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Chesapeake Performance Models
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CR-914
Assembly Instructions
Chesapeake Performance Models
227 Main St.
Stevensville MD 21666
410-604-3907 www.rcyachts.com
Chesapeake Performance Models
Copyright © 20
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CR-914 Kit Assembly Instructions
Revised 20
14
Read these instructions before starting to build the boat.
INTRODUCTION
For many years the CR 914 kit instructions were in two parts. The builder had to jump between the original factory instructions and the later “Upgrade Instructions” in order to complete the boat, a difficult and often confusing task. Chesapeake Performance Models has now completed the work of combining the two instructions into one document. Building the boat will now be a much easier task with a better result.
ORDER OF ASSEMBLY
These instructions give the recommended order of construction for the first time builder.
Page
PARTS INVENTORY
1 ASSEMBLE THE "DRY DOCK"
2 INSTALL SHAFT PIPES AND COMPRESSION POST
3 PREPARE FOR EPOXY OPERATION
4 EPOXY OPERATION a. ASSEMBLE BALLAST AND KEEL FIN b. REINFORCE KEEL c. REINFORCE KEEL
5 FINISHING THE HULL, KEEL AND RUDDER
6 INSTALL HATCH COVERS
7 INSTALL RADIO COMPONENTS
8 INSTALL DECK PARTS
9 MAST CONSTRUCTION
10 BOOM CONSTRUCTION
11 STANDING RIGGING
12 SAILS
13 RUNNING RIGGING
14 INSTALL THE RUDDER AND KEEL
15 BEFORE SAILING and DEFINITIONS
16 SAILING TERMINOLOGY and OPERATION
9
9
10
11
12
13
15
16
19
21
22
23
8
2
4
5
6
1
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Parts Inventory
Inventory all parts in the kit to assure nothing is missing and you can confidently identify each part.
A small zip-lock bag contains the basic screws:
15/ 16 ”
1/2” long
3/8” long
1/4” long
3/8” long
5/ 16 ” long
(Approx. 1/4” Diameter wire wound ring)
Mast
Mast
Do not use these sail numbers if the boat is to be registered.
2
Upgrade Kit Parts List
:
Electronics Mounting Board
Wood Cross Beams – Short & Long
Wood Compression Post 2 15/16”
Rudder Linkage –
Rod
Ball Links
Ball Link Sockets, Nylon
Hex Nuts
Antenna Tube
Velcro
Stainless Self Tapping Screws 5/16”
Spectra Rigging Line
White Dacron Corner Patches
Mylar Sticky Back Triangles
White Sticky Dots
Rubber Drain Plug
Epoxy Pack w/ Thickening Powder
CA Glue
CA Glue tip extension
Allen Wrench
Quantity
1
1 each
1
6
6
12
1
1
1
1
1
6
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
Important:
Screw identification
There are three different packages of screws: a. The small zip-lock bag contains the basic screws provided by AG to build the kit
(These are also listed on page 2):
8 2 Extra large Screws -
9 2 Large Screws -
10 12 Medium Screws -
11 6 Small Screws -
Round Head 15/16” Long
Round Head 1/2” Long
Round Head 3/8” Long
Round Head 1/4” Long
12 12 Flat Screws -
13 2 Bolts -
Flat Head 3/8” Long
Round Head Machine Screws 5/16” Long b. In the large electronics bag two smaller bags contain the screws used to install the servos:
8 Hold-down Screws – Rd. Head screws 9/16” Long c. In the up-grade kit are the screws that fasten the electronics board to the beams and the sail trimming arm to the winch:
6 Stainless Steel Screws: Round Head Screws 5/16” Lg.
15/16” long
1/2” long
1/4” long a. Use the two "extra large" screws (longest of the kit screws) for the main pivots of the stand.
Enlarge the holes in the parts “B” so screws insert easily. If necessary, enlarge the screw holes in parts “C” so screws won’t break. b. Cut the blue nylon strap in half. Seal the ends of the strap by melting with a hot knife heated using a lighter. Alternatively, use CA (cyanoacrylate) glue to seal the ends. c. Use the “small screws” - round head ¼” long” to attach the straps so that the hull does not touch the side bars. d. If required when the boat is fully assembled, adjust the straps so that the keel does not touch the ground.
4
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Hatch Opening
Keel Pipe
Dry fit the Compression Post .
Dimple the top of the wood post with a 1/8" drill bit. The dimple will center the post on the rear under deck screw molding for the mast step. The bottom of the post rests on top of the keel trunk.
Preparation of Shaft Pipes a. Check to assure the shaft pipes slip easily onto the keel and rudder shafts. Remove burrs from the shafts and inside edges of the pipes if required. b. Shaft Pipes should be a snug fit in the hull. If the holes in the hull are too small, enlarge them using a matchstick wrapped with sandpaper. Invert the hull to work on the keel and rudder holes. c. Before gluing, prepare the outside ends of the pipes by cleaning with a solvent (alcohol works) before and after sanding the pipes. Also clean the holes in the hull. d. CAUTION : Position the bottom end of the keel pipe in the hull so it is flush or slightly inside the edge of the hole.
Keel Pipe Installation
With the CA Glue tip extension attached to the end of the CA tube, CA glue the keel pipe and the compression post at the same time. CA glue both ends of the keel pipe from inside the hull. Hold the hull upsidedown overhead to glue the top of the keel tube and compression post. The thin glue will penetrate the wood and also seal the tube to give a good bond. Flip the
5 boat over and carefully apply CA to the Keel pipe hull joint. Wick up any extra CA with a paper towel.
Rudder Pipe Installation a. Remove burrs from the circular recessed surface in the cockpit where the pipe holder (white part #3) is installed. b. Insert the rudder tube up through the hull from the underside until it is flush or slightly protruding from the outside of the hull (the small amount of protruding tube will be easily sanded off during the hull finishing steps). c. Center the top of the rudder tube by eye in the open area of the cockpit floor. CA glue the bottom of the tube in place by running the thin glue down from the inside. Allow the glue to cure. d. Run a bead of CA glue around the seating lip and place the pipe holder (White Part #3) gently into position. e. Place a small drop of CA glue on the aft side of the exposed upper tube at the point where the tube meets the plastic pipe holder. Capillary action will create a proper seal around the tube.
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PREPARE for the “EPOXY OPERATION”
BALLAST AND KEEL FIN TRIAL ASSEMBLY
Sand the lead ballast and the keel fin to remove casting and die marks before assembly. Trialassemble the bulb and fin using the two ”large screws” that are ½” long.
NOTE : The aft keel screw may not “bite-in” to the plastic keel fin. The front screw and the epoxy of the next step adequately secure the assembly. Check that the axis of the lead ballast is perpendicular to the shaft in the keel fin.
DO NOT MIX THE EPOXY YET. We are trial fitting for now.
If you wish you can drill the aft screw hole a little deeper to allow more bite into the fin.
Round Head 1/2” Long
KEEL TRUNK REINFORCEMENT This is very important.
Plan to use a generous fillet of thickened epoxy inside the boat around the front and back of the keel trunk.
Carefully prepare the fillet area on the hull by cleaning with a solvent before and after thoroughly sanding the hull surface. (Alcohol is an effective solvent.)
Thoroughly sand the area around the trunk and the trunk sides. Remove the dust and clean the area with alcohol again.
The fillet strengthens the trunk-to-hull area to prevent cracks and leaks during normal usage and handling.
DO NOT MIX THE EPOXY YET.
N O T E :
A D D A G R E A T E R A M O U N T
O F E P O X Y A T T H E F R O N T
A N D R E A R S P O T S .
F I L L E T
6
ELECTRONIC MOUNTING BOARD
The mounting board is initially assembled outside the hull.
Layout of Electronic Mounting Board
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All rights reserved. a. The Crossbeams are cut to length and beveled to fit the hull. The shorter beam goes forward, longer beam aft. Measure and center the board on the beams. Mount the board on the beams using four of the 5/16” long screws that came in the upgrade kit. The aft beam must not interfere with the large sail servo opening. b. Sail Winch Servo (The larger one.) Install the four black rubber bushings to the servo corners. Push the brass sleeves down through the bushings. Install the servo on the board using the screws provided in the electronics bag. c. Install the Rudder Servo the same way. d. The On/Off Switch is mounted on the board as follows: Remove the two screws located on the face of the switch. Separate the faceplate from the main switch body. Locate the switch body on the underside of the electronics board with the short wire leading aft.
Mount the faceplate on top of the board and insert the two screws into the switch body.
Tighten up the screws and test operate the switch. The switch should be “On” when the switch lever is forward. e. Remove the two servos after they have been test fit. Leave the switch mounted. f. Remove one of the screws from each crossbeam for the next step. g. Rotate the beams to insert the board into the hull through the hatch. Re-align the beams
7 and re-install the screws. h. Position the board’s forward edge 3/8 inch back from the brass keel pipe. Measure from the deck down to the top of the platform on each side to assure that the platform level. i. Clearly mark on the hull the four footprints of the ends of the beams j. Sand and clean with alcohol the footprint area to assure a good bond. k. Slide the board aft far enough to give easy access to the keel trunk. l. Consider squaring off the front of the hatch opening to give access to the forward beam screws. This allows easier removal of the mounting board if that becomes necessary.
Alternatively, drill two holes for a screwdriver within the hatch boundaries defined by the
Hatch Rail, Part 5.
OPTION NOTE
Another way to allow easy removal of the radio board is to open the forward crossbeam screw holes in the board to form notches. Now after the board and supports have been installed, by removing the aft screws you can remove the radio board. For more information and photos check out http://www.rcyachts.com/Build/ radioboard.htm
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EPOXY OPERATION
Before mixing the epoxy, perform a dry run of the entire operation of this section.
The objective is to quickly complete the operation before the epoxy starts to cure. The order of assembly/installation is:
••••
••••
MIX THE THICKENED EPOXY
ASSEMBLE BALLAST AND KEEL FIN
•
•
REINFORCE KEEL MOLDING IN HULL
INSTALL THE ELECTRONIC MOUNTING BOARD
EPOXY OPERATION DETAILS
1 Thoroughly mix the entire contents of the epoxy package. Add the powder thickener until the consistency is like peanut butter.
You will have more powder then you need. If the mixed epoxy is spread thinly on a plastic coffee can top, it will cure more slowly and give more working time.
2 Keel Assembly – Use a generous amount of epoxy in the slot in the ballast for the fin and assemble using the screws. Check that the axis of the lead ballast is perpendicular to the shaft in the keel fin. Fill the screw holes on the bottom of the ballast and remove any excess epoxy. Set aside to cure
3 Apply generous dollops of epoxy to the four marked footprints for the Electronics Board.
Do not place the mounting board into position yet, wait until step 6.
4 Reinforce Keel Trunk– Use most of the remaining epoxy to form a generous fillet at the front and back of the keel trunk in the bottom of the boat. Apply some epoxy at the bottom of the compression post and keel shaft pipe.
5 Install the Electronics Board – Carefully lift the board and move it forward to place it in position on the dollops of epoxy. Check the distance from the Keel tube and smooth the epoxy to form fillets at the beam-ends.
6 Allow the epoxy to cure for four to five hours.
N O T E :
A D D A G R E A T E R A M O U N T
O F E P O X Y A T T H E F R O N T
A N D R E A R S P O T S .
F I L L E T
8
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5
“FINISHING THE HULL, KEEL & RUDDER”
For the step-by-step guide to painting or polishing the hull unpainted, see the two page
“HULL FINISHING DETAILS” guide at the end of this booklet. a. Install #4 Eyelet, part 9, (at the backstay location) using 3/8 inches long flat head screws and no glue before starting hull finishing. This is because the screw points may create bumps on the bottom of the hull near the transom. Avoid this by slightly shortening the screws after initially starting them in the holes. b. There are sizeable imperfections in the bow sections of the hull. They can be sanded out as instructed. If you plan to paint the hull you can also use any polyester putty like “Bondo” to fill these imperfection. c. CAUTION : Minimize sanding the hull at the deck edge to avoid excessive thinness at this critical location. d. Most model owners leave the rudder and keel white or paint them white. It is easier to detect weeds or other debris caught on them while sailing.
TIP - PAINTING A WATERLINE
To put a waterline on your boat I use the following method:
You will need a smooth FLAT surface (an old mirror for example), pencil, block of wood about 4” high, a block of wood about 1/2”x1”x5” and a number of rubber bands.
Place the hull upside down on the flat surface. Place the
1/2”x1”x5” shim block under the aft end of the hull.
Take the other block of wood and securely rubber band the pencil to the block. This becomes a scribe. Adjust the pencil on the block so it touches the hull about half way up the knuckle at the bow. Now with out moving the pencil on the block adjust the aft shim block so the pencil touches the hull 3 inches aft of the rudderpost hole.
With these two points set the same height above the flat surface, lightly run the pencil scribe down the side of the hull. This line is the bottom of the water line.
With both sides of the hull marked move the pencil down on the hull to scribe the top of the waterline.
6
FLAT SMOOTH SURFACE
INSTALL HATCH COVERS
a. With the boat level sparingly apply CA glue to the bottom of the hatch rail trough. Be very careful not to press down on the upper (B) part of the hatch rail part 5, before the CA glue sets.
It will close the slot where the hatch actually slides in. It is easiest to push down on the lower flange with a flat blade screwdriver. Do not insert the hatch until the glue is thoroughly cured. b. On the hatch itself the small handle should
9 not be used. Tie a string loop through the slit. To cover the slit and hold the string loop in the center, fold a white sticky dot in half, stick half the dot on the top of the slit and fold the other half of the dot underneath to the bottom side of the hatch. Make a small cut in the dot half that gets folded under to allow the string to pass. c. The stern hatch cover is not required and many owners do not use it. Your choice.
7
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INSTALL RADIO COMPONENTS
1 After the epoxy has cured for 4 or 5 hours, reinstall the sail winch and rudder servo.
2 Use the supplied Velcro to: a) mount the Rx (receiver) inside the boat on the inside bottom of the cockpit floor as far aft as wires will reach and, b) mount the battery case on the bottom of the hull under the cockpit.
3 Connect the Rx - Plug the rudder servo connector into channel 1, the sail servo
INSTALLING THE RECEIVER ANTENNA
EXTERNAL ANTENNA a. Find the white plastic antenna tube with a black collar. b. Drill a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the black collar. c. Locate the hole as shown above. d. Remove the black collar and insert about 1/3 of it into the hole. e. Use CA to glue the collar to the hull. f. Feed a messenger string into the hull through the collar and tie it to the end of the antenna wire. g. Gently pull the antenna out through the collar. h. Thread the antenna through the white tube and tie a knot in the end. Insert the tube into the black collar.
INTERNAL ANTENNA OPTION
An internal antenna arrangement must ensure the antenna is mounted against the underside of the deck, not in the bottom of the boat. Ideally, the antenna will be installed in a straight line, not coiled or bunched in one location.
Sail Trimmer 33
Sail Servo Arm Assembly
P U L L E Y A S S E M B L Y
C A G lu e
33
1 2
1 1
SAIL WINCH a. The sail winch will have a round plate installed. Replace it with the white four-horn piece. It has correctly spaced screw holes. Install the Sail Trimmer arm, part 33, on the RED four-horn piece. See the drawing. Use two 5/16” long round head stainless steel screws. Trim off the three unused horns. See the sketch. b. Save one of these horns for the Jumper Stay adjuster shown in section #7, “Standing Rigging”. c. Install the pulley assembly on the bottom of the Sail
Trimmer arm. d. CA posts of #34 to sail trim arm from the top of the arm e. Caution : Use part #34 not part #13. Part #34 has two posts that fit into holes on the end of the arm.
3 4
B o lt
10
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8
INSTALL DECK PARTS
a. DO NOT use glue to attach the five screw attached “eyelets”. Use only the screws. b. There is a cleat mounted on either side of the mast step. Drill a 1/8” diameter hole through the side of each cleat between the screws. c. Install the pulley on the port aft deck using parts 11, 12, and 13. Part 13 has one post. d. Drill the hole in the steering pedestal, Part 7
(illustration below. Install in the cockpit using CA. d. Drill hole for Drain Plug at bow. Tie plug to boat with string. They sink.
NOTE - The pre-formed holes in the cockpit floor for the cleat are not correctly spaced.
For an easier installation drill one new screw hole with a 1/32” drill bit.
DECK HARDWARE DETAIL
TIP OPTION
You can lower the profile of the toe rails by cutting off the feet flush with the rail bottom and gluing them in the grooves.
Drain Plug
Hole
STEERING PEDESTAL DETAIL
View is forward looking aft
11
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9
MAST CONSTRUCTION
a. Use CA glue, to adhere the fittings to the mast. b. IMPORTANT : To ensure a good bond, sand the mast under each fitting. Clean with alcohol before and after sanding. c. Position mast fittings within +/- ¼” of the specified location. d. Carefully align them as shown below. e. Apply a few drops of CA glue to the top and bottom of each fitting at the crack between the mast and fitting. f. Avoid letting glue enter the small holes in the spreaders, gooseneck and vang plate fittings.
After the fittings are installed , assemble the two halves. The steel mast joint, should fit snugly. If it doesn't spread open the mast joint by driving a tool such as nail set or large Phillips screwdriver down each end with a hammer. CA glue the joint connector into one half of the mast. Then line up spreaders and slip the other half of the mast in place. There is no need to glue the second half in place if it is snug.
5/8in. 1 13/16 in.
10 3/4 in. 10 3/4 in.
2 5/8 in. 6 5/8 in. 6 3/16 in. 8 7/16 in.
When viewed from the top the holes in the jumper spreader, jumper stay ring and upper spreader should be in a straight line with each other while the mast top should be at a 90 degree angle to this assembly as shown.
12
IMPORTANT DECISION TIME
Relative to Standing and Running Rigging
It is now time to decide if you want to be able to easily remove the entire rig and sails from the hull.
Many owners find this unnecessary. Leaving the rig permanently installed somewhat simplifies the rigging process and makes the finished product cleaner. Note that by loosening the rigging the mast can be unstepped and placed on deck even though still attached to the boat.
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Removable Rig
If you decide to make the rig removable, look for the notation “ For Removable Rig ” in the following instructions.
NOTE: There are photos at the Chesapeake Performance
Models Website that will be of assistance when rigging the boat. http://www.rcyachts.com/Builders.htm Click on the
CR 914 photo and then click on “Rigging Details Photo”.
10
BOOM CONSTRUCTION
a. Each boom uses two black Boom Rings, Part
#29. The Boom Ring at the aft end secures the clews of the jib and mainsail. The other boom ring is used to adjust sheet trim. Do not glue any of the boom rings. b. Use string for the function of the sheet boom rings. Use a square knot to form a loop in the center of a 15” string by tying it around something like a 1/4” diameter drill bit. Next with the loop on the bottom of the boom take the tails and loop them around the boom twice and tie a square not on the top of the boom. CA glue the knot and boom wraps in place. c. The highly loaded boom vang ring is also a string loop as in (b) above. Locate the loop about 4¾ inches aft of the gooseneck pivot pin. Sand the boom in this area to further improve the bond to the boom. CA glue it in place. d. Tie a 22” long string to the main boom just forward of the boom vang string loop in (c). Use a clove hitch.
CA glue it in place. e. Tie a 30” long jib tack string directly to the jib boom using a clove hitch. f. Install three end caps part 30( two for the jib boom and one for the main boom) , and the gooseneck, parts 25 and 26, using CA glue.
For Removable Rig
Tie the small end of a snap to each of the boom rings used to adjust sheets. Orient the opening of the large snap end facing downward. Tie and CA a string around the boom to hold the snap close to the boom.
7 1/4 in.
Gooseneck toggle
#26 goes between parts #25
(Do not Glue)
4 1/2 in. 2 1/2 in.
13
Headstay
Tie to boom using a clove hitch.
H e a d s ta y
Allow a long tail for tying to jib.
B o o m R in g s
P a r t 2 9
S h e e t A d j u s t e r
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S t r in g L o o p
B o o m R in g s
P a r t 2 9
J ib O u t h a u l
CLOVE HITCH
With two turns
J ib B o o m T a c k S t r in g
Tie to boom using a clove hitch
J ib B o o m
J ib S h e e t
S t r in g L o o p s
B o o m R in g s
P a r t 2 9
S h e e t A d j u s t e r
B o o m R in g s
P a r t 2 9
M a in O u th a u l
String Loop
B o o m V a n g
M a in S h e e t
M a in B o o m
Caution : Use care to avoid gluing the pivoting parts of the gooseneck when completing the gooseneck.
KNOT “B”
Double Half Hitch
Boom Vang Plate
Bowsies (or Bowsers), Part #32, are used in many places to permit easy adjustments of rigging.
14
Install the Boom Vang
Use a square knot to form a loop in the center of a 10” string by tying it around something like a 1/4” diameter drill bit.
Wrap the tails around the main boom and
CA in place. Take a 20” length of line and wrap around the main boom forward of the above loop and tie with knot B. Pass the tail
B o o m V a n g vang plate around the mast and back thru the vang plate hole. Lead the line up through two holes in a bowsie and through the string loop on the boom. Tie the end to the bowsie. See http://www.rcyachts.com/ i m a g e s / b u i l d / R i g g i n g / r i g g i n g d e t a i l s . h t m for detailed Photos
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STANDING RIGGING
NOTE - Use “Knot B” the double half hitch to tie the ends of all lines to the bowsies.
Suggestion : To make it easier to thread rigging string through small holes use CA on the string end and cut the end off at an angle with a razor or X-
ACTO knife. Alternatively, melt the end of the string with a lighter and form a fine point.
Square knot
Bowsie
Jumper Stay – Locate the mid-point of a suitable length string in the forward hole in the Mast Top , part
20. As in detail #1 above thread both ends thru a two holed bowsie fashioned from the one of the sail winch servo horn tips saved in step “#7, “INSTALL RADIO
COMPONENTS”. Route the string through the jumper tips and then through the holes in the Jumper Stay
Ring, part 21. After tensioning the jumper stays secure both strings below the ring using Clove Hitches, secure with CA glue.
Install Shrouds - Use a continuous string for each of the three shrouds (lowers, middle and uppers). Use a
Clove Hitch around the mast above each spreader and the jumper strut, part 22. Pass the ends down through the holes in the spreaders each side of the mast. Secure the clove hitch to the mast with a small bead of
CA glue. Cut the ends of the shrouds at 8” below the bottom of the mast. Cut the backstay length at 12” below the bottom of the mast. Thread a bowsie on each shroud and the backstay using the top two holes.
Install the mast in the mast step.
For Removable Rig
Install the big ends of seven snaps into the Eye plates and #4 Eyelet at the stern. Thread the ends of the shrouds and backstay through the small end of a snap and tie to the bottom hole in the bowsie.
See Detail #6 above.
For Non-removable Rig
Omit the snaps and route the shrouds directly through the Eye plates (Chainplates) and the Eyelet at the stern.
TUNING TIP:
Loosen all side shrouds, especially the lowers. Measure to the center of the top of the mast from under the bottom edge of the transom. Adjust the backstay to make that dimension 53 3/4” inches. This is a starting point for tuning the boat. Then re-tighten all shrouds and the headstay keeping this dimension constant.
15
12 SAILS
JIB HEADSTAY
Cut a 145 cm (~60”) string for the headstay.
Tie one end to the forward end of the jib boom using a clove hitch. Slide it forward to the end and apply a drop of CA glue.
Cut the enclosed tape into 10 pieces measuring 2 cm (~3/4 in.) long.
Cut the jib tube into 10 pieces measuring
1 cm (~3/8 in.) long.
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SAILS a. A corner patch reinforcement pack is included in the Upgrade Kit . Apply the thick Mylar triangles to each of the six sail corners and trim off the excess. b. Cut in half the sticky back Dacron patches shaped like half-ellipses to create quarter ellipses. c. Apply one of the quarter ellipse patches on each side of the six sail corners. Use care not to exceed the 2½-inch maximum permitted radius rule. Trim the patch on one side of the sail smaller than on the other side. This gradually decreases the stiffness from the corner of the sail outward so the sail sets properly. d. Fold circular “sticky dots” in half and apply at each of the mainsail luff holes. e. Open all holes in both sails using a heated pin or small nail. This creates a melted plastic grommet at each hole. f. Apply the four mainsail battens equally spaced within ¼ inch along the leach. Align battens with the rip-stop pattern in the sail so the battens are perpendicular to the leach. Use “sticky dots” for reinforcement at the inboard end of each batten. g. Before installing the sail is a good time to apply numbers and sail emblems. If the boat will be registered with the national CR 914 Class, do not use the sail number decals in the kit. When the boat is registered, you are issued a legal size printed sail number with instructions.
JIB a. Locate and install the luff tubes as shown above .
b. Tie the jib halyard to the head of the jib using
Knot B. Route it through the hole in the Jumper, part 22; through the bottom two holes of a bowsie; through the forward hole in the Mast Top, Part 20, and then down to the top hole of the bowsie using
Knot B. (See illustration on next page.) It is useful to position the halyard bowsie lower than the headstay bowsie to easily tell them apart. c. Tie the headstay to the extreme forward end of the jib boom using a clove hitch. d. d. Route the short tail of the hitch through the tack hole of the jib and back to a clove hitch on the boom.
(See the illustration above left.) Adjust the second clove hitch so the sail lies smoothly, not bunched up toward the headstay. See http://www.rcyachts.com/ images/build/rigging/riggingdetails.htm
e. Tie the clew of the jib to the black boom ring. f. Route the jib tack string aft through #1 Eyelet, and fasten it on cleat #2 using Knot C. (See illustration on next page.) g. Pass the headstay through all the jib luff tubes; through the hole in the Jumper, part 22; through two holes of a bowsie; through the forward hole in the Mast Top, Part 20, and then down to the bowsie using Knot B. (See illustration on next page.)
CORNER PATCH DETAIL
Trim off excess
16
SAILS
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Mast Top
Forestay
Head
Head
Jib Forestay
Jumper
1 –1.5 in.
Jib Halyard
Mainsail
MAINSAIL a. Tie the head of the sail to the forward hole in the
Mast Top, Part 20, as shown above. Head of the sail should be about ¼ inch below the Mast Top. b. Tie the mainsail downhaul string to the tack hole in the sail using knot B. Run the line down through the smaller holes in the gooseneck and vang plate, then outward to port through the hole in the cleat.
Thread a bowsie onto the line, lead the line forward through Eyelet #1 and then back to the bowsie. c. Tie the clew to the aft-most black boom ring. d. Secure the luff to the mast using a simple loop of string through each hole in the luff and around the mast and tie in a square knot . Tie the loops so there is a space of ~1/8” between the mast and the luff.
For Removable Rig
Run the mainsail downhaul string down through the holes in the gooseneck and vang plate, but fasten it on
#1 Cleat using Knot C.
Mainsail
Clew
Mainsail Downhaul
String
Main sheet fairlead
Approx. 1/4 inch diameter wire split ring
Jib Sheet
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Drain Plug
Drill hole as far forward as possible to assure complete drainage.
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Secure end of battens with “White Sticky Dots”
Boom Ring #29
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13
RUNNING RIGGING
Install the Boom Vang
(Refer to figure at bottom of page 14)
Install the Main Sheet Fairlead a. The main sheet fairlead is a spiral wound ~¼ inch metal ring. It is attached to the boat by the three-legged string bridle shown at right. b. To avoid rapid sheet wear and fouling, tie the forward leg “Sheet A” to the ring so that the string and CA glue covers the sharp wire ends. Install with a bowsie as shown. c. Attach port and starboard fairlead adjusters as pictured at right.
Install Sail Sheets a. Mark the center point of a 65-inch long string that will become the jib and main sheets. Tie a second 35-inch string at the center mark using Knot D, below . The second string is the
Control Sheet . b. Lead the Control Sheet aft through the steering wheel, around the pulley and forward into the hole as shown below. c. Remove the sail trimmer arm from the winch using the center screw on the output shaft.
Mainsheet Fairlead d. Run the control sheet into the hull through the hole located at the aft pulley assembly. e. Tilt the boat bow-down to retrieve the string through the hatch opening. Use tweezers. f. Run the string through the outboard opening of the winch arm pulley, around the pulley and aft through the inboard opening. g. With your cheek close to the fore deck, thread the string through the small hole in the cockpit wall to the #3 Cleat in the cockpit. Slightly loosen the cleat screws and run the Control Sheet under the cleat between the screws.
Both sheets pass through wheel.
Port Wheel —Aft looking forward
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Preliminary Sheet Adjustment a. Review the radio system instruction manual. b. Turn on the Tx (transmitter) and the boat. The left control stick on the Tx is for sail control. A smaller “trim lever” is located on the left side of the sail control stick. c. Confirm that the sail servo turns clockwise when the control stick is moved downwards. If the servo does not turn clockwise, reverse the direction using the “servo reverse” switch on the transmitter for channel #2 d. Move the control stick and the trim lever all the way down. Reinstall the trimmer arm on the servo. Position arm as far forward as possible at about eleven o’clock. e. Move the control stick and trim lever full up and down to check movement of the arm. f. With the stick and trim fully down, apply tension on the jib and main sheets. Position Knot D at the aft pulley by adjusting the control sheet at
#3 cleat. Tighten cleat screws and tie-off the control sheet. g. Both main and jib sheets run through the port steering wheel. h. Route the main sheet up through the ¼” metal spiral ring fairlead, aft through the string loop on
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All rights reserved. the boom and back to the boom ring used for sheet adjustment. Apply firm tension on the sheet and tie it using Knot B. i. Turn off the boat and the Tx. j. Route the jib sheet under the ¼” mainsheet fairlead ring, forward between the mast and under the main sail downhaul. Continue forward through #2 Eyelet, up through the jib boom string loop and forward to the boom ring. Tie the sheet so the aft end of the boom is about 1 ½ inch from the mast.
For Removable Rig,
Tie small loops in both sheet ends and hook them into the snaps.
Final Sheet Adjustment a. Turn on the Tx and the boat. With the sail control stick and trim fully down, tighten the main sheet by sliding the boom ring aft. b. Readjust the jib sheet using the boom ring so that the aft end of the boom is 1½ inches from the mast. c. Apply side pressure to the main boom and position the trim lever until the boom end is over the deck edge.
That is a good setting for sailing to windward. d. Moving the control stick and trim fully up should let the boom out to touch the shrouds. e. Turn off the boat and the Tx.
Set at 53 3/4 in.
Adjust using headstay
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14
INSTALL RUDDER AND KEEL
Make the space between rudder and hull as small as possible and still let the rudder turn. a. Install the rudder and rudder horn. Position the rudder as close to the hull as possible and still let it turn. Tighten the setscrew using the Allen wrench supplied. b. Remove the rudder horn and install a ball joint in the inner hole on the starboard side. Remove the unused port side rudder horn. Install and tighten the nut. c. File a small, narrow flat on the steel rudder shaft where it is marked by the rudder horn screw. This will retain the rudder even if the screw is not tight. e. Reinstall the rudder using Vaseline on the rudderpost. f. Install a nylon ball socket on one end of the rudder linkage rod (a 1/16 inch diameter steel rod threaded on both ends). Insert it through the hole in the steering pedestal and the hole in the aft face of the cockpit. Install a nylon ball socket on the forward end. g. Remove the arm from the rudder servo. Install the ball in a hole ~5/8 inches from the center of the servo shaft. Install and tighten the nut. h. Turn on the Tx and the boat. Channel 1, the right hand control stick, controls the rudder. Center the trim lever below the control stick i. Reinstall the arm 90 degrees to the axis of the boat as shown in the illustration for the Electronic Mounting Board .
j. Adjust the ball sockets so that the rudder is centered when the rudder trim on the Tx is centered. k. Check the installation by moving the rudder control stick full left and right. l. Use the “servo reverse” switch to set your preference of
“tiller” or “wheel” steering. m. Turn off the boat and the transmitter.
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Install the keel
Insert the keel shaft into the keel shaft pipe and fasten with the nut.
Use Vaseline on keel rod to prevent corrosion.
GO SAILING!
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BEFORE SAILING and DEFINITIONS
BEFORE LAUNCHING
• Turn on the boat and transmitter
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• Test that both rudder and sail control are operational
• With transmitter antenna all the way retracted, test that there is control when 15 paces from the boat
• Tape all four edges of the main hatch if the wind and wave conditions put water on deck
• Fully extend the transmitter antenna
• Check that drain plug is installed
• On windy days, frequently check for water in the boat, drain if required
Wind Direction
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Weather Helm and Lee Helm
When sailing to windward (close-hauled) the boat should sail in a straight line with no rudder input from the transmitter.
If it turns upwind it is said to have “weather helm”.
If it turns downwind it is said to have “lee helm”.
When not sailing to windward the boat will usually have weather helm because the sails being further out to the side tend to steer the boat upwind.
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Starboard Tack and Port Tack
The right side of the boat (when facing forward) is the starboard side. The other side is the port side.
A boat is on starboard tack when the main boom is on the port side. It is on port tack when the boom is on the starboard side. Study the images above.
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SAILING TERMINOLOGY AND OPERATIONS
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GO SAILING!
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GLUE PACK
CONTENTS:
West System epoxy
West System - Gap filling powder additive
Cyanoacrylate glue ( Called CA or Super Glue)
USES:
West System Epoxy
West System two part epoxy is included for the keel trunk reinforcement electronic board mounting, and the keel lead to keel blade attachment.
West System - Gap Filling Power Additive
The gap filling powder is a West System Product designed to thicken epoxy
resin to any consistency. For our purposes a peanut butter like consistency is best.
Cyanoacrylate Glue
CA Glue has been included for all the plastic to plastic joints. The Brass Keel
Tube and Rudder tubes. The Compression Post and all knots can be glued with CA.
Careful !! This CA is extra thin. A CA glue tip extension has been included to aid the builder in application. To get an adequate bond between the mast and black plastic fittings extra Thin glue is needed to penetrate. Extra thin also works well securing knots. Again Please be Careful. Another application technique is to apply the glue with a gimlet (an Awl or metal pick style tool). Apply one or two drops to the tool staying well clear of the model. Hold the tool horizontally until the tip of the tool
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HULL FINISHING DETAILS
Materials Needed:
2 Sheets of 100 grit Dry type sandpaper
2 Sheets of 120 grit Dry.
1 Sheet of 180 grit Dry.
1 Sheet of 220 Grit Dry.
1 sheet of 320 wet-n-dry Sandpaper.
1 Sheet of 600 wet-n-dry.
1 Sheet of 1200 wet-n-dry.
Automobile Rubbing Compound.
Car Wax
Extra Materials needed for Option #2
1 Spray can of lacquer primer.
1 Spray can of lacquer topcoat (Color).
1 Spray can of clear Lacquer.
Body Filler ( bondo, cuz, bog or thickened epoxy).
Masking Tape
Tack Cloth
Before you begin sanding the hull, check for thin areas in the plastic. The hulls are made as thin as possible to keep them light, fast and competitive. Take your time and sand carefully. Avoid sanding to much at the point where the hull and deck join, that’s where the plastic is the thinnest. When sanding always try to use a flat, hard sanding block. Avoid palm sanding.
During the manufacturing process the bow area of the hull gets an indent on both sides. Sanding of the bow area needs special attention. Use the Sanding block and work the high spots down slowly. As you sand the bow area keep checking the hull wall thickness of the plastic by gently squeezing it.
A Beautiful white hull can be attained without the use of any paint by following the finishing steps below in options #1. A quick section on painting the hull is provided on the following page in Option #2.
Before beginning the finishing process a few building steps need to be completed.
Install the tubes for the keel and rudder. Install the wood compression post located just in front of the keel tube. It is also recommended that the backstay chain plate be installed prior to hull finishing.
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Option #1
- No Paint finish, shinny white plastic.
Start the Sanding process with the 100 Grit dry paper. This si the hardest step because all the hull imperfections need to be removed.
After the hull is roughed in begin the process of removing the sandpaper scratches. Work your way from 120 grit to 1200 grit sandpaper.
Use Rubbing Compound to hand rub the hull to a shinny gloss.
Finish the job with a coat of car wax.
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Option #2 - Painted Finish
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Start by rough sanding the hull with 100 grit sandpaper.
Fill the bow imperfections with body filler. Sand & refill.
Finish sand the hull up to the 220 Grit sandpaper.
Tape over the keel and rudder tube openings on the deck.
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Carefully paper and mask off the entire deck.
Before shooting any paint the hull should be wiped down with a damp cotton rag or tack cloth.
Spray on primer Coat #1
Fill any small pin holes in the primer with filler.
Wet sand with 320 grit wet-n-dry. Use plenty of worm water while sanding.
Spray on primer coat #2
Wet sand with 320 up to 600 grit.
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If no bare plastic shows after wet sanding, spray on color coat #1
Wet sand with 600 grit.
If after wet sanding no primer shows through, spray on clear coat.
Wet sand from 600 to 1200.
Compound and wax.
Carefully pull tape off from around the deck edge.
Sand and scrape the deck edge to achieve a crisp hull to deck line.
NOTE: Selecting the proper paint is very important. Higher quality paints that are used in the auto body industry make the finishing process easier and will give you a better end product. Check your local yellow pages for “Auto body supply”. They can set you up with all the proper tapes and sand papers that you will need to finish you model. They may also be able to set you up with high quality automotive paint in an aerosol can. In the finishing steps lacquer paint was mentioned. Lacquer paint is a good choice but in some states hard to find. Acrylics enamel is more available and just as good. The key to quality paint is its ability ti be wet sanded without gumming up the wet-n-dry sandpaper. Proper wet sanding is the key to a great finish.
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