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PURE
CYCLING
MANUAL
ROAD BIKE
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Your bicycle and this manual comply with the safety requirements of the EN ISO standard
4210-2.
Important! Assembly instructions in the Quick Start Guide supplied with the road bike . The
Quick Start Guide is also available on our website www.canyon.com
Read pages 2 to 10 of this manual before your first ride. Perform the functional check on pages 11 and 12 of this manual before every ride!
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COMPONENTS
1 Frame: a Top tube b Down tube c Seat tube d Chainstay e Rear stay
2 Saddle
3 Seat post
4 Seat post clamp
5 Rear brake
6 Cassette sprockets
7 Front derailleur
8 Rear derailleur
9 Chain
10 Chainring
11 Crank set
12 Pedal
13 Stem
14 Handlebars
15 Brake/shift lever
16 Headset
17 Fork
18 Front brake
19 Brake rotor
20 Drop-out
Wheel:
21 Quick-release/thru axle
22 Spoke
23 Rim
24 Tyre
25 Hub
26 Valve
GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL
PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE FOLLOWING SYMBOLS:
The possible consequences described will not be repeated every time the symbols appear in the manual!
This symbol indicates an imminent risk to your life or health unless you comply with the instructions given or take preventive measures.
This symbol warns you about actions that could lead to damage to property or the environment.
This symbol signifies information about how to handle the product or refers to a passage in the operating instructions that deserves your special attention.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2 General notes on this manual
13 Notes on the assembly from the BikeGuard
16 Packing your Canyon road bike
17 How to use quick-releases and thru axles
17 How to securely mount the wheel with quick-releases
19 How to securely mount the wheel with thru axles
20 What to bear in mind when adding
21 Special characteristics of carbon
22 Special features of carbon wheels
24 Special features of triathlon, track bikes and time trial machines
28 Framesets – assembly technical data
33 Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider
34 Adjusting the saddle to the correct height
36 Adjusting the height of the handlebars
37 Aheadset ® stems or threadless system
41 Fore-to-aft position and saddle tilt
42 Adjusting saddle position and tilt
44 Fore-to-aft position and saddle tilt Speedmax
48 Seat post with integrated clamp
52 Handlebars and brake lever adjustment
52 Adjusting the handlebar position by turning the handlebar
54 Adjusting the handlebar width
56 Adjusting the handlebar height of the
60 Aluminium sleeve and clamping wedge on cockpits with wedge clamp
60 Adjusting the brake lever reach
62 Different systems at a glance – how they work
66 Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear
67 Vertical adjustment of the brake pads
68 Readjusting and synchronising
69 Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear
70 Adjusting the brake lever reach
74 The gears – How they work and how to use them
76 Checking and readjusting the gears
86 The wheels– tyres, inner tubes and air pressure
89 Rim trueness, spoke tension
91 Removing clincher and folding tyres
92 Mounting clincher and folding tyres
100 Threadless headset: Aheadset ®
103 Headset on the Aeroad model
104 Impact Protection Unit (IPU)
105 Transport of your Canyon bike
107 General notes on care and inspection
107 Washing and cleaning your Canyon
109 Safekeeping and storing your Canyon
112 Service and maintenance schedule
117 Legal requirements for riding on public roads
118 Liability for material defects
2
GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL
GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL
DEAR CANYON CUSTOMER,
In this manual we have compiled for you lots of tips on how to use your Canyon road bike, instructions for maintenance and care, plus a wealth of things worth knowing on bicycle technology. Read this manual thoroughly.
You will find it worth your while; even if you have cycled all your life and feel like a veteran with your new bike. Bicycle technology has developed tremendously over the past few years.
To have always fun and for your own safety when cycling on your Canyon you should read this manual as well as the Quick Start Guide of your model thoroughly and
X exactly follow the assembly instructions and the checklist “Before every ride” ,
X observe and follow the instructions given in the chapter “Before your first ride” ,
X see the chapter “Intended use” to read for which intended purpose your new road bike is designed and check the maximum permitted overall weight (road bike, rider, clothing and luggage) and
X carry out the minimum functional check before every ride. For more details on how to proceed, read the chapter “Before every ride” in this manual. Do not set off unless the functional check was passed one hundred per cent!
In this manual you will find a number of maintenance and repair routines descried in detail. When carrying out these routines, be aware that the instructions and information provided in your manual only refer to this Canyon road bike and that they do not necessarily apply to other bikes. Due to numerous designs and model changes, it may be that some of the routines are not described in every detail. For this reason be sure to also observe the operating instructions of our component suppliers enclosed with the BikeGuard.
Note that the instructions and tips may require further explanation depending on various factors, such as the experience and skills of the person doing the work or the tools being used, and some jobs may require additional (special) tools or measures not described in the manual.
Furthermore, you will find numerous service videos on our website www.canyon.com that will help you carry out small repair and maintenance works. For your own safety, never do work on your bicycle unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Keep in mind: This manual cannot teach you the skills of a bicycle mechanic. Even a manual as big as an encyclopaedia could not describe every possible combination of available bicycles and components. It therefore focuses on your newly purchased bicycle and standard components and provides useful information and warnings. It does, however, not teach you the basic skills of a bike mechanic or help you assemble a complete bike from the Canyon frameset!
This manual cannot teach you how to ride. For this reason this manual focuses on your newly purchased bike by drawing your attention to the most important notes and warnings. This manual cannot teach you riding a bike or make you familiar with the traffic rules.
Be aware that cycling is a hazardous activity that requires that the rider stays in control of his or her bike at all times.
Like in any sport, you can injure yourself when riding a bike. When you ride a bike, you must be aware of this risk and accept it.
GENERAL NOTES ON THIS MANUAL 3
Always keep in mind that you have no protection technique around you, which could avoid injuries, such as e.g. the bodywork or the airbag of a car.
Therefore, always ride carefully and respect the other traffic participants. Never ride under the influence of drugs, medication, alcohol or when you are tired. Do not ride with a second person on your bike and never ride without having your hands on the handlebars.
Before you set off please note: Always ride carefully so as not to endanger yourself or others.
Make it a habit to ride with appropriate equipment only. At the very least you should wear a properly adjusted bike helmet, protective glasses, sturdy shoes and suitable, brightly coloured clothing.
Your Canyon team wishes you lots of fun with your Canyon!
On delivery of the bike, the manufacturer has to attach additional manuals. Supplementary instructions are available at www.canyon.com/downloads
(as of November 2020).
Always with helmet and glasses
Observe: During cycling you must not hold onto a moving vehicle or trailer.
Keep both hands on the handlebar. Take your feet off the pedals only if required by the condition of the road.
Editor:
Canyon Bicycles GmbH
Karl-Tesche-Straße 12
D-56073 Koblenz
Service hotline: (+44) 3331501967
Online contact: www.canyon.com/contact
Concept, text, photos and graphic design:
Zedler – Institut für Fahrradtechnik und -Sicherheit GmbH www.zedler.de
Last update: July 2021, edition 12
© No part of this manual may be published, reprinted, translated or reproduced in extracts or with electronical systems or used for other business purposes without prior written permission of the author.
This manual does not help you to assemble a bicycle from individual parts or to repair it! Technical details in the text and illustrations of the user manuals are subject to change. This manual complies with the requirements of the EN ISO standard 4210-2.
This manual is subject to European law.
Please visit our website occasionally at www.canyon.com. There you will find the latest news, useful tips as well as the addresses of our distribution partners.
For your own safety, never do any assembly or adjusting work, unless you feel absolutely sure about it. If you are in doubt, call our service hotline or use the contact form on our website, www.canyon.com
4 INTENDED USE
INTENDED USE
To define the intended purposes for the different types of bicycles, we have classified our bikes in different categories. The purpose of this classification is to define the test requirements complying with the respective stress as early as during the development of our bikes. This is to ensure the highest possible level of safety for the use of our bikes.
It is therefore of major importance that the bikes are not used under conditions beyond the intended use, as this bears the risk that the bikes’ maximum load is exceeded and the frame or other components are damaged. This can result in severe crashes.
The maximum permissible overall weight should not exceed 120 kg . A model-specific deviation from the maximum permissible overall weight is marked on the sticker on the frame.
The maximum permitted overall weight is calculated as follows:
weight road bike (kg)
+ weight cyclist (kg)
+ weight luggage (z.B. rucksack or pannier bags, if approved)
= maximum permissible overall weight (kg)
Strictly observe the category to which your road bike belongs. You can determine the category of your road bike by means of the frame marking according to the following symbols. The category specifies the surfaces on which you are allowed to ride and the riding actions your road bike is designed for.
If you are not sure about the category your road bike belongs to contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Child seats are not allowed in general.
You find the description of the categories for all e-models in the Canyon e-bike manual and at www.canyon.com
Towing child trailers is not allowed in general.
Be sure to also read all supplementary instructions as well as the instructions of the component manufactures supplied with your new Canyon.
Condition 1
Bikes of category 1 are designed for riding on hard-surface roads where the wheels remain in permanent contact to the ground. These are in general road racing bicycles with racing handlebars or straight handlebars, triathlon or time trial bicycles .
The permissible maximum overall weight comprising rider, luggage and bicycle should not exceed 120 kg . Under certain circumstances this permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the component manufacturers’ recommendations for use.
Proven cyclocross bikes and gravel bikes with racing handlebars and cantilever or disc brakes are a special case in this category. In addition, these bikes are also suitable for gravel paths and offroad trails where a short loss of tyre contact with the ground due to small stairs or steps at a height of 15 to 20 cm can occur.
Condition 2
Bikes of category 2 are suitable for well-maintained hard-surface roads where the wheels remain in permanent contact to the ground. These bikes are designed for urban mobility and thus mainly for participation in road traffic and use on public and permitted lanes. This category includes urban, city and trekking bikes .
The permissible maximum overall weight comprising rider, luggage and bicycle should not exceed 120 kg . Under certain circumstances this permissible maximum weight can be further limited by the component manufacturers’ recommendations for use.
INTENDED USE 5
1
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL
BEFORE USAGE
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
EN 14781 BICYCLETTES DE ROUTE
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
EN 14781 ROADBIKE
1CX
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL BEFORE USAGE
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
DIN EN ISO 4210
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
DIN EN ISO 4210
2
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL
BEFORE USAGE
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
DIN EN ISO 4210
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
DIN EN ISO 4210
6 INTENDED USE
Condition 3
Bikes of category 3 comprise the intended uses of category 1 and 2 bikes and are additionally suited for rough and unpaved terrains. Sporadic jumps of a maximum height of approx. 60 cm are also included in the field of use of these bicycles. But inexperienced riders doing jumps of this height may land inappropriately, thus increasing the acting forces significantly which may result in damage and injuries. This category is represented by
MTB hardtails and full suspension bicycles with short suspension travel .
Condition 4
Bikes of category 4 comprise the intended uses of categories 1 to 3 bikes. In addition, bicycles of this category are suitable for very rough and partly blocked terrain with steep slopes and higher speeds as a result thereof. Regular, moderate jumps by experienced riders are no problem for these bicycles. The regular and long-term use of the bicycles on North Shore trails and in bike parks should, however, be excluded. Due to the higher stresses, these bicycles should be checked for possible damage after every ride. Full-suspension bikes with medium suspension travel are typical for this category.
3
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
DIN EN ISO 4210
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
DIN EN ISO 4210
4
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL
BEFORE USAGE
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL
BEFORE USAGE
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
DIN EN ISO 4210
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
DIN EN ISO 4210
Condition 5
This type of use stands for very challenging, highly blocked and extremely steep terrains, which can only be mastered by well-trained riders with technical skills. Rather high jumps at very high speeds as well as the intensive use of specific, identified bike parks or downhill trails are typical for this category. In the case of these bicycles it must be considered that a thorough check for possible damage is carried out after every ride. If there is a pre-existing damage, even minor stress can result in failure. A regular replacement of safety-relevant components should also be taken into account. Wearing special protectors is strongly recommended. Full suspension bikes with long suspension travel as well as dirt bikes are typical for this category.
INTENDED USE
5
BIKE CATEGORY
PLEASE READ MANUAL
BEFORE USAGE
MEETS SAFETY STANDARD
DIN EN ISO 4210
CONFORME AUX EXIGENCES DE SÉCURITÉ
DIN EN ISO 4210
7
The models GRAIL CF and GRAIL AL are designed in a way that you can also take your luggage in specific pannier bags for road and fitness bikes. Make sure that you do not exceed the permissible overall weight (rider, luggage and bicycle together) of 120 kg . If you use pannier bag systems, be sure to protect all contact points between pannier bag and frame with the protective films supplied.
Your Canyon road bike is approved for being used on free rollers (bicycle rollers without brake) as well as on bicycle rollers, provided the bike is clamped at the rear wheel axle and the accessories (e.g. specific axles) supplied by the manufacturer of the bicycle rollers are used. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Mounting a pannier rack is not permitted. If you want to take luggage with you, do it exclusively by using a specific bike rucksack.
Exception: The model GRAIL AL is designed to be equipped with a pannier rack.
With most clamps of bike carrier systems there is a risk of crushing large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may fail abruptly during use, aluminium frames are susceptible to dents. There are, however, special suitable models available from car accessory dealers.
Keep yourself informed by visiting our always updated website at www.canyon.com. There you will find an illustration visualising the intended use of all
Canyon bike models.
8 BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE
BEFORE YOUR FIRST
RIDE
1. Have you ever ridden a road, time trial, triathlon or track bicycle?
Keep in mind that these are sports bikes. You need to get used to them and to practise on them. Make yourself gradually familiar with your new bike in an unfrequented area and approach the riding characteristics step by step. Attend a riding technique course.
For more information visit www.canyon.com
Full braking; do not imitate
2. Are you familiar with the brake system?
Canyon bikes are normally delivered with the left brake lever operating the front brake. Check whether the lever of the front brake is in the position you are used to. If it is not, you will need to train to get used to the new configuration, as inadvertent use of the front brake can throw you off your bike. Have the lever-to-brake assignment changed by an expert, if necessary.
Make sure that the lever-to-brake assignment is the same on all your bikes.
Derailleur gears
Your new bike is equipped with modern brakes which may be far more powerful than those you are used to! Be sure to first practise using the brakes off public roads! Do approach the maximum possible deceleration gradually. For more information on the brakes, read the chapter “The brake system” .
3. Are you familiar with the type and functioning of the gears?
If not, make yourself familiar with the gears in a place clear of traffic. Make sure not to shift gears on the front and rear derailleur at the same time and not to pedal with too much force when shifting. For more information on the gears, read the chapter “The gears” .
Note that the brake lever setup may vary from country to country! Check which brake lever acts on which brake. If it does not comply with your habits, we recommend that you ask an expert to change the brake lever setup!
If you ride with your hands on aerobars
(triathlon handlebars) or in the low drop position of the GRAIL model, you cannot reach the brake levers as quickly as you would from other grip positions. Your stopping distance becomes longer. Look well ahead as you ride and be prepared for longer stopping distances.
BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE 9
4. Does the frame size fit, are saddle and handlebar properly adjusted?
Stand over the top tube of your bike and check whether there is a clearance of 2 to 3 fingers at least between the top tube and your crotch. Should this not be the case, contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com.
Riding with a too big frame may cause injuries, when getting off your bike quickly! The saddle should be set to a height from which you can just reach the pedal in its lowest position with your heel. Check whether your toes reach to the floor when you are sitting on the saddle.
For more information about the saddle position, read the chapter “Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider” .
Checking the clearance between top tube and crotch
5.
Have you ever tried clipless or step-in pedals and the shoes they go with?
Before setting off with clipless pedals for the first time, carefully practise locking one shoe onto a pedal and disengaging it while the bike is stationary. Lean against a wall when practising so that you do not topple over. Adjust the locking and release mechanism, if necessary. Be sure first to read the enclosed operating instructions which you will find enclosed. For more information about the pedals, read the chapter “The pedal systems” .
Shoes for step-in pedals not use flat or platform pedals or dual pedals
(clipless on one side, platform on the other side).
Road bikes and gravel bikes may only be used with clipless/step-in pedals. Do
Especially with small frame sizes, there is the risk of your foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, be sure to use step-in pedals, if possible. In addition, make sure the cleats are accurately adjusted.
Step-in pedal
A lack of practice with or a too tight disengaging mechanism of clipless pedals may result in problems of unclipping from the pedals! Risk of a fall!
10 BEFORE YOUR FIRST RIDE
6.
Note that you should only use your Canyon for its intended purpose!
Road and triathlon bikes are only intended for use on roads and lanes with a smooth, e.g. tarred or paved surface.
Cyclocross and gravel bikes are also suitable for gravel paths and off-road trails where a short loss of tyre contact with the ground due to small stairs or steps at a height of 15 to 20 cm can occur.
Track bicycles are true-bred sports bikes and only intended for use on enclosed race tracks.
The use of track bicycles on public roads or lanes is not permitted.
Canyon race machines are designed for riding on tarred roads
In general, Canyon road bikes are designed for a maximum permissible overall weight comprising rider, luggage and bike of 120 kg . With road bikes equipped with Mavic system wheels the permissible overall load is 100 kg. Make sure not to exceed these limit values. For more information on the use, read the chapter “Intended use” .
Gravelbike GRAIL CF SL
7. Are parts of your Canyon bike made of carbon?
Note that this material requires special care and careful use. Read in any case the chapter
“Special characteristics of carbon” .
Carbon
Canyon road, time trial, triathlon or track bikes are high-end sports equipment, representing lightweight construction as pinnacle of engineering. Also be a professional when it comes to handling of the material.
Misuse, unprofessional assembly or insufficient servicing can render the racing machine unsafe. Risk of accident!
BEFORE EVERY RIDE
CHECK THE FOLLOWING POINTS BEFORE EVERY
RIDE:
1. Are the quick-releases or thru axles of the front and rear wheel, seat post and other components properly closed? For more information, read the chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru axles” .
2. Are the tyres in good condition and do they have sufficient pressure? Spin the wheels to check whether the rims are true. Also look out for tyres with ruptured sides or broken axles or spokes while you do this. For more information, read the chapter “The wheels – tyres, inner tubes and air pressure” .
3. Test the brakes while standing by firmly pulling brake levers towards the handlebar. A pressure point should be reached after the lever has only travelled a short distance; the lever must, however, not touch the handlebar! The brake pads of rim brakes must hit the rim with their entire surface. They must not touch the tyres. For more information about the brakes , read the chapter “The brake system” .
Check the tyre pressure
BEFORE EVERY RIDE 11
You should not be able to pull the brake lever all the way to the handlebars
Improperly closed quick-releases or thru axles can cause bicycle components to come loose. Risk of a fall!
Do not use your Canyon, if it fails on one of these points!
12 BEFORE EVERY RIDE
4. If you intend to ride on public roads or in the dark, check the lighting set, see the chapter
“Legal requirements for riding on public roads” .
5. Let your Canyon bounce on the ground from a small height. If there is any rattling, check where it comes from. Check the bearings and bolted connections, if necessary.
6. The major accessory for a successful cycling tour is a small tool bag mounted underneath the saddle. The tool kit should include two plastic tyre levers, the most commonly used Allen keys, a spare tube, a tyre repair kit, your mobile phone and a little cash. Do not forget a tyre pump mounted to the frame.
Never ride without lighting in the dark
7. Take a sturdy lock with you, if you intend to leave your Canyon in a public area. The only way to protect your Canyon against theft in a public area is to lock it to an immovable object!
Emergency kit
To avoid damage to your Canyon, observe the maximum overall weight and the regulations regarding the transport of luggage and children given in the chapter “Intended use” . Furthermore, you should read the chapter “Transport of your Canyon bike” before transporting your Canyon by car or plane.
During use your Canyon is undergoing stress resulting from the surface of the road and the rider’s action. Due to these dynamic loads, the different components are affected by wear and fatigue. Check your Canyon regularly for wear marks as well as for scratches, dents, bent parts and incipient cracking. Components that have reached the end of their service life may fail suddenly without previous warning. Have your Canyon inspected regularly so that components can be replaced, if necessary. For more information on maintenance and operational safety, read the chapters “General notes on care and inspection” , “Recommended torque values” and “Service and maintenance schedule” .
ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 13
NOTES ON THE
ASSEMBLY FROM THE
BIKEGUARD
The assembly from the BikeGuard is no witchcraft, but you should proceed with care and deliberation. Unprofessional assembly can render the bike unsafe.
First we would like to make you familiar with the various components of your Canyon.
Unfold the front cover of your bicycle manual road bike. Here you will find a Canyon road bike with all the essential components. Keep this page folded out while you are reading. This means that you can quickly find the component that is being referred to in the text.
The illustration shows an arbitrary Canyon road bike – this is not what every bike will look like.
You find detailed information on the assembly of your Canyon road bike in the Quick Start Guide of your model.
GENERAL INFORMATION ON ROAD BIKE
ASSEMBLY
Your Canyon was completely assembled and adjusted at the factory. The bicycle is fully functional without any further adjustments being made once the assembly steps explained below have been completed. After carrying out assembly work, always do a test ride in an unfrequented place or on a quiet road.
The Quick Start Guide contains only a brief description of the assembly. If you are neither skilled nor experienced in this kind of work, read the extended chapters in this manual; also observe the instructions of the component manufacturers on their respective websites or at www.canyon.com
Before your first ride, carry out the checks described in the chapter “Before every ride” .
LIST OF TOOLS REQUIRED
1
2
Do not work on your bicycle with a box cutter. You may damage the component or hurt yourself. Be sure to use scissors where needed.
3
Do not clamp carbon frames or seat posts in the holding jaws of an assembly stand! This could damage the frame or the seat post. Mount a sturdy (aluminium) seat post instead and use this to clamp the frame, or use an assembly stand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.
For the assembly of your new Canyon bike you need the following tools supplied in the box with the small parts:
X
Canyon torque wrench incl. bits (1)
X optionally: specific Canyon torque wrench for seat post fastening (2)
X optionally: Canyon assembly paste (3)
Share the pleasure about your new
Canyon and ask a helper to assist you in unpacking it from the BikeGuard and in assembling it.
The easiest and safest way to assemble the bike is by using an assembly stand or ask someone to help you.
14 ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD
USING THE CANYON TORQUE WRENCH USING THE CANYON ASSEMBLY PASTE
ASSEMBLY FROM THE BIKEGUARD 15
At Canyon we regard the use of a torque wrench as essential to ensure that two parts can be fixed together securely and safely.
Put the matching bit into the holder of the Canyon torque wrench. Insert the Allen key fully into the bolt head.
Exceeding the maximum torque at the clamping bolts (e.g. at the stem, steerer tube, handlebars or seat post) leads to an excessively high clamping force. This can cause the component to fail and hence there is a high associated risk of accidents.
In addition, the product guarantee would be null and void in such a case. Too loose or overtightened screws or bolts can cause a failure and hence lead to an accident. Always observe strictly the torque values indicated by Canyon.
Slowly turn the handle of the Canyon torque wrench. When the bolt is tightened, the pointer moves over the scale. Stop the turning movement as soon as the pointer reaches the number of the prescribed torque value.
Assemble your Canyon by using the
Canyon torque wrench enclosed with the BikeGuard.
To fasten the seat post to the indicated torque value of 5 Nm you can use the specific Canyon torque wrench supplied as far as the available space does not allow the use of the Canyon standard torque wrench.
Carbon fibre components are particularly vulnerable to damage caused by excessive clamping force. Canyon assembly paste creates extra friction between two surfaces, allowing the necessary torque value to be reduced by up to 30 %.
It also retains its effectiveness in wet conditions and provides maximum protection against corrosion. Canyon assembly paste can be used for all carbon and aluminium connections. It’s ideal for this purpose, as it does not harden.
Prior to applying Canyon assembly paste, remove dirt particles and lubricant residues from the surfaces to be treated. Apply a thin and even film of
Canyon assembly paste to the cleaned surfaces using a brush or a chamois.
Mount the components, as specified. Use the
Canyon torque wrench and never exceed the prescribed maximum torque value. Remove excessive
Canyon assembly paste and re-seal the small sachet after use.
This is especially useful in the clamping areas of handlebars and stem, steerer tube and stem and seat post and seat tube, i.e. three areas where too much clamping force can damage either component, causing component failure or voiding the warranty. By reducing the clamping force, Canyon assembly paste relieves stress on sensitive carbon surfaces, preventing damage to fibres or the cracking of the carbon substructure.
Be sure to use assembly paste for seat posts. This ensures a secure fit. Changing the height of the seat post in the frame often leads to a scratching of the surface. This is normal wear and no reason for complaint. In the case of height-adjustable seat posts scratching is not an issue.
With the Aeroad models (as of MY20) observe the special handling of the seat post and the seat post clamp. Your find detailed information in the enclosed Quick Start Guide
Aeroad or on our website www.canyon.com
16 PACKING
PACKING YOUR
CANYON ROAD BIKE
If you have to pack your Canyon, e.g. to send it in for servicing to our workshop, or if you want to take it with you on holidays, you must bear in mind a few things to bring your bike safe and sound to destination.
Your BikeGuard contains the packing instructions
“How to pack your road bike” . Always follow these instructions strictly when packing your road bike.
Canyon Signature Pro Bike Bag
Your find the packing instructions explaining stepby-step how to pack the Canyon also on our website www.canyon.com
If you are travelling by plane pack your road bike either into the Canyon BikeGuard or use a suitable bike case, e.g. the Canyon BikeShuttle II or the
Canyon Signature Pro Bike Bag.
For a transport by car be sure to secure the bike appropriately in order to avoid any shifting inside the car. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions read the extended chapters of the manual further below or contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
The Canyon BikeGuard
Always secure the bicycle or bicycle components when putting it/them into the interior of your car. Parts shifting around can impair your safety.
In the event your Canyon has not been packed for dispatch according to the enclosed packing instructions, you have no right to claim refund of repair costs for possibly occurring transport damage from Canyon
Bicycles GmbH.
With most clamps of bike carrier systems there is a risk of crushing large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may fail abruptly during use, aluminium frames are susceptible to dents. There are, however, special suitable models available from car accessory dealers.
(tools, pannier bags, child seats etc.) which might come loose during transport. Risk of accident!
When taking your bike by car, make sure to remove all parts from your bike
QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES 17
HOW TO USE
QUICK-RELEASES AND
THRU AXLES
Although the use of quick-releases is very easy, they have repeatedly been the cause of accidents as a result of a wrong handling.
Quick-release retention mechanisms essentially consist of two operable parts:
Hand lever and locknut
X
The hand lever on one side of the hub which creates a clamping force via a cam when you close it.
X
The locknut on the other side of the hub with which the preload on the threaded rod (quick-release axle) is set.
HOW TO SECURELY MOUNT THE WHEEL WITH
QUICK-RELEASES
X
Open the quick-release. You should now be able to read “OPEN” on the lever.
Open the quick-release lever
X
Move the lever back, as if to close it. Now you should be able to read “CLOSE” on the outside of the lever. From the start of the closing movement up to about the first half of its travel the lever should move very easily, i.e. without clamping the wheel.
X
Over the second half of its travel, the force you need to move it, should increase considerably.
Towards the end of its travel the lever should be very hard to move. Use the ball of your thumb while your fingers pull on an immovable part such as the fork or frame.
Close the quick-release lever
Improperly mounted wheels can result in serious fall and accidents!
If the wheels are fastened with quick-releases, lock them together with the frame to an immovable object when the bike is parked.
Never ride a bicycle without having first checked whether the wheels are securely fastened! A wheel that comes loose whilst riding will throw you off your bicycle!
18 QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES
X
In its end position the lever should be in parallel to the wheel, i.e. It must not stick out to the side.
The lever must lie close to the frame so that it cannot be opened accidentally.
X
To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it is closed.
X
If you can turn the lever around, the wheel is not securely fastened. You have to open it again and increase the preload. Screw the tightening nut on the opposite side clockwise by half a turn.
To check whether the lever is securely locked try to turn it while it is closed
X
Close the lever again and check it again for tightness. If the lever can no longer be turned, it is properly fastened.
X
Finally lift the bicycle a few centimetres so that the wheel no longer touches the ground and hit the tyre from above. If it is properly fastened, the wheel will remain firmly fixed in the drop-outs of the frame.
The quick-release lever ought to be nearly parallel to the wheel and must not stick out
QUICK-RELEASES AND THRU AXLES 19
HOW TO SECURELY MOUNT THE WHEEL WITH
THRU AXLES
The RWS system from DT Swiss for road racing bikes includes thru axles which provide the forks and the rear frames with a higher stiffness.
Whenever your road bike is exposed to high loads, it remains directionally stable.
For detailed information on how to mount a front wheel with RWS system from DT Swiss, read the chapter “Assembly from the BikeGuard” further above in this manual.
RWS system from DT Swiss for road bikes
The rear wheel is mounted in the same way.
To remove the wheel put the thru-axle lever into the axle. Make sure that the thru-axle lever (with pentagonal pin) is accurately in the axle.
Turn the thru-axle lever anticlockwise. Release the thru axle completely by about two and a half turns, hold the wheel in its position and remove the axle from the hub.
Rear wheel thru axle
Make sure the levers of both quick-releases are always on the left side of your Canyon (opposite the chain side). This will help you to avoid mounting the front wheel the wrong way round.
With an insufficiently closed quick-release the wheels can come loose. Imminent risk of accident!
In its end position the lever should be at right angle to the quick-release axle
To be on the safe side you can replace the quick-releases by special locks.
They can only be opened and closed with a special, coded key or an Allen key. If you are in doubt or if you have any questions contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Make sure that the RWS quick-release lever is tightened to at least 15 Nm or
“as tight as possible by hand”.
Improperly mounted wheels can result in serious fall and accidents! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
After the wheel mounting do a brake test in standing. You should reach the pressure point of the brake before the brake lever reaches the handlebars. In the case of hydraulic brakes pump them, if necessary, until you reach a precise pressure point.
Removable thru-axle lever
Manufacturers of thru-axle systems deliver their products usually with detailed manuals. Read them carefully before removing the wheel or doing any maintenance work.
20 ADD-ON PARTS AND CHANGES
WHAT TO BEAR IN
MIND WHEN ADDING
COMPONENTS OR
MAKING CHANGES
Canyon bikes are sports equipment which are equipped according to the respective usage.
Please note that the mounting of mudguards or such like may impair the functioning and hence the safety whilst riding. Before buying and mounting any accessory, check whether this particular accessory part matches with your Canyon.
Mudguards/wheel protections
In the case of additional bells, horns or lighting accessories, inform yourself thoroughly whether they are permitted and tested and accordingly approved for use on public roads. Battery/accumulator-operated lights have to be marked with the wavy line and the letter “K” (see the chapter
“Legal requirements for riding on public roads” ).
Pannier rack
If you want to mount a pannier rack or a child seat or kids trailer, read the chapter “Intended use” beforehand to make sure whether it is permitted. If it is in principle, contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Only perform jobs you are absolutely sure of.
Handlebars, stems and forks should only be replaced by a skilled mechanic. Observe in any case the operating instructions of the accessory manufacturer. When mounting other components and accessories, it is your responsibility to mount the components appropriately. Bring your Canyon to our service workshop, if you have the slightest doubt.
Retrofitted accessories, such as mudguards, pannier rack, etc., can impair the functioning your the Canyon: to be on the safe side chose accessories from our product range. This will ensure you use compatible components.
Components that come loose or break off as a result of improper mounting can cause serious accidents. Safety-relevant bolts must be tightened to their prescribed torque values.
For all questions regarding the assembly of accessories, the compatibility of components or modifications, read the extended chapters of the manual further below or contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
CARBON 21
SPECIAL
CHARACTERISTICS
OF CARBON
Carbon fibre reinforced plastic, also referred to as carbon (or CRP), has a number of special characteristics compared to conventional lightweight materials. Having some knowledge of these characteristics is important so that you can enjoy your high-quality Canyon for many years and have full confidence in its material.
Carbon
Carbon fibre reinforced plastic has proved its value in road racing with numerous wins. Components made of this material are extremely lightweight and – presupposing proper design, processing and treatment – of outstanding strength and stress resistance.
However, there is one particular drawback of this material – its brittleness. Therefore, when subjected to stress it does not undergo permanent deformation, even though its inner structure may have sustained damage. In the extreme case, the fibres may separate, thus resulting in the so-called delamination and reducing the strength properties of the component. In contrast to steel or aluminium, carbon components that have sustained damage to their inner fibres as a result of excessive stress will show no outwardly visible deformation.
Carbon components that have been subjected to overstress are therefore liable to fail during use, possibly causing an accident with unforeseeable consequences. If you have had a critical incident with your bike, we advise you to have the relevant component inspected by our service workshop, or better still, the whole Canyon!
Always park your Canyon carefully and make sure it does not topple over. Carbon frames and parts may already sustain damage by simply toppling over.
Be attentive during riding. If your carbon component produces any creaking, this may indicate a material defect. Stop using your bike and contact our service hotline to discuss the steps to be taken. For your own safety, never ask for CRP components to be repaired!
Damaged carbon components should be replaced immediately and prevented from being used by anyone else.
Carbon components should never be exposed to high temperatures, as occurring during powder coating or enamelling. The heat generated by these processes may destroy the component. Do not leave carbon components in a car in direct sunlight for prolonged periods or near sources of heat.
With most clamps of bike carrier systems there is a risk of crushing large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may suddenly fail during use. Suitable, special-purpose models are available in the car accessory trade.
The permissible maximum overall weight comprising rider, luggage and bicycle must not exceed 120 kg . Trailers are not allowed in general!
22 CARBON
SPECIAL FEATURES OF CARBON WHEELS
As carbon wheels are made of carbon fibre reinforced plastic they come with particular aerodynamic properties and low weight.
WHAT TO BEAR IN MIND WHEN BRAKING WITH
CARBON WHEELS
As the braking surfaces are made of carbon, there are some things to keep in mind. Only use brake pads that are suitable for carbon wheels. We recommend that you always use the brake pads of the wheel manufacturer!
Wheels with carbon rims have a particular brake behaviour
Shimano and Campagnolo offer carbon brake pads, as well. These are, however, designed to match Shimano and Campagnolo rims. Carbon brake pads usually wear down faster than conventional brake pads. Keep in mind that the braking response of the rims needs getting used to, in particular in wet conditions. Therefore, test your brakes in a place free of traffic until you have full control of your bicycle.
The brake surfaces of the carbon rims are sensitive to heat. Therefore, when you are riding in the mountains, avoid any drag braking. Riding downhill e.g. with a permanently activated rear wheel brake may heat up the material and result in a deformation. The rim may sustain damage and the inner tube may burst, thus causing an accident. Always use both brakes simultaneously and release them intermittently to allow the material to cool off.
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of an assembly stand! The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy (aluminium) seat post instead and use this to clamp the frame, or use a workstand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or that clamps the fork and bottom bracket shell.
Check the condition of the brakes and make sure you only ride with brake pads that are suitable for carbon rims!
Check the condition of the brake pads at short intervals, as they might wear down faster than with aluminium rims.
Keep in mind that wet weather reduces your braking power considerably. Do not go for a ride, when it is about to rain or in wet conditions. Nevertheless, if you will find yourself with your Canyon on a wet or moist road, ride particularly carefully and at clearly reduced speed.
CARBON 23
CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Components made of carbon reinforced fibre should be cleaned with a soft rag and clear water, to which a little dish liquid may be added, if necessary. Tough stains of oil or grease can be removed with a petroleum-based cleaning agent.
Never use degreasing agents containing acetone, trichloroethlyene, methyl chloride etc., solvents or non-neutral, chemical or solvent-containing cleaning agents that could attack the surface!
Use car wax to protect the surface
You can use car wax to protect the surface and make it shine. Polishing agents or varnish cleaner contain solid constituents that might attack the surface.
Keep the braking surfaces of carbon wheels free of maintenance agents and lubricants!
Special pads protect carbon from damage
Depending on the respective usage, lightweight components made of carbon may wear down faster. We therefore strongly recommend that you follow the service intervals and have lightweight components checked and possibly replaced regularly by our service workshop and/or other specialist workshops.
Check your carbon component regularly, e.g. when cleaning your bike, for external damage, such as notches, cracks, dents, discolourations, etc. If the rag gets caught on something, this area must be examined. Stop using your Canyon. Contact our service hotline immediately or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame (e.g. the underside of the down tube) with special pads against rubbing cables or stone chips.
If you use pannier bag systems (only permitted for the models GRAIL CF and
AL), be sure to protect all contact points between pannier bag and frame with the protective films supplied.
Avoid greasing carbon components.
Grease would penetrate the surface of the carbon material, reducing the coefficient of friction and hence impairing the stability of the clamping joint when tightened within the permissible torque values. Once greased carbon fibre may never ever be fixed in a secure and safe way again!
Do not clamp a carbon frame or seat post in the holding jaws of an assembly stand!
The parts may sustain damage. Mount a sturdy
(aluminium) seat post instead and use this to clamp the frame, or use a work stand that holds the frame at three points inside the frame triangle or that clamps the fork and BB shell.
24 SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES
SPECIAL FEATURES
OF TRIATHLON, TRACK
BIKES AND TIME
TRIAL MACHINES
TIME TRIAL HANDLEBARS
In triathlon sport and time trial, where a particularly aerodynamic seating position is important, so called aero handlebars are used. With these aero models the shift levers are often positioned at the handlebar ends, the brake levers at the ends of bull-horn handlebars. When you ride with your back in a horizontal position, the brake levers are out of reach and the reaction time is longer, which makes your stopping distance longer. For this reason it is very important for you to ride particularly anticipatory.
The riding behaviour of time trial machines needs getting used to
Within certain limits the position of the handlebars can be adjusted according to your personal preferences. That is to say the straight part of the handlebars should point slightly downwards or upwards, whereas the upward inclination should not exceed 30 degrees.
The elbows should protrude a little to the rear beyond the arm rests
Make sure your forearms are always comfortably rested, i.e. your elbows should project beyond the armrests a little towards the rear.
Triathlon bikes, time trial machines and track bikes have specific riding characteristics. Make yourself familiar with your new bike in an unfrequented area and approach the riding characteristics step by step.
SPECIAL FEATURES OF TRIATHLON, TRACK BIKES AND TIME TRIAL MACHINES 25
TIME TRIAL BAR END SHIFTERS
With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use the shifter is pressed downwards to move the chain to the smaller sprockets in the rear, i.e. to achieve a higher gear, and to the smaller chainrings in the front, i.e. to achieve a smaller gear. By pulling the shifter upwards the chain can be moved to the bigger sprockets and chainrings.
The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing gears to continue pedalling smoothly without too much force as long as the chain moves between the sprockets! Thanks to special guides in the chainrings, the shifting process on today’s bikes also works under load. Changing gears under load shortens, however, the service life of your chain considerably.
Bar end shifters operate rear and front derailleur
Furthermore, this may cause the chain to jam between the chainstay and the chainrings (also referred to as “chain-suck”). Therefore, avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, in particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.
TRACK BIKES
Track bikes do not have brakes. The rear wheel hub is without freewheel. The cranks always rotate with the wheels. Therefore, when you start riding a track bike, let yourself help by an experienced trainer.
Rear derailleur
Track bike
Keep in mind that the stopping distance increases when you ride with your hands on aerobars. The brake levers are not within easy reach.
Track bikes differ completely from usual road racing bicycles. Carefully approach riding without freewheel and without brakes.
26 AFTER AN ACCIDENT
AFTER AN ACCIDENT
1. Check whether the wheels are still firmly fixed in the drop-outs and whether the rims are still centred with respect to the frame or fork. Spin the wheels and watch the clearance between the brake pads and the rim sides or between frame and tyre. If the width of the clearance changes markedly and you have no way to true the rim where you are, you will need to open the brakes a little, if necessary, so that the rim can run between the brake pads without touching them. In this case remember that the brakes will not act as powerfully as you are used to. For more information, see the chapters
“The brake system” and “The wheels” .
Check the reliable clamping of both wheels between the dropouts
2. Check that handlebar and stem are neither bent nor ruptured and whether they are level and upright. Check whether the stem is firmly fixed in the fork by trying to twist the handlebar relative to the front wheel. Also, briefly lean on the brake levers to make sure the handlebar is firmly fixed in the stem. For more information, see the chapters “Adjusting the Canyon road bike to the rider” and “The headset” .
Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel
3. See whether the chain still runs on the chainring and sprockets. If your bike fell over to the chain side, check that the gears still function properly. Ask somebody to lift the bicycle by the saddle and gently shift through all the gears.
Pay particular attention when switching to the small gears, making sure the rear derailleur does not get too close to the spokes as the chain climbs onto the larger sprockets. A bent rear derailleur or bent drop-outs can make the rear derailleur collide with the spokes – risk of a fall! This in turn can destroy the rear derailleur, the rear wheel or the frame. Check the front derailleur, as a damaged front derailleur can throw off the chain, thus interrupting the power train of the bicycle (see the chapter “The gears” ).
Verify that the chain still runs on the chainring and sprockets bon” .
Also observe the indications given in the chapter “Special characteristics of car-
AFTER AN ACCIDENT 27
4. Make sure the saddle is not twisted using the top tube or the BB shell as a reference.
5. Lift the bike up a few centimetres and let it bounce onto the ground. If this causes any sort of noise, search for loosened bolts or components.
6. Finally, take a good look at the whole bike to detect any deformation, discolouration or cracks.
Only ride back very carefully by taking the shortest possible way, if your bike went through this check without any doubt. Do not accelerate or brake hard and do not ride out of the saddle.
If you are in doubt about the performance of your bike, have yourself picked up by car, instead of taking a risk. Back home the bike must be examined thoroughly. Read the extended chapters of the manual further below or contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Check alignment of saddle along top tube to make sure it is not twisted
Check carbon components with particular attention and replace the parts for your safety, if you have the slightest doubt
Carbon components that have suffered from an impact force and bent parts made of aluminium may brake without previous warning. They must not be repaired, i.e. straightened, as the risk of breakage would still remain imminent. This applies in particular to the fork, the handlebar, the stem, the crank set, the seat post and the pedals. When in doubt, it is always recommendable to have these components replaced, as your safety comes first.
Replace lightweight components after an accident for you own safety
28 FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY
FRAMESETS –
ASSEMBLY
TECHNICAL DATA
Canyon also offers the high-quality carbon and aluminium frames individually for customized assembly with parts.
The person completing and mounting the add-on parts must therefore ensure that all components are compatible and properly mounted. There is a vast variety of available add-on parts, making it impossible for Canyon to cover every conceivable option in this manual. Canyon cannot be held responsible for any component combination possible.
Canyon Ultimate CF frameset
We strongly advise you to carefully read the component manufacturers’ operating instructions, as well. Failures in selecting bike components can, in principle, result in your Canyon being unsafe. We therefore advise you to have your bike assembled by a skilled mechanic or by our service centre. For your own safety, never do any work unless you feel absolutely sure about it.
Have your Canyon assembled at our workshop!
This manual may require further explanation, depending on the experience and/or skills of the person doing the work.
Some jobs may require additional (special) tools, such as special dismantling tools or additional operating instructions.
Do not clamp the frame onto an assembly stand by its tubes! This could cause damage to the thin-walled tubes. First mount a sturdy aluminium seat post and use this to clamp the frame, or use an assembly stand which holds the frame at three points from inside or which holds the fork and bottom bracket shell.
FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY 29
Frames are delivered ready for assembly, i.e. with threads cut and bearing seats and seat tube faced.
There is no need for any machining on the frame.
Do not modify the frame or any of its attachments, e.g. the adjustable cable guides etc., by filing, boring or the like.
Mount all add-on parts (except from: carbon seat posts, stems on forks with a carbon steerer tube and all seat posts on carbon frames) to the frame with high-value assembly grease. This helps to avoid corrosion. If you omit the grease, you may find it impossible to disassemble your Canyon at a later date.
Always observe the tightening torques indicated
Canyon road bike frames are delivered with the headset and fork already mounted.
Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque in small steps.
Check the secure seat of the component, as described in the relevant chapters.
For parts with no torque range given, tighten the bolts gradually to the maximum torque and check in between regularly the reliable fit of the component.
Make it a rule to use a torque wrench
Be sure to only mount the stem included in the delivery.
Whoever assembles a Canyon bike frame from a bare frame carries the responsibility for ensuring that the components are selected and mounted in accordance with the manufacturers’ guidelines, generally accepted standards and the state of the art in science and technology. In case there are any questions regarding the compatibility of individual parts with the frame, contact our service hotline or use the ontact form on our website www.canyon.com
All carbon fibres of the Canyon F10 frame were processed to withstand the stresses of riding. For this reason the riveted cable stops must only be subjected to forces as they are exerted by the gear or brake cable.
Do not pull on them at an oblique angle or against the direction of the cable, i.e. away from the frame, e.g. in an attempt to alter the effective cable length. This could otherwise cause damage to the frame.
On some components the torque values are printed or specified on stickers. Be sure to observe these specifications. Also follow the component manufacturers’ operating instructions enclosed with the delivery!
30 FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY
HEADSET STEUERSATZ
Depending on the model Canyon road bikes are equipped with different headsets.
Canyon road bikes and framesets are always delivered with fully assembled forks and adjusted headsets.
BOTTOM BRACKET BEARINGS
Fully mounted and adjusted headset with stem and fork
Depending on the model there are different bottom bracket systems in use, Press Fit PF-86 mm being used preferably.
Common cartridge bearings can be mounted directly into the bottom bracket shell of all models with high-grade grease. Observe the torque specifications of the bottom bracket manufacturer.
REAR FRAME WIDTH
Road bike frame with rim brake: 130 mm
Road bike frame with disc brake: 142 mm
Road bike frame with quick-release and disc brake: 135 mm
Bottom bracket bearing
FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY 31
REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER
The replaceable derailleur hangers are sufficiently fastened to all frame models. Observe the indicaated torque value specified on the derailleur hanger itself. Do not exceed the maximum torque values!
BOTTLE CAGE
Observe the maximum torque value of 2 Nm. Do not exceed the maximum torque value of 2 Nm.
CABLE STOPS
The cable stops riveted onto the Canyon Ultimate CF frame must only be subjected to forces acting in the same direction as the gear or brake cables.
Forces acting at an oblique angle or against the direction of the cable can cause damage to the frame.
Do not exceed the maximum torque of 1.5 Nm when replacing the replaceable derailleur hanger
Do not exceed the maximum torque value of 2 Nm when fastening the bottle cage
When replacing the derailleur hanger, make sure to apply a little grease between derailleur hanger and frame!
32 FRAMESETS – ASSEMBLY
SEAT POST
When selecting a new seat post make sure it has the same nominal diameter as the frame’s seat tube. You should be able to slide it in easily without pressing or turning. Different dimensions of frame and seat post can lead to failure of the carbon seat post and/or the frame.
Before mounting the seat post to the frame, make sure the seat tube is absolutely free of sharp edges and burrs. If either the seat post or the frame is made of carbon, then both parts have to be free of oil and grease. Clean and deburr the seat tube, if necessary.
Special case seat post on the Aeroad models as of MY20: In this case a thin layer of grease is applied to the upper edge of the seat tube. Be sure to read the enclosed Quick Start Guide Aeroad. You find more information on our website www.canyon.com
Make sure the seat post matches accurately the frame
Do not overtighten the seat post binder bolt or the quick-release of the seat tube clamp. Observe the indications in the chapter “Adjusting the saddle to the correct height” as well as the permitted torque values in the chapter “General notes on care and inspection” and also observe the instructions of the component manufacturers. Overtightening may damage the seat post and result in an accident and/or injury of the rider.
Do not exceed the indicated maximum torque value
Use the specific Canyon carbon assembly paste to achieve a firm seat of the seat post.
With the Aeroad models (as of MY20) observe the special handling of the seat post and the seat post clamp. Your find detailed information in the enclosed Quick Start Guide
Aeroad or on our website www.canyon.com
Observe the information on seat post diameters at www.canyon.com/service
Seat post and seat tube diameters that do not match exactly can lead to a rupture of the frame or a carbon seat post. This can result in an accident or injury to the rider.
Never grease a carbon seat post or the seat tube of a carbon frame.
Your seat post must be inserted into the seat tube beyond its minimum mark and its end must reach beyond the top tube.
Never ride your Canyon with the minimum mark of the seat post being visible.
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 33
ADJUSTING THE
CANYON ROAD BIKE
TO THE RIDER
No matter whether you want to ride in streamlined position or relaxed on a Canyon racing machine. The (seating) position is crucial for your well-being and the development of your riding performance on your Canyon. Therefore, be sure to adjust both saddle and handlebars of your Canyon as accurately as possible to your needs.
Be sure there is enough clearance between crotch and top tube
In principle, road racing bicycles are sports bikes designed for speed. For this reason alone riding a road racing bicycle requires certain basic preconditions of the trunk, shoulder and neck muscles.
Your body height is the decisive criterion when choosing the frame size of your Canyon. By choosing a specific type of bike you already roughly determine the posture you will be riding in. However, some components of your Canyon are designed in a way that you can adjust them to your proportions up to a certain degree. These include the seat post, the stem and the brake levers.
Typical position of a road racing cyclist
Never ride a bike with too high a frame, resulting in a low crotch clearance when you stand over the bike.
The Canyon Perfect Position System (PPS) offers you the possibility to select your Canyon perfectly tuned to your body without a test ride.
For more details on the PPS visit our website at www.canyon.com
All the tasks described in the following require some experience, appropriate tools and manual skills. After assembly be sure to make a short check (see the chapter “Before every ride” ) and do a test ride in an unfrequented place or on a quiet road. This will allow you to safely check whether everything is in good order. If you are not sure, we recommend that you only check the seating position.
If in doubt, ask an expert to adjust your Canyon.
34 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
SEATING POSITION
ADJUSTING THE
SADDLE TO THE
CORRECT HEIGHT
The correct saddle height is all a matter of how it allows you to pedal.
Important: When pedalling, the ball of your big toe should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindle. With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs completely at the lowest point. If the saddle is too high, you will have trouble passing through the lowest point and your pedalling will become awkward. If the saddle is too low, you may soon find your knees aching.
You can check the height of your saddle in the following simple way. This is best done wearing flat-soled shoes.
To adjust the saddle height loosen the seat post binder bolt
X
Sit on the saddle and put one heel on the pedal at its lowest point. The leg must be fully stretched in this position. Make sure your hips remain straight when doing this.
The leg must be fully stretched with the heel on the pedal at its lowest point
To adjust the saddle height loosen the binder bolt or quick-release (read the chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru axles” beforehand). Use a suitable tool to release the seat post binder bolt by turning it anticlockwise.
Do not pull the seat post out beyond the marking available on the post. In the case of frames with long seat tube which continues beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the height of the top tube! This can mean a minimum insertion length of 10 centimetres (4.5 in.) or more.
Rule of thumb to determine the suitable saddle height (SH):
SH = Inseam (length of inside leg, barefoot) x
0.885
Seat posts and frames may have different minimum insertion depths. Be sure to insert the seat post to the deepest insertion depth recommended.
Check the seating position of adolescents at regular intervals every two to three months.
Never apply grease or oil into a seat tube of a frame made of carbon, unless an aluminium sleeve is inside the frame. If you mount a carbon seat post, do not put any grease on it, even if the frame is made of metal. Once greased carbon fibre components may never again be clamped reliably!
SEATING POSITION
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 35
X
The loosened seat post can now be adjusted in height. Make sure the part of the seat post inside the seat tube is always well greased. (exception: frames and seat posts made of carbon). Do not use brute force, if the seat post does not move easily inside the seat tube. Contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
X
Align the saddle with the frame using the saddle nose and the bottom bracket or top tube as references.
X
Clamp the seat post tight again. by turning the seat post binder bolt clockwise. You should not need much strength in your hands to clamp the seat post sufficiently tight. Otherwise the seat post may be the wrong size for the frame. If you are in doubt contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
X
Check the tight fit of the seat post. Take hold of the saddle with your hands at both ends and try to turn the seat post in the seat tube. If it does not move, the seat post is firmly seated.
X
Does the leg stretch test now produce the correct result? Check by moving your foot and pedal to the lowest point. If the ball of your big toe is exactly above the pedal centre (ideal pedalling position) your knee should be slightly bent. If it is, you have adjusted the saddle height correctly.
X
Check whether you can balance safely on your bike while sitting on the saddle by stretching your feet to the floor. If you cannot, you should lower the saddle a little.
Check alignment of saddle along top tube to make sure it is not twisted
Try twisting the saddle relative to the frame
If your Canyon has a seat post with integrated clamp observe the chapter
“Seat post with integrated clamp” .
Do not overtighten the binder bolt of the seat post clamp. Overtightening can damage the seat post or the frame. Risk of accident!
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) and check in between the proper fit of the component. Never exceed the maximum torque value indicated by the manufacturer!
Never ride your bicycle with the seat post drawn out beyond the limit, maximum or stop mark! The seat post might break or cause severe damage to the frame. If your bicycle has a long seat tube continuing beyond the top tube, the seat post should at least reach below the level of the top tube and the tip of the rear stays!
36 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT
ADJUSTING THE
HEIGHT OF THE
HANDLEBARS
The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper body. The deeper the handlebars, the more inclined the upper body. This means a more streamlined position for the rider and more weight to bear on the front wheel, but the strongly inclined position is more strenuous and uncomfortable, as the strain on wrists, arms, upper body and neck increase.
The height of the handlebars determines the inclination of the upper body
The riding behaviour of time trial machines needs getting used to
Stems come in very different lengths and shaft and binder tube diameters. A stem of inappropriate dimensions can become a source of danger: Handlebars and stem may break, causing an accident in the process.
When replacing any parts be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts.
On the GRAIL CF model the lower spacers can be replaced by special spacers included in the scope of delivery. You find more information about the GRAIL CF model at www.canyon.com/road/grail/
Track bikes are puristic and uncompromising sports equipment
Make sure the handlebar-stem-combination is approved by the handlebar and/or stem manufacturer.
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 37
AHEADSET ® STEMS OR THREADLESS SYSTEM
(Aheadset ® is a registered trademark of the
Dia-Compe company)
On bikes with an Aheadset ® , the stem also serves to adjust the headset bearing pressure. If you change the position of the stem, you have to readjust the bearings (see the chapter “The Headset” ). The vertical setting range is determined by the intermediate rings, also referred to as spacers.
With flip-flop stem models it is also possible to mount the stem the other way round to alter the handlebar height.
X
Release the bolt at the top of the fork steerer tube which serves to adjust the initial bearing pressure and remove the Ahead cap.
X
Release the bolts on the side or at the rear of the stem and pull the stem off the fork.
X
Now you can remove the spacers.
X
Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the stem clamping area.
X
Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.
Loosen the bolts on the side of the stem
Remove the spacers under the stem and place them above the stem
Also observe the enclosed operating inturers. structions of the component manufac-
If you want to reduce the number of spacers, you have to shorten the steerer tube. This change is irreversible. For this reason, a shortening should not be carried out until you are absolutely sure about the seating position.
Have this job carried out by an experienced mechanic. Wrong handling and using a wrong tool when shortening the steerer tube leads to irreparable material damage which may be dangerous under certain circumstances. Canyon does not assume any liability for damage to the steerer tube caused by inappropriate handling.
This shall render the warranty null and void. We recommend that you contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Apply some carbon assembly paste on the steerer tube ues”
The stem is one of the load bearing parts of your bike. Changes to it can endanger your safety. Note that the bolted connections of the stem and the handlebars have to be tightened to specified torques. For the prescribed values, see the chapter “Recommended torque val-
. If you plan any changes, contact, if necessary, our service hotline or use the contact form on our website, www.canyon.com
38 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT
If you want to turn around the stem, you have to additionally remove the handlebars.
X
To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate clamping the handlebars and remove them carefully.
X
Apply a little Canyon carbon assembly paste in this clamping area and retighten the handlebars after having turned around the stem.
X
Centre the handlebars accurately in the stem clamp.
X
Tighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench according to the indications. Please note that when using carbon assembly paste you normally need not use the maximum tightening torque. It will do already to tighten the bolts with tightening torques that are 20 to 25 % below the maximum tightening torques, i.e. 6 Nm instead of 8 Nm. That will prevent the material from damage.
X
Readjust the bearing.
X
Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment with the front wheel and at right angle relative to the handlebars and the direction of motion. After realignment of the stem retighten it and check whether the handlebars resist twisting and turning (see the chapter “The headset” ).
Readjust the bearing
Retighten the stem to the prescribed torque
Make sure the handlebar clamping area is free of sharp edges. If you plan any changes, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website, www.canyon.com
If you have a Canyon road bike with a carbon steerer tube (which you can tell by the black or black shining colour in the stem slit), you have to be extremely careful when tightening the stem. This is a job for experts only!
Note that the bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to the prescribed torque values. You find the prescribed values in the chapter "Recommended torque values" or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers.
Contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com. Otherwise, the handlebars or the stem may loosen or break. This can lead to a severe crash.
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 39
I-LOCK SYSTEM
In the case of bikes with “I-Lock” system the headset is also fixed by the stem. If you modify the stem position, you also have to readjust the headset (see the chapter “The headset” ). Some models are equipped with a transition plate serving the purpose of maintaining the set headset play even with the stem or cockpit dismounted.
To readjust the headset, this transition plate as well as the steerer tube clamp has to be loosened.
The transition plate is thus just an assembly aid.
Observe the indicated torque value. Changing the height of the handlebars can only be achieved by removing the spacers from beneath the stem and by slipping them on top of it or, with so-called flip-flop models, by turning the stem around.
X
Loosen the bolts on the side of the stem by two to three turns. Turn back the bolts of the headset adjusting device, i.e. anticlockwise.
X
Remove the cap at the stem top.
X
Keep hold of the fork and slip the stem off the steerer tube.
X
Now you can remove the spacers.
X
Apply a litte Canyon carbon assembly paste in the stem clamping area.
X
Remount the stem entirely on the fork steerer tube and slip the spacers you have removed above the stem.
Loosen the bolts on the side of the stem
Slightly tighten the bolts of the transition plate
Remove the cap
Your Canyon road bike has a steerer tube made of carbon, which you can tell by the black or shining black colour in the stem slit. Be sure to be very carefully when doing any work in the cockpit area of your
Canyon. This is a job for skilled mechanics only! Wrong handling and using a wrong tool when shortening the steerer tube leads to irreparable material damage which may be dangerous under certain circumstances. Canyon does not assume any liability for damage to the steerer tube caused by inappropriate handling. This shall render the warranty null and void. If you are not sure, please contact our
Canyon workshop to have the adjustments made. Contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
spacers might rattle during riding. When you are sure you have found the adequate handlebar height, have the steerer tube shortened by a skilled mechanic.
fall!
This is a rough-and-ready adjustment to check the handlebar position, as the
When replacing the stem be sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe side, original spare parts. Due to this special type of clamping, the usage of other models may cause damage, in particular in the case of carbon forks. Risk of a
Canyon denies any liability for combinations with other stem models. This shall render the warranty null and void.
40 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT
If you want to turn around the stem, you have to additionally remove the handlebars.
X
To do so release the bolts of the stem front plate clamping the handlebars and remove them carefully.
X
Apply some carbon assembly paste in this clamping area, as well, and re-mount the handlebar after having turned around the stem.
X
Slide the cap on top of the steerer tube, keep hold of the fork and press stem and cap downwards to eliminate any play.
X
Realign the stem by making sure it is in alignment with the front wheel and at right angle relative to the handlebars and the direction of motion.
X
Continue by aligning the handlebars in the stem clamp, i.e. the drops should be in horizontal position or, at the most, slant slightly downwards towards the rear.
X
Tighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench according to the indications.
X
Adjust the bearing play and make a strength test, as described further below.
Slip off the spacers
Apply some carbon assembly paste on the steerer tube
Remount the cap and press it downwards to the fork you keep hold of and retighten the aligned stem to the prescribed tightening torque
Note that the bolted connections of stem and handlebars have to be tightened to the prescribed torque values. You will find the prescribed values on the components themselves or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. Otherwise, the handlebars or the stem may loosen or break.
This can lead to a severe crash.
Retighten all bolts of the stem clamp with a torque wrench by observing the correct tightening torques
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 41
FORE-TO-AFT
POSITION AND
SADDLE TILT
The inclination of your upper body and hence your riding comfort and pedalling power are also influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle as well as by the saddle tilt.
The inclination of your upper body is influenced by the distance between the grips of the handlebars and the saddle
This distance can be altered slightly by changing the position of the saddle rails on the seat post.
However, shifting the saddle rails in the seat post also influences pedalling. Depending on whether the saddle is positioned further to the front or rear, the rider pedals more or less from behind.
You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed manner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
For the VCLS 2.0 seat post the saddle with a slightly forward inclined top edge is the most suitable position. For that reason you should start with this position.
Do avoid a rearward tilt of the saddle
Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be tightened to the prescribed torque values. Use a torque wrench and do not exceed the maximum torque values! You find them in the chapter “Recommended torque values” , on the components themselves and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
Never clamp the saddle in the curved sections of the saddle rail, but always in the straight section.
The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the stem allows you to make far larger changes to the fore-to-aft position, because stems come in lengths differing by more than ten centimetres. In most of the cases the length of the cables must be adjusted. Be sure to have this job done by a specialist workshop. If you have questions, call our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
42 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTING SADDLE POSITION AND TILT
Patent clamping with two parallel bolts
With so called patent seat posts two bolts fix the clamping mechanism, which ensures the tilt and the vertical position of the saddle. Release both seat clamp bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolts two to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart.
Tighten both bolts evenly and alternately without exceeding the permissible maximum torque value
Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You may have to give it a light blow to move it. Observe the marking on the saddle rail and do not go beyond.
Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal as you tighten the bolt evenly and alternately.
The bike should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.
After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle.
Check the firm seat of the retightened saddle
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 43
Clamping with two bolts in line
Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can come apart. Move the saddle forward or backward as desired to adjust the horizontal position. Tighten both bolts evenly so the saddle remains at the same angle.
If you wish to lower the nose of the saddle a little, turn the front bolt. You might have to loosen the rear bolt a little as well. To lower the rear part of the saddle, the rear bolt has to be turned. Having found your preferred position make sure both clamps are correctly aligned with the saddle rails before tightening the bolts to the correct torque value as prescribed by the seat post manufacturer.
Release both bolts by two to three turns at the most
In doing so, observe the recommended torque values in the chapter “General notes on care and inspection” . After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle.
Retighten the bolts evenly and alternately to the prescribed torque value
There is a wide range of seat posts varying in length and in the diameter of the seat post tube. A wrong choice can become a serious source of danger: Seat posts can brake ar loosen suddenly, thus resulting in an accident.
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the values indicated in the chapter “Recommended torque values” , in the enclosed manuals and/or on the components themselves.
VCLS Post 2.0
Be sure to also read the supplementary
VCLS Post 2.0 manual when you have purchased a VCLS Post 2.0.
Be sure the saddle rail is clamped within the marked area
Bring the saddle rail in a position that the seat post clamping is within the marked area. If there is no marking, the clamping must be effected on the straight portion of the rail and on no account on the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!
When replacing the saddle, bear in mind that seat posts are normally designed for a saddle rail diameter of seven millimetres.
Saddle rails of other dimensions may result in seat post failure, possibly throwing the rider off the bike.
44 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE TILT
SPEEDMAX
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 45
The fore-to-aft position of the saddle can be adjusted individually over a wide range. Four adjustment options are available for this:
X
Shifting the saddle rails in the saddle clamping device
X
Clamping the saddle rails in the front or rear clamping slide holes
X
Shifting the saddle slide horizontally in the oblong hole of the seat post
X
Turning the saddle slide on the seat post by 180°
With the adjustment options, in particular by turning the saddle slide around, a larger range of distance (0 mm to 85 mm) to the middle of the bottom bracket is achieved.
Modifying the longitudinal position of the saddle on the seat post, however, also affects pedalling.
Depending on whether the saddle is positioned further to the front or rear, the rider pedals more or less from behind.
First, loosen the two horizontally positioned Allen bolts of the saddle slide clamp by two to three turns. If necessary, hold the bolts in place on the other side with another Allen key.
If the range is insufficient, you can further loosen the two almost vertical bolts. Shift the saddle rails in the saddle clamping device.
If the saddle slide cannot yet be shifted, also loosen the two nearly vertical bolts a little without shifting the saddle in the saddle clamping device.
Now you can move the saddle together with the saddle slide horizontally on the seat post and adjust the tilt to your needs.
Make sure the saddle rails are positioned in such a way that the clamp of the seat post is within the prescribed range. If there is no marking on the saddle rails, the clamping must be done on the straight section and on no account in the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!
Also read the supplementary manuals at www.canyon.com/downloads
(as of November 2020).
Never ride if the seat post has been pulled out beyond the MAX marking or if the saddle is clamped outside the clamping range! The seat post or the saddle rails could brake or suffer damage. Risk of a fall!
46 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 47
2
1
If the adjustment range is still not sufficient, fully unscrew the two horizontally positioned Allen bolts. Remove the saddle slide from the seat post, turn it round by 180° and reposition it. Subsequently, you must also turn the saddle.
As a further option, the saddle clamping bolts can optionally be tightened in the front (1) or the rear
(2) threaded holes at the saddle clamping device.
When fixing the saddle, make sure the upper holder lies close around the saddle rails and tighten both Allen bolts to the indicated torque value of
4 Nm.
Set the saddle so that it is horizontal or slightly tilted forward. If the saddle is tilted too far forward you cannot pedal relaxed. You will constantly support yourself on the handlebars to prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.
After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of the saddle.
Re-assemble the saddle, saddle clamping device and saddle slide in the new positions. When mounting the Allen bolts pay attention to the order of nuts, spacers and bolts and tighten them only to the point where the saddle clamping device can still be moved.
Now bring the saddle to the desired tilt. Tighten the lower, i.e. horizontally positioned, Allen bolts evenly so the saddle remains at the desired angle. Use a torque wrench. If the clamping of your seat post is not tight with a torque value of 8 Nm, tighten it further in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) up to a maximum torque value of 10 Nm.
Do not exceed the maximum torque value!
Bring the saddle rail in a position that the seat post clamping is within the marked area. If there is no marking, the clamping must be effected on the straight portion of the rail and on no account on the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!
Use a torque wrench with bits and never exceed the maximum torque values!
Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month according to the values indicated in the chapter “Recommended torque values” .
48 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER SEAT POST
SEAT POST WITH
INTEGRATED CLAMP
MOUNTING A ROUND SEAT POST WITH CLAMP
INTEGRATED IN THE FRAME
Some Canyon road and gravel bikes are equipped with a standard integrated clamp, such as the models Inflite and Grail.
Pull the seat post out again. Apply a little Canyon assembly paste to the bottom part of the seat post and inside the seat tube or in the clamping area of the seat post.
SEAT POST ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 49
Be sure to use the torque wrench supplied and tighten to the necessary torque value. Do not exceed the maximum permissible torque of 5 Nm.
MOUNTING AN AERO SEAT POST
WITH CLAMP INTEGRATED IN THE FRAME
Remove the protection cap or the rubber plug from the seat tube in the area where the rear stays meet the tube. Open the bolts at the seat tube clamp by two to maximum three turns. Do not screw out the bolt completely, otherwise the mechanism will fall apart.
Slide the seat post into the seat tube to the desired saddle height. Your seat post must be inserted in the frame at least up to below the top tube and up to the MAX marking of the seat post.
The seat post must be clamped in the area marked on the seat post.
You should be able to insert the seat post easily into the frame without pressing or turning. If this is not the case, loosen the seat post binder bolt a little more.
Bring the saddle including seat post in the desired position and slightly tighten the bolt of the seat tube clamping by using the Canyon torque wrench.
Never apply any grease or oil to clamping areas made of carbon!
Measure the saddle height of your previous bicycle from the middle of the bottom bracket up to the top edge of the saddle in the middle of the saddle. Then transfer the saddle height to your new Canyon.
Check the tight fit of the seat post in the frame by taking hold of the saddle at both ends and trying to turn it. Remount the rubber plug on the head of the Allen bolt in the seat tube.
Some Canyon road bikes are equipped with an
Aero seat post (aerodynamic shape) with integrated clamp, such as the Aeroad model.
DISMOUNTING A ROUND SEAT POST WITH CLAMP
INTEGRATED IN THE FRAME
Loosen the Allen bolt on the integrated clamp punch (in the rear of the seat tube), clamping the seat post in the seat tube anticlockwise by approx. two to max. three turns.
Keep in mind that the Aeroad is fully prepared for the mounting and taking into service: The seat tube is greased in the area of the seal, the clamp punch is provided with Canyon assembly paste.
Grease
Now you can pull the seat post from the seat tube.
If the seat post cannot be pulled out easily, loosen the bolt a little further. Sometimes, a light tap on the saddle, forwards or backwards in the longitudinal direction, may also be necessary so that the seat post and the clamp mechanism detach from each other.
Carbon paste
You can mount the dry seat post directly.
When changing the saddle height make sure that the area between seat post and sealing is always free of dirt.
In the original condition the Aeroad is already pretreated. You do not have to apply any Canyon assembly paste or grease.
Be sure not to apply Canyon assembly paste to the seat post itself or to the top edge of the seat tube.
50 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
SEAT POST
SADDLE CLAMP ON THE SEAT POST WITH CLAMP
INTEGRATED IN THE FRAME
FORE-TO-AFT POSITION AND SADDLE
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 51
Open the bolts at the seat tube clamp by two to maximum three turns. Do not screw out the bolt completely, otherwise the mechanism will fall apart.
On this seat post, the head fixing the inclination and the horizontal position of the saddle is held by a horizontal Allen bolt mounted crosswise to the direction of motion.
Loosen the bolt on the right side at the top of the seat post. Unscrew the bolt by two to max. three turns at the most. Do not undo the bolt fully, as it is an essential part of the clamping system.
To change the saddle tilt loosen the clamp mechanism at the seat post head.
Press on the tip of the saddle or on the end of the saddle or pull on the end of the saddle to bring the saddle to the desired tilt. You may have to give it a light blow to move it.
Start by inserting the seat post at a slight forward angle to avoid a collision between the seat post and the seal.
Slide the seat post into the seat tube to the desired saddle height. Your seat post must be inserted in the frame at least up to below the top tube and up to the MAX marking of the seat post. The seat post must be clamped in the area marked on the seat post.
Be sure to use the torque wrench supplied and tighten to the necessary torque value. Do not exceed the maximum permissible torque of 5 Nm.
The clamping bolt is in two parts, i.e. on the right side it is a conventional bolt, on the left side there is a threaded bolt.
Information about maintenance and care of your Aero seat post is available in the chapter spection” .
“General notes on care and in-
Measure the saddle height of your previous bicycle from the middle of the bottom bracket up to the top edge of the saddle in the middle of the saddle. Then transfer the saddle height to your new Canyon.
Move the saddle forth or back, as desired. You may have to give it a light blow to move it. Observe the marking on the saddle rail and do not go beyond.
Bring the saddle rail in a position that the seat post clamping is within the marked area. If there is no marking, the clamping must be done on the straight part of the rail and on no account in the front or rear bend. Risk of breakage!
Finish by performing the checks described in the chapters “Before your first ride” and “Before every ride” .
52 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS
HANDLEBARS AND
BRAKE LEVER
ADJUSTMENT
With road bikes the straight bar ends should be parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards toward the rear. The tips of the brake levers should coincide with an imaginary straight line extending forward from the straight extension below the drops. Shifting the brake levers is a job best left to an expert, as it involves retaping the handlebars afterwards.
The straight extension below the drops should be parallel to the ground or slant slightly downwards towards the rear
ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR POSITION BY
TURNING THE HANDLEBAR
X
Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of the stem.
X
Turn the handlebars to the desired position.
X
Make sure the handlebars are accurately centred in the stem.
Please note that there are two different procedures of how to securely fasten the handlebars.
Release the Allen bolt(s) at the front side of the stem
Alternative 1
Tightening Canyon Aheadset ® -stems with faceplate.
X
Slightly tighten both upper bolts (pos. 1+2)
(1 Nm). The slot should be fully closed in the end, the faceplate should be flush with the body.
To do this, you may have to loosen both lower bolts (pos. 3+4) a little.
X
Continue by tightening both lower bolts (pos.
3+4) according to the indicated torques on the stem (5 or 8 Nm).
X
Finish by tightening both upper bolts (pos. 1+2) according to the indicated torques on the stem
(5 or 8 Nm). Note that this torque value only applies to the combination of the Canyon stem with the Canyon handlebars.
The upper slot has to be closed completely
1 2
3 4
Finish by tightening the bolts to the marked torque value
HANDLEBARS AND BRAKE LEVERS
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 53
Alternative 2
Tightening conventional Aheadset faceplate.
® -stems with
X
Re-tighten the bolts carefully and evenly. Make sure the upper and lower clamping slots between faceplate and stem body are parallel and identical in width.
X
Once it fits tighten the bolts evenly and in a cross pattern according to the marked tightening torque by using the Canyon torque wrench.
In doing so, observe the recommended torque values (see the chapter “General notes on care and inspection” ).
The upper and lower clamping slots between faceplate and stem body must be parallel and identical in width
Check the firm seat of the handlebars by standing in front of your Canyon and seizing the handlebars at both brake levers. The handlebars must be tight and withstand any downward jerk. Gently retighten the clamping bolt(s), if necessary.
Retighten the bolts to the prescribed torque
Note that the stopping distance increases, when you ride with your hands on the tops or in aerodynamic position. The brake levers are not within easy reach.
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars and brakes have to be tightened to the prescribed torque values. You find the prescribed values in the chapter “General notes on care and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break.
This can lead to a severe crash.
If your road bike has a flat bar set it to a position in which your wrists are relaxed and not turned too much outwards.
The handlebar must withstand any strong jerk
Brake lever for flat bars
54 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
COCKPIT
COCKPIT
Some Canyon road bikes, such as the Aeroad, are equipped with a 3-piece cockpit.
ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR WIDTH
COCKPIT
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 55
The cockpit is composed of a stem body with tops and two handlebar ends.
The right and the left handlebar ends are inserted into the tops and fastened from below with two bolts per side.
This cockpit offers the possibility to adjust the handlebar width as well as the handlebar height.
Loosen, if necessary, the handlebar tape in the area of the stem body of the tops and unwind it a few turns.
The stem body cannot be removed and must be dismounted by dismounted by the Canyon service only. Contact our service hotline, our official service partners or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
When adjusting the cockpit, e.g. when adjusting the handlebar height and handlebar width, when mounting or dismounting the handlebar ends, etc., be sure to observe that the cables are not subjected to high tensile forces. Therefore, proceed with caution when doing this work.
Both handlebar ends can be unscrewed or folded down for transport, for example for transport in the car.
Fully screw out the two Torx screws at the bottom of the stem body on each side of the handlebar.
Now you can move the two handlebar sides carefully without damaging the shift cables and brake hoses running inside.
If it is not possible to pull them out, the cables and hoses may have become caught on the screws of an already mounted cycle computer or GPS device. In this case, carefully unscrew the screws of the cycle computer or GPS device.
You can adjust the handlebar width in 3 positions
(390, 410 und 430 mm). The respective markings are printed on the handlebar sides.
A stepless adjustment is not possible.
Make sure that you adjust the right and left handlebar side to the same marking.
After you have adjusted the handlebar to the desired width, insert the two Torx screws at the bottom of the stem body on each side of the handlebar. Use your fingers to gently turn them in a few turns.
Then, tighten the inner screws respectively first to a torque value of 3 Nm and then the outer screws also to a torque value of 3 Nm.
Subsequently, tighten the inner screws to a torque value of 6 Nm, then the outer screws also to a torque value of 6 Nm.
Do not pull out the handlebar ends beyond the 430 mm-markings! Risk ofbreakage and accident!
Finish by performing the checks described in the chapters “Before your first ride” and “Before every ride” .
If necessary, adjust the handlebar tape to the changed handlebar width.
56 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
COCKPIT
ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR HEIGHT OF THE
AEROAD MODEL
COCKPIT
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 57
Remove the top central rubber cover of the stem body and open the insertion opening for the special tool.
If necessary, lift the stem body and thus also the handlebars upwards. If this is not immediately possible with ease, carefully shake the handlebar and the stem body.
Do not remove the stem body completely from the steerer tube of the fork.
Now you can push the stem body and thus also the handlebar downwards until the stem body lies flush on the remaining spacers or the non-removable bearing race of the headset. To make this easier, hold the fork with the other hand.
The adjustment of the bearing play in the headset is secured by the transition plate.
Then tighten the screw on the rear side of the headset bearing cap to the indicated torque value of 9 Nm. Use the Canyon torque wrench.
Position the handlebar fully to the right or left.
Now you can loosen the screw on the rear side of the headset cap with a 4 mm Allen key.
Unscrew the screws by only one to two turns, but not completely.
For a lower positioning of the handlebar, remove one or more of the two-piece spacers.
Then insert the special tool into the opening on the top of the stem body. You find the special tool in the box with the small parts.
Tighten the inner adjustment slightly with the special tool, i.e. to a torque value of 2 Nm.
This special tool is also used to adjust the bearing play of the headset. For more information see the chapter “The Headset” and your Quick Start Guide.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) while checking the proper seat of the handlebar in between. Do not exceed the indicated maximum torque value!
Unscrew the special tool subsequently. Reposition the top central rubber cover of the stem body.
Perform the check of the bearing play as described in the chapter “The headset” .
This work must be done with the special tool enclosed in the box with the small parts. Do not use any other tools.
Check the secure seat of stem and handlebars after you have adjusted the bearing! A loose handlebar-stems can throw you off your bike!
58 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
COCKPIT
SPECIAL CASE GRAIL CF HANDLEBAR-STEM-
COMBINATION
COCKPIT
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 59
Keep hold of the handlebar-stem-combination and undo the band with Velcro fastener at the top of the stem fixing the handlebars.
Continue to keep hold of the handlebar-stem-combination and make sure it does not twist or drop so that the handlebar-stem-combination or the rest of the bicycle do not get damaged. Undo the band with Velcro fastener fixing the handlebars to the bottom of the fork.
Remove the protective film and the sleeves from the handlebar-stem-combination. It is recommended that you remove the protective material manually on principle. If you do not succeed, use preferably scissors and only if you still do not succeed a box cutter.
Let the handlebar-stem-combination carefully hang down.
There are various spacers for the height adjustment included in the scope of delivery.
On the GRAIL CF model the lower spacers can be replaced by special spacers included in the scope of delivery. You find more information about the GRAIL CF model at www.canyon.com/road/grail/
Position the cap on top and tighten the bolt by using the Canyon torque wrench to a maximum torque value of 2 Nm .
Position the handlebar-stem-combination in the middle. Check the alignment of the handlebar-stem-combination; the handlebars should be at right angle to the front wheel and/or the stem should be in parallel to it.
Prior to adjusting the headset, release this transition plate as well as the steerer tube clamp at the GRAIL cockpit.
Adjusting the headset
Check the headset for play.
Continue by sliding the handlebar-stem-combination on the fork steerer tube. Make sure that the hydraulic lines and the brake cables run above the stem unit, that they are neither twisted nor buckled and that they run at even radii relative to the cable stops or brakes.
Continue by inserting the spacers above or below the stem according to the seating position desired. Make sure that you always assemble all spacers. The spacers can be changed from above to below at any time, but do not leave out one of the spacers.
Tighten the bolts of the aligned GRAIL cockpit to a value of 7.5 Nm by using the Canyon torque wrench.
Some models are equipped with a transition plate serving the purpose of maintaining the set headset play even with the stem or cockpit dismounted.
The transition plate is thus just an assembly aid.
You find tips on how to adjust and check the bearing play of the headset as well as the following safety checks in the chapter “The headset” . Observe the indicated torque value of 1 Nm.
60 ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER
COCKPIT
ALUMINIUM SLEEVE AND CLAMPING WEDGE
ON COCKPITS WITH WEDGE CLAMP
ADJUSTING THE
BRAKE LEVER REACH
With road bikes the clearance between brake levers/shifters and handlebars can be adjusted to a minor degree. This allows riders with small hands to bring the brake levers closer to the handlebars.
The first phalanx of both the index and the middle finger must be able to grip the brake lever. Braking from the top with your hands on the upper end of the brake grips is not an alternative in the long run and in hazardous situations, you need more manual force and cannot support yourself appropriately.
GRAIL CF handlebar-stem combinations and some other models are equipped with a wedge clamp at the stem.
When working on this specific clamp, the following points must therefore be observed.
Under no circumstances, the cockpit should be mounted into the fork steerer tube without the corresponding clamp wedge and the black aluminium sleeve, otherwise the fork steerer tube may sustain damage. You find further information in your Quick Start Guide.
There is also a risk of damaging the carbon fork steerer tube if the torque value of the two cockpit fixing bolts is too high. Therefore, be sure to always use a torque wrench when working on the cockpit. Do not exceed the indicated maximum torque value!
In the case of Shimano’s Dura-Ace unscrew the chrome cover and tighten the screw positioned in the front. In the case of the Ultegra you need special insert pieces. In the case of both Di2 models you reach the screws from the rear, after you have removed the hoods.
In the case of SRAM start by setting the cam disc on the slightly pulled and inward moved shifters.
Screw in the screw positioned behind the hood in the body by using an Allen key.
Campagnolo brake/shift levers are equipped with an axle that can be inserted or removed from the side into or out of the handlebar after having actuated the brake lever. To position the brake lever for riders with smaller hands closer to the handlebar push the axle fully inside.
Tighten the two fastening screws of the cockpit alternately and gradually to the specified torque value.
If necessary, apply carbon assembly paste to the steerer tube.
After you have carried out maintenance or mounting work on the cockpit (e.g. to shorten the fork steerer tube), you have to follow the above-described instructions when remounting it.
Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars. Your maximum brake force must be reached short of this point!
BRAKE LEVER REACH
ADJUSTMENT TO THE RIDER 61
In the case of flat bars there is a small adjusting bolt where the brake cable of a side-pull brake runs into the brake lever unit or on the lever itself.
Finish by checking the correct adjustment and function of the brake system as described in the chapter “The brake system” and/or in the brake manufacturer’s operating instructions.
If you have problems in reaching the grips, contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com. You find more information on time trial handlebars for triathlon and time trial machines in the chapter “Special features of triathlon, time trial machines and track bikes” .
Brake lever reach
Shimano Dura-Ace SRAM
Note that the bolted connections of the stem, handlebars and brakes have to be tightened to the prescribed torque values. You find the prescribed values in the chapter “General notes on care and inspection” or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers. If you disregard the prescribed values, the components may come loose or break.
This can lead to a severe crash.
Adjust the brake lever travel with the knurled nut
62 PEDAL SYSTEMS
THE PEDAL SYSTEMS
Not all shoes are suited for cycling. Shoes used for cycling should have a stiff sole and provide a firm support for your feet. If the soles are too soft, the pedals can press through and cause foot pain.
The sole should be not too broad near the heels, as the rear stays will otherwise get in the way of your pedalling. This will prevent your feet from assuming a natural position and may cause knee pain in the long run.
Step-in pedal
DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AT A GLANCE – HOW THEY
WORK
It is recommended using pedals which provide a lock and release mechanism for your shoe, known as clipless or step-in pedals. The firm connection between shoe and pedal prevents your feet from slipping off when pedalling fast or when riding over rough ground. Besides this, it enables you not only to push but also to pull the pedals, which makes your pedalling more fluent. A further advantage is that the ball of your big toe comes to rest just at the right place on the pedal spindle and that you do not block inadvertently the front wheel with the tips of your feet during steering.
Shoes for step-in pedals
Especially with small frame sizes, there is the risk of your foot colliding with the front wheel. Therefore, be sure to use step-in pedals, if possible. In addition, make sure the cleats are accurately adjusted.
For clipless or step-in pedals you always need special cycling shoes.
Read the operating instructions of the pedal manufacturer or contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
PEDAL SYSTEMS 63
Clipless of step-in pedals come with a special type of cycling shoe which locks onto the pedal similarly to a ski binding. To engage with the pedal is to turn it to the horizontal using the tip of the cleat (the plate on the sole of the shoe) and then rest your foot on it. Most pedals are equipped with a double-sided lock-in mechanism, so that you can step on the pedal with either face up. The shoe engages with a clearly audible and perceptible “click”. Step-in pedals are often called clipless pedals.
The clipless pedal disengages by an outward twisting of the heel
With all commercially available systems the shoe is disengaged from the pedal by twisting the heel outward. Lean against a wall or ask someone to hold you when you try to engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.
Functional differences between the pedal systems concern the shape of the cleat, the release angle and the rigidity of the connection. Cyclists predisposed to knee trouble should choose a pedal system that has some "float", so that the heel can move sideways a little while the shoe is engaged with the pedal.
Some clipless pedals have cleats embedded into the sole which is a great advantage, as it ensures stable walking.
Cleats are recessed in cycling shoe soles
Taking up the pedals, engaging the shoes and disengaging them by turning the heel outward should first be practised while stationary. Later you can refine your technique in a place clear of traffic. Read the operating instructions of the pedal and shoe manufacturers carefully. In case of questions, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
64 PEDAL SYSTEMS
ADJUSTMENT AND MAINTENANCE
Current pedal systems can show considerable differences in design. Nevertheless, there are some general rules for adjustment which apply to all of them:
X
The cleat has to be fastened to the shoe in such a position that the ball of the foot comes to rest on the pedal spindle.
X
Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling. For most people this means that the heels will point inward a little.
Your feet should assume a natural position when pedalling
X
Make sure the fastening bolts are properly tightened, as you will find it almost impossible to disengage your shoe from a loose plate! Risk of a fall!
X
Adjust the required releasing force according to your needs. It is advisable to adopt a low releasing force setting to begin with. Turn the small
Allen bolt and examine the change in releasing force when you engage and disengage the shoe from the pedal.
Adjusting the releasing force of the pedal
X
Exposed springs and other components that attract dirt have to be cleaned and regreased regularly.
X
Squeaking or creaking cleats can often be silenced by applying a little grease to the point of contact between cleat and pedal.
X
Regularly check the cleats for wear. If your shoe wobbles on the pedal, the cleat or the sole of your shoes might be worn.
Make sure pedals and shoe soles are always clear of mud and other impurities and grease the lock-in mechanism with lubricant at regular intervals.
Only use clipless pedals that allow you to engage and disengage smoothly. A defective pedal or a badly worn cleat can lead to an accident by causing the shoe to come off by itself or making it harder to release.
BRAKE SYSTEM 65
THE BRAKE SYSTEM
In general the brakes of your Canyon are necessary to adjust your speed to the traffic situation.
However, in an emergency the brakes must be able to bring your Canyon to a halt as quickly as possible. Such emergency stops are also a study in physics. In the process of braking, the rider’s weight shifts forward, thus reducing the load on the rear wheel. The rate of deceleration on a dry ground with grip is primarily limited by the danger of overturning and only in the second place by the road grip of the tyres. This problem becomes particularly acute when riding downhill. In the event of an emergency stop you have to try to put your weight back as far as possible.
Actuate both brakes simultaneously and bear in mind that, due to the weight transfer, the front brakes can generate a far better braking effect on a surface with good grip. The assignment of brake lever to the brake bodies, e.g. left lever acts on front brake, can vary. Have the brakes changed, as you want them, before your first ride.
With rim brakes long lasting braking or permanent dragging of the brake pads can overheat the rim.
This can affect the inner tube negatively or cause the tyre to slip on the inner rim. Sudden loss of pressure while cycling can result in a serious accident.
With disc brakes prolonged braking or permanent dragging of brake pads can overheat the brake system. This can result in a loss of braking power, even to the point of total brake failure, provoking serious accidents.
Therefore, check your riding manners and make it a habit to brake hard and then to open the brake again, whenever the road surface and the situation allows it. It is better to stop for a moment and let the rim cool down rather than to risk anything.
Brake lever
Brake calliper
Braking leads to a forward shifting of the rider’s weight
Be careful while getting used to the brakes. Practise emergency stops in a place clear of traffic until you have perfect command of your Canyon. This can save you from having accidents.
Wet weather reduces your braking power. Be aware of longer stopping distances when riding in the rain!
66 BRAKE SYSTEM
RIM BRAKES
ROAD BIKE RIM BRAKES
Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface generating friction. The resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather. The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rims! Frequent rides in the rain hasten wear on both engaging surfaces.
Rims are provided with wear indicators, i.e. grooves or circular indentations. If the rim is worn down to the point where the grooves or indentations are no longer visible, they need to be replaced. Once the abrasion of the rim has reached a certain critical point, the rim may break under the tyre pressure.
This can make the wheel jam or the inner tube burst. Risk of a fall!
We advise you to have the remaining thickness of the rims checked at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads.
Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom brake pad) must be replaced
Have your rims regularly inspected and measured
When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use original brake pads matching your rim.
Ensure that braking surfaces are absolutely free of wax, grease and oil. Ask a skilled mechanic to examine the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads. Worn down rims may make the inner tube burst, thus leading to a crash! In order to maintain their effectiveness brakes need to be checked and readjusted from time to time.
Carbon rims require special brake pads according to the instructions of the wheel manufacturer
Damaged brake cables that are for example frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail, possibly causing a fall.
RIM BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM 67
Checking and readjusting
With side-pull brakes the brake arms are suspended from a common point, thus forming an integral system. When actuating the brake lever, both arms are tightened by the cable, the pads touch the rim.
Checking the brake system
X
Check whether the brake pads are accurately aligned with the rims and still sufficiently thick
(see the chapter “The brake system” ).
The rim pad must hit the rim accurately
X
Do both brake arms contact the rim simultaneously when actuating the brake levers? Do you get a clear-cut braking response when you pull the brake lever hard, and does the lever remain clear of the handlebars no matter how hard you pull?
An accurate adjustment of the brake is achieved, when your brake system has passed on all of the above points.
Vertical adjustment of the brake pads
X
Release the fastening bolt of the brake pad by one to two complete turns at the most.
X
Push the brake pad to the correct height and align it according to the rim before re-tightening the fastening bolt to the specified torque.
To adjust the height of the brake pads tighten the bolt to the prescribed torque
Manufacturers of brakes deliver their products with detailed operating instructions. Be sure to read these operating instructions carefully before you dismount a wheel or do any maintenance work.
When replacing any parts be sure to only use original spare parts!
Always test the brakes’ function while stationary after adjusting them. Make sure the brake pads engage fully with the rim when you pull them hard without touching the tyre. Furthermore you should not be able to pull the brake levers all the way to the handlebars. Otherwise the brake might fail or the tyre sustain damage, thus causing an accident.
68 BRAKE SYSTEM
RIM BRAKES
Readjusting and synchronising
X
With dual pivot brakes, turn the small (headless) screw, located at the side or on top of the calliper, until the left and right brake pad are at the same distance from the rim.
X
Furthermore, check whether the bolt connecting the brake to the frame is still tightened to the prescribed torque value, as specified in the chapter “Recommended torque values” .
Screw this small bolt until the clearance between brake pad and rim is the same on either side
X
Turn the knurled nut through which the brake cable passes at the brake body until the travel of the brake lever suits your needs. To synchronise the brake, turn the little bolt on the side of the brake arm or the other bolt in the top area on the other side.
Turn the knurled nut to adjust the necessary brake lever travel
Damaged brake cables that are for example frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail, possibly causing a fall.
able degree of skill. Replacing and adjusting the brake pads is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Adjusting the position of the brake pads relative to the rims requires a consider-
DISC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM 69
HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES
Brakes – how they work and what to do about wear
Actuating the hand lever on the handlebar causes a stationary brake pad to be pressed against a rotating braking surface generating friction. The resulting friction slows down the wheel. The rate of deceleration is not only determined by the force with which the brake pad is pressed against the braking surface, but also to a decisive degree by the coefficient of friction, which depends on the two materials that are rubbed against each other.
In the wet, disc brakes respond much faster than rim brakes. They also require fairly little maintenance and do not wear down the rims as rim brakes do. One drawback of disc brakes is that they tend to be noisy when they are wet.
Disc brake
When water, dirt or oil gets in contact with one of the engaging surfaces, this changes the coefficient of friction. This is why disc brakes respond at a slight delay and less powerfully in wet weather.
The friction generated by braking causes wear to the brake pads as well as to the rotor! Frequent rides in the rain hasten wear on both engaging surfaces.
Disc brake
Make sure that the rotors and brake pads remain absolutely free of wax, grease and lubricant. Brake pads, once contaminated with oil cannot be cleaned, but have to be replaced!
Wet conditions and/or a heavily clogged brake can lead to squeaking noises during braking.
When replacing brake pads, be sure to only use marked original spare parts matching your brake.
Leakages in the hoses of hydraulic brakes may render them ineffective. Remove such leakages immediately, otherwise risk of accident!
Damaged cables should be replaced immediately, as otherwise they can tear.
Risk of accident!
Disc brakes are susceptible to overheating during braking. Therefore, do not touch the disc or brake caliper after extensive usage of your brake, e.g. after riding downhill.
70 BRAKE SYSTEM
DISC BRAKES
Adjusting the brake lever reach
With disc brakes the brake levers can be adjusted to the size of your hands, too, allowing you to operate them with optimal effectiveness. In most cases this is done by means of a small Allen bolt located directly at the hand lever.
After adjusting check the functioning and make sure the brake pads do not drag when releasing the brake lever and spinning the wheel.
Brake lever reach
Brake lever flat bar
DISC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM 71
Checking and readjusting
Regularly check the lines and connections for leaks while pulling on the lever. If hydraulic oil or brake fluid leaks out, you should take appropriate measures immediately, as a leak can render your brakes ineffective. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline necessary or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
A leak in the brake lines can render the brake ineffective. Risk of accident!
Wear control of the brake pads
Most of the brake models are equipped with a mechanism which automatically compensates for the wear. Before every ride, check whether you get a clear-cut braking response before the lever touches the handlebars.
Check at regular intervals, whether the brake pads are still sufficiently thick. The wear of the pads can be checked by means of the thickness of the braking material attached to the backing plate within the brake caliper or by viewing through the window on the upper side of the caliper. If there is approximately 1 mm of material left on each brake pad, remove the pads according to the manufacturer’s operating instructions, check them thoroughly and replace them, if necessary.
Repeated readjustment at the brake lever or brake caliper only can drastically reduce the maximum braking performance.
Damaged brake cables that are for example frayed should be replaced immediately, as they can otherwise fail, possibly causing a fall.
In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting the brakes.
New brake pads need a break-in period before they reach their optimal braking performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to a halt each time.
Some systems must be readjusted directly at the brake caliper to compensate wear. For more information read the brake manufacturer's operating instructions.
If your brake system works with DOT brake fluid, the latter needs to be replaced regularly according to the intervals prescribed by the manufacturer.
Do not open the brake lines. Brake fluid that can be very unhealthy and damaging to the paint could leak out.
Loose connections and leaky hoses drastically impair braking power. If there are any leakages in the system or bent hoses, contact an expert or our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com.
Risk of accident!
72 BRAKE SYSTEM
DISC BRAKES
The brake models of some manufacturers include transport locks with cut-outs. The brake pads of these brakes must be replaced as soon as they fit into these cut-outs.
Only use original replacement pads and follow the operating instructions of the brake manufacturers.
If you have the slightest doubt, leave this job to a skilled mechanic.
Brake pads
New brake pads need a break-in period before they reach their optimal braking performance. Accelerate your Canyon 30 to 50 times to around 30 km/h (18 mph) and bring it to a halt each time.
Also observe the information given on the website of your brake manufacturer.
With the wheels dismounted, do not actuate the brake levers. This would cause the brake pads to be pushed together, making it difficult to remount the wheel. Mount the enclosed transport locks after dismounting the wheels.
Do not transport your Canyon with the saddle and the handlebars upside down
– risk of brake failure.
In any case, be sure to read the original instructions of the brake manufacturer before adjusting the brakes.
GEARS 73
THE GEARS
The gears on your Canyon serve to adjust your own performance to the terrain and the desired speed. The physical work to be done is not reduced by the gears, as it remains always the same for the same distance and speed. What changes, however, is the pedalling force per crank rotation.
In other words: A low gear allows you to climb steep hills with moderate pedalling force. You have to increase, however, your cadence.
Derailleur gears
Downhill you switch to a high gear. Every turn of the pedals takes you many metres forward at correspondingly high speed. To ride economically you frequently have to switch gears. As with a motor vehicle, your "engine” wants to be kept within a certain speed range, if it is to give its best performance.
On level ground your pedalling speed, also referred to as cadence, should be higher than 60 strokes a minute. Racing cyclists pedal at a rate between 90 and 110 strokes a minute on level ground. When climbing uphill, your cadence will naturally fall off somewhat. Your pedalling should always remain fluent, however. Finely graduated adjustments as well as an easy operability of modern bike gears are the best preconditions for an efficient riding.
In addition, it reduces chain and sprocket wear as well as the strain on your knee joints.
Rear derailleur
Derailleur gears are the most effective type of transmission on bikes. About 97 to 98 percent of the pedalling force performed is transmitted to the rear wheel with well-maintained and greased derailleur gears. The control of the gear system as well as the braking performance leave nothing to be desired.
Front derailleur
With specially designed sprocket teeth, flexible chains and clearcut lever positions, shifting gears has become very easy.
Always wear straight-cut trousers or use trouser clips or the like. This is to make sure your trousers do not get caught in the chain or the chainrings, which would result in a fall.
74 GEARS
HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USE THEM
THE GEARS – HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO
USE THEM
With road bikes the shift levers are integrated in the brake lever. With Campagnolo the lever behind the brake lever is used to shift to the larger sprockets by pivoting the small lever inwards with the index or the middle finger. Pressing with your thumb on the shifter located on the inward facing side of the brake lever mount, moves the chain towards the next smaller sprocket.
With Shimano levers swivelling the entire brake lever inward shifts the chain towards the larger sprockets. Pressing only the small lever inward makes the chain move towards the smaller sprockets.
Campagnolo shift/brake lever
With SRAM doubletap levers there is only one shifting lever positioned behind the brake lever.
A short tap to the inward moves the chain to a smaller sprocket. Sweeping the shifting lever more in means the derailleur shifts the chain to larger sprockets. One tap can shift up to three gears.
Shimano shift/brake lever
With Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo bar end shifters for triathlon and time trial use the shifting lever is pressed downward to move the chain to the smaller sprockets to achieve a higher gear and to the smaller chainrings to achieve a lower gear. By pulling the shifting lever upward you can switch to the larger sprockets and larger chainrings.
SRAM shift/brake lever
In the case of flat bars the control levers of the shifters are positioned under the handlebars. The big lever on the right is thumb-operated. The chain moves on larger sprockets, i.e. to lower gears. The smaller lever is either index finger or thumb-operated and shifts into the other direction. On the left side the big thumb-operated lever shifts to the large chainring, i.e. to a higher gear ratio.
Bar end shift lever
Shifter flat bar
HOW THEY WORK AND HOW TO USE THEM
GEARS 75
The shifting of a gear lever is communicated to the rear derailleur via bowden cable. Then the rear derailleur swivels, causing the chain to climb onto the next sprocket. It is therefore important when changing gears to continue pedalling smoothly without too much force as long as the chain moves between the sprockets!
There are, however, special guides in the chainrings which allow for changing gears under force.
Changing gears under load shortens, however, the service life of your chain considerably. Therefore, avoid changing gears while pedalling with force, in particular when changing gears with the front derailleur.
Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the smallest chainring and the outmost sprocket
Canyon road can have up to 24 gears. With derailleur gears the bikes are equipped with one or two chainrings at the front crank and have a maximum of twelve sprockets at the rear hub. Some gears with particular chain run should be avoided.
Gears with an extremely oblique run of the chain enhance a higher inner friction, which reduces the power transmission efficiency and hastens wear of the chain.
An unfavourable run of the chain is when the smallest chainring (front derailleur) is used with one of the two or three outermost (smallest) sprockets (rear derailleur) or when the largest chainring is used with one of the inmost (largest) sprockets.
Unfavourable run of the chain – chain on the biggest chainring and the largest sprocket
Practise gear shifting in a place free of traffic. Make yourself familiar with the functioning of the different levers or knobs. If you do so in road traffic, your attention might be drawn off from possible risks.
Keep on pedalling without force during gear shifting. This ensures precise gear shifting, prevents noises and reduces wear.
If your road bike is equipped with an electronic shifting system Di2 from
Shimano, also read the chapter “Shimano Di2” .
Avoid gears which involve an extremely oblique run of the chain.
Do not shift under load, as this will shorten the durability of the chain considerably. Furthermore, this can lead to a chain-suck, i.e. the chain can get jammed between chainstay and chainrings. Avoid shifting gears while pedalling with force, in particular when shifting with the front derailleur.
76 GEARS
CHECKING AND READJUSTING
CHECKING AND READJUSTING THE GEARS
The derailleur gears were thoroughly adjusted by the Canyon team before delivery of your Canyon.
The bowden cables may, however, give way on the first kilometres making gear changing imprecise.
This will result in the chain not wanting to climb onto the next larger sprocket.
REAR DERAILLEUR
X
With road bikes the adjustment is carried out by turning the adjusting bolts at the right cable stop on the down tube. There is another adjusting bolt directly at the rear derailleur.
Retightening the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt of the rear derailleur
X
Increase the tension of the bowden cable by turning the adjusting bolt through which it passes at the entry to the shift lever or rear derailleur.
X
After tensioning the bowden cable check whether the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket. To do this you either have to turn by hand the cranks or ride your Canyon.
Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check whether the pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of the adequate sprocket
X
If the chain readily climbs onto the next larger sprocket, check whether it also readily shifts to the small sprockets when you change to a higher gear. You may need several tries to get the derailleur system properly adjusted.
X
On road bikes, shift levers can usually not be adjusted on the lever itself. There are however adjustable limit stops on the down tube or directly on the rear/front derailleur. Unscrew the bolts that engage easily in half turns.
If you want to try adjusting it yourself, be sure to read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you have problems with the gears, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Adjusting the front and rear derailleur accurately is a job for an experienced mechanic.
Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the function.
CHECKING AND READJUSTING
GEARS 77
ADJUSTMENT OF LIMIT STOPS
The rear derailleur is equipped with limit screws which limit the swivel range of the rear derailleur, thus preventing the rear derailleur and chain from colliding with the spokes or the chain from dropping off the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do not change their position during normal use.
If your Canyon topples over, the rear derailleur or its attachment might get bent. You should therefore check the swivel range after any incident or when mounting other wheels onto your Canyon.
Reduce the swivel range of the rear derailleur with the limit screws
X
Shift the gear lever to the highest gear (smallest sprocket). The inner cable is then totally relaxed and the chain will automatically run on the smallest sprocket. Look from the rear at the rear gear cluster and check, whether the pulleys are perfectly aligned with the teeth of this sprocket.
X
If this is not the case, you have to adjust the position by means of the limit screw. The limit screws on rear derailleurs are often marked “H” for high gear and “L” for low gear. In this case high gear stands for high transmission ratio, i.e. with the chain running on the smallest sprocket.
Check whether the rear derailleur remains clear of the spokes
X
If the screws are not marked, you will have to find out by trial and error. Turn one of the screws counting the number of turns and watch the rear derailleur. If it does not move, you are just about to turn the wrong screw. Turn the bolt back to its original position.
X
Turn the screw clockwise to shift the rear derailleur towards the wheel and anticlockwise to shift it away from the wheel.
Limit screws
X
Change gears to the biggest sprocket. Be careful as you do so, as not to let the rear derailleur collide with the spokes. When the chain runs on the biggest sprocket, see whether you can take the rear derailleur even further by moving the shift lever to the end of its travel. Then press the rear derailleur further towards the spokes by hand. Spin the wheel.
Improperly adjusted limit stops or a bent rear derailleur mount can result in a severe damage to the bicycle and a rear wheel blocking. Risk of accident!
78 GEARS
CHECKING AND READJUSTING
X
If the pulley cage touches the spokes or if the chain begins to move beyond the largest sprocket, you should reduce the swivel range. Turn the screw marked “L“, until you are absolutely sure the rear derailleur does not collide with the spokes.
X
Check the position of the pulley cage towards the sprocket. The gap between pulley and the largest sprocket should leave a clearance of one to two links at least.
To adjust the clearance between pulley cage and sprocket, turn the bolt located at the front side of the drop-out
X
The rear derailleur is equipped with a bolt located at the drop-out front which serves the purpose of adjusting this clearance. Screw in this bolt until the clearance is as desired. Turn the cranks backwards for checking purposes. The pulley should not touch the sprocket during this movement, as well.
X
In case the clearance still does not suffice, changing gears being thus impeded, you have to shorten the chain by one link. This means an increased tension on the rear derailleur. It must, however, be ensured that the chain can run on the largest chainring as well as on the largest sprocket. Due to the extremely oblique run of the chain, this gear should however be avoided.
CHECKING AND READJUSTING
GEARS 79
FRONT DERAILLEUR
Adjusting the front derailleur requires a great deal of experience. The range within which the front derailleur keeps the chain on the chainring without itself touching the chain is very small.
It is often better to let the chain drag slightly on the derailleur than to risk having the chain fall off the chainwheel, which would interrupt the power train of your Canyon.
As with the rear derailleur, the cable of the front derailleur is subject to lengthening and hence to reduced precision in gear changing.
Retightening of the bowden cable at the adjusting bolt on the frame
X
Increase the tension of the cable by turning the adjusting bolt at the down tube of the frame.
This works mainly, as described in the section
“Checking and readjusting the gears” .
X
Reduce the swivel range of the front derailleur with the limit screws.
Adjusting the swivel range of the front derailleur
If the bicycle toppled over or the rear derailleur was hit by an impact there is the risk that the rear derailleur or the derailleur hanger is bent and consequently reaching into the spokes. Check the position of the derailleur hanger after such incidents. If another rear wheel was mounted, yoiu should also check the swivel range and readjust the limit screws, if necessary.
Ask a helper to lift the rear wheel. By turning the cranks and shifting through you can easily check the function.
Be sure to go on a test ride in a place free of traffic, after adjusting the gears of your bicycle.
The initial adjustment of the front and rear derailleur is a job for an experienced mechanic. Maldadjustments may cause severe mechanical damage. For more information be sure to read the operating instructions of the gear manufacturer. If you have problems with the gears, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Adjusting the front derailleur is a delicate job. Improper adjustment can cause the chain to jump off, thus interrupting the power train. Risk of a fall! Adjusting the front derailleur is a job for professionals.
After having adjusted the gears and the chain it is essential to take your Canyon for a test ride in a level, unfrequented area (e.g. in a parking lot)! If the adjustments turn out to be improper when riding in road traffic, you may lose control over your Canyon!
Always check after an accident whether the guide plates of the front derailleur are still parallel to the chainrings!
80 GEARS
SHIMANO Di2
SHIMANO Di2
The Di2 is the electronic version of the high-quality shifting groupsets from Shimano. Instead of cables the signal is transmitted by wires. The rear and the front derailleurs are moved by small electrical motors. In case the chain runs too oblique, the Di2 front derailleur is even readjusted automatically to avoid grinding noises and unnecessary wear.
The power supply is provided by a rechargeable battery that is mounted in the frame.
Control
Di2 front derailleur
With the Di2 you no longer have to move inwards the entire brake lever or the lever of the conventional Dual Control shift lever from Shimano, but only to gently push control buttons. Shifting with the oblong control button on the side of the brake lever shifts to the larger chainrings/sprockets. Pushing the triangular control button that is located behind the brake lever makes the chain move to the smaller chainrings/sprockets.
Rear derailleur
There is also the option to have the control button function changed. This can be done with a specific test device from Shimano which is also used for troubleshooting. Contact, if necessary, our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Before using your new Di2 shifting system, be sure to do a test ride in an area free of traffic.
Be sure to read the enclosed operating instructions of the gear manufacturer.
SHIMANO Di2 GEARS
81
Battery
A new, fully charged battery allows you to ride approx. 1,000 km (620 miles). An about 25 % charged battery still runs approx. 250 km (150 miles).
With a weak battery the front derailleur is the first component to stop working, followed by the rear derailleur. In this condition you can still ride some more kilometres and shift with the rear derailleur.
The battery should, however, be recharged as soon as possible. When the battery is empty, the rear derailleur remains in the previously chosen gear.
Shifting into another gear is impossible from that moment on!
You can check the battery’s state of charge at any time. Push one of the shift switches and hold it
0.5 seconds at least. The LED on the control unit indicates the state of charge:
Di2 battery
X green light is on for about 2 seconds: battery’s state of charge 100 %
X green light blinks 5 times: battery’s state of charge about 50 %
X red light is on for about 2 seconds: battery’s state of charge about 25 %
X red light blinks 5 times: battery’s state of charge empty
Over time, the capacity of the battery will degrade and so will the distance you will be able to ride.
This process is inevitable. When the achievable distance you are able to ride no longer meets your requirements, you must replace the battery.
The Di2 battery can also be mounted hidden in the down tube provided on the websites of the manufacturers and/or in the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers.
tery!
Information about the SRAM RED e-tap and Campagnolo EPS gear systems are
Recharge the battery only with the charger delivered together with the bat-
Keep a nearly charged battery (50 % or more) that is not used for a longer period of time in a dry, cool place and out of the reach of children. After six month at the latest you should check the state of charge. Mount the protective cover on the battery’s contact area prior to storage.
Recharging the (empty) battery will take about 1.5 hours.
82 GEARS
SRAM ETAP/AXS ROAD
SRAM ETAP/AXS ROAD
With SRAM eTAP/AXS Road, you shift the gears on the rear derailleur by actuating one of the buttons on each shift/brake lever. Whether the left or the right button shifts a lighter or heavier gear is freely configurable with the AXS Road. With one of the buttons pressed, the gears on the rear derailleur continue to change until the button is released again. If both buttons are pressed at the same time, the front derailleur, if present, changes to the other chainring.
SRAM eTap/AXS Road
With the SRAM AXS app a wide range of individual settings can be made on the gear system.
You find more information at www.sram.com
CAMPAGNOLO EPS
GEARS 83
CAMPAGNOLO EPS
Control
With the shift/brake levers of the Campagnolo EPS groupset you can only perform one action at a time with each lever of the controls.
With the Campagnolo EPS you shift to the larger chainrings or sprockets with the lever located behind the brake lever by swivelling it inwards with your index or middle finger.
CAMPAGNOLO EPS
If you press the button inside the control with your thumb, the chain is moved to the smaller chainrings or sprockets. You can shift two chainrings or three sprockets per action at a maximum.
Rechargeable battery
The battery (power unit) can be mounted in the seat, top and down tube as well as on the left chainstay.
With a new, fully charged battery you can ride approx. 1,500 to 2,500 km (930 to 1,500 miles).
CAMPAGNOLO EPS
The battery has no memory effect. Therefore, you can always recharge the battery and do not have to run it completely empty beforehand. Pressing the mode button on your Ergopower lever activates the battery indicator on the interface. This allows you to check the battery's state of charge at any time. The indicator light shows the remaining capacity:
X constant green light: 100–60 % remaining capacity
X blinking green light: 60–40 % remaining capacity
X yellow: 40–20 % remaining capacity
X constant red light: 20–6 % remaining capacity
X blinking red light: 6–0 % remaining capacity
Insert the magnetic pin into the battery when screwing on your Canyon road bike with Campy EPS or when parking your
Canyon road bike to switch off the entire electrics.
Be sure to only use the supplied charger to recharge the battery!
For a long service life of the battery, it is best to store it away at a state of charge of about 60 % during the winter months. Do not let the state of charge fall below 6 %, otherwise there is a risk of a harmful deep discharge. Therefore, check the state of charge after three months at the latest.
84 GEARS
CHAIN
CHAIN MAINTENANCE
It still holds true that proper lubrication makes for enjoyable riding. What counts is, however, not the quantity, but the distribution and regular application of lubricant.
X
Clean your chain from dirt and lubricant with an oily rag from time to time. There is no need to use special degreasers.
X
Having cleaned the chain as thoroughly as possible, apply chain oil, wax or grease to the chain links.
X
To lubricate the chain, drip the lubricant onto the rollers while you turn the crank.
Clean the chain from dirt and oil with a rag
X
Subsequently, pedal through several chain lengths. Let your Canyon then rest for a few minutes so that the lubricant can disperse.
X
Finally rub off excess lubricant with a rag so that it does not spatter around or attract dirt during riding.
Clean the chain as thoroughly as possible and apply lubricant
CHAIN WEAR
Although the chain is one of the wearing components of your Canyon, there are still ways of influencing its service life. Make sure the chain is lubricated regularly, especially after riding in the rain. Try to only use gears which allow a more or less straight run of the chain. Get in the habit of pedalling at a high cadence (more than 60 to 70 strokes/minute).
Check of chain condition
With road bikes chains running on derailleur gears are worn out after about 1,200 to 4,000 km (740 to
2,500 miles). Heavily stretched chains impair the operation of derailleur gears. Cycling with a wornout chain also accelerates the wear of the sprockets and chainrings. Replacing these components is relatively expensive compared with the costs of a new chain. It is therefore advisable to check the condition of the chain at regular intervals.
For this purpose run the chain on the large chainring. Take the chain between your thumb and index finger and try to lift it off the teeth. If you can lift it off clearly, it is severely lengthened and has to be replaced.
There are accurate measuring instruments for precise chain inspection. The chain should be replaced by an expert. Chains are endless and therefore require special tools. If you have questions, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Professional wear measurement
CHAIN
GEARS 85
mind that some of the lubricant will always end up on the ground, especially in wet conditions.
For the sake of the environment, only use biodegradable lubricants. Bear in
Make sure that the brake discs, the braking surfaces of the rims or the brake pads remain clear of lubricants. Otherwise, the brakes will fail!
A poorly riveted chain can break and cause a fall. Let your chain be replaced by an experienced mechanic.
86 WHEELS
TYRES AND INNER TUBES
THE WHEELS– TYRES,
INNER TUBES AND
AIR PRESSURE
The wheels of your Canyon create the contact to the road or track you are riding on. They are subject to considerable stress through the weight of rider and luggage as well as through bumpy road surfaces or ground. Although wheels are manufactured with great care and delivered accurately trued, this does not prevent the spokes and nipples from losing a little tension on the first kilometres. For this reason it may be that the wheels must be trued up as early as after you have run them in over about 100 to 300 kilometres (60 to
180 miles). Check the wheels regularly after you have run them in. It will rarely be necessary to tighten the spokes.
Wheel
A wheel is composed of a hub, the rim and the spokes. The tyre is mounted onto the rim so that it encases the inner tube. There is a rim tape running around the base of the rim to protect the sensitive inner tube against the spoke nipples and the edges of the rim base, which are often sharp.
Tyre size
If you want to replace a tyre, you need to consider the actual size of the old tyre. It is marked on the side of the tyre. There are two designations, the more precise of which uses millimetres. The number sequence 23-622 means that the tyre is
23 mm wide when fully inflated and that it has an inner diameter of 622 millimetres. By choosing a bigger tyre you risk that the tyre drags along the fork or the rear frame. Therefore, please mount a tyre of identical dimension.
Rim tape in the rim
If you mount a new tyre with another size than the standard tyre mounted, it might be possible that the clearance between the front of your shoe and the wheel will be reduced when you ride at reduced speed. Risk of accident!
TYRES AND INNER TUBES
WHEELS 87
Tyres have to be inflated to the correct air pressure in order to work properly. Adequately inflated tyres are also more resistant to flats. An insufficiently inflated inner tube can easily get pinched
("snake-bitten”), when it goes over a sharp kerb.
The air pressure recommended by the manufacturer is given on the side of the tyre or on the type label. The lower of the two pressure specifications makes for better cushioning and is therefore best for cycling on a rough surface. Rolling resistance decreases with increasing pressure, but so does comfort. A high tyre pressure is therefore most suitable for riding on tarred roads.
Inflation pressure is often given in the old system of units, i.e. in psi (pounds per square inch). The table gives the most common pressure values in terms of three systems.
Race or Sclaverand valve
The tyre and rim alone are not able to hold the air.
Exception: tubular tyres on road bikes). Therefore, an inner tube has to be placed inside the tyre to retain the air pressure. The tube is pumped up via a valve. Canyon bikes are equipped with Sclaverand or race valves. This type of valve is designed for highest pressures, but you need getting used to its handling. This valve is provided with a plastic cap to protect it from dirt.
Tyre pressure range psi
80
85
90
95
100
105
110
Air pressure in psi and bar bar
5.5
5.9
6.2
6.6
6.9
7.2
7.6
psi
115
120
125
130
135
140
145 bar
7.9
8.3
8.6
9.0
9.3
9.7
10.0
If your road bike has tubeless tyres, only use the tools of the respective manufacturer for the mounting. For more details, read the manuals of the tyre manufacturers or the instructions on their websites.
Riding with too low air pressure may make the tyre come off the rim.
Tyres allowing an inflation pressure of five bars or more have to be mounted on hook bead rims.
Make sure not to exceed the maximum permissible pressure when inflating your tyre! Otherwise it might burst or come off the rim during the ride. Risk of a fall!
88 WHEELS
TYRES AND INNER TUBES
Observe the different diameters and lengths of the valves. Only use inner tubes with valves matching the rim. Using a wrong valve may cause a sudden loss of air pressure and hence throw you off your bike.
With this valve type it may happen that the valve body is not screwed in properly and that air leaks out slowly. Check the seat of the valve body in its stem.
Unscrewing the plastic cap
Hand pumps are often unsuitable for inflating tyres to high pressure. A better choice is a stand pump equipped with a manometer which enables you to check the pressure at home. There are adapters for all types of valves which allow you to inflate a Sclaverand valve at the filling station.
With race or Sclaverand valves the valve must be unscrewed
With Sclaverand valves you first have to undo the small knurled nut a little and press it in carefully until air starts to escape.
Always ride your bicycle with the prescribed tyre pressure and check the pressure at regular intervals, at least once a week.
Make sure the valve diameter matches the hole in the rim and the valve is always in upright position!
Replace tyres with a worn tread or brittle or frayed sides. Dampness and dirt penetrating the tyre can cause damage to its inner structure.
Valve adapter
Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
Exception: With Mavic system wheels you do not need rim tapes.
In the extreme case damage to the tyre may make the inner tube suddenly burst, throwing you off your bike!
RIMS AND SPOKES
WHEELS 89
RIM TRUENESS,
SPOKE TENSION
The spokes connect the rim to the hub in the middle of the wheel. An even spoke tension makes for the true running of the wheel. If the tension of individual spokes changes, e.g. as a result of riding too fast over a kerb or due to spoke breakage, the tensile forces acting on the rim become unbalanced and the wheel will no longer run true.
The functioning of your Canyon may even be impaired before you notice the untrue wheel by its wobbling. With rim brakes the sides of the rims also serve as braking surfaces. An untrue wheel can impair your braking power.
Check of wheel trueness with brake pads
Truing stand
Loose spokes must be tightened at once. Otherwise the load on the other spokes and the rim will increase.
expert!
Truing (retruing) wheels is a difficult job which you should definitely leave to an
Do not ride with untrue wheels. In the case of extreme side-to-side wobbles the brake pads of road bike brakes can miss the rim and get caught in the spokes! This normally results in an immediate blocking of the wheels. Risk of a fall! It is therefore advisable to check the wheels for trueness from time to time. For this purpose lift the wheel from the ground and spin it with your hand. Observe the gap between the rim and the brake pads or between the frame and the tyre. If the gap varies by more than a millimetre, you should ask a skilled mechanic to true up the wheel.
90 WHEELS
PUNCTURE
REPAIRING
PUNCTURES
Tyre punctures can happen to any cyclist. As long as you have the necessary tools for changing tyres and tubes and a spare tube or a tyre repair kit, this need not mean the end of your cycle tour, however. For bikes with quick-releases or thru axles you only need two tyre levers and a pump to change the tube; if your wheels are fastened with nuts or an anti-theft lock you also need a suitable wrench.
Shift to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel
WHEEL REMOVAL
X
Witn road bike rim brakes, open the quick-release lever at the brake (Shimano and SRAM)
X or shift the pin in the shift/brake lever unit at the handlebars (Campagnolo).
X
If you have derailleur gears, you should shift the chain to the smallest sprocket before removing the rear wheel. This shifts the rear derailleur right to the outside where it does not interfere with the removal of the wheel.
Opening the release lever at the brake
X
Open the quick-release or the thru axle, as described in the chapter “How to use quick-releases and thru axles” . If you cannot remove the wheel after releasing the lever or nut, it is probably still being held in place by drop-out catches. They come as projections which jut into the droup-outs. In these cases, just release the quick-release adjusting nut by a few turns and slip the wheel past the catch.
Drop-out catches at the fork
X
You will find it easier to remove the rear wheel, if you pull the rear derailleur rearwards a little.
X
Lift your Canyon a little off the ground and give the wheel a light blow with your hand so that it drops out.
To remove the rear wheel pull the rear derailleur slightly to the rear
PUNCTURE
WHEELS 91
REMOVING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES
X
Screw the valve cap and the fastening nut off the valve and deflate the tyre completely.
X
Press the tyre from the rim side towards the centre of the rim. You will find it easier to remove the tyre, if you do this around its entire circumference.
X
Apply the plastic tyre lever to one bead of the tyre about 5 cm left or right from the valve and lever the tyre out of the rim. Hold the tyre lever tight in its position.
Press the tyre towards the centre of the rim
X
Slip the second tyre lever between rim and tyre at a point about ten centimetres beyond the first one and lever the next portion of the bead over the edge of the rim.
X
After levering a part of the tyre bead over the edge of the rim you should normally be able to slip off the whole tyre on one side by moving the tyre lever around the whole circumference.
Apply the tyre levers and lift the tyre bead over the rim edge
X
Now you can pull out the inner tube. Take care the valve does not get caught, as this can damage the inner tube.
X
Repair the puncture according to the operating instructions of the repair kit manufacturer.
Remove the inner tube from the tyre
If the fabric of the tyre is destroyed by the perforating object, replace the tyre as a precaution.
Observe the operating instructions of the brake and the gear manufacturer enclosed with the BikeGuard.
92 WHEELS
PUNCTURE
X
After having removed the tyre, you should check the rim tape. The tape should lie squarely in the base of the rim covering all spoke ends and should neither be torn nor brittle. In the case of rims with double base – known as double chamber rims – the tape must cover the entire rim base. For this type of rim only use rim tapes made of fabric or durable plastic. Exception:
With Mavic system wheels you do not need rim tapes. If you are in doubt with regard to your rim tape, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Rim tape in the rim
X
If necessary, you can remove the whole tyre by pulling the other tyre bead off the rim.
MOUNTING CLINCHER AND FOLDING TYRES
When mounting a tyre, make sure no foreign object, such as dirt or sand, gets inside the tyre and you do not damage the inner tube in the process.
X
Slip one bead of the tyre onto the rim. Using your thumbs, press the bead over the edge of the rim over the entire circumference. You should be able to do this without any tools, regardless of the type of tyre. Stick the valve of the tube through the hole in the rim.
Put he valve into the rim hole
X
Inflate the tube slightly so that it becomes round and push it into the tyre all the way round. Make sure not to leave any folds in the tube.
X
To finish mounting the tyre start at the point opposite the valve. Using your thumbs, press the second bead of the tyre over the edge of the rim as far as you can.
X
Make sure the inner tube does not get pinched and squashed between tyre and rim. This is prevented by pushing the inner tube into the tyre hollow with a finger as you work along.
Press the tyre with your hand onto the rim
Replace spoilt rim tapes immediately.
PUNCTURE
WHEELS 93
X
Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both sides. Towards the end you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part of the rim base. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
X
Check again the proper seat of the inner tube inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of the rim by using the balls of your thumb.
X
If this does not work, you will have to use tyre levers. Make sure the blunt ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.
Press the tyre to make sure the tube does not get caught between rim and tyre beads
X
Press the valve deep into the tyre so that the inner tube does not get caught between rim and tyre beads. Does the valve stand upright? If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube.
X
To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between rim and bead, inflate the tyre a little and then move it sideways back and forth between the sides of the rim. While doing this you can also check whether the rim tape has been displaced.
X
Inflate the inner tube only to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is indicated on the side of the tyre.
Witness line all around the side of the tyre
X
Check the proper seat of the tyre by means of the “witness line” on the side of the tyre just above the edge of the rim. Make sure the witness line is even with the rim edge all the way around the tyre.
If you have a puncture en route, you can try to repair it without dismounting the wheel and without removing the tube. Inflate the tube, leave the valve sticking in the rim and first look for the hole where the air is escaping. Bring the inner tube close to your ear and watch out for hissing noises. When you have found the hole, look for the corresponding place on the tyre and examine it. Often you will find the foreign body sticking in the tyre. Remove it, if necessary.
94 WHEELS
PUNCTURE
REMOVING TUBULAR TYRES
Deflate the tyre completely. To dismount the tyre, start opposite the valve by pushing the tyre to the side until a gap appears and the tyre starts to come off. If the tyre remains tight, stick a tyre lever into the gap and lift the tyre off the rim.
Replacing an individual tube is impossible. Instead you have to mount a complete tubular tyre. En route the tyre cannot be glued and is consequently not tight on the rim even when inflated.
Press the tyre to the side until there is a gap
Therefore, be sure to ride back very slowly and carefully by taking the shortest way possible. Back home, you have to glue the tubular tyre, as described in the following.
MOUNTING TUBULAR TYRES
To mount a tubular tyre properly so that it durably stays in place you should take yourself some time and proceed stepwise. A little practice and experience with the glue and tubular model you are using can speed up the job.
Use a tyre lever to remove the tyre
Tubular tyres can be glued either with liquid tyre glue or with adhesive tapes. One advantage of using tape is that it can be done fairly quickly.
However, this may not always give a sufficiently firm bond of the tyre on the rim. In the event of a roadside puncture the tape will often cling to the dismounted tyre and your spare tyre may not bond to the rim sufficiently well.
A better alternative, therefore, is to glue the tyre to a generous bed of several layers of liquid tyre glue.
Glue not only gives a firmer bond, it usually also remains on the rim when dismounting the tyre.
Tubular tyre glue
If your bike has carbon rims, you have to use special tubular tyre glue (e.g. from
Continental). Be sure to read the operating instructions of the manufacturer of tubular tyre glue for carbon rims before applying it.
dent!
A poorly glued tubular tyre can make the tyre come off the rim. Risk of acci-
PUNCTURE
WHEELS 95
Nevertheless, you should still remove the spare tyre again after completing your tour. To achieve a stronger bond you can then retreat the adhesive bed and the tyre with glue and remount the tyre.
If your wheels have very high rim edges, unscrew the valve core from the valve with special mounting tools and mount a valve extension instead.
Then screw the valve core into the extended valve.
Now you can inflate and deflate the mounted tyre via the extended valve in the usual way.
Mounting the valve extension
Inflate the tyre to a point where it starts to become round and then stick the valve through the hole in the rim. Starting from the valve and working in both directions press the tyre into the rim all the way round. If you are unable to mount it completely on the rim or if this would require excessive force, leave off trying, since it might not work with force alone.
After mounting the tubular tyre, spin the wheel and see whether the tyre runs true. The area where the valve comes out of the tyre is often thickened which leads to a vertical runout of the rim and makes the wheel jolt during the ride. Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out.
Seal the area with instant glue subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the rim. If time permits, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few days to make the final mounting easier.
Checking the true running with brake
Tyre glues do not only stick on rims and tyres, they also cling quite stubbornly to fingers and clothes. This makes it advisable to wear old clothes when mounting tubulars.
Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using a rag soaked in spirit or benzine.
When mounting a tyre on a rim that has already been used, it may be necessary to carefully remove glue residues and dirt with emery cloth. Be careful not to damage the carbon material. When you are done, wipe the rim with a soft rag and benzine.
Benzine and tyre glue should only be used in a well aired place, since both materials are highly flammable. Keep them in a safe place out of children’s reach.
96 WHEELS
PUNCTURE
Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre is easiest with the wheel clamped in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.
With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the entire circumference of the rim.
Leave a section of five to ten centimetres without glue at a place just opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the tyre again at a later date.
Applying the tyre glue directly from the tube
With a little practice you will be able to apply the glue straight from the tube. If this does not work at first you might find it easier to use a stiff brush.
If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need a brush in any case. Let the tyre glue dry until it loses its sticky liquid touch. This can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of glue and let them dry. Leave the wheel as it is at least until the next day.
Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape. To complete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue. Let the topmost layer dry for a short time and, while it still feels syrupy, place the wheel on the ground with the valve hole facing upward. Inflate the tyre until it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole and press it firmly against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not touch the adhesive bed, since your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.
Stick the valve of the slightly inflated tube through the hole in the rim
Before removing a wheel, be sure to read the chapters “The wheels” and
“How to use quick-releases and thru axles” .
Observe the video about the secure gluing of Continental tubular tyres
(www.conti-online.com)
PUNCTURE
WHEELS 97
If you have left the section opposite the valve hole free of glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt getting into the glue when you place the wheel on the ground.
Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigorously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim until you have about 20 centimetres left to go.
Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the not yet mounted section. Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre with both thumbs into the base of the rim.
When the tyre is seated in the base, it has to be centred, as it will rarely run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it.
If the tread does not run exactly in the centre or if it swerves to the side at any place, lift it up at that place, twist it a little into true and let it go again.
Heaving the tyre into the rim base
Pressing the tyre with the thumbs over the rim edge
When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre, take the wheel off the mounting stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure.
Lean your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the wheel a few metres on the ground. As you roll the wheel, vary between pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to either side.
If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pressure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off for the first time. Beforehand adjust the pressure of the newly mounted tyre according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and to your own needs.
Checking the tyre trueness with the brake pads
Keep in mind that after dismounting a tubular tyre en route it will not be attached to the rim as firmly as before. Therefore, ride particularly carefully on the last part of your tour. Back home, you will need to glue it properly again.
Improper mounting can lead to malfunction or tyre damage. It is therefore absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions enclosed with the delivery.
98 WHEELS
PUNCTURE
MOUNTING WHEELS
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse of dismounting. Make sure the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the fork legs or the rear and chainstays. Check the proper seat of the quick-release (see the chapter
“How to use quick-releases and thru axles” ) and possibly hook in the brake cable immediately or close the release lever!
Checking the true running with brake pads
Witness line all around the side of the tyre
Improper mounting may cause malfunction or even brake failure. It is therefore absolutely necessary to follow the manufacturer’s operating instructions enclosed with the delivery.
Close the quick-release lever (Shimano,
SRAM) or shift the pin in the shift/ brake-lever unit (Campagnolo) and check before you set off again, whether the brake pads hit the brake surfaces. Make sure the wheel is correctly and firmly fixed in the drop-outs. After mounting the wheel make sure the brake pads or the rim are free of grease or other lubricants. Be sure to do a brake test!
If the fabric of the tyre is, however, destroyed by the perforating object, replace the tyre as a precaution.
HEADSET 99
THE HEADSET
The headset connects fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel to the frame, but allows them to turn freely as a unit. It must afford virtually no resistance to turning, if your Canyon is to go straight, stabilizing itself as it runs. Shocks caused by uneven road surfaces subject the headset to considerable stress. It may therefore happen to become loose and maladjusted.
CHECKING AND READJUSTING
X
Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head cup.
Check the headset for play by placing your fingers around the upper head cup and by moving your Canyon back and forth with actuated brake lever
X
Bring your weight to bear on the saddle, pull the front brakes with your other hand and push your
Canyon firmly back and forth with the wheel remaining on the ground.
X
If there is play in the bearing, the upper head cap will move noticeably relative to the lower cup.
To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the front wheel and move it
X
Another way to check the headset is to lift the front wheel a little off the ground and then let it drop. If there is play in the bearing, you will hear a rattling noise in this area.
X
To check the bearing for ease of running, lift the frame until the front wheel no longer touches the ground. Move the handlebars from the left to the right. The front wheel should turn very easily from far left to far right without catching anywhere. A light tap on the handlebars should be enough to turn the wheel to the side.
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience and should, therefore, be left to a skilled mechanic. If you want to try it by yourself, be sure to carefully read the operating instructions of the headset manufacturer beforehand!
Riding the bike with a loose headset increases the stress acting on the fork and the bearing. This may damage the bearing or lead to a fork break with serious consequences! Risk of a fall!
Check the secure seat of the stem after having adjusted the bearings, by holding the front wheel between your knees and trying to twist the handlebars relative to the front wheel. Otherwise, a loose stem can throw you off your bicycle.
100 HEADSET
THREADLESS HEADSET: AHEADSET ®
The special feature of this system is that the stem is not inserted in the steerer tube, but clamped externally around the steerer tube which in this case is threadless. The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping force secures the bearing in its set position.
X
Release the clamping bolts located on the sides or rear side of the stem.
X
Gently tighten a little the countersunk adjusting bolt on the top by using an Allen key.
Adjust the bearing play by means of the countersunk adjusting bolt at the top after releasing the clamping bolts on the side
X
Realign the stem with the frame so that the handlebars are not slanted when the wheel points straight ahead.
X
Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side of the stem by using a torque wrench. Use a torque wrench and do not exceed the maximum torque values! You find them in the chapter
“Recommended torque values” , on the components themselves and/or in the manuals of the component manufacturers.
Retighten the clamping bolts located on the side of the stem by using a torque wrench
X
Check the headset for play, as described further below. Be sure not to adjust the bearing too tight.
To do the check stand in front of your Canyon and take the front wheel between your knees. Take hold of the handlebars at the brake levers and try to turn them relative to the front wheel. If you are able to turn the handlebars, retighten a little the clamping bolt(s) of the stem.
Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel
Check the secure seat of the stem after you have adjusted the bearing! A loose stem may throw you off your bike!
Do not tighten this bolt, as it is intended for adjusting the play!
tube.
Bear in mind that by overtightening the bolts the stem can crush the steerer
HEADSET 101
I-LOCK HEADSET
The special feature of this system is that the stem is clamped externally around the threadless steerer tube. The stem is an important part of the headset bearings. Its clamping force secures the bearing in its set position. Unlike the widely spread Aheadset ® system, this system allows a bearing adjustment with a firmly clamped stem.
X
Check the clamping bolts on the side and in the rear of the stem with a torque wrench according to the torque marked on them. Never exceed the given maximum torque.
X
Use a 2 mm Allen key and tighten the threaded pin at the head cup carefully clockwise. Start with a quarter turn.
Use a torque wrench to check the stem clamping bolts on the side according to the marked torques
X
Check the headset for play, as above described.
Do not tighten the bearing too much.
X
If necessary, tighten the screw by another quarter rotation and check again.
X
Make a final check by standing in front of your
Canyon and taking the front wheel between your knees.
Adjust the bearing play with the adjusting bolt on the side
Check the headset again for play
The headset cannot be adjusted without opening the transition plates. The transition plates must be opened prior to setting the bearing play and closed after the setting of the bearing play.
Do not tighten this adjusting bolt, but only adjust the play carefully!
102 HEADSET
X
Take hold of the handlebars at the brake levers and try to turn them relative to the front wheel.
Try twisting the handlebars relative to the front wheel.
X
If there is play in handlebars or stem, release the bolts, realign the component and tighten the stem clamping bolts to the recommended torques.
X
If there is still play in handlebars or stem even with the maximum permitted torque, please dismount the clamping, degrease it, apply a new layer of carbon assembly paste and reassemble.
Try twisting the handlebars relative to front wheel and stem
Apply some carbon assembly paste on the steerer tube or the handlebars, if necessary
Check the secure seat of stem and handlebars after you have adjusted the bearing! Loose handlebars or stem may throw you off your bike!
AEROAD MODEL
HEADSET 103
HEADSET ON THE AEROAD MODEL
This system is characterised by the fact that the headset can only be adjusted with a special tool.
This special tool is included in the box with the small parts.
X
Remove the top central rubber cover of the stem body and open the insertion opening for the special tool.
X
Position the handlebar fully to the right or left.
X
Now you can loosen the screw on the rear side of the headset cap with a 4 mm Allen key. Unscrew the screws by only one to two turns, but not completely.
X
Tighten the inner adjustment slightly with the special tool, i.e. to a torque value of 2 Nm.
X
Then tighten the screw on the rear side of the headset bearing cap to the indicated torque value of 9 Nm. Use the Canyon torque wrench.
Tighten carefully by approaching the prescribed maximum torque value in small steps (0.5 Nm increments) while checking the proper seat of the handlebar in between. Do not exceed the indicated maximum torque value!
X
Check the headset for play, as above described.
Unscrew the special tool subsequently. Reposition the top central rubber cover.
X
If there is still play in the headset after the adjustment, repeat the above-described procedure.
X
If there is still play in the headset subsequently, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
X
Make a final check by standing in front of your
Canyon and taking the front wheel between your knees.
Unscrew the bolts by only one to two turns, but not completely
Use the special tool included in the box with the small parts
Tighten the bolt on the rear side of the headset bearing cap to the indicated torque value of 9 Nm
This work must be done with the special tool enclosed in the box with the small parts. Do not use any other tools.
Adjusting the headset requires a certain amount of experience and should, therefore, be left to a skilled mechanic. If necessary, have the job on your Canyon road bike be done by an expert.
104 IMPACT PROTECTION UNIT (IPU)
IMPACT PROTECTION
UNIT (IPU)
Your Canyon road bike is equipped with an end stop, also referred to as Impact Protection Unit or IPU.
This IPU avoids that the handlebars or its equipment collide with the top tube limiting the possible handlebar range to +/- 80 degrees.
The IPU is underneath the lower headset and not visible when the fork is assembled.
IMPACT PROTECTION UNIT (IPU)
The replacement requires a certain amount of experience and must be performed by Canyon. Contact our service hotline or use our contact form.
Riding without IPU can make the handlebars or the handlebar fittings collide with the top tube. The frame can sustain damage.
TRANSPORT 105
TRANSPORT OF YOUR
CANYON BIKE
TAKING YOUR CANYON BY CAR
There are several ways of transporting your
Canyon by car. Canyon recommends putting the bike into the boot to take it with you.
Bikes do take away a lot of space inside a boot, but they are also better protected against dirt, theft and damage.
Transport by car
Pull the brake lever and secure it with a strong elastic strap when transporting a road bike with disc brakes.
X
Take, however, care that the cables, lights and wires and in particular the gears do not get damaged. Protect your Canyon with padding material such as blankets or the like. This is also a good idea, when your Canyon is heavily soiled, so that the dirt does not wipe off on the seat upholstery.
X
Make sure to secure your bike.
Do not use a bike carrier system on which your Canyon has to be mounted upside down, i.e. with handlebars and saddle fixed face down to the rack. This way of fastening the bike exposes handlebars, stem, saddle and seat post to extreme stress during transport. Risk of breakage!
Do not buy a bike carrier system where the front wheel has to be removed and your Canyon is secured by the fork.
If transporting the bicycle inside the boot is impossible, nearly every car accessory dealer and car company offers carrier systems which allow bicycle transport without disassembly. The usual design involves rails fixed to the roof of the car onto which the bicycles are fixed with clamps gripping the down tubes. Be aware that not every bicycle carrier is suitable.
With most clamps of bike carrier systems there is a risk of crushing large-diameter frame tubes! As a result thereof carbon frames may fail abruptly during use, aluminium frames are susceptible to dents. There are, however, special suitable models available from car accessory dealers.
Secure your Canyon when transporting it inside a car. In the event of an accident unsecured loads inside a car may be an additional risk for the occupants. Often you will find it necessary to dismount one or even both wheels to load the bike into the car. Be sure to read the chapter “The wheels” , notably the section “Repairing punctures” , before removing a wheel!
If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks before transporting your road bike with the wheels dismounted.
Transporting Canyon road bikes on bicycle carriers with clamps is only permitted, if the clamping has a torque limitation and if the bicycle carrier is approved by the manufacturer for attaching road bikes or bikes with carbon frames. These are potential sources of damage to large-diameter frame tubes! Risk of crushing! In particular frames made of carbon can sustain irreparable damage. This can result in damage not visible externally which may lead to severe crashes. Read in any case the instructions of the bicycle carrier manufacturer before mounting your Canyon on a bicycle carrier!
106 TRANSPORT
Rear carriers are becoming more and more popular. Their big advantage over roof carriers is that you do not have to lift up the bicycles so high to attach them. Make sure the fastenings do not create any damage to the fork or frame. Risk of breakage!
Whatever system you opt for, make sure it complies with the relevant safety standards of your country.
TAKING YOUR CANYON BY PLANE
The Canyon BikeGuard
If you intend to take your Canyon with you when you go on a trip by plane, pack it into the
BikeGuard or BikeShuttle.
Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box.
Do not forget to take the necessary tools, a torque wrench, bits and this manual with you to be able to assemble the bicycle and to get it ready for use at your destination.
Canyon Signature Pro Bike Bag
If you have disc brakes, be sure to mount the safety locks before transporting your road bike with the wheels dismounted.
Please make sure the lights and the number plate of your car are not hidden from view. For some carriers a second exterior rear view mirror is required by the road traffic regulations.
Pack the wheels in special wheel bags to protect them inside the suitcase or cardboard box.
Read the operating instructions of your bicycle carrier and observe the maximum load capacity and recommended or prescribed driving speed.
In the event your Canyon has not been packed for dispatch according to the enclosed packing instructions, you have no right to claim refund of repair costs for possibly occurring transport damage from Canyon
Bicycles GmbH.
Check whether your bicycle is properly fastened before and at regular intervals during the ride. A bicycle that detaches from the roof carrier may endanger other road users.
Observe the greater overall height of your car. Measure the overall height and place a sign stating the height somewhere in the cockpit or on the steering wheel so that it can be easily seen.
CARE AND INSPECTION 107
GENERAL NOTES
ON CARE AND
INSPECTION
Your Canyon is a product of high quality and technology. Nevertheless, as with other vehicles, you should see to your Canyon regularly and have an expert do the scheduled maintenance work.
Cleaning the Canyon with rag and water
In addition, on lightweight bikes important components have to be replaced regularly (see the chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” ).
This is the only way to ensure the safe and reliable functioning of all components as well as fun and safety on your bike for many years.
WASHING AND CLEANING YOUR CANYON
Dried sweat, dirt and salt from riding during the winter or in sea air harm your Canyon. You should therefore make a habit of regularly cleaning all the components of your Canyon and protecting them from corrosion.
Do not clean your Canyon with a steam jet. This cleaning method is quick, but it entails serious drawbacks: As the water is ejected at high pressure in a narrowly focussed jet, it may pass through seals and penetrate bearings. This leads to the dilution of lubricants and consequently to greater friction and onset of corrosion. This destroys and impairs the functioning of the bearing races in the long term. Steam jet treatment also tends to abrade stickers.
A much gentler way of cleaning your Canyon is with a soft water jet and/or with a bucket of water and a sponge or large brush. Cleaning your Canyon by hand has another positive side-effect: in that it enables you to discover defects in the paint or worn or defective components at an early stage.
Polishing paint and metal surfaces with hard wax material. If in doubt, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com. Have defective components replaced immediately and touch up paint defects.
tance.
While cleaning, look for cracks, scratches, dents as well as bent or discoloured
Do not clean your Canyon with a strong water or steam jet from a short dis-
Protect the upper side of the chainstay and all places where cables might rub with foil or the like. This will avoid any unpleasant scratches and abrasion marks.
108 CARE AND INSPECTION
Use a hand-held atomizer for parts with small surfaces. Polish waxed surfaces with a soft cloth to give them a nice shine and make them water-repellent.
After completing the cleaning work, you should check the chain and lubricate it if necessary (see the chapter “The gears” , notably section “Chain maintenance” ).
Special case Aeroad Check of chain condition
Regreasing the Aero seat post in the area of the seal is only necessary once a year during maintenance or every 3,000 km (1,800 miles). Even after riding in dirt and rain, you need not apply new grease.
Clean the seal area inside and out with an absorbent cloth before applying fresh grease.
If the clamping effect is no longer sufficient despite the correct torque value of the clamping bolt in the seat tube, you can apply assembly paste to the clamp punch with a brush during the maintenance.
Applying new grease on the seal
Avoid cleaning with a steam jet. The sharp high-pressure water jet can penetrate past the seals inside the bearings.
Canyon assembly paste may only be applied to the clamp punch of the seat post in the seat tube.
Be sure to only do work for which you have the necessary knowledge and suitable tools.
Do not apply cleaning agent and chain oil to the brake disc, the brake pads and brake surfaces of the rim, as the brake could fail otherwise (see the chapter “The brake system” )! Do not apply grease or oil on clamping areas made of carbon, e.g. the handlebars, the stem, the seat post and the seat tube.
Canyon assembly paste on the clamp punch of Aero seat post
Remove tough oil or grease stains from paint and carbon surfaces by using petroleum based solvents. Do not use degreasing agents containing acetone, methyl chloride etc., non-neutral, chemical or solvent-containing cleaning agents. They could attack the surface!
Before applying any hard wax on the frame of your Canyon, be sure to test it in a less visible spot first!
CARE AND INSPECTION 109
SAFEKEEPING AND STORING YOUR CANYON
If you regularly look after your Canyon during the season, you will not need to take any special precautions when storing it for a short time, apart from securing it against theft. It is advisable to store your Canyon in a dry and airy place.
There are some things to bear in mind when storing your Canyon away for the winter:
X
During the long standing time, the inner tubes gradually lose air. If your Canyon is left standing on flat tyres for an extended period, this can cause damage to the structure of the tyres. It is therefore better to hang the wheels or the entire bike or to check the tyre pressure regularly.
Store the bike with the chain on outmost sprocket and smallest chainring
X
Clean your Canyon and protect it against corrosion as described above.
X
Dismount the saddle and allow for any moisture that may have entered to dry away. Spray a little finely atomized oil into the seat tube (exception: carbon frames).
X
Store your Canyon in a dry place.
X
Switch the gear to the smallest chainring and the smallest sprocket. This relaxes the cables and springs as much as possible.
Check the air pressure at regular intervals
Do not apply cleaning agent and chain oil to the brake disc, the brake pads and brake surfaces of the rim! There is a risk of brake failure which could cause an accident!
Do not hang bicycles with carbon rims by the rims! Risk of breakage!
110 CARE AND INSPECTION
SERVICING AND INSPECTION
First service:
A special maintenance schedule has been developed by our experienced technicians. On the first kilometres/miles, for example, the wheels may be subject to a certain bedding-in process or bowden and brake cables may stretch, making gear shifting imprecise. Depending on how much you cycle, the repair of worn down parts may be necessary already. In this case you will be contacted by a service technician beforehand.
The Canyon torque wrench
Regular annual service:
Following a long and challenging season we recommend that you have your bike thoroughly checked. Who could do this better than those who built your bike?
The annual service will be carried out by our skilled staff according to a maintenance schedule tailored to your bicycle type.
In case you pack your Canyon to send it in to the Canyon workshop, be sure to strictly follow the packing instructions “How to pack your road bike” enclosed with the
BikeGuard.
In particular lightweight components may have a reduced service life. For your own safety make sure to have the components listed in the chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” checked at the indicated intervals and replaced, if necessary.
To be able to enjoy your Canyon for many years it needs to be serviced regularly. The schedule given in the chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” is a rough guide for cyclists who ride their bike between
1,000 and 2,500 km (620 and 1,550 miles) a year. If you regularly cycle a lot more on poor road surfaces or cross-country, it will require correspondingly shorter maintenance periods.
This includes frequent rides in the rain or generally in moist conditions, as well.
CARE AND INSPECTION 111
Canyon safety check:
If you ride your Canyon less than 1,000 km (620 miles) a year, it requires correspondingly less servicing. In this case the Canyon safety check is exactly what you need. For this purpose our specialists have developed a schedule for this demand-oriented maintenance. This schedule includes less routines than an annual service, however all safety-relevant issues. We recommend that you have this check carried out before setting off into the new bike season or before going on a bike trip so that you can take off without a care.
Make an appointment in advance to ensure that your Canyon runs through this check as quickly as possible.
Have your Canyon serviced at regular intervals!
If a component needs to be replaced, make it a rule to only use original spare parts. During the first 2 years (and the warranty period respectively) Canyon makes available all essential spare parts. In the event of unavailability Canyon will offer spare parts of equal or higher value.
There are numerous service films on our website www.canyon.com that will help you carry out small repair and maintenance works. Never do work on your bicycle unless you feel absolutely sure about it! If you are in doubt or if you have any questions contact our service hotline or use our contact form on our website www.canyon.com
112 SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
After the bedding-in period you need to have your bike serviced by an expert at regular intervals. The intervals given in the schedule below are meant as reference for cyclists who cycle between
1,000 to 2,500 km (620 to 1,550 miles), approx. 40 to 100 hours, a year. If you regularly cycle more or a lot on poor roads, the service intervals will shorten according to the harder use.
Component
Batteries
(gear)
Lighting
Tyre equipment
Fork
(aluminium and carbon)
What to do
Check state of charge, recharge, if necessary
Check
Check pressure
Check tread and side walls
Brakes (rim) Check lever travel, brake pad thickness and position of pads relative to rim
Test brakes in stationary
Brake cables/lines Visual inspection
Rims
(aluminium) on rim brakes
Check wall thickness, replace, if necessary
Check
Replace
Before every ride
Monthly Annually Other intervals
At the latest after second set of brake pads
At least every
2 years
After a fall or 6 years
Bottom bracket Check bearing play
Chain
Regrease
Check and/or lubricate
Check and/or replace
After 1,000 km
(620 miles)
Crank
Coating
Check and/or retighten
Polish
At least every
6 months
SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE 113
Component What to do Before every ride
Monthly Annually Other intervals
Wheels/ spokes
Handlebars and stem, carbon and aluminium
Check wheel trueness and tension
True and/or retrue
Check
Replace
If necessary
At least every
2 years
After a fall or 6 years
Bar tape
Headset
Metal surfaces
Check regularly and replace, if necessary
Check bearing play
Regrease
Polish
(exception: rim sides)
At least every
6 months
Hubs Check bearing play
Regrease
Check bearing play Pedals
Clean, grease locking mechanism
Frame-fork-unit Grease
Seat post Aeroad Grease seal area
Annually
Every 3,000 km
(1,800 miles)
Front/rear derailleur
Quick-release/ thru axle
Clean, grease
Check tight fit
Bolts and nuts Check and/or retighten
Valves
Stem/ seat post
Check seat
Dismount and regrease or reapply carbon assembly paste
(Caution: do not grease carbon parts)
Cables: gear/brake Disassemble and regrease
Jobs marked “ ” ” you should be able to do yourself, provided you have a certain degree of manual skill, a little experience and suitable tools, including e.g. a torque wrench. If you come across any defects, take appropriate measures without delay. In case of questions or if you are in doubt, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Jobs marked “ ” should be left to an experienced and skilled bicycle expert (e.g. in an authorized, specialist bicycle workshop).
In case of questions or if you are in doubt, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website, www.canyon.com
114 RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUES
RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUES
Component Bolted connection
Rear
derailleur
Mount (on frame/derailleur hanger)
Cable clamp
Pulley bolt
Mount on frame Front
derailleur
Braze-on mount for direct fastening
Cable clamp
Dual Control
Lever/
Ergopower/
Doubletap
Mounting bracket bolt
(Allen bolt)
Hole covering
Bolt for cable stop on frame
(screwdriver)
Hub Quick-release lever
Counter nut for bearing adjustment with quick-release hubs
Sprocket cluster lock ring Free-wheel hub
Crank set Crank fixing bolt
(cotterless, grease-free)
Shimano* Campagnolo** SRAM***
8-10 Nm
5-7 Nm
2.5-3 Nm
5-7 Nm
5-7 Nm
6-8 Nm
0.3-0.5 Nm
1.5-2 Nm
5-7.5 Nm
15-17 Nm
30-50 Nm
Crank fixing bolt Shimano Octalink 35-50 Nm
Crank fixing bolt Shimano Hollowtech II 12-15 Nm
Crank mount (Isis)
15 Nm
6 Nm
5 Nm
7 Nm
5 Nm
10 Nm
40 Nm
32-38 Nm
8-12 Nm
4-5 Nm
3-7 Nm
5-7 Nm
6-8 Nm
40 (11-speed)
50 (10-speed)
31-34 Nm
48-54 Nm Crank mount (Gigapipe)
Spline
Shaft fixing bolt Ultra Torque
Chainring fixing 8-11 Nm
42 Nm
42-60 Nm
8 Nm 12-14 (steel)
8-9 (alu)
Sealed cartridge bottom bracket
Pedal
Shoe
Shell (square head)
Shell
(Shimano Hollowtech II SRAM Gigapipe)
Octalink
Pedal axle
Cleat bolts
50-70 Nm 70 Nm
35-50 Nm
50-70 Nm
35-55 Nm
5-6 Nm
40 Nm
34-41 Nm
47-54 Nm
Spike 4 Nm
RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUES 115
Component Bolted connection
Side-pull brake Fixing bolt of brake holder
Seat post
Cable fixing bolt
Brake fastening bolts
Fastening bolt of saddle clamp on seat post head
Shimano*
5-7 Nm
6-8 Nm
8-10 Nm
Campagnolo** SRAM***
8 Nm
6-8 Nm
10 Nm
20-29 Nm**** 18-22 Nm****
* si.shimano.com
** www.campagnolo.com
*** www.sram.com
**** These are guide values given by the above-mentioned component manufacturers.
Observe the values given in the possibly enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers
8 Nm
5 Nm
8-10 Nm
Some components are directly marked with the necessary torque values.
Strictly observe the torques given on the stickers or imprints.
The Canyon torque wrench Mounting with the Canyon torque wrench
116 RECOMMENDED TORQUE VALUES
Canyon frame:
Bottle cage bolts
Replaceable derailleur hanger
2 Nm
1,5 Nm
Canyon seat post clamp:
The bolt torques for your Canyon sea post clamp and your stem are indicated on the components themselves.
Use the following torque values, unless otherwise indicated by the stem or seat post manufacturer on the component itself or in the respective assembly instructions.
Torque value
Stem:
M5 bolts
M6 bolts
Adjusting bolt (on top) on Aheadset ® -stems
4.5-5.5 Nm
8-9.6 Nm
0.5-2 Nm
Seat post
The torques values for your Canyon seat post and your saddle are indicated on the components themselves.
Canyon Road carbon cockpit: max. 6 Nm
Special case Grail:
Handlebar grips on carbon handlebars 7.5 Nm
All bolted connections on the components of your Canyon have to be tightened carefully and checked regularly to ensure the safe operation of your bike. This is best done with a torque wrench that switches off as soon as the desired torque value is reached.
Tighten the bolts carefully by approaching the maximum permissible torque value in small steps. Check the secure seat of the component, as described in the relevant chapters. For parts without torque specifications, tighten the bolts gradually and check in between whether the component is already fastened sufficiently, as described in the relevant chapters. Do not exceed the maximum torque value.
With steerer tubes made of carbon
(black-coloured) tighten the stem with a maximum torque value of 6 Nm.
Some components are directly marked with the necessary torque values.
Strictly observe the torques given on the stickers or imprints.
Also observe the enclosed manuals of the component manufacturers or visit the Canyon website at www.canyon.com
LEGAL REQUIREMENTS 117
LEGAL REQUIREMENTS
FOR RIDING ON
PUBLIC ROADS
In Great Britain
(as of July 2021)
According to the Highway Code in Great Britain your bicycle must be equipped as follows:
Front light with test symbol
1. Lighting, rear lights, reflectors:
At night your bicycle must have:
X a white front light
X a red rear light
X a red rear reflector
X four amber pedal reflectors
(if manufactured after October 1, 1985)
In addition, it should be equipped with:
X a white front reflector
X spoke reflectors
X flashing lights are permitted, a steady front lamp is however recommended.
(Law RVLR regs 13, 18 & 24)
It is not required that the prescribed lighting is mounted upon sale of the bicycle. If it is, however, it must comply with these regulations.
Bicycles that are only used with good daylight visibility, such as e.g. road racing bicycles, are exempt from the lighting regulations.
2. Brakes
Every bicycle must be equipped with at least one braking system.
(Laws PCUR regs 6 & 10)
3. Signalling devices
It is recommended that a bell be equipped.
4. Cycle helmets
Wearing a cycle helmet which conforms to current regulations in the correct size and securely fastened is recommended.
Rear light with test symbol
Your find more important tips on riding in the chapter “General notes on this manual” .
118 LEGAL REQUIREMENTS
5. Child transport
There are no rules as to the transport of children with bicycles.
6. Trailers
Cycle trailers must be equipped with a red rear light as well as a triangular rear reflector with an ECE mark III or IIIA.
7. Hand held mobile phones
Cycling with a hand held mobile phone is not illegal as such. You could, however, commit an offence of “careless riding” or “riding without due care and consideration”. For safety reasons, you are strongly advised against using a mobile phone during cycling.
Battery lighting
8. Other issues
Using cycle lanes is not compulsory, but can make your journey safer. You must not cycle on a pavement.
Laws HA 1835 sect 72 & R(S)A 1984, sect 129
Lamps and reflectors
For your own safety, be sure to switch on the light as soon as dusk sets in. Riding without lighting set and reflectors when visibility is poor may cause severe accidents with unforeseeable consequences for your life and limb.
Keep the lighting set clean and check its functioning at regular intervals. Particularly check before every ride, whether the battery/accumulator-operated lights are sufficiently charged.
As there are too many different pedal systems, pedal reflectors are not made available by Canyon. In case you have more questions in this regard, contact the regional agency of your pedal manufacturer. You will find the address on the internet.
A range of lighting devices which you can obtain by mail order is listed on our website at www.canyon.com. Please check, whether these lighting devices are approved for use in your country.
WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE 119
LIABILITY FOR
MATERIAL DEFECTS
Your bike was manufactured with care and delivered to you largely pre-assembled. We are obliged by law to guarantee that your bike is free of any defects which considerably reduce its value or fitness for use or make it worthless or useless. You have full warranty rights within the first two years after purchase. We are your contact in the event of defects and you can get in touch with us at the indicated address.
In order for your claims to be processed smoothly it is necessary that you present your receipt.
Therefore, be sure to keep it in a safe place.
Always use your bike for its intended use
To ensure a long service life and good durability of your bike only use it for its intended purpose
(see the chapter “Intended use” ). Also observe the permissible load specifications and the instructions on transporting luggage and children (see the chapter “Intended use” ). The manufacturers’ assembly instructions (above all the torque values for bolts) and the prescribed maintenance intervals must also be followed strictly. Observe the tests and routines listed in this manual or in any other manual enclosed with this delivery (see the chapter “Service and maintenance schedule” ) as well as any instructions as to the replacement of safety-relevant components, such as handlebars, brakes etc.
We wish you safe and happy cycling wherever your bike takes you. In case of any inquiries, contact our service hotline or use the contact form on our website www.canyon.com
Protect the exposed areas of your carbon frame against damage from rubbing cables with specific pads.
Enclosed with the delivery you find the operating instructions of the component manufacturers. Here you will find all details about use, maintenance and care. This manual contains multiple references to these specific and detailed operating instructions.
Make sure that the respective manuals for clipless pedals, gear and brake components are in your possession and keep them in a safe place together with this manual and the
Canyon bicycle manual.
Carbon is a composite material which is used for weight-optimised designs. Surface irregularities on carbon components
(small boils and pores) are unavoidable for reasons inherent in the manufacturing process. They do not constitute a defect.
120 WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE
A NOTE ON WEAR
Some components of your bike are subject to wear due to their function. The rate of wear depends on care and maintenance as well as on the way you use your bike (kilometres travelled, rides in the rain, dirt, salt etc.). Bikes that are often left standing in the open may also be subject to increased wear through weathering.
These components require regular care and maintenance. Nevertheless, sooner or later they will reach the end of their service life, depending on conditions and intensity of use.
Brake pads with worn down wear indicators, i.e. grooves, (bottom brake pad) must be replaced by original spare parts
Parts that have reached their limit of wear must be replaced. This applies to the following parts:
X chain,
X cables,
X grip coverings or bar tape,
X chainrings,
X sprockets,
X pulleys,
X gear cables,
X tyres,
X saddle covering (leather) and
X brake pads
X brake discs/rotors.
Have the thickness of your rims checked at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads
The brake pads of rim brakes are subject to wear due to their function. If you use your bike for competitive cycling or in hilly terrain, they may have to be replaced quite frequently. Regularly check the condition of the pads and have them replaced by a dealer.
RIMS WITH RIM BRAKES
Braking causes wear not only to the brake pads but also to the rims. Therefore, check your rims regularly, e.g. when pumping up the tyres. Rims with wear indicators have rings or a gap that come into view when the rim reaches its limit of wear. Take note of the specifications given on the rim. Ask an expert to examine the remaining thickness of the rims at the latest when you are through your second set of brake pads.
Signs of deformation or fine cracks that appear in the sides of a rim when you increase the tyre pressure are an indication that the rim has reached the end of its service life. In this case the rim must be replaced.
WARRANTY AND GUARANTEE 121
GUARANTEE
Over and above the statutory warranty we give a voluntary guarantee of altogether 6 years on frames and forks of racing and triathlon machines.
This guarantee runs from the date of purchase and only applies to claims made by the first buyer. It also covers manufacturing defects in the coating.
However, externally caused damage to the coating are excluded from the guarantee. We reserve ourselves the right to repair defective frames or forks or to replace them by the respective successor model. These issues can be claimed under guarantee only. Additional costs, such as assembly and transport costs etc., shall not be borne by us.
Six-year guarantee
The guarantee does not cover damage caused by improper or other than the intended use, such as neglect (poor care and maintenance), crashes, overloading or resulting from changes made to the frame or fork or from the mounting or remounting of additional components. Damage resulting from jumps or other types of overstress is likewise not covered by the guarantee.
Canyon road, time trial, triathlon or track bikes are high-end sports equipment, representing lightweight construction as pinnacle of engineering. Also be a professional when it comes to handling of the material.
Misuse, unprofessional assembly or insufficient servicing can render the racing machine unsafe. Risk of accident!
122 CRASH REPLACEMENT
CRASH REPLACEMENT
In the event of an accident or severe crash, the high forces exerted on the frame and the fork can lead to structural failure during subsequent use.
With our Crash Replacement (CR) programme we offer you the opportunity to replace your damaged
Canyon frame at a greatly reduced cost. This offer is valid up to three years after the date of purchase. You’ll receive the same or a similar frame from our current product range (without add-on parts, such as seat post, front derailleur or stem).
The CR-service is limited to the original owner and to damages that compromise the functionality of the bike. We reserve the right to suspend this service if we detect that the damage has been caused unreasonably.
In order to claim the CR-service, contact our service hotline or use the contact form.
Your find more information on our website www.canyon.com
Crash Replacement – Damaged Canyon frames are replaced at reduced prices
Observe the indications given in the chapter “Intended use” .
Canyon Bicycles GmbH
Karl-Tesche-Straße 12
D-56073 Koblenz
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