Gardens Alive! 1009 Mixture/Blend Grass Seed Use and Care Guide

Spring & Fall
PLANTING
GUIDE
Easy Steps to Planting Nursery Stock
1 e Plant Right Away
Soak roots of bareroot trees, shrubs and
roses for several hours before planting.
Soak strawberries and perennials 1/2
hour. If you can't plant immediately, see
No. 4.
2. Protect Plant Roots
Don’t expose roots to air or sun—keep
covered with wet burlap or towels.
3. Planting Tips
Dig a hole wide enough to hold the roots
without crowding and deep enough to
set stock at the same depth it grew in
the nursery. Trim damaged roots before
planting. If the ground is hard, break up
the soil at the bottom of the hole and add
a little topsoil. Position the stock and add
several inches of soil. Firm soil gently to
remove air pockets, then water. When
water has soaked in, add remaining soil
and water again. Water frequently the
first year and mulch.
Since all fruit varieties (named cultivars
such as Red Delicious apple, Reliance
peach, etc.) are grafted, the planting
depth should be carefully monitored.
The graft or bud union (enlarged trunk
area located 4-8 inches above the roots)
should be planted so that the union
is 2-3 inches above the soil line after
settling. If planted deeper, the varietal
section above the union will produce its
own roots and become a full-size tree.
e [If Planting is Delayed
BEFORE PLANTING IN THE GAR-
DEN: You may heel-in trees and shrubs
GEN-PG-S15.indd 1
by digging a trench in a shady spot and
temporarily planting the roots under 6
inches of moist soil.
IF AREA IS NOT READY FOR PLANT-
ING: Sprinkle roots of trees, shrubs and
roses with water, rewrap and store in a
cool basement or unheated garage. Do
not allow the stock to freeze. Plant as
soon as possible.
Store strawberries and bareroot peren-
nials in a spare refrigerator (not used
for fresh produce) or in an unheated
area or basement until conditions are
right for planting. Wrap roots in damp
paper toweling and cover with a plastic
bag to prevent drying. Keep bulbs and
onion sets at 50°F. Store potted plants
on a sunny windowsill or in an outdoor
area protected from direct sun or frost.
Remove the cardboard sleeve and water
well until planting conditions improve. If
potatoes show mold, spread them out to
dry in an airy room.
5. Prune the Stock
Most stock is pruned before shipping to
avoid damage in transit, so only minor
pruning is needed. Remove crossed
limbs and broken branches.
6. Keep Watering!
One tree or shrub may bud and leaf out
quickly, while another will take much lon-
ger. This is normal. Keep watering on a
weekly basis if adequate rainfall of 1 inch
a week isn't received. If in doubt, lightly
scratch the bark with your fingernail. If
the wood is green, the plant is alive.
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
ARTICHOKES
Jerusalem—Cut the tubers into pieces
so that each knob has part of the main
tuber attached. 4-6 weeks before the last
frost date, plant the knobs 3-5 inches
deep and 18-24 inches apart in rows
36-42 inches apart. Tubers are ready for
digging after the tops are killed by frost.
Cut tops with a mower and dig like pota-
toes or leave in the ground and harvest
throughout the winter. Freezing won’t
hurt the tubers, but a heavy straw mulch
will keep the ground from freezing and
make digging easier.
ASPARAGUS
Plant 12-18 inches apart in spring or fall.
Prepare a trench 8 inches deep. Spread
the crowns over the soil and cover them
with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill the
trench with soil as the plants grow. (If
your soil is clay or heavy, you may wish
to add compost.) If planting in fall, fill the
trench in completely. Each spring, apply
3-5 pounds of fertilizer per 100 square
feet. Work into the soil before growth
starts. Repeat application after the har-
vest is complete. Cut the tops back and
mulch in late fall to help prevent deep
freezing and sudden changes in soil tem-
perature. Limit the first harvest to one or
two cuttings by mid June of the second
year. A full crop can be harvested the
third year after planting, when the spears
are 6-10 inches tall. (If planting 2-year
crowns, you should harvest a good supply
the second year.) Harvest for 6-8 weeks
only, or until about the first of July in the
North. When harvesting, snap off or cut
spears at ground level to avoid injuring
new growth.
BULBS
We recommend planting your bulbs as
soon as possible after they arrive. If plant-
ing must be delayed, open bulb bags to
allow air circulation and place in a cool
(45-55 F) location, away from direct sun-
light. Do not place bulbs where they can
freeze.
An excellent option for bulb storage is
a spare refrigerator, though you should
avoid storing your bulbs with fruit. The
2
GEN-PG-S15.indd 2
fruit emits ethylene gas which can be
harmful to your bulbs.
Your bulbs will flourish in most types of
well-drained soil. If your soil is sandy,
plant bulbs 1 inch deeper than the recom-
mendation on the bag label. If your soil is
heavy clay, plant bulbs 1 inch shallower
than the label recommends. The addition
of light organic matter such as peat moss,
leaf mold or compost will improve your
soil and provide better drainage. After
planting the bulbs, tamp the soil with your
hands to eliminate any air pockets. Water
thoroughly. Hardy bulbs, such as tulips
and daffodils, do not need to be lifted in
the fall, but a covering of mulch will help
protect the bulbs in colder climates.
Important Note—Leave the foliage on
all your bulbs after they bloom. Allow
the foliage to turn yellow and wither natu-
rally. The leaves provide nourishment to
the bulbs for next season’s blooms.
Note for Pink Daffodils—When pink
daffodils first unfold, the trumpet is a
lovely apricot-yellow color that gradually
changes to a soft pink. It is important to
plant this variety in a shaded or partially
shaded area, since the trumpet color
fades in full sun.
In colder climates, tender bulbs such as
gladiolus, cannas, dahlias or calla lilies
that are planted in the spring, must be
lifted in the fall. You may lift your bulbs
prior to a killing frost or as soon as the
frost has blackened the foliage. Dig up
the bulbs gently, being careful not to
cut or damage them. Cannas and dahlias
can also be overwintered in zones 5-7 by
covering with a 3- to 4-inch thick layer
of mulch.
Store them in a well-ventilated, frost-
free area until the foliage has dried up.
Remove the dried foliage and place
your bulbs in an unsealed paper bag,
old nylon stocking or a shallow, plastic-
lined box with a blanket of peat moss or
vermiculite.
Summer-flowering tender bulbs require
winter storage temperatures between
45-60°F. An ideal storage location
would be the vegetable compartment
of a refrigerator or an unheated garage
or basement. Most modern basements
aren't cool enough for winter bulb
storage.
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
Ever:
soil a
soil v
Prov
for n
the s
out.
tree
2 day
days
isn’t
sum
befor
Plant
plant
the x
Fruit
This
ensu
ares
seco:
Prop
graft
trun}
all fr
the
dwar
nent
after
Supp
and ;
inch
grou
to it.
previ
ject
from
lowe
prote
As yt
remc
any
othe
the t
The
the
n be
es of
indy,
com-
oil is
ower
lition
noss,
your
After
your
Vater
ulips
ed in
help
e on
Ulow
natu-
nt to
pink
isa
ually
nt to
tially
color
chas
lilies
st be
yulbs
s the
g up
ot to
hlias
-7 by
layer
frost-
1 up.
place
bag,
astic-
ss or
quire
ween
ation
ment
rage
1ents
bulb
EVERGREENS
Evergreens do best in fertile, well-drained
soil and prefer slightly acidic conditions—a
soil with a pH level range of 5.86.8.
Provide some form of temporary shade
for newly planted evergreens to help keep
the sun from scorching and drying them
out. This is the leading cause of young
tree loss. Water well, 1-2 gallons every
2 days for 2 weeks, then once every 7-10
days if adequate rainfall of 1 inch a week
isn’t received. Prune juniper and cedar in
summer; pine and spruce in May or June
before new growth hardens.
FRUIT TREES
Plant fruit trees as advised in the general
planting directions on page 1, following
the spacing recommendations from the
Fruit Planting Chart on this page.
This spacing, less than 50 feet apart,
ensures good pollination. Even trees that
are self-fruitful bear heavier crops when a
second variety is planted nearby.
Proper planting depth is also critical. The
graft or bud union (swollen area on the
trunk, about 4-6 inches above the roots of
all fruit trees) must be 1-2 inches above
the soil surface (after settling). With
dwarf- and Li'l-BIG"-size trees, perma-
nent staking is mandatory immediately
after planting. Use our patented Tree
Support System, which lasts a lifetime
and is very easy to install, or drive a 6-7
inch stake at least 18 inches into the
ground near the tree and attach the trunk
to it. If you use twine, tie it loosely to
prevent girdling.
Additionally, young fruit trees are sub-
ject to damage during winter months
from foraging rabbits. Until year four, the
lower 18-24 inches of the trunk require a
protective barrier during winter.
As your trees grow, prune in early spring,
removing crossed or injured limbs and
any branches which rub against each
other. This allows light into the center of
the tree. Don’t cut short spurs from the
main stem since these bear first fruit.
The general rule is to prune less during
the juvenile or early years, removing
GEN-PG-S15.indd 3
only the limbs that compete with desired
limbs. Apple and pear varieties with a
natural upright habit should have their
limbs spread to a 60-degree angle.
Starting in year five, prune out shaded
or crowded limbs annually in late winter.
Never leave stubs; cut limbs where they
connect with the trunk or other limbs you
want to keep.
Regular spraying stops insects before
they can damage your crop. Apply dor-
mant oil before buds begin to swell.
Spray trees with liquid fruit tree spray
when flower petals fall. Make follow-up
applications every 10 days or so until the
harvest nears.
With proper care, fruit trees will remain
productive for many years. To maximize
their productivity and quality, thin excess
fruit each year. For apples and pears,
remove one fruit per cluster. For peaches,
nectarines, plums and apricots, leave only
one fruit per 8-10 inches of limb space. Do
this just after the flower petals have fallen
or when tiny fruits become visible.
FRUIT PLANTING CHART
Planting Approx. Years to Avg.
Variety Distance Height Bearing Yield
LiTBIG” Apple 6 Ft. 57 Ft. 23 S5Bu.
Std. Apple 2535 Ft. 20-25Ft. 45 10-20 Bu.
SemiDwf. Apricot 10-14 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 35 24 Bu
Std. Apricot 1520 Ft. 1520Ft. 57 35Bu
Bush Cherry 5 Ft. 4-8 Ft. 23 1-2 Qts.
Dwarf Cherry 57 Ft. 67 Ft. 2-5 Bu.
Dwi. Pie Cherry 10Ft. 10-15Ft. 23 12Bu.
Std. Pie Cherry 20 Ft. 1520Ft. 34 25Bu.
Std. Swt. Cherry 20 Ft. 20 Ft. 46 3-7 Bu.
Std. Nectarine 15-20 Ft. 1520Ft. 34 3-8Bu.
Semi-Dwf, Nectarine10-15 Ft. 12-14 Ft. 23 1-3Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Peach 10Ft. 12-14Ft. 23 25Bu
Std. Peach 15-20 Ft. 20 Ft. 45 38 Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Pear 10-15 Ft. 8-15 Ft. 34 23 Bu.
Std. Pear 20-25 Ft. 2030Ft. 47 48Bu.
Semi-Dwf. Plum 10Ft. 12-14Ft. 23 12 Bu.
Std. Plum 15-20 Ft. 1525Ft. 34 24Bu.
3
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
GARLIC
Garlic is adaptable to a wide range of soil
types, but prefers well-drained soil high
in organic matter. Plant hardneck types in
late fall. Softnecks can be planted in early
spring or fall, depending on your location.
Just before planting, break bulbs apart
into cloves, making sure not to let the
cloves dry out. Plant cloves with pointed
end up at least an inch deep (2 inches for
Elephant Garlic) and 4 inches apart. After
planting, a layer of mulch may be added
to help retain moisture and maintain
soil temperature. The tops will begin
to die back as garlic reaches its peak
maturity. Recommended harvest time is
when most, but not all, of the foliage has
died back. Hang your garlic up in a cool
dry place for at least 2 weeks to allow it to
cure. It can then be stored in mesh bags
in a dark, cool, low humidity area.
HEDGES
Dig a trench 12-18 inches wide, setting
plants in a straight line or an offset zigzag
pattern at the depth they grew in the nurs-
ery row. (An offset pattern will give you
a thicker, fuller hedge but may require
1/3 more plants.) To stimulate branch-
ing, pinch off the ends of each new shoot.
When new growth reaches 10-12 inches,
trim it back several inches. Hedges should
be trimmed several times a season. If a
hedge is doing well, only minor pruning
is needed—particularly if you favor an
informal appearance. Be sure to prune the
top narrower than the bottom so that the
bottom gets sun. Prune flowering hedges,
such as lilacs and spirea, after they have
finished blooming. Hydrangeas, on the
other hand, should be pruned later in sum-
mer, removing only the stems that have
already flowered.
HORSERADISH
Horseradish thrives in sun or shade but
can become invasive in rich soil; keep it in
an out-of-the-way corner. Plant cuttings 3-4
inches below the surface and 8 inches apart
GEN-PG-S15.indd 4
in rows that are 16 inches apart. Keep the
soil evenly moist during the growing sea-
son. Your crop will be ready to harvest in 2
years. Harvest large roots after frost, leav-
ing the smaller roots for the next harvest.
HOUSEPLANTS/
PATIO PLANTS
Remove your houseplant from its packaging
immediately and place in a bright window
out of direct sunlight. Water as needed.
After several days, sun-loving plants may be
placed in direct sunlight. Don’t be surprised
if some plants lose their leaves due to
shipping stress—they are not dying. Keep
your plant in its original pot until it has had
time to recover from shipping stress and
produces two new leaves. Watch watering
needs closely while your plant is in a small
pot. When repotting, place into a larger pot
and water thoroughly. Avoid moving your
plant into a very large pot until it is ready or
root rot will likely result.
Most houseplants or patio plants thrive
on a monthly application of water-soluble
plant food. Be sure to follow the feeding
directions on the package.
Before freezing weather (below 29°F)
arrives, winterize patio plants. Angel
Trumpets and Elephant Ears should be
brought into your home. If this is not possi-
ble, an unheated garage or cool basement
would also work. Withhold fertilizer, and
water just enough to keep the soil slightly
moist. In spring, when the danger of frost
has passed, return the containers to their
outdoor location and water thoroughly.
When night temperatures drop below 50°F
in early fall, plants such as citrus, dwarf
banana, dwarf fig, dwarf pomegranate,
Mediterranean Olive, Coffee and Sweet Leaf
Plant need to be moved indoors. Provide as
much sun as possible; a south- or west-fac-
ing window is ideal. Avoid areas that would
expose your plants to hot dry air, such as
near heat registers. Growth will slow down
in wintertime. Withhold fertilizer at this
time and only water as needed. Return to a
patio setting once danger of frost has passed
in late spring.
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
p the
- sea-
tin 2
leav-
est.
ndow
>ded.
ay be
rised
1e to
Keep
s had
; and
ering
small
r pot
your
dy or
hrive
luble
ding
9° F)
\ngel
d be
)OSSI-
ment
‚ and
ghtly
frost
their
50°F
Iwarf
nate,
de as
st-fac-
vould
ch as
down
this
1to a
1ssed
NUT TREES
Follow the general planting directions
on page 1 and space as directed in the
chart below. Nut trees thrive in full sun
and well-drained soil. You can control the
few pests and diseases that trouble them
with liquid fruit tree spray. Most nut trees
are self-fruitful, but the male and female
flowers don’t always develop at the same
time. For best results, plant nut trees
in groups of two or more of like variety
within 50 feet to increase their chances of
pollination. Those not self-fruitful need a
pollinator planted nearby. Test harvested
nuts for soundness by placing in a bucket
of water. Save only those that sink to the
bottom. Dry and store in a cool place.
Shelled nuts can be frozen up to a year.
NUT PLANTING CHART
Planting Approx. Years to Average
Variety Distance Height Bearing Yield
Almond 25 Ft. 15-20Ft 37 12-15 Lbs.
Butternut — 40-50 Ft. 40-60Ft 10-15 50-100 Lbs.
Chestnut 40 Ft. 40-60 Ft. 7+ 30-40 Lbs.
Hazelnut 15 Ft. 15 Ft. 34 20-30 Lbs.
Hickory 40-50 Ft. 60 Ft. 7-10 25-50 Lbs.
Pecan 50 Ft. 40-75Ft 10-15 50-100 Lbs.
Walnut, Blk. 40-50 Ft. 50-75 Ft. 10-20 50-100 Lbs.
Walnut, Eng. 40-50 Ft. 40-60 Ft. 68 50-100 Lbs.
ONIONS
Sets—Plant sets as soon as the ground
can be worked. One pint will plant 25 feet
at 1-2 inches deep and 3-4 inches apart.
Plants—Plant in early spring, approxi-
mately 1 inch deep and 5 inches apart.
Onions are ready to harvest when 3/4
of the top has fallen over. After digging,
leave bulbs in the garden to cure for a
few days until roots are brittle. Spread
out on newspaper in a dry, dark spot for
2-3 weeks. Then remove dirt and papery
skin. Cut tops 1 1/2 inches above the
bulb. Store bulbs in mesh bags in a cool,
airy spot. Use those with thick necks first
as they are likely to be the first to spoil.
Shallots—Plant sets 1-2 inches deep and
4-6 inches apart. When foliage starts to
GEN-PG-S15.indd 5
wither, dig bulbs and cure 2-3 weeks
before storing like onions.
PERENNIALS &
GROUND COVERS
Perennials come back year after year if
left undisturbed. Some do not bloom the
first year but develop roots and foliage to
support flowers the next year and after.
The illustration below shows typical plant-
ing depths. The packaging your perenni-
als come in will have detailed instructions
for planting depth and spacing.
Setting Perennials
Soil Level
#1 #2 #3 4
Set irises and yuccas with roots barely
covered with soil (#1). Plant peonies,
lilies of the valley and hostas with buds
1-2 inches below the surface of the soil
(#2). Set plants with a distinct crown with
the crown even with the soil surface (#3).
Plant those without a distinct crown, that
look like a chunk of root, 1 inch deep. If
you can’t tell which end is up, lay the root
on its side (#4).
Perennials require little care after plant
ing. Mulching helps keep weeds down and
retains soil moisture. Fall-planted perennials
should be mulched heavily to prevent frost
damage. Remove faded and dying flow-
ers often to prolong the plant's flowering
period. Most perennials need to be divided
every 3-5 years to rejuvenate the plant as it
spreads. Ground covers are a special breed
of low-growing plant often used on banks
and slopes where it’s difficult to mow.
Potted Perennials—When you receive
your potted perennials, you might find that
some of the leaves are yellow or dried.
That does not mean the plants are dead. As
long as the root system is healthy, upper
foliage will soon regenerate.
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
Remove your perennial from the pot it was
shipped in by lightly squeezing or tapping
medium. Cut or tear off the bottom third
of the root ball. Use a trowel or knife to
then score a vertical indentation on all four
sides of the root ball. This helps the roots
to grow directly into the surrounding soil
rather than staying in the potting soil they
are grown in.
Ground Covers—Ground cover plants
prefer deeply worked, properly fertilized
soil that is free of weeds.
To create the most natural effect, stagger
your ground cover plants so individual
plants aren't lined up like ranks of sol-
diers. When planting on a slope, stagger
the plant arrangement and follow the
contour of the slope. Leave a depression
around each plant as a natural basin to
hold water.
Spread a 1-2 inch layer of mulch over
the area surrounding the plants, being
careful not to bury them. This helps to
retain moisture in the soil and retard
weed growth. Maintain the mulch cover-
ing until your ground cover plants have
spread over the entire planting area.
POTATOES
Many varieties of potatoes produce large
seed with many growth buds called eyes.
In order to achieve greater yields, these
larger whole seed potatoes (2" or more in
diameter) may be cut into pieces. Be sure
that each potato seed piece has at least one
or two eyes, cut into sections and allow
them to air dry at room temperature for
2-4 days prior to planting.
Potatoes do best in well-drained, well-
cultivated, rich soil. Dig a shallow trench
about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep.
Place cut seed pieces in the trench 8-10
inches apart, and cover with 3 inches of
soil. Continue to mound soil about half-
way up the stem of the plant as it grows.
Ensure that there is enough soil over the
forming potatoes so that they do not push
out of the hill and get exposed to light.
Keep rows weeded, but do not cultivate
6
GEN-PG-S15.indd 6
too deeply and irrigate weekly during dry
periods. Harvest young potatoes when-
ever tubers are large enough to eat,
usually 7-8 weeks after planting. Do not
dig up the entire plant. Instead, dig care-
fully around the plant and remove large
tubers. The smaller tubers can continue
to grow. Dig for winter storage when
plant tops begin to dry. Take care not to
bruise the skin. Dry for 2-3 hours, then
store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot.
ROSES
Soak bareroot roses in water for several
hours before planting. Plant in a sunny,
well-drained spot in early spring. Place
Planting Roses
the joint or bud union 1 inch above
the ground in warm regions and up to
2 inches below the ground in cold areas.
Mound 8-10 inches of soil around the top
of the plant and leave until new growth
appears (see illustration above). This pro-
tects the bud union, where most canes
originate, and helps roots get established
before top growth begins.
Once new growth appears, carefully
remove the soil mound and add mulch. A
2- to 4-inch layer conserves moisture and
helps keep weeds down. Water to supply
the equivalent of 1 inch of rain weekly,
soaking soil to a depth of 810 inches.
Fertilize after pruning in early spring and
just before plants bloom. An additional
feeding should be given as one flowering
period ends to stimulate the next one.
However, in cold climates, roses should
not be fed after August.
Prune just before new growth begins, as
the buds begin to swell. Hold off prun-
ing until danger of frost has passed or
newly trimmed tips may be killed. (NOTE:
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
Clim
bene
after
of th
suck
as ti
bran
(see
ing n
| Le,
To i
as th
prun
wher
Rose
regio
plant
coup
shou
befor
the g
Follc
g dry
yhen-
eat,
> not
care-
large
tinue
when
ot to
then
spot.
veral
inny,
Place
bove
1p to
reas.
e top
owth
5 pro-
anes
shed
1pply
ches.
y and
ional
ering
one.
ould
IS, as
prun-
d or
OTE:
Climbing roses are the exception. They
benefit from a light pruning immediately
after flowering.)
When pruning roses, remove 1/3 to 1/2
of the previous year’s growth. Trim off
suckers (canes emerging from the roots)
as they appear. Remove any damaged
branches and work to open the plant up
so air and sunlight can reach the center
(see illustration below). Additional prun-
ing may be needed in cold climates.
Proper Pruning for Roses
Remove deadwood, weak and twi
branches and any crossed branches
In cold climates, reduce bush
to half the size it was in fall
To improve production, remove flowers
as they fade. To keep climbers blooming,
prune just above the first five-leaf grouping
when the first flush of flowers has faded.
Roses need winter protection in northern
regions. Mound dirt, leaves or straw over
plants or cover with rose cones after a
couple of good, hard frosts. (The ground
should be frozen to a depth of 2 inches
before cones are added.) Lay climbers on
the ground and cover with heavy mulch.
TREES
Follow the general planting directions
GEN-PG-S15.indd 7
on page 1. Varieties that grow taller than
20 feet are best located at least 30 feet
from the street and the house. Larger
varieties look best alone; smaller ones
are more appealing planted in clusters of
two or three. After planting, trunks can
be wrapped to protect the bark from sun,
wind, insects, rodents and deer. This is
best done in fall and should be removed
the following spring. Wrap the tree from
the ground to the crotch of the first major
branches. Most trees are pruned before
shipment to avoid damage in transit.
However, they may need some additional
pruning. Prune out crossed limbs and
remove broken or injured branches by
trimming just outside the branch “collar” —
the small, raised area around the branch
where it grows from the main stem.
SHRUBS
Follow the general planting directions
on page 1. Give shrubs room to grow
by setting them rather far apart unless
you want to form a dense, upright hedge.
Its better to allow too much room than
too little since cramped quarters will
cause shrubs to lose their natural shape.
Set shrubs far enough from the house
so that they wont touch the walls when
mature. This avoids a cluttered look in
the landscape and, more importantly,
protects the health of the plants.
It permits air to circulate freely, lessen-
ing the chance of disease. Never plant
directly under the drip line of a roof where
shrubs could be damaged by falling icicles
or snow. Avoid planting under overhangs
where the plants won't get sufficient mois-
ture. Don’t place a shrub in an exposed
site if it's a variety that needs shelter from
winter winds. Most shrubs need very little
pruning—just enough to maintain the basic
shape of the bush and to keep deadwood
trimmed out. Shrubs should not be pruned
straight across the top because this spoils
their natural habit of growth. Lightly prune
early-blooming shrubs immediately after
they finish flowering. Midseason and late
bloomers can be pruned in late fall after
flowering or in early spring.
12/16/2014 1:16:28 PM
Hydrangeas—These plants thrive in
rich, moist soil and flower freely in sun or
shade. Flower color is determined by soil
acidity. Where soils are acidic, blooms
are blue. Where soils are alkaline, blooms
are pink. For pink flowers, sprinkle 1/2 to
1 cup lime around the plants at planting
time. For blue flowers, add 1/2 to 1 cup
aluminum sulphate. Prune stems which
have just borne flowers and leave those
that won't flower until next year (see
illustration below). Older, darker canes
can be removed almost at the ground. Go
easy on young, vigorous green shoots;
they shouldn't be drastically pruned.
Pruning
Hydrangea
Lilacs—Lilacs prefer cool temperatures
and early planting—as soon as the soil
can be worked—in a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
Never prune lilacs severely—just trim off
the old blooms immediately after flower-
ing. It's easy to see where you should
make the cut; you'll notice next year’s buds
developing just below this season's flower
clusters (see illustration below). As soon
as the blooms are spent, remove them to
make way for next year’s crop of blossoms.
Remove dried
flower heads
right after
blooming
These will
produce next
year’s flowers
GEN-PG-S15.indd 8
SMALL FRUITS
Follow the general planting instructions
on page 1. Prune any crossed limbs or
branches which rub against each other.
This lets light into the center of the plant
and becomes more important with each
successive season as plants get bigger
and bushier. Work the soil well so that
the plants’ roots aren’t restricted. Avoid
crowding—berry bushes need lots of
room because they're heavy feeders, and
the brambles put out numerous suckers.
Place small fruits away from fruit and
shade trees which might need spraying
when the berries are ripening.
Blackberries—All brambles require deep,
well-drained loam soil high in organic mat-
ter. They can't tolerate sandy soil or soil
that’s so heavy it leaves moisture standing
around the roots. Apply a balanced fertil-
izer at a rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square
feet. Cut plants back to 6 inches and place
them in the hole at the same depth they
grew in the nursery row. Space blackber-
ries 56 feet apart in rows 8-10 feet apart
and provide a trellis for trailing types (see
illustration below.) Canes can be woven or
tied to keep them in place. Do not allow
Training Blackberries
КС
12/16/2014 1:16:29 РМ
сапе:
Пу аг
ers «€
and -
type
Blue
ed w
day ¿
well-
matt
syste
mulc
keep
top £
in ro
ofor
ing
inste
Cu
Wor
tions
Ss or
ther.
plant
each
gger
that
\void
is of
,and
kers.
and
wing
deep,
mat-
r soil
1ding
fertil-
juare
place
kber-
apart
(see
en or
allow
vg
g о ®
canes to set fruit the first year. Water heav-
ily and mulch to reduce weeds. Thick lay-
ers of shredded bark, leaves, wood chips
and hay make excellent mulches for any
type of berry.
Blueberries—Blueberries must be plant-
ed where they have full sun most of the
day and acidic soil (a pH of 4.5-5.5) that’s
well-drained, porous and high in organic
matter. The plants have shallow root
systems and must be irrigated. A heavy
mulch will help retain soil moisture and
keep the roots cool. Prune off half of the
top growth and space plants 4-5 feet apart
in rows 8-10 feet apart. Incorporate plenty
of organic matter in and around the plant-
ing holes. Control weeds with mulch
instead of cultivation.
Pruning
Blueberries
Cut out
weak
laterals
| À Cut out
A ETS! ts stems
In cold climates, blueberries benefit from
a thick layer of mulch during the winter.
Prune for fewer but larger berries by
removing old branches; fruit is produced
on year-old wood.
Boysenberries—Set plants 6 feet apart in
rows 8 feet apart. Mulch with straw or com-
post. Culture is the same as for blackber-
ries. Plants can be left to trail on the ground
the first season. In the fall, after growth has
stopped, prune back half of new growth.
Cover with additional mulch just before the
ground freezes. When vines begin to bud,
build a three-wire trellis with the top wire 5
feet high and the bottom wire 2 feet above
the ground. Weave vines onto the trellis in
a fan shape. Remove small canes and prune
long ones to fit. Do not cultivate. Cut out old
canes and destroy them after the harvest.
GEN-PG-S15.indd 9
Cranberries—Grow this ground cover-
like plant in an environment similar to
blueberries, spacing the plants 3 feet
apart. While the plants do not need to be
grown in a bog, they do prefer plentiful
moisture. Cover the plants when frost
threatens in the spring to prevent damage
to flowers or fruits.
Currants, Gooseberries and Josta-
berries—These plants do best in rich soil
that is cool and moist but has good drain-
age. Plant 5 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart,
in full sun where summers are mild and in
a partially shaded location where summers
are hot and dry. Trim stems back by 2/3
after planting. Prune in spring after flower-
ing. Fruit is produced on older wood—in
the fall, remove any wood more than 3
years old.
Elderberries—Elderberries thrive in
moist, heavy soil and do not tolerate
drier conditions. Plant 7-20 feet apart in
full sun. Plants grow 12-14 feet tall; some
pruning is necessary to maintain size and
shape. Berries are produced on the end of
the current season’s growth.
Grapes—Grapes thrive in fertile, well-
drained soil. Choose a site that offers
protection from wind and late frost. If
possible, run vines east/west to reduce
shade cast by the trellis. Work in fair
amounts of compost before planting but
don’t overfertilize. Set the plants 8 feet
apart in rows 10 feet apart. For the first
year, main stems should be allowed to
grow unchecked, and vines should be
trained on a trellis using two support
wires. Prune in winter when dormant but
before the weather becomes too cold.
Pruning Grapevines
12/16/2014 1:16:29 PM
Canes that have borne fruit should be
pruned back sharply (see illustration on
p. 9). Remove old canes coming from the
main stem and leave four new canes
(shoots that started to grow the previous
spring). The new canes should be cut back to 6
or 8 inches and 3 or 4 buds. These buds, found
at the joints, produce the new shoots that bear
leaves and grapes the following summer. Four
of these new shoots will be used to repeat the
same fruiting and pruning process the follow-
ing winter.
Goji Berries—Plants do best in well-drained
soil with moderate fertility. They will tolerate
almost any soil type except for wet, soggy soil.
Plant 58 feet apart in full sun to partial shade.
Prune heavily in the fall to maintain plant and
increase fruit production. Plants will typically
begin bearing fruit after their 2nd or 3rd grow-
ing season.
Hardy Figs—This pestfree plant does best
in moist, welldrained soil and full sun. Space
plants 10 feet apart. North of zone 6, figs may be
grown in pots. Bring potted figs indoors during
winter months. North of zone 7, plants may die
back to the ground unless protected by mulch
for the winter.
Honeyberries—Plants do best in moderately
drained, moist soil. Mulch to retain moisture.
Plant in full sun where summers are mild; in par-
tial shade where summers are hot and dry. Set
plants 4-5 feet apart, fertilize and mulch annually,
and prune to maintain shape. It is best to plant at
least two varieties as crosspollination is required
to produce fruit.
Kiwis—Plant in any welkdrained soil, mulch to
retain moisture and keep plants shaded during
the hot part of the day until well established.
This is a fruiting vine that requires support, like
a trellis similar to one you'd use for grapes, only
stronger. (See illustration at right) Endposts
should be 46 inches in diameter and 68 feet
tall, with strong wires stretched between them.
Place a temporary stake the height of the trellis
next to each plant.
The first season's growth should be tied to
this stake and allowed to grow to the top of
the trellis (see A). Remove suckers and all but
four lateral branches cut back to 18 inches,
directing the plants energy toward a single
10
GEN-PG-S15.indd 10
trunk. After the vine reaches a top wire, cut
it back 3-6 inches to just above a plump bud.
This causes the central vine to split and grow
into a Y shape. Train lateral growth to wires
but don't allow the two new leaders to twine
around the wire supports (see B).
Once trained to a trellis, prune your kiwi regu-
larly. In late winter or early spring, trim away
3yearold branches (those that have finished
a second year of fruiting) and any damaged or
twisted wood. Keep fruiting laterals pruned to
12 buds. You should also prune where neces-
sary to keep branches 2 feet above the ground.
Hardy kiwi generally begin bearing 3-10 years
after planting. The Issai and Arctic Beauty vari
eties bear within 4-7 years if properly pruned.
Kiwi Trellis System
Mulberries—Mulberries prefer a damp
location in fertile, loam soil. Add a gener
ous helping of organic matter to the site
before planting and work it in well. Male
and female flowers are produced on sepa-
rate trees, so it is best to plant in groups of
three to five to ensure proper pollination.
Set plants 15 feet apart or 3 feet apart for a
hedge. Water frequently the first few years,
12/16/2014 1:16:29 PM
Pull
sucke
the c
prod:
es. L
been
Whe
above
e, cut
bud.
grow
twine
away
ished
ed or
ed to
1eces-
ound.
years
y vart
lamp
rener-
> site
Male
sepa-
ps of
ation.
for a
jears,
especially during fruit development.
Mulberries grow 25-40 feet tall and bear 4-5
years after planting.
Pawpaws—Plant pawpaws in a fertile,
moist location where they will have plenty
of room to grow; the trees can reach 30
feet in height. Pawpaws do best in full sun
but will tolerate partial shade. Plant two
or more for best pollination. Little mainte-
nance is required. Simply water during dry
spells and fertilize each spring. Harvest when
fruit is soft and coppery brown to almost
black.
Persimmons—These trees can grow
to 30 feet or more, so be sure to give
them lots of room. Plant in full sun, dig-
ging a deep hole so the taproot fits without
curling. Curling or crowding the taproot can
kill the tree. Fertilize and mulch each spring.
Water during dry periods. Prune out suckers
as they appear. Persimmons do not ripen
until late in the fall. The crop is best harvested
after a frost, when the fruit is softened and
slightly creased.
Raspberries—Raspberries are a
bramble fruit and should be cultivated
as you would blackberries. Plants are more
erect, however, and still benefit greatly from
a simple trellis. Space red and yellow variet-
ies 2 feet apart in rows 6 feet apart; blacks
and purples 3 feet apart in rows 8 feet apart.
(NOTE: Plant blacks and reds 300 feet apart
to prevent the spread of disease.) Except in
Pruning Red Raspberries
Pull 4% 'f | |
out ii Us 1, i |
suckers — 1! IM Ш 1/7 X
| М)
POLEA FS A
"y Fh в == ALS
the case of fall-bearing types, new canes don't
produce fruit and put out few, if any, branch-
es, Little thinning is needed until plants have
been in the ground for a few years.
When thinning brambles, leave the thickest
canes and remove the thinnest (see illustration
above.) Prune red and yellow raspberries back
GEN-PG-515.indd 11
to 812 buds on a cane, leaving the thickest
canes at least 4-6 inches apart in the spring.
Remove the fruiting canes after harvest. Prune
blacks and purples when new growth starts
in the spring, leaving 10-15 buds per cane and
four-five canes per clump. Encourage branch-
ing by pinching back the tips of black rasp-
berry plants in late summer (see illustration
below.) With reds, remove suckers rather than
canes from original plants.
Pruning Black Raspberries
Head back
or pinch
Rhubarb—Plant divisions in spring, spac-
ing plants 3 feet apart in fertile soil. Position
crowns 34 inches below the soil surface
(see illustration below). Water heavily, culti-
vate regularly and feed generously the first
year. Stalks can be lightly harvested the
second year. After that, they may be pulled
during a 6-week period from early spring
until early summer. Plants can be mowed,
dug and divided in either fall or spring.
Rhubarb Planting Depth
3-4"
Saskatoon Blueberries—Native to North
America, this hardy shrub provides blue-
berry-like fruit in harsher climates and
drier, more alkaline soils than true blue-
berries. Plant in full sun to partial shade
and water regularly for best fruit produc-
tion. Prune only to maintain an attractive
shape or to remove crowded or damaged
branches. 11
12/16/2014 1:16:29 PM
Strawberries—Strawberries need well
worked soil with good drainage and plenty
of organic matter. Add 1 pound of fertilizer
per 100 square feet. Plant so that the crown
is even with the surface of the soil and make
sure all the roots are covered.
Junebearing strawberries produce a
single crop. Everbearers produce one crop
during the regular strawberry season and
another smaller one later in fall, plus a few
fruits in between. Day neutrals are the
truest everbearers, producing fruit spring,
summer and fall.
Set strawberries 15-24 inches apart, water
well and mulch with straw. Remove blos-
soms from Junebearers the first year.
Remove everbearer and day-neutral blos-
soms until July 1, then allow the plants to
set fruit. This allows the plants to become
established so they'll set far more berries
the second year than they ordinarily would
have. Water them well, keeping the top 2
inches of soil evenly moist all season long.
Protect in cold climates with a winter
mulch.
VEGETABLE PLANTS
If your vegetable seedlings arrive on a
cloudy day, plant them right away. If it is
hot and sunny, wait to set the plants out
until late afternoon or early evening, dig-
ging to the correct depth and spacing for
each. Fill the holes with water and let it
soak in. This first soaking gives the roots
plenty of moisture to get seedlings off to
a good start. Set the plants in the holes
and firm the soil around them to remove
air pockets. Leave a slight depression
around each plant to collect and hold
moisture; water well. If temperatures still
dip below freezing at night, protect newly
planted seedlings by covering them with
protective caps or floating row covers.
VINES
Plant vines a minimum distance of 1 foot
from the house to ensure adequate air cir-
culation. After they're planted, cut them
back and stake them securely. Lightly
firm the soil around the roots and fertil-
ize after new growth appears. Remember
© 2016 Scarlet Tanager LLC, dib/a Gurney's Seed and Nursery Co. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
vi_12.indd 1
that climbing vines need plenty of water
and well-drained soil.
Bittersweet—This vine does well in poor
soil and full sun to shade. Both a male
and female plant must be planted for
fruiting to occur. Great for fences,
rock piles or old trees.
Clematis—A key essential to establish-
ing your clematis plant is to make sure the
root system is kept cool. A sunny location
where roots can grow under a cool cover-
ing, such as other perennials, mulch or a
large flat rock is ideal. Deep planting—
about a half inch deeper than it was grown
in the nursery—encourages extra-strong
root development. Frequent, thorough
watering stimulates vigorous growth.
Honeysuckle—This twining vine needs
full to partial sun and a sturdy support
such as a fence. Prune in spring, remov-
ing deadwood or broken vines.
Hops—Lay root cuttings on their side
in a 6-inch trench, covering them with 2
inches of soil. Gradually fill in trench as
the vine grows. Keep well watered.
Silver Lace—Another twining type, this
adapts to most conditions. Provide good
support and prune in late fall or early spring.
Trumpet—Place in full sun and secure to
a support. This vine can take 3-7 years to
bloom after planting. Prune vigorously in
spring, as it flowers on new growth.
Wisteria—Wisteria prefers slightly acid-
ic, organic soil and flowers 3-5 years
after planting. Provide a sturdy support
and trim back aggressive growth during
the summer. Regular pruning in spring
encourages formation of flower spurs.
WINDBREAKS
Plant windbreaks to the north and west
of the area you're planning to shelter.
The first row should be planted 100-150
feet away from the house or building to
be protected. Follow the general planting
directions on page 1. Trees will grow two
to three times faster if weeds are kept
down the first 2 years.
GEN-PG-S16
12/18/15 9:15 AM