Schacht CRANBROOK Assembly Manual

CRANBROOK LOOM
Assembly Manual
Find out more at schachtspindle.com
Schacht Spindle Company 6101 Ben Place Boulder, CO 80301
p. 303.442.3212 f. 303.447.9273
© 2020 Schacht Spindle Company, Inc.
01.20
4- AND 8-SHAFT CRANBROOK LOOM PARTS
TOOLS REQUIRED
7/16" wrench
7/16" ratchet
9/16" wrench
3/4" ratchet
3/4" wrench
#2 Phillips screwdriver
rubber mallet
slotted (flat) screwdriver
metal tape measure
DEFINITIONS
The beater is at the front of the loom. The brake and worm gear are on the right side of the loom.
Mortise: A hole or cavity cut in a piece of wood prepared to receive a similarly shaped piece.
Tenon: A projection on the end of a piece of wood designed to fit into a hole or cavity of the same shape.
HARDWARE
Some hardware is already attached to the parts. Other hardware has been packaged in labeled bags for the parts they go with.
You’ll also find two Allen wrenches (sizes 5/16" and 5/32") in a hardware bag.
SMALL PARTS
4-shaft
quantity
8-shaft
quantity
12-treadle option
quantity
24
80
96
anchor pegs
24
80
96
tie-up cords (tied bundles of 12 each)
10
10
10
bundles of Texsolv heddles (1,000 total)
4
8
8
center support dowels
8
16
16
long metal shaft pins
8
16
16
short metal shaft pins
8
16
16
metal sleeves
center
support
dowels
bundles of Texsolv heddles
tie-up cords
long metal
shaft pins
allen wrenches 5/16" & 5/32"
short metal
shaft pins
anchor pegs
metal sleeves
—2—
LOOM PARTS
Parts are illustrated on the next page unless otherwise indicated.
4-shaft
8-shaft
Box 1
1
1
right frame side with pivot block, brake hold & peg attached (shown on page 5)
1
1
left frame side (shown on page 5)
1
1
cloth beam
1
1
warp beam
3
3
steel beams with hardware attached
1
1
warp beam wheel
Box 2
Box 3 and/or 4
1
1
stainless steel reed (not shown)
16
16
wooden packing sticks (not shown)
2
2
lease sticks (same as packing sticks, but with holes; not shown)
3
3
cross beams: front and middle, rear with treadle support bar
6
6
wedges for cross beams
1
1
treadle separator beam with hardware attached
1
1
jack box with cords attached
2
2
warp beam hanger blocks with sliding locking blocks attached
6
10 (or 12)
1
1
lower lamm assembly with extension blocks attached
4
8
shaft tops
4
8
shaft bottoms
4
8
upper lamms
1
1
brake release pedal and connector strut
2
2
beater uprights
1
1
beater race
1
1
beater top
1
1
beater swing bar
1
worm gear
treadles
Box 4 or 5
1
—3—
cloth beam
warp beam
steel beams
warp beam wheel
wedges
front & middle cross beams,
rear cross beam with treadle support bar
treadle separator beam
jack box (cords not shown)
warp beam hanger blocks
treadle
lower lamm assembly
shaft top, shaft bottom & upper lamm
brake release pedal & connector strut
beater swing bar, beater top, beater race
worm gear
beater uprights
—4—
dust tray
beater swing bar
jack box
beater upright
steel back beam
beater top
warp beam
steel breast beam
warp beam wheel
steel knee beam
beater race
cloth beam
rear cross beam
with treadle
support bar
worm gear
treadle separator beam
with treadle locks
treadles
brake hold & peg
brake release pedal
FIGURE 1: OVERVIEW OF THE CRANBROOK LOOM
—5—
CRANBROOK LOOM
Assembly Instructions
Before you begin assembling your loom, check to see
that you have everything by comparing parts to lists and
illustrations on pages 2–4. Because some of the pieces are
quite large, the assembly will be easier when done with
another person (the 72" loom may require three people for
assembly). Assemble the loom in place, as it is difficult to
move once assembled.
It is important to keep the loom frame square when
you assemble it. This means that the loom sides and
cross beams are at right angles to each other. After the
preliminary assembly, and before you tap the wooden
wedges tightly into place, you will make a series of
measurements to verify that the loom is square (see
“Squaring the Loom” on page 7).
ASSEMBLE THE FRAME
Parts: 2 frame sides, 3 cross beams, 3 wooden wedges
In the right frame side, insert the rear cross beam (note: the
metal treadle support bar should face down) and the front
cross beam in their mortises (Figure 2). Now insert the
middle cross beam in the right side frame, and at the same
time bring the left side frame into place and support all three
cross beams (not fully inserted) on the left side.
Attach the three cross beams to the right side by tapping a
wooden wedge into place in the slot in each cross beam on the
outside of the right frame. Do not secure the cross beams on
the left frame side at this time, since you still need to allow for
space to insert the cloth beam later.
LEFT FRAME SIDE (INNER SIDE)
hole for jack box
mortise for
middle cross beam
hole for steel
back beam
slot for steel
breast beam
hole for steel
knee beam
holes for warp
beam hanger
blocks
mortise for
rear cross beam
mortise for
front cross beam
hole for
cloth beam
holes for treadle
separator beam
RIGHT FRAME SIDE
holes for lower
lamm assembly
slot for wedge
middle cross beam
hole for pawl
rear cross beam
with treadle support bar
5 holes for
worm gear
treadle locks
adjuster block
pivot block
treadle separator beam
brake hold
& peg
front cross beam
FRONT OF LOOM
FIGURE 2: FRAME ASSEMBLY
—6—
INSTALL THE WORM GEAR AND CLOTH BEAM
Before continuing, check that the cloth beam spins freely:
Disengage the worm gear. If the cloth beam does not turn
freely, you will have to remove the cloth beam and remove the
washer from the axle on the left side to provide more space.
The right frame side should have the wedges loosely set
through all cross beams. The left frame side must have only
the cross beams partially inserted without wedges. You will
need a helper to be sure that the left frame side without
wedges does not fall.
To engage the worm gear with the worm, push the worm gear
handle toward the back of the loom and turn it clockwise at
the same time. Turning the handle clockwise advances the
warp and provides tension. When weaving is complete or
tension must be released, turn the handle counterclockwise.
When the tension is released, the worm gear can be
disengaged by pulling the worm gear handle towards you the
as far as it can go. The cloth beam will now turn freely. Tension
must be released before the brake release pedal can be operated.
Parts: worm gear assembly, cloth beam, 3 wooden wedges
Hardware: 5X 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" Phillips truss head machine
screws; 5X 1/4" lock washers; 5X 1/4-20 lock nuts
On the outside of the frame, insert five 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" Phillips
truss head machine screws into holes 1 through 4 and the
slot (Figure 3). Place the worm gear assembly over the screw
shafts, then add a 1/4" lock washer and secure with a 1/4-20
lock nut. Pull the worm gear crank handle towards you up to
the shaft collar stop.
Carefully place the cloth beam between the frame sides on
the floor, or support it on a stool or low chair so that the axles
remain below their pivot holes. Install a 1" flat washer on
both axles. Insert the cloth beam end into the 1" hole in the
right frame side. At the same time, push the left frame side
toward the right side. Guide the left cloth beam axle into its
corresponding 1" hole.
SQUARING THE LOOM
Measure the diagonal distance from an inner edge of the left
front upright (A on Figure 4), to an inner edge of the right rear
upright (A1). Record this distance.
Measure the distance from the inner edge of the right front
upright (B) to the inner edge of the left rear upright (B1).
Record this distance.
Secure the left frame side by placing the remaining three
wood wedges in the cross members. Tap all the wedges gently
but firmly to bring the cross braces against the frame sides.
If the distances are the same, the loom is square. If one
distance is greater than the other, remove the wedges on the
left side and move the left side frame forward or backward
until the distances are the same. Then reinsert the wedges
and tap them into place.
worm gear
handle
worm
gear
cloth
beam
hole 3
hole 1
slot
hole 2
brake hold peg
brake hold
hole 4
worm
B1
REAR OF LOOM
A1
A
FRONT OF LOOM
B
shaft collar
right cloth beam support
right front upright
FIGURE 3: WORM GEAR
—7—
FIGURE 4: SQUARING THE LOOM
Remove both cotter pins from the treadle support bar. Slide
the treadle support bar out to one side of the three support
blocks (Figure 6).
INSTALL THE TREADLE SEPARATOR BEAM
Parts: treadle separator beam
Hardware: 4X 1/4-20 x 3-1/4" hex bolts; 8X 1/4" flat washers;
4X 1/4-20 lock nuts
Install treadles for your loom as shown in Figure 6A (6-treadle
looms), 6B (10-treadle looms) or 6C (12-treadle looms).
Working from the center support block outward, slide half
the treadles—making sure the flat sides of the treadles face
up—and wooden spacers onto the treadle support bar. Then
install the remaining treadles and wooden spacers on the
other side of the support bar, again working out from the
center support block. When all treadles and spacers have been
installed, secure both ends of the treadle support bar with
wood washers (for 12-treadle looms only) and cotter pins (all
looms).
Place the treadle separator beam on the floor between the
sides with the reinforcing bar facing the back of the loom.
Line up the two holes on the side of the loom with the adjuster
block slots (see Figure 2, page 6). Working from the outside,
secure each side with two 1/4-20 x 3-1/4" hex bolts in this
order: hex bolt, 1/4" flat washer, side frame, 1/4" flat washer,
lock nut. The adjuster bar slots make it possible to set the
treadle separator beam at different heights, ensuring uniform
and maximum sheds.
INSTALL THE TIE-UP CORDS ON THE TREADLES
Parts: treadles, tie-up cords
Treadles have flat tops and tapered bottoms. Take the end
of the tie-up cord farthest from the red and black marks, and
thread it through a hole from the top of the treadle (Figure
5A). Loop the cord around the edge of the treadle, then insert
the long end through the first full-size hole of the threaded
end (Figure 5B). Center the cord over the treadle hole and
tighten. The cords should all be looped around the same side
of the treadle. Install tie-up cords for all the holes in each
treadle.
top of treadle
INSTALL THE TREADLES ON THE TREADLE
SUPPORT BAR
A
Parts: treadle support bar and hardware (inserted through
support blocks on the rear cross beam); treadle spacers;
wooden washers (12-treadle looms only)
rear cross beam
first full-size
hole
B
FIGURE 5: INSTALLING TIE-UP CORDS
center support block
treadle support bar
A
treadle
wooden spacer
cotter pin
B
C
FIGURE 6: INSTALLING TREADLES
—8—
wooden washer
& cotter pin
ATTACH THE LOWER LAMM ASSEMBLY
Parts: lower lamm assembly
Hardware: 2X 3/8" x 3-1/2" hex bolts; 2X 3/8" flat washers; 2X
3/8" barrel nuts
Leave the wrapping materials in place until you have attached
the lamms. Make sure the hooks on the lower lamms face up.
From the inside of the left frame side, insert 3/8" x 3-1/2" hex
bolts and 3/8" flat washers into the two holes for the lower
lamm assembly (see Figure 2, page 6). Insert a 3/8" barrel nut
into each extension block. Slide the extension blocks over the
hex bolts, turning the barrel nuts if needed. Tighten the hex
bolts securely.
INSTALL THE STEEL BEAMS
Parts: 3 steel beams with attached hardware
Breast Beam: The breast beam fits into the slots at the top
of the front uprights (see Figure 2, page 6). Remove the
hardware so you can remove the packing materials. Insert
each 3" button head bolt through a fender washer and then
through the large flat washer. Attach the bolts into each end of
the beam, securing them about 1/2" deep. Position the beam
with the bolts over the slots in the front uprights, with fender
washers on the outside of the frame and large washers on the
inside. Slide the beam down to the bottom of the slots. Tighten
the bolts by hand, then use the large allen wrench to secure as
tightly as possible.
Back Beam: The back beam fits in the fourth hole from the
top in the rear uprights of the side frames (see Figure 2, page
6). (Holes closer to the top accept an optional double warp
beam and optional tension box rail.) Attach one end of the
back beam at a time. Insert a 3" button head bolt through a
fender washer, then through the frame side, then through the
large flat washer. Do not push the button head bolt all the way
through the washers and frame side. Have a helper raise the
back beam into position as you align the bolt and the hole in
the beam. Tighten the bolts loosely at this point. Repeat on the
other side of the loom.
the top of the knee beam to the cloth beam below. Install the
knee beam in the same way as the back beam.
Once the back and knee beams are installed, tighten all steel
beam bolts with the large allen wrench. Tap all six wedges for
the three wooden cross beams firmly into place again.
INSTALL THE JACK BOX
Parts: jack box
Set the jack box on the top of the loom, lining up the pegs in
the bottom of the jack box with the holes on the top of the
frame sides (see Figure 2, page 6). The wooden knobs of the
jack pivots and locking pins should face the front of the loom,
and all cords should hang down (Figure 7). Take care that the
locking pins do not fall out as you maneuver the jack box into
place.
ASSEMBLE THE SHAFTS AND INSTALL THE
HEDDLES
Parts for each shaft: 1X shaft top with 2 hooks, 1X shaft bottom
with 3 eyes, 1X wooden support dowel, 2X long metal shaft
pins, 2X short metal shaft pins, 2X metal sleeves, heddles
Do not remove the twist ties from the heddles until you read
the following instructions.
Each heddle bundle contains 100 heddles. The heddles are
linked together in a continuous string of heddles. It is safest
to cut the heddles apart only after heddles are installed on the
shafts.
You may need to cut apart some heddles before this if you
want to separate part of the bundle. First, determine how
many heddles you need on each shaft. Then divide this
number in half, to determine the number needed on each side
of the shaft. Place the whole bundle of heddles on two extra
sticks such as lease sticks (inserted at the space between the
twist ties). Now undo the twist ties and count out the heddles
you need. Then re-tie both bundles of heddles separately with
4 extra twist ties per bundle.
Knee Beam: The knee beam fits into holes in the side frames
directly above the cloth beam. This beam allows for additional
leg room within the loom, because woven material passes over
jack locking pin
jack pivot
yoke cord
jacks (inside jack box)
jack box
shaft suspension cord
upper (suspended) lamms
lower lamm assembly
FIGURE 7: JACK AND LAMM ASSEMBLY
—9—
Installing the heddles and assembling the shafts is done
simultaneously. Follow this procedure exactly to avoid
breaking the wooden support dowel.
Insert a wooden support dowel in the center holes of the shaft
top and bottom and tap firmly into place (Figure 8). Take care
when installing the heddles that the wooden support dowel
does not come out, because it cannot be replaced after the
heddles are installed.
First install the heddles on one side of the center support
dowel, sliding them over the hooks and eyes on the shaft top
and bottom. Cut the heddles apart by cutting the loops at the
very top and bottom of the heddles, and slide them all the way
to the center. This positioning will help in moving the heddles
across the shaft and with installing the heddles on the other
side of the shaft. Then install the heddles on the other side of
the center support dowel, cut them apart, and slide them to
the center of the shaft.
Place the shaft pins and metal sleeves in position at each end
of the shaft. Insert the long metal shaft pins in the holes in the
shaft top. Insert the short metal shaft pins in the shaft bottom
holes. Slide a metal sleeve onto the long metal shaft pin, and
slip it down over the short metal shaft pin to secure the shaft
side. Repeat on the other side of the shaft. If the heddles are
tightly stretched between the top and bottom shaft bars, tap
the top of the shaft firmly with a rubber mallet, at the center
and two sides, to compact the frame (Figure 8).
When each shaft is assembled, hang an upper lamm on it
by interlocking the three eyes on the shaft bottom with the
corresponding hooks on the lamm (see Figure 7, page 9).
Beginning at the rear of the loom, hang each shaft in the 10th
hole (marked in green) of each of the shaft suspension cords.
For 4-shaft looms, the shafts should be installed in the four
forward spaces.
Attach the corresponding lower lamm at the 12th hole (blue
mark) of the yoke cord. The yoke cord should be in back
of its corresponding shaft. The top of the shaft top will be
approximately 42-1/2" to 43" from the floor.
INSTALL THE PAWL
Parts: pawl with attached hardware
Install the pawl on the right rear upright, on the inside of the
loom, in the 1/2" hole below the steel back beam (see Figure
2, page 6). The hook on the pawl faces the rear of the loom as
shown in Figure 9. Thread the 1/2" x 3-1/4" hex bolt through
a 1/2" flat washer, then through the pawl hole from the outer
side of the frame. On the inner side of the frame, add the
following hardware as shown in Figure 9: 1/2" flat washer,
slim lock nut, pawl, 1/2" flat washer, slim lock nut.
wooden support dowel
shaft top
long metal shaft pin
metal sleeve
short metal shaft pin
shaft bottom
FIGURE 8: SHAFTS AND HEDDLES
RIGHT REAR UPRIGHT, INNER SIDE
RIGHT REAR UPRIGHT, INNER SIDE
1/2" x 3-1/4" hex bolt
pawl
slim lock nut
1/2" washer
1/2" washers
pawl
slim lock nut
FIGURE 9: PAWL HARDWARE
— 10 —
INSTALL THE WARP BEAM HANGER BLOCKS
AND WARP BEAM
INSTALL THE WARP BEAM BRAKE RELEASE
Parts: 2 warp beam hanger blocks, warp beam with attached
nylon washers, warp beam wheel
Hardware: 4X 3/8" barrel nuts; 4X 3/8" flat washers; 4X 3/8" x
6" hex bolts
Locate the four 3/8" holes in the back side of each rear
upright. You will install the warp beam hanger blocks on the
lower two holes of each upright. (The upper two holes are for
installation of an optional double warp beam.)
Install a warp beam hanger block on the rear upright: insert
two 3/8" barrel nuts into the holes in the hanger block. Place a
3/8" flat washer on each of two 3/8" x 6" hex bolts, then insert
the bolts through the rear upright from the front side. Orient
the hanger block so that the slotted ends of the barrel nuts
face to the inside of the loom, then attach the hex bolts into
the barrel nuts. (This orientation allows the beam lock blocks
to slide to the outside when the hanger blocks are installed.)
Repeat this step with the remaining warp beam hanger block.
Install the warp beam: remove the locking pegs from each
hanger block and slide out the lock blocks. On each end of
the warp beam, remove the tape holding nylon washers in
place but do not remove the washers. Insert the beam into the
hanger blocks and replace the lock blocks and pegs. From the
outer side of the loom, place the warp beam wheel over the
square shaft of the warp beam (Figure 10).
warp beam
hanger block
pawl
Parts: brake release pedal and connector strut
Hardware: 1X 1/2" x 5-1/2" hex bolt; 3X 1/2" flat washers; 1X
1/2" lock nut; 1X 1/4" x 1-3/4" hex bolt; 3X 1/4" flat washers;
1X 1/4" lock nut
Locate the pivot block on the inside of the right frame side
(Figure 10). The block is on the lowest horizontal side brace,
just to the rear of the treadle separator beam.
Place the brake release pedal above the front cross beam and
the treadle separator beam, and under the back cross beam
with the connector strut to the rear of the loom. Orient the
assembly so that the connector strut lies next to the loom side
(Figure 10), between the brake release pedal and the loom
side. Bolt the assembly in place at the pivot block, working
from the outside of the loom frame in this order: 1/2" x 5-1/2"
hex bolt, 1/2" flat washer, frame side, pivot block, two 1/2"
washers, pedal, two 1/2" flat washers, and 1/2" lock nut.
Tighten securely but allow the pedal to move freely.
Attach the connector strut to the pawl with a 1/4" x 1-3/4" hex
bolt, bolting from the inside as follows: hex bolt, 1/4" washer,
connector strut, two 1/4" washers, pawl, 1/4" washer, 1/4"
lock nut. Tighten securely but allow the connector strut to
move freely.
connector strut
right frame side
warp beam
wheel
warp beam
brake release pedal
rear cross beam
pivot block
FIGURE 10: WARP BEAM AND BRAKE RELEASE ASSEMBLY
— 11 —
treadle separator beam
ASSEMBLE THE BEATER
TYING UP YOUR COUNTERMARCHE LOOM
Parts: beater swing bar, beater top, beater race, beater
uprights
Hardware: 4X 1/4-20 barrel nuts; 4X 1/4-20 x 3" button head
bolts; 4X 1" fender washers; 2X 3/8" x 4" metal locking pins
It is easiest to tie up the treadles before the loom is warped.
The tie-up cords should already be attached to the treadles
(see page 8).
Working on the floor, assemble the beater uprights to the
beater race: insert a 1/4-20 barrel nut into each hole at the
tenoned end of a beater upright. Insert the tenon into the
mortise of the beater race. Attach the upright with two 1/420 x 3" button head bolts inserted through two 1" fender
washers, then screwed into the barrel nuts with the smaller
allen wrench provided. Repeat for other upright on the other
end of the beater race. Now slide the beater top onto the
uprights. Place the reed in the slot of the beater race and slide
the beater top down on the reed to secure it.
Attach the beater swing bar to the uprights by sliding it over
the top of the beater uprights (see Figure 1, page 5). Make
sure the metal pivots are on the underside of the bar, facing
toward the back. Set the beater height by inserting metal
locking pins into parallel holes of the beater uprights, above
the beater swing bar. Lift the beater from the underside of the
beater swing bar, on each side, and set the metal pivots into
the bronze pivot blocks on top of the frame.
Forward and backward adjustment. The notches of the bronze
pivot blocks allow control of the depth of the weaving space.
You can set the metal pivots into any of the notches as long
as the beater remains parallel to the front breast beam (see
below). A maximum shed is attained with the beater closest to
the front shaft.
Height adjustment. With the beater hanging freely, the warp
line should bisect the center of the reed. To adjust, hold a
beater upright in one hand and slide the locking pin out of
the hole with the other hand. Move the upright up or down as
required and reinsert the pin. Repeat this procedure on the
other beater upright, setting it at the same height as the first
upright.
Aligning the beater. The beater must be perfectly parallel with
the front breast beam. This alignment should be checked
periodically, especially if the loom has been moved or is
subjected to severe climatic changes. With your hand in the
center of the beater top, slowly pull the beater forward. Both
ends of the beater should touch the front posts simultaneously.
If they do not, realign the beater using the slotted screw holes
in the base of the beater pivot blocks. Loosen the screws
and tap the blocks lightly with a hammer, either forward or
backward, until the beater is aligned. Tighten the screws
securely.
Before starting the tie-up, make sure that the lock pins are
inserted in the overhead jacks—your loom comes with them
inserted. Then check to see that the heddle eyes are in a
direct horizontal line from the breast beam to the back beam.
To do this, simply tie a length of yarn from the warp beam,
up over the back beam, over the breast beam, and around the
cloth beam. Looking from the side of the loom, check to see
that the yarn forms a horizontal line from front to back and
passes through the center of the heddle eye. If it does not,
adjust the height of the shafts on the shaft hanger cords.
The countermarche loom has a balanced system of rising
and sinking shafts. There are two sets of lamms, an upper
suspended lamm and a lower lamm. A shaft tied to the lower
lamm will rise when the treadle is depressed. Remember:
“bottoms up.” A shaft tied to an upper lamm will sink when
the treadle is depressed. In tying up the countermarche loom,
each shaft is tied to either an upper or lower lamm on every
treadle. When you are done, if you are using all 8 shafts,
there will be no untied holes left on your treadles. If you have
a 4-shaft loom, the back 4 holes on each treadle will remain
untied.
Mark your tie-up draft so that you know which shafts should
rise and which should sink. Most tie-up drafts are marked for
the shafts to rise, so the blank spaces in the draft represent the
shafts that sink. You will tie the rising shafts for each treadle
to the lower lamm, and the sinking shafts to the upper lamm.
Each shaft works independently, meaning that the action of
one shaft does not affect that of another.
The specially designed Texsolv tie-up cords supplied with
your loom are all the same length, and each one can be tied to
either an upper or lower lamm. Each cord has a red loop and
a black loop; use the red loop for lower lamms and the black
loop for upper ones.
To tie a treadle to the upper lamm, pass the cord in back (or
front, when facing the front of the loom) of the lower lamm
and up through the upper lamm hole (Figure 11). Wrap the
marked loop around the small knob of a plastic anchor peg,
then insert the peg’s legs into the lamm hole (Figure 12). Hint:
When tying up a treadle, rest it on an adjacent treadle lock. It
is easier to tie up when there is no weight or tension on the
tie-up cords.
upper lamms
lower lamms
small knob
tie-up cord
legs
lamm
tie-up cords
treadle
BACK OF LOOM
treadle separator beam
(treadle locks not shown)
FIGURE 11: TYING UP LAMMS
— 12 —
FIGURE 12: ATTACHING AN ANCHOR PEG
To tie a treadle to the lower lamm, pass the treadle cord
through the corresponding hole in the lower lamm (Figure 11,
page 12). Fasten to the lower lamm through the loop with the
red mark, leaving the long tail end of the cord hanging.
Sitting behind the shafts facing the front of the loom, begin
the treadle tie-up with the treadle on the left (or the point
farthest away from the lower lamm pivot point). In the sample
tie-up draft in Figure 13, each X represents a rising shaft and
each blank space represents a sinking shaft. It is easiest to
tie all the rising shafts first. You will tie these to the lower
lamms (remember: “bottoms up”). Tie each treadle cord to the
corresponding hole in the lower lamm. Secure the cord with
a plastic anchor peg through the loop marked with the red
reference mark.
To complete the tie-up for this treadle, tie all the remaining
cords (marked with an X in the tie-up draft) to the upper
lamms, passing the cords in back of each lower lamm. (Note:
the Y-cords are in front of the lamms; the lamm cords are
in back of the lamms). Secure the anchor peg in the black
reference mark. You will notice that the back cords are tighter
than the front cords; this is as it should be.
Tie up the next treadle: Using the same process as for the
first treadle, tie up all of the rising shafts, marked with an X
in Figure 13. Then tie up all the sinking shafts (blanks in the
tie-up). Repeat for the remaining treadles.
INSTALLING AND USING THE DUST TRAY
Parts: dust tray with attached hardware
The meshing of the worm gear on your loom will cause wear
over time and slough off metal particles. The dust tray will
catch these particles. Clean off the tray periodically to protect
your floor and the loom.
After assembling your loom, attach the dust tray to the right
front upright below the worm gear. Detach the two 1/4-20
x 3-1/2" Phillips truss head machine screws and two 1/4-20
barrel nuts already attached to the dust tray and clamp.
1. Insert a 1/4-20 x 3-1/2" Phillips truss head machine screw
through the clamp (Figure 14).
2. Hold a barrel nut in the hole in the tray.
3. Insert the screw into the barrel nut and fasten loosely.
4. Repeat step 1 with the remaining screw. Position the tray
inside the right front upright and the clamp on the outer side,
as shown in Figure 14. Hold a barrel nut in the remaining hole
in the tray and fasten the screw into it.
5. Position the tray about 3" below the worm gear and tighten
both screws.
A
Note: For 8-shaft looms, your loom will function best if you tie
up at least eight treadles. If you don’t need eight treadles for
a particular tie-up, tie the treadles you are not using in tabby
or twill tie-ups until you have eight treadles tied; if they were
tied up for a previous weaving, leave them as they were. Now
remove the jack lock pins. The shafts will drop slightly from
the weight of the shafts and treadles.
1
X
2
3
B
X
X
4
X
FIGURE 13: SAMPLE TIE-UP
ADJUSTING THE TREADLE SEPARATOR BEAM
The treadle separator beam is used to regulate the size of the
sheds and to ease treadling. Adjust the treadle separator beam
on a gradual incline, higher on the left. To determine where
to adjust the beam, depress the leftmost treadle and look at
the shed from the side. It should be open as much as possible
but not hit the top or bottom of any shaft. Check each shed by
depressing each treadle in turn. Set the treadle support beam
for the optimal height side to side.
right front upright
worm gear
USING THE BRAKE HOLD
The brake hold is a rectangular piece of wood that hangs from
the peg on the right frame side over the brake release pedal
(see Figure 2 on page 6). It is used to hold the brake release
pedal down while you crank on the warp. The brake hold will
come stretch-wrapped into place. To engage the brake hold,
slide it out to the end of the peg so it is over the brake release
pedal. This will allow the warp beam to turn freely.
tray &
barrel nuts
clamp &
screws
FIGURE 14: INSTALLING THE DUST TRAY
— 13 —
Appendix A-1
POSITIONS OF SHAFTS, UPPER LAMMS, LOWER LAMMS,
AND TREADLES
One shaft, viewed from the front
hole for lock pin
hole for lock pin
shaft suspension cord
green mark
upper “stationary” lamm
pulls shaft directly down
lower lamm
makes shaft rise—“bottoms up”
42"
9"
7"
floor
This figure was originally provided by Madelyn van der Hoogt. It has
been edited to reflect the current design of the Cranbrook Loom.
— 14 —
Appendix A-2
POSITIONS OF SHAFTS, UPPER LAMMS, LOWER LAMMS,
AND TREADLES
VIEW FROM THE SIDE
reed
To open the same shed height at the fell, the
shafts must form a bigger shed the farther away
they are from the fell.
2"
3"
upper jacks
Y-cord
FRONT OF THE LOOM
The Y-cord (from the upper jacks to the lower lamm)
passes in back of the shaft and the upper lamm. The
cord from the treadle to the upper lamm passes in
front of the lower lamm.
shaft
upper lamm
lower lamm
If a treadle hits the lamms, lower the treadle that is hitting
by loosening all the cords that are tied to that treadle. Begin
with the tie-ups on the back shafts, since these are most
often the culprits.
— 15 —
treadle
Appendix B
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSES
SOLUTIONS
Shed won’t open.
Jack lock pins haven’t been removed.
Remove jack lock pins.
Tie-up cords are crossed.
Check to make sure treadle-lamm cords are tied in
appropriate holes.
Yoke cords are crossed.
Check to make sure the yoke cords are connected to
the corresponding lamm.
Loom treadles hard.
Treadles are hitting lower lamms.
Adjust shafts or treadles.
Shafts tilt.
Warp not in center.
Center warp.
Narrow warp
Tie warps at edges of apron rods.
Upper lamms not all tied in the black
mark.
Check tie-up cords to upper lamms.
Lower shed is uneven.
Lift up on shafts to determine which shaft is in error
and adjust the tie-up cord accordingly.
Upper shed is uneven.
Lower lamms are not all tied in red mark.
Check tie-up cords to lower lamms.
Lift up on shafts to determine which shaft is in error
and adjust the tie-up cord accordingly.
Shed is too small.
Treadles are hitting lower lamm.
Adjust the shafts.
The heddle eyes are not in the center of
the shed.
Raise or lower the shafts so that the warp passes
through the center of the heddle eye.
Warp does not go over back beam.
Take out beam and place under warp and reinsert
beam.
— 16 —
Appendix C
ADJUSTING THE SHED
PROCEED CAREFULLY, ADJUSTING YOUR CORDS ONE NOTCH AT A TIME AND TESTING.
ADJUSTING THE SHED BY ADJUSTING THE TIE-UP CORDS
■ If the upper shed (raised warps) is uneven:
Raise the threads by shortening the lower lamm cord of the errant shaft, by inserting the anchor peg one notch below
the red mark.
■ If the lower shed (sinking warps) needs to be adjusted:
Determine which shafts are errant and whether they need to be raised or lowered (that is, if shaft 2 is the only shaft that
is hanging above or below the other sinking warps, fix this one only). To adjust, either shorten or lengthen the tie-up
cord to the suspended (upper) lamm. To shorten the cord attach the anchor peg one notch below the black mark; to
lengthen, attach one notch above the black mark.
■ Lower lamm = rising shed = red mark on the cord (usually O in the tie-up)
Remember: bottoms up!
■ Upper lamm = sinking shed = black mark on the cord (the X in the tie-up)
ADJUSTING AN ENTIRE SHAFT
This adjustment will affect all the tie-ups for that shaft.
You can raise or lower an entire shaft by shortening or lengthening the upper lamm cords. Move one notch above or
below the green marks. Be sure to keep the shaft level.
FOR A LARGER SHED ON ALL SHAFTS
You can shorten the lower lamm cord. To shorten the lower lamm cord, insert the anchor peg one notch above the blue
mark.
— 17 —
Madelyn van der Hoogt
PO Box 1228
Coupeville, WA 98239
PH/FAX 360-678-6225
Countermarch (general) and Cranbrook (specific)
Loom length
The longer the loom, the less the relative difference in tension between raised/lowered warp threads and warp threads at rest.
Therefore, if the warp is held at maximum tension (as is desirable, especially for rugs), the longer the distance from front to back
beam, the less resistance the warp makes to forming the shed (and therefore the easier the treadling).
Rolling threading/tie-up bench
This is useful for threading (if threading from front to back) or for tying up the treadles before the loom is threaded (it is a little
hard to sit on it to tie up the treadles if the warp is in place since it is so high that you must bend your head under the warp). The
tie-up can be made before the loom is warped, however, since the texsolv notches to use for the tie-up can be standardized. Only a
few tie-up adjustments should be required after the loom is warped.
Extended pivoting position for lamms
This extension causes the lower lamms to pivot through a slightly shallower angle than if attached at the loom side, helping to
prevent interference between sinking lower lamms and rising treadles or between rising lower lamms and sinking upper lamms.
They are not even close to interfering (1" is the closest any of them come to each other on this loom).
Increased height of loom
This is an important improvement that allows sufficient space for pivoting lower lamms without their interference with rising
treadles or sinking upper lamms. (Also important in this loom design is the non-pivoting upper lamm which requires less space
for movement than would a pivoting upper lamm.)
Adding treadles
More than 10 treadles can be used (2 more without any difficulty, and perhaps even 4). If treadles are tied too close to the pivot
point of the lower lamm, it is more difficult to move the lamm. If treadles are tied too far away from the pivot point, rising treadles
are more likely to interfere with sinking lower lamms. There also may be a limitation as to how close to the ends of the upper
lamm a treadle can be tied without causing the shaft to tilt during treadling. (Tilting may also occur if the warp is much narrower
than the width of the treadles. Dummy warp ends can be added to the outer edges of the shafts to prevent tilting.)
Cords marked for standardized tie-up
Since they are further from the fell, shafts at the back must move more than shafts at the front to produce the same shed angle
at the fell. The treadle shape provides that the cords looped around the treadles are 2" shorter for the last shaft than for the
first (and graduated from back to front) so that as the treadle moves, it acts on the back shafts first and moves them more. The
notches to use for ties to upper and lower lamms can therefore be the same for each tie-up cord and can be marked to standardize
the tie-up (maximum shed size is 2-1/2").
Cord positions
Each cord that goes from a treadle to an upper lamm should pass in front of the corresponding lower lamm for its shaft. (Each Y
cord should pass from the lower lamm to the upper jacks behind the upper lamm and its corresponding shaft.) Cords to upper
lamms should not pass through the holes in the lower lamms.
Tying up your Cranbrook
These directions assume that the notches are pre-marked for hanging the shafts to the upper jacks, for attaching the Y cords to
the upper jacks and lower lamms, and for tying the treadles to the upper lamms (black) or lower lamms (red). All heddles must be
the same standard size. All ties are completed with the locking pins in place.
1. Hang the shafts from the upper jacks. (Hang all shafts and lamms whether or not they will be used. Immobilize unused shafts
by keeping the locking pins in their corresponding upper jacks during weaving.)
2. Attach the upper lamms to the lower shaft bars.
— 18 —
3. Attach the Y cords to the upper jacks. Suspend the Y cords from the upper jacks so that each cord passes behind its
corresponding shaft.
4. Place lower lamms on lamm pivot rod.
5. Attach Y cord to each lower lamm (pass cord through hole in lamm and attach with clip below lamm).
6. Suspend the treadles from treadle pivot rod. (It is a good idea to position all the treadles whether you are using them all or
not.)
7. Loop tie-up cords around all treadles for all shafts (marked black notches should be at end of cord farthest from the loop.)
8. Tie treadles to lamms according to tie-up. Every cord on every treadle is attached to either a lower lamm (to make the shaft
go up—BOTTOMS UP!) or an upper lamm (to make the shaft go down). A cord tied to an upper lamm must pass in front of the
corresponding lower lamm for its shaft (not through a hole in the lower lamm). To tie, pass the cord up through the appropriate
lamm hole, push the tab on the texsolv clip through the marked notch (black for upper lamms, red for lower), and stick the two
legs of the clip down into the hole in the lamm.
9. Remove the locking pins. It is important that the down shed be even so that the shuttle can travel smoothly from selvedge
to selvedge. It doesn’t really matter if the upper shed is uneven; it must only be big and clean enough for the shuttle to travel
through. Adjustments can be made if the shed is not even enough.
10. Step on each treadle to check each shed. If any shaft does not go down (or up) enough, tighten the tie for that shaft on that
treadle (i.e., make the cord shorter by moving the clip one notch closer to the treadle). If any shaft moves up or down too much
more than the others, loosen the tie for that shaft (move the clip one notch away from the treadle). Remember that any clip you
move will only affect that shaft on that treadle; you can’t wreck anything by moving a clip.
11. The loom will function best if you tie up at least eight treadles. If you don’t need that many for a particular tie-up, tie the
treadles you are not using (up to eight) as though they are weaving an even/odd tabby (alternately evens/odds up/down) (or, if
they were tied-up for some previous weaving, leave them as they were).
12. Sometimes the front shafts sag when the loom is at rest—their heddles will appear loose. This can be counteracted by tying
one treadle (usually the one farthest from the pivot point) to the lower lamms for that shaft(s) and weighting it if necessary. This
sagging is not a problem except with very fine warps—the sagging heddles can catch on adjacent threads, pulling them counter to
the movement of their own shafts during treadling, causing them to break.
Miscellaneous
1. Note that the upper lamm tilts slightly upward as it moves away from the pivot point. The treadles will therefore rise slightly
higher as they are further away from the pivot point.
2. It is important that the warp be centered in the loom. There should be as many warp ends to the right of the Y cord as to the
left.
3. If heddles don’t slide easily on the shaft bars, tie a cord around the shafts at each side so that the shaft bars move slightly
closer together, loosening the heddles on the shafts (this may not be necessary on the Cranbrook; I couldn’t tell how easy it is to
slide the heddles).
4. For very fine warps, the texsolv Y cords can be too rough. They can be replaced with a smooth dacron fish line or other
material (or covered with a plastic tube) or some other method devised to insure that they do not rub or catch on the warp.
5. Beater height: the warp should be in the middle of the reed at rest.
6. Beater position (forward or back): I don’t personally find it necessary to have many positions for the beater. The best spot
allows maximum shed formation without too much pushing back of the beater. It is best to advance the warp often and beat in
approximately the same place throughout weaving.
— 19 —
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