Reliant ROBIN 850 Workshop Manual

Contents
General Specification
Lubrication and maintenance
Section A
Frame
B
Front suspension
c
Rear suspension
D
Steering
E
Cooling system
F
Engine
G
Gearbox
H
Clutch
J
Driveshaft
K
Rear axle
L
Brakes
M
Road wheels
N
Exhaust system
p
Fuel system
Q
Body
R
Interior
s
Heater
T
Electrics
u
Windscreen washer
v
Optional extras
Tightening torques
INTRODUCTION
In accordance with the Reliant Motor
Company's policy of continuous design
improvement. it has been necessary to include
this supplement in the Robin Saloon and Van
Workshop Manual.
The supplement covers the changes made to
the vehicle from chassis No. 5J/8A/1 0015J /8A/11 51 and chassis No. 5J3/13201152
onwards, with the introduction of the 850
engine.
This supplement prin~d on coloured paper is
intended to be read in conjunction with the
existing Workshop Manual. 'R' Part No. 90293.
A comprehensive stock of spare parts are
available from Reliant Dealers. A spare parts
list is available for use when ordering. Only
genuine Reliant 'R' Parts should be used:
'R' Part Number 91769
ROBIN850
Workshop Manual
Suppl·ement
Service Department
Reliant Motor Company Limited,
Two Gates, Tamworth, Staffordshire
Telephone: Tamworth 4151
Telex: 341051
Parts Supply Department
The Reliant Motor Company Limited
Lynn Lane, Shenstone, Staffordshire
Telephone: Shenstone 480671
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
General specification
Engine
No. of cylinders
Bore of cylinders
Stroke of crankshaft
Cubic capacity
Compression ratio and pressure
Valve clearance
Inlet
Exhaust
4 in line
62·50mm (2·46in)
69·09mm (2·72in)
848cc (51·75cu. in.)
9·5:1 at 140 psi
Cold
Hot
0·25mm (0·01 Oin) 0·152 mm (0·006 in)
0·25mm (0·010in) 0·152mm (0·006in)
Performance data
Brake horse-power (max)
Torque (max)
40·00 at 5,500 rpm
5·53kgm (461bft) at 3,500 rpm
Lubrication system
Pump
Filter
Oil pressure
Submerged eccentric rotor type
External full flow type
3·16kg/sqcm (451b/sqin)
Gearbox
Four forward speeds and reverse, synchromesh on all forward gears.
Ratios
Top
1 ·000:1
3rd
1·320:1
2nd
2·050:1
1st
3·880:1
Reverse 3·250:1
Rear axle
Type
Ratio
Brakes
System
Spiral bevel gear, semi-floating
3·23:1
Size- front
-rear
Hand brake
Hydraulically operated internal expanding
to all wheels
177·8 x 38·1 mm (7 x 1·50in)
177·8 x 31·75mm (7 x 1·25in)
Lever type operating rear brakes mechanically
Ignition
1 2 volt battery and coil
Contact breaker gap
Spark plugs - type
-gap
Firing order
Ignition timing
Negative earth
0·38 mm (0·015 in)
Motorcraft AG R 32
0·64 mm (0·025 in)
1, 3, 4, 2
T.D.C.
Cooling system
Pressurised radiator, pump assisted circulation and three-bladed fan driven by a ·v· belt from
engine pulley.
Radiator cap pressure
0·49kg/sqcm(7·01b/sqin)
Fuel system
Carburettor
Fuel pump
Air cleaner
Clutch
Type
Operation
S.U. semi-downdraught HS2 1-!
Mechanical type
Paper element type
Spring pressure plate assembly with single
dry plate
Cable
1
General Specification
2
Suspension
Front
Rear
Patented leading arm suspension controlled
by heavy duty coil spring and hydraulic
damper unit
Long semi-elliptical double leaf spring, rubber
mounted with double acting hydraulic shock
absorber and anti-roll bar
Steering
Type
Turning circle
Worm and peg
8·23m (27·0ft)
Chassis data
Type
Wheelbase
Track,
Ground clearance
Box section with tubular cross members
2159 mm (85·0 in)
1244·6mm (49·0in)
127mm (5·0in)
Exterior dimensions
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Loading height
Saloon
3327-4mm (131·0in)
1422·4mm (56·0in)
1371·6mm (54·0in)
990·6mm (39·0in)
(Ground to tailgate sill)
1028·7mm (40·5in)
Load width - maximum
(Width at tailgate sill)
Load height-;-maximum aperture 457·2mm (19·0in)
(Tailgate aperture height)
Load height - maximum
Inside vehicle
863·6mm (34·0in)
Length behind rear seat
584·2mm (23·0in)
(up to spare wheel)
1079·5mm (42·5in)
Length with rear seat folded
(up to spare wheel)
Length oi floor platform
Load floor width behind rear seat 965·2 mm (38·0in)
Load capacities
Saloon - Capacity of boot area, rear seat up, spare wheel in
position below tonneau cover
Saloon<-- Capacity of rear compartment with rear seat folded,
spare wheel in position, up to roof level
Van Total c·apacity of rear area, with spare wheel in
position, and the front passenger area
Van Capacity of complete rear compartment, with spare
wheel in position
Van
3327·4 mm (131·0 in)
1422·4mm (56·0in)
1371·6 mm (54·0 in)
533-4mm (21·0in)
(Ground to van floor)
850·9mm (33·5in)
(Rear door aperture)
762·0mm (30·0in)
(Rear door aperture)
889·0mm (35·0in)
~93·1 mm (26·5 in)
1168·4mm (46·0in)
1219·2mm (49·0in)
965·2mm (38·0in)
0·2306cu m (8·5cuft)
0·849cu m (30·0cuft)
1·416cum (50·0cuft)
1·132cu m (40·0cuft)
Kerb weight
Saloon
Van
. Gross recommended vehicle weight
436kg (9621b)
436 kg (9621b)
793·78kg (17501b)
Capacities
Engine (including filter)
Gearbox
Rear axle
Steering box
Cooling system, including heater
Fuel tank
3·13 litres (5·50 pints)
0·64 litres (1·125 pints)
1·28 litres (2·25 pints)
0·19 litres (0·33 pints)
2·84 litres (5 pints)
27·27 litres (6 gallons)
Tyres
Type
Size - Standard
-Optional
Crossply (tubeless)
5.20 X 10
5 ..90 X 10
1
Lubrication and maintenance
Figure 1
Lubrication points
1 Rear axle filler/level plug
2 Gearbox filler/level plug
3 Steering box
4 Oil filler cap - engine
5 Front hub
6 Fron t suspension - swivel pin
7 Oil filter
8 Master cylinder
9 Handbrake cable
10 Propshaft
Oil
Oil
Oil
Oil
Grease
Grease
Renew
Top up fluid
Grease
Grease
Lubrication points
Grease gun points
The grease gun non-return lubricators, shown in
Figure 1 should be well cleaned of dirt and old
grease before application of a high pressure
grease gun. Use only the grease shown on the
recommended lubricant chart on page 4.
Service schedu le
The operations listed below should be carried out
at the mi leages shown or at the equivalent
monthly intervals, whichever occu r first.
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l ubrication
Check and top up engine oil leve l
Change engine oi l
X
X
X
Check and top up gearbox oil level
X
X
X
X
X
X
Change gearbox oil
X
Check and top up rear axle oi l
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check and top up steering box oil level
X
X
X
X
X
X
Oil or grease all lubrication points
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Lubrication and maintenance
2
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Clean oil filler cap, check air cleaner element
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Repack front wheel bearings
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X
Adjustments
Tighten all cylinder head, rocker shaft, sump
and manifold fixings to correct torques
X
X
X
X
Check and adjust valve clearances
X
X
X
X
Check and adjust fan belt tension check for
wear
X
X
X
X
Examine and adjust distributor points, renew
if necessary
X
X
X
X
X
X
Clean coil, distributor cap and H.T. leads
X
X
X
Remove and clean carburettor
X
X
X
Clean and adjust sparking plugs
X
X
X
v
Renew sparking plugs
"'
Check hydraulic system, bleed and top up
master cylinder as necessary
Check and top up master cylinder ?S necessary
X
X
Inspect brake system for leaks and hoses
for chafing
X
X
X
X
Examine brake linings for wear, blow out
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Adjust brakes
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check and adjust clutch
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check security of wheels
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check front wheel bearings, adjust if necessary
X
X
X
X
Check all body, suspension nuts and bolts,
and steering connections
X
X
X
X
Check door operation, hinges and lock
X
X
X
X
X
X
Adjust pressures and check condition of tyres
X
General
Top up battery
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Top up radiator coolant level
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check battery connections
Check for water and oil leaks
X
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Replace air cleaner element
Change oil filter
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Lubrication and maintenance
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Check all controls, lights, horn, instruments,
windscreen wiper, etc.
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Check headlamp alignment
Check windscreen washer reservoir
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Road test
Adjust carburettor and ignition as necessary
X
X
X
X
X
X
Check brake function
X
X
X
X
X
X
Every 36,000 miles (60,000km) the hydraulic
braking system should be overhauled, checking
all bundy pipes and replace all flexible hoses.
Replace brake wheel and master cylinder seals, or
replace the units. Change the hydraulic brake fluid.
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Approved lubricants (Winter and Summer)
I
Mobil
Castro I
Esso
B.P.
Shell
Petrofina
Duckhams
Regent Texaco 1
Mobiloil
Super or
Mobiloil
Special
20W/50
Castro lite
Castro I
GTX
Esso Extra
Motor Oil
10W/30 or
Uniflo
B.P. Super
Viscostatic
10W/40 or
Energol SAE
20W
Shell
Super
Motor Oil
Fin a
Multigrade
Motor Oil
10W/30 or
20W/50
Q
Havoline
Motor Oil
10W/30 or
20W/50
Mobilube
GX 80
Castro I
Hypoy
Light
Esso Gear
Oil GX 80
Gear Oil
SAE 80 EP
Spirax
80 EP
Fin a
Pontonic
MP SAE 80
Hypoid 80
Rear axle
·Mobilube
GX 90
Castro I
Hypoy
Esso Gear
Oil GX
90/140
Gear Oil
SAE 90 EP
Spirax
90 EP
Fin a
Pontonic
MP SAE 90
Hypoid 90
Multigear
Lubricant
EP 90
Steering box
Mobilube
GX 80
Castrol.
Hypoy
Light
Esso Gear
Oil GX 80
Gear Oil
SAE 80 EP
Spirax
80 EP
Fin a
Pontonic
MP SAE 80
Hypoid 80
Multigear
Lubricant
EP 80
Front hub
Mobilgrease
MP
Castro I
LM
Grease
Esso
Multi-purpose
Grease H
Energrease
L2
Retinax A
Fin a
Marson
HTL 2
LB 10
Grease
Marfak
All
Purpose
Grease gun
(Chassis)
Mobilgrease
Super
Castro I
MS3
Grease
Esso MP
Grease
(Moly)
Energrease
L21M
Shell
Retinax AM
Fin a
Marson
LM2
LBM 10
Grease
Molytex
Grease 2
Brake reservoir
Castrol Girling Fluid (Crimson)
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Section A
The frame
Checking for squareness 2
The frame
1
Section A
249·0mm
250·0m
9·80")
9·85'1
!
291·0 mm (11-45")
292-()mm (11-50")
173-0mm (6·81")
114·0mm (6·85")
0
Figure 1
Frame checking dimensions
8
B
Figure 2
Frame checking diagram
D
The frame
Section A
Checking for squareness
1 Reference to Figure 1 shows the critical
points by which the Saloon and Van chassis
should be checked for squareness. Transfer
these points to the floor and letter them as
shown in Figure 2.
2 Connect the letters in pairs by drawing a
line between them, using a straight edge, AA,
BB, CC and DD, as shown.
3 Measure from each point in turn to the
centre and join up all centres thus producing a
centre datum line XX. The diagram on the floor
should then be similar to Figure 2.
4 A further check on squareness must be made
by joining up all the diagonals, the lengths of
which must be equal, and bisect each other on
the datum line.
Chassis distortion is always assessed by the
amount and direction of any transverse or
diagonal lines from the datum line.
Severe damage to the chassis frame is readily
apparent. In some cases, however, lesser damage
may cause distortion of the frame, which may
not be easily detected by visual inspection.
Even when the vehicle has suffered only
superficial damage it is possible that the frame
members may have been displaced, causing
misalignment of the road wheels.
It is recommended that the alignment of the
front and rear suspension attachment points is
checked including wheelbase dimensions.
See General Specification.
All components including front suspension and
rear road springs must be removed to provide
access to the checking points. The checking
must be carried out on a surface table or level
floor.
2
Section B
Front Suspension
Routine maintenance 2
Front hubs 2
Stub axle assembly 3
Damper unit 4
Radius arm assembly 5
Figure 1
.,
Front suspension
~
1 Front suspension un1t
2 Ferrule bush
3 Ferrule sleeve
4 Bolt
5 Nut
6 Radius arm
7 Bush. radius arm
8 Cap. radius arm
9 Set screw. radius arm
10 Lockwasher. radius arm
11 Nut. radius arm
12 Stub axle
1 3 Swivel pin
14 Taper pin
15 Lubricator. swivel pin.
16 Bush. swivel pin top
17 Bush. swivel pin bottom
18 Thrust washer. swivel pin
19 Peg. thrust washer
20 Thrust washer. stub axle
21 Welch plug. swivel pin
22 Front hub
23 Wheel stud
24 Retaining washer hub
25 Nut. front hub
26 Split pin, nut
27 Locking device. hub nut
28 Cap. front hub
•
29 Bearing. front hub outer
30 Bearing. front hub inner
31 Felt. oil seal
32 Retainer
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Front suspension
Section B
Description
Front suspension is provided by a Reliant
Motor Group patented leading arm design
controlled by a heavy duty combined coil spring
and damper unit.
Chassis mounting is by means of two rubber
bushes and caps locating onto brackets welded
to the chassis front cross member. A bracket
on the upper cross member provides a mounting
for the damper unit.
Routine maintenance
2
4 Locate outer bearing track in the hub, again
ensuring that it is firmly and squarely seated.
Then insert taper bearing into bearing track.
5 Position front hub assembly on the stub
axle and secure w ith ·o· washer and fir UNF
nut, tightening until all resistance is taken up
when turning the hub.
6 Slacken the nut back until a bearing end
float of between 0·051 - 0·152mm (0·0020·006 in) is obtained. A dial gauge is preferable
for this operation, but if not available. slacken
off retaining nut half a flat. equivalent of 30°
(see Figure 2) .
Other than the greasing of the swivel pin and
periodic examination for signs of damage and
wear the front suspension assembly requires no
attention except for regular cleaning.
Before dismantling any part of the suspension
assembly, jack up the front of the vehicle under
the chassis side member and fit suitable stands.
Front hub and bearings
To remove (see Figure 1 )
1 Slacken off the front brake adjustment
(see Section L) .
2 Unscrew~ UNF countersunk screw and
remove brake drum.
3 Prise out the hub cap and remove split pin
from locking ring and stub axle shaft.
Figure 2
Slackening of hub retaining nut
4 Remove locking ring and unscrew front hub
retaining nut.
5 Withdraw front hub assembly complete
with ' 0 ' washer, inner and outer taper bearings,
and oil seal.
6 Remove outer taper bearing and then tap
out bearing track from hub using a suitable drift.
7 Using the same drift from inside the hub tap
out the inner bearing track. complete with
bearing and oil seal.
8 Check components for wear and replace if
necessary for subsequent reassembly.
To reassemble
1 Locate inner bearing track in its housing in
the hub and ensure it is firmly and squarely
seated. Then insert taper bearing into bearing
track.
2
Firmly fit oil seal and reta iner in hub.
3 Repack t he front hub with the approved
grease in the area between the inner bearing
and outer bearing location.
Figure 3 Centre punch marks on retaining nut
and stub axle shaft
1 Centre punch marks
2 Retaining ring
3 Split pin
Front suspension
Section B
7 Mark the position by centre punching the
nut and stub axle (see Figure 3).
8 Fit locking ring over retaining nut ensuring
two of the castelations line up with the split
pin hole in the stub axle shaft. Then fit split pin
to lock hub retaining nut.
9 Move the hub assembly to ensure end float
is still apparent.
10
3
6 Remove two set screws and lockwashers
and then slide the brake plate assembly back
onto the radius arm.
7 Drill a small hole in the two welch plugs
which are located in the top and bottom of the
swivel pin housing of the stub axle. The plugs
can then be prised free.
8 Tap out the taper pin, securing the swivel
pin in position, using a suitable drift.
Refit hub cap.
11 Replace brake drum, retaining with single
:\ UNF countersunk screw and readjust front
brake.
12 Refit front wheel, remove stands and jack
down the vehicle.
Stub axle assembly
To remove and dismantle (see Figure 1 )
1 Jack up the front of the vehicle and fit
suitable stands.
2 Remove front hub assembly as described in
previous operation.
9 Using MCA tool No. P176 as shown in
Figure 4 or a suitable drift remove the swivel
pin from the stub axle.
10 Separate the stub axle from pivot arm and
remove top and bottom thrust washers, including
pegged thrust washer.
11 Remove swivel pin bushes from stub axle
using Tool No. RT 7904 on a suitable drift
(see Figure 5) .
12 Check the swivel pin and bushes for wear
replacing if necessary for subsequent
re-assembly. The two welch plugs, having been
drilled, will need replacing.
3 Disconnect brake fluid flexible hose at the
mounting bracket bolted to the steering arm.
Plug the hose to prevent loss of fluid and ingress
of dirt.
4 Unscrew i UNF nut, complete with plain
washer and disconnect track rod from steering
arm.
5 Unscrew the short and long -Ptr UNF bolts,
complete with lockwashers, and remove steering
arm from brake back plate and stub axle, noting
position of flexible brake hose mounting bracket.
Figure 5
Swivel pin bush removal
To re-assemble and replace
1 Locate new swivel pin bushes in stub axle
housing using Tool No. RT 7904 (see Figure 6).
Ensure the lubrication holes of the bushes align
with those of the grease nipples.
Figure 4
Swivel pin removal
2 Before complete re-assembly check the fit
of the swivel pin. If the fit is obviously too
tight the bushes should be reamed out w ith
Tool No. RT 7919 as shown in Figure 7 until
a tight push fit is obtaioed.
Front suspension
4
Section 8
8 Positiion flexible brake hose mounting
bracket; then secure steering arm to stub axle
and brake back plate with long and short
-fs UNF bolts and lockwashers.
9
Reconnect steering arm to track rod with
i UNF nut and plain washer.
10 Reconnect flexible brake hose at mounting
plate.
11 Refit front hub assembly, as described
earlier in this section. Refit brake drum and road
wheel and readjust brakes.
12 Jack down the vehicle, remove stands and
bleed the brake hydraulic system. see Section L.
Damper unit
Figure 6
Swivel pin bush replacement
3 Position the square thrust washers in the
stub axle housing, ensuring they are seated
squarely over the swivel pin bushes.
4 Fit the round thrust washer to the pivot arm
and check that the thrust washer pegs are
securely located.
5 Locate the stub axle over the pivot arm, tap
in the swivel pin and secure in position with
the taper pin. Seal the top and bottom of the
swivel with new welch plugs.
6 Lubricate the swivel pin with recommended
grease through the two grease nipples located at
the top and bottom of the stub axle housing.
7 Refit brake back plate to stub axle securing
in position with two -h UNF set screws and
lockwashers.
Figure 7
Reaming of swivel pin bushes
To remove (see Figure 1)
1 Remove ! UNF bolt and self locking nut
and release damper unit from radius arm
mounting bracket.
2 Repeat operation at damper unit mounting
on chassis upper cross member and remove unit
from the vehicle.
3 Check top and bottom ferrule bushes and
sleeves for wear replacing if necessary.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Radius arm assembly
To remove (complete with stub axle and
hub assembly)
1 Jack up the vehicle and fit suitable stands.
2 Disconnect the flexible brake hose at the
mounting bracket bolted to the steeri ng arm.
Front suspension
Section B
Plug the hose to prevent loss of brake fluid and
ingress of dirt.
3 Unscrew i UNF nut, complete with plain
washer and disconnect track rod from steering
arm.
4 Remove lower bolt and self locking nut and
disconnect damper unit from its housing on the
the radius arm.
5 Remove i UN F set screws nuts and
lockwashers and detach the two caps and rubber
bushes securing the radius arm assembly to the
lower chassis cross member.
6 The radius arm assembly, complete with
stub axle and hub assembly can be withdrawn
from the vehicle and dismantled as required.
7 Replace in reverse order, remove stands,
jack down the vehicle and bleed the brake
hydraulic system.
5
Section C
Rear Suspension
Routine maintenance 1
Leaf spring 1
Damper unit ?
Anti-roll bar 2
Bump stop 2
Rear suspension
Description
Rear suspension is provided by damper assisted
single taper leaf springs and an anti-roll bar.
The rear of the springs are suspended and
pivotted on shackles attached to the chassis.
Four 'U' bolts secure the springs to the rear
axle. The damper units are secured to
mountings on the rear axle and chassis
crossmember tube.
Routine maintenance
The rubber bushes of the damper units, leaf
springs and rear shackles should be kept clear
of oil and grease and should be replaced when
any signs of wear are apparent.
Figure 1
Section C
Periodically check the damper units to ensure
full movement is obtained. A siezed unit will
only give minimal movement and result in a
hard ride.
Leaf spring
To remove (see Figure 1)
1 Jack up the vehicle under the axle
differential, fit suitable stands under the chassis
and remove road wheel.
2 Unscrew four i UNF nuts and locknuts,
remove the two ·u· bolts securing axle to
leaf spring.
3 Remove! UNF bolts and self locking nuts
securing leaf spring to rear shackle and chassis
mounting.
Rear suspension
1 Rear spring
2 Bush
3 Bolt
4 Nut
5 Washer
6 ·u· bolt. spnng to axle
13 Shackle
14 Bush
15 Bolt. shackle to fra me
16 Nut. shackle to frame
17 Washer. shackle to frame
10 Bump stop
18 Bolt. spring to shackle
19 Nut. spring to shackle
20 Rear damper
21 Bush
22 Bolt. damper to frame
11 Lockwasher
12 Nut
23 Washer. damper to frame
24 Nut. d amper to frame
7 Nut. spri ng to axle
8 Locknu t. spri ng to axle
9 Clamp plate. rear spring
25 Bolt. damper to axle
26 Nut. damper to axle
27 Spacer. damper to axle
28 Washer. damper to axle
29 Anti-roll bar
30 Clamp
31 Set screw. clamp
32 Lockwasher. clamp
33 Bush. anti-roll bar
34 Link assembly R.H.
35 Lockwasher. link
36 Nut. link
1
Rear suspension
Section C
Note: To withdraw R.H. fixing bolt it is
necessary to remove the fuel tank (see
section P).
4 Swing the anti-roll bar link clamping
bracket rearwards and then remove leaf spring
from the vehicle.
5
R~peat operation for other side if necessary.
6
Replace in reverse order.
Damper unit
To remove (see Figure 1)
1 Remove i UN F nut and bolt securing
damper unit to chassis frame mounting.
2 Unscrew i UNF nut and bolt complete
with spacer and remove damper unit from rear
axle mounting bracket.
3 Replace in reverse order ensuring the damper
spacer is located between damper and axle
mounting bracket.
Anti-roll bar
To remove (see Figure 1)
1 Remove 176 UNF nut complete with
lockwasher and detach R.H. anti-roll bar link
from mounting bracket on top of leaf spring.
Repeat operation for L.H. link.
2 Unscrew four -l UNF sets screws, complete
with lockwashers and remove the two anti-roll
bar fixing clamps and rubber bushes from the
chassis mounting brackets.
3 The anti-roll bar complete with links, can
then be removed from the vehicle.
4 A / 6 UNF nut and lockwasher secure the
links to the anti-roll bar.
5
Replace in reverse order.
Bump stop
A fixing stud is moulded into the two rubber
bump stops which are secured to mounting
brackets on the chassis by ,S6 UNF nuts and
lockwashers.
2
Section D
Steering
Routine maintenance 1
Steering box assembly and steering column 1
Steering
Section D
Description
The steering mechanism comprises of a sing le
stage worm on the end of the lower column
supported by two ball races located in the
steering box housing. Engaging the worm is a
spherical ended peg mounted in a ball race
housed in the rocker shaft which in turn supports
a drop arm linked to a track rod. The track rod
is connected to a steering arm bolted to the
stub axle of the front suspension assembly.
The upper column, supported by a short outer
column secured to the engine bulkhead, is
clamped to a spline on the lower column.
Worm and peg wear can be taken up by the
rotation of the adjuster screw. End play in the
column can be eliminated by removing one or
more shims located behind the steering box
end plate.
1
3 Remove two No. 10 set screws and
lockwashers and detach multi-switch cover and
its retaining clamp from steering column.
4 Unscrew the two multi -switch fixing
screws and remove fixing clamp, multi-switch,
spacer and indicator cam from column.
5 Remove two i UN F screws, hexagon nuts,
plain washers and lockwashers from outer
steering column clamping bracket. Pull the
clamping bracket with ignition switch attached,
to one side with multi-switch to facilitate next
operation.
6 Remove i UNF set screw and self locking
nut and disconnect outer column from support
bracket secured to the body.
7 Unscrew -h UNF bolt and self locking nut
to slacken the clamp securing upper column
to the spline of the lower column.
Routine maintenance
The steering box oil level should be checked
at regular intervals (see Service Schedule) and
topped up, if necessary, at the filler plug (see
Figure 1 ) .
Steering box assembly and steering
column
T o remove (see Figure 2)
1 Prise off steering wheel crash pad and
remove~ UNF nut and plain washer secu ring
wheel to the steering column.
2 Remove steering wheel from the splined
shaft of the steering column.
8 Remove the support grommet from its
location in the footwall and then withdraw
upper steering column, including outer column,
into the vehicle interior.
9 Jack up the front of the vehicle and fit
stands under both sides of the chassis.
10 Remove i UNF self locking nut and plain
washer and disconnect track rod from drop arm.
11 Unscrew three i UN F set screws complete
with washers and remove steering box assembly
from its chassis mounting bracket.
T o dismantle (see Figu re 2)
1 Drain the oil from steering box assembly.
2 Remove ~ UNF nut and plain washer and
disconnect drop arm from the taper spline of
the rockershaft using an extractor tool as shown
in Figure 3.
N ot e: Do not attempt to remove the drop arm
by hammering or levering it from the spline.
3 Unscrew four securing bolts, complete with
lockwashers, and remove steering housing
cover plate and gasket.
4 Withdraw rockershaft assembly, which
includes peg and ball bearings from steering
box. The follower peg is retained in the
rockershaft by a circlip, plain washer and
locking washer and is removed, complete with
bearings.
Figur e 1
1 Filler plug
2 Adjuster
Steering box oil filler plug
5 Remove three bolts and lockwashers and
detach steering box end plate and packing
shims.
Steering
Figure 2
Section D
2
Steering box and w hee l
1 Steering box
2 Gasket. cover to box
3 Gasket. end plate
4 Shims
5 Bush. rocker shaft
6 Bush, inner column
7 Bearing. upper worm
8 Bearing, lower worm
9 Oil seal. rocker shaft
10 Oil seal. upper
11 Oil seal. lower
12 Drop arm
13 Set screw. box to frame
14 Washer, box to frame
15 Steenng column
16 Bolt. colu mn to box
17 Nut. C'Jiumn to box
18 Bracket. colum n s.upport
19 Set screw. colum n to bracket
20 Nut. column to bracket
21 Coachwasher. bracket to body
22 Nut, bracket to body
23 Grommet
24 Clamp bush
25 Bracket. column to fascia
26 Screw. bracket to fascia
27 Washer. bracket t o fascia
28 Lockwasher. bracket to fascia
29 Nut. bracket to fascia
30 Track rod
31 Gaiter
32 Chp
33 Nut, track rod
34 Washer. track rod
35 Steenng arm
36 Bolt. steering arm
37 Bolt. steering arm
38 Steenng wheel
39 Crash pad
40 Cam. multi-switch
41 Nut. wheel to column
42 Washer. wheel 10 column
Steering
3
Section D
column ensuring the pegs of the bushes are
firmly seated in the column location holes.
2 Slide rubber support bush over outer column,
if removed during dismantling.
3 Carefully insert the top of the upper column
into outer column. Check that the nylon bushes
of outer column have not been disturbed.
4 Fit a new rockershaft bush in steering box
housing positioning flush with oil seal seating
face.
5 Locate new rockershaft oil seal in steering
box housing, with metal ring facing inwards.
6 Fit upper bearing track using a suitable drift,
followed by nylon oil seal. Ensu re oil seal firmly
abuts bearing track.
Figure 3 Disconnecting drop arm from rocker
shaft spline
7 Smear upper bearing track liberally with
grease and locate ball bearings.
6 Remove retaining washer and lower ball
race from steering box taking care not to
misplace the bearings.
8 Carefully insert lower steering column and
worm into steering box housing from end plate
end and locate in lower and upper bearings.
7 Withdraw lower steering column and worm
through lower bearing aperture.
9 Smear bearing track with grease and
locate ball bearings.
8 From inside steering box and using a suitable
drift drive out the nylon oi l seal.
10 Locate lower bearing track in steering box
housing followed by retaining washer.
9 Using the same drift tap the upper bearing
into steering box housing. The bearings and
bearing track can then be removed through
cover plate aperture. Take care not to misplace
the bearings.
11 Position packing shims and then secu re
end plate to steering box with three bolts and
lockwashers.
10 Drive out rockershaft bush and oil sea l
from steering box housing .
11
Check the components for wear.
Note : Only the cover plate gasket. bearings,
bushes, oil seals and shims of the internal
components of the steering box are available
as replacement parts. Therefore, if the rockershaft.
follower peg and lower steering column worm
and spline are excessively worn a new steering
box assemblv will have to be fitted.
12 Slide the outer column tube from upper
steering column.
13 Press in retaining lugs and remove nylon
bushes from outer column and check for wear
replaci ng if necessary for subsequent
reassembly. Check also the condition of the
rubber bush fitted over the column.
To reassemble
1 Fill the reservoirs of the nylon bushes with
fresh grease and then f it bushes in outer
12 Insert rockershaft assembly. ensuring the
follower peg is located in the centre of the lower
column worm.
13 Fit a new gasket and then secure cover
plate to steering box with four bolts and
lock washers.
14 Reconnect drop arm to rockershaft spline.
securing with flf UNF nut and plain washer.
15
oil.
Refill steering box with the recommended
To replace
1 Secure steering box assembly to chassis
mounting bracket with three i UNF set screws
and lockwashers.
2 Reconnect track rod to drop arm f ixing
with i UNF self locking nut and plain washer.
3 Locate upper column support grommet in
footwall aperture.
4 From inside the vehicle carefully slide the
upper column through SL!PPOrt grommet and
Steering
Section D
locate column clamp over the spline of the
lower column.
5 Retighten clamp fixing bolt and self locking
nut to secure upper and lower column.
6 Remove chassis stands and jack down the
vehicle.
7
Slide outer column down upper column
until the bracket on the column abuts the
support bracket bolted to the engine bulkhead.
8 Secure outer column to support bracket
with -a UNF set screw and self locking nut.
9 Locate outer column in its seating under
fascia, with rubber bush, and secure in position
with clamping bracket, two~ UNF set screws
nuts, plain washers and lockwashers.
10 Fit indicator bush, spacer, multi-switch
and clamp and secure to outer column with
two set screws.
11 Using two No. 1 0 set screws and
lockwashers secure cover to multiswitch.
12 Ensuring the front road wheel is in the
straight ahead position secure steering wheel
on upper column spline with 196 UNF nut and
plain washer.
Note: The steering wheel should be fitted with
spokes in an inverted 'Y' position.
13 Press crash pad onto the centre boss of
steering wheel.
14
The steering mechanism should then be
checked to ensure all end float and slackness in
column rotation has been eliminated. If not
remove one or two shims behind steering box
end plate and/or tighten the follower peg in
lower column worm by rotating the adjuster
screw.
Note: When the latter operation is undertaken
the front road wheel must be in its straight
ahead position.
If, after the adjustment procedures described
above have been carried out, stiff steering is
experienced check whether the stub axle swivel
pin has been adequately greased.
4
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
Steering
Section D
Steering
(from chassis No. 607/133078066E2/12208748)
On the above range of Robin 850 vehicles a
modified upper inner steering column was
fitted. The modified column has a splined
lower end which connects,to the steering box
inner column and worm using a flexible
coupling. A pinch bolt and nut secures the
flexible coupling to the splined end of the
upper inner column and steering box inner
column and worm.
Also on the above range of vehicles, to
facilitate the fitting of the flexible coupling,
the rubber gaiter through which the steering
column passes was fitted the opposite way
round to locate in its footwall position from
underneath the vehicle.
Steering box and column·
To remove (Figure 1)
1 following instructions in the existing
Robin workshop manual, remove the steering
wheel crash pad, steering wheel, multi-switch
cover and clamp, multi-switch, indicator cam,
outer steering column clamping bracket and
the outer column from its support bracket
secured to the body.
2 Remove the-fa UNF pinch bolt and binx
nut securing the flexible coupling to the
splined end of the upper inner column and
withdraw the upper column and outer
column into the vehicle interior:
3 Remove the 156 UNF pinch bolt and binx
nut ·securing the flexible coupling to the
steering box innercolumn and worm.
4
From underneath the vehicle remove the
steering column gaiter from its body location
in the footwell. ·
5 Remove i UNF self-locking nut and plain
washer and disconnect track rod from drop
arm.
6 Remove three i UNF set screws and
washers to remove the steering box from its
chassis mo~nting bracket.
To replace
Replace in reverse order.
Steering
(from chassis No. 6E2/12208749)
On all Robin 850 veliicles from the above
chassis number a 'double universal joint'
steering column arrangement was introduced.
This arrangement incorporates an additional
lower steering column connecting the upper
inner column to the steering box inner
column and worm. The new lower steering
column has universal joints at each end.
A -fa UNF pinch bolt and self-locking nut
secures each universal joint to the splined
ends of the inner upper column and steering
box inner column and worm.
To remove
1 Following instructions in the existing
Robin workshop manual, remove the steering
wheel crash-pad, steering wheel, multi-switch
cover and clamp, multi-switch, indicator cam,
outer steering column clamping bracket and
outer column from its support bracket
secured to the body.
2
Unscrew the-fa UNF pinch bolt and selflocking nut securing the upper universal joint
of the lower column to the splined end of the
inner upper column and withdraw the inner
upper column and outer column into the
vehicle interior.
Unscrew the -fa UNF pinch bolt and selflockin,g nut securing the lower universal joint
of the lower column, to the splined end of the
steering box inner column and worm.
...3
4
From underneath the vehicle remove the
steering box column gaiter from its body
location in the footwell.
5 Unscrew a single i UNF self-bcking nut
and plain washer to disconnect the track rod
from the drop arm.
6 Unscrew three i UNF set screws and.
washers and remove the steering box from
its chassis mounting bracket.
To replace
1 Replace in reverse order.
Note: A wider range of components for the
steering box, e.g. rocker shaft, follower peg,
worm, etc., are now available as serviceable
items. (See Parts List 'R' Part No. 91364Section 01 ).
Steering
Figure 1
Wheel and column
1 Steering box
2 Drop arm
3 Rocker shah
4 Ball peg
5 Ball race
6 Adjuster bunon
7 Cover plate
8 Gasket. plate
9 Bolt
10 Lockwasher
11 Bolt
12 Spring
13 Adjuster screw
14 Nut
16 Tabwasher
16 Oil plug
17 Washer. ball peg
18 Washer. bail peg
19 Circlip. ball peg
20 Bush
21 Oil seal
22 Washer
23 Nut
24 Ball bearing. upper
25 Bail bearing. lower
26 Oil seal lower
27 Oil seal upper
28 End plate
29 Gasket
30 Shim
31 Bolt
32 Bolt
33 Lockwasher
34 Inner column/worm
35 Set screw
36 Lockwasher
37 Steering column upper
} Cho"'' No.
38 Lower column
6E2/ 12208749
39 Pinch bolt
onwards
40 Nut
41 Grommet. column
42 Cam. multi-switch
43 Outer column
44 Bush. column
45 Bracket. column support
46 Set screw
47 Nut
48 Coachwasher
49 Nut
50 Bush
51 Bracket
62 Screw
53 Washer
64 Lockwasher
66 Nut
66 Track rod
57 Gaiter
.68 Clip. gaiter
59 Nut. track rod
60 Washer. track rod
61 Steering arm
62 Bolt
63 Bolt
64 Steering wheel
65 Crash pad
66 Nut wheel to column
67 Washer, wheel to column
68 Steering column upper
69 Bolt
70 Nut
71 Steeri ng column upper
72 Flexible coupling
73 Bolt
74 Nut
Chassis No.
5J/ 8N1001 ·
5J/ 8N1151
5J3/ 13201 152·
607/ 13307805
Chassis No.
607/ 13307806
6E2/12208748
Section E
Cooling system
Routine maintenance 1
Anti-freeze .1
Radiator 2
Water pump 2
Fan belt 4
Thermostat 4
Temperature gauge and sender unit 4
Cooling system
Section E
1
Descri pti on
The cooling system is of the positive circulation
type incorporating a centrifugal water pump
driven by a fan belt from the crankshaft pulley
and assisted by a three bladed fan. To pressurise
the system and raise the boiling point of the
coolant the radiator filler cap has a spring
loaded valve set to open at 0·49kg/ sq em
(7 ·0ib/ sq in) .
A wax type thermostat in conju nction with a
by-pass hose assists rapid warming up and also
maintains a constant operating temperature.
The water temperature is measured electrically
by an indicator. housed in the left hand gauge
on the fascia. and a sensitive sender unit
screwed into the thermostat housing.
Fig ure 1
Routine maintenance
Cylinder block drain plug
1 Dram plug
The coolant level should be regularly checked
and topped up if necessary. Check the cooling
system periodically for leaks. and ensure the fan
belt is correctly adjusted (see page 4) .
Anti - freeze mixture
In the winter months an anti-freeze must be
added to the coolant in the radiator to prevent
damage to the cylinder block or radiator
through freezing.
Before refilling. the cooling system should be
flushed out thoroughly. Check the condition of
all hoses and connections in the cooling
system and heater.
It is advisable to mix the anti-freeze with water
in a separate container before refilling the
cooling system.
The percentage of anti -f reeze solution in the
cooling system will determine the degree of
protection and it is advisable to allow a margin
of safety in cases where lower temperatures
than normal may be encountered .
The quantities of anti -freeze for various degrees
of protection are given in the table at the end of
this section.
The percentage of anti-freeze in the cooling
system can be checked by measuring the
specific gravity of the coolant with a suitable
hydrometer.
N ot e : During summer months when no antifreeze is used a solution of water and 3·35 fluid
oz of Reliant Coolant Inhibitor SQ 36 A (Part
No. 1037 4) should be used to maintain the
system free from corrosion.
Figu re 2
Radiator drain plug
1 Drain plu g
T o drain the cool in g syst em
Two drain plugs are provided, one in the L.H.
side of the cylinder block (Fig u re 1 ) and one in
the base of the radiator ( Figure 2).
1 The vehir.le should be standing on level
ground with the radiator pressure cap removed
when draining. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAP
WHEN WATER IS NEAR BO ILING POINT, as
this will cause water and steam to be blown
out of the filler neck.
2 If anti-freeze mixture has been used the
coolant should be drained into a clean container
and retained.
3 Drain the cooling system and flush
thoroughly by inserting a hose pipe in the filler.
Cooling system
2
Section E
neck of the radiator, allowing water to flow
through until clean.
Note : It is advisable to leave an indication on
the vehicle that the cooling system has been
drained, should the vehicle be left standing.
To refill
1 Replace the drain plugs to radiator and
cylinder block.
2 If anti-freeze solution has been in use and
has been retained return it to the cooling
system. If the liquid retained is not sufficient to
fill the system add additional anti-freeze as
required. Do not add plain water, otherwise the
solution may be weakened making it less
effective in adverse conditions.
Note : Water used for the cooling system should
be clean and free from obvious impu rities.
3
Do not overfill the radiator.
4 Start the engine and run at normal operating
temperature to clear away any air pockets in
the system. Stop engine and recheck coolant
level, topping up if necessary.
5
Replace radiator filler cap.
Checking for water leaks
After refilling the system, ensure that all hose
connections are secu rely tightened. Start the
engine and check for water leaks.
In the event of the cooling system being
disturbed, e.g. cylinder head removal or water
pump change, it is recommended that a Barseal
pellet (Part No. 9947) is introduced through the
radiator filler neck. New gaskets should always
be fitted and fixing nuts tightened to the correct
torque to prevent possible ingress of water to
the oil system.
Radiator
Figure 3
Radiator and hoses
1 Fill er cap
2 Drain plug
3 Overflow tube
4 Clip. tube
5 Mounting bracket l.H .
6 Mounting bracket R.H.
7 Set screw
8 Washer
9 Coachwasher
10 Nut
11 Hose. top
1 2 Hose. bottom
13 Clip. hose
4 Remove two fir UNF set screws and washers
securing R.H. of radiator to mounting bracket.
5 From under the front wheel. wheel arch,
unscrew two self locking nuts. complete with
coach washers, securing L.H. radiator support
bracket to the body.
Description
The radiator, comprising an upper and lower
tank connected by a matrix, is mounted to the
body by two support brackets. An overflow
pipe drains surplus coolant to the road should
the system be overfilled.
7 Disconnect radiator hoses and check their
condition, replacing if necessary.
To remove (see Figure 3 )
1 Drain the cooling system as previously
described.
8 Refit radiator in reverse order, refill the
cooling system as described earlier in the
section, and check for leaks.
2 Slacken hose clips and disconnect radiator
hoses from water pump and thermostat housing.
Water pump
3 Disconnect water outlet pipe and fresh air
tube from heater, after slackening retaining
clips.
Description
The water pump is mounted on the front face
of the cylinder block and comprises of a cast
6 Pu ll radiator rearwards to clear R.H. support
bracket and then lift radiator from the vehicle.
Cooling system
Figure 4
Section E
3
Water pump
1 Gaskel. wal er pump
2 ·v· bell. fan
3 Fan blade
4 Sel screw. fan blade
5 Washer. fan blade
6 Lockwasher. fan blade
7 By· pass hose
8 Chp, by-pass hose
iron impeller mounted on a spindle with a
rubber seal and thrower. The rubber seal,
bearing against the impeller prevents leaks
around the spindle. The coolant inlet is on the
right of the pump body. A fabricated pulley,
pressed onto the front of the pump spindle seats
the three bladed fan (see Figure 4 } .
Leaking coolant from the seating face of the
water pump could indicate a worn gasket or
impellor spindle sea l. If the latter is the case a
new pump, avai lable as an assembly only, will
have to be fitted.
To remove
1 Drain the cooling system and remove
radiator.
2 Slacken alternator adjuster and mounting
bolts, pivot alternator towards the engine and
remove fan belt.
9 Lockwasher. wal er pump
10 Nul. waler pump
11 Conneclion. hose
3 Slacken hose clips and disconnect heater
hose and by-pass hose from thermostat housing.
4 Remove four -h UNF nuts and Jockwashers
and withdraw pump assembly from the studs
on the cylinder block, including gasket.
5
Disconnect by-pass hose from pump.
To replace
1 Clean the seating faces of the water pump
and cylinder block and fit a new gasket.
2 Fit the pump assembly over the studs and
secure to the front face of the cylinder block
with four -h UN F nuts and lockwashers,
tightening to a torque of 1 ·66- 2·07kg m
(12- 15lb ft} .
3
Reconnect pump by-pass and heater hoses.
Cooling system
4
Section E
4 Readjust fan belt tension (see following
text).
5 Refit radiator. connect hoses. refill the
cooling system and check for leaks.
Fan belt
A single 'V' type belt is used to drive the
alternator and water pump from the crankshaft
pulley.
Correct fan belt tension is important. otherwise
the belt itself may be damaged or undue strain
placed on the alternator and water pulley. If the
belt is left slack, poor charging of the battery
could result.
There is provision for fan belt adjustment by
pivotting the alternator on its mountings. It is
important this adjustment is released when a
fan belt is to be fitted, otherwise any attempt
to strain a new belt over the sides of the pulleys
can easily cause damage to the belt.
To adjust fan belt tension
The correct tension of the fan belt is such that
when the belt is pushed and pulled at a point
midway between the alternator and water
pump pulley the total movement is 13mm
(0·50in) (see Figure 5).
1 Slacken the alternator adjustment locking
bolt and front mounting bolt.
2 Pivot the alternator towards or away from
the engine as necessary until the correct belt
tension is obtained .
3 Securely tighten adjustment locking bolt
and mounting bolt.
Thermostat
The wax type thermostat is located in a housing
at the front of the cylinder head. When the
coolant is cold the thermostat is in the closed
position and water flow is restricted within the
engine by means of the by-pass hose. Coolant
flowing through the by-pass hose returns to the
water pump.
When the thermostat is fully open complete
circulation through the block. cylinder head and
radiator. takes place.
To remove
1 Drain the cooling system as previously
described and disconnect the hose pipe at the
thermostat.
2 Unscrew three set screws. complete with
lockwashers, lift off the thermostat cover and
remove thermostat. (See Figure 12 Section F.)
Testing the thermostat
If it is suspected that the thermostat is not
operating correctly, it may be tested in the
following manner.
Suspend the thermostat in water in a suitable
container. gradually heating the water. Check
frequently the temperature of the water with a
thermometer. The thermostat and the
thermometer must not touch the sides of the
container as this w ill result in a faulty
temperature reading.
The thermostat should start to open at 86-89°C
(187-193°F) and be fully opened when the
water is boiling.
If the thermostat does not function properly.
do not attempt any adjustment, but replace
with new unit.
To replace
1 Position thermostat in its housing and fit a
new gasket.
2 Replace thermostat cover with the outlet
facing forward and secure with the three i UNC
set screws and lockwashers.
3 Reconnect hose pipe to the thermostat
outlet. refill the cooling system and check for
water leaks.
Temperature gauge and sender unit
Figure 5
Fan belt tension
The temperature gauge reading depends upon
the variation in resistance of a thermister.
Needle fluctuation, due to road shock. is reduced
by the use of silicone in the pointer assembly
bearing.
Cooling system
5
Section E
Diagnosis
If faulty readings are suspected on the
temperature gauge, check the gauge and sender
unit as follows:
With the ignition switched on, disconnect the
wire from the thermostat sender unit. The
temperature gauge needle should then be at the
cold mark. Then earth the sender unit wire.
The temperature gauge needle should then be
at the hot mark, thus indicating that the gauge
is functioning correctly. This would indicate
that incorrect readings were due to a faulty
sender unit, which will need replacement, a
fault in the wiring, or loose connections. If,
however, the fault lies with the temperature
gauge, the unit will have to be replaced (see
Section T).
Cooling system specification
Cooling system capacity inc. heater 2·84 litres (5 pints)
Radiator
Cap pressure
0·492kg/sq em (71b/sq in)
Thermostat
Type
Starts to open
Fully open
Opening distance
Wax
86°-89°C (18r-193°F)
103°C (218°F)
7·11 mm (0·280in)
Fan
Fan diameter - 3 blade
Belt tension
254·0mm (1 O·Oin)
13mm (0·50in) total free movement
Water pump
Type
Pulley ratio
Centrifuga I
1·172:1
Anti-freeze quantities
Volume in
water%
Fluid down
tO °C (°F)
Solidifies
at °C (°F)
Without heater
With heater
Specific
gravity
10
-4 (+25)
-8 (+17)
0·26 litres (0·45 pints)
0·28 litres (0·50 pints)
1·016
15
-7 (+20)
-14 ( +17)
0·39 litres (0·68 pints)
0·43 litres (0·75 pints)
1·026
20
-9 (+15)
-19 (-3)
0·51 litres (0·90 pints)
0·57 litres (1·00 pints)
1·034
25
-13 (+9)
-29 (-20)
0·64 litres (1 ·125 pints)
0·71 litres (1·25 pints)
1·042
30
-16 ( +3)
-39 ( -38)
0·77 litres (1·35 pints)
0·85 litres (1·50 pints)
1·050
40
-25 (-13)
-48 (-54)
1·02 litres (1·80 pints)
1·14 litres (2·00 pints)
1·065
50
-37 ( -34)
-58 ( -72)
1 ·27 litres (2·25 pints)
1·42 litres (2·50 pints)
1·080
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
Cooling system
Description
The introduction of the S.U. carburettor and
water-heated manifold now used on the
Robin 850 has resulted in a new water hose
layout, as follows:
The by-pass hose from the thermostat housing
to the water pump is deleted, and replaced by
a hose connected from the thermostat housing
to the manifold adaptor, and a hose connected
from the manifold adaptor to the water pump.
To drain the cooling system
Some 850 vehicles may have a radiator not
fitted with a drain plug. To drain a radiator of
this type it is necessary to remove the bottom
hose. Take the opportunity to check the
condition of the hose before replacement.
Section E
Section F
The engine·
Routine maintenance 1
Engine removal 1
Flywheel and ring gear removal and
replacement 4
Sump removal and replacement 4
Oil pump 5
Crankshaft rear cover removal and replacement 6
Timing chain cover 6
Timing chain 7
Camshaft sprocket 7
Cylinder head removal 7
Cylinder head decarbonise 9
Pistons and con rods 11
Crankshaft removal11
9amshaft removal 12
Camshaft bearings 14
Cylinder liner replacement 15
Tappet adjustment 17
Stud removal 18
Specification 18
The engine
Section F
Description
The 750cc engine is a four cylinder in line unit
having a diecast aluminium cylinder head with
cast iron valve guides and sintered iron seats.
Diecast aluminium is also used for the cylinder
block which incorporates removable wet liners.
The forged steel crankshaft is mounted on three
steel backed main bearings.
Routine maintenance
The engine oil level should be checked weekly
and topped up if necessary to keep the oil
capacity at 3·13 litres (5·50 pints). It is
important that this capacity is kept constant for
any appreciable drop in the level will result in
poor lubrication and possible engine damage.
To ensure the lubrication system is kept clean
and free from impurities the engine oil should
be changed and a new oil filter fitted, every
6,000 miles (1 O,OOOkm).
Engine service operations
The following service operations give detailed
instructions for servicing and dismantling all the
major engine assemblies. Where it is necessary
to remove ancillary components and parts refer
to the appropriate sections.
Before reassembly during any operation, all
components should be thoroughly cleaned,
paying particular attention to joint faces and
bearing surfaces. Any local high spot or burrs on
the joint faces should be carefully removed
with a fine file. Ensure that any piece of gasket
or dirt in a blind tapped hole is removed during
cleaning, as the bolt may bottom before the bolt
head abuts the mating part. When tightening a
bolt which bottoms a characteristic springiness
may be felt. If this occurs the bolt should be
removed and the hole cleaned out.
'
Operation 1 - Engine removal
and installation
The engine should be removed complete with
gearbox.
To remove
1 Disconnect battery.
2
Drain cooling system.
3
Drain engine oil.
4 Disconnect alternator lead and remove
alternator.
5
Disconnect starter motor lead.
1
6 Disconnect temperature gauge sender unit
lead at thermostat housing.
7 Disconnect oil pressure indicator lead at
cylinder block.
8 Disconnect high and low tension leads
from coil.
9
Remove air cleaner.
10 Disconnect throttle cable at pedal and
choke cable at carburettor.
11 Disconnect petrol supply pipe at fuel pump
and plug to prevent loss of fuel and ingress of
dirt.
12 Disconnect clutch cable at clutch operating
arm.
13
Disconnect heater hose at water pump.
14
Disconnect exhaust down pipe at manifold.
15
Remove starter motor.
16 Disconnect speedometer cable at gearbox
rear cover.
17 Press in retaining lugs, remove heater and
choke knobs from centre console, remove
locking nuts and disconnect heater and choke
cables.
18
Unscrew gear lever knob.
19 Remove two No. 8 screws securing rear of
centre console to driveshaft tunnel. Then lift
centre console complete with gaiter over gear
lever.
20
Remove gear lever.
21
Unscrew six No. 8 self tapping screws and
remove engine rear access panel.
22 Disconnect heater hose at water valve on
heater.
23 Disconnect driveshaft from gearbox rear
coupling.
24 Remove two~ UNF self locking nuts and
washers, securing engine front mounting
rubbers to chassis mounting brackets.
25 Before removing gearbox rear mounting
support engine and gearbox assembly by means
of a suitable jack from underneath the vehicle
or lifting gear through bonnet aperture.
26 Remove four 156 UN F set screws and self
locking nuts to detach gearbox support bracket
from chassis mounting.
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The engine
Section F
3
27 Pull engine and gearbox assembly slightly
forward, lift to clear engine front mounting
brackets and then carefully lower assembly onto
a suitable base.
Unscrew two 15 6 UNC bolts and six
5
1 6 UNF nuts, complete with lockwashers and
separate engine and gearbox assemblies.
28
7 Secure engine front mounting rubbers to
chassis with two ~ UN F self locking nuts and
washers.
Note: Ensure mounting rubber restrictor cups
are correctly fitted if removed when dismantling
engine.
8
29 Remove ancillary components (see
appropriate section) and carry out the necessary
service operations.
9 Fit engine rear access panel to bulkhead
with six No. 8 self tapping screws.
10 Locate gear lever in gearbox top cover and
secure in position with cap and retaining clip.
To replace
1 Refit ancillary components.
2 Secure engine and gearbox assemblies
together using six 156 UN F nuts, two 156 UN F
bolts and lockwashers.
3 Support the engine and gearbox with lifting
gear or a suitable jack and offer up to the
vehicle chassis.
4 Carefully raise the assembly and locate
engine mounting rubbers in front chassis
mounting brackets.
5 Raise the gearbox and position gearbox
support bracket in line with its chassis
mounting, and secure with four 156 UNF set
screws and self locking nuts.
11
Lower centre console, including rubber
gaiter over gear lever, and fit to driveshaft
tunnel with two No. 8 screws.
12 Replace gear lever knob and check that the
rubber gaiter is correctly seated.
13 Fit locking nuts and press choke and
heater knobs onto control cables on centre
console.
14 Reconnect speedometer cable at gearbox
rear cover.
15
Refit starter motor to gearbox casing.
16 " Reconnect exhaust downpipe to manifold.
17
6 Reconnect drive shaft to gearbox rear
coupling with four 156 UNF bolts, nuts and
lockwashers.
Figure 1
Reconnect heater hose to heater water valve.
Reconnect heater hose at water pump.
18 Reconnect clutch cable at clutch operating
arm.
Cylinder block
1 Cylinder block
2 Stud. cylinder head
3 Stud, cylinder head
4 Stud. cylinder head
5 Stud, cylinder head
6 Stud. water pump
7 Stud. alternator strap
8 Stud. fuel pump
9 Stud. main bearing housing cap
10 Washer. main bearing housing cap
11 Nut. main bearing housing cap
12 Core plug. camshaft
13 Bridge piece. block front
14 Bridge piece. block rear
15 Packing. bridge piece
16 Screw. bridge piece
17 Cylinder liner
18 Plug. water drain
19 Washer, plug
20 Dipstick
21 Tube, dipstick
27 Stud. plate to block
28 Nut. plate to block
29 Lockwasher, plate to block
30 Cover. timing chain
31 ~asket cover
32 Oil seal. cover
33 Bolt. cover
34 Bolt. cover
35 Bolt. cover
36 Lockwasher. cover
37 Nut. cover
38 Oil filter
39 Adaptor. oil filter
40 Plug. oilway end
41 Switch. oil pressure
42 Plunger. oil pressure release
43 Spring. oil pressure release
44 Retainer. oil pressure release
45 Washer. oil pressure release
46 Insert. oil pressure release
47 Mounting plate. rear
53 Lockwasher. plate to block
54 Oil seal. crankshaft rear
55 Rear cover. oil seal retainer
56 Gasket. rear cover
57 Set screw. cover fixing
58 Set screw. cover fixing
59 Washer, cover fixing
60 Lockwasher. cover fixing
61 Dowel. crankshaft cover
62 Sump
63 Plug. sump drain
64 Washer. plug
65 Gasket. sump
66 Set screw. sump to block
67 Washer, sump to block
68 Lockwasher. sump to block
69 Nut. cylinder head
70 Washer. cylinder head
71 Nut. cylinder head
72 Lockwasher. cylinder head
73 Mounting rubber. front
7A
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The engine
4
Section F
19 Remove plug and connect petrol supply
pipe at fuel pump.
20 Reconnect choke cable at carburettor and
throttle cable at pedal.
21
Refit air cleaner.
22
Reconnect coil high and low tension leads.
23 Reconnect oil pressure indicator lead at
cylinder block.
24 Reconnect temperature gauge sender unit
lead at thermostat housing.
25
Reconnect starter motor lead.
26
Refit alternator and connect leads.
27 Refill engine and gearbox with
recommended oil.
28
Refill the cooling system.
29
Reconnect battery.
Operation 2- Flywheel and ring
gear removal and replacement
Figure 2
Fitting flywheel bearing
run-out is permitted, but if this is exceeded the
flywheel must be replaced with a new assembly.
10 Using tool No. RT7485 as a centraliser, or
primary gear from a gearbox, replace clutch
disc and pressure plate assembly on the flywhee l
securing evenly with six 156 UNF set screws and
lockwashers to a torque of 1·66-2·07kg m
(12-151b ft) (see Figure 3) .
1 Remove gearbox (see Section G - The
Gearbox) .
11
2 Unscrew six set screws, complete with
lockwashers, and remove clutch assembly from
the flywheel.
Operation 3 - Sump removal and
replacement
3 Release tab washer, unscrew three set
screws and remove f lywheel assembly from the
crankshaft.
4
1
Refit gearbox.
Drain engine oil.
2 Unscrew fifteen 1 UNC set screws and
remove spacers, lockwashers, sump and gasket.
Drill or cut ring gear and prise from flywheel.
5 Heat new ring gear evenly and fit to
flywheel.
6 Using a 0·038mm (0·0015in) feeler gauge
check that no clearance exists between ring
gear and flywheel over the complete
circumference.
7 Check the flywheel needle bearing for wear.
If wear is evident knock out bearing and fit a
new one using tool No. RT7485 (see Figure 2) .
8 Secure flywheel assembly to crankshaft with
three i UNF set screws, and tab washer,
tightening to a torque of 4 ·03kg m (291b ft) .
The tabs of the washer should then be bent over
to lock the set screws.
9 Check flywheel for misalignment using a
clock indicator. A 0·08-0·13mm (0·003-0·005in)
Figure 3
Centralising clutch
The engine
Section F
5
3 Clean the sump and its seating on the
cylinder block face.
be thoroughly cleaned with petrol and coated
with Hylomar sealant before refitting.
4 To eliminate possible oil leakage the two
centre front and rear fixing screw threads should
5 Fit new gasket, replace sump and tighten
the fifteen set screws, spacers and lockwashers
evenly.
Operation 4 - Oil pump removal and
replacement (with sump removed)
1 Rotate engine until on TDC (see page 3
Section T) .
2
Remove distributor.
3 Unscrew two -h UNF nuts, complete with
lockwashers and remove oil pump assembly,
including filter, from the cylinder block (see
Figure 4).
4 Drift out the pin securing thrust muff to
distributor/ oil pump drive shaft which can then
be withdrawn upwards through the distributor
housing.
5 Inspect oil pump and drive shaft assemblies
and renew if necessary.
• Note: In production it has sometimes been
necessary to fit one or two 0·127mm (0·005in)
shims between the oil pump drive shaft bush
and the cylinder block (see Figure 5).
It is not necessary, when dismantling the oil
pump, to remove the drive bush or shim, if
fitted. However, if the bush and shim are
removed, it is important that they are both
replaced when reassembling the pump.
P.1020
Figure 4
Oil Pump
1 Oil pump
2 Gasket, oil pump
3 Filter, sump oil
4 Extension, oil pump
5 Socket set screw
6 Bolt. extension to pump
7 Lockwasher, extension to pump
8 Gasket. ex tension to block
9 Stud. extension
10 Lockwasher, extension to block
11 Nut. extension to block
12 Oil pump driving shaft
13 Gear
14 Shaft
1 5 Pin thrust muff and gear
16 Thrust muff
17 Bush shaft
18 Shim. bush to block
Figure 5
Oil pump drive shaft shim
The engine
6
Section F
Failure to replace the shim or shims will cause
excessive end float of the distributor drive shaft,
resulting in poor meshing of the drive gear and
engine noise.
The backlash between camshaft gear and
driveshaft gear must not exceed 0·0762mm
(0·003in).
6
Reassemble components in reverse order.
7 Ensuring the engine is on TDC refit oil
pump and new gasket to cylinder block with
two 156 UNF nuts and lockwashers.
Operation 5 - Crankshaft rear cover
and oil seal (with flywheel removed)
1 Unscrew six set screws and remove oil seal
cover, complete with oil seal and gasket from
the cylinder block.
Figure 7
Fitting rear cover
2 Using a suitable tool press the oi l seal from
the rear cover.
2 Remove the radiator, complete with hoses,
from the vehicle.
Note : Do not use a screwdriver as this will
damage the oil seal seating .
3 Slacken alternator mountings and remove
fan belt.
3 Carefully press a new oil seal into the rear
cover. To ensure the seal is seated firmly and
squarely use a press tool, similar to that shown
in Figure 6.
4 Unscrew four ,\- UNF nuts and lockwashers
and remove waterpump from cylinder block.
4 Locate the two dowels of the rear cover in
the cylinder block and then secure cover with
six i UNC set screws and lockwashers (see
Figure 7).
Operation 6 - Timing chain cover,
oil seal and gasket
1
Drain t he cooling system.
Figure 6
Replacing rear cover oil seal
5 Unscrew i UNF bolt and withdraw
crankshaft pulley.
6 Remove seven i UNC bolts and two i UNC
nuts, complete with lockwashers, and detach
timing chain cover from cylinder block.
7 Extract oil sea l from cover usin'g Tool No.
RT7480 and drive handle Part No. 550 (see
Figure 8) .
Figure 8
Extracting front cover oil seal
The engine
7
Section F
bolts, remove camshaft sprocket and lift off
timing chain. Retain camshaft sprocket locking
plate.
2 Fit new timing chain to crankshaft and
camshaft sprocket which can be secured to the
camshaft using the locking plate and -h UNC
bolts.
3 Check valve timing, ensuring that the timing
mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the
Woodruff key and on the crankshaft (see
Figure 11 ).
4 Check the timing chain tensioner for wear
and replace if necessary.
Figure 9
Replacing front cover oil seal
8 Fit new oil seal, using Tool No. RT7480 and
drive handle, locating as shown in Figure 9.
9 With the aid of centralising tool Part No.
RT7481 fit timing chain cover complete with
gasket, to cylinder block, securing with seven
-1 UNC bolts, two -1 UNC nuts and lockwashers
(see Figure 10).
10 Replace crankshaft pulley, water pump,
refit fan belt, and secure alternator.
11 Replace radiator, reconnect hoses and refill
the cooling system.
Figure 11
Alignment of camshaft sprocket
and Woodruff key
Operation 8 - Camshaft sprocket.
(timing chain cover and timing
chain removed)
1 First ensure the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket aligns with the Woodruff key on the
crankshaft to align No. 1 or No. 4 piston on
TDC.
2 Release locking plate, unscrew two -h UNC
bolts and locking plate.
3 Ensure that the timing mark on the camshaft
sprocket aligns with the Woodruff key on the
crankshaft (see Figure 11 ).
Figure 10
Centralising front cover
Operation 7 - Timing chain (with
timing chain cover removed)
1
Release locking plate, unscrew two -h UNC
Operation 9 - Cylinder head removal
1
Disconnect battery.
n
UNF nuts and disconnect
2 Unscrew two
exhaust downpipe from manifold.
The engine
8
Section F
P1016
Figure. 12
Cylinder head
1 Cylinder head
2 Stud. manifold
3 S.tud. manifold
4 Stud. rocker cover
5 Stud. rocker shaft bracke t
6 Gasket. cylinder head
7 Plug, ollway end
8 Core plug
9 Connection. by-pass hose
10 Temperature transmitter
11 Thermostat
12 Water outlet branch
13 Gasket
14 Set screw
15 Lockwasher
16 Bracket. petrol pipe support
17 Clip. pipe to bracket
18 Screw. clip to bracket
19 Rocker cover
20 Gasket. rocker cover
21 Washer. cover to head
22 Nut. cover to head
23 Cap. oil filler
24 Seal. cap
26 Manifold. inlet
26 Stud. carb to manifold
27 Nut. manifold
28 Lockwasher. mamfold
29 Gasket. manifold
30 Manifold. exhaust
31 Stud. exhaust downpipe
32 Nut. manifold
33 Lockwasher. manifold
34 Stud. manifold
36 Nut. manifold
36 Washer. manifold
37 Gasket. manifold
The engine
Section F
9
3 Remove oil filler cap from rocker cover
unscrew retaining screw and lift air cleaner body
from base plate.
4 Disconnect throttle and choke cables at
carbu rettor.
5 Unscrew two 156 UNF self locking nuts,
complete with fibre washers and remove rocker
cover.
6 Remove two 156 UNF nuts and lockwashers
and lift carburettor from inlet manifold studs.
7 Disconnect temperature gauge sender unit
lead at thermostat housing .
8
Drain radiator and disconnect top hose and
by-pass hose from thermostat housing.
9 Disconnect heater hose from adaptor at rear
of cylinder head.
Figure 13
sequence
10 Disconnect cool air hose from heater and
engine bulkhead .
2 Remove valves from cylinder head using
valve spring compression tool keeping in correct
order. Retain valve springs, covers, cups and
cotters for inspection.
11 Disconnect high and low tension leads at
coil.
12 Disconnect spark plug leads and remove
distributor cap.
13 Unscrew i UNC bolt, complete with
plain washer and lockwasher securing
distributor. Do not disturb clamping bolt
securing distributor unless the ignition timing is
to be adjusted on reassembly.
14 Remove twelve i UNF and three -,\ UNF
nuts and washers from cylinder head.
Cylinder head nut tightening
3 If valve guides are worn remove them using
Tool No. RT7478 (see Figu re 14).
4 Use a piece of sharpened wood to break up
the carbon deposits on the piston faces of the
cylinder head and then polish with wire wool.
5 Reface all valves or replace if badly burnt or
the stems are unduly worn.
6 Replace valve guides in cylinder head using
Tool No. RT7478 (see Figure 14) .
1 5 Withdraw the push rods keeping them in
their correct order.
16 Carefully lift cylinder head from the
cylinder block.
17 Replace in reverse order after cleaning the
cylinder head and block faces and fitting a new
gasket. To ensure a good seal when replacing
head, smear grease around the metal edges of
the gasket bore eyelets. Tighten the cylinder head
nuts to a torque of 3·46kg m (251b ft) in the
sequence shown in Figure 13. The three
-,\ UN F nuts must be fitted to the spark plug
side of the cylinder head and tightened to a
torque of 2·07kg m (151b ft).
Operation 10 - Cylinder head
decarbonise (with cylinder head
removed)
1
Unscrew the four spark plugs.
Figure 14 Valve guide removal and
replacement
1 Valve gu1de removal
2 Valve guide replacement
3 Valve guide protection sleeve
The engine
Section F
10
P1018
Figure 15
Engine interior
1 Crankshaft
2 Flywheel assembly
3 Flywheel
4 Gear. flywheel
5 Dowel. flyw heel
6 Bearing. cran kshaft
7 Tabwasher. flywheel
8 Set screw. flywheel
9 Connecting rod
10 Small end bearing
11 Big end bearing
12 Bolt. connecting rod
13 Plate. connecting rod
14 Piston assembly
15 Compression ring
16 Taper ring
17 Scraper ring
18 Gudgeon pin
19 Circlip
20 Thrust washer. crankshaft
21 Thrust washer. crankshaft
22 Sprocket. crankshaft
23 Pulley, crankshaft
24 Key. pulley
25 Spacer. crankshaft sprocket
26 Bolt. pulley
27 Washer. pulley
28 Lockwasher. puliey
29 Main bearing crankshaft
30 Camshaft
31 Bearing. camshaft
32 Core plug
33 Plate. camshaft
34 Bolt. plate
35 Lockwasher. plate
36 Sprocl<'et. camshaft
37 Plate. sprocket
38 Screw. sprocket
39 Timing chain
40 Tensioner. timing chai n
41 Tappet
42 Push rod
43 Screw. tappet adjustl'llent
44 Locknut. tappet adjustment
45 Rocker. LH.
46 Rocker. R.H.
47 Rocker shaft
48 Bracket. rocker shaft
49 Bracket. rocker shaft
50 Screw. rocker shah
51 Washer. bracket
52 Nut. bracket
53 Spring. rocker shaft
54 Spring. rocker shaft end
55 Washer. spring
56 Split pm. spring
57 Plug. rocker shalt
58 Valve. inlet
59 Insert. inlet valve
60 Spring valve
61 Cup. valve spring
62 Seal. valve stem
63 Cotter. valve
64 Valve. exhaust
65 Insert. valve outlet
66 Gu1de. valves
The engine
Section F
7 Recut the valve seats to ensure that the seats
are concentric with the valve stem bore.
8 Relap valves to cylinder head seats, after
this operation carefully check valve seats to
ensure that no grinding paste particles are
present.
9 Fit new valve springs and new cotters if
necessary.
10
Replace cylinder head.
Operation 11 - Pistons, connecting
rods and bearings (with cylinder
head and sump removed)
1
Remove oil pump as.sembly (see
Operation 4) .
2 Release locking plates, unscrew eight bolts
and remove the four big end bearing caps (see
Figure 15).
11
11 Fit the piston rings, fitting the scraper ring
first, followed by the lower and then the upper
compression rings. The 'top' mark on the
compression rings must face uppermost.
12 Insert the piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the appropriate bores,
positioning the scraper ring gaps to the rear,
and the top and lower compression ring gaps
at 180° and 90° to this. Compress the rings
using a tool similar to that shown in Figure 16.
13
Fit new big end bearings in the connecting
rods and caps.
14 Locate t he connecting rods and caps on
the crankshaft and secure in position with
eight ·437 AF bolts and locking plates, tightening
to a torque of 2·90kg m (21lb ft) . Ensure the
numbers on the con rods and caps correspond,
on the camshaft side.
15 Replace oil pump assembly, sump and
cylinder head.
3 Remove the bearing shells from the caps
and con rods.
4 Carefully push the pistons, complete with
con rods from the cylinder liners.
5 Immerse piston and con rod assemblies in
hot water for a few minutes then release
gudgeon pin retaining circlips.
6 Using a suitable drift remove the gudgeon
pins and disconnect the con rods from the
pistons.
7 Remove the small end bushes from the con
rods, and press in new ones.
8 Having pressed in new small end bushes
check that t hey will accept new gudeon pins
for it may be necessary to ream out the bushes
with an expanding reamer until a tight push
fit is obtained.
Note : It is important during this operation that
the bush is reamed squarely to the con rod to.
ensure correct alignment.
9 Assemble new pistons Jo the connecting
rods, securing in position with the gudgeon pins
and circlips. It may be necessary to heat the
pistons in hot water to facilitate the operation .
Ensure the 'front' mark on the piston crowns are
facing forward.
10
Before fitting t he piston rings, position in
appropriate liners for gapping, which should be
0 ·17-0·30mm (0·007- 0 ·012in).
Figure 16
pistons
Compressing rings for refitting
Operation 12 - Crankshaft removal
and installation (with sump, front
cover, flywh eel, rear oil seal cover,
connection rod s and camshaft
sprocket removed)
1 Remove two fir UNC bolts and lockwashers
and detach camshaft retaining plate.
2 Unscrew two i UNC nuts, complete with
lockwashers, and remove front engine plate and
gaskets from cylinder block.
The engine
12
Secti on F
3 Unscrew four -h UNC set screws and
remove rear engine plate from cylinder block.
4 Remove four screws and detach the front
and rear bridge pieces from the cylinder block.
5 Disconnect all three main bearing caps,
after removing six i UNF nuts and washers,
two each cap (see Fig ure 15) .
12 Replace components in reverse order,
taking note of the following. When refitting front
and rear bridge pieces care should be taken to
ensure that their faces mate flush with the
cylinder block face.
Operation 13 - Camshaft removal
and installation (with timing chain
and sprocket removed)
6 The crankshaft can now be withdrawn
from the cylinder block.
1
7 Check crankshaft main bearing journals (see
engine specification for details).
2 Unscrew two -h UNF nuts and lift off
rocker cover and sealing gasket.
8 Fit new main bearings to crankshaft and
bearing caps.
3 Unscrew four i UNF nuts and washers
from the rocker shaft support brackets and
remove the complete rocker assembly.
9 Fit new thrust washers to the crankshaft
ensuring that the thrust face of the first washer
makes good contact with the ground face of the
crankshaft.
1 0 Replace crankshaft to cylinder block, fit
main bearing caps in order, rear. centre, front,
and secure to block with six i UNF nuts. Always
f it new main bearing cap nuts and tighten to a
torque of 3·316kg m (24 lb ft) .
11 Permitted end f loat of crankshaft is
0·0254-0·1524mm (0·001-0·006in).
Fig ure 17
1 Horseshoe
Remove engine assembly (see Operation 1 ).
4 Withdraw the eight push rods keepi ng
them in their correct order.
5
Remove sump (see Operation 3).
6 Unscrew two -h nuts, complete with
lockwashers, and remove oil pump assembly,
complete with filter, from cylinder block.
7 Knock out the pin securing thrust muff to
distributor and oil pump drive shaft which can
then be removed upwards through the
distributor location.
Camshaft bearing removal replacement tool
3 Small 'D' washer
5 PilOt
The engi ne
Section F
13
8
Remove two;\ UNC bolts, and lockwashers,
and remove camshaft retaining plate.
11 Replace in reverse order, fitting new
gaskets where applicable.
9 Unscrew two i UNC set screws and remove
front engine mounting plate from cylinder
block, including gasket.
N ot e : When refitting distributor drive shaft
ensure the large ·o· of the driving gear offset
dog is facing towards the block at No. 1 piston.
The camshaft retaining plate, fitted as original
equipment is 4·621 mm (0·182in) thick. A
service plate 5·258mm (0·207in) thick is
available to conteract any end f loat.
10 Push the tappets in turn up through the
cylinder block and carefully withd raw the
camshaft.
Figure 18
1 Pilot
2 Bearing
Figure 19
Removing camshaft rear bearing
3 Mandrel
4 Horseshoe
Removing camshaft centre bearing
The engine
Section F
14
Operation 14 - Camshaft bearing
removal and replacement (with
camshaft removed)
1
Remove flywheel (see Operation 2) .
2 Unscrew four -h UNC set screws and
remove rear engine plate from the cylinder
block.
Figure 20
1 Horseshoe
2 Mandrel
Figure 21
1 Pilot
2 Mandrel
3 Dri ll a hole in the camshaft core plug and
prise from cylinder block.
4 Press out the rear, centre and front camshaft
bearings using general tool No. 18G 124A and
Tool No. 7482 (see Figure 17) as follows:
(a) Insert general tool and position pilot,
mandrel and horseshoe as shown in Figure 18.
Removing camshaft front bearing
3 Bearing
4 Pilot
Replacing camshaft rear bearing
3 Bearing
4 Small ·o· washer
5 Horseshoe
The engine
Section F
15
(b) Applying firm pressure rotate the general
tool handle unti l the camshaft rear bearing is
removed completely from its location.
Figures 21, 22 and 23. Ensure the oil holes in
the bearings correspond to those in the cylinder
block.
(c) To remove centre and front camshaft
bearings position the general tool and
components as shown in Figure 19 and
Figure 20.
Operation 15- Cylinder liner
rebore replacement
(d) To replace camshaft bearings position
general tool and components as shown in
Figure 22
Figure 23
2
Extract the four liners from the cylinder
Replacing camshaft centre bearing
1 Horseshoe
2 Large
washer
·o·
1 Carry out operations 1- 14 and then
continue as follows:
3 Bearing
4 Mandrel
Replacing camshaft front bearing
5 Pilot
The engine
Figure 24
Section F
Removing cylinder liners
block using a tool similar to that shown in
Figure 24.
3 Remove all signs of sealing compound from
both the liners and their seats in the cylinder
block.
4
Machine the liners 0·254mm {0·01 Oin).
Note : Pistons 0·254mm (0·010in) oversize
must be fitted.
Alternatively the four liners should be replaced·
and standard pistons fitted.
5 Smear ICI 'Silcoset 152' sealing compound
around the seating face of the liner and its
location in the cylinder block~ making a
complete 360° sea l (see Figure 25) .
Cylinder
Liner
16
Figure 26
Fitting cylinder liners
6 Using a tool similar to that shown in
Figure 26 insen the liners into the block and
ensure they stand proud 0·050-0·152mm
{0·002- 0·006in) from the cylinder block face.
Check that there is a 0·381 mm {0·015in)
clearance between liners.
7 Assemble'new pistons to the connecting
rods, securing in position with the gudgeon pins
and circlips. To facilitate this operation heat the
pistons in hot water. Ensure the 'front' mark on
the piston crowns are facing forward.
8 Before fitting the piston rings position in
appropriate liners for gapping, which should be
0·17-0·30mm (0·007-0·012in) .
9 Fit the piston rings, the scraper ring first,
followed by the lower and then the upper
compression rings. The TOP' mark on the
compression rings must face uppermost.
1 0 I nsen the piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the cylinder liners, positioning
the scraper ring gaps to the rear and the top and
lower compr~ssion ring gaps at 180° and 90°
to this. Compress the rings for installation using
a compression tool similar to that shown in
Figure 16.
11 Fit new big end bearings in the connecting
rods and caps. Ensure the correct bearing sizes
are used, see Engine Specification.
12 Check crankshaft main bearing journals,
see Engine Specification.
· Silcosef Sealant
Figure 25
Sealing cylinder liners
13 Fit new main bearings to crankshaft and
bearings caps.
14 Fit new thrust washers to the crankshaft
ensuring the thrust face of the first washer.
The engine
makes good contact with the ground face of
the crankshaft.
15 Replace crankshaft to cylinder block, fit
main bearing caps in correct order, rear, centre,
front and secure with six i UNF nuts and plain
washers. Always fit new bearing cap nuts and
tighten to a torque of 3·316kg m (241b ft).
16 Fit a new oil seal into the rear cover,
position a new gasket and secure rear cover to
the cylinder block ensuring the dowels are
firmly seated in their locations.
17 Fit front and rear bridge pieces and cork
packing ensuring the end faces are flush with
the cylinder block and secure with four
5
1 6 UNC screws.
18
5
1 6
17
Section F
Replace rear engine plate, fixing with four
UNC set screws and lockwashers.
19 Fit flywheel assembly to crankshaft and
secure with three~ UNF bolts and tab washers,
tightening to a torque of 1·66-2·07kg m
(12-151b ft). Check flywheel run out (see
Operation 2).
20 Replace front engine plate and new gasket
to the cylinder block and secure with two~ UNC
set screws and lockwashers.
21 Fit crankshaft bi-metal thrust washers
with oil slots facing forward, and steel thrust
washer with its countersunk aperture facing
rearwards.
No. RT7481, and secure with seven ~ UNC
bolts, two~ UNC nuts and lockwashers (see
Figure 10).
29 Replace crankshaft pulley and secure with
~ UNF bolt. plain washer and lockwasher.
30 Locate a new gasket and then fit the oil
pump assembly, complete with filter, securing
to the cylinder block with two 156 UN F nut and
lockwashers.
31
Fit a new gasket and replace sump
tightening the fifteen ~ UNC set screws, spacing
washers and lockwashers evenly.
32 Clean the cylinder head and block faces
and fit a new gasket. Smear grease around the
metal edges of the gasket bore eyelets.
33 Carefully position the cylinder head
squarely on the cylinder block and secure with
three 156 UNF and twelve l UNF nuts, plain
washers and lockwashers. The three 156 UN F
nuts must be fitted to the spark plug side of the
cylinder head. Check that all cylinder head nuts
indicated in Figure 13 are tightened in the
order shown to a torque of 3·46kg m (251b ft).
The three remaining nuts should be tightened
to a torque of 2·07kg m (151b ft).
34 Replace the push rods keeping them in
their correct order.
22 Fit Woodruff key sprocket spacer and
crankshaft sprocket.
35 Locate rockershaft assembly on the four
studs and secure firmly with two~ UNF nuts
and washers to a torque of 2·35-3·04kg m
(17-22lb ft). Check tappet clearance (see
Operation 16).
23 Using the crankshaft pulley or flywheel
turn the crankshaft until the woodruff key is
pointing to eleven o'clock.
36 Fit a new gasket and replace rocker cover
securing in position with two 156 UNF nuts and
washers.
24 Turn camshaft so that the groove ~n the
end of the camshaft is in alignment with the
woodruff key on the crankshaft.
37
25 Replace camshaft sprocket along with
timing chain and secure with two 156 UNC bolts
and locking plate.
26 Using a straight edge, check the camshaft
sprocket is in alignment with the crankshaft
sprocket. The valve timing ll)ark·on camshaft
sprocket should now be pointing to Woodruff
key on crankshaft.
27 Check timing chain tensioner for wear,
renewing if necessary, and locate on the lug in
the timing chain cover.
28 Fit timing chain cover and new gasket to
front engine plate, using centralising tool
Replace ancilliaries.
38 Install the engine and gearbox assembly
(see Operation 1 ).
Operation 16- Tappet adjustment
Tappet clearances are 0·152mm (0·006in) cold
0·254mm (0·01 Oin) hot.
Remove the rocker cover and adjust in the
following order, with each valve in the fully
closed position, using general tool No. 6500A
(see Figure 27).
No. 1 valve with No. 8 valve fully open.
No. 2 valve with No. 7 valve fully open.
No. 3 valve with No. 6 valve fully open.
No. 4 valve with No. 5 valve fully open.
The engine
Section F
No. 5 valve with No. 4 valve fully open.
No.6 valve with No. 3 valve fully open.
No. 7 valve with No. 2 valve fully open.
No. 8 valve with No. 1 valve fully open.
Figure 27
18
Stud removal
Damaged studs should be removed with
extractor tool, Part No. 450A. in conjunction
with tappet adjustment wrench, Part No. 6500A,
as shown in Figure 28.
Tappet adjustment
Figure 28
Stud removal
Engine specifi cat ion
Cylinder head
Material
Joint washer thickness
Aluminium alloy
1 ·02mm {0·040in)
Cylinder block
Material
Aluminium alloy with cast iron liners
Crankshaft
Material
Main bearing journa ls
Crankpin journals
End float
Forged high tensi le steel
44·44-44·45mm {1 ·7495-1 ·7500in)
33·32- 33·33mm {1·3120-1·3125in)
0·0254mm {0·001 in) Min
~ - 1524mm {0·006in) Max
Crankshaft regrinding size
0·254mm {0·01 Oin)
1st undersize
Main bearing journals
44·18-44·19.mm {1 ·7395-1·7400in )
Crankpin journals
33·07- 33·08mm {1 ·3020-1 ·3025in)
2nd undersize
0·508mm {0·020in)
Main bearing journals
43 ·93-43 ·94mm (1 ·7295- 1·7300in)
Crankpin journals
32·81 - 32·82mm {1 ·2920-1 ·2925in)
3rd undersize
1 ·016mm {0·040in)
Main bearing journals
43·42-43 ·43mm (1 ·7095- 1 ·710in )
Crankpin journals
32·31 - 32·32mm {1 ·2720-1·2725in)
Note: Connecting -rod, big-end main bearing shells are available to suit crankshafts reground to the
above sizes.
Pistons
Material
Size
All lands
At skirt
Low expansion aluminium alloy
62·53mm (2·462in)
62·17- 62·26mm {2·448-2-451 in)
62·47- 62·50mm {2·459- 2·638in)
The engine
19
Section F
Piston rings
Gap
Width (compression)
Width (scraper)
0·17-0·30mm (0·007-0·012in)
1·245-1·250mm (0·049-0·050in)
Groove clearance 0·038-0·089mm
(0·0015-0·0035in)
3·150-3·175mm (0·124-0·125in)
Groove clearance 0·038-0·089mm
(0·0015-0·0035in)
Gudgeon pin
Diameter
14·283-14·288mm (0·5623-0·5625in)
Small end bush
Bore
14·22-14·298mm (0·5627-0·5630in)
Camshaft
Bearing diameter
Bearing clearances
End float
Chain pitch
Number of pitches
39·673-39·674mm (1·562-1·5625in)
0·012-0·051 mm (0·0005-0·002in)
0·064-0·16mm (0·0025-0·0065in)
9·525mm (0·375in)
50
Valves
Seat angle
Seat width:
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve lift
Valve guide lengths (inlet and exhaust)
Valve guide clearance
1·397-1·524mm (0·055-0·060in)
1·397-1·524mm (0·055-0·060in)
7·34mm (0·289in)
41·4-41·66mm (1·630-1·640in)
0·0381-0·0889mm (0·0015-0·0035in)
Springs
Free length
Fitted length and load
Length and load valve open
38·00mm (1 ·496in)
34·11mm (1·343in) at 14·855kg (32·751b)
28·60mm (1·125in) at 27·216kg (60·001b)
Flywheel
Material
Diameter
Chromium cast iron
246·126mm (9·69in)
Starter ring
Number of teeth
Diameter over teeth
100
257·81mm (10·15in}
Crankshaft identification
Colour code
45°
-0·254mm (-0·010in) red
-0·508mm ( -0·020in) blue
-1 ·016mm (- 0·040in) green
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
Section F
Engine-Cutaway
Description
Routine maintenance
The 850cc engine is a four-cylinder in -line
unit having a diecast aluminium cylinder
head with cast iron valve guides and sintered
iron seats. Diecast aluminium is also used for
the cylinder block which incorporates
removable wet liners. The forged steel
crankshaft is mounted on three steel backed
main bearings.
The engine oil level should be checked weekly
and topped-up if necessary to keep the oil
capacity at 3·13 litres (5 ·50 pints) . It is
important that this capacity is kept constant
for any appreciable drop in the level will
result in poor lubrication and possible engine
damage.
To ensure the lubrication system is kept clean
and free from impurities. the engine oil should
be changed and a new oil filter fitted every
6.000 miles.
The engine
2
Engine service operations
The following service operations give
detailed instructions for servicing and
dismantling all the major engine assemblies.
Where it is necessary to remove ancillary
components and. parts refer to the appropriate
sections of the workshop manual.
Before reassembly during any operation, all
components should be thoroughly cleaned,
paying particular attention to joint faces and
bearing surfaces. Any local high spots or burrs
on the joint faces should be carefully removed
using a fine file. Ensure that any piece of
gasket or dirt in a blind tapped hole is
removed during cleaning, .as the bolt or screw
may bottom before the bolt head abuts the
mating part. When tightening a bolt which
bottoms a characteristic springiness may be
felt. If this occurs the bolt should be removed
and the hole cleaned out.
Operation 1 - Engine removal and
installation
The engine should be removed complete with
gearbox.
To remove
1
Disconnect battery.
2
Drain cooling system.
3
Drain engine oil.
12 Disconnect high and low tension leads
from the coil.
13
Remove air cleaner.
14
Disconnect the acceleratbr cable from the
carburettor bracket, and release cable from
trunnion.
15
Disconnect the choke cable at the
carburettor.
16
Slacken hose clips and disconnect the
water pump and thermostat housing hoses
at the manifold adaptor.
17
Disconnect fuel trap reduction sleeve at
the carburettor and unclip the fuel trap from
mounting bracket.
18
Disconnect the breather pipe from the
carburettor to the filler cap.
19 Release the accelerator cable return
spring from the abutment bracket on the
cylinder head.
20
Disconnect the fuel pipe, carburettor to
pump, taking.care not to damage the pipe
when removing the retaining clips. Remove
fuel pipe supporting ·p· clip from the rocker
cover stud.
21 Remove two nuts and lockwashers
securing the manifold adaptor and drip tray to
the manifold and remove complete with
carburettor.
4 ·Slacken hose clip and disconnect the
radiator top hose from the thermostat housing.
5 Slacken hose clip and disconnect the
radiator bottom hose from the water pump.
6
Slacken hose clip and disconnect heater
hose at water pump.
22 Disconnect petrol supply pipe at fuel
pump and plug to prevent loss of fuel and
ingress of dirt.
23 Disconnect the clutch cable from the
operating arm, remove the locknut and
adjusting nut and withdraw the cable from
the trunnion.
7
Slacken hose clip and disconnect heater
hose from cylinder head adaptor and unclip
from mounting bracket attached to rocker
cover stud.
24 Pull the clutch cable outer sleeve from
the retaining hole in the engine backplate.
25
8
Disconnect alternator lead and remove
alternator.
Disconnect exhaust downpipe at
manifold.
26
9
Remove starter motor.
Disconnect starter mdtor lead.
10 DiscOnnect temperature gauge sender
unit lead at thermostat housing.
11 Disconnect the oil pressure warning light
lead from the sender on the cylinder block, or
disconnect the oil pressure pipe if a gauge
is fitted.
27 Disconnect speedometer cable at
gearbox rear cover.
28 Remove heater and choke knobs from
centre console, unscrew locking nuts and
disconnect heater and choke cables.
29
Unscrew gear lever knob.
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
30 Remove two screws securing rear of
centre console to driveshaft tunnel and lift
console complete with gaiter over gear lever.
31 Prise out the spring retaining clip from
the gear lever ball joint cap on the gearbox top
cover to remove the gear lever.
32 Unscrew six self-tapping screws and
remove engine rear acces$ panel.
33 Disconnect driveshaft from gearbox rear
coupling.
34 Remove two self-locking nuts and
washers, securing the engine front mounting
rubbers to chassis mounting brackets.
35 Before removing gearbox rear mounting,
support engine and gearbox assembly by
means of a suitable jack from underneath the
vehicle or lifting gear through bonnet aperture.
36 Remove three set screws and self-locking
nuts to detach gearbox support bracket from
chassis mounting.
Note: One set screw and nut also secures
earthing braid.
3
Note: Secure earthing braid at one fixing
point.
6 Reconnect driveshaft to gearbox rear
coupling with four bolts, nuts and lockwashers. ·
7 Secure engine front mounting rubbers to
chassis with two self-locking nuts and
washers.
Note: Ensure mounting rubber restrictor cups
are correctly fitted if removed when
dismantling engine.
8 Fit engine rear access panel to bulkhead
with six self-tapping screws.
9 Locate gear lever in gearbox top cover and
secure in position with cap and retaining clip.
10 Lower centre console, including rubber
gaiter over gear lever, and fit to driveshaft
tunnel with two screws.
11 Replace gear lever knob and check that
the rubber gaiter is correctly seated.
12 Fit locking nuts and press choke and
heater knobs onto control cables on centre
console.
37 Pull engine and gearbox assembly
slightly forward, lift to clear engine front
mounting brackets and then carefully lower
assembly onto a suitable base.
'" 13
14
Refit starter motor.
38 Remove two bolts, six nuts and six
lockwashers and separate the engine and
gearbox assembly.
15
Reconnect exhaust downpipe to manifold.
39 Remove ancillary components (see
appropriate section) and carry out the
necessary service operations.
Reconnect speedometer cable at gearbox
rear ·cover.
16 Feed the clutch cable outer sleeve
through the retaining hole in th€ engine
backplate.
17 Feed the clutch cable through the
trunnion on the clutch operating arm and
secure with the locknut and adjusting nut.
\
To replace
1 Refit ancillary components.
2 Secure the engine and gearbox assembly
together with the two bolts, six nuts and six
lockwashers.
3 Support the engine and gearbox with
lifting gear or a suitable jack and offer up to
the
vehicle, chassis.
.
.
4 Carefully raise the assembly and locate
engine mounting rubbers in front chassis
mounting bracket.
5 Raise the gearbox and position gearbox
support brack,et in line with its chassis
mounting and secure with three set screws
and self-locking nuts.
18 Remove plug and connect petrol supply
pipe at fuel pump.
19 Secure the manifold adaptor complete
with carburettor and drip tray to the manifold.
20 Reconnect fuel pipe, carburettor to pump,
and secure with retaining clips. Refit ·p· clip
to rocker cover stud.
21 Refit accelerator cable return spring to
abutment bracket.
22 Reconnect breather pipe from carburettor
to filler cap.
23 Reconnect fuel trap reduction sleeve to
carburettor and secure fuel trap to mounting
bracket.
The engine
4
24 Reconnect water pump and thermostat
housing hoses to manifold adaptor.
2 Hold the flywheel assembly in a soft-jawed
vice.
26 Reconnect choke cable and accelerator
cable at carburettor.
3 Place a cloth of heavy material over the
ring gear as a protection against flying
fragments.
26
Refit air cleaner.
27 Reconnect high and low tension leads
at coil.
28 Reconnect oil pressure warning light lead.
or oil pressure pipe if gauge is fitted.
29 Reconnect temperature gauge sender unit
lead at thermostat housing.
30
Reconnect starter motor lead.
31
Refit alternator and connect leads.
32 Reconnect heater hose at cylinder head
adaptor. refit jubilee clip and secure hose to
mounting bracket attached to rocker cover
stud.
33 Reconnect heater hose at water pump
and secure with jubi lee clip.
34 Reconnect radiator bottom hose at
water pump.
Warning : Ensure adequate protection,
particularly for the eyes, to prevent injury from
the possibility of flying fragments when the
ring gear is split.
4 Place a cold chisel immediately above the
centre line of the drilled hole and strike
sharply to split the ring gear.
Refitting
1 Heat the replacement ring gear uniformly
to a maximum of 200"C.
2 Place the flywheel on a flat surface. clutch
face side uppermost. and clean the ring gear
locating surface.
3 Locate the ring gear and hold in position
until it contracts sufficiently to grip the
flywheel.
4 Allow the ring gear to cool gradually to
avoid distortion.
'
35 Reconnect radiator top hose at thermostat
housing.
36 Refill engine and gearbox with
recommended oil.
37
Refill the cooling system.
38
R econnectbatte~ .
Operation 2 - Flywheel and ring
gear removal and replacement
Flywheel removal
1 Remove the gearbox (see Section G ).
2 Unscrew six set screws. complete with
lockwashers. and remove the clutch assembly
from the flywheel.
3 Release the tabwasher. unscrew three set
screws, and remove the flywheel assembly
from the crankshaft.
Starter ring gear removal
1 Drill a hole 6·35mm (0·25in) diameter at
the point of intersection of a scribed line
between any two teeth and a scribed line
midway between the root diameter and the
inside diameter of the ring gear. Ensure that
the hole is not drilled through the ring gear
into the flywheel. as this will interfere with the
subsequent balance of the flywheel.
C>
Figure 1
Fitting flywheel bearing
Refitting flywheel assembly
1 Clean the flywheel mating face with the
crankshaft and crankshaft flange. Check the
dowel for damage, and check that the
crankshaft spigot bush is in position. Check
the bush for wear. If wear is evident, knock
out the bush and fit a new one using tool
No. RT 7485 (see Figure 1). Needle roller
bearings have been used as an alternative to
the bush and care must be taken when
replacing these. It is important to note that the
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
5
The engine
hardened, square end face of the bearing must
face the tool used to press in the bearing. Use
of the rolled end of the bearing will lead to
shell distortion and needle failure. The
manufacturer's name and designation number
may be stamped on the hardened end face in
some instances, enabling it to be easily
identified. However, this does not apply with
all manufacturers and care should be
exercised to identify the correct end by its
shape.
2 Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft, locating
over the dowel in the crankshaft.
3 Secure the flywheel assembly to the
crankshaft with three set screws. and a
tabwasher, tightening to a torque of 4·03 kg m
(291bft) . The tabs of the washer should then
be bent over to lock the set screws.
Operation 3 - Sump removal and
replacement
1
Drain engine oil.
2 Unscrew fifteen set screws and remove
spacers, lockwashers, sump and gasket.
3 Clean the sump and its seating on the
cylinder block face.
4 To eliminate possible oil leakage the two
centre front and rear fixing screw threads
should be thoroughly cleaned with petrol and
coated with Hylomar sealant before refitting.
5 Fit new gasket, replace sump and tighten
the fifteen set screws, spacers and lockwashers
evenly.
4 Check the flywheel for misalignment using
a clock indicator gauge. A 0·08-0·13 mm
(0·003-0·005 in) run-out is permitted, but if
this is exceeded the flywheel must be
replaced with a new assembly.
Operation 4 - Oil pump removal
and replacement
(with sump removed)
5 Using tool No. RT 7485 as a centraliser, or
a primary gear from a gearbox, replace the
clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on the
flywheel, securing evenly with six set screws
and lockwashers to a torque of 1·66-2·07 kg m
(12- 151bft) see Figure 2. The pressure plate
assembly should be tapped with a hide mallet
to ensure that it is square on the flywheel.
1
2 Disconnect spark plug leads from the plug
terminals.
3 Remove the high and low tension leads
from the coil.
4
6
Check clutch run-out does not exceed
0·381 mm (0·015 in) on the steel thrust disc.
7
Rotate engine until on TDC.
Refit gearbox.
Unscrew the single bolt, complete with
washer and lockwasher, securing the
distributor clamp to the cylinder block and
remove the distributor. Do not disturb the
clamping bolt securing the distributor unless
the ignition timing is to be adjusted.
5 Unscrew two nuts, complete with
lockwashers and remove oil pump assembly,
including filter, from the cylinder block
(Figure 4 ).
6
Drift out the pin securing the thrust muff
to the distributor/ oil pump driveshaft which
can then be withdrawn upwards through the
distributor housing.
7
Figure 2
Centralising the clutch
Inspect oil pump and driveshatt assemblies
for possible damage and renew if necessary.
Note: In production it has sometimes been
necessary to fit one or two 0·127 mm
(0·005 in) shims between the oil pump
driveshaft bush and the cylinder block (see
Figure&) .
It is not necessary, when dismantling the oil
pump, to remove the drive bush or shim, if
fitted. However, if the bush and shim are
removed, it is important that they are both
replaced when re-assembling the pump.
The engine
6
Failure to replace the shim or shims will cause
excessive end float of distributor driveshaft,
resulting in poor meshing of the drive gear and
engine noise.
The backlash between camshaft gear and
driveshaft gear must not exceed 0 ·0762 mm
(0·003in) .
Figure 3
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Reassemble components in reverse order.
Refit pump to cylinder block ensuring that the
engine is on TDC.
When replacing the oil pump driveshaft ensure
the large ' 0 ' of the driving gear offset dog is
facing towards the cylinder block with the slot
aligned in a '5 minutes past 7 o'clock' position.
Engine, cylinder block - exploded
Cylinder block
Stud. cylinder head
Stud
Stud
Stud
Stud. water pump
Stud, alternator strap
Stud. fuel pump
Stud. main bearing housmg cap
Washer
Nut
Core plug, camshaft
Bridge piece front
Bridge piece, rear
Packing, bridge piece
Screw
Cylinder liner
Plug, water drain
Washer. plug
Dipstick
Tube, dipstick
Mounting plate
Gasket
Stud, plate to block
Nut. plate to block
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
Lockwasher
Cover. timing chain
Gasket
Oil seal, cover
Bolt
Bolt
Bolt
Lockwasher
Nut
Oil filter
Adaptor, oil filter
Plug
Switch. oil pressure
Retainer oil pressure relief valve
Washer
Spring
Ball
Insert
Mounting plate
Dowel
Dowel
Set screw
Set screw
Washer
Lock washer
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
Oil seal. crankshaft rear
Rear cover
Gasket
Set screw
Set screw
Washer
Lockwasher
Dowel
Sump
Plug. sump dram
Washer
Gasket
Set screw
Lock washer
Washer
Nut
Washer
Nut
Lock washer
Restrictor cup
Mounting rubber
Washer
Nut
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
7
Operation 5 - Crankshaft rear
cover and oil seal replacement
(with flywheel removed)
1 Unscrew six set screws and remove oil seal
cover, complete with oil seal and gasket from
the cylinder block.
2
Using a suitable tool, press the oil seal
from the rear cover.
Note: Do not use a screwdriver as this will
damage the oil seal seating.
3
Carefully press a new oil seal into the rear
cover. To ensure the seal is seated firmly and
squarely use a press tool. similar to that shown
in Figure 6.
4 Locate the two dowels of the rear cover in
the cylinder block and then secure the cover
with six set screws and lockwashers (see
Figure 7) .
Operation 6 -Timing chain cover,
oil seal and gasket replacement
(without engine removal)
1
Figure 4
Figure 5
11 Lockwasher
2 Remove the radiator, complete with hoses,
from the vehicle.
12 Nut
13 Oil pump driving shaft
3 Slacken alternator mountings and remove
the fan belt.
Oil pump - exploded
1 Oil pump
2 Gasket
3 Extension- Early engines
4 Filter
5 Set screw
6 Extension - Later engines
7 Bolt
8 Lockwasher
9 Gasket
10 Stud
Drain the cooling system.
14 Gear
15 Shaft
16 Pin thrust muff and gear
17 Thrust muff
18 Bush
19 Shim
Oil pump driveshaft shims
4 Unscrew four nuts and lockwashers and
remove the water pump from cylinder block.
5 Unscrew the retaining bolt and withdraw
the crankshaft pulley.
Figure 6
Replacing rear cover oil seal
,
The engine
8
Figure 7
Fitting rear cover
8
Remove seven bolts and two nuts,
complete with lockwashers, and detach the
timing chain cover from the cylinder block.
7 Extract oil seal from cover using tool
No. RT 7480 and drive handle part No. 550
(see Figure 8 ).
8
Fit new oil seal, using tool No. RT 7480
and drive handle, locating as shown in
Figure 9.
9
With the aid of centralising tool part No.
RT 7481 fit the timing chain cover complete
with gasket, to cylinder block, securing with
seven bolts, two nuts and lockwashers (see
Figure 10).
Figure 9
Replacing front cover oil seal
11 Replace radiator, reconnect hoses and
refill the cooling system.
Operation 7- Timing chai n
replacement
(with front cover removed)
1 Release locking plate, unscrew two bolts,
remove camshaft sprocket and lift off timing
chain. Retain camshaft sprocket locking plate.
10 Replace crankshaft pulley, water pump,
refit fan belt. and secure alternator.
2 Fit new timing chain to crankshaft and
camshaft sprocket which can be secured to
the camshaft, using the locking plate and
two bolts.
Figure 8
Figure 10
Extracting front cover oil seal
Centralising front cover
Robin 850 Workshop Manua l Supplement
The engine
9
3 Check valve timing, ensuring that the
timing mark of the camshaft sprocket aligns
with the Woodruff key on the crankshaft
(see Figure 11 ).
4 Check the timing chain tensioner for wear
and replace if necessary.
1
2
Timing mark
Woodruff key
10 Fit a new camshaft sprocket lock plate,
refit the bolts and bend the tabs.
Operation 9 - Cylinder head
remova l
(w ithout engine removed)
1
Disconnect battery.
2
Remove blower motor air hose.
3
Drain cooling system.
4
Release the two retaining clips and remove
the air cleaner body from its base plate.
5 Remove two bolts securing the air cleaner
base plate to the carburettor.
8
Remove the oil filler cap, disconnecting
the engine ventilation pipe from the
carburettor.
7
Disconnect the heater hoses from the inlet
manifold adaptor and the water pump.
Figure 11
Alignment of camshaft sprocket
and Woodruff key
Operation 8 - Camshaft sprocket
alignment (timing chain cover and
timing chain removed)
1 First ensure that the timing mark on the
camshaft sprocket aligns with the Woodruff
key on the crankshaft to align No. 1 or No. 4
piston on TDC.
8
Remove the radiator top hose.
9
Remove the distributor cap and leads.
10 To allow easier access remove the single
fixing bolt securing the distributor to the
cy linder block and remove the distributor.
11 Remove the two rocker cover nuts and
remove cover complete with the heater hose
and fuel pipe clips.
3 Ensure that the timing mark, a notch, on
the camshaft end aligns with the Woodruff key
·
on the crankshaft.
1 2 Remove the petrol pipe from the
carburettor, plug to prevent ingress of dirt.
Remove the pipe from the clip on the side pf
the cylinder head and hold the pipe back to
the side of the engine compartment w ith
adhesive tape to facilitate access to the
cylinder head.
4
Remove the crankshaft Woodruff key.
13
&
Temporarily refit both sprockets.
2
Release locking plate, unscrew two bolts
and remove the locking plate and sprocket.
8
Check the alignment of the sprockets by
placing a straight edge across the teeth of both
sprockets.
Disconnect the lead from the temperature
sender in the thermostat housing.
14 Disconnect the accelerator cable from
the carburettor bracket.
1 & Disconnect the choke cable from the
carburettor.
7
Correct any misalignment by fitting an
alternative spacer behind the crankshaft
sprocket. Alternative crankshaft sprocket
spacers, increasing in thickness by 0·005in,
are available.
8
Remove the sprockets.
9
Refit the drive key.
18
Disconnect the inlet manifold hoses at
the manifold adaptor.
17
Disconnect the advance and retard/ fuel
trap pipe from the carburettor.
18
Disconnect the accelerator return spring
from t he throttle linkage.
The engine
10
Figure 12
Cylinder head and manifolds- exploded
1 Cylinder head
2 Stud
3 Stud
4 Stud
5 Stud
6 Gasket
7 Plug. oilway
8 Core plug
9 Plate. return spring
10 Connection. hose
11 Temperature transmitter
1 2 Thermostat
1 3 Water outlet branch
14 Gasket
15 Set screw
16 Washer
17 Rocker cover
18 Gasket. cover
19 ·p· clip
20 Support brack.e t
21 Washer
22 Nut
23 Oil filler cap
24
ring. cap
25 Breather pipe
26 Gasket. exhaust manifold
27 Manifold. exhaust
28 Stud. downpipe
29 Nut. manifold .
30 Washer. manifold
·o·
19 Remove the nut securing the carburettor
abutment bracket to the carburettor.
20 Remove the remaining nut securing the
carburettor to the manifold. Remove carburettor
complete with gasket.
31 Manifold. inlet
32 Stud. manifold
33 Nut manifold
34 Loclcwasher. manifold
35 Stud
36 Washer
37 Nut
38 Orip tray
39 Manifold adaptor
40 Stud
41 Gasket
42 Nut
43 Loclcwasher
44 Hose
45 Hose
46 Clip
21 Remove two nuts and washers and
remove the adaptor from the manifold studs,
complete with gasket.
22 Remove the drip tray complete with
gasket.
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
11
The engine
23 Remove the four nuts securing the rocker
shaft. Remove the rocker shaft assembly.
24 Remove the eight push rods. carefully
noting their correct order for subsequent
replacement.
Operation 1 0 - Cylinder head
decarbonise (with cylinder head
removed)
1
Remove the spark plugs.
~amove the nuts and lockwashers securing
the mlet and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder
head. Remove the manifolds and carefully
remove the manifold gasket.
2
2& Disconnect the downpipe from the
exhaust manifold. secured by two nuts.
28
Remove the three nuts and lockwashers
securing the cylinder head to the cylinder
block on the spark plug side.
27
Remove the three bolts securing the
thermostat housing to the cylinder head.
28
Remove the nut securing the dipstick
support bracket and earth lead to the cylinder
head.
29 Remove the 12 nuts and washers
securing the cylinder head to the cylinder
block studs.
30
Remove by-pass hose from thermostat
housing. fitted on early vehicles only.
3~
~arefully lift the cylinder head complete
w1th mlet and exhaust manifolds from the
cylinder block. Replace in reverse order. after
cleaning the cylinder head and block faces
and fitting a new gasket.
To ensure a good seal when replacing the
cylinder head. smear grease around the metal
edges of the gasket bore eyelets.
Tighten the cylinder head nuts to a torque of
3·_46kgm (25·01bft) in the sequence shown in
F1gure 13. The three nuts fitted to the spark
plug side of the cylinder head should be
tightened to a torque of 2·07kgm (15 1bft) .
3 Usi ng a suitable valve spring compression
tool. remove the valves from the cylinder head.
keeping in correct order. Retain the valve
springs. cups and cotters for inspection.
4
Check the inlet and exhaust valve guides
for wear and renew if necessary.
& If valve guides are worn remove them
using tool No. RT 7478 (see Figure 14) .
8
Examine the valve seats for pitting and
wear. Reface where necessary. removing the
minimum of material.
7
Examine the valves for burning and reface
if necessary. Replace any valves having bent
or worn stems.
8
Test the valve springs for fatigue to the
dimensions given in the data at the end of
this section.
9 Remove carbon deposits from the
combustion chambers and ports. Use a piece
of sharpened wood to break up the carbon.
and then polish with wire wool.
Figure 14
Figure 13
Cylinder head nut
tightening sequence
Valve guide removal and
replacement
1 Valve guide removal
2 Valve guide replacement
3 Valve gu1de protection sleeve
The engine
12
10 Clean the face of the cylinder head and
remove all traces of carbon and any high spots.
11 Clean out tb_e water ways.
If deposits exist on the piston crowns
proceed as follows:
(a) Turn the crankshaft until the Nos. 1 and 4
pistons are at TDC.
(b) Fill the Nos. 2 and 3 cylinder liner botes
with clean non-fluffy rag to prevent carbon
falling into the bores, and cover the cam
follower apertures.
(c) Carefully, without scoring the piston
crown, remove the carbon deposits leaving a
band of carbon approximately 3·1 mm (iin)
wide around the periphery of the piston crown,
on No. 1 piston. Avoid carbon particles falling
into the cylinder block water ways. Repeat for
No. 4 piston.
(d) Turn the crankshaft to enable pistons 2
and 3 to be cleaned.
5 Push the connecting rods and pistons
upwards and carefully withdraw, identifying
for reassembly.
6 Match up the top and bottom bearing
shells and caps with their respective
connecting rods and piston assemblies.
Overhaul
1 Immerse piston and con rod assemblies in
hot water for a few minutes, then release the
gudgeon pin retaining circlips.
2 Using a suitable drift remove the gudgeon
pins and disconnect the con rods from the
oistons.
3 Check the small end bushes for wear and,
if necessary, renew using a suitable hand press
to remove the old bushes and fit new. Ensure
that the oil hole in the bush corresponds with
the hole in the connecting rod.
4
To replace
1 Clean th~ cylinder block face, removing all
traces of carbon and any high spots.
Having pressed in new small end bushes,
check that they will accept new gudgeon pins,
for it may be necessary to ream out the bushes
with an expanding reamer until a tight push
fit is obtained.
Note: It is im~rtant during this operation
that the bush is reamed squarely to the con
rod to ensure correct alignment.
2
Replace valve guides in cylinder head
using tool No. RT 7478 {see Figure 14).
3
Lap,.in the valves using fine grinding paste
until a gas-tight joint is obtained. Ensure
valves are replaced in original positions and
that no grinding paste particles remain.
4 lubricate the valve stems with clean
engine oil and assemble to the cylinder head.
Ensure that valve spring collars and split cotters
are correctly seated. Renew valve stem
·
oil seals.
Refit the cylinder head, using a new cylinder
he~d gasket.
Operation 11 - Pistons, connecting
rods and bearing replacement (with
cylinder head and sump removed)
'
6
Clean the pistons, removing all carbon
deposits, particularly from the piston ring
grooves.
7 Assemble pistons to the connecting rods,
securing in position with the gudgeon pins
and circlips. It may be necessary to heat the
pistons in hot water to facilitate the operation.
Note: Engines up to No. 5J/85/25866 have
angled con rods which must be assembled
with cutaway angle on camshaft side.
8 Before fitting the piston rings, position the
rings in their appropriate liners for gapping,
which should be 0·17-0·30mm (0·0070·012in).
To remove
1 Remove oil pump assembly (see
Operation 4).
2 Turn the crankshaft to bring numbers 1
and. 4. connecting rod bolts,to
an accessible
\
pOSitiOn.
5 Remove the piston rings with an expander
tool and clean.
9
~
3 Check the identifying marks on the
connecting rods and bearing caps. Mark if
necessary.
Fit the piston rings, fitting the scraper ring
in the lower piston groove, followed by the
taper compression ring.
Note: The 'top' mark Qn the taper compression
ring must face uppermost. The upper groove in
the piston accommodates the plain
compress1on ring.
4
Release the locking plates, unscrew the
bolts and remove the big end bearing caps,
complete with the lower half bearing shells.
10 Insert the piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the appropriate bores,
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
13
ensuring that the 'front' mark on the piston
crowns are facing forward. The piston rings
should be arranged so that the gaps are
equi-spaced around the piston circumference.
i.e. 120• apart. ensuring that no gap is in line
with the gudgeon pin. Compress the rings
using a tool similar to that shown in
Figure 1&.
11 Fit new big end bearings into the
connecting rod end caps.
12
Pull down the connecting rod and
locate onto the crankshaft. position the caps
and secure in position with bolts and locking
plates, tightening to a torque of 2·90kg m
(211bft) . Ensure that the correct con rod caps
are fitted to the corresponding con rods.
13 Replace oil pump assembly, sump and
cylinder head.
Operation 12- Crankshaft removal
and installation (with sump, front
cover, flywheel, rear oil seal cover,
connecting rods and camshaft
sprocket removed)
1 Remove two bolts and lockwashers and
detach the camshaft retaining plate.
2 Unscrew two nuts, complete with
lockwashers and remove front engine plate
and gaskets from cylinder block.
3 Unscrew four set screws and remove the
rear engine plate from the cylinder block.
4
Remove four screws and detach the front
and rear bridge pieces from the cylinder block.
& Disconnect all three main bearing caps,
each secured by two nuts and washer~.
6
The crankshaft can now be withdrawn
from the cylinder block.
Overhaul
1 Inspect and check crankshaft main
bearing journals.
2 Fit new bearing shells to crankshaft and
bearing caps (see data for reground journal
and oversize bearings available) .
3 Position the crankshaft complete with
bearing shells and refit 'rear' and 'centre'
bearing caps.
4
Locate the upper half of the thrust washer
in the register on the inside face of the
crankshaft bearing bore in the crank case.
Figure 1 &
Compressing rings for
refitting pistons
5 Position the 'front' bearing cap and locate
the lower half of the thrust washer in the
register in the cap inside face.
Note : The thrust washer is fitted so that the
'thrust face', identified by oil grooves, bears
against the crankshaft ground face .
. 6 Fit new bearing cap nuts and washers and
tighten to a torque of 3 ·31 kgm (241bft) .
Check the crankshaft end float as follows:
(a) Assemble the two halves of the outer
thrust washer in the register on the outside
face of the 'front' bearing cap and block.
Ensure that the oil grooves are facing
forwards.
(b) Position the steel countersunk thrust
washer, against the by-metal thru >t washer
halves, with its countersunk apert Jre facing
rearwards.
(c) Replace crankshaft sprocket spacer and
sprocket.
(d) Position crankshaft pulley and secure with
bolt, plain washer and lockwasher.
(e) Turn crankshaft assembly to ensure
freedom of movement and secure a dial gauge
to the crank case so that the indicator
plunger rests. in a loaded condition, against a
machined surface on a crankshaft balance
weight.
(f) Carefully strike the rear end of the
crankshaft with a hide mallet to force the
shaft against the dial indicator plunger. Zero
the dial.
(g) Carefully strike the pulley end of the
crankshaft to force it in the opposite direction
and note the gauge reading, which should
indicate 0 ·0764-0 ·279mm (0·003-0·011 in) .
(h) If necessary, adjust end float by removing
the front main bearing cap and existing thrust
washers and renewing with thrust washers of
a suitable thickness (see data at end of this
section, page 21 ).
The engi ne
14
Refit bearing cap complete w ith shell
bearings and recheck the end float.
Note: The end float may also be checked with
feeler gauges inserted between the thrust
w asher and the ground face of the
crankshaft.
Figure 16
To replace
Replace components in reverse order.
Note : When refitting front and rear bridge
pieces care should be taken to ensure that
their faces mate flush with the cylinder block
face. New cork inserts should be fitted when
replacing bridge pieces.
Engine, crankshaft and camshaft - exploded
1 Crankshaft
2 Flywheel assembly
3 Flywheel
4 Gear. flywheel
6 Dowel
6 Bearing. crankshaft
7 Tabwasher. flywheel
8 Set screw
9 Connecting rod
10 Small end bearing
11 Big end bearing
12 Bolt
13 Plate
14 Piston assembly
16 Compression ring
16 Taper ring
17 Scraper ring
18 Gudgeon pin
19 Circllp
20 Thrust washer. crankshaft
21 Thrust washer. crankshaft
22 Sprocket
23 Pulley
24 Key
25 Spacer
26 Bolt
27 Washer
28 Lockwasher
29 M ain bearing crankshaft
30 Camshaft
31 Bearing. camshaft
32 Core plug
33 Plate
34 Bolt
35 Lockwasher
36 Sprocket
37 Plate
38 Screw
39 T1ming chain
40 Tens1oner. timing cha1n
41 Tappet
42 Push rod
43 Screw
44 Locknut
46 Rocker. LH
46 Rocker. RH
47 Rocker shaft
48 Bracket
49 Bracket
50 Screw
51 Washer
52 Nut
53 Spring. rocker shaft
54 Spnng. rocker shaft end
55 Washer
56 Spht pin
57 Plug
68 Valve. inlet
59 Insert. inlet valve
60 Spring valve
61 Cup. valve spring
62 Seal. valve stem
63 Coner. valve
64 Valve. exhaust
65 Insert. valve outlet
66 Guide. valves
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
15
Operation 13- Camshaft removal
and installation (with timing chain
and sprocket removed)
Removal
1 Remove engine assembly (see
Operation 1 ) .
2 Unscrew two nuts and lift off the rocker
cover and sealing gasket.
3 Remove four nuts and washers from the
rocker shaft support bracket and remove the
complete rocker assembly.
4
Withdraw the eight push rods keeping
them in their correct order.
&
Remove cylinder head and distributor.
6
Remove sump (see Operation 3) .
7 Remove two nuts, complete with
lockwashers, and remove the oil pump
assembly, complete with filter, from the
cylinder block.
8
Knock out the pin securing the thrust muff
to the distributor and oil pump driveshaft
which can then be removed upwards through
the distributor aperture.
11 Lift the tappets up through the cylinder
block and carefully withdraw the camshaft.
To replace
Replace in reverse order, fitting new gaskets
where applicable.
Note: When refitting the distributor driveshaft
ensure the large 'D' of the driving gear offset
dog is facing towards the block at No. 1
piston. i.e. slot in a '5 minutes past 7 o' clock'
position.
Take the opportunity of checking the camshaft
end-float, which should be within 0 ·0640 ·16mm (0·0025-0·0065in). Pull the camshaft
out against the retaining plate. and insert a
feeler gauge between the groove and the
retaining plate. Reduce the end-float by fitting
a new retaining plate. The camshaft retaining
plate, fitted as original equipment, is 4 ·621 mm
(0·182in) thick. A service plate 5·258mm
(0·207 in) thick is available to counteract any
end-float, but it may, of course, be necessary
to reduce this thickness to give correct
end-float, dependent on amount of wear.
Operation 14 - Camshaft bearing
removal and replacement (with
· camshaft removed)
Removal
1 Remove flywheel (see Operation 2) .
9
Remove the two bolts, and lockwashers,
securing the camshaft retaining plate.
10 Unscrew three nuts and washers and
remove the front engine mounting plate from
the cylinder block, including the gasket.
Figure 17
Camshaft bearing removal
and replacement tool
2 Unscrew four set screws and remove the
rear engine plate from the cylinder block.
3 Drill a hole in the camshaft core plug and
prise from the cylinder block.
1 Horseshoe
2 Large ·o· washer
3 Small ·o· washer
4 Mandrel
5 Pilot
The engine
16
4 Press out the rear, centre and front
camshaft bearings using general tool
No. 18G 124A and tool No. 7482 (see
Figure 17) as follows:
(a) Insert general tool and position pilot,
mandrel and horseshoe as shown in Figure
18.
(b) Applying firm pressure rotate the general
tool handle until the camshaft rear bearing is
removed completely from its location.
(c) To remove centre and front camshaft
bearings position the general tool and
components as shown in Figure 19 and
Figure 20.
1 P1lot
2 Beanng
3 M andrel
4 Horseshoe
Figure 18
Removing camshaft rear bearing
1 Horseshoe
2 M andrel
3 Beanng
4 P1l01
Figure 19
Removing camshaft centre bearing
1 Horseshoe
2 M andrel
3 Bearing
4 Pilot
Figure 20
Removing camshaft front bearing
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
17
I
To replace
1 To replace camshaft bearings position the
general tool and components as shown in
Note: Ensure that the oil holes in t he
bearing shells correspond to those in the
cylinder block.
Figurea 21, 22 and 23.
1 Pilot
2 Mandrel
3 Bearing
4 Small ·o· washer
5. Horseshoe
Figure 21
Replacing camshaft rear bearing
1 Pilot
2 Bearing
3 Mandrel
4 Small ·o· washer
5 Horseshoe
Figure 22
Replacing camshaft centre bearing
1 Horseshoe
2 Large ·o· washer
3 Bearing
4 Mandrel
5 Pilot
Figure 23
Replacing camshaft front bearing
The engine
18
Operation 15 - Cylinder liner
replacement
Follow the dismantling procedure outlined in
operations 1 to 14 and then continue as
follows:
1 Extract the four liners from the cylinder
block using a tool similar to that shown in
Figure 24.
M
Figure 24
Removing cylinder liners
2 Remove all signs of sealing compound
from both the liners and their seats in the
cylinder block.
3 M easure the liner bores for taper. ovality
and maximum wear.
Note: Cylinder liners are manufactured in
different grade sizes and are graded as high,
low or mean. Pistons are similarly graded and
it is important that a piston and cylinder liner
should be of the same grade. The grade of the
piston is stamped on top of the piston with
the appropriate grade letter, i.e. H - High,
L- Low, M - M ean. The grade of the cylinder
liner is marked on the outside wall with the
appropriate letter (see Figure 26) .
Pistons and cylinder liners are available from
the Spares Department of your Dealer in
matched pairs.
It should be noted that if pistons or cylinder
liners, available separately, are fitted. the
appropriate part number with a suffix H. L or
M should be quoted when ordering.
Operation 16 - Engine rebuild
The following information covers the
rebuilding of an engine that has been
completely dismantled, e.g. to replace liners.etc.
Figure 25
Piston and liner markings
1 Smear ICI 'Silcoset 152' sealing compound,
thinly, around the seating face of the liner
and its location in the cylinder block, making a
thin but complete 360" seal (see Figure 26).
Cylinder
Liner
· Silcoset · Sealant
Figure 26
Sealing cylinder liners
Robin 8&0 Workshop Manuel Supplement
The engine
2
Using a tool similar to that shown in
Figure 27, insert the liners into the block and
ensure that they stand proud 0 ·050-0 ·152 mm
(0·002-0·006 in) from the cylinder block face.
Check that there is 0 ·381 mm (0·015in)
clearance between liners.
19
10 Replace crankshaft to cylinder block, fit
main bearing caps in correct order, rear, centre
and front, securing with six nuts and plain
washers. Always fit new bearing cap nuts and
tighten to a torque of 3·316kgm (241bft) .
11 Fit a new oil seal into the rear cover,
position a new gasket and secure the rear
cover to the cylinder block ensuring the
dowels are firmly seated in their locations.
12 Fit front and rear bridge pieces with cork
packing, ensuring the end faces are flush with
the cylinder block, and secure with the four
screws.
13
Replace the rear engine plate, fixing with
four set screws and lockwashers.
14 Fit flywheel assembly to crankshaft and
secure with three bolts and tabwashers,
tightening to a torque of 3·87-4·14kgm
(28-301bft) . Check flywheel run out (see
Operation 2) .
15
Replace front engine plate and new
gasket to the cylinder block and secure with
three nuts and lockwashers.
Figure 27
Fitting cylinder liners
.16
3 Assemble new pistons to the connecting
rods. securing in position with the gudgeon
pins and circlips. To facilitate this operation
heat the pistons in hot water.
4
'Before fitting the piston rings position in
the appropriate liners for gapping. which
should be 0 ·17-0·30mm (0·007-0·012in) .
& Insert the piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the cylinder liners with the
scraper and compression rings in their correct
grooves and the ring gaps in their corn~ct
locations as described in Operation 11 .
Compress the rings for installation using a
compression tool. similar to that shown in
Figure 1&.
6
Fit new big end bearings in the
connecting rods and caps. Ensure the correct
bearing sizes are used, see engine data.
Fit the crankshaft outer thrust washers
with the oil slots facing forward, followed by
the steel thrust washer with its countersunk
aperture facing rearwards.
17
Fit the Woodruff key sprocket spacer and
crankshaft sprocket.
18 Using the crankshaft pulley or flywheel,
turn the crankshaft until the Wood ·uff key is
pointing to '11 o'clock'.
19 Turn the camshaft so that the groove in
the end of the camshaft is in alignment w ith
the Woodruff key on the crankshaft.
20 Replace the camshaft sprocket along with
the timing chain and secure w ith two bolts
and the locking plate.
21 Using a straight edge, check the
camshaft sprocket is in alignment w ith the
crankshaft sprocket. The valve timing mark on
the camshaft sprocket should now be pointing
to the Woodruff key on the crankshaft.
7
Check crankshaft main bearing journals,
see engine data.
8 Fit new main bearings to crankshaft and
bearing caps.
9
Fit new thrust washers to the crankshaft
ensuring the thrust face of the first washer
makes good contact with the ground face
of the crankshaft.
22 Check timing chain tensioner for wear,
renew if necessary, and locate on the lug in
the timing chain cover.
23 Fit the timing chain cover and new
gasket to the front engine plate, using
centralising tool No. RT 7481 , and secure with
seven bolts, two nuts and lockwashers (see
Figure 10).
The engine
20
24 Replace crankshaft pulley and secure
with bolt, plain washer and lockwasher.
21 Locate a new gasket and then fit the oil
pump assembly, complete with filter, securing
to the cylinder block with two nuts and
lockwashers. Refit oil pump and distributor
drive shaft.
in the following order:
No'. 1 valve with No. 8 valve fully open
No. 2 valve with No. 7 valve fully open
No. 3 valve with No. 6 valve fully open
No. 4 valve with No. 5 valve fully open
No. 5 valve with No. 4 valve fully open
No. 6 valve with No. 3 valve fully open
No. 7 valve with No. 2 valve fully open
No. 8 valve with No. 1 valve fully open
21
Fit a new gasket and replace the sump,
tightening the fifteen set screws, spacing
washers and lockwashers evenly.
27 Clean the cylinder head and cylinder
block faces and fit a new gasket. Smear grease
around the metal edges of the gasket bore
eyelets.
If adjustment is required, insert a screwdriver
blade in the slot in the adjustment screw and
slacken the locknut. Tum the adjustment screw
clockwise to decrease and anti-clockwise to
increase the gap.
Check the gap and tighten the locknut.
When adjustment is made the valve must be in
the fully closed position (Figure 2~ ).
28 Carefully position the cylinder head
squarely on the cylinder block and secure with
the twelve nuts, plain washers and
lockwashers. Replace the three nuts on the
spark plug side of the cylinder head. Check
that all cylinder head nuts indicated in
Figure13 are tightened, in the order shown,
to a torque of 3·46kgm (251bft) . The three
remaining nuts, on the spark plug side, should
be tightened to a torque of 2·07 kg m
(151bft) .
29 Replace the push rods ensuring they are
replaced in their correct order.
30
Locate the rocker shaft assembly on the
four studs and secure firmly with the four nuts
and washers to a torque of 2·35-3 ·04kgm
(17 -221bft) . Check tappet clearance (see
Operation 17) .
Figure 28 Valve clearance - tappet adjustment
31 Fit a new gasket and replace the rocker
cover securing in position with the two nuts
and washers.
32
1 Feeler gauge
2 Adjusting screw
3 Locknut
Replace all ancillaries.
33
Install the engine and gearbox assembly
(see Operation 1 ) .
Operation 1 7 - Valve clearance
-tappet adjustment
Tappet clearances are 0 ·152 mm (0·006 in )
cold, 0·254 mm (0·01 Oin) hot.
To adjuat
1 Remove rocker cover, secured by two nuts.
2
Remove spark plugs.
3 Turn engine in normal running direction in
order to open and close the valves and check
Figure 29
Tappet adjustment tool
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The engine
21
4 Refit spark plugs, connecting HT leads in
correct sequence.
& Refit rocker cover, renewing gasket if
necessary, and secure with nuts and washers;
tighten to a torque of 0·14 to 0·3kgm
(1 to 21bft) .
Alternatively, the valve clearances and tappets
can be adjusted, using general tool
No. 6500A (see Figure 29}.
Stud removal
Damaged studs can be removed using
extractor tool, part number 450A, in
conjunction with the tappet adjustment
wrench, general tool part number 6500A. as
shown in Figure 30.
Figure 30
Stud removal tool
Engine specification
CyllnderhMCI
Material
Joint washer thickness
Aluminium alloy
1·02mm (0·040in)
Cylinder block
Material
Aluminium alloy with cast iron liners
Crankahaft
Material
Main bearing journals
Crankpin journals
End-float
Forged high tensile steel
50·787-50·800mm (1·995-2·00in)
.33·32-33·33mm (1 ·3120-1·3125in}
0·0764mm (0·003in) min.
0·279mm (0·011 in) max.
Crankshaft regrinding size
0·254mm (0·010in}
1st undersize
Main bearing journals
50·533-50·546mm (1 ·988-1·989in}
Crankpin journals
33·07-33·08mm (1 ·3020-1·3025in}
2nd undersize
0·508mm (0·020in}
Main bearing journals
50·279-50·292mm (1 ·978-1 ·979in)
Crankpin journals
32·81 -32·82mm (1 ·2920-1 ·2925in}
3rd undersize
1·016 mm (0·040 in}
Main bearing journals
49 ·771-49·784mm (1·959-1·960in)
Crankpin journals
32·31 -32·32mm (1 ·2720-1·2725in}
Note: Connecting rod, big end bearing shells are available to suit crankshafts reground to the
above sizes.
Crankshaft thrust washer seta
Oversize sets available
0·0635 mm (0·0025 in)
0·1270mm (0·0050in)
0·1905mm (0·0075in)
0·254mm (0·010in)
Platona
Material
Size
All lands
At skirt
Low expansion aluminium alloy
62·53 mm (2·462 in)
62·17-62·26mm (2·448-2·451 in}
62·47 -62·50 mm (2·459-2·638 in}
The engine
22
Piston rings
Gap
Width (compression)
Groove clearance
Width (scraper)
Groove clearance
0·17-0·30mm (0·007-0·012in)
1·245-1·250mm (0·049-0·050in)
0·038-0·089 mm (0·0015-0·0035 in)
3·150-3·175mm (0·124-0·125in)
0·038-0·089 mm (0·0015-0·0035 in)
Oversize rings available
Compression ring, top
Compression ring, bottom
Scraper ring
0·254mm (0·010in)
0·254mm (0·010in)
0·254mm (0·010in)
Gudgeon pin
Diameter
14·283-14·288mm (0·5623-0·5625in)
Small end bush
; Bore
14·292-14·298mm (0·562-0·563in)
Camshaft
Bearing diameter
Bearing clearances
End-float
Chain pitch
Number of pitches
38·66-38·67 mm (1·521-1·522 in)
0·0254-0·0889 mm (0·001 0-0·0035 in)
0·064-0·16 mm (0·0025-0·0065 in)
9·525mm (0·375in)
50
Valves
Seat angle
Seat width
Inlet
Exhaust
Valve lift
Valve guide lengths (inlet and exhaust)
Valve guide clearance
1·397-1·524mm (0·055-0·060in)
1·397-1·524mm (0·055-0·060in)
25·42 mm (1 ·00 i11)
41·40-41·66mm (1·630-1·640in)
0·0381-0·0889 mm (0·0015-0·0035 in)
Valve springs
Free length
Fitted length and load
Length and load valve open
39·62 mm (1·56 in)
34·11 mm (1·343in) at 17·01 kg (37·501b)
28·60mm (1·125in) at 39·60kg (87·301b)
Flywheel
Material
Diameter
Chromium cast iron
246·126mm (9·69in)
Starter ring
Number of teeth
Diameter over teeth
100
257·81 mm (10·15in)
Crankshaft identification
Colour code
45"-45" 30'
-0·254mm (-0·010in) red
-0·508mm (-0·020in) blue
-1·016mm (-0·040in) green
The gearbox
Section G
Description
The gearbox has four forward speeds and
reverse with synchromesh on all forward gears,
the gear lever being directly located in the
selector forks through the gearbox top cover.
Routine maintenance
14 From underneath the vehicle disconnect
starter motor lead, unscrew two i UNF bolts
and nuts, complete with plain washers and
lockwashers, and remove starter motor.
15 Unscrew clutch cable adjuster, and
withdraw cable from operating fork and
trunnion which should then be removed from
fork and retained.
16
Disconnect speedometer cable at gearbox
rear cover.
The gearbox should be checked every 3,000
miles (5,000km) and topped up, if necessary,
to keep the oil capacity at a constant 0·64 litres
(1·125 pints). It is important that this capacity
is kept constant, for any appreciable drop in the
level will result in poor lubrication and possible
transmission damage.
17
To ensure the internal components are kept
clean and free from impurities the gearbox oil
should be changed every 12,000 miles
(20,000km).
19
Gearbox removal and installation
To remove
1 Disconnect battery leads.
2
Remove air cleaner.
3
Disconnect throttle cable at carburettor.
4 Release throttle return spring, slacken
carburettor L.H. fixing nut and move return
spring location bracket towards engine to clear
engine bulkhead.
5 Drain the radiator and disconnect radiator
top hose.
6
8 Unscrew retaining nuts and disco1111ect
choke and heater control cables from centre
console.
9
Remove four 156 UN F bolts, nuts and
lockwashers and disconnect driveshaft from
gearbox coupling flange.
18
Support the engine under the sump with
a suitable jack.
Remove four 156 UNF set screws and self
locking nuts securing gearbox support to chassis
mounting bracket.
20
By means of the jack carefully lower
engine and gearbox assembly until the gearbox
rear support is clear of the chassis mounting.
Unscrew two 156 UNC bolts and six
UNF nuts, complete with lockwashers, and
carefully withdraw gearbox assembly from
engine.
21
5
1 6
To install
1 Raise gearbox carefully, locate the fixing
studs in engine rear mounting plate and secure
engine and gearbox assemblies together, with
six 156 UNF nuts, two 156 UNC bolts and
lockwashers tightening to a torque of 1 ·662·07kg m (12-151b ft).
Disconnect heater hose from water valve.
7 Press in retaining lugs, and remove choke
and heater knobs from the centre console.
Remove gear lever knob.
1 0 Remove two No. 8 self tapping screws,
securing rear of centre console to driveshaft
tunnel, then lift centre console, complete with
gaiter, over gear lever.
11 Release retaining clip, ·remove cap and lift
gear lever from gearbox top cover.
12
Unscrew six No. 8 self tapping screws and
remove engine rear access panel.
2 Using the jack under the sump, carefully
raise engine and gearbox assembly, line up ·
gearbox support with chassis mounting bracket
and secure with four 156 UNF set screws and
lockwashers to a torque of 2·07-2-49kg m
(15-181b ft).
3 Reconnect driveshaft to gearbox coupling
flange securing with four 156 UN F bolts, nuts
and lockwashers tightening to a torque of
3·46-4·15kg m (25-301b ft).
4 Reconnect speedometer cable at gearbox
rear cover.
5 Secure starter motor to gearbox and engine
rear mounting plate with two~ UNF bolts,
nuts, lockwashers and plain washers.
6
13 Unless the vehicle is on a ramp, jack the
vehicle up and fit suitable stands all round
under the chassis.
1
Reconnect starter motor lead.
7 Locate .trunnion in clutch operating arm,
insert clutch cable and fit adjuster.
The gearbox
8 If applicable, remove stands and carefully
jack down the vehicle.
9 Refit engine rear access panel to engine
bulkhead and secure with six self tapping
screws.
10 Locate gear lever in selector forks through
gearbox top cover and retain in position with
cap and clip.
11 Lower centre console over gear lever and
secure to driveshaft tunnel with two No. 8
self tapping screws.
12
Replace gear lever knob.
13 Reconnect heater and choke control cables
to centre console, fixing in position with chrome
retaining nut. Replace choke and heater knobs.
14
Reconnect heater hose to water valve.
15
Reconnect radiator top hose.
16 Move throttle return spring location
bracket towards engine bulkhead, retighten L.H.
carburettor fixing nut and hook return spring
onto bracket.
17
Replace air cleaner.
18
Refill the radiator.
19
Reconnect battery leads.
20
Readjust clutch.
Dismantling the gearbox
1
3
Section G
Drain gearbox oil.
2 Remove clutch fork and lever assembly
(see Section H).
8 Lift out selector forks and tilt gearbox to
remove interlocking balls from cross drilling in
bell housing end of selector shaft bores.
9 Withdraw layshaft into bell housing,
allowing lay gear assembly to drop into base of
gearbox.
10 Unscrew six -l UNC set screws, complete
with lockwashers, and withdraw rear cover and
mainshaft assembly, taking care not to displace
front or rear synchro sleeves. Remove gearbox
mounting and earth strap.
11 Tap out primary gear shaft into bell housing
noting location of needle roller pilot bearing.
12 Lift out laygear assembly and the two thrust
washers.
13 Withdraw reverse gear shaft through rear of
gearbox and lift out reverse gear.
14 Secure rear cover including mainshaft
assembly in a vice, release tab washer, unscrew
~ UNF nut and remove tab washer and coupling
flange from mainshaft.
15 Remove rear cover from mainshaft
assembly.
Mainshaft assembly
To dismantle
1 Remove 1st speed gear, bush and bush
key, complete with baulk ring from mainshaft.
2
Remove 1st/2nd gear selector sleeve.
Note: It is advisable to carry out this operation
with the sleeve wrapped in a suitable piece of
cloth to avoid losing any of the three sets of·
balls, block springs and plungers from the
synchro body.
3 After removing sleeve recover balls and
blocks, etc. from cloth.
3 Unscrew eight set screws, complete with
lockwashers and remove top cover gasket,
selector springs and balls.
4
4 Remove seven nuts and lockwashers and
withdraw front cover. Remove gasket.
5 Remove circlip from spigot end of
mainshaft.
5 Using a suitable drift, tap out the mills pins
from 3rd/4th selector fork and lever and then
withdraw selector shaft through bell housing.
Remove selector lever.
6 Using a press tool press 3rd/4th synchro
body from mainshaft.
Repeat operation for 3rd/4th selector sleeve.
7 Withdraw 1st speed gear bush key, press
1st/2nd synchrobody from mainshaft and
remove 2nd speed baulk ring.
6 Repeat operation for 1st/2nd selector fork,
and lever and withdraw selector shaft taking
note of the interlock pin in the end of the shaft.
8
7 Tap out mills pin from reverse selector
lever, and withdraw selector shaft through bell
housing.
9 Examine all mainshaft components for wear
and renew if necessary for subsequent
reassembly.
Remove 2nd/3rd speed gear from mainshaft.
The gearbox
13
5
Section G
Repeat operation for two remaining balls.
14 Slide 3rd/4th synchro sleeve along synchro
body until it clicks into position.
Note: Ensure the sleeve is not pushed too far,
otherwise the synchro balls and thrust blocks
will be disturbed .
15 Reposition mainshaft in vice or assembly
pot to facilitate 1st/2nd synchro body
assembly.
16
Fit springs and plungers to synchro body.
17 Slide 1st/2nd synchro sleeve over synchro
body leaving sufficient room to enable fitment
of thrust blocks and balls. Ensure the teeth of
the synchro sleeve are facing forward.
18 Fit the three thrust blocks, leaving synchro
ball seatings completely visible.
19 Seat synchro body ball in thrust block,
press ball down onto plunger and slide thrust
block between sleeve and synchro body.
20
Repeat operation for two remaining balls.
21
Position baulk ring on 1st speed gear.
22 Fit 1st speed gear bush into its location in
gear body.
23 Apply 'Molygrease 799' to gear bush and
then fit into 1st gear.
24 Position 1st gear, including bush and baulk
ring, onto mainshaft splined end.
Figure 3 Replacing rear cover oil seal.
Rear cover assembly
To dismantle
1 Remove circlip securing rear bearing in rear
cover.
2 Using a suitable press tool press out rear
bearing and speedo driving gear.
3 Prise out rear cover oil seal taking care not
to damage its seating.
4 Press in new oil seal using Tool No. RTI489
and drive handle Part No. 575 (see Figure 3).
5 Check rear bearing and speedo driving gear
for wear, renewing if necessary.
25 Rotate 1st gear bush, until it fully locates
in the bush key seated in 1st/2nd synchro body.
6
Note : Handle mainshaft gear cluster with care
to prevent synchro sleeves, etc. from being
disturbed .
Front cover oil seal
Primary gear assembly
To dismantle
1 Using circlip pliers Genera l Tool No. 7066
remove Circlip securing front bearing to primary
gear.
2 Remove spacer and front bearing from
primary gear.
3 Withdraw needle roller bearing from inside
primary gear body. This bearing may have been
removed with mainshaft assembly.
4 Inspect front bearing and needle roller
bearing for wear, renewing if necessary.
5
Replace components in reverse order.
Replace components in reverse order.
1 Check front cover oil seal for wear and
replace if necessary. Care should be taken when
prising out the seal to prevent damage to its
seating in the cover.
2 Replace new seal with Tool No. RTI488
and drive handle Tool No. 575 (see Figure 4) .
Laygear assembly and layshaft
1 Examine laygear assembly gear teeth and
renew complete assembly if obvious signs of
wear are apparent.
2 The laygear needle roller bearings should
also be checked. Remove worn bearings with
a suitable drift, driving each bearing out from
inside laygear. Care should be taken when
fitting new bearings not to damage the bearing
cage.
The gearbox
6
Section G
assembly until it mates w ith its bore in rear end
of box.
Note : Tang end on layshaft must be at front.
7 Position tang of reverse shaft to engage with
horizontal slot in rear cover, and force rear
cover fully home.
8 Locate rear suppon mounting, and eanhing
strap to rear cover and then secure rear cover
w ith six 1 UNC set screws and lockwashers.
9 Replace coupling flange on mainshaft
spline, fit washer and tab washer, and secure
with i UNF nut, t ightening to a torque of
6·92kg m (501b ft). Bend over tab washer to
lock coupling flange nut.
Figure 4 Replacing front cover oil seal.
3 If signs of scoring are apparent on the
layshaft, due to worn needle roller bearings, it
will have to be replaced.
Reverse roller gear assembly and
shaft
1 Check reverse gear teeth and renew
assembly if necessary.
2 Drive out worn bushes with a suitable drift
and fit new ones ensuring the end faces of the
bushes are flush with the gear faces.
3 Check reverse gear shaft for scoring and
replace if necessary.
To reassemble the gearbox
10 Replace reverse, 1st/2nd and 3rd/ 4th
selector forks.
11 Replace the two interlocking balls in the
cross dri lling bell housing, locating in position
w ith grease.
12 Line up reverse selector shaft in selector
fork and drive home mills retaining pi ns.
13 Ensuring interlock pin is in position,
replace 1st/ 2nd selector shaft into selector fork
and lever. Secure in position with mills pins.
14 Replace 3rd/4th selector shaft into mating
fork and lever, again retai ning in position with
mills pins.
15 Rotate tang end of layshaft to horizontal
position and replace front cover and gasket,
securing to gearbox with seven 1 UNF nuts and
lockwashers.
1 Refit reverse idler gear and shaft into gearbox
case, with shaft selector groove to the rear.
2 Position lay gear assembly with its thrust
washer in base of gearbox.
3 Refit primary gear assembly into bell
housing location.
Note: Drive carefully into position until
bearing retaining ring is flush with case.
4 Feed in mainshaft assembly, taking care not
to dislodge synchro thrust blocks and balls. ·
5 Replace rear cover with its gasket to within
6·35mm (0·25in) of the gearbox face to allow
rotary movement and facilitate positioning of
layshaft.
6 Turn gearbox on its top face and feed
layshaft through thrust washer into laygear
Figure 5 Refitting front cover.
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The gearbox
Section G
Routine maintenance
The recommended service interval for checking
and topping up the gearbox oil level on the
Robin 850 is every 6,000 miles (1 O,OOOkm).
Gearbox removal and installation
To remove
Follow the same procedure as for removing a
gearbox fitted to a Robin with a 750cc engine,
but note the following additional operation:
When removing the Robin 850 gearbox,
remove two lockwashers and nuts securing
the manifold adaptor to the two fixing studs
on the inlet manifold and remove adaptor
complete with carburettor. This will allow the
engine/gearbox assembly to be lowered
sufficient to clear the engine bulkhead and so
enable the gearbox rear support to clear the
chassis mounting.
Note: On the Robin 850 the gearbox support
bracket is secured to the chassis mounting
bracket by three set screws and self-locking
nuts.
Mainshaft assembly
Primary gear assembly
1
To dismantle
1 Prise the primary gear front seal from the
gear shaft.
2 Using circlip pliers and general tool
No. 7066, remove circlip securing the front
bearing to the primary gear.
3 Remove the spacer and front bearing
from the primary gear.
4
Withdraw the needle roller bearing from
inside the primary gear body. ·
""~
Care should be taken when replacing the front
oil seal that it is not damaged when passing
the seal over the primary gear shaft splines.
The seal is correctly positioned when it
abuts the shoulder on which the circlip
securing the front bearing to the primary gear
is located. It must not abut the circlip.
Note: The 'lip' of the front seal must face
forward.
Rear cover assembly
To dismantle
1 Remove circlip securing the rear bearing in
the rear cover.
2 Using tool No. RT 7490, press out the rear
bearing and speedo driving gear.
3 Prise out the rear cover oil seal taking care
not to damage its seating.
To reassemble
1 Press new oil seal into the rear cover using
tool No. RT 7489 and drive handle, part
No. 550.
-·,2 Check rear bearing and speedo driving
gear-for wear, renewing if necessary.
3 Replace the bearing, circlip, speedo drive
gear and finally fit the coupling flange oil seal.
When removing 3rd/4th synchro body and
1st/2nd synchro body from the mainshaft
use press tool No. RT 8778.
~
Note: This bearing may have been removed
with the mainshaft assembly.
5 Inspect front bearing and needle roller
bearing for wear, renewing if necessary.
To reassemble
Replace components in reverse order.
1
Front cover oil seal
See Primary Gear Assembly. Existing Robin
Workshop Manual information incorrect.
Front cover oil seal fitted on primary gear
shaft, not inside front cover.
Section H
The clutch
Routine maintenance 1
Clutch assembly 1
Operating fork, lever and thrust pad 2
Pedal assembly 2
Clutch cable 4
Clutch adjustment 4
Specification 5
The clutch
Section H
Description
1
To remove (see Figure 1)
1
The clutch assembly comprises a spring pressure
plate assembly and a single dry 158·75mm
(6·25in) diameter clutch plate. As an alternative
a diaphragm clutch assembly, which is
interchangeable with the spring pressure plate
assembly will sometimes be fitted.
The clutch pedal lever operates a cable linked
to the clutch operating arm and a trunnion which
acts as an abutment for the cable adjuster.
Routine maintenance
Check and adjust clutch every 3,000 miles
(5,000km) .
Remove gearbox, see Section G.
2
Unscrew six set screws, complete with
lockwashers, and remove clutch assembly from
f lywheel.
3 Check that the linings are secure and free
from oil. The disc should also be checked for
excessive wear and signs of overheating. If the
linings are worn down to the rivet heads. or if
any of the above conditions are apparent, the
disc should be renewed.
Check the condition of the pressure plate and
the thrust pad surfaces. Should any sign of
scarring, overheating or distortion be present.
replace the assembly.
The clutch assembly
The clutch is located on the flywheel by two
dowels and retained by six set screws and
lockwashers. Before dismantling, mark all the
major components so that they can be
reassembled in the same relative positions, thus
preserving balance and adjustment.
Figure 1
Adjusting the release levers (spring
pressure plate clutch only)
In service the original adjustment made by the
manufacturer should never need attention, and
adjustment is only necessary if the clutch has
been dismantled. A series of base plates are
available from the clutch manufacturer to
Clutch
1 Driven plate
5 Lockwasher
9 Lever and tube
, " "''-
The clutch
2
Section H
facilitate adjustment. The procedure is as
follows:
1·588mm (0·060in) or shows signs of scoring
or distortion.
1 Using the manufacturer's gauge plate,
mount the clutch on the existing, or a spare,
flywheel. Alternatively, clamp it down to a flat
surface with a gauge plate occupying the
position normally taken by the drive plate. The
ground lands of the gauge plate should each
be located under a release lever.
To replace
1 Refit thrust pad to operating fork and secure
firmly in position with a new lock spring.
2 Adjust the levers by turning the eye bolt and
nuts until the levers are just in contact with a
short straight edge resting on the boss of the
gauge plate.
3 Operate the clutch several times in order to
settle the mechanisrtl. This operation can be
carried out in a drilling machine or light press
having a suitable adaptor arranged to bear upon
the lever tips.
4 Check and readjust, if necessary. Lever tip
height from flywheel face is 40·64mm (1·60in)
gauge plate No. CG 3239. The dimension is
45·24mm (1·78in) if taken with release lever
plate in position.
To replace
1 Using Tool No. RT7485 as centraliser, or
primary gear from a gearbox, position clutch
disc and pressure plate assembly on the flywheel,
securing evenly with six 156 UNF set screws and
lockwashers to a torque of 1·66-2·07kg m
(12-151b ft).
Clutch operating fork, lever and
thrust pad
The operating fork is pinned in position on the
shaft of the clutch lever and tube assembly
which is pivotted through the top of the gearbox
housing. To ensure that the thrust pad moves in
the correct plane, it is pivotted in the operating
fork and held firm by a lock spring.
To remove (see Figure 1)
1 Remove gearbox, see Section G.
2 Using a screwdriver prise off locking
washer, complete with plain washer, securing
clutch lever shaft to gearbox.
3 Tap out the two clutch fork retaining pins
into the bell housing with a 3·175mm (0·125in)
diameter drift.
4 Withdraw clutch lever and shaft assembly
from gearbox and remove clutch fork.
5 Release locking spring and remove thrust
pad from operating fork.
6 Inspect thrust pad for wear and renew if the
bearing face has worn below a depth of
2 Insert clutch lever shaft into gearbox
housing and fit operating fork.
3 Secure clutch lever shaft to L.H. of gearbox
housing with plain washer and new locking
washer.
4 Align the retaining pin holes of the operating
fork with those in the clutch lever shaft and
then secure operating fork in position with two
new retaining pins, tapping firmly home with
a 3·175mm (0·125in) dia. drift.
5
Replace gearbox.
The pedal assembly
To remove
1 Remove split pin, withdraw clevis pin and
washer and disconnect clutch cable clevis
from clutch pedal.
2 Unhook accelerator cable lug from pedal,
release plastic grommet from pedal and
withdraw accelerator cable.
3 Prise out rubber grommet, located on the
top R.H. of the engine compartment, to gain
access to the split pin, securing brake master
cylinder clevis to brake pedal. Remove split pin
and washer.
4 From inside footwall withdraw clevis pin and
disconnect master cylinder clevis from brake
pedal.
5
Disconnect brake light switch leads.
f5
Remove two 156 UNF set screws and two
UNF nuts, complete with lockwashers and
plain washers, securing pedal assembly and
master cylinder to body.
5
1 6
7 Carefully withdraw the pedal assembly
forwards, in the footwall, to clear the two weld
bolts of the pedal mounting bracket, from the
body and master cylinder.
8 Manoeuvre pedal assembly to clear steering
column and remove from footwall.
To dismantle pedal assembly (see Figure 2)
1 Release brake pedal return spring from pedal
and mounting bracket assembly.
2 Remove two split pins, drive out brake and
clutch pivot shaft through L.H. side plate of
mounting bracket, and withdraw brake and
The clutch
Figure 2
3
Section H
Pedal assembly
Bracket. pedal mounting
2 Screw. bracket to body
3 Lockwasher
4 Coachwasher
5 Nut
6 Bush. pedal
7 Cover. pedal pad
8 Clevis pin. brake pedal
9 Pedal. brake
10 Washer. clevis pin
11 Split pin. clevis pin
12 Spring
13 Nut. stop light switch
14 Swi tch. stop light
15 Split pin. pivot
16 Pivot. pedals
17 Washer. clevis pin
18 Split pin. clevis pin
19 Clevis pin. clutch pedal
20 Pedal. clutch
21 Abutment bracket, clutch cable
22 Rivet. bracket to body
23 Clutch cable
24 Trunnion. clutch cable adjuster
25 Adjuster. clutch cable
26 Pedal. accelerator
27 Bush. retaining. accelerator pedal
28 Bush. accelerator pedal
29 Screw. pedal stop
30 N9t. stop screw
clutch pedals.
3 Rotate accelerator pedal shaft nylon pivot
bushes to line up with square removal apertures
in mounting.
4 Prise out pivot bushes and remove
accelerator pedal.
5 Two metal bushes are pressed into both
clutch and brake pedals and can be removed
w ith a suitable drift, if necessary.
6 Inspect pedal pads for w ear and replace if
necessary.
7 Unscrew two 1 UNF locknuts and remove
brake stop light switch from pedal mounting
bracket.
31 Cable. accelerator
32 Grommet. accelerator cable
33 Adjustment screw
34 Bracket. adjustment
35 Washer
36 Nut
37 Trunnion. cable to carburettor
38 Washer
39 Split pin
40 Spring. throttle return
4 1 Bracket. return spring
42 Cable. accelerator. early vehicles
43 Trunnion. cable to carburettor. early
vehicles
44 Bracket. cable abutment. early vehicles
8 An accelerator pedal lockstep is located
behind the pedal in the mounting bracket and
can be adjusted by slackening the 1 UNF
locknut and rotating the set screw accordingly.
To reassemble
1 Refit stop light switch w ith a locknut either
side of the mounting bracket.
2 Locate accelerator pedal pivot shaft in the
square apertures of the mounting bracket, fit
nylon pivot bushes, and rotate to lock position.
3 Position brake and clutch pedals in mounting
bracket and insert pivot shaft, securing in
position with two new 3·175mm (0· 125in) dia.
split pins.
The clutch
Section H
4
4 Hook brake pedal return spring over pedal
lever and in mounting bracket location.
6 Clean all traces of sealing compound from
abutment bracket mounting under footwall.
To replace pedal assembly
1 Manoeuvre pedal assembly to clear steering
column and position on body mounting.
Ensure L.H . weld bolt locates in brake master
cylinder bracket.
7 Smear a coating of ' ICI Silcoset 152' sealing
compound on the seating face of the new clutch
cable abutment bracket.
2 Secure pedal assembly to body and master
cylinder with two -h UNF set screws. two
-h UNF nuts, lockwashers and plain washers.
3 From inside footwall insert clevis pin and
connect master cylinder clevis to brake pedal.
4
Reconnect brake light switch leads.
5 From the engine compartment, through
access aperture, fit washer and new split pin
to secure master cylinder clevis to brake pedal
lever. Replace rubber grommet.
6 Reconnect accelerator cable lug to pedal
and press in plastic grommet.
7 Locate clutch cable clevis to pedal, fit clevis
pin and washer and secure with a new split pin.
Clutch cable
Removal and replacement
1 Pull back the clutch cable, unscrew cable
adjuster and withdraw cable from cable adjuster
trunnion located in operating lever.
8 Push clevis end of new clutch cable as.sembly
through footwell, locate abutment bracket and
secure to body using method (a) or (b) as
previously described.
9 From inside vehicle footwell connect clutch
cable clevis to pedal lever with clevis pin, plain
washer and new split pin.
10 Insert threaded end of cable through
adjuster trunnion at clutch operating lever and
fit adjuster nut.
Clutch adjustment
1 Pull back the clutch cable to release adjuster
from trunnion.
2 Rotate adjuster along threaded end of cable
and relocate on trunnion (see Figure 3) .
3 Using a straight edge check whether the
clutch pedal pad is level with the pad of the
brake pedal. If not readjust the cable until this
is achieved.
2 From inside vehicle footwall remove split
pin and washer, withdraw clevis pin and
disconnect clutch cable clevis from clutch pedal
lever.
3 Using a 5·56mm (-/2in) dia. drill, drill the
heads off the two rivets securing clutch cable
abutment bracket to underside of the footwell.
4 Tap out the rivets and withdraw cable,
complete with abutment bracket from the
vehicle.
Note : The abutment bracket is press fitted onto
the nylon bush of the clutch cable and should
not be removed.
5 When fitting a new clutch cable assembly,
which includes the abutment bracket, two
methods of securing the bracket to the footwall
can be adopted: (a) rivetting the abutment
bracket to the footwall, as in production or
(b) drilling out the fixing holes in the bracket
and securing it with two No. 10 set screws,
nuts and lockwashers. If the fixing holes in the
footwall body have been enlarged excessively
it is advisable to use method (b) .
Figure 3
Clutch adjustment
1 Adjuster nut
2 Trunnion
3 Operating arm
The clutch
5
Section H
Clutch specification
Clutch type
or
Operation
Spring pressure plate assembly with
158·75mm {6·25in) dia. single dry plate
Diaphragm assembly with 158· 75mm (6·25in)
dia. single dry plate
Cable
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The clutch
Section H
Routine maintenance
The recommended service interval for
checking and adjusting the clutch on the
Robin 850 is 6,000 miles (10,000km).
Clutch fault diagnosis
A clutch lining, in service, will develop a
'polished' surface. This should not be confused
with a 'glazed' surface, which may be due to a
film deposit, a condition that alters the
frictional value of the linings. When a
'polished' surface is in perfect condition it is
a medium brown colour. If for any reason oil
should gain access to the clutch and come
into contact with the facings, small quantities
will burn off due to heat generated by the slip
which occurs under normal starting
conditions. This has the effect of darkening the
facings. However, as long as the 'polish' on
those facings remain such that the grain of
material can be clearly distinguished. it has
very little effect on clutch performance.
Increased quantities of oil or grease. however.
can give rise to harmful conditions. One of two
conditions may arise, or even combinations
of both.
.
(a) The oil may burn off and leave a carbon
deposit having a high 'glaze', causing clutch
slip.
In general, this condition hides the grain of
the lining material.
(b) The oil may only burn partially. This leaves
a resinous deposit producing a fierce clutch. It
may even cause a 'spinning' clutch due to the
facings adhering to the flywheel or the
pr~ssure plate surfaces.
A clutch that has been misused by the driver
riding the clutch, or using the clutch pedal as a
footrest, is often easily diagnosed by the clutch
lever bearing plate having a tendency Jo be
blue in colour.
1
Section J
The driveshaft
Routine maintenance 1
To remove driveshaft 1
Checking driveshaft for wear 1
To replace driveshaft 2
The driveshaft
Section J
Description
The drive shaft comprises two sections,
incorporating a sliding spline and universal
joints to allow fore and aft movement of the
rear axle. Each universal joint consists of a centre
spider, four needle bearings and two yokes.
Routine maintenance
Three lubrication points are provided, one each
on the universal joints, and one on the gearbox
end of the shaft to enable greasing of the sliding
spline. Grease should be applied to these points
every 3,000 miles (5,000km).
To remove drive shaft
1 If a ramp is not available jack up the vehicle
and fit stands under the chassis.
2 Unscrew four bolts and nuts, complete with
lockwashers from the coupling flanges at
gearbox and axle ends of the drive shaft and
lift drive shaft clear.
Checking drive shaft for wear
The degree of wear on the driveshaft thrust faces
can be determined by the amount of lift in the
joints. This can be measured by hand using a
piece of wood suitably pivotted. Any
circumferential movement of the shaft relative
to the coupling flange yokes indicates wear in
the needle roller bearings, or drive shaft spline,
or ovality in the yokes. A Unit Package (Journal
Kit) is available for replacing worn needle
bearings and journals but if excessive wear is
apparent on the yoke bearing seatings or drive
shaft splines a new complete unit will have to
be fitted.
Figure 1
Drive shaft
1
To dismantle
1 Using circlip pliers, General Tool No. 7066,
remove the four circlips from both joints. It may
be necessary to scrape away the paint from
around the clips. If remova l is difficult prise the
clips out with a screw driver.
2 Tap the radius of the yoke with a hide or
nylon mallet to release the yoke bearings.
Should difficulty be encountered in this
operation the bearings can be gently prised out
from inside the yoke.
3 Repeat operation on all bearings, first
removing the yoke, followed by the journals.
4 Unscrew dust cap to separate the two
sections of the drive shaft.
To reassemble
1 Reassemble the two sections of the drive
shaft, checking that the arrows stamped on
them are aligned. This is to ensure both coupling
flanges are square to each other thus giving
uniform motion of the drive shaft. Retighten
dust cap.
2 Fit new needle rollers in the bearing races
using graphited grease.
3
Seat dust seal and collar on new journal.
4 Locate journal in the yoke, and carefully
tap the bearings into position. Repeat operation
for other journal.
5 Coat the journal shoulders with shellac and
replace circlips. If the joints appear to bind, tap
slightly with a hide or nylon mallet to relieve
any pressure.
1 Unit package
2 Circlip
3 Lubricator
4 Bolt
5 Lockwasher
6 Nut
The driveshaft
Section J
To replace drive shaft
1 Secure drive shaft coupling flanges to
gearbox and axle with four 156 UNF bolts and
nuts, complete with lockwashers, tightening to
a torque of 3·46-4·15kg m (25-301b ft).
2
Section K
The rear axle
Description 1
Routine maintenance 1
To remove axle unit 1
To replace axle unit 2
To fit new halfshaft bearings- with axle in
vehicle 2
Dismantling rear axle 3
Reassembly of rear axle 4
To fit pinion assembly in axle case 6
Determining correct backlash 6
Final assembly of axle 7
The rear axle
Section K
Description
Routine maintenance
The rear axle is of the spiral bevel gear.
semi-floating type, having a ratio of 3·545 : 1.
Top up the rear axle oil level every 3.000 miles
(5.000km) if necessary. The rear axle breather
hole, located in the LH axle tube, should be
checked and cleaned out. if necessary, every
3,000 miles (5,000km) .
A two piece axle case assembly houses a taper
roller bearing differential unit with the crown
wheel bolted to the casting.
The pinion sits in the centre of the housing
case and is supported by taper roller bearings.
Note : If the breather hole is continually
blocked, pressure will build up within the axle
unit and cause oil leakage from the pinion and
halfshaft seals.
Bearing preload in the differential assembly is
controlled by shims between the bearings and
differential casting .
To remove axle unit
The depth of mesh between the pinion and
crown wheel is controlled by a spacing washer
and additional shims as required.
1 If a ramp is not available. jack up the rear of
the vehicle. place suitable stands under the
chassis and remove road wheels.
2
The crown wheel and pinion are a selected pair,
and identifying numbers are etched on both.
This cond ition applies to spare parts and
production alike. Under no circumstances may
an unmatched crown wheel and pinion be
fitted.
Figure 1
1? C:tll l"f
Remove drive shaft (see Section J ) .
3 Disconnect handbrake cables from operating
levers on the wheel back plates by removing
the split pin and washer and withdrawing the
clevis pin. Then disconnect cables from rear axle
locations.
Rear axle
1 Axle tube R.H.
2 Axle tube L.H.
3 Stud. axle caso
4 Lockwasher
5 Nut
6 Bracket. brake pipe
7 Filler plug
8 Axle shaft c/w collar
9 Bearing. axle end
10 Oil seal
11 Hub assembly
1 3 Key. hub securing
14 Washer. hub secunng
15 Nu t. hub securing
16 Taper bearing
17 Shim, differential beanng
18 Crown wh eel and pinion
19 Bol t, crown·wheel
20 Differen tial case
21 Wheel. d1fferenual
22 Thrust washer
23 Pinion. different•al
')A
Ts... ........ . .. ............. ..
1
25 Differential pin
26 Locking pin
27 Bearing. p1n1on head
28 Bearing. pinion tall
29 Collapsible spacer
30 Spacer. pinion head
31 Oil seal pinion
32 Coupling flange
33 Washer
34 Nut
35 Set screw
'"'I!!
I .,. .,.I _ . , ..............
The rear axle
Section K
2
4 Disconnect flexible brake hose from bundy
tube at rear axle, and plug to prevent loss of
fluid and ingress of dirt.
5 Supporting the axle, remove both damper
fixing bolts from the axle mountings.
6 Unscrew four nuts and locknuts and remove
the two 'U' bolts securing the leaf springs to
axle. The axle unit can now be removed from
the vehicle.
To replace axle unit
1 Carefully raise the axle and seat on the
location pegs of the leaf springs.
2 Secure axle to leaf springs with ·u· bolts
and i UNF nuts and lockwashers.
3
Fit damper units to axle mounting with
Fig ure 2
Slackening the halfshaft nut
i UNF nuts and bolts.
4 Reconnect flexible brake hose to bundy tube
at axle mounting.
6 Secure hub puller to the hub using four
wheel nuts which must be firmly tightened (see
Fig ure 4) .
5 Reconnect handbrake cable clevises to
brake levers with clevis pin and washer and new
split pin.
7 Tighten hub puller to li'elease the halfshaft
taper.
6
Replace drive shaft.
7 Refit road wheels and if applicable, remove
stands and jack down the vehicle.
8
Bleed the brakes (see Section L) .
To fit new halfshaft bearingsw ith axle in vehicle
8 Remove hub puller and sleeve and
withdraw hub.
9 Unscrew four set screws, complete with
lockwashers, and remove brake assembly from
R.H. axle end.
10 Fit adaptor R.T. 3072-2 to the slide
hammer tool No. 3072, screw onto the halfshaft
1 If a ramp is not available, jack up the rear of
the vehicle, place suitable stands under the
chassis and remove road wheels.
2 Disconnect hydraulic brake pipes at brake
backplate.
3 Slacken brake adjusters, remove the one
countersunk screw and lever off the R.H . brake
drum.
4 Using a lever wedged between two of the
studs or a plate tool similar to that shown in
Figure 2 unscrew the halfshaft nut, complete
with washer.
5 Fit hub puller sleeve onto the end of the
halfshaft (see Fig ure 3 ) to prevent the hub
puller, Part No. R.T. 8090 (to be fitted in next
operation), damaging the halfshaft thread. If the
hub puller sleeve is not available, unscrew the
halfshaft nut so that the top face of the nut is
flush with the threaded end of the halfshaft.
Figure 3
1 Sleeve
Hub puller sleeve R.T. 8090 A/ 2
The rear axle
Section K
3
13
Fit new oil seal into the axle end housing .
14 Locate the new bearing on halfshaft and
pack with the recommended grease (see
lubrication chart) .
15 Insert the R.H. halfshaft into the axle tube to
engage in the differential unit. Then, using the
slide hammer tool No. 3072 and adaptor
R.T. 3072-2, refit the R.H. halfshaft.
16 Secure the brake back plate assembly to
axle end with four , \ UNF set screws and
lockwashers.
17 Clean the halfshaft taper of all grease and
foreign matter.
18 If the wheel hub studs have been damaged
they should be pressed out and new ones fitted.
Figure 4
Hub puller R.T. 8090 A/ 1
19 Position the hub key in its location on the
halfshaft and fit the wheel hub.
and by sliding the hammer away from the
halfshaft, withdraw the halfshaft from the axle
tube as shown in Figure 5.
20 Secure the wheel hub to halfshaft with i
UN F nut and washer, tightening to a torque of
12·44- 13·82kgm (90- 1OOib ft) .
11 Remove hub key and press off halfshaft
bearing and remove oil seal from housing.
Note : The oil seal collar behind the bearing
should not be disturbed. If it is accidentally
removed, it must be reset with a 73·91 mm
(2·91 in) clearance from the outside face of the
collar to the end of the halfshaft taper.
If on removing the hub, the hub key came with
it, it should be driven out with a suitable drift.
21 Check that the brake drum face of the hub
·is clean, fit drum and secure with ~ UN F
counter sunk screw, and readjust brakes.
12 Repeat the above operations for the L.H .
side.
22 Reconnect the hydraulic brake pipes at
brake back plate and bleed brakes. ( If the
vehicle is on stands, leave this operation until
last).
23
Repeat operations for L.H. side.
24 Fit rear road wheels. Remove stands and
jack down the vehicle. if applicable.
25
oil.
Top up rear axle with the recommended
Disma ntling rear axle
1 Following the same procedure as previously
described, remove the axle unit from the
vehicle.
2 Place the axle unit in a vice with the spring
mountings uppermost and pinion flange facing
the operative.
3 Remove the R.H. brake drum and hub (see
halfshaft bearing replacement) .
Figure 5 Removing halfshaft using adaptor
R.T. 3072 -2 and slide hammer 3072
1 Adaptor
2 Slide hammer
4 Remove the R.H. brake backing plate and
brake assembly, and R.H. axle halfshaft. (See
halfshaft bearing replacement) .
5 Remove the R.H. axle housing and withdraw
the differential unit.
The rear axle
Section K
Figure 6 Removal of differential bearing
using collars R.T. 8764 A/ 1 and adaptor
R.T. 8764 A/ 2 in the hand press tool No. 47
1 Collars
2 Adaptor
6 Feed the differential unit into the hand press
tool No. 47 and fit into the cone of the tool.
Ensure the bearing fits securely into the collars
R.T. 8764/ 1 and the rollers on the bearing fit
onto the lip of the collars and fit the adaptor
R.T. 8764/ 2 to the differential unit. See
Figure 6. Supporting the differential unit from
below, turn the hand press to remove the
bearing. Repeat this operation for the other
bearing and take note of the value of the shims
behind each bearing, if only bearing is being
renewed.
4
Figure 7 Removal of pinion bearing using
collars R.T. 8765/ 1 in hand press tool No. 47
1 Collars
when the rear bearing is removed.
Reassembly of rear axle
Instructions for determining overall
differential end float - using main
tool No. R.T . 8732
1
Thoroughly clean all removed components.
2 Place the two dummy bearings R. T. 8730
on the ends of the differential carrier without
any shims and assemble in the axle casing .
Secure the axle tube to the axle case.
7 Remove the pinion flange nyloc nut and
washer and withdraw the flange. Tap the
pinion assembly into the centre of the axle
housing and remove.
8 Using hand press tool No. 47 and pinion
bearing remover tool No. R.T. 8765 follow the
same procedure as for the differential unit and
remove the pinion bearing (see Figure 7 ) .
Note the value of the spacing washer thickness
next to the pinion head and any added shims.
9 Following previous procedure remove the
L.H. brake assembly and L.H. axle halfshaft.
10 Using the three legged puller tool No. R.T.
3072- 1 on slide hammer tool No. 3072 remove
the axle housing outer bearing cones. See
Figure 8.
11 Should the pinion bearing outer tracks
need renewing, remove with a su itable drift
after heating the appropriate area of the
casting.
Figure 8 Removal of outer bearing cones
from axle housing
12
1 Puller tool R.T. 3072-1
2 Slide hammer 3072
The pinion flange oil seal will come away
The rear axle
3 Remove the drain plug and check that the
differential unit rotates freely.
4 Screw the two circular plates of the tool
R.T. 8732 onto the push rods. Insert these
through t he axle tube, ensuring that the swivel
pad on each end is felt to locate in each side of
the differential carrier bore. Screw the plates up
to the axle tube flange and secure with the
bolts supplied. Unscrew both rods slightly
before finally clamping the plate. The two round
knurled gaug ing nuts should be screwed onto
the push rod which is facing the crown wheel
or pinion side of the crown wheel, which for
convenience of explanation should be on the
L.H. side of the operator as he faces the axle
and referred to as the L.H . side throughout these
instructions.
5 Unscrew the R.H. side push rod
approximately i inc.h. Screw in the L.H. push
rod with a load of 2-41bs ft maximum, thus
pushing the differential assembly over into the
R.H. housing. Screw up the gauging nut lightly
to the face of the circular plate. Carefully and
secu rely with the other nut lock together, and
screw the push rod back approximately i inch,
ensuring the gauge nuts move with the screw as
they come away from the plate. Screw in the
R.H. push rod 2-41bs ft maximum thus pushing
the differential unit into the L.H. axle housing.
Screw in the L.H . push rod until a stop is felt.
Measu re the gap between the circular plate and
the gauge nut with feeler gauges and record the
figure (see Figure 9) which represents the
overall end float.
6 Separate the casings and remove the
differential assembly complete with dummy
Figure 9 Determining overall differential end
float using tool No. R.T. 8732
1 Gauging nut
2 Locking nut
5
Section K
bearings, but do not remove the dummy
bearings from the differential carrier.
Instructions for setting the pini on
using main tool R.T. 8732
1 Ensure the pinion bearing cups are seating
correctly in the pinion housing.
2 l ocate the thick pinion spacer washer on the
Dummy Pinion R.T. 8730 followed by the taper
bearing cone.
3 l ocate the Dummy Pinion in the pinion
housing, place the outer bearing cone in
position, followed by the flange and dummy
pinion nut and tighten to give the running
pre-load, thus settling the rollers.
4 Place the mandrel R.T. 8730 in the
differential side bearing bore. With a dial gauge
torque w rench check the torque required to turn
the dummy pinion nut (see Figure 10). This
should read ·081 - ·1 15kgm (7-1 Olbs ins)
torque without oil seal, ·115-·15kgm
{1 0-131bs ins) with oil seal. Ensure that the
mandrel is seating correctly and measure with
feeler gauges the gap between the outside
diameter of the mandrel and the dummy pinion
face {see Figure 11 ) . Any amount in excess of
·030 will be the spacers required to bring the
pinion to its correct mounting distance. Also
take into account when determining the shims
required, any figure stamped on the pinion
itself, which represents any variation in
manufacture f rom its nominal mounting distance,
i.e. if a figure of + ·003 is stamped on the pinion
shank, this means it has been manufactured
high and requires reducing in height by the same
Figure 10 Setting the pinion using tool
R.T. 8730/1 and 2
1 Pinion setting t ool
The rear axle
6
Section K
To fit pinion assembly in axle case
1 Add the collapsible spacer to the pinion
assembly and place the new oil seal in the
pinion housing. Place the pinion assembly in the
pinion housing and replace the pinion flange
and nyloc nut.
2 Using a torque wrench, progressively
collapse the spacer starting at 6·91 kgm
(501b ft) . When end float is eliminated at
approximately 11 ·06kgm (801b ft) preload
begins.
3 Turn the pinion to ensure the pinion rollers
are correctly seated .
4 Using a torque meter check the torque
required to turn the pinion nut. This should be
set at ·115kgm- ·15kgm (1 0-131bs ins) .
Figure 11 Determining pinion mounting
distance using tool R.T. 8730/ 1 and 2
Determining correct backlash
amount. Therefore, if the gap measured is ·044.
the spacers required will be ·044-·030-·003
which will equal spacers to the value of ·011
thicker than that used for measurement.
5 Remove the dummy pinion assembly, place
the selected spacer on the pinion and
assemble the bearing cone, using the hand
press tool No. 47, adaptor R.T. 8765/ 2 and
pinion bearing replacer collars R.T. 8765/1 (see
Figure 12).
1 Replace the differential assembly complete
with the dummy bearings into the differential
housing and secure the two halves of the case
together.
2 If removed, refit the push rods of the tool
No. RT 8732 as for setting differential end
float. Slacken the R.H . side then screw in the
L.H . push rod as before, using a torque wrench
set to ·28kgm-·55kgm (2-41bs ft) maximum.
This will give maximum backlash . Screw up the
gauging nut lightly to the face of the disc and
lock in position as before.
3 Unscrew the L.H . side approximately k inch
and screw in the R.H. side until the correct
backlash is obtained. This should be checked at
the pinion flange as follows :
Setting correct backlash, pinion to
crown wheel using a dial gauge
1 With the pinion flange horizontal, scribe a
centre line on the top edge of the flange and a
line i" (19mm) to either side of the centre line
(see Figure 13). This represents the overall
diameter of the pinion.
2 Set up the dial gauge indicator on a magnetic
base as in Figure 13.
Figure 12 Replacing the pinion bearing cone
using tools R.T. 3765/1 and 2 in hand press
tool No. 47
1 Collars
2 Adaptor
3 Spacmg washer
3 Using a screwdriver through the drain plug
aperture, render the crown wheel immobile by
wedging it into the crown wheel teeth.
4 Rock the pinion flange and read off the
backlash readings. This should measure ·008" .
The rear axle
Section K
7
Taper bearing width say ·715
Actual shims required = ·030-·005 = ·025. Plus
·002" which represents the manufacturers
preload allowance. Therefore total shims
required= ·027" .
l.H. Side
Dummy bearing width say ·712
Taper bearing width say ·710
Actual shims required = ·020 + ·002= ·022. Plus
·002 which represents the manufacturers
pre- load allowance. Therefore total shims
required= ·024".
Final assembly of axle
Fig ure 13 Determining pinion to crown wheel
backlash using a dial gauge
5
Screw in the L.H . side until a stop is felt.
re-check the backlash and adjust both push
rods if any correction is necessary.
1 Tap both the differential bearing outer
tracks into the two halves of the case.
2 Replace the correct shims on the differential
unit. Using a hide mallet and tool No. R.T. 550-1
and universal handle 550 replace the differential
unit bearing (see Figu re 14).
6 Measure the gap between the gauge nut
and disc and record the figure. This figure
represents the amount of shims, taking into
account bearing width variation plus
manufacturers pre-load. that must be fitted to the
R.H. side differential carrier bearing. The remainder
of the shims from the overall float. taking into
account again any bearing width variation. will be
fitted to the L. H. or pinion side of the differential.
Example
Total end float recorded ·050
To give correct backlash shims required on R.H.
side = -030
Therefore shims on L.H . side will be ·050-·030
= ·020
These figures have been obtained using the
dummy bearings. Separate the axle cases.
remove the differential and proceed as follows :
Measure and compare each dummy bearing with
the overall width of the taper bearing assembly
to be fitted on each end.
Ensure the rollers are settled by rotating before
measurement. The plus readings from the
dummy bearing width are subtracted from the
selected shims.
Figu re 14 Replacing differential bearing using
tool No. R.T. 550- 1 and universal handle tool
No. 550
1 Replacer tool
2 Un1versal handle
3
Place the differential unit into the differential
case housing.
4
The minus readings are added to the selected
shims.
R.H. Side
Dummy bearing width say ·71 0
Replace the L.H . half shaft to assist in
supporting the crown wheel and differential
unit assembly.
5
Secure the two halves of the axle . case
together using Hylomar jointing compound and
The rear axle
8
Section K
secure with 8 lockwashers and nuts to a torque
of 2·07-2·49kgm (15-181bs ft).
6
Refit the R.H. half shaft complete with hub
bearing to engage in the differential unit.
7
Secure the R.H. back plate assembly to the
axle end w1th the four ,5s UN F set screws and
lockwashers.
8 Clean the half shaft taper of all grease and
foreign matter.
9
Position the hub key in its location on the
halfshaft and fit the wheel hub.
10 Secure the wheel hub to the halfshaft with
~ UNF nut and washer tightening to a torque
of 12·44-13·82 kgm (90-1001bsft).
11 Check that the brake drum face of the hub
is clean. Fit drum and secure with-! UNF
countersunk screw.
12 Repeat the operations for the L.H. hub
and brake.
13 Replace the axle drain plug tightening to a
torque of 2.07-2.76kgm (15-20lbs ft).
14 Replace the axle unit on the vehicle (see
previous axle unit replacement procedure).
15 Reconnect the hydraulic brake pipes at the
brake back plate and bleed the brakes. (If the
vehicle is on stands, leave this operation until
last).
16 Fit the rear road wheels. Remove stands
and jack down the vehicle if applicable.
17
Re-adjust the brakes.
18
Top up the axle with the recommended oil.
Rear axle specification
Type
Ratio
Number of teeth on crown wheel
Number of teeth on pinion
Torque to turn pinion-axle complete
Comprising: Differential bearing pre-load
Pinion bearing pre-load
Flange oil seal load
thus: max. pre-load
Crown wheel/pinion back lash
Spiral bevel gear, semi-floating
3·545: 1
39
11
·196-·265kgm (17-231b in)
·081- ·115kgm (7-1 Olb in)
·081-·115kgm (7-1 Olb in)
·035kgm (31b in)
·196-·265kgm (17-231b in)
0·203mm (0·008in)
Robin 810 Workshop Manual Supplement
Rear axle
Section K
With the introduction of the Robin 850 a rear
axle with a ratio of 3·23:1 has been
introduced. The number of teeth on the crown
wheel has been increased to 42 and the
number of teeth on the pinion increased to 13.
The axle is now fitted with an oil seal retaining
plate to reduce the possibility of oil reaching
the brakes. The plate is fitted between the
rear brake backplate and axle end, and is
secured in position by the four set screws and
lockwashers securing the backplate to the
axle end ( Figure 1).
New axle hub assemblies and brake drums
have also been introduced. The hub has been
modified by the addition of a brake drum
locating collar fixed to one of the wheel studs.
Figure 1
To accommodate this modification the brake
drum has had one of the wheel stud locating
holes enlarged. This will ensure that whenever
the drum is removed in service it can only be
refitted on the same studs, thereby reducing
the possibility of brake judder.
Routine maintenance
The axle breather hole should be cleaned out.
and the axle oil level topped -up every
6,000 miles (10,000km) .
Rear axle
1 Axle tube. RH
2 Axle tube. LH
3 Stud. axle case
4 Lockwasher axle case
5 Nut. axle case
6 Bracket. brake pipe
7 Filler plug
8 Split pin. breather hole
9 Axle shaft
10 Collar shaft
11 Bearing. axle end
12 Oil seal
13 Hub assembly
14 Stud
1 5 Key. hub securing
16 Washer. hub securing
17 Nut. hub securing
18 Taper bearing
19 Shim. differential bearing
20 Crown wheel and pinion
21 Differential case
22 Bolt. crown wheel
23 Wheel differential
24 Thrust washer
25 Pinion differential
26 Thrust washer
27 Differential pin
28 Locking pin
29 Bearing. pinion head
30 Bearing. pinion tail
1
31 Collapsible spacer
32 Spacer. pinion head
33 Coupling c/w shield
34 Shield
35 Oil seal. pinion
36 Washer. coupling
37 Nut. coupling
38 Plate. oil seal
39 Set screw. backplate
40 Lockwesher. backplate
41 Collar. stud locating
2
Rear a xle-cutaway
Rear ax le
Section L
The brakes
Routine maintenance and adjustment 1
Front brake adjustment 1
Rear brake adjustment 1
Handbrake adjustment 1
Bleeding the hydraulic system 2
Front brakes 2
Front wheel cylinders 3
Rear brakes 3
Rear wheel cylinders 4
Master cylinder 4
Brake pedal assembly 5
Handbrake 5
The brakes
1
Section L
Description
The braking system employs two leading shoes
on the front wheel, hydraulically operated. The
rear brakes. also hydraulic, use a leading and
trailing shoe. A mechanica l handbrake linkage is
provided to the rear brakes only.
The brake pedal, connected directly to the
master cylinder via short push rod, also
operates a stop light switch mounted on the
pedal bracket assembly.
Routine maintenance and adjustment
Check the level of the brake master cylinder
f luid weekly and top up if necessary. Every
3,000 miles (5,000km)check and adjust brakes
and hydraulic system, and grease hand brake
cable.
Note: This adjustment must be performed
accurately to obtain a minimum clearance
between the linings and the drum. with
consequent minimum pedal travel.
Rear brake adjustment
1 Jack up the vehicle until rear wheels are
clear of the ground.
2 Release handbrake and whilst rotating
wheel turn t he square headed adjuster spindle
(see Figure 2) until shoes bind on the drum.
3 Slacken back the adjuster until the wheel
can be rotated without binding. Repeat operation
for other w heel.
Front brake adjustment
A manual eccentric pin type adjuster is fitted
to both brake shoes (see Figure 1 ) .
1
Check that the brake drums are cold.
2 J ack up the vehicle until front wheel is
clear of the ground.
3 Turn t he adjuster of one shoe anti-clockwise
to bring the lining away f rom the drum. Turn
the other adjuster until the drum is locked, then
slacken back until the wheel is just sufficiently
free to rotate without binding.
4 Turn the other adjuster until the drum is
locked. then slacken back unti l the wheel is
again sufficiently free to rotate without binding.
Figure 2
Rear brake adjustment
1 Adjuster
Handbrake adjustment
Before adjusting the handbrake cab'le, always
adjust the rear brakes.
1 Lock up the rear brakes by means of the
adjuster, w ith the handbrake lever in the OFF
position.
2 Slacken off the locknuts shown in Figure 3.
Adjustment can then be effected by means of
the main adjuster screws. Adjust the two
screws equally. Retighten the locknuts securely.
Figure 1
Front brake adjustment
1 Grease nipple
2 Bleed screw
3 Adjuster
The cables are greased on assembly but the
inner cables should have grease applied at the
two grease nipples and, especially in adverse
weather conditions, at the handbrake pulley
and at the two exposed ends to the brake
back plates.
The brakes
2
Section L
3 The operation of the brake pedal is important.
The pedal should be pushed down hard through
the full stroke, followed by three short rapid
strokes and then the pedal shou ld be allowed
to return quickly to its stop with the foot right
off.
4 Repeat this operation until fluid expelled is
free from air bubbles. Tighten the bleed nipple
without excessive force, ensuring that this is
done during a downward stroke of the brake
pedal.
5 Remove the bleed tube and replace rubber
dust cover.
6
Figure 3
Handbrake adjustment
1 Adjusters
2 Locknuts
Repeat operation for L.H . rear wheel.
Note : During the process ensu re that the level
in the reservoir is maintained with fresh fluid
not that which has been bled from the system.
Scrupulous clean liness must be observed at all
times.
7
Check the action of the brakes on road test.
The hydraulic system
Front brakes
The hydraulic brake master cylinder is situated
in the engine compartment above the driver's
footwall. Before checking or replenishing the
system, wipe the sides of the reservoir and cap
with a clean, dry, cloth to prevent dirt entering
the system when the cap is unscrewed.
Fitting new brake s hoes (see Figure 4)
Always fit Reliant-replacement shoes, including
a new set of return springs.
Top up the reservoir as and when necessary
using Castro! Girling Crimson brake fluid. Do not
use other fluids, otherwise seals may be
damaged, causing possible brake failure. Ensure
the breather hole in the filler cap is unobstructea
before replacing the reservoir cap.
If at any time part of the hydraulic system has
been disconnected, or if the level in the master
cylinder reservoir has fallen very low, air will
have entered the system. This is usually indicated
by the necessity to 'pump' the brake pedal to
obtain efficient braking . The system must then
be bled.
Bleeding the hydraulic system
The apparatus required for bleeding consists of
a bleed screw spanner, a clean glass jar
containing some brake f luid, and a length of
rubber tubing of sufficiently small bore to fit
tightly over the bleed screw nipples.
1 Remove the front wheel bleed nipple
rubber dust cover, fit the tube over bleed nipple,
and unscrew it about three-quarters of a turn.
2 Immerse the free end of the tube in the
f luid in the glass jar.
Jack up the vehicle and remove front wheel
and drum.
1
Remove steady post pin and leaf spring.
2 Prise one shoe out of the groove in the
wheel cylinder piston using a large screwdriver.
3 Remov.e both shoes and return springs,
leaving the wheel cylinders and pivot pins in
position on the back plate.
Note : To prevent loss of brake fluid slip an
elastic bana over the wheel cylinder pistons
to hold them in place.
4 Clean down the back plate, check wheel
cylinders for leaks and freedom of motion.
5 Check adjusters for easy working slackening
back (anti-clockwise) to the full 'OFF' position.
Lubricate where necessary with Girling Brake
Grease.
6 Attach new springs to shoes, ensuring that
the springs are between the shoe webs and the
back plate, otherwise the shoes will not lie flat
on the back plate. Keep all grease off the brake
linings and do not handle more than is necessary.
7 Place shoes, with springs attached, against
back plate. Insert the piston end of one shoe into
the piston .
The brakes
Figure 4
Section L
3
Front brake
1 Back plate
2 Wheel cylinder
3 Gasket
4 Bol t
5 Lockwasher
6 Bleed screw
8 Insert the piston end of the other shoe in the
second wheel cylinder piston.
9 Locate a screwdriver under the web of the
shoes against the back plate and ease the shoes
into the grooves on the wheel cylinders.
10
13 Bol t. back plate
14 Bolt. back plate
1 5 Set screw . back plate
16 Lockwasher. back plate
7 Brake shoe
8 Service ki t. steady post
9 Pull off spring
1 0 Bundy. bridge pipe
11 Brake drum
12 Screw . brake drum
Replace steady post pin and leaf spring.
11 Refit brake drum, making sure it is clean
and free from grease.
12 Adjust brake, refit front wheel and jack
down.
Front wheel cylinders
A leaking wheel cylinder can cause excessive
pedal movement, and this will normally be
attributed t~ a worn rubber seal. If excessive
pedal resistance is experienced, when all other
components are functioning correctly, this
would indicate a seized wheel cylinder. The
wheel cylinders are not serviceable and if the
faults described above are apparent a new
cylinder will have to be fitted.
3
Remove the bleed screw.
4 Remove two screws and lockwashers from
the inboard side of the back plate, and withdraw
the wheel cylinder and sealing ring. Repeat
this operation for the other cylinder, if necessary.
5 Replace in reverse order, fitting a new rubber
sealing ring.
Rear brakes
Fitting new brake shoes (see Figure 5)
1 Jack up the rear of the vehicle and remove
wheel and drum.
2 Remove steady post pin, coi l spring, cupped
washer, and split pin securing shoe to handbrake
lever.
3 Lift one of the shoes out of the slots in the
adjuster link and wheel cylinder piston.
4 Remove both shoes, complete with springs.
To prevent loss of brake fluid, slip on elastic
band over the wheel cylinder piston.
T o remove (see Figure 4)
1 Remove the brake shoes, as previously
described .
5 Fit the new return springs to the shoes,
with the shorter spring at the adjuster side,
from shoe to shoe and between the shoe web
and backplate.
2 Disconnect hydraulic fluid pipe and bridge
pipe connecting the two wheel cylinders, and
plug to prevent loss of fluid and ingress of dirt.
6 Locate one shoe in the adjuster link and
wheel cylinder piston slots, then prise over the
opposite shoe into its relative position. Remove
The brakes
Figure 5
4
Section L
Rear brake
1 Backplate R.H.
2 Wheel cylinder
3 Oust cover
4 Retaining plate
5 Spring plate
6 Bleed screw
7 Service kit. steady post
8 Lever. handbrake
9 Split pin. lever
10 Adjuster
11 Nut. adjuster
12 Washer. adjuster
13 Spring adjuster
14 Spring. wheel cylinder
15 Brake shoe set
16 Brake drum
17 Set screw. drum
18 Set screw. backplate
19 Lockwasher. backplate
rubber band from wheel cylinder.
f luid and ingress of dirt. Remove bleed screw.
7 Replace steady post pin. coil spring,
cupped washer, and handbrake.lever split pin.
3 Remove dust cover, prise off retaining plate
and spring plate and withdraw wheel cylinder
from brake backplate.
Note: The first shoe has a lining position
towards the heel of the shoe, on the second
shoe towards the toe or operating end of both
L.H. and R.H. brake assemblies.
Several hard applications of the brake pedal
should be made to ensure that all parts are
working satisfactorily and the shoes are bedding
to the drums. The brakes should now be road
tested.
Rear wheel cylinders
Faulty rear wheel cylinders will show similar
signs to that of the front wheel. If the vehicle
has a tendency to steer to the left or right of.the
straight ahead position, a seized wheel cylinder
could be the cause. It is advisable to check the
hydraulic system before fitting a replacement.
To remove (see Figure 5)
1 Remove brake shoes as previously described.
2 Disconnect the fluid pipe from the rear of
the wheel cylinder and plug to prevent loss of
4
Replace in reverse order.
Master cylinder
A faulty brake master cylinder can be diagnosed
by excessive pedal movement or signs of leaking
hydraulic fluid around the rubber sealing boot
and push rod. A very stiff pedal action. with the
the rear brake lights permanently on, would
indicate a seized master cylinder. Blockage of
the air vent in the reservoir filler cap will result
in too much pressure being present in the fluid
thus preventing the return of the brake pedal.
A master cylinder service kit can be purchased
or a complete replacement unit. But it is
advisable to carry out a detailed check of the
hydraulic system. to ensure the fault does in fact
lie in the cylinder. before replacement is
undertaken.
To remove (see Figure 6)
1 Prise out rubber grommet, located on top of
driver's footwall in the engine compartment to
The brakes
Figure 6
Section L
5
Hydraulics
1 Master cylinder
2 Set screw
3 Lockwasher
4 Nut
5 3 w ay connector
6 Set screw. 3 way
7 Lockwasher. 3 way
8 Nut. 3 way
9 Bundy. 3 way
1 0 Rear flexible hose
11 Bundy. 3 way
12 Bundy, rear hose
13 Bundy. rear brake
14 Front flexible hose
15 Grommet. hose
16 Clip. bundy
17 Clip. bundy
18 Gasket. flexible hose
19 Lockw asher. fl exible hose
20 Locknut. flexible hose
21 Bundy. flexible hose
gain access to the split pin, securing brake master
cylinder clevis to brake pedal. Remove split pin
and washer.
remove the split pins, washer and clevis pin and
disconnect cable clevis from R.H. and LH .
rear wheel handbrake levers.
2 From inside footwall withdraw clevis pin
and disconnect master cylinder clevis from
brake pedal.
2
Release cable from axle location brackets.
3 Disconnect fluid pipe from cylinder and plug
to prevent loss of fluid and ingress of dirt.
3 Pull down handbrake pulley and detach
from clevis by removing split pin, washer and
clevis pin.
4 Unscrew -h UNF nut and set screvy,
complete with lockwashers and plain washers,
and remove master cylinder.
4 Slacken adjuster locking nuts, release cable
from handbrake mounting plate, and remove
cable from vehicle.
5
Replace in reverse order.
Brake pedal assembly
The brake pedal shares a mounting bracket
assembly with the clutch and accelerator pedals.
This assembly has to be removed from the
vehicle footwall before the pedals can be
dismantled. The procedure is described in
Section H - The Clutch.
Handbrake
To replace handbrake cable (see Figure 7)
1 With the handbrake in the ' OFF position,
5 locate new cable in handbrake mounting
plate locations, fit adjusters and secure with
the locknuts.
6 Fit pulley in the cable and secure to clevis
with clevis pin, washer and new split pin.
7 locate cable in axle brackets and then
reconnect to R.H. and LH. rear wheel brake
levers with clevis pin, washer and new split pin.
8
Readjust handbrake.
To remove handbrake lever (see Figure 7)
1 With the handbrake in the ' OFF position,
remove split pi n, washer and clevis pin and
The brakes
Figure 7
6
Section L
Handbrake
1 Handbrake lever
7 Compensator pulley
2 Mounting bracket
3 Set screw
8 Clevis ca ble
9 Set screw
4 Lockwasher
5 Coa chwasher
6 Handbrake cable
10 Nut
11 Clevis pin
12 Washer
13 Split pin
14 Clevis pin
15 Washer
16 Split pin
disconnect cable from handbrake lever.
2 From inside vehicle unscrew three -h UNF
set screws, lockwashers and coachwashers and
remove handbrake lever from body mounting.
3 Replace in reverse order and readjust
handbrake cable as necessary.
Brake specification
System
Brakes - front
rear
Master cylinder bore diameter
Hand brake
Hydraulically operated, internal expanding to
all wheels
177·80 x 38·10mm (7 x 1·50in)
177·80 x 31·75mm (7 x 1·25in)
17·78mm (0·70in)
Lever type operating rear brakes mechanically
by cable linkage
Section M
Wheels and tyres
Tyre pressures 1
Jacking positions 1
Wheel removal and inspection 1
Valves 1
Wheel and tyre balance 2
Spare wheel and retaining bracket 2
Wheels and Tyres
1
Section M
Description
The wheels are of the pressed steel disc type
and are fitted with polished aluminium centre
caps which spring over buttons on the wheel.
Cross ply tubeless tyres are fitted to all Robin
models.
Tyre pressures
Tyre pressures should be checked before a run
when the tyres are cold. During use the pressure
will increase and the additiona l pressure should
not be released since in determining the tyre
pressure this increase has been taken into
account. Under inflation can also result in
damage to the walls and the tread itself due to
excessive flexing.
Close attention to tyre inflation and the
mechanical condition of t he vehicle will not
always prevent uneven tyre wear. It is, therefore,
recommended that the front tyre is interchanged
with the rear tyres, bringing the spare wheel
into use.
1108
Figure 1
Front jacking position
Figure 2
Rear jacking position
Note : If the vehicle is fitted w ith cast alloy
wheels on the rear they cannot be interchanged
with the front pressed steel wheel.
On no account must radia l tyres be fitted.
Jacking positions
Before changing a wheel, or carrying out any
servicing operation, ensure the vehicle is on
level ground, with the handbrake applied and
the wheels suitably blocked.
The recommended jacking points under the
chassis main longitudinal frame members are
indicated in Figure 1 and Figure 2.
Note : Do not work under the vehicle with the
jack as the sole support, always fit chassis
stands.
Wheel remova l and inspection
Remove centre caps, slacken wheel nuts, jack
VP the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the
ground, unscrew the nuts and remove wheel.
Clean the wheel tim with a wire brush to remove
all trace of corrosion. Examine the rim and
welds securing the rim to the wheel centre.
Damage to the rim may be repaired provided
it is confined to the flange tip area. Inspect the
wheel centre for cracks or fractures.
The wheel nuts must be refitted with their
tapered face towards the wheel and tightened
to a torque of 6·91-7·60kg m (50-551b ft).
Valves
The valves used on the tubeless tyres are
secured and sealed to the wheel by a stepped
Maintain the tyres, including the spare, at the recommended pressures, as follows:
Saloon an d V an
Front
Rear
Normal
2·12kg/sq em (30 psi)
1 ·69kg/sq em (24 psi)
Full load
2·12kg/sq em (30 psi)
2·12 kg/sq em (30 psi)
Wheels and Tyres
2
Section M
flange on the rubber body of the valve and by
the air pressure inside the tyre.
A simple but effective tool can be made, for
fitting a new valve, by soldering a valve cap
into the end of a short length of steel tu be (see
Figure 3).
Spare wheel and retai ning bracket
The spare wheel of the Saloon is housed in a
recess at the rear of the vehicle (see Figure 4)
and the spare wheel for the van against the
L. H. side of the body. Both are held in position
by a retainer secured to a backing plate assembly
by a -fs UNF bolt and washer (see Figure 7
and Figure 8 - Sect ion 0 ).
The backing plate for the spare wheel retainer
can be removed, if necessary, by drilling the
heads off the retaining rivets with a 5·56mm
(0·219in) dia drill and then tapping out the
ri vet shafts. Refit the backing plate assembly to
the body with four 4 ·76 x 10·16mm
(0·188 x 0·40in) rivets.
Fig ure 3 Tyre valve fitting tool
To fit a new valve
1 Liberally coat the valve body and the
perimeter of the valve hole in the wheel with
soapy water.
2 Insert the valve into the wheel hole and
screw the tool onto the valve cap thread.
3 Pull the tool sharply so that the valve seats
correctly in the wheel.
4 Fit and inflate the tyre, and check the valve
for air tightness.
Wheel and tyre balance
Unbalance in wheel and tyre assemblies may
be responsible for various effects such as wheel
wobble, abnormal wear of tyres and suspension
parts, vibration in the steering or, in extreme
cases, the w hole vehicle. If any of these faults
are apparent , for which no other cause can be
found, wheel and tyre balance should be
checked statically and corrected according to
instructions supplied by the manufacturer of the
ba lancing equipment.
W hen w heels are to be re-balanced it is
essential that the weight of the vehicle be
removed from the tyres as soon as possible after
a run so that temporary flat spots do not form
on the tyres.
Figu re 4
saloon
Spare wheel location an d fixing
1 Retaining bracket
2 Bolt
3 Washer
Robin 860 Workshop Manual Supplement
Wheels and tyres
Wheel removal and inspection
The wheel nuts must be refitted with their
tapered face towards the wheel and tightened
to a torque of 4 ·15-4 ·84kg m (30-35 1bft).
Figure 1
Spare wheel location and fixing
1 Retaining strap
2 Hook
3 Bracket
Spare wheel and retaining
bracket
On later 850 models the spare wheel is held in
position by means of a rubber strap with
hooks, locating in brackets secured to the
body ( Figure1 ) .
Section M
1
Section N
Exhaust system
Exhaust system
Section N
Description
The exhaust system of the Saloon and Van
comprises three main units, the manifold,
exhaust downpipe, and silencer which
incorporates a short tailpipe.
The down pipe of the system is secured to the
manifold by two 156 UN F nuts, the silencer and
tail section being flexibly mounted by two
rubber/asbestos straps secured to the chassis.
To remove exhaust system (see Figure 1)
1 Remove two 156 UNF nuts and disconnect
downpipe from manifold.
2 Remove i UNF set screw, coach washer
and nut, release the two silencer support straps
from their chassis mountings and carefully
withdraw exhaust system from the rear of the
vehicle.
3 To disconnect silencer from down pipe
slacken 156 UN F clamp bolt and nut.
4 Replace in reverse order, fitting a new
downpipe gasket to the manifold.
Note: Periodic checks should be made to the
exhaust system for tightness at all securing
and mounting points. The system should be
tightened up again after the engine has been
running.
Figure 1
Exhaust system
Down pipe
2 Gasket. downpipe
3 Nut. downpipe
4 Silencer
5 Clamp, silencer
6 Bolt, silencer
7 Nut. silencer
8 Strap, silencer
9 Set screw, strap
10 Coachwasher, strap
11 Nut, strap
1
Section P
Fuel system
Routine maintenance 1
Fuel tank 1
Fuel tank sender unit 2
Fuel pump 2
Carburettor 3
Adjusting slow running 5
Difficult starting with the engine cold 6
Difficult starting with the engine hot 6
Excessive fuel consumption 6
Poor acceleration 6
Loss of power 7
Accelerator pedal assembly 7
Accelerator cable 7
Air cleaner 8
Fuel system
1
Section P
Description
Routine maintenance
Fuel is delivered to the carburettor by a
camshaft operated diaphragm pump from a
rectangular fuel tank mounted under the floor at
the rear of the vehicle. The fuel is filtered by a
gauze filter located on the pick-up pipe of the
sender unit in the tank. The float operated
sender unit actuates the fuel gauge on the
fascia.
Periodically check the tightness of the
carburettor securing nuts and at any time the
gasket is replaced ensure it is seated correctly
and securely.
A downdraught carburettor is used incorporating
a diaphragm accelerating pump and a
depression operated economy device.
Check for full traverse of choke lever. The
choke control knob must be 3·0mm (0·125in)
away from the centre console when the choke
lever is in the fully 'OFF position.
Fuel tank
Vehicles built after September 1973, will have
a carburettor that conforms with the Department
of Environment Vehicle Emmission Regulations.
Early vehicles have identical carburettors with
the exception of modifications made by the
manufacturer to conform with the Regulations.
If water, or other deposits detrimental to the
fuel system, are present in the tank. it should be
removed and thoroughly flushed out with clean
petrol.
To remove (see Figure 1)
The carburettor is a 30 IZ or 30 IZE model, the
latter being the emission controlled type.
2 If a ramp is not available, block the front
wheel, jack up the rear of the vehicle and fit
suitable stands under the chassis.
Air is filtered through the carburettor by a dry
paper element type air cleaner that also serves
the engine oil filler cap.
Figure 1
1
Disconnect battery.
3 Remove drain plug and drain fuel into a
clean container.
Fuel tank
1 Fuel tank
9 Nut
17 Pipe assembly. pump to carb
2 Insulation. tank
10 Filler tube
3 Fuel tank uni t
4 Sealing ring
5 Locking ring
6 Drain plug. tank
7 Washer. plug
11 Hose. fi ller tube
12 Clip. hose
13 Grommet. hose
14 Pipe assembly. tank to pump
15 Olive
15 Olive
16 Nut
18 Sleeve connector
19 Clip. fuel and bundy pipe
20 Clip. fuel pipe
21 Filler cap. painted
? ? l"ill<>r N>n
ln~kinn
Fuel system
2
Section P
4 Slacken jubilee clip securing rubber tank
hose to filler tube.
the necessary spare parts which are available
in a repair kit Part No. 11858.
5 Disconnect fuel supply pipe at sleeve
connector, located on R.H . chassis side member.
To remove and dismantle (see Figure 2)
1 Disconnect fuel pump inlet and outlet pipes
and suitably plug to prevent loss of fuel and
ingress of dirt.
6 Remove nut and washer securing fuel tank
to L.H . and R.H. support straps.
7 Bend retaining straps outwards to clear tank
mounting studs. Take care not to damage the
mounting stud threads.
8 Carefully lower tank, disconnect sender unit
lead, and remove fuel tank from rear of vehicle.
9
Replace in reverse order.
2 Unscrew two nuts, complete with
lockwashers and remove the pump by lifting
the operating lever to clear the camshaft
eccentric and the slotted aparture in the cylinder
block. Remove pump gasket.
3 Before dismantling clean the exterior of the
pump and mark the base of the upper body in
line with the small diaphragm tab and mark
the lower body, to ensure correct reassembly.
Fuel tank sender unit
If faulty readings are suspected on the fuel
indicator check the indicator and sender unit
as follows:
1
Remove fuel tank as previously described.
2 Twist sender unit locking ring to release
from tank location and w ithdraw sender unit
(see Figure 1).
4 Remove five screws and separate the upper
and lower bodies of the pump.
5 Hold the pump in an inverted position,
push in and then turn the diaphragm assembly
through 90° to release the pull rod from the key
in the rocker arm extension. Remove diaphragm
assembly and spring.
3 With sender unit lead still disconnected,
switch on vehicle ignition. The fuel indicator
needle should then be at the empty mark.
4 Earth sender unit lead. The fuel indicator
needle should then be at the full mark, and this
will confirm that the fuel indicator is functioning
correctly.
5 Reconnect sender unit lead and manually
operate the float lever. With the float lever at
its bottom stop the fuel indicator needle should
be at the empty mark. With the float lever at its
top stop the fuel indicator will read full. Any
deviation from these readings will confirm that
the sender unit is faulty and will need replacing.
1
Fuel pump
Testing the fuel pump
Providing there are no leaks or obstructions in
the fuel line, a quick check on the fuel pump
efficiency can be made as follows:
1 Disconnect carburettor feed pipe at the
fuel pump outlet.
2 Connect a slave pipe to the pump outlet
and place in a clean jar.
3 Crank the engine, when a well- defined
spurt of fuel should be apparent for each
revolution of the engine. If the pump does not
operate satisfactorily remove, dismantle and fit
Figure 2
Fuel pump
1 Fuel pump
2 Valve assembly
3 Gasket. valve
4 Diaphragm
5 Gasket. pump to block
6 Washer, pump to block
7 Nut. pump to block
P.1041
Fuel system
3
Section P
Note: The diaphragm and pull rod plate are
rivetted together and should not be dismantled.
6 Release circlip and withdraw rocker arm and
extension spindle from lower body.
7 Remove rocker arm and extension, complete
with washers and return spring.
8 Check components for wear and renew
where necessary for subsequent reassembly.
Note: The valve assemblies are peened into the
upper body of the pump and are not replaceable.
Therefore, if the valves are faulty, or if a
replacement part is required but is not in the
repair kit, a new fuel pump will have to be fitted.
To reassemble and replace
1 Locate rocker arm, complete with return
spring and extension in lower pump body.
2 Insert spindle, locate the two washers and
secure with circlip.
be removed and cleaned every 6,000 miles
(1 O,OOOkm). All jets should be cleaned in clean
petrol and blown out with an air line or tyre
pump. On no account use wire or anything
which will enlarge the jet orifices. Clean the
float chamber with clean petrol and blow out.
To remove carburettor (see Figure 3)
1 Remove air cleaner.
2 Disconnect fuel inlet pipe from carburettor
and plug to prevent ingress of dirt.
3
Disconnect choke control cable.
4 Release throttle lever retaining nut tab and
unscrew retaining nut, complete with tab
washer.
5 Unscrew two 156 UNF nuts, complete with
lockwashers, remove throttle return spring
bracket and throttle lever, with cable still
attached.
3 Position diaphragm spring on lower body
seating and pull rod key plate, if fitted.
6 Remove carburettor and gasket from inlet
manifold.
4 Insert the diaphragm pull rod into the rocker
arm extension key and turn through 90° to lock
in position.
To dismantle
1 Remove five screws and spring washers
retaining the float chamber cover and gasket
to the lower body.
Note: Ensure the smaller tab on the diaphragm
aligns with the mating mark on the lower body
flange.
5 Fit upper body ensuring the mark aligns
with the smaller diaphragm tab, replace with
five screws and turn them finger tight. Operate
the rocker arm a few times to centralise the
diaphragm and tighten the screws securely,
diagonally.
6 Clean the pump mounting face on the
cylinder block, removing any trace of gasket
which may be adhering to the face, and fit a
new gasket.
·
7 Locate the pump over the fixing studs insert
the rocker arm through aperture in the cylinder
block wall so that the arm lies on the camshaft
eccentric.
8 Secure the fuel pump with two
and lockwashers.
5
1 6
AF nuts
9 Remove the plugs and reconnect fuel pump
inlet and outlet pipes.
10
Run the engine and check for leaks.
Carburettor
Adjust carburettor, as necessary, every 3,000
miles (5,000km). The carburettor should also
2 Inside the float chamber cover is the needle
valve which controls entry of fuel to the
carburettor, and is a screw fit.
3 The hook shaped pump jet, which consists
of a hexagon base and an '0' ring seal, sits on
the lower body and is easily removed. Adjacent
to the pump jet is the air correction jet, which
has the emulsion tube attached, and is a screw
fit. The slow running tube, with gauze sheath,
can be lifted out.
·
Note: The casting which forms the main
discharge assembly can be seen in the throat
of the carburettor. This is located by means of
a grub screw, which is locked in position on
assembly. On no account try to remove or
loosen this screw.
4 To gain access to the main jet, lift out the
plastic float, with its pivot pin and unscrew the
hexagon plug, with plain washer, located at the
base of the float chamber. Through the plug
aperture, unscrew the main jet with a screwdriver
of suitable size and length.
5 Inspection of the pump diaphragm, spring
and passages can be achieved by laying the
carburettor on its side with the pump
uppermost. Remove the four fixing screws,
while holding the cover in position. Then
carefully swing away the cover on the operating
rod, taking care to release the spring tension
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Fuel system
5
Section P
before final removal. On reassembly, first
position the spring in the main casting followed
by the diaphragm which is fitted with spigotted
centre portion outwards (towards cover).
When refitting the pump cover make sure the
spring is located correctly in centre of diaphragm
before replacing fixing screws.
6 To check economy device, remove the
three retaining screws and lift off assembly,
including gasket. Behind the gasket is situated
the economy jet which can be removed with a
suitable screwdriver.
Access to the economy spring and diaphragm
can be gained by removing the two screws of
the assembly, that have been taken off the main
casting, holding the cover and carefully
releasing the spring tension before lifting off.
When replacing the diaphragm, spring and cover,
first locate the diaphragm on the body, place
the spring in the cover and bring the two parts
together with the spring located in the cup of
the diaphragm. To refit the assembly, locate the
gasket, then position the assembly in the main
body and replace the three fixing screws.
To reassemble
Before reassembling the upper and lower
bodies, make sure that all jets are replaced
correctly.
1 First lower the base of the plastic float into
the float chamber, and then locate the pivot pin
in the recess of the body flange.
2 Place float chamber gasket in position and
holding the strangler cam lever in closed
position, locate upper body to lower body and
secure with the five fixing screws. Tighten
evenly and firmly from centre outwards.
Figure 3
To replace carburettor
1 Fit a new gasket on the inlet manifold and
replace carburettor.
2 Locate throttle return spring bracket on
outer fixing stud and secure carburettor with
two 156 UNF nuts and lockwashers.
3 Fit throttle lever, with cable attached, secure
with retaining nut locking in position with tab
washer.
4 Reconnect choke cable. The choke control
knob must be 3·0mm (0·125in) away from the
centre console when the choke is in the fully
'OFF' position.
5
Reconnect carburettor fuel inlet pipe.
6
Replace air cleaner.
7
Adjust carburettor.
Adjusting slow running
30 IZ carburettor
When the engine has reached its normal
operating temperature set the throttle
adjustment screw {Figure 4) to a fast idling
speed. Screw out the volume control screw {1)
until the engine runs unevenly. Gradually screw
in the volume control screw until the engine
runs smoothly and the exhaust note is even.
Reset the throttle adjustment screw {2) to
reduce engine speed to idling requirements.
This may cause a resumption of uneven
running; if so, screw the volume control screw
in a clockwise direction until the idling is once
more smooth.
30 IZE carburettor
The major modification to the careburettor t<:>
Carburettor
1 Throttle
2 Throttle spindle
3 Screw. throttle
4 Washer. sealing
5 Distance washer
6 Floating lever
7 Abutment plate
8 Lever throttle
9 Washer. locking
10 Nut. spindle
11 Screw. slow running
12 Spring
13 Screw. volume control
14 Pump control rod
15 Circlip
16 Spring. control rod
17 Split pin
18 Pump cover
19 Spring. pump
20 Diaphragm
21 Screw. pump unit
22 Sealing ring
23 Pump injector
24 Float and arm
25 Float spindle
26 Slow-running tube No. 50
27 Filter gauze
28 Main jet
29 Washer. main jet
30 Plug. float chamber
31 Washer. plug
32 Air correction jet
33 Jet economy
34 Body, economy
35 Valve. economy
36 Spring. valve
37 Washer. valve
38 Diaphragm. economy
39 Spring,economy
40 Cover. economy
41 Screw. economy cover
42 Gasket. economy unit
43 Screw. economy unit
44 Fast idle interconnection rod
45 Split pin
46 Strangler bracket
47 Screw. strangler bracket
48 Clip
49 Strangler cam
50 Swivel interconnection
51 Washer. swivel
52 Circlip. swivel
53 Screw
54 Screw. cable swivel
55 Pivot. strangler cam
56 Spring. strangler cam
57 Strangler
58 Screw. strangler fixing
59 Spindle. strangler
60 Washer. spindle
61 Spring, strangler return
62 Needle valve
63 Washer
64 Gasket. float chamber cover
65 Screw. float chamber cover
Fuel system
6
Section P
enable it to conform to Emission Regulations is
the pre-set volume control screw (1)
( Figure 4 ).
size. Having cleaned the assembly, replace it
with the correct washer and ensure it is screwed
tightly in position.
It must be emphasized that this pre-set
adjustment, made at the factory, is essential for
efficient working of the emission control.
Should it be necessary to alter or even check
this setting it must be carried out with
specialised emission control equipment.
Examine the float for damage, and see that it
moves freely on the pivot pin. If petrol floods
into the manifold after switching off the engine,
it may be a result of excessive pressure from the
fuel pump.
Slow running adjustment can only be adjusted
by means of the throttle screw (2) ( Figur e 4 ).
An additional washer under the needle valve
may be effective in preventing flooding, and
could be tried before resorting to the fitting of
a new pump or replacing worn parts.
Generally the engine can be started by gently
opening the throttle to the fully or near-fully
open position, then rotating the engine by the
starter to clear the over rich condition.
Excessive fuel consumpti on
Having checked to ensure the carburettor has
the standard setting of jets and air bleeds fitted,
make certain that all holes and passages in the
instrument are clear. See that the strangler flap
in the air intake opens completely when the
choke control is pushed in.
Fig ure 4
Adjusting slow running
1 Throttle adjustm ent screw
2 Volume con trol screw
Difficult st artin g w ith the engine cold
Make sure there is petrol in the float chamber.
for sediment or gum can cause the needle valve
to stick in the closed position, thus preventing
the entry of fresh fuel when attempting to start.
This can explain difficult starting, as fuel in the
float chamber may have evaporated after the
vehicle has been standing for several hours.
If a sticking needle is suspected, remove the
upper body of the carburettor, and operate the
needle with a finger. Any tendency for the
valve to remain closed can usually be overcome
by rinsing it in methylated spirit. This will
dissolve gum deposit and wash off sediment.
Ensure that the strangler flap in the air intake,
closes completely when the dashboard control
is operated. A bent spindle could cause the
strangler to remain partially or fully open and
would explain inability to start. Check that
t hrottle screw is correctly adjusted.
Difficult starting w ith the engine hot
First check t hat the needle valve is of the correct
Dismantle the .economy device to make sure
the diaphragm material is intact and in good
condition, also that the gasket is in position
and sound. If a replacement diaphragm is needed
it is always best to fit a new spring. Carry out
similar clheck of pump diaphragm and when
assembling see that the diaphragm is fitted with
the plai n spigot towards the outside.
Clean the needle valve, ensure it is fitted with
the correct washer and screwed tightly in
position. Make sure the float chamber gasket is
in good condition. Ensure the float moves freely
on the pivot pin.
A new needle valve, with a new washer,
should be fitted if the needle shows signs of
apprecia ble wear. (Approximately 15,000 miles.
24,000km.) Should it be found after the above
attention, the obvious richness persists, the
explanation may be excessive fuel pump pressure
in which case a new pump must be fitted or worn
parts replaced.
A loose f loat chamber plug or damaged
aluminium washer beneath this will cause
leakage, with consequent heavier consumption.
Poor acceleration
Check that the accelerator pump diaphragm is
sound .
Remove the pump jet to ensure it is perfectly
clear to give an unbroken stream of petrol from
the orifice when the pump is operated, and that
Fuel system
the rubber ·o· ring sealing the jet is sound.
Flat spots or hesitation on progressive opening
can generally be eliminated by careful adjustment
of the slow running mixture.
Loss of power
Check jet needle valve sizes, make certain that
all jets and passages are clear and that the
throttle is opening fully.
Accelerator pedal assembly
The accelerator pedal shares a mounting bracket
assembly with clutch and brake pedals. This
assembly has to be removed from the vehicle
footwell before the pedals can be dismantled,
the procedure of which is described in Section H.
Accelerator cable (early vehicles)
To adjust
1 Remove centre console (see Section R).
2
7
Section P
Remove engine rear access panel.
To replace
1 Thread new cable through grommet in
engine bulkhead, connect to accelerator pedal
and locate retaining fastener in pedal mounting
bracket.
2 Insert accelerator cable through support
bracket, locate inner cable in throttle lever
trunnion, and secure outer cable with retaining
fastener.
3 Using long nosed pliers through access
grommet aperture pull the accelerator cable to
take up the slack and then retighten trunnion
screw through rear access aperture.
4 Replace access grommet and rear access
panel.
5
Replace centre console.
Accelerator cable (later vehicles)
To adjust
1 From inside engine compartment slacken
the locknut securing throttle cable adjuster to
abutment bracket on cylinder head.
3 Prise plastic grommet from L. H. side of
engine compartment.
2 Move adjuster down the slot in abutment
bracket to take out the slack in the cable and
retighten locknut.
4 Using a long screwdriver through rear
access aperture, slacken throttle trunnion screw.
3 Start the engine, check operation of the
throttle and readjust the cable, if necessary.
5 Pull the accelerator cable to take up the
slack, using long nosed pliers through grommet
access aperture and then retighten trunnion
screw through rear access aperture.
6 Start the engine, check operation of the
throttle and readjust, if necessary. Replace
grommet, rear access panel and centre console.
To remove
1 Remove centre console (see Secti~n R).
2
Remove engine rear access panel.
3 Prise plastic access grommet from L.H. side
of engine bulkhead.
4 Using a long screwdriver through rear
access aperture, slacken throttle lever trunnion
screw.
5 Unhook accelerator cable lug from pedal,
release plastic retaining fastener from pedal
mounting bracket, and withdraw cable.
6 From inside engine compartment withdraw
cable through engine bulkhead.
7 Release retaining fastener from support
bracket on cylinder head, withdraw accelerator
cable and remove from vehicle.
To remove
1 Slacken locknut securing throttle cable
adjuster to abutment bracket, slide adjuster
down slot in abutment bracket and disconnect
cable at throttle lever trunnion.
2 Remove locknut and washer and disconnect
·
adjuster from abutment bracket.
3 Unhook acce.lerator cable lug from pedal,
release plastic retaining fastener from pedal
mounting bracket, and withdraw cable.
4 From inside engine compartment withdraw
cable through rubber grommet in engine
bulkhead and remove from vehicle.
To replace
1 Thread new cable through grommet in
engine bulkhead, connect to accelerator pedal
and locate retaining fastener in pedal mounting
bracket.
2
Locate cable in throttle lever trunnion.
3 Secure cable adjuster in abutment bracket,
slide down the bracket slot to take up slack,
and tighten locknut.
4 Start the engine, check operation of the
throttle and readjust, if necessary.
Fuel system
Section P
8
Air cleaner
The air cleaner should be checked every
3,000 miles (5,000km) and replaced every
6,000 miles (1 O,OOOkm) .
To remove filter element
1 Remove oil filler cap from rocker cover.
2 Remove centre screw and washer and lift
air cleaner body, including oi l filler cap and hose,
from carburettor.
3
To prevent dirt from the element accidentally
entering the carburettor pull the choke control
out to close the strangler.
4 Remove filter element. Never clean the
element always fit a new one. The oil filler
cap should also receive attention whenever the
air cleaner is serviced. The cap contains a gauze
element which should be washed in paraffin,
oil dipped then thoroughly wiped before
replacing.
5 Clean air cleaner base plate, position new
filter element, refit air cleaner body and secure
with single screw and washer.
Figure 5
Air cleaner
1 Air cleaner
2 Element
3 Sleeve. air cleaner
4 Hose. air clea ner
5 Clip. hose
Fuel system specification
Fuel tank capacity
27·27 litres (6 gallons)
Fuel pump
Type
Mechanical
Carburettor
Type
Single choke, down draught - 30 IZ or 30 IZE
Jet sizes (mm)
Main jet
Compensating (correction) jet
Slow running (idling) jet
Slow running air bleed
Accelerator pump jet
Accelerator pump back bleed
Economy jet
Needle valve
30 IZ Carburettor
105
160
50
80
40
35
50
1·6
30 IZE Carburettor
97 ·5
160
50
40
40
1·6
Robin 810 Workahop Manual Supplement
Fuel system
Figure 1
Section P
Fuel tank and pipes
1 Fuel tank
2 Tank unit
3 Sealing ring, tank unit
4 Locking ring. tank unit
5 Drain plug
6 Washer. drain plug
7 Washer. tank side
8 Nut. tank side
9 Set screw. tank to chassis
10 Washer. tank to chassis
1 1 Nut. tank to chassis
12 Filler tube
13 Hose. filler tube
14 Clip. hose
1 6 Breather. hose
16 Clip, breather
17 Grommet
18 Pipe. tank to pump
19 Olive
20 Nut
21 Pipe, pump to hose
22 Olive
23 Nut
24 Hose. pipe to carburettor
25 Clip. hose
26 'P' clip. hose
27 In-line filter
28 Pipe. filter to sleeve
29 Sleeve. pipe to tank
30 Clip. filter securing
31 Clip. fuel and bundy pipe
32 Clip. fu<JI pipe
33 Filler cap. silver
34 Filler cap. chrome
Fuel tank
Fuel pump
The Robin 850 fuel tank now incorporates a
breather pipe for the tank filler hose (see
Figure 1 ). The pipe is connected to a stub
pipe which protrudes from_the rear of the tank
adjacent to the filler tube. To remove the pipe
slacken off a single jubilee clip securing the
breather and prise from the stub pipe.
The fuel tank is now secured at an additional
mounting point. An L- shaped mounting
bracket welded to the front of the tank is
secured to the chassis rear crossmember by a
single set screw, lockwasher and nut.
With the introduction of the Robin 850 the
bundy pipe from the fuel pump to the
carburettor has been deleted. It is replaced by
a short bundy pipe, secured to the pump by
nut and olive connection, and a flexible hose
which connects the bundy pipe to an inlet
pipe on the carburettor float chamber lid. The
flexible hose is secured to each pipe by a
metal clip and supported by a bracket located
under an existing cylinder head nut. and a ' P'
clip secured to one of the rocker cover
securing nuts.
1
Fuel syst em
2
Vehicles fitted w ith a carburettor having a
tamper-proof device conform with more
stringent regulations, requiring the sealing of
adjusters to prevent the value of toxic exhaust
emission exceeding the permitted level. The
tamper-proof carburettor fitted has the
mixture adjustment sealed at the factory by
means of semi -circular plastic shrouds wtth a
'snap' fastening fitted around the mixture
adjusting nut after the correct mixture has been
obtained. If an attempt is made to remove
these shrouds the fasteners w ill break off.
However, earlier vehicles, built without
tamper-proof carburettors, are still required by
law to be adjusted so that the permitted level
of toxic exhaust emission is not exceeded .
The information in this Workshop Manual
Supplement includes details of 'slow running'
and 'fast idle' choke adjustments. These are
Figure 2
In-line fuel filter
1 Filter element
In -line fu el fi lter
(from chassis No. 6F2/ 131 09870)
The Robin 850 fuel system now incorporates
an in-line fuel filter situated on the frame
sidemember forward of the fuel tank.
Remova l a nd repla cement
The in-line filter is secured to the fuel pipe by
means of spring clips. The fuel pipe being a
push fit into each end of the transparent filter
tubing. When replacing the filter it is most
important to note the direction of fuel flow
which is indicated in Figure 2.
Routine maintenance
The fuel fi lter should be renewed every
12,000 miles (20,000km) .
Carburettor
(see also exhaust emission)
From the outset of the Robin 850 an S.U. type
HS2 carburettor conforming to the Department
of the Environment Vehicle Emission
Regulations has been introduced.
Routine maintenance
The carburettor dashpot in the suction
chamber requires topping-up every 3,000 miles
(5,000km) (Figure 4).
Exhaust emission
The Rbbin 850 has been manufactured to
conform with legislation on exhaust emission.
The law requires that Carbon M onoxide (CO)
emission must not exceed 4!% with the idle
speed increased by 250 rpm or decreased by
100 rpm from the manufacturer's
recommendation.
the only adjus tme nts within t he scope
of t he 'owner' w ithout specialised
equipment. If satisfactory performance
cannot be obtained from these adjustments,
then the necessary tuning or servicing of the
carburettor MUST be carried out by an
authorised Reliant Dealer.
Any adjustment made without the necessary
specialised equipment, or the breaking of
tamper-proof sealing devices, will result in the
vehicle failing to comply with Emission
Regulations specified by the Department of
the Environment.
Carburettor
The following information includes details of
'slow running' and 'fast idle' adjustments. It
cannot be over-emphasised that these are the
only adjustments to be carried out by the
owner.
Adjusting the carburettor
Before adjusting the carburettor it is essential
that maladjustment or faults from other sources
are eliminated. Therefore, it is important to
check the following :
(a) Valve clearances.
(b) Spark plug condition.
(c) Contact breaker gap.
(d) Ignition timing and advance.
(e) Possible air leakage into the induction
system.
The latter will resu lt in a weak mixture which
wi ll cause misfiring and erratic running. Air
leaks can be caused by a deteriorated or loose
breather hose, from oil filler cap to carburettor;
ring in the oil filler cap; a
a worn or split
damaged rocker cover gasket or overtightened
rocker cover nuts, or even by the oil level
dipstick not being correctly seated in its tube.
·o·
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
Fuel system
Figure 3
3
Carburettor
1 Body
2 Lifting pin
3 Spring
4 Circlip
6 Suction chamber
6 Piston
7 Needle guide
8 Throttle spindle
9 Lockwasher
10 Nut
11 Disc
12 Screw
13 Throttle lever
14 Cam. lever and link
16 Pivot
16 Tube. inner
17 Tube. outer
18 Cam lever
19 Distance washer
20 Jet bearing
21 Locknut
22 Spring
23 Jet adjusting nut
24 Jet
25 Washer
26 Gland
27 Ferrule
28 Sleeve nut
29 Float chamber
30 Bolt. float chamber
31 Lid. float chamber
.32 Float
33 Hinge pin
34 Needle and seat
36 Baffle plate
36 Gasket
37 Needle
38 Piston spnng
39 Guide
40 Spring
41 Damper
42 Return spring
43 Screw
44 Lockwasher
45 Screw. throttle
46 Spring
47 Screw. fast idle
48 Spring
49 Screw. suction chamber
60 Guide. choke cable
51 Screw
62 I nsen. screw
63 Clip. pick-up lever
64 Gasket
65 Gasket
Fuel system
4
time, e.g. when running-in a new vehicle, and
the above adjustment although restoring the
correct idle speed results in erratic running,
this would indicate that the mixture requires
adjustment and the vehicle MUST be
returned to an authorised Dealer for this to be
carried out.
Fast idle (choke) adjustment
Figure 4
Carburettor lubrication
1 Damper
2 Suction chamber
Idling or slow running adjustment
Pull out the mixture control {choke) until the
linkage is just about to move the jet. Start the
engine and adjust the fast idle screw {see
Figure &) to give an engine speed of
2.250 rpm. Push the control fully in and check
that there is a clearance of 1 ·016 mm
{0·040 in ) between the end of the screw and
the cam. The mixture control cable should have
approximately 1 ·6 mm {nin) free movement
before it commences to pull on the cam lever.
Note : Any adjustment of idling or slow
running must be followed by a check on the
fast idle adjustment.
Air cleaner
1 Run the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature.
{chassis No. 5J/8A/1 001 - 5J/ 8A/ 1151 and
5J3/13201152 -6H3/ 1221 0274
2
To remove filter element (Figure 6)
1 Release the two clips securing the body to
the base plate.
Turn the throttle adjusting screw {see
Figure 5) clockwise to increase speed, or
anti- clockwise to decrease, until the desired
idling speed is obtained.
The exhaust note should be regular and even
when idling at the correct idling speed of
900 rpm. The carburettor is adjusted, on
manufacture, to idle at this speed. However,
should the idle speed alter over a period of
2 Remove the air cleaner body and carefully
remove the filter element.
To replace filter element
1 Clean the base plate and body interior.
2 Smear the plastic ends of the new filter
element with petroleum jelly or grease to
facilitate sealing on replacement.
3 Position the new filter element, refit the
air cleaner body, and secure with the two
retaining clips.
Air cleaner
{from chassis No. 6 H3/1221 0275)
A redesigned air cleaner for use with the
tamper-proof carburettor was introduced on
the Robin 850 from the above chassis
number.
Figure &
Slow running and fast idle screw
1 Fast idle adjusting screw
2 Throttle adjustment screw
To remove filter element (Figure 7)
1 Remove the single screw and plain washer
securing the filter element canister and intake
·
tube to the air cleaner body.
2 Remove the canister and intake tube and
carefully remove the filter element.
Robin 850 Workahop Manual Supplement
Fuel system
5
To replace filter element
1 Clean the base of the body and the
canister interior.
2 Smear the plastic ends of the new filter
element with petroleum jelly or grease to
facilitate sealing on replacement.
3 Position the new filter element, refit the
filter element canister and secure with the
single set screw and plain washer.
Routine maintenance
The filter element should be checked every
6.000 miles (10,000km) and replaced every
12.000 miles (20.000km) on both types of air
cleaner.
Figure 6 Air cleaner
(chassis No. 5J/ 8A/ 1001 - 5J/ 8A/ 1151
& 5J3/ 13201152-6H3/ 1221 0274)
1 Air cleaner
2 Element
3 Set screw. cleaner to carburenor
4 Lockwasher. cleaner to carburenor
6 Washer. cleaner to carburen or
6 Gasket cleaner to carburenor
1 Air cleaner
2 Element
3 Screw
4 Washer
6 Gasket
6 Bolt. cleaner to carburettor
7 Bolt. cleaner to carb urenor
8 Lockwasher
9 Plain w asher
Figure 7
Air cleaner (from chassis No. 6H3/ 1221 0274)
Section Q
The body
Door window regulator mechanism 1
Door lock mechanism 1
Adjustments of door striker plate 2
Window frame and glass 2
Side door 3
Door window 3
Rear door Van 3
Rear door lock mechanism 4
Door seals 4
Bonnet 4
Pivot bolt backing plate 6
Tread plate side door 8
Kick plate Van rear door 8
Overriders 8
Ext~rior mirror 8
Mud flaps 8
Windscreen 10
Rear quarterlight Saloon 10
Rear window Saloon 11
Rear window Van 12
The body
1
Section Q
Door window regulator mechanism
Door lock mechanism
To remove (see Figure 1}
1 Remove single screw and withdraw
regulator handle complete with escutcheon from
door casing.
To remove (see Figure 1 }
1 Remove regulator handle and door casing
as previously described.
2 Unscrew nine tappit fixings and remove side
door casing panel.
3 Remove six 1 UNF set screws. complete
with lockwashers. and detach regulator
mechanism mounting plate.
4 Peel the waterproof panel from the base of
the door and raise to clear regulator mechanism.
2 Unhook lock to remote control mechanism
linkage at remote control.
3 Unscrew two No. 8 and one No. 6 screws
and remove remote control from door.
4 Remove four 1 UNF countersunk screws
and lockwashers and withdraw side door lock.
complete with remote control linkage.
5 Lower regulator mechanism and slide
operating arm from window regulator channel.
5 Remove retaining clips and rivet. and
disconnect linkage from lock.
6 Replace in reverse order. liberally greasing
window regulator channel and regulator
mechanism spring.
6 Detach external side door handle (both
locking and non -locking} by removing the 2BA
and 1 BSF set screws and washers.
Figure 1
Side door mechanism
1 Remote control mechanrsm
16 Screw. lock to door
2 Bezel. remote control
3 lnsen. remote conuol
4 Screw. remote conuol
5 Screw. remote control
6 Washer. remote control
7 Remote control hnk
8 Adjustment pin
9 Insulation. link
10 Clip. link
11 Link. internal lockir1g
12 Insulation. link
13 Clip
14 Lock. door
15 Backing plate. lock
17 Lockwasher. lock to door
18 Backplate and loop. striker
19 Cover plate. striker
20 Travel stop. cover plate
21 Clip. stop to cover
22 Screw. striker
23 Lockwasher. striker
24 Handle. non locking
25 Screw. handle adjusting
26 Nut. handle adjusting
27 Set screw. handle to door
28 Lockwasher. handle to door
29 Washer. handle to door
30 Set screw. handle to door
31 Lockwasher. handle to door
32 Window regulator
33 Mountrng plate
34 Set saew. mounting plate
35 Lockwasher. mounting plate
36 Se t screw
37 Washer
38 Lockwasher
39 Nut
40 Handle. window regulaung
41 Washer. handle
42 Screw. handle
43 Lockwashor. handle
44 Unk guard. regulator
45 Rivet. hnk guard
The body
Section 0
2
7 Replace in reverse order. After fitting the
external handle to the door. the plunger screw
(adjuster screw) should be adjusted to give a
clearance of 1 ·58mm (0·063in) between the
plunger and lock thrust plate.
3 Retighten striker plate retaining screws and
then check that door lock mechanism makes a
good seating on the catch.
Adjustment of door striker plate
To remove (see Figure 2)
1 Remove door casing. regulator mechanism
and door lock mechanism. as previously described.
1 Slacken the two striker plate retaining
screws. DO NOT remove the screws. otherwise
the catch of the striker plate will fall between
the inner and outer body.
2 Adjust the striker plate (elongated holes in
the body facilitate this) until the door is flush
with the body.
Figure 2
Window frame and glass
2 Remove the waterproof sheet completely
from the door.
3 With the window fully closed prise the silent
channel from the bottom of the window frame
to gain access to the lower frame retaining
rivets.
Side door shell and trim
1 Side door
2 Drop glass
3 Frame
4 Silent channel
5 Rivet. frame to door
6 Weatherstrip, Inner
7 Rivet. weatherstrip to door
8 Weatherstrip outer
9 Rivet. weatherstrip to door
10 Channel regulator
11 Insulation. drop glass
12 Casing board
13 Tapit fming
14 Hinge assembly, upper
15 Hingo assembly, lower
16 Set screw . hinge to body
17 Washer. hinge to body
18 Lockwasher. hinge to door
19 Set screw. hinge to door
20 Lockwasher. hinge to door
21 Backing plate. hinge
22 Support plate. hinge
23 Set screw. support plate to body
24 Coachwasher. support plate to body
25 Lockwasher. support plate to body
26 Set screw. support plate to hinge
27 Coachwasher. support plate to hinge
28 Lockwasher. support plate to hinge
29 Nut. support plate to hingo
30 Backing plate. hinge
31 Backing plate. hinge
32 Rivet. plate to body
33 Waterproof panel
34 Tape. waterproof panel
35 Pad. door link
36 Weatherstnp. door aperture
The body
Section Q
4 Carefully drill off the rivet heads using a
3·97mm ( 352 in) dia. drill, and then tap rivet
shafts from the frame.
5 Press the silent channel back into the frame
and fully lower window.
6 Prise the silent channel from the top of the
frame, drill the heads off the six retaining rivets,
and tap the shafts from the frame.
7 Pull window frame slightly forward and then
lift from the door.
8 The window glass can then be removed
from the base of the door.
9 Remove the shafts of the rivets, eight in all,
which will have fallen into the base of the door.
To replace
1 Place the window glass in the base of the
door.
2 Locate the window frame in the door and
carefully lower over the window glass. Ensure
the glass fits correctly in the silent channels.
3 Prise the silent channel from the top of the
window frame and secure top half of the frame
to the door using six 3·175 x 12·70mm
(0·125 x 0·50in) rivets.
4 Press the silent channel back into the frame
and raise window glass.
5 Prise the silent channel from the bottom of
the window frame and then rivet frame to door.
6 Press the silent channel back into the frame
ensuring it is squarely seated.
7
Lower window glass.
8 Replace regulator mechanism, waterproof
sheet, door lock mechanism and door casing, etc.
Side door weatherstrips
To remove and replace (see Figure 2)
1 Remove regulator handle and door casing
as previously described.
2 Using a 3·97mm (a52 in) dia. drill, carefully
drill the heads off the rivets securing
weatherstrip to door casing.- Remove rivet
shafts.
3 Position new weatherstrip and secure to
door casing with six 3·175 x 8·89mm
(0·125 x 0·35in) rivets.
4 With the window fully open carefully drill
the heads off the rivets securing outer
weatherstrip to door.
3
5 Push the rivet shafts through into door
body and then peel weatherstrip from door.
6 Remove all signs of adhesive from
weatherstrip seating on door.
7 Smear a light coating of adhesive on new
weatherstrip and its seating on door and leave
until tacky.
8
Fit weatherstrip to door and rivet in position.
9
Replace door casing and regulator handle.
Side door
To remove (see Figure 2)
1 Peel back the carpet from footwell side
sufficiently to clear door hinge access panel.
2 Unscrew six No. 8 self tapping screws and
remove hinge access panel.
3 With an assistant supporting the door
remove three :!- UN F set screws, complete with
plain washers and lockwashers, securing lower
door hinge to body. Remove single:!- UNF set
screw, coachwasher,. lockwasher and nut
securing hinge box to support plate and body.
4 Repeat operation for upper hinge and
remove door, complete with hinges, from
vehicle.
5 If necessary, the hinge support plate can be
withdrawn through access aperture after
removing two -l UN F set screws, coachwashers
and lockwashers.
6
Replace in reverse order.
Door hinge
To remove (see Figure 2)
1 Remove door as previously described.
2 Unscrew four:!- UNF countersunk set
screws, complete with lockwashers, and remove
upper hinge from door.
3
Repeat procedure for lower hinge.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Rear door - van
To remove (see Figure 3)
1 From underneath R.H. rear wheel arch
disconnect rear number plate lamp lead at
snap connector.
2 Remove two:!- UNF nuts, lockwashers and
plain washers from upper and lower hinges and
lift rear door from vehicle. Withdraw the four
fixing studs.
The body
4
Section Q
3 Three i UNF nuts, lockwashers, plain
washers and studs secure upper and lower
hinges to the door.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Rear door lock mechanism
To rem ove (see Figur e 3)
1 Remove two No. 8 countersunk screws and
withdraw door handle from lock mechanism.
2 Unscrew six No. 8 countersunk wood
screws and remove door lock.
3 If it is necessary to remove the dovetail use
a 3·97mm (~in) dia. drill and then tap the
rivet shafts into the door.
access grommet from body and then unscrew
two i UNF countersunk screws. Retain striker.
6 Replace components in reverse order taking
note of the following : Secure dovetail (female)
to body with four 4·76 x 16·51 mm (0· 181 x
0 ·65in) rivets, and dovetail (male) to door with
six 3·175 x 101 ·60mm (0·125 x 4 ·0in) rivets.
Door seals
The rubber seals are carried on a ·v· shaped
metal section clipped onto the body flanges.
Care should be taken not to hammer the seals
onto the flange as this will cause the metal
section to open up and the retaining claws will
not hold. A rubber mallet is recommended for
the operation.
Bonnet
4 The dovetail on the body is retained by four
rivets and should be removed using the method
above but with a 5·56mm b \ in) dia. drill.
5
To remove striker plate from body, first prise
Figure 3
To r emove (see Figure 4)
1 Remove two pivot bolts, complete with
nylon spacing washers. and lift bonnet from the
vehicle.
Rear door, van
1 Rear door
2 Seal. door aperture
3 Hinge. upper
4 Hinge. lower
6 Washer. hinge
6 Lockwasher. hinge
7 Nut. hinge
8 Lock. rear door
9 Woodscrew. lock to door
10 Striker. lock
11 Backing plate. striker
12 Set screw
13 Lockwasher
14 Dovetail. female
16 Rivet. dovetail
16 Dovetail. male
17 Rivet. dovetail
18 Locking handle. rear door
19 Key. handle locking
20 Washer. handle to door
21 Screw. handle to door
22 Rear window. door
23 Weatherstrip
24 Ki ck plato. rear door
26 R•vet. kick plate to body
26 Washer. kick plate to body
27 Grommet. striker
The body
Section Q
5
I
I
Figure 4
Bonnet
1 Bonnet hd
2 Striker plate
3 Rivet. striker plate
4 Plate. bonnet pivot
Fig ure 5
6 RIYel. plate to body
6 Bolt. bonnet pivot
7 Washer. pi vot bolt
8 Buffer. bonnet lid to body
9 Bonnet badge
10 Clip. badge to bonnet
11 Lock-bonnet
12 Key
Body mounting plates
Frame
2 Reinforcement plate
4 Re.nforcement plate
6 Reinforcement plate
7 Reinforcement plate
The body
2
Section 0
6
Replace in reverse order.
4 Disconnect temperature sender unit lead at
thermostat.
Pivot bolt backing plate
5 Disconnect oil pressure switch at cylinder
block.
To remove
1 Using a 3·97mm (0·156in) dia. drill, remove
the heads off the two rivets securing backing
plate to body. Tap out rivet shafts.
2 Replace in reverse order, securing backing
plate with two 3·18 x 8·89mm (0·125 x 0·35in)
rivets.
6 Disconnect high and low tension leads
from coil.
7 Disconnect earthing lead from engine front
mounting.
8
Body
Disconnect speedometer cable at gearbox.
9 Disconnect throttle cable at pedal and
withdraw from body.
The Saloon and Van use identical fixing points
for securing the body to the chassis.
10
Disconnect clutch cable at operating lever.
11
Disconnect handbrake lever cable.
12
Disconnect floor mounted seat belt fixings.
13
Remove air cleaner.
14
Drain and remove radiator.
Later vehicles use a standard mounting plate,
also shown in Figure 5. The mounting plates
used for securing the body to the longitudinal
chassis side members are rivetted into the top
flanges of the chassis.
15
Disconnect heater hoses.
16
Remove steering column and box.
17
Remove centre console.
To remove body (see Figure 6 and Figure 7)
1 Disconnect and remove battery.
18
Remove gear lever.
On early vehicles three types of mounting
plates are used and are located as shown in
Figure 5. The mounting plates used for
securing the body to the longitudinal chassis
side members are rivetted into the box section
of the chassis.
2
Disconnect alternator leads.
3
Disconnect starter motor lead.
Figure 6
19 Disconnect exhaust downpipe from
manifold.
20 Fold back floor carpets to gain access to
the body to chassis fixing points.
Body, saloon
1 Spare wheel retainer
2 Rivet. retainer to body
3 Bracket. spare wheel
4 Bolt
5 Washer
6 Heat shield
7 Rivet. shield to body
8 Washer. shield to body
9 Radio suppression shield
1 0 Access panel. door hinge
11 Screw. panel to body
12 Access panel. engine rear
13 Screw. pa!)el to body
14 Nut. panel to body
15 'E' mark approval plate
16 Oil recommendation plate
17 Rivet. plate to body
18 Front grille
19 Screw. grille to body
20 Insert. grille to body
21 Over-rider
22 Finisher strip
23 Set screw. over-rider
24 Washer. over-rider
25 Lockwasher. over-rider
26 Exterior mirror
27 Insert
28 Screw. mirror
29 Mud flap. rear
30 Mounting bracket
31 Rivet. bracket to flap
32 Washer. bracket to flap
33 Mounting plate. top
34 Set screw
35 Lockwasher
36 Nut
37 Mud flap. front
38 Mounting plate
39 Rivet
40 Washer
41 Tread plate
42 Rivet. tread plate
43 Mot.if robin
44 Motif. super robin
45 Body line
46 Grommet. carburettor access
47 Grommet
48 Striker, bonnet
49 Rivet
50 Striker rear window lock
51 Rivet
52 Plate. bonnet pivot
53 Rivet
54 Bolt. bonnet pivot
55 Spacing washer
56 Mounting plate solenoid
57 Rivet. plate to body
58 Mounting plate. coil
59 Rivet. plate to body
60 Drain plug
61 Hinge support plate
62 Set screw. plate to body
63 Coachwasher. plate to body
64 Lockwasher. plate to body
65 Set screw. plate to hinge
66 Coachwasher. plate to hinge
67 Lockwasher. plate to hinge
68 Nut, plate to hinge
The b ody
Figure 6
· no
Sect1o
Body, Saloon
----7
The body
Section Q
8
21 Carefully drill the heads off the rivets
securing reinforcement plates and body to
chassis, using a 6·35mm (0·25in) dia. drill.
Tap out the rivet shafts and remove
reinforcement plates.
inserts secure front grille to the body (see
Figure 6 and Figure 7)
22
The overriders are secured to the body from the
rear with a single~ UNF set screw, plain washer
and lockwasher (see Figure 6 and Figure 7).
Lift the body from the chassis.
23 Replace in reverse order securing body to
chassis with reinforcement plates and
4·76 x 16·51 mm (0·188 x 0·65in) rivets.
Overriders
Exterior mirror
Tread plate (side door)
To remove (see Figure 6)
1 Using a 3·175mm (1Jin) dia. drill remove the
heads from the eight rivets securing tread plate
to body.
2 Tap out the rivet shafts and remove tread
plate.
3 Replace in reverse order with eig~t
3·97 x 9·40mm (0·150 x 0·37in) rivets.
Kick plate, van (rear door)
To remove (see Figure 7)
1 Drill the heads off the six retaining rivets,
using a 5·56mm ( 372 in) dia. drill, tap out the
rivet shafts and remove kick plate.
2 Replace in reverse order securing plate to
body with six 4·76 x 101·60mm (0·181 x 4·0in)
rivets and plain washers.
Two No. 1 0 countersunk screws and nylon
inserts secure exterior mirror to the forward end
of each door (see Figure 6 and Figure 7).
Mud flap, rear
To remove and replace (see Figure 6 and
Figure 7)
1 Remove two set screws, nuts and
lockwashers from mounting plate and bracket
and detach mud flap from rear leaf springs.
2 Drill out six rivets and remove flap from
mounting bracket, complete with washers.
3 Position new flap on mounting bracket and
secure with six 4·76 x 1·25mm (0·188 x 0·49in)
rivets and washers.
4 Refit mud ilap to leaf spring and secure
with mounting plate, two No. 10 UNF set
screws, lockwashers and nuts.
Mud flap, front
Front grille
Three No. 8 countersunk screws and nylon
Figure 7
To remove and replace (see Figure 6 and
Figure 7)
Body, Van
Spare wheel retainer
2 Rivet. retainer to body
3 Bracket. spare wheel
4 Bolt
5 Washer
6 Radio suppression shield
7 Heat shield
8 Rivet. shields to body
9 Washer, shields to body
10 Access panel, door hinge
11 Screw. panel to body
12 Nut. panel to body
13 Access panel. engine rear
14 Screw, panel to body
15 Nut. panel to body
16 Grommet
17 'E' mark approval plate
18 Oil recommendation plate
19 Rivet, plate to body
20 Floor panel
21 Rivet, panel to body
22 Set screw, panel to body
23 Washer, panel to body
24 Buffer. panel to body
25 Front grille
27 Insert. grille to body
28 Over-rider
29 Finisher strip
30 Set screw
31 Washer
32 Lockwasher
33 Exterior mirror
34 Insert
35 Screw, mirror
36 Mud flap, rear
37 Bracket. mud flap
38 Rivet
39 Washer
40 Mounting plate. top
41 Set screw
42 Lockwasher
43 Nut
44 Mud flap. front
45 Mounting plate
46 Rivet
47 Washer
48 Tread plate
49 Rivet. plate to body
50 Motif. robin
51 Motif. super robin
53 Grommet, carburettor access
54 Striker plate, bonnet
55 Rivet
56 Plate. bon net pivot
57 Rivet
58 Bolt, bonnet pivot
59 SpacinG washer
60 Mounting plate. solenoid
61 Rivet
62 Mounting plate. coil
63 Rivet
64 Backing plate, backboard
65 Rivet
66 Drain plug
67 Kick-plate. rear door
68 Rivet
69 Washer
70 Hinge support plate
71 Set screw. plate to body
72 Coachwasher. plate to body
73 Lockwasher, plate to body
74 Set screw. plate to hinge
75 Coachwasher. plate to hinge
76 Lockwasher, plate to hinge
77 Nut. plate to hinge
The body
Figure 7
Section 0
Body, Van
9
The body
10
Section Q
------
Figure 8
Glasses and seals
1 Windscreen
2 Weatherstrip
3 Locking strip
4 Rear window. saloon
5 Sealing ring
6 Rear quanerlight
7 Weatherstrip
8 Rear window. van
9 Weatherstrip. van rear wmdow
1 Drill out four rivets securing mud f lap and
mounting plate to body.
6 Examine the weatherstrip for signs of
deterioration and renew, if necessary.
2 Locate mounting plate and new flap on the
body and secure with four 4·76 x 1·25mm
(0·188 x 0 ·49ln} rivets and washers.
To replace
1 Fit the weatherstrip to the lip of the
windscreen aperture, positioning the rubber so
that the joint will finish half way up the 'A' post.
Windscreen
Note: If a new weatherstrip is being fitted, it
sbould be cut at least 25·4mm (1 ·Oin} oversize.
The ends of the overlap can be forced back
until a tight butt joint is formed.
To remove (see Figure 8 )
1 Remove windscreen wiper arms and blades.
2 Cover the bonnet with a suitable c loth to
prevent possible damage to the paint work.
3 Using a screwdriver, from which all the
sharp edges have been removed, ease the ends
of the fillerstrip from the windscreen
weatherstrip.
4 With the aid of an assistant, working outside
the vehicle, apply hand pressure to the inside
of the screen while easing down the lip of the
weatherstrip to release the screen .
5 Remove windscreen from the vehicle and
place on a bench protected by cloth or felt to
avoid scratching the glass.
2 The windscreen can now be fitted by
inserting a corner into the weatherstrip and
progressively easing the lip of the weatherstrip
over the glass with a soft tapered piece of
doweling.
3 Using a suitable roller tool insert the filler
strip, the joint of which should be on the
opposite 'A' post to that of the weatherstrip.
If the origtnal filler strip is used it should be
stretched slightly before fitting .
Rear quarterlight saloon
To remove
The body
11
Section Q
Apply firm pressure on the glass from inside the
vehicle, adjacent to the 'B' post and remove rear
quarterlight and rubber weatherstrip.
4 Pull out the drawcord while an assistant
applies light hand pressure to the outside of the
quarterlight.
To replace
1 Fit rear quarterlight to weatherstrip rubber.
5 Check the seating of the quarterlight glass
in the weatherstrip.
2 Fit a drawcord in the weatherstrip rubber
to body groove allowing a crossover of
approximately 152·4mm (6·0in) at the bottom.
Rear window, saloon
3 Position quarterlight in the body aperture
with the cord ends inside the vehicle, at
bottom edge of glass.
Figure 9
To remove (see Figure 9)
1 Raise rear window and locate support rod.
2 Disconnect heated rear window. if fitted,
at the bullet connector.
Rear window saloon
1 Rear window
2 Sealin g ring
3 Buffer
4 Rear window hinge
5 Coach boll. hinge
6 Gasket. hinge
7 Washer. hinge
8 Coachwasher. hinge
9 Domed nut. hinge
10 Backing plate. hinge
11 Lockwasher. plate
12 Domed nut. plate
13 Handle. rear window
14 Lock. rear window
16 Key
1 6 Gasket. handle
1 7 W asher. handle
18 Striker. lock
19 Rivet. striker
20 Support rod
21 Knob. support rod
22 Catch plate
23 Retainer
24 Brocket. retainer
25 Split pin. rotainor
26 Rivet. retainer
27 Stud. support rod
28 Waved washer, support rod
29 Coachwasher, support rod
The body
Section Q
3 Remove domed nut, complete with coach
washer and insulating washer and withdraw
coach bolt from both hinges.
4 Remove support rod and carefully remove
rear window glass. Retain hinge gasket.
5 The window handle is secured to the glass
by the lock retaining nut.
6 Two~ UNF domed nuts, lockwashers and a
backing plate secure the hinges to the body.
7
Replace components in reverse order
Rear window support rod, saloon
To remove (see Figure 9)
1 Unscrew retaining stud, complete with
waved washer and coachwasher, and withdraw
support rod from catch plate.
2 The support rod catch plate and retainer
bracket can be removed by drilling the heads
off the retaining rivets with a 5·56mm U 2 in)
dia. drill and then tapping out the rivet shafts.
3 Replace catch plate and retainer bracket
with 4·76 x 8·89mm (0·181 x 0·35in) rivets.
4
Refit support rod in reverse order.
Rear window, van
Follow the procedure as for the Saloon rear
quarterlight.
12
Robin 810 Workahop Manual Supplement
The body
Section 0
added, secured by the existing hinge to door
fixings, i.e. set screws and shakeproof washers.
Side door
With the introduction of the Robin 850 the
following modifications have been made to
the side door mountings (see Figure1) .
The backing plate for the hinge to the door has
been modified by the addition of a welded
stiffening plate.
An additional plate, hinge to door, has been
Figure 1
1
The hinge support brackets RH and LH have
been strengthened by the addition of w elded
gussets and modified by the addition of a weld
nut providing an extra lower fixing to the
frame.
A stiffening plate has been added to t he fixing
of the hinge plate and support bracket to
the body.
Side door shell and trim
1 Side door
2 Drop glass
3 Frame
4 Silent channel
5 Rivet. frame to door
6 Stiffener. door casing
7 Weatherstrip. inner
8 Rivet. weatherstrip to door
9 Weatherstrip outer
10 Rivet. weatherstrip to door
11 Regulator channel
12 Insulation. drop glass
1 3 Casing board
14 Tappet fuung
16 Nut1nsen
16 Screw
17 Retamer. snap cap
18 Snap cap
19 Hinge, upper
20 Hinge. lower
21 Set screw. hinge to body
22 Lockwasher. hinge to body
23 Washer. hinge to body
24 Backing plate. hinge
26 Backing plate. hinge
26 Rivet. plates to body
27 Set screw. hinge to door
28 Lockwasher. hinge to door
29 Plate. hinge to door
30 Backing plate
31 Rivet. plate to door
32 Hinge support plate
33 Stiffener. plate
34 Set screw. plate to body
35 Lockwasher. plate to body
36 Coachw asher. plate to body
37 Set screw. hinge to plate
38 Coachwasher. hinge to plate
39 Lockwasher. hinge to plate
40 Nut. hinge to plate
41 Shim. plate to chassis
42 Set screw. plate to chassis
43 Lockwasher. plate to chassis
44 Coachwasher. plate to chassis
45 Seal. frame to door
46 Waterproof panel
47 Tape. waterproof panel
48 Pad. antl-ranle
49 Sealing ring
The body
2
4
Remove two plain washers and selflocking nuts securing the upper hinge to the
body.
Rear door - Van
(from chassis No. 6A4/ 13304673)
A new Van rear door has been introduced on
the Robin 850. using a checkstrap and
modified hinges.
5
To remove (Figure 2)
1 Remove the grommet in the rear door for
the number plate lamp lead. disconnect the
wiring at the snap connectors and pull
through complete with the grommet.
6
2 Disconnect the heated rear window wiring
at the lucar blade connections if fitted.
3
Remove a single screw securing the check
link to the check link lug.
Figure 2
Remove three self-tapping screws
securing the lower hinge access panel to the
body.
Remove two plain washers and selflocking nuts securing the lower hinge to the
body, and remove the door from the vehicle.
7
Four washers and self-locking nuts secure
the upper and lower hinges to the door.
8
The checkstrap slide plate is secured to the
door by two screws. plain washers.
lockwashers and nuts. access to which is
gained by removing the large black polythene
Rear door - Van
1 Rear door
2 Seal. rear door aperture
3 Hinge. rear door upper
}
4 Hmge. rear door lower
5 Washer. hrnge to door and body
6 Nut. hinge to door and body
7 Loclcwasher. hinge to door and body
8 Hinge. rear door upper
}
9 Hinge. rear door lower
10 Washer. hinge to door and body
11 Nut. hinge to door and body
12 Look. rear door
1 3 Screw. lock to door
14 Striker. rear door lock
1 5 Backing plate, striker
31 Lrnk
16 Set screw. striker to body
17 Loclcwasher. striker to body 32 Buffer
18 Dovetail. female
33 Washer
34 Split prn
Earty
19 Rrvet. dovetail to body
35 Slide plate
vehrcles 20 Doveta•l male, rea• d oor
21 Rivet. dovetarl to door
36 Screw. slide plate to door
37 Washer. shde plate to door
22 Locking handle
38 Lockwasher. slide plate to door
23 Key. locking handle
Later
24 Gasket. handle to door
veh•cles 25 Screw. handle to door
26 Rear window. door
27 Weatherstrip. window
28 Kickplate. rear door
29 Rivet. plate to door
30 Washer. plate to door
39 Nut. slide plate to door
40 Lug. checkstrap
41 Backing plate. lug to body
42 Rivet. plate to body
43 Screw. lug to body
44 Screw. link to lug
45 Grommet. checkstrap access
Later
vehrcles
Robin 8&0 Work•hop Manuel Supplement
3
grommet in the rear door.
9
Replace in reverse order.
Body - Saloon and Van
(Figure• 4 end &)
W ith the introduction of the Robin 850 the use
of pop rivets and reinforcement plates
Figure 3
Body f ixings
1 Fra me
2 Nut lnsen. body to chassis
3 Set screw, body to chassis
4 Coachw asher. body to chassis
5 Lockw asher. body 10 chJsis
6 Retnforcement plate
750
1 Rtvet. plate ftxtng
only
8 Set SCfew. engtne well t frame
9 Set screw. eng1ne well to frame
10 Coachwasher. engtne well to frame
1 1 Lockwasher. engtne well to frame
12 Nut. engine well to frame
1 3 Insulation
securing the body to the chassis is
discontinued.
The Robin 850 body is now secured to the
chassis using set screws, lockwashers,
coachwashers and nut inserts. There are two
fixing points securing the body to the chassis
front upswept member and a further five
fixing points securing the body to the chassis
rear (see Figure 3) .
The body
4
rf?l!
Figure 4
Main body - Saloon
1 Suppression shield
2 Heat shield
3 Access panel, door hinge
4 Screw, panel to body
5 Captive nut panel to body
6 Access panel. engine rear
7 Screw. panel to body
8 Captive nut panel to body
9 Access panel, engine side
10 Screw, panel to body
11 Captive nut. panel to body
12 Front grille
13 Overrlder. front/rear
14 Fi nisher. overr1der
15 Set screw. ovemder
16 Lockwasher. ovemder
17 Washer. overrider
18 Exterior mirror
19 Insert. mirror fuung
20 Set screw. m1rror fuung
21 Mud flap, rear
22 Bracket mud flap
23 Rivet. bracket to flap
24 Washer. bracket to flap
25 Mounting plate. top
26 Screw. plate fixing
27 Lockwasher, plate fixing
28 Nut. plate fixing
29 Mud flap. front
30 Bracket. mud flap
3 1 Rivet. flap securing
32 Washer, flap securing
33 Tread plate
34 Rivet plate to body
35 Mounting plate. solenoid
36 Rivet. plate to body
37 Mounting plate. coil
38 Rivet plate to body
39 Mounting plate. w iper motor
40 Rivet plate to body
41 Plate, squab stop
42 Rivet plate to body
43 Motif. Robin 850
44 Motif. Super Robin 850
45 Body line
46 Access grommet
47 Access grommet
48 Drain plug
49 ' E' mark approval plate
50 Identificat ion plate
51 Rivet plate to body
52 Mounting plate. spare wheel
53 Rivet. plate to body
Robin 8&0 Workshop Manual Supplement
The body
Figure &
5
M ain body - Van
1 Suppression shield
2 Heat shield
3 Access panel, door hinge
4 Screw. panel to body
5 Captive nut. panel to body
6 Access panel. engine rear
7 Screw. panel to body
8 Captive nut. panel to body
9 Access panel, engine side
10 Screw. panel to body
11 Captive nut. panel to body
12 Front grille
13 Overrider, front/rear
14 Finisher, overrider
1 5 Set screw, overrider
16 Lockwasher, overrider
17 Washer, overrider
18 Exterior mirror
19 Insert, mirror fixing
20 Set screw, mirror fixing
21 !Mud flap. rear
22 Bracket, mud flap
23 Rivet. bracket to flap
24 Washer. bracket to flap
25 Mounting plate, top
26 Screw. plate fixing
27 Lockwasher, plate fixing
28 Nut. plate fixing
29 Mud flap, front
30 Bracket, mud flap
31 Rivet. flap securing
32 'Washer, flap securing
33 Tread plate
34 Rivet, plate to body
35 Mounting plate. solenoid
36 Rivet. plate to body
37 Mounting plate, coil
38 Rivet, plate to body
39 Mounting plete. w iper motor
40 Rivet. plate to body
41 Plate. squab stop
42 Rivet, plate to body
43 Motif. Robin 850
44 Motif, Super Robin 850
45 Body line
46 Access grommet
47 Access grommet
48 Drain plug
49 ' E' mark approval plate
50 Identification plate
51 Rivet. plate to body
52 Mounting plate, spare wheel
53 Rivet, plate to body
54 Floor panel
55 Rivet, panel to body
56 Set screw, panel to body
57 Washer. panel to body
58 Buffer. panel to body
59 Plate, backboard
60 Rivet. plate fixing
Rear window - Saloon
A new rear window and support stay has been
introduced on the Robin 850.
To remove (Figure 6)
1 Raise the rear window and lock the
support stay in position.
2 Disconnect the heated rear window
harness, if fitted, at the black rubber snap
connector.
3 Remove a single domed nut. complete
with coachwasher. gasket and insulating
washer. and withdraw the coach bolt from
each hinge.
The body
6
Figure 6
Rear window - Saloon
1 Rear lift up w indow
2 Weatherstrip
3 Buffer. glass location
4 Hinge. rear window
5 Coach bolt. hinge
6 Insulation washer
7 Gasket. hinge
8 Washer. hinge
9 Domed nut. hinge
10 Backing plate. hinge
11 Lockwasher. hinge
12 Domed nut. hinge
13 Locking handle
14 Plate. lock
15 Gasket. handle
16 Washer. handle
4 Remove a single coach bolt. coachwasher,
plain washer, lockwasher and domed nut
securing the window stay to the glass, and
carefully remove the rear window.
5
The window handle is secured to the glass
by the lock retaining nut.
6 Two i UNF domed nuts, lockwashers and
a backing plate secure the hinges to the body.
7
Replace in reverse order.
Rear window stay - Saloon
To remove
1 Remove two set screws. lockwashers. plain
washers and spacers securing the window
stay lower bracket to the body.
17 Key, handle
18 Stay, rear window
19 Bracket. stay
20 Washer. bracket
21 Nut. bracket
22 Coach bolt. stay to glass
23 Coachwasher. stay to glass
24 Washer. stay to glass
25 Lockwasher. stay to glass
26 Domed nut. stay to glass
27 Screw. stay to body
28 Lockwasher. stay to body
29 Washer. stay to body
30 Spacer. stay to body
31 Stnker. lock
32 Rivet. stnker
2 Remove a single nut and two plain
washers securing the window stay to the
window stay upper support bracket.
3 A single coach bolt, coachwasher, plain
washer, lockwasher and domed nut secures
the upper support bracket to the rear
window glass.
4
Refit in reverse order.
Section R
The interior
Front seats 1
Seat be1ts 2
Rear seat 2
Carpets and interior trim 3
Headlining Saloon 5
Headlining Van 5
Fascia and centre console 6
The interior
Front seats
Seat adjustment
Both front seats are adjustable for reach. Raise
the lever, located on the inside of the seat and
hold the lever in the raised position while the
seat is readjusted to one of the four available
positions. The lever is spring loaded and will
automatically re-lock when released .
To remove front seats (see Figure 1)
1 Remove two?. UNF set screws, lockwashers,
coachwashers and nuts and remove inner and
outer saddle clips securing seat front leg and
mounting plate to body.
2
1
Section R
3 Remove rivet and retaining washer to
disconnect adjustment lever from mounting
plate and lift front seat from the vehicle.
4 As an alternative the seat can be removed
complete with mounting plate by unscrewing
single?. UNF countersunk screw, coachwasher
and self locking nut, securing rear of mounting
plate to the floor.
5 The seat outer slide channel is secured to
floor with two No. 10 countersunk screws,
washers and self locking nuts.
6
Replace in reverse order.
Unhook adjuster lever return spring.
Figure 1
Front seats
Front seat
2 frame
3 Front leg
4 Arm. adjuster
5 End cap. arm
6 Spring. adjuster
7 Rivet. front leg
8 Spacing washer
9 Lockwasher
10 Rivet. adjus ter
11 Retaining cap
12 Spring. squab
13 Chp. spring
14 Padding. cushion
15 Padding. squab
16 Cover. cushion
17 Cover. squab
18 Clip. cover to frame
19 Clip. cover to frame
20 Mounting plate. seat
21 Rivet. adjuster
22 Lockwasher. adjuster
23 Backing plate. mounting plate
24 Saddle clip
25 Packing plate. clip
26 Se t screw. plate
27 Lockwasher. plate
28 Nut. plate
29 Screw. mounting plate
30 Coachwasher. mounting plate
31 Nut. mounting plate
32 Channel. seat slide
33 Screw. channel to body
34 Washer. channel to body
35 Nut. channel to body
The interior
Section R
T o dism ant le f r ont seats
The front seat has been designed so that the
cushion and squab covers. including padding,
can be replaced if damaged. Although it would
not normally be necessary to dismantle the seat
completely full details are as follows:
1 Remove two retaining washers, rivets and
spacers and disconnect front leg from seat
frame.
2 Disconnect adjuster lever from front leg by
removing retaining washer and rivet.
3 Remove retaining clips securing squab
cover to the seat frame and then pull cover up
over squab padding and frame.
4 To detach cushion cover first remove
retaining clips and then peel the cover flaps
from the seat frame. Remove padding .
5 The squab and cushion support springs can
then be removed, if necessary, by holding the
side of the frame, stretching the springs and
releasing the retaining clips.
6 Replace in reverse order taking note of the
following points:
Before fitting the cushion padding and cover
clean all traces of adhesive from the frame.
Apply Bostik 1 GA 516 adhesive, or equivalent,
to the cushion cover flaps. The cushion and
Figure 2
Seat belts
2
squab cover flaps should be kept as taut as
possible when replacing the retaining clips.
Seat belts
In accordance with present regulations all Robin
vehicles have seat belts fitted to both driver and
passenger seats, incorporating a single hand
type clasp.
If the seat belt shows signs of severe fraying,
having been cut, or having been severely
stressed during an accident. the belt must be
replaced.
To remove (see Fig u re 2)
1 Remove ~ UN F bolt and lockwasher and
detach lap strap belt mounting from floor.
2 Prise plastic plug from shoulder strap
belt mounting. remove
UNF bolt and
lockwasher. and detach seat belt.
n
3 Remove ~ UNF nut, complete with
lockwasher and detach seat belt safety catch
and arm from drive shaft tunnel mounting .
4
Replace in reverse order.
Rear seat, ·saloon and van
The back of the rear seat folds down to give an
The interior
3
Section R
estate size floor area. The seat back is secured
in the upright position by means of rubber
retaining straps looped over brackets mounted
on the body sides. To fold down the seat. first
unhook the tonneau cover from the rear of the
vehicle (fitted on Saloon only), lift up the rear
seat cushion and release the seat back retaining
straps. The seat back can now be lowered. Fold
up the tonneau cover against the seat cushion.
To remove (see Figure 3)
1 Unscrew five tapit fixings securing cushion
flap to body. Remove seat cushion.
2 Unhook tonneau cover from the rear of the
vehicle and then release seat back retaining straps.
3 Using a 5·56mm (-nin) dia. drill remove the
heads off the rivets securing seat back board
hinges to the body.
4 Tap out rivet shafts and remove rear seat back
assembly from the vehicle.
The backboard/squab and seat cushion of the
rear seat are available as assemblies only and,
Figure 3
therefore, further dismantling is not
recommended.
The backboard retaining straps, however can
be replaced by detaching the fixing clamp,
secured to the backboard by two No. 6 cross
head screws.
The two abutment brackets which support the
seat backboard when in the raised position are
secured to the body with two No. 10 UNF
countersunk screws.
5 Replace rear seat and components in reverse
order. Secure backboard hinges to the floor
with six 4·76 x 16·51 mm (0·188 x 0·65in)
rivets.
Carpets and interior trim
T o remove (see Figure 4)
The floor carpets are secured by press stud
fasteners. The seats shou ld be removed
complete with mounting plates and slide
Rear seat
1 Cover. cushio n
2 Padding. cushion
3 Retaining strip
4 Fixings. cushion
5 Squab assembly
6 Tonneau cover
7 Fixing strip. tonneau
8 Screw. tonneau
9 Strap. tonneau retaining
10 Clomp, strap
11 Screw. strap
1 2 Abutment. squab support
13 Spacer. abutment
14 Screw. abutment
1 5 Bracket. tonneau
16 Rivet bracket
17 Rivet. squab hinge
The interior
Figure 4
Section R
Interior trim
4
The interior
5
Section R
channels to facilitate easy removal and
replacement of the floor carpets. When replacing
any of the trim carpets that are ahered to the
body all traces of the original adhesive should
be removed to ensure a good base for the new
carpet.
Headlining (saloon)
3 Ensuring the headlining is central to the
vehicle roof, temporarily tack the cloth to the
windscreen weatherstrip body lip using spire
clips.
4 Apply adhesive to the rear edge of the
headlining and tack to rear window aperture
with spire clips.
Note: During this operation the headlining
should be kept as taut as possible.
To remove (see Figure 4)
1 Disconnect battery.
2 Remove windscreen, rear quarterlights,
weatherstrips, rear window complete with
hinges, rear window seal, and rear quarter
trim fillets.
3 Remove rear view mirror, interior lamp and
sun visors.
5 Apply adhesive to the R.H. edge of the
headlining, fit listing rods into the retainers, and
tack headlining to door aperture and rear
quarterlight aperture, again using spire clips.
6 Repeat operation for L.H. side ensuring the
headlining is kept taut.
7
Trim excess material from headlining.
4 Remove door aperture seals and peel down
the top section of R.H. and L.H. 'A' post and
'8' post trim covers.
8 Leave the vehicle for a few minutes to
enable the adhesive to take and then remove
spire clips.
5 Peel headlining from door aperture and
window aperture.
9 Using a light coating of adhesive refit the
top of R.H. and L.H. 'A' post and '8' post trim
covers over headlining.
6 Starting from the rear of the vehicle spring
the five listing rods from the retainers.
7
Remove headlining from the vehicle.
8
Withdraw listing rods from the headlining.
Note: The five rods vary in length, therefore to
ensure correct replacement it is advisable to
mark them.
10
Replace door seals.
11
Locate rear quarter trim fillets, replace rear
window seal, rear window and rear
quarterlights and windscreen.
12 Refit sun visors, interior lamp and rear
view mirror.
13
Reconnect battery.
To replace
1 Thread the listing rods in the correct order
into the new headlining.
Headlining (van)
2 Starting from the front apply contact
adhesive to the edge of the headlining.
To remove (see Figure 4)
1 Disconnect battery.
Figure 4
Interior trim
Insulation. bulkhead side R.H.
2 Insulation. bulkhead side LH.
3 Insulation. bulkhead centre upper
4 Insulation. bulkhead centre lower
5 Carpet. propshaft tunnel
6 Carpet. engine side cover R.H.
7 Carpet. engine side cover LH.
8 Carpet, footwell side R.H.
9 Carpet. footwell side L.H.
10 Carpet. heelboard
11 Carpet. front footwell R.H.
12 Carpet. front footwell L.H.
13 Stud. carpet to body
14 Rivet. carpet to body
15 Carpet. rear footwell R.H.
16 Carpet. rear footwell L.H.
17 Carpet. R.H. side rear footwell R.H.
18 Carpet. LH. side rear footwell R.H.
20 Carpet. L.H. side rear footwell LH.
21 Carpet. rear compartment
22 Pronged ring
23 Socket ring
24 Trim cover 'A' post R. H.
25 Trim cover 'A' post LH.
26 Trim cover 'B' post R.H.
27 Trim cover 'B' post L.H.
28 Trim fillet. rear quarter R.H.
29 Trim fill'lt. rear quarter L.H.
30 Trim panel. rear quarter R.H.
31 Trim panel, armrest side R.H.
32 Trim panel, rear seat pan
33 Armrest R.H.
34 Screw
35 Cupwasher
36 Headlining
37 Listing rod, headlining No 1 and 2'
39 Listing rod. headlining No. 4
40 Listing rod. headlining No. 5
41 Retainer. listing rod
42 Bracket. No. 4 listing rod
43 Rivet
44 Rearview mirror
45 Screw
46 Insert
47 Sun visor. plain
48 Sun visor, c/w vanity mirror
49 Screw, visor
50 Insert. visor
51 Ash tray
52 Screw
53 Glove. steering wheel
54 Grommet, gear lever
55 Anti-draught pad, handbrake
The interior
6
Section R
2 Remove windscreen, weatherstrip, and side
door seals.
4
Remove gear lever knob.
3 Remove rear view mirror, interior lamp and
sun visors.
5 Remove two No. 8 screws securing rear of
centre console to driveshaft tunnel. Then lift
centre console, complete with gaiter, over gear
lever.
4 Peel down top section of 'A' post trim
covers.
6
Remove steering wheel (see Section D).
7
Remove multiswitch (see Section T).
5 Spring the two headlining listing rods from
the retainers.
6 Withdraw listing rods from headlining and
mark to ensure correct replacement.
To replace
1 Thread the listing rods in the correct order,
into the new headlining.
2 Starting from the front apply contact
adhesive to the edge of the headlining.
3 Ensuring the headlining is central to the
vehicle roof, temporarily tack the cloth·to the
windscreen aperture using spire clips.
8 Remove clamping bracket securing steering
column to fascia.
9 Disconnect instruments and switches (see
Section T).
10
Remove radio, if fitted (see Section V).
11 Remove two No. 8 screws securing centre
of fascia to engine bulkhead.
12 Remove single No. 8 countersunk screw
securing centre of fascia top to body.
13 Remove single bolt securing R.H. and L.H.
side of fascia to body.
4 Apply adhesive to the rear edge of the
headlining and fit over roof moulding. The
headlining should be kept as taut as possible.
14 The fascia can now be removed from the
vehicle.
5 Apply adhesive to R.H. edge of headlining,
fit listing rods into retainers and tack cloth to
door aperture, again using spire clips.
To replace
1 Locate the fascia and secure to the body at
the five fixing points.
6 Repeat operation for L.H. side ensuring the
headlining is kept taut.
2
Reconnect instruments and switches.
3
Refit radio, if fitted.
7
Trim excess material from headlining.
8 Allow the adhesive to take and then remove
spire clips.
9 Using a light coating of adhesive fit top of
R.H. and L.H. 'A' post trim covers over
headlining.
10
Replace door seals and windscreen.
11 Refit sun visors, interior lamp and rear
view mirror.
12
Reconnect battery.
Fascia and centre console
To remove (see Figure 5)
1 Disconnect battery.
2
Remove windscreen (see Section Q).
3 Press in retaining lugs, remove heater and
choke Knobs from centre console.
4 Secure steering column clamping bracket
to base of fascia.
5
Refit multiswitch and cover.
6
Refit steering wheel.
7
Refit centre console.
8
Refit gear lever knob.
9
Refit heater and choke control knobs.
10
Refit windscreen.
11
Reconnect battery.
The interior
Figure 5
Section R
7
Fascia and centre console
1 Fascia
2 Bol t. fascsa to body
3 Screw. fascia to body
4 Insert fascia to body
5 Screw, fascia to body
6 Centre console
7 Screw
8 Insert
9 Fasica backing plato
10 Rivet
11 Cover. multi-swstch
12 Clamp plate
13 Set screw
14 Lockwasher
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
The interior
1
Section R
Fascia and cent re console
W ith the introduction of the Robin 850, new
fascia side to body fixings have been
introduced.
The new fixings comprise of two each, bolts,
plain washers, lockwashers, nuts and spacing
washers. When removing the fascia, access to
the fixings can be gained by removing a black
plastic grommet in the side door aperture
( Figure 1 ) .
Figure 1
Fascia and centre console
1 Fascia
2 Bolt. fascia to body
3 Washer. fasc1a to body
4 Lockwasher. fascia to body
5 Washer. fasc1a to body
6 Nut. fascia to body
7 Blankmg grommet
8 Screw. fascia to body
9 Insert. fascia to body
10 Screw. fascia to body
11 Centre console
12 Screw. console to body
13 Insert. console to body
14 M ulti-sw itch cover
15 Clamp plate
1 6 Set screw. cover to body
17 Lockwasher. cover to body
•r
SectionS
Heating and ventilation system
To remove heater 1
Heater control valve 2
Heater matrix 2
Heater motor and fan 2
Heater box 2
Heating and ventilation system
SectionS
Descripti on
To remove heater (see Figure 1)
The heater is of the fresh air type and is
mounted on the body in the forward end of the
engine compartment.
1 Slacken retaining clips and remove water
inlet and outlet hoses from heater unit. There
w ill be a slight water loss during this operation.
Water from the main coolant system is fed to a
control valve on the heater via a hose from the
cylinder head. Warm air is produced and forced
by an electric fan to the windscreen demister
vents and adjustable footwall outlets via flexible
9ucting tubes.
2 Disconnect footwall, demister and fresh air
ducting tubes from heater.
For the summer months the heater ca n be shut
off f rom the main system to provide a cool air
supply, by means of the control valve operated
by a knob on the fascia.
In addition, an adjustable f resh air vent is located
on the centre of the fascia to provide a constant
cool air supply, if required.
Figure 1
3 Slacken trunnion and cable support clamp
and disconnect heater control cable from water
control valve.
4
Disconnect heater leads.
5 Unscrew fou r tapit fixings, complete with
nylon spacing washers and remove heater unit.
Note position of battery lead clips.
6 Replace in reverse order and top up the
cooling system, if necessary.
Heater
1 Case
2 Radiator
3 Valve
4 Seal. valve to heater
5 Screw. valve to heater
6 Lockwasher. va lve to heater
7 Nut. valve to heater
8 Clamp
12 Fan
13 Screw. fan to motor
14 Nut. motor to case
16 Water hose. cylinder head
16 Water hose. valve to pump
17 Clip. hoses
18 Adaptor. water co nnection
19 Air hose. footwall R.H.
23 Push/pull control
24 Trunnion. cable to valve
26 Screw. cable to valve
26 Demister
27 Rivet. demister
28 Grommet. heater pipes
29 Fastener
30 Seal
1
Heating and ventilation system
Section S
Heater control valve
If signs of leaking are apparent around the
operating plunger of the control valve this
would indicate a faulty diaphragm and a new
valve will have to be fitted.
To remove
1 Disconnect heater hose and control cable
from control valve.
Remove 136 UNF bolt, two nuts, complete
with lockwashers, and lift control valve from
heater box seating. Check condition of sealing
ring and replace if necessary.
2
3
Replace new valve in reverse order,
reconnect control cable and adjust.
Heater matrix
To remove
1 Remove heater, as previously described.
2
Drill the head off the rivet securing heater
matrix fixing clamp to the heater. Tap out rivet
shaft and remove clamp.
3
Remove matrix from heater box.
4
Replace new matrix in reverse order securing
matrix fixing clamp to heater box with a suitable
rivet.
Heater motor and fan
To remove
1 Remove heater, as previously described.
2 Using an allen key through fresh air hose
aperture, remove grub screw and withdraw fan
blade from motor spindle.
3 Unscrew two retaining nuts and lockwashers
and remove motor from heater box.
4
Replace motor and fan in reverse order.
Heater box
To remove
1 Remove heater as previously described.
2
Remove control valve, heater matrix, arid
motor and fan.
3
Replace in reverse order.
2
Section T
Electrics
Ignition system 2
Distributor 2
Contact breaker points 2
Distributor condensor 3
Ignition timing 3
Starting system 6
Starter motor 6
Charging system 7
Alternator 7
Lighting system 11
Headlamps 12
Front indicator lamps 14
Stop tail, rear indicator lamps 15
Number plate lamp 15
tnt~rior lamp 15
General electrics system 18
Battery 18
Fuses 20
Coil 20
Starter solenoid 20
Sparking plugs 20
Horn 20
Windscreen wiper motor 20
Instruments and switches 22
~iring diagram 25
Electrics
Section T
1
Col our Codes
Colour
Letter
R
Red
w
White
Green
G
B
Black
y
Yellow
Slate
u
Blue
p
Purple
Light Green
LG
Brown
N
0
Orange
Pink
K
s
R
2
3
6
Figu re 1
Electrics, ignition system
Battery
2 Starter solenoid
3 Fuse unit
4 Ignition switch
6 Coil
6 Distributor
Electri cs
Section T
2
Igniti on system
The ignition system comprises battery, ignition
switch, coil, distributor and sparking plugs as
shown in Figure 1 .
If trouble is experienced with the ignition the
components shown in Figure 1 should be
systematically checked to diagnose the fault.
Particu lar attention should be given to the
cleanliness and security of the earth braids. for
if after inspecting the various electrical
components the ignition system still fails to
function correctly, a loose braid cou ld be the
cause.
The distributor is described in full below but for
details of the other ignition system components
refer to the General Electrics on page 18.
P1062
Distributor
D escriptio n
The distributor is mounted on the R.H . side of
the cylinder block and is driven by an offset dog
from t he camshaft. Ignition advance is
mechanically controlled, according to engine
speed, by governor weights inside the distributor
body. Distributor rotation is anti -clockwise
viewed from above.
Lubric atio n
The cam and contact breaker plate pivots and
bushings, when assembling after overhaul.
should be lubricated with petroleum jelly. The
cam spindle governor weights and breaker arm
pivots should be lubricated with engine oil every
3,000 miles (5,000km) . To lubricate cam spindle
remove the rotor and apply two drops of oil
through the apertures in the breaker plate. On ly
a film of engine oi l should be applied to the
breaker arm pivot. ensuring that none
contaminates the distributor poi nts.
Caution: Do not over lubricate any part of the
distributor.
The presence of dirt, oil or water on the
ignition points, the central carbon brush, or on
the contact segments in the distributor cover,
will cause erratic running or may even prevent
the engine from running at al l.
Figure 2
Distributor
1 Distributor
2 Cover
3 Rotor arm
4 Capacitor
5 Contact set
6 Sealing washer
7 Screw
8 Washer
9 Lockwasher
3 Slacken the slotted head screw '4' in the
contact plate (see Figure 3) and adjust unti l
t he gap is 0·38mm (0 ·015in).
4 Retighten the screw and make a further
check in case tightening t he screw has altered
the setting.
5 Reposition the rotor arm squarely on the
distributor cam boss with the slot and lug
in line. Press the rotor into position so that the
lower face abuts the cam.
To r emo ve
1 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Remove the slotted head screw securing
the breaker arm and the hexagon nut securing
the primary and condenser lead tags (see
Figure 3) .
Contact brea ker points
To adjust
1 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Tu rn t he engine so that the heel of the
contact breaker is on the highest point of the
cam. (It may be necessary to remove the
sparking plugs to eliminate the resistance caused
by compression .)
3 Lift off the two tags and remove the breaker
arm point assembly from the distributor.
Check the condition of the points for signs of
wear or burning on t he contacts. If this is
apparent. the complete breaker arm assembly
w ill need replacing. Contacts showing a greyish
colour and only slightly pitted need not be
renewed. If necessary, contacts can be smoothed
Electrics
Section T
3
3 Remove the crosshead screw and lift
condenser from the contact breaker plate.
4 Replace in reverse order, checking that there
is no possibility of a short circuit between the
condenser lead and the breaker plate.
Note: Dismantling of the complete distributor
is not recommended as only the cover, rotor arm,
condenser and contact set are available as
spares.
To remove distributor from the engine
1 Disconnect spark plug leads from the plug
terminals.
2 Remove the high and low tension leads
from the coil.
Figure 3
Contact breaker adjustment
1 Contact breaker points
2 Pivot post
3 Terminal pillar
4 Locking adjustment screw
with a very fine emery stone and then
thoroughly cleaned w ith carbon -tetrachloride.
3 Unscrew single i UNC bolt, complete w ith
washer and lockwasher, securing distributor
clamp to cylinder block and remove distributor.
Do not disturb the clamping bolt securing the
distributor unless the ignition timing is to be
adjusted.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Ignition timing
To replace
1 Position the breaker arm assembly on the
pivot pin and locate the primary and condenser
lead tags on the nylon screw, which is secured
to the breaker arm spring.
2 Refit the hexagon nut to the nylon screw
to secure the two tags.
Incorrect ignition timing can cause rough
running, bad idling, high fuel consumption and
poor performance. It is, therefore, important it
should be correctly set. In order to facilitate the
timing two marks are stamped on the
crankshaft pulley face (see Figure 4) . A pointer
is located on the timing cover.
3 Replace the slotted head screw and adjust
the contact breaker points as previously
described.
The timing on vehicles fitted w ith the 301Z
carburettor is TDC and vehicles with the 30 IZE
carburettor 10° BTDC.
4
Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap.
Two methods for obtaining correct ignition
timing are described as follows:
Distributor condenser
The condenser is fitted in parallel to the contact
breaker points. A short circuit in the condenser
will cause ignition fai lure as the contact points
will no longer interrupt the low tension circuit.
In such cases the condenser will need replacing.
A n open circuit, however, cannot be readily
checked w ithout the use of specialised
equipment such as a Diagnosis Test Set. The
usual signs of this are excessively burnt contact
breaker points and difficult starting.
To remove the condenser
1 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Unscrew the hexagon nut and remove the
primary and condenser lead tags from the
nylon screw.
Method 1
1 Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction
until the TDC/1 0 ° BTDC (depending on
carburettor type) pulley mark is aligned with
the pointer on the t iming cover (see Figure 4).
2 Remove distributor cap and connect a
12 volt bulb between the lower tension
terminals of the distributor and a good earth .
With the battery connected and ignition switched
on, t he bulb w ill light when the contact breaker
points open.
3 Slacken the distributor clamp bolt and
rotate the distributor anti-clockwise as far as
possible.
4
Switch on the ignition and applying light
4
Electrics Section T
finger pressure to the rotor arm, turn distributor
body back unti l the bulb just lights.
5
Retighten distributor clamp bolt.
6 Check the setting by rotating the
crankshaft two revolutions clockwise until the
bulb again lights observing the relative positions
of the pointers. The TDC/ 10° BTDC pulley
mark must be aligned with the pointer on the
timing cover.
7
Switch off ignition, disconnect bulb and
refit all parts.
Method 2- Using a timing light
Connect the leads of the timing light in
accordance with the manufacturers instructions.
1
1117
2 Check that the TDC/1 0° BTDC mark on
the pulley is visible and mark with chalk or
paint.
3
Aim the timing light at the upper pointer,
on the timing cover. Check that the TDC/ 10°
BTD C pulley mark is aligned with the timing
cover pointer.
4
•
Figure 4
.2
Ignition timing marks
1 Timing pointer
2 TDC mark
3 1 0° BTDC mark
If the pulley mark is to the left of the timing
point the engine is too advanced. Slacken
distributor clamping bolt and turn distributor
body clockwise sligt'ltly to retard the ignition.
Should the mark be above the correct timing
mark the distributor body should be turned
anti-clockwise to slightly advance the ignition.
4
Securely tighten the distributor clamp bolt.
Distributor specification
Type
Drive
Rotation
Firing order
Ignition advance
Static advance
Breaker arm spring tension
Condenser capacity
Contact breaker point gap
Dwell angle
Single pair contact breaker point
Dog gear from camshaft
Anti -clockwise
1, 3, 4, 2
Centrifugal
i ooBTDC (30 IZE carburettor)
TDC (30 IZ carburettor)
51 0-680g (18-24oz)
0·2
0·396mm (0·015in)
60°±3°
Electrics
4a
Section T
Introduction
From engine number 7942 the 750cc engine has
incorporated a different distributor to that
described on pages 2 to 4.
The service recommendations for this new
distributor are as follows:
Lu brication of distributor
The cam and contact breaker plate pivots and
bushing, when assembling after overhaul, should
be lubricated with Shell Retinax 'A' or an
equivalent grease. The cam spindle governer
weights and breaker arm pivot should be
lubricated with engine oil every 3,000 miles
(5,000 km). To lubricate the cam spindle
remove the rotor and apply two drops of oil to
the felt pad in the top of the cam. The felt pad
fitted to the contact breaker, augments
lubrication of the cam. This does not require
periodic lubrication, as it is impregnated before
fitting. Only a film of engine oil should be
applied to the hollow breaker arm pivot post,
ensuring tha\ none contaminates the distributor
points.
1 Distributor
2 Cover
3 Rotor arm
4 Condenser
5 Contact set
6 Screw
7 Washer
8 Lockwasher
Caution : Do not over lubricate any part of the
distributor. The presence of dirt, oil or water on
the ignition points, the central carbon brush,
or in the contact segments in the distributor
cover, will cause erratic running or may even
prevent the engine from running at all.
Contact breaker points
To adjust
1 Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Turn the engine so that the heel of the
contact breaker is on the highest point of the
cam. (It may be necessary to remove sparking
plugs to eliminate the resistance cau!ied by
compression.)
3 Slacken the slotted headed screw ( Figure
4b) in the contact plate and adjust until the gap
is 0.38mm (0.015in). The gap is measured with
a suitable feel er gauge and pressure should be
applied to the points, with the feeler gauge
inserted between them, whilst the screw is
being t ightened.
4 Retighten the screw and make a further
check with the feeler gauge in case tightening
the screw has altered the settings.
5 Reposition the rotor arm squa rely on the
distribu tor cam boss with the slot and lug in
line. Press the rotor into position on the spindle.
Note : When the rotor is fitted to the spindle the
lower face does not abut the cam.
Figure 4a Distributor, engine number 7942
onwards
Removal and examination of
contact breaker points
1
Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Press the terminal end of the moving-contact
spring towards the cam. ( Figur e 4c) . This will
disengage the spring from the insulating-piece
attached to the terminal post, the capacitor lead
and low tension fly-lead can then be detached
from the folded end of the spring. Remove the
slotted screw securing the fixed-contact and lift
the contact- breaker from the base plate.
3 Check the condition of the points for signs of
wear or burning on the contact. If this is
apparent, the complete breaker arm assembly
will need replacing. Contacts showing a greyish
Electrics
Figu re 4b
Section T
Contact breaker adjustment
Fixed contact securing screw
2 Felt lubrication pad in cam
3 Breaker arm pivot post
4 Terminal post
5 Condenser/ L.T. fly lead grommet
4b
Figure 4c
Removal of contact breaker points
1 Folded end of moving contact spring
2 LT. fly lead {black)
3 Condenser lead {orange)
4 LT. terminal
5 Cable clips
6 Terminal post
7 Nylon insulating piece
8 Fixed contact securing screw
colour and only slightly pitted need not be
renewed. If necessary, contacts can be smoothed
with a very fine emery stone and then thoroughly
cleaned with carbon tetrachloride.
To replace
1 When refitting or replacing the contact
breaker set it is important to note that the
capacitor and low tension fly -lead connecting
terminal in the folded end of the moving -contact
spring, has the cable clips facing outwards,
otherwise the lower clip may foul the fixed
contact plate and short-ci rcuit the contactbreaker. ( Figure 4d.)
2 Replace the slotted head screw and adjust
the contact breaker points as previously
described.
N o t e: If a new contact set is fitted, set the
contact gap to 0·40 to 0 ·45mm (0·016 to
0·018in) . To allow for initial bedding-in of the
plastic heel.
3
Replace the rotor arm and distributor cap.
Distributor condenser
The condenser is fitted in parallel to the contact
breaker points. A short circuit in the condenser
will cause ignition failure as the contact points
will no longer interrupt the low tension circuit.
In such cases the condenser will need replacing.
Figure 4d Correct replacement of moving
contact spring and L.T. terminal.
Electrics
4c
Section T
An open circuit, however, cannot be readily
checked without the use of specialised
equipment such as a Diagnosis Test Set. The
usual signs of this are excessively burnt contact
breaker points and difficult starting.
To remove the condenser
1
Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.
2 Remove the distributor point set as previously
described.
3 Remove the cross head screw and lift the
condenser from the contact breaker plate.
4 The condenser, condenser lead, low tension
terminal and low tension fly-lead, is a complete
assembly. The fly-lead complete with grommet
and insulated lucar terminal should be
withdrawn through the hole in the distributor
body. (See Figure 4b.)
5 Replace in reverse order, checking that there
is no possibility of a short circuit between the
condenser lead terminal and the contact breaker
plate.
Note: Dismantling of the complete distributor is
not recommended as only the cover, rotor arm,
condenser and leads assembly, and contact
breaker set are available as spares
Distributor specification
Direction of rotation
Anti -clockwise
Firing angle
0 to 90°- 180° - 270° -or ± 1 o
Dwell angle (closed-contact period)
51°or±5°
Contact-breaker gap
0·38mm (0·015in) 0·40 to 0·45mm (0·16 to
0·018in) initial setting for new contact set.
Contact breaker spring loading (measured
at contacts)
522 to 680gf ( 18 to 24 ozf)
Capacitor
0·18 to 0·25 microfarads
Clamping plate tightening torques
34·59kg.cm (301b.in) trapped bolt and
rotating nut.
57·66kg.cm (501b.in) trapped nut and
rotating bolt.
Electrics
5
Section T
Colour Codes
Letter
Colour
Red
R
w
White
Green
G
Black
B
y
Yellow
Slate
Blue
u
p
Purple
Light Green
LG
N
Brown
Orange
0
K
Pink
s
R
2
4
Figure 5
Electrics, starting system
Electrics
Section T
6
Starting system
The starting system comprises battery, ignition
switch, solenoid and starter motor, as shown
in Figure 5.
If the starter fails to operate when the ignition
is switched on the components in Figure 5
should be systematically checked to diagnose
the fau lt. Examine the starter pinion which may
be jamming in mesh with the flywheel ring gear.
It can be released by turning the squared end
of the pinion shaft in an anti-clockwise direction.
Check that t he battery is in a good state of
charge and the terminals free from corrosion.
The condition and security of the earth braids
is also important. The starter solenoid could also
be at fault. When the ignition is switched on the
starter motor pinion makes a distinct sound
when meshing with the flywheel ring gear and
if this is not apparent, a faulty solenoid could
be indicated.
If the components of the starting system are
found to be functioning correctly this wou ld
indicate that the fault lies in the ignition or
charging systems (see Figure 1 and Figure 7) .
The starter motor and testing procedure is
described below but for details of the other
starting system components refer to the General
Electrics on page 18.
Starter motor
Figure 6
Starter motor
P. 1061
1 Starter motor
2 Bolt
3 Washer
4 Lockwasher
5 Nut
Bench testing
Remove the commutator end cover from the
motor and check the brushes for wear and
replace if necessary.
Measuring light running current
Clamp the motor in a vice and, using a 12 volt
battery, with a moving coil ammeter of suitable
range, check the light running current and the
armature speed. Always use heavy gauge cable
for connecting the apparatus.
Description
The starte~ motor is a four pole, four brush
machine with inertia drive and is secured in the
R.H . side to the rear engine plate and gearbox
bell housing.
To remove starter motor (see Figure 6)
1 Disconnect battery.
2
Under these light load conditions, the starter
motor should run freely with a running current
of 65 amps at 8,000-1 0,000 rpm. The test only
proves whether the motor is functioning
correctly when not under its normal operating
load. If, on replacing the motor, it again fails to
crank the engine, an internal fault is indicated
and a new motor will have to be fitted.
Remove oi l filter.
3 Disconnect starter motor lead and remove
two i UN F bolts, washers, lockwashers and
hexagon nuts securing the motor to the rear
engine plate and bell housing.
4
Remove starter motor from the vehicle.
5
Replace in reverse order.
Starter motor specification
lock torque
Running torque (at 1,000 rpm)
light running current
Brush spring pressure
0·97kg m (7·01b ft) at 350 amps
0·61 kg m (4·41b ft) at 260 amps
65 amps at 8,000-10,000 rpm
800g (28oz)
Electrics
7
Section T
Charging system
The charging system comprises the battery,
alternator and ignition warning light as shown
in Figure 7.
It is important that the charging system is kept
in good working order for the ignition, starting
and lighting systems depend upon it. These
systems will be rendered inoperative if the
battery is in an extremely low state of charge.
The electrolyte level in the battery should be
regularly checked and topped up if necessary.
Keep the battery terminals clean and tight.
The correct fan belt tension is important. A slack
belt will slip and prevent the alternator charging
the battery to its full capacity.
Attention should also be given to the cleanliness
and security of the earth leads.
The ignition warning light serves the dual
purpose of reminding the driver to switch off the
ignition, and acting as a no-charge indicator.
With the ignition switched on the warning light
should only be illuminated when the engine is
not running, or is idling at a very low speed.
As the engine speed increases the light should
dim and go out. Failure to do so indicates a
fault in the charging system.
The alternator is described in full in the following
text but for details of the other charging system
components refer to the General Electrics on
page 18.
Alternator
Description
The alternator is a 12 pole, two brush machine
and is driven by a belt from the crankshaft
pulley. To ventilate the interior components a
multi-bladed fan is fitted behind the alternator
pulley.
The brushgear is enclosed in a moulding
screwed to the slip ring end bracket thus giving
protection against the adverse affects of dust
and moisture.
Voltage control is achieved by a Model 14TR
microcircuit voltage regulator built into the
slip-ring end bracket.
A normal type of charge indicator (warning)
light system is used in conjunction with this
alternator. The warning light is connected in
series with the 'field' supply diodes and is
extinguished when the generated voltage at the
diodes side of the light equals that at the
battery side.
The only attention the alternator is likely to
require is the occasional changing of the
commutator bushgear. Remove alternator cover,
unscrew two 4BA bolts and lift brushbox
moulding from slip ring end bracket. Check
whether brushes and slip rings are free of oil or
grease. If necessary, the brushes and springs
can be cleaned with a petrol moistened cloth.
Check brush and spring assemblies for freedom
of movement in the brushbox moulding. If the
overall length of the brushes have worn to
7·62mm (0·30in) the brush and spring
assemblies will have to be removed and replaced.
Wipe away any dirt or oil which may collect
around the slip ring end cover ventilating
apertures. The bearings are packed with grease
during assembly and do not require attention.
Note: Serious damage can occur to the
alternator if the following points are not
observed:
1 Ensure that the negative terminal of the
battery is earthed. Reversed cable connections
will burn out the alternator diodes.
2 Never earth the output (B+) terminal of
the alternator. It should be connected directly
with the battery positive terminal.
3 Always disconnect the battery earth cable
at the battery before removing the alternator or
its connecting wires. Serious damage to the
wiring harness and the alternator can result
from accidentally earthing the output terminal.
4 Never attempt to operate with the output
lead between the battery and output terminal
disconnected. A very high voltage will develop
which could burn out the rotor or damage the
diodes.
5 When the battery is to be recharged in the
car, disconnect both battery cables before
connecting a charger.
6 When a slave battery is used to start the
engine, ensure the leads are connected correctly,
i.e. positive to positive, negative to negative.
Testing the alternator
First check the driving belt for condition and
tension. The nominal hot ratings are given in
the specification at the end of this section.
These figures may be exceeded slightly when
the alternator is running cold. To avoid
misleading results, the following test procedure
should therefore be carried out with the
alternator running as near to its normal operating
temperature as possible.
Alternator output test
1 Withdraw the two-part connector from the
Electrics
8
Section T
Colour Codes
Colour
Red
w
White
G
Green
B
Black
y
Yellow
Slate
u
Blue
p
Purple
LG
Light Green
N
Brown
0
Orange
K
Pink
Letter
R
s
3
Figure 7
Battery
') AlrP.rnAinr
Electrics, charging circuit
3 Fuse Unit
5 Ignition switch
4
A f:nmhinAti i n $;.trl tmAnl
RAttAN r:nnrUttnn inrh r..A tnr
Electri cs
9
Section T
alternator, remove the moulded cover (secured
by two screws) and link together regulator
terminals 'F' and '- '.
2 Connect an external test circuit as shown
in Figure 9.
Observe carefully the polarity of battery and
alternator terminals - reversed connections w ill
damage the alternator diodes.
The variable resistor across the battery terminals
must not be left connected for longer than is
necessary to carry out the following test.
Fig ure 8
3 Start the engine. At 1,500 alternator rev/min,
the test circuit bulb should be extinguished.
Increase engine speed until the alternator is
running at 6,000 rev/ min approximately, and
adjust the variable resistance unti l the voltmeter
reads 14·0 volts. The ammeter reading should
then be approximately equal to the rated output.
Any appreciable deviation from this figure
would indicate an internal fault and the
alternator, available as an assembly only, will
have to be replaced.
Alternator
1 Alternator
2 Strap
3 Bolt
4 Washer
5 Lockwasher
6 Spacer
7 Bolt
8 Lockwasher
9 Washer
10 Nut
11 Bolt
12 Washer
13 Lockwasher
14 Nut
15 Sp acer
T o r emove alternator (see Figure 8)
1 Disconnect battery and alternator cables.
2 Slacken the alternator securing bolts and
tilt the unit forward.
3
Remove fan belt.
4 Remove securing bolts and detach alternator
from the engine.
5
Replace in reverse order.
+
B+
Figure 9
Electrics, alternator output test circuit
1 Live side output diodes (3)
2 Earth side output diodes (3)
3 Field feed diodes (3)
4 Stator winding
5 Field winding
6 Slip - rings
7 Vol tage regulator
8 12 volt banery
9 0-40 or 0-60 ammeter
10 12 volt 2·2 watt bulb
11 0-20 voltmeter
12 0-15 ohms 35 amp variable resistor
13 Link bridging regulator terminals
T and·-·
Electrics
10
Section T
Alternator specification
Earth polarity of system
Nominal voltage
Nominal de output (hot) at 14·0 V and 6,000 rev/min
Max permissible rotor speed
Stator phases
Stator winding connection
Number of rotor poles
Resistance of rotor winding in ohms at 20~C
Brush spring tension
Negative only
12
28 amp 15 ACR
12,500 rev/min
3
Star
12
4·33 ±5%
255-368g (9-13oz) with brush face flush with
brush box housing
Electrics
11
Section T
system. It is, therefore, of the utmost
importance that this lead is kept clean and tight.
The condition of the battery earth lead and
engine earth strap, secured to the gearbox and
chassis is also important.
Lighting system
The lighting system comprises headlamps,
front indicators, rear stop tail/ indicators,
number plate lamp, battery, starter solenoid,
light switch and multi -switch, as shown in
Figure 10.
A single earth lead, secured to the R.H. front
engine mounting, earths the complete lighting
If any section of the lighting system fails to
function the condition and security of the earth
leads and straps described above should be
checked. A blown fuse could also be the cause
Colo ur Cod ea
Letter
Colour
R
Red
w
White
Green
G
B
Black
y
Yellow
Slate
s
u
Blue
p
Purple
UghtGreen
LG
N
Brown
Orange
0
Pink
K
Figure 10
Electrics, lighting system
1 Ba ttery
2 Starter solenoid
3 Fuse box
4 Switches
6 M ulti -switch
6 Speedometer
7 Headlamp
8 Fog and spot lamp
9 Front indicator lamp
10 Flasher unit
11 Interior lamp
12 Number pl ate l amp
13 Stop-tail and indicator lamp
Electrics
12
Secti on T
and can be confirmed on examination of the
fuse. Before renewing a blown fuse inspect the
applicable w iring for evidence of a short.
The lighting system is described in full below
but for details of the fuse box and lighting
system components refer to General Electrics
on page 18.
Headlamps (standard veh icles)
The headlamps on the standard Robin vehicles
are of the 'sealed beam' type, incorporating
the pilot lamps; the f ilament in the light unit
being sealed between the lens and reflector.
In the event of main beam or dipped beam
filament failure, the light unit must be replaced.
The pilot lamp bulb is of the 'capless' type, and
can be replaced in the event of failure.
Figure 11
To r em ove lamp unit (see Figure 11 )
1 The lamp unit rim is a 'clip-on' type. To
remove the rim, press the rim upwards and lever
outwards at the base of the lamp unit. The rim
is located by a spring clip at the base and two
lugs at the top of the unit.
2 Remove the three screws which secure the
inner rim to the seating rim, withdraw lamp unit.
3 The lamp unit can now be disconnected
from the cable connectors, either for replacement
or access to the pilot bulb.
T o replace
1 Fit the cable connector to the new lamp unit
and place the unit in the seating rim, correctly
locating the three projections on the rear of the
unit with the corresponding slots in the rim.
Headlamps
1- Light unit. sealed boam - standard
2 Pilot bulb. for sealed beam uni ts
1 Light uni t. (Q.H.). sealed beam super models
3 Glass/ reflector unit. alternative
4 Bulb (O.H.). for alternative Q.H. lamp
6 Pilot bulb. for alternative O.H. lamp
6 Bezel. clip on
7 Rim. light unit
8 Screw
10 Spring. rim
11 Screw, trimmer
12 Retainer
1 3 Body. headlamp
14 Gasket. body
Electrics
Section T
13
2 Replace inner rim and secure with the
three screws.
with the fuel tank approximately half full and
the tyres at the correct pressure.
3 Check the beam setting (see later text) and
then fit the front rim.
2 Position the vehicle on level ground 1Om
(32 ·8ft) from, and square to, a suitably
darkened screen.
Headlamps (super vehicles)
The Super Robin vehicles have Quartz Halogen
units fitted as standard equipment. The light unit
is removed in the same way as the standard unit.
4 Position the board also so that t he vertical
dividing line corresponds to the vertical centre
line of the vehicle.
The light units may be of the 'sealed beam' type
or of the 'separate bulb' type (see Figure 11 ) .
The sealed beam unit is identical to the standard
sealed beam unit and the previous information
applies. The bu lb type, however. although
secured in a similar manner is a metal/glass
reflector and has a separate quartz halogen bulb,
located in the reflector with a spring clip. The
pilot lamp is a separate bulb and is mounted in
the reflector with a push-in bulb holder.
When replacing the quartz halogen bu lb the
glass envelope MUST NOT be handled with
the fingers, always hold the bulb by the base.
If the envelope is handled it must be cleaned
with methylated spirit or the efficiency of the
unit wi ll be seriously affected.
Headlamp beam adjustment
It is recommended that a Lucas 'Beamsetter'
is used to ensure accurate beam adjustment.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the
correct procedure. If such equipment is not
available beam adjustment can be obtained by
the following method :
1 The vehicle should be at its kerbside
weight, with a person in the driving position,
3 Measure the height from the ground to the
centre of the headlamp and adjust the board so
that the dividing line 'H' marked on the board
corresponds w ith this height (see Figure 12) .
5 Switch on the headlamps on main beam
and cover up the R.H. headlamp.
6 The L.H . headlamp should be set until the
area of concentrated light (hot spot) is focused
just below ' H' on the aiming board, on the centre
line which is the centre of the L.H. headlamp,
as shown in Figure 12. Vertica l adjustment is
obtained with the 'top beam adjusting screw'
(1) Figure 13, and horizontal adjustment
screw (2) .
With the main beam correctly set, the dipped
beam will automatically be correctly set.
7
Repeat operation for R.H. headlamp.
Fog and spot lamps
Super vehicles have fog and spot lamps fitted
as standard equipment and are located under
the bumper section of the body. In the event of
light failu re the lamp bulb can be replaced.
To replace lamp bulb
1 Remove small bolt from the top of the lamp
body, release retaining clamp and withdraw
lens and reflector.
·
OF VEHICLE
LH.HEADLAMP
RH.HEADLAMP
H
CENTRE OF HIGH INTENSITY ZONE
MAIN BEAM
Figure 12
Headlamp alignment
Electrics
14
Section T
2 Remove hexagon nut, lockwasher and plain
washer securing lamp unit to body mounting.
3
Remove lamp unit and retain nylon spacer.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Front direction indicator lamps
The front indicator lamps are dependant on the
indicator switch (incorporated in the multiswitch) and the flasher unit secured to the R.H.
side of the engine compartment. Failure of one of
these will render both front and rear indicators
inoperative.
Figure 13
Access to the front indicator bulb is gained by
removing two screws and lifting the amber lens
f rom the base plate.
Headlamp adjustment
1 Vertica l beam adjuster
2 Horizontal beam adjuster
3 Inner rim securing screw
2 Prise out locking ring from reflector and
remove bulb.
To rem ove (see Figure 14)
1 Disconnect indicator lead from wiring
harness.
3 Fit new bulb and secure in position with
locking ring.
2 Remove two No. 10 UN F screws, complete
with lockwashers securing indicator base plate
to the body. Note position of earth lead.
4 Refit lens and reflector to lamp body and
secure with retaining clamp and bolt.
3
To remove lamp unit
1 Disconnect lamp unit wiring lead from snap
connector at main harness.
Fig ure 14
1 Len s
Front indicator lamp
4 Body
7 Nut
4
The indicator can now be withdrawn.
Replace in reverse order, ensuring the earth
lead is securely attached behind the outside
fixing nut.
Electrics Section T
15
Stop tail, rear indicator lamps
to the body, folding back the rubber flange of
the body and removing the glass lens.
Access to the bulbs of the rear lamp cluster is
obtained by removing two cross head screws
and lifting off the lens assembly from the lamp
body.
To remove (see Figure 16)
1 Remove bezel, glass lens and bulb.
2 Withdraw lamp body and disconnect leads
from wiring harness.
To remove (see Figure 15)
1 From underneath the vehicle disconnect the
rear lamp leads from the wiring harness.
3
2 Remove lens and release indicator and
stop/ tail bulbs to prevent possible damage
during next operation.
Interior lamp
The interior lamp is located above the rear view
mirror and has an integral switch within the
light unit. To gain access to the bulb remove the
lens by pressing on the sides and releasing the
spring securing lugs.
3 Unscrew four tappit fixings and remove rear
lamp unit from the body.
4 Replace in reverse order. Note: Before
refitting the unit it w ill be necessary to push the
nylon inserts back into the base of the lamp body
to close up the claws of the inserts.
Number plate lamp
Access to the bulb is gained by removing two
cross head screws, securing the chrome bezel
Figure 15
1 Lens
To remove (see Figure 16)
1 Disconnect battery. (The interior lamp circuit
is always live).
2 Remove two No. 8 screws, w ithdraw lamp
unit and disconnect lamp leads from wiring
harness.
Stop/tail indicator lamp
4 Bulb. indtcator
Replace in reverse order.
7 Lamp ftxings
P1069
Electrics
Section T
16
3 Replace in reverse order and reconnect
battery.
Figure 16
Number plate and interior lamp
1 Bezel
2 Glass
3 Bulb
4 Interior bulb holder
5 Shell. bulb holder
11 lens
12 Bulb
6 Sleeve termmal
7 Body
8 Screw. lamp to body
9 Interior lamp
10 Base
13 Terminal sleeve
14 Screw. lamp to body
15 Insert. lamp to body
Bulb list
Voltage
Headlamp - standard
Headlamp - super models (quartz halogen)
Pilot bulb
Stop and tail
Front and rear indicator
Number plate lamp
Interior lamp
Fog and spot lamp
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
Wattage
60/45
60/ 55
5
21/5
21
5
6
48
Cap type
Sealed beam
Sealed beam or metal reflector
Cap less
SBC Stagg
sec
MCC
Festoon
BPF.SC
Electrics
17
Section T
Colour Codes
Letter
Colour
Red
R
w
White
G
Green
Black
B
y
Yellow
Slate
u
Blue
p
Purple
LG
Light Green
Brown
N
0
Orange
K
Pmk
s
~
,~~~\:)
.
2
~
15
9
Figure 17
General electrics system
1 Battery
2 Starter solenoid
3 Fuse box
4 Ignition switch
5 Multi-switch
6 (a) Speedometer
(b) Combined temperature/fuel gauge
7 (a) Hazard warning lights SWitCh
(b) Heated roar screen switch
(c) Oil pressure gauge
(d) Battery condition indicator
8 (a) Hazard warning unit
(b) Flasher unit
9 Temperature sender
1 0 Oil pressure switch
11 Wiper motor
12 Heater motor
13 Horn
14 Brake hght switch
15 lntenor light
16 Fuel gauge sender unit
Electrics
18
Section T
General electrics system
The general electrics include battery, fuses, coil,
starter solenoid, sparking plugs, horn, windscreen
wiper motor, instruments and switches as shown
in Figure 17.
Battery
The battery is a 12 volt, negative earth, wet cell
type and is housed in a well in the L.H. side of
the engine compartment. A metal strap,
connected to two hook bolts and secured by
wing nuts, holds the battery firmly in position
(see Figure 18).
General maintenance
Keep the battery terminals clean and tight.
A smear of petroleum jelly will protect the
battery posts and terminals from corrosion.
Regularly examine the level of the electrolyte in
the cells and, if necessary, add distilled water
to bring the level to the top of the separator
plates. If the battery is found to need frequent
topping up, steps should be taken to determine
the reason. For example, the battery may be
receiving an excessive charge, in which case,
the alternator regulator should be checked.
See pages 7-9. If one cell needs topping up more
than the others, check the condition of the
battery case. If there are any signs of an electrolyte
leak, the battery should be replaced. The
efficency of the battery should occasionally be
checked by means of a hydrometer. The specific
gravity readings and their indications are as
follows:
1·280-1 ·30
Fully charged
Approx. 1 ·20 Half discharged
Approx. 1 ·150 Fully discharged
If electrolyte has been spilled at any time from
any of the cells, check the specific gravity of
the remaining electrolyte and top up the battery
with sulphuric acid solution to the same value.
Always add acid to the water when preparing
the electrolyte. It is dangerous to add water
to acid.
Never use a naked light when examining the
battery. The mixture given off by the battery is
highly explosive.
Figure 18
To remove the battery (see Figure 18)
1 Disconnect the positive and negative leads,
secured to the battery terminals by a 176 UNC
nut and bolt.
2 Unscrew the two wing nuts securing the
battery retaining strap to the hooked bolts.
Remove retaining strap and rubber insulation.
3 Lift the battery from the well, ensuring it is
kept horizontal to avoid spilling the electrolyte.
4 Replace in reverse order and ensure that the
negative terminal is earthed on reconnection.
High rate discharge test
The high rate or heavy discharge test is a timed
on-load voltage check applied separately to
each cell of the battery. Before testing, a battery
should have been off charge for some hours
and each cell must be at least 70% charged,
having a minimum electrolyte density of
1 ·230 SG. The correct size of tester for use on
car batteries is one having an element rated at
150 to 160 amps. It is important to use only
a suitably rated tester.
A cell in good, condition will maintain a constant
1·2-1·5 volt reading on the test meter for
1 0 seconds, when the prongs of the tester are
pressed onto adjacent terminals. A weak cell
will show a rapidly falling voltage. If all the cells
appear weak, this may indicate that the battery
is merely discharged but otherwise healthy.
Battery voltage
By means of the two tests already described,
the condition of the battery has been
ascertained and also its state of charge. The
working voltage should then be checked.
Connect a voltmeter between the positive and
negative battery terminals and note the reading.
The minimum reading for the 12-volt system
should not fall below 1 0·5 volts. If the voltage
does drop rapidly below the minimum reading
the battery will need replacing.
Battery, fuses, coil, starter solenoid, horn, etc.
1 Battery
2 Hook bolt
3 Saddle plate
4 Plate. hook bolt
5 Rivet
6 Strap
7 Insulation
8 Washer. hook bolt
13 Washer
t4 Lockwasher
15 Nut
16 Fuse unit
17 Cover. fuse unit
18 Base. fuse unit
19 Live fuse
20 Screw
25 Rivet
26 Ignition coil
27 Mounting plate. ignition co1l
28 Rivet. coil securing
29 Washer. coil securing
30 Lockwasher. coil securing
31 Nut coil securing
32 Horn
Electrics
Section T
Figure 18
General electrics components
19
Section T
20
Battery specification
2 Remove high tension cable from distributor
cover and whilst holding the cable about 6·0mm
(0·25in) from some metal part of the vehicle,
make and break the contact points with an
electrician's screwdriver.
Electrics
Type
Voltage
Amp-hour capacity
Specific gravity charged
Low limit
Lead acid
12 volts
20
1·280-1·30
1·150
Fuses
The fuse box is secured to the R.H. side of the
engine compartment by two No. 8 screws and
nylon inserts.
A blown fuse is indicated by the failure of all
units protected by it, and is confirmed by
examination of the fuse when withdrawn.
Before renewing a blown fuse inspect the
wiring applicable for evidence of a short.
Use only the correct fuse. The fusing value is
marked on a coloured paper slip inside the glass
tube of the fuse.
The fuses indicated in Figure 18 show the top
35 amp fuse protecting the battery circuit which
includes headlamps, interior lamp and horn.
The 2nd 35 amp fuse protects the ignition
circuit including the indicators, heater, wiper
motor and instrument gauges. This fuse also
protects the hazard warning circuit and
additional gauges, oil pressure and battery
condition indicator, on the Super model.
The 3rd fuse is a 35 amp fuse in series with the
battery lighting circuit protecting the side and
rear lamps including the number plate lamp and
instrument illumination.
The 4th fuse is a 35 amp fuse protecting the
heated rear window on Super models. This fuse
is a 'spare' position on standard models.
On Super models the fog and spot lamp and
radio, if fitted, are protected by separate in-line
fuses located behind the fascia.
Coil
The coil is secured to a mounting plate on the
R.H. side of the engine bulkhead by two -l UNF
nuts, lockwashers and plain washers (see
Figure 18).
Little attention to the- coil is necessary other
than keeping the terminal connections clean·
and tight.
The efficiency of the coil can be tested as
follows:
1 Remove the distributor cover and set the
engine so that the distributor contact points are
closed.
A strong and regular spark will jump the gap
from the end of the cable if the coil is in order.
If a spark is not apparent the coil will have to
be replaced.
Starter solenoid
The starter solenoid is secured to a mounting
bracket on the R.H. side of the engine
compartment by two No. 10 UNF nuts, plain
washers, and lockwashers (see Figure 18).
If difficulty is encountered when trying to start
the engine a faulty solenoid could be the cause.
A simple check can be carried out by pressing
the red button on the solenoid, at which the
starter motor should 'kick over' the engine.
If this fails, a faulty solenoid is indicated, but
before resorting to fitting a replacement check
the starting, ignition and charging systems and
cleanliness and security of the earthing leads.
Sparking plugs
Autolite AGR32 sparking plugs are fitted to all
vehicles. The gaps should be maintained at
0·64mm (0·025in). Providing the carburettor
mixture is correct, a set of plugs will serve for at
least 6,000 miles (1 O,OOOkm) without attention.
When attention is necessary, however, the plugs
should be cleaned on a sand blasting machine.
If on inspection the plugs are badly worn, they
should be replaced to maintain optimum engine
performance. When adjusting the points, the
central electrodes must not be moved. Always
lever the earth electrodes as necessary to obtain
the required gap. On replacement ensure the
plugs are firmly screwed home.
Horn
On standard vehicles a high tone horn is secured
to the L.H. side of the engine compartment by
two -l UN F set screws, plain washers,
lockwashers and nuts. Super vehicles are fitted
with an additional low tone horn located on the
R.H. side of the engine compartment (see
Figure 18).
If the horn fails to operate, first check the
security of the horn terminals and earthing leads.
The horn is not adjustable and must be replaced
if faulty.
Windscreen wiper motor and blades
Description
The windscreen wiper motor, mounted inside the
Electrics
Section T
Figure 19
Windscreen w iper motor
1 Wi per motor
2 Rack
3 Pad
4 Strap
5 Coachwasher
21
6 W asher
11 Bundy. overrun
7 Nut
1 2 Wiper arm and blade
8 Wheelbox
9 Bundy. wheelbox to wheelbox
10 Bundy. motor to wheel box
13 Wi per arm
14 Wiper blade
vehicle above the passenger footwall, is of the
single speed type incorporating a self-switching
power unit, which drives two wheelboxes by
means of a flexible cable rack running through
rigid bundy tubing.
Routine maintenance
To ensure efficient wiping keep the bla.des in
good condition. The windscreen should be kept
clean at all times to prevent possible scratching
due to deposits of dust, etc. Oil, tar spots, or
similar deposits should be removed from the
windscreen with methylated spirits. Silicone or
wax polishes must not be used. An
unsatisfactory action or complete failure to
operate may be caused by a mechanical or
electrical fault, the symptoms and remedial
procedure being described as follows:
(a) Mechanical
Badly kinked or flattened cable rack tubing will
prevent the rack from turning freely, thus
preventing or restricting the operation of the
wheelboxes and wiper arms. The tubing must be
reformed or replaced having a radius of no less
than 228mm (9·0in) . Check the wheelbox
spindle for freedom of rotation, a seized unit or
one having damaged teeth must be replaced.
(b) Electrical
Check that the wiring connection is secure in
the limit switch on the wiper motor to ensure
the voltage supply is adequate. A delay or
complete failure of the wiper blades to operate
could be caused by a faulty wiper switch located
on the fascia. A new one should be fitted to
confirm this.
If all the other electrical and mechanical
components have been found to be functioning
correctly and the wiper system still fails to
operate, a faulty motor is indicated and a
replacement unit must be fitted.
To remove wiper motor (see Figure 19)
1 Prise the wiper blades from the wheelbox
splined drive spindles.
2 Disconnect wiring plug from wiper motor
limit switch.
3 Disconnect cable rack tubing at wiper
motor union.
Electrics
22
Section T
4 Remove two l- UN F set screws, nuts,
lockwashers, and plain washers and detach ·u·
clamp securing motor to body. Remove motor,
carefully withdrawing cable rack from
wheelboxes and rack tubing.
wheelboxes and cable rack tubing. It is not
necessary to disconnect instruments and
switches.
5 Replace in reverse order, taking care not to
damage cable rack.
5 Detach wiper arms, remove wheelbox
spindle retaining nuts, spacers and washers and
push spindles through their locations in the
body.
Wheelboxes and cable rack tubing
To remove
1 Disconnect battery.
6 Slacken L.H. wheelbox clamping nuts and
remove R.H. wheelbox, complete with
intermediate and overrun bundy tube.
2 From underneath fascia disconnect
speedometer cable.
7 Remove R.H. wheelbox, complete with
wheelbox to wiper motor cable rack tubing.
3 Puff the fresh air nozzle from the front of
the fascia and disconnect ducting hose.
8
4 Withdraw fascia (see Section R - Interior)
just sufficiently to gain access to the
Note: Before fitting a new wheel box ensure
the drive wheel is liberally coated with grease.
Replace in reverse order.
Wiper motor specification
Type
Typical light running current (i.e. with cable rack
disconnected) after 60 seconds from cold
Light running speed after 60 seconds from cold
Instruments and switches
Speedometer
Located to the right of the steering wheel.
The meter indicates the speed of the vehicle
and incorporates a total distance travelled
recorder.
Direction indicator warning light
An amber light, at left of centre on the
speedometer face. While indicator flashing unit
is in operation the warning lamp glows
intermittently, in unison with the indicator
lamps.
Headlamp main-beam warning light
A blue lamp, located at right of centre on the
speedometer face. The main-beam warning
lamp is illuminated when the headlamp beams
are raised and will go out when the beams are
dipped.
Water temperature and fuel gauge
This combined instrument is located to the left
of the steering wheel and comprises two
separate gauges. The upper segment of the
instrument indicates the cooling water
temperature in the engine. After the initial rise
in temperature during the warming-up period
a·ny sudden upward change in the meter reading
calls for immediate investigation.
The lower segment of the instrument indicates
the quantity of fuel in the petrol tank. When the
Lucas 14 watt 12 volt
1·5 amp
46-52 rev/min
ignition is switched on the indicator will slowly
rise to the final indicated reading due to the
damping of the meter mechanism.
Ignition warning light
The ignition warning light is located to the left
of centre on the combined temperature and fuel
gauge. This red light serves the dual purpose of
reminding the driver to switch off the ignition,
and of acting as a no-charge indicator. The
light should only be illuminated when the
ignition is switched on without the engine
running, or running at very low speed.
When the engine speed is increased the light
should dim and then go out, failure to do so
indicates a fault in the charging circuit.
Oil pressure warning light
The oil pressure warning light, green in colour,
is located to the right of centre on the
combined instrument. This light should only be
illuminated when the engine is at rest with the
ignition switched on. Immediately the engine
reaches speed it should extinguish, thus
indicating that the oil is circulating under
pressure.
Should the light come on at any other time stop
the engine immediately and investigate the
cause.
Battery condition indicator gaugeSuper models only
Located to the left above the centre console this
Electrics
23
Section T
instrument indicates the battery operating
voltage.
Oil pressure gauge - Super models only
Located to the right above the centre console
this meter indicates that oil is circulating the
engine under the correct pressure. When
starting from cold the gauge may show a high
initial pressure, but will gradually fall to about
3·16kg/ sq em (451b/ sq in) for normal engine
speeds as the engine temperature rises. If a very
low indication is given, or the instrument shows
no pressure at all, the engine shou ld be switched
off immediately and the oil level checked by
means of the engine dipstick.
Figure 20
Combined ignition and starter switch
The ignition/ starter switch is mounted on a
bracket located beneath the fascia to the right
of the steering column. Insert the key and turn
to the right to switch on the ignition . A further
clockwise rotation of the key against spring
pressure operates the starter motor. When the
engine starts the key should be released
instantly.
The switch has an 'auxiliaries' position when
the key is turned anti- clockwise from off. This
enables the radio, etc., if fitted, to be used
without the ignition being switched on.
Instruments and switches
1 Speedometer
2 Bulb
3 Flexible drive
4 ·p· clip
5 Fuel gauge
6 Temperature gauge
7 S-:rew
8 Bulb
9 Oil pressure gauge
10 Bulb
11 Pipe. oil pressure gauge
12 Washer. pipe to gauge
13 ' P'cllp
14 Ammeter
15 Bulb
1 6 Clamp. speedo
17 Clamp. combined Instrument
18 Knurled nut
19 Washer
20 Clamp. oil gauge
21 Clamp. ammeter
22 Knurled nut
23 Knurled nut
24 lockwasher
25 Voltage stabilizer
26 Screw and washer
27 Sealing ring
28 Sealing ring
29 Multi-switch
30 Clamp
31 Screw
32 lockwasher
33 Switch. ignition
34 Nut
35 Washer
36 Bezel
37 Barrel. ignttion lock
38 Key. tgnltion lock
39 Swttch. ltghts
40 Switch. heater
41 Switch. wtper motor
42 Switch. spot lamp
43 Switch. fog lamp
44 Switch. rear screen heater
45 Bulb
46 Swttch. hazard warning
47 Lamp
48 Bulb
49 Choke cable
50 Clip
Electrics
Section T
Combined side/tail lamps and
headlamps switch
The lights switch is a three position rocker type
switch located in the centre of the left hand side
of the main instrument panel. Pressure on the
switch first switches on the side and rear lights
and number plate lamp. Further pressure on the
switch operates the headlamps.
Windscreen wiper switch
The windscreen wipers are controlled by a
rocker switch situated in the top right corner of
the main instrument panel.
Heater switch
The heater has a booster fan controlled by a
rocker switch located in the bottom right
corner of the main instrument panel.
Fog lamp switch -Super models only
A rocker switch situated above the lights
switch operates the fog lamp fitted on Super
models as standard equipment.
Spot lamp switch - Super models only
The spot lamp, fitted as standard equipment on
Super models, is controlled by a rocker switch
located below the lights switch in the bottom
left corner of the main instrument panel.
Hazard warning switch - Super models
only
The switch operating the hazard warning device
is situated to the right of the centre console
radio panel. A rocker type switch, which when
pressed, actuates a device that flashes all four
direction indicator lamps in unison. A warning
light in the centre of the main instrument panel
also flashes to indicate that the device is
operating.
Heated rear window switch - optional
extra
The heated rear window, when fitted, is
operated by a rocker switch located on the
left hand side of the radio panel. The switch
incorporates a green lamp which is illuminated
as a warning when the heating elements are
switched on.
24
Combined direction indicator switch/dip
switch/headlamp flasher and horn-push
A mult!-purpose switch located on the right
hand side of the steering column.
The switch has four positions thus:
Forward Main beam
Flasher
Back
Up
Left hand indicator
Down
Right hand indicator
Press the button on the extreme end of the
switch to operate the horn.
Interior light switch
The interior light is situated above the interior
rear view mirror and has an integral switch on
the body of the lamp.
Instrument and switch removal (see
Figure 20)
Access to both main instrument fixings is
achieved from underneath the fascia. Unscrew
the knurled nuts securing instrument to securing
clamps, withdraw instrument from the fascia and
disconnect appropriate leads.
The combined light switch, windscreen wiper
switch, heater switch, fog lamp switch, spot
lamp switch, hazard warning switch and heated
rear window switch are all removable after
carefully prising out the body of the switch
from the front of the fascia and disconnecting
the appropriate leads. The ignition switch is
removable after unscrewing the locking bezel,
securing switch to mounting bracket and
disconnecting the wiring leads.
To remove multi-switch
1 Remove two screws, complete with
lockwashers, and detach multi-switch cover and
retaining clamp from steering column.
2 Unscrew the two multi-switch fixing
screws and remove clamp, spacer and multiswitch leaving indicator bush on column.
3 Disconnect multi-switch wiring from
underneath fascia, release rubber grommet,
and withdraw wiring through ignition switch
mounting bracket.
4
Replace in reverse order.
Bulb ltst (instruments and warning lights)
Main instrument illumination
Warning light- oil
Warning light - ignition
Warning light - main beam
Warning light - indicators
Warning light- heated rear screen switch
Warning light- hazard unit
Battery indicator gauge illumination
Oil pressure gauge illumination
Voltage
Wattage
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
3
3
3
3
3
1·2
2
2·2
2·2
Cap type
Cap less
Cap less
Capless
Cap less
Cap less
Cap less
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Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
Electrics
1
Section T
Figure 1
Distributor
The 43 04 distributor as used on later 750
engines has been replaced on the 850 engine
by a 45 04 distributor (Figure 1 ).
The 45 04 distributor incorporates a vacuum
advance unit which controls ignition advance
according to engine load by vacuum control
acting directly on the contact breaker plate.
Service recommendations and distributor .
specification are as for the 43 04 distributor.
Distributor
1 Distributor
2 Cover
3 Rotor arm
4 Capacitor
6 Contact set
6 Bush and spring
7 Suction pipe
8 Elbow sleeve
9 Sleeve. suction pipe
10 Fuel trap
11 Clip. fuel trap
1 2 Reduction sleeve
1 3 Screw. distributor
14 Lockwasher. distributor
15 Washer. distributor
Electrics
2
Figure 2
,
Instruments and switches
Speedometer
2 Bulb, illumination
3 Flexible drive. speedo
4 ·p· cl ip
5 Fuel gauge
6 Temperature gauge
7 Screw. gauges
8 Bulb. Illumination
9 Oil pressure gauge
10 Bulb. illumination
,,
Pipe. oil pressure gauge
, 2 Grommet. pipe
13 Washer. pipe to gauge
14 Clip. pipe securing
15 Adaptor. pipe
16 Ammeter
17 Bulb. Illumination
18 Clamp, speedometer
19 Clamp. combined instrument
20 Knurled nut
21 Washer
22 Clamp. oil gauge
23 Knurled nut
24 Washer
26 Clamp. ammeter
26 Knurled nut
27 Washer
28 Voltage stab1hzer
29 Screw. stabilizer
30 Sealing nng
31 Sealing nng
32 Multi-switch
33 Clamp, multi-SWitCh
34 Screw. mulu-swltch
35 Spacer. multi-switch
36 Ignition SWitCh
37 Nut, switch fix1ng
38 Washer. sw itch fix1ng
39 Bezel. switch fixing
40 Barrel. ignition lock
41 Key. ignition lock
42 Switch. lighting
43 Switch. heater motor
44 Switch. w iper motor
46 Switch. heated rear screen
46 Bulb. illum1nation
47 Switch. auxiliary lamps
48 Switch. hazard warning
49 Lamp. warning indicator
60 Bulb, lamp
51 Choke cable
52 Clip, cable secunng
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
Electrics
Instruments and switches
With the introduction of the Robin 850,
certain switch. positions on the main instrument
panel have changed as follows (Figure 2).
Windscreen wiper switch
The windscreen wiper switch is now situated
in the top left corner of the main instrument
panel.
Heater switch
The heater booster fan switch is now
situated in the bottom left corner of the main
instrument panel.
Fog lamp/spot lamp switch (Super models
only)
The individual fog and spot lamp switches
have been replaced by a combined auxiliary
lamp switch. This is a two-position rocker
switch located in the bottom right-hand
corner of the main instrument panel. Pressure
on the switch first operates the left-hand lamp.
Further pressure on the switch illuminates both
left-hand and right-hand auxiliary lamps.
Hazard warning switch - Super models
The hazard warning switch is now situated in
the top right-hand corner of the main
instrument panel.
Heated rear window switch (optional
extra)
The heated rear window switch is now situated
on the right-hand side of the radio panel.
3
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Colour code :
W -White
G - Green
B - Black
Y - Yellow
S - S late
U - Blue
P - Purple
LG - Light green
N - Brown
0 - Orange
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R -Red
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Section U
Windscreen wesher
Windscreen washer
W indscreen washer
Descr i ption
The windscreen washer is operated by a plunger
button located on the R.H. of the fascia,
between the heater and wiper motor switches.
Water is directed onto the screen from a twin
nozzle jet, linked to a reservoir. clipped in a
support bracket rivetted to the R.H. side of the
engine compartment. via plastic tubing. Two
non-return valves are incorporated in the tubing
to ensure all the water is used during every
operation of the plunger button.
The washer reservoir shou ld be checked weekly
and topped up, if necessary, w ith clean water.
When cleaning the vehicle take care not to
block up the nozzles of the washer jet as this
wi ll result in inefficient and irregular cleaning of
the windscreen. Use a fine needle to clear the
jets.
To remove w asher pum p (see Figure 1 )
1 Unscrew bezel securing pump to fascia.
2 From underneath the fascia disconnect the
inlet and outlet tubes from the pump, which can
then be removed from the vehicle.
3
Replace in reverse order.
Figure 1
Windscreen washer
1 Container
2 Bracket. container
3 Rive t
4 Grommet
5 Pump
6 Jet
7 Valvo
Section U
1
To r emove wash er jet (see Figure 1)
1 From underneath fascia disconnect tubing
from washer jet.
2 Remove wing nut, complete with lockwasher,
and withdraw jet from its body seating.
3 Replace in reverse order ensuring the jet is
positioned with the two nozzles angled equally
at the windscreen.
Section V
Optional extras
Radio 1
Radio suppression 2
Radio aerial 2
Tightening torques
Optional extras
Section V
Radio
The radio, mounted in the fascia is located
centrally above the fresh air outlet. The
loudspeaker is mounted on the tunnel to the
rear of the handbrake lever.
Radio controls
The L.H. control knob switches the radio on and
off as well as governing the volume. The R.H.
knob is used to tune to the station required.
The receiver has two push buttons controlling
the waveband selection. The L.H. button
selects the Long wave band and the R.H.
button selects the Medium wave band.
For optimum results from the receiver it is
advisable to ensure that the aerial mast is kept
clean and that the sliding sections are
occasionally lubricated with a light oil.
Should the overall quality and sensitivity of the
receiver show a noticeable deterioration, or
should interference become excessive, do not
immediately suspect the receiver. The fault is
more often with the installation and all leads
and suppressors should be checked, especially
the aerial cable extension connection, located in
front of the L.H. rear wheel arch. This connection
should be securely taped to ensure it is fully
waterproof. The suppression equipment fitted is
vigorously tested and will withstand extremes
of temperature and vibration. An engine in a
poor state of tune can produce vibratory
conditions sufficient to damage the suppressors.
This will cause an increase in interference and
should be remedied immediately.
Station guide
BBC Service Areas:
Radio 1 (popular music) 247m Medium Wave
Radio 2 (Light programme) 1500m Long Wave
Radio 3 (Third programme) 464m Medium Wave
in Central and Southern England, elsewhere on
194m Medium Wave
Radio 4 (Home Service)
330/202m Medium Wave - London
284/206m West of England
434/271 m North of England
276m
Midlands
341m
Welsh
371 m
Scottish
224m
Northern Ireland
To remove radio
1 Disconnect battery.
2
Pull off radio control knobs.
3 Remove two retaining nuts, plain washers
and wavy washers securing radio unit, bezel,
and packing plates to fascia.
1
4 Detach radio bezel and front (matt black}
packing plate.
5 Push the radio back behind the fascia and
manoeuvre to enable it to be withdrawn,
complete with rear packing plate, through
location aperture. Remove packing plate.
6
Pull out aerial cable plug from rear of radio.
7 Disconnect radio supply lead (Red) from
ignition switch.
8 Slacken grub screws at terminal block and
disconnect speaker leads (black/red and black}.
9 Remove centre console and engine rear
access panel.
10 Remove top R.H. gearbox to engine fixing
bolt and disconnect radio earth lead (black}.
Note: This bolt also secures radio to wiper
motor suppression lead.
11 The radio can now be removed from the
vehicle. Note position of nylon bush and
spacing washer on radio control knob spindles.
To replace
1 Support the radio and secure earth lead
(black} and radio suppression lead to bell
housing with top R.H. gearbox to engine fixing
bolt.
2 Replace engine rear access panel, and
centre console.
3 Reconnect radio speaker leads (black/red
and black) at terminal block.
4 Route supply lead behind fascia and
reconnect to ignition switch.
5
Plug in aerial cable to rear of radio.
6 Locate radio behind fascia and fit rear
packing plate over radio control knob spindles.
To facilitate replacement the radio can be
supported from under the fascia to the right
of the engine bulkhead.
7 Pull radio unit forward against fascia, fit
front packing plate and bezel securing
components in position with two retaining nuts,
plain washers and wavy washers.
8
Refit radio control knobs.
9
Reconnect battery.
Radio speaker
To remove
1 Remove four self tapping screws securing
speaker box to tunnel.
Optional extras
2 Raise the speaker box and disconnect the
red/black lead at snap connector.
3 Remove four nuts, lockwashers and plain
washers and detach speaker from speaker box.
4
2
Section V
Replace in reverse order.
Radio suppression
Four radio suppressors are fitted, one linked to
the wiper motor wiring underneath the fascia,
one secured to the coil mounting bracket and
connected to the ignition side of the coil, one
secured to the L.H. speedometer clamp and
connected to the stablizer and one built-in to
the alternator slip ring end bracket and
connected to one of the regulator terminals.
In addition three suppression braids are used
linking heater control valve mounting to radiator,
radiator to coil mounting bracket and coil
mounting bracket to thermostat housing.
Radio aerial
To remove
1 From underneath the vehicle in front of the
rear wheel arch disconnect aerial cable from
extension cable. It will be necessary to remove
the insulation tape.
2 Prise rubber grommet from its location in
the body and push aerial cable socket up
through grommet aperture.
3 For the Saloon aerial remove single self
tapping screw supporting aerial stem to
inner body at the vehicle LH rear quarter.
4 Retract aerial, remove two locking nuts,
chrome spacer and nylon adjuster and
withdraw aerial assembly, complete with cable
from underneath the vehicle.
5 To complete the removal of the Van aerial
unscrew aerial cable adaptor, complete with
star washer, and small retaining nut and star
washer, securing aerial to the L.H. rear of the
body. Access to the aerial fixings can be
gained by removing the rear door striker access
grommet.
6 Withdraw aerial cable from underneath
the vehicle.
To replace
1 Locate Saloon aerial in body mounting
and secure in position with nylon adjuster,
chrome spacer and locknuts.
2 Secure aerial stem to interior body with
single self tapping screw.
3 To replace Van aerial locate in body
mounting and secure in position with aerial
cable adaptor and hexagon nut, complete with
star washers. Refit door striker access grommet.
4 To complete the refitting of both Saloon
and Van aerials route aerial cable over
wheelarch and thread through grommet
aperture. Refit grommet.
5 Connect aerial cable to cable extension
and thoroughly bind the joint with insulation
tape to make completely waterproof.
Aerial cable extension
The aerial cable extension is secured
underneath the vehicle along the door still of
the vehicle by three 'P' clips. It is then routed
up, forward of the 'A' post, through a rubber
grommet and connected to the radio unit.
1
Tightening torques
Tightening torques - kgm (lb ft)
Engine
Cylinder head nuts
i UNF 3·46 (25)
Big end bearing bolts
Main bearing nuts
Flywheel bolts
Manifold nuts
Rockershaft supports
Fuel pump nuts
UNF 2·07 (15)
UNF 2·90 (21)
i UNF 3·18-3·32 (23-24)
i UNF 4·03 (29)
5
1 6 UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
i UNF 2·35-3·04 (17-22)
5
1 6 UN F 1 ·66-2·07 (12-15)
Clutch
Pressure plate to flywheel
,S6 UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
Gearbox
Gearbox to engine
Front cover
Rear cover
Top cover
Drain and filler plug
-l: UNF 0·69-1·10 (5-8)
-l: UNC 0·83-1·24 (6-9)
-k UNC 0·83-1·24 (6-9)
l Gas 2·07-2· 76 (15-20)
Engine/gearbox mountings
Engine mountings to chassis and engine front plate
Gearbox mountings to support bracket
Gearbox support bracket to chassis
Driveshaft
Driveshaft to axle and gearbox coupling
Rear axle
Axle case to side covers
Axle tube to axle case
Hub to axle shaft
Coupling flange to pinion
Axle filler plug
Breather
Rear suspension
Leaf springs to chassis
Leaf springs to shackles
Shackles to chassis
bolts and damper mounting brackets to springs
Damper unit to mounting brackets
Damper unit to chassis
Anti-roll bar to leaf spring
Anti-roll bar to chassis
·u·
Front suspension
Radius arm to frame
Damper unit to radius arm and frame
Steering
Steering arm to stub axle
Steering box to frame
Track rod to drop arm
Track rod to steering arm
Steering wheel to column
5
1 6
5
1 6
5
16
UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
i UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
i UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
,S6 UNF 2·07-2·49 (15-18)
5
1 6
UNF 3·46-4·15 (25-30)
5
1 6
UNF 2·76-3-46 (20-25)
i UNF
i UNF
i UNF
l BSP
i BSP
4·15-4·84 (30-35)
13·8-15·2 (100-110)
9·67-11·75 (70-85)
2·07-2·76 (15-20)
1·38-1·80 (1 0-13)
-l UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
-l UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
-l UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
/ 6
UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
-l: UNF 1·1-1·38 (8-1 0)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
-l UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
5
1 6
UNF 2·5-3·18 (18-23)
i UNF 3·6-3·87 (26-28)
i UNF 3·6-3·87 (26-28)
i UNF 3·6-3·87 (26-28)
9
1 6
UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
Brakes
Front backplate to hub
Rear backplate to hub
Master cylinder to mounting plate and body
5
1 6
5
1 6
5
16
UNF 2·5-3·18 (18-23)
UNF 2·5-3·18 (18-23)
UNF 2·5-3·18 (18-23)
Road wheels
Wheel nuts
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
Robin 850 Workshop Manual Supplement
1
Tightening torques
Tightening torques- kg m (lbft)
Engine
Cylinder head nuts
Big end bearing bolts
Main bearing nuts
Flywheel bolts
Manifold nuts
Rockershaft supports
Fuel pump nuts
Spark plugs
Sump bolts
i UNF 3·46 (25)
fa UNF 2·07 (15)
fa UNF 2·90 (21)
i UNF 3·18-3·32 (23-24)
i UNF 4·03 (29)
fa UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
i UNF 2·35-3·04 (17-22)
fa UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
2·1 (15)
i UNC 0·69-1·10 (5-8)
Clutch
Pressure plate to flywheel
Gearbox
Gearbox to engine
Front cover
Rear cover
Top cover
Drain and filler plug
fa UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
fa UNF 1·66-2·07 (12-15)
1 UNF
0·69-1·1 0 (5-8)
i UNC 0·83-1 ·24 (6-9)
1 UNC 0·83·T24 (6-9)
i Gas 2·07 -2· 76 (15-20)
Engine/gearbox mountings
Engine mountings to chassis and engine
front plate
Gearbox mountings to support bracket
Gearbox support bracket to chassis
Driveshaft
Driveshaft to axle and gearbox coupling
i UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
i UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
..,fa UNF 2·07-2·49 (15-18)
fa UNF 3·46-4·15 (25-30)
Rear axle
Axle case to side cover
Axle tube to axle case
Hub to axle shaft
Coupling flange to pinion
Axle filler plug
fa UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
i UNF 13·8-15·2 (100-110)
i UNF 9·67-11·75 (70-85)
i BSP 2·07 -2· 76 (15-20)
Rear suspension
Leaf springs to chassis
Leaf springs to shackles
Shackles to chassis
bolt to leaf spring c1amp plate
Damper unil to axle mounting bracket
Damper unit to chassis
Anti-roll bar to link
Anti-roll bar link to clamp plate
Anti-roll bar to chassis
·u·
Front suspension
Radius arm to frame
Damper ullit to radius arm and frame
Steering
Steering arm to stub axle
Steering box to frame
Flexible coupling to upper and lower column
Track rod to drop arm
Track rod to steering arm
Steering wheel to column
ls UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
! UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
! UNF 4·84-5·53 (35-40)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
i UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
/ 6
UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
-1tJ UNF 4·15-4·84 (30-35)
l UNF 1·10-1·38 (8-10)
i UNF
! UNF
4·15-4·84 (30-35)
4·84-5·53 (35-40)
fa UNF 2·50-3·18 (18-23)
i UNf 3·60-3·87 (26-28)
-;\- UNF 2·77-3·18 (20-23)
i UNF 3·60-3·87 (26-28)
i UNF 3·60-3·87 (26-28)
-;\ UNF 2·76-3·46 (20-25)
2
Tightening torques-kg m (lbft)
Brakes
Front backplate to hub
Rear backplate to hub
Master cylinder to mounting plate and body
fa UNF 2·50-3·18 (18-23)
fa UNF 2·50-3·18 (18-23)
fa UNF 2·50-3·18 (18-23)
Road wheels
Wheel nuts
~ UNF
4·15-4·84 (30-35)
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