Virginia Mill Works Engineered Installation Instructions

Virginia Mill Works Engineered Installation Instructions
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Thank you for choosing Virginia Mill Works ENGINEERED floors!
ENGINEERED INSTRUCTIONS
Installation methods; Staple-down, Nail-down, Glue-down or Edge-glue and float
Install our wood flooring according to the general installation guidelines as set forth by the (NWFA) The NATIONAL WOOD FLOORING
ASSOCIATION WWW.NWFA.ORG. However, because of various vendor and product requirements the Virginia Mill Works instructions
takes precedence. Virginia Mill Works denies any responsibility for problems beyond its control such as but not limited to; job-site and
subfloor conditions, improper storage, environmental or moisture related issues, installation and tool usage. Comply with local or
International Residential Codes (IRC) We encourage you to please read these instructions and ask questions before installation.
CONTENT
Page 2
APPLICATIONS
OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITIES
JOB SITE INSPECTION
HANDLE WITH CARE
VENTILATED CRAWL SPACES
Page 3
ACCLIMATION/CONDITIONING OF THE FLOORING
GENERAL INFORMATION
TOOL LIST
Page 4
NAILDOWN OVERVIEW
MOISTURE TESTING
WOOD SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Page 5
FASTENER SELECTION
FASTENER SPACING
NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Page 6
NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS CONTINUED
Page 7
GLUE DOWN OVERVIEW
CONCRETE SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Page 8
RECOMMENDED AHESIVES
GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Page 9
GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS CONTINUED
DOUBLE STICK INSTRUCTIONS
FLOATING FLOOR INSTRUCTIONS
Page 10
FLOATING FLOOR INSTRUCTIONS CONTINUED
Page 11
MOLDINGS
SEASONAL CHANGES
RADIANT HEAT
Page 12
ROUTINE MAINTAINANCE
Page 13
APPROVED UNDERLAYMENTS
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 2 of 16
APPLICATIONS
Staple/Glue/Float
Virginia Mill Works engineered flooring is our most versatile flooring and can be applied on every level of the home. When nailing,
engineered flooring is typically installed using specially designed pneumatic wood flooring staplers or cleat nailers, both types work
well. Ensure the use of correct sized fasteners and adaptors. Virginia Mill Works can be fully-glued to wood subfloors and concrete.
Follow the glue manufactures labeling instructions regarding correct trowel size, removal of surface sealers or contaminates and use of
moisture barriers. Virginia Mill Works can also be edge-glued and floated over a dense pad underlayment to meet the needs of
customers, building specifiers and condominium associations desiring a quieter and warmer floor (see underlayment section) and some
floors can be applied over in-floor radiant heat. Specific details are outlined in this document; installations outside these guidelines are
viewed as experimental.
OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITIES
Engineered wood flooring is a product of nature characterized by distinctive variations in grain, pattern, and color. These natural
variations are neither flaws or defects, but rather the natural beauty and uniqueness of wood, and should be expected. Only stained
products will have the most uniformity in color or shade. Before beginning the installation first determine if the job site and subfloor
conditions are acceptable. The in-home environment, weather fluctuations and product storage can adversely affect all organic
materials (see acclimation). The customer/installer is responsible for final inspection of quality, and for moisture testing the subfloor
and wood flooring. During installation, use reasonable board selectivity and good judgment. From a standing position any individual
board deemed unacceptable in appearance should not be used. Defects should be cut off placing the remainder in closets or near walls.
To minimize gapping, boards of similar widths should be placed together in the same row. Most manufacturers and distributors agree
that a reasonable amount of installed flooring (up to 25% or 100sqft) whichever is less is enough to determine acceptance of quality.
Because use constitutes acceptance, once the flooring is completely installed it is deemed appropriate for use by all parties concerned.
If milling or quality issues are suspected stop the installation and call CUSTOMER CARE 800-366-4204 immediately. The manufacturer
shall not be responsible for costs associated with repairing or replacing flooring installed with visible defects. Our floors are
manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards that may allow possible defects not to exceed 5%. Depending on layout,
board selection and species, about 5%-8% of additional material should be included in an actual order to complete the project. Custom
installations, diagonal layouts and certain species may require an additional 10%-15%. The use of putty, stains, wood blend sticks or
markers to touch-up prefinished flooring before, during and after installation is considered normal practice.
JOB SITE INSPECTION
The yard around the work space should be graded to allow water to run away from the building. The building must be enclosed. The
crawl space or basement must be dry. Crawl space should be a minimum 18” from the ground to the underside of the joist. To prevent
moisture related issues such as buckling or cupping, all wet trades involving water or moisture (plumbing, ceramic tiles, drywall
finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood floor installation. Gutters should
be in place and function properly to direct water away from the foundation. For best performance, wood flooring should be one of the
last items installed. (HVAC) Heating, Ventilation and or Air conditioning systems should be fully operating and running with
temperature between 60F and 80F, with humidity between 30% and 50%, at least 5 days before delivery. NOTE; Some regions of the
country are moderate in both temperatures and humidity, homes in these regions may not have typical (HVAC) Heating, Ventilation
and Air-conditioning systems to regulate the indoor environment, therefore in this and in all cases, it is the flooring professional or
homeowner’s responsibility to determine if the indoor environment or moisture content of the wood flooring is suitable or not for
installation and its on-going maintenance.
HANDLE WITH CARE
It is understood that wood products are sensitive to moisture, temperature and humidity, therefore store your new flooring inside in
the area to be installed not in unclimatized buildings, garages, sheds, directly on bare concrete or next to outside walls. It is important
to keep wood flooring dry, protect the flooring from rain or snow during transportation. Lay the flooring flat in a dry level place. Provide
air flow under and around cartons. Remove any plastic or cellophane that may be in or around the boxes. Open up the ends of the
boxes to help prepare the flooring for acclimation. Cartons should be placed close to the center of the installation area as possible.
Keep out of direct sunlight and away from heat/air vents. To prevent board warping, twisting or bowing do not cut the plastic support
packaged bindings or remove product from the packaging until ready to install.
VENTILATED CRAWL SPACES Per; (IRC) International Residential Code, Section R408.1
Inspect the under-floor crawl space it must have vents for proper cross-ventilation (pic1). Venting allows damp areas to dry-out,
reducing the likelihood on mild growth, and to minimize moisture pressure or build-up under homes. Provide year-round air circulation
with multiple vents, a minimum of 1 square foot for each 150 square feet of under-floor space area. One ventilating opening shall be
within 3 feet of each corner. Ventilation fans can be used in the crawl space area to circulate the air, promote drying and reduce dead
air spaces. (Exception R408.2; "Where warranted by climatic conditions, ventilation openings to the outdoors are not required If,
ventilation/conditioned openings to the homes interior are provided.") Ground cover; under the home in the crawlspace completely
cover 100% of the soil to guard against ground moisture, use black 6-mil virgin polyethylene sheet plastic as a moisture vapor
barrier. Overlap plastic seams 6” and duct tape seams completely.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 3 of 16
(fig a)
ACCLIMATION/CONDITIONING OF THE FLOORING
After harvesting, engineered wood flooring is kiln-dried for optimum service. Wood is hygroscopic, meaning its size and shape changes
with the absorption or release of moisture. The amount of change varies with wood species, cut, and type of flooring. Therefore,
controlling wood moisture content (mc) is important for success. First, acclimate the new flooring inside the home in consistent indoor
temperatures of 60°-80° F and indoor humidity levels of 30% - 50%. Using a reliable species specific moisture meter, measure the
moisture of the wood subfloor and flooring. The difference between the moisture of the wood subfloor and wood flooring should not
exceed 4% (See moisture testing) Continue to acclimate the flooring until you meet these requirements. The length of acclimation time
is not the determining factor. The goal of acclimation is to reach a balance between the core of the new flooring with its surroundings
before assembly, fastening or installation. Depending on your local conditions the use of a dehumidifier or a humidifier may be
necessary to maintain the desired results. Very dry or humid regions of the country usually require extended conditioning to balance
the wood to the environment it will service. Proper jobsite conditions, acclimation, moisture testing of the subfloor and new flooring all
work together for the success of the installation, and is the responsibility of those overseeing the project. Not following the above
recommendations can negatively impact board performance and can result in excessive movement, squeaks, board gapping, boardedge cupping, finish splits and other related issues. This is especially true regarding flooring placed in seasonal or vacation homes
without proper ventilation and climate conditions.
SUMMER/WINTER MOISTURE CONTENT MAP
The map of the United States below shows the average moisture content of interior wood products for each state/region (see moisture
testing). The first number indicates the average moisture content of wood in January (winter – lower humidity months), and the
second number indicates the average moisture content in July (summer – higher humidity months). To calculate what the optimal
average wood moisture content is add the high season and low season together, then divide by two. Example: If your region has an
expected low of 6% to a high of 12%, the average baseline moisture content of the wood would be 9%. When wood flooring has
achieved the average in moisture content for the geographical location and the proper relative humidity conditions are present the
installation can begin. If the moisture content of the product is outside of the average moisture content of that region, extended
acclimation time would be needed. This map is merely a helpful guide for installation, actual moisture content in any location may differ
significantly from these numbers. Ideal interior environmental conditions will vary from region to region and jobsite to jobsite,
therefore the most reliable moisture-content numbers will be obtained using a moisture meter to determine the moisture content of the
new wood flooring in relation to the subfloor. NOTE; Some regions of the country are moderate in both temperatures and humidity,
homes in these regions may not have typical (HVAC) Heating, Ventilation and Air-conditioning systems to regulate the indoor
environment, therefore in this and in all cases, it is the flooring professional or homeowner’s responsibility to determine if the indoor
environment or moisture content of the wood flooring is suitable or not for installation and its on-going maintenance.
Optimum Flooring Moisture Content (%) by U.S. Region
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
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The effects of Temperatures and Humidity on wood flooring
It is understood that wood products are sensitive to moisture, temperature and humidity. Refer to the chart below to better
understand the best in-home environmental relationships between relative humidity (RH), temperature, and flooring moisture content
(%). Refer to the current weather conditions in your area; find the combination of temperature and RH on the chart (temperature
variations are listed on the left side of the chart, humidity variations are listed along the bottom) Note the values within chart’s
shaded area represents the ideal wood moisture content of 6-9% and is optimal for maximum wood flooring stability. For
environments outside of this range allow more time for acclimation. Depending on your local in-home conditions, the use of
humidification/dehumidification equipment may be recommended to maintain the proper in-home environment.
Note: Wood products properly acclimated and maintained to consistent temperatures of 60°-80° F and humidity 30% - 50% will
become relatively dormant, less likely to shrink or expand. Wood flooring kept outside these recommended values may result in
dimensional or structural distortion, warping, excessive expansion, shrinkage and board or subfloor squeaking, popping noises.
Acclimation is the responsibility of the installer and or homeowner.
GENERAL INFORMATION (all installations)
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Install flooring in normal proper lighting.
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Save a box of flooring for future repairs.
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Do not install in full bathrooms or areas with steam.
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Inspect subfloor for flatness, squeaks, and moisture.
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Avoid board grouping, board sizes should be intermingled.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 5 of 16
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Use breathable materials like paper when protecting a newly installed floor.
Inspect flooring during installation, select out boards have milling and finish defects.
The customer is advised to be home during the installation for consultation/direction.
Customer and installer should discuss installation and layout to maximize satisfaction.
It is helpful to save the item number found on the packaging box ends for future references.
Jobsite subfloors can be dry today and wet tomorrow the use of moisture barriers is highly recommended.
Do not install this product below-grade or in basements where the ground soil will be 3” above cement level.
Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color, shade and appearance.
Do not install flooring under permanent or fixed cabinetry (should the cabinetry or flooring need to be removed in the future)
An Expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions. This space is normally the same as the
thickness of the new flooring. For example; 1/2” flooring requires 1/2” expansion.
HELPFUL TOOLS
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Pencil
Chalk line
6’ level or 10’ level
Miter saw
Table saw
60 tooth carbide tip saw blades
Broom
Jamb saw
Eye protection
Dust Mask
Gloves
Norge Floor Stapler
Floor fasteners
Hygrometer (test home temperature and humidity)
Blue painters tape (2080)
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PVA wood glue
Air Compressor with regulator
Air hose
Drill bit set
Hammer
Tape measure
Moisture meter (wood)
Calcium chloride moisture test (concrete)
Approved adhesive remover (glue down installs)
Cloth rags
Nail set
Drill
6d finish nails
Jig saw
Ear protection
NAILDOWN OVERVIEW
MOISTURE TESTING
subfloor and new floor
[CAUTION]
Most wood flooring failures result from jobsite moisture. Do not unpack or deliver flooring to the jobsite until
moisture problems are corrected. The goal of moisture testing is two-fold. (1) To determine when the installation can begin and (2) to
verify that proper moisture balance between the new floor boards and that of the existing subfloor has been achieved. After thoroughly
testing both the subfloor and the flooring, be sure that the moisture content of both doesn’t differ by more than 4%. Verify by using a
moisture meter (pic1) that will have settings for engineered wood floors. Pin or probe meters that have adjustable species settings are
most accurate. Contact the meter manufacturer directly for appropriate settings. Meter examples; (Tramex, Ligno-Mat, or Delmhorst).
(pic1)
Testing the subfloor. Set the meter to the type of subfloor. Obtain an average by meter testing (once per every 100sqft of subfloor).
Test around exterior doorways, near foundation walls and in the center of the room. On average, the subfloor moisture range must not
exceed 12%.
Test the new flooring. Set the meter to using the appropriate setting for engineered flooring. Obtain an average reading by testing
(10 boards out of every 100sqft) of new flooring. Our flooring can have acceptable moisture range between 6% minimum and 12%
maximum. The new flooring should be within 4% of the subfloor reading. If high moisture readings are found exceeding 12% in either
the new floor or subfloor identify the moisture source and correct, extend acclimation time and circulate the air increasing ventilation.
Postpone the installation until the proper conditions have been met. It is recommended to document moisture test results with notes
should future questions arise such as; a record of the customer’s name, the order number and digital pictures showing the meter
actually being used, including the time and date.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 6 of 16
SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Wood subfloors
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All wood subfloor components must not exceed 12% moisture content.
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Do not install flooring directly over floor joist without subflooring. Subfloors provide strength and a proper nailing base.
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All structural subfloor panels must be installed sealed-side down, and provide minimum ¾” perimeter spacing. Square-edged
or non-tongue and grooved panels used as a subfloor will require a minimum 1/8˝ (3 mm) expansion space placed between
all plywood seams. Panels must meet minimum CDX grade Exposure 1 and US Voluntary Product Standard PS1-95, PS2-04 or
Canadian performance standard CAN/CSA 0325-0-92 for construction sheathing. Check panel for codes.
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Solid planks used for subflooring should be ¾” x 5 1/2” (1” x 6” nominal), Group 1 dense softwoods, No. 2 Common, kilndried to less than 12% percent moisture content.
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See acceptable subfloor types on the last page of these instructions.
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Particleboard, Luan or Masonite: is not recommended, remove or cover with 3/8” plywood.
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Minimum of 3/8˝CDX panel thickness is recommended when used as an underlayment over an existing subfloor.
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Avoid pressure treated plywood for interior use. These can have elevated moisture or latent with rot resistant chemicals.
Note that joist spacing determines minimum subfloor thickness.
• Joist spacing 16” on center (OC)
Plywood: Minimum of (5/8˝) Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”) Advantech Minimum (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing 16” up to 19.2” (OC)
Plywood: Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”) Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Minimum of (3/4˝, 23/32”)
• Joist spacing over 19.2”up to maximum 24” (OC)
Plywood: Minimum of (7/8”) Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Minimum of (1”)
Wood floor orientation
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Nail wood flooring perpendicular to the floor joist
Nailing wood flooring parallel to the floor joist is an option using a combination of plywood, OSB, Advantech or similar
approved subfloors.
Floor joist (16” to 19.2 oc) The total subfloor thickness minimum must be 1-1/4”
Floor joist greater than (19.2 up to 24”oc) The total subfloor thickness minimum must be 1-7/16”
When nailing over existing solid wood tongue and groove flooring, install over an additional 3/8” plywood or run the new
flooring perpendicular or at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the existing flooring.
Flatness
All subfloors should be flat to within 3/16” in 10 feet or 1/8” in 6 feet radius. Wood subfloors must be securely nailed or screwed to
joists to minimize movement or squeaks. Install over 16”minimum center-to-center joist sub-structure. Thoroughly inspect and replace
existing floor or subfloor that shows evidence of water damage or structural weakness. Repair any sagging or loose sections of a wood
subflooring. Squeaky or loose boards should be re-secured. An uneven or cupped subfloor can be an indication of excess moisture or
rot, identify and correct. High spots/joist may be sanded down. Low spots should be cut out and repaired or may be filled with old
pieces of firm vinyl or build up with 30 lb. black roofing paper. Do not fill-in low areas under naildown flooring with cement patching
materials as these may break down over time.
New construction; It is the builder’s or general contractor’s responsibility to provide the wood flooring contractor with a subfloor that is
within the tolerances listed above. Postpone the installation until corrections have been completed.
[NAILING TIPS]:
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Test nailing a couple of planks in a well lit area, near a window.
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Place fasteners on tongue side that runs the length of the planks. Do not place fasteners into the groove.
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If the staples do not go in far enough raise the air pressure on the compressor up slightly and re-test until staples sit flush
into the wood above the tongue.
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If the staples go in too deep lower air pressure until staples sit flush above the tongue. Some floor staplers have the ability to
adjust the depth of the fastener. This may need to be adjusted for the staples to seat correctly.
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Tongue fractures can be reduced by lowering the compressor’s PSI and using the recommended floor stapler.
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Dimples can be reduced by seating the floor staplers correctly on the board or using thinner gauge fasteners like 20 gauge
staples. Make sure the staples are sitting flush in the wood or dimples can occur. Adjusting the depth of the stapler to seat
fasteners a bit deeper can help minimize dimples.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 7 of 16
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Only use pneumatic nail guns designed for engineered wood flooring. Norge 4 n 1 floor stapler, Stanley Bostich, Powernail,
and similar engineered flooring staplers are acceptable.
Check for squeaks after nailing. Squeaks can occur due to tongue fracture, uneven subfloor, improper fasteners, or improper
fastener spacing. Squeaks can be corrected or minimized by adding a PVA floating floor wood glue to the tongue and groove of
the plank before nailing.
If stapler will not shoot staples, check for air leaks, jammed staples, staple size, and compressor air pressure.
Its best to pre-drill and hand nail the first row using a 3/32” drill bit and 6d finish nail. This will help prevent finish chipping
due to pneumatic finish or brad nailers.
If dimpling still occurs switch to a floating or glue down installation. We do not recommend the use of water base adhesives.
ENGINEERED WOOD FASTENER SELECTION
18 , 19, or 20 gauge engineered flooring staples
½” – 9/16”
1-1/4” or 1 -1/2” long
3/8”
5/16”
18 , 19, or 20 gauge engineered flooring staples 1” or 1-1/4” long
18 , 19, or 20 gauge engineered flooring staples 1” or 1-1/4” long
**A floating or glue down installation may be the best choice for the thinner 5/16” flooring, to help prevent tongue fracture and
dimpling during installation. **
FASTENER SPACING
Place fasteners 3”- 4”apart (for staples) within 1- 2″ from each end with at least two fasteners
Important: Set air compressor to 70-80 PSI. Test and adjust air pressure to ensure proper setting of fasteners. Make sure that the
fastening machine is fully adjustable, is in good working condition, is at the appropriate angle and seats properly against the tongue of
the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.
Note: Only use flooring stapler that are fully adjustable and that engage the top profile over the tongue at the
appropriate angle. Make sure that the flooring stapler is in good working condition and seats properly against the board
to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage. Any damage caused by fasteners or nailers is not covered by the
warranty.
NAILDOWN INSTRUCTIONS
[CAUTION]: Nail flooring in good lighting. After nailing 100 sq ft, stop and inspect the installed floor for any defects or damages. Stop
at 20 sqft for installation under 100sqft. Make adjustments as needed. If satisfied, continue with the installation. When top nailing prefinished flooring (the first and last rows, stair treads, and risers) it is recommended to pre-drill and hand nail using a 3/32” drill bit and
6d finish nails. Pneumatic 16ga. finish nail or 18ga. brad nail guns can be used to secure the first and last rows, but improper use can
easily damage the board or finishes. When installing over crawl spaces, basements, or garages use 15 lb. black felt paper, Black
asphalt saturated Kraft paper, or white Silicon Vapor Shield® as a minimum to provide protection against moisture vapors (see a list of
all approved underlayments on last page). Install underlayment parallel to the new flooring.
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Nail wood flooring perpendicular to the floor joist
Nailing wood flooring parallel to the floor joist is an option using a combination of plywood, OSB, Advantech or similar
approved subfloors.
Floor joist (16” to 19.2 oc) The total subfloor thickness minimum must be 1-1/4”
Floor joist greater than (19.2 up to 24”oc) The total subfloor thickness minimum must be 1-7/16”
When nailing over existing solid wood tongue and groove flooring, install over an additional 3/8” plywood or run the new
flooring perpendicular or at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the existing flooring.
INSTALLATION PREP
Use a manual or electric jamb saw to undercut all door jambs/casing to allow enough clearance for the wood flooring to easily slide
underneath. A credit card thick gap between the top of the wood flooring and bottom of the door jamb is acceptable. Sand down high
areas of the subfloor. Correct low areas (See subfloor prep). Sweep or vacuum the subfloor clean of dust and debris. Install moisture
retardant underlayment, and staple it down to prevent movement/sliding. (See underlayments)
STEP 1: THE FIRST THREE ROWS
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Determine the starting wall, usually the longest or outside foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out
the width of the board including the tongue, plus the expansion space, and place a mark. An expansion gap must be left
around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions. This gap will be the same as the thickness of the new flooring. For
example; 1/2” flooring requires 1/2” expansion gap.
Snap a chalk line connecting the two marks. Align the tongue side of the first row of boards on the chalk line with the groove
side towards the starting wall, maintain the expansion space.
Install the flooring with the tongue side facing away from the starting wall(Use long straight planks for first two rows).
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 8 of 16
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Pre-drill and top nail the first row of boards using a 3/32” drill bit and 6d finishing nails about an 1” from the back edge.
Pneumatic finish nail guns or brad nail guns can also be used. If hand nailing countersink the finish nail using a nail punch and
fill with close matching wood filler. Blind nail the 2nd and 3rd rows using the flooring stapler, and seat the staples slightly above
the tongue.
STEP 2: LOOSE LAY (Rack) THE FLOORING
After installation of the first three rows, loose lay about 100sqft of flooring about 4” or 5” away from the last secured row. Pull from
several boxes to mix board color and sizes to create a random look. Visually inspect flooring for defects while racking. Stagger boards
randomly as possible, avoid creating patterns. See picture for proper layout guidance.
(pic1) Staggering board randomly adds strength to the total floor
(pic2)
Avoid “stair step” and “H” patterns. Avoid lining-up board ends and spacing boards closer than 6”
STEP 3: INSTALLATION CONTINUED
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After racking out 100sqft of flooring begin nailing the floor using a engineered floor stapler. (See fastener recommendations).
Visually inspect boards for defects while nailing. Use proper fastener spacing (See fastener spacing). Continue nailing until
you get to the last one or two rows. The lasts one or two rows will have to be top nailed. Again pre-drill using a 3/32” drill bit
and 6d finishing nails.
The last rows can be pulled tightly together using a floor Jack or pry bar. Protect base boards before using these tools.
The last row may have to be ripped down in width to fit. If the last row is less than 1” in width use a PVA carpenters wood
glue to join the last piece to the previous row.
STEP 4: FINISHING UP
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Fill in nail holes and minor gaps with close matching wood filler.
Install any base board molding and shoe molding
Install transition moldings
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 9 of 16
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Sweep the floor
Clean floor with approved cleaner (contact you’re flooring retailer for approved cleaner).
Use felt pads under furniture legs. Protect floor before moving appliances and heavy furniture.
GLUE DOWN OVERVIEW
[CAUTION] Most installation failures result from jobsite moisture.
Do not unpack or deliver flooring to the jobsite until moisture problems are corrected.
Note that flooring adhesives may have special requirements and limitations of use. Follow closely the adhesive labeling instructions and
adhesive Technical Data Sheet pertaining to moisture testing procedures, moisture barriers, and trowel size recommendations.
Depending on the selection and application of a particular adhesive, you may be required to use moisture barriers. Adhesive Technical
Data Sheets can be found on the adhesive manufacture’s website. When in doubt about an adhesive application or requirement call the
adhesive manufacturer. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations can prevent installation failure and maintain
your warranty.
[TIPS]:
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Place saw equipment outside in an area where they can be reached without having to walk across the flooring
Install the flooring parallel to the longest wall or foundation wall in the room. Keep the flooring straight using a chalk line
Select flooring from several cartons to mix color, grain and shade.
Discard twisted or warped boards.
Do not mix adhesive products or glue to concrete sealers
Follow the glue manufacturer’s labeling instructions regarding adhesive set time, correct trowel size, removal of surface
sealers or contaminates and use of moisture barriers
Glue manufacture may or may not require rolling the floor throughout installation to ensure glue transfer, refer to adhesive
labeling instructions.
Apply adhesives perpendicular to the direction of the flooring. Both Bostik and Mapei require proper glue-to-board coverage.
Check adhesive bucket for proper trowel size and spread rate recommendations. Typically, trowel size is determined by board
type, size and surface texture.
Occasionally pull up a plank to verify if proper adhesive transfer is being achieved.
Use the trowel size recommended by the adhesive company to get required spread rate and ridging height. Typically, trowel
size is determined by board type, size and surface texture. Check adhesive bucket for trowel size recommendations.
During constant use trowel teeth will wear down, for best glue coverage use a new trowel with each new container of
adhesive.
Blue painter tape #2080 can be used to keep rows or sections of floor boards together until the adhesive has cured.
(Incorrect or aggressive tape can harm the finish, do not leave on overnight) Tape 4 or 5 board rows together during
installation.
Many installers choose to use straps or clamps in an effort to force board rows tighter together during installation. Be advised
that over-strapping can adversely affect the floor and may result in glue-bond failure, seam peaking, twisted boards or out-ofsquare floor board alignment.
SUBFLOOR PREPARATION
Concrete substrates must free of surface sealers or contaminates.
Because concrete generally takes 15 days to dry for every 1 inch (25 mm) of thickness, the concrete must be between 60 to 90 days
old prior to moisture testing/installation
Moisture testing (Concrete Subfloors)
Test concrete substrates in several locations for best averages. If test results show moisture vapor exceeds the maximum
requirements for the adhesive do not install. Adhesives such as; Exmore EX3 Max, Bostik UltraGrip do not require Calcium Chloride
testing over concrete prior to installation. The Bostik MVP moisture barrier also does not require Calcium Chloride testing prior to
installation. Review the Technical Data Sheets of these products before application.
Acceptable industry standards ASTM for moisture testing
In-Situ Probe Method (ASTM F 2170): The Relative Humidity levels should not exceed 75%.
Calcium Chloride Test (ASTM F 1869): The maximum vapor emissions cannot exceed 3lbs/1000SF in 24 hours.
Concrete Moisture Meters; Tramex Encounter: Not acceptable as an industry standard.
When using the Calcium Chloride Test (ASTM F-1869) three Calcium Chloride tests are needed for the first 1,000sqft. Add one
additional test for each 1,000 square feet thereafter. For example a job of 3,000 sqft would require 5 Calcium Chloride tests to be
performed. Results of 3lbs or less per 1000 sqft are considered dry and appropriate for wood installations. Use proper moisture barriers
when concrete exceeds 3lbs.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 10 of 16
Contact your local Lumber Liquidators for Calcium Chloride Test kits.
moisture barrier product don’t require Calcium Chloride testing.
Exmore Maxx and Bostik UltraGrip adhesive and Bostik’s MVP
Flat concrete
• A flat cement surface is very important when gluing down ridged wood. To minimize squeaks and gaps the final surface must be flat
to within 1/8" in 6’ radius or within 3/16” in 10’ radius. Sand or grind down high spots. Fill valleys or low areas with cement based
leveling compounds compatible with the flooring adhesives. Allow extra drying time for the leveling compounds. Concrete that is not
properly leveled can cause improper adhesive transfer, hollow spots, and squeaks.
Check Concrete for Sealers

All paint, adhesives, dust, debris, and sealers must be removed from the concrete prior to gluing down engineered wood
flooring. To check for a sealer on the concrete spill a small cup size amount of water onto the concrete surface. If the water
beads up, and does not soak into the concrete, a sealer is present. The sealer will have to be removed before continuing with
the glue down installation of wood flooring. Check with adhesive manufacture for recommendations on sealer removal.

CAUTION: Do not sand any surfaces containing lead based paints, finishes, or asbestos.
For buildings built in 1978 and earlier, contact the EPA for lead based testing prior to any sanding
(www.epa.gov).
RECOMMENDED ADHESIVES






Exmore EX3 Basic --------Domestic wood adhesive.
Exmore EX3 Pro ----------Domestic and Exotic wood adhesive.
Exmore EX3 Pro Plus-----2 n- 1 adhesive, sound control, and moisture vapor protection.
Limits; Up to 15lbs of elevated concrete moisture or 95% relative humidity.
Exmore EX3 MAX-------2-n-1 adhesive, sound control and moisture vapor protection.
Limits: the concrete must be prepared properly and dry to the touch to properly bond.
www.mapei.com
Mapei ECO 995------ 2-in-1 urethane adhesive and Moisture Vapor Protection.
Limits; Up to 15lbs of elevated concrete moisture or 85% relative humidity
Mapei ECO 980 ------ adhesive only.
Technical Services
1-800- 992-6273, 1-800-876-2734 (USA)
1-800-361- 9309 (Canada)
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________





www.bostik-us.com
Bostiks UltraGrip ----- 2-in-1 urethane adhesive, sound control, and Moisture Vapor Protection
Limits: the concrete must be prepared properly and dry to the touch to properly bond.
Bostiks Seal-n-Grip ---2-in-1 urethane adhesive, sound control, and Moisture Vapor Protection
Limits; Up to 15lbs of elevated concrete moisture or 85% relative humidity.
Bostiks DuraGrip ------ adhesive only.
Bostiks BBA ------------ adhesive only.
Bostiks MVP ------------ Moisture Vapor Protection/Sound control.
Limits: the concrete must be prepared properly and dry to the touch.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 11 of 16
Technical Services : 1-800-523-6530
1-800-726-7845
1-888-592-8558
[CAUTION]: Cured adhesive may cloud, chemically damage or etch the floor’s finish.
Clean wet adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently using the manufacturers recommended remover. Use clean towels,
changing frequently to prevent haze and adhesive residue. Contact the adhesive manufacturer for dried adhesive removal remedies
INSTALLATION PREP
Use a manual or electric jamb saw to undercut all wood door jambs/casing to allow enough clearance for the wood flooring to easily
slide underneath. A credit card thick gap between the top of the wood flooring and bottom of the door jamb is acceptable. Sand or
grind down high spots. Correct low spots (See subfloor prep). Sweep or vacuum the subfloor clean off dust and debris.
STEP 1: GLUE DOWN INSTRUCTIONS
Install in good lighting. Inspect the flooring often. Make adjustments as needed. If satisfied, continue with the installation. 100sqft of
installed flooring is enough to verify quality or 20sqft for areas under 100sqft.










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
Determine the starting wall, usually the longest wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out the width of 5 planks,
add the expansion space to that measurement, and place a mark on the subfloor. (do not include the tongue when measuring
the width of the planks.)
Next, use a chalk line to connect the two marks. Tack down furring wood strips along the straight chalk line. You can also use
carpet tack strips. This will give you support to push your first row of flooring against. Use concrete nails when attaching the
furring strips to concrete subfloors.
Measure out from your first chalk line the width of 5 planks on each side, and pop another chalk line. This chalk line will run
parallel to the first chalk line.
Rack out 5 rows of flooring starting at the second chalk line. Be sure to pull from several flooring boxes at a time to mix color,
while keeping proper seam stagger. (See loose lay/rack flooring Pic 1 install randomly)
Using an approved trowel and wood flooring adhesive, spread the glue between the furring wood strips and second chalk line.
Do not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area. If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread
new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to the subfloor
Start placing the racked out flooring into the adhesive. If you’re facing the starting wall, install the flooring left to right. The
groove side of the planks should be facing away from the starting wall. Push the first row up tight against the furring wood
strips.
Progressively lay-in the next rows by inserting the tongue into the groove of the previous row at a 30 degree angle, then drop
board into adhesive. Avoid dragging or sliding boards together as this can trap or squeeze glue up in between the boards
creating gaps. Continue working 5 rows together. The last board in each row will need to be cut to fit.
The balance of a board cut may be used to start a new row, discard lengths under 6”. Avoid clustering of end joints. Stagger
the ends of the boards correctly. A tapping block can be used to gently tap the boards into proper position. During installation,
end gaps between board ends can be minimized by temporarily locking a completed row in place by using spacers placed
between the first and the last board of each row, remove when glue has dried.
Apply #2080 blue painters tape to the plank surface perpendicular to the installed floor. This is used to hold the planks
together.
Continue adding new chalk lines using the previous techniques. Spread adhesive and continue installing 5 rows at a time until
job is complete. Tape planks together as needed to keep them from separating.
Remove wet adhesive immediately using mineral spirits or the adhesive manufacturer’s remover product.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE LAST ROWS


Most often, the entire length of the last row will need to be trimmed so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. It
should be glued and wedged with wood shims into place. Leave all spacers/shims in the expansion space until the adhesive
has cured, then remove. Keep the floor free from foot traffic, until adhesive has cured.
Go back to the starting wall and pull up the furring wood strip or carpet tack strip. Spread adhesive onto the subfloor, and
install the last boards needed to finish the job. Install these boards right to left. Use wood shims between the wall and floor to
keep the last few boards tight together. Blue painter’s tape #2080 can also be used.
Post-installation

When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent drying and difficulty in spreading the adhesive. Proper
ventilation within the room should be provided. Follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.

Remove blue painters tape after 8 to 10 hours being on the flooring.
•
After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and heavy foot traffic.
•
Protect flooring before moving any heavy furniture or appliances. (damages from furniture and appliances are not covered)
•
Fill in minor gaps with close matching wood filler
•
Check for adhesive on floor finish and remove with appropriate adhesive manufacture remover.
•
For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.
•
Clean flooring with the Bellawood Floor Care Kit or products safe for urethane finishes
DOUBLE STICK INSTALLATION – Flooring glued over an approved underlayment that is also glued to the subfloor
Approved underlayments – Bellawood Premium, Bellawood Platinum, Eco Silent Sound, Insulayment, Cork
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 12 of 16
Allow the underlayment to fully cure before gluing wood flooring to the underlayment. Not all adhesives and underlayments are
compatible contact Technical dept. for application details
FLOATING FLOOR INSTRUCTIONS
During installation, Carpenters PVA Floating Floor Wood adhesive should be applied to each groove on the short and long
sides of the planks to ensure bond with the other planks. Two separate continuous beads of glue should be applied: one
continuous bead applied inside the groove, and one continuous bead applied to the top part of the tongue at all seams to ensure a
secure bond with the top and bottom of the tongue. This double-gluing helps to minimize squeaks, board gaps, or separation. Note
that seasonal gapping is normal in wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure. Seasonal gapping can be minimized by
keeping the indoor humidity above 30%.
Floating floor expansion
Perimeter expansion space for room areas 30’x30’ and under is ½”. Room areas exceeding 30’x30’ expansion space is ¾”
No spans or connected flooring can be greater than 40’ in any direction without an expansion break. A connected area is defined as
all room areas using the same flooring, connected. Expansion breaks can be placed in doorways, between rooms, and at the
beginning of hallways to break up areas that exceed 40’ in length or width. Expansion breaks can be hidden using T- type expansion
moldings.
Complete floor preparation as earlier outlined, next install a moisture barrier (6-8mm sheet plastic) over cement, kitchen vinyl and
ceramic tiles. Omit plastic moisture barrier when installing directly over bare wood subflooring.
FLOATING INSTALLATION
(1) Make sure subfloor is clean, dry, free of squeaks, and flat to within 1/8” over 6’ or 3/16” over 10’.
(2) Install recommended underlayment such as: Bellawood Platinum, Bellawood Premium underlayment, Eco Silent Sound
HD, Quiet Walk, Insulayment or Cork. Install underlayment parallel to the direction of the flooring. Install the underlayment
according to the underlayment manufactures installation instructions.
(3) Determine the starting wall, usually the longest or outside foundation wall. At the two opposite ends of this wall, measure out
the width of the board, and place a mark. (Do not include the tongue of the board when measuring). An Expansion gap or space
must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions. This space is normally the same as the thickness of the new
flooring, for example; 1/2” flooring requires 1/2” expansion.
(4) Snap a chalk line connecting the two marks. Tack down fern strips or carpet tack strips along the chalk line.
(5) Install the first row of flooring against the tacked wood strips.
(6) The flooring should be installed from left to right, tongue side towards the wall, with the groove side facing out from the wall.
(7) Install the first row end to end until the entire row is complete. Be sure to use PVA carpenters wood glue on all plank butt ends
(8) When edge-gluing, ensure that the glue is still wet when the planks are joined. Special attention should be paid to ensure that
there is no excess glue dripping to the subfloor as this could bond the plank to the underlayment and hamper floor movement. A
lightly water dampened rag can also be used to remove any PVA glue.
(9) Next, install the second row of planks, installing left to right. Each plank should be installed long side first into the previous row.
Make sure carpenters PVA wood glue is applied to all tongue and groove seams. Insert a spacer at the wall, then install the long
side of the plank into the previous row. Once the tongue is inserted into the groove fold the plank down onto the subfloor. The
butt ends will be lightly tapped over from right to left to close the end seams. Be sure to keep a minimum stagger of 6” between
end seams from row to row. Use a pry bar to close the end seam of the last plank installed in each row.
(10) After installing 4 or 5 rows apply #2080 blue painters tape to the plank surface perpendicular to the installed floor. This is used
to hold the planks together until the glue cures. (incorrect tape can damage the finish)
(11) Continue installing the flooring until you reach the opposite wall in the room. The last row of flooring by the wall may need to be
ripped down to fit. Make sure you have proper expansion space between the last installed row and the wall.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 13 of 16
(12) Go back to the first row of flooring, remove the fern strip or tack strip and insert the final row of flooring to complete the room
installation. Make sure proper expansion is left between the floor and wall.
(13) Remove the blue painters tape after 8 to 10hrs.
(14) To pass obstacles through the floor covering (pipes, radiator mounts), use a pencil to trace the center position for drilling. Use a
big enough drill bit to leave a ½” expansion around the pipe. A jig saw may be needed for bigger rounded cuts. Next, cut the
strip in two so that the saw mark goes through the center of the drilled hole, so that the strip can be glued and reassembled
around the pipe.
Post-installation
•
•
•
•
•
•
After installation, allow glue to fully cure for 24 hrs before replacing furniture and heavy foot traffic.
Protect flooring before moving any heavy furniture or appliances. (damages from furniture and appliances are not covered)
Fill in minor gaps with close matching wood filler
Check for adhesive on floor finish and remove with appropriate adhesive manufacture remover.
For best matching of sheen or milling save a box of flooring for future repairs.
Clean floor with Bellawood Floor Cleaner.
MOLDINGS & TRANSITIONS:
Installation Tips:
•
Install transition moldings directly to the subflooring. Pre-drill and hand nail transitions moldings to wood subfloors using 6d
finishing nails. Pneumatic 18ga. Brad nail guns can also be used to secure transition moldings. Use a wood urethane tube
adhesive to bond wood transitions to concrete subfloors.
•
Acclimate wood moldings for best results
•
The tool of choice for cutting hardwood moldings is a 10” or 12” motorized miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic
miter cuts at 22.5°, 45°, and 90°.
•
A 60 tooth or 80 tooth carbide tipped fine finish blade makes the best cuts. Be sure the saw blade rotation is positioned to cut
into the finished face.
•
Attach wall base or quarter round moldings to the wall, never into the floor.
•
Mitered cuts hide better when joining moldings.
1) Base Board – for hiding imperfections and adding a custom finish along any wall.
2) Quarter-Round - for covering the expansion left at walls and other fixed surfaces.
3 & 6) Reducer Moldings - used to transition to lower floors.
4) Stair Nosing - for finishing the exposed edges of stairs and landings.
5) T-Expansion - for joining two areas of flooring of similar heights.
7) End Cap - for finishing the space at sliding glass doors, at bath tubs or transitioning to carpet.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 14 of 16
HARDWOOD REPAIRS (Scratches, nicks, dents)
•Minor white scratches can be repaired with a wood stain marker. Nicks and dents can be filled with a wood blend stick or color wood
epoxy stick. Major damage may require individual board replacements.
SEASONAL CHANGES - What to Expect (all installation methods)
Seasonal gapping should be expected in all wood flooring and does not constitute a product failure.
It is normal that wood floors will be affected by fluctuating levels of humidity within the building. Care should be taken to control
humidity levels to within the 30-50% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, note
recommendations below:
• (Dry) Heating Season - A humidifier may be needed to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood
stoves, radiant floor heat and electric heat will create dryer conditions.
• (Humid, Wet) Non-Heating Season - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Avoid
excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct expansion joints around the perimeter of your floor.
Radiant Heat Systems
Because of the wide array of systems on the market (Hydronic, embedded in concrete, electrical wire/coil, heating film/mat) each with
its own features and applications please consult with your heating provider for their recommended installation methods. It’s the user’s
responsibility to confirm the application or suitability of any selected radiant-heating system.
For a list of radiant heat approved Virginia Mill Works Engineered floors, go to the Lumber Liquidators website
(www.lumberliquidators.com ) click the Flooring 101 link. Then type “radiant heat approved engineered floor list” in the
search feature to locate the pdf file.
The flooring must be installed with the nail down, glue down method, or floating method in strict accordance with these installation
guidelines, and with the following additional conditions that also must be met or followed.
The radiant heat system must have been tested and in operation for a few weeks prior to installation.
The radiant heating system needs to be turned off prior to installation and the floor needs to be close to room temperature 65 to 75
degrees. If the radiant heat pipes are visible or exposed in the subfloor, you must cover them with 3/8” plywood to spread heat more
evenly.
After the flooring is installed, slowly raise the temperature to the preferred comfort level (over at least a 5 day timeframe) beginning
two days after installation or at the onset of colder weather conditions.
The radiant heat system must be controlled and the surface temperature of the flooring must never be allowed to exceed 85°F (28° C).
Proper relative humidity must be maintained within your home at all times during the year. This range is 30% to 50% RH. If you are in
an arid part of the USA or Canada, it is especially imperative that you use a humidifying system to maintain this moisture in the air.
Forced air heating system also can dry out the air inside your house much more than you might imagine, so use of a Relative Humidity
meter is recommended to ensure you know when you must use a humidifier to keep the relative humidity above 30%
.
Even when these guidelines are followed it is still possible that your flooring may experience some cracks (seasonal checking) on the
plank surface and/or gapping between planks due to slight shrinkage. Our non-warranted wood species are not warranted specifically
because they are much more susceptible to these problems, on a bigger scale. On a radiant heat system our warranted wood species
will perform the best, but even so these symptoms of being to dry inside the house are not covered by this warranty.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
1. Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
2. For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, apply mineral spirits on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with
a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
3. Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with a recommended hard floor attachment (not a beater bar) to prevent accumulation
of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
4. Periodically clean the floor with the Bellawood floor cleaner.
5. Do not use hot wet steamers or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This
could cause swelling, warping, delamination, joint-line separation, checks, and finish peeling at the edges.
6. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
7. Do not use buffing or polishing machines, these can generate heat or hot spots.
8. For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a
credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
9. A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.
Protection
1. Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be
tracked onto your floor.
2. Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor the flooring finish. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl
rug underlayment approved for urethane finishes.
3. Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule,
the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
Page 15 of 16
4. Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 30%-50% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and
contraction of the wood.
5. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
6. Do not walk on your floor with stiletto heels, sports cleats, or with shoes that have exposed metal parts.
7. Do not allow sharp, pointed, or rough textured objects to be exposed to the hardwood flooring.
8. Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
9. UV sunlight will enhance –lighten or darken- the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees. Periodically rearranging
your area rugs and furniture will allow the floor to antique or age evenly.
10. Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances; but first, put down a piece of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect
the floor. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor.
11. A protective mat should be used for furniture or chairs with castors.
12. Use cleaning products safe for urethane finishes; never use oil soaps, wax, liquid or other household products to clean your floor.
13. We do not endorse the use of hot steam cleaning machines on hard wood products, use at your own risk.
14. Toys and tools can scratch the finishes, scratches and dents are jobsite related, not warrantable.
15. If using the glue-down installation method, do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours.
APPROVED UNDERLAYMENTS FOR ENGINEERED WOOD
Depending on the application, our flooring can be installed (nailed, glued, or floated) over an approved underlayment to meet the
needs of customers, building architects and condominium associations desiring greater thermal insulation and sound isolation qualities.
Note that when using an approved underlayment, pad or cushion there can always be some slight movement, deflection or friction,
squeaks or floor noise with any application. Floor noise is normal, to be expected and will vary from one installation type to the next or
related to sub-floor type, flatness, deflection, and or related to the type of flooring material, species, the fasteners, relative humidity
and the amount of topside pressure applied to the flooring. Therefore for these reasons floor noise is not considered a product or
manufacturer defect.
UNDERLAYMENTS
(Nail down)
15 lb felt paper do not overlap seems
White Silicon Vapor Shield®,
Bellawood Premium, install (film side up) Flooring minimum (≥3/8”thickness)
Bellawood Platinum: install (film side up) Flooring minimum (≥3/8”thickness)
Eco Silent Sound, install (film side down or up) Flooring minimum (≥3/8”thickness)
Dream Home Insulayment, install (smooth side up) Flooring minimum (≥3/8”thickness)
Dream Home Cork (3mm), install (smooth side up) Flooring minimum (≥3/8”thickness)
Do not use plastic poly-sheeting over wood subfloors
(Glue down)
Bellawood Premium, install (film side up)
Bellawood Platinum, install (film side up)
Eco Silent Sound install (film side down)
Dream Home Insulayment, install (smooth side up)
Dream Home Cork install (smooth side up)
(Float)
Bellawood Premium, install (film side up)
Bellawood Platinum, install (film side up)
Eco Silent Sound install (film side down)
Dream Home Insulayment, install (smooth side up)
Dream Home Cork install (smooth side up)
Quiet Walk; install (film side up)
**Dream Home 6mil poly sheeting is recommended over all concrete subfloors when floating this product. Do not use poly sheeting
over wood subfloors.*
ENGINEERED WOOD APPLICATIONS
FLOOR PLACEMENTS
ABOVE GRADE
ON GRADE
BELOW GRADE
SUBFLOOR TYPES
CONCRETE
GYPCRETE
OSB
¾” min
PLYWOOD
5/8” min
PARTICLE BOARD
ASPHALT TILE
FIRM LINOLEUM
FIRM KITCHEN VYNYL
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
NAIL
yes
yes
yes
GLUE
yes
yes
yes
FLOAT
yes
yes
yes
no
no
yes
yes
no
no
yes
yes
no
yes
yes
no
no
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes (consult with glue
manufacture for prep)
yes (consult with glue
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
yes
Page 16 of 16
manufacture for prep)
VCT VINYL TILES
STEEL
no
no
no
yes (consult with glue
CERAMIC/MARBLE
no
manufacture for prep)
yes (consult with glue
manufacture for prep)
CUSHION VYNYL
RUBBER TILES
no
no
no
no
yes
yes
yes
no
no
CAUTION:
WOOD DUST Cut wood flooring outside
Sawing, sanding and machining wood products can produce dust. Airborne wood dust can cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation.
The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.
Precautionary Measures: Cut flooring outside. Equip power tools with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered;
use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eye and skin, USE EYE AND EAR PROTECTION.
First Aid Measures in case of irritation: flush/rinse eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.
TO OBTAIN ASSISTANCE WITH PRODUCT INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT THE STORE OF ORIGINAL PURCHASE OR CONTACT CUSTOMER
CARE AT 800-366-4204
VISIT “FLOORING 101” or www.lumberliquidators.com
FOR INSTALLATION TIPS AND ADDITIONAL WARRANTY
INFORMATION.
Form: INSTALL – Virginia Mill Works Engineered
Issued: 09/22/2015 rev 1
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