Bayliner 1984 Trophy Owner Manual


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Bayliner 1984 Trophy Owner Manual | Manualzz
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OWNERS MANUAL
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Welcome Aboard
The purpose of this manual is to inform and familiarize both the novice
and seasoned skipper with his new equipment. It will not tell you everything
there is to know about boating, but will assist with the operation of equip-
ment built and supplied by Bayliner. (Equipment, specifications and price
subject to change without notice.) When your Bayliner needs service, see
your authorized Bayliner dealer.
Understanding your new boat and how it works is essential to boating
enjoyment and your safety. We recommend a four-step program for full
pleasure.
1. Make certain you get a full explanation of all systems from your
dealer before taking delivery.
2. Read this manual thoroughly, with particular emphasis on these
points:
Starting, Checking for fumes, Alcohol stoves, Carbon monox-
ide, Loading limits, Trim tabs, Safety suggestions, Limited
warranty.
3. Practice. All members of the family should be familiar with boat
operation and how all systems work.
4, Register for local power squadron safe boating course or equivalent.
Table of Contents
SECTION |
Recommended Procedures:
Launching ......... cee A a ae 4
Fueling and Checking for Fumes. ........................ 4
11611410 M ee 5
Carbon Monoxide .............. 0. rece 6
Controls 1111011110 44 44 44e 4 4 a 44 A 4 a a Na ee A ene 6
Safety Inspections 20010404 64 aa reee e 7
Trailer ee ec ee 8
How to Back Up Your Trailer .............. ............... 9
Getting Away From the Dock ........................... 10
Practice Maneuvers Under Power ................ ........ 10
Docking eee 4 11
SECTION Hi
Parts and Systems—Operations and Maintenance
Electrica! Systems .......... 2.0.0.0 recrea 13
Battery AS 14
Fuses and Circuit Breakers — TV ...................... 14
Dockside Power . ......... ee 0 16
110/12v Refrigerätor ‚1.0.0000 KK KK 17
Hot Water Heater RR 17
Generator (3250 - 3870 models) ......................... 17
Battery Charger (3250 - 3870 models) .................... 18
Battery Charger (2450 - 2850 models) .................... 18
Wiring Diagrams ‚RK 19-24
Fuel Systems ................ 0079000 eri. 25
Freshwater System ...............0.0.0800 rx. 3er aa, 0. 27
Starter Motor .............. 2.0. eareriacar navarro, 28
Bilge Blower . .. ... e rerrere o en 28
Bilge Pump RR ane 0 29
Running Lights ................. iii... 29
Windshield Wiper ............ 2.2. arre daa e. 29
Head Operation:
Marine Head with Holding Tank ......................... 29
Portable Heads:
Passport ee aa 30
Sanipottie .. 1010044404 4 ea na 4 à eee 31
Holding Tank Valve Chart ............ iii... 32
Alcohol Stoves ............ eredea ano. 33
Electric Alcohol Stoves ...................... cL, 34
Electric Stove Operation ................................. 34
Propane Stoves ................. ie 34
Loading Limits, Hardtops, Cabin Tops, Command Bridges .... 34
Transom Platforms ....... ...... .. a 34
Stuffing Box Packing . ............... aa 35
SECTION III
Underway Operation Instructions:
Instruments... aa aaenrada a 36
Boat Performance ........................ ......... ... 36
Boat Running Attitude ..................... ........._.. 37
Trim Tabs (optional) ................................... 37
Operating Dual Station Boats ........................... 38
Steering Wheel Pressure ........... ae 38
Static Float Attitude .......... LL LL LL LA LA LL LL 39
Tips for Boat Owners ............... ivi .. 39
Boating Safety Courses ............. LL 39
SECTION IV
General Maintenance and Repairs:
Fiberglass Staining and Discoloration .................... 40
Hardware Cleaning ..................... .. .... .. ..... 40
Vinyl Upholstery ......... Na aa AR LL 40
Vinyl Flooring ... 1002122120 A aa LL VAL LAS 40
Textured Vinyl Wall Coverings ........... ваевонь, 40
Structafoam Transom Platforms and Steps ................ 40
Teak ..... aerea aarecrroonencarao 41
Repairing Fiberglass, Gelcoat Chips, Gouges and Scratches . 41
Special Care for Boats That Are Moored .................. 42
Underwater Corrosion ......... in. 42
Cabin Windows... ........... aereo 42
Window Leakage ............. i, 43
Convertible Tops and Back Covers ....................... 43
Instruments — Care and Service ........................ 43
SECTION V
Winterizing .......... ea enrarenaaCecocarena, 44
SECTION VI
Propeller Recommendations ......................... .. .. 45
SECTION VII
Recommendations for Safety ....................... .... .. 48
SECTION VII
Nautical Terms ea aoenrerodr oo, 51
LIMITED WARRANTY FOR BAYLINER BOATS ............ 52
YOUR OBLIGATION ........ edo 52
Section |
Recommended Procedures for Launching,
Fueling, Operating, Safety Inspecting,
Trailering and Docking Your Boalt.
IMPORTANT: At the time of the first launching of your new Bayliner,
it is very important the procedure noted below be followed. Bayliner
power boats in the 1600 through 2850 series are water-tested at our
factories on a random sample basis only. Therefore, your new Bayliner
must be checked closely when first launched.
Launching
1.
2.
Each Bayliner power boat is equipped with a transom drain plug. Make
sure this plug is in place and tight.
Inspect the bottom of your new Bayliner and make a mental note of
all fittings below the waterline. Then proceed with the launching.
Once in the water, immediately board your boat and inspect the motor
compartment for signs of leakage. Check the area of any other through-
the-hull fittings for signs of leakage.
If any leaks are noted, the boat should be removed from the water.
If the selling dealer is not present, he should be notified so the leaks
may be repaired before relaunching the boat.
Fueling and Checking for Fumes
1.
o
Prior to fueling, extinguish all open lights, close all hatches, windows
and other doorways, stop all engines, motors, fans, and other devices
liable to produce sparks.
Inboard models are fitted with a through-the-deck fitting marked “Fuel”.
Remove the cap and insert the fuel nozzle, allowing the nozzle to make
contact with the through-the-deck fitting. This contact will protect
against static electricity.
Open the motor box or deck hatch, exposing the motor/fuel tank area,
and proceed with filling the tank. After 10 or 15 gallons have been
pumped in, stop to inspect the area of the engine and fuel tank for
signs of leakage or fumes. If nothing is detected, proceed with fuel-
ing. When the tank is full, again check the motor/tuel tank area.
Install the fuel cap.
Wash down the area around the fuel fill with fresh water.
In the case of portable fuel tanks on outboards, remove tanks from
the boat for filling. IMPORTANT: Outboard fuel should be a mix of
oil and gas. The first 12 gallons of fuel should contain one quart
of oil to every six gallons of gas. Later, use one pint of oil to six
4
gallons of gas. Follow the instructions printed on the gas cans
provided by Bayliner. (1 part oil to 50 parts gas.) Once filled, they
should be hosed down and wiped off before being replaced in the boat.
NOTE: Some portable tanks have vent screws which must be open
to operate the outboard engine,
On very hot days allow for expansion. Do not fill the fuel tank
completely.
if, when filling the tank, you can’t put fuel in at a reasonable rate, check
the fuel vent line to see that it's not kinked or plugged.
A periodic check should be made of the engine/fuel tank area. Any
sign of fuel seepage or fumes should be investigated and the cause
repaired prior to operating the boat.
Starting
With the motor box or floor hatch still open, proceed as follows to start
the engine.
1,
Gheck the engine oil level, test alternator/water pump belts for ten-
sion and check entire engine area to see that everything is in its proper
place. IMPORTANT: Check entire area visually as well as by sniff
ing to insure that no fuel vapors are present, Check transmission
oil level on inboard models.
Turn on blower and run it for four minutes. Do hot turn blower off until
you are underway and at cruising speed.
Advance the throttle fully to set the automatic choke, then pump the
throttle two or three times and turn the ignition key fo the start position.
As soon as the engine starts, set the engine speed at 1200 r.p.m.s
and check your oil pressure. Oil pressure will vary from one engine
to another, but it should come up immediately. If it doesn't, shut the
engine down,
When the oil pressure checks “OK”, check the engine again for fuel
vapors or fuel leakage. Give particular attention to all fuel fittings. Also
check for any sign of water. Water leaking from the engine might in-
dicate the blockdrain plugs are open.
WARNING: Gasoline Vapors Are Highly Explosive. To prevent ex-
plosion and fire, check engine and fuel compartments before each
use for fumes or accumulation of fuel. Always operate blower for
at least four minutes before starting, during starting and when
operating below cruising speeds.
If everything checks “OK”, close the motor box floor hatch.
7. Return to the helm and check the volt meter. The volt meter should
be in the green at 12-14 volts. The temperature gauge should start
coming up.
8. Now bring the engine back to an idle. Idle r.p.m. should be 600-800
when the engine is warm.
9. WARNING: CARBON MONOXIDE IS A POISONOUS GAS.
Idling at the dock for long periods of time, or running your boat
with the camper back cover or slant cover installed without ade-
quate ventilation can result in dangerous accumulations of car-
bon monoxide gas inside the boat. Always remove the canvas or
otherwise ventilate the boat when operating the engines.
Controls
With the boat tied securely to the dock, advance the shift control to
forward. Bring back to neutral, hesitate and bring the shift lever back to
reverse, Return lever to neutral. The boat thrust should correspond to the
shift lever position. When shifting in or out of gear, move the shift lever
firmly and quickly.
On inboard and stern drive models, have someone watch the rudder
or lower unit while you turn the steering wheel to port and to starboard.
When you turn to port, the rudder or outdrive should swing to port. The
same is true for outboard powered boats.
If you have followed the procedures above, then the most important
functions of your boat have been checked. Any discrepancies noted should
be reported to your dealer immediately. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE
YOUR BOAT UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS CORRECTED. If everything checks
out OK, you're ready to go boating. Have Fun!!!
For maximum safety and fun afloat, the procedures above should be
followed each time you operate your boat. They are not just for beginners.
Seasoned skippers, like airplane pilots, perform these checks each time
they launch, fuel or operate their boats.
Safety Inspection
1.
You should check to make sure you have the following safety items,
tools and spare parts on boats.
Fire extinguisher
Life preservers—one for each person aboard, one throwable
flotation device, all with a Coast Guard approval tag.
Boat hook or paddle
Fenders
Lines
Chart for intended operation area
Flashlight
Flares, night and day types
Small tool box with:
Philips head screwdriver, slot head screwdriver, pliers, vise-grip,
regular open-end wrenches, electrical tape, Alien wrenches, jack-
knife, hacksaw, hammer, feeler gauges, lubricating oil, battery
jumper cables, friction tape, water pump pliers, ratchet, sockets,
extension, hose clamps, screws, bolts, nuts, washers, waterproof
matches.
NOTE: Metric tools are required for diesel engines.
Spare Parts
Alternator belt and/or water pump belt
Gear lubricant
Cabin lights, courtesy bulb number GE94 or GE90
WD-40 (rust inhibitor)
Navigation light bulb number GE-90 or GE1004
Dome lights number GE-1141
Propeller nut and washer
Drive pin, if required
Spare propeller
Fuse numbers—AGC10/12/15/30
Instruct passengers in the use and location of life jackets and fire
extinguishers.
Check your self-contained head. It should be charged with a fresh
chemical solution before starting a trip.
Check your water system, It should be filled and the operation of the
manual or pressure pump should be tested. On those models with
a pressure system, there is an off/on switch located in the galley that
activates the pressure pump. Your pressure pump system has a switch
in the galley area that activites the pressure pump. When your water
tank runs dry, you should shut off the pump as continuous running
when dry will damage the pump.
НОО OO
LI EJE OOO
5.
Bilge pumps work well if their intakes are kept clear of debris and the
outlet hose is kept free. Cccasional checking of operation is advised.
Don't run your pump dry. Add a little water to the bilge and pump out
to make certain it is operating properly.
Trailer
1.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Purchase a trailer with the proper capacity rating. A trailer that is
sprung to carry more weight will ride too roughly and can damage
your boat. Too little trailer capacity will be unsafe on the freeway, and
will not meet legal requirements.
Consult your state laws as to brake requirements, and check brakes
for proper operation prior to departure on each trip.
Check tires for proper inflation. Under-inflated tires heat up rapidly
and tire damage is likely to occur.
Wheel bearings should be checked at least every 90 days and before
putting your boat away for the season.
Your boat should be fastened to the trailer by a line from the bow eye
to the winch line PLUS a safety chain or cable to the winch stand or
trailer tongue. The stern of your boat should be tied down to the trailer
from the stern eyes.
Check to be sure the taillights and turn signals work when attached
to the towing vehicle. Some automobiles require heavy duty flasher
units to make turn signals work properly.
Your trailer should support your new boat in as many places as pos-
sible and be adjusted so the load is well divided among the support-
ing rollers or pads. Occasional lubrication of the rollers aids in launch-
ing and retrieving your boat.
Too much or too little tongue weight will cause difficult steering and
tow vehicle sway. A rough rule of thumb is 5% to 10% of boat and
trailer weight on the tongue.
Close and secure all cabin windows and doors. Store equipment so
that it cannot slide or fall.
IMPORTANT: Convertible tops are not designed to stay on boats
at highway speeds. Before towing, take down the convertible top,
side curtains and back cover. They can be damaged.
Check springs and under carriage for loose parts.
Carry a spare wheel with tire to fit the trailer with tools sufficient to
change it.
On extended trips, carry spare wheel bearings, seals and races. Due
to the immersion necessary to launch your boat the trailer bearings
and packing will not last the mileage they will in your auto.
14. Before backing your trailer into water, disconnect the light plug from
the car. This will greatly reduce the chances of blowing out your trailer
lights when they become submerged.
How to Back Up Your Trailer
We will attempt to show you how it is done in pictures. However, prac-
tice makes perfect, so we suggest using an empty supermarket parking
lot for practice.
NOTE: When backing, be sure to have a lookout; your visibility may
he severely impaired. Also, make certain the rudder will clear
obstacles.
1. Turn the front wheels of the car in the opposite direction from which
you want the trailer to go,
2. Once the turn Is started, follow the trailer as you would normally back-
ing the car.
3. When rounding turns on highways or streets, don't cut corners,
4. Equip your vehicle with a right hand mirror, a real benefit when passing
and parking.
BACKING TO RIGHT
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ms == sir | 4 FOLLOWING THRU TURN
BACKINO TO LEFT — N « NC,
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7
AO
N
Getting Away From the Dock
Now comes the big moment. Piloting a boat is a lot like learning to
drive a car. Extra caution and slow speeds cause fewer accidents. The
diagram on page 7 will help you to understand how your new Bayliner
steers. After leaving the dock, secure and store any fenders or mooring
lines.
7 \
Fa
RIGHT TURN LEFT TURN BACKING TO LEFTY
Tum wheel to night =. Turn ehest to lalt — Tum wheal to loft —
Stem wil move 10 fell. Stern will mova fo right, Stam wilt pull lo laft.
ОГО ЕЯ
SINGLE DOCK MOGRING
+ Mi + a
O o O
Practice Maneuvers Under Power
Once you are away from the dock, devote some time to learning how
to maneuver,
1. Practice docking by using an imaginary dock.
2. Practice stopping. You have no brakes, but reverse works well at low
speeds.
3. Remember your boat is heavy. When operating in close quarters or
docking, all maneuvering should be done at idle speed. Proceed with
caution in congested areas. Deep-V boats do not track straight at slow
speeds. Proceed with caution in congested areas.
4. Gradually increase your speed. Get used to the boat before any full
throttle operation.
10
Docking
Proper docking begins with proper preparation. Start by making sure
you have adequate equipment, and that it is stowed correctly and ready
for use. Your dealer is the best source for the amount and type of equip-
ment you should carry.
1. Attach lines to deck cleats by making a loop in one end, large enough
to pass through hole in the base of cleat and back over entire cleat.
Pull line tight. Done this way, the line will not come off the cleat. The
line now can be used to secure your boat. Lines may be kept this way
while running as long as they are coiled and cannot become fouled
in gear or props. In heavy sea conditions, all lines should be removed
from decks.
TIP: Tie up by running line from boat, around dock cleat, and back
to boat. This way you can untie without jumping from deck to dock
and back aboard. Just cast off one end and then bring the whole line
on board.
2. Be aware of wind, tide, current or other forces that effect your direc-
tion when leaving the dock and account for this in your maneuvering.
Most maneuvering to and from a dock is best accomplished at 600
to 800 rp.m.'s,
When approaching a mooring situation where there is a wind, tide
or current, try to use these elements to your advantage. Allow them
to carry the boat into dock. If there are high winds or strong currents,
it is best to approach the moorage from the lee side. With a mild cur-
rent or little or no wind it is best to approach from the windward side.
When approaching check to see that all lines are attached to the cleats
on the side that you will be mooring and that fenders are lowered on
that side. Be sure to check that the fenders are hung at the proper
height.
3. SINGLE SCREW BOATS: When leaving a mooring on your starboard
side and your bow cannot be pushed away from the dock first, start
forward with wheel to starboard in idle for 2' or 3”. Then shift to reverse
with steering full to port. Repeat if necessary to get the stern far enough
away from the dock so you can back clear of any other boats that may
be moored ahead of you. (Reverse wheel directions when leaving port
docking.)
CAUTION: Most anchoring and mooring areas have restricted
speeds; as a matter of common boating courtesy, watch your
wake.
11
4. TWIN SCREW BOATS: The same procedure should be followed with
the exception of maneuvering the boat away from the dock. For dual
engines you have a choice of swinging the bow or the stern out away
from the dock. If the mooring is to your starboard side (right) for the
bow to be moved away from the dock, the starboard engine should
be in forward and the port engine in reverse at the same r.p.m. This
will give you a counterclockwise rotation. When maneuvering the bow
out first you should watch to see that your swim platform and/or dinghy
won't be forced into the dock or a piling. Another maneuver to pull
away from the dock is done by moving away stern first. This is done
with the starboard engine in reverse, the port engine in forward and
using a bumper between the bow and the dock as a pivot point. The
stern will then move away from the mooring far enough so the engine
can be reversed and the bow brought out away from the dock. Both
engines can then be switched forward and steering started when the
boat becomes parallel with the mooring and clear of other objects.
NOTE: When maneuvering with twin engines, control is best ac-
complished by shifting with the engine throttles at idle. The out-
drives or rudders should be straight fore and aft.
When approaching a mooring area, lower your speed within a
reasonable distance to allow your wake to subside before it reaches
other boats or docks. As you get close to your moorage check the wind .
and any tide current action that may affect your maneuver and make
a conservative approach with these factors in mind.
5. SINGLE SCREW BOAT: When possible, as you approach your moof-
ing it is desirable to have a person on the bow and the stern of the
boat with a boat hook and a mooring line attached to a cleat. When
approaching on the starboard side, approach at idle r.p.m. in forward
at approximately 45 degrees to the dock. When your craft is 1/2 to
1/4 of a boat length away, turn hard to port, and stern will swing into
the mooring. Now turn to starboard and at idle r-p.m. put the boat into
reverse. This will stop the boat and bring the stern even closer to the
dock. At this time, the boat can be put into neutral.
6. TWIN SCREW BOAT. Approach the dock in the same manner as a
single screw boat. When the bow is within a few feet of the dock (star-
board side) the stern can be brought alongside the mooring by revers-
ing the port engine starboard engine in forward. These procedures
are reversed for docking to port.
12
Section Ii
Parts and Systems—Operations and Maintenance
Electrical Systems
Although Bayliner manufactures many different model power boats
the electrical systems on all models operate on the same basic theory. The
key to a good marine electrical system is the battery. The batteries on
Bayliners 1600 through 2850 are a dealer installed item. Bayliner makes
the following recommendations on battery rating:
Model 1600—minimum 70 amp/hour rating (outboard).
The 1650 through 2850-—minimum 70 amp/hour rating (4 Cylinder 1/0).
Models 1950 through 2850—minimum 85 amp/hour rating (8 Cylinder
O).
Models 2450 through 2850—minimum 105 amp/hour rating (Diesel
Powered).
In addition Bayliner recommends, as an added safety factor, that all
models 2150 - 2850 be equipped with an extra starting battery and a vapor
proof battery selector switch. Consult your dealer about this option.
On all models 3250 - 3870 the batteries are part of the standard equip-
ment supplied by Bayliner. Gas powered models are equipped with one
85 amp/hour battery and one 105 amp/hour battery. The 85 amp/hour bat-
tery is used for starting and ignition on both engines and is charged by
the port engine. The 105 amp/hour battery is used for accessories and
is charged by the starboard engine.
Each battery is connected to a vapor proof OFF/ON battery switch.
The isolating of the charging circuit on the starboard engine is accom-
plished through a special alternator exciter circuit. This circuit is fused in
line (AGC 10 amp) adjacent to the main battery switches. The fuse is
marked battery charger and is not to be confused with the 110V battery
charger. The exciter circuit is activated by an oil pressure controlled switch
on the starboard engine. When the starboard engine is started, the oil
pressure comes up, the pressure switch closes, the exciter circuit is ener-
gized and the alternator charges the accessory battery.
On the 3870 Model three on-off battery switches and two batteries are
provided. A 225 amp/hour battery is used for starting and ignition on both
engines and is charged by the port engine. A 225 amp/hour battery is used
for accessories and is charged by the starboard engine. The third battery
switch is a cross over switch between the start and accessory battery and
is used to start the engines if the start battery goes dead. The cross over
switch should be turned on only in emergencies. It should not be left on.
Leaving this switch on can result in all onboard batteries being exhausted.
NOTE: The charging systems on all models powered by twin Volvo diesels
are slightly different. The differences are noted on the wiring diagram.
13
On those models 1850 through 2850 the condition of the battery can
be read on the volt meter when the ignition is in the “ON” position. On
models 3250 through 3870 the condition of the main starting battery can
be read on the volt meter marked “ENGINE CIRCUIT", when the engine
battery switch and the port ignition switch are in the “ON” position. The
condition of the accessory battery can be read on the volt meter marked
“ACCESSORY CIRCUIT” when the accessory battery switch is in the “ON”
position. The starboard ignition switch does not have to be on to read the
accessory battery condition.
With the engine(s) not running, volt meter readings in the 11.5 to 12,5
volt ranges are considered normal, Readings in the 10 to 11.5 volt range
indicate a marginal charge condition. Readings below 10 volts indicate a
serious discharge condition.
With the engines running (over 1,500 r.p.m.) voit meter readings of 13
to 14 volts are considered normal. Readings below this indicate a severely
discharged battery or a non-functioning charging system.
Battery
The marine battery has a big job; it supplies you with lights, engine
starting power and power to run many accessories. Don't neglect it! Check
the water level regularly by removing the caps. If the zinc plates are ex-
posed, add distilled water. Corroded battery terminals can also let you down.
Clean them with baking soda and water, and coat them with a preservative
or a light film of grease. Be sure all battery connections are tight. When
storing the boat, it is best to remove the battery, give it a full charge, and
store it inside where there are not extreme temperatures.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers—12V
On all inboard/outboard powered models 1650 through 2850 the
engine and accessory circuits are protected by a large circuit breaker
located on the engine(s): 40 amp. In addition, the power tilt motors on ail
Volvo's are protected by a 20 amp fuse AGU (20).
On all inboard/outboard or inboard powered madels 3250 through 3870
the engine circuit(s) are protected by a large circuit breaker located on the
engine(s): 40 amp (Volvo) - 60 amp (BMC Diesel) - 25 amp (Chrysler Diesel).
The accessory circuits are separate from the engine circuit(s) and are pro-
tected by a large circuit breaker (70 amp) located at the main battery
switches. The ignition circuits on all inboard and inboard/outboard powered
models are protected by an AGC 12 amp fuse located on the back of the
instrument pane! in an inline fuse holder at the ignition switch or in the
main fuse block. On the outboard models the accessory panel is protected
by an AGC 20 amp fuse in line fuse holder at the battery.
14
1650 - 2850 STANDARD EQUIPMENT Fuse blocks on these models
are located behind the instrument panel (at both stations on bridge model
boats). The fuses are marked as to which accessory they protect. AGC
10 amp fuses are used on all standard equipment accessories.
The standard equipment on the 2750 and 2850 models includes a
pressure demand water pump (fresh water system), a sump pump (shower)
and a 110W12V refrigerator. The power for these accessories is taken off
the back of the instrument panel and the fuses are located there.
2260-2850 Optionai Accessories—Electric nydraulic trim tabs; the
power taken directly off battery and is fused in-line at the battery (AGC
20 amp).
Electric refrigerator—The 12 volt power for this accessory is taken
off the fuse block (AGC 10 amp).
Spotiight—The power for this accessory is taken off the instrument
panel where the remote control is located. There are two in-line fuses at
the remote control, The motor drive for the light is protected by an AGC
15 amp fuse and the light by an AGC 10 amp fuse.
Hot water cabin heater—Ihe power for the hot water cabin heater
is taken off the main fuse block behind the instrument panel (AGC 10 amp).
3250 - 38/0 Standard Equipment—The fuses for these models are
located on the face of the instrument panel, except model 3270, which nas
two fuse blocks behind the instrument panel. All fuses used are AGC 10
amp with the exception of the blowers and bilge pumps, which use AGC
15 amp fuse and cabin lights which use AGC 15 amp fuses. The main power
supply for the accessories is protected by a 70 amp circuit breaker which
is located at the main battery switen(es). Also located at the main battery
switch(es) are in-line fuses for the accessory battery charging circuit and
the automatic switch for the bilge pump. The main battery switch panel
is located in the engine compartment. On the 3250 models, the blower
and Volvo drive lift controls are fused in-line behind the instrument panel
and receive power from the engine circuit.
3250 - 3870 Optional Accessories—All optional accessories are fused
at the instrument panel with the exception of the power windlass. This
accessory has its own control switch panel and is protected by a 150 amp
circuit breaker. The shower sump pump shares a fuse with the demand
fresh water pump. The spotlight, trim tabs and stereo have their own fuses
and the hot water cabin heater and flow-thru head options are fused to
the two extra accessory fuses.
15
Dockside Power
Listed below are those models 2450 through 3870 equipped with 110V
dockside power as standard or optional equipment.
Dockside Dockside Cord Breaker Box
Model STD/OPT Lght/Adpt hocation
2450 Ciera Sun Bridge OPT 50/30amp Galley Face
2450 Ciera Command OPT 50'/30amp lower Helm
Bridge
2450 Ciera Sport Sedan OPT 50'/30amp Galley
2750 Ciera Sunbridge STD 50/30amp Aft End of Galley
2850 Contessa Sunbridge STD 50/30amp Main Helm
2850 Contessa Sedan STD 50'/30amp Lower Helm
Bridge
2860 Trophy Fisherman OPT 50/30amp Galley
3250 Conquest Sunbridge STD 50/30amp Aft Galley Face
3270 Explorer STD 50/30amp Lower Helm
3870 Motoryacht STD 50/30amp Lower Helm
NOTE: Dockside power available on 2860 Trophy only with galley and
hardtop options.
The 110 voit circuit breakers are marked as to which accessory(s) they
protect. In addition to the individual breakers, all models are equipped with
a main breaker, On those models 3250 through 3870 equipped with a
generator, dual 30 amp inlets or air conditioning, two main circuit breakers
arg supplied.
The main circuit breaker(s) is located at the top of the circuit breaker
panel. With the dockside power cord plugged in and all the breakers in
the “ON" position, the 110 volt accessories on the boat can be used.
NOTE: A phase test warning light is installed on each panel. When
connecting to shore power the phase tester should be checked to see
that the shore power is in phase with the boat. An out of phase con-
dition can result in electrical shock. It is also recommended that 15
amp and 20 amp adapters be purchased for the 30 amp cord. Not every
shore installation has 30 amp service.
The simultaneous operation of several 110V accessories i.e. electric
stove, electric heat, refrigerator, etc. can result in an overloaded 110 volt
circuit on the boat or on the shore. It might be necessary to shut one ac-
cessory off while operating another.
16
110V/12V Refrigerator
The Norcold refrigerator used by Bayliner operates on 110V AC and
12V DC power. When the 110V system is not hooked to an AC source, the
refrigerator operates on 12 volts. When an AC source is supplied, by a
generator or dockside power, the refrigerator automatically switches to 110V.
The refrigerator is the heaviest continuous draw on the 12 voit system.
While operating, the refrigerator draws 8 amps. If no other 12 volt ac-
cessories are used, the refrigerator can draw a 100 amp battery dead in
less than 24 hours. For this reason it is recommended that when operating
on 12 volts, the cold setting on the refrigerator should not be set higher
than position 2. It is also advisable to turn the refrigerator off at night. И
you are going to be out more than one day and cannot connect to dockside
power or do not have a generator, you should plan to run the main engine(s)
each day to keep the battery(s) up.
NOTE: It is recommended that the owner’s manual supplied by the
manufacturer of this equipment be read before operating the
equipment.
Hot Water Heater (Fresh Water System)
On the 2450 - 3250 models equipped with standard or optional hot
water heater, the heater is hooked up to the 110 voit dockside power system
only. if the engine is equipped with fresh water cooling, either optional or
standard, the hot water system heater may also be plumbed to the engine
cooling system.
On the 3270 - 3870 models, the hot water heater operates on 110 volts
and is also plumbed to the main engine cooling system. Hot water from
the engine cooling system circulating through a heat exchanger in the hot
water tank will heat the water in the tank. The hot water tank which holds
approximately 6 gallons is equipped with a thermostat and a reset button.
CAUTION: When operating the hot water tank on 110 volts, if the water
supply runs dry, the hot water tank must be shut off immediately or
the 110 volt heating element will burn out.
NOTE: K is recommended that the owner's manual supplied by the
manufacturer of this equipment be read before operating this
equipment.
Generator 3250 - 3870
To operate the generator the following procedure should be followed:
Check the oil level.
Check to see that seawater valve is open.
Open fuel valve,
Inspect engine and bilge for fuel leakage. Do not start engine if any
fuel is present.
PON
17
5. Operate blower for 4 minutes.
6. Turn generator switch to start. When generator starts, turn the AC.
source selector to “Generator”.
NOTE: It is recommended that the owners manual supplied with the
generator be read before operating the equipment.
Battery Charger 3250 - 3870
All 3250 - 3870 models are equipped with an automatic battery charger.
The battery charger operates when the 110 volt dock side power is con-
nected and the battery charger circuit breaker is on. On those models
equipped with a generator, the battery charger operates when the AC
source selector switch is on “Generator”, the generator is running, and
the battery charger circuit breaker is on. The battery charger will charge
the batteries regardless of the battery switch position. The battery charger
has two isolated outputs and charges both batteries simultaneously, as
required.
Battery Charger 2450 - 2350
On these models with dockside power, an automatic battery charger
is provided. This charger is normaliy connected to the main power lead
at the fuse block behind the instrument panel. If a battery selector switch
is installed the battery charger output should be reconnected to the com-
mon terminal of this switch or no charging will occur when the switch is OFF.
18
Schematic Wiring Diagram
All Stern Drive Models, 1650 - 2150
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Schematic Wiring Diagram Model 3250
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23
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Schematic Wiring Diagram
Model 3870 (continued)
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24
Fuel Systems
CAUTION: it is very important that the fuel system be inspected
thoroughly at the time it is first filled and then at each subsequent
filling. We recommend for your safety and the safety of your
passengers that the “Fueling” instruction in Section li of this manual
must be followed.
1. Fuel Fills and Vents:
Fuel fills are located either on the aft deck or on the side decks adja-
cent to the aft cockpit and are marked “Fuel” or “Gas”. Fills are located
so that fuel spilled from the fill will flow overboard. Fuel vents are nor-
mally located in the hull or transom below and in the same general
area as the fill. If you experience difficulty filling the fuel tank, you
should check to see that the fuel fill and vent lines are free from
obstructions and kinks.
2. Anti-Siphon Valves:
As required by the U.S. Coast Guard, the fuel systems on all gas
powered boats manufactured by Bayliner are equipped with an anti-
siphon valve. This valve is an integral part of the barb fitting on the
fuel tank to which the neoprene fuel line attaches. The valve is spring
loaded and is opened by fuel pump pressure. These valves will pre-
vent gasoline from siphoning from the fuel tank in the event of a fuel
line rupture.
NOTE: If an engine running problem is diagnosed as fuel starva-
tion, the anti-siphon valve should be checked. In the event the
valve is stuck or clogged it should be cleaned or replaced with
engine off. Under no circumstances should it be removed except
in an emergency.
3. Fuel Filters:
All fuel tanks installed by Bayliner are equipped with a fine mesh
screen filter on the fuel pick-up tube in the tank. In addition, when
supplied by the motor manufacturer, an additional filter is installed on
the engine. Fuel filters should be checked periodically to see that
they're clean and free of debris.
4. On those models 3250 - 3870 equipped with inboard engines, two fuel
tanks are used. The fuel lines from these tanks are run to a manifold
made up of two OFFON valves and a crossover valve. If the boat is
equipped with the optional generator there is also a valve on the
manifold for the generator fuel line. Under normal conditions, the boat
should be run with the main valves open and the crossover valve clos-
ed. If for some reason one of the tanks runs dry, the valve to that tank
can be shut, the crossover opened and both engines run off the tank
with fuel. When running two engines off one tank, you should not run
25
the engines in excess of 3,000 r.p.m. The fuel manifold is located in-
side the aft cockpit hatch.
CAUTION: Avoid the storage or handling of gear near the fuel lines,
fittings and tanks.
. Diesel Fuel:
The diesel fuel systems utilized in Bayliner boats are similar in many
ways to the gas system. Diesel engine operation requires a return fuel
line from the engine to the tank. Thus, the fuel system has two lines
between the engine and the tank instead of one. The diese! fuel tanks
are not fitted with anti-siphon valves. Fuel valves are included in diesel
systems between the tank and engine and on the return line. In some
applications a crossover valve is used, Fuel filters are utilized in every
diesel installation. It is very important that the filters be checked and
cleaned regularly.
FUEL CAPACITY TABLE
Capacity
Model Power Tank No. (gallons)
CIERA
2150 Ciera Sunbridge 10 7535 54
2450 Ciera Command Bridge Vo 7501 70
2450 Ciera Sunbridge 10 7536 64
2750 Ciera Sunbridge 10 8139 124
TROPHY
1710 Bass O/B 8850 18
1910 Fisherman O/B 8427 43
2110 Fisherman Cuddy O/B 8185 65
2060 Fisherman 170 7537 40
2260 Fisherman VO 4410 69
2460 Cuddy 10 7901 92
2860 Cuddy 10 8162 140
EXPLORER
2070 Explorer VO 6343 42
YACHTS
2850 Contessa Sunbridge 10 7207 120
2850 Contessa Command 10 6878 129
Bridge
3250 Conquest Sunbridge 10 4318 200
V-Drive 173
3270 Explorer 78 port 7135 100
stb 7136 100
3870 Motoryacht В рой 7312 152
stb 7311 152
26
Freshwater System
The freshwater systems in Bayliner cruiser models vary in tank size
and location.
Manual pumps work on a push-pull basis.
FRESH WATER LOCATION AND CAPACITY
Model
CIERA
2150 Ciera
Sunbridge
2450 Ciera
Sunbridge
2450 Ciera
Command
Bridge
2750 Ciera
Sunbridge
TROPHY
1710 Bass
1910 Center
Console
2060 Fisherman
2260 Fisherman
2110 Cuddy
2460 Cuddy
2860 Cuddy
EXPLORER
2070 Explorer
PE.NO,
3915
Р-З24
P-324
324
N/A
N/A
952
952
N/A
8188
7836
952
Location
port-engine
box
port-engine
box
port-engine
box
port-engine
box
N/A
N/A
under port
sink
under port
sink
N/A
under liner
mid-ship
aft of
engine box
under sink
27
System
hand
pump
hand
pump
hand
pump
demand
pump
N/A
N/A
hand
pump
hand
pump
N/A
hand
pump
demand
pump
hand
pump
Water Fill
Location
on the tank
on the tank
on the tank
on the tank
N/A
N/A
on the tank
on the tank
N/A
deck stb
midship
deck port
midship
on the tank
Capacity
(gallons)
13
21
21
21
N/A
N/A
N/A
26
30
FRESH WATER LOCATION AND CAPACITY (continued)
Water Fill Capacity
Model Pt.No. Location System Location (gallons)
YACHTS
2850 Contessa 7826 v-berth demand deck bow 30
Sunbridge pump
2850 Contessa 3469 under cabin demand deck stb 36
Command sole midship pump midship
Bridge
3250 Conquest 4341 engine room demand deck stb 45
Sunbridge sole pump side
3270 Explorer 3469 under cabin demand deck stb 36
sole pump side
3870 Explorer 7313 under galley demand deck sib 86
sole pump midship
Pressure systems operate at any time the electrical switch is on. When
not using the boat, or when tank is dry, be sure the switch is off. Pressure
pump switches are located in the galleys on all models. On those models
with showers, the shower sump switch is located in the head. Because
the shower floor is below the waterline, a sump pump must be used to
remove shower water.
Starter Motor
The engine starter motor is different from most 12V electric motors.
It is designed to deliver high horsepower for very short intervals only. Avoid
operation for more than 30 seconds at one time. Due to its high horsepower
this motor builds up considerable heat and can be permanently damaged
with prolonged use. If it does not operate, check battery for charge and
all direct connections for shorts or loose connections. The starter motor
is located very near the bilge of your Bayliner. If bilge water is allowed to
accumulate to a depth of more than 6”, the starter can be damaged.
Automatic bilge pumps are recommended for boats left in open moorage.
Bilge Blower
The bilge blower is designed to draw fumes out of the engine com-
partment and causes fresh air to circulate into the compartment through
the deck vents.
The bilge blower is designed to be used before starting the engine(s),
during starting and while boat is operating below cruising speed to insure
fresh air circulation. Operate blower for 4 minutes before starting engine.
NOTE: The blower will not prevent explosion. If you smell any fuel,
shut off all electrical accessories and engine and investigate
immediately.
28
Bilge Pump
The electric bilge pump supplied with your Bayliner is of an impeller
type. If you see water and the pump motor is running but not pumping,
check to see that it is not clogged by debris. If it still does not pump, check
the discharge hose for kinks or a collapsed area.
NOTE: The federal water pollution control act prohibits the discharge
of oil or oil waste into or upon the navigable waters and contiguous
zone of the United States if such discharge causes a film or sheen
upon, or discoloration of, the surface of the water, or causes a sludge
or emulsion beneath the surface of the water. Violators are subject
to penalty of $5000.
Running Lights
If failure occurs, check the following:
1. You may have blown a fuse. (Replace fuse in switch panel.)
2. The bulb may be burned out. (Carry spare bulbs for replacement.)
3. The bulb base may be corroded. (Clean periodically as required and
coat with non-conductive grease or vaseline.)
4. A wire may be loose due to vibration or mis-stowed gear. (Repair where
break occurred.) NOTE: Prolonged operation of cabin interior lights
(overnight) will result in a dead battery. Be conservative in the use
of battery power.
Windshield Wiper
The wiper motor supplied with your Bayliner, like all good equipment,
requires some maintenance. Do not increase the size of the wiper arm.
The manufacturer has engineered the motor for that exact load. If the wiper
does not operate: 1) Check the fuse, 2) Check the switch, and 3) Make
sure wiper arm is securely attached to motor.
Head Operation
MARINE HEAD WITH HOLDING TANK (OPTIONAL)
The marine head with holding tank is designed so waste may be
flushed into the holding tank or, for those traveling offshore and beyond
Federally regulated waterways, flushed overboard. This is accomplished
by routing the head discharge hose through a “Y” connector to the holding
tank and also overboard. There are valves in each of these lines. To flush
waste overboard the gate valve to the tank must be closed and the thru-
hull seacock should be open. To flush into the holding tank, close the
through-hull seacock and open the gate valve to the holding tank. To empty
the holding tank the boat must be taken to a pump out station.
29
To operate the marine head, open the seacock on the seawater in-
take. Before using, pump some water in to wet the bowl. After using, pump
until thoroughly cleaned. Pump a few more times to clean lines. If excess
waste should cause water to rise in bowl, stop pumping till water recedes.
If at any time you are unable to pump water into the bowl, the probable
reason is debris sucked into the pump diaphragm. To remedy, shut inlet
seacock and dismantle pump. Pump is generally held together with six
screws. The design is simple and the problem will be obvious when pump
body is split open. To winterize toilet, shut off intake valve. Pump until dry.
Remove drain plug in base and pump again to remove all water. Do not
use antifreeze. The inlet seacock shouid be closed while the boat is under-
way or when the boat is left moored in the water.
Portable Heads
PASSPORT
Be sure to read and carefully follow manufacturers’ instructions.
To Fill Fresh Water Tank:
Remove upper section from lower section. Remove fill cap and fill to
maximum water line on side of tank. DO NOT OVERFILL. DO NOT POUR
WASTE TANK DEODORIZER INTO FRESH WATER TANK,
To Flush:
PULL holding tank flush valve handle straight out. To rinse bowl, stroke
the pump several times. Next, “slowly” push valve handle straight in. This
will ensure a leakproof seal.
To Add Chemical Deodotizer;
Pull flush valve handle straight out so bowl clapper seal is completely
open. Add 2 oz. of Liquid Gold® concentrate or Royal Gold® powder direct-
ly into tank. Pump sufficient water through bowl opening to cover bottom
surface of lower tank.
CAUTION: Do not add holding tank chemical to upper fresh water tank.
CAUTION: Do not add odor control chemical into bowl with bowl clap-
per seal closed.
Before use, always check the pressure build-up by pulling out the
fiush handle slowly with the lid closed.
Before using, it is necessary to pump liquid info the basin. Keep the
basin dry when running.
NOTE: Use only white toilet tissue as colored dyes may impair the ef-
fectiveness of the chemical. Use regular ply tissue. Do not use
disintegrating tissue as this may clog the entire pump system.
Cleaning:
Use only mild cleansers, detergents or soaps. Avoid using abrasive
cleaners and clean the toilet periodically as you would your own household
toilet.
30
To Empty:
To empty the portable model into another toilet, remove the pour-spout
cap in the middle rear side and connect the hose adapter with an ade-
quate length of three inch (7.62cm) flexible sewer hose clamped on to
submerge the hose below the waterline in an existing toilet bowl.
Gradually tilt the unit to drain out.
After emptying, flush a half pail of clear water into the holding tank
and swirl contents to rinse out. Repeat if necessary.
To use toilet again, recharge with Liquid Gold as done originally.
NOTE: There are many brands of toilet chemicals, any of which will
work very well in any of the portable toilets supplied by Bayliner.
SANIPOT HE/SANIPOTTIE Hl
To separate tanks, pull outward at top of side clasps. Clasps can be
completely removed by pulling straight out of body cavity.
Lift up on top tank to remove from lower tank.
CAUTION: Atmospheric pressure and temperature changes may cause
pressure build-up in lower holding tank. Caution should be used when
first opening flush valve.
Carry like a suitcase to water supply. Remove cap and fill until water
reaches “water level” line molded into top of tank. Replace cap firmly.
SANIPOTTIE top tank holds 4 gallons of water. SANIPOTTIE il top tank
holds 32 gallons of water.
CAUTION: Do not add Holding Tank Chemical to upper fresh water
tank.
Remove cap on back of lower holding tnak. Pour SANIMAJIK chemical
into this holding tank following instructions on chemical container.
CAUTION: Never add chemical into bowl of upper fresh water tank.
Place the water filled tank on top of holding tank. An “O” ring seal
will slip into position with upper tank forming a watertight seal. Secure
clasps by hooking lower edge of clasps under the side recesses of holding
tank. Push top edges of clasps in against sides of top tank.
To empty holding tank, first separate tanks. Be sure flush valve is com-
pletely closed. Holding tank should be emptied when contents reach ap-
proximately 1/2 inch below flush valve. SANIPOTTIE holding tank holds
4 gallons. SANIPOTTIE Il holds 3 gallons.
Hold tank “vertically” by handle when removing cap. Pour contents
slowly to avoid splashing. Add fresh water and shake tank to rinse. Pour
rinse water into receptacle. Replace cap firmly.
31
Cold Weather Use:
The addition of permanent type antifreeze (in amount specified on con-
tainer for 4 gallons of water) will provide safe winter protection. Do not use
alcohol or alcohol products.
Winter Storage:
Empty top tank and holding tank. Make sure all water is cleared from
flush pump. A small amount of water will remain in the top tank but will
be harmless during winter storage.
Maintenance:
Lubricate flush valve seals periodically with Dow Corning silicone spray
or paste lubricant. The flush valve may be removed for cleaning or inspec-
tion by simply unscrewing counterclockwise. Do not use abrasive type
cleaners or petroleum products in the bowl area. These products will
damage the flush valve seals.
HOLDING TANK AND VALVE LOCATION TABLE
Location of Location of
Capacity Location of inlet Discharge Location
Model (gallons) Hold Tank Seacock Thru-Hull of Ÿ Value
2150 Ciera 13 stb side stb side stb side on the
Sunbridge engine dinette stern tank
compart- access quarter
ment hatch
2450 Ciera 13 stb side under stb stb side stb side
Sunbridge engine lounge engine engine
compart- seat compart- compart-
ment ment ment
2450 Ciera 13 stb side stb side stb side stb side
Command engine engine engine engine
Bridge compart- compart- compart- compart-
ment ment ment ment
2750 Ciera 13 stb engine stb side stb stern on the
Sunbridge compart- bilge tank
ment
2850 Contessa 13 stb side head stb side stb side
Sunbridge engine compart engine engine
compart- ment compart- compart-
ment ment ment
2850 Contessa 13 beneath beneath beneath beneath
Command dinette cabin sole cabin cabin in
port side thru access sole thru access
hatch access — hatch
hatch
32
HOLDING TANK AND VALVE LOCATION TABLE (continued)
Location of Location of
Capacity Location of Inlet Discharge Location
Mode! (gallons) Hold Tank Seacock Thru-Hull of Y Value
2860 Trophy 13 ай о! aft head sth side aft of
head under bulkhead midship head
mid berth under mid
floor berth floor
3250 Conquest 13 stb side under aft berth aft berth
Sunbridge engine cabin sole storage storage
compart main salon compart- compart-
ment ment ment
3270 Explorer 13 beneath beneath beneath beneath
Command salon salon salon salon
stb side stb side stb side stb side
access access access access
3870 Explorer 36 beneath beneath behind beneath
forward galley galley galley
cabin sole sole sth side sole
Alcohol Stoves
The alcohol stove supplied with your Bayliner is the finest available.
Read carefully and follow the operating instructions. Use only stove alcohol
labeled specifically for marine use. Do not operate stove while underway.
To Fill:
Unscrew tiller cap. Fill tank with denatured alcohol using a funnel.
Replace cap. The filler cap is equipped with a safety valve and must not
be replaced by any other type of cap.
fo Start:
Pump approximately 20 times to pressurize fuel tank. Pump is located
at front of stove.
10 Operate;
Burners must be preheated to produce vaporized alcohol. Slowly open
one burner at a time to allow alcohol to flow into priming cup below the
burner body. Fill priming cup 3/4 full (about 1/4 oz). Shut off burner and
ignite priming alcohol. When this alcohol is fully consumed, turn control
knob toward open position and light burner.
CAUTION: All alcohol spilled while filling tank or as a result of prim-
ing cup being filled to overflowing should be cleaned up prior to
lighting alcohol stove. Follow starting instructions above carefully.
Flare-up may occur during preheating, particularly if burner valve is
opened before preheating is completed. If flare-up occurs, shut off
33
burner and restart per instructions. DO NOT PUT COOKING UTEN-
SILS ON STOVE UNTIL BURNERS ARE FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.
To shut off burner, turn control knob to the extreme right and then
release pressure in tank by loosening filler cap.
Electric Alcohol Stoves
To fill, start, and operate alcohol portion of the stove, see instructions
given in the above section.
Electric Stove Operation
Stove top must be down. Lift lower end of latch to unlock it. Left elec-
tric control knob operates the high speed left burner and the right control
knob operates the right low speed burner. Left and right indicator lights
will indicate when each burner control is "ON", Set the knob for the heat
desired. Infinite controls provide any desired heat. The burners will cycle
on and off during operation. When finished cooking, be sure both knobs
are “OFF” and the indicator lights are out.
Propane Stove
The propane system is a very safe and simple system. A solenoid
shutoff valve has been included as standard eguipment on the propane
system. The shutoff valve is actuated by a switch located on the galley face.
To operate, the main power switch plus the range switch on the 12V ac-
cessory panel must be on. By turning the switch off, propane is turned
off instantly at the tank. it is important that the stove instructions, provided
as part of the owners package, be read completely before operating the
stove,
Loading Limits: Hardtops, Cabin Tops, Command Bridges
Hardtops and cabin tops are of reinforced fibergtass. They are design-
ed to be lightweight for proper boat balance and carry the following load
limits: Hardtop Models (Explorer and Trophy) not to exceed 100 pounds;
Command Bridge Model not to exceed 500 pounds (2450); 700 pounds
(2850 through 3270), 1000 pounds (3270 and 3870). These are maximum
limits for boats carrying a normal complement of fuel and gear. Boats
with a lighter load should carry less weight than stated maximum in
critical areas noted above.
Transom Platforms
Weight not to exceed 250 pounds.
Auxiliary engine not to exceed 72 horsepower,
Periodically check for looseness and corrosion.
34
Stuffing Box Packing
1. Procedure for Packing Stuffing Boxes (Inboard Models)
a. Use correct size packing as listed:
Stuffing Packing No.
Model Box Size Size Rings
3250 Conquest P/N 2879 114” Ya” 3
3270 Explorer PIN 2879 17“ na" 3
3870 Explorer P/N 3029 1%” Y” 4
b. Wrap packing around shaft and cut rings with a razor blade at ap-
proximately 30 degrees to long axis of shaft.
c. install number of rings listed above. Stagger ends of each ring and
insure rings bottom in nut.
2. Procedure for Setting Up Packing
a. Tighten packing nut by hand only until resistance of packing con-
tacting the stuffing box is felt. Tighten lock nut securely as shaft
rotation will tend to turn the packing nut and either loosen or tighten
the packing nut depending on direction of shaft rotation.
b. When initially launched the packing must be allowed to leak at
a rate of about 5 to 30 drops a minute as it will expand and seal
from water contact and friction heat of the turning shaft. Failure
to allow this leakoff will result in packing burnout after a short period
of running.
35
Section lll
Underway Operating Instructions
While under power, check instruments frequently. They are the ad-
vance warning system that will enable you to avoid troublesome
malfunctions.
Instruments
Tachometer — All tachometers are of the electric type, indicating
engine revolutions per minute {r.p.m.) in 100's, On twin engine installations
or dual station models, the tachometers may have a slightly different
reading. This is normal.
Temperature Gauge — The temperature gauge indicates engine
coolant temperature by monitoring a signal from a sending unit installed
in the engine water jacket. The sender changes resistance value as its
temperature changes. This changing resistance value is then measured
by the instrument. When the gauge reads in the danger area, shut the
engine off and diagnose the problem. A common cause of overheating
is picking up a foreign object in the seawater intake. Usually, raising and
lowering your outdrive will free it. Backing up in reverse gear then pulling
ahead in forward gear for 10-15 feet is helpful too. On those twin engine
powered boats equipped with a hot water system whereby the cooling
system of one engine is plumbed through the hot water tank to heat fresh
water, the temperature gauge(s) for that engine will read a different
operating temperature than the other engine.
Qil Pressure Gauge — The oll pressure gauge indicates pressure by
monitoring a signal from a sending unit. When gauge reads in the low
pressure area, shut the engine off and diagnose the problem.
Fuel Gauge — The fuel gauge indicates fuel level. Since boats are
many times exposed to rough water conditions and varying trim, fuel
gauges may provide inaccurate readings at times, It is always good to keep
track of your running time as a double check against an inaccurate gauge.
Hour Meter (optional) — The hour meter measures engine running
time. lt is an aid to maintenance and warranty requirements. The meter
has a range of 10,000 hours with automatic recycle.
Boat Performance
Boat speeds are affected by a great many factors. Some such as
temperature and altitude, you can’t do anything about. You can affect other
factors. They are:
1. Loading: Take with you only the necessary equipment. As you add
weight to your boat It slows down. Keep weight low in the boat and
balanced.
36
2. Propeller: Keep it in good repair and the correct pitch for your par-
ticular situation. The factory standard equipment propeller may not
be the best one for your particular boat and load conditions. The
engine should be able to come up to its rated rp.m. on a normally
loaded boat. If the engine r.p.m. at full throttle is less than the max-
imum rated, try a prop of less pitch. If the engine r.p.m. exceeds the
maximum rated, try a prop of greater pitch,
A slightly bent or nicked propeller will adversely affect the performance
of your boat.
3. Weeds, barnacles and other growth: Keep your boat bottom clean.
When your boat starts “growing grass” it will slow down greatly, even
to the point it will not plane. Anti-fouling paint that does not contain
mercury or copper is recommended. Base materials, such as copper,
will accelerate electrolysis and possibly damage under water gear.
Marine growth varies from one area to another so it’s best to consult
your dealer for the best bottom paint for your particular area.
Boat Running Attitude
1. if your boat runs with its bow too high at cruising speeds, the follow-
ing suggestions will help you lower the bow:
a. Move weight forward in the boat.
b. Install or adjust trim tabs. See section D below.
6, Adjust thrust angle of engine.
(1) Volvo I/O motors: move tilt pin in transom plate to
the closest hole into the boat.
(2) Boats with power trim: run power trim “down” or “in” position.
2. If your boat runs with its bow too low at cruising speeds (usualiy in-
dicated by water coming off the hull way forward and the boat being
difficult to steer—veering off course}, you can raise the bow by doing
the following:
a. Moving weight aft.
b. Not using tabs.
с. Adjusting engine thrust angle.
(1) Volvo 1/0 motors: move tilt pin out away from
the transom, one hole at a time.
(2) Boats with power trim: run power trim “out” with small
adjustments.
Trim Tabs
Trim tabs are intended for corrections to boat trim on the port and star-
board axis with very minor changes in pitch or fore-and-aft attitude. For
major corrections, redistribute loads.
1. If tab position is unknown, when idling away from the dock, put your
tabs in the full bow-up position.
37
2. After power is applied and boat is at cruising r.p.m., push appropriate
tab button to level the boat on lateral axis. Several short touches of
the tab button are recommended. Allow the boat to react to the new
position of the trim tab after each touch. When installed under
manufacturer's recommendation, the port button on the trim tab switch
operates the starboard trim tab and vice versa.
3. Both tabs can be lowered slightly to lower bow. Forcing the bow down
with tabs will cause steering difficulty and a loss of efficiency.
4. When running in a following sea, run tabs in full bow-up position.
WARNING: EXCESSIVE USE OF TRIM TABS WILL CAUSE A LOSS
OF CONTROL. DO NOT USE TRIM TABS IN A FOLLOWING SEA
AS THEY MAY CAUSE BROACHING OR OTHER UNSAFE HAND-
LING CHARACTERISTICS. DO NOT ALLOW THOSE UNFAMILIAR
WITH TRIM TABS TO OPERATE THEM.
Operating Dual Station Boats
Always start the boat at the station from which you will be operating.
This eliminates the possibility of having someone inadvertantly turn off the
ignition; also, if the engine stalls you are able to start it immediately. Re-
mind anyone near the unattended control station to “KEEP HANDS OFF”.
When leaving one station to begin operating at the other, bring the boat
to a complete stop and take your keys with you. Never leave the helm while
the boat is underway and assume that someone else has the boat under
control. If you are operating your boat from the bridge and you encounter
heavy sea conditions, you should bring your boat down to an idle, point
it into the sea and have any bridge passengers move down to the cabin.
If sea conditions become very heavy, you should also leave the bridge and
operate your boat from the lower station. Children left unattended below
should be made to wear life jackets.
Steering Wheel Pressure
All stern drives can be adjusted so there is no pull on the wheel at
one given speed or trim angle. We suggest your normal cruising speed.
This is done by turning the trim tab on the lower unit in the direction the
wheel is pulling. Small adjustments should be made until the steering has
neutral torque at the speed you desire. When running faster or slower than
this speed, a minimal amount of torque will be present.
38
Static Float Attitude
The static attitude of your boat can be affected by many variables. Op-
tional equipment and loading of gear are the biggest contributors to a boat's
listing. After launching, any new boat can be adjusted. If your boat lists
to one side, store heavy items on the light side and light items on the heavy
side.
Batteries have a big effect on static float attitude of a boat. Move bat-
teries to the light side if required.
Tips for Boat Owners
1. When commissioning a new boat, do not plan an extensive trip or party
until you have a shakedown cruise to make sure all equipment on your
boat is functioning properly and you are familiar with its operation.
2. Use big bumpers as they will best protect your boat from floats, piers
and other boats.
3. Carry adequate line properly sized to your boat. A minimum of two
30 lengths of 3/8" nylon line should be on board models 1600 through
1950. Three 30’ lengths of 3/8” nylon on models 2150 through 2750
and four 50’ lengths of 1/2” nylon line on models 2850 through 3270.
Four 60’ lengths of 5/8” nylon line on the 3870 and larger models.
4. Install an adequate anchor or anchors.
Install all US Coast Guard Safety Equipment.
68. Be courteous to other boats. Slow down in congested areas and watch
that your wake does not damage other boats.
on
Boating Safety Courses
Your local Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadron generally puts
on a Safe Boating Class several times a year. They are very comprehen-
sive and generally of minimal cost to you. Call your local US Coast Guard
Auxiliary or Power Squadron Flotilla for the time and place of the next class.
39
Section IV
General Maintenance and Repairs
Fiberglass Staining and Discoloration
These problems can generally be removed by many of the fine
fiberglass cleansers available. However, they take elbow grease. For best
results follow the manufacturer's recommendations. if the marine products
are not available in your area, try the new liquid household cleaners such
as 409, Ajax Liquid, Fantastik or others.
CAUTION: Household cleaners with abrasives will dull the finish on
your boat. If this occurs, wax and buff area to restore the luster.
Hardware Cleaning
Use nearly any of the metal cleaners on the market today to spruce
up hardware. After a good cleaning, a coat of paste wax will add greatly
to its luster. All metal fittings, including dash panel, instruments, railings
and hardware, should be sprayed with a rust inhibitor similar to WD-40
every three months when exposed to salt water and annually in fresh water.
If not maintained on a regular basis, stainless steel railings and fittings
will discolor,
Vinyl Upholstery
Use any good automotive vinyl cleaner; cleaner concentrates such
as Fantastik work well also.
CAUTION: Avoid solvents and bleaches, as they may permanently
damage the vinyl.
Vinyl Flooring
Use one of the liquid cleaners mentioned previously and a scrub brush.
Rinse thoroughly to avoid slickness when wet.
Textured Vinyl Wall Coverings
Use a mild detergent diluted in water (1:6) and soft bristled scrub brush.
NOTE: It is recommended to test for discoloration in an inconspicuous
place prior to removal of desired spot.
Structafoam Transom Platforms and Steps
These clean well with a spot remover made for rugs and carpets.
40
Teak
To keep teak looking fresh, it should be treated with teak oil at least
twice a year (more often if exposure is severe). If the teak is in particularly
bad condition, the teak oil should be rubbed in using 220 grit wet and dry
sand paper.
Repairing Fiberglass, Gelcoat Chips, Gouges and Scratches
Almost unavoidable during the life of your boat is damage to the
gelcoat or colored surface. This is not as serious as you might think. Repair
is not costly and can be done by the novice.
1. Scratches: If the scratch does not penetrate the gelcoat surface, use
automotive rubbing compounds. Dampen a soft rag or use a power
buffer. Apply rubbing compound with plenty of elbow grease. The
scratch may not disappear completely, however, its noticeability will
decrease.
2. Gouges and Chips: To repair, simply obtain “Patch Paste” from your
Bayliner dealer and follow this recommended procedure:
a
b.
a.
f.
Clean area to be repaired of wax and oil. Acetone is a good solvent.
Use a small portion of patch paste on a piece of cardboard, mix
thoroughly with the catalyst (two or three drops of catalyst to a
tablespoon of paste).
Apply to pit, chip or gouge with a single edge razor blade to match
the surface and the contour of the area being repaired. It's better
to have an excess than not enough of the paste.
Allow to harden thoroughly. In most climates, one to two hours
should be sufficient,
Shape the patch to desired thickness, using the fine wet sandpaper
on a sanding block.
Finish using automotive rubbing compound in the same manner
as for scratches.
CAUTION: Teak oil, acetone and catalyst are hazardous materials and
should be used only in well ventilated areas. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions only.
41
Special Care for Boats That Are Moored
If permanently moored in saltwater or fresh water your boat will col-
lect growth and grass on its bottom. This will detract from the boat's beau-
ty and greatly affect its performance. There are two methods of preventing
this:
1.
2.
3.
Periodic hautout and cleaning (about every 30 to 45 days). Use soap
and water and a lot of elbow grease.
Paint hull below water line with good grade of antifouling paint.
IMPORTANT: Blistering can occur in the gelcoat finish below the
water line on boats that are permanently moored. To protect
against this possible occurrence Bayliner recommends antifoul-
ing bottom paint be applied. This should include three coats of
International Paint Company's Interlux 404/414 barrier coat primer
and two coats of Tri-Lux bottom paint or an equivalent. It is best
and least expensive to have antifouling paint applied prior to first
launching.
Underwater Corrosion
Stray current corrosion or electrolysis can best be compared to elec-
troplating of chromium or brass, with the salt water acting as the electrolyte
and
the battery acting as the source of direct current.
Electrolysis can be prevented in several ways. The following are the
most common causes and the simplest cures for the problem:
1.
2.
3.
Keep a clean dry bilge. Wiring may leak a certain amount of electricity.
A poorly grounded zinc anode: Check ground wire, clean contact
surfaces.
The zinc anode may be deteriorated beyond effectiveness: Replace
at usually 50% loss.
Don't use a copper based bottom paint as it can cause electrolysis
on some metal parts. If your boat is permanently moored we recom-
mend you contact someone in your area specializing in corrosion con-
trol and have them check your boat in its moorage to see that it's prop-
erly protected.
Cabin Windows
Salt and brackish water are capable of etching and damaging glass.
Keeping windows clean is the best preventive measure you may take. When
cleaning, tush with plenty of fresh water.
42
Window Leakage
Cabin window leakage is uncommon, but should it occur it is simple
to remedy.
1. Mark the leak using a crayon or other nonpermanent marking.
2. Dry thoroughly. Sealer will not bond if moisture is present so you may
have to wait for a dry day.
3. Coat area with silicone type rubber sealant.
4, Allow sealant to dry well, then check by sprinkling with a hose. (Cabin
window or windshield leakage is not covered under the Bayliner
warranty.)
Convertible Tops and Back Covers
Convertible tops can be cleaned using a regular vinyl cleaner. Vinyl
cleaners may be obtained in grocery stores or auto parts houses. To pre-
vent rainwater seepage at the canvas seams, a coating of Scotch Gard
can be applied to the seams on the inside of the vinyl. Mildew can occur
if your boat does not have adequate ventilation. Heat alone won't prevent
mildew. If mildew does occur, it can be removed using a solution of hot
water and Clorox (one cup of Clorox to one gallon of hot water). Brush into
affected area, let set for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse with fresh water. if at
all possible, the vinyl top parts of your boat should be stored indoors in
a fairly warm, dry place. This will greatly extend the life of the material.
instruments—Care and Service
Your marine instruments have been designed and constructed of the
best possible materials and with proper care will give you years of trouble
free operation.
When using your instruments in a salt water environment, salt crystals
may form on the bezel and the plastic dial. These salt crystals should be
removed with a soft damp cloth; never use abrasives or rough dirty cloths
to wipe plastic parts. Mild household detergents or plastic cleaners can
be used to keep the instruments bright and clean.
43
Section V
Winterizing
If your boating season has ended or cold weather is setting in follow
these suggestions.
1,
Drain the engine block and manifolds. Frozen water expands and can
crack your engine. Consult your engine owner's manual for location
of drains. There can be drains on the block and the manifold.
Consult operating instructions provided with your head (toilet) for
winterizing. Drain self-contained heads.
Drain water tanks to avoid freezing and insure fresh taste in the spring.
Be sure to drain accumulated water in the pump to avoid damage due
to freezing. This is best accomplished by running the pump until empty.
On those boats equipped with hot water tanks, remove the drain plug
on the tank after all the water has been pumped out of the regular
water tank.
Fuel tanks should be kept completely full so there is little air space
to allow condensation, a major cause of sludge and gum that even-
tually creates problems.
Remove the marine battery from the boat. Fill the cells to proper level
and store in a warm place. DO NOT STORE ON A CEMENT FLOOR.
A fully charged battery will survive storage better.
Lubricate control and steering push-pull cables,
Clean the boat thoroughly. Coat deck hardware and other surfaces
with a metallic rust inhibitor.
IMPORTANT: Your boat should be stored under cover if possible.
If covered storage isn’t available then a temporary winter cover
is recommended. A proper winter cover should keep the weather
off the boat, but still provide adequate ventilation. Wrapping a boat
up in a tight plastic cover can do more damage than good. Damp-
ness and lack of air circulation provide ideal conditions for the
fungi that cause miidew and dry rot.
Bunk and dinette cushions may be left on board, however, they should
be stored on edge with plenty of ventilation.
If storing on a trailer:
a. Now is a good time to repack wheel bearings. Your local auto serv-
ice center can help you.
Block the trailer wheels off the ground to avoid tire deterioration,
Loosen stern tiedowns to avoid stress on hull.
d. Touch up trailer paint.
44
We hope the preventive measures will help make a spring get-ready
less work. However, don’t forget to consult your dealer as well as the engine
owner's manual for engine winterizing requirements.
NOTE: Bayliner does not sell accessories or other items directly to
the public due to production commitments. Qur dealers normally stock
many of our accessories or can supply them to you in a short time.
Your dealer will be happy to help you in any way possible.
Section VI
Propeller Recommendations
Variances in operating altitudes (highland vs. sea level} and loads can
affect performance. Changing to a propeller of a different size and pitch
can often compensate for the effects of increased load or altitude, and in-
sure peak performance.
The following propeller chart lists a recommended propeller for some
model and engine combinations. These recommendations are based on
operation at sea level with two persons and a light load in all models 1650
through 2750. Recommendations for models 3250 through 3870 are based
on sea level operation with four persons 4 and a light load.
Generally, for every 2500 feet above sea level it is advisable to
decrease propeller pitch two inches from the recommendations listed.
Every attempt has been made to equip your Bayliners with a propeller
that will optimize performance. Your boating needs, however, may make
a difference of propeller desirable. Your Bayliner dealer can help you in
the selection of a propeller best suited to your use.
On those high performance Bayliner models capable of speeds in ex-
cess of 50 mph, cavitation burn may be experienced on the propeller. High
performance propellers constructed of bronze or stainless steel are
available from the propeller manufacturers, but using these could void the
warranty on your drive unit. Props on these boats should be checked fre-
guently for cavitation burn if the boat is continuously operated at high
speeds. Replace propeliers as necessary when severe burn occurs,
45
PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS
Madel/Engine Prop/Rotation
CIERA
2150 Ciera Offshore
125V 15 x 17-R
225V 15 x 19-R
2450 Ciera Sunbridge
225V 15 x 19-1
260V 15 х 21-1.
125V (T) 15 x 17-L/H
2450 Ciera Command Bridge
225V 15 x 17-L
260V 15 x 19-L
125V (M) 15 x 17-L7R
2750 Ciera Sunbridge
260V 15x 19-L
125V (T) 15 x 15-L/R
COBRA
1600 Cobra
B5HP O/B 13 x 19-R
MOTOR YACHTS
2850 Contessa Sunbridge
260V 15 x 19-L
125V (T) 15 x 17-L/R
225V (T) 15 x 19-L/R
2850 Contessa Sedan Bridge
260V 15 x 17-L
125V (T) 15 x 17-L/H
225V (TM) 15 x 19-L/R
3250 Conquest
260V (T) 5 x 19C-L/R
3270 Explorer Command Bridge
080D ST-DR BMC (T) 16 x 14-L/R
165 ST-DR (T) 16 x 14-L/R
3870 Explorer
1300 ST-DR (7) 19 x 18-L/R
EXPLORER
2070 Explorer
125V 15 x 17-R
46
Max RPM
4400-4800
4000-4400
4000-4400
4000-4800
4400-4800
4000-4400
4000-4400
4400-4800
4000-4400
4400-4800
4500-5500
4000-4400
4400-4800
4000-4400
4000-4400
4400-4800
4000-4400
4000-4200
3800
4400
3150
4400-4800
Max Cruise
RPM
4300-4500
3400-3600
3400-3600
3400-3600
3400-3500
3400-3600
3400-3600
3400-3500
3400-3600
4300-4500
3000-4000
3400-3600
4300-4500
3400-3600
3400-3600
4300-4500
3400-3600
3400-3600
3500
3200-3400
2800
4300-4500
Volvo
Pinhole
MN NO PO
A3 PO Y
PO TO NM
—
2
2
Fixed
Fixed
Fixed
PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS (continued)
Max Cruise Volvo
Model/Engine Prop/Rotation Max RPM RPM Pinhole
TROPHY
1710 Bass
85HP O/B 13 x 19-R 4500-5500 3000-4000 2
1910 Center Console
125HP O/B 13 x 19-R 4500-5500 3000-4000 2
2060 Trophy Fisherman
125V 15 x 17В 4400-4800 4300-4500 2
2260 Trophy Fisherman
125V 15 х 15-R 4400-4800 4300-4500 2
2110 Cuddy O/B
125HP O/B 13 x 15-R 4500-5500 3000-4000 2
2460 Cuddy
225V 15 x 19-1. 4000-4400 3400-3600 2
2860 Cuddy
225 ST-DR (1) 18x 16L/R 4000-4400 3400-3600 Fixed
260V 15 x 19-L 4000-4400 3400-3600 2
4/
Section VII
Recommendations for Safety
1.
Fuel vapors are explosive and, being heavier than air, will settle in
the lower parts of a boat. While fueling, all doors, hatches and ports
should be closed, galley fires and pilot lights extinguished, smoking
strictly prohibited and the filling nozzle kept in contact with the fill pipe
to prevent static spark. Avoid spilling. Do not fill gasoline stoves,
heaters, or lights on board. Whenever possible, portable tanks should
be filled out of the boat.
. After fueling, thoroughly ventilate all compartments and check the
machinery and fuel tank areas for fumes before attempting to start
the engine. Remember that the electrical ignition and starting system
could supply the ignition to any accumulation of explosive vapors. Take
time to be safe. Keep all lines tight and bilges clean.
Do not overload or improperly load your boat. Maintain adequate
freeboard at all times: Consider the sea conditions, the duration of
the trip, the weather and the experience of the operator. Do not per-
mit persons to ride on parts of the boat that were not designed for
such use, Bow riding and seat back or gunwale riding can be especially
hazardous.
Keep an alert lookout. Serious accidents have resulted from failure
in this respect.
Be especially careful when operating in any area where swimmers
might be. They are often difficult to see.
Watch your wake. it might capsize a small craft. You are responsible
and it can damage boats and property along the shore, Pass through
anchorages only at a minimum speed.
Keep firefighting and lifesaving equipment in good condition and
readily available at all times.
Obey the rules of the road. Neglect of this is the greatest cause of
collision.
Always have children wear lifesaving devices. Always check those in-
tended for young children for fit and performance in the water on each
individual. Never hesitate to have “all hands” wear lifesaving devices
whenever circumstances cause the slightest doubt about safety.
Personal Flotation Devices
Requirements—One Coast Guard approved personal fiotation device
(PFD) of suitable size for each person aboard recreational boats, including
sailboats, rowboats, kayaks and canoes. New PFD's bearing Coast Guard
approval are now identified by “Types I, Н, Ш), or IV”
48
Mandatory Equipment
1.
Boats sixteen feet (16°) or over in length: One Type |, iI, or Ill (wearable)
for each person on board and one (1) type IV (throwable) in each boat.
. Boats less than sixteen feet (16”) in length and al! cances and kayaks:
One (1) Type |, IL, lll or IV PFD for each person on board.
Type | is an approved device designed to turn an unconscious person
in the water from a face downward position to a vertical or slightly
backward position, and to have more than 20 pounds of buoyancy.
Recommended for offshore cruising. Acceptable for ali size boats.
Type ll PFD is an approved device designed to turn an unconscious
person in the water from a face downward position to a vertical or slight-
ly backward position and to have at least 155 pounds of buoyancy.
Recommended for closer, inshore cruising. Acceptable for all size
boats.
Type Il PFD is an approved device designed to keep a conscious per-
son in a vertical or slightly backward position and to have at least 15.5
pounds of buoyancy. While having the same buoyancy as Type ll, the
Туре Ш has a lesser turning ability to allow for a comfortable design
for water activities such as water skiing. Recommended for in water
sports, or on lakes, impoundmenis, and close inshore operation. Ac-
ceptable for all size boats.
Type IV PFD is an approved device designed to be thrown to a person
in the water and not worn. It is designed to have at least 16.5 pounds
of buoyancy. Acceptable for boats fess than 16 feet and canoes and
kayaks as a throwable device for boats 16 feet and over in length,
Know your fuel tank capacity and cruising range. If it is necessary to
carry additional gasoline do so only in proper containers and take
special precautions to prevent the accumulation of such vapor in con-
fined spaces.
If you ever capsize, remember that if the boat continues to float it is
usually best to remain with it. You are more easily located by a search
plane or boat.
CAUTION: Some Bayliner trailerable boats contain flotation
material, however, no boat is unsinkable. Therefore, personal flota-
tion devices should be carried for each passenger in accordance
with US Coast Guard requirements.
Good housekeeping is even more important afloat than ashore.
Cleanliness diminishes the probability of fire.
Know the meaning of the buoys. Never moor {0 ong, it is a Federal
offense.
Consider what action you would take under various emergency con-
ditions such as man overboard, fog, fire, a stove-in hull or other bad
leaks, motor breakdown, bad storm or collision.
49
10.
11.
12.
13.
14,
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Have an adequate anchor and sufficient line to assure good holding
in a blow (at least six times depth of water).
Boat hooks are not required equipment but they are valuable when
mooring or when needed to retrieve pets, preservers (and people) over
the side.
Know the various distress signals. A recognized distress signal used
on small boats is to slowly and repeatedly raise and lower the arms
out stretched to each side.
Storm signals are for your information and safety. Learn them and be
guided accordingly.
Falls are the greatest cause of injury both afloat and ashore. Eliminate
tripping hazards where possible, make conspicuous those that must
remain, have adequate grab rails and require proper footwear to be
used on board.
Always have an up-to-date chart, or charts of your area on board.
Always instruct at teast one person on board in the rudiments of boat
handling in case you are disabled or fall overboard.
Keep electrical equipment and wiring in good condition. No knife swit-
ches or other arcing devices should be in fuel compartments. Allow
ample ventilation around batteries.
Before departing on a boat trip, you should advise a responsible friend
or relative about where you intend to cruise. Be sure that the person
has a good description of your boat. Keep him advised of any changes
in your cruise plans. By doing these things, your friend or relative will
be able to tell the Coast Guard where to search for you and what type
of boat to lock for if you fail to return. Be sure to advise the same per-
son when you arrive so to prevent any false alarms about your safety.
Do not test fire extinguishers by squirting small amounts of the agent.
The extinguisher might not work when nesded. Always follow approved
instructions in checking fire extinguishers,
A special flag hoist (red flag with white diagonal) flown from boat or
buoy means skin diving operations. Approach with caution and stay
clear at least 25 yards.
Your local US Coast Guard Auxiliary/Power Squadron generally puts
on a Safe Boating Class several times a year. They are very com-
prehensive and generally of minimal cost to you. Call your local US
Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadron Flotilla for the time and place
of the next class.
50
Section
Vili
Nautical Terms
ABEAM:
AFT:
BEAM:
BILGE:
BOW:
CHINE:
DRAFT.
FATHOM:
FREEBOARD:
GUNWALE:
HATCH:
HEAD:
HELM:
KEEL:
KNOT:
LEE:
MAYDAY:
FORT:
PORTLIGHT:
SCUPPER:
STANCHION:
STARBOARD:
STERN:
STERNDRIVE:
STRAKE:
TRANSOM:
WAKE:
WINDWARD:
Either side of the boat.
To the rear or near the stern.
The width of the hull.
The lowest portion inside a boat (in a fiberglass boat,
generally the underdeck and lower portion of the engine
compartment).
The forward portion of the boat.
The intersection of the sides and bottom of a V-bottom
boat.
Vertical distance from the waterline of boat to the lowest
point of the boat.
A measurement of 6 feet generally used to measure water
depth.
Vertical distance from deck to waterline,
Where hull and deck mest.
A covered opening in the deck.
Toilet or toilet room.
Steering wheel,
The lowest external portion of the boat.
Nautical mile per hour; nautical mile is 6,076 ft.; land mile
Is 5,280 ft.
Opposite from which the wind blows.
International spoken distress signal for radiotelephone.
To the left side of the boat.
A hinged window in the boat’s cabin,
An opening in a deck or cockpit permitting water to drain
overboard.
A fixed, upright post used for support (of rails).
To the right or right side of the boat.
To the rear of the boat.
Inboard/outboard unit.
One line of planks from bow to stern.
The vertical part of the stern.
Track or path a boat leaves behind while in motion,
The direction from which the wind is blowing.
51
Limited Warranty for Bayliner Boats
One Year Limited Warranty
Bayliner warrants to the original purchaser of its 1983 model boats
operated under normal, non-commercial use in the U.S. or Canada that
the Selling Dealer will repair or replace any parts found to be defective
in factory materials or workmanship within one year from date of retail
delivery.
What ls Not Covered
This warranty does not apply to: (1) Engines, drive trains, controls,
props, batteries or other equipment or accessories carrying their own in-
dividual warranties; (2) Engines, parts or accessories not installed by
Bayliner; (3) Window breakage or leaks; gelcoat finish, blisters, cracks or
crazing, (4) Hardware, vinyl tops, vinyl and fabric upholstery, plastic, metal
wood or tape trim; (5) Any Bayliner boat that has been altered, subjected
to misuse, negligence or accident, or used for racing purposes; (6) Any
Bayliner boat which has been overpowered according to the maximum
horsepower specifications on the capacity plate provided on each Bayliner
outboard boat; (7) Any Bayliner boat used for commercial purposes; (8)
Any defect caused by failure of the customer to provide reasonable care
and maintenance.
Other Limitations
THERE 1S NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTY ON THIS BOAT. TO THE
EXTENT ALLOWED BY LAW:
1. Any implied warranty of merchantability is limited to the duration of
this written warranty,
2. Neither Bayliner nor the selling dealer shall have any responsibility
for loss of use of the boat, loss of time, inconvenience, commercial
loss or consequential damages.
Your Obligation
We require that you return your boat, at your expense, to your Selling
Dealer or, if necessary, to the Bayliner factory. You will be responsible for
all transportation, haul-outs and other expenses incurred in returning the
boat for warranty service.
Some states do not allow limitations on how long any implied warran-
ty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you. Some states do not
allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages,
so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty
gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which
vary from state to state,
Bayliner Marine Corporation
PO. Box 24467
Seattle, WA 98134
e

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