: it can be easier to pass the wire harness through the rectangular opening if you “open” the fuse holder and remove the fuse before passing the wire harness. Once the ring terminal end of the wire harness is through the rectangular opening and most of the slack is taken up, move to the next step.

Fig 1.2

Step #2: Locate the bag labeled “rear”. You will see this long harness has 2 four pin plugs on one end, and 2 large multi pin connectors on the other end. At the area where the power harness exited the rectangular opening on the brake side of the bike, you will need to “fish” the end of the rear harness with 2 four pin connectors so they end up in the general area where the connectors of the power harness are inside the fairing.

#3: for the Amplifiers :

Locate the Road Glide Plate that came in the kit (Fig 1.2).

Locate the 2 “hook and loop” adhesive pieces included in the kit and separate the halves of

Fig 1.3

each. With the plate at room temperature or higher, apply one side of the hook and loop to the front of the plate as shown by the black rectangle also is Fig 1.2. Apply a second piece on the back of the plate as well.

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Important

In this install we refer to one amp as the “Master” and the other amp as the “Slave”. The Master always has the main input harness go into it, and is always the amp that powers the front fairing speakers. When installed, the amp on the

BACK SIDE of the plate is the MASTEr AMPlIfIEr.

Step #4: “Stick” one of the amplifiers to the BACK of the plate in the same orientation as shown in Fig 1.3.

Step #5: Using Fig 1.1 on page 5 for reference, locate the 4 bolts on each of the 4 corners around “B” and remove the ones on top left and top right (only). It’s best to have the amp on the plate near you before proceeding.

Step #6: Using Fig 1.1 on page 5 for reference, locate “C” and “D” which are the 2 pin plugs on each front speaker’s cabinet that have pink and pink with black stripe. These plugs attach the speaker’s wiring to the bike’s wiring and need to be separated. Locate the “main input” harness and insert its 8 pin plug into the “audio input” on the MASTER (back side) amplifier. On this harness, take the plug with the green heat shrink on the end and install it into the mating plug on the brake side of the bike.

Take the plug with the yellow heat shrink on the end and install it into the mating plug on the clutch side of the bike.

Step #7: Locate a bag with a harness in it that says “Audio Out” and plug it into the amplified out “pigtail” on the Master (back) amplifier. Take the

2 pin plug with the blue heat shrink on one end and install it into the plug going into the brake side speaker cabinet. Take the 2 pin plug with the brown heat shrink and install it into the plug going into the clutch side speaker cabinet.

Take one of the 2 power connectors on the splitter harness, and plug it into the power connector on the Master (back) amplifier.

Important — please make sure the 3 position aBC switch on the end of each amp is set to “a”. since the road Glide Ultra radio has a fader control,

“B” and “C” are not used for this installation.

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Step #8: Using Fig 1.1 on page 5 for reference, you will see 2 large factory harnesses between “A” and “B”. Wiggle the amp/plate into place around these harnesses so that the holes on the “legs” at the bottom of the plate line up with the holes where the factory bolts around “B” were.

With the plate in position, reinstall the factory bolts around “B” which will secure the Master amp on its plate to the bike.

Step #9: Take the second (Slave) amp and plug the second power connector from the splitter power into the amp. Locate the harness labeled “input link”. Take the 8 pin plug on the input link and plug it into the “audio input” on the “Slave” (front side) amplifier. The black 4 pin plug on the rear harness will plug into the “amplified output” on the slave (front side) amplifier. On the input link now plugged into the Slave (front side) amplifier, there are 2 empty blue 4 pin plugs. The white 4 pin plug on the rear harness will plug into the mating blue plug on the input link.

The leftover blue plug on this input link may be used later to send music to additional amplifiers as they become available.

You can now “stick” the Slave (front) amplifier to the plate in the same orientation as shown in Fig 1.4.

Fig 1.4

Step #10: Attach the amp’s brown wire to the negative (-) battery terminal and the amp’s red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. The factory battery wires are also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and ground wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative first.

When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifiers charging up.

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Step #11: Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure all four speakers are working.

Step #12 Re-install the seat making sure the amplifier’s “+” and “-” connectors are positioned in such away so they will not bend or break when the rider’s weight is on the seat.

This is the best time to take a few minutes to “clean up” the wiring and secure using supplied zip-ties.

section 4

f i nA l sy s t em A dj us tment

this section is VItal to the correct operation of the system, please make sure you read and understand it, or contact us!

Step #1: This kit has been designed to give great sound with the radio bass and treble controls in the middle position. Adjusting the bass and treble up or down no more than 3 bars from center will give excellent and reliable performance for most kinds of music. If you choose to exceed this suggestion and play at high volume levels, you may damage your system!

Step #2: The Wild Boar Audio 600.4 amplifier is a HIGH POWER amplifier specifically designed to work on the small charging system of a motorcycle. DO NOT start your motorcycle with the radio past half on the volume dial! When the start button is hit, all available current goes to your bike’s starter which “starves” the amplifier and may cause damage to your speakers!

Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel to each extreme side making sure any wiring is not impeding the steering of the motorcycle. failure to do so can result in serious injury or death!

re-install the fairing and the system is now ready to enjoy!

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warranty information

Wild Boar Audio branded speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to the original purchaser. Wild Boar Audio branded amplifiers are warranted for a period of 3 years to the original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. Please contact Hogtunes head office for all warranty claims.

Products found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.

Hogtunes/Wild Boar Audio’s complete warranty policy is available on our website at www.wildboaraudio.com

What Is not Covered:

1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of products.

2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes, Inc.

3) Subsequent damage to any other components.

4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Wild Boar Audio dealer.

5) Damage to products from an accident or collision.

6) Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.

7) Reduction of FM reception.

8) Damage caused by incorrect factory radio “re-flash” and amp combination

9) Damage to inbound warranty product due to improper packing.

IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill out the form in the Warranty section of our website www.wildboaraudio.com. Valid claims will have a return authorization number (ra#) generated which mUst appear on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.

Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!

Wild Boar Audio is owned by PowerSports Audio Inc.

Please record your amplifier’s serial #’s here:

“Master aMp”

“slave aMp”

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Wild Boar audio products will play much louder than the original equipment, which can be a distraction to the rider and/or passenger. please use caution when adjusting or playing your stereo at high volume, especially in traffic.

You are a valued customer so please:

Ride Alert

Arrive Alive!

www.wildboaraudio.com www.hogtunes.com