Ford Expedition 1997 Workshop Manual

Manual Transmission

Understanding the Manual Transmission

Because of the way an internal combustion engine breathes, it can produce torque (or twisting force)

only within a narrow speed range. Most overhead valve pushrod engines must turn at about 2500

rpm to produce their peak torque. Often by 4500 rpm, they are producing so little torque that

continued increases in engine speed produce no power increases.

The torque peak on overhead camshaft engines is, generally, much higher, but much narrower.

The manual transmission and clutch are employed to vary the relationship between engine RPM and

the speed of the wheels so that adequate power can be produced under all circumstances. The clutch

allows engine torque to be applied to the transmission input shaft gradually, due to mechanical

slippage. The vehicle can, consequently, be started smoothly from a full stop.

The transmission changes the ratio between the rotating speeds of the engine and the wheels by the

use of gears. 4-speed or 5-speed transmissions are most common. The lower gears allow full engine

power to be applied to the rear wheels during acceleration at low speeds.

The clutch driveplate is a thin disc, the center of which is splined to the transmission input shaft. Both

sides of the disc are covered with a layer of material which is similar to brake lining and which is

capable of allowing slippage without roughness or excessive noise.

The clutch cover is bolted to the engine flywheel and incorporates a diaphragm spring which provides

the pressure to engage the clutch. The cover also houses the pressure plate. When the clutch pedal is

released, the driven disc is sandwiched between the pressure plate and the smooth surface of the

flywheel, thus forcing the disc to turn at the same speed as the engine crankshaft.

The transmission contains a mainshaft which passes all the way through the transmission, from the

clutch to the driveshaft. This shaft is separated at one point, so that front and rear portions can turn

at different speeds.

Power is transmitted by a countershaft in the lower gears and reverse. The gears of the countershaft

mesh with gears on the mainshaft, allowing power to be carried from one to the other. Countershaft

gears are often integral with that shaft, while several of the mainshaft gears can either rotate

independently of the shaft or be locked to it. Shifting from one gear to the next causes one of the

gears to be freed from rotating with the shaft and locks another to it. Gears are locked and unlocked

by internal dog clutches which slide between the center of the gear and the shaft. The forward gears

usually employ synchronizers; friction members which smoothly bring gear and shaft to the same

speed before the toothed dog clutches are engaged.

Shift Handle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

M5OD

Remove the shifter boot retaining screws and ...

Click to enlarge

... lift the boot (1) from the transmission opening cover

Click to enlarge

ZF

Remove the transmission opening cover retaining screws and remove the cover

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the shifter boot retaining screws and lift the boot (1) from the transmission opening

cover.

3. Remove the bolt (2) retaining the upper shift lever to the lower shift lever (3) and remove the

upper shift lever.

4. Unfasten the transmission opening cover retaining screws and remove the cover.

5. Remove the lower shift lever boot.

To install:

6. Install lower shifter boot and transmission opening cover. Tighten the cover retaining bolts.

7. Install the upper shift lever to the lower lever and install the retaining bolt. Tighten 20-29 ft. lbs.

(27-40 Nm).

8. Place the shifter boot into position and tighten the retaining screws.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

Remove the shifter boot retaining screws and slide the boot up the shift lever shaft

Click to enlarge

Remove the shift lever retaining bolts and remove the shift lever and shifter boot from

the stub shaft

Click to enlarge

Remove the shifter stub shaft from the transmission by removing the six retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the carpet or floor mats.

3. Remove the shifter boot retaining screws and slide the boot up the shift lever shaft.

4. Remove the shift lever retaining bolts.

5. Remove the shift lever and shifter boot from the stub shaft.

6. Remove the shifter stub shaft from the transmission by unfastening the six retaining bolts and

removing the stub shaft and shifter cover. Detach the electrical connector from the shifter cover

and remove the assembly.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Back-up Light Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Typical back-up lamp switch location—mounted on the transmission

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

3. Detach the connector for the back-up light switch.

4. Using a suitable size wrench or socket, remove the back-up light switch.

To install:

5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

6. Tighten the switch to 18-26 ft. lbs. (25-35 Nm) on the M5OD and 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) on ZF models.

Extension Housing Seal (in-Vehicle)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2WD Models

Removing the extension housing seal

Always replace the old seal with a new one

Using a special tool and mallet, install the new seal

The extension seal on 2WD drive vehicles is located at the rear of the transmission case.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

2. Drain the transmission of lubricant.

3. Matchmark the driveshaft to the yoke for reassembly and remove the driveshaft.

4. Remove the old seal using a seal puller or appropriate prytool.

To install:

5. Install a new seal, coated with sealing compound, using an appropriate seal installation tool.

6. Install the driveshaft, making certain to align the matchmark.

7. Fill the transmission to the level of the fill plug hole.

8. Install the plug and lower the vehicle.

4WD Models

The extension seal on 4WD drive vehicles is located at the rear of the transfer case.

Manual Transmission Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

M5OD

Remove the retaining bolt from the transmission electrical harness connector and

separate the harness

Click to enlarge

Remove the nuts retaining the transmission support insulator (mount) to the

crossmember

Click to enlarge

Remove the 2 heat shield retaining bolts

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Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove

the crossmember

Click to enlarge

Remove the nut retaining the fuel line bracket to the transmission housing

Click to enlarge

On 4.2L equipped models, remove the oil pan-to-transmission bolts

Click to enlarge

Transmission-to-engine bolt locations—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

Transmission-to-engine bolt locations—4.6L and 5.4L engines

Click to enlarge

This type of transmission is found on F-150, F-250 and Expedition models.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the retaining bolt from the transmission electrical harness connector and separate the

harness.

3. Place the transmission in NEUTRAL.

4. Remove the shift lever assembly.

5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

6. Support the vehicle with jack stands.

7. Remove the driveshaft.

8. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line from the slave cylinder using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-

70522-A, or equivalent. Cap the end of the tube and slave cylinder to prevent the entry of dirt,

moisture or other contaminants into the hydraulic clutch system.

9. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connectors. Remove 2 starter motor retaining bolts and

remove the starter motor.

10. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the transfer case assembly.

11. Disconnect heated oxygen sensor (HO

2

S) electrical harness connectors.

12. Place a suitable transmission jack under transmission and secure with a strap or chain.

13. Remove the nuts retaining the transmission support insulator (mount) to the crossmember.

14. Remove the 2 heat shield retaining bolts.

15. Remove the nuts and bolts retaining the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the

crossmember.

16. Remove the 2 nuts retaining the exhaust pipe bracket and remove the bracket.

17. Remove the nut retaining the fuel line bracket to the transmission housing.

18. Remove the exhaust system bolts and lower the exhaust for transmission removal.

19. On 4.2L equipped models, remove the oil pan-to-transmission bolts.

If the transmission is to be removed from the vehicle for an extended period, support the

rear of the engine with a safety stand and wood block, or equivalent.

20. Remove the transmission retaining bolts and bring the transmission rearward to separate the

clutch housing from the dowel pins on the rear of the cylinder block. Slowly lower the

transmission from the vehicle.

To install:

21. The extension housing seal should be replaced before installing the transmission. Remove the

extension housing seal using Removal Tool T74P-77248-A, or equivalent.

22. Lubricate the inside diameter of the oil seal and install the seal into the extension housing using

Installer Tool T61L-7657-A, or equivalent. Ensure that the extension housing seal drain hole

faces downward.

23. Install 2 dowel pins into the lower clutch housing bolt holes. The dowel pins can be made by

cutting the heads from 2 bolts but they must be long enough to be removed after the

transmission is in place.

24. Place the transmission on a suitable transmission jack and secure with a strap or chain.

25. Slowly lift the transmission into place. Ensure that the input shaft engages the clutch disc spline

and the pilot bearing in the flywheel.

26. Install the bolts retaining the clutch housing to the cylinder block. Tighten the bolts to 38 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm). To avoid galvanic corrosion, only aluminum washers can be used to attach the housing

to the engine.

27. On 4.2L equipped models, install the oil pan-to-transmission bolts. Tighten the bolts to 38 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm).

28. Place the exhaust system in position and install the retaining bolts.

29. Place the fuel line bracket in position and install the retaining nut.

30. Place the exhaust bracket in position and install the retaining nuts.

31. Install the rear crossmember and install 6 crossmember-to-frame bolts. Tighten the bolts to 39-53

ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

32. Install the 2 heat shield retaining bolts.

33. Lower the transmission ensuring the rear transmission insulator studs are properly positioned.

Install 2 retaining nuts and tighten to 64-81 ft. lbs. (87-110 Nm).

34. Remove the jack and connect the 2 heated oxygen sensors (HO

2

S).

35. Install the starter motor and tighten the attaching bolts.

36. On 4x4 vehicles, install the transfer case.

37. Install the driveshaft to the rear axle flange and tighten the bolts.

38. Remove the cap from the hydraulic clutch tube. Install the tube and fitting in the slave cylinder,

then install the clip retaining the tube and fitting to the slave cylinder.

39. Check the transmission and transfer case fluid level and fill with specified lubricate.

40. Remove the jack stands.

41. Lower the vehicle.

42. Install the shift lever and retaining bolt.

43. Place the rubber shift boot on the floor and install the retaining bolts.

44. Connect the negative battery cable.

45. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system.

46. Road test the vehicle and check for proper transmission operation.

ZF Series

This type of transmission is found on F-250HD/SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models.

1. Place the transmission in neutral.

2. Remove the shifter from the vehicle. Refer to the procedure in this section.

3. On 7.3L diesel engine equipped models only, loosen the clamp on the turbocharger wastegate

exhaust outlet.

4. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

5. Remove the starter.

6. On 7.3L diesel engine equipped models only:

1. Remove the nuts retaining the exhaust extension pipe to

the muffler assembly.

2. Remove the engine charge exhaust pipe and extension

pipe.

7. Place a drain pan under the case and drain the case through the drain plug.

8. Remove the driveshaft(s).

9. Disconnect the back-up lamp switch.

10. Remove the clutch slave cylinder.

11. On 4 wheel drive models, remove the skid plate from under the transfer case.

12. On 4-wheel drive models, remove the transfer case.

13. Remove the transmission rear insulator and lower retainer.

14. Unbolt and remove the crossmember.

15. On the 6-speed ZF transmission, disconnect the transmission cooling tubes

16. Remove the transmission-to-engine block bolts.

17. Roll the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears, lower the jack and remove the

transmission.

To install:

18. Install 2 guide studs into the lower bolt holes.

19. Raise the transmission until the input shaft splines are aligned with the clutch disc splines. The

clutch release bearing and hub must be properly positioned in the release lever fork.

20. Roll the transmission forward and into position on the front case.

21. Install the bolts and torque them to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm). Remove the guide studs and install

and tighten the 2 remaining bolts.

22. On the 6-speed ZF transmission, connect the transmission cooling tubes

23. Install the crossmember and torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).

24. Install the transmission rear insulator and lower retainer. Tighten the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).

25. On 4-wheel drive models, install the transfer case and skid plate.

26. Install the slave cylinder.

27. Connect the back-up lamp switch.

28. Install the driveshaft(s).

29. Remove the transmission jack.

30. On 7.3L diesel engine equipped models only install the exhaust extension pipe to the muffler

assembly.

31. Install the starter.

32. Fill the transmission.

33. Lower the vehicle.

34. Install the shifter.

35. On 7.3L diesel engine equipped models only, tighten the clamp on the turbocharger wastegate

exhaust outlet.

36. Connect the negative battery cable.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Clutch

Understanding the Clutch

The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the transmission. A vehicle at

rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does

not develop a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without

any load until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. To a point, torque increases with

engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine

from the transmission, relieving the engine of any load or resistance.

The transfer of engine power to the transmission (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it weren't,

drive line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible

by gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link

between the engine and transmission. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact

each other (the clutch is engaged) physically joining the engine and transmission. When the pedal is

pushed in, the disc and plate separate (the clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the

transmission.

Most clutch assemblies consists of the flywheel, the clutch disc, the clutch pressure plate, the throw

out bearing and fork, the actuating linkage and the pedal. The flywheel and clutch pressure plate

(driving members) are connected to the engine crankshaft and rotate with it. The clutch disc is

located between the flywheel and pressure plate, and is splined to the transmission shaft. A driving

member is one that is attached to the engine and transfers engine power to a driven member (clutch

disc) on the transmission shaft. A driving member (pressure plate) rotates (drives) a driven member

(clutch disc) on contact and, in so doing, turns the transmission shaft.

There is a circular diaphragm spring within the pressure plate cover (transmission side). In a relaxed

state (when the clutch pedal is fully released) this spring is convex; that is, it is dished outward

toward the transmission. Pushing in the clutch pedal actuates the attached linkage. Connected to the

other end of this is the throw out fork, which hold the throw out bearing. When the clutch pedal is

depressed, the clutch linkage pushes the fork and bearing forward to contact the diaphragm spring of

the pressure plate. The outer edges of the spring are secured to the pressure plate and are pivoted

on rings so that when the center of the spring is compressed by the throw out bearing, the outer

edges bow outward and, by so doing, pull the pressure plate in the same direction - away from the

clutch disc. This action separates the disc from the plate, disengaging the clutch and allowing the

transmission to be shifted into another gear. A coil type clutch return spring attached to the clutch

pedal arm permits full release of the pedal. Releasing the pedal pulls the throw out bearing away

from the diaphragm spring resulting in a reversal of spring position. As bearing pressure is gradually

released from the spring center, the outer edges of the spring bow outward, pushing the pressure

plate into closer contact with the clutch disc. As the disc and plate move closer together, friction

between the two increases and slippage is reduced until, when full spring pressure is applied (by fully

releasing the pedal) the speed of the disc and plate are the same. This stops all slipping, creating a

direct connection between the plate and disc which results in the transfer of power from the engine to

the transmission. The clutch disc is now rotating with the pressure plate at engine speed and,

because it is splined to the transmission shaft, the shaft now turns at the same engine speed.

The clutch is operating properly if:

1. It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary.

2. The shift lever can be moved freely between 1st and reverse gears when the vehicle is stationary

and the clutch disengaged.

Driven Disc and Pressure Plate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...

... then carefully remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel

Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat

If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts ...

... then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order to replace it or have it

machined

Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a threadlocking compound to the

flywheel bolts

Check the pressure plate for excessive wear

Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch

Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transmission's input shaft

Use the clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc during assembly

The pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align

You may want to use a threadlocking compound on the clutch assembly bolts

Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the transmission.

3. If the clutch and pressure plate are going to be reused, mark the pressure plate and cover

assembly and the flywheel so that they can be reinstalled in the same relative position.

4. Loosen the pressure plate and cover attaching bolts evenly in a staggered sequence a turn at

time until the pressure plate springs are relieved of their tension. Remove the attaching bolts.

5. Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc from the flywheel.

6. Remove the pilot bearing in the crankshaft by removing using a suitable puller.

To install:

The self-adjusting pressure plate on the F-150, F-250 and Expedition models should always

be adjusted before installation.

7. Before installing the self-adjusting pressure plate, adjust as follows:

1. Place the flywheel and pressure plate in a suitable press.

2. Using a suitable adapter, press down on the clutch

diaphragm fingers until the adjusting ring moves freely.

3. Rotate the adjusting ring counterclockwise until the tension

springs are compressed.

4. Hold the adjusting ring while releasing the pressure on the

clutch fingers.

8. Inspect the flywheel for wear, damage and flatness. Replace or resurface as necessary.

9. Install a new pilot bearing into the crankshaft using a suitable pilot bearing installer.

10. Position the clutch disc on the flywheel so that an aligning tool or spare transmission mainshaft

can enter the clutch pilot bearing and align the disc.

11. When reinstalling the original pressure plate and cover assembly, align the assembly and

flywheel according to the marks made during removal. Position the pressure plate and cover

assembly on the flywheel, align the pressure plate and disc, and install the retaining bolts.

Tighten the bolts in an alternating sequence a few turns at a time until the proper torque is

reached:

35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm) on the 4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L engines (except Super Duty models)

30-36 ft. lbs. (41-49 Nm) on the 5.4L and 6.8L engines on Super Duty models

22-30 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm) on the 5.8L engine

19-26 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm) on the 7.3L diesel engine

14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm) on the 7.5L engine

12. Remove the tool used to align the clutch disc.

13. Install the transmission.

14. Install the slave cylinder and bleed the system.

ADJUSTMENTS

Because the clutch system is hydraulic, the clutch pedal free-play is self-adjusting and requires no

additional maintenance.

Master Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Clutch master cylinder assembly—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Prior to any service on models with the externally mounted slave

cylinder, that requires removal of the slave cylinder, such as

transmission and/or clutch housing removal, the clutch master

cylinder pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. Failure

to do this may damage the slave cylinder if the clutch pedal is

depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal by prying the retainer

bushing and pushrod off the pedal pin.

3. Detach the connector for the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch.

4. Remove the retaining nuts and the support bracket retaining the clutch master cylinder reservoir

and reservoir to the bulkhead.

5. Thoroughly clean the area around the hydraulic tube and disconnect it from the master cylinder.

6. Remove the clutch master cylinder from the firewall carefully. It will be necessary to rotate the

master cylinder 105 degrees counterclockwise to allow the CPP switch to clear the dash panel.

To install:

7. Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Make sure it is located on the

correct side of the clutch pedal. Install the master cylinder and tighten the nuts.

8. Install the hydraulic tube to the master cylinder.

9. Attach the CPP switch connector.

10. Replace the retainer bushing in the clutch master cylinder pushrod if worn or damaged. Install

the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin. Make sure the flange of the bushing is against

the pedal blade. Install the switch.

11. Connect the negative battery cable and bleed the clutch hydraulic system, if necessary.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Remove the pushpins from the clutch master cylinder assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal by prying the retainer

bushing and pushrod off the clutch pedal pin.

3. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, detach the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch electrical

harness connector.

4. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, remove the CPP switch from the clutch master

cylinder pushrod.

5. Remove 2 push pins retaining the clutch master cylinder reservoir to the cowl panel.

6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

7. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, disconnect the clutch hydraulic line from the transmission

using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70552-A, or equivalent.

8. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, twist and unlock the slave cylinder from the

transmission.

9. Lower the vehicle.

10. Rotate the clutch master cylinder 45 degrees clockwise and remove the clutch master cylinder

and reservoir.

To install:

11. If replacing the clutch master cylinder, it must be bench bled before it is installed.

12. Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Place the clutch master cylinder

in position and rotate the body 45 degrees counterclockwise while pushing inward.

13. Place the clutch master cylinder reservoir on the cowl panel and secure with 2 push pins.

14. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, connect the clutch hydraulic line to the transmission.

15. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, install the slave cylinder onto the transmission.

16. Lower the vehicle.

17. On the F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, install the CPP switch to the clutch pedal

pushrod. Ensure that the CPP switch is properly positioned on the pushrod.

18. On the F-150, F-250 and Expedition, attach the CPP switch electrical harness connector.

19. Install the retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin with the flange portion of the bushing

facing away from the pedal blade of the clutch pedal.

20. Connect the negative battery cable.

21. Verify the starter motor will only crank the engine when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

22. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system and check for leaks.

23. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch system for proper operation.

BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE

It is recommended to bench bleed a dry clutch master cylinder before installation.

1. Start with the tube and reservoir attached to the clutch master cylinder, but the system removed

from the vehicle. Lightly clamp the reservoir in a vise.

2. Hold the clutch master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on

the body.

3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the clutch master cylinder and make sure the quick connect

on the clutch line is below the clutch master cylinder.

4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to

open the valve.

5. Stroke and fully depress and hold the push rod.

6. Release the internal mechanism of the quick end connector and release the push rod.

7. Fill the reservoir and repeat the above steps 4 more times.

8. With the clutch master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends

high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, push the push rod into the body several times

quickly to expel any remaining air.

Slave Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Internally Mounted Slave Cylinder

Clutch hydraulic line removal

Click to enlarge

Concentric slave cylinder removal

Click to enlarge

Clutch release bearing removal with the concentric slave cylinder

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Prior to any service on models with the externally mounted slave

cylinder, that requires removal of the slave cylinder, such as

transmission and/or clutch housing removal, the clutch master

cylinder pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. Failure

to do this may damage the slave cylinder if the clutch pedal is

depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission, using Clutch Coupling Remover T88T-70522-A, or

equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on

the tube.

4. Remove the transmission assembly.

5. Remove 2 slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.

6. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.

To install:

7. Install the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screw and coupling

facing the left-hand side of the transmission.

8. Install 2 slave cylinder retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 13-19 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm).

9. Install the transmission assembly.

10. Connect the clutch tube to the slave cylinder.

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system.

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Road test the vehicle and check for proper transmission operation.

Externally Mounted Slave Cylinder

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

3. Thoroughly clean the area around the hydraulic tube before disconnecting the tube.

4. Remove the retaining pin from the slave cylinder hydraulic line.

5. Remove the retaining clip from the slave cylinder.

6. Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

8. Replace the hydraulic line retaining pin.

9. Bleed the system.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING

Externally Mounted Slave Cylinder

Bleeding the external slave cylinder

Click to enlarge

1. Clean the reservoir cap and the slave cylinder connection.

2. Remove the slave cylinder from the housing.

3. Using a

3

/

32

in. punch, drive out the pin that holds the tube in place.

4. Remove the tube from the slave cylinder and place the end of the tube in a container.

5. Hold the slave cylinder so the connector port is at the highest point, by tipping it about 30

degrees from horizontal. Fill the cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid through the port. It may be

necessary to rock the cylinder or slightly depress the pushrod to expel all the air.

WARNING

Pushing too hard on the pushrod will spurt fluid from the port!

6. When all air is expelled—no more bubble are seen—install the slave cylinder.

Some fluid will be expelled during installation as the pushrod is depressed.

7. Remove the reservoir cap. Some fluid will run out of the tube end into the container. Pour fluid

into the reservoir until a steady stream of fluid runs out of the tube and the reservoir is filled.

Quickly install the diaphragm and cap. The flow should stop.

8. Connect the tube and install the pin. Check the fluid level.

9. Check the clutch operation.

Internally Mounted Slave Cylinder

Bleeding the concentric slave cylinder

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the clutch pipe from the transmission using Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A or

equivalent, by sliding the clutch white plastic sleeve toward the clutch release cylinder while

applying a slight tug on the clutch pipe.

2. Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.

3. Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the step with clean DOT 3 or equivalent

brake fluid from a closed container.

4. Using a small flat bladed tool, depress the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the

valve. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and

hold.

5. Remove the flat bladed tool from the coupling, closing the valve.

6. Release the clutch pedal.

7. Refill the reservoir to the step.

The reservoir must be kept full at all times to ensure that there will be no additional

introduction of air into the system.

8. Repeat the above steps.

9. Install the reservoir cap. Reconnect the clutch pipe to the clutch release cylinder. Check that the

connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.

10. Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for 5 to 10 strokes.

11. Wait 1 to 3 minutes.

12. Repeat the stroking procedure at least 3 more times.

13. Loosen the bleed screw (located in the clutch slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection).

14. Depress and hold the clutch pedal while tightening the bleed screw.

15. Refill the reservoir to the step.

16. Check the operation of the clutch system.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Automatic Transmission

Understanding the Automatic Transmission

The automatic transmission allows engine torque and power to be transmitted to the rear wheels

within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow the engine to turn fast enough to

produce plenty of power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it at a sensible rpm at high

vehicle speeds (and it does this job without driver assistance). The transmission uses a light fluid as

the medium for the transmission of power. This fluid also works in the operation of various hydraulic

control circuits and as a lubricant. Because the transmission fluid performs all of these functions,

trouble within the unit can easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the

complexity and unusual operating principles of the transmission, a very sound understanding of the

basic principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting.

TORQUE CONVERTER

The torque converter replaces the conventional clutch. It has three functions:

1. It allows the engine to idle with the vehicle at a standstill, even with the transmission in gear.

2. It allows the transmission to shift from range-to-range smoothly, without requiring that the driver

close the throttle during the shift.

3. It multiplies engine torque to an increasing extent as vehicle speed drops and throttle opening is

increased. This has the effect of making the transmission more responsive and reduces the

amount of shifting required.

The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that has been flattened on opposite

sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the engine's crankshaft. Generally, the entire metal case rotates

at engine speed and serves as the engine's flywheel.

The case contains three sets of blades. One set is attached directly to the case. This set forms the

torus or pump. Another set is directly connected to the output shaft, and forms the turbine. The third

set is mounted on a hub which, in turn, is mounted on a stationary shaft through a one-way clutch.

This third set is known as the stator.

A pump, which is driven by the converter hub at engine speed, keeps the torque converter full of

transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows continuously through the unit to provide cooling.

Under low speed acceleration, the torque converter functions as follows:

The torque converter housing is rotated by the engine's crankshaft, and turns the

impeller. The impeller then spins the turbine, which gives motion to the turbine shaft,

driving the gears

Click to enlarge

The torus is turning faster than the turbine. It picks up fluid at the center of the converter and,

through centrifugal force, slings it outward. Since the outer edge of the converter moves faster than

the portions at the center, the fluid picks up speed.

The fluid then enters the outer edge of the turbine blades. It then travels back toward the center of

the converter case along the turbine blades. In impinging upon the turbine blades, the fluid loses the

energy picked up in the torus.

If the fluid was now returned directly into the torus, both halves of the converter would have to turn

at approximately the same speed at all times, and torque input and output would both be the same.

In flowing through the torus and turbine, the fluid picks up two types of flow, or flow in two separate

directions. It flows through the turbine blades, and it spins with the engine. The stator, whose blades

are stationary when the vehicle is being accelerated at low speeds, converts one type of flow into

another. Instead of allowing the fluid to flow straight back into the torus, the stator's curved blades

turn the fluid almost 90° toward the direction of rotation of the engine. Thus the fluid does not flow

as fast toward the torus, but is already spinning when the torus picks it up. This has the effect of

allowing the torus to turn much faster than the turbine. This difference in speed may be compared to

the difference in speed between the smaller and larger gears in any gear train. The result is that

engine power output is higher, and engine torque is multiplied.

As the speed of the turbine increases, the fluid spins faster and faster in the direction of engine

rotation. As a result, the ability of the stator to redirect the fluid flow is reduced. Under cruising

conditions, the stator is eventually forced to rotate on its one-way clutch in the direction of engine

rotation. Under these conditions, the torque converter begins to behave almost like a solid shaft, with

the torus and turbine speeds being almost equal.

PLANETARY GEARBOX

The ability of the torque converter to multiply engine torque is limited. Also, the unit tends to be more

efficient when the turbine is rotating at relatively high speeds. Therefore, a planetary gearbox is used

to carry the power output of the turbine to the driveshaft.

Planetary gears work in a similar fashion to manual transmission gears, but are

composed of three parts

Click to enlarge

Planetary gears function very similarly to conventional transmission gears. However, their

construction is different in that three elements make up one gear system, and, in that all three

elements are different from one another. The three elements are: an outer gear that is shaped like a

hoop, with teeth cut into the inner surface; a sun gear, mounted on a shaft and located at the very

center of the outer gear; and a set of three planet gears, held by pins in a ring-like planet carrier,

meshing with both the sun gear and the outer gear. Either the outer gear or the sun gear may be

held stationary, providing more than one possible torque multiplication factor for each set of gears.

Also, if all three gears are forced to rotate at the same speed, the gearset forms, in effect, a solid

shaft.

Planetary gears in the maximum reduction (low) range. The ring gear is held and a lower

gear ratio is obtained

Click to enlarge

Planetary gears in the minimum reduction (drive) range. The ring gear is allowed to

revolve, providing a higher gear ratio

Click to enlarge

Most automatics use the planetary gears to provide various reductions ratios. Bands and clutches are

used to hold various portions of the gearsets to the transmission case or to the shaft on which they

are mounted. Shifting is accomplished, then, by changing the portion of each planetary gearset which

is held to the transmission case or to the shaft.

SERVOS AND ACCUMULATORS

The servos are hydraulic pistons and cylinders. They resemble the hydraulic actuators used on many

other machines, such as bulldozers. Hydraulic fluid enters the cylinder, under pressure, and forces

the piston to move to engage the band or clutches.

Servos, operated by pressure, are used to apply or release the bands, to either hold the

ring gear or allow it to rotate

Click to enlarge

The accumulators are used to cushion the engagement of the servos. The transmission fluid must pass

through the accumulator on the way to the servo. The accumulator housing contains a thin piston

which is sprung away from the discharge passage of the accumulator. When fluid passes through the

accumulator on the way to the servo, it must move the piston against spring pressure, and this action

smoothes out the action of the servo.

HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM

The hydraulic pressure used to operate the servos comes from the main transmission oil pump. This

fluid is channeled to the various servos through the shift valves. There is generally a manual shift

valve which is operated by the transmission selector lever and an automatic shift valve for each

automatic upshift the transmission provides.

Many new transmissions are electronically controlled. On these models, electrical solenoids

are used to better control the hydraulic fluid. Usually, the solenoids are regulated by an

electronic control module.

There are two pressures which affect the operation of these valves. One is the governor pressure

which is effected by vehicle speed. The other is the modulator pressure which is effected by intake

manifold vacuum or throttle position. Governor pressure rises with an increase in vehicle speed, and

modulator pressure rises as the throttle is opened wider. By responding to these two pressures, the

shift valves cause the upshift points to be delayed with increased throttle opening to make the best

use of the engine's power output.

Most transmissions also make use of an auxiliary circuit for downshifting. This circuit may be actuated

by the throttle linkage the vacuum line which actuates the modulator, by a cable or by a solenoid. It

applies pressure to a special downshift surface on the shift valve or valves.

The transmission modulator also governs the line pressure, used to actuate the servos. In this way,

the clutches and bands will be actuated with a force matching the torque output of the engine.

Fluid Pan

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Refer to Section 1 for transmission pan removal and filter service.

Manual Lever Position (MLP) Sensor/Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Unfasten the nut for the manual control lever and ...

... remove the lever from the sensor

Detach the connector from the TR sensor

Unfasten the retaining bolts and ...

... remove the sensor from the transmission

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jackstands.

3. Place the transmission in Neutral.

4. Remove and discard the manual control lever nut, then remove the lever from the transmission.

5. Detach the TR sensor electrical harness connector, remove the TR sensor retaining bolts, then

pull the TR sensor off of the transmission case.

To install:

6. Position the TR sensor against the transmission case and loosely install the 2 retaining screws.

7. Attach the TR sensor electrical harness connector.

8. Use an alignment tool, such as the TR Sensor Alignment Tool T93P-70010-A, to align the TR

sensor slots.

9. Tighten the TR sensor bolts to 80-100 inch lbs. (9-11 Nm).

10. Position the manual control lever onto the TR sensor, then install the new lever nut to 22-26 ft.

lbs. (30-35 Nm).

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

ADJUSTMENT

Adjusting the MLP sensor

Click to enlarge

Park is the last detent when the manual control lever is full forward. Return 2 detents

toward the output shaft for Neutral.

1. Position the manual control lever in Neutral.

2. Raise the and safely support the vehicle.

3. Loosen the sensor retaining bolts.

4. Insert Gear Position Sensor Adjuster tool T93P-700 10-A or equivalent, into the slots.

5. Align all 3 slots on the MLP sensor with 3 tabs on the tool.

6. Tighten the attaching screws to 80-100 inch lbs. (9-11 Nm).

7. Lower the vehicle.

Extension Housing Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2WD Models

The extension housing seal is located at the rear of the transmission case.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

2. Drain the transmission of lubricant.

3. Matchmark the driveshaft to the yoke for reassembly and remove the driveshaft.

4. Remove the old seal using a seal puller or appropriate prytool.

To install:

5. Install a new seal, coated with sealing compound, using an appropriate seal installation tool.

6. Install the driveshaft, making certain to align the matchmark.

7. Lower the vehicle.

8. Fill the transmission with the proper fluid.

4WD Models

The extension housing seal on 4WD drive vehicles is located at the rear of the transfer case. Refer to

the Rear Output Shaft Seal procedure in the Transfer Case portion of this section.

Automatic Transmission Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4R70W

On 4.6L engine equipped models, remove the rubber access plug to ...

Click to enlarge

... access and remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts

Click to enlarge

Disconnect the shift linkage

Click to enlarge

Disconnect each fluid cooler line from the fittings on the transmission

Click to enlarge

Detach the harness connectors from the transmission

Click to enlarge

Detach the solenoid body connector

Click to enlarge

Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt

Click to enlarge

Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder and remove

the dipstick from the transmission

Click to enlarge

1. Place the shift lever in the NEUTRAL position.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Raise the vehicle on hoist or stands.

4. If transmission disassembly is required, drain the fluid.

5. On 4 X 4 vehicles, remove the transfer case. Refer to the procedure in this section.

6. Matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the

transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.

7. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts

and remove the starter motor.

8. On 4.2L engine equipped models only, remove the transmission inspection cover.

9. On 4.6L engine equipped models only, remove the rubber access plug.

10. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley

attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.

11. Disconnect the shift linkage.

12. Disconnect each fluid cooler line from the fittings on the transmission.

13. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley

attaching bolt, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug.

After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.

14. Detach the harness connectors at both the Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor, the Transmission

Range (TR) sensor and the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

15. Detach the solenoid body connector.

16. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.

17. Remove the transmission crossmember.

18. Remove the exhaust Y-pipe.

19. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

20. Remove the bolt that secure the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder head. Lift the filler

tube and the dipstick from the transmission.

21. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.

22. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.

23. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same

time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.

To install:

24. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully

engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.

25. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission

to the jack with a chain.

Align the orange balancing marks on the converter stud and flywheel bolt hole if balancing

marks are present.

26. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel.

Before torque converter is bolted to the flywheel, a check should be made to ensure that

the torque converter is properly seated. The torque converter should move freely with

respect to the flywheel. Grasp the torque converter stud. Movement back and forth should

result in a metallic clank noise if the converter is properly seated. If the torque converter

will not move, the transmission must be removed and the torque converter re-position so

that the impeller hub is properly engage in the pump gear.

27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage

the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This

indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.

28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 30-41 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).

29. Install the fuel line bracket and tighten the retaining bolt.

30. Install the exhaust Y-pipe.

31. Install the transmission crossmember.

32. Remove the jack from under the transmission.

33. Install a new O-ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the

transmission case and secure the tube to RH cylinder head with the retaining bolt.

34. Attach the solenoid body connector.

35. Attach the connectors for the OSS, TR sensor and the VSS.

36. Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of transmission case.

37. Connect the transmission shift linkage.

38. Tighten the torque converter nuts and tighten the nuts to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).

39. On the 4.6L engine, install the rubber access plug.

40. On the 4.2L engine, install the transmission inspection cover.

41. Install the starter motor.

42. Position the drive shaft yoke inside the extension housing.

43. Install the driveshaft.

44. On 4 X 4 models, install the transfer case. Refer to the procedure as outlined in this section.

45. Lower the vehicle.

46. Connect the negative battery cable.

47. Fill the transmission with approved transmission fluid. Road test the vehicle.

E4OD/4R100

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the fittings on the transmission

Click to enlarge

Detach the manual lever position sensor connector

Click to enlarge

Detach the solenoid body connector

Click to enlarge

Detach the turbine shaft and output shaft speed sensors

Click to enlarge

Remove the flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts—gasoline engines

Click to enlarge

Remove the flywheel inspection cover retaining bolts—diesel engines

Click to enlarge

Remove the flywheel retaining nuts

Click to enlarge

Lower the transmission from the vehicle using a suitable jack

Click to enlarge

Install Torque Converter Handles T81P-7902-C, or equivalent, at the 12 o'clock and 6

o'clock positions

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

3. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working

toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally, remove all of the

pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained,

install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.

4. Remove the dipstick from the transmission.

5. On 4WD drive models, matchmark and remove the front driveshaft.

6. Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing

to prevent fluid leakage.

7. Disconnect the linkage from the transmission.

8. On 4WD drive models, disconnect the transfer case linkage.

9. Remove the heat shield and remove the manual lever position sensor connector by squeezing the

tabs and pulling on the connector. NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY THE CONNECTOR APART!

10. Remove the solenoid body heat shield.

11. Remove the solenoid body connector by pushing on the center tab and pulling on the wiring

harness. NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY APART THE CONNECTOR!

12. On 4WD drive models, remove the 4x 4 switch connector from the transfer case. Be careful not to

over-extend the tabs.

13. Pry the harness connector from the extension housing wire bracket.

14. On 4WD drive models, remove the wiring harness locators from the left side of the connector.

15. On 4WD drive models, remove the transfer case.

16. Detach the turbine shaft and output shaft speed sensors.

17. Remove the converter cover bolts.

18. Remove the rear engine cover plate bolts.

19. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts

and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.

20. Remove the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley

attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.

21. Secure the transmission to a transmission jack. Use a safety chain.

22. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching nuts and the two crossmember-to-frame

attaching bolts.

23. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission. Cap the lines.

24. Remove the 6 converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.

25. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same

time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.

26. Remove the transmission filler tube.

27. On F-Super Duty, remove the transmission-mounted brake. See Section 9 .

28. Install Torque Converter Handles T81P-7902-C, or equivalent, at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock

positions.

To install:

29. Install the converter with the handles at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Push and rotate

the converter until it bottoms out. Check the seating of the converter by placing a straightedge

across the converter and bell housing. There must be a gap between the converter and

straightedge. Remove the handles.

30. On F-Super Duty, install the transmission-mounted brake. See Section 9 .

31. Install the transmission filler tube.

32. Rotate the converter to align the studs with the flywheel mounting holes.

33. Carefully raise the transmission into position at the engine. The converter must rest squarely

against the flywheel.

34. Install the 6 converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts. Snug them alternately and

evenly, then, tighten them alternately and evenly to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).

35. Install the converter drain plug cover.

36. Connect each oil line at the fittings on the transmission.

37. Install the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching nuts and the two crossmember-to-frame

attaching bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).

38. Remove the transmission jack.

39. Install the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts. Place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching

bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm).

40. Install the starter motor. Connect the cable at the terminal on the starter motor. Connect the

neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.

41. Install the rear engine cover plate bolts.

42. Install the converter cover bolts.

43. On 4WD drive models, install the transfer case.

44. Connect the speedometer cable.

45. On 4WD drive models, install the wiring harness locators at the left side of the connector.

46. Connect the harness connector at the extension housing wire bracket.

47. On 4WD drive models, install the 4x 4 switch connector at the transfer case.

48. Install the solenoid body connector. An audible click indicates connection.

49. Install the solenoid body heat shield.

50. Install the manual lever position sensor connector and the heat shield.

51. On 4WD drive models, connect the transfer case linkage.

52. Connect the linkage at the transmission.

53. Install the rear driveshaft.

54. On 4WD drive models, install the front driveshaft.

55. Install the dipstick.

56. Install the drain pan using a new gasket and sealer.

57. Lower the truck.

58. Refill the transmission and check for leaks.

59. Connect the negative battery cable.

ADJUSTMENTS

The automatic transmissions are electronically controlled, no adjustments are possible.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Transfer Case

Rear Output Shaft Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Borg-Warner 44-07 and New Venture Transfer Case

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

2. Remove the rear driveshaft.

3. Remove the yoke nut and washer.

4. Pull the yoke from the shaft.

5. Center-punch the seal and carefully pry it from its bore. Don't scratch the bore!

To install:

6. Clean the bore thoroughly.

7. Coat the OD of the new seal with sealer and the ID with clean Dexron®II ATF.

8. Position the seal squarely in the bore and drive it into place with a seal driver, or similar tool.

Don't hammer directly on the seal.

9. Install the washer and yoke. Coat the threads of the shaft with a threadlocking compound. Install

the nut and torque it to 150-180 ft. lbs. (203-244 Nm) on the Borg-Warner 44-07 and 186 ft. lbs.

(251 Nm) for the New Venture.

10. Install the driveshaft.

11. Lower the vehicle.

Borg-Warner 13-56, 44-06 and All Wheel Drive Transfer Case on the Expedition and Navigator

The rear output shaft seal is accessible after the driveshaft is removed

Click to enlarge

Install the rear output shaft seal using a suitable seal driver

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear axle and slide it from the transfer case.

3. Center-punch the seal and carefully pry it from its bore. Don't scratch the bore!

4. Remove and discard the bushing from the retainer.

To install:

5. Drive a new bushing into place with a seal driver or equivalent tool

6. Position the seal in the retainer so the notch on the seal faces upwards and the drain hole in the

rubber boot is downwards. Drive it into place with a seal driver, or similar tool. Don't hammer

directly on the seal.

7. Install the driveshaft.

8. Lower the vehicle.

Front Output Shaft Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

New Venture Transfer Case (1999-00 Super Duty Models)

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the driveshaft at the yoke.

3. Remove the yoke nut and washer.

4. Pull the yoke from the shaft.

5. Center-punch the seal and carefully pry it from its bore. Don't scratch the bore!

To install:

6. Clean the bore thoroughly.

7. Coat the OD of the new seal with sealer and the ID with clean Dexron®II ATF.

8. Position the seal squarely in the bore and drive it into place with a seal driver, or similar tool.

Don't hammer directly on the seal.

9. Install the washer and yoke. Coat the threads of the shaft with a threadlocking compound. Install

the nut and torque it to 165 ft. lbs. (223 Nm).

10. Install the driveshaft.

11. Lower the vehicle.

Except New Venture Transfer Case

Ford's procedure states that the front output shaft seal is replaceable only on disassembly/overhaul of

the transfer case assembly.

Transfer Case Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Borg-Warner Model 13-56

Borg-Warner 13-56 manual shift transfer case installation

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

2. Drain the fluid from the transfer case.

3. Disconnect the 4WD indicator switch wire connector at the transfer case.

4. Remove the skid plate from the frame, if equipped.

5. Matchmark and disconnect the front driveshaft from the front output yoke.

6. Matchmark and disconnect the rear driveshaft from the rear output shaft yoke.

7. Remove the retaining rings and shift rod from the transfer case shift lever.

8. Disconnect the vent hose from the transfer case.

9. Support the transfer case with a transmission jack.

10. Remove the bolts retaining the transfer case to the extension housing.

11. Lower the transfer case from the vehicle.

To install:

12. When installing place a new gasket between the transfer case and the adapter.

13. Raise the transfer case with the transmission jack so the transmission output shaft aligns with

the splined transfer case input shaft.

14. Install the bolts retaining the transfer case to the adapter. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 30-40

ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm).

15. Remove the transmission jack from the transfer case.

16. Connect the rear driveshaft to the rear output shaft yoke.

17. Connect the vent hose to the transfer case.

18. Install the shift lever to the transfer case and install the retaining nut.

19. Connect the 4WD indicator switch wire connector at the transfer case.

20. Connect the front driveshaft to the front output yoke.

21. Install the skid plate to the frame.

22. Install the drain plug.

23. Remove the filler plug and install the proper type and amount of fluid.

24. Lower the vehicle.

Borg-Warner 44-06 and All Wheel Drive Transfer Case on the Expedition and Navigator

On manual shift vehicles, use Shift Linkage Insulator Tool T67P-7341-A, or equivalent, to

disconnect the shift rod

Click to enlarge

Detach the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) electrical connector

Click to enlarge

On manual shift vehicles, detach the 4WD indicator switch

Click to enlarge

On electric shift vehicles, detach the electric shift motor wiring harness connector

Click to enlarge

Remove the 6 transfer case-to-transmission bolts (3 on each side)

Click to enlarge

1. If equipped with air suspension, deactivate the system.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

4. Mark the rear driveshaft and flange and remove 4 retaining bolts. Remove the driveshaft.

5. Remove 2 front driveshaft shield bolts and remove the shield.

6. Remove the No. 3 and 4 crossmembers.

7. Mark the front driveshaft and flange and remove 4 retaining bolts. Disconnect the driveshaft from

the transfer case and secure out of way.

8. Install Torsion Bar Tool T95T-5310-A with Adapter Plates T96T-5310-A, or equivalents.

9. Tighten the tool until it touches the torsion bar adjuster.

10. Remove the adjuster bolt and nut.

11. Remove the tool and the adjuster.

12. Repeat the procedure for the opposite side.

13. Remove 6 torsion bar crossmember support bolts and remove the support.

14. Remove the torsion bars.

15. Remove 4 transfer case skid plate bolts and remove the skid plate.

16. Detach the Vehicle Speed Sensor electrical harness connector.

17. Detach the electric shift motor electrical harness connector.

18. Support the transfer case with a suitable transmission jack. Remove 6 bolts retaining the transfer

case to the transmission and extension housing.

19. Slide the transfer case rearward off the transmission output shaft and lower the transfer case

from the vehicle. Remove the gasket from between the transfer case and the extension housing.

To install:

20. Clean the transfer case and transmission extension housing gasket sealing surfaces.

21. Install a new gasket on the front mounting face of the transfer case assembly.

22. Raise the transfer case with the transmission jack so the transmission output shaft aligns with

the transfer case input shaft. Slide the transfer case forward onto the transmission output shaft

and dowel pin. Install 6 retaining bolts and tighten, in sequence, to 29-40 ft. lbs. (40-54 Nm).

23. Remove the transmission jack.

24. Connect the VSS and electric shift motor electrical harness connectors.

25. Place the slid plate in position and install 4 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10-13 ft. lbs. (13-

17 Nm).

26. Install the torsion bars and rear torsion bar support.

27. Place the front driveshaft to the transfer case noting the index marks made during removal.

Tighten the retaining bolts.

28. Place the front driveshaft shield in position and tighten the 3 retaining bolts.

29. Install the rear driveshaft noting the index marks made during removal.

30. Install the No. 3 and 4 crossmembers.

31. If drained, fill the transfer case with the proper type and amount of lubricant.

32. Lower the vehicle.

33. Connect the negative battery cable.

34. Road test the vehicle and verify proper 4WD engagement and operation.

35. If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system.

Borg-Warner 44-07 and New Venture Transfer Case

On manual shift vehicles, disconnect the shift linkage

Click to enlarge

On manual shift vehicles, detach the 3-position switch harness connector

Click to enlarge

On electric shift vehicles, detach the electric shift motor wiring harness connector

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

3. Drain the transfer case fluid into a large pan or container; dispose of the used fluid.

4. Remove the front and rear driveshafts from the transfer case.

5. On manual shift vehicles, disconnect the shift linkage.

6. On manual shift vehicles, detach the 3-position switch harness connector.

7. On electric shift vehicles, detach the electric shift motor wiring harness connector.

8. Support the transfer case with a hydraulic floor transmission jack, or equivalent. Secure the

transfer case to the jack with a safety strap.

9. Remove the 6 transfer case-to-transmission bolts (3 on each side).

10. Lower the transfer case out of the vehicle.

To install:

11. Raise the transfer case into position with the transmission jack.

12. Install the 6 transfer case-to-transmission bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Remove the transfer caseto-transmission jack securing strap.

13. Remove the jack from under the transfer case.

14. On electric shift models, attach the electric shift motor wiring harness connector.

15. On manual shift vehicles, attach the 3 position switch harness connector.

16. On manual shift vehicles, connect the shift linkage.

17. Install the driveshafts.

18. Fill the transfer case using Motorcraft MERCON Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-

2-QDX or DDX, or equivalent fluid.

19. Lower the vehicle.

20. Connect the negative battery cable.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Driveline

Front Driveshaft and U-Joints

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front driveshaft exploded view

Click to enlarge

The following procedure applies only to 4 x 4 vehicles.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. If equipped, remove 3 front driveshaft shield retaining nuts and remove the driveshaft shield.

3. Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and axle pinion flange.

4. Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and transfer case flange.

5. Remove the bolts retaining the yoke to the axle flange.

6. Separate the yoke from the flange. It may be necessary to pry it free with a small prybar.

7. Remove the bolts and disconnect the driveshaft from the transfer case. It may be necessary to

pry it free with a small prybar.

To install:

8. Place the driveshaft to the transfer case flange and axle pinion flange noting the index marks

made during removal. Tighten the bolts to 87 ft. lbs. (119 Nm).

9. If equipped, install the front driveshaft shield and 3 retaining nuts.

10. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

U-JOINT REPLACEMENT

Single Cardan Universal

Partially pressing the bearing from the center yoke

Click to enlarge

Removing the bearing cup from the center yoke socket

Click to enlarge

Removing the bearing from the rear of the center yoke

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle and place it in a vise, being careful not to damage it.

2. Remove the snaprings which retain the bearings in the flange and in the driveshaft.

3. Place U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C or an equivalent joint press, onto the driveshaft.

4. Slowly tighten the tool to press the spider towards one side. When it will not move any further,

remove the tool and pull the bearing cup out of the bore with pliers.

5. Remove the other bearing cup in the same manner and remove the spider assembly from the

driveshaft. Discard the spider assemblies.

To install:

6. Clean the yoke bores with light sand paper being careful not to change the dimension of the

bores.

7. Remove the bearing cups from the new universal joint. Make sure all the needle bearings are still

in place and held against the sides of the bearing cups with grease.

8. Start a new bearing cup into place with the press. When the cup is firmly held in place but still

below the inner edge of the bore, install the spider. Be careful not to push a needle bearing out

of place.

9. Fit the bearing cup into the other side of the bore and begin pressing it into place. Press the cup

a little at a time and keep checking to make sure the spider turns freely in both cups. When both

cups are pressed fully against the spider, install the snaprings.

If the bearing cups will not press in far enough to install a snapring or if the spider stops

moving freely, a needle bearing has fallen out of place in one of the bearing cups. Stop

pressing and disassemble the universal joint to re-position the bearings. If assembly is

forced, the needle bearings and cups will be destroyed.

10. Install the remaining joint in the same manner.

11. Install the driveshaft and grease the new universal joints.

Rear Driveshaft and U-Joints

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

One-Piece Shaft

The bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange require a 12mm, 12

point wrench or socket to loosen them

Remove the bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange

Separate the driveshaft from the axle flange and ...

... disengage the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft

Insert a plug onto the splines of the transmission output shaft to prevent fluid from

leaking out

1. Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and axle pinion flange.

2. Remove the bolts retaining the yoke to the axle flange.

3. Separate the yoke from the axle flange. It may be necessary to pry it free with a small prybar.

4. Slip the driveshaft off the transmission output shaft splines.

To install:

5. Lubricate the splines of the yoke with a suitable long life grease (Ford recommends a Teflon®

based grease) and install to the transmission output shaft.

6. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle ensuring the index marks made during removal are lined

up.

7. Install the 4 retaining bolts and tighten to 87 ft. lbs. (119 Nm).

8. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Two-Piece Shaft

Two-piece driveshaft with a slip yoke at the transmission end

Click to enlarge

1. Matchmark the driveshaft yoke and axle pinion flange.

2. Remove the bolts retaining the yoke to the axle flange.

3. Remove 2 center bearing support bolts.

4. Lower the driveshaft and slide the yoke off the transmission output shaft.

To install:

5. Lubricate the splines of the yoke with a suitable long life grease and install to the transmission

output shaft.

6. Place the driveshaft in position and start the center bearing support bolts finger-tight.

7. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle ensuring the index marks made during removal are lined

up.

8. Install 4 retaining bolts and tighten to 87 ft. lbs. (119 Nm).

9. Tighten 2 center bearing support bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

10. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

U-JOINT REPLACEMENT

Single Cardan Universal

Refer to the Single Cardan Universal procedure under the Front Driveshaft portion of this section.

Double Cardan Joint

Exploded view—double cardan universal joint

Click to enlarge

1. Working at the rear axle end of the shaft, mark the position of the spiders, the center yoke, and

the centering socket yoke as related to the companion flange. The spiders must be assembled

with the bosses in their original position to provide proper clearances.

2. Remove the snaprings which retain the bearings in the flange and in the driveshaft.

3. Place U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C or an equivalent joint press, on the outer universal joint in the

center yoke.

4. Slowly tighten the tool to press the spider towards one side. When the bearing cup protrudes

about

3

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8

inch from the bore, remove the tool, clamp the bearing cup in a vise and tap on the

center yoke to drive it away from the cup.

5. Remove the opposite bearing cup in the same manner and remove the spider. Note the position

of the lubrication fitting, if equipped.

6. Remove the centering socket yoke and press the other universal joint out in the same manner. Be

To install:

careful not to distort the slinger ring on the driveshaft yoke.

7. Clean the yoke bores with light sand paper, being careful not to change the dimension of the

bores.

8. Remove the bearing cups from the new universal joint. Ensure that all needle bearings are still in

place and held against the sides of the bearing cups with grease.

9. Place the new spider into the driveshaft yoke. Make sure the lubrication fitting is in the original

location so that it will be accessible with the driveshaft installed.

10. Fit the new bearing cups into place, then push them in with the press. Be careful not to push a

needle bearing out of place. Keep checking to make sure the spider turns freely in both cups.

When both cups are pressed fully against the spider, install the snaprings.

If the bearing cups will not press in far enough to install a snapring or if the spider stops

moving freely, a needle bearing has fallen out of place in one of the bearing cups. Stop

pressing and disassemble the universal joint to re-position the bearings. If assembly is

forced, the needle bearings and cups will be destroyed.

11. Install the centering socket yoke and the remaining joints in the same manner.

12. Install the driveshaft and grease the new universal joints.

DRIVESHAFT BALANCING

Marking the driveshaft

Click to enlarge

Installing the hose clamps on the driveshaft

Click to enlarge

Rotating the clamps

Click to enlarge

Driveline vibration or shudder, felt mainly on acceleration, coasting or under engine braking, can be

caused, among other things, by improper driveshaft installation or imbalance.

If the condition follows driveshaft replacement or installation after disconnection, try disconnecting the

driveshaft at the axle and rotating it 180°. Then, reconnect it. If that doesn't work, try the following

procedure:

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands so that all wheels are off the ground and free to rotate.

The truck must be as level as possible.

2. Remove the wheels. Install the lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.

3. Start the engine, place the transmission in gear and increase engine speed to the point at which

the vibration is most severe. Record this speedometer speed as a reference point.

4. Shift into Neutral and shut off the engine.

5. Check all driveshaft attachment fasteners, U-joint bearing caps, U-joint cap retaining rings or cap

locating lugs. Tighten any loose fasteners, replace any missing, damaged or shaved retaining

rings or lugs. If worn U-joints are suspected, replace them. If everything is normal, or if any

corrections made do not solve the problem, continue.

6. Start the engine, place the transmission in gear and increase engine speed to an indicated road

speed of 40-50 mph (64-80 km/h). Maintain this speed with some sort of accelerator control, such

as a weight on the pedal, or have an assistant hold the pedal.

CAUTION

The following procedure can be dangerous! Be careful when

approaching the spinning driveline parts!

7. Carefully raise a piece of chalk until it just barely touches the driveshaft at the front, middle and

rear. At either end, try touching the shaft about an inch or so from the yokes. Don't touch any

existing driveshaft balancing weights. The chalk marks will indicate the heavy points of the

driveshaft. Shut off the engine.

It helps greatly to steady your hand on some sort of support.

8. Check the driveshaft end of the shaft first. If the chalk mark is continuous around the shaft

proceed to the opposite end, then the middle. If the chalk mark is not continuous, install 2 screwtype hose clamps on the shaft so that their heads are 180° from the center of the chalk mark.

9. Start the engine and run it to the speed recorded previously. If the vibration persists, stop the

engine and move the screw portions of the clamps 45° from each other. Try the run test again.

WARNING

Check the engine temperature!

10. If the vibration persists, move the screw portions of the clamps apart in small increments until

the vibration disappears. If this doesn't cure the problem, proceed to the other end, then the

middle, performing the operation all over again. If the problem persists, investigate other

driveline components.

Center Bearing

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove 2 center bearing retaining bolts and remove the center bearing and driveshaft assembly.

2. Check the center bearing for wear or rough action by rotating the inner race while holding the

outer race. If wear or roughness is evident, replace the center bearing assembly. Examine the

To install:

rubber cushion for evidence of hardening, cracking, or deterioration. Replace as required.

3. Place the bearing in the rubber support and the rubber support in the universal shaped support,

if removed.

4. Install the center bearing and drive shaft assembly. While supporting the center bearing in

position, install 2 retaining bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).

5. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Front Drive Axle

Manual Locking Hubs

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Three screws retain the cap to the hub body

Click to enlarge

Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly

Click to enlarge

Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the three screws retaining the cap and remove the cap from the hub.

4. Remove the lockring seated in the groove of the brake rotor assembly.

5. Remove the hub body assembly from the brake rotor assembly.

To install:

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Automatic Locking Hubs

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Automatic locking hubs—exploded view

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the tire.

3. Remove the three screws and separate the cap from the body.

4. Remove the lock-ring seated in the groove of the hub assembly.

5. Remove the body assembly from the brake rotor/hub.

6. Remove the snapring from the groove in the stub-shaft.

7. Remove the three thrust washers from the stub-shaft.

8. Pull the cam assembly to remove it.

To install:

9. Align the fixed cam retaining key on the cam assembly with the key-way on the spindle. Firmly

push the cam assembly on the wheel retaining nut.

10. Install the metal, plastic, then the splined washers on the stub-shaft.

11. Install the snapring in the groove of the stub-shaft. It may be necessary to push the stub-shaft

outward from the back of the knuckle assembly.

WARNING

Do not pack the hub assembly with grease. Too much grease will

damage the hub assembly.

12. Rotate the moving cam assembly to the one o'clock position in relation to the fixed cam retaining

key. Use any one of the three stops.

13. Install the body assembly onto the hub by lining up the three legs with the three pockets in the

cam assembly. Be sure the assembly is in far enough to see the groove in the hub.

14. Install the large lock-ring in the groove on the hub. Ensure the lock-ring is seated completely.

15. Install the cap and tighten the three screws.

16. Install the tire and lower the vehicle to the floor.

Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Dana 50 Independent Front Suspension

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the front wheels.

3. Remove the calipers.

4. Remove the hub/rotor assemblies.

5. Remove the nuts retaining the spindle to the steering knuckle. Tap the spindle with a plastic

mallet to remove it from the knuckle.

6. Remove the splash shield.

7. On the left side, pull the shaft from the carrier, through the knuckle.

8. On the right side, remove and discard the keystone clamp from the shaft and joint assembly and

the stub shaft. Slide the rubber boot onto the shaft and pull the shaft and joint assembly from the

splines of the stub shaft.

9. Place the spindle in a soft-jawed vise clamped on the second step of the spindle.

10. Using a slide hammer and bearing puller, remove the needle bearing from the spindle.

11. Inspect all parts. If the spindle is excessively corroded or pitted it must be replaced. If the Ujoints are excessively loose or don't move freely, they must be replaced. If any shaft is bent, it

must be replaced.

To install:

12. Clean all dirt and grease from the spindle bearing bore. The bore must be free of nicks and burrs.

13. Insert a new spindle bearing in its bore with the printing facing outward. Drive it into place with

drive T80T-4000-S for F-150 and F-250, or T80T-4000-R for the F-350, or their equivalents. Install a

new bearing seal with the lip facing away from the bearing.

14. Pack the bearing and hub seal with grease. Install the hub seal with a driver.

15. Place the thrust washer on the axle shaft.

16. Place a new slinger on the axle shaft.

17. Install the rubber V-seal on the slinger. The seal lip should face the spindle.

18. Install the plastic spacer on the axle shaft. The chamfered side of the spacer should be inboard

against the axle shaft.

19. Pack the thrust face of the seal in the spindle bore and the V-seal on the axle shaft with heavy

duty, high temperature, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

20. On the right side, install the rubber boot and new keystone clamps on the stub shaft and slip

yoke. The splines permit only one way of meshing so you'll have to properly align the missing

spline in the slip yoke with the gapless male spline on the shaft. Slide the right shaft and joint

assembly into the slip yoke, making sure that the splines are fully engaged. Slide the boot over

the assembly and crimp the keystone clamp.

21. On the left side, slide the shaft and joint assembly through the knuckle and engage the splines in

the carrier.

22. Install the splash shield and spindle on the knuckle. Tighten the spindle nuts to 60 ft. lbs. (81

Nm).

23. Install the rotor on the spindle. Install the outer wheel bearing into the cup. Make sure that the

grease seal lip totally encircles the spindle.

24. Install the wheel bearing, locknut, thrust bearing, snapring and locking hubs. See Section 1 .

25. Install the caliper.

Halfshaft

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Remove the front hub cotter pin (1), retainer (2) and nut (3)

Click to enlarge

Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut

Click to enlarge

Remove the two disc caliper mounting bolts, then lift the front disc caliper off of the front

disc brake caliper anchor plate and position aside

Click to enlarge

Remove the six front halfshaft-to-differential bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle

Click to enlarge

1. Break the front wheel lug nuts loose while the weight of the vehicle is resting on the front wheels.

2. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.

3. Remove the front wheels.

4. Remove the front hub cotter pin, retainer and nut.

5. Using a floor hydraulic jack, support the lower suspension arm.

6. Remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and castle nut.

7. Use a Pitman arm puller, such as Ford Tool T64P-3590-F, to separate the front wheel knuckle

from the front suspension upper arm.

8. Lower the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle slightly to facilitate easier halfshaft

removal.

9. Remove the two disc caliper mounting bolts, then lift the front disc caliper off of the front disc

brake caliper anchor plate and position aside. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake

hose; suspend it from the vehicle's frame with strong cord or wire.

10. Remove the six front halfshaft-to-differential bolts.

WARNING

Use care to avoid damaging the hub seal when removing the front

halfshaft.

11. Remove the inboard end of the halfshaft from the differential case or extension axle case.

Separate the front halfshaft and joints from the hub, then remove the halfshaft and joints from

the vehicle.

To install:

12. Slide the halfshaft outboard end into the hub, making sure that the splines engage.

13. Situate the inboard end of the halfshaft against the front differential flange and install the six

halfshaft-to-differential bolts. Tighten the halfshaft bolts to 51-67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm).

14. Install the front disc brake caliper onto the rotor and anchor plate, then install and tighten the two

caliper mounting bolts.

15. Lift the lower suspension arm and steering knuckle up until the upper ball joint stud is inserted

into the steering knuckle. Install and tighten the upper ball joint castle nut. Install a new cotter

pin.

16. Install the hub nut onto the halfshaft and tighten the hub nut to 188-254 ft. lbs. (255-345 Nm).

17. Install the hub nut retainer and a new cotter pin.

18. Install the front wheels.

19. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

CV-Joints

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Before continuing with this procedure, make sure to have available a new CV-joint boot kit,

for each CV-joint being serviced. The outer CV-joint cannot be disassembled, only the boot

can be replaced.

INNER CV-JOINT AND BOOT

1. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

2. Clamp the halfshaft in a vise equipped with jaw caps to prevent damage to machined surfaces.

Do not allow the vise jaws to contact the boot or its clamp.

3. Slide 2 inboard clamp protectors off the boot clamps.

4. Carefully remove 2 boot clamps, and slide the boot off the inner CV-joint and housing.

5. Remove the CV-joint retaining ring and remove the housing.

6. Mark the inner race and the ball cage for assembly.

7. Remove 6 cage balls.

8. Remove the snapring.

9. Remove the inner race and ball cage.

10. Clean all parts in suitable parts cleaning solvent and inspect for wear.

To install:

11. Place the boot and the small boot clamp and protector on the shaft.

12. Place the ball cage on the shaft with the tapered end toward the outer CV-joint.

Line up the marks made at disassembly.

13. Position the inner race on the driveshaft in the position marked on disassembly.

14. Install the snapring.

15. Lubricate and position 6 balls with suitable CV-joint grease.

16. Place the boot protector and boot clamp on the CV-joint housing. Fill the housing with 8.29

ounces of suitable CV-joint grease.

17. Place the housing to the cage and bearings and install the retaining ring.

18. Remove any excess grease from the mating surface and position the boot and clamp.

19. Adjust the CV-joint to boot spacing to 16.43 in. (417.25mm).

20. After adjusting the CV-joint to boot spacing, insert a dull bladed screwdriver blade to relieve built

up air pressure in the boot.

21. Use CV Boot Clamp Installer T95P-3514-A or equivalent, to install the boot clamps.

22. Place the clamp protectors over the boot clamps.

23. Install the halfshaft into the vehicle.

24. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

OUTER BOOT

1. Remove the inner CV-joint and housing from the halfshaft.

2. Remove the inner boot from the halfshaft.

3. Remove the outer boot clamp protectors and carefully remove the boot clamps.

4. Remove the outer boot from the halfshaft and inspect the grease for contamination.

5. If the grease is contaminated, clean and inspect the joint for wear. Replace the joint and shaft if

worn or damaged.

To install:

6. Place the new CV-joint boot on the shaft.

7. Using 5.82 ounces (165 grams) of suitable CV-joint grease, pack the outer CV-joint with grease,

then spread the remaining grease inside the boot.

8. Clean the boot mounting surface and position the boot in the joint grooves.

9. Place the clamps in position and use CV Boot Clamp Installer T95P-3514-A or equivalent, to

install the boot clamps.

10. Place the clamp protectors over the boot clamps.

11. Install the inner boot on the halfshaft.

12. Install the inner CV-joint and housing on the halfshaft.

13. Install the halfshaft in the vehicle.

14. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Pinion Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Independent Front Axle

After the companion flange is removed, the pinion seal is accessible

Click to enlarge

Use a suitable tool to install the pinion seal

Click to enlarge

A torque wrench capable of at least 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm) is required for pinion seal

installation.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop

to rebound position for working clearance.

2. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.

3. Remove the driveshaft. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut

and companion flange.

4. Use a slide hammer and hook or sheet metal screw to remove the oil seal.

To install:

5. Install a new pinion seal after lubricating the sealing surfaces. Use a suitable seal driver. Install

the companion flange and pinion nut. Tighten the nut to 200-220 ft. lbs. (271-298 Nm).

Monobeam Front Axle

A torque wrench capable of at least 300 ft. lbs. (407 Nm) is required for pinion seal

installation.

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

2. Allow the axle to hang freely.

3. Matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the front axle.

4. Using a tool such as T75T-4851-B, or equivalent, hold the pinion flange while removing the pinion

nut.

5. Using a puller, remove the pinion flange.

6. Use a puller to remove the seal, or punch the seal out using a pin punch.

To install:

7. Thoroughly clean the seal bore and make sure that it is not damaged in any way. Coat the sealing

edge of the new seal with a small amount of 80W/90 oil and drive the seal into the housing using

a seal driver.

8. Coat the inside of the pinion flange with clean 80W/90 oil and install the flange onto the pinion

shaft.

9. Install the nut on the pinion shaft and tighten it to 250-300 ft. lbs. (339-407 Nm).

10. Connect the driveshaft.

Right Side Slip Yoke and Stub Shaft, Carrier, Carrier Oil Seal and Bearing

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Dana 50 Independent Front Axle

Right side slip yoke and stub shaft, carrier, carrier oil seal and bearing—Dana 50

Click to enlarge

This procedure requires the use of special tools.

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the front driveshaft from the carrier and wire it up out of the way.

3. Remove the left and right axle shafts and both spindles.

4. Support the carrier with a floor jack and unbolt the carrier from the support arm.

5. Place a drain pan under the carrier, separate the carrier from the support arm and drain the

carrier.

6. Remove the carrier from the truck.

7. Place the carrier in holding fixture T57L-500-B with adapters T80T-4000-B.

8. Rotate the slip yoke and shaft assembly from the carrier.

9. Using a slide hammer/puller remove the caged needle bearing and oil seal as a unit. Discard the

oil seal and bearing.

To install:

10. Clean the bearing bore thoroughly and make sure that it is free of nicks and burrs.

11. Insert a new bearing in its bore with the printing facing outward. Drive it into place with driver

T83T-1244-A, or its equivalent. Install a new bearing seal with the lip facing away from the

bearing. Coat the bearing and seal with waterproof wheel bearing grease.

12. Install the slip yoke and shaft assembly into the carrier so that the groove in the shaft is visible in

the differential case.

13. Install the snapring in the groove in the shaft. It may be necessary to force the snapring into

place with a small prybar. Don't strike the snapring!

14. Remove the carrier from the holding fixture.

15. Clean all traces of sealant from the carrier and support arm. Make sure the mating surfaces are

clean. Apply a

1

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4

in. (6mm) wide bead of RTV sealant to the mating surface of the carrier. The

bead must be continuous and should not pass through or outside of the holes. Install the carrier

with 5 minutes of applying the sealer.

16. Position the carrier on the jack and raise it into position using guide pins to align it if you'd like.

Install and hand-tighten the bolts. Tighten the bolts in a circular pattern to 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54

Nm).

17. Install the support arm tab bolts and tighten them to 85-100 ft. lbs. (115-136 Nm).

18. Install all other parts in reverse order of removal.

Spindle and Front Axle Shaft

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Dana 60 Monobeam

Spindle cap removal for the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Compression spring removal for the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Lower kingpin removal for the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Axle shift components for the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Tapered bushing removal for the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Installing the upper kingpin on the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

Removing the lower kingpin on the Dana 60 Monobeam front drive axle

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the caliper from the knuckle and wire it out of the way.

3. Remove the free-running hub.

4. Remove the front wheel bearings.

5. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.

6. Remove the spindle-to-knuckle bolts. Tap the spindle from the knuckle using a plastic mallet.

7. Remove the splash shield and caliper support.

8. Pull the axle shaft out through the knuckle.

9. Using a slide hammer and bearing cup puller, remove the needle bearing from the spindle.

10. Clean the spindle bore thoroughly and make sure that it is free of nicks and burrs. If the bore is

excessively pitted or scored, the spindle must be replaced.

To install:

11. Insert a new spindle bearing in its bore with the printing facing outward. Drive it into place with

driver T80T-4000-R, or its equivalent. Install a new bearing seal with the lip facing away from the

bearing.

12. Pack the bearing with waterproof wheel bearing grease.

13. Pack the thrust face of the seal in the spindle bore and the V-seal on the axle shaft with

waterproof wheel bearing grease.

14. Carefully guide the axle shaft through the knuckle and into the housing. Align the splines and

fully seat the shaft.

15. Place the bronze spacer on the shaft. The chamfered side of the spacer must be inboard.

16. Install the splash shield and caliper support.

17. Place the spindle on the knuckle and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 50-60 ft. lbs. (68-81

Nm).

18. Install the hub/rotor assembly on the spindle.

19. Assemble the wheel bearings.

20. Assemble the free-running hub.

Axle Housing Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Remove the front differential support

Click to enlarge

Tighten the front differential support bolts as shown

Click to enlarge

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch. Failure to

do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs,

which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

1. With the transmission in Neutral, raise and support the vehicle.

2. Index-mark the front driveshaft to the axle universal joint flange.

WARNING

Do not allow the driveshaft to hang unsupported.

3. Disconnect and support the front driveshaft.

4. Remove the six bolts and disconnect the front drive halfshafts on both sides.

5. Disconnect the vacuum lines and the front axle vent tube.

6. Use a high-lift jack to support the axle assembly.

7. Remove the front differential supports.

8. Carefully lower the front drive axle assembly.

9. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

Dana 50 Front Axle

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands placed under the radius arms.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Remove the calipers and wire them out of the way. Don't disconnect the brake lines.

4. Support the axle arm with a jack and remove the upper coil spring retainers.

5. Lower the jack and remove the coil springs, spring cushions and lower spring seats.

6. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the radius arms and upper mounting brackets.

7. Remove the studs and spring seats at the radius arms and axle arms.

8. Remove the bolts securing the upper attachment to the axle arm and the lower attachment to the

axle arm.

9. Disconnect the vent tube at the housing. Remove the vent fitting and install a

1

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8

in. pipe plug.

10. Remove the pivot bolt securing the right side axle arm to the crossmember. Remove and discard

the boot clamps and remove the boot from the shaft. Remove the right drive axle assembly and

pull the axle shaft from the slip shaft.

11. Support the housing with a floor jack. Remove the bolt securing the left side axle assembly to the

crossmember. Remove the left side drive axle assembly.

12. Installation is basically a reversal of the removal procedure. Always use new boot clamps.

Observe the following torques:

Left and right drive axles-to-crossmember: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm)

Axle arm-to-radius arm: 180-240 ft. lbs. (244-325 Nm)

Coil spring insulator: 30-70 ft. lbs. (41-95 Nm)

Upper spring retainer: 13-18 ft. lbs. (18-24 Nm)

Dana 60 Front Axle

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands placed under the frame.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Remove the calipers and wire them out of the way. Don't disconnect the brake lines.

4. Disconnect the stabilizer links at the stabilizer bar.

5. Remove the U-bolts securing the stabilizer bar and mounting brackets to the axle.

6. Remove the cotter pins and nuts securing the spindle connecting rod to the steering knuckles.

Separate the connecting rod to the steering knuckles. Separate the connecting rods from the

knuckles with a pitman arm puller. Wire the steering linkage to the spring.

7. Matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft from the front axle.

8. Disconnect the vent tube at the axle and plug the fitting.

9. On the right side, disconnect the track bar from the right spring cap.

10. Raise the front end and position jackstands under front springs at a point about half way between

the axle and spring rear hanger. Remove the jackstands from the front of the frame and lower the

truck onto the stands under the springs. Make sure that the truck is securely supported.

11. Support the axle with a floor jack.

12. Remove the U-bolts securing the springs to the axle.

13. Lower the axle from the truck.

To install:

14. Installation is the reverse of removal. Observe the following torques:

Driveshaft-to-flange: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

Track bar nut and bolt: 160-200 ft. lbs. (217-271 Nm)

Stabilizer link nut: 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm)

Stabilizer bar U-bolt: 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm)

Spindle connecting rod-to-knuckle: 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-136 Nm)

Front spring U-bolts: 85-100 ft. lbs. (115-136 Nm)

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Rear Axle

Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch And 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and ...

... the side gear pinion shaft

Push the axles in so that the C-clip groove is accessible, and remove the C-clips from the

axle shafts

Grasp the axle and slide it out of the tube

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheels from the brake drums.

3. Place a drain pan under the housing and drain the lubricant by loosening the housing cover.

4. Remove the locks securing the brake drums to the axle shaft flanges and remove the drums.

5. Remove the housing cover and gasket.

6. Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and the side gear pinion shaft.

7. Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C-locks from the inner end of the axle shafts.

Temporarily replace the shaft and lockbolt to retain the differential gears in position.

8. Remove the axle shafts with a slide hammer. Be sure the seal is not damaged by the splines on

the axle shaft.

9. Remove the bearing and oil seal from the housing. Both the seal and bearing can be removed

with a slide hammer

10. Two types of bearings are used on some axles, one requiring a press fit and the other a loose fit.

A loose fitting bearing does not necessarily indicate excessive wear.

11. Inspect the axle shaft housing and axle shafts for burrs or other irregularities. Replace any work

or damaged parts. A light yellow color on the bearing journal of the axle shaft is normal, and

does not require replacement of the axle shaft. Slight pitting and wear is also normal.

12. Lightly coat the wheel bearing rollers with axle lubricant. Install the bearings in the axle housing

until the bearing seats firmly against the shoulder.

13. Wipe all lubricant from the oil seal bore, before installing the seal.

14. Inspect the original seals for wear. If necessary, these may be replaced with new seals, which are

prepacked with lubricant and do not require soaking.

To install:

15. Install the oil seal.

16. Remove the lockbolt and pinion shaft. Carefully slide the axle shafts into place. Be careful that

you do not damage the seal with the splined end of the axle shaft. Engage the splined end of the

shaft with the differential side gears.

17. Install the axle shaft C-locks on the inner end of the axle shafts and seat the C-locks in the

counterbore of the differential side gears.

18. Rotate the differential pinion gears until the differential pinion shaft can be installed. Install the

differential pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

19. Install the brake drum on the axle shaft flange.

20. Install the wheel and tire on the brake drum and tighten the attaching nuts.

21. Clean the gasket surface of the rear housing and install a new cover gasket and the housing

cover. Some covers do not use a gasket. On these models, apply a bead of silicone sealer on the

gasket surface. The bead should run inside of the bolt holes.

22. Raise the rear axle so that it is in the running position. Add the amount of specified lubricant to

bring the lubricant level to

1

/

2

in. (12.7mm) below the filler hole.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear

Rear axle shaft retaining bolts on the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle

Click to enlarge

Using a hub wrench to remove the hub nuts on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Loosening the hub on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Hub nut removal on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Removing the axle shaft from the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle

Click to enlarge

Installing the step plate adapter tool on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Installing the hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

Unitized rear wheel seals on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

Click to enlarge

The wheel bearings on the full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant

can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary

lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings

during normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.

2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the

axle is parallel with the floor.

3. Remove the wheels.

4. Remove the brake drums.

5. Remove the axle shaft bolts.

6. Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.

7. With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.

8. Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the

slots in the hub nut.

The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub.

The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these

nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

9. Remove the hub nut.

10. Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.

11. Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the

puller and step plate.

12. Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.

13. Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.

14. Lift out the inner bearing.

15. Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.

16. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.

17. Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear

patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way

damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.

18. Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the

races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated

is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the

shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race.

Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!

19. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in Section 1

for the front wheel bearings on 2WD Drive trucks.

To install:

20. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.

When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

21. Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver

such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.

If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

22. Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a

predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.

23. Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.

24. Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

25. Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you

packed the inner bearing.

26. Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.

27. Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the key-way prior to

thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the

thread direction.

28. Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub

occasionally during nut tightening.

29. Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!

30. Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.

31. Install the axle shaft.

32. Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do

not tighten them with a wrench at this time!

33. Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum.

Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.

34. Install the brake drum

35. Install the wheel.

36. Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove

the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.

37. Lower the truck to the floor.

38. Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).

39. Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Tighten them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm).

Dana Axles

Rear wheel hub on the Dana full-floating axle used on the F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

Installing the rear wheel bearings and seal

Click to enlarge

Heavy duty wheel dolly

Click to enlarge

Tightening the hub nut

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

New Dual Rear Wheel models have flat-faced lug nut replacing the old

cone-shaped lug nuts. NEVER replace these new nuts with the older

design! Never replace the newer designed wheels with older design

wheels! The newer wheels have lug holes with special shoulders to

accommodate the newly designed lug nuts.

The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can

also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant.

The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during

normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen, but do not remove, the axle shaft bolts.

2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the

axle is parallel with the floor. The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake.

3. Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.

4. Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel

bearings.

5. Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).

6. Remove the brake caliper. See Section 9 .

7. Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.

The hub nuts for both sides are right-hand thread and marked RH.

8. Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.

9. With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the

inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.

To install:

10. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.

11. Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear

patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.

12. If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with

a block of wood and hammer or press them in.

13. If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between

the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to

make sure the cups are squarely seated.

14. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined for the front

wheel bearings on 2WD trucks in Section 1 . Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.

15. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the

hub with a seal installation tool.

16. Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take

care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.

17. Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the keyway prior to threading.

18. Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel.

The hub will ratchet at torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool

No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.

19. Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° (

1

/

4

turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).

20. Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.

21. Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or

if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.

22. Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt

threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.

23. Install the caliper.

24. Install the wheels.

25. Lower the truck to the groups.

26. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.

27. Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

Pinion Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch and 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

Measuring pinion bearing preload

Click to enlarge

Pinion seal installation for the Ford 8.8 inch rear axle

Click to enlarge

A torque wrench capable of at least 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm) is required for pinion seal

installation.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop

to rebound position for working clearance.

2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.

3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.

4. Remove the driveshaft.

5. Using an inch pound torque wrench and socket on the pinion yoke nut measure the amount of

torque needed to maintain differential rotation through several clockwise revolutions. Record the

measurement.

6. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.

7. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-topinion relation.

8. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.

9. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

10. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver

must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed

and a new seal installed.

11. Drive the new seal into place with a seal driver such as T83T-4676-A. Coat the seal lip with clean,

waterproof wheel bearing grease.

12. Coat the splines with a small amount of wheel bearing grease and install the yoke, aligning the

matchmarks. Never hammer the yoke onto the pinion!

13. Install a NEW nut on the pinion.

14. Hold the yoke with a holding tool. Tighten the pinion nut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm), taking

frequent turning torque readings until the original preload reading is attained. If the original

preload reading, that you noted before disassembly, is lower than the specified reading of 8-14

inch lbs. (0.9-1.6 Nm) for used bearings; 16-29 inch lbs. (1.8-3,3 Nm) for new bearings, keep

tightening the pinion nut until the specified reading is reached. If the original preload reading is

higher than the specified values, tighten the nut just until the original reading is reached.

15. Install the driveshaft using the matchmarks. Tighten the nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

WARNING

Under no circumstances should the nut be backed off to reduce the

preload reading! If the preload is exceeded, the yoke and bearing

must be removed and a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The

entire process of preload adjustment must be repeated.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear

A torque wrench capable of at least 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm) is required for pinion seal

installation.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop

to the rebound position for working clearance.

2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.

3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.

4. Remove the driveshaft.

5. Using an inch pound torque wrench and socket on the pinion yoke nut measure the amount of

torque needed to maintain differential rotation through several clockwise revolutions. Record the

measurement.

6. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.

7. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-topinion relation.

8. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.

9. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

10. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver

must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed

and a new seal installed.

11. Drive the new seal into place with a seal driver such as T83T-4676-A. Coat the seal lip with clean,

waterproof wheel bearing grease.

12. Coat the splines with a small amount of wheel bearing grease and install the yoke, aligning the

matchmarks. Never hammer the yoke onto the pinion!

13. Install a NEW nut on the pinion.

14. Hold the yoke with a holding tool. Tighten the pinion nut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm), taking

frequent turning torque readings until the original preload reading is attained. If the original

preload reading, that you noted before disassembly, is lower than the specified reading of 8-14

inch lbs. (0.9-1.6 Nm) for used bearings; 16-29 inch lbs. (1.8-3.3 Nm) for new bearings, keep

tightening the pinion nut until the specified reading is reached. If the original preload reading is

higher than the specified values, tighten the nut just until the original reading is reached.

WARNING

Under no circumstances should the nut be backed off to reduce the

preload reading! If the preload is exceeded, the yoke and bearing

must be removed and a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The

entire process of preload adjustment must be repeated.

15. Install the driveshaft using the matchmarks.

Dana Axles

A torque wrench capable of at least 500 ft. lbs. (678 Nm) is required for pinion seal

installation.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop

to the rebound position for working clearance.

2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.

3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.

4. Remove the driveshaft.

5. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.

6. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-topinion relation.

7. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.

8. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

9. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver

must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed

and a new seal installed.

10. Coat the new oil seal with wheel bearing grease. Install the seal using oil seal driver T56T-4676-B.

After the seal is installed, make sure that the seal garter spring has not become dislodged. If it

has, remove and replace the seal.

11. Install the yoke, using flange replacer tool D81T-4858-A if necessary to draw the yoke into place.

12. Install a new pinion nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 440-500 ft. lbs. (597-678 Nm).

13. Connect the driveshaft.

Axle Housing Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch and 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR WITH AIR SUSPENSION

Detach the connector for the speed sensor

Click to enlarge

On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the

rear wheel disc brake adapter

Click to enlarge

On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the

way

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings

Click to enlarge

Disconnect the air suspension height sensor

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle

tracking bar out of the way

Click to enlarge

Remove the jounce bumpers

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts, and position the rear suspension arms

and bushings out of the way

Click to enlarge

Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear axle housing vent hose

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Do not remove an air spring under any circumstances when there is

pressure in the air spring. Do not remove any components supporting

an air spring without either exhausting the air or providing support

for the air spring to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in

the RH kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected

inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of

the vehicle during these operations.

1. Deactivate the air suspension.

2. Raise and support the vehicle.

3. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.

4. Detach the connector for the speed sensor.

5. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.

6. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft. Support the driveshaft using a

piece of mechanic's wire or other suitable device.

7. On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel

disc brake adapter.

8. On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way.

Remove the brake discs (rotors).

9. Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.

10. Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.

11. Disconnect the air suspension height sensor.

WARNING

Use extra straps to secure the rear axle to the jack.

12. Install a suitable hydraulic jack under the rear axle housing.

13. Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle tracking bar

out of the way.

14. Remove the jounce bumpers.

15. Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.

16. Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts and position the rear suspension arms and

bushings out of the way.

17. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.

18. Remove the rear axle housing vent hose.

19. Lower the rear axle on the jack until it is clear of the vehicle.

To install:

CAUTION

Use extra straps to secure the rear axle to the jack.

20. Raise the rear axle into place using a suitable hydraulic jack.

21. Position the rear suspension upper front arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.

22. Position the rear suspension arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.

23. Raise the rear axle with the jack until the rear suspension arm and bushings are parallel to the

ground and install the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.

24. Tighten the rear suspension arms and bushings.

25. Tighten the rear suspension upper front arms and bushing retaining bolts.

26. Position the rear axle tracking bars in the bracket and install the retaining bolts.

27. Connect the rear axle housing vent hose.

28. Install and tighten the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.

29. Tighten the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.

30. Tighten the shock absorber retaining bolts.

31. Remove the jack.

32. Install the driveshaft and tighten the retaining capscrews.

33. Lower the vehicle partially.

34. Install the jounce bumper retaining bolts.

35. Install the parking brake rear cables and conduit.

36. Install the brake discs (rotors).

37. Install the rear disc brake calipers.

38. Install the wheels and tires.

39. Connect the air suspension height sensor.

40. Attach the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.

41. Lower the vehicle.

42. Turn on the air suspension control switch.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR WITHOUT AIR SUSPENSION

Detach the connector for the speed sensor

Click to enlarge

On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the

rear wheel disc brake adapter

Click to enlarge

On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the

way

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle

tracking bar out of the way

Click to enlarge

Remove the jounce bumpers

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts and position the rear suspension arms

and bushings out of the way

Click to enlarge

Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the rear axle housing vent hose

Click to enlarge

Remove both coil springs

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.

3. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.

4. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft and wire it out of the way.

5. Wire the driveshaft aside.

6. Disconnect the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.

7. Disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel disc brake adapter.

8. Remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way.

9. Remove the brake disc.

10. Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.

11. Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.

12. Install jack stands beneath the rear axle and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

13. Place a third jack stand under the front of the rear axle housing.

14. Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolts and position the rear axle tracking

bars out of the way.

15. Remove the jounce bumpers.

16. Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.

17. Remove the rear suspension arm and bushing retaining bolt and position the rear suspension

arm and bushing out of the way.

18. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.

19. Remove the rear axle housing vent hose.

CAUTION

This step should be performed with an assistant to keep the axle clear

of obstructions while the vehicle is being raised.

20. Remove the rear axle from the out from under the vehicle.

21. Remove both rear springs.

To install:

CAUTION

The following step should be performed with the aid of an assistant.

22. Position the rear axle on jack stands under the vehicle.

23. Install both rear springs.

24. Position the rear disc brake calipers and brake lines before installing the retaining bolts and nuts.

25. Position the rear suspension upper front arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts and

nuts.

26. Position the rear suspension arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.

27. Install the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.

28. This step should be done with the rear axle resting on jack stands to keep the vehicle as close to

ride height as possible.

29. Tighten the rear suspension arm and bushing.

30. Tighten the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.

31. Raise the vehicle and position the rear axle tracking bar in the bracket and install the retaining

bolts.

32. Connect the rear axle housing vent hose.

33. Install and tighten the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts on both sides.

34. Tighten the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings securely on both sides.

35. Tighten the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.

36. Install the driveshaft and tighten the retaining capscrews.

37. Lower the vehicle partially.

38. Install the jounce bumper retaining bolts.

39. Install the parking brake rear cable and conduit.

40. Install the brake discs (rotors).

41. Install the rear disc brake calipers.

42. Install the wheels and tires.

43. Attach the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.

44. Lower the vehicle.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear With Full Floating Integral Carrier

1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands under the rear frame members, and support the

housing with a floor jack.

2. Matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.

3. Remove the wheels and brake drums.

4. Disengage the brake line from the clips that retain the line to the housing.

5. Disconnect the vent tube from the housing.

6. Remove the hubs.

7. Remove the brake backing plate from the housing, and support them with wire. Do not

disconnect the brake line.

8. Disconnect each rear shock absorber from the mounting bracket stud on the housing.

9. Lower the axle slightly to reduce some of the spring tension. At each rear spring, remove the

spring clip (U-bolt) nuts, spring clips, and spring seat caps.

10. Remove the housing from under the vehicle.

To install:

11. Position the axle housing under the rear springs. Install the spring clips (U-bolts), spring seat

clamps and nuts. Tighten the spring clamps evenly to 200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm).

12. If a new axle housing is being installed, remove the bolts that attach the brake backing plate and

bearing retaining from the old housing flanges. Position the bolts in the new housing flanges to

hold the brake backing plates in position. Tighten the bolts.

13. Connect the vent tube to the housing.

14. Position the brake line to the housing, and secure it with the retaining clips.

15. Raise the axle housing and springs enough to allow connecting the rear shock absorbers to the

mounting bracket studs on the housing.

16. Connect the driveshaft to the axle.

17. Install the brake drums and wheels.

Dana Axles

1. Loosen the rear axle shaft nuts.

2. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands placed under the frame.

3. Remove the rear wheels.

4. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the rear axle.

5. Disconnect the rear stabilizer bar.

6. Disconnect the brake hose at the frame.

7. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer and remove the cables from the support

brackets.

8. Matchmark the driveshaft-to-axle flange position.

9. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and move it out of the way.

10. Detach the speed sensor connector.

11. Take up the weight of the axle with a floor jack.

12. Remove the nuts from the spring U-bolts and remove the spring seat caps.

13. Lower the axle and roll it from under the van.

14. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the spring U-bolt nuts to 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm).

15. Bleed the brake system.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Specification Charts

Torque Specifications

Click to enlarge

Torque Specifications

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

REAR LEAF SPRING SUSPENSION COMPONENTS

1. Rear leaf spring shackle-to-body mounting

2. Leaf spring

3. Front leaf spring shackle-to-body mounting

4. Spring plate and U-bolts

5. Shock absorbers

6. Axle assembly

REAR AIR SPRING SUSPENSION COMPONENTS

1. Stabilizer bar link

2. Track bar

3. Air spring

4. Stabilizer bar bushing

5. Stabilizer bar

6. Axle assembly

7. Control arm

Wheels

Wheel Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2. Remove the jack, tire iron and, if necessary, the spare tire from their storage compartments.

3. Check the owner's manual or refer to Section 1 of this manual for the jacking points on your

vehicle. Then, place the jack in the proper position.

4. If equipped with lug nut trim caps, remove them by either unscrewing or pulling them off the lug

nuts, as appropriate. Consult the owner's manual, if necessary.

5. If equipped with a wheel cover or hub cap, insert the tapered end of the tire iron in the groove and

pry off the cover.

Before jacking the vehicle, block the diagonally opposite wheel with one or, preferably,

two chocks

6. Apply the parking brake and block the diagonally opposite wheel with a wheel chock or two.

Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into

wedges may be used. If possible, keep one or two of the chocks in your tire storage

compartment, in case any of the tires has to be removed on the side of the road.

7. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place the selector lever in P or Park; with a manual

transmission, place the shifter in Reverse.

8. With the tires still on the ground, use the tire iron/wrench to break the lug nuts loose.

With the vehicle still on the ground, break the lug nuts loose using the wrench end of the

tire iron

If a nut is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may

occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the

bolt usually loosens the rust. Be careful, as continued pounding will likely damage the

brake drum or rotor.

9. Using the jack, raise the vehicle until the tire is clear of the ground. Support the vehicle safely

using jackstands.

10. Remove the lug nuts, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.

Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle

To install:

11. Make sure the wheel and hub mating surfaces, as well as the wheel lug studs, are clean and free

of all foreign material. Always remove rust from the wheel mounting surface and the brake rotor

or drum. Failure to do so may cause the lug nuts to loosen in service.

12. Install the tire and wheel assembly and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

13. Using the tire wrench, tighten all the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, until they are snug.

14. Raise the vehicle and withdraw the jackstand, then lower the vehicle.

15. Using a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 126-170 ft. lbs. (170-230 Nm)

on the 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty; 83-112 ft. lbs. ( 113-153 Nm) on the F-150, F-

250, Expedition and Navigator; and 148 ft lbs. (200 Nm) on the 1999-00 F-Super Duty models.

Typical wheel lug tightening sequence

Tighten the lug nuts to specification using a properly calibrated torque wrench

WARNING

Do not overtighten the lug nuts, as this may cause the wheel studs to

stretch or the brake disc (rotor) to warp.

16. If so equipped, install the wheel cover or hub cap. Make sure the valve stem protrudes through

the proper opening before tapping the wheel cover into position.

17. If equipped, install the lug nut trim caps by pushing them or screwing them on, as applicable.

18. Remove the jack from under the vehicle, and place the jack and tire iron/wrench in their storage

compartments. Remove the wheel chock(s).

19. If you have removed a flat or damaged tire, place it in the storage compartment of the vehicle and

take it to your local repair station to have it fixed or replaced as soon as possible.

INSPECTION

Inspect the tires for lacerations, puncture marks, nails and other sharp objects. Repair or replace as

necessary. Also check the tires for treadwear and air pressure as outlined in Section 1 of this

manual.

Check the wheel assemblies for dents, cracks, rust and metal fatigue. Repair or replace as necessary.

Wheel Lug Studs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

With Disc Brakes

1. Raise and support the appropriate end of the vehicle safely using jackstands, then remove the

wheel.

2. Remove the brake pads and caliper. Support the caliper aside using wire or a coat hanger. For

details, please refer to Section 9 of this manual.

3. Remove the outer wheel bearing and lift off the rotor. For details on wheel bearing removal,

installation and adjustment, please refer to Section 1 of this manual.

4. Properly support the rotor using press bars, then drive the stud out using an arbor press.

If a press is not available, CAREFULLY drive the old stud out using a blunt drift. MAKE SURE

the rotor is properly and evenly supported or it may be damaged.

View of the rotor and stud assembly

Click to enlarge

Pressing the stud from the rotor

Click to enlarge

To install:

5. Clean the stud hole with a wire brush and start the new stud with a hammer and drift pin. Do not

use any lubricant or thread sealer.

6. Finish installing the stud with the press.

Use a press to install the stud into the rotor

Click to enlarge

If a press is not available, start the lug stud through the bore in the hub, then position

about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the hub/rotor while

tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD

IS FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.

7. Install the rotor and adjust the wheel bearings.

8. Install the brake caliper and pads.

9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

With Drum Brakes

1. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands, then remove the wheel.

2. Remove the brake drum.

3. If necessary to provide clearance, remove the brake shoes, as outlined in Section 9 of this

manual.

Exploded view of the drum, axle flange and stud

Click to enlarge

Use a C-clamp and socket to press out the stud

Click to enlarge

Force the stud onto the axle flange using washers and a lug nut

Click to enlarge

4. Using a large C-clamp and socket, press the stud from the axle flange.

5. Coat the serrated part of the stud with liquid soap and place it into the hole.

To install:

6. Position about 4 flat washers over the stud and thread the lug nut. Hold the flange while

tightening the lug nut, and the stud should be drawn into position. MAKE SURE THE STUD IS

FULLY SEATED, then remove the lug nut and washers.

7. If applicable, install the brake shoes.

8. Install the brake drum.

9. Install the wheel, then remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.

10. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

2-Wheel Drive Coil Spring Front Suspension

Introduction

A common 2-wheel drive Twin I-Beam front suspension, with ball joints

Click to enlarge

F-150, F-250, and Expedition 2-wheel drive front suspension

Click to enlarge

1999-00 F-250SD and F-350 2-wheel drive front suspension

Click to enlarge

Trucks with 2-Wheel Drive and coil springs use two I-beam type front axles; one for each wheel. One

end of each axle is attached to the spindle and a radius arm, and the other end is attached to a frame

pivot bracket on the opposite side of the truck.

Coil Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

Exploded view of front spring and shock absorber assembly—1997-98 2-wheel drive F-

250HD and F-350 with ball joints

Click to enlarge

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and place jackstands under the frame and a jack under the axle.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Disconnect the shock absorber from the lower bracket.

4. Remove one bolt and nut and remove the rebound bracket.

5. Remove the two spring upper retainer attaching bolts from the top of the spring upper seat and

remove the retainer.

6. Remove the nut attaching the spring lower retainer to the lower seat and axle and remove the

retainer.

7. Place a safety chain through the spring to prevent it from suddenly coming loose. Slowly lower

the axle and remove the spring.

To install:

8. Place the spring in position and raise the front axle.

9. Position the spring lower retainer over the stud and lower seat, and install the two attaching

bolts.

10. Position the upper retainer over the spring coil and against the spring upper seat, and install the

two attaching bolts.

11. Tighten the upper retaining bolts to 13-18 ft. lbs.; the lower retainer attaching nuts to 70-100 ft.

lbs. (95-136 Nm).

12. Connect the shock absorber to the lower bracket. Torque the bolt and nut to 40-60 ft. lbs. (54-81

Nm). Install the rebound bracket.

13. Remove the jack and safety stands.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the disc brake caliper and support aside with wire to prevent damage to the brake hose.

4. Remove 2 retaining bolts and the disc brake adapter.

5. Remove the brake rotor.

6. Remove 3 retaining bolts and the brake rotor splash shield.

7. Remove the shock absorber.

8. Remove the bracket supporting the brake hose.

9. Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining nut and bushing from the lower control arm. Separate the

stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm.

10. Install Coil Spring Compressor D78P-5310A or equivalent and compress the coil spring enough

to relieve the tension of the spring between the upper and lower control arms.

11. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint. Using Pitman Arm Puller

T64P-3590-F or equivalent, separate the lower ball joint from the wheel spindle.

12. Match mark the lower control arm alignment cams for installation reference.

13. Remove the lower control arm retaining nuts and bolts.

14. Remove the lower control arm and the compressed coil spring as an assembly.

15. Loosen the coil spring compressor and remove the coil spring from the lower control arm.

16. Inspect the coil spring and replace as needed.

To install:

17. Place the coil spring correctly in the saddle of the lower control arm. Install the coil spring

compressor and compress the coil spring. The end of the coil spring A, must cover the hole

designated B and be visible in the second hole designated as C, for proper installation.

18. Place the lower control arm to the frame. Install the retaining bolts, adjusting cams, and nuts.

19. Align the match marks on the adjusting cams. The forward nut must be tighten first while the

control arm is held at the curb position height. Tighten the nuts to 197-241 ft. lbs. (270-330 Nm).

20. Install the lower ball joint stud into the wheel spindle. Install the castellated nut and tighten to 83-

113 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.

21. Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower control arm. Install the bushing and retaining nut.

Tighten to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm).

22. Remove the coil spring compressor.

23. Install the shock absorber. Tighten the lower bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) and the top nut to 45 ft.

lbs. (61 Nm).

24. Connect the brake hose bracket.

25. Install the brake rotor splash shield. Install 3 retaining bolts and tighten to 90-107 inch lbs. (10-14

Nm).

26. Install the disc brake rotor and caliper assemblies.

27. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

28. Lower the vehicle.

29. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads prior to moving the vehicle.

30. Check the alignment and adjust if out of specification.

31. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1999-00 F-250SD and F-350

1. Remove the front shock absorber. Refer to the procedure in this section.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Using a suitable jack, support the front axle assembly.

4. Remove the upper spring retainer.

5. Lower the front axle until the spring is free of the upper spring seat.

6. Using an extension through the top of the spring, remove the lower spring retainer.

7. Remove the front spring.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Shock Absorbers

TESTING

The purpose of the shock absorber is simply to limit the motion of the spring during compression and

rebound cycles. If the vehicle is not equipped with these motion dampers, the up and down motion

would multiply until the vehicle was alternately trying to leap off the ground and to pound itself into

the pavement.

Contrary to popular rumor, the shocks do not affect the ride height of the vehicle. This is controlled by

other suspension components such as springs and tires. Worn shock absorbers can affect handling; if

the front of the vehicle is rising or falling excessively, the "footprint" of the tires changes on the

pavement and steering is affected.

The simplest test of the shock absorber is simply push down on one corner of the unladen vehicle and

release it. Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most cases, it will come up beyond it

original rest position, dip back below it and settle quickly to rest. This shows that the damper is

controlling the spring action. Any tendency to excessive pitch (up-and-down) motion or failure to

return to rest within 2-3 cycles is a sign of poor function within the shock absorber. Oil-filled shocks

may have a light film of oil around the seal, resulting from normal breathing and air exchange. This

should NOT be taken as a sign of failure, but any sign of thick or running oil definitely indicates

failure. Gas filled shocks may also show some film at the shaft; if the gas has leaked out, the shock

will have almost no resistance to motion.

When fluid is seeping out of the shock absorber, it's time to replace it

While each shock absorber can be replaced individually, it is recommended that they be changed as a

pair (both front or both rear) to maintain equal response on both sides of the vehicle. Chances are

quite good that if one has failed, its mate is weak also.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

1. Raise the vehicle and secure on support stands.

2. Remove the self-locking nut, steel washer, and rubber bushings at the upper end of the shock

absorber.

3. Remove the bolt and nut at the lower end and remove the shock absorber.

To install:

4. When installing a new shock absorber, use new rubber bushings. Position the shock absorber on

the mounting brackets with the stud end at the top. Install the upper bushing, steel washer and

self-locking nut at the upper end, and the bolt and nut at the lower end.

5. Torque the upper mounting studs to 18-22 ft. lbs. and the lower mounting nuts to 40-60 ft. lbs.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

1. Hold the shock absorber stem and remove the nut from the top of the shock.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove 2 lower retaining nuts and remove the shock absorber.

To install:

4. Install 1 washer and bushing to the top stem of the shock absorber.

5. Place the shock absorber up through the coil spring.

6. Install 2 lower retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-34 Nm).

7. Lower the vehicle.

8. Install the bushing, washer and retaining nut to the top of the shock absorber stud. Tighten the

nut to 34-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

9. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1999-00 F-250SD and F-350

1. Raise the hood and remove the upper shock absorber retaining nut and upper shock absorber

insulator.

2. Raise and support the vehicle.

3. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and remove the shock absorber.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Upper Ball Joints

INSPECTION

1. Before an inspection of the ball joint, make sure the front wheel bearings are properly packed and

adjusted.

2. Jack up the front of the truck and safely support it with jackstands, placing the stands under the

I-beam axle, beneath the spring.

3. Have a helper grab the lower edge of the tire and move the wheel assembly in and out.

4. While the wheel is being moved, observe the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw

(the end of the axle to which the spindle assembly attaches). If there is

1

/

32

in. (0.8mm) or greater

movement between the lower part of the axle jaw and the lower spindle arm, the lower ball joint

must be replaced.

5. To check upper ball joints, grab the upper edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out. If there

is

1

/

32

in. (0.8mm) or greater movement between the upper spindle arm and the upper part of the

jaw, the upper ball joint must be replaced.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

Remove the ball joint with the special tool

Click to enlarge

Use the C-frame as shown to install the ball joint

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Do not use a forked ball joint removal tool to separate the ball joints

as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket. Do not use heat

to aid in removal or installation of any suspension parts or

components.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly and support it from the body way with wire. Do not

disconnect the brake line or allow the caliper to hang on the brake line.

4. Remove the brake rotor/hub assembly.

5. Remove the wheel spindle or steering knuckle assembly with the ball joints attached.

6. Place the spindle/knuckle assembly in a suitable vise.

7. Remove the lower ball joint. This is required to access the upper ball joint.

8. Remove the snap-ring from the upper ball joint.

9. Install U-Joint Remover T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A or equivalents, on the upper

ball joint. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the upper ball joint is pressed out of the

spindle/knuckle assembly.

To install:

10. Place the new upper ball joint to the spindle/knuckle assembly and install U-Joint Remover T74P-

4635-C, Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1, or equivalents. Turn the

forcing screw clockwise until the upper ball joint is seated.

11. Install the snap-ring onto the upper ball joint.

12. Install the lower ball joint.

13. Remove the spindle/knuckle assembly from the vise and install to the axle arm.

14. Install the brake rotor/hub assembly.

15. Install the front brake caliper assembly.

16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

17. Lower the vehicle.

18. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads before moving the vehicle.

19. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

20. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

The upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and is not a serviceable component.

Replacement of the ball joint requires replacing the upper control arm assembly.

Radius Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

Exploded view of the radius arm assembly—2-wheel drive F-250HD and F-350 models

Click to enlarge

A torque wrench with a capacity of at least 350 ft. lbs. (475 Nm) is necessary, along with

other special tools, for this procedure.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and place jackstands under the frame and a jack under the wheel or

axle. Remove the wheels.

2. Disconnect the shock absorber from the radius arm bracket.

3. Remove the two spring upper retainer attaching bolts from the top of the spring upper seat and

remove the retainer.

4. Remove the nut which attached the spring lower retainer to the lower seat and axle and remove

the retainer.

5. Lower the axle and remove the spring.

6. Remove the spring lower seat and shim from the radius arm. The, remove the bolt and nut which

attach the radius arm to the axle.

7. Remove the cotter pin, nut and washer from the radius arm rear attachment.

8. Remove the bushing from the radius arm and remove the radius arm from the vehicle.

9. Remove the inner bushing from the radius arm.

To install:

10. Position the radius arm to the axle and install the bolt and nut finger-tight.

11. Install the inner bushing on the radius arm and position the arm to the frame bracket.

12. Install the bushing, washer, and attaching nut. Tighten the nut to 120 ft. lbs. (162 Nm) and install

the cotter pin.

13. Tighten the radius arm-to-axle bolt to 269-329 ft. lbs. (365-446 Nm).

14. Install the spring seat and insulator on the radius arm so that the hole in the seat fits over the

arm-to-axle nut.

15. Install the spring.

16. Connect the shock absorber. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-60 ft. lbs. (54-81 Nm).

17. Install the wheels.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

Front stabilizer bar installation—2-wheel drive F-250HD and F-350 models

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the right and left stabilizer bar ends from the link assembly.

3. Disconnect the retainer bolts and remove the stabilizer bar.

4. Disconnect the stabilizer link assemblies by loosening the right and left lock-nuts from their

respective brackets on the I-beams.

To install:

5. Loosely install the entire assembly. The links are marked with an R and L for identification.

6. Tighten the link-to-stabilizer bar and axle bracket fasteners to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

7. Check to make sure that the insulators are properly seated and the stabilizer bar is centered.

8. Tighten the stabilizer bar-to-frame retainer bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Tighten the frame mounting

bracket nuts/bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

F-150, F-250 And Expedition

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove both stabilizer bar-to-stabilizer bar link retaining nuts, washers and bushings and

separate the stabilizer bar ends from the stabilizer bar links.

3. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms, if needed.

4. Remove 4 bolts securing 2 stabilizer bar insulator brackets.

5. Remove the stabilizer bar brackets and the stabilizer bar.

To install:

6. Place the stabilizer bar in position and install 2 stabilizer bar insulator brackets. Install 4 retaining

bolts and tighten to 19-26 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).

7. Install the stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms, if removed.

8. Connect the stabilizer bar to the stabilizer bar links. Install the bushings, washers and retaining

nuts. Tighten the stabilizer bar link retaining nuts to 12-15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).

9. Lower the vehicle.

10. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1999-00 F-250SD and F-350

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the stabilizer bar retainer brackets retaining bolts and remove the brackets.

3. Remove the lower stabilizer bar link nuts, washers and bolts.

4. Remove the stabilizer bar.

5. Remove the upper stabilizer bar link nuts and bolts, and remove the links.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Twin I-Beam Axles

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

Axle pivot bracket and axle arm installation—2-wheel drive F-250HD and F-350 models

Click to enlarge

Installing axle pivot bushing

Click to enlarge

A torque wrench with a capacity of at least 350 ft. lbs. (475 Nm) is necessary, along with

other special tools, for this procedure.

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the spindles.

3. Remove the springs.

4. Remove the stabilizer bar.

5. Remove the lower spring seats from the radius arms.

6. Remove the radius arm-to-axle bolts.

7. Remove the axle-to-frame pivot bolts and remove the axles.

To install:

8. Position the axle on the pivot bracket and loosely install the bolt/nut.

9. Position the other end on the radius arm and install the bolt. Tighten the bolt to 269-329 ft. lbs.

(365-446 Nm).

10. Install the spring seats.

11. Install the springs.

12. Tighten the axle pivot bolts to 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm).

13. Install the spindles.

14. Install the stabilizer bar.

Front Wheel Knuckle and Spindle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

Exploded view of the front wheel spindle— 2-wheel drive F-250HD and F-350 with ball

joints

Click to enlarge

Spindle removal

Click to enlarge

All 2-Wheel Drive pick-ups utilize upper and lower ball joints.

1. Jack up the front of the truck and safely support it with jackstands.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly and hold it out of the way with a piece of wire. Do not

disconnect the brake line.

4. Remove the brake rotor from the spindle.

5. Remove the inner bearing cone and seal. Discard the seal, as you'll be fitting a new one during

installation.

6. Remove the brake dust shield.

7. Disconnect the steering linkage from the spindle arm using a tie rod removal tool.

8. Remove the cotter from the upper and lower ball joint stud nuts. Discard the cotter pins, as new

ones should be installed during reassembly.

9. Remove the upper ball joint nut and loosen the lower ball joint nut to the end of the threads.

10. Strike the inside area or the spindle as shown in the illustration to pop the ball joints loose from

the spindle.

WARNING

Do not use a forked ball joint removal tool to separate the ball joints

as this will damage the seal and ball joint socket.

11. Remove the nut. Remove the spindle.

To install:

Before reassembly, be advised that new cotter pins should be used on the ball joints, and

that new bearing seal(s) should also be used. Also, make sure the upper and lower ball

joint seals are in place.

12. Place the spindle over the ball joints.

13. Install the nuts on the lower ball joint stud and partially tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Turn the

castellated nut until you are able to install the cotter pin.

14. Install the camber adapter in the upper spindle over the upper ball joint stud. Be sure the adapter

is aligned properly.

If camber adjustment is necessary special adapters must be installed.

15. Install the nut on the upper ball joint stud. Hold the camber adapter with a wrench to keep the ball

stud from turning. If the ball stud turns, tap the adapter deeper into the spindle. Tighten the nut

to 110-140 ft. lbs. (149-190 Nm) and continue tightening the castellated nut until it lines up with

the hole in the stud. Install the cotter pin.

16. Tighten the lower nut to 110-140 ft. lbs. (149-190 Nm). Advance the nut to install a new cotter pin.

17. Install the brake dust shield.

18. Pack the inner and outer bearing cone with a quality wheel bearing grease by hand, working the

grease through the cage behind the roller.

19. Install the inner bearing cone and seal. Install the hub and rotor on the spindle.

20. Install the outer bearing cone, washer, and nut. Adjust the bearing end-play and install the nut

retainer, cotter pin and dust cap.

21. Install the brake caliper. connect the steering linkage to the spindle. Tighten the nut to 70-100 ft.

lbs. (95-135 Nm) and advance the nut as far necessary to install the cotter pin.

22. Install the wheels. Lower the truck and adjust toe-in if necessary.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking, or towing an air suspension vehicle. This

can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located

in the PASSENGER SIDE kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in

unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result

in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the brake disc shield.

4. Use a suitable jack to support the front suspension lower arm.

5. Remove the upper ball joint castellated nut.

6. Remove the cotter pin.

7. Remove the ball joint nut.

8. Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the ball joint from the front wheel spindle.

9. Remove the upper shock absorber nut.

10. Remove two shock absorber lower nuts.

11. Remove the front shock absorber.

12. Remove the cotter pin.

13. Remove the castellated nut.

14. Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel spindle.

15. Use the Coil Spring Compressor to compress the coil spring.

16. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin.

17. Remove lower ball joint castellated nut.

18. Use the Pitman Arm Puller to separate the lower ball joint from the front wheel spindle.

19. Remove the front wheel spindle.

To install:

20. Install the lower ball joint castellated nut.

21. Install a new cotter pin.

22. Install the upper ball joint castellated nut.

23. Install a new cotter pin.

24. Remove the Coil Spring Compressor.

25. Install the tie rod castellated nut.

26. Install a new cotter pin.

27. Install the front shock absorber and the two shock absorber lower nuts.

28. Install the upper shock absorber nut.

29. Install the brake disc shield.

30. If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.

31. Install the tire and wheel assembly.

32. Inspect and adjust the front end alignment.

Lower Ball Joint

INSPECTION

Refer to Inspection under Upper Ball Joint in this section.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

Remove the ball joint with the special tool

Click to enlarge

Use the C-frame as shown to install the ball joint

Click to enlarge

Lower ball joint installation

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Do not use a forked ball joint removal tool to separate the ball joints

as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket. Do not use heat

to aid in removal or installation of any suspension parts or

components.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly and support it from the body way with wire. Do not

disconnect the brake line or allow the caliper to hang on the brake line.

4. Remove the brake rotor/hub assembly.

5. Remove the wheel spindle or steering knuckle assembly with the ball joints attached.

6. Place the spindle/knuckle assembly in a suitable vise.

7. Remove the lower ball joint. This is required to access the upper ball joint.

8. Remove the snap-ring from the upper ball joint.

9. Install U-Joint Remover T74P-4635-C and Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A or equivalents, on the upper

ball joint. Turn the forcing screw clockwise until the upper ball joint is pressed out of the

spindle/knuckle assembly.

To install:

10. Place the new upper ball joint to the spindle/knuckle assembly and install U-Joint Remover T74P-

4635-C, Receiver Cup D81T-3010-A5 and Installation Cup D81T-3010-A1, or equivalents. Turn the

forcing screw clockwise until the upper ball joint is seated.

11. Install the snap-ring onto the upper ball joint.

12. Install the lower ball joint.

13. Remove the spindle/knuckle assembly from the vise and install to the axle arm.

14. Install the brake rotor/hub assembly.

15. Install the front brake caliper assembly.

16. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

17. Lower the vehicle.

18. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads before moving the vehicle.

19. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

20. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

The lower ball joint is an integral part of the lower control arm and is not a serviceable component.

Replacement of the ball joint requires replacing the lower control arm.

Hub and Bearing

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

The hub is part of the disc brake rotor and cannot be serviced separately. The inner and outer wheel

bearing and races are serviced individually. Make sure to have a new hub grease seal when servicing

the wheel bearings.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the disc brake caliper.

4. Remove the disc brake pads and anti-rattle clips.

5. Remove 2 anchor plate retaining bolts and remove the anchor plate.

6. Remove the hub grease cap, cotter pin, retainer washer and the spindle nut.

7. Remove the wheel bearing retainer washer and the outer wheel bearing.

8. Remove the disc brake hub and rotor assembly.

9. Using a suitable seal remover, remove and discard the hub grease seal.

10. Remove the inner wheel bearing.

11. Clean and inspect the wheel bearings and races for unusual wear or damage. Replace parts as

necessary.

12. Inspect the hub and brake rotor assembly. If required, the hub and brake rotor assembly must be

To install:

replaced as a unit.

13. If needed, pack the wheel bearing with a suitable high temperature wheel bearing grease before

assembly.

14. Install the inner wheel bearing in the hub and brake rotor assembly.

15. Install a new grease seal using a suitable installation tool.

16. Place the hub and rotor assembly on the wheel spindle and install the outer wheel bearing.

17. Install the retainer washer and the spindle nut.

18. Adjust the wheel bearings as follows:

1. Torque the spindle nut to 17-24 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm) while

rotating the wheel and tire assembly to seat the wheel

bearings.

2. Back off the spindle nut no less than

1

/

2

turn.

3. Torque the spindle nut to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).

19. Install the retaining washer so the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install a new

cotter pin.

20. Place the anchor plate and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 125-168 ft. lbs. (170-230

Nm).

21. Install the brake pad anti-rattle clips and install the disc brake pads.

22. Install the disc brake caliper.

23. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

24. Check the wheel and tire assembly for proper rotation, then install the grease cap.

25. Lower the vehicle.

26. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Front Wheel Bearings

Refer to Brake Rotor in Section 9 for removal and installation of the wheel bearings.

Wheel Alignment

If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems

uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is

suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn

suspension or steering components, accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or

damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned.

Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be

accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician. Take your vehicle to a properly

equipped shop.

Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they

affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually

only the front suspension is adjustable.

CASTER

Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle.

The steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom.

The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is

tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels

self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to

steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear

springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than

normal, the caster becomes more positive.

Caster affects straight-line stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example,

employ positive caster

Click to enlarge

CAMBER

Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When

the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a

turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However,

too much negative camber compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque

steer.

Camber influences tire contact with the road

Click to enlarge

TOE

Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the

wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front,

they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances

directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway.

With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

2-Wheel Drive Leaf Spring Front Suspension

Introduction

1997-98 F-Super Duty chassis/cab front suspension

Click to enlarge

The F-Super Duty chassis/cab utilizes leaf springs attached to a solid, I-beam type front axle. The

springs are mounted on the axle with U-bolts and attached to the frame side rails by a fixed bracket

at the rear and moveable shackles at the front.

The F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis utilize leaf springs attached to a solid, Ibeam type front axle. The springs are mounted on the axle with U-bolts and attached to the frame

side rails by a fixed bracket at the front and moveable shackles at the rear.

Chassis/cab models also utilize a tracking bar between the left side of the No.1 crossmember and the

right side of the axle beam, inboard of the right spring pad.

Leaf Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-Super Duty

Front spring and shock absorber installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

Front spring and shock absorber installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor

home chassis models

Click to enlarge

Front stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor home chassis

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands with the tires still touching the ground.

2. Using jacks, take up the weight of the axle, off the U-bolts.

3. Disconnect the lower end of each shock absorber.

4. Disconnect the spring from the front bracket or shackle.

5. Disconnect the spring from the rear bracket or shackle.

6. Remove the U-bolt nuts.

7. Remove the U-bolts.

8. Disconnect the jack bracket or stabilizer bar as necessary.

9. Lower the axle slightly and remove the spring. Take note of the position of the spring spacer.

To install

10. Position the spring on its seat on the axle and raise it to align the front of the spring with the

bracket or shackle.

11. Coat the bushing with silicone grease.

12. Carefully guide the attaching bolt through the bracket or shackle, and the bushing.

13. Install the nut and, depending on model or which bolts you removed, torque it to: chassis/cab spring-to-shackle: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm) chassis/cab shackle-to-frame: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm) stripped chassis or motor home chassis spring-to-bracket: 148-207 ft. lbs. (200-281 Nm)

14. In a similar fashion, attach the rear of the spring. The torques are: chassis/cab spring-to-bracket: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm) stripped chassis or motor home chassis spring-to-shackle or shackle-to-bracket: 74-110 ft. lbs.

(100-149 Nm)

15. Position the spacer on the spring.

16. Install the U-bolts. Install the jack bracket or stabilizer bar bracket on the forward U-bolt. Install

the U-bolt nuts. Tighten the nuts, evenly and in gradual increments, in a crisscross fashion, to: chassis/cab: 150-210 ft. lbs. (203-285 Nm) stripped chassis and motor home chassis: 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm)

17. Connect the shock absorbers. Tighten them to: chassis/cab models, shock absorber-to-bracket nuts to 52-74 ft. lbs. (71-100 Nm).

stripped chassis or motor home chassis models, lower attaching bolt to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407

Nm)

Shock Absorbers

1997-98 F-Super Duty chassis/cab front suspension

Click to enlarge

Front spring and shock absorber installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

Front spring and shock absorber installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor

home chassis models

Click to enlarge

TESTING

Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the nut and bolt which retains the shock to the upper bracket.

2. Remove the nut (chassis/cab) or nut and bolt (stripped chassis and motor home chassis) that

retains the lower end of the shock at the spring.

3. Installation is the reverse of removal. It's a good idea to lubricate the bushings with silicone

grease prior to installation. Tighten the fasteners as follows: chassis/cab upper and lower: 52-74 ft. lbs. (71-100 Nm) stripped cab and motor home chassis upper and lower: 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm)

Spindle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-Super Duty

Front wheel spindle installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab models

Click to enlarge

Front wheel spindle installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis or motor home chassis

models

Click to enlarge

Top spindle bushings replacement

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see Section 9 ).

4. Remove the hub and rotor assembly (see Section 9 ).

5. Remove the inner bearing and seal. Discard the seal.

6. Remove the dust shield.

7. Remove the cotter pin and nut, and, using a ball joint separator—the forcing screw type, not the

fork type—disconnect the tie rod end from the spindle arm.

8. On stripped chassis and motor home models, disconnect the drag link from the steering arm

using a forcing type ball joint separator.

9. Remove the nut and washer from the spindle bolt lock pin and remove the lock pin.

10. Remove the upper and lower spindle pin plugs.

11. Using a brass drift, drive out the spindle pin from the top and remove the spindle and thrust

bearing.

12. Remove the thrust bearing and seal.

To install:

13. Clean the spindle pin bore and make sure it is free of corrosion, nicks or burrs. Light corrosion

and other irregularities can be removed.

14. Lightly coat the bore with lithium based grease meeting ESA-M1C75-B rating.

15. Install a new spindle pin seal with the metal side facing up into the spindle. Gently press the seal

into position being careful to avoid distorting it.

16. Install a new thrust bearing with the lip flange facing downward. Press the bearing in until firmly

seated against the surface of the spindle.

17. Lightly coat the bushing surface with lithium based grease and place the spindle on the axle.

18. Hold the spindle, with the thrust bearing in place, tightly against the axle, and measure the space

between the axle and spindle at the top of the axle. Determine what thickness of shims is

necessary to eliminate all play. Install the shims, available from the dealer.

19. One end of the spindle pin is stamped with a T. Install the spindle pin, from the top, with the T at

the top and the notch aligned with the lock pin hole.

20. Install the lock pin with the threads forward and the wedge groove facing the spindle pin notch.

Drive the lock pin in all the way and install the nut. Tighten the nut to 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm).

21. Install the spindle pin plugs. Tighten them to 35-50 ft. lbs. (47-68 Nm).

22. Lubricate the spindle pin through the fittings until grease seeps past the upper seal and the

thrust bearing slip joint at the bottom. If grease can't be forced past these points, the installation

was probably done incorrectly and will have to be disassembled and re-assembled.

23. Install the dust shield.

24. Clean, pack and install the bearings. Install a new seal.

25. Install the hub and rotor assembly.

26. Install the caliper.

27. Connect the tie rod end and, if necessary, the drag link. Tighten the nuts to 50-70 ft. lbs. (68-95

Nm). Always advance the nut to align the cotter pin holes. NEVER back them off! Always use

new cotter pins!

28. Install the wheels.

BRONZE SPINDLE BUSHING REPLACEMENT

Bearing seal installation on F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

Solid front axle spindle bushing installation

Click to enlarge

Spindle bushing replacement tools for solid front axles

Click to enlarge

Bottom spindle bushing replacement

Click to enlarge

Reaming the bushings

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the spindle and secure it in a bench vise.

2. The bushings have an inside diameter of 1.301-1.302 in. (33.05-33.07mm). Use the following tools

or their equivalents:

Reamer T88T-3110-BH

Bushing Remover/Installer T88T-3110-AH

Driver Handle T80T-4000-W—One side of the Remover/Installer is marked with a T ; the other side

with a B. The T side is used on the top bushing; the B side is for the bottom bushing.

3. Remove and discard the seal from the upper bushing bore.

4. Working on the upper bushing first, install the driver handle through the bottom bore. Position a

new bushing on the T side of the tool. The bushing must be positioned so that the open end

grooves will face outward when installed. Position the bushing and tool over the old bushing,

insert the handle and drive out the old bushing while driving in the new bushing. Continue

driving until the tool is fully seated. The new bushing should then be seated at the proper depth

of 0.08 in. (2.03mm) minimum from the bottom of the upper spindle boss.

5. Working on the bottom bushing, position the driver handle through the top bushing bore.

Position a new bushing on the B side of the tool. The bushing must be positioned so that the

open end grooves will face outward when installed. Position the bushing and tool over the old

bushing, insert the handle and drive out the old bushing while driving in the new bushing.

Continue driving until the tool is fully seated. The new bushing should then be seated at the

proper depth of 0.13 in. (3.3mm) minimum from the top of the lower spindle boss.

6. Ream the new bushings to 0.001-0.003 in. (0.025-0.076mm) larger than the diameter of the new

spindle pin. Ream the top bushing first. Install the smaller diameter of the reamer through the

top bore and into the bottom bore until the threads are in position is the top bushing. Ream the

bushing until the threads exit the top bushing. Ream the bottom bushing. The larger diameter

portion of the tool will act as a pilot in the top bushing to properly ream the bottom bushing.

7. Remove the tool and thoroughly clean all metal shavings from the bushings and surrounding

parts. Coat the bushings and spindle pins with grease meeting specification ESA-M1C75-B.

8. Install a new seal on the Remover/Installer on the T side. Using the handle, push the seal into

position in the bottom of the top bore.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-Super Duty Chassis/Cab

Front stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Disconnect each end of the bar from the links.

3. Disconnect the bar from the axle.

4. Unbolt and remove the links from the frame.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace any worn or cracked rubber parts. Install the bar

loosely and make sure it is centered between the leaf springs. Make sure the insulators are

seated in the retainers. When everything is in proper order, tighten the stabilizer bar-to-axle

mounting bolts to 35-50 ft. lbs. (47-68 Nm). Tighten the end link-to-frame bolts to 52-74 ft. lbs.

(71-100 Nm). Tighten the bar-to-end link nuts to 15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm).

1997-98 F-Super Duty Stripped Chassis or Motor Home Chassis

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the stabilizer bar ends from the links attached to the axle.

3. Remove the bar-to-frame bolts and remove the bar.

4. Remove the links from the axle brackets.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace any worn or cracked rubber parts. Assemble all

parts loosely and make sure the assembly is centered on the frame. make sure that the

insulators are seated in the retainers. When everything is in proper order, tighten the bar-toframe brackets bolts to 30-47 ft. lbs. (41-64 Nm). Tighten the link-to-axle bracket bolts to 57-81 ft.

lbs. (77-110 Nm). Tighten the bar-to-link nuts to 15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm).

Track Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Chassis/Cab Models

Track bar installation—1997-98 F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Unbolt the track bar from the crossmember bracket.

3. Unbolt the track bar from the axle bracket.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the bolts at each end to 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203

Nm).

Front Wheel Bearings

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-Super Duty

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel cover. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the caliper from the disc and wire it to the underbody to prevent damage to the brake

hose.

4. Remove the grease cap from the hub. Then, remove the cotter pin, nut lock, adjusting nut and flat

washer from the spindle. Remove the outer bearing assembly from the hub.

5. Pull the hub and disc assembly off the wheel spindle.

6. Remove and discard the old grease retainer. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly

from the hub.

7. Clean all grease from the inner and outer bearing cups with solvent. Inspect the cups for pits,

scratches, or excessive wear. If the cups are damaged, remove them with a drift.

8. Clean the inner and outer cone and roller assemblies with solvent and shake them dry. If the cone

and roller assemblies show excessive wear or damage, replace them with the bearing cups as a

unit.

9. Clean the spindle and the inside of the hub with solvent to thoroughly remove all old grease.

10. Covering the spindle with a clean cloth, brush all loose dirt and dust from the brake assembly.

Remove the cloth carefully so as to not get dirt on the spindle.

11. If the inner and/or outer bearing cups were removed, install the replacement cups on the hub. Be

sure that the cups seat properly in the hub.

12. It is imperative that all old grease be removed from the bearings and surrounding surfaces before

repacking. The new lithium-based grease is not compatible with the sodium base grease used in

the past.

13. Install the hub and disc on the wheel spindle. To prevent damage to the grease retainer and

spindle threads, keep the hub centered on the spindle.

14. Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and the flat washer on the spindle. Install the

adjusting nut.

15. Adjust the wheel bearings by torquing the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm) with the wheel

rotating to seat the bearing. Then back off the adjusting nut

1

/

2

turn. Retighten the adjusting nut

to 10-15 inch lbs. (1-1.7 Nm). Install the lock-nut so that the castellations are aligned with the

cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin. Bend the ends of the cotter pin around the castellations of

the lock-nut to prevent interference with the radio static collector in the grease cap. Install the

grease cap.

WARNING

New bolts must be used when servicing floating caliper units. The

upper bolt must be tightened first.

16. Install the wheels.

17. Install the wheel cover.

Wheel Alignment

Refer to wheel alignment under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

4-Wheel Drive Leaf Spring Front Suspension

Introduction

Leaf Springs

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350 4-wheel drive leaf spring suspension

Click to enlarge

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

1. Raise the vehicle frame until the weight is off the front spring with the wheels still touching the

floor. Support the axle to prevent rotation.

2. Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the U-bolt spacer. Remove the U-bolts, Ubolt cap and spacer. On F-350 models, remove the 2 bolts retaining the track bar to the spring

cap and the track bar bracket.

3. Remove the nut from the hanger bolt retaining the spring at the rear and drive out the hanger

bolt.

4. Remove the nut connecting the front shackle and spring eye and drive out the shackle bolt and

remove the spring.

To install:

5. Position the spring on the spring seat. Install the shackle bolt through the shackle and spring.

Tighten the nuts to 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm).

6. Position the rear of the spring and install the hanger bolt. Tighten the nut to 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm).

7. Position the U-bolt spacer and place the U-bolts in position through the holes in the spring seat

cap. Install but do not tighten the U-bolt nut. On the F-350, install the track bar. Tighten the track

bar-to-bracket bolts to 200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm).

8. Connect the lower end of the shock absorber to the U-bolt spacer. Tighten the fasteners to 60 ft.

lbs. (81 Nm) on the F-250; 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on the F-350.

9. Lower the vehicle and tighten the U-bolt nuts to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm).

Shock Absorbers

TESTING

Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250HD/SD and F-350

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the nut/bolt retaining the shock to the upper bracket.

3. Remove the lower mounting bolt/nut from the bracket.

4. Compress the shock and remove it.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the upper and lower nut/bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

Knuckle and Spindle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Refer to Section 7 for the knuckle and spindle removal and installation.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and 1999-00 Super Duty Models

Front stabilizer bar installation—F-250HD 4-wheel drive models

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the bolts, washers and nuts securing the links to the spring seat caps. On models with

the Monobeam axle, remove the nut, washer and bolt securing the links to the mounting

brackets. Remove the nuts, washers and insulators connecting the links to the stabilizer bar.

Remove the links.

2. Unbolt and remove the retainers from the mounting brackets.

3. Remove the stabilizer bar.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the connecting links-to-spring seat caps to 70 ft.

lbs. (90 Nm). Tighten the nuts securing the connecting links to the stabilizer bar to 25 ft. lbs. (34

Nm). Tighten the retainer-to-mounting bracket nuts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).

1997-98 F-350

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the bolts, washers and nuts securing the stabilizer bar links to the spring seat caps.

3. Remove the nut, washer and bolt securing the stabilizer bar links to the stabilizer bar brackets.

4. Remove the nuts, washers and insulators attaching the stabilizer bar links to the stabilizer bar

and remove the stabilizer bar links.

5. Remove the stabilizer bar retainer bolts and remove the stabilizer bar retainers.

6. Remove the stabilizer bar.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Front Wheel Bearings

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Manual Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Refer to Manual Locking Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies.

3. On F-250 HD (Dana 50 axle) and F-350, use the hub nut tool to unscrew the outer locking nut.

Then, remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips

or a screwdriver. Use the lock-nut socket to remove the bearing adjusting nut.

4. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way.

5. Slide the hub and disc assembly off of the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the

hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it.

6. Lay the hub on a clean work surface. Carefully drive the inner bearing cone and grease seal out

of the hub using Tool T69L-1102-A, or equivalent.

To install:

7. Inspect the bearing cups for pits or cracks. If necessary, remove them with a drift. If new cups are

installed, install new bearings.

8. Lubricate the bearings with Multi-Purpose Lubricant Ford Specification, ESA-MIC7-B or

equivalent. Clean all old grease from the hub. Pack the cones and rollers. If a bearing packer is

not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and the cages.

9. Drive new cups into place with a driver, making sure that they are fully seated.

10. Position the inner bearing cone and roller in the inner cup and install the grease retainer.

11. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.

12. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut.

13. On the F-250 HD (Dana 50 axle) and F-350:

The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the

locking ring.

1. Using the hub nut socket and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68

Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.

2. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.

3. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin.

WARNING

The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing

adjustment and wheel retention!

4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 160-205 ft. lbs. (218-279 Nm). Final end play of the wheel

on the spindle should be 0-0.004 in. (0-0.15mm).

14. Assemble the hub parts.

15. Install the caliper.

16. Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle.

Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Remove the hub assemblies.

3. Using a socket made for that purpose, available at most auto parts stores, use the hub nut tool to

unscrew the outer locking nut.

4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a

screwdriver.

5. Use the lock-nut socket to remove the bearing adjusting nut.

6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way.

7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off of the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the

hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it.

8. Lay the hub on a clean work surface. Carefully drive the inner bearing cone and grease seal out

of the hub using Tool T69L-1102-A, or equivalent.

To install:

9. Inspect the bearing cups for pits or cracks. If necessary, remove them with a drift. If new cups are

installed, install new bearings.

10. Lubricate the bearings with Multi-Purpose Lubricant Ford Specification, ESA-MIC7-B or

equivalent. Clean all old grease from the hub. Pack the cones and rollers. If a bearing packer is

not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and the cages.

11. Drive new cups into place with a driver, making sure that they are fully seated.

12. Position the inner bearing cone and roller in the inner cup and install the grease retainer.

13. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.

14. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut.

The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the

locking ring.

15. Using the hub nut socket and a torque wrench, tighten the bearing adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68

Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.

16. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.

17. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin.

The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel

retention.

18. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 160-205 ft. lbs. (218-279 Nm). Final end play of the wheel

on the spindle should be 0-0.004 in. (0-0.15mm).

19. Assemble the hub parts.

20. Install the caliper.

21. Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle.

Wheel Alignment

Refer to wheel alignment under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

4-Wheel Drive Torsion Bar Front Suspension

Introduction

Torsion Bars

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Click to enlarge

The torsion bar adjusting bolt location

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Match mark and measure the length of the torsion bar being removed.

Torsion bars are marked for left-hand or right-hand installation. If removing both torsion

bars, make sure to reinstall in the correct position. If replacing a torsion bar, make sure

that it is the correct torsion bar for the side being replaced.

3. Install Torsion Bar Adjuster T95T-5310-A and Adapter Plates T96T-5310-A, or equivalents.

4. Tighten the adjuster tool until it touches the torsion bar adjuster.

5. Remove the torsion bar adjuster bolt and nut.

6. Remove 6 torsion bar crossmember retaining bolts.

7. Remove the crossmember support.

8. Remove the torsion bar from the vehicle.

To install:

9. Place the torsion bar in position ensuring that it is the correct torsion bar for the side being

installed.

10. Install the crossmember support and 6 retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs.

(53-72 Nm).

11. Install the torsion bar adjuster bolt and nut, then remove the torsion bar adjuster tool and

adapters.

12. Tighten the adjusting bolt until the match marks are in alignment.

13. Lower the vehicle.

14. Measure the ride height and adjust if necessary.

15. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

ADJUSTMENT

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

1. Place the vehicle on a level surface.

2. Bounce the front end to normalize the ride height.

3. Measure the ride height on both sides of the vehicle from the frame to the ground.

4. Loosen the lock nut and add or delete turns until the vehicle is level and at the correct curb

height.

5. Tighten the lock nut.

6. Road test the vehicle and recheck the measurements.

Shock Absorbers

TESTING

Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Hold the shock absorber stem and remove the nut, washer and bushing from the top of

the shock absorber stud

Remove the lower shock retaining nut and bolt

1. Hold the shock absorber stem and remove the nut, washer and bushing from the top of the shock

absorber stud.

2. Raise and support the vehicle.

3. Remove the lower retaining nut and bolt.

4. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

To install:

5. Install 1 washer and bushing to the top stem of the shock absorber.

6. Place the shock absorber up through the coil spring.

7. Install the lower retaining nut and bolt. Tighten to 57-77 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm).

8. Lower the vehicle.

9. Install the shock absorber upper bushing, washer and retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 22-29 ft.

lbs. (30-40 Nm).

10. Lower the vehicle.

11. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Upper Ball Joint

INSPECTION

Refer to upper ball joint inspection under 2-wheel drive coil spring suspension in this section.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

The upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and is not a serviceable component.

Replacement of the ball joint requires replacing the upper control arm assembly.

Lower Ball Joint

INSPECTION

Refer to upper ball joint inspection under 2-wheel drive coil spring suspension in this section.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

The lower ball joint is an integral part of the lower control arm and is not a serviceable component.

Replacement of the ball joint requires replacing the lower control arm.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Remove both stabilizer bar-to-stabilizer bar link retaining nuts, washers and bushings

and ...

... separate the stabilizer bar ends from the stabilizer bar links

Remove the stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms

Remove the stabilizer bar brackets

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove 6 retaining bolts and remove the skid plate.

4. Remove both stabilizer bar-to-stabilizer bar link retaining nuts, washers and bushings and

separate the stabilizer bar ends from the stabilizer bar links.

5. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the lower control arms, if needed.

6. Remove 4 bolts securing 2 stabilizer bar insulator brackets.

7. Remove the stabilizer bar brackets and the stabilizer bar.

8. Remove the stabilizer bar by rotating the bar as it is removed through the right-hand side of the

vehicle.

To install:

9. Place the stabilizer bar in position, rotating the bar as required for installation.

10. Install 2 stabilizer bar insulator brackets. Install 4 retaining bolts and tighten to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-

34 Nm).

11. Install the stabilizer bar links to the lower control arms, if removed.

12. Connect the stabilizer bar to the stabilizer bar links. Install the bushings, washers and retaining

nuts. Tighten the stabilizer bar link retaining nuts to 16-21 ft. lbs. (22-28 Nm).

13. Install the skid plate and 6 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10-13 ft. lbs. (14-17 Nm).

14. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

15. Lower the vehicle.

16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Upper Control Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

The upper control arm-to-body mounts

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Support the lower control arm with a transmission jack or equivalent adjustable jack.

4. Match mark the upper control arm adjusting cams.

5. If equipped with 4-wheel ABS, remove the speed sensor harness bracket bolt and position the

harness aside.

6. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the upper ball joint. Discard the cotter pin.

7. Using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F or equivalent, separate the ball joint from the wheel

spindle.

8. Remove 2 nuts and bolts securing the upper control arm to the body brackets.

9. Remove the upper control arm and ball joint assembly from the vehicle.

To install:

10. Align the match marks on the upper control arm adjusting cams.

11. Place the upper control arm in position to the body brackets and install 2 retaining bolts and

nuts. Do not tighten at this time.

12. Install the ball joint stud to the wheel spindle and install the castellated nut. Tighten the nut to 56-

77 ft. lbs. (76-104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.

13. Raise the lower control arm to position the control arms at normal curb height and tighten the

front upper control arm retaining nut first, to 84-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

14. With the vehicle still at curb height, tighten the rear upper control arm retaining nut to 84-112 ft.

lbs. (113-153 Nm).

15. Remove the transmission jack or equivalent from under the lower control arm.

16. If equipped with 4-wheel ABS brake system, position the speed sensor harness and install the

bracket bolt. Tighten the speed sensor bracket bolt to 62-80 inch lbs. (7-9 Nm).

17. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

18. Lower the vehicle.

19. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

20. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Lower Control Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

The lower control arm-to-body mounts

These vehicles require that the torsion bar tension be relieved before removing the lower

control arm. If either the lower control arm or lower ball joint require replacement, the

lower control arm and ball joint must be replaced as a unit.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Match mark and measure the length of the torsion bar being removed.

Torsion bars are marked for left-hand or right-hand installation. If removing both torsion

bars, make sure to reinstall in the correct position. If replacing a torsion bar, make sure

that it is the correct torsion bar for the side being replaced.

3. Install Torsion Bar Adjuster T95T-5310-A and Adapter Plates T96T-5310-A, or equivalents.

4. Tighten the adjuster tool until it touches the torsion bar adjuster.

5. Remove the torsion bar adjuster bolt and nut.

6. Remove 6 torsion bar crossmember retaining bolts.

7. Remove the crossmember support.

8. Remove the torsion bar from the vehicle.

9. If equipped with 4 wheel ABS disconnect the sensor wire bracket bolt.

10. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt.

11. Disconnect the lower control arm castle nut and cotter pin and separate the ball joint from the

steering knuckle.

12. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the lower control arm.

13. Remove the 2 lower control arm nuts and bolts.

14. Remove the lower arm and torsion bar.

To install:

15. Install the lower control arm and torsion bar. Tighten the bolts to 150 ft. lbs. (200 Nm).

16. Connect the lower ball joint and tighten the castle nut to 80-110 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

17. Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower control arm. tighten the nut to 16-21 ft. lbs. (22-28 Nm).

18. Place the torsion bar in position ensuring that it is the correct torsion bar for the side being

installed.

19. Install the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt. Tighten to 55-74 ft. lbs. (76-103 Nm).

20. Secure the ABS sensor bracket, if equipped.

21. Install the crossmember support and 6 retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 40-50 ft. lbs.

(53-72 Nm).

22. Install the torsion bar adjuster bolt and nut, then remove the torsion bar adjuster tool and

adapters.

23. Tighten the adjusting bolt until the match marks are in alignment.

24. Lower the vehicle.

25. Measure the ride height and adjust if necessary.

26. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

27. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Front Hub and Bearing

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

The 3 hub-to-knuckle retaining bolts

The wheel bearings are of the cartridge design and are an integral part of the hub assembly. The

bearing are permanently lubricated and require no maintenance or adjustments. If required, a new

hub assembly must be installed.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the disc brake caliper.

4. Remove the disc brake pads and anti-rattle clips.

5. Remove 2 anchor plate retaining bolts and remove the anchor plate.

6. Remove the disc brake rotor.

7. Remove 3 disc brake rotor shield retaining bolts and the shield.

8. If equipped with 4-wheel ABS, remove the speed sensor retaining bolt and move the speed

sensor and harness aside.

9. Remove the hub nut cotter pin, retainer and the hub nut. Discard the cotter pin.

10. Remove 3 hub assembly retaining bolts from the inside of the steering knuckle.

11. Push the CV-joint inward and remove the hub assembly.

If necessary, use a suitable puller to separate the hub assembly from the CV-joint. Use care

not to over extend the CV-joint and boot when removing the hub assembly.

12. If required, remove the grease seal from the steering knuckle.

To install:

13. If removed, install a new grease seal with Seal Installer T96T-1175-A, Drawbar T77F-1176-A and

Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P, or equivalents.

14. Install the hub assembly to the steering knuckle and secure with 3 retaining bolts. Tighten the

bolts to 110-145 ft. lbs. (149-201 Nm).

15. Align the splines, then push the CV-joint into the hub assembly.

16. If equipped with 4-wheel ABS, install the speed sensor and secure with 1 retaining bolt. Tighten

the bolt to 60-84 inch lbs. (7-9 Nm).

17. Install the disc brake rotor shield and 3 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 80-107 inch lbs. (9-12

Nm).

18. Install the hub nut and tighten to 188-254 ft. lbs. 255-345 Nm).

19. Install the hub nut retainer and a new cotter pin.

20. Install the disc brake rotor.

21. Place the anchor plate in position and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 125-168 ft. lbs.

(170-230 Nm).

22. Install the brake pad anti-rattle clips and install the disc brake pads.

23. Install the disc brake caliper.

24. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

25. Lower the vehicle.

26. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads prior to moving the vehicle.

27. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

Wheel Alignment

Refer to wheel alignment under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Standard Rear Suspension

Introduction

Click to enlarge

Coil Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Expedition and Navigator

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the rear driveshaft. Refer to Section 7 .

4. Disconnect the rear Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor electrical connector.

Make sure the parking brake control is fully released.

5. Pull the front parking brake cable and conduit.

6. Insert a suitable retainer into the parking brake control.

7. Disconnect the rear parking brake cable and conduit from the rear axle.

8. Remove the rear parking brake cable and conduit from the rear axle bracket assembly.

9. Remove the cable from the caliper.

10. Repeat for the other side.

11. Remove the disc brake caliper bolts.

12. Remove and secure the caliper aside with wire.

13. Repeat for the other side.

14. Disconnect the axle vent tube.

15. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the rear axle.

16. Remove the bolts from each stabilizer bar retainer.

17. Remove the retainers.

18. Use a suitable jack to support the rear axle.

19. Remove the lower shock absorber nut and bolt.

20. Repeat for the other side.

21. Remove the rear axle-to-trackbar assembly bolt.

22. Remove the rear suspension lower arm assembly-to-axle bolt.

23. Repeat for the other side.

24. Remove the rear suspension upper arm assembly-to-rear axle bolt.

25. Repeat for the other side.

26. Lower the rear axle and remove the coil spring.

To install:

Do not tighten any nuts or bolts until the rear suspension is raised so that the rear

suspension lower arms are parallel to the ground. Once in position, tighten all the nuts and

bolts to specification.

27. Install the rear coil spring.

28. Position the rear suspension upper arm assemblies to the axle and install the bolts.

29. Position the rear suspension lower arm assemblies to the axle and install the bolts.

30. Position the trackbar assembly to the axle and install the bolts.

31. Position the shock absorbers to the axle and install the bolts.

32. Position the stabilizer bar to the axle and install the stabilizer bar retainers and bolts.

33. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.

34. Connect the parking brake cables and conduit to the axle.

35. Install the parking brake cable and conduit to the lever.

36. Install the parking brake cable and conduit to the rear axle bracket assembly.

37. Install the tire and wheel assembly.

38. Position the tire and wheel assembly.

39. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.

40. Tighten the lug nuts in sequence.

41. Install the wheel cover.

42. Remove the pin from the parking brake control assembly.

43. Connect the rear Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor electrical connector.

44. Connect the axle vent tube.

45. Install the driveshaft. Refer to Section 7 .

46. Lower the vehicle.

Leaf Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Rear spring installation for F-250HD, F-350 2-wheel Chassis Cab with Dana axles

Click to enlarge

Rear spring installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

Semi-elliptic, leaf type springs are used at the rear axle. The front end of the spring is attached to a

spring bracket on the frame side member. The rear end of the spring is attached to the bracket on

the frame side member with a shackle. Each spring is attached to the axle with two U-bolts. A spacer

is located between the spring and the axle on some applications to obtain a level ride position.

1. Raise the vehicle by the frame until the weight is off the rear spring with the tires still on the floor.

2. Remove the nuts from the spring U-bolts and drive the U-bolts from the U-bolt plate. Remove the

auxiliary spring and spacer, if so equipped.

3. Remove the spring-to-bracket nut and bolt at the front of the spring.

4. Remove the upper and lower shackle nuts and bolts at the rear of the spring and remove the

spring and shackle assembly from the rear shackle bracket.

5. If the bushings in the spring or shackle are worn or damaged, install new bushings.

To install:

When installing the components, snug down the fasteners. Don't apply final torque to the

fasteners until the vehicle is back on the ground.

6. Position the spring in the shackle and install the upper shackle-to-spring nut and bolt with the

bolt head facing outward.

7. Position the front end of the spring in the bracket and install the nut and bolt.

8. Position the shackle in the rear bracket and install the nut and bolt.

9. Position the spring on top of the axle with the spring center bolts centered in the hole provided in

the seat. Install the auxiliary spring and spacer, if so equipped.

10. Install the spring U-bolts, plate and nuts.

11. Lower the vehicle to the floor and tighten the attaching hardware as follows:

U-bolts nuts:

F-250 HD and F-350—150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)

F-Super Duty chassis/cab—200-270 ft. lbs. (272-367 Nm)

F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis—220-300 ft. lbs. (300-408 Nm)

Spring to front spring hanger:

F-250HD 2WD, F-350 2WD —150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)

F-250HD, 350 4WD—150-175 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)

F-Super Duty—255-345 ft. lbs. (346-469 Nm)

Spring to rear spring hanger:

All except F-250 and F-350 2WD Chassis Cab—75-115 ft. lbs. (102-156 Nm)

F-250 and F-350 2WD Chassis Cab; F-Super Duty—150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)

F-150 and F-250

The leaf spring U-bolts and spring plate, remove the four retaining nuts

Remove the leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt and nut

Remove the leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Support the axle housing with a transmission jack, or equivalent.

4. Remove 4 retaining nuts from the leaf spring U-bolts.

5. Remove 2 U-bolts and the spring plate. On 4x4 models, remove the spring spacer.

6. Carefully lower the axle housing to allow enough clearance for leaf spring removal.

7. Remove the leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt and nut.

8. Remove the leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut.

9. Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.

To install:

10. Place the leaf spring in position.

11. Install 1 leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut and 1 leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt

and nut. Tighten both bolt and nut assemblies to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

12. Raise the axle housing to align with the leaf spring.

13. Install the leaf spring plate, 2 U-bolts and 4 U-bolt retaining nuts. On 4x4 vehicles, install the

spring spacer. Tighten the U-bolt retaining nuts to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).

14. Remove the transmission jack, or equivalent.

15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

16. Lower the vehicle.

17. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Position jack stands under the axle housing.

4. Remove the shock absorber.

WARNING

Never reuse U-bolts. The U-bolts are a torque-to-yield design and

cannot be retightened. Failure to use a new U-bolt can result in loose

or broken springs and suspension components.

5. Remove the two U-bolts and the front spring spacer. Discard the U-bolts.

6. Disconnect the front driveshaft.

7. Remove the nut and bolt and position the spring shackle away from the spring.

8. Disconnect the spring hanger nut and bolt.

9. Using a hammer, tap the spring until the spring is free from the hanger bracket.

10. Remove the spring from the vehicle.

To install:

11. Position the spring in the vehicle.

12. Install the spring into the spring hanger.

13. Position the spring into the hanger.

14. Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.

15. Install the spring into the spring shackle.

16. Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.

The U-bolts insert through the front spring cap on the left hand side and through the axle

assembly bracket on the right hand side.

17. Position the front spring spacer and the new U-bolts.

18. Install the four nuts. Do not tighten the nuts at this time.

19. Install the shock, bolt and nut onto the spring cap.

The suspension must be loaded with the weight of the vehicle before the U-bolts and the

leaf spring mounting bolts can be tightened.

20. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the front suspension is supporting the weight of the

vehicle.

The U-bolts must be tightened in a criss-cross sequence. This will tighten the U-bolts

evenly.

21. Tighten the U-bolts in a criss-cross sequence.

22. Tighten the leaf spring rear retaining bolt and nut.

23. Tighten the leaf spring front retaining bolt and nut.

24. Raise the vehicle and remove the jack stands.

25. Install the front driveshaft.

26. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

27. Lower the vehicle.

Shock Absorbers

TESTING

Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Support the axle housing with a jackstand

The upper shock mount location—F-150

Hold the upper shock absorber shaft and remove the upper retaining nut, washer and

bushing

The lower shock mounting retaining bolt and but

Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Support the axle housing with a jackstand, or equivalent.

4. Hold the upper shock absorber shaft and remove the upper retaining nut, washer and bushing.

5. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt.

6. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Track Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Expedition and Navigator

CAUTION

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in

the PASSENGER SIDE kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in

unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result

in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

WARNING

The air suspension height sensor has a plastic harness retainer to

suspension that must be unclipped prior to removal.

2. Detach the air suspension height sensor electrical connector.

3. Depress the metal retaining tabs and remove the air suspension height sensor from the ball

studs.

4. Remove the passenger side trackbar bolt.

5. Remove the driver's side trackbar nut and bolt.

6. Remove the trackbar from the vehicle.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Rear stabilizer—F-250 and F-350 models with Ford rear axles

Click to enlarge

Rear stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab models

Click to enlarge

Rear stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the nuts from the lower ends of the stabilizer bar link.

2. Remove the outer washers and insulators.

3. Disconnect the bar from the links.

4. Remove the inner insulators and washers.

5. Unbolt the link from the frame.

6. Remove the U-bolts, brackets and retainers.

To Install:

7. Replace all worn or cracked rubber parts. Coat all new rubber parts with silicone grease.

8. Assemble all parts loosely and make sure the bar assembly is centered before tightening the

fasteners. Observe the following torque figures:

Stabilizer bar-to-axle nut—30-45 ft. lbs. (40-61 Nm)

Stabilizer bar-to-axle bolt—30-47 ft. lbs. (40-64 Nm)

Link bracket-to-frame nut (4WD)—30-42 ft. lbs. (40-57 Nm)

Link-to-bracket nut (4WD)—60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)

Link-to-frame nut (2WD)—60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)

Stabilizer bar-to-link—15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm)

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in

the PASSENGER SIDE kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in

unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result

in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

WARNING

Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the stabilizer bar link nut.

2. Remove the stabilizer bar link bolt and the stabilizer bar link.

3. Remove the stabilizer bar retainer bolts.

4. Remove the stabilizer bar retainers and the stabilizer bar.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the nuts from both lower ends of the stabilizer bar links and remove the washers.

3. Remove the nuts and washers from both upper ends of the stabilizer bar links-to-frame and

remove the links.

4. Remove the nuts from both stabilizer bar retainer-to-axle brackets and remove the stabilizer bar

retainers, stabilizer bar mounting brackets, U-bolts and the stabilizer bar.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Full Floating Rear Axle Bearings

REMOVAL, REPACKING AND INSTALLATION

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do.

Remember to DO the following:

Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.

Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.

Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.

Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.

Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.

Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.

Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.

Use clean rags to wipe bearings.

Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.

Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.

Do NOT do the following:

Don't work in dirty surroundings.

Don't use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.

Try not to work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.

Don't handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.

Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent.

Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.

Do not spin dirty bearings.

Avoid using cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.

Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces.

Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.

F-250HD and F-350 Models

Rear wheel hub showing wedge positioning—F-350 4X2 with dual rear wheels shown

Click to enlarge

The wheel bearings on the Ford 10 1 /

2

in. full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease.

Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the

primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the

bearings during normal operation.

The wheel bearings on the full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant

can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary

lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings

during normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.

2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the

axle is parallel with the floor.

3. Remove the wheels.

4. Remove the brake drums.

5. Remove the axle shaft bolts.

6. Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.

7. With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.

8. Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the

slots in the hub nut.

The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub.

The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these

nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

9. Remove the hub nut.

10. Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.

11. Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the

puller and step plate.

12. Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.

13. Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.

14. Lift out the inner bearing.

15. Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.

16. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.

17. Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear

patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way

damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.

18. Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the

races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated

is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the

shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race.

Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!

19. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in Section 1

for the front wheel bearings on 2-Wheel Drive trucks.

20. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.

When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

21. Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver

such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.

If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

22. Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a

predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.

23. Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.

24. Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.

25. Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you

packed the inner bearing.

26. Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.

27. Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the keyway prior to

thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the

thread direction.

28. Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub

occasionally during nut tightening.

29. Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!

30. Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.

31. Install the axle shaft.

32. Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do

not tighten them with a wrench at this time!

33. Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum.

Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.

34. Install the brake drum

35. Install the wheel.

36. Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove

the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.

37. Lower the truck to the floor.

38. Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).

39. Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Torque them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm).

F-Super Duty, Stripped Chassis and Motor Home Chassis

Tightening the hub nut

Click to enlarge

Installing the rear wheel bearings and seal

Click to enlarge

Hub nut installation

Click to enlarge

Tightening the hub nut

Click to enlarge

The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can

also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant.

The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during

normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the axle shaft bolts.

2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the

axle is parallel with the floor. The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake.

3. Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.

4. Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel

bearings.

5. Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).

6. Remove the brake caliper (see Section 9 ).

7. Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.

The hub nuts for both sides are right-hand thread and marked RH.

8. Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.

9. With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the

inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.

10. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.

11. Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear

patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.

12. If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with

a block of wood and hammer or press them in.

13. If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between

the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to

make sure the cups are squarely seated.

14. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner previously outlined for

the front wheel bearings on 2WD trucks. Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.

15. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the

hub with a seal installation tool.

16. Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take

care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.

17. Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the

keyway prior to threading.

18. Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel.

The hub will ratchet at torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool

No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.

19. Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° (

1

/

4

turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).

20. Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.

21. Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or

if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.

22. Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt

threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.

23. Install the caliper.

24. Install the wheels.

25. Lower the truck to the ground.

26. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.

27. Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Air Suspension

Introduction

Click to enlarge

The rear sir suspension system is an available option on the F-250, Expedition and Navigator. The 4wheel air suspension system is an available option on the Expedition and Navigator. Every component

is nearly identical, except for air shocks, which are only equipped on the 4-wheel air suspension

system.

Air Compressor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the windshield washer reservoir.

WARNING

Before repairing any air suspension components, disconnect power to

the system by turning off the air suspension switch located in the

passenger side kick panel area to prevent vehicle damage or personal

injury.

2. Turn the air suspension switch to the OFF position.

3. Disconnect the air line tube to the air compressor drier by depressing the red ring. Remove the

air line.

4. Detach the air compressor electrical connector.

5. Remove the air compressor bracket bolts.

6. Remove the air compressor.

To install:

When installing the air lines make sure the white air line is fully inserted into the fitting for

correct installation.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Air Compressor Drier

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air compressor. Refer to the procedure in this section.

3. Remove the air compressor drier retaining screw and rotate 90° to unlock then remove the air

compressor drier.

To install:

Inspect the O-ring for damage and replace as necessary. Lubricate the solenoid seal area

with Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331A or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.

When installing the air lines, make sure the white air line is fully inserted into the fitting for

correct installation.

Ride height adjustments must be performed after the air compressor/drier is installed.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Control Module

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument cluster panel. Refer to Section 6 .

3. Remove the front control module mounting bracket screw.

4. Remove the rear control module mounting bracket screw.

5. Lift the control module and mounting bracket from the instrument panel and detach the control

module electrical connectors.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Height Sensor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in

the passenger side kick panel area. Failure to do so may result in

unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs which may result

in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Detach the air suspension height sensor electrical connector.

3. Depress the metal retaining tabs and remove the air suspension height sensor.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Air Spring

PRECAUTIONS

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or

towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension

switch located in the PASSENGER SIDE kick panel area. Failure to do so may result in

unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs which may result in shifting of the vehicle

during these operations.

Do not attempt to install or inflate any air spring that has become unfolded to prevent vehicle

damage or personal injury.

Do not attempt to inflate any air spring which has collapsed while deflated from the rebound

hanging position to the jounce stop.

When installing a new air spring, care must be taken to not apply a load to the suspension until

the air springs have been inflated using the air spring fill procedure.

After inflating an air spring in the hanging position, it must be inspected for proper shape.

Do not remove an air spring under any circumstances when there is pressure in the air spring. Do

not remove any components supporting an air spring without either exhausting the air or

providing support for the air spring to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

The vehicle must be positioned on a suitable lifting device prior to deflating the air

suspension system.

1. Access the air suspension diagnostic connector behind the PASSENGER SIDE cowl side trim

panel.

New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester can be used to emulate Superstar II Tester.

2. Turn the air suspension switch to the ON position and the ignition to the key on engine off

(KOEO) position. Use Super STAR II Tester plugged into the air suspension diagnostic connector

to perform the function test. Set Super STAR II Tester to the EEC-IV/MCU mode; also set it to the

FAST mode. Press Super STAR II Tester button to the TEST position; DTC 10 will be displayed.

Within two minutes, DTC 12 or 13 will be displayed. After DTC 12 or 13 is displayed, release the

Super STAR II Tester button from the HOLD position. Wait at least 20 seconds and then press the

Super STAR II Tester button to the TEST position. Within 10 seconds, the following DTCs will be

displayed in order:

23 Vent Right Rear Air Spring

24 Vent Left Rear Air Spring

25 Vent Both Rear Air Springs

26 Compress Right Rear Air Spring

27 Compress Left Rear Air Spring

28 Compress Both Rear Air Springs

31 Cycle Compressor On and Off

32 Cycle Vent Solenoid Valve Open and Closed

33 Cycle Spring Solenoid Valves Open and Closed

3. Disconnect Super STAR II Tester after deflation is completed.

4. Within four seconds after DTC 23, 24 or 25 is displayed, depending on which air spring is to be

deflated, release the Super STAR II Tester to the HOLD position. After deflation, turn the ignition

to the OFF position.

5. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

6. Remove the air line from the solenoid valve by depressing the red plastic retaining ring and pull

the air line out of the solenoid.

7. Detach the solenoid valve electrical connector and position it aside.

8. Remove the retaining clip from the top of the air spring.

9. Compress the deflated air spring and remove it from the vehicle.

To install:

WARNING

Any air spring which is unfolded must be refolded prior to being

installed in a vehicle.

10. Position the air spring into place and install the retaining clip at the top of the air spring.

11. Seat bottom of the air spring on the rear axle.

12. Connect the solenoid valve electrical connector.

When installing the air lines make sure the white air line is fully inserted into the fitting for

correct installation.

13. Connect the air line into the solenoid valve line fitting.

14. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.

15. Turn the air suspension switch to the ON position.

Inflation will start after 45 seconds.

16. Turn the ignition to the key on engine off (KOEO) position until the air springs are inflated to trim

height.

17. Visually inspect each air spring to make sure the correct profile has been obtained. There should

be no evidence of buckling or folding of the air springs.

Solenoid Valve—Functional

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the air spring. Refer to the procedure in this section.

WARNING

Remove any dirt or other debris from the air spring prior to removing

the solenoid valve from the air spring.

2. Remove the metal retaining clip from the solenoid valve.

3. Inspect the solenoid O-rings and replace as necessary.

4. Twist the solenoid valve and remove.

Be sure the new air spring solenoid is fully seated into both stages of the air spring. Lightly

apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to the O-rings. When installing the air lines,

make sure the white air line is fully inserted into the fitting for correct installation.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Solenoid Valve—Non-Functional

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING

Do not remove an air spring under any circumstances when there is

pressure in the air spring. Do not remove any components supporting

an air spring without either exhausting the air or providing support

for the air spring to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the air line from the solenoid valve by depressing the red plastic retaining ring and pull

the air line out of the solenoid.

3. Detach the solenoid valve electrical connector.

WARNING

Remove any dirt or other debris from the air spring prior to removing

the solenoid valve from the air spring.

4. Remove the solenoid valve clip.

5. Hold the solenoid body from the side and rotate the solenoid valve out of the air spring to the

first detent to release the air from the assembly.

6. Remove the retaining clip from the top of the air spring.

7. Compress the deflated air spring and remove it from the vehicle.

8. Remove the solenoid valve.

Be sure the new air spring solenoid is fully seated into both stages of the air spring. Check

the solenoid valve O-rings for abrasion or cuts. Replace O-rings as required using air

spring connector repair kit. Lightly apply Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric

Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to the

O-rings.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Air Shocks

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING

The vehicle must be positioned on a suitable lifting device prior to

deflating the air suspension system.

1. Deflate the air suspension system

2. Raise and support the vehicle.

3. On driver's side air shock removal only, disconnect the top of the front height sensor from the

upper frame bracket.

4. Remove the air shock lower nut and bolt.

5. Disconnect the air spring solenoid air line by compressing the quick connect locking ring and

pulling out the air line.

6. Remove the air shock upper nut, grommet, and the air shock.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Steering

Steering Wheel

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the air bag module retaining bolt covers

Remove the air bag module retaining bolts

Lift the air bag module from the steering wheel and ...

... detach the connectors on the air bag module and remove the module

Always carry a live air bag module with the bag and trim cover facing away from your

body

Always place an air bag module on a table or other flat surface with the bag and trim

cover pointing up

Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt and ...

... install a suitable puller onto the steering wheel to remove the wheel

CAUTION

The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system must be disarmed

before performing service around SIR system components or SIR

system wiring. Failure to do so may cause accidental deployment of

the air bag, resulting in unnecessary SIR system repairs and/or

personal injury.

Before proceeding, make sure that a new steering wheel retaining bolt is available. Once

removed the bolt loses its torque holding ability or retention capability and must not be

reused.

1. Make sure that the front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).

3. Wait at least 1 minute before proceeding with the service procedure. This is the time required for

the backup power supply to deplete its stored energy.

4. Remove the air bag module retaining bolt covers.

5. Remove air bag module retaining bolts and lift the air bag module from the steering wheel.

6. Detach the air bag sliding contact, horn and if equipped, the speed control electrical harness

connectors and remove the air bag module.

CAUTION

When carrying a live air bag, make sure the air bag and trim cover

are pointed away from the body. In the unlikely event of an

accidental deployment, the bag will then deploy with minimal chance

if injury. When placing a live air bag on a bench or other surface,

always face the bag and trim cover up, away from the surface. This

will reduce the motion of the module if it is accidentally deployed.

7. Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt and discard.

8. Install Steering Wheel Puller T67-3600-A or equivalent and loosen the steering wheel from the

steering column shaft.

9. Remove the steering wheel while routing the wires from the air bag sliding contact through the

steering wheel.

To install:

If a new air bag sliding contact is being installed, remove the plastic lock tool after the

intermediate shaft is connected to the steering gear.

10. Make sure the vehicle's front wheels are in the straight-ahead position.

11. Route the air bag sliding contact wire harness through the steering wheel opening at the three

o'clock position. Position the steering wheel on the steering shaft so that the alignment marks

on the wheel and shaft are aligned. Be sure the air bag sliding contact wiring is not pinched.

12. Install a new steering wheel retaining bolt and tighten the bolt to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-48 Nm) on the

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty and to 23-32 ft. lbs. (31-44 Nm) on all other models.

13. Connect the wire connectors for the horn, speed control and air bag module then position the air

bag module on the steering wheel. Install and tighten the 4 air bag module retaining nuts to 35-50

inch lbs. (4.0-5.6 Nm) on 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models. Tighten the two air

bag module retaining screws to 89-115 inch lbs. (10-13 Nm) on all other models.

14. Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.

15. Prove out the air bag system by turning the ignition key to the RUN position and visually

monitoring the air bag indicator lamp in the instrument cluster. The indicator lamp should

illuminate for approximately 6 seconds and then turn off. If the indicator lamp does not

illuminate, stays on, or flashes at any time, a fault has been detected by the air bag diagnostic

monitor.

16. Check the steering wheel, horn and steering column for proper operation.

17. Road test the vehicle and check the speed control for proper operation.

Multi-Function Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the 4 retaining screws from the lower column shroud and remove the upper and lower

shrouds.

3. Remove the 2 retaining screws from the multi-function switch and unplug the 2 wiring

connectors.

4. Remove the switch.

To install:

5. Install the multi-function switch.

6. Tighten the 2 retaining screws and attach the 2 electrical connectors.

7. Install the upper and lower column shrouds. Tighten the 4 retaining screws.

8. Connect the negative battery cable.

F-150, F-250, Expedition, Navigator and 1999-00 Super Duty Models

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position and push the lock cylinder release pin with a

suitable punch while ...

... pulling out the lock cylinder

Remove 3 steering column shroud retaining screws and ...

... remove the upper and ...

... lower steering column shrouds

Remove the switch retaining screws, lift the switch assembly up and ...

... detach the switch electrical connectors to remove the switch

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the ignition key and tumbler as follows:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.

2. Push the lock cylinder release pin with a suitable punch

while pulling out the lock cylinder.

3. If equipped, twist off the tilt wheel handle and remove.

4. Remove 3 steering column shroud retaining screws and remove the upper and lower shrouds.

5. Remove 2 self-tapping screws that retain the combination switch to the steering column casting.

Disengage the switch from the casting.

6. Detach the electrical connectors, being careful not to damage the locking tabs and the shift

position indicator cable.

To install:

7. Connect the combination switch electrical harness connectors ensuring that the connectors are

fully engaged. The wiring for the switch is to be routed under the shift position indicator cable.

8. Install the combination switch with 2 self-tapping screws. Tighten to 19-25 inch lbs. (2-3 Nm).

9. Install the upper and lower steering column shrouds. Install the retaining screws and tighten to 9

inch lbs. (1 Nm).

10. If equipped, install the tilt wheel handle ad tighten to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).

11. Install the ignition key and tumbler assembly.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

13. Check the steering column and combination switch for proper operation.

Ignition Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the steering column shroud and lower the steering column.

3. Detach the ignition switch electrical harness connector.

4. Remove 2 nuts retaining the ignition switch to the steering column housing.

5. Lift the ignition switch upward to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove the

switch.

To install:

When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column

and the switch itself must be in theLOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the

mechanical parts of the column in the LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with

automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to the

LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already

pinned in the LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of

the switch.

6. Engage the actuator rod in the ignition switch.

7. Place the ignition switch on the steering column housing and loosely install 2 retaining nuts.

8. Move the switch up or down along the column to locate the mid-position of the actuator rod lash,

then tighten the retaining nuts to 47-64 inch lbs. (5-7 Nm).

9. Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Install steering column shroud.

10. Connect the negative battery cable.

11. Remove the locking pin, connect the battery cable, and verify that the engine will only crank in

PARK and NEUTRAL.Also check to make certain that the start circuit cannot be actuated in the

DRIVE and REVERSE positions.

Ignition Lock Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

With Functional Lock Cylinder

Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position and push the lock cylinder release pin with a

suitable punch while ...

... pulling out the lock cylinder

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Detach the key warning chime connector.

3. Turn the key to the RUN position.

4. Place a

1

/

8

in. wire, pin, or small drift punch into the upper steering column shroud under the lock

cylinder. Depress the retaining pin while pulling the lock cylinder out of the column housing.

To install:

5. Install the lock cylinder by turning the key to the RUN position and depressing the retaining clip.

6. Insert the lock cylinder until it is fully seated and aligned with the interlocking washer.

7. Turn the key to the OFF position, allowing the retaining pin to properly seat.

8. Install the 2 shroud halves and retaining screws.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

10. Check for proper starting in PARK and NEUTRAL.

Non-Functional Lock Cylinder

Drilling out the lock retaining pin

Click to enlarge

Breaking the cap away from the lock cylinder

Click to enlarge

This procedure should be used when the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or

broken key, or damage to the cylinder prohibiting the insertion of a new key.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION

Follow the proper procedure to disarm the air bag, if equipped.

2. Remove the horn assembly or air bag.

3. Remove the steering wheel.

4. Remove the air bag clockspring, if equipped with air bag.

5. With a pair of pliers, twist the cap off the lock cylinder.

6. Through the access hole in the lower column shroud, use a small center punch and then with an

1

/

8

in. drill bit, drill out the retaining clip. Be careful not to drill deeper than

1

/

2

in.

7. Using a

3

/

8

in. drill bit, drill down the middle of the lock cylinder about 1

3

/

4

inches until the

cylinder breaks away from the housing.

8. Remove the lock cylinder and clean out all metal shavings from the housing. Inspect the housing

and replace if damaged.

To install:

9. Install the lock drive gear, washer and retainer, if necessary.

10. Install the lock cylinder by turning the key to the RUN position and depressing the retaining clip.

11. Insert the lock cylinder until it is fully seated and aligned with the interlocking washer.

12. Turn the key to the OFF position. this allows the retaining pin to properly seat.

13. Connect the key warning chime electrical connector.

14. Install the air bag clockspring if equipped with an air bag. Make sure that the clockspring is

properly aligned.

15. Install the steering wheel.

16. Install the air bag or horn assembly, as equipped.

17. Connect the negative battery cable.

18. Check for proper starting in PARK and NEUTRAL.

Steering Linkage

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350

Click to enlarge

Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

Pitman Arm

Steering linkage for F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis

Click to enlarge

Pitman arm removal

Click to enlarge

EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.

2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.

3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.

4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.

5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.

6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm.

Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to

50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to

align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.

2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.

3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.

4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft.

To install:

5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on

easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE

SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!

6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).

7. Connect the drag link.

Drag Link

EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.

2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.

3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.

4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the

nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the

nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.

6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.

3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.

4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.

5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link

from the adjuster.

To install:

6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of

turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position

during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid

wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to

40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).

7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.

3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two

with a tie rod end remover.

4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove

the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted

during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102

Nm).

6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends

F-250HD/SD, F-350 and F-SUPERDUTY

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Place the front wheels in a straight-ahead position.

3. If necessary, remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod end at the wheel spindle or steering

knuckle, as equipped. Discard the cotter pin.

5. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamps.

6. Using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F, or equivalent, separate the tie rod end

7. Remove the tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve. Count and record the number of turns required

to remove the tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve for installation reference.

To install:

8. Install the tie rod end to the adjusting sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal.

Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position and do not to rub or bind against

the frame or steering components.

9. Keep the wheels straight ahead and install the tie rod end stud into the wheel spindle or steering

knuckle, as equipped. Install the castellated nut and tighten to 51-73 ft. lbs. (70-100 Nm), then

continue to tighten the castellated nut as needed to install a new cotter pin.

10. Tighten the adjusting sleeve clamp nuts to 30-42 ft. lbs. (40-57 Nm).

11. If removed, install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

12. Lower the vehicle.

13. Check the alignment and adjust if not within specification.

14. Road test the vehicle and check for proper steering system operation.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

The tie rod end is attached to the steering knuckle by a nut and cotter pin

Remove the cotter pin and the ...

... castellated nut on the tie rod end

attach a suitable puller to the tie rod end and ...

... tighten down the forcing screw until ...

... tie rod end pops up out of the knuckle

Loosen the outer tie rod end jam nut and ...

... remove the tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve

Count the threads showing on the tie rod end and ...

... note it on the tie rod end for reassembly

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Match mark the outer tie rod end to the adjusting sleeve and inner tie rod end for assembly

reference.

4. Remove the outer tie rod end cotter pin and castellated nut. Discard the cotter pin.

5. Using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F or equivalent, separate the tie rod end from the wheel

spindle or knuckle, as equipped.

6. Loosen the outer tie rod end jam nut. Turn the tie rod end and remove counting the amount of

turns for assembly reference.

To install:

7. Install the new outer tie rod end by threading it into the adjusting sleeve the same amount of

turns as the one removed. Do not tighten the jam nut at this point.

8. Connect the outer tie rod end to the wheel spindle or knuckle, as equipped. Install the castellated

nut and tighten to 55-75 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.

9. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

10. Lower the vehicle.

11. Check the toe adjustment and adjust if out of specification.

12. Tighten the tie rod end jam nut to 55-75 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm).

13. Road test the vehicle and check the steering system for proper operation.

Inner Tie Rod End

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Match mark the inner tie rod end to the adjusting sleeve for assembly reference.

4. Remove the inner tie rod end cotter pin and castellated nut. Discard the cotter pin.

5. Using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F or equivalent, separate the inner tie rod end from the drag

link.

6. Loosen the jam nut. Turn the inner tie rod end and remove counting the amount of turns for

assembly reference.

To install:

7. Install the new inner tie rod end by threading it into the sleeve the same amount of turns as the

one removed. Do not tighten the jam nut at this point.

8. Connect the inner tie rod end to the drag link and install the castellated nut. Tighten the nut to 55-

75 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.

9. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

10. Lower the vehicle.

11. Check the toe adjustment and adjust if out of specification.

12. Tighten the inner tie rod end jam nut to 55-75 ft. lbs. (77-104 Nm).

13. Road test the vehicle and check the steering system for proper operation.

Power Steering Gear

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Except Stripped Chassis and Motorhome

Removal/installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Except Stripped

Chassis and Motorhome

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.

3. Place a drain pan under the gear and disconnect the pressure and return lines. Cap the openings.

4. Remove the splash shield from the flex coupling.

5. Disconnect the flex coupling at the gear.

6. Matchmark and remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft.

7. Support the steering gear and remove the mounting bolts.

8. Remove the steering gear. It may be necessary to work it free of the flex coupling.

To install:

9. Place the splash shield on the steering gear lugs.

10. Slide the flex coupling into place on the steering shaft. Make sure the steering wheel spokes are

still horizontal.

11. Center the steering gear input shaft with the indexing flat facing downward.

12. Slide the steering gear input shaft into the flex coupling and into place on the frame side rail.

Install the flex coupling bolt and torque it to 30-42 ft. lbs. (41-57 Nm).

13. Install the gear mounting bolts and torque them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

14. Make sure that the wheels are still straight-ahead and install the Pitman arm. Tighten the nut to

170-288 ft. lbs. (230-390 Nm).

15. Connect the pressure, then, the return lines. Tighten the pressure line to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).

16. Snap the flex coupling shield into place.

17. Fill the steering reservoir.

18. Run the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times to expel air. Check for

leaks.

1997-98 F-Super Duty Stripped Chassis and Motorhomes

Steering gear installation on F-Super Duty motor home chassis models

Click to enlarge

Steering gear installation on F-Super Duty stripped chassis models

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Thoroughly clean all connections.

3. Place a drain pan under the area.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic lines at the gear. Cap all openings at once.

5. Remove the retaining bolt and nut and disconnect the Pitman arm from the sector shaft.

6. Remove the bolt and nut securing the input shaft and U-joint.

7. Support the gear and remove the gear-to-frame bolts and nuts.

To install:

8. Position the gear on the frame and install the bolts and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 150-200 ft. lbs.

(203-271 Nm).

9. Install the U-joint bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to 50-70 ft. lbs. (68-95 Nm).

10. Install the Pitman arm.

CAUTION

Never hammer the Pitman shaft onto the sector shaft! Hammering will

damage the gear. Use a cold chisel to separate the Pitman arm

opening.

11. Install the bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).

12. Connect the hydraulic lines, fill the reservoir, run the engine and check for leaks.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. If equipped, remove 6 retaining bolts securing the skid plate and remove the skid plate.

3. Remove 3 screws and 5 push clips retaining the lower radiator air deflector and remove.

4. Remove the pitman arm (steering sector shaft arm) cotter pin and castellated nut from the drag

link.

5. Using Pitman Arm Puller T65P-3590-F or equivalent, separate the pitman arm from the drag link.

6. Remove the dust cover from the steering shaft valve housing.

7. Remove the intermediate shaft pinch bolt and slide the shaft off the steering gear input shaft.

8. Disconnect the power steering pressure hoses at the steering gear.

9. Remove 3 steering gear-to-frame rail retaining bolts and remove the steering gear.

10. If replacing or servicing the steering gear, match mark the sector shaft arm to the sector shaft

and remove the steering gear sector shaft arm retaining nut and lock washer. Remove the sector

shaft arm using Pitman Arm Puller T65P-3590-F, or equivalent.

To install:

11. If removed, install the steering gear sector shaft arm to the sector shaft aligning the match marks

made during removal. Install the retaining nut and lock washer and tighten to 170-228 ft. lbs.

(234-316 Nm).

12. Mount the steering gear in position. Install 3 retaining bolts and tighten to 50-68 ft. lbs. (68-92

Nm).

13. Connect the power steering pressure hoses to the steering gear using new seals, if necessary.

14. Slide the intermediate shaft on the steering gear input shaft and install the shaft pinch bolt.

Tighten the pinch bolt to 30-42 ft. lbs. (41-57 Nm).

15. Install the dust cover over the steering shaft valve housing.

16. Connect the pitman arm to the drag link. Install the castellated nut and tighten to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-

104 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.

17. Install the radiator air deflector and secure with 3 retaining screws and 5 push clips.

18. Install the skid plate and secure with 6 retaining bolts.

19. Lower the vehicle.

20. Fill and bleed the power steering system.

21. Road test the vehicle and check the steering system for proper operation.

1999-00 F-Super Duty models except for Motorhome chassis

1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

2. Disengage the steering coupling shield from the line fitting and slide upwards on the steering

shaft.

3. Make sure the steering column is locked.

4. Remove the intermediate shaft-to-gear pinch bolt. Turn the steering wheel as necessary to

access the bolt.

5. Disconnect the power steering lines.

6. Raise and support the vehicle.

7. Remove the drag link cotter pin and nut and disconnect the drag link.

8. Remove the bolts and the steering gear.

9. Remove the steering gear sector shaft arm.

To install:

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Motorhome chassis

1. Drain the power steering reservoir.

2. Remove the steering shaft coupler pinch bolt.

3. Slide the coupler upward and away from the steering gear.

4. Disconnect the two power steering lines.

5. Remove the steering link cotter pin and retaining nut.

6. Remove the steering link from the steering gear sector shaft.

7. Remove the three nuts and bolts and remove the steering gear.

To install:

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Power Steering Pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

5.8L, 7.3L, and 7.5L Engines

EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME MODELS

Power steering pump installation on the 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

Power steering pump installation on the 7.5L EFI

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the return line at the pump and drain the fluid into a container.

2. Disconnect the pressure line from the pump.

3. Loosen the pump bracket nuts and remove the drive belt.

4. Remove the nuts and lift out the pump/bracket assembly.

5. If a new pump or bracket is being installed, remove the pulley from the pump; use a press and

adapters.

To install:

6. Position the steering pump on the engine and install the mounting fasteners. Tighten the

fasteners to the following specifications:

Pump-to-adjustment bracket—45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

Support bracket-to-engine (5.8L)—65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm)

Support bracket-to-water pump housing (5.8L)—45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

Pressure line-to-fitting—29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm)

Adjustment bracket-to-support bracket:

5.8L—45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

7.3L and 7.5L—Long bolt—65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm)

Short bolt—45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

7. Install the accessory drive belt.

8. Attach the fluid lines to the pump, then bleed the hydraulic steering system.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME MODELS

ZF Power steering pump installation on F-Super Duty motor home chassis

Click to enlarge

ZF Power steering pump installation on F-Super Duty stripped chassis

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the pressure line from the pump and tie up the ends of both hoses in a raised

position. Cap the openings.

2. Loosen the pump pivot and adjusting bolts and remove the drive belt.

3. Remove the bolts and lift out the pump.

To install:

4. Install the pump in the vehicle.

5. Install the pivot bolt and nut finger-tight.

6. Install the accessory drive belt, then adjust the belt tension.

7. Tighten the mounting (pivot and adjusting) bolts to 30-45 ft. lbs. (41-61 Nm).

8. Connect the hoses, then refill the reservoir.

9. Bleed the system, then run the engine and check for leaks.

4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

1. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.

2. Remove the accessory drive belt.

3. Disconnect the power steering reservoir pump hose from the power steering pump and drain the

fluid into a large catch pan.

4. Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the steering gear.

5. Remove the 2 top power steering pump bolts.

6. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.

7. Remove the 2 lower pump bolts and remove the power steering pump from the engine.

8. Lower the vehicle.

9. If necessary, remove the power steering pressure hose fitting from the pump by holding the

pump in a vise.

10. If necessary, remove the power steering pump pulley. Hold the Steering Pump Pulley Remover

T69L-10300-B, or equivalent and rotate the forcing bolt to remove the pulley from the pump.

To install:

11. If the pulley was removed, thread the forcing bolt into the power steering pump and turn the

steering pump pulley replacer tool, or equivalent, to install the pump pulley.

12. Install a new power steering Teflon® seal onto the pressure hose fitting by stretching the Teflon®

seal over the Teflon® seal replacer set D90P-3517-A, or equivalent, until it is large enough to slip

over the tube nut.

13. Install the power steering pressure hose, then tighten the fitting to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm).

14. Position the steering pump and loosely install the 4 mounting bolts.

15. Tighten the 2 upper mounting bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

16. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.

17. Tighten the 2 lower mounting bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

18. Lower the vehicle.

19. Install the other power steering pressure hose to the steering gear, then tighten to 13-17 ft. lbs.

(17-23 Nm).

20. Connect the power steering reservoir pump hose to the power steering pump.

21. Fill and bleed the hydraulic power steering system.

BLEEDING

1. Fill the power steering pump reservoir.

2. Raise the front wheel and tire assemblies off the ground and support the vehicle with jack stands.

3. Disable the ignition system.

4. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock while cranking the engine. While cranking, add power

steering fluid until the level in the reservoir stays constant.

Do not hold the steering against the lock for more than 5 seconds at a time or damage to

the power steering pump may result.

5. Check the fluid level and add if necessary.

6. Restore the ignition system.

7. Start the engine and allow it to idle for several minutes.

8. Remove the jack stands.

9. Lower the vehicle.

10. Rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock several times.

11. Turn the engine OFF and check the fluid level again.

12. Road test the vehicle and check for proper power steering system operation.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Specification Charts

Torque Specifications

Click to enlarge

Torque Specifications

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

REAR DRUM BRAKE

COMPONENTS

1. Shoe hold-down spring and retainer

2. Primary brake shoe

3. Secondary brake shoe

4. Brake shoe retracting springs

5. Anchor pin guide plate

6. Shoe adjusting lever cable

7. Parking brake strut

8. Shoe adjusting lever cable guide

9. Brake shoe adjusting screw spring

10. Brake adjuster screw

11. Brake shoe adjusting lever

12. Adjusting lever return spring

13. Wheel cylinder

14. Parking brake lever retaining clip

15. Parking brake lever

Brake Operating System

Basic Operating Principles

Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes of all modern automobiles. The system transports

the power required to force the frictional surfaces of the braking system together from the pedal to

the individual brake units at each wheel. A hydraulic system is used for two reasons.

First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all parts of an automobile by small pipes and flexible

hoses without taking up a significant amount of room or posing routing problems.

Second, a great mechanical advantage can be given to the brake pedal end of the system, and the

foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be reduced by making the surface area of the

master cylinder pistons smaller than that of any of the pistons in the wheel cylinders or calipers.

The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir along with a double cylinder and piston assembly.

Double type master cylinders are designed to separate the front and rear braking systems

hydraulically in case of a leak. The master cylinder coverts mechanical motion from the pedal into

hydraulic pressure within the lines. This pressure is translated back into mechanical motion at the

wheels by either the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or the caliper (disc brakes).

Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the vehicle's frame near each of the vehicle's wheels.

The fluid is then carried to the calipers and wheel cylinders by flexible tubes in order to allow for

suspension and steering movements.

In drum brake systems, each wheel cylinder contains two pistons, one at either end, which push

outward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe into contact with the drum.

In disc brake systems, the cylinders are part of the calipers. At least one cylinder in each caliper is

used to force the brake pads against the disc.

All pistons employ some type of seal, usually made of rubber, to minimize fluid leakage. A rubber dust

boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against dust and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of

the piston on disc brake calipers, and around the brake actuating rod on wheel cylinders.

The hydraulic system operates as follows: When at rest, the entire system, from the piston(s) in the

master cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon application of

the brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master cylinder piston(s) is forced through the lines to

the wheel cylinders. Here, it forces the pistons outward, in the case of drum brakes, and inward

toward the disc, in the case of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is opposed by return springs

mounted outside the cylinders in drum brakes, and by spring seals, in disc brakes.

Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located inside the master cylinder immediately returns the

master cylinder pistons to the normal position. The pistons contain check valves and the master

cylinder has compensating ports drilled in it. These are uncovered as the pistons reach their normal

position. The piston check valves allow fluid to flow toward the wheel cylinders or calipers as the

pistons withdraw. Then, as the return springs force the brake pads or shoes into the released

position, the excess fluid reservoir through the compensating ports. It is during the time the pedal is

in the released position that any fluid that has leaked out of the system will be replaced through the

compensating ports.

Dual circuit master cylinders employ two pistons, located one behind the other, in the same cylinder.

The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical linkage from the brake pedal through the power

booster. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid trapped between the two pistons. If a leak

develops in front of the secondary piston, it moves forward until it bottoms against the front of the

master cylinder, and the fluid trapped between the pistons will operate the rear brakes. If the rear

brakes develop a leak, the primary piston will move forward until direct contact with the secondary

piston takes place, and it will force the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes. In either case,

the brake pedal moves farther when the brakes are applied, and less braking power is available.

All dual circuit systems use a switch to warn the driver when only half of the brake system is

operational. This switch is usually located in a valve body which is mounted on the firewall or the

frame below the master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives pressure from both circuits, each

circuit's pressure being applied to one end of the piston. When the pressures are in balance, the

piston remains stationary. When one circuit has a leak, however, the greater pressure in that circuit

during application of the brakes will push the piston to one side, closing the switch and activating the

brake warning light.

In disc brake systems, this valve body also contains a metering valve and, in some cases, a

proportioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure from traveling to the disc brakes on the front

wheels until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have contacted the drums, ensuring that the front

brakes will never be used alone. The proportioning valve controls the pressure to the rear brakes to

lessen the chance of rear wheel lock-up during very hard braking.

Warning lights may be tested by depressing the brake pedal and holding it while opening one of the

wheel cylinder bleeder screws. If this does not cause the light to go on, substitute a new lamp, make

continuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as necessary.

The hydraulic system may be checked for leaks by applying pressure to the pedal gradually and

steadily. If the pedal sinks very slowly to the floor, the system has a leak. This is not to be confused

with a springy or spongy feel due to the compression of air within the lines. If the system leaks, there

will be a gradual change in the position of the pedal with a constant pressure.

Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel cylinders. If no external leaks are apparent, the problem is

inside the master cylinder.

DISC BRAKES

Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that press outward against a circular drum, disc brake

systems utilize a disc (rotor) with brake pads positioned on either side of it. An easily-seen analogy is

the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads squeeze onto the rim of the bike wheel, slowing

its motion. Automobile disc brakes use the identical principle but apply the braking effort to a

separate disc instead of the wheel.

The disc (rotor) is a casting, usually equipped with cooling fins between the two braking surfaces. This

enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces making them less sensitive to heat buildup and

more resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically affect braking action since contaminants are

thrown off by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped off the by the pads. Also, the equal

clamping action of the two brake pads tends to ensure uniform, straight line stops. Disc brakes are

inherently self-adjusting. There are three general types of disc brake:

A fixed caliper.

A floating caliper.

A sliding caliper.

The fixed caliper design uses two pistons mounted on either side of the rotor (in each side of the

caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does not move.

The sliding and floating designs are quite similar. In fact, these two types are often lumped together.

In both designs, the pad on the inside of the rotor is moved into contact with the rotor by hydraulic

force. The caliper, which is not held in a fixed position, moves slightly, bringing the outside pad into

contact with the rotor. There are various methods of attaching floating calipers. Some pivot at the

bottom or top, and some slide on mounting bolts. In any event, the end result is the same.

DRUM BRAKES

Drum brakes employ two brake shoes mounted on a stationary backing plate. These shoes are

positioned inside a circular drum which rotates with the wheel assembly. The shoes are held in place

by springs. This allows them to slide toward the drums (when they are applied) while keeping the

linings and drums in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a wheel cylinder which is mounted at the

top of the backing plate. When the brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces the wheel cylinder's

actuating links outward. Since these links bear directly against the top of the brake shoes, the tops of

the shoes are then forced against the inner side of the drum. This action forces the bottoms of the

two shoes to contact the brake drum by rotating the entire assembly slightly (known as servo action).

When pressure within the wheel cylinder is relaxed, return springs pull the shoes back away from the

drum.

Most modern drum brakes are designed to self-adjust themselves during application when the vehicle

is moving in reverse. This motion causes both shoes to rotate very slightly with the drum, rocking an

adjusting lever, thereby causing rotation of the adjusting screw. Some drum brake systems are

designed to self-adjust during application whenever the brakes are applied. This on-board adjustment

system reduces the need for maintenance adjustments and keeps both the brake function and pedal

feel satisfactory.

POWER BOOSTERS

Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force

and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the engine is operating, the system

is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists

the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the

brake pedal.

The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A

check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm housing, so that during

periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.

Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on

one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes.

When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs

return the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position.

If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod

and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance. The driver will notice that much

higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels harder than usual.

Vacuum Leak Test

1. Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one minute.

2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute.

3. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by depressing the brake pedal and releasing it several

times. If vacuum is present in the system, light application will produce less and less pedal

travel. If there is no vacuum, air is leaking into the system.

System Operation Test

1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal until the supply vacuum is entirely gone.

2. Put light, steady pressure on the brake pedal.

3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake pedal should fall

toward the floor if the constant pressure is maintained.

Power brake systems may be tested for hydraulic leaks just as ordinary systems are tested.

WARNING

Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper

operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest

quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes

contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master

cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid

that is removed from the system should be discarded.

Brake Light Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Exploded view of the brake light switch

Click to enlarge

1. Lift the locking tab on the switch connector and disconnect the wiring.

2. Remove the hairpin retainer, slide the stop lamp switch, pushrod and nylon washer off of the

pedal. Remove the washer, then the switch by sliding it up or down.

On trucks equipped with speed control, the spacer washer is replaced by the dump valve

adapter washer.

3. To install the switch, position it so that the U-shaped side is nearest the pedal and directly

over/under the pin.

4. Slide the switch up or down, trapping the master cylinder pushrod and bushing between the

switch side plates.

5. Push the switch and pushrod assembly firmly towards the brake pedal arm. Assemble the

outside white plastic washer to the pin and install the hairpin retainer.

CAUTION

Don't substitute any other type of retainer. Use only the Ford specified

hairpin retainer.

6. Assemble the connector on the switch.

7. Check stop lamp operation.

CAUTION

Make sure that the stop lamp switch wiring has sufficient travel during

a full pedal stroke!

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350, and F-Super Duty Models

Brake pedal position switch removal— F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00

F-250SD, F-350, and F-Super Duty Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disconnect the brake pedal position switch.

3. Remove the self-locking pin.

4. Remove the brake pedal position switch from the brake master cylinder push rod.

5. Remove the brake master cylinder push rod spacer.

6. Remove the brake master cylinder push rod bushing.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Master Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Master cylinder mounting—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Click to enlarge

1. With the engine OFF, depress the brake pedal several times to expel any vacuum.

2. Disconnect the fluid level warning switch wire.

3. Disconnect the hydraulic system brake lines at the master cylinder.

4. Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts and remove the master cylinder.

To install:

5. Position the master cylinder assembly on the booster and install the retaining nuts. Tighten the

nuts to 18-25 ft. lbs. (25-34 Nm).

6. Connect the hydraulic brake system lines to the master cylinder.

7. Connect the wiring.

8. Bleed the master cylinder.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Detach the fluid level electrical harness connector

Click to enlarge

If equipped with speed control, detach the brake pressure switch electrical harness

connector

Click to enlarge

Use a suitable size flare nut wrench to ...

... loosen the brake line fittings at the master cylinder

Plug the brake lines and inlet ports of the master cylinder

Remove the 2 retaining nuts and position the RABS valve out of the way

Remove the 2 retaining nuts and ...

... remove the master cylinder from the brake booster

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Detach the fluid level electrical harness connector from the master cylinder reservoir.

3. If equipped with speed control, detach the brake pressure switch electrical harness connector.

4. Disconnect and plug 2 brake lines at the brake master cylinder ports.

5. If the vehicle is equipped with rear anti-lock brakes, remove 2 retaining nuts and position the

RABS valve out of the way using care not to damage the brake lines.

6. Remove the 2 brake master cylinder retaining nuts and remove the master cylinder.

To install:

7. Bench bleed the brake master cylinder before installation.

8. Place the brake master cylinder to the power brake booster. Install 2 retaining nuts and tighten to

21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

9. If equipped, install the RABS valve and 2 retaining nuts. Tighten to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm).

10. Unplug and connect 2 brake lines to the brake master cylinder ports and tighten the fittings to 11-

15 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).

11. If equipped, connect the brake pressure switch electrical harness connector.

12. Connect the electrical harness connector to the low fluid level warning switch.

13. Fill the brake master cylinder with clean DOT 3 or equivalent brake fluid from a closed container.

14. Bleed the entire brake system following the proper procedure.

15. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

EXCEPT HYDRO-MAX

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner housing.

3. Detach the fluid level sensor connector.

4. Detach the brake pressure switch connector, if so equipped.

5. Disconnect the brake tubes.

6. Remove the bolts retaining the power steering tubes to the bracket.

7. Remove the brake master cylinder nuts.

8. Remove the power steering tube retaining bracket.

9. Remove the brake master cylinder.

To install:

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WITH HYDRO-MAX

WARNING

Do not depress the brake pedal while the hydraulic fluid supply line is

disconnected. The inlet pressure port check ball may be dislodged

which will result in a non-functional backup system.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the support bracket bolt and nut.

3. Disconnect the brake tubes.

4. Remove the ground wire nut and the ground wire.

5. Remove the four master cylinder retaining nuts.

6. Remove the master cylinder.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

BENCH BLEEDING

WARNING

All new master cylinders should be bench bled prior to installation.

Bleeding a new master cylinder on the vehicle is not a good idea.

With air trapped inside, the master cylinder piston may bottom in the

bore and possibly cause internal damage.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise using soft jaws.

2. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.

3. Manufacture or purchase bleeding tubes and install them on the master cylinder as illustrated.

4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid until the level is within 0.25 in. of

the reservoir top.

Ensure the bleeding tubes are below the level of the brake fluid, otherwise air may get into

the system making your bleeding efforts ineffective.

5. Use a blunt tipped rod (a long socket extension works well) to slowly depress the master cylinder

piston. Make sure the piston travels full its full stroke.

6. As the piston is depressed, bubbles will come out of the bleeding tubes. Continue depressing

and releasing the piston until all bubbles cease.

7. Refill the master cylinder with fluid.

8. Remove the bleeding tubes.

9. Install the master cylinder reservoir cap.

10. Install the master cylinder on the vehicle.

Power Brake Booster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Brake booster assembly— F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-Super

Duty models with vacuum assisted booster

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the master cylinder.

2. Disconnect the power brake booster hose.

3. Remove the stoplight switch self-locking pin.

4. Slide the stoplight switch and booster push rod off the brake pedal pin.

5. Remove the bulkhead sound insulator.

6. Remove the power brake booster nuts and remove the booster.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

WITH HYDROBOOST BRAKES

Hydro-Boost system on the F-Super Duty chassis cab

Click to enlarge

Hydro-Boost system on the F-Super Duty commercial stripped chassis

Click to enlarge

Hydro-Boost system on the F-Super Duty motor home chassis

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

Do not depress the brake pedal with the master cylinder removed!

1. Depress the brake pedal several times with the engine off to exhaust the pressure in the

accumulator.

2. Remove the master cylinder from the Hydro-Boost unit. Do not disconnect the brake lines from

the master cylinder! Position the master cylinder out of the way.

3. Disconnect the 3 hydraulic lines from the Hydro-Boost unit.

4. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.

5. Remove the booster mounting nuts and lift the booster from the firewall.

CAUTION

The booster should never be carried by the accumulator. The

accumulator contains high pressure nitrogen and can be dangerous if

mishandled! If the accumulator is to be disposed of, do not expose it

to fire or other forms of incineration! Gas pressure can be relieved by

drilling a

1

/

16

in. (1.5mm) hole in the end of the accumulator can.

Always wear safety goggles during the drilling!

6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the booster mounting nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm); the

master cylinder nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm); connect the hydraulic lines, refill and bleed the

booster as follows:

1. Fill the pump reservoir with Dexron®II ATF.

2. Disconnect the coil wires and crank the engine for several

seconds.

3. Check the fluid level and refill, if necessary.

4. Connect the coil wires and start the engine.

5. With the engine running, turn the steering wheel lock-tolock twice. Shut off the engine.

6. Depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the

accumulator.

7. Start the engine and repeat Step 6e.

8. If foam appears in the reservoir, allow the foam to dissipate.

9. Repeat Step 6e as often as necessary to expel all air from

the system.

The system is, in effect, self-bleeding and normal vehicle operation will expel any further

trapped

WITH VACUUM ASSISTED BOOSTER

Brake booster assembly—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty wit vacuum assist

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the brake light switch wires.

2. Support the master cylinder from below, with a prop of some kind.

3. Loosen the clamp and remove the booster check valve hose.

4. Remove the wraparound clip from the booster inboard stud.

5. Remove the master cylinder from the booster. Keep it supported. It will not be necessary to

disconnect the brake lines.

6. Working inside the truck below the instrument panel, disconnect the booster valve operating rod

from the brake pedal assembly.

7. Remove the 4 bracket-to-dash panel attaching nuts.

8. Remove the booster and bracket assembly from the dash panel, sliding the valve operating rod

out from the engine side of the dash panel.

To install:

9. Mount the booster and bracket assembly on the dash panel by sliding the valve operating rod in

through the hole in the dash panel, and installing the attaching nuts. Tighten the nuts to 18-25 ft.

lbs. (24-34 Nm).

10. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster.

11. Install the master cylinder. Tighten the nuts to 18-25 ft. lbs. (24-34 Nm).

12. Install the wraparound clip.

13. Connect the stop light switch wires.

14. Working inside the truck below the instrument panel, connect the pushrod and stoplight switch.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

WITH HYDRO-BOOST BRAKES

Hydro-boost brake booster assembly

WARNING

The power brake booster should not be carried by the accumulator,

nor should it ever be dropped on the accumulator. Check the snap

ring on the accumulator for proper seating before the power brake

booster is used. The accumulator contains high-pressure nitrogen gas

and can be dangerous if mishandled.

1. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times to discharge the accumulator.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the left side battery.

4. Remove the air cleaner housing.

5. Remove the brake pressure switch electrical connector.

6. Disconnect the power steering pressure hoses.

7. Disconnect the power steering return line hose.

8. Remove the three power steering line clamp bolts.

9. Remove the brake master cylinder nuts.

10. Remove the power steering hose mounting bracket and the brake master cylinder, and position

aside.

11. Remove the fuse panel cover.

12. Remove the stoplight switch self-locking pin.

13. Remove the stoplight switch and the brake booster push rod from the brake pedal pin.

14. Remove the power brake booster nuts, and remove the power brake booster.

To install:

CAUTION

If the accumulator is to be disposed of, it must not be exposed to

excessive heat. Before discarding the accumulator, drill a 1 /

16

inch

(1.6-mm) diameter hole in the end of the accumulator can to relieve

the gas pressure. Always wear safety glasses when performing this

operation.

15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

16. Install new Teflon® seals on the power steering pressure fittings.

WITH VACUUM ASSISTED BOOSTER

Brake booster assembly— F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-Super

Duty models with vacuum assisted booster

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner housing.

3. Remove the brake master cylinder nuts.

4. Position the brake master cylinder aside.

5. Disconnect the booster vacuum hose.

6. Disconnect the power distribution box auxiliary relay and set aside.

7. Remove the fuse panel cover.

8. Remove the stoplight switch self-locking pin.

9. Remove the stoplight switch and the brake booster push rod from the brake pedal pin.

10. Remove the power brake booster nuts.

11. Remove the power brake booster.

To install:

12. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WITH HYDRO-MAX BRAKES

Hydro-max brake booster assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the support bracket bolt and nut.

3. Remove the ground wire nut and the ground wire.

4. Remove the four master cylinder nuts.

5. Position the master cylinder aside.

6. Remove the electric motor relay bolt.

7. Detach the flow switch electrical connector.

8. Remove the steering column cover.

9. Remove the stoplight switch self-locking pin.

10. Remove the stoplight switch and the brake booster push rod from the brake pedal.

11. Detach the electric pump and motor assembly electric connector.

12. Disconnect the hydraulic fluid return hose.

13. Remove the hydraulic fluid supply line nut.

14. Remove the Hydro-Max booster nuts, and remove the Hydro-Max booster.

15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Start the hydraulic fluid supply line before tightening the Hydro-Max nuts and bolts.

Diesel Engine Vacuum Pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Vacuum pump mounting—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

3. Remove the drive belt.

4. Remove the upper radiator hose clamps and upper radiator hose.

5. Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose at the radiator.

6. Remove the fan shroud, fan blade and fan clutch. Refer to Section 3 .

7. Remove the vacuum pump pulley using pulley remover T69L-10300-B or equivalent.

8. Remove the vacuum pump retaining bolts.

9. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose and remove the vacuum pump.

To install:

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

11. Fill the engine with the proper mixture of coolant and water. Bleed the system.

Proportioning Valve

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-Super Duty Only

Setting the correct indexing height for the height sensing proportioning valve

Click to enlarge

A common height sensing proportioning valve—F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

If the linkage is disconnected from the valve, the proper setting of the valve will be lost and

a new valve will have to be installed. The new valve will have the shaft preset and secured

internally. If the shaft of the new valve turns freely, DO NOT USE IT!—The valve cannot be

repaired or disassembled. It is to be replaced as a unit.—If the linkage is damaged or

broken and requires replacement, a new sensing valve will also be required.

1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.

2. Raise the frame to obtain a clearance of 6

5

/

8

in. (168.3mm) between the bottom edge of the

rubber jounce bumper and the top of the axle tube—on BOTH sides of the axle. The is the correct

indexing height for the valve.

3. Remove the nut holding the linkage arm to the valve and disconnect the arm.

4. Remove the bolt holding the flexible brake hose to the valve.

5. Disconnect the brake line from the valve.

6. Remove the 2 mounting bolts and remove the valve from its bracket.

To install:

7. Place the new valve on the bracket and tighten the mounting bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm).

8. Install the brake hose, using new copper gaskets and tighten the bolt to 28-34 ft. lbs. (38-46 Nm).

9. Attach the brake line to the lower part of the valve.

10. Connect the linkage arm to the valve and tighten the nut to 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-13 Nm).

11. Bleed the brakes.

When servicing axle or suspension parts which would require disconnection of the valve,

instead, remove the 2 nuts that attach the linkage arm to the axle cover plate. This will

avoid disconnecting the valve and avoid having to replace the valve.

Brake Hoses and Lines

Metal lines and rubber brake hoses should be checked frequently for leaks and external damage. Metal

lines are particularly prone to crushing and kinking under the vehicle. Any such deformation can

restrict the proper flow of fluid and therefore impair braking at the wheels. Rubber hoses should be

checked for cracking or scraping; such damage can create a weak spot in the hose and it could fail

under pressure.

Any time the lines are removed or disconnected, extreme cleanliness must be observed. Clean all

joints and connections before disassembly (use a stiff bristle brush and clean brake fluid); be sure to

plug the lines and ports as soon as they are opened. New lines and hoses should be flushed clean

with brake fluid before installation to remove any contamination.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

3. Remove any wheel and tire assemblies necessary for access to the particular line you are

removing.

4. Thoroughly clean the surrounding area at the joints to be disconnected.

Use a brush to clean the fittings of any debris

5. Place a suitable catch pan under the joint to be disconnected.

6. Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting), disconnect the hose or line

to be replaced.

Use two wrenches to loosen the fitting. If available, use flare nut type wrenches

7. Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary. Always use a

back-up wrench to avoid damaging the fitting.

8. Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line from the vehicle.

If the brake system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines, tape or

plug each remaining clip and port to keep contaminants out and fluid in.

Any gaskets/crush washers should be replaced with new ones during installation

Tape or plug the line to prevent contamination

To install:

9. Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master cylinder. Connect the

other end, then confirm that both fittings are correctly threaded and turn smoothly using finger

pressure. Make sure the new line will not rub against any other part. Brake lines must be at least

1/2 in. (13mm) from the steering column and other moving parts. Any protective shielding or

insulators must be reinstalled in the original location.

WARNING

Make sure the hose is NOT kinked or touching any part of the frame

or suspension after installation. These conditions may cause the hose

to fail prematurely.

10. Using two wrenches as before, tighten each fitting.

11. Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines.

12. If removed, install the wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle to the ground.

13. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid, meeting DOT 3

specifications. Properly bleed the brake system.

14. Connect the negative battery cable.

Bleeding Brake System

Bleeder valve location—drum brakes

Click to enlarge

Place a wrench onto the bleeder valve, connect a hose and carefully open the bleeder

valve to bleed the brakes—drum brakes

Place a wrench onto the bleeder valve, connect a hose and carefully open the bleeder

valve to bleed the brakes—disc brakes

Click to enlarge

When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get

into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot).

To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning at the cylinder with

the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder

reservoir filled with brake fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been

drained from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled independently. During

the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled

with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and fill the master cylinder

with brake fluid until the level is within

1

/

4

in. (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.

2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on the back of the brake

backing plate (drum brakes) and on the top of the brake calipers (disc brakes).

3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a

glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.

4. Open the bleeder screw

1

/

2

-

3

/

4

turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.

5. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to return slowly.

Continue this process to purge all air from the system.

6. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder screw and

remove the hose. Tighten the bleeder screw to the proper torque:

Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel.

Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining 3 wheels, ending with the one closet to the master

cylinder.

Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Disc Brakes

Brake Pads

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Pads

Caliper mounting bolt locations

Click to enlarge

Loosen the caliper mounting bolts

The pads can be accessed by removing the lower caliper bolt and rotating the caliper up

as shown

Support the caliper with a piece of mechanic's wire or other suitable device

Remove the outer and ...

... inner brake pads from the caliper bracket

A special tool from Lisle®, shown here, is available to compress the caliper piston

If the special tool is not available, a large C-clamp works well

Thoroughly clean the caliper brackets before installing the new pads

Remove the caliper slides and ...

... thoroughly clean the slides

Lubricate the caliper slides before reinstalling them into the caliper bracket

Make sure that the caliper tension spring is installed into the caliper before installing the

caliper

Before installing the brake pads, it is recommended that you apply a suitable anti-squeal

lubricant to the pads and ...

... spread the lubricant evenly over the backing of the brake pads

CAUTION

Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been

determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake

surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake

surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available

brake cleaning fluid.

1. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper

cylinder bores, siphon or dip some brake fluid out of the larger reservoir.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

2. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.

3. Remove the wheels.

4. Place an suitable C-clamp on the caliper and, with the clamp bearing on the outer pad, tighten the

clamp to bottom the caliper pistons in the cylinder bores. Remove the C-clamp.

5. Loosen and remove the caliper retaining bolts.

6. Lift the caliper off of the rotor.

Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose.

7. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring.

To install:

8. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and spindle assembly which contact each other during

Rear Pads

the sliding action of the caliper.

9. Place a new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the inboard shoe. Make sure that the tabs on the

clip are positioned correctly and the loop-type spring is away from the rotor.

10. Place the lower end of the inner brake pad in the spindle assembly pad abutment, against the

anti-rattle clip, and slide the upper end of the pad into position. Be sure that the clip is still in

position.

11. Check and make sure that the caliper piston is fully bottomed in the cylinder bore. Use a large Cclamp to bottom the piston, if necessary.

12. Position the outer brake pad on the caliper, and press the pad tabs into place with your fingers. If

the pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a C-clamp. Be careful not to damage the

lining with the clamp. Bend the tabs to prevent rattling.

13. Position the caliper on the spindle assembly. Lightly lubricate the caliper sliding pins with a

suitable grease.

14. Position the caliper pins into the caliper anchor plate.

15. Tighten the caliper pins to 16-30 ft. lbs. (22-40 Nm) on 19997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super duty

models. Tighten the caliper pins to 21-26 ft. lbs. (28-36 Nm) on the F-150, F-250, Expedition and

Navigator. Tighten the caliper pins to 42 ft. lbs. (56 Nm) on the 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-

Super Duty models.

16. Install the wheels.

17. Lower the vehicle.

18. Pump the brake pedal a few times to build adequate pressure in the brake system and check the

fluid level in the master cylinder.

1997-98 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

Brake caliper assembly—1997-98 F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been

determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake

surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake

surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available

brake cleaning fluid.

Never replace the pads on one side only! Always replace pads on both wheels as a set!

1. To avoid overflowing of the master cylinder when the caliper pistons are pressed into the caliper

cylinder bores, siphon or dip some brake fluid out of the larger reservoir.

2. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.

3. Remove the wheels.

4. Place a suitable C-clamp on the caliper and tighten the clamp to bottom the caliper pistons in the

cylinder bores. Remove the C-clamp.

5. Clean the excess dirt from around the caliper pin tabs.

6. Drive the upper caliper pin inward until the tabs on the pin touch the caliper support.

7. Insert a small prybar into the slot provided behind the pin tabs on the inboard side of the pin.

8. Using needlenose pliers, compress the outboard end of the pin while, at the same time, prying

with the prybar until the tabs slip into the groove in the caliper support.

9. Place the end of a

7

/

16

in. (11mm) punch against the end of the caliper pin and drive the pin out of

the caliper slide groove.

10. Repeat this procedure for the lower pin.

11. Lift the caliper off of the rotor.

12. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring.

Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose.

13. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and caliper support assembly which contact each other

during the sliding action of the caliper.

To install:

14. Place a new anti-rattle clip on the lower end of the inboard shoe. Make sure that the tabs on the

clip are positioned correctly and the loop-type spring is away from the rotor.

15. Place the lower end of the inner brake pad in the caliper support assembly pad abutment, against

the anti-rattle clip, and slide the upper end of the pad into position. Be sure that the clip is still in

position.

16. Check and make sure that the caliper pistons are fully bottomed in the cylinder bores. Use a large

C-clamp to bottom the pistons, if necessary.

17. Position the outer brake pad on the caliper, and press the pad tabs into place with your fingers. If

the pad cannot be pressed into place by hand, use a C-clamp. Be careful not to damage the

lining with the clamp. Bend the tabs to prevent rattling.

18. Position the caliper on the caliper support. Lightly lubricate the caliper sliding grooves with

caliper pin grease.

19. Position the a new upper pin with the retention tabs next to the support groove.

Don't use the bolt and nut with the new pin.

20. Carefully drive the pin, at the outboard end, inward until the tabs contact the caliper support face.

21. Repeat the procedure for the lower pin.

WARNING

Don't drive the pins in too far, or it will be necessary to drive them

back out until the tabs snap into place. The tabs on each end of the

pin MUST be free to catch on the support sides!

22. Install the wheels.

23. Lower the vehicle.

24. Pump the brake pedal a few times to build adequate pressure in the brake system and check the

fluid level in the master cylinder.

EXCEPT 1997-98 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

CAUTION

Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been

determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake

surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake

surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available

brake cleaning fluid.

Never replace the pads on one side only! Always replace pads on both wheels as a set!

1. Remove the rear brake caliper from the rear hub without disconnecting the brake hose.

WARNING

Do not allow the caliper to hand by the brake hose.

2. Remove the brake pads and anti-rattle spring.

3. Thoroughly clean the areas of the caliper and caliper support assembly which contact each other

during the sliding action of the caliper.

To install:

4. Retract the caliper piston into the caliper using a suitable tool.

5. Position the brake shoes and anti-rattle clips on the disc brake caliper support bracket.

6. Install the rear disc brake caliper onto the rear support bracket. Tighten the caliper retaining pins

on the F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator to 20 ft. lbs. ( 27 Nm). Tighten the caliper retaining

bolts on the 1999-00 F-Super Duty models to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm.)

7. Bleed the brake system.

8. Clean the wheel hub mounting surface.

9. Install the front wheels and snug the lug nuts to fully seat the wheel against the hub.

10. Lower the vehicle until some of the vehicle's weight rests on the front tires, then tighten the lug

nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

11. Lower the vehicle completely.

12. Pump the brake pedal a few times to build adequate pressure in the brake system and check the

fluid level in the master cylinder.

INSPECTION

A gauge that measures in 1 /

32

's of an inch is available to measure brake pad thickness

A ruler can also be used. Make sure to measure the pads in several places since pads can

wear unevenly

CAUTION

Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been

determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake

surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake

surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available

brake cleaning fluid.

Inspect the brake pads for wear using a ruler, Vernier caliper or other suitable device. Compare

measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is

evidence of the lining being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, make the necessary repairs and

replace all brake pad assemblies (a complete axle set).

Brake Caliper

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Caliper

Loosen the brake hose bolt and ...

... remove the brake hose from the caliper

Discard the copper washers and replace them

Plug the inlet port on the caliper

Caliper mounting bolt locations

Click to enlarge

Loosen the caliper mounting bolts

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the front wheels.

3. Remove the front brake hose bolt, then remove the copper washers and plug the front brake

hose.

4. Remove the 2 front disc brake caliper slide pins, then lift the caliper off of the front caliper anchor

plate.

To install:

5. Install the front disc brake caliper onto the caliper anchor plate, then install the 2 slide pins.

Tighten the slider pins/bolts to 16-30 ft. lbs. (22-40 Nm) on the 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-

Super Duty models. Tighten the bolts to 21-26 ft. lbs. (28-36 Nm) on the F-150, F-250, Expedition

and Navigator. Tighten the bolts to 42 ft. lbs. (56 Nm). On the 1999-00 F-Super Duty models.

6. Using new copper washers, attach the front brake hose to the brake caliper, then install and

tighten the retaining bolt to 23-29 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm).

7. Bleed the brake system.

8. Clean the wheel hub mounting surface.

9. Install the front wheels and snug the lug nuts to fully seat the wheel against the hub.

10. Lower the vehicle until some of the vehicle's weight rests on the front tires, then tighten the lug

nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

11. Lower the vehicle completely.

12. Make sure that the brakes are operating correctly.

Rear Caliper

1997-98 F-SUPER DUTY

Brake caliper assembly—1997-98 F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

1. Remove sufficient brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir to allow for pressing the

caliper pistons into the bores. Discard the used brake fluid.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the wheels.

4. Place a suitable C-clamp on the caliper, with he clamp frame on the disc brake caliper and the

clamp screw on the outboard brake hoes and lining backing plate, then tighten the clamp to

press the caliper pistons in the cylinder bores only enough to give removal clearance. Remove

the C-clamp.

5. Remove the rear brake hose-to-caliper flow bolt and discard the used copper washers. Plug the

brake hose so that contamination of the brake fluid does not occur.

6. Using the Caliper Pin Remover D89T-2196-A, or equivalent, drive the upper and lower caliper

locking pins out.

7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the vehicle.

To install:

8. If necessary, install the brake shoe and anti-rattle clip.

9. Position the disc brake caliper in the support bracket.

10. Lubricate the caliper locking pins with Ford Silicone Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or

equivalent.

11. Drive the locking pins into the caliper/support bracket assembly until the tabs at each end of the

pin snap into place.

12. Using new copper washers, attach the rear brake hose to the disc brake caliper. Tighten the rear

brake hose-to-caliper flow bolt to 22-29 ft. lbs. (30-39 Nm).

13. Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle.

Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir and maintain sufficient

level to prevent air from entering the system.

14. Pump the brake pedal several times to drive the caliper pistons into contact with the brake shoe

and lining.

15. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid.

16. Bleed the brake system and test the brakes for proper operation.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION, NAVIGATOR AND 1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

WARNING

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch. Failure to

do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs

which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

3. Remove bolt and disconnect the rear wheel brake hose.

4. Remove the copper washers and plug the brake hose.

WARNING

Do not remove the guide pins or guide pin boots unless a problem is

suspected. The guide pins are meant to be sealed for life and are not

repairable. Use Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric

Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or an equivalent

silicone compound meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A for relubing the caliper slide pins. Other greases can swell the guide pin

boots, resulting in contamination and accelerated corrosion or wear

of the caliper slide pin mechanism.

5. Remove the brake caliper bolts.

6. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate.

7. Inspect the rear disc brake caliper for leaks.

To install:

When installed, the locator notch on the brake pads will be located at the upper end of the

rear disc brake caliper.

8. Install the rear disc brake caliper.

9. Install the rear wheel brake hose.

10. Connect the brake hose and install and use new copper washers.

11. Tighten the brake hose bolt.

12. Bleed the disc brake caliper.

If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension

switch.

13. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

14. Verify correct brake operation.

OVERHAUL

Some vehicles may be equipped dual piston calipers. The procedure to overhaul the caliper

is essentially the same with the exception of multiple pistons, O-rings and dust boots.

1. Remove the caliper from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench.

CAUTION

NEVER place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch

or protect the pistons when applying compressed air. This could

result in personal injury!

Depending upon the vehicle, there are two different ways to remove the piston from the

caliper. Refer to the brake pad replacement procedure to make sure you have the correct

procedure for your vehicle.

2. The first method is as follows:

1. Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to

catch the piston.

2. Remove the caliper piston using compressed air applied

into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scoring,

nicks, corrosion and/or worn or damaged chrome plating.

The piston must be replaced if any of these conditions are

found.

For some types of calipers, use compressed air to drive the piston out of the caliper, but

make sure to keep your fingers clear

Withdraw the piston from the caliper bore

3. For the second method, you must rotate the piston to retract it from the caliper.

4. If equipped, remove the anti-rattle clip.

On some vehicles, you must remove the anti-rattle clip

5. Use a prytool to remove the caliper boot, being careful not to scratch the housing bore.

Use a prytool to carefully pry around the edge of the boot ...

... then remove the boot from the caliper housing, taking care not to score or damage

the bore

6. Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore.

Use extreme caution when removing the piston seal; DO NOT scratch the caliper bore

7. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing.

8. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive wear.

9. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore.

10. Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and dry with compressed air.

To assemble:

11. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap.

12. Install the new seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are not twisted.

13. Lubricate the piston bore.

14. Install the pistons and boots into the bores of the calipers and push to the bottom of the bores.

15. Use a suitable driving tool to seat the boots in the housing.

Use the proper size driving tool and a mallet to properly seal the boots in the caliper

housing

16. Install the caliper in the vehicle.

17. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle.

18. Properly bleed the brake system.

There are tools, such as this Mighty-Vac, available to assist in proper brake system

bleeding

Brake Disc (Rotor)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

4 X 2 MODELS FRONT DISC

Brake rotor mounting—1997-98 F-250HD and F-350 4 X 2

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the caliper assembly and support it on the frame with a piece of wire without

disconnecting the brake fluid hose.

4. Remove the hub grease cap.

5. Remove the cotter pin.

6. Remove the retainer nut.

7. Remove the spindle nut.

8. Remove the outer bearing retainer washer and wheel bearing.

9. Remove the disc brake hub and rotor assembly.

10. Remove the bearing grease seal and the inner bearing.

To install:

11. If the brake rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor. If the

original rotor is being installed, ensure that the rotor braking surfaces are clean.

12. Thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

13. Lubricate the front wheel bearings using premium long-life grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

14. Install the inner front wheel bearing.

15. Install a new wheel hub grease seal.

16. Place the hub and rotor assembly on the wheel spindle and install the outer wheel bearing.

17. Install the washer and spindle nut.

18. Adjust the wheel bearings.

19. Install the retainer nut, cotter pin and dust cap.

20. Install the caliper assembly.

21. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

22. Lower the vehicle.

4 X 4 MODELS FRONT DISC

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the caliper assembly and support it on the frame with a piece of wire without

disconnecting the brake fluid hose.

4. Remove the manual or automatic locking hubs.

5. Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor.

6. Remove the wheel hub grease seal.

7. Remove the inner front wheel bearing.

To install:

8. If the brake rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor. If the

original rotor is being installed, ensure that the rotor braking surfaces are clean.

9. Thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

10. Lubricate the front wheel bearings using premium long-life grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

11. Install the inner front wheel bearing.

12. Install a new wheel hub grease seal.

13. Place the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle.

14. Install the hub assembly.

15. Install the caliper assembly.

16. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

17. Lower the vehicle.

1997-98 F-Super Duty

FRONT

Brake rotor mounting—1997-98 F-Super-Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.

3. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

4. Remove the hub grease cap.

5. Remove the cotter pin.

6. Remove the spindle nut.

7. Remove the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

8. Remove the outer front wheel bearing.

9. Remove the hub grease cap gasket.

10. Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor.

11. Remove the wheel hub grease seal.

12. Remove the inner front wheel bearing.

To install:

13. If the brake rotor is being replaced, the hub is removed from the rotor. Remove the hub retaining

bolts and remove the hub from the rotor. Install the hub onto the new rotor. Tighten the retaining

bolts to 74-89 ft. lbs. (100-120 Nm).

14. Thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

15. Lubricate the front wheel bearings using premium long-life grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent

REAR

meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

16. Install the inner front wheel bearing.

17. Install a new wheel hub grease seal.

18. Install the front disc brake hub and rotor.

19. Install the outer front wheel bearing.

20. Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

21. Install the spindle nut.

22. While rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle nut.

23. Loosen the spindle nut two turns.

24. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

25. Loosen the spindle nut.

26. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

27. Install the cotter pin.

28. Install the hub grease cap gasket and the hub grease cap.

29. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

30. Install the brake caliper.

31. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

32. Lower the vehicle.

F-Super Duty rear disc brake assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the axle shaft retaining bolts and remove the axle shaft.

4. Using a suitable hub socket, loosen and remove the hub socket.

5. Remove the outer wheel bearing.

6. Remove the hub and rotor.

7. Remove the rotor-to-hub bolts and separate the hub and rear disc brake rotor.

To install:

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

FRONT

Remove the two caliper anchor plate retaining bolts and ...

... remove the caliper anchor plate

Lift the rotor off of the hub assembly—4 X 4 models only

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove 2 caliper slide pins and lift the caliper off the anchor plate.

4. Secure the caliper out of the way without damaging the brake hose.

5. Remove the disc brake pads and anti-rattle clips.

6. Remove 2 anchor plate retaining bolts and remove the anchor plate.

7. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the rotor from the hub assembly by pulling it off the hub studs. If

additional force is required to remove the rotor, apply rust penetrating fluid on the front and rear

rotor/hub mating surfaces and then strike the rotor between the studs with a plastic hammer. If

this does not work, attach a 3-jaw puller and remove the rotor.

8. On 4x2 vehicles:

1. Remove the hub grease cap.

2. Remove the cotter pin.

3. Remove the retainer nut.

4. Remove the spindle nut.

5. Remove the outer bearing retainer washer and wheel

bearing.

6. Remove the disc brake hub and rotor assembly.

If excessive force must be used to remove the rotor, it should be checked for lateral runout before installation.

9. Check the brake rotor for scoring and/or wear. Machine or replace, as necessary. If machining,

observe the minimum thickness specification stamped on the rotor.

To install:

10. If the brake rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor. If the

original rotor is being installed, ensure that the rotor braking surfaces are clean.

11. On 4x4 vehicles, apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the pilot diameter of the

disc brake rotor and install the rotor on the hub assembly.

12. On 4x2 vehicles:

1. Install the inner wheel bearing with a new grease seal.

2. Place the hub and rotor assembly on the wheel spindle and

install the outer wheel bearing.

3. Install the washer and spindle nut.

4. Adjust the wheel bearings.

5. Install the retainer nut, cotter pin and dust cap.

13. Place the anchor plate and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 125-168 ft. lbs. (170-230

Nm).

14. Install the brake pad anti-rattle clips and install the disc brake pads.

15. Slide the disc brake caliper into position. Install and tighten the caliper sliding pins to 21-26 ft.

lbs. (28-36 Nm).

16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

17. Lower the vehicle.

18. Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads prior to moving the vehicle.

19. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

REAR

When removing the rear disc brake caliper in this procedure, it is not necessary to

disconnect the rear wheel brake hose.

1. Remove the rear disc brake caliper.

If the brake disc binds on the parking brake shoe and lining, remove the adjustment hole

access plug and contract the parking brake shoe and lining.

2. Remove the press-on keeper nuts, if so equipped.

3. Remove the brake disc.

4. Inspect the brake disc. Replace the brake disc if necessary.

To install:

5. Install the brake disc.

6. Install the rear disc brake caliper.

7. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

8. Lower the vehicle.

1999-00 F-250SD and F-350 4x2

FRONT

Brake rotor mounting—1999-00 F-250SD and F-350 4 X 2

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

4. Remove the hub grease cap.

5. Remove the cotter pin.

6. Remove the nut retainer.

7. Remove the spindle nut.

8. Remove the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

9. Remove the outer front wheel bearing.

10. Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor.

11. Remove the wheel hub grease seal.

12. Remove the inner front wheel bearing.

To install:

13. Thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

14. Lubricate the front wheel bearings using premium long-life grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

15. Install the inner front wheel bearing.

16. Install a new wheel hub grease seal.

17. Install the front disc brake hub and rotor.

18. Install the outer front wheel bearing.

19. Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

20. Install the spindle nut.

21. While rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle nut.

22. Loosen the spindle nut two turns.

23. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

24. Loosen the spindle nut.

25. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

26. Install the following components:

Install the nut retainer.

Install the cotter pin.

Install the hub grease cap.

27. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

28. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

29. Lower the vehicle.

1999-00 F-250 and F-350 4x4

FRONT

Brake rotor mounting—1999-00 F-250SD and F-350 4 X 4 with single rear wheels

Brake rotor mounting—1999-00 F-250SD and F-350 4 X 4 with dual rear wheels

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the front brake caliper.

4. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

5. On single rear wheel (SRW) vehicles, remove the rotor.

6. On dual rear wheel (DRW) vehicles:

1. Remove the eight hub plate nuts.

2. Remove the hub plate.

3. Remove the rotor.

To install:

7. Position the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub. Make sure the wheel hub and the front disc

brake rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean.

8. On dual rear wheel (DRW) vehicles:

1. Install the front wheel hub plate and nuts. Tighten the hub

plate nuts to 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm).

9. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

10. Install the brake caliper.

11. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

12. Lower the vehicle.

1999-00 F-Super Duty and Motorhome Chassis

FRONT

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.

3. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

4. Remove the hub grease cap screws.

5. Remove the hub grease cap.

6. Remove the cotter pin.

7. Remove the spindle nut.

8. Remove the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

9. Remove the outer front wheel bearing.

10. Remove the hub grease cap gasket.

11. Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor.

12. Remove the wheel hub grease seal.

13. Remove the inner front wheel bearing.

To install:

14. Thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the front disc brake hub and rotor.

15. Lubricate the front wheel bearings using premium long-life grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent

meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

16. Install the inner front wheel bearing.

17. Install a new wheel hub grease seal.

18. Install the front disc brake hub and rotor.

19. Install the outer front wheel bearing.

20. Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.

21. Install the spindle nut.

22. While rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor, tighten the spindle nut.

23. Loosen the spindle nut two turns.

24. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

25. Loosen the spindle nut.

26. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor.

27. Install the cotter pin.

28. Install the hub grease cap gasket and the hub grease cap.

29. Install the hub grease cap screws.

30. Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.

31. Install the brake caliper.

32. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

33. Lower the vehicle.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

REAR

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the axle shaft retaining bolts and remove the axle shaft.

4. Using a suitable hub socket, loosen and remove the hub socket.

5. Remove the outer wheel bearing.

6. Remove the hub and rotor.

7. Remove the rotor-to-hub bolts and separate the hub and rear disc brake rotor.

To install:

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

INSPECTION

Check brake rotor thickness in several places around the rotor using a Vernier caliper

Rotor thickness should be measured any time a brake inspection is done. Rotor thickness can be

measured using a brake rotor micrometer or Vernier caliper. Measure the rotor thickness in several

places around the rotor. Compare the thickness to the specifications chart found at the end of this

section.

The run-out of the brake rotor should be checked any time a vibration during braking occurs.

Excessive run-out can be caused by a build-up of rust scale or other particles on the rotor or hub

surfaces. Remove the rotor and thoroughly clean the hub and rotor-to-hub mounting surface on the

back of the rotor. Mount a dial indicator to a suspension member and zero the indicator stylus on the

face of the rotor. Rotate the rotor 360 degrees by hand and record the run-out.

Compare measurements to the brake specifications chart. If the thickness and run-out do not meet

specifications, replace the rotor.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Drum Brakes

Introduction

Click to enlarge

Rear drum brake assembled view— F-250 HD and F-350

Click to enlarge

Rear drum brake exploded view— F-250 HD and F-350

Click to enlarge

Brake Drums

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250 and Expedition Models

Lift the brake drum from the shoes and backing plate

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

3. Remove the three retaining clips (if equipped) and remove the brake drum.

It may be necessary to back off the brake shoe adjustment in order to remove the brake

drum. This is because the drum might be grooved or worn from being in service for an

extended period of time.

Before installing a new brake drum, be sure to remove any protective coating with brake

cleaner or a suitable fast-drying degreaser.

4. Install the brake drum in the reverse order of removal and adjust the brakes.

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350 Models

Brake drum assembly—1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.

2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

3. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.

4. Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.

5. Remove the wheel bearing lock-nut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.

6. Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.

7. Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum

from the hub.

To install:

8. Place the drum on the hub and attach it to the hub with the attaching nuts and bolts.

9. Place the hub and drum assembly on the axle and start the adjusting nut.

10. Adjust the wheel bearing nut and install the wheel bearing lockwasher and lock-nut.

11. Install the axle shaft with a new gasket and install the axle retaining bolts and lockwashers.

12. Install the wheel and adjust the brake shoes. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

INSPECTION

Measure the drum using a micrometer especially for drums

Brake drum maximum diameter location

Check that there are no cracks or chips in the braking surface. Excessive bluing indicates overheating

and a replacement drum is needed. The drum can be machined to remove minor damage and to

establish a rounded braking surface on a warped drum. Never exceed the maximum oversize of the

drum when machining the braking surface.

The brake drum inside diameter and run-out can be measured using a brake drum micrometer. The

drum should be measured every time a brake inspection is performed. Take the inside diameter

readings at points 90° apart from each other on the drum to measure the run-out. The maximum

inside diameter is stamped on the rim of the drum or on the inside above the lug nut stud holes and

is also contained in the brake specifications chart at the end of this section.

Brake Shoes

INSPECTION

Measure brake shoe thickness in several places around the shoe

Inspect the brake shoes for wear using a ruler or Vernier caliper. Compare measurements to the

brake specifications chart. If the lining is thinner than specification or there is evidence of the lining

being contaminated by brake fluid or oil, repair the leak and replace all brake shoe assemblies (a

complete axle set). In addition to the shoes inspect all springs and brake shoe hardware for wear and

replace as necessary.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250 and Expedition Models

Remove the brake shoe retracting springs ...

... from both sides

Rotate the hold down spring retainer and ...

... remove the hold down spring from the primary brake shoe

Remove the primary shoe and unhook the adjusting spring from the shoe

Remove the adjusting screw

Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever cable

Remove the adjusting spring

Remove the adjusting lever return spring

Remove the anchor pin guide plate

Remove the parking brake strut

Remove the secondary shoe hold down spring and ...

Lift the secondary shoe from the backing plate

Remove the parking brake lever horseshoe clip apart and ...

... remove the washer from under the horseshoe clip and ...

... remove the secondary brake shoe from the parking brake lever

Thoroughly clean and ...

... lubricate the ...

... shoe contact points on the backing plate

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

When servicing drum brakes, only dissemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the

remaining side intact for reference.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

2. Contract the brake shoes by pulling the self-adjusting lever away from the starwheel adjustment

screw and turn the starwheel up and back until the pivot nut is drawn onto the starwheel as far

as it will come.

3. Pull the adjusting lever, cable and automatic adjuster spring down and toward the rear to unhook

the pivot hook from the large hole in the secondary shoe web. Do not attempt to pry the pivot

hook from the hole.

4. Remove the automatic adjuster spring and the adjusting lever.

5. Remove the secondary shoe-to-anchor spring. Remove the primary shoe-to-anchor spring and

unhook the cable anchor. Remove the anchor pin plate.

6. Remove the cable guide from the secondary shoe.

7. Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot nut, and socket. Note the

color of each hold-down spring for assembly. To remove the hold-down springs, reach behind

the brake backing plate and place one finger on the end of one of the brake hold-down spring

mounting pins. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the washer type retainer on top of the hold-down

spring that corresponds to the pin which you are holding. Push down on the pliers and turn them

90° to align the slot in the washer with the head on the spring mounting pin. Remove the spring

and washer retainer and repeat this operation on the hold down spring on the other shoe.

8. Remove the parking brake link and spring. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking

brake lever.

9. After removing the rear brake secondary shoe, disassemble the parking brake lever from the

shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring washer.

To install:

10. Assemble the parking brake lever to the secondary shoe and secure it with the spring washer and

retaining clip.

11. Apply a light coating of Lubriplate®, or equivalent, at the points where the brake shoes contact

the backing plate.

12. Position the brake shoes on the backing plate, and install the hold-down spring pins, springs,

and spring washer type retainers. On the rear brake, install the parking brake link, spring and

washer. Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.

13. Install the anchor pin plate, and place the cable anchor over the anchor pin with the crimped side

toward the backing plate.

14. Install the primary shoe-to-anchor spring with the brake tool.

15. Install the cable guide on the secondary shoe web with the flanged holes fitted into the hole in

the secondary shoe web. Thread the cable around the cable guide groove.

16. Install the secondary shoe-to-anchor (long) spring. Be sure that the cable end is not cocked or

binding on the anchor pin when installed. All of the parts should be flat on the anchor pin.

Remove the wheel cylinder piston clamp.

17. Apply Lubriplate®, or equivalent, to the threads and the socket end of the adjusting starwheel

screw. Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then

back off

1

/

2

turn.

Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screw assemblies from one side of the vehicle to

the other would cause the brake shoes to retract rather than expand each time the

automatic adjusting mechanism is operated. To prevent this, the socket end of the

adjusting screw is stamped with an "R" or an "L" for "RIGHT" or "LEFT". The adjusting

pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of lines machined around the body of the

nut; one line indicates left hand nut and two lines indicate a right hand nut.

18. Place the adjusting socket on the screw and install this assembly between the shoe ends with the

adjusting screw nearest to the secondary shoe.

19. Place the cable hook into the hole in the adjusting lever from the backing plate side. The

adjusting levers are stamped with an R (right) or a L (left) to indicate their installation on the right

or left hand brake assembly.

20. Position the hooked end of the adjuster spring in the primary shoe web and connect the loop end

of the spring to the adjuster lever hole.

21. Pull the adjuster lever, cable and automatic adjuster spring down toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the secondary shoe web.

22. After installation, check the action of the adjuster by pulling the section of the cable guide and

the adjusting lever toward the secondary shoe web far enough to lift the lever past a tooth on the

adjusting screw starwheel. The lever should snap into position behind the next tooth, and

release of the cable should cause the adjuster spring to return the lever to its original position.

This return action of the lever will turn the adjusting screw starwheel one tooth. The lever should

contact the adjusting screw starwheel one tooth above the centerline of the adjusting screw.

If the automatic adjusting mechanism does not perform properly, check the following:

23. Check the cable and fittings. The cable ends should fill or extend slightly beyond the crimped

section of the fittings. If this is not the case, replace the cable.

24. Check the cable guide for damage. The cable groove should be parallel to the shoe web, and the

body of the guide should lie flat against the web. Replace the cable guide if this is not so.

25. Check the pivot hook on the lever. The hook surfaces should be square with the body on the

lever for proper pivoting. Repair or replace the hook as necessary.

26. Make sure that the adjusting screw starwheel is properly seated in the notch in the shoe web.

1997-98 F-250 HD and F-350 Models

Rear drum brake assembled view— F-250 HD and F-350

Click to enlarge

Rear drum brake exploded view— F-250 HD and F-350

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheel and drum.

3. Remove the parking brake lever assembly retaining nut from behind the backing plate and

remove the parking brake lever assembly.

4. Remove the adjusting cable assembly from the anchor pin, cable guide, and adjusting lever.

CAUTION

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be

a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with

compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface!

When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake

cleaning fluid.

5. Remove the brake shoe retracting springs.

6. Remove the brake shoe hold-down spring from each shoe.

7. Remove the brake shoes and adjusting screw assembly.

8. Disassemble the adjusting screw assembly.

9. Clean the ledge pads on the backing plate. Apply a light coat of Lubriplate®, or equivalent, to the

ledge pads (where the brake shoes rub the backing plate).

To install:

10. Apply Lubriplate® to the adjusting screw assembly and the hold-down and retracting spring

contacts on the brake shoes.

11. Install the upper retracting spring on the primary and secondary shoes and position the shoe

assembly on the backing plate with the wheel cylinder pushrods in the shoe slots.

12. Install the brake shoe hold-down springs.

13. Install the brake shoe adjustment screw assembly with the slot in the head of the adjusting screw

toward the primary shoe, lower retracting spring, adjusting lever spring, adjusting lever

assembly, and connect the adjusting cable to the adjusting lever. Position the cable in the cable

guide and install the cable anchor fitting on the anchor pin.

14. Install the adjusting screw assemblies in the same locations from which they were removed.

Interchanging the brake shoe adjusting screws from one side of the vehicle to the other will

cause the brake shoes to retract rather than expand each time the automatic adjusting

mechanism is operated. To prevent incorrect installation, the socket end of each adjusting screw

is stamped with an R or an L to indicate their installation on the right or left side of the vehicle.

The adjusting pivot nuts can be distinguished by the number of lines machined around the body

of the nut. Two lines indicate a right hand nut; one line indicates a left hand nut.

15. Install the parking brake assembly in the anchor pin and secure with the retaining nut behind the

backing plate.

16. Adjust the brakes before installing the brake drums and wheels. Install the brake drums and

wheels.

17. Lower the vehicle and road test the brakes. New brakes may pull to one side or the other before

they are seated. Continued pulling or erratic braking should not occur.

ADJUSTMENTS

Use a gauge as shown to measure the brake shoes

Click to enlarge

Use a gauge as shown to measure the drum

Click to enlarge

Rear brake adjustment—F-150 and F-250

The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have

been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some

other service operation, as, for example, when taking off brake drums.

To adjust the brakes, perform the procedures that follow:

Drum Installed

1. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.

2. Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.

CAUTION

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be

a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with

compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface!

When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake

cleaning fluid.

3. Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the

starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and

expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.

4. Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push

the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it

there.

5. Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the

end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and

contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely

with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or

the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.

6. Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the

starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake

pull.

7. When the brakes are adjusted make several stops while backing the vehicle, to equalize the

brakes at both of the wheels.

8. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle. Road test the vehicle.

Drum Removed

CAUTION

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be

a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with

compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface!

When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake

cleaning fluid.

1. Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.

2. Using an inside caliper check the inside diameter of the drum. Measure across the diameter of

the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.

3. Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the

brake drum inner diameter.

4. Install the drum.

Wheel Cylinders

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Use a suitable size flare nut wrench to ...

... loosen the brake line fitting on the wheel cylinder

Remove the wheel cylinder retaining bolts and ...

... remove the wheel cylinder from the backing plate

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.

3. Remove the brake drum retainers, if equipped.

4. Grasp the brake drum and remove.

5. If the drum will not slide off with light force, then the brake shoes need to be backed off.

CAUTION

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be

a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with

compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface!

When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake

cleaning fluid.

6. Remove the brake drum.

7. Remove the brake shoes.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

8. Disconnect the brake line at the wheel cylinder.

9. Remove the 2 bolts securing the wheel cylinder to the backing plate and remove the wheel

cylinder.

To install:

10. Reinstall the wheel cylinder to the brake backing plate and install the 2 retaining bolts. Torque the

retaining bolts to 84-108 inch. lbs. (10-13 Nm).

11. Reconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder and torque the fitting to 10-18 ft. lbs. (14-24 Nm).

12. Lubricate the rear brake shoe contact points on the backing plate with an appropriate grease.

13. Install the brake shoes.

14. Make sure that the brake drum and brake shoes are clean of any oils or protective coatings.

15. Reinstall the brake drum.

16. Bleed the brake system of air until a firm pedal is achieved. Top off the brake fluid in the master

cylinder.

WARNING

Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper

operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest

quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes

contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master

cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid

that is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not

allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will

damage the paint.

17. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly.

18. Lower the vehicle.

19. Pump the brake pedal several times to assure a good pedal.

20. Road test the vehicle and check the brake system for proper operation.

OVERHAUL

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

Wheel cylinder overhaul kits may be available, but often at little or no savings over a reconditioned

wheel cylinder. It often makes sense with these components to substitute a new or reconditioned part

instead of attempting an overhaul.

If no replacement is available, or you would prefer to overhaul your wheel cylinders, the following

procedure may be used. When rebuilding and installing wheel cylinders, avoid getting any

contaminants into the system. Always use clean, new, high quality brake fluid. If dirty or improper

fluid has been used, it will be necessary to drain the entire system, flush the system with proper

brake fluid, replace all rubber components, then refill and bleed the system.

1. Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench.

2. First remove and discard the old rubber boots, then withdraw the pistons. Piston cylinders are

equipped with seals and a spring assembly, all located behind the pistons in the cylinder bore.

Remove the outer boots from the wheel cylinder

3. Remove the remaining inner components, seals and spring assembly. Compressed air may be

useful in removing these components. If no compressed air is available, be VERY careful not to

score the wheel cylinder bore when removing parts from it. Discard all components for which

replacements were supplied in the rebuild kit.

Compressed air can be used to remove the pistons and seals

Remove the pistons, cup seals and spring from the cylinder

4. Wash the cylinder and metal parts in denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid.

Use brake fluid and a soft brush to clean the pistons ...

... and the bore of the wheel cylinder

WARNING

Never use a mineral-based solvent such as gasoline, kerosene or

paint thinner for cleaning purposes. These solvents will swell rubber

components and quickly deteriorate them.

5. Allow the parts to air dry or use compressed air. Do not use rags for cleaning, since lint will

remain in the cylinder bore.

6. Inspect the piston and replace it if it shows scratches.

Once cleaned and inspected, the wheel cylinder is ready for assembly

Click to enlarge

7. Lubricate the cylinder bore and seals using clean brake fluid.

8. Position the spring assembly.

9. Install the inner seals, then the pistons.

Lubricate the cup seals with brake fluid

Install the spring, then the cup seals in the bore

Lightly lubricate the pistons, then install them

10. Insert the new boots into the counterbores by hand. Do not lubricate the boots.

The boots can now be installed over the wheel cylinder ends

11. Install the wheel cylinder.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Parking Brake

Cable(s)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

Parking brake cables—F-250HD and F-350

Click to enlarge

PARKING BRAKE CONTROL

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Loosen the adjusting nut at the equalizer.

3. Working in the engine compartment, remove the nuts attaching the parking brake control to the

firewall.

4. Remove the cable from the control assembly clevis by compressing the conduit end prongs.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the attaching nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

EQUALIZER-TO-CONTROL ASSEMBLY CABLE

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Back off the equalizer nut and disconnect the cable from the tension limiter.

3. Remove the parking brake cable from the mount.

4. Disconnect the forward end of the cable from the control assembly.

5. Using a cord attached to the upper end of the cable, pull the cable from the vehicle.

6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Adjust the parking brake.

EQUALIZER-TO-REAR WHEEL CABLE

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the wheels and brake drums.

3. Remove the tension limiter.

4. Remove the lock-nut from the threaded rod and disconnect the cable from the equalizer.

5. Disconnect the cable housing from the frame bracket and pull the cable and housing out of the

bracket.

6. Disconnect the cables from the brake backing plates.

7. With the spring tension removed from the lever, lift the cable out of the slot in the lever and

remove the cable through the backing plate hole.

8. Installation is the reverse of removal. On the F-250 and F-350, check the clearance between the

parking brake operating lever and the cam plate. Clearance should be 0.015 in. (0.38mm) with the

brakes fully released.

9. Adjust the brakes.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

FRONT CABLE

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. While an assistant relieves tension on the system by pulling on the parking brake intermediate

cable or the front brake cable insert a

5

/

32

inch (4mm) steel pin or equivalent drill bit into the hole

provided in the parking brake control assembly.

3. Disconnect the front cable from the parking brake cable equalizer.

4. Lower the vehicle.

5. Remove the front door scuff plate and cowl side trim panel.

6. Disconnect the brake cable from the parking brake control.

7. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

8. Pry the rubber seal from the floor pan and compress the cable retainer from the bracket.

9. Remove the front parking brake cable from the vehicle.

To install:

10. Feed the front parking brake cable through the hole in the front floor pan and secure the rubber

grommet.

11. Route the cable and conduit around the control assembly pulley and attach the cable to the

control assembly. Make sure the connector is locked in place.

12. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

13. Route the cable through the cable bracket and lock cable in place.

14. Connect the front parking brake cable to the parking brake cable equalizer.

15. Remove the steel pin or equivalent from the parking brake control assembly.

16. Operate the parking brake control several times and verify correct parking brake operation.

REAR CABLE

1. While an assistant relieves tension on the system by pulling on the parking brake intermediate

cable or the front brake cable insert a

5

/

32

inch (4mm) steel pin or equivalent drill bit into the hole

provided in the parking brake control assembly.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. Remove the brake drum.

5. Pull down on the front brake cable and disconnect the cable equalizer.

6. Compress the retainer and release the rear brake cable from the bracket.

7. Unclip the cable from the bracket.

8. Remove the brake shoes and lift the parking brake rear cable out of the slot in the parking brake

lever (attached to the secondary shoe).

9. On the wheel side of the backing plate, compress the retainer fingers with a

9

/

16

inch flare nut

wrench or equivalent and remove the rear cable through the hole in the backing plate.

To install:

10. Route the cable through the hole in the backing plate. Insert the cable anchor behind the slot in

the parking brake lever. Make sure the cable is securely engaged in the parking brake lever so

the cable return spring is holding the cable in the parking brake lever.

11. Push the retainer through the hole in the backing plate so the retainer prongs engage the backing

plate.

12. Insert the parking brake cable into the rear guide bracket.

13. Connect the cable to the cable bracket ensuring the retainer locks in place.

14. Connect the rear cable to the equalizer.

15. Install rear brake drum and adjust rear brakes, if needed.

16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

17. Partially lower the vehicle.

18. Apply and release the parking brake control several times. Rotate both wheels to ensure that the

parking brakes apply and release without dragging.

19. Lower the vehicle.

20. Verify proper parking brake operation.

ADJUSTMENT

1997-98 F-250HD and F-350

Before making any parking brake adjustment, make sure that the drum brakes are properly

adjusted.

BASIC ADJUSTMENT

1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.

2. The brake drums should be room temperature.

3. Make sure that the parking brake pedal is fully released.

4. While holding the tension equalizer, tighten the equalizer nut 6 full turns past its original position.

5. Fully depress the parking brake pedal. Using a cable tension gauge, check rear cable tension.

Cable tension should be 350 lbs. minimum.

6. Fully release the parking brake. No drag should be noted at the wheels.

7. If drag is noticed, remove the drums and adjust the clearance between the parking brake lever

and cam plate. Clearance should be 0.015 in. (0.38mm). Clearance is adjusted at the parking

brake equalizer adjusting nut.

INITIAL ADJUSTMENT WHEN THE TENSION LIMITER HAS BEEN REPLACED

1. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands.

2. Depress the parking brake pedal fully.

3. Hold the tension limiter, install the equalizer nut and tighten it to a point 2

1

/

2

in. +/-

1

/

8 in. (63.5mm

+/- 3mm) up the rod.

4. Check to make sure that the cinch strap has 1

3

/

8 in. (35mm) remaining.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator; 1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

The parking brake system is self-adjusting and requires no further adjustments.

Parking Brake Shoes

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Parking brake shoes—F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Click to enlarge

Make sure the parking brake control is fully released.

1. Relieve the tension on the parking brake system by pulling the front parking brake cable and

conduit and inserting a suitable retainer.

CAUTION

The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off

prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can

be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in

the rear jack storage area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected

inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of

the vehicle during these operations.

2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

3. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

WARNING

Do not let the rear disc brake caliper hang from caliper hose, use wire

to hang it aside.

4. Remove the rear brake disc caliper bolts.

5. Remove the rear brake disc caliper and position aside.

Be sure to remove square cut O-rings from hub before removing rear brake disc.

6. Remove the rear brake disc.

7. Remove the brake shoe retracting spring.

8. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.

9. Remove the brake adjuster screw.

10. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down springs.

11. Remove the rear brake shoes and linings along with the inboard brake shoe retracting spring.

12. Inspect the components for excessive wear or damage and install new components as required.

To install:

Lubricate the brake shoe contact point before installation of rear brake shoes using Silicone

Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A (Motorcraft WA-10) or an

equivalent silicone compound meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.

13. Install the rear brake shoes and linings along with the inboard brake shoe retracting spring.

14. Install the brake shoe hold-down springs.

15. Install the brake adjuster screw.

16. Install the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.

Install the outboard brake shoe retracting spring.

17. Use Brake Adjusting Gauge to measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear brake

disc.

18. Use Brake Adjusting Gauge to set the rear brake shoe and lining diameter to 0.020 inch (0.5 mm)

less than the inside diameter to the drum portion of the rear brake disc.

After rear brake disc has been installed, be sure to install the square cut O-ring in the hub

groove.

19. Install the rear brake disc.

20. Install the rear disc brake caliper.

21. Install the rear brake disc caliper-to-rear brake disc caliper anchor plate bolts.

22. Clean the wheel hub mounting surface.

23. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

24. If equipped with air suspension, reactivate the system by turning on the air suspension switch.

25. Lower the vehicle.

26. Apply tension to the parking brake cable system.

27. Hold the front parking brake cable and conduit taut.

28. Remove the retainer from the parking brake control.

29. Check the operation of the parking brake.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

Parking brake shoes—1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

3. Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

4. Disconnect the rear parking brake cable at the parking brake cable equalizer.

5. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the parking brake lever.

6. Remove the outboard brake shoe retracting spring.

7. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.

8. Remove the brake shoe hold-down springs.

9. Remove the brake adjuster screw.

10. Remove the parking brake shoe and linings along with the inboard brake shoe retracting spring.

11. Inspect the components for excessive wear or damage and replace as required.

To install:

Make sure the inboard brake shoe retracting spring is attached to the parking brake shoe.

12. Install the LH parking brake shoe and brake shoe hold-down spring, along with the inboard brake

shoe retracting spring.

13. Connect the inboard brake shoe retracting spring to the RH parking brake shoe, and install the

RH parking brake shoe and the brake shoe hold-down spring.

14. Install the brake adjuster screw.

15. Install the brake shoe adjusting screw spring.

The outboard brake shoe retracting spring mounts above the inboard brake shoe retracting

spring.

16. Install the outboard brake shoe retracting spring.

17. Connect the parking brake cable at the parking brake lever.

18. Connect the rear parking brake cable at the parking brake cable equalizer.

19. Install the rear disc brake rotor.

20. Use the Brake Adjusting Gauge to set the rear brake shoe and lining diameter to 0.030 inch (0.75

mm) less than the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

21. Install the tire and wheel assembly.

22. Lower the vehicle.

ADJUSTMENT

The parking brake system is self-adjusting and requires no further adjustments.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Transmission Mounted Parking Brake

This system is found on F-Super Duty models only. To replace the brake shoes, or any other

component, the unit must be disassembled.

REMOVAL

F-Super Duty parking brake shoe return spring installation

Click to enlarge

F-Super Duty parking brake unit removal

Click to enlarge

F-Super Duty parking brake cables

Click to enlarge

Removing the parking brake mainshaft lock-nut

Click to enlarge

Removing the F-Super Duty parking brake output flange

Click to enlarge

Removing the F-Super Duty parking brake splash shield

Click to enlarge

Removing the F-Super Duty parking brake outer bearing cup

Click to enlarge

1. Place the transmission in gear.

2. Fully release the parking brake pedal.

3. Raise and support the truck on jackstands.

4. Spray penetrating oil on the adjusting clevis, jam nut and threaded end of the cable.

5. Loosen the jam nut and remove the locking pin from the clevis pin.

6. Remove the clevis pin, clevis and jam nut from the cable.

7. Remove the cable from the bracket on the case.

8. Matchmark the driveshaft and disconnect it from the flange.

9. Remove the 6 hex-head bolts securing the parking brake unit to the transmission extension

housing and lift off the unit.

The unit is filled with Ford Type H ATF.

CAUTION

Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be

a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with

compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface!

When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake

cleaning fluid.

DISASSEMBLY

Several special tools and a hydraulic press are necessary.

1. Remove the unit from the truck.

2. Remove the 4 bolts securing the yoke flange and drum, and remove the flange and drum.

3. Remove the 75mm hex nut from the mainshaft, using tool T88T-2598-G, or equivalent.

4. Press the mainshaft, drum and output flange from the case.

ASSEMBLY

5. Remove the speedometer drive gear from the case.

6. Using tools D80L-1002-2, D79L-4621-A and D80L-630-6, remove the outer bearing cone from the

mainshaft.

7. Place the threaded end of the output shaft in a soft-jawed vise.

8. Matchmark the drum, flange/yoke and mainshaft. Remove the 4 nuts securing the flange and

drum to the output shaft and remove the flange and drum.

9. Using tool T77F-1102-A, remove the input shaft oil seal, spacer, O-ring, bearing cone and race

from the input shaft end of the case.

10. Remove the 4 bolts securing the splash shield and brake assembly from the case. Remove the

brake assembly and splash shield.

11. Remove the brake actuating lever and spring from the case.

12. Using tool T77F-1102-A, remove the outer bearing cup and oil seal.

13. Unscrew the vent from the case.

14. Hold the brake assembly securely and remove the 2 brake sure return springs.

15. Spread the free ends of the shoes and remove the shoes from the lower anchor pin. Remove the

shoe-to-shoe spring.

Exploded view of the F-Super Duty parking brake shoes

Click to enlarge

Assembling the F-Super Duty parking brake shoes

Click to enlarge

1. Clean the brake assembly thoroughly with a brake cleaning solvent.

2. Using a brake caliper grease, place a light coating on:

Camshaft lugs and ball on the actuating lever

Shoe guide lugs and support pads on the support plate

Upper and lower anchor pins

Brake shoe anchor pin contact points

3. Connect a NEW shoe-to-shoe spring between the brake shoes, spread the shoes and position

them on the lower anchor pin.

4. Position the upper ends on the upper anchor pin, inserting the show webs between the shoe

guide lugs and the pads on the support plate.

5. Install 2 NEW return springs.

6. Drive a new inner bearing race into place.

7. Drive a new outer bearing race into the case making sure it bottoms evenly.

8. Install a new outer bearing.

9. Coat the outer edge of a new outer oil seal with sealer and drive the seal into place with the lip

facing inward. The seal must be flush with the bore surface.

10. Install the actuating lever spring.

11. Apply a light coating of brake grease on the actuating lever ball and install the lever through the

coiled end of the spring.

12. Position the brake assembly into the case. Insert the lever into position in the brake assembly.

13. Tighten the 4 brake assembly attaching bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).

14. Attach the retracting spring to the actuating lever while bending the long end to snap over the

lever.

15. Place the mainshaft in a soft-jawed vise with the flanged end upward.

16. Install the brake drum and output flange onto the mainshaft, being aware of the matchmarks.

17. Install the 4 nuts and tighten them to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).

18. Turn the mainshaft over and clamp it in the vise.

19. Install the case, with the outer bearing installed loosely on the mainshaft, guiding the mainshaft

through the oil seal and bearing cone.

20. Install the outer bearing cone on the mainshaft using tool T88T-2598-F, or equivalent, to seat the

bearing on the shaft.

21. Install the speedometer gear and snap-ring.

22. Install the shim on the mainshaft.

This shim determines end-play. It is available in several thickness with variations of 0.0019

in. (0.05mm).

23. Install the inner bearing cone and spacer on the mainshaft.

To check end-play, first install the inner bearing spacer without the O-ring.

24. Thread the 75mm nut onto the shaft and tighten it to 215 ft. lbs. (292 Nm).

25. Mount a dial indicator and bracket with the dial indicator between the mainshaft and case to

check end-play. While rotating the case assembly on the mainshaft to center the bearings, apply

pressure up and down. An end-play reading of 0.0019-0.0039 in. (0.05-0.10mm) is desired. Shim

as necessary.

26. Remove the 75mm nut, spacer and bearing to install the shim(s).

27. Install the bearing.

28. Coat the outer edge of a new seal with sealer and seat it in the case bore with the lip facing

inward.

29. Install a new O-ring in the spacer and install the spacer on the mainshaft until it butts against the

shoulder of the shaft.

30. Install a NEW 75mm nut and tighten it to 215 ft. lbs. (292 Nm).

31. Install the vent.

INSTALLATION

1. Refill the unit through the filler plug to the bottom of the plug hole. Install the plug and tighten it

to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

2. Position the unit on the extension housing using 2 guide pins.

3. Using 6 NEW hex-bolts, attach the unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

4. Connect the driveshaft and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

5. Assemble the cable components. Screw on the clevis until the pin can be inserted while the lever

and cable are held tightly in the applied position. Then, remove the pin, let go of the cable and

lever, and turn the clevis 10 full turns counterclockwise (loosen).

6. Install the pin.

ADJUSTMENT

To replace the brake shoes, or any other component, the parking brake cable must be

disconnected.

1. Place the transmission in gear.

2. Fully release the parking brake pedal.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

4. Spray penetrating oil on the adjusting clevis, jam nut and threaded end of the cable.

5. Loosen the jam nut and remove the locking pin from the clevis pin.

6. Remove the clevis pin, clevis and jam nut from the cable.

7. Remove the cable from the bracket on the case.

8. Matchmark the driveshaft and disconnect it from the flange.

9. Remove the 6 hex-head bolts securing the parking brake unit to the transmission extension

housing and lift off the unit.

The unit is filled with Ford Type H automatic transmission fluid.

To install:

10. Refill the unit through the filler plug to the bottom of the plug hole. Install the plug and tighten it

to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

11. Position the unit on the extension housing using 2 guide pins.

12. Using 6 NEW hex-bolts, attach the unit and torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

13. Connect the driveshaft and torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

14. Assemble the cable components. Screw on the clevis until the pin can be inserted while the lever

and cable are held tightly in the applied position. Then, remove the pin, let go of the cable and

lever and turn the clevis 10 full turns counterclockwise (loosen).

15. Install the pin.

Installing the F-Super Duty actuating lever

Installing the speedometer drive gear on the F-Super Duty parking brake

Installing the inner bearing cone and shim on the F-Super Duty parking brake

Click to enlarge

Measuring end-play on the F-Super Duty parking brake

Click to enlarge

Installing the inner seal on the F-Super Duty parking brake

Click to enlarge

F-Super Duty parking brake adjustment points

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Rear Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (RABS)

General Information

The Rear Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (RABS) is an electronically operated, hydraulically controlled

rear wheel brake control system. Major components include the vacuum power brake booster, master

cylinder, the speed sensor, and the control valve or Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) and the control

module.

The system is designed to retard rear wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking.

Retarding the rear wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the rear wheel brake

circuit. When the control module detects a variation in voltage across the speed sensor, the RABS is

activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU/control unit.

These valves, called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the rear wheels

by applying and venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits.

Diagnosis and Testing

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE RETRIEVAL

Except 1999-00 Super Duty Models

RABS diagnostic trouble codes—Except 1999-00 Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to

ground. Attaching the mating connector wire to ground will result in a

blown fuse.

Verify the ignition switch is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the

black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector has two mating halves, one of which

has a black/orange wire connected to it. Detach the two connector halves. Attach one end of a

jumper wire to the black/orange wire side of the diagnostic connector. Ground the opposite end of

the jumper wire by connecting it to a ground until the ABS light begins to flash. Grounding this wire

should start the yellow ABS warning indicator flashing.

The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and

include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short

flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble code 4. The code will continue to

repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it

several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions. It should be written down

for future use. A diagnostic trouble code 16 is obtained when the anti-lock brake control module

detects normal system operation.

1999-00 Super Duty Models

The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are retrieved using a scan tool, such as Rotunda NGS Tester 007-

00500 or its equivalent. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for operating the tool and retrieving

the codes.

The Data Link Connector (DLC) for the ABS is the OBDII connector located under the driver's side of

the instrument panel, underneath the steering column.

Click to enlarge

ERASING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

Except 1999-00 Super Duty Models

The last step of the system pre-check always includes clearing the keep alive memory (KAM). Turn off

the ignition while the diagnostic connector halves are separated as described in retrieving diagnostic

trouble codes in this section. The diagnostic connector should be re-assembled to provide KAM power

to the anti-lock brake control module.

1999-00 Super Duty Models

The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are cleared using a scan tool, such as Rotunda NGS Tester 007-

00500 or its equivalent. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for operating the tool and clearing

the codes.

Speed Sensor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Detach the connector on the speed sensor

Remove the sensor hold-down bolt and ...

Remove the sensor

Click to enlarge

The sensor is located on the rear axle housing.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Carefully clean the axle surface to keep dirt from entering the housing.

3. Detach the connector on the speed sensor.

4. Remove the sensor hold-down bolt.

5. Remove the sensor.

6. If a new sensor is being installed, lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. Carefully push the

sensor into the housing aligning the mounting flange hole with the threaded hole in the housing.

Tighten the hold-down bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)—If the old sensor is being installed, clean it

thoroughly and install a new O-ring coated with clean engine oil.

7. Attach the connector on the speed sensor.

8. Lower the vehicle.

Tone (Exciter) Ring

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The exciter ring is located in the differential case inside the axle housing on the rear gear. The rear

differential must be disassembled to replace the ring. Refer to Section 7 .

Control Valve

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty; F-150 and F-250

Rear anti-lock braking system valve—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

The valve is located on the frame rail, under the vehicle on the driver's side on the 1997-98 F-250HD,

F-350 and F-Super Duty. The valve is located in the brake lines, below the master cylinder.

1. Disconnect the brake lines from the valve and plug the lines.

2. Disconnect the wiring harness at the valve.

3. Remove the 3 nuts retaining the valve to the frame rail and lift out the valve.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't overtighten the brake lines. Bleed the brakes.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Remove rubber dust cover

Detach the anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors

Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines

Remove the HCU bracket and remove the HCU

WARNING

Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If

exposed to these charges, damage may result.

1. On diesel engine equipped vehicles, remove the battery tray.

2. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, disconnect the battery tray ground cable.

3. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, remove the engine air cleaner assembly.

4. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, remove the EVAP canister.

5. Remove rubber dust cover.

6. Remove pushpin.

7. Detach the anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

WARNING

Plug each port to prevent brake fluid from spilling.

8. Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines.

9. Remove the HCU bracket

10. Remove the HCU.

11. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

12. Bleed the RABS system.

Control Module

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Rear anti-lock braking system module

Click to enlarge

The module is located on the firewall just inboard of the master cylinder.

1. Disconnect the wiring harness.

2. Remove the 2 attaching screws and lift out the module.

3. Installation is the reverse of removal.

F-150 and F-250

WARNING

Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If

exposed to these charges, damage may result.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument panel cluster panel. Refer to Section 6 .

3. Detach the anti-lock brake control module electrical connector.

4. Remove the module retaining bolts.

5. Remove the anti-lock brake control module.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Control module mounting—1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

WARNING

Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If

exposed to these charges, damage may result.

1. On diesel engine equipped vehicles, remove the battery tray.

2. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, disconnect the battery ground cable.

3. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, remove the engine air cleaner.

4. On gasoline engine equipped vehicles, remove the EVAP canister.

5. Remove rubber dust cover.

6. Remove pushpin.

7. Detach the three anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors.

8. Remove the screw.

9. Lift and remove the anti-lock brake control module.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Bleeding the ABS System

The RABS system is bleed in the same manner as a conventional brake system. Refer to brake

bleeding in this section.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)

General Information

The 4-Wheel Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is an electronically operated, all wheel brake control

system. Major components include the power brake booster, master cylinder, the wheel speed

sensors, and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) which contains the control module, a relay, and the

pressure control valves.

The system is designed to retard wheel lockup during periods of high wheel slip when braking.

Retarding wheel lockup is accomplished by modulating fluid pressure to the wheel brake units. When

the control module detects a variation in voltage across the wheel speed sensors, the ABS is

activated. The control module opens and closes various valves located inside the HCU. These valves,

called dump and isolation valves, modulate the hydraulic pressure to the wheels by applying and

venting the pressure to the brake fluid circuits.

Diagnosis and Testing

The ABS module performs system tests and self-tests during startup and normal operation. The

valves, wheel sensors and fluid level circuits are monitored for proper operation. If a fault is found,

the ABS will be deactivated and the amber ANTI LOCK light will be lit until the ignition is turned OFF.

When the light is lit, the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may be obtained. Under normal operation,

the light will stay on for about 2 seconds while the ignition switch is in the ON position and will go out

shortly after.

The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are an alphanumeric code and a scan tool, such as Rotunda NGS

Tester 007-00500 or its equivalent, is required to retrieve the codes. Refer to the manufacturer's

instructions for operating the tool and retrieving the codes.

The data link connector (DLC) for the ABS is the OBDII connector located under the driver's side of

the instrument panel, underneath the steering column.

Click to enlarge

Speed Sensors

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

Wheel speed sensor mounting—4 X 2 models

Wheel speed sensor mounting—4 X 4 models

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

3. On 4 X 4 models except for F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, remove the disc brake rotor

shield.

4. On 4 X 4 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models, remove the disc brake rotor.

5. Detach the front anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.

Rear

6. Separate the sensor cable from the brake hose clips.

7. Remove the front anti-lock brake sensor bolt and the front anti-lock brake sensor.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Detach the connector on the speed sensor

Remove the sensor hold-down bolt and ...

Remove the sensor

Click to enlarge

The sensor is located on the rear axle housing.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Carefully clean the axle surface to keep dirt from entering the housing.

3. Detach the connector on the speed sensor.

4. Remove the sensor hold-down bolt.

5. Remove the sensor.

6. If a new sensor is being installed, lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. Carefully push the

sensor into the housing aligning the mounting flange hole with the threaded hole in the housing.

Tighten the hold-down bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)—If the old sensor is being installed, clean it

thoroughly and install a new O-ring coated with clean engine oil.

7. Attach the connector on the speed sensor.

8. Lower the vehicle.

Tone (Exciter) Ring

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

4 X 2 MODELS

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.

2. Remove the wheels.

3. Remove the caliper, rotor and hub.

4. Using a 3-jawed puller, remove the ring from the hub. The ring cannot be reused; it must be

replaced.

To install:

5. Support the hub in a press so that the lug studs do not rest on the work surface.

6. Position the new sensor ring on the hub. Using a cylindrical adapter 98mm IDx106mm OD, press

the ring into place. The ring must be fully seated!

7. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

Front wheel sensor ring removal and installation—4-wheel ABS

Click to enlarge

4 X 4 MODELS

Rear

The exciter ring is integral to the hub assembly. Refer to Section 7 .

The exciter ring is located in the differential case inside the axle housing on the rear gear. The rear

differential must be disassembled to replace the ring. Refer to Section 7 .

Hydraulic Control Unit

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Disconnect and plug the hydraulic brake lines

Remove the HCU retaining bolts and remove the HCU

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. On Super Duty models, remove the air cleaner assembly.

3. On Super Duty models, remove the EVAP canister.

4. Detach the anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors.

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

5. Disconnect and plug the hydraulic brake lines.

6. Remove the HCU retaining bolts and remove the HCU.

7. If necessary, remove the HCU bracket.

To install:

8. If removed, install the HCU bracket.

9. Position the HCU.

10. Install and tighten the retaining bolts.

11. Connect the hydraulic brake lines.

12. Connect the anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors.

13. On Super Duty models, install the EVAP canister.

14. On Super Duty models, install the air cleaner assembly.

15. Connect the negative battery cable.

16. Bleed the 4-wheel ABS.

Control Module

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the module retaining screws and remove the anti-lock brake control module

WARNING

Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If

exposed to these charges, damage may result.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Detach the anti-lock brake control module electrical connectors.

3. Remove the module retaining screws and remove the anti-lock brake control module.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Bleeding the ABS System

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

If equipped with the 4 wheel anti-lock brake system and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)

has been replaced or is suspected of containing trapped air, bleed the brake system using

the procedure below. Conventional brake system bleeding cannot remove the air trapped

in the lower portion of the HCU.

If a spongy brake pedal is present and air in the hydraulic control unit is suspected, use the following

procedure:

1. Bleed the brake system as outlined in the conventional bleeding procedure.

2. Connect a New Generation Star (NGS) tester or equivalent scan tool, to the serial data link

connector below the instrument panel as though retrieving codes.

3. Make sure the ignition switch is in the RUN position.

4. Follow the instructions on the NGS screen. Verify correct vehicle and model year go to the

"Diagnostic Data Link" menu item, choose ABS Module, choose "Function Tests", and choose

"Service Bleed".

WARNING

Do not allow the brake master cylinder to run dry of brake fluid during

the brake bleeding procedure. Only use new DOT 3 or equivalent

brake fluid from a closed container.

5. Bleed the right-front wheel as follows:

1. Open the caliper bleed screw and pump the brake pedal for

3 seconds. Repeat the procedure again.

2. When the fluid runs clear, begin the program and continue

to pump the brake pedal.

3. Continue bleeding for approximately 1 to 2 minutes after

the program ends and then tighten the bleed screw.

6. Repeat the bleeding procedure to the left-front, left-rear and finally the right-rear wheel.

7. Remove the pressure bleeding device and adjust the brake fluid level.

8. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Brake Specifications Chart

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Exterior

Doors

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the door hinge-to-body bolts

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove any trim necessary to access the electrical connector inside the front door.

3. Detach the electrical connector inside the door and pull the wire harness out of the front door.

4. Matchmark the hinge-to-body and hinge-to-door locations.

5. Support the door either on jackstands or have somebody hold it for you.

6. Remove the lower hinge-to-door bolts.

7. Remove the upper hinge-to-door bolts and lift the door off the hinges.

8. If the hinges are being replaced, remove them from the door pillar.

To install:

9. Install the door and hinges with the bolts finger tight.

10. Adjust the door and tighten the hinge bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).

11. Install the wire harness into the door opening.

12. Attach the electrical connector inside the front door.

13. Install any trim removed from the door.

14. Connect the negative battery cable.

ADJUSTMENT

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Door hinge adjustment

Click to enlarge

Rear door hinge adjustment, F-350 Crew Cab

Click to enlarge

Loosen the hinge-to-door bolts for lateral adjustment only. Loosen the hinge-to-body bolts

for both lateral and vertical adjustment.

1. Determine which hinge bolts are to be loosened and back them out just enough to allow

movement.

2. To move the door safely, use a padded prybar. When the door is in the proper position, tighten

the bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm) and check the door operation. There should be no binding or

interference when the door is closed and opened.

3. Door closing adjustment can also be affected by the position of the lock striker plate. Loosen the

striker plate bolts and move the striker plate just enough to permit proper closing and locking of

the door.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the front door hinge to front door bolts.

2. Adjust the front door alignment.

3. Tighten the front door hinge to front door bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).

FRONT DOOR FORE AND AFT ADJUSTMENT

Check the rear door hinge adjustment before adjusting the front door hinge.

1. Remove the front fender.

2. Loosen the front door hinge to body bolts.

3. Adjust the front door alignment to specification.

4. Tighten the front door hinge to body bolts.

5. Install the front fender.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

DOOR ADJUSTMENT

The following procedure is for performing fore, aft, up, down and tilt adjustments.

1. Remove the door striker.

2. Loosen the bolts only enough to allow for slight door movement.

3. Carefully close and adjust the door until flush with the adjacent body panels.

4. Carefully open the door and tighten the bolts.

5. Re-install and adjust the door striker.

6. Check the door for proper operation and alignment.

STRIKER ADJUSTMENT

Loosen the striker mounting bolt

Mark the position of the striker before loosening.

1. Loosen the striker retaining bolts.

2. Adjust the door striker and tighten the striker retaining bolts.

Hood

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Detach the connector for the underhood lamp and ...

... disengage the underhood lamp harness retaining clips and remove the harness from

the hood

Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the washer jet nipple and ...

... disengage the hose retaining clips and remove the hose from the hood

Release the hood lift-to-body retaining clips and remove the hood lifts from the pivot ball

Matchmark the hood-to-hinge position

While an assistant supports the hood, remove the hinge bolts from one side of the hood

A good way to keep track of the hood hinge-to-hood bolts is to install the bolts into the

hood while storing the hood

You'll need an assistant for this job.

1. Open the hood.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Detach any electrical connectors, washer fluid lines, or any other components necessary for

hood removal.

4. On all models except for 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty:

1. Support the hood with a bar, long sturdy handle or have an

assistant hold it.

2. Release the hood lift-to-body retaining clips and remove the

hood lifts from the pivot ball.

5. Matchmark the hood-to-hinge position.

6. While an assistant supports the hood, remove the hinge bolts from one side of the hood.

7. Repeat the procedure for the other side.

8. Carefully lift and remove the hood taking care not to scratch the paint.

9. Place the hood in a safe place and place rags around the painted surfaces that will make contact

with the ground or other surface on which it is placed.

To install:

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal. Tighten the hinge bolts to19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).

ALIGNMENT

1. Open the hood.

2. Loosen the hinge-to-hood bolts just enough to allow movement of the hood.

3. Move the hood as required to obtain the proper fit and alignment between the hood and the top of

the cowl panel.

4. Tighten the hood-to-hinge bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).

5. Lubricate the latch and hinges and check the hood fit several times.

Tailgate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Grasp the tailgate support cable and ...

... lift the cable from the pillar T-head pivot

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty tailgate

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the tailgate support or strap or cable at the pillar T-head pivot.

2. Lift off the tailgate at the right hinge.

3. Pull off the left hinge.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

ALIGNMENT

Loosen the striker bolts and move the strikers until the tailgate is aligned. Tighten the striker bolts.

Liftgate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the liftgate hinge-to-body bolts

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the trim and detach the harness connector for the liftgate.

3. Have an assistant support the liftgate.

4. Remove the liftgate hinge-to-body bolts.

5. Remove the liftgate from the vehicle.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

7. Tighten the liftgate hinge-to-body bolts to 91-123 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).

ALIGNMENT

1. Loosen the liftgate hinge to liftgate bolts.

2. Adjust the liftgate alignment.

3. Tighten the liftgate hinge to liftgate bolts.

4. Tighten the liftgate hinge-to-liftgate bolts to 91-123 inch lbs. (10-14 Nm).

Grille

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Grille installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Open the hood.

2. Remove the screws securing the top of the grille to the front valance panel.

3. Remove the screws securing the top of the grille to the radiator grille opening panel

reinforcement.

4. Remove the grille.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

Remove the eight stone guard pin-type retainers (four on each side)

Remove the ten radiator grille screws

1. Raise and support the hood.

2. Remove the service jack handle.

3. Remove the retaining screws and remove front upper air deflector.

4. Remove the headlamps.

5. Remove the combination lamps.

6. Remove the eight stone guard pin-type retainers (four on each side).

7. Remove the ten radiator grille screws.

8. Release the clips from the radiator grille opening panel reinforcement.

9. Remove the radiator grille.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Navigator

The grille on the Navigator is part of the hood assembly. Refer to hood removal and installation in this

section.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

Remove the grille retaining screws

Release the lower retainers and remove the grille assembly

1. Remove the grille retaining screws.

2. Release the lower retainers.

3. Remove the radiator grille.

To install:

4. Position the radiator grille in the grille opening.

5. Secure the radiator grille retainers by pushing into place.

6. Install the retaining screws.

Outside Mirrors

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

DUAL POSITION RECREATION SWING-OUT MIRROR

Dual position recreation swing-out mirror mounting

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the four mirror retaining screws .

2. Remove the mirror from the door.

3. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WESTER TYPE SWING-AWAY MIRROR

Western type swing-away mirror mounting

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the four mirror retaining screws .

2. Remove the mirror from the door.

3. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

POWER MIRROR

Power mirror mounting—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the front door trim panel.

3. Remove the front door watershield.

4. Detach the power mirror electrical connector.

5. Remove the two screws retaining the mirror to the outside of the door.

6. Remove the one screw retaining the mirror to the inside of the door.

7. Remove the mirror from the door.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Except 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Remove the mirror sail cover to gain access to the mirror retaining nuts

Remove the outside rear view mirror nuts and ...

... remove the outside rear view mirror

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the front door trim panel.

3. Remove the mirror sail cover to gain access to the mirror retaining nuts.

4. If equipped with power mirrors, detach the power mirror electrical connector.

5. Disconnect the power mirror wiring clip.

6. Remove the outside rear view mirror nuts.

7. Remove the outside rear view mirror and feed the power mirror wiring through the opening in the

front door.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Antenna

REPLACEMENT

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty Models

Antenna mounting—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the radio from the instrument panel and detach the antenna cable from the radio.

2. Remove the antenna cable from retaining clips along the bottom of the instrument panel.

3. Remove the antenna mast from the base by unscrewing it.

4. Unsnap the cap from the antenna base and remove the cap.

5. Remove the 4 screws and lift off the antenna.

6. Detach the antenna cable from the antenna base.

7. Remove the antenna base from the vehicle.

8. Installation is the reverse of removal.

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

1. Remove the antenna mast from the base by unscrewing it.

2. Remove the 3 screws and lift off the antenna.

3. Detach the antenna cable from the antenna base.

4. Remove the antenna base from the vehicle.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

Remove the passenger side cowl top vent panel cover

Remove the 3 screws and lift off the antenna

Detach the antenna cable from the antenna base

1. Remove the passenger side cowl top vent panel cover.

2. Remove the antenna mast from the base by unscrewing it.

3. Remove the 3 screws and lift off the antenna.

4. Detach the antenna cable from the antenna base.

5. Remove the antenna base from the vehicle.

6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Fenders

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

Right front fender installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

Click to enlarge

Right front fender apron installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

Click to enlarge

1. Clean all fender fasteners and liberally apply penetrating oil.

2. Remove the headlamp assemblies.

3. Remove the fender-to-radiator support screws.

4. Remove the screw attaching the fender to the lower corner of the cab.

5. Remove the screw inside the cab attaching the lower end of the fender to the cowl.

6. Remove the screws attaching the top edge of the fender to the cowl extension.

7. Remove the screws that attach the fender to the apron, around the wheel opening.

8. Remove the top fender-to-apron bolts.

9. On the right side, remove the battery and the battery tray.

10. On the driver's side, remove the auxiliary battery and/or tool box (both are options).

11. On the right side, detach the main wiring harness from the fender.

12. On the driver's side, detach the hood latch cable from the fender.

13. Remove the hood prop spring from the fender.

14. Remove the fender.

To install:

15. Apply sealer to the upper edge of the apron.

16. Position the fender on the truck and loosely install all screws nuts and bolts.

17. Go around the fender and check its fit. Position the fender for even fit with all adjoining panels

and tighten all the fasteners.

18. Install all parts removed previously.

F-150, F-250 and Expedition

1. Remove the radiator grille opening panel reinforcement.

2. If equipped, remove the front wheel opening moulding.

3. Remove the front fender splash shield.

4. Remove the cowl grille.

5. On the passenger side front fender:

1. Remove the antenna mast.

2. Remove the antenna base by gently inserting a thin

straight-edged screwdriver underneath the cap and

carefully following inside the perimeter until both snaps

are free.

3. Remove the screws and lift the antenna base.

4. Disconnect the radio antenna lead-in cable and remove the

antenna base.

6. Remove the fender stuffer.

7. Remove the stone guard.

8. Remove the front fender retaining bolts.

9. Remove the fender from the body.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Navigator

1. Remove the cowl top vent panels.

2. Remove the jack handle.

3. Remove the air deflector.

4. Remove the headlamp mounting clips and remove the headlamp.

5. Detach the electrical connectors.

6. Remove the radiator opening cover.

7. Remove the driver's side radiator grille opening panel reinforcement bolts.

8. Remove the center radiator grille opening panel reinforcement bolts.

9. Remove the passenger side radiator grille opening panel reinforcement bolts.

10. Remove the radiator grille opening panel reinforcement-to-front fender bolt.

11. On the passenger side front fender, remove the antenna mast.

12. On passenger side front fender, remove the antenna base by gently inserting a thin straightedged screwdriver underneath the cap and carefully following inside the perimeter until both

snaps are free.

13. Remove the screws and lift the antenna base.

14. Disconnect the radio antenna lead-in cable and remove the antenna base.

15. Remove the lower rear screw from the front wheel opening moulding.

16. Remove the lower rear pushpin from the front wheel opening moulding.

17. Remove the front fender splash shield.

18. Remove the front fender splash shield

19. Remove the front bumper cover to front fender nuts.

20. Remove the concealed radiator grille opening panel reinforcement nut.

21. Carefully position the radiator grille opening panel slightly forward.

22. Remove the inner fender stuffer.

23. Remove the front fender retaining bolts.

24. Remove the fender from the body.

25. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

26. Tighten the fender retaining bolts to 94-120 inch lbs. (11-14 Nm).

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

Remove the screws at the lower edge of the front fender securing the splash shield

Remove the bolts securing the lower rear of the front fender

Remove the fender-to-radiator grille opening support retaining bolts

Remove the fender-to-radiator support retaining screws

Open the door, then remove the fender retaining bolts

Remove the upper fender retaining bolts

Remove the hood support bolt

1. Support the hood using a prop rod.

2. Disconnect the hood lifts.

3. Remove the headlights and turn signals.

4. Remove the screws at the lower edge of the front fender securing the splash shield.

5. If equipped, remove the running board.

6. Remove the pushpins at the rear lower edge of the front fender.

7. Remove the bolts securing the lower rear of the front fender.

8. Remove the fender-to-radiator grille opening support retaining bolts.

9. Remove the fender-to-radiator support retaining screws.

10. Open the door, then remove the fender retaining bolts.

11. Remove the upper fender retaining bolts.

12. Remove the hood support bolt.

13. Remove the front fender.

14. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Body Mount Bushings

REPLACEMENT

Typical body mount location for the F-150, 250, 350 and F-Super Duty chassis/cab

Click to enlarge

The body mount bushings are replaced on an individual basis. The easiest way to replace the bushings

is to support the frame under the mount using a jackstand or other suitable device. Remove the

mount through-bolt and remove the bolt. Raise the frame sufficiently enough to access and remove

the bushings. Replace the bushings, lower the frame and install and tighten the through-bolt.

Remove the jackstands or other support device.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Interior

Instrument Panel and Pad

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Instrument panel installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

On vehicles equipped with air bags, please refer to Section 6 for

arming, disarming and precautions. Accidental deployment of the air

bag system can cause serious personal injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Unplug the connectors from the instrument panel rear lamp wiring and the engine control sensor

wiring in the engine compartment by loosening the bolts and separating the connectors.

3. Remove the radio as outlined in Section 6 .

4. Remove the right and driver's side windshield side garnish moldings.

5. Remove the 4 screws attaching the top of the instrument panel to the cowl.

6. Remove the 2 screws attaching the instrument panel steering column opening cover assembly to

the underside of the instrument panel.

7. Remove the cover by pulling up at the top of the cover and unsnapping the 4 retaining clips.

8. Pull the antenna lead-in cable down and unsnap the wire from the bottom of the instrument panel

and lay the wire down on the floor out of the way.

9. Remove the bolt attaching the instrument panel to the panel brace. Some vehicles may have 2

lower braces.

10. Remove the screw and washer assembly located at the lower corner on the passenger side of the

instrument panel.

11. Unplug the wiring connectors from the main wiring harness at the right cowl side panel.

12. Unplug the wiring connector from the parking brake control.

13. Remove the 3 nuts attaching the parking brake control to the driver's side cowl panel and lay on

the floor. Do not disconnect the parking brake cable.

14. On vehicles with column shift; disconnect the shift cable from the steering column shift cable

bracket.

15. Unplug the wiring connector from the brake light switch.

16. On vehicles with manual transmission; unplug the wiring connector from the clutch interlock

switch.

17. Unplug the wiring connectors from the main wiring harness at the left cowl side panel.

18. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering column to the lower steering column shaft. Move the

lower steering column shaft toward the engine and separate from the column U-joint.

19. With the aid of an assistant, support the instrument panel and remove the 3 bolts and 1 nut

attaching the driver's side of the instrument panel.

20. With the aid of an assistant, pull the instrument panel rearward and detach the heater controls

and air conditioner vacuum line connector, if equipped. Unplug any remaining wiring harnesses.

21. With the aid of an assistant, carefully remove the instrument panel through the front door.

To install:

22. With the aid of an assistant, carefully position the instrument panel through the front door.

23. With the aid of an assistant, position the instrument panel forward and connect the heater

controls and air conditioner vacuum line connector, if equipped. Engage any wiring harnesses

24. With the aid of an assistant to support the instrument panel, install the 3 bolts and 1 nut attaching

the driver's side of the instrument panel.

25. Move the lower steering column shaft toward the column U-joint and install the steering column

pinch bolt to the lower steering column shaft.

26. Engage the wiring connectors to the main wiring harness at the left cowl side panel.

27. On vehicles with manual transmission; engage the wiring connector to the clutch interlock

switch.

28. Engage the wiring connector to the brake light switch.

29. On vehicles with column shift; connect the shift cable to the steering column shift cable bracket.

30. Install the 3 nuts attaching the parking brake control to the driver's side cowl panel.

31. Engage the wiring connector to the parking brake control.

32. Engage the wiring connectors to the main wiring harness at the right cowl side panel.

33. Install the screw and washer assembly located at the lower corner on the passenger side of the

instrument panel.

34. Install the bolt attaching the instrument panel to the panel brace. Some vehicles may have 2

lower braces.

35. Position the antenna lead-in cable up and snap the wire to the bottom of the instrument panel.

36. Install the 2 screws attaching the instrument panel steering column opening cover assembly to

the underside of the instrument panel.

37. Install the top of the instrument panel to the cowl with the 4 retaining screws.

38. Install the right and driver's side windshield side garnish moldings.

39. Install the radio as outlined in Section 6 .

40. Install the connectors to the instrument panel rear lamp wiring and the engine control sensor

wiring in the engine compartment by engaging the connectors and tightening the retaining bolts.

41. Connect the negative battery cable and arm the air bag system. Refer to Section 6 .

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Remove the bulkhead electrical connectors from inside the engine compartment

Remove the audio unit ground and the GEM/CTM ground bolts

Remove the instrument panel bolts through the steering column opening

Click to enlarge

Remove the passenger side ground bolt

Detach the passenger side instrument panel main harness connectors

Remove the instrument panel bolt on the relay bracket

Remove the instrument panel bolts through the passenger side air bag module opening

Remove the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the driver's side corner of the

glove compartment

Position the carpet aside and loosen the instrument panel floor brace

Remove the passenger side instrument panel cowl side nut

On Navigator, remove the defroster grille assembly

Remove the cowl panel mounting bolts

Remove the instrument panel

Click to enlarge

1. Move the seat fully rearward.

2. If equipped with a manual transmission, place the transmission into second gear.

3. Disarm the Air bag system. Refer to Section 6 .

4. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

5. Position the battery junction box aside.

6. Remove the bulkhead electrical connectors from inside the engine compartment.

7. Remove the bulkhead electrical connector insulator.

8. Unclip the bulkhead electrical connectors from the dash panel.

9. If equipped, remove the center console.

10. Remove the lower instrument panel steering column cover.

11. If equipped, remove the valance panel.

12. Detach the restraint control module (RCM) electrical connector.

13. Detach the electronic blend door actuator electrical connector.

14. Detach the climate control head vacuum harness connector.

15. Remove the driver's side and passenger side scuff plates.

16. Position the driver's side and passenger side door weatherstrip seals aside.

17. Remove the driver's side and passenger side A-pillar lower trim panels.

18. If equipped, remove the alternative fuel control module (AFCM).

The AFCM is attached with velcro.

19. Remove the four covers, the four screws and remove the passenger side assist handle.

20. Remove the driver's side and passenger side windshield side garnish mouldings.

21. Detach the brake pedal position switch electrical connector.

22. If equipped, detach the clutch pedal position switch.

23. On Expedition and Navigator models, detach the adjustable pedal motor connector, if equipped.

24. Remove the audio unit ground and the GEM/CTM ground bolts.

25. Detach the driver's side instrument panel main wiring harness connectors.

26. Remove the instrument panel steering column opening cover reinforcement.

27. Detach the air bag sliding contact electrical connectors and the anti-theft sensor electrical

connector.

28. Detach the remaining electrical connectors on the steering column.

29. If equipped, detach the transmission range indicator from the steering column.

30. Lower the steering column.

31. Remove the instrument panel bolts through the steering column opening.

32. Remove the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the driver's side corner of the cigar lighter

and power point.

33. Detach the inertia fuel shutoff switch electrical connector.

34. Remove the passenger side ground bolt.

35. If equipped, detach the air suspension wiring harness electrical connector.

36. Detach the passenger side instrument panel main harness connectors.

37. Release all the wiring harness locators from the cowl side panel.

38. Detach the climate control wiring harness connector.

39. Remove the radio chassis. Refer to Section 6 .

40. Disconnect the three cable locators from the lower instrument panel channel and remove the

audio unit antenna lead-in cable from the instrument panel.

41. Remove the instrument panel relay cover.

42. Remove the instrument panel bolt on the relay bracket.

43. Remove the glove compartment.

CAUTION

Carry a live air bag with the bag and trim cover pointed away from

your body. An accidental deployment will then deploy with minimal

chance of injury. Place a live air bag on a bench or other surface with

the trim cover up.

44. Remove the passenger side air bag module.

45. Remove the instrument panel bolts through the passenger side air bag module opening.

46. Remove the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the driver's side corner of the glove

compartment.

47. Position the carpet aside and loosen the instrument panel floor brace.

48. Remove the passenger side instrument panel cowl side nut.

49. Remove the driver's side instrument panel cowl side nut.

50. On all models except for Navigator, remove the instrument panel cowl top bolts.

51. On Navigator, remove the defroster grille assembly.

52. Remove the cowl panel mounting bolts.

Two people are required to perform this step.

53. Remove the instrument panel.

To install:

Two people are required to perform this step.

54. Align and position the instrument panel with the clips in the sheet metal.

55. Install the instrument panel cowl top bolts.

56. Install the instrument panel mounting bolts.

57. Install the covers.

58. Install the driver's side instrument panel cowl side nut.

59. Install the passenger side instrument panel cowl side nut.

To prevent any squeaks or rattles, install and tighten the upper instrument panel floor

brace bolt first, then tighten the floor brace bolts and nut.

60. Install the upper instrument panel floor brace bolt.

61. Install the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the driver's side corner of the glove

compartment.

62. Install the instrument panel bolt on the relay bracket.

63. Install the instrument panel bolts through the passenger side air bag module opening.

Install the passenger side bolt first.

CAUTION

Never probe the connectors on the air bags. Doing so may result in air

bag deployment, which could result in personal injury. Carry a live air

bag with the bag and trim cover pointed away from your body. An

accidental deployment will then deploy with a minimal chance of

injury.

64. Install the passenger side air bag module.

65. Install the glove compartment.

66. Install the instrument panel relay cover.

67. If equipped, attach the autolamp sensor electrical connector.

68. Install the instrument panel relay cover.

69. Position the audio unit antenna lead-in cable into the instrument panel.

70. Connect the cable locators between the instrument panel channel and the audio unit end of the

cable.

71. Install the radio chassis. Refer to Section 6 .

72. Attach the climate control wiring harness connector.

73. Attach the passenger side instrument panel main harness connectors.

74. If equipped, attach the load leveling control suspension wiring harness electrical connector.

75. Install the passenger side ground bolts.

76. Attach the inertia fuel shutoff switch electrical connector.

77. Install the instrument panel reinforcement bolt below the driver's side corner of the cigar lighter

and power point.

78. Install the instrument panel bolts through the steering column opening.

79. Position the steering column.

80. Install the four steering column support nuts.

81. If equipped, connect the transmission range indicator to the steering column.

82. Attach the remaining electrical connectors on the steering column.

83. Attach the air bag sliding contact electrical connectors and the anti-theft sensor electrical

connector.

84. Install the instrument panel steering column opening cover reinforcement.

85. Attach the driver's side instrument panel main wiring harness connectors.

86. Connect the audio unit ground and the GEM/CTM ground bolts.

87. If equipped, connect the CPP switch.

88. Attach the BPP switch electrical connector.

89. Install the driver's side and passenger side windshield side garnish mouldings.

90. Install the passenger side assist handle.

91. If equipped, install the alternative fuel control module (AFCM).

92. Attach the electrical connnector.

93. Install the driver's side and passenger side A-pillar lower trim panels.

94. Install the driver's side and passenger side door weatherstrip seals.

95. Install the driver's side and passenger side scuff plates.

96. Attach the climate control head vacuum harness connector.

97. Attach the electronic blend door actuator electrical connector.

98. Attach the RCM electrical connector, engage the locking tab and insert the wiring harness

locator.

99. If equipped, install the valance panel.

100. Install the lower instrument panel steering column cover.

101. Clip the bulkhead electrical connectors into the dash panel.

102. Install the bulkhead electrical connector insulator.

103. Attach the bulkhead electrical connectors from inside the engine compartment.

104. Install the battery junction box into the mounting tabs.

105. Connect the negative battery cable.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

Remove the passenger side ground bolt

Remove the upper passenger side cowl side bolt

Remove the lower passenger side cowl side bolt

Remove the driver's side cowl side bolts

Remove the driver's side instrument panel center support bolt

Remove the instrument panel cowl top bolts

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Disarm the air bag system. Refer to Section 6 .

3. Remove the driver side air bag module. Refer to Section 6 .

4. Detach the driver's side bulkhead wiring harness connectors.

5. Remove the driver's side bulkhead wiring harness connectors from the dash panel.

6. Remove the driver's side and passenger side scuff plates.

7. Remove the driver's side and passenger side cowl side trim panels.

8. Position the driver's side and passenger side front door weatherstrips aside.

The antenna cable will be removed with the instrument panel.

9. Remove the antenna base as outlined in this section.

10. Position the passenger side front fender splash shield away from the dash panel.

11. Unseat the antenna cable grommet from the dash panel.

12. Route the antenna cable into the passenger compartment.

WARNING

Use care when removing the instrument panel steering column cover

or damage to the cover locating tab may occur.

13. Remove the instrument panel steering column cover.

14. Position the parking brake release handle aside.

15. Detach the parking brake switch electrical connector.

16. Detach the brake pedal position (BPP) switch electrical connector.

17. Through the steering column opening, detach the wiring harness electrical connectors.

18. Separate the intermediate shaft from the steering column.

19. If equipped, disconnect the transmission shift cable from the steering column.

20. Remove the electronic crash sensor (ECS) cover.

21. Detach the ECS electrical connector.

22. While releasing the glove compartment stops, lower the glove compartment.

23. Detach the blend door actuator harness electrical connector.

24. Detach the climate control vacuum harness connector.

25. Depress the glove compartment stops and close the glove compartment.

26. Detach the passenger side cowl side electrical connectors.

27. Remove the passenger side ground bolt.

28. Remove the passenger side cowl side inner panel cover.

29. Remove the upper passenger side instrument panel cowl side bolt.

30. Remove the lower passenger side instrument panel cowl side bolt.

31. Remove the driver's side instrument panel finish end panel.

32. Remove the driver's side instrument panel cowl side bolts.

33. Remove the driver's side instrument panel center support bolt.

34. Remove the instrument panel covers.

35. Remove the instrument panel cowl top bolts.

Two people are required to perform this step.

36. Remove the instrument panel.

To install:

Two people are required to perform this step.

37. Install the instrument panel.

38. Install the instrument panel cowl top bolts.

39. Install the instrument panel covers.

40. Install the driver's side instrument panel center support bolt.

41. Install the driver's side instrument panel cowl side bolts.

42. Install the driver's side instrument panel finish end panel.

43. Install the lower passenger side instrument panel cowl side bolt.

44. Install the upper passenger side instrument panel cowl side bolt.

45. Install the passenger side cowl side inner panel cover.

46. Install the passenger side ground bolt.

47. Attach the passenger side cowl side electrical connectors.

48. Open the glove compartment and while releasing the glove compartment stops, lower the glove

compartment.

49. Attach the climate control vacuum harness connector.

50. Attach the blend door actuator harness electrical connector.

51. Close the glove compartment.

52. Attach the ECS electrical connector.

53. Install the ECS cover.

54. If equipped, connect the transmission shift cable to the steering column.

55. Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering column.

56. Install the steering column shaft pinch bolt.

57. Through the steering column opening, attach the wiring harness electrical connectors.

58. Attach the BPP switch electrical connector.

59. Attach the parking brake switch electrical connector.

60. Install the parking brake release handle.

61. Install the instrument panel steering column cover.

62. Route the antenna cable into the inner fender opening.

63. Seat the antenna cable grommet into the dash panel.

64. Install the antenna base.

65. Install the passenger side front fender splash shield.

66. Install the driver's side and passenger side front door weatherstrips.

67. Install the driver's side and passenger side cowl side trim panels.

68. Install the driver's side and passenger side scuff plates.

69. Install the driver's side bulkhead electrical connectors into the dash panel.

70. Attach the driver's side bulkhead wiring harness connectors.

71. Install the driver side air bag module. Refer to Section 6 .

Floor Console

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150 and F-250

Floor-mounted console installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Open the floor console cover.

2. If equipped, remove the CD changer.

3. Remove the floor console tray mat.

4. Remove the floor console cupholder assembly.

5. Remove the floor console.

6. Remove the retaining nuts.

7. Remove the floor console.

8. Feed the wiring harness through the floor console.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Expedition and Navigator

FRONT

Remove the console finish panel front screw

Remove the console finish panel rear screw

Remove the console finish panel

Remove the front floor console front bolts

Remove the two console rear bolt covers

Remove the two console rear bolts

REAR

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the console finish panel mat.

3. Remove the console finish panel front screw.

4. Remove the console finish panel rear screw.

5. Remove the console finish panel.

6. Remove the front floor console front bolts.

7. Detach the front floor console electrical connector.

8. If equipped, detach the cellular phone electrical connector.

9. Remove the two front floor console rear bolt covers.

10. Remove the two front floor console rear bolts.

11. Lift the front of the floor console and slide rearward to disengage the floor brackets and remove

the floor console.

12. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Remove the rear floor console front screws

Remove the two rear floor console rear screws

1. Tilt the rear seats forward.

2. Pull upward on the center of the cupholder to release the pin-type retainers and remove the

cupholder.

3. Remove the rear floor console front screws.

4. Remove the two rear floor console rear screws.

5. Remove the rear floor console.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

Remove the console retaining nuts

Click to enlarge

1. Open the floor console cover.

2. Remove the storage insert.

3. Remove the console tray mat.

4. Remove the retaining nuts.

5. Remove the floor console.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Door Panels

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Door panel assembly—standard series

Click to enlarge

Door panel assembly—hi series

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the armrest pad retaining screw.

2. Remove the inside door handle screw and pull off the handle.

3. If equipped with manual windows, remove the window regulator handle screw and pull off the

handle and washer. On vehicles with power windows, remove the power window switch housing.

4. If equipped with manual door locks, remove the door lock control. On vehicles with power door

locks, remove the power door lock switch housing.

5. On models with electric outside rear view mirrors, remove the power mirror switch housing.

6. Remove the retaining screw and washer from the trim panel lower corner.

7. Using a special door trim panel removal tool or a flat wood spatula, insert it carefully behind the

panel and slide it along to find the push-pins. When you encounter a pin, pry the pin outward. Do

this until all the pins are out. NEVER PULL ON THE PANEL TO REMOVE THE PINS!

8. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Except 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Remove the front door sail panel

If equipped with manual windows, remove the window regulator handle by separating the

handle cover from the handle and ...

... remove the handle retaining screw

... remove the handle and the spacer behind it

Remove the handle retaining bolt cover and ...

... remove the handle retaining bolt and ...

... remove the handle

Remove the door pillar trim by carefully puling it outward to release the trim clips

Remove the trim clip under the door pillar and ...

... the sail panel

Remove the door panel by carefully lifting the panel upward to release the retaining clips

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the front door sail panel.

3. Remove the inside door handle finish panel.

4. If equipped with power windows, remove the window regulator switch plate.

5. If equipped with manual windows, remove the window regulator handle by separating the handle

cover from the handle.

6. Remove the handle retaining screw and remove the window regulator handle and the spacer.

WARNING

Do not pull directly outward on the front door trim panel, as damage

may occur.

7. Remove the door panel retaining clips.

8. Remove the door panel retaining screws.

9. Lift and remove the front door trim panel.

10. If equipped, twist the courtesy lamp bulb socket one quarter turn and remove the socket from the

front door trim panel.

11. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Door Locks

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Door Latch

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Door latch installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the door trim panel and watershield.

2. Disconnect the rods from the handle and lock cylinder, and from the remote control assembly.

3. Remove the latch assembly attaching screws and remove the latch from the door.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

The front door window glass must be completely up.

1. Remove the door panel.

2. Remove the watershield.

3. Remove the rear glass channel bolt and position the glass channel aside.

4. Disconnect the rods from the door latch.

5. Unclip the locking clip.

6. Remove and discard the door latch retaining screws.

7. Position the latch aside.

8. Detach the electrical connectors and remove the latch.

To install:

Install the front door latch screw in the small opening first, followed by the large opening.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

10. If necessary, use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray F5AZ-19G209-AA or equivalent meeting Ford

specification ESR-M1C159-A to lubricate the latches.

1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

The window must be in full up position.

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the outside front door handle.

3. Separate the push button rod from the front door latch.

4. Remove the lock rod clips.

5. Remove the latch retaining screws.

6. Position the front door latch in the inside door access opening.

7. Detach the electrical connector(s).

8. Remove the front door latch cable cover.

9. Remove the remote control cable case from the latch.

10. Remove the remote control cable from the front door latch.

11. Remove the front door latch.

12. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Rear Door Latch

CREW CAB PICKUPS

F-350 Crew Cab rear door latch installation

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the door trim panel and watershield.

2. Disconnect the rods from the handle and lock cylinder, and from the remote control assembly.

3. Remove the latch assembly attaching screws and remove the latch from the door.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

The rear door window glass must be completely raised.

1. Remove rear door trim panel.

2. Disconnect the rear door latch rod.

3. Remove the rear door latch remote control screw.

4. Slide the rear door latch remote control forward and remove.

5. Remove the rear door speaker.

6. Remove the rear door watershield.

7. Remove the outside rear door handle.

8. Remove the child safety lock finish panel.

9. If equipped, detach the power door lock actuator electrical connector.

10. If equipped, drill out the power door lock actuator rivet.

11. Drill out the push button rod rivet.

12. Detach the door open warning lamp electrical connector.

13. Remove and discard the latch retaining screws.

14. Remove the rear door latch through the outside rear door handle opening.

15. Disconnect any remaining actuating rods.

To install:

Make sure the latch release rod is not preloading the latch. It should be clipped in a relaxed

state with no slack.

Install the rear door latch screw in the small opening first, followed by the large opening.

16. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

17. If necessary, use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray F5AZ-19G209-AA or equivalent meeting Ford

specification ESR-M1C159-A to lubricate the latches.

Inside Handle

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY; 1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

1. Remove the retaining screw/nut and remove the handle.

2. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATORY FRONT DOOR

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the front door watershield.

The front door window glass must be completely raised.

3. Detach the door handle electrical connector.

4. Remove the door handle nuts.

5. Disconnect the front door latch to lock cylinder rod.

6. Disconnect the front door latch to outside front door handle rod at the handle and at the latch.

7. Remove the door handle by pushing it out from the bottom surface of the handle.

To install:

Make sure the door handle and lock cylinder rods are not preloading the latch. They should

be clipped in a relaxed state with no slack.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR REAR DOOR

1. Remove the rear door trim panel.

The rear window glass must be completely raised.

2. Disconnect the rear door latch rod.

3. Remove the screw and slide the rear door latch remote control forward and remove.

To install:

Make sure the latch release rod is not preloading the latch. It should be clipped in a relaxed

state with no slack.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Outside Handle

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the front door watershield.

3. Disconnect the actuating rods from the handle.

4. Remove the one handle retaining nut and screw.

5. Remove the handle from the door.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR FRONT DOOR

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the front door watershield.

The front door window glass must be completely raised.

3. Detach the door handle electrical connector.

4. Remove the door handle retaining nuts.

5. Disconnect the front door latch to lock cylinder rod.

6. Disconnect the front door latch to outside front door handle rod at the handle and at the latch.

7. Remove the door handle by pushing it out from the bottom surface of the handle.

To install:

Make sure the door handle and lock cylinder rods are not preloading the latch. They should

be clipped in a relaxed state with no slack.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR REAR DOOR

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the front door watershield.

3. Remove the door handle retaining nuts.

4. Disconnect the rear door latch-to-lock cylinder rod.

5. Remove the outside rear door handle by pushing it out from the bottom surface of the handle.

To install:

Make sure the door handle and the rear door handle rod is in a relaxed position and that the

rear door handle rod is all the way up before closing the clips.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the cover from the side of the door and remove the nut.

3. Remove the nut from inside the door.

4. Pull the outside door handle out of the front door far enough to expose the attached door latch

linkage.

5. Disconnect the lock cylinder linkage rod from the outside door handle.

6. Disconnect the release rod from the front door latch by prying open the clip and removing the

latch release rod.

7. Remove the outside door handle.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Door Lock Cylinder

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

1. Place the window in the UP position.

2. Remove the trim panel and watershield.

3. Disconnect the actuating rod from the lock control link clip.

4. Slide the retainer away from the lock cylinder.

5. Pull the cylinder from the door.

6. Installation is the reverse of removal.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

1. Remove the front door outside handle.

2. Remove the front door lock cylinder retainer.

3. Remove the front door lock cylinder.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Remove the outside door handle.

3. Remove the spring clip and remove the lock cylinder.

To install:

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Actuator Motor

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Electric door lock actuator motor and control switch wiring

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the door trim panel.

2. Disconnect the motor from the door latch.

3. Remove the motor and swivel bracket from the door by drilling out the pop rivet.

4. Disconnect the wiring harness.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that the pop rivet is tight.

EXCEPT 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

1. Remove the door latch.

2. Remove the door ajar switch.

3. Pry up on lock actuator tab.

4. Slide the door latch lock actuator off the latch channels using a prying action.

5. Remove the door latch lock actuator.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Tailgate Lock

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Lock Cylinder

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

1. Remove the tailgate access cover.

2. Raise the glass. If the glass can't be raised, remove it as described below.

3. Remove the lock cylinder retainer.

4. Disengage the lock cylinder from the switch and remove it from the tailgate.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

EXCEPT 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

1. Remove the tailgate handle.

2. Remove the lock cylinder retaining clip.

3. Remove the lock cylinder.

To install:

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Tailgate Handle

1. Open the tailgate.

2. Remove the tailgate access panel.

3. Disconnect the tailgate latch rods.

4. Remove the tailgate handle retaining nuts.

5. Remove the tailgate handle.

To install:

Make sure the latch release rods are not preloading the latches. They should be clipped in a

relaxed state with no slack.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Liftgate Lock

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Handle

1. Remove the liftgate trim panel.

2. On Navigator models, remove the license plate bracket.

3. Remove the liftgate latch remote control bolts and position aside.

4. On Expedition:

1. Remove the liftgate handle two retaining nuts.

2. Remove the reinforcement plate and remove the liftgate

handle.

WARNING

Use care when removing the liftgate handle to avoid breaking the

plastic tangs.

5. On Navigator:

6. Disconnect the liftgate latch remote control rod.

1. Remove the liftgate handle two retaining nuts.

2. Remove the liftgate handle.

To install:

WARNING

Make sure the handle shaft and the driver on the liftgate latch

controller are properly aligned.

WARNING

On Navigator, make sure the plastic tangs of the handle fully engage

the holes in the sheet metal.

WARNING

On Navigator, make sure the liftgate latch remote control rod is not

preloading the liftgate latch. It should be clipped in a relaxed state

with no slack.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Lock Cylinder

Individual lock cylinders are repaired by discarding the inoperative lock cylinder and

building a new lock cylinder using the appropriate lock repair package. The lock repair

package includes a detailed instruction sheet to build the new lock cylinder to the current

code of the vehicle.

1. Remove the liftgate trim panel.

2. Disconnect the lock cylinder rod.

3. Remove the retaining clip.

4. Remove the lock cylinder.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Latch

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the liftgate trim panel.

3. On Navigator, remove the license plate bracket.

4. Remove the liftgate latch screws.

5. Separate the liftgate latch from the liftgate.

6. Detach the door open warning lamp electrical connector.

WARNING

Be careful not to kink the liftgate latch control cable while

disconnecting it.

7. Disconnect the liftgate latch control cable.

8. Remove the liftgate latch.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

If necessary, use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray F5AZ-19G209-AA or equivalent meeting Ford

Specification ESR-M1C159-A to lubricate the latch.

Power Door Lock Actuator

1. Remove the liftgate trim panel.

2. Detach the power door lock actuator electrical connector.

3. Drill out the actuator retaining rivet.

4. Disconnect the power door lock actuator rod and remove the actuator.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Door Glass and Regulator Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

FRONT DOOR GLASS

1. Remove the door trim panel.

2. Remove the screw from the vent window division bar.

3. Remove the 2 vent window weatherstrip attaching screws from the front edge of the door.

4. Lower the glass and remove the inside and outside front door front belt line weatherstrips.

5. Pull the door glass top run out of the window opening near the front door vent window division

bar enough to allow the removal of the front door vent window and glass assembly.

6. Tilt the door vent window glass and frame assembly and the division bar toward the rear of the

door and remove the vent window assembly from the door.

7. Remove the window regulator arm roller from the front door glass channel and retainer.

8. Rotate the front edge of the door window glass downward and lift it and the attached front door

glass channel and retainer from the door.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

REAR DOOR GLASS (CREW CAB MODELS)

1. Remove the door panel.

2. Lower the rear door glass and remove the inside and outside weatherstrips.

3. Remove one screw at the top of the rear door glass front lower retainer.

4. Remove the door glass run front lower retainer by pulling up and twisting it so that the retainer

bracket clears the window opening and the rear door glass run slides off.

5. Pull the rear door glass run out of the rear door opening.

6. Raise the window glass half-way and remove the window regulator arm from the window glass

channel.

7. Lift the rear door window glass up and out of the door opening.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WINDOW REGULATOR

Window regulator replacement

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the front door trim panel..

2. Raise and support the front door window glass to the full up position.

3. Drill out the center retaining rivets using a

1

/

4

inch (6.35 mm) drill bit.

WARNING

Be careful not to damage sheet metal holes during drilling.

4. Remove the window regulator arm roller from the front door glass channel and retainer and

remove the regulator from the door.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

A 1 /

4

-20 X 1 /

2

inch bolt and washer and a 1 /

4

-20 nut and washer assembly may be used in

place of rivets.

F-150 and F-250

FRONT DOOR GLASS

Loosen the window glass to regulator nuts

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Peel back the front door watershield.

3. Lower the window glass to access the two window glass to regulator nuts.

4. Remove the inside glass weatherstrip.

5. Remove the rear glass channel bolt and lift the channel.

6. Loosen the window glass to regulator nuts.

7. Slide glass channel rearward until the rear glass to regulator nut lines up with the hole in the

glass channel.

8. Slide the glass through the outboard side of the door and remove the front door window glass.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WINDOW REGULATOR

Peel back the front door watershield

Remove the regulator retaining nuts and ...

... bolts as shown

Drill out the rivets shown to remove the window regulator—F-150 and F-250

1. Remove the front door trim panel.

2. Peel back the front door watershield.

3. Lower the window glass to access the two window glass to regulator nuts.

4. Remove the window glass nuts.

5. Support the front door window glass in the full up position.

6. If equipped, detach the power window electrical connector.

7. Remove the window regulator retaining nuts and drill out the rivets.

8. Remove the window regulator.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Expedition and Navigator

WINDOW REGULATOR AND MOTOR

The window regulator and motor are removed as an assembly.

1. Remove the front door trim panel..

2. Remove the front door radio speaker.

3. Remove the front door watershield.

WARNING

Support the window glass to avoid damage.

4. Raise and support the front door window glass to the full up position.

5. Detach the power window motor electrical connector.

6. Remove the window glass to regulator nuts.

7. Drill out the rivets retaining the regulator.

8. Remove the motor and window regulator assembly.

WARNING

Prior to motor removal, ensure the regulator arms are in a fixed

position to prevent counterbalance spring unwind.

9. Remove the power window motor retaining bolts and remove the power window motor from the

regulator.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

FRONT DOOR GLASS

1. Remove the window switch.

2. Remove the window crank handle (manual windows only).

3. Remove the door trim panel, interior sail cover and watershield.

4. Loosen the outside rearview mirror or outside sail cover (if equipped).

5. Temporarily install the window switch or the window crank, and lower the window to access the

glass bracket nuts and loosen the nuts.

6. Remove the inner beltline weatherstrip and outer beltline weatherstrip.

7. Loosen the rear glass run bolt.

8. Remove the door glass from the channel by sliding the channel forward, then position the door

glass in the bottom of the door.

9. Remove the window glass from the inner door by tilting the window glass forward and lifting the

glass out of the door.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

REAR DOOR GLASS (CREW CAB MODELS)

1. Remove the window switch.

2. Remove the window crank handle (manual windows only).

3. Remove the door trim panel and watershield.

4. Temporarily install the window switch or window crank handle, and lower the window to access

the glass bracket nuts and loosen the nuts.

5. Remove the inner beltline weatherstrip and outer beltline weatherstrip.

6. Loosen the rear glass run bolt.

7. Remove the door glass from the regulator channel by sliding the channel forward, then position

the door glass in the bottom of the door.

8. Remove the front edge of the window glass from the glass run.

9. Lift the window glass up through the belt opening to remove from the door.

10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

WINDOW REGULATOR

This procedure also applies to the rear door on Crew Cab models.

1. Remove the window switch.

2. Remove the window crank handle (manual windows only).

3. Remove the door trim panel and watershield.

Do not remove the window glass from the door.

4. Remove the window from the window regulator.

5. Tape the window glass in the full up position.

6. Detach the window motor electrical connector (power windows only).

7. Loosen the window regulator arm retaining nuts and pull the arm from the mounting position.

8. Loosen the window regulator mounting bolts and remove the window regulator.

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Electric Window Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

1. Disconnect the battery ground.

2. Remove the door trim panel.

3. Disconnect the window motor wiring harness.

4. There are 2 dimples in the door panel, opposite the 2 concealed motor retaining bolts. Using a

1

/

2

in. (13mm) drill bit, drill out these dimples to gain access to the motor bolts. Be careful to avoid

damage to the wires.

5. Remove the 3 motor mounting bolts.

6. Push the motor towards the outside of the door to disengage it from the gears. You'll have to

support the window glass once the motor is disengaged.

7. Remove the motor from the door.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

To avoid rusting in the drilled areas, prime and paint the exposed metal, or, cover the holes

with waterproof body tape.

F-150 and F-250

1. Raise the front door window glass to the full up position.

2. Remove the front door trim panel.

3. Peel back the front door watershield.

WARNING

Make sure the electrical connector is not in the way before drilling.

4. To access the power window motor bolts, use a

3

/

4

-inch hole saw with a

1

/

4

-inch pilot to drill two

holes at the existing drill dimples on the door.

WARNING

Prior to motor removal, make sure the regulator arms are in a fixed

position to prevent counterbalance spring unwind.

5. Remove the motor retaining bolts.

6. Detach the electrical connector.

7. Remove the power window motor.

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Expedition and Navigator

The window regulator and motor are removed as an assembly. Refer to regulator removal and

installation in this section.

1999-00 Super Duty Models

This procedure also applies to the rear door on Crew Cab models.

1. Remove the window switch.

2. Remove the door trim panel and watershield.

3. Tape the window in the full up position.

4. Detach the window motor electrical connector.

WARNING

Support the window motor while removing the window motor

retaining screws.

5. Remove the window motor screws and remove the motor.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Windshield and Fixed Glass

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

If your windshield, or other fixed window, is cracked or chipped, you may decide to replace it with a

new one yourself. However, there are two main reasons why replacement windshields and other

window glass should be installed only by a professional automotive glass technician: safety and cost.

The most important reason a professional should install automotive glass is for safety. The glass in the

vehicle, especially the windshield, is designed with safety in mind in case of a collision. The

windshield is specially manufactured from two panes of specially-tempered glass with a thin layer of

transparent plastic between them. This construction allows the glass to "give" in the event that a part

of your body hits the windshield during the collision, and prevents the glass from shattering, which

could cause lacerations, blinding and other harm to passengers of the vehicle. The other fixed

windows are designed to be tempered so that if they break during a collision, they shatter in such a

way that there are no large pointed glass pieces. The professional automotive glass technician knows

how to install the glass in a vehicle so that it will function optimally during a collision. Without the

proper experience, knowledge and tools, installing a piece of automotive glass yourself could lead to

additional harm if an accident should ever occur.

Cost is also a factor when deciding to install automotive glass yourself. Performing this could cost you

much more than a professional may charge for the same job. Since the windshield is designed to

break under stress, an often life saving characteristic, windshields tend to break VERY easily when an

inexperienced person attempts to install one. Do-it-yourselfers buying two, three or even four

windshields from a salvage yard because they have broken them during installation are common

stories. Also, since the automotive glass is designed to prevent the outside elements from entering

your vehicle, improper installation can lead to water and air leaks. Annoying whining noises at

highway speeds from air leaks or inside body panel rusting from water leaks can add to your stress

level and subtract from your wallet. After buying two or three windshields, installing them and ending

up with a leak that produces a noise while driving and water damage during rainstorms, the cost of

having a professional do it correctly the first time may be much more alluring. We here at Chilton,

therefore, advise that you have a professional automotive glass technician service any broken glass

on your vehicle.

WINDSHIELD CHIP REPAIR

Check with your state and local authorities on the laws for state safety inspection. Some

states or municipalities may not allow chip repair as a viable option for correcting stone

damage to your windshield.

Although severely cracked or damaged windshields must be replaced, there is something that you can

do to prolong or even prevent the need for replacement of a chipped windshield. There are many

companies which offer windshield chip repair products, such as Loctite's® Bullseye™ windshield

repair kit. These kits usually consist of a syringe, pedestal and a sealing adhesive. The syringe is

mounted on the pedestal and is used to create a vacuum which pulls the plastic layer against the

glass. This helps make the chip transparent. The adhesive is then injected which seals the chip and

helps to prevent further stress cracks from developing. Refer to the sequence of photos to get a

general idea of what windshield chip repair involves.

Always follow the specific manufacturer's instructions.

Small chips on your windshield can be fixed with an aftermarket repair kit, such as the

one from Loctiteâ

To repair a chip, clean the windshield with glass cleaner and dry it completely

Remove the center from the adhesive disc and peel off the backing from one side of the

disc ...

... then press it on the windshield so that the chip is centered in the hole

Be sure that the tab points upward on the windshield

Peel the backing off the exposed side of the adhesive disc ...

... then position the plastic pedestal on the adhesive disc, ensuring that the tabs are

aligned

Press the pedestal firmly on the adhesive disc to create an adequate seal ...

... then install the applicator syringe nipple in the pedestal's hole

Hold the syringe with one hand while pulling the plunger back with the other hand

After applying the solution, allow the entire assembly to sit until it has set completely

After the solution has set, remove the syringe from the pedestal ...

... then peel the pedestal off of the adhesive disc ...

... and peel the adhesive disc off of the windshield

The chip will still be slightly visible, but it should be filled with the hardened solution

Inside Rear View Mirror

REPLACEMENT

Rear View Mirror Remover T91T-17700-A or equivalent is required to remove the mirror

Use the tool to release the mirror retaining clip while pulling the inside rear view mirror

away from the mirror mount

1. Perform the following steps if the rear view mirror is still attached.

1. Insert the Rear View Mirror Remover T91T-17700-A, or

equivalent into the mount on the inside rear view mirror.

2. Use the tool to release the mirror retaining clip while pulling

the inside rear view mirror away from the mirror mount.

3. Remove the inside rear view mirror.

2. Use a wax pencil or other suitable tool to mark the location of the inside rear view mirror bracket

on the outside surface of the windshield glass.

3. Perform the following step if the mirror bracket is still attached.

1. Apply low heat to the windshield glass to soften the

adhesive and remove the bracket from the windshield.

4. Remove the remaining adhesive from the windshield glass.

To install:

5. Clean the inside of the windshield glass with isopropyl alcohol to remove any remaining

adhesive.

6. Use a fine grit sandpaper on the inside rear view mirror bracket to lightly scuff the bonding

surface.

7. Wipe the surface of the bracket clean with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

Do not touch the mounting surfaces before installation.

8. Apply Rear View Mirror Adhesive D9AZ-19554-CA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-

M2G176-A to the bonding surface of the inside rear view mirror bracket and the windshield glass.

9. Apply the accelerator solution to the bracket and allow the accelerator material to dry for three

minutes.

10. Press the inside rear view mirror bracket firmly against the windshield glass for approximately

one minute.

11. Allow the adhesive to set for five minutes.

12. Remove any excess adhesive from the windshield glass with a clean, alcohol dampened cloth.

13. Slide the inside rear view mirror downward onto the inside rear view mirror bracket.

Seats

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Bench Seat

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Standard bench seat and track installation—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the 4 seat track-to-floor pan bolts or nuts.

2. Carefully lift the seat and remove from the vehicle.

To install:

3. Apply sealer to the mounting hole areas.

4. Install the seat in the vehicle and adjust position.

5. Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

Front bench seat mounting—1999-00 f-super duty models

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the front safety belts from the front seat.

Removing the front seat requires more than one person.

3. Remove the two front seat riser support-to-floorpan bolts.

4. Remove the front seat riser-to-floorpan nuts.

5. Detach the safety belt electrical connector.

6. Remove the front seat.

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

8. Tighten the nuts to 30-39 ft. lbs. (41-53 Nm). Tighten the bolts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

40/20/40 Split Bench

40/20/40 bench seat and track installation

Click to enlarge

1. Fold the front seat back forward and remove the screws attaching the center safety belt bracket

to the center seat.

2. Remove the 4 seat track-to-floor pan bolts or nuts.

3. Carefully lift the seat and remove from the vehicle.

To install:

4. Apply sealer to the mounting hole areas.

5. Install the seat in the vehicle and adjust position.

6. Install the mounting bolts and tighten to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

60/40 Split Bench

FRONT

60/40 bench seat mounting

Click to enlarge

Removing the 60 percent front bench requires more than one person.

1. Remove the retaining bolts and nuts.

2. Remove the 60 percent front bench.

3. Remove the 40 percent front bench.

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

5. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

REAR (EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR)

Removing the 60 percent front bench requires more than one person.

1. Remove the second row seat riser bolt covers and remove the bolts.

2. Lift the recliner handle and fold the second row seat back forward.

3. Remove the four seat retaining bolts.

4. Remove the 60 percent second row seat.

5. Remove the 40 percent second row seat.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

7. Tighten the bolts to 22-29 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm).

Captain's Chairs

1. Detach any necessary electrical connectors.

2. Remove the 4 seat track-to-floor pan bolts and lift out the seat.

3. Apply sealer to the hole areas and install the seat. Tighten the bolts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

EZ-Entry Second Row Seats (Expedition and Navigator)

Remove the E-Z seat riser to floor bolt covers and remove the bolts

Remove the seat strap bolt

1. Remove the E-Z seat riser to floor bolt covers and remove the bolts.

2. Fold the seat forward to gain access to the seat strap bolt.

3. Remove the seat strap bolt.

WARNING

Do not damage the anti-chuck hook while removing or storing the

40% E-Z entry seat. The weight of the seat should never rest on the

anti-chuck hook, as damage to the hook may occur.

4. Remove the seat.

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Rear Bench Seat Cushion (Supercab)

Rear seat cushion installation—F series Super Cab

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the seat cushion retaining screws.

2. Lift the seat cushion and feed the seat belt through the cushion.

3. Lift the cushion up ensuring the retaining hooks are free and remove the cushion.

To install:

4. Place the cushion into place, place the seat belts through the cushion and engage the retaining

hooks.

5. Tighten the retaining screws to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-34 Nm).

Rear Bench Seat Back (Supercab)

Rear seat back installation—F series Super Cab

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the seat cushion.

2. Remove the seat back bottom retaining screws.

3. Lift the seat back and remove it from the vehicle.

To install:

4. Place the seat cushion into place ensuring the retainers on the top of the seat back are engaged.

5. tighten the retaining screws to 19-32 ft. lbs. (25-44 Nm).

Rear Bench Seat (Crew Cab)

Rear bench seat and track installation—F-350 Crew Cab

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the seat track-to-floor pan bolts and lift the seat and track out of the truck.

2. Installation is the reverse of removal. Apply sealer to the area of the bolt holes. Tighten the bolts

to 18-32 ft. lbs. (25-44 Nm).

Side-Mounted Folding Rear Seat (Super Cab)

Side-mounted folding rear seats—F series Super Cab

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the seat bracket-to-floor screw and washer assemblies.

2. Remove the seat assembly.

3. Remove the bumper screws-to-retainer.

4. Remove the bumper.

5. Remove the trim panel retaining screws.

6. Remove the seat assembly.

7. Tighten the bolts to 22-30 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm).

Forward Facing Folding Rear Seat (Super Cab)

1. Release the rear seat back latch striker and put the rear seat back frame in the fold down

position.

2. Remove the seat belts.

3. Remove the retaining screws attaching the rear seat back cover to the rear seat back frame.

4. Lift up the seat back cover and remove it from the vehicle.

5. Remove the panel and support assembly-to-floor retaining screws.

6. Pull the rear seat back release latch and remove the rear seat cushion frame and rear seat

cushion cover.

7. Move the seat cushion so that the bottom panel is toward the front.

8. Remove the retaining screws to the bottom panel and support assembly.

9. Feed the strap-to-rear seat back release latch through the rear seat cushion pad.

10. Remove the rear seat cushion.

11. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Power Seat Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except 1999-00 Super Duty Models

The power seat is only equipped on models with a Captain's chair. The motor is part of the

seat track assembly and can only be replaced as an assembly. The motor cannot be

replaced separately.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Raise the power seat to its maximum height.

3. Remove the seat. Refer to the procedure in this section.

4. Detach the seat regulator control switch electrical connector.

5. Remove the seat track retaining bolts.

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

7. Tighten the retaining bolts to 16-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm).

1999-00 Super Duty Models

Remove the seat motor retaining bolts and ...

... remove the seat motor

The power seat is only equipped on models with a Captain's chair.

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the seat track retaining bolts and remove the seat track from the seat.

3. Remove the seat motor retaining bolts and remove the seat motor(s).

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

When installing the new motor, the inductive contacts must be depressed before the motor

can be installed on the wire harness bracket.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Specification Chart

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—4.2L ENGINE

1. Windshield washer solvent reservoir

2. Spark plugs (3 on each side)

3. Battery

4. Automatic transmission dipstick

5. PCV valve

6. Spark plug wires

7. Drive vbelt

8. Power steering pump reservoir

(below A/C compressor)

9. Engine oil fill cap

10. Engine oil dipstick

11. Brake master cylinder reservoir

12. Engine compartment fusebox

13. Air cleaner assembly

14. Coolant recovery tank

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—4.6L ENGINE

1. Windshield washer solvent reservoir

2. Battery

3. Automtic transmission dipstick

4. Engine oil fill cap

5. PCV valve

6. Spark plugs (4 on each side)

7. Spark plug wires

8. Drive belt

9. Power steering pump reservoir

10. Engine oil dipstick

11. Brake master cylinder reservoir

12. Engine compartment fusebox

1. 3 Air cleaner assembly

14. Coolant recovery tank

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—5.4L ENGINE

1. Windshield washer solvent reservoir

2. Battery

3. Automtic transmission dipstick

4. PCV valve

5. Spark plugs and ignition coils

(4 on each side)

6. Drive belt

7. Engine oil fill cap

8. Power steering pump reservoir

9. Brake master cylinder reservoir

10. Engine compartment fusebox

11. Air cleaner assembly

12. Coolant recovery tank

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—6.8L ENGINE

1. Battery

2. Coolant recovery tank

3. Engine oil fill cap

4. PCV valve

5. Spark plugs and ignition coils

(5 on each side)

6. Engine oil dipstick

7. Air cleaner assembly

8. Clutch fluid reservoir

9. Brake master cylinder reservoir

10. Engine compartment fusebox

11. Power steering pump reservoir

12. Drive belt

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—5.8/7.5L ENGINE

1. Battery

2. Spark plugs and plug wires (4 on each side)

3. PCV valve

4. Distributor cap & rotor

5. Drive belt

6. Engine oil fill cap

7. Engine oil dipstick

8. Clutch master cylinder

9. Brake master cylinder

10. Engine compartment fusebox

11. Air cleaner assembly

12. Coolant recovery tank

UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—7.3L DIESEL ENGINE

1. Windshield washer solvent reservoir

2. Battery

3. Coolant recovery tank

4. Engine oil dipstick

5. Engine oil fill cap

6. Drive belt

7. Clutch master cylinder

8. Brake master cylinder

9. Air cleaner assembly

10. Engine compartment fusebox

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL

Introduction

Chilton's Total Car Care manual for 1997-00 Ford F-series Trucks, Ford Expedition and the Lincoln

Navigator is intended to help you learn more about the inner workings of your vehicle while saving

you money on its upkeep and operation.

The beginning of the book will likely be referred to the most, since that is where you will find

information for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal with the more complex systems of

your vehicle. Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the

average do-it-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This book will not explain such things as

rebuilding a differential for the simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in

special tools make this task uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to help you

change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that can

save you money, give you personal satisfaction and help you avoid expensive problems.

A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for owners who want to understand their vehicle

and/or their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are required.

Where to Begin

Before removing any bolts, read through the entire procedure. This will give you the overall view of

what tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing more frustrating than having to walk to the

bus stop on Monday morning because you were short one bolt on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead

and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly

understood before attempting any work.

All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, removal and installation procedures, and in some

cases, repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not considered practical, we tell you how to

remove the part and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you at least

save labor costs. "Backyard" repair of some components is just not practical.

Avoiding Trouble

Many procedures in this book require you to "label and disconnect ... " a group of lines, hoses or

wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes—you won't. If you hook

up vacuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the vehicle may run poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical

wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.

You don't need to know the official or engineering name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape

on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter A or a

short name. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be reconnected by matching

similar letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in gasoline or other fluids; if a

component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped

marker or a metal scribe can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper

labels after assembly.

Maintenance or Repair

It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes

routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts which show signs of normal wear.

Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is

not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Example: draining and refilling

the automatic transmission fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufacturer at specific

mileage intervals. Failure to do this can shorten the life of the transmission, requiring very expensive

repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general

rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.

Two basic mechanic's rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or

engine is referred to, it is meant to specify the driver's side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle

means the passenger's side. Second, screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and

tightened by turning clockwise unless specifically noted.

Safety is always the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers involved in working on

an automobile and take the proper precautions. See the information in this section regarding

SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.

Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes

Pay attention to the instructions provided. There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:

1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting

it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it

CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform

everything in the order in which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately

see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might want to

draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get

everything back in its proper position. We will supply exploded views whenever possible. When

making adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One adjustment possibly will affect

another.

2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage,

undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when

dealing with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in

assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to

perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The

pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many

times in actual force on what you are tightening. A good example of how critical torque is can be

seen in the case of spark plug installation, especially where you are putting the plug into an

aluminum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to crush the gasket, causing leakage of

combustion gases and consequent overheating of the plug and engine parts. Too much torque

can damage the threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap. There are many commercial

products available for ensuring that fasteners won't come loose, even if they are not torqued just

right (a very common brand is Loctite®). If you're worried about getting something together tight

enough to hold, but loose enough to avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of these

products might offer substantial insurance. Before choosing a threadlocking compound, read

the label on the package and make sure the product is compatible with the materials, fluids, etc.

involved.

3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the

wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur if access is difficult. It helps to

clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark plug, etc. with your fingers.

If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can

be inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that many parts,

especially spark plugs, have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the

part you're threading to the proper angle. Don't put a wrench on the part until it's been tightened

a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated

fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly.

Be sure to take your time and be patient, and always plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to

perform repairs and maintenance. You may find maintaining your vehicle a satisfying and enjoyable

experience.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Tools and Equipment

Introduction

Naturally, without the proper Tools and Equipment it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It

would also be virtually impossible to catalog every tool that you would need to perform all of the

operations in this book. Of course, It would be unwise for the amateur to rush out and buy an

expensive set of tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more of them at some time.

The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering a good quality set of those tools that are used most

frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of bargain tools. It is far better to spend a little more for

better quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to

their less expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can tell you, there are few worse

experiences than trying to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary savings will be far

outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles.

Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently: those associated with Routine

Maintenance and Tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, you

should have the following tools:

Wrenches/sockets and combination open end/box end wrenches in sizes from

1

/

8

-

3

/

4

in. or 3-

19mm, as well as a

13

/

16

in. or

5

/

8

in. spark plug socket (depending on plug type).

If possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. Universal-joint and wobble

extensions can be extremely useful, but be careful when using them, as they can change

the amount of torque applied to the socket.

Jackstands for support.

Oil filter wrench.

Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.

Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fittings— for details, please refer to information on Fluids and Lubricants, later in this section).

Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless equipped with a sealed, maintenance-free battery).

A container for draining oil and other fluids.

Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess.

All but the most basic procedures will require an assortment of ratchets and sockets

In addition to ratchets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be necessary

A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and supporting the

vehicle

An assortment of pliers, grippers and cutters will be handy for old rusted parts and

stripped bolt heads

Various drivers, chisels and prybars are great tools to have in your toolbox

Many repairs will require the use of a torque wrench to assure the components are

properly fastened

In addition to the above items there are several others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy

to have around. These include Oil Dry® (or an equivalent oil absorbent gravel—such as cat litter) and

the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze and fluids, although these can be purchased as needed. This

is a basic list for routine maintenance, but only your personal needs and desire can accurately

determine your list of tools.

After performing a few projects on the vehicle, you'll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on

your workbench. Some useful household items are: a large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee

cans and ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape for wiring, small rolls of colored tape

for tagging lines or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for plugging vacuum lines), metal

coat hangers or a roll of mechanic's wire (to hold things out of the way), dental pick or similar long,

pointed probe, a strong magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and under manifolds).

Although not always necessary, using specialized brake tools will save time

A few inexpensive lubrication tools will make maintenance easier

Various pullers, clamps and separator tools are needed for many larger, more

complicated repairs

A variety of tools and gauges should be used for spark plug gapping and installation

Proper information is vital, so always have a Chilton Total Car Care manual handy

Inductive type timing light

A screw-in type compression gauge is recommended for compression testing

A vacuum/pressure tester is necessary for many testing procedures

Most modern automotive multimeters incorporate many helpful features

A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are

slightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrageously expensive. There are several inexpensive

tach/dwell meters on the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a

professional model. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500 rpm on the tach scale and that it

works on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to make them with an eye

towards adaptability and wide range. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:

Tach/dwell meter.

Spark plug wrench and gapping tool.

Feeler gauges for valve adjustment.

Timing light.

The choice of a timing light should be made carefully. A light which works on the DC current supplied

by the vehicle's battery is the best choice; it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any vehicle

with an electronic ignition system, a timing light with an inductive pickup that clamps around the No.

1 spark plug cable is preferred.

In addition to these basic tools, there are several other tools and gauges you may find useful. These

include:

Compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a faulty

reading due to escaping pressure.

Manifold vacuum gauge.

12V test light.

A combination volt/ohmmeter

Induction Ammeter. This is used for determining whether or not there is current in a wire. These

are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a wiring harness.

As a final note, you will probably find a torque wrench necessary for all but the most basic work. The

beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the newer click types (breakaway) are easier to

use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of

torque wrenches should be periodically checked and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for

yourself which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.

Special Tools

Normally, the use of special factory tools is avoided for repair procedures, since these are not readily

available for the do-it-yourself mechanic. When it is possible to perform the job with more commonly

available tools, it will be pointed out, but occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform a

specific function and should be used. Before substituting another tool, you should be convinced that

neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle will be compromised.

Special tools can usually be purchased from an automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some

cases special tools may be available directly from the tool manufacturer.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Servicing Your Vehicle Safely

Introduction

It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive maintenance and

service, but care and common sense will prevent most accidents.

The rules of safety for mechanics range from "don't smoke around gasoline," to "use the proper

tool(s) for the job." The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop safe work habits and to take every

possible precaution.

Screwdrivers should be kept in good condition to prevent injury or damage which could

result if the blade slips from the screw

Power tools should always be properly grounded

Click to enlarge

Using the correct size wrench will help prevent the possibility of rounding off a nut

Do's

NEVER work under a vehicle unless it is supported using safety stands (jackstands)

Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy.

Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have 20-

20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles over your regular

glasses.

Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In

case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water or a mixture of water and baking

soda, then seek immediate medical attention.

Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;

jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays raised until you want it to come down.

Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground and set the parking

brake.

Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials. Like

carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from some brake lining wear can be hazardous in

sufficient quantities.

Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The secondary

ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000

volts.

Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous materials. Most

chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken internally.

Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed

or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open

end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause accidents.

Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and

often harming your knuckles in the process.

Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits

the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight, not cocked.

Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to

prevent a fall.

Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that the

force is on the side of the fixed jaw.

Don'ts

Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows.

Do set the parking brake and block the drive wheels if the work requires a running engine.

Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation—EVER! Carbon

monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the human body and you can build up a

deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize

you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, fans and/or open the

garage door.

Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than

long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect your toes and give a better

grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles, beads or body

adornment of any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under

a hat or cap.

Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your body.

Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or fan.

Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable material.

Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it gives off

explosive hydrogen gas.

Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains

dangerous additives which can enter the body through a cut or through your pores. Gasoline

also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and

grease.

Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary tools and

training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant is released to atmospheric pressure it will

absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything it touches.

Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying

tool can snap when you least expect it, causing injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a good

screwdriver.

Don't use an emergency jack (that little ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the

vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These jacks are only intended for emergency

use out on the road; they are NOT designed as a maintenance tool. If you are serious about

maintaining your vehicle yourself, invest in a hydraulic floor jack of at least a 1

1

/

2

ton capacity,

and at least two sturdy jackstands.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Fasteners, Measurements and Conversions

Bolts, Nuts and Other Threaded Retainers

Although there are a great variety of fasteners found in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used retainer is the

threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, studs, etc.). Most threaded retainers may be reused, provided that they are not

damaged in use or during the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or torque prevailing nuts) are designed to

deform when tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled.

Here are a few of the most common screw/bolt driver styles

Click to enlarge

Whenever possible, we will note any special retainers which should be replaced during a procedure. But you should

always inspect the condition of a retainer when it is removed and replace any that show signs of damage. Check all

threads for rust or corrosion which can increase the torque necessary to achieve the desired clamp load for which that

fastener was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the driver surface of the fastener has not been compromised

by rounding or other damage. In some cases a driver surface may become only partially rounded, allowing the driver to

catch in only one direction. In many of these occurrences, a fastener may be installed and tightened, but the driver

would not be able to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead to frustration down the line should that

component ever need to be disassembled again).

There are many different types of threaded retainers found on vehicles

Click to enlarge

Threaded retainer sizes are determined using these measurements

Click to enlarge

Special fasteners such as these Torxâ

Click to enlarge

If you must replace a fastener, whether due to design or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use the proper

replacement. In all cases, a retainer of the same design, material and strength should be used. Markings on the heads of

most bolts will help determine the proper strength of the fastener. The same material, thread and pitch must be selected

to assure proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle afterwards.

Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt or stud's thread. Most automotive and hardware stores keep gauges

available to help you select the proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt

you are replacing is not too badly damaged, you can select a match by finding another bolt which will thread in its

place. If you find a nut which threads properly onto the damaged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replacement

bolt. If however, the bolt you are replacing is so badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads cannot be used as

a gauge, you might start by looking for another bolt (from the same assembly or a similar location on your vehicle)

which will thread into the damaged bolt's mounting. If so, the other bolt can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be

used to select the replacement bolt.

In all cases, be absolutely sure you have selected the proper replacement. Don't be shy, you can always ask the store

clerk for help.

WARNING

Be aware that when you find a bolt with damaged threads, you may also find the nut or drilled hole it was threaded into

has also been damaged. If this is the case, you may have to drill and tap the hole, replace the nut or otherwise repair the

threads. NEVER try to force a replacement bolt to fit into the damaged threads.

Torque

Torque is defined as the measurement of resistance to turning or rotating. It tends to twist a body about an axis of

rotation. A common example of this would be tightening a threaded retainer such as a nut, bolt or screw. Measuring

torque is one of the most common ways to help assure that a threaded retainer has been properly fastened.

When tightening a threaded fastener, torque is applied in three distinct areas, the head, the bearing surface and the clamp

load. About 50 percent of the measured torque is used in overcoming bearing friction. This is the friction between the

bearing surface of the bolt head, screw head or nut face and the base material or washer (the surface on which the

fastener is rotating). Approximately 40 percent of the applied torque is used in overcoming thread friction. This leaves

only about 10 percent of the applied torque to develop a useful clamp load (the force which holds a joint together). This

means that friction can account for as much as 90 percent of the applied torque on a fastener.

TORQUE WRENCHES

Various styles of torque wrenches are usually available at your local automotive supply

store

Click to enlarge

Standard and metric bolt torque specifications based on bolt strengths—WARNING: use

only as a guide

Click to enlarge

In most applications, a torque wrench can be used to assure proper installation of a fastener. Torque wrenches come in

various designs and most automotive supply stores will carry a variety to suit your needs. A torque wrench should be

used any time we supply a specific torque value for a fastener. A torque wrench can also be used if you are following

the general guidelines in the accompanying charts. Keep in mind that because there is no worldwide standardization of

fasteners, the charts are a general guideline and should be used with caution. Again, the general rule of "if you are using

the right tool for the job, you should not have to strain to tighten a fastener" applies here.

Beam Type

Example of a beam type torque wrench

Click to enlarge

The beam type torque wrench is one of the most popular types. It consists of a pointer attached to the head that runs the

length of the flexible beam (shaft) to a scale located near the handle. As the wrench is pulled, the beam bends and the

pointer indicates the torque using the scale.

Click (Breakaway) Type

A click type or breakaway torque wrench—note that this one has a pivoting head

Click to enlarge

Another popular design of torque wrench is the click type. To use the click type wrench you pre-adjust it to a torque

setting. Once the torque is reached, the wrench has a reflex signaling feature that causes a momentary breakaway of the

torque wrench body, sending an impulse to the operator's hand.

Pivot Head Type

Torque wrenches with pivoting heads must be grasped and used properly to prevent an

incorrect reading

Click to enlarge

Some torque wrenches (usually of the click type) may be equipped with a pivot head which can allow it to be used in

areas of limited access. BUT, it must be used properly. To hold a pivot head wrench, grasp the handle lightly, and as

you pull on the handle, it should be floated on the pivot point. If the handle comes in contact with the yoke extension

during the process of pulling, there is a very good chance the torque readings will be inaccurate because this could alter

the wrench loading point. The design of the handle is usually such as to make it inconvenient to deliberately misuse the

wrench.

It should be mentioned that the use of any U-joint, wobble or extension will have an effect on the torque readings,

no matter what type of wrench you are using. For the most accurate readings, install the socket directly on the

wrench driver. If necessary, straight extensions (which hold a socket directly under the wrench driver) will have

the least effect on the torque reading. Avoid any extension that alters the length of the wrench from the handle

to the head/driving point (such as a crow's foot). U-joint or wobble extensions can greatly affect the readings;

avoid their use at all times.

Rigid Case (Direct Reading)

The rigid case (direct reading) torque wrench uses a dial indicator to show torque

Click to enlarge

A rigid case or direct reading torque wrench is equipped with a dial indicator to show torque values. One advantage of

these wrenches is that they can be held at any position on the wrench without affecting accuracy. These wrenches are

often preferred because they tend to be compact, easy to read and have a great degree of accuracy.

TORQUE ANGLE METERS

Some specifications require the use of a torque angle meter (mechanical protractor)

Click to enlarge

Because the frictional characteristics of each fastener or threaded hole will vary, clamp loads which are based strictly on

torque will vary as well. In most applications, this variance is not significant enough to cause worry. But, in certain

applications, a manufacturer's engineers may determine that more precise clamp loads are necessary (such is the case

with many aluminum cylinder heads). In these cases, a torque angle method of installation would be specified. When

installing fasteners which are torque angle tightened, a predetermined seating torque and standard torque wrench are

usually used first to remove any compliance from the joint. The fastener is then tightened the specified additional

portion of a turn measured in degrees. A torque angle gauge (mechanical protractor) is used for these applications.

Standard and Metric Measurements

Throughout this manual, specifications are given to help you determine the condition of various components on your

vehicle, or to assist you in their installation. Some of the most common measurements include length (in. or cm/mm),

torque (ft. lbs., inch lbs. or Nm) and pressure (psi, in. Hg, kPa or mm Hg). In most cases, we strive to provide the

proper measurement as determined by the manufacturer's engineers.

Though, in some cases, that value may not be conveniently measured with what is available in your toolbox. Luckily,

many of the measuring devices which are available today will have two scales so the Standard or Metric measurements

may easily be taken. If any of the various measuring tools which are available to you do not contain the same scale as

listed in the specifications, use the accompanying conversion factors to determine the proper value.

The conversion factor chart is used by taking the given specification and multiplying it by the necessary conversion

factor. For instance, looking at the first line, if you have a measurement in inches such as "free-play should be 2 in." but

your ruler reads only in millimeters, multiply 2 in. by the conversion factor of 25.4 to get the metric equivalent of

50.8mm. Likewise, if the specification was given only in a Metric measurement, for example in Newton Meters (Nm),

then look at the center column first. If the measurement is 100 Nm, multiply it by the conversion factor of 0.738 to get

73.8 ft. lbs.

Standard and metric conversion factors chart

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Serial Number Identification

Vehicle

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER

The VIN plate is visible through the driver's side lower corner of the windshield

Breakdown of the VIN number sequence

Click to enlarge

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped onto a metal tag mounted in the upper left-hand

corner of the instrument panel, visible through the windshield from the outside of the vehicle. The

VIN is also presented on various other labels and identifiers found throughout the vehicle.

The VIN is an identification code comprised of a seventeen-digit combination of numbers and letters.

Each letter, number or combination represents different items, such as manufacturer, type of

restraint system, line, series and body type, engine, model year and consecutive unit number.

The last six digits of the VIN indicate the assembly plant production sequence number of each

individual vehicle manufactured at the factory. The last six digits are alphanumeric and begin with

A00001, after A99999, the next number would be B00001.

Refer to the accompanying specifications chart and illustrations for VIN breakdown.

VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL

The vehicle certification label is typically located on the driver's door pillar

Click to enlarge

Location of various codes on the vehicle certification label

Click to enlarge

The vehicle certification label is affixed to the driver's side door pillar. The vehicle certification label

displays various, important information regarding your particular vehicle, such as the following:

Name of the manufacturer

Month and year of manufacture

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)

Tire sizes

Rim sizes

Tire cold psi

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Front axle accessory reserve capacity in pounds

Suspension identification including auxiliary/optional components

Spring identification

Vehicle body type

Brake type

Moulding option (if applicable)

Tape stripe or paint stripe option (if applicable)

Interior trim/seat/cab style type

Exterior paint code(s)

Axle ratio identification

Model type

Transmission identification

District sales office

Special order codes

Date of manufacture

Engine

The engine identification label is typically located on the valve cover

Click to enlarge

There are several ways to determine engine type supplied with the vehicle. The Vehicle Emission

Control Information (VECI) decal mounted under the hood is perhaps the simplest way to identify the

vehicle's engine. Another way is to refer to the 10th digit of the VIN along with the necessary chart to

determine the meaning of that digit (engine code). In addition to those labels, there is also a specific

engine identification label (or tag) attached to the engine.

The engine identification tag identifies the cubic inch displacement of the engine, the model year, the

year and month in which the engine was built, where it was built and the change level number. The

change level is usually the number one (1), unless there are parts on the engine that will not be

completely interchangeable and will require minor modification.

The engine identification tag is typically located on one of the valve covers, usually the driver's side

except on the 7.3L diesel engine. The diesel engine I.D. number is stamped on the front of the block,

in front of the left cylinder head.

Transmission

Typical breakdown of a transmission identification label

Click to enlarge

An identification tag is located on the transmission case, typically on the left side rearward of the

transmission range (TR) sensor on automatic transmissions and on the side of the case on a manual

transmission. A transmission code is also located on the vehicle certification label, however it is

alphanumeric code and only identifies the model of the transmission and cannot be used for parts

ordering or application.

Drive Axle

The axle identification tag is typically attached to one of the axle cover bolts

Differential identification label. Limited slip units have a separate tag secured by a cover

bolt

Click to enlarge

The drive axle code is found stamped on a flat surface on the axle support arm or on the axle tube

next to the differential housing. Also, and more easily found, is a tag secured by one of the

differential housing cover bolts. The axle tag has several identifying codes on it including

manufacturer, axle ratio, ring gear diameter and date of manufacture. The axle code is also listed on

the certification label, however, this is a code is not the axle ratio, but a two digit code (4 X 2 only)

and three digit code (4 X 4 only) with the third digit being the front axle identifying code.

Transfer Case

A tag is affixed to the case mounting bolts, usually where the case splits. The information on the tag is

needed when ordering service parts. If the tag is removed for any reason, make sure it is reinstalled.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Routine Maintenance and Tune-up

Introduction

Proper maintenance and tune-up is the key to long and trouble-free vehicle life, and the work can

yield its own rewards. Studies have shown that a properly tuned and maintained vehicle can achieve

better gas mileage than an out-of-tune vehicle. As a conscientious owner and driver, set aside a

Saturday morning, say once a month, to check or replace items which could cause major problems

later. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts

cost you, the date, and the exact odometer reading at the time. Keep all receipts for such items as

engine oil and filters, so that they may be referred to in case of related problems or to determine

operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these receipts are the only proof you have that the

required maintenance was performed. In the event of a warranty problem, these receipts will be

invaluable.

The literature provided with your vehicle when it was originally delivered includes the factory

recommended maintenance schedule. If you no longer have this literature, replacement copies are

usually available from the dealer. A maintenance schedule is provided later in this section, in case

you do not have the factory literature.

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

Air Cleaner (Element)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except 1997-98 Super Duty and All Diesel

Click to enlarge

Detach the outlet tube clamp and ...

... carefully pull the tube and lid from the air cleaner housing

Remove the air cleaner element from the air cleaner housing

Inspect the condition of the air cleaner element and replace as necessary

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the outlet tube clamp from around the air cleaner element housing and remove the tube

from the air cleaner housing. Position the tube out of the way.

3. Remove the air cleaner element from the air cleaner housing.

To install:

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

1997-98 Super Duty

Typical air cleaner assembly for 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the outlet tube clamps from the air cleaner housing and remove the tubes from the

housing and secure out of the way.

3. Remove the screws securing the air cleaner cover and remove the cover.

4. Remove the air cleaner element from the air cleaner housing.

To install:

5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

7.3L Diesel Engine

the air cleaner assembly—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

The 7.3L engine is equipped with a air restriction gauge also referred to as a "filter

minder". This device alerts the operator, or person performing the maintenance, of the

condition of the filter element. When the "filter minder" reaches the YELLOW band in the

gauge, it is time to replace the filter. The gauge can be reset by pushing the button on the

end of the gauge.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube-to-radiator support retaining screw.

3. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube clamps and remove the outlet duct.

4. Loosen the clamp retaining the engine air cleaner-to-air cleaner outlet tube adapter.

5. Loosen the nuts retaining the upper air cleaner housing to the lower air cleaner housing and

remove the upper housing.

6. Remove the air cleaner element from the housing.

To install:

7. Before installing a new element, inspect the following:

1. The housing gasket surfaces must be clean and

undamaged.

2. The water drain tube should be free of obstructions.

3. The housing should be free of dents, ruptures and holes.

WARNING

A special filtering element is used on the 7.3L diesel engine. Use only

a specific Ford filter element for replacement. Use of other elements

can result in serious engine damage. Do not attempt to clean the

element, replace it only.

8. The balance of the installation is the reverse of removal.

Fuel Filter

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The fuel filter is typically located along the frame rail

Remove the safety retaining clip from the fuel lines

Spread the special release tool open and ...

... place the tool on the filter inlet/outlet tube and carefully press the tool inward to

release the garter spring on the spring lock coupling and ...

... remove the fuel line from the filter

Remove the filter from the clamp by pulling it straight out, but be careful, as you can see

fuel will most likely spill out of the filter

The fuel filter is located along the frame rail under the vehicle and is accessible only from

underneath the vehicle.

CAUTION

Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel.

Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated

area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a

spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the

work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for

fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the

possibility of fire or explosion.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

4. Remove the fitting safety clips by gently prying them off. Usually they are held to the fuel lines by

small retaining straps, however take care not to lose them.

5. Insert fuel line disconnect tool T90T-9550-S into the quick-connect fittings on the fuel lines.

6. Push the tool into the spring lock coupling and release the garter spring and separate the fitting.

Twisting the line sometimes aid in releasing stubborn connections.

CAUTION

Fuel will most likely run out of the line after it is removed from the

filter.

7. Repeat the procedure for the other fuel line.

8. Grasp the fuel filter and carefully pull it straight out of the retaining clamp.

To install:

9. Push the filter into the retaining clamp aligning the front lip on the filter into the groove.

10. Attach the fuel lines to the filter until an audible click is heard from the connection. Sometimes

the click is very quiet, so test the fitting by gently pulling on the line to see if it comes loose.

11. Attach the fitting safety clips by snapping them into place over the fittings.

12. Lower the vehicle

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Start the vehicle and check the filter and lines for leaks.

Fuel/Water Separator

DRAINING

The 7.3L diesel engine is equipped with a fuel/water separator in the fuel supply line. A "Water in

Fuel" indicator light is provided on the instrument panel to alert the driver. The light should glow

when the ignition switch is in the start position to indicate proper light and water sensor function. If

the light glows continuously while the engine is running, the water must be drained from the

separator as soon as possible to prevent damage to the fuel injection system.

1. Shut off the engine. Failure to shut the engine OFF before draining the separator will cause air to

enter the system.

2. Place an appropriate container under the drain valve on the water separator.

3. Manually open the drain valve, and allow the valve to remain open for approximately 15 seconds,

or until clear water-free diesel fuel flows out.

4. After the water is completely drained, close the water drain valve.

5. Start the engine and check the "Water in Fuel" indicator light; it should not be lit. If it is lit and

continues to stay so, there is a problem somewhere else in the fuel system.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the separator assembly

Click to enlarge

Disconnect the two cylinder head fuel supply lines from the separator assembly

Click to enlarge

Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel filter/water separator

Click to enlarge

Remove the fuel filter/water separator retaining bolts

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect both battery ground cables.

2. Open the fuel filter/water separator drain valve to release the fuel pressure. Completely drain the

fuel filter/water separator assembly.

3. Disconnect the fuel supply and fuel return lines.

4. Disconnect the two cylinder head fuel supply lines.

5. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel filter/water separator.

6. Remove the fuel filter/water separator from the vehicle.

7. Disconnect the exhaust back pressure sensor electrical connector.

8. Remove the fuel filter/water separator retaining bolts.

WARNING

Clean all the fuel residue from the engine compartment. Failure to do

so can cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.

To install:

9. Installation is the reverse of removal.

PCV Valve

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

PCV valve location—7.5L EFI engine

Click to enlarge

PCV valve location— 5.8L EFI engines

Click to enlarge

The PCV valve is located in the passenger side valve cover—4.6L engine; 4.2L, 5.4L and

6.8L similar

Grasp the valve and gently remove it from the grommet in the valve cover

Remove the valve from the hose by carefully twisting it out

1. Disconnect the oil separator hose from the PCV valve.

2. Remove the PCV valve from the grommet in the crankcase.

3. Inspect the grommet for deterioration.

To install:

4. If necessary, replace the crankcase grommet.

5. Install the PCV valve.

6. Install the hose.

Evaporative Canister

SERVICING

The fuel evaporative emission control canister should be inspected for damage or leaks at the hose

fittings every 24,000 miles. Repair or replace any old or cracked hoses. Replace the canister if it is

damaged in any way. The canister is located in the engine compartment on all F250HD/SD, F350,

and all Super Duty trucks. . The canister is located on the rear crossmember on all F150, F250,

Expedition and Navigator models.

For more detailed canister service, see Section 4 .

Battery

PRECAUTIONS

Always use caution when working on or near the battery. Never allow a tool to bridge the gap

between the negative and positive battery terminals. Also, be careful not to allow a tool to provide a

ground between the positive cable/terminal and any metal component on the vehicle. Either of these

conditions will cause a short circuit, leading to sparks and possible personal injury.

Do not smoke, have an open flame or create sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the battery

are very explosive and, if ignited, could cause severe injury or death.

All batteries, regardless of type, should be carefully secured by a battery hold-down device. If this is

not done, the battery terminals or casing may crack from stress applied to the battery during vehicle

operation. A battery which is not secured may allow acid to leak out, making it discharge faster; such

leaking corrosive acid can also eat away at components under the hood.

Always visually inspect the battery case for cracks, leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance

on the battery case or on nearby components would indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the

battery is cracked, it should be replaced immediately.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

A battery that is not sealed must be checked periodically for electrolyte level. You cannot add water to

a sealed maintenance-free battery (though not all maintenance-free batteries are sealed); however,

a sealed battery must also be checked for proper electrolyte level, as indicated by the color of the

built-in hydrometer "eye."

A typical location for the built-in hydrometer on maintenance-free batteries

Always keep the battery cables and terminals free of corrosion. Check these components about once a

year. Refer to the removal, installation and cleaning procedures outlined in this section.

Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt can help completely discharge a battery that is not

used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to

flush this off with clear water. DO NOT let any of the solution into the filler holes. Baking soda

neutralizes battery acid and will de-activate a battery cell.

Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small

current drains which are constantly drawing current from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may

drain a battery on a vehicle that is in storage and not used for 6-8 weeks. Vehicles that have

additional accessories such as a cellular phone, an alarm system or other devices that increase

parasitic load may discharge a battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for 6-8 weeks in a secure

area and the alarm system, if present, is not necessary, the negative battery cable should be

disconnected at the onset of storage to protect the battery charge.

Remember that constantly discharging and recharging will shorten battery life. Take care not to allow

a battery to be needlessly discharged.

BATTERY FLUID

Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a month, or more often in hot weather or during

periods of extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed batteries, the level can be checked either

through the case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell caps on opaque-cased types. The

electrolyte level in each cell should be kept filled to the split ring inside each cell, or the line marked

on the outside of the case.

If the level is low, add only distilled water through the opening until the level is correct. Each cell is

separate from the others, so each must be checked and filled individually. Distilled water should be

used, because the chemicals and minerals found in most drinking water are harmful to the battery

and could significantly shorten its life.

If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle should be driven several miles to allow the water to

mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could freeze.

Although some maintenance-free batteries have removable cell caps for access to the electrolyte, the

electrolyte condition and level on all sealed maintenance-free batteries must be checked using the

built-in hydrometer "eye." The exact type of eye varies between battery manufacturers, but most

apply a sticker to the battery itself explaining the possible readings. When in doubt, refer to the

battery manufacturer's instructions to interpret battery condition using the built-in hydrometer.

Although the readings from built-in hydrometers found in sealed batteries may vary, a

green eye usually indicates a properly charged battery with sufficient fluid level. A dark

eye is normally an indicator of a battery with sufficient fluid, but one which may be low in

charge. And a light or yellow eye is usually an indication that electrolyte supply has

dropped below the necessary level for battery (and hydrometer) operation. In this last

case, sealed batteries with an insufficient electrolyte level must usually be discarded.

Checking the Specific Gravity

A hydrometer is required to check the specific gravity on all batteries that are not maintenance-free.

On batteries that are maintenance-free, the specific gravity is checked by observing the built-in

hydrometer "eye" on the top of the battery case. Check with your battery's manufacturer for proper

interpretation of its built-in hydrometer readings.

On non-maintenance-free batteries, the fluid level can be checked through the case on

translucent models; the cell caps must be removed on other models

If the fluid level is low, add only distilled water through the opening until the level is

correct

Check the specific gravity of the battery's electrolyte with a hydrometer

CAUTION

Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. If you should splash any on

your skin or in your eyes, flush the affected area with plenty of clear

water. If it lands in your eyes, get medical help immediately.

The fluid (sulfuric acid solution) contained in the battery cells will tell you many things about the

condition of the battery. Because the cell plates must be kept submerged below the fluid level in

order to operate, maintaining the fluid level is extremely important. And, because the specific gravity

of the acid is an indication of electrical charge, testing the fluid can be an aid in determining if the

battery must be replaced. A battery in a vehicle with a properly operating charging system should

require little maintenance, but careful, periodic inspection should reveal problems before they leave

you stranded.

As stated earlier, the specific gravity of a battery's electrolyte level can be used as an indication of

battery charge. At least once a year, check the specific gravity of the battery. It should be between

1.20 and 1.26 on the gravity scale. Most auto supply stores carry a variety of inexpensive battery

testing hydrometers. These can be used on any non-sealed battery to test the specific gravity in each

cell.

The battery testing hydrometer has a squeeze bulb at one end and a nozzle at the other. Battery

electrolyte is sucked into the hydrometer until the float is lifted from its seat. The specific gravity is

then read by noting the position of the float. If gravity is low in one or more cells, the battery should

be slowly charged and checked again to see if the gravity has come up. Generally, if after charging,

the specific gravity between any two cells varies more than 50 points (0.50), the battery should be

replaced, as it can no longer produce sufficient voltage to guarantee proper operation.

CABLES

Once a year (or as necessary), the battery terminals and the cable clamps should be cleaned. Loosen

the clamps and remove the cables, negative cable first. On batteries with posts on top, the use of a

puller specially made for this purpose is recommended. These are inexpensive and available in most

auto parts stores. Side terminal battery cables are secured with a small bolt.

Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal with a wire brush, until all corrosion, grease, etc., is

removed and the metal is shiny. It is especially important to clean the inside of the clamp thoroughly

(an old knife is useful here), since a small deposit of foreign material or oxidation there will prevent a

sound electrical connection and inhibit either starting or charging. Special tools are available for

cleaning these parts, one type for conventional top post batteries and another type for side terminal

batteries. It is also a good idea to apply some dielectric grease to the terminal, as this will aid in the

prevention of corrosion.

After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall the cables, negative cable last; DO NOT hammer

the clamps onto battery posts. Tighten the clamps securely, but do not distort them. Give the clamps

and terminals a thin external coating of grease after installation, to retard corrosion.

Check the cables at the same time that the terminals are cleaned. If the cable insulation is cracked or

broken, or if the ends are frayed, the cable should be replaced with a new cable of the same length

and gauge.

Maintenance is performed with household items and with special tools like this post

cleaner

The underside of this special battery tool has a wire brush to clean post terminals

Place the tool over the battery posts and twist to clean until the metal is shiny

A special tool is available to pull the clamp from the post

Click to enlarge

The cable ends should be cleaned as well

Click to enlarge

CHARGING

CAUTION

The chemical reaction which takes place in all batteries generates

explosive hydrogen gas. A spark can cause the battery to explode

and splash acid. To avoid serious personal injury, be sure there is

proper ventilation and take appropriate fire safety precautions when

connecting, disconnecting, or charging a battery and when using

jumper cables.

A battery should be charged at a slow rate to keep the plates inside from getting too hot. However, if

some maintenance-free batteries are allowed to discharge until they are almost "dead," they may

have to be charged at a high rate to bring them back to "life." Always follow the charger

manufacturer's instructions on charging the battery.

REPLACEMENT

Belts

When it becomes necessary to replace the battery, select one with an amperage rating equal to or

greater than the battery originally installed. Deterioration and just plain aging of the battery cables,

starter motor, and associated wires makes the battery's job harder in successive years. The slow

increase in electrical resistance over time makes it prudent to install a new battery with a greater

capacity than the old.

INSPECTION

Inspect the belts for signs of glazing or cracking. A glazed belt will be perfectly smooth from slippage,

while a good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge

of the belt and run outward. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately. It is

best to replace all drive belts at one time, as a preventive maintenance measure, during this service

operation.

There are typically 3 types of accessory drive belts found on vehicles today

Click to enlarge

An example of a healthy drive belt

Deep cracks in this belt will cause flex, building up heat that will eventually lead to belt

failure

The cover of this belt is worn, exposing the critical reinforcing cords to excessive wear

Installing too wide a belt can result in serious belt wear and/or breakage

ADJUSTMENT

All engines use an automatic drive belt tensioner. On the 7.5L engine, there are two belts, one uses

the automatic tensioner, while the alternator belt requires periodic tensioning. On all belts using an

automatic tensioner, no adjustment is necessary because the tensioner adjusts for belt wear. To

adjust the tension on the 7.5L engine alternator belt, loosen the adjusting bolts and rotate the

alternator until the proper tension is on the drive belt and tighten the adjusting bolts. It is

recommended that the belt tension indicator mark be inspected with the engine OFF at 60,000 mile

(96,000 km) intervals. If the wear indicator mark is out of specification, the drive belt is worn or an

incorrect drive belt has been installed.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The drive belt routing can be found on a label under the hood or in the engine compartment. If the

label is missing, there are diagrams of all the engines covered in this manual. However, be sure to

verify the belt routing on your engine matches one of these before removing the belt. If the routing

does not match one of our diagrams, the belt could possibly be routed wrong. A good idea is to draw

your own diagram of the belt routing prior to removing the old belt from the engine.

Accessory serpentine belt routing—5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—7.5L engine

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—7.3L turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—7.5L F-super duty motorhome engine

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L engines with A/C

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L engines without A/C

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—4.2L engine with A/C

Click to enlarge

Accessory serpentine belt routing—4.2L engine without A/C

Click to enlarge

Usually a label is affixed in the engine compartment with the proper belt routing on it

Click to enlarge

The tensioner on the 4.6L engine requires a 3 /

8

inch drive tool to rotate the tensioner

Rotate the tensioner and remove the drive belt from around one of the pulleys

Except 7.5L Engine Alternator Belt

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

The proper belt routing is included in this section, however, it is a good idea to make a

simple drawing of the belt routing of your engine for installation reference before

removing the belt.

2. Rotate the drive belt tensioner to relieve the belt tension. The procedure is as follows:

1. On the 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L engines, use a

1

/

2

drive tool or a

special belt removal tool to rotate the tensioner in the

proper direction as directed by the rotation arrow on the

tensioner.

2. On the 4.2L, 5.8L, 7.5L and 7.3L engines, use a 16mm

socket and drive tool or a special belt removal tool to

rotate the tensioner in the proper direction as directed by

the rotation arrow on the tensioner.

3. While holding the tensioner back, remove the belt from

around one pulley.

3. Remove the belt from around the remaining pulleys.

To install:

4. Position the belt around the pulleys in the proper routing with the exception of one pulley. It is

easiest to keep the belt off of the easiest pulley to access. Hold the belt tight with your hands

and using the proper tool for your engine, rotate the tensioner in the correct direction and place

the belt around the final pulley.

5. Release the tensioner slowly until it sits firmly against the belt.

If the tensioner does not touch the belt or the wear indicator marks are not within

specification, the belt is routed incorrectly or the wrong belt has been installed.

6. Connect the negative battery cable.

7.5L Engine Alternator Belt

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Loosen the adjusting bolts on the alternator.

3. Carefully rotate the alternator to relieve the tension on the drive belt.

4. Remove the drive belt from around the pulleys and remove.

To install:

5. Properly route the drive belt around the pulleys.

6. Rotate the alternator until the proper tension is achieved and tighten the adjusting bolts.

7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hoses

INSPECTION

Upper and lower radiator hoses, along with the heater hoses, should be checked for deterioration,

leaks and loose hose clamps at least every 15,000 miles (24,000 km). It is also wise to check the

hoses periodically in early spring and at the beginning of the fall or winter when you are performing

other maintenance. A quick visual inspection could discover a weakened hose which might have left

you stranded if it had remained unrepaired.

Whenever you are checking the hoses, make sure the engine and cooling system are cold. Visually

inspect for cracking, rotting or collapsed hoses, and replace as necessary. Run your hand along the

length of the hose. If a weak or swollen spot is noted when squeezing the hose wall, the hose should

be replaced.

The cracks developing along this hose are a result of age-related hardening

A hose clamp that is too tight can cause older hoses to separate and tear on either side

of the clamp

A soft spongy hose (identifiable by the swollen section) will eventually burst and should

be replaced

Hoses are likely to deteriorate from the inside if the cooling system is not periodically

flushed

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the radiator pressure cap.

CAUTION

Never remove the pressure cap while the engine is running, or

personal injury from scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If

possible, wait until the engine has cooled to remove the pressure

cap. If this is not possible, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure cap

and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back while the pressure is

released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure

has been released, use the cloth to turn and remove the cap.

2. Position a clean container under the radiator and/or engine draincock or plug, then open the

drain and allow the cooling system to drain to an appropriate level. For some upper hoses, only

a little coolant must be drained. To remove hoses positioned lower on the engine, such as a

lower radiator hose, the entire cooling system must be emptied.

CAUTION

When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted

by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is

left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will

prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable

container. Coolant may be reused unless it is contaminated or several

years old.

3. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the hose requiring replacement. Clamps are usually

either of the spring tension type (which require pliers to squeeze the tabs and loosen) or of the

screw tension type (which require screw or hex drivers to loosen). Pull the clamps back on the

hose away from the connection.

4. Twist, pull and slide the hose off the fitting, taking care not to damage the neck of the component

from which the hose is being removed.

If the hose is stuck at the connection, do not try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp tool

under the hose end in an effort to free it, as the connection and/or hose may become

damaged. Heater connections especially may be easily damaged by such a procedure. If

the hose is to be replaced, use a single-edged razor blade to make a slice along the portion

of the hose which is stuck on the connection, perpendicular to the end of the hose. Do not

cut deep so as to prevent damaging the connection. The hose can then be peeled from the

connection and discarded.

5. Clean both hose mounting connections. Inspect the condition of the hose clamps and replace

them, if necessary.

To install:

6. Dip the ends of the new hose into clean engine coolant to ease installation.

7. Slide the clamps over the replacement hose, then slide the hose ends over the connections into

position.

8. Position and secure the clamps at least

1

/

4

in. (6.35mm) from the ends of the hose. Make sure

they are located beyond the raised bead of the connector.

9. Close the radiator or engine drains and properly refill the cooling system with the clean drained

engine coolant or a suitable mixture of ethylene glycol coolant and water.

10. If available, install a pressure tester and check for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available, run

the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (allowing the system to naturally

pressurize), then check for leaks.

CAUTION

If you are checking for leaks with the system at normal operating

temperature, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving or

hot engine parts. Once temperature has been reached, shut the

engine OFF, and check for leaks around the hose fittings and

connections which were removed earlier.

CV-Boots

INSPECTION

The CV (Constant Velocity) boots should be checked for damage each time the oil is changed and any

other time the vehicle is raised for service. These boots keep water, grime, dirt and other damaging

matter from entering the CV-joints. Any of these could cause early CV-joint failure which can be

expensive to repair. Heavy grease thrown around the inside of the front wheel(s) and on the brake

caliper/drum can be an indication of a torn boot. Thoroughly check the boots for missing clamps and

tears. If the boot is damaged, it should be replaced immediately. Please refer to Section 7 for

procedures.

CV-boots must be inspected periodically for damage

A torn boot should be replaced immediately

Spark Plugs

A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode

extends downward through the center of the insulator and protrudes a small distance. Located at the

end of the plug and attached to the side of the outer metal shell is the side electrode. The side

electrode bends in at a 90° angle so that its tip is just past and parallel to the tip of the center

electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in thousandths of an inch or

hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug gap.

The spark plug does not produce a spark, but instead provides a gap across which the current can arc.

The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000 volts (depending on the type and application)

which travels through the wires to the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and

jumps the gap to the side electrode, and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion

chamber.

Cross-section of a spark plug

Click to enlarge

SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE

Spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The longer the insulator (or the

farther it extends into the engine), the hotter the plug will operate; the shorter the insulator (the

closer the electrode is to the block's cooling passages) the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs

little heat and remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is not hot

enough to burn them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently to misfiring. A plug that absorbs

too much heat will have no deposits but, due to the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away

quickly and might possibly lead to preignition or other ignition problems. Preignition takes place when

plug tips get so hot that they glow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture before the actual spark

occurs. This early ignition will usually cause a pinging during low speeds and heavy loads.

Spark plug heat range

Click to enlarge

The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct heat range when picking a spark plug is: if most of

your driving is long distance, high speed travel, use a colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and

go, use a hotter plug. Original equipment plugs are generally a good compromise between the 2

styles and most people never have the need to change their plugs from the factory-recommended

heat range.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Grasp the plug wire and carefully twist the wire to release the retainer from the spark

plug

If the plug wire is stubborn, a pair of special removal pliers is recommended to remove

the wires from the plugs

Carefully remove the plug wire from the cylinder head

A special spark plug socket with a rubber insert is needed to remove the spark plugs.

Typically the spark plugs on engines covered by this manual require a 5 /

8

socket

Using a suitable drive tool and the special socket, loosen the spark plug and ...

... remove the spark plug from the engine

Clean out the spark plug bore and threads before installing the new spark plug

An inspection of the old spark plugs will give a general idea of the condition of the motor,

compare the spark plugs to the chart in this section

A piece of fuel line or a small hose is useful in installing the spark plugs to avoid stripping

the threads

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000

km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in.

(0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement

also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as

much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of

modern fuel injection combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems will often

allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that

efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).

When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all

at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you

begin and number the wires with tape.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and if the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine

to thoroughly cool.

2. Except on the 5.4L and 6.8L engines, carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then

pull upward and remove the boot from the spark plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the

wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.

3. On the 5.4L and 6.8L engines, unplug the electrical connector on the individual cylinder ignition

coil and remove the retaining screw. Remove the coil from the cylinder head, taking care in

removing it from the spark plug.

4. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no

harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is

removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.

Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the

threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone

spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.

5. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the

spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore.

WARNING

Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible

extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear

force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly

and frustrating repairs.

To install:

6. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire

must be replaced.

7. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper

size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be

able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.

8. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost

completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again. In small, hard to reach areas,

an old spark plug wire and boot could be used as a threading tool. The boot will hold the plug

while you twist the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to twist before it would allow

the plug to crossthread.

WARNING

Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always carefully

thread the plug by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent the

possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head bore.

9. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer,

seat the plug, then tighten about

1

/

4

turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat

plug, tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.

10. Except for the 5.4L and 6.8L engines, apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the

end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot

to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently

pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.

11. On the 5.4L and 6.8L engines, slide the coil into the cylinder head and engage the coil onto the

spark plug. Tighten the retaining screw and attach the electrical connector.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION & GAPPING

Check the plugs for deposits and wear. If they are not going to be replaced, clean the plugs

thoroughly. Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be

cleaned on a spark plug cleaning machine, which can sometimes be found in service stations, or you

can do an acceptable job of cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are cleaned, the electrodes must

be filed flat. Use an ignition points file, not an emery board or the like, which will leave deposits. The

electrodes must be filed perfectly flat with sharp edges; rounded edges reduce the spark plug voltage

by as much as 50%.

Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the

body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and the specified size wire gauge (please

refer to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must pass between the electrodes with a slight

drag.

NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum type spark plug.

Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a

flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A

round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass

through the electrode gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger.

The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one shouldn't go through at all. Wire

gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust the side electrode until the

proper distance is obtained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center electrode. Also, be careful

not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and break off within the engine,

requiring removal of the cylinder head to retrieve it.

Inspect the spark plug to determine engine running conditions

Click to enlarge

A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service

Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

Adjusting the spark plug gap

If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat—WARNING: do

not file platinum plugs

Spark Plug Wires

TESTING

Checking plug wire resistance through the distributor cap with an ohmmeter

Click to enlarge

Checking individual plug wire resistance with a digital ohmmeter

The 5.4L, 6.8L and 7.3L engines do not utilize spark plug wires. The 5.4L and 6.8L engines

use a direct ignition or "coil over plug" type ignition in which each individual cylinder has

it's own coil attached to a boot that fits on the spark plug. The 7.3L engine is a diesel, and

as anyone familiar with diesels is aware, diesel engines do not utilize an ignition system,

instead rely on high compression ratios and the extreme cylinder temperatures, as well as

a glow plug system used on cold starts to fire the fuel/air mixture.

At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the

insulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the distributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged

wiring.

Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the resistance of the wires should be checked with an

ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to

start in damp weather.

To check resistance, an ohmmeter should be used on each wire to test resistance between the end

connectors. Remove and install/replace the wires in order, one-by-one.

Resistance on these wires should be 4,000-6,000 ohms per foot. To properly measure this, remove

the wires from the plugs and the coil pack. Do not pierce any ignition wire for any reason. Measure

only from the two ends. Take the length and multiply it by 6,000 to achieve the maximum resistance

allowable in each wire, resistance should not exceed this value. If resistance does exceed this value,

replace the wire.

Whenever the high tension wires are removed from the plugs, coil, or distributor, silicone

grease must be applied to the boot before reconnection. Coat the entire interior surface

with Ford silicone grease D7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Grasp the plug wire and carefully twist the wire to release the retainer from the spark

plug

If the plug wire is stubborn, a pair of special removal pliers is recommended to remove

the wires from the plugs

Carefully remove the plug wire from the cylinder head

Remove the plug wires from the ignition coil by squeezing the retaining tabs and

carefully lifting the wires up

Disconnect the plug wire retaining clips from the wires and ...

... remove the plug wires from the engine

The 5.4L, 6.8L and 7.3L engines do not utilize spark plug wires. The 5.4L and 6.8L engines

use a direct ignition or "coil over plug" type ignition in which each individual cylinder has

it's own coil attached to a boot that fits on the spark plug. The 7.3L engine is a diesel, and

as anyone familiar with diesels is aware, diesel engines do not utilize an ignition system,

instead rely on high compression ratios and the extreme cylinder temperatures, as well as

a glow plug system used on cold starts to fire the fuel/air mixture.

1. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of its routing.

Don't rely on wiring diagrams or sketches for spark plug wire routing. Improper

arrangement of spark plug wires will induce voltage between wires, causing misfiring and

surging. Be careful to arrange spark plug wires properly.

2. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from

the coil pack or the distributor cap.

3. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil pack, if equipped, by squeezing the locking tabs and

twisting while pulling upward.

4. Disconnect the ignition wire from the distributor cap, if equipped, by gently twisting and pulling

upward on the wire.

To install:

5. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the old wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new

set.

6. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielectric grease and install the wire on the coil pack or

distributor cap. Make sure the wire snaps into place.

7. Route the wire in the exact path as the original and connect the wire to the spark plug.

8. Repeat the process for each remaining wire, working from the longest wire to the shortest.

Distributor Cap and Rotor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The distributor cap is held to the distributor by retaining clips

Click to enlarge

The rotor has a locating boss which must be aligned on the distributor

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Label and disconnect the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.

Depending on the reason for removing the distributor cap, it may make more sense to leave

the spark plug wires attached. This is handy if you are testing spark plug wires, or if

removal is necessary to access other components, and wire length allows you to reposition

the cap out of the way.

3. Detach the two spring clips that secure the cap to the distributor.

4. Remove the cap from the distributor.

The rotor is press fit onto the distributor shaft.

5. Pull the rotor straight up to remove.

To install:

6. Inspect the cap and rotor as described below.

7. Align the rotor locating boss on the distributor shaft and install by pressing into place.

8. Align the distributor cap on the distributor and secure the spring clips.

9. Connect the spark plug wires to their proper terminals.

10. Connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION

After removing the distributor cap and rotor, clean the components (both inside and outside of the

cap) using soap and water. If compressed air is available, carefully dry the components (wearing

safety goggles) or allow the parts to air dry. You can dry them with a clean, soft cloth, but don't

leave any lint or moisture behind.

Once the cap and rotor have been thoroughly cleaned, check for cracks, carbon tracks, burns or other

physical damage. Make sure the distributor cap's center button is free of damage. Check the cap

terminals for dirt or corrosion. Always check the rotor blade and spring closely for damage. Replace

any components where damage is found.

Inspection points for the distributor cap

Click to enlarge

Inspection points for the distributor rotor

Click to enlarge

Ignition Timing

GENERAL INFORMATION

Periodic adjustment of the ignition timing is not necessary for any engine covered by this manual. If

ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and

repair the problem as necessary.

Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark

plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of

the compression stroke.

Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes

TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power

stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the

crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the

cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will

not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be

used by the engine.

The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC

(BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before

each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The

combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel

mileage, and low emissions.

As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even

sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. On all engines covered in this

manual, spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the Powertrain Control Module

(PCM), based on input from engine sensors.

If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will

occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition

or "knocking and pinging". If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the

piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced

down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.

Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The

marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic

(dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire. Every time the spark plug

fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the

exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark

on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in

specified alignment.

WARNING

When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get

the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

INSPECTION

1. Place the vehicle in P or N with the parking brake applied and the drive wheels blocked.

2. Connect a suitable tachometer and timing light to the engine, as per the manufacturer's

instructions.

3. Remove the SPOUT (Spark Output) connector.

4. Start the engine and allow it reach normal operating temperature. Make sure all accessories are

off.

5. Check that the idle speed is within the specified rpm range.

6. Following the timing light manufacturer's instructions, aim the timing light and check the ignition

timing. As the light flashes, note the position of the mark on the crankshaft pulley against the

scale on the timing cover. Timing should be 8-12 degrees BTDC.

7. If the ignition timing is not within specification, refer to ADJUSTMENT, in this Section.

8. Install the SPOUT connector.

9. Stop the engine and remove the tachometer and timing light.

ADJUSTMENT

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

If the ignition timing is not within specification, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and carefully

rotate the distributor in the correct direction to achieve the desired advance/retard required to

correct the timing. Recheck the timing as you rotate the distributor and when the desired timing is

reached, tighten the hold-down bolt.

Except For 5.8L, 6.8L And 7.3L Engines

If the ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose

and repair the problem as necessary.

Valve Lash

ADJUSTMENT

The only engines requiring a valve lash adjustment are the 5.8L and 7.5L engines. All other engines

are contain hydraulic self-adjusting lifters or other devices.

5.8L Engine

Mark the damper on the 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

Click to enlarge

1. Rotate the crankshaft by hand so that No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Make a

chalk mark on the damper at that point, then, make 2 more chalk marks about 90° apart in a

clockwise direction.

2. With No. 1 at TDC, slowly apply pressure, using Lifter Bleed-down wrench T70P-6513-A, or

equivalent, to completely bottom the lifter, on the following valves:

No. 1 intake and exhaust

No. 4 intake

No. 3 exhaust

No. 8 intake

No. 7 exhaust

Take care to avoid excessive pressure that might bend the pushrod. Hold the lifter in this position and

check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip. Allowable clearance is 2.5-

5.0mm (0.098-0.198 in.) with a desired clearance of 3.1-4.4mm (0.123-0.173 in.).

3. If the clearance is less than specified, install a shorter pushrod. If the clearance is greater than

specified, install a longer pushrod.

4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise—viewed from the front—180°, until the next chalk mark is

aligned with the timing pointer. Repeat the procedure for:

No. 3 intake

No. 2 exhaust

No. 7 intake

No. 6 exhaust

5. Rotate the crankshaft to the next chalk mark—90°—and repeat the procedure for:

No. 2 intake

No. 4 exhaust

No. 5 intake and exhaust

No. 6 intake

No. 8 exhaust

7.5L ENGINE

1. Rotate the crankshaft by hand so that No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Make a

chalk mark on the damper at that point.

2. With No. 1 at TDC, slowly apply pressure, using Lifter Bleed-down wrench T70P-6513-A, or

equivalent, to completely bottom the lifter, on the following valves:

No. 1 intake and exhaust

No. 3 intake

No. 4 exhaust

No. 7 intake

No. 5 exhaust

No. 8 intake and exhaust

Take care to avoid excessive pressure that might bend the pushrod. Hold the lifter in this position and

check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip. Allowable clearance is 1.9-

4.4mm (0.075-0.175 in.) with a desired clearance of 2.5-3.8mm (0.100-0.150 in.).

3. If the clearance is less than specified, install a shorter pushrod. If the clearance is greater than

specified, install a longer pushrod.

4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise—viewed from the front—360°, until the chalk mark is once again

aligned with the timing pointer. Repeat the procedure for:

No. 2 intake and exhaust

No. 4 intake

No. 3 exhaust

No. 5 intake

No. 7 exhaust

No. 6 intake and exhaust

Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustments

The engines covered by this manual utilize sophisticated fuel injection systems in which an engine

control computer utilizes information from various sensors to control idle speed and air/fuel mixtures.

No periodic adjustments are either necessary or possible on these systems. If a problem is

suspected, please refer to Sections 4 of this manual for more information on electronic engine

controls and fuel injection.

Air Conditioning System

SYSTEM SERVICE & REPAIR

It is recommended that the A/C system be serviced by an EPA 609 certified automotive

technician utilizing a refrigerant recovery/recycling machine.

The do-it-yourselfer should not service his/her own vehicle's A/C system for many reasons, including

legal concerns, personal injury, environmental damage and cost. The following are some of the

reasons why you may decide not to service your own vehicle's A/C system.

According to the U.S. Clean Air Act, it is a federal crime to service or repair (involving the refrigerant)

a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) system for money without being EPA certified. It is also

illegal to vent R-134a refrigerant into the atmosphere.

State and/or local laws may be more strict than the federal regulations, so be sure to check with your

state and/or local authorities for further information. For further federal information on the legality of

servicing your A/C system, call the EPA Stratospheric Ozone Hotline.

Federal law dictates that a fine of up to $25,000 may be levied on people convicted of

venting refrigerant into the atmosphere. Additionally, the EPA may pay up to $10,000 for

information or services leading to a criminal conviction of the violation of these laws.

When servicing an A/C system you run the risk of handling or coming in contact with refrigerant,

which may result in skin or eye irritation or frostbite. Although low in toxicity (due to chemical

stability), inhalation of concentrated refrigerant fumes is dangerous and can result in death; cases of

fatal cardiac arrhythmia have been reported in people accidentally subjected to high levels of

refrigerant. Some early symptoms include loss of concentration and drowsiness.

Also, refrigerants can decompose at high temperatures (near gas heaters or open flame), which may

result in hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid and phosgene (a fatal nerve gas).

R-134a refrigerant is a greenhouse gas which, if allowed to vent into the atmosphere, will contribute

to global warming (the Greenhouse Effect).

It is usually more economically feasible to have a certified MVAC automotive technician perform A/C

system service to your vehicle. While it is illegal to service an A/C system without the proper

equipment, the home mechanic would have to purchase an expensive refrigerant recovery/recycling

machine to service his/her own vehicle.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Although the A/C system should not be serviced by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can

be practiced and A/C system inspections can be performed to help maintain the efficiency of the

vehicle's A/C system. For preventive maintenance, perform the following:

The easiest and most important preventive maintenance for your A/C system is to be sure that it

is used on a regular basis. Running the system for five minutes each month (no matter what the

season) will help ensure that the seals and all internal components remain lubricated.

Some newer vehicles automatically operate the A/C system compressor whenever the

windshield defroster is activated. When running, the compressor lubricates the A/C system

components; therefore, the A/C system would not need to be operated each month.

In order to prevent heater core freeze-up during A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain a

proper antifreeze protection. Use a hand-held coolant tester (hydrometer) to periodically check

the condition of the antifreeze in your engine's cooling system.

Antifreeze should not be used longer than the manufacturer specifies.

For efficient operation of an air conditioned vehicle's cooling system, the radiator cap should

have a holding pressure which meets manufacturer's specifications. A cap which fails to hold

these pressures should be replaced.

Any obstruction of or damage to the condenser configuration will restrict air flow which is

essential to its efficient operation. It is, therefore, a good rule to keep this unit clean and in

proper physical shape.

Bug screens which are mounted in front of the condenser (unless they are original

equipment) are regarded as obstructions.

The condensation drain tube expels any water, which accumulates on the bottom of the

evaporator housing, into the engine compartment. If this tube is obstructed, the air conditioning

performance can be restricted and condensation buildup can spill over onto the vehicle's floor.

SYSTEM INSPECTION

Although the A/C system should not be serviced by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can

be practiced and A/C system inspections can be performed to help maintain the efficiency of the

vehicle's A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the following:

The easiest and often most important check for the air conditioning system consists of a visual

inspection of the system components. Visually inspect the air conditioning system for refrigerant

leaks, damaged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive belt tension and/or condition, plugged

evaporator drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or broken wires, blown fuses, corroded

connections and poor insulation.

A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily

residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the surrounding air and appears greasy. Through

time, this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt impregnated grease.

For a thorough visual and operational inspection, check the following:

Check the surface of the radiator and condenser for dirt, leaves or other material which might

block air flow.

Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the system for leaks.

Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned. When the air conditioning is operating, make sure

the drive belt is free of noise or slippage.

Make sure the blower motor operates at all appropriate positions, then check for distribution of

the air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX.

Keep in mind that under conditions of high humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents may

not feel as cold as expected, even if the system is working properly. This is because

vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat more effectively than dry air, thereby making

humid air more difficult to cool.

Make sure the air passage selection lever is operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to

normal operating temperature, then make sure the temperature selection lever is operating

correctly.

Windshield Wipers

ELEMENT (REFILL) CARE & REPLACEMENT

For maximum effectiveness and longest element life, the windshield and wiper blades should be kept

clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left

on the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield carefully with a commercial glass cleaner at least

once a month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag afterwards. Do not attempt to move

wipers across the windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive mechanism will result.

To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade elements, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed position

and the ignition switch in the ACC position. When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on the

windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF .

Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be

replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary with usage, although ozone deterioration

usually limits element life to about one year. If the wiper pattern is smeared or streaked, or if the

blade chatters across the glass, the elements should be replaced. It is easiest and most sensible to

replace the elements in pairs.

If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades, there are several different types of refills and your

vehicle might have any kind. Aftermarket blades and arms rarely use the exact same type blade or

refill as the original equipment. Here are some typical aftermarket blades; not all may be available

for your vehicle:

The Anco® type uses a release button that is pushed down to allow the refill to slide out of the yoke

jaws. The new refill slides back into the frame and locks in place.

Some Trico® refills are removed by locating where the metal backing strip or the refill is wider. Insert

a small screwdriver blade between the frame and metal backing strip. Press down to release the refill

from the retaining tab.

Other types of Trico® refills have two metal tabs which are unlocked by squeezing them together. The

rubber filler can then be withdrawn from the frame jaws. A new refill is installed by inserting the refill

into the front frame jaws and sliding it rearward to engage the remaining frame jaws. There are

usually four jaws; be certain when installing that the refill is engaged in all of them. At the end of its

travel, the tabs will lock into place on the front jaws of the wiper blade frame.

Another type of refill is made from polycarbonate. The refill has a simple locking device at one end

which flexes downward out of the groove into which the jaws of the holder fit, allowing easy release.

By sliding the new refill through all the jaws and pushing through the slight resistance when it

reaches the end of its travel, the refill will lock into position.

To replace the Tridon® refill, it is necessary to remove the wiper blade. This refill has a plastic

backing strip with a notch about 1 in. (25mm) from the end. Hold the blade (frame) on a hard

surface so that the frame is tightly bowed. Grip the tip of the backing strip and pull up while twisting

counterclockwise. The backing strip will snap out of the retaining tab. Do this for the remaining tabs

until the refill is free of the blade. The length of these refills is molded into the end and they should

be replaced with identical types.

Regardless of the type of refill used, be sure to follow the part manufacturer's instructions closely.

Make sure that all of the frame jaws are engaged as the refill is pushed into place and locked. If the

metal blade holder and frame are allowed to touch the glass during wiper operation, the glass will be

scratched.

Bosch® wiper blade and fit kit

Lexor® wiper blade and fit kit

Pylon® wiper blade and adapter

Trico® wiper blade and fit kit

Tripledge® wiper blade and fit kit

To remove and install a Lexor® wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and slide in a

new one

On Pylon® inserts, the clip at the end has to be removed prior to sliding the insert off

On Trico® wiper blades, the tab at the end of the blade must be turned up ...

... then the insert can be removed. After installing the replacement insert, bend the tab

back

The Tripledge® wiper blade insert is removed and installed using a securing clip

Tires and Wheels

Common sense and good driving habits will afford maximum tire life. Fast starts, sudden stops and

hard cornering are hard on tires and will shorten their useful life span. Make sure that you don't

overload the vehicle or run with incorrect pressure in the tires. Both of these practices will increase

tread wear.

For optimum tire life, keep the tires properly inflated, rotate them often and have the wheel

alignment checked periodically.

Inspect your tires frequently. Be especially careful to watch for bubbles in the tread or sidewall, deep

cuts or underinflation. Replace any tires with bubbles in the sidewall. If cuts are so deep that they

penetrate to the cords, discard the tire. Any cut in the sidewall of a radial tire renders it unsafe. Also

look for uneven tread wear patterns that may indicate the front end is out of alignment or that the

tires are out of balance.

TIRE ROTATION

Tires must be rotated periodically to equalize wear patterns that vary with a tire's position on the

vehicle. Tires will also wear in an uneven way as the front steering/suspension system wears to the

point where the alignment should be reset.

Rotating the tires will ensure maximum life for the tires as a set, so you will not have to discard a tire

early due to wear on only part of the tread. Regular rotation is required to equalize wear.

When rotating "unidirectional tires," make sure that they always roll in the same direction. This means

that a tire used on the left side of the vehicle must not be switched to the right side and vice-versa.

Such tires should only be rotated front-to-rear or rear-to-front, while always remaining on the same

side of the vehicle. These tires are marked on the sidewall as to the direction of rotation; observe the

marks when reinstalling the tire(s).

Common tire rotation patterns for 4 and 5-wheel rotations

Click to enlarge

Unidirectional tires are identifiable by sidewall arrows and/or the word "rotation"

Some styled or "mag" wheels may have different offsets front to rear. In these cases, the rear wheels

must not be used up front and vice-versa. Furthermore, if these wheels are equipped with

unidirectional tires, they cannot be rotated unless the tire is remounted for the proper direction of

rotation.

The compact or space-saver spare is strictly for emergency use. It must never be included

in the tire rotation or placed on the vehicle for everyday use.

TIRE DESIGN

For maximum satisfaction, tires should be used in sets of four. Mixing of different types (radial, biasbelted, fiberglass belted) must be avoided. In most cases, the vehicle manufacturer has designated a

type of tire on which the vehicle will perform best. Your first choice when replacing tires should be to

use the same type of tire that the manufacturer recommends.

When radial tires are used, tire sizes and wheel diameters should be selected to maintain ground

clearance and tire load capacity equivalent to the original specified tire. Radial tires should always be

used in sets of four.

P-Metric tire coding

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

Radial tires should never be used on only the front axle.

When selecting tires, pay attention to the original size as marked on the tire. Most tires are described

using an industry size code sometimes referred to as P-Metric. This allows the exact identification of

the tire specifications, regardless of the manufacturer. If selecting a different tire size or brand,

remember to check the installed tire for any sign of interference with the body or suspension while

the vehicle is stopping, turning sharply or heavily loaded.

Snow Tires

Good radial tires can produce a big advantage in slippery weather, but in snow, a street radial tire

does not have sufficient tread to provide traction and control. The small grooves of a street tire

quickly pack with snow and the tire behaves like a billiard ball on a marble floor. The more open,

chunky tread of a snow tire will self-clean as the tire turns, providing much better grip on snowy

surfaces.

To satisfy municipalities requiring snow tires during weather emergencies, most snow tires carry

either an M + S designation after the tire size stamped on the sidewall, or the designation "allseason." In general, no change in tire size is necessary when buying snow tires.

Most manufacturers strongly recommend the use of 4 snow tires on their vehicles for reasons of

stability. If snow tires are fitted only to the drive wheels, the opposite end of the vehicle may become

very unstable when braking or turning on slippery surfaces. This instability can lead to unpleasant

endings if the driver can't counteract the slide in time.

Note that snow tires, whether 2 or 4, will affect vehicle handling in all non-snow situations. The stiffer,

heavier snow tires will noticeably change the turning and braking characteristics of the vehicle. Once

the snow tires are installed, you must re-learn the behavior of the vehicle and drive accordingly.

Consider buying extra wheels on which to mount the snow tires. Once done, the "snow

wheels" can be installed and removed as needed. This eliminates the potential damage to

tires or wheels from seasonal removal and installation. Even if your vehicle has styled

wheels, see if inexpensive steel wheels are available. Although the look of the vehicle will

change, the expensive wheels will be protected from salt, curb hits and pothole damage.

TIRE STORAGE

If they are mounted on wheels, store the tires at proper inflation pressure. All tires should be kept in a

cool, dry place. If they are stored in the garage or basement, do not let them stand on a concrete

floor; set them on strips of wood, a mat or a large stack of newspaper. Keeping them away from

direct moisture is of paramount importance. Tires should not be stored upright, but in a flat position.

INFLATION & INSPECTION

The importance of proper tire inflation cannot be overemphasized. A tire employs air as part of its

structure. It is designed around the supporting strength of the air at a specified pressure. For this

reason, improper inflation drastically reduces the tire's ability to perform as intended. A tire will lose

some air in day-to-day use; having to add a few pounds of air periodically is not necessarily a sign of

a leaking tire.

Two items should be a permanent fixture in every glove compartment: an accurate tire pressure

gauge and a tread depth gauge. Check the tire pressure (including the spare) regularly with a pocket

type gauge. Too often, the gauge on the end of the air hose at your corner garage is not accurate

because it suffers too much abuse. Always check tire pressure when the tires are cold, as pressure

increases with temperature. If you must move the vehicle to check the tire inflation, do not drive

more than a mile before checking. A cold tire is generally one that has not been driven for more than

three hours.

Tires should be checked frequently for any sign of puncture or damage

Tires with deep cuts, or cuts which bulge, should be replaced immediately

Examples of inflation-related tire wear patterns

Click to enlarge

Radial tires have a characteristic sidewall bulge; don't try to measure pressure by looking

at the tire. Use a quality air pressure gauge

Common tire wear patterns and causes

Click to enlarge

A plate or sticker is normally provided somewhere in the vehicle (door post, hood, tailgate or trunk

lid) which shows the proper pressure for the tires. Never counteract excessive pressure build-up by

bleeding off air pressure (letting some air out). This will cause the tire to run hotter and wear quicker.

CAUTION

Never exceed the maximum tire pressure embossed on the tire! This

is the pressure to be used when the tire is at maximum loading, but

it is rarely the correct pressure for everyday driving. Consult the

owner's manual or the tire pressure sticker for the correct tire

pressure.

Once you've maintained the correct tire pressures for several weeks, you'll be familiar with the

vehicle's braking and handling personality. Slight adjustments in tire pressures can fine-tune these

characteristics, but never change the cold pressure specification by more than 2 psi. A slightly softer

tire pressure will give a softer ride but also yield lower fuel mileage. A slightly harder tire will give

crisper dry road handling but can cause skidding on wet surfaces. Unless you're fully attuned to the

vehicle, stick to the recommended inflation pressures.

All tires made since 1968 have built-in tread wear indicator bars that show up as 1 /

2

in. (13mm) wide

smooth bands across the tire when

1

/

16

in. (1.5mm) of tread remains. The appearance of tread wear

indicators means that the tires should be replaced. In fact, many states have laws prohibiting the use

of tires with less than this amount of tread.

Tread wear indicators will appear when the tire is worn

Accurate tread depth indicators are inexpensive and handy

You can check your own tread depth with an inexpensive gauge or by using a Lincoln head penny. Slip

the Lincoln penny (with Lincoln's head upside-down) into several tread grooves. If you can see the

top of Lincoln's head in 2 adjacent grooves, the tire has less than 1 /

16

in. (1.5mm) tread left and

should be replaced. You can measure snow tires in the same manner by using the "tails" side of the

Lincoln penny. If you can see the top of the Lincoln memorial, it's time to replace the snow tire(s).

A penny works well for a quick check of tread depth

CARE OF SPECIAL WHEELS

If you have invested money in magnesium, aluminum alloy or sport wheels, special precautions

should be taken to make sure your investment is not wasted and that your special wheels look good

for the life of the vehicle.

Special wheels are easily damaged and/or scratched. Occasionally check the rims for cracking, impact

damage or air leaks. If any of these are found, replace the wheel. But in order to prevent this type of

damage and the costly replacement of a special wheel, observe the following precautions:

Use extra care not to damage the wheels during removal, installation, balancing, etc. After

removal of the wheels from the vehicle, place them on a mat or other protective surface. If they

are to be stored for any length of time, support them on strips of wood. Never store tires and

wheels upright; the tread may develop flat spots.

When driving, watch for hazards; it doesn't take much to crack a wheel.

When washing, use a mild soap or non-abrasive dish detergent (keeping in mind that detergent

tends to remove wax). Avoid cleansers with abrasives or the use of hard brushes. There are

many cleaners and polishes for special wheels.

If possible, remove the wheels during the winter. Salt and sand used for snow removal can

severely damage the finish of a wheel.

Make certain the recommended lug nut torque is never exceeded or the wheel may crack. Never

use snow chains on special wheels; severe scratching will occur.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

FLUIDES AND LUBRICANTS

Fluid Disposal

Used fluids such as engine oil, transmission fluid, antifreeze and brake fluid are hazardous wastes and

must be disposed of properly. Before draining any fluids, consult with your local authorities; in many

areas, waste oil, antifreeze, etc. is being accepted as a part of recycling programs. A number of

service stations and auto parts stores are also accepting waste fluids for recycling.

Be sure of the recycling center's policies before draining any fluids, as many will not accept different

fluids that have been mixed together.

Fuel and Engine Oil Recommendations

GASOLINE ENGINES

Fuel

All 1997-00 Ford F-Series, Expedition and Lincoln Navigators must use lead-free gasoline with an

(R+M)/2 minimum anti-knock index rating of at least 87. The Lightning Pick-up engine requires 91

octane due to the fact that it is high-performance and the engine is supercharged. Use of gasoline

with an anti-knock index rating lower than specified can cause persistent, heavy spark knock which

can lead to engine damage.

Oil

Recommended oil viscosity usage according to outside air temperature

Click to enlarge

Ford recommends that SAE 5W-30 viscosity engine oil should be used for all climate

conditions, however, SAE 10W-30 is acceptable for vehicles operated in moderate-to-hot

climates.

When adding oil to the crankcase or changing the oil or filter, it is important that oil of an equal

quality to original equipment be used in your truck. The use of inferior oils may void the warranty,

damage your engine, or both.

The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number of oil indicates the viscosity of the oil (its

ability to lubricate at a given temperature). The lower the SAE number, the lighter the oil; the lower

the viscosity, the easier it is to crank the engine in cold weather but the less the oil will lubricate and

protect the engine in high temperatures. This number is marked on every oil container.

Oil viscosity's should be chosen from those oils recommended for the lowest anticipated temperatures

during the oil change interval. Due to the need for an oil that embodies both good lubrication at high

temperatures and easy cranking in cold weather, multigrade oils have been developed. Basically, a

multigrade oil is thinner at low temperatures and thicker at high temperatures. For example, a 10W-

40 oil (the W stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight (SAE 10) oil when the truck

is first started and the oil is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces

quicker and offer less resistance to starter motor cranking than, say, a straight 30 weight (SAE 30)

oil. But after the engine reaches operating temperature, the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40

weight (SAE 40) oil, its heavier weight providing greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than

a straight 30 weight oil.

Look for the API oil identification label when choosing your engine oil

The API (American Petroleum Institute) designations, also found on the oil container, indicates the

classification of engine oil used under certain given operating conditions. Only oils designated for use

Service SG, or latest superceding designation, heavy duty detergent should be used in your truck.

Oils of the SG type perform may functions inside the engine besides their basic lubrication. Through a

balanced system of metallic detergents and polymeric dispersants, the oil prevents high and low

temperature deposits and also keeps sludge and dirt particles in suspension. Acids, particularly

sulfuric acid, as well as other by-products of engine combustion are neutralized by the oil. If these

acids are allowed to concentrate, they can cause corrosion and rapid wear of the internal engine

parts.

CAUTION

Non-detergent motor oils or straight mineral oils should not be used in

your Ford gasoline engine.

Synthetic Oil

There are many excellent synthetic and fuel-efficient oils currently available that can provide better

gas mileage, longer service life and, in some cases, better engine protection. These benefits do not

come without a few hitches, however; the main one being the price of synthetic oil, which is

significantly more expensive than conventional oil.

Synthetic oil is not for every truck and every type of driving, so you should consider your engine's

condition and your type of driving. Also, check your truck's warranty conditions regarding the use of

synthetic oils.

DIESEL ENGINES

Diesel Fuel

Fuel makers produce two grades of diesel fuel, No. 1 and No. 2, for use in automotive diesel engines.

Generally speaking, No. 2 fuel is recommended over No. 1 for driving in temperatures above 20°F

(-7°C). In fact, in many areas, No. 2 diesel is the only fuel available. By comparison, No. 2 diesel fuel

is less volatile than No. 1 fuel, and gives better fuel economy. No. 2 fuel is also a better injection

pump lubricant.

Two important characteristics of diesel fuel are its cetane number and its viscosity.

The cetane number of a diesel fuel refers to the ease with which a diesel fuel ignites. High cetane

numbers mean that the fuel will ignite with relative ease or that it ignites well at low temperatures.

Naturally, the lower the cetane number, the higher the temperature must be to ignite the fuel. Most

commercial fuels have cetane numbers that range from 35 to 65. No. 1 diesel fuel generally has a

higher cetane rating than No. 2 fuel.

Viscosity is the ability of a liquid, in this case diesel fuel, to flow. Using straight No. 2 diesel fuel below

20°F (-7°C) can cause problems, because this fuel tends to become cloudy, meaning wax crystals

begin forming in the fuel. 20°F (-7°C) is often call the cloud point for No. 2 fuel. In extremely cold

weather, No. 2 fuel can stop flowing altogether. In either case, fuel flow is restricted, which can result

in no start condition or poor engine performance. Fuel manufacturers often winterize No. 2 diesel fuel

by using various fuel additives and blends (no. 1 diesel fuel, kerosene, etc.) to lower its winter time

viscosity. Generally speaking, though, No. 1 diesel fuel is more satisfactory in extremely cold

weather.

No. 1 and No. 2 diesel fuels will mix and burn with no ill effects, although the engine

manufacturer recommends one or the other. Consult the owner's manual for information.

Depending on local climate, most fuel manufacturers make winterized No. 2 fuel available seasonally.

Many automobile manufacturers publish pamphlets giving the locations of diesel fuel stations

nationwide. Contact the local dealer for information.

Do not substitute home heating oil for automotive diesel fuel. While in some cases, home heating oil

refinement levels equal those of diesel fuel, many times they are far below diesel engine

requirements. The result of using dirty home heating oil will be a clogged fuel system, in which case

the entire system may have to be dismantled and cleaned.

One more word on diesel fuels. Don't thin diesel fuel with gasoline in cold weather. The lighter

gasoline, which is more explosive, will cause rough running at the very least, and may cause

extensive damage to the fuel system if enough is used.

Engine Oil

Diesel engines require different engine oil from those used in gasoline engines. Besides doing the

things gasoline engine oil does, diesel oil must also deal with increased engine heat and the diesel

blow-by gases, which create sulfuric acid, a high corrosive.

Under the American Petroleum Institute (API) classifications, gasoline engine oil codes begin with an

S , and diesel engine oil codes begin with a C . This first letter designation is followed by a second

letter code which explains what type of service (heavy, moderate, light) the oil is meant for. For

example, the top of a typical oil can will include: API SERVICES SH, CD. This means the oil in the can

is a superior, heavy duty engine oil when used in a diesel engine.

Many diesel manufacturers recommend an oil with both gasoline and diesel engine API classifications.

Ford specifies the use of an engine oil conforming to API service categories of both SH and

CD. DO NOT use oils labeled as only SH or only CD as they could cause engine damage.

OPERATION IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES

If you plan to drive your truck outside the United States or Canada, there is a possibility that fuels will

be too low in anti-knock quality and could produce engine damage. It is wise to consult with local

authorities upon arrival in a foreign country to determine the best fuels available.

Engine

OIL LEVEL CHECK

Grasp the engine oil dipstick and ...

... pull the dipstick out of the tube

Wipe the dipstick clean and replace it into the tube to inspect the oil level

The dipstick has two sides, one has the MIN and MAX markings, and the other has the

part number of the dipstick, ensure that the oil level is between the MIN and MAX lines

To remove the oil fill cap, grasp the cap and turn it counter-clockwise until ...

... the cap unscrews from the valve cover. Be sure to place the oil cap in a safe place so

as not to lose it

Place a funnel directly into the oil fill port and pour oil into the engine

CAUTION

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause

a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every

effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves

should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any

other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used

engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be

used.

The engine oil dipstick is located on the driver's side of the engine near that side's exhaust manifold,

with the exception of the 7.3L diesel which is on the passenger side.

Engine oil level should be checked every time you put fuel in the vehicle or are under the hood

performing other maintenance.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2. The engine may be either hot or cold when checking oil level. However, if it is hot, wait a few

minutes after the engine has been turned OFF to allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase. If

the engine is cold, do not start it before checking the oil level.

3. Open the hood and locate the engine oil dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it clean, and

reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.

4. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it horizontally, read the oil level. The oil should be

between the MIN and MAX mark. If the oil is below the MIN mark, add oil of the proper viscosity

through the capped opening of the valve cover.

5. Replace the dipstick, and check the level again after adding any oil. Be careful not to overfill the

crankcase. Approximately one quart of oil will raise the level from the low mark to the high mark.

Excess oil will generally be consumed at an accelerated rate even if no damage to the engine

seals occurs.

OIL & FILTER CHANGE

Loosen the engine oil drain plug. Typically the oil drain plug requires a 16 mm wrench

Loosen the drain plug but do not remove it from the oil pan, make sure to keep constant

inward pressure on the drain plug because ...

... the oil drains out rather fast when the drain plug is removed

Loosen the oil filter using a suitable oil filter wrench

After the filter is sufficiently loose, carefully unscrew it using hand power and ...

... remove the filter from the engine

Before installing a new oil filter, lightly coat the rubber gasket with clean oil

The oil and filter should be changed every 5,000 miles (8,000 km) under normal service and every

3,000 miles (5,000 km) under severe service.

CAUTION

The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause

a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every

effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves

should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any

other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used

engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be

used.

The engine oil and oil filter should be changed at the recommended intervals on the

Maintenance Chart. Though some manufacturers have at times recommended changing the

filter only at every other oil change, Chilton recommends that you always change the filter

with the oil. The benefit of fresh oil is quickly lost if the old filter is clogged and unable to

do its job. Also, leaving the old filter in place leaves a significant amount of dirty oil in the

system.

The oil should be changed more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in a very dusty area. Before

draining the oil, make sure that the engine is at operating temperature. Hot oil will hold more

impurities in suspension and will flow better, allowing the removal of more oil and dirt.

It is a good idea to warm the engine oil first so it will flow better. This can be accomplished by 15-20

miles of highway driving. Fluid which is warmed to normal operating temperature will flow faster,

drain more completely and remove more contaminants from the engine.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jackstands.

2. If necessary, remove the skid plate or splash shield.

3. Make sure the oil drain plug is at the lowest point on the oil pan. If not, you may have to raise the

vehicle slightly higher on one jackstand (side) than the other.

4. Before you crawl under the vehicle, take a look at where you will be working and gather all the

necessary tools, such as a few wrenches or a ratchet and strip of sockets, the drain pan, some

clean rags and, if the oil filter is more accessible from underneath the vehicle, you will also want

to grab a bottle of oil, the new filter and a filter wrench at this time.

5. Position the drain pan beneath the oil pan drain plug. Keep in mind that the fast flowing oil, which

will spill out as you pull the plug from the pan, will flow with enough force that it could miss the

pan. Position the drain pan accordingly and be ready to move the pan more directly beneath the

plug as the oil flow lessens to a trickle.

Typically the engine oil drain plug requires a 16mm drive tool.

6. Loosen the drain plug with a wrench (or socket and driver), then carefully unscrew the plug with

your fingers. Use a rag to shield your fingers from the heat. Push in on the plug as you unscrew

it so you can feel when all of the screw threads are out of the hole (and so you will keep the oil

from seeping past the threads until you are ready to remove the plug). You can then remove the

plug quickly to avoid having hot oil run down your arm. This will also help assure that have the

plug in your hand, not in the bottom of a pan of hot oil.

CAUTION

Be careful of the oil; when at operating temperature, it is hot enough

to cause a severe burn.

7. Allow the oil to drain until nothing but a few drops come out of the drain hole. Check the drain

plug to make sure the threads and sealing surface are not damaged. Carefully thread the plug

into position and tighten it with a torque wrench to 9-11 ft. lbs. (11-16 Nm). If a torque wrench is

not available, snug the drain plug and give a slight additional turn. You don't want the plug to fall

out (as you would quickly become stranded), but the pan threads are EASILY stripped from

overtightening (and this can be time consuming and/or costly to fix).

8. To remove the filter, you may need an oil filter wrench since the filter may have been fitted too

tightly and/or the heat from the engine may have made it even tighter. A filter wrench can be

obtained at any auto parts store and is well-worth the investment. Loosen the filter with the filter

wrench. With a rag wrapped around the filter, unscrew the filter from the boss on the side of the

engine. Be careful of hot oil that will run down the side of the filter. Make sure that your drain pan

is under the filter before you start to remove it from the engine; should some of the hot oil

happen to get on you, there will be a place to dump the filter in a hurry and the filter will usually

spill a good bit of dirty oil as it is removed.

9. Wipe the base of the mounting boss with a clean, dry cloth. When you install the new filter, smear

a small amount of fresh oil on the gasket with your finger, just enough to coat the entire contact

surface. When you tighten the filter, rotate it about a quarter-turn after it contacts the mounting

boss (or follow any instructions which are provided on the filter or parts box).

10. Install the skid plate or splash shield as necessary.

WARNING

Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine

oil will result in severe engine damage.

11. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle, then IMMEDIATELY refill the engine

crankcase with the proper amount of oil. DO NOT WAIT TO DO THIS because if you forget and

someone tries to start the vehicle, severe engine damage will occur.

12. Refill the engine crankcase slowly, checking the level often. You may notice that it usually takes

less than the amount of oil listed in the capacity chart to refill the crankcase. But, that is only

until the engine is run and the oil filter is filled with oil. To make sure the proper level is obtained,

run the engine to normal operating temperature, shut the engine OFF, allow the oil to drain back

into the oil pan, and recheck the level. Top off the oil at this time to the fill mark.

If the vehicle is not resting on level ground, the oil level reading on the dipstick may be

slightly off. Be sure to check the level only when the vehicle is sitting level.

13. Drain your used oil in a suitable container for recycling.

Manual Transmission

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or

equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III) in the M5OD manual transmission and ZF 5-speed or

6-speed when used in all models except for those with the 6.8L V-10 gasoline or 7.3L diesel engines.

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon synthetic ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) or equivalent

in the ZF 5-speed or 6-speed when used in conjunction with the 6.8L V-10 gasoline or 7.3L diesel

engines due to the enormous amount of torque these engines creates.

LEVEL CHECK

Manual transmission filler location

Click to enlarge

1. Park the truck on a level surface, turn off the engine, apply the parking brake and block the

wheels.

2. Remove the filler plug from the side of the transmission case with a proper size wrench. The fluid

level should be even with the bottom of the filler hole.

3. If additional fluid is necessary, add it through the filler hole using a siphon pump or squeeze

bottle.

4. Replace the filler plug; do not overtighten.

DRAIN & REFILL

This manual transmission has its drain plug clearly marked

Note how the metal particles cling to this magnetic drain plug bolt

1. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission.

2. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain out.

3. Replace the drain plug, remove the filler plug and fill the transmission to the proper level with the

required fluid.

4. Reinstall the filler plug.

Automatic Transmission

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or

equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

Grasp the dipstick and ...

... remove the dipstick from the tube

Wipe the dipstick clean and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove the dipstick

again

The dipstick has two sides, the level should be checked on the side with the crosshatches. If the level is in the cross-hatched area, do not add fluid

Fluid is added directly into the dipstick tube

Place a suitable funnel into the dipstick tube and ...

... pour the proper fluid into the transmission

The transmission dipstick is typically located near the back of the engine, towards the firewall.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.

2. The transmission should be at normal operating temperature when checking fluid level. To

ensure the fluid is at normal operating temperature, drive the vehicle at least 10 miles.

3. With the selector lever in P and the parking brake applied, start the engine.

4. Open the hood and locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe it

clean, and reinsert it. Make sure the dipstick is fully inserted.

5. Pull the dipstick from its tube again. Holding it horizontally, read the fluid level. The fluid should

be between the MIN and MAX mark. If the fluid is below the MIN mark, add fluid through the

dipstick tube.

6. Insert the dipstick, and check the level again after adding any fluid. Be careful not to overfill the

transmission.

PAN & FILTER SERVICE

The transmission pan is held to the transmission case by retaining bolts. Typically the

retaining bolts require a 10mm socket

Remove the retaining bolts on the transmission pan except ...

... for the bolts on the four corners of the pan

Slowly loosen the four corner bolts and lower the pan

As the pan is lowered fluid will begin to pour out

After the fluid is drained out, remove the pan from the transmission

Remove the transmission filter by gently pulling it out of the valve body. Make sure that

the O-ring on the filter nipple is removed from the valve body, typically it will stay on

the filter nipple

If you happen to find this piece in your transmission pan upon removal, don't panic, it is

a dipstick tube plug that is knocked out on the assembly line while the vehicle is being

built

Remove the transmission pan gasket from the pan and place it in a safe place, the

gasket is reusable

Remove the transmission pan magnets from the pan and ...

... wipe the magnets clean before installing them back into the pan

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the pan and ...

... the transmission case before installing the gasket and pan onto the case

The fluid should be changed according to the schedule in the Maintenance Intervals chart. If the car is

normally used in severe service, such as stop and start driving, trailer towing, or the like, the interval

should be halved. If the car is driven under especially nasty conditions, such as in heavy city traffic

where the temperature normally reaches 90°F (32°C), or in very hilly or mountainous areas, or in

police, taxi, or delivery service, the fluid should be changed according to the severe service schedule.

The fluid must be hot before it is drained; a 20 minute drive should accomplish this.

1. To drain the automatic transmission fluid, the fluid pan must be removed. Raise and safely

support the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the transmission pan, then remove the pan

attaching bolts except on the four corners of the pan.

2. Loosen the four attaching bolts on the corners approximately four turns each, but do not remove

them.

3. Very carefully pry the pan loose on one corner. You can use a small prybar for this if you work

CAREFULLY. Do not distort the pan flange, or score the mating surface of the transmission case.

You'll be very sorry later if you do. As the pan is pried loose, all of the fluid is going to come

pouring out.

4. Carefully break the other corners loose until fluid is flowing steadily from the entire pan.

If the drained fluid is discolored (brown or black), thick, or smells burnt, serious

transmission troubles, probably due to overheating, should be suspected. Your car's

transmission should be inspected by a reliable transmission specialist to determine the

problem.

5. After the fluid is down flowing, remove one corner bolt and attempt to drain any remaining fluid.

Remove the remaining bolts and remove the pan and gasket.

The transmission pan gasket is reusable, do no throw it away.

6. Clean the pan with solvent and allow it to air dry. If you use a rag to wipe out the pan, you risk

leaving bits of lint behind, which will clog the dinky hydraulic passages in the transmission.

7. Remove and discard the filter and the O-ring seal if applicable.

To install:

8. Install a new filter and O-ring, if applicable.

9. Position the gasket on the pan, then install the pan. Tighten the bolts evenly and in rotation to 10

ft. lbs. (13 Nm.). Do not overtighten.

10. Add the recommended automatic transmission fluid to the transmission through the dipstick

tube. You will need a long necked funnel, or a funnel and tube to do this. A quick check of the

capacities chart later in this Section will reveal the capacity of the transmission in your vehicle.

On a first fill after removing the pan and filter, this number should cut into a

1

/

3

and checked on

the dipstick before refilling.

11. With the transmission in P, put on the parking brake, block the front wheels, start the engine and

let it idle. DO NOT RACE THE ENGINE. DO NOT MOVE THE LEVER THROUGH ITS RANGES.

12. With the lever in Park, check the fluid level. If it's OK, take the car out for a short drive, park on a

level surface, and check the level again, as outlined earlier in this section. Add more fluid if

necessary. Be careful not to overfill, which will cause foaming and fluid loss.

Clutch Master Cylinder

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Keep the reservoir topped up with Ford Heavy-Duty Brake fluid Ford specification No. ESA-M6C25-A,

or equivalent; do not overfill.

LEVEL CHECK

The clutch master cylinder is located just to the right of the brake master cylinder along

the firewall

Click to enlarge

The hydraulic fluid reservoirs on these systems are mounted on the firewall. Fluid level checks are

performed like those on the brake hydraulic system. The proper fluid level is indicated by a step on

the reservoir.

CAUTION

Carefully clean the top and sides of the reservoir before opening, to

prevent contamination of the system with dirt, etc. Remove the

reservoir diaphragm before adding fluid, and replace after filling.

Transfer Case

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or

equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

The check/fill and drain plug locations on a typical transfer case

Click to enlarge

1. Park the truck on a level surface, turn off the engine, apply the parking brake and block the

wheels.

2. Remove the check/fill plug from the side of the transfer case with a proper size wrench. The fluid

level should be even with the bottom of the check/fill hole.

3. If additional fluid is necessary, add it through the check/fill hole using a siphon pump or squeeze

bottle.

4. Reinstall the check/fill plug; do not overtighten.

DRAIN & REFILL

Remove the drain plug to drain the fluid out of the transfer case

1. Place a suitable drain pan under the transfer case.

2. Remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain out.

3. Replace the drain plug, remove the check/fill plug and fill the transfer case to the proper level

with the required fluid.

4. Reinstall the check/fill plug.

Drive Axle (Rear and/or Front)

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Use hypoid gear lubricant SAE 80W90. If the differential is of the limited slip type, be sure and use

special limited slip differential additive Ford Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A or equivalent.

LEVEL CHECK

The check/fill plug location—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Loosen the check/fill plug with a

3

/

8

drive tool and ...

... remove the plug from the axle—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Place a finger into the check/fill plug hole to measure the amount of fluid in the

differential —front axle (4 X 4 only)

The check/fill plug location—rear axle

Remove the check/fill plug and check the fluid level by placing a finger into the hole— rear axle

Clean the area around the fill plug, which is located in the housing cover, before removing the plug.

The lubricant level should be maintained to the bottom of the fill hole with the axle in its normal

running position. If lubricant does not appear at the hole when the plug is removed, additional

lubricant should be added.

If the differential is of the limited slip type, be sure and use special limited slip differential

additive.

DRAIN AND REFILL

The drain plug location—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Loosen the drain plug with a

3

/

8

drive tool and ...

... remove the plug from the axle—front axle (4 X 4 only)

Once the drain plug is removed the axle fluid will begin to flow out

Remove the axle cover retaining bolts—rear axle

After the cover bolts are removed, carefully pry the cover loose and ...

... remove the cover from the axle—rear axle

Thoroughly clean the axle housing and cover mating surfaces before reinstalling the

cover—rear axle

Fluid is added directly into the rear axle check/fill plug

Drain and refill the front and rear axle housing every 24,000 miles, or anytime the vehicle is operated

in deep water. Typically front axles have a drain plug located on the cover. Be sure and clean the

area around the drain plug before removing the plug.

The best way to drain a Ford or Dana rear axle is to remove the cover. If desired, you may also

remove the oil with a suction gun. Refill the axle housings with the proper oil.

Cooling System

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends a good quality ethylene glycol based or other aluminum compatible antifreeze for

use in the vehicles covered by this Manual. It is best to add a

50

/

50

mix of antifreeze and distilled

water to avoid diluting the coolant in the system.

LEVEL CHECK

The coolant level should be up to the COLD FILL mark with the engine off and cold

The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment on the inside fenderwells, along the

radiator support behind the headlamps, or between the engine and the radiator on some Super-Duty

models.

The proper coolant level is slightly above the FULL COLD marking on the recovery tank when the

engine is cold. Top off the cooling system using the recovery tank and its marking as a guideline.

Never overfill the recovery tank.

A coolant level that consistently drops is usually a sign of a small, hard to detect leak, although in the

worst case it could be a sign of an internal engine leak. In most cases, you will be able to trace the

leak to a loose fitting or damaged hose.

Evaporating ethylene glycol antifreeze will have a sweet smell and leave small, white (salt-like)

deposits, which can be helpful in tracing a leak.

CAUTION

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot;

serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when

draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are

attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left

in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will

prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a

sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is

contaminated or is several years old.

TESTING FOR LEAKS

Remove the recovery tank cap to allow the pressure tester to be connected to the system

This cooling system requires a threaded adapter for the recovery tank to allow the

pressure tester to be connected

Thread the adapter onto the recovery tank

Pump the cooling system with pressure, making sure not to overpressurize the system or

damage can occur

Watch the gauge on the system and observe the pressure reading

The pressure rating of the cap is usually found on the top of the cap

If a the fluid level of your cooling system is constantly low, the chances of a leak are probable. There

are several ways to go about finding the source of your leak.

The first way should be a visual inspection. During the visual inspection, look around the entire engine

area including the radiator and the heater hoses. The interior of the vehicle should be inspected

behind the glove box and passenger side floorboard area, and check the carpet for any signs of

moisture. The smartest way to go about finding a leak visually is to first inspect any and all joints in

the system such as where the radiator hoses connect to the radiator and the engine. Another thing to

look for is white crusty stains that are signs of a leak where the coolant has already dried.

If a visual inspection cannot find the cause of your leak, a pressure test is a logical and extremely

helpful way to find a leak. A pressure tester will be needed to perform this and if one is not available

they can be purchased or even rented at many auto parts stores. The pressure tester usually has a

standard size radiator cap adapter on the pressure port, however, other adapters are available based

on the size of the vehicle's radiator neck or recovery tank depending on where the pressure tester

connects. when pressurizing the cooling system, make sure you do not exceed the pressure rating of

the system, which can be found on the top of the radiator cap, however, if you have and aftermarket

or replacement cap that does not have the rating on it, 16psi is a standard to use but some vehicles

are higher. Overpressurizing the system can cause a rupture in a hose or worse in the radiator or

heater core and possibly cause an injury or a burn if the coolant is hot. Overpressurizing is normally

controlled by the radiator cap which has a vent valve in it which is opened when the system reaches

it's maximum pressure rating. To pressure test the system:

The pressure test should be performed with the engine OFF.

1. Remove the radiator or recovery tank cap.

2. Using the proper adapter, insert it onto the opening and connect the pressure tester,

3. Begin pressurizing the system by pumping the pressure tester and watching the gauge, when the

maximum pressure is reached, stop.

4. Watch the gauge slowly and see if the pressure on the gauge drops, if it does, a leak is definitely

present.

5. If the pressure stayed somewhat stable, visually inspect the system for leaks. If the pressure

dropped, repressurize the system and then visually inspect the system.

6. If no signs of a leak are noticed visually, pressurize the system to the maximum pressure rating

of the system and leave the pressure tester connected for about 30 minutes. Return after 30

minutes and verify the pressure on the gauge, if the pressure dropped more than 20%, a leak

definitely exists, if the pressure drop is less than 20%, the system is most likely okay.

Another way coolant is lost is by a internal engine leak, causing the oil to be contaminated or the

coolant to be burned in the process of combustion and sent out the exhaust. To check for oil

contamination, remove the dipstick and check the condition of the oil in the oil pan. If the oil is murky

and has a white or beige "milkshake" look to it, the coolant is contaminating the oil through an

internal leak and the engine must be torn down to find the leak. If the oil appears okay, the coolant

can be burned and going out the tailpipe. A quick test for this is a cloud of white smoke appearing

from the tailpipe, especially on start-up. On cold days, the white smoke will appear, this is due to

condensation and the outside temperature, not a coolant leak. If the "smoke test" does not verify the

situation, removing the spark plugs one at a time and checking the electrodes for a green or white

tint can verify an internal coolant leak and identify which cylinder(s) is the culprit and aiding your

search for the cause of the leak. If the spark plugs appear okay, another method is to use a gas

analyzer or emissions tester, or one of several hand-held tools that most professional shops possess.

This tools are used to check the cooling system for the presence of Hydrocarbons (HC's) in the

coolant.

DRAIN & REFILL

Open the valve on the petcock until the coolant begins to flow out of the drain hole

Follow any instructions about coolant system service found on labels in the engine

compartment

Click to enlarge

Grasp the recovery tank cap and turn it counterclockwise to ...

... remove it from the recovery tank

Pour the proper coolant to water mixture directly into the recovery tank

Ensure that the engine is completely cool prior to starting this service.

CAUTION

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot;

serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when

draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are

attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left

in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will

prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a

sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is

contaminated or is several years old.

1. Remove the recovery tank or radiator cap.

2. Raise and support the vehicle.

3. Place a drain pan of sufficient capacity under the radiator and open the petcock (drain) on the

radiator.

Plastic petcocks easily bind. Before opening a plastic radiator petcock, spray it with some

penetrating lubricant.

4. Drain the cooling system completely.

5. Close the petcock.

6. Remove the drain pan.

7. Lower the vehicle.

8. Determine the capacity of the cooling system, then properly refill the system with a

50

/

50 mixture

of fresh coolant and distilled water.

9. Leave the recovery tank or radiator cap off to aid in bleeding the system.

10. Start the engine and allow it to idle until the thermostat opens (the upper radiator hose will

become hot). The coolant level should go down, this is normal as the system bleeds the air

pockets out of the system.

11. Refill the system with coolant to the proper level.

12. Turn the engine OFF and check for leaks.

FLUSHING & CLEANING THE SYSTEM

Periodically remove all debris from the radiator fins

1. Drain the cooling system completely as described earlier.

2. Close the petcock and fill the system with a cooling system flush (clean water may also be used,

but is not as efficient).

3. Idle the engine until the upper radiator hose gets hot.

4. Allow the engine to cool completely and drain the system again.

5. Repeat this process until the drained water is clear and free of scale.

6. Flush the recovery tank with water and leave empty.

CAUTION

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot;

serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when

draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are

attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left

in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will

prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a

sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is

contaminated or is several years old.

7. Fill and bleed the cooling system as described earlier.

Brake Master Cylinder

The brake master cylinder reservoir is located under the hood, attached to the brake booster and

firewall on the driver's side of the engine compartment.

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

WARNING

Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper

operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest

quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes

contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master

cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid

that is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not

allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will

damage the paint.

When adding fluid to the system, ONLY use fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. DOT 3

brake fluid will absorb moisture when it is exposed to the atmosphere, which will lower its boiling

point. A container that has been opened once, closed and placed on a shelf will allow enough

moisture to enter over time to contaminate the fluid within. If your brake fluid is contaminated with

water, you could boil the brake fluid under hard braking conditions and lose all or some braking

ability. Don't take the risk, buy fresh brake fluid whenever you must add to the system.

LEVEL CHECK

The brake fluid level should not be above the MAX line on the side of the reservoir

Wipe the master cylinder reservoir clean before ...

... removing the reservoir cap

Pour brake fluid from a sealed container directly into the reservoir

CAUTION

Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact

with the eyes and wash your hands thoroughly after handling brake

fluid. If you do get brake fluid in your eyes, flush your eyes with

clean, running water for 15 minutes. If eye irritation persists, or if

you have taken brake fluid internally, IMMEDIATELY seek medical

assistance.

Observe the fluid level indicators on the master cylinder; the fluid level should be between the MIN

and MAX lines.

Before removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, make sure the vehicle is resting on level ground

and clean all dirt away from the top of the master cylinder. Unscrew the cap and fill the master

cylinder until the level is between the MIN and MAX lines.

If the level of the brake fluid is less than half the volume of the reservoir, it is advised that you check

the brake system for leaks. Leaks in a hydraulic brake system most commonly occur at the wheel

cylinder and brake line junction points.

Power Steering Pump

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

Ford recommends using Motorcraft Mercon ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) XT-2-QDX or

equivalent Mercon ATF fluid (Dexron Mercon III).

LEVEL CHECK

The power steering pump reservoir is marked with a MIN and MAX line on the side. The

fluid level should be between these marks

Remove the reservoir cap and ...

... pour the proper fluid directly into the reservoir, but make sure you do not overfill the

reservoir

1. Start the engine and let id idle for 2 or 3 minutes.

2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and left several times to help warm the fluid and

force it circulate.

3. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. It should be at the FULL COLD mark.

4. If the level is low, fill the reservoir up to the FULL COLD mark with the appropriate fluid, but do

not overfill the system or problems in the system can occur.

Chassis Greasing

The only component that require greasing is the idler arm—4 X 4 F-150

There are several components in the front end and steering that require periodic lubrication. Typically

these components include the tie rod ends, ball joints, pitman arm, and several other components in

the steering system such as an idler arm or center link that vary by model. Any greaseable item will

be identifiable by a grease or Zerk® fitting on the component.

Some components are permanently lubricated during manufacture and do not need periodic

maintenance. These components can be identified by the lack of a grease fitting.

Inspect each component to be lubricated. Replace components with torn/ruptured seals. Damaged

seals will eventually leak grease or allow contaminates to enter and eventually cause component

failure and/or seizure.

Body Lubrication and Maintenance

LUBRICATION OF HINGES, LATCHES & LOCKS

Periodically it is recommended that the hinges, latches and locks be lubricated with a suitable grease.

A quality white lithium grease is the best choice to lubricate these components. White lithium grease

can be bought in a spray can with a long application tube for reaching into latches, locks, and hinges

to avoid getting the grease all over the place. A good time to accomplish this task is on every oil

change.

VEHICLE WASHING

The vehicle should be washed at regular intervals to remove dirt, dust, insects, and tar and other

possibly damaging stains that can adhere to the paint and may cause damage. Proper exterior

maintenance also helps in the resale value of the vehicle by maintaining its like-new appearance.

It is particularly important to frequently wash the vehicle in the wintertime to prevent

corrosion, when salt has been used on the roads.

There are many precautions and tips on washing, including the following:

When washing the vehicle, do not expose it do direct sunlight.

Use lukewarm water to soften the dirt before you wash with a sponge, and plenty of water, to

avoid scratching.

A detergent can be used to facilitate the softening of dirt and oil.

A water-soluble grease solvent may be used in cases of sticky dirt. However, use a washplace

with a drainage separator.

Dry the vehicle with a clean chamois and remember to clean the drain holes in the doors and

rocker panels.

If equipped with a power radio antenna, it must be dried after washing.

CAUTION

Never clean the bumpers with gasoline or paint thinner, always use

the same agent as used on the painted surfaces of the vehicle.

Tar spots can be removed with tar remover or kerosene after the vehicle has been washed.

A stiff-bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water can be used to clean the wiper blades. Frequent

cleaning improves visibility when using the wipers considerably.

Wash off the dirt from the underside (wheel housings, fenders, etc.).

In areas of high industrial fallout, more frequent washing is recommended.

CAUTION

During high pressure washing the spray nozzle must never be closer

to the vehicle than 13 inches (30 cm). Do not spray into the locks.

When washing or steam cleaning the engine, avoid spraying water or steam directly on the

electrical components or near the distributor or ignition components. After cleaning the engine,

the spark plug wells should be inspected for water and blown dry if necessary.

Special vehicle washing detergent is the best to use. Liquid dishwashing detergent can remove

wax and leave the vehicle's paint unprotected and in addition some liquid detergents contains

abrasives which can scratch the paint.

Bird droppings should be removed from the paintwork as soon as possible, otherwise the finish

may be permanently stained.

WARNING

When the vehicle is driven immediately after being washed, apply the

brakes several times in order to remove any moisture from the

braking surfaces.

WARNING

Engine cleaning agents should not be used when the engine is warm,

a fire risk is present as most engine cleaning agents are highly

flammable.

Automatic vehicle washing is a simple and quick way to clean your vehicle, but it is worth

remembering that it is not as thorough as when you yourself clean the vehicle. Keeping the

underbody clean is vitally important, and some automatic washers do not contain equipment for

washing the underside of the vehicle.

When driving into an automatic was, make sure the following precautions have been taken:

Make sure all windows are up, and no objects that you do not want to get wet are exposed.

In some cases, rotating the side view mirrors in can help to avoid possible damage.

If your vehicle is equipped with a power antenna, lower it. If your vehicle has a solid mounted,

non-power antenna, it is best to remove it, but this is not always practical. Inspect the

surroundings to reduce the risk of possible damage, and check to see if the antenna can be

manually lowered.

WARNING

Most manufacturers do not recommend automatic vehicle washing in

the first six months due to the possibility of insufficient paint curing;

a safe bet is to wait until after six months of ownership (when

purchased new) to use an automatic vehicle wash.

WAXING

Before applying wax, the vehicle must be washed and thoroughly dried.

Waxing a vehicle can help to preserve the appearance of your vehicle. A wide range of polymer-based

vehicle waxes are available today. These waxes are easy to use and produce a long-lasting, high

gloss finish that protects the body and paint against oxidation, road dirt, and fading.

Sometimes, waxing a neglected vehicle, or one that has sustained chemical or natural element

damage (such as acid rain) require more than waxing, and a light-duty compound can be applied. For

severely damaged surfaces, it is best to consult a professional to see what would be required to

repair the damage.

Waxing procedures differ according to manufacturer, type, and ingredients, so it is best to consult the

directions on the wax and/or polish purchased.

INTERIOR CLEANING

Upholstery

Fabric can usually be cleaned with soapy water or a proper detergent. For more difficult spots caused

by oil, ice cream, soda, etc., use a fabric cleaner available at most parts stores. Be sure when

purchasing the cleaner to read the label to ensure it is safe to use on your type of fabric. A safe

method of testing the cleaner is to apply a small amount to an area usually unseen, such as under a

seat, or other areas. Wait a while, perhaps even a day to check the spot for fading, discoloring, etc.,

as some cleaners will only cause these problems after they have dried.

Leather upholstery requires special care, it can be cleaned with a mild soap and a soft cloth. It is

recommended that a special leather cleaner be used to clean but also treat the leather surfaces in

your vehicle. Leather surfaces can age quickly and can crack if not properly taken care of, so it is vital

that the leather surfaces be maintained.

Floor Mats and Carpet

The floor mats and carpet should be vacuumed or brushed regularly. They can be cleaned with a mild

soap and water. Special cleaners are available to clean the carpeted surfaces of your vehicle, but take

care in choosing them, and again it is best to test them in a usually unseen spot.

Dashboard, Console, Door Panels, Etc.

The dashboard, console, door panels, and other plastic, vinyl, or wood surfaces can be cleaned using a

mild soap and water. Caution must be taken to keep water out of electronic accessories and controls

to avoid shorts or ruining the components. Again special cleaners are available to clean these

surfaces, as with other cleaners care must taken in purchasing and using such cleaners.

There are protectants available which can treat the various surfaces in your vehicle giving them a

"shiny new look", however some of these protectants can cause more harm than good in the long

run. The shine that is placed on your dashboard attracts sunlight accelerating the aging, fading and

possibly even cracking the surfaces. These protectants also attract more dust to stick to the surfaces

they treat, increasing the cleaning you must do to maintain the appearance of your vehicle. Personal

discretion is advised here.

Wheel Bearings

REPACKING

Sodium based grease is not compatible with lithium based grease. Read the package labels

and be careful not to mix the two types. If there is any doubt as to the type of grease used,

completely clean the old grease from the bearing and hub before replacing.

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do.

DO the following:

Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.

Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.

Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.

Use clean, dry gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.

Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.

Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.

Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.

Use clean, lint-free rags to wipe the bearings.

Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.

Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.

Do NOT do the following:

Do not work in dirty surroundings.

Do not use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.

Do not work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.

Do not handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.

Do not use gasoline for cleaning. Use a safe solvent.

Do not spin dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.

Do not use cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.

Do not scratch or nick bearing surfaces.

Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.

The front wheel bearings require periodic maintenance. A premium high melting point grease meeting

Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B or equivalent must be used. Long fiber type greases must not be

used. This service is recommended every 90,000 miles (144,000 km) for normal maintenance and

every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) for severe service.

For information on Wheel Bearing removal and installation, refer to Section 8 of this

manual.

1. Remove the wheel bearing.

2. Clean all parts in a non-flammable solvent and let them air dry.

Only use lint-free rags to dry the bearings. Never spin-dry a bearing with compressed air,

as this will damage the rollers.

3. Check for excessive wear and damage. Replace the bearing as necessary.

Packing wheel bearings with grease is best accomplished by using a wheel bearing packer

(available at most automotive parts stores).

4. If a wheel bearing packer is not available, the bearings may be packed by hand.

1. Place a "healthy" glob of grease in the palm of one hand.

2. Force the edge of the bearing into the grease so that the

grease fills the space between the rollers and the bearing

cage.

3. Keep rotating the bearing while continuing to push the

grease through.

4. Continue until the grease is forced out the other side of the

bearing.

5. Place the packed bearing on a clean surface and cover it until it is time for installation.

6. Install the wheel bearing.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Trailer Towing

General Recommendations

Your vehicle was primarily designed to carry passengers and cargo. It is important to remember that

towing a trailer will place additional loads on your vehicles engine, drive train, steering, braking and

other systems. However, if you decide to tow a trailer, using the prior equipment is a must.

Local laws may require specific equipment such as trailer brakes or fender mounted mirrors. Check

your local laws.

Trailer Weight

The weight of the trailer is the most important factor. A good weight-to-horsepower ratio is about

35:1, 35 lbs. of Gross Combined Weight (GCW) for every horsepower your engine develops. Multiply

the engine's rated horsepower by 35 and subtract the weight of the vehicle passengers and luggage.

The number remaining is the approximate ideal maximum weight you should tow, although a

numerically higher axle ratio can help compensate for heavier weight.

Hitch (Tongue) Weight

Calculate the hitch weight in order to select a proper hitch. The weight of the hitch is usually 9-11% of

the trailer gross weight and should be measured with the trailer loaded. Hitches fall into various

categories: those that mount on the frame and rear bumper, the bolt-on type, or the weld-on

distribution type used for larger trailers. Axle mounted or clamp-on bumper hitches should never be

used.

Calculating proper tongue weight for your trailer

Click to enlarge

Check the gross weight rating of your trailer. Tongue weight is usually figured as 10% of gross trailer

weight. Therefore, a trailer with a maximum gross weight of 2000 lbs. will have a maximum tongue

weight of 200 lbs. Class I trailers fall into this category. Class II trailers are those with a gross weight

rating of 2000-3000 lbs., while Class III trailers fall into the 3500-6000 lbs. category. Class IV trailers

are those over 6000 lbs. and are for use with fifth wheel trucks, only.

When you've determined the hitch that you'll need, follow the manufacturer's installation instructions,

exactly, especially when it comes to fastener torques. The hitch will subjected to a lot of stress and

good hitches come with hardened bolts. Never substitute an inferior bolt for a hardened bolt.

Engine

One of the most common, if not THE most common, problems associated with trailer towing is engine

overheating. If you have a cooling system without an expansion tank, you'll definitely need to get an

aftermarket expansion tank kit, preferably one with at least a 2 quart capacity. These kits are easily

installed on the radiator's overflow hose, and come with a pressure cap designed for expansion tanks.

Aftermarket engine oil coolers are helpful for prolonging engine oil life and reducing overall engine

temperatures. Both of these factors increase engine life. While not absolutely necessary in towing

Class I and some Class II trailers, they are recommended for heavier Class II and all Class III towing.

Engine oil cooler systems usually consist of an adapter, screwed on in place of the oil filter, a remote

filter mounting and a multi-tube, finned heat exchanger, which is mounted in front of the radiator or

air conditioning condenser.

Transmission

An automatic transmission is usually recommended for trailer towing. Modern automatics have proven

reliable and, of course, easy to operate, in trailer towing. The increased load of a trailer, however,

causes an increase in the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid. Heat is the worst enemy of

an automatic transmission. As the temperature of the fluid increases, the life of the fluid decreases.

It is essential, therefore, that you install an automatic transmission cooler. The cooler, which consists

of a multi-tube, finned heat exchanger, is usually installed in front of the radiator or air conditioning

compressor, and hooked in-line with the transmission cooler tank inlet line. Follow the cooler

manufacturer's installation instructions.

Select a cooler of at least adequate capacity, based upon the combined gross weights of the vehicle

and trailer.

Cooler manufacturers recommend that you use an aftermarket cooler in addition to, and not instead

of, the present cooling tank in your radiator. If you do want to use it in place of the radiator cooling

tank, get a cooler at least two sizes larger than normally necessary.

A transmission cooler can, sometimes, cause slow or harsh shifting in the transmission

during cold weather, until the fluid has a chance to come up to normal operating

temperature. Some coolers can be purchased with or retrofitted with a temperature bypass

valve which will allow fluid flow through the cooler only when the fluid has reached above

a certain operating temperature.

Handling a Trailer

Towing a trailer with ease and safety requires a certain amount of experience. It's a good idea to learn

the feel of a trailer by practicing turning, stopping and backing in an open area such as an empty

parking lot.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Jump Starting a Dead Battery

Introduction

Whenever a vehicle is jump started, precautions must be followed in order to prevent the possibility of

personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is

a by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always be avoided when working around batteries,

especially when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the possibility of accidental sparks, follow the

procedure carefully.

Connect the jumper cables to the batteries and engine in the order shown

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

NEVER hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire electrical

system will go up in smoke, including the starter!

Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are

connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive terminal, negative terminal to negative

terminal). Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases battery cranking power without

increasing total battery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On the other hand, hooking two

12 volt batteries up in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal, positive terminal to

negative terminal) increases total battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts).

Jump Starting Precautions

Be sure that both batteries are of the same voltage. Vehicles covered by this manual and most

vehicles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging system.

Be sure that both batteries are of the same polarity (have the same terminal, in most cases

NEGATIVE grounded).

Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a short could occur.

On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap holes are not obstructed.

Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near the batteries.

In cold weather, make sure the battery electrolyte is not frozen. This can occur more readily in a

battery that has been in a state of discharge.

Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or clothing.

Jump Starting Procedure

1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries are the same. Most batteries and charging systems

are of the 12 volt variety.

2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good battery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach

the dead battery and that vehicle's engine. Make sure that the vehicles do NOT touch.

3. Place the transmissions/transaxles of both vehicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then

firmly set their parking brakes.

If necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be operated

throughout the entire procedure without significantly increasing the difficulty of jumping

the dead battery.

4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both

vehicles are turned to the OFF position.

5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do not cover the terminals.

6. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical

connection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the battery terminals before proceeding.

7. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both batteries.

8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the

other end of that cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster (good) battery.

9. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal on the booster battery and

the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head, alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on

the engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on the engine that is positioned away from

the battery in order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps touching should one loosen

during the procedure. DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) terminal of the bad battery.

CAUTION

Be very careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts

(cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines.

10. Check to make sure that the cables are routed away from any moving parts, then start the donor

vehicle's engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for several minutes to allow the dead battery

a chance to receive some initial charge.

11. With the donor vehicle's engine still running slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the

dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time and let the starter cool for

at least 20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start in 3 tries, it is likely that

something else is also wrong or that the battery needs additional time to charge.

12. Once the vehicle is started, allow it to run at idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is

operating properly.

13. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in

order to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subsequent risk of damage to the vehicles'

electrical systems when the cables are disconnected. This step is especially important to any

vehicle equipped with computer control modules.

14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Start with the negative cable

that is attached to the engine ground, then the negative cable on the donor battery. Disconnect

the positive cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the

formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the positive terminals not

to allow the alligator clips to touch any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Jacking

Introduction

Place a suitable jack under the rear differential and raise the rear of the vehicle up

Place jackstands under the rear axle tubes to support the rear of the vehicle

On 4 X 4 F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator models , the front crossmember is a

good place to jack up the front of the vehicle

Place jackstands under the framerails on ...

... both sides to support the front of the vehicle

Your vehicle was supplied with a jack for emergency road repairs. This jack is fine for changing a flat

tire or other short term procedures not requiring you to go beneath the vehicle. If it is used in an

emergency situation, carefully follow the instructions provided either with the jack or in your owner's

manual. Do not attempt to use the jack on any portions of the vehicle other than specified by the

vehicle manufacturer. Always block the diagonally opposite wheel when using a jack.

A more convenient way of jacking is the use of a garage or floor jack. You may use the floor jack

under the differential as well as the axle tubes in the rear. To raise the front of the vehicle, there are

several options based on model and whether or not it is a 4 X 4 or not. On a 1997-98 F-250HD, F-

350 and Super Duty 4 X 2 you may lift the vehicle by placing the jack under the I-beam on a flat spot

or in the middle of the torsion bar. On 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and Super Duty 4 X 4 you may lift

the vehicle by placing the jack under the front axle. On all F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

models you may places a jack under a bracket welded to the frame on a 4 X 2 model and under a

raised boss located on the lower suspension arm or the front crossmember on a 4 X 4 model. On a

1999-00 Super Duty 4 X 4 you may place the jack under the front axle. On a 1999-00 Super Duty 4

X 2 you may place the jack under the radius arm.

Never place the jack under the radiator, engine or transmission components. Severe and expensive

damage will result when the jack is raised. Additionally, never jack under the floorpan or bodywork;

the metal will deform.

Whenever you plan to work under the vehicle, you must support it on jackstands or ramps. Never use

cinder blocks or stacks of wood to support the vehicle, even if you're only going to be under it for a

few minutes. Never crawl under the vehicle when it is supported only by the tire-changing jack or

other floor jack.

Always position a block of wood or small rubber pad on top of the jack or jackstand to

protect the lifting point's finish when lifting or supporting the vehicle.

Small hydraulic, screw, or scissors jacks are satisfactory for raising the vehicle. Drive-on trestles or

ramps are also a handy and safe way to both raise and support the vehicle. Be careful though, some

ramps may be too steep to drive your vehicle onto without scraping the front bottom panels. Never

support the vehicle on any suspension member (unless specifically instructed to do so by a repair

manual) or by an underbody panel.

Jacking Precautions

The following safety points cannot be overemphasized:

Always block the opposite wheel or wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling off the jack.

When raising the front of the vehicle, firmly apply the parking brake.

When the drive wheels are to remain on the ground, leave the vehicle in gear to help prevent it

from rolling.

Always use jackstands to support the vehicle when you are working underneath. Place the

stands beneath the vehicle's jacking brackets. Before climbing underneath, rock the vehicle a bit

to make sure it is firmly supported.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Specification Charts

Engine and Vehicle Identification

Click to enlarge

General Engine Specifications

Click to enlarge

General Engine Specifications

Click to enlarge

Gasoline Engine Tune-Up Specifications

Click to enlarge

Diesel Engine Tune-Up Specifications

Click to enlarge

1997-00 Scheduled Maintenance Intervals

Click to enlarge

1997-00 Scheduled Maintenance Intervals

Click to enlarge

1997-00 Scheduled Maintenance Intervals

Click to enlarge

Capacities

Click to enlarge

Capacities

Click to enlarge

English To Metric Conversion: Mass(Weight) and Temperature

Click to enlarge

English To Metric Conversion: Length and Torque

Click to enlarge

English to Metric Conversion: Torque

Click to enlarge

English To Metric Conversion: Force

Click to enlarge

English To Metric Conversion: Liquid Capacity

Click to enlarge

English to Metric Conversion Pressure

Click to enlarge

English to Metric Conversion Pressure

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Engine Mechanical

Engine

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the

removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove

the radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this

manual.

It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply

because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful

observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.

Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.

Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before

disconnecting them.

Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from

components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during

installation.

After unbolting the transmission, always make sure it is properly supported.

If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a

qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be

disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.

When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When

removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is

recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be

attached to them.

Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components

are still connected.

After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.

After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using

the procedures outlined in this manual.

4.2L Engine

CAUTION

Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine

has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved

before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire

and/or personal injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Mark the position of the hood on the hinges and remove the hood.

3. Drain the engine cooling system into a suitable container.

4. Have the A/C system discharged by an EPA-certified technician.

5. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

6. Remove the engine cooling fan, shroud and radiator.

7. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

8. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control cables at the throttle body.

9. Disconnect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) hose.

10. Detach the manifold vacuum connection.

11. Detach the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) vacuum connectors, fuel pressure regulator

vacuum connector, IMRC solenoid vacuum connector and vacuum reservoir connector.

12. Detach the EGR valve vacuum connector.

13. Remove the three power steering reservoir retaining bolts and position aside.

14. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the A/C compressor manifold bolt and disconnect, then

position the A/C lines aside.

15. Remove the four power steering pump retaining bolts and position the pump aside.

16. Detach the alternator electrical harness connectors. Remove the positive battery cable nut and

disconnect the battery cable.

17. Detach the electrical harness connectors to the fuel injectors.

18. Tag and disconnect the ignition wires at the spark plugs.

19. Disconnect both heater hoses.

20. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose.

21. Disconnect the EGR Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) transducer hose.

22. Remove the breather tube from the cylinder head cover.

23. Remove the upper intake manifold.

24. Disconnect and plug the fuel supply and return lines and remove the fuel injection supply

manifold.

25. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

26. If equipped, disconnect the block heater cable.

27. Disconnect the exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds and support with wire hung from the

crossmember.

28. Remove the starter motor.

29. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the

clutch assembly.

30. Remove the right-hand and left-hand engine support insulator through-bolts.

31. Lower the vehicle.

32. Install a suitable engine lifting bracket and connect suitable engine lifting equipment to the lifting

brackets.

33. Carefully raise the engine out of the engine compartment and position on a work stand. Remove

To install:

the engine lifting equipment.

34. Install the engine lifting brackets. Support the engine using a suitable floor crane installed to the

lifting equipment and remove the engine from the work stand.

35. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment aligning the engine support insulators.

36. Remove the engine lifting equipment and brackets.

37. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

38. Install the left-hand and right-hand engine support insulator through-bolts and tighten them to 51-

67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm).

39. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch assembly.

40. Install the transmission.

41. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

CAUTION

Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine

has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved

before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire

and/or personal injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Mark the position of the hood on the hinges and remove the hood.

3. Drain the engine cooling system into a suitable container.

4. Have the A/C system discharged by an EPA-certified technician.

5. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

6. Remove the engine cooling fan, shroud and radiator.

7. Remove the accessory drive belt.

8. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

9. Remove the intake manifold assembly.

10. Remove the bulkhead connector cover and detach the bulkhead connector.

11. Remove the three power steering reservoir bracket retaining bolts and move the reservoir aside.

12. Disconnect two DPFE transducer hoses.

13. Disconnect the upper and lower EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube fittings and remove the tube.

14. Slide the heater water hose clamp back and remove the hose.

15. Remove the ignition coil, radio capacitor and Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical harness

connectors.

16. Remove both ignition coils and mounting bracket bolts and remove the coil and bracket

assemblies.

17. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

18. Remove the starter motor.

19. Remove the three lower radiator air deflector screws. Remove the five clips and remove the air

deflector.

20. Detach the A/C compressor electrical harness connector.

21. Remove the A/C manifold-to-compressor bolt and remove the manifold and tube assembly.

22. Remove the three A/C compressor retaining bolts and remove the A/C compressor.

23. Remove the fluid cooler hoses from the block mounted clip.

24. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, remove the inspection cover, torque converter bolts

and transmission-to-engine retaining bolts.

25. On vehicles with manual transmission, remove the transmission and the clutch assembly.

26. Remove the upper and lower power steering pump bolts and move the power steering pump

aside.

27. Disconnect the exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds and support with wire hung from the

crossmember.

28. Remove the right-hand and left-hand engine support insulator (mount) through-bolts.

29. Lower the vehicle.

30. Install a suitable engine lifting bracket and connect suitable engine lifting equipment to the lifting

brackets.

31. Carefully raise the engine out of the engine compartment and place on a work stand. Remove the

engine lifting equipment.

To install:

32. Install the engine lifting brackets. Support the engine using a suitable floor crane installed to the

lifting equipment and remove the engine from the work stand.

33. Carefully lower the engine into the engine compartment. Start the converter pilot into the flywheel

and align the paint marks on the flywheel and torque converter. Be sure the studs on the torque

converter align with the holes in the flywheel.

34. Fully engage the engine to the transmission and lower onto the engine support insulators.

35. Remove the engine lifting equipment and brackets.

36. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

37. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and transmission assemblies.

38. Install the six engine-to-transmission retaining bolts and tighten to 30-44 ft. lbs. (40-60 Nm).

39. Install the engine support insulator through-bolts and tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

40. Install the four torque converter retaining nuts and tighten to 22-25 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

41. Install the transmission housing cover to the cylinder block.

42. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

1. Remove the hood.

2. Drain the cooling system and crankcase.

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4. Remove the air intake hoses, PCV tube and carbon canister hose.

5. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses.

6. Have the A/C system discharged by an EPA-certified technician.

7. Disconnect the refrigerant lines at the compressor. Cap all openings immediately.

8. If so equipped, disconnect the automatic transmission oil cooler lines.

9. Remove the fan shroud and lay it over the fan.

10. Remove the radiator and fan, shroud, fan, spacer, pulley and belt.

11. Remove the alternator pivot and adjusting bolts. Remove the alternator.

12. Detach the oil pressure sending unit lead from the sending unit.

13. Disconnect the fuel tank-to-pump fuel line at the fuel pump and plug the line.

14. Disconnect the chassis fuel line at the fuel rails.

15. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and speed control linkage at the throttle body.

16. Disconnect the automatic transmission kick-down rod and remove the return spring, if so

equipped.

17. Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum hose.

18. Disconnect the throttle bracket from the upper intake manifold and swing it out of the way with

the cables still attached.

19. Disconnect the heater hoses from the water pump and intake manifold or tee.

20. Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire from the sending unit.

21. Remove the upper bell housing-to-engine attaching bolts.

22. Remove the wiring harness from the left rocker arm cover and position the wires out of the way.

23. Disconnect the ground strap from the cylinder block.

24. Disconnect the air conditioning compressor clutch wire.

25. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle and disconnect the starter cable from the starter.

26. Remove the starter.

27. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds.

28. Disconnect the engine mounts from the brackets on the frame.

29. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, remove the converter inspection plate and remove the

torque converter-to-flywheel attaching bolts.

30. Remove the remaining bell housing-to-engine attaching bolts.

31. Lower the vehicle and support the transmission with a jack.

32. Install an engine lifting device.

33. Raise the engine slightly and carefully pull it out of the transmission. Lift the engine out of the

engine compartment.

To install:

34. Remove the engine mount brackets from the frame and attach them to the engine mounts.

Tighten the mount-to-bracket nuts just enough to hold them securely.

35. Lower the engine carefully into the transmission. Be sure that the dowel in the engine block

engage the holes in the bell housing through the rear cover plate. If the engine hangs up after

the transmission input shaft enters the clutch disc (manual transmission only), turn the

crankshaft with the transmission in gear until the input shaft splines mesh with the clutch disc

splines.

36. Install the engine mount nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts to 80 ft. lbs. Tighten the bracket-toframe bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

37. Remove the engine lifting device.

38. Install the lower bell housing-to-engine attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).

39. Remove the transmission support jack.

40. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, install the torque converter-to-flywheel attaching

bolts. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

41. Install the converter inspection plate. Tighten the bolts to 60 inch lbs. (7 Nm).

42. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).

2. Remove the hood.

3. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

4. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

5. If equipped with air conditioning, have the A/C system discharged by an EPA-certified technician.

6. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles, remove the turbocharger. Refer to the procedure

in this section.

7. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly and cover the air intake opening with a clean

rag to keep out the dirt.

8. Remove the engine fan and the fan shroud.

9. Remove the radiator.

10. Remove the alternator.

11. Detach the A/C compressor electrical connector.

12. Disconnect the lines from the A/C compressor.

13. Disconnect the vacuum pump hose from the vacuum pump.

14. Disconnect the power steering pump lines from the power steering pump.

15. Disconnect the A/C lines at the condenser and position the lines aside.

16. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the right cylinder head.

17. Disconnect the radiator hose from the water pump.

18. Detach the MAP sensor vacuum hose from the engine.

19. Detach the driver's side engine compartment components and lay the wiring harness to the side.

20. Remove the jack handle.

21. Remove the engine charge exhaust pipe-to-turbocharger clamp.

22. Disconnect the wiring harness from the starter relay.

23. Raise and support the vehicle.

24. On manual transmission equipped vehicles, remove the transmission.

25. Remove the right and left turbocharger inlet pipe bolts and nuts.

26. Disconnect the engine block heater.

27. Remove the starter.

28. Remove the oil filter.

29. Remove the right and left side engine mount nuts.

30. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles:

1. Remove the transmission housing cover.

2. Remove the four converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts.

3. Remove the four lower transmission attaching bolts.

31. Lower the vehicle.

32. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles:

1. Remove the ground strap bolt at the rear of the engine.

2. Remove the two upper transmission retaining bolts.

33. Support the transmission using a suitable jack.

34. Remove the front lamp harness plastic fasteners and lay the harness aside.

35. Make sure no other component interferes with the engine removal.

36. Attach an engine lifting device and remove the engine from the truck.

To install:

37. Lower the engine into vehicle.

38. Align the converter to the flexplate and the engine dowels to the transmission.

39. Install the engine mount bolts and tighten them to 71-94 ft. lbs. (96-127 Nm).

40. Remove the engine lifting sling.

41. Install the four lower transmission attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).

42. Remove transmission jack.

43. Raise and support the front end.

44. If equipped with an automatic transmission, install the four converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts.

Tighten the nuts to 89 ft. lbs. (121 Nm).

45. Install the flywheel inspection plate. Tighten the bolts to 13-17 ft. lbs. (17-23 Nm).

46. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

Rocker Arm (Valve) Cover

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

The valve cover mounting—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

DRIVER'S SIDE VALVE COVER

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the positive crankcase ventilation valve.

3. Loosen the valve cover retaining bolts and studs.

4. Remove the valve cover.

5. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket.

To install:

6. Install the valve cover onto the cylinder head.

7. Tighten the two bolts and the three stud bolts retaining the valve cover to 6-8 ft. lbs. (8-11 Nm).

8. Install the positive crankcase ventilation valve.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

10. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

PASSENGER SIDE VALVE COVER

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the bolts and position the EGR bracket aside.

3. Remove the crankcase ventilation hose.

4. Loosen the valve cover retaining bolts and studs.

5. Remove the valve cover.

6. Remove and discard the valve cover gasket.

To install:

7. Install a new valve cover gasket.

8. Install the valve cover onto the cylinder head.

9. Tighten the two bolts and the three stud bolts retaining the valve cover to 6-8 ft. lbs. (8-11 Nm).

10. Install the crankcase ventilation hose.

11. Install the EGR bracket.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

13. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

DRIVER'S SIDE VALVE COVER

Remove the power steering reservoir retaining bolts and ...

... position the reservoir out of the way

Remove the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube

Loosen the valve cover retaining studs and remove the valve cover from the engine

Driver's side valve cover tightening sequence—4.6L Romeo engine

Click to enlarge

Driver's side valve cover tightening sequence—4.6L Windsor engine

Click to enlarge

Driver's side valve cover tightening sequence—5.4L engine

Click to enlarge

Driver's side valve cover tightening sequence—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine air cleaner and the air cleaner outlet tube.

3. On the 5.4L DOHC engine, remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to the procedure outlined in

this section.

4. Remove the bolts and position the power steering fluid reservoir and bracket aside.

5. Remove the crankcase ventilation tube from the valve cover.

6. Disconnect the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube fittings and the two DPFE hoses and remove

the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube.

7. Detach the fuel injector electrical connections on the driver's side.

8. On 5.4L and 6.8L engines, detach the ignition coil electrical connections on the driver's side.

9. Detach the camshaft position (CMP) sensor connector.

10. Remove the engine sensor control wiring harness from the valve cover studs.

The bolts are part of the valve cover and should not be removed.

11. Loosen the valve cover retaining bolts and remove the valve cover.

12. Inspect the valve cover gasket and clean the mating surface of the cylinder head.

The valve cover gasket can be reused, however if the gasket appears to be cracked, dryrotted, or signs of leakage appeared before the tear-down, replace the gasket.

To install:

If not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area

cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-A or equivalent meeting Ford

specification WSE-M5B392-RA. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four

minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.

13. Apply a bead of silicone in two places where the engine front cover meets the cylinder head. Use

Silicone Gasket and Sealer F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-

M4G323-A6.

14. Position the valve cover and the valve cover gasket on the cylinder head, and loosely install the

bolts.

15. Tighten the valve cover retaining bolts in sequence, referring to the graphics in this section, to

71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

16. Position the engine sensor control wiring harness onto the valve cover studs.

17. Attach the CMP electrical connector.

18. On 5.4L and 6.8L engines, attach the ignition coil electrical connectors.

19. Connect the fuel injector electrical connectors.

20. On the 5.4L DOHC engine, install the upper intake manifold.

21. Connect the EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube upper fitting.

22. Connect the crankcase ventilation tube to the valve cover.

23. Install the power steering fluid reservoir and bracket.

24. Install the engine air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube.

25. Connect the negative battery cable.

26. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

PASSENGER SIDE VALVE COVER

Passenger side valve cover tightening sequence—4.6L Romeo engine

Click to enlarge

Passenger side valve cover tightening sequence—4.6L Windsor engine

Click to enlarge

Passenger side valve cover tightening sequence—5.4L engine

Click to enlarge

Passenger side valve cover tightening sequence—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine air cleaner.

3. On the 5.4L DOHC engine, remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to the procedure outlined in

this section.

4. Remove the bolts and remove the accelerator control splash shield.

5. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the valve cover.

6. Disconnect the two fuse block cable ends from the starter relay.

7. Detach the two 42-pin bulkhead electrical connections and remove them from the junction block

bracket.

8. Detach the 16-pin electrical connection and the single pin electrical connection.

9. Remove the bolts and the junction block bracket.

10. Disconnect the heater water hose.

11. Disconnect the heater water hose.

12. Disconnect the heater water hose from the heater core and remove the heater water hose.

13. Detach the fuel injector electrical connections on the passenger side.

14. On 5.4L and 6.8L engines, detach the ignition coil electrical connections on the passenger side.

15. Detach the climate control vacuum connection.

16. Raise and support the vehicle.

17. Detach the A/C compressor electrical connection.

18. Detach the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connection.

19. Position the wiring harness aside.

20. Lower the vehicle.

The bolts are part of the valve cover and should not be removed.

21. Loosen the valve cover retaining bolts and remove the valve cover.

22. Inspect the valve cover gasket and clean the mating surface of the cylinder head.

CAUTION

Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or

other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause

scratches and gouges which make cause leak paths to develop. Use a

plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant.

The valve cover gasket can be reused, however if the gasket appears to be cracked, dryrotted, or signs of leakage appeared before the tear-down, replace the gasket.

To install:

If not secured within four minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area

cleaned with Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-A or equivalent meeting Ford

specification WSE-M5B392-RA. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or four

minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.

23. Apply a bead of silicone in two places where the engine front cover meets the cylinder head. Use

Silicone Gasket and Sealer F6AZ-19562-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-

M4G323-A6.

24. Position the valve cover and the valve cover gasket on the cylinder head, and loosely install the

bolts.

25. Tighten the valve cover retaining bolts in sequence, referring to the graphics in this section, to

71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

26. Connect the heater water hose to the heater core.

27. Connect the heater water hose and position the clamp.

28. Connect the heater water hose and position the clamp.

29. Install the junction block bracket and the bolts.

30. Attach the 16-pin electrical connection and the single pin electrical connection.

31. Attach the two 42-pin bulkhead electrical connections.

32. Connect the two fuse cable leads to the starter relay.

33. Raise and support the vehicle.

34. Attach the crankshaft position sensor electrical connection.

35. Connect the A/C compressor electrical connection.

36. Lower the vehicle.

37. On the 5.4L DOHC engine, install the upper intake manifold.

38. Install the positive crankcase ventilation valve and crankcase ventilation hose into the valve

cover.

39. Install the accelerator control splash shield.

40. Install the engine air cleaner.

41. Connect the negative battery cable.

42. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

5.8L Engine

Valve cover tightening sequence—5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner and inlet duct.

3. Remove the coil.

4. For the right cover, remove the lifting eye; for the left cover, remove the oil filler pipe attaching

bolt and the lifting eye.

5. Mark and remove the spark plug wires.

6. Remove any vacuum lines, wires or pipes in the way. Make sure that you tag them for

identification.

7. Remove the cover bolts and lift off the cover. It may be necessary to break the cover loose by

rapping on it with a rubber mallet. NEVER pry the cover off!

To install:

8. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of both the cover and head.

9. Place the new gasket(s) in the cover(s) with the locating tabs engaging the slots.

10. Place the cover on the head making sure the gasket is evenly seated. Tighten the bolts in

sequence to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm). After 2 minutes, retighten the bolts to the same

specifications.

11. Install the vacuum lines, wires and pipes.

12. Install the spark plug wires.

13. For the right cover, install the lifting eye; for the left cover, install the oil filler pipe attaching bolt.

14. Install the coil.

15. Install the air cleaner and inlet duct.

16. Connect the negative battery cable.

17. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

7.5L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).

2. Remove the air cleaner and inlet duct.

3. Remove the coil.

4. Mark and remove the spark plug wires.

5. Remove any vacuum lines, wires or pipes in the way. Make sure that you tag them for

identification.

6. Remove the cover bolts and lift off the cover. It may be necessary to break the cover loose by

rapping on it with a rubber mallet. NEVER pry the cover off!

To install:

7. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of both the cover and head.

8. Place the new cover seal(s) in the cover(s) with the locating tab engaging the slot.

9. Place the cover on the head. Tighten the bolts to 6-9 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm) from right to left.

10. Install the vacuum lines, wires and pipes.

11. Install the spark plug wires.

12. Install the coil.

13. Install the air cleaner and inlet duct.

14. Connect the negative battery cable(s).

15. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

7.3L Diesel Engine

PASSENGER SIDE VALVE COVER

1. Disconnect the negative battery cables.

2. Remove the alternator bolt and move the heater hose out of the way.

3. Remove the drive belt.

4. Remove the alternator.

5. Remove the oil level indicator bracket and dipstick.

6. Remove the fuel injector harness clip and disengage the engine harness connectors from the

valve covers.

7. Remove the valve cover bolts and lift off the covers. It may be necessary to break the covers

loose by rapping on them with a rubber mallet. NEVER pry a cover off!

8. Disconnect the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

9. Remove the valve cover gasket.

To install:

10. Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and head thoroughly. Install a new gasket.

11. Connect the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

12. Install the valve cover. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

13. Install the oil tube and dipstick.

14. Install the alternator.

15. Install the drive belt.

16. Position the heater hose as specified and install the alternator bolt. Tighten the bolt to 30-40 ft.

lbs. (40-54 Nm).

17. Connect both negative battery cables.

18. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

DRIVER'S SIDE VALVE COVER

1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.

2. Remove the air inlet duct assembly between the turbocharger and air cleaner.

3. Remove the crankcase breather assembly.

4. Remove the intake duct and retaining nuts.

5. Remove the vacuum pump hose at the pump.

6. Remove the cover bolts and lift off the covers. It may be necessary to break the covers loose by

rapping on them with a rubber mallet. NEVER pry a cover off!

7. Disconnect the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

8. Remove the valve cover gasket.

To install:

9. Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and head thoroughly. Install a new gasket.

10. Connect the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

11. Install the valve cover. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

12. Connect the vacuum pump hose to the pump.

13. Install the intake duct bracket.

14. Install the crankcase breather assembly.

15. Install the intake duct tube assembly.

16. Connect both negative battery cables.

17. Check the oil level and add as necessary.

Rocker Arm/Shafts

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

If removing more than one rocker arm, mark the components for proper location.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the lower intake manifold.

3. Remove the rocker arm cover.

4. Remove the rocker arm hold-down bolt, then remove the rocker arm from the cylinder head.

To install:

5. Position the rocker arms in place, then install the hold-down bolts. Tighten the bolts to 23-29 ft.

lbs. (30-40 Nm).

6. Install the rocker arm cover and the lower intake manifold.

7. Connect the negative battery cable.

4.6L and 5.4L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the camshaft covers.

3. Position the cylinder being serviced at the bottom of it's travel.

Two different valve spring compressor tools are used for this procedure. Valve Spring

Compressor (T91P-6565-A) is used on the exhaust camshaft and Valve Spring Compressor

(T93P-6565-A) is used on the intake camshaft.

4. Compress the valve spring using the appropriate spring compressor and remove the rocker arm.

To install:

5. Position the cylinder being serviced at the bottom of it's travel.

6. Apply clean engine oil to the rocker arm, valve stem tip and tappet bore.

Valve tappet should have no more than 1 /

16

inch (1.5mm) of travel before installing the

rocker arm.

7. Compress the valve spring using the correct tool and install the rocker arm.

8. Install the valve covers.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

Using the proper tool, compress the valve spring and remove the rocker arm—4.6L and

5.4L engine

Click to enlarge

5.8L Engine

5.8L engine rocker arm assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the upper intake manifold. Refer to the procedure in this section.

2. Remove the rocker arm covers.

3. Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum bolts, fulcrum seats and rocker arms; keep all parts in order for

installation.

To install:

4. Apply multipurpose grease to the valve stem tips, the fulcrum seats and sockets.

5. Install the fulcrum guides, rocker arms, seats and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 18-25 ft. lbs. (25-34

Nm).

6. Install the rocker arm covers.

7. Install the intake manifold. Refer to the procedure in this section.

6.8L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the valve covers.

3. Position the base circle of the camshaft lobe on the rocker arm to be serviced. Also, be sure the

piston is not at the top of it's travel near the valve.

4. Compress the valve spring using Valve Spring Compressor 303-381(TJ91P-6565-A) and remove

the rocker arm.

To install:

5. Position the base circle of the camshaft lobe over the place where the rocker arm is to be

installed.

6. Apply clean engine oil to the rocker arm, valve stem tip and tappet bore.

7. Compress the valve using the special tool and install the rocker arm.

8. Install the valve covers.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

7.5L Engine

Compress the valve spring and remove the rocker arm—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

7.5L engine rocker arm assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the intake manifold.

2. Remove the rocker arm covers.

3. Loosen the rocker arm fulcrum bolts, fulcrum, oil deflector, seat and rocker arms; keep

everything in order for installation.

To install:

4. Coat each end of each pushrod with multipurpose grease.

5. Coat the top of the valve stems, the rocker arms and the fulcrum seats with multipurpose grease.

6. Rotate the crankshaft by hand until No. 1 piston is at TDC of compression. The firing order marks

on the damper will be aligned at TDC with the timing pointer.

7. Install the rocker arms, seats, deflectors and bolts on the following valves:

No. 1 intake and exhaust

No. 3 intake

No. 8 exhaust

No. 7 intake

No. 5 exhaust

No. 8 intake

No. 4 exhaust

8. Engage the rocker arms with the pushrods and tighten the rocker arm fulcrum bolts to 18-25 ft.

lbs. (25-34 Nm).

9. Rotate the crankshaft one full turn—360 degrees—and realign the TDC mark and pointer. Install

the parts and tighten the bolts on the following valves:

No. 2 intake and exhaust

No. 4 intake

No. 3 exhaust

No. 5 intake

No. 6 intake and exhaust

No. 7 exhaust

10. Install the rocker arm covers.

11. Install the intake manifold.

12. Check the valve clearance as outlined in Section 1 .

7.3L Diesel Engine

Exploded view of the rocker arm assembly—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the ground cables from both batteries.

2. Remove the valve covers.

3. Remove the valve rocker arm mounting bolts.

4. Remove the rocker arms assembly in order and mark them with tape so they can be installed in

their original positions.

5. Remove the pushrods. Make a holder for the pushrods out of a piece of wood or cardboard and

remove the pushrods in order. It is very important that the pushrods be reinstalled in their

original order. The pushrods can remain in position if no further disassembly is required.

WARNING

Be careful when removing the rocker arm retaining clip. Do not lose

the steel ball.

6. Remove the rocker arm retaining clip.

7. Remove the rocker arm and steel ball from the rocker arm pedestal.

To install:

8. Assemble the rocker arms as follows:

1. Place the steel ball in the rocker arm cup and lubricate with

clean engine oil.

2. Place the rocker arm pedestal on the steel ball.

3. Snap the retaining clip over the pedestal groove.

9. If the pushrods were removed, install them in their original locations. be sure they are fully

seated in the tappet seats.

The copper colored end of the pushrod goes toward the rocker arm.

10. Apply a polyethylene grease to the valve stem tips. Install the rocker arms and posts in their

original positions.

11. Turn the engine over by hand until the valve timing mark is at the 11:00 o'clock position, as

viewed from the front of the engine. Install all of the rocker arm post attaching bolts and tighten

to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

12. Install new valve cover gaskets and install the valve cover.

13. Install the battery cables.

14. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Thermostat

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Thermostat mounting—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Allow the engine to cool, then drain the engine cooling system to a level below the water outlet

housing.

3. Remove 2 water outlet housing retaining bolts and slide the housing with the hose attached to

one side.

4. Remove the thermostat and gasket.

To install:

5. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.

6. Install the thermostat with the bridge (opposite end of the spring) inside the elbow connection.

Ensure that the notch is properly positioned.

7. Coat a new housing gasket with water resistant sealer and position it on the water outlet

connection. Ensure that the notch is properly positioned.

8. Place the water outlet connection on the lower intake manifold and install 2 retaining bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 103 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

9. Fill the engine cooling system.

10. Connect the negative battery cable.

11. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature while checking for coolant

leaks.

12. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

13. Check the coolant level and adjust if necessary.

4.6L, 5.4L And 6.8L Engines

Remove the power steering reservoir retaining bolts and ...

... remove the bracket from the engine

Remove the thermostat housing bolts and ...

... remove the housing from the intake manifold

The thermostat sits in the intake manifold, grasp the top of the thermostat and ...

... remove the thermostat from the intake manifold

thoroughly clean the thermostat mounting surface before installing a new thermostat

Always replace the thermostat O-ring with a new one

Make sure that the air valve is positioned in the 3 O'clock position after the thermostat is

installed

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

3. Remove the power steering reservoir support bracket.

4. Remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.

5. Remove 2 thermostat housing retaining bolts and remove the housing.

6. Remove the thermostat and O-ring from the lower intake manifold. Discard the O-ring.

To install:

7. Clean the O-ring sealing surfaces.

8. Install a new O-ring, on the thermostat and position the thermostat in the lower intake manifold.

9. Place the thermostat housing on the lower intake manifold and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten

the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

10. Install the power steering reservoir support bracket.

11. Fill the engine cooling system.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

13. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature while checking for coolant

leaks.

14. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

15. Check the coolant level and add if necessary.

5.8L And 7.5L Engines

Thermostat installation for the 5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the engine cooling system below the level of the thermostat housing.

3. Disconnect the bypass hose at the thermostat housing and the intake manifold. Remove the

bypass hose.

4. Remove the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.

5. Remove 2 thermostat housing retaining bolts.

6. Remove the thermostat housing from the intake manifold.

7. Remove the thermostat and gasket.

8. Clean the thermostat housing and intake manifold gasket sealing surfaces.

To install:

9. Coat a new thermostat housing gasket with a suitable sealing compound and place the gasket on

the intake manifold. The gasket must be in place before the thermostat is installed.

10. Install the thermostat to the intake manifold opening with the copper pellet or opening towards

the engine and the thermostat flange positioned in the recess.

11. Place the thermostat housing in position and install 2 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 12-18 ft.

lbs. (16-24 Nm) on the 5.8L engine, and 22-38 ft. lbs. (32-37 Nm) for the 7.5L engine.

12. Install the bypass and upper radiator hoses.

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

15. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature while checking for leaks.

16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

17. Check the coolant level and add if needed.

7.3L Diesel Engine

Thermostat mounting—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

The factory specified thermostat does not contain an internal bypass.

On these engines, an internal bypass is located in the block. The use

of any replacement thermostat other than that meeting the

manufacturer's specifications will result in engine overheating. Use

only thermostats meeting the specifications of Ford or Navistar

International.

1. Disconnect both battery ground cables.

2. Drain the coolant to a point below the thermostat housing.

3. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

4. Remove the thermostat housing attaching bolts.

5. Remove the thermostat and gasket.

6. Clean the thermostat housing and block surfaces thoroughly.

To install:

7. Coat a new gasket with sealer and position the gasket on the manifold outlet opening.

8. Install the thermostat in the manifold opening with the spring downward and the flange

positioned in the recess in the manifold.

9. Place the outlet housing into position and install the bolts. Torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

10. Install the upper radiator hose onto the thermostat housing and tighten the hose clamp.

11. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

12. Connect both battery cables.

13. Run the engine and check for leaks.

Intake Manifold

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may

occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven

10 miles (16 km) or more to relearn the strategy.

4.2L Engine

1. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

2. Detach the following ignition coil electrical connections:

1. Ignition coil electrical connector.

2. Radio ignition interference capacitor electrical connector.

3. Label, then detach the six spark plug wires.

4. Remove the accelerator control splash shield.

5. Disconnect the accelerator cable end, if equipped, the speed control actuator cable end.

6. Remove the accelerator cable and actuator cable aside, after removing the hold-down bolts.

7. Disconnect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) hose.

8. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose.

9. Disengage the manifold vacuum connection.

10. Remove the PCV valve from the rocker arm cover.

11. Position the Engine Vacuum Regulator (EVR) bracket aside.

12. Detach the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.

13. Remove the breather from the rocker arm cover.

14. Remove the 12 upper intake manifold retaining bolts, then lift the manifold off of the engine.

Discard the intake manifold upper gasket.

15. Detach the six fuel injector electrical connectors.

16. Detach the engine coolant temperature sensor and the water temperature indicator sending unit

electrical connectors.

17. Disconnect the EGR valve vacuum hose.

18. Remove the EGR valve tube upper fitting.

19. Remove the radiator hose from the lower intake manifold.

20. Position the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) actuator brackets aside.

21. Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.

22. Disconnect the fuel lines.

23. Disconnect the water pump bypass hose.

Remove the lower intake manifold with the fuel injection supply manifold and fuel injectors

as one unit.

24. Remove the six long bolts and the eight short bolts, then lift the lower intake manifold off of the

engine.

25. Remove and discard the lower intake manifold sealing components.

To install:

26. Clean all components of dirt, grease and old gasket material.

27. Install the lower intake manifold front and rear end seals as follows:

1. Apply a bead of sealant (Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-

19562-A or equivalent) to the intake manifold front and rear

end seal mounting points.

2. Install the lower intake manifold front and rear end seals.

28. Install new lower intake manifold gaskets onto the cylinder heads.

The lower intake manifold must be installed within 15 minutes of applying sealant.

Make certain to install the long bolts (A) and the short bolts (B) in the correct lower

intake manifold holes—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the lower manifold bolts in the sequence shown—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the upper intake manifold mounting bolts in the sequence shown—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

29. Apply a bead of the same sealant to the end of the lower intake manifold end seals, where they

stop on the cylinder head surface. Position the intake manifold onto the engine block and

cylinder heads.

30. Install the lower intake manifold mounting bolts in the correct positions. Refer to the illustration

for the correct placement of the long (A) and the short (B) mounting bolts.

Be sure to tighten the intake manifold bolts in two steps.

31. Tighten the lower intake manifold mounting bolts in the sequence shown, first to 44 inch lbs. (5

Nm), then to 71-101 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

32. Connect the water bypass hose.

33. Attach the fuel lines.

34. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.

35. Install the IMRC actuators. Tighten the bolts on the brackets to 71-102 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

36. Install the upper radiator hose to the lower intake manifold.

37. Connect the EGR valve vacuum hose.

38. Install the EGR tube upper fitting to 25-34 ft. lbs. (37-47 Nm).

39. Attach the engine coolant temperature sensor and water temperature indicator sending unit

electrical connectors.

40. Install the six fuel injector electrical connectors.

41. Install a new intake manifold upper gasket.

Be sure to tighten the upper intake manifold bolts in the sequence shown.

42. Position the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold, then tighten the upper intake

manifold bolts in the sequence shown to 59 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Tighten the upper intake manifold

bolts to 6-8 ft. lbs. (8-12 Nm) in the sequence shown.

43. Install the breather into the rocker arm cover.

44. Attach the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve electrical connectors.

45. Install the Engine Vacuum Regulator (EVR) bracket.

46. Attach the manifold vacuum connection.

47. Install the PCV valve.

48. Connect the brake booster vacuum hose.

49. Connect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) hose.

50. Install the accelerator and speed actuator cables.

51. Install the accelerator control splash shield.

52. Install the spark plug wires.

53. Attach the ignition coil and the radio ignition interference capacitor electrical connectors.

54. Install the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines, Except 5.4L Lightning and 5.4L DOHC

Remove the accelerator cable bracket retaining bolt and remove the bracket

Disconnect the PCV hose from the nipple on the back of the intake manifold

Disconnect the fuel feed and return line quick connect fittings

Disconnect the heater hose to facilitate intake manifold removal

After the bolts are removed and all necessary components are disconnected, lift the

intake manifold from the engine

Remove the throttle body adapter retaining bolts and ...

... remove the assembly from the intake manifold

Remove the eight upper manifold-to-lower manifold retaining bolts and ...

... separate the upper intake manifold from the lower manifold

Remove the intake manifold gaskets from the cylinder head

Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the intake manifold

Install new gaskets on the cylinder heads aligning the retaining nipple with the holes in

the cylinder head

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.

3. Drain the cooling system.

4. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the intake manifold.

5. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

6. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the bracket and the throttle body cam.

7. If equipped, remove the speed control actuator cable from the throttle body.

8. Disconnect all vacuum hoses, fuel lines and electrical wires from the throttle body and intake

manifold.

9. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose bracket.

10. Remove the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube.

11. Detach the fuel injector electrical connectors.

12. On the 6.8L engine, remove the radio interference capacitors from the left side of the intake

manifold.

13. Label, then remove the spark plug wires, if necessary.

14. Remove the accessory drive belt.

15. Remove the alternator.

16. Remove the power steering oil reservoir bracket and set aside.

17. Disconnect the heater water hose from the intake manifold.

18. Remove the intake manifold bolts.

19. Lift the intake manifold off of the engine, then detach the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve (IMTV)

electrical connector. Remove and discard the upper intake manifold gaskets.

20. Remove the upper-to-lower intake manifold bolts, then separate the upper intake manifold from

the lower intake manifold. Discard the old gasket.

To install:

21. Position the lower intake manifold gasket and the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake

manifold, then loosely install the upper-to-lower intake manifold bolts.

Be sure to tighten the lower-to-upper manifold bolts in two steps.

22. Tighten the eight lower-to-upper intake manifold bolts in two steps following the tightening

sequence shown. The first step should be to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm) and the second step to 6-8 ft.

lbs. (8-12 Nm).

Tighten the lower-to-upper intake manifold bolts in two steps following the sequence

shown—4.6L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the upper intake manifold-to-cylinder head mounting bolts in the sequence

shown—4.6L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the lower-to-upper intake manifold bolts in two steps following the sequence

shown—5.4L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the upper intake manifold-to-cylinder head mounting bolts in the sequence

shown—5.4L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the upper-to-lower intake manifold bolts in the sequence shown—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the upper intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts using the sequence shown—

6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

23. Position the two upper intake manifold gaskets on the cylinder heads. Set the upper intake

manifold in place on the engine, then loosely install the nine intake manifold-to-cylinder head

bolts.

24. Attach the IMTV electrical connector.

Check that the thermostat housing is in the correct position before the thermostat housing

is installed.

25. Install the thermostat housing and start the two housing bolts.

Make certain to tighten the intake manifold in two steps.

26. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts in the sequence shown, first to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm), then to

15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

27. Install the heater water hose.

28. Position the power steering bracket and install the power steering pump bracket bolts to 71-107

inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

29. Attach all electrical connections, fuel lines, vacuum tubes and coolant hoses to the intake

manifold, fuel injectors and throttle body assembly.

30. Install the alternator and the accessory drive belt.

31. Install the spark plug wires.

32. Install the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. The tube fittings should be tightened to 26-33 ft.

lbs. (35-45 Nm).

33. Install the speed actuator cable, if equipped, and the accelerator cable to the throttle body.

34. Install the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

35. Install the heater water hose.

36. Fill the cooling system with the correct amount and type of coolant.

37. Connect the negative battery cable.

38. Start the engine and check for fuel, vacuum or coolant leaks.

5.4L DOHC Engine

UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD

Remove the three bolts and the engine appearance cover

Click to enlarge

Remove the balance tube from the engine and ...

Click to enlarge

... discard and replace the balance tube gaskets

Click to enlarge

Remove the upper intake manifold retaining bolts and remove the manifold from the

engine

Click to enlarge

Upper intake manifold tightening sequence—5.4L DOHC engine

Click to enlarge

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.

2. Remove the three bolts and the engine appearance cover.

3. Disconnect the accelerator cable, speed control cable, and the return spring.

4. Remove the bolts and position the cables and bracket out of the way.

5. Disconnect the evaporative emission return line.

6. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation tube from the upper intake manifold.

7. Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover.

8. Disconnect the PCV valve tube from the water heated fitting and remove the tube assembly.

9. Disconnect the coolant lines and plug the lines.

10. Detach the electrical connector from the communication valve.

11. Remove the bolts and the communication valve.

12. Remove the wiring harness shield bolts and five clips and remove the shield.

13. Remove the balance tube from the engine.

14. Detach the throttle position (TP) sensor and the idle air control (IAC) motor.

15. Disconnect the vacuum lines and detach the electrical connector from the EGR vacuum regulator

(EVR).

16. Detach the two hoses and detach the electrical connector from the differential pressure feedback

EGR.

17. Remove the bolts from the power steering reservoir bracket and position it aside.

18. Remove the stud and position the oil fill tube aside.

19. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum line.

20. Disconnect the vacuum line from the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve.

21. Remove the bolts from the EGR adapter.

22. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the upper intake manifold.

To install:

23. Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

24. Install the upper intake manifold:

25. Install the bolts.

26. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) and then an additional 90 degrees in the sequence

shown.

27. Install the EGR adapter with a new gasket.

28. Connect the vacuum line to the EGR valve.

29. Connect the brake booster vacuum line.

30. Position the oil fill tube and install the stud.

31. Position the power steering reservoir bracket and install the bolts.

32. Tighten the EGR valve at the exhaust manifold.

33. Attach the two hoses and the electrical connector to the differential pressure feedback EGR.

34. Attach the vacuum lines and the electrical connector to the EVR.

35. Connect the IAC valve and the TP sensor.

36. Install the balance tube on the engine.

37. Install the communication valve and the bolts.

38. Install the wiring harness shield, the bolts and five clips.

39. Attach the electrical connector to the communication valve.

40. Install the tube assembly and connect the PCV valve tube to the water heated fitting.

41. Connect the coolant hoses.

42. Install the PCV valve in the valve cover.

43. Connect the EVAP return line.

44. Position the cables and bracket and install the bolts.

45. Connect the accelerator cable, speed control cable, and the return spring.

46. Install the engine appearance cover and the three bolts.

47. Install the engine air cleaner and outlet tube

LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD

Remove the lower intake manifold retaining bolts and remove the intake manifold from

the engine

Click to enlarge

Lower intake manifold tightening sequence—5.4L DOHC engine

Click to enlarge

1. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

2. Remove the upper intake manifold.

3. Disconnect the fuel lines.

4. Disconnect the engine water bypass hose.

5. Detach the electrical connector from the water temperature indicator sender.

6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, the heater water inlet hose and the heated Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) water fitting inlet hose.

7. Remove the four bolts and the upper generator support bracket.

8. Disconnect the eight fuel injectors.

9. Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel injector pressure regulator and position out of the way.

10. Remove the bolts and the lower intake manifold.

11. Remove the bolts and the radio ignition interference capacitors.

To install:

12. Remove and inspect the gaskets, install new gaskets if necessary.

13. Clean the sealing surfaces.

14. Install the radio ignition interference capacitors.

Bolts should be hand-started, positions 7-12 first then 1-6.

15. Install the lower intake manifold:

16. Position the gaskets.

17. Install the intake manifold and the retaining bolts.

18. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) and then an additional 90 degrees in the sequence

shown.

19. Connect the water temperature indicator sensor.

20. Position the vacuum harness and connect the vacuum line to the fuel injector pressure regulator.

21. Connect the eight fuel injectors.

22. Install the upper generator support bracket and the four bolts.

23. Connect the heater water inlet hose, the upper radiator hose and the water heated fitting inlet

hose.

24. Connect the engine water bypass return hose.

25. Connect the fuel lines.

26. Install the upper intake manifold.

27. Fill the cooling system.

5.4L Lightning

Remove the retaining bolts for the intake manifold and remove the manifold from the

engine

Click to enlarge

Make sure that the PCV system hose is securely connected

Click to enlarge

Intake manifold retaining bolt tightening sequence—5.4L Lightning

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the charge air cooler.

2. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

3. Disconnect the fuel lines.

4. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

5. Remove the accelerator cable bracket retaining bolts and remove the bracket.

6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

CAUTION

Do not disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose

system from the intake. Installation cannot be carried out without the

intake in place.

7. Disconnect the PCV system.

8. Disconnect the ground strap and both radio ignition interference capacitors.

9. Disconnect the vacuum line.

10. Detach the charge air cooler temperature sensor connector.

11. Disconnect the heater hose.

12. Detach the eight fuel injector electrical connectors.

13. Disconnect the vapor management valve vacuum line.

14. Disconnect the vacuum line near the brake vacuum booster.

15. Remove the fuel injection supply manifold.

16. Detach the eight ignition coil connectors.

17. Remove the eight ignition coils.

18. Release the tension from the accessory drive belt.

19. Remove the generator bracket.

20. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the intake manifold.

21. Remove the gaskets.

CAUTION

Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or

other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause

scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping

tool to clean the sealing surfaces.

22. Clean the sealing surfaces.

To install:

23. Position the gaskets.

WARNING

If the PCV system hose becomes disconnected, the intake manifold

will have to be removed to reattach the hose.

24. Make sure that the PCV system hose is securely connected.

25. Install the intake manifold.

26. Position the manifold.

27. Position the thermostat outlet.

28. Install the intake manifold bolts. Tighten the bolts in two stages in the sequence shown.

1. Stage 1: tighten to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).

2. Stage 2: tighten to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

29. Install the generator bracket.

30. Install the accessory drive belt.

31. Install the eight ignition coils.

32. Attach the eight ignition coil connectors.

33. Position the fuel injection supply manifold and install the bolts.

34. Connect the vacuum line near the brake vacuum booster.

35. Connect the vapor management valve vacuum line.

36. Connect the fuel injector electrical connectors.

37. Connect the heater hose.

38. Attach the charge air cooler temperature sensor.

39. Connect the vacuum line.

40. Connect the ground strap and both radio ignition interference capacitors.

41. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system.

42. Connect the upper radiator hose.

43. Position the accelerator cable bracket and tighten the bolts.

44. Connect the fuel lines.

45. Install the charge air cooler.

46. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting fuel

system lines.

UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD

Upper intake manifold and throttle body for the 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the air cleaner.

3. Disengage the electrical connectors at the air bypass valve, throttle position sensor and EGR

position sensor.

4. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle ball and the AOD transmission linkage from the

throttle body. Remove the bolts that secure the bracket to the intake and position the bracket

and cables out of the way.

5. Disengage the upper manifold vacuum fitting connections by removing all the vacuum lines at

the vacuum tree (label lines for position identification). Remove the vacuum lines to the EGR

valve and fuel pressure regulator.

6. Disengage the PCV system by disconnecting the hose from the fitting at the rear of the upper

manifold.

7. Remove the two canister purge lines from the fittings at the throttle body.

8. Disconnect the EGR tube from the EGR valve by loosening the flange nut.

9. Remove the bolt from the upper intake support bracket to upper manifold.

10. Remove the upper manifold retaining bolts and remove the upper intake manifold and throttle

body as an assembly.

11. Clean and inspect all mounting surfaces of the upper and lower intake manifolds.

To install:

12. Position a new mounting gasket on the lower intake manifold.

13. Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly.

14. Install the upper manifold retaining bolts and install the bolt at the upper intake support bracket.

Mounting bolts are tightened to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-25 Nm).

15. Connect the EGR tube at the EGR valve.

16. Install the two canister purge lines at the fittings at the throttle body.

17. Connect the PCV system hose at the fitting at the rear of the upper manifold.

18. Connect the upper manifold vacuum lines at the vacuum tree. Install the vacuum lines at the EGR

valve and fuel pressure regulator.

19. Install the throttle bracket on the intake manifold. Attach the throttle linkage at the throttle ball

and the transmission linkage at the throttle body.

20. Attach the electrical connectors at the air bypass valve, throttle position sensor and EGR

position sensor.

21. Install the air cleaner.

LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD

Lower intake manifold assembly for the 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence— 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

7.5L engine lower intake manifold gasket installation

Click to enlarge

Lower intake manifold bolt tightening sequence— 7.5L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Upper manifold and throttle body must be removed first.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the distributor assembly, cap and wires.

4. Disengage the electrical connectors at the engine, coolant temperature sensor and sending unit,

at the air charge temperature sensor and at the knock sensor.

5. Disconnect the injector wiring harness from the main harness assembly.

6. Remove the ground wire from the intake manifold stud. The ground wire must be installed at the

same position it was removed from.

7. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the fuel rails.

8. Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Remove the bypass hose. Remove

the heater outlet hose at the intake manifold.

9. Remove the air cleaner mounting bracket.

10. Remove the intake manifold mounting bolts and studs. Pay attention to the location of the bolts

and studs for reinstallation.

11. Remove the lower intake manifold assembly.

To install:

12. Clean and inspect the mounting surfaces of the heads and manifold.

13. Apply a

1

/

16

in. (1.5mm) bead of RTV sealer to the ends of the manifold seal (the junction point of

the seals and gaskets).

14. Install the end seals and intake gaskets on the cylinder heads. The gaskets must interlock with

the seal tabs.

15. Install locator bolts at opposite ends of each head and carefully lower the intake manifold into

position.

16. Install and tighten the mounting bolts and studs in sequence to 23-25 ft. lbs. (31-34 Nm).

17. Install the air cleaner mounting bracket.

18. Install the heater outlet hose at the intake manifold.

19. Install the bypass hose.

20. Install the upper radiator hose.

21. Connect the fuel supply and return lines at the fuel rails.

22. Connect the injector wiring harness from the main harness assembly.

23. Install the ground wire onto the intake manifold stud.

24. Attach the electrical connectors at the engine, coolant temperature sensor and sending unit, at

the air charge temperature sensor and at the knock sensor.

25. Install the distributor assembly, cap and wires.

26. Fill the cooling system.

7.3L Diesel Engine

The intake manifold on the 7.3L DIT engine is integral to the cylinder heads. Refer to cylinder head

removal and installation in this section.

Exhaust Manifold

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Tighten the driver's side exhaust manifold bolts in the order shown—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the passenger side exhaust manifold bolts in the order shown—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. For the right-hand manifold, remove the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube.

3. For the left-hand manifold, remove the oil level indicator tube bracket nut, then remove the oil

level indicator tube. Remove and discard the oil level indicator tube O-ring.

4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.

5. Detach the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.

6. Remove the two catalytic converter-to-exhaust manifold nuts, then disconnect the Y-pipe from

the left-hand exhaust manifold.

7. Remove the exhaust manifold stud bolts, then remove the manifold mounting bolts.

8. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove and discard the exhaust manifold gasket.

To install:

9. Position the new exhaust manifold gasket onto the engine, then install the exhaust manifold.

10. Tighten the bolts and stud bolts in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

11. Connect the Y-pipe to the exhaust manifold, then install and tighten the catalytic converter nuts

to 25-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm).

12. Attach the oxygen sensor connector, then lower the vehicle.

13. For the left-hand exhaust manifold, install a new oil level indicator tube O-ring onto the tube.

Insert the tube into the engine block and tighten the bracket retaining nut to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30

Nm).

14. For the right-hand exhaust manifold, Install the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten the

upper and lower fittings to 25-34 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).

15. Connect the negative battery cable.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

Remove the catalytic converter-to-exhaust manifold flange bolts

Remove the oil dipstick tube from the engine

Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts/studs and ...

... remove the manifold from the cylinder head

Remove the exhaust manifold gaskets and ...

... thoroughly clean the cylinder head and exhaust manifold gasket mating surfaces

Tighten the driver's side exhaust manifold bolts in the order shown—4.6L and 5.4L

engines

Click to enlarge

Tighten the passenger side exhaust manifold bolts in the order shown—4.6L and 5.4L

engines

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the front fender splash shield.

3. For the left-hand exhaust manifold, remove the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube and

disconnect the Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust (DPFE) gas recirculation transducer

hoses.

4. Remove the oil dipstick from the engine.

5. On the 4.6L and 5.4L engines, remove the catalytic converter-to-exhaust manifold bolts. On the

6.8L engine, remove the front exhaust pipe from the manifold.

6. Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold itself.

7. Remove and discard the old gasket.

8. Clean and inspect the exhaust manifold for damage.

To install:

9. Position a new gasket and the exhaust manifold onto the engine block.

10. Install the mounting nuts and tighten, in the sequence shown, to 13-16 ft. lbs. (18-22 Nm) on the

4.6L and 5.4L engines. Tighten the nuts to 17-20 ft. lbs. (23-27 Nm) on the 6.8L engine.

11. On the 6.8L engine, tighten the exhaust manifold-to-front pipe fasteners to 27-34 ft. lbs. (34-46

Nm).

12. On the 4.6L and 5.4L engines, attach the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold, then install

the catalytic converter-to-exhaust manifold bolts and tighten to 25-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm).

13. Install the oil dipstick tube.

14. For the left-hand exhaust manifold, install the DPFE transducer hoses if equipped, and the EGR

valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten the upper and lower fittings to 26-33 ft. lbs. (35-45 Nm).

15. Install the front fender splash shield.

16. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts in the sequence shown—right side of 6.8L engine

shown

Click to enlarge

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

5.8L and 7.5L engine exhaust manifold mounting

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

2. Disconnect the exhaust pipe or catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold. Remove and

discard the doughnut gasket.

3. Lower the vehicle.

4. Disconnect any necessary emission components to access the exhaust manifolds.

5. Remove the exhaust manifold attaching screws and remove the manifold from the cylinder head.

To install:

6. Apply a light coat of graphite grease to the mating surface of the manifold. Install and tighten the

attaching bolts, starting from the center and working to both ends alternately. Tighten to 25-35 ft.

lbs. (34-47 Nm).

7. Connect any necessary emission components removed to access the exhaust manifolds.

8. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

9. Install the exhaust pipe or catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold using a new doughnut

gasket. Tighten the retaining bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).

10. Lower the vehicle.

7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Disconnect the ground cables from both batteries.

2. If removing the passenger side manifold and the vehicle is equipped with an automatic, remove

the transmission fill tube bracket bolt and rotate the bracket to the side.

3. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.

4. Disconnect the turbocharger inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold retaining bolts.

5. Remove the manifold retaining bolts and remove the manifold.

To install:

6. Before installing, clean all mounting surfaces on the cylinder heads and the manifold. Apply an

anti-seize compound on the manifold bolt threads and install the manifold, using a new gasket

and new locking tabs.

7. Tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

8. Install the turbocharger inlet pipe onto the exhaust manifold and tighten the retaining bolts to 28

ft. lbs. (38 Nm).

9. Lower the vehicle.

10. On the passenger side manifold, install the transmission fill tube bracket if equipped.

11. Connect the negative battery cables.

Turbocharger

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

7.3L Diesel Engine

Turbocharger components—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Turbocharger and induction system components—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the two air intake tube assembly bolts, clamps at the turbocharger, crankcase breather

assembly, engine air cleaner and air intake tube and hoses.

3. Remove the exhaust outlet clamp from the turbocharger.

4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

5. Remove the engine charge exhaust pipe bolt from the transmission, if so equipped.

6. Remove the bolts and nuts from the catalytic converter-to-engine charge exhaust pipe, if so

equipped.

7. Loosen two bolts retaining the turbocharger exhaust inlet pipe to the left exhaust manifold.

8. For automatic transmissions, remove the bolts retaining the left turbocharger exhaust inlet pipe

to the turbocharger exhaust inlet adapter.

9. Loosen the two bolts retaining the turbocharger exhaust inlet pipe to the right exhaust manifold.

10. Remove the lower bolt retaining the right turbocharger exhaust inlet pipe to the turbocharger

exhaust inlet adapter.

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. For automatic transmissions, remove the upper bolts retaining the right and left turbocharger

exhaust inlet pipes to the turbocharger exhaust inlet adapter.

13. Remove the right engine lift hook and bolt.

14. Loosen the air inlet hose clamp at the turbocharger. Disconnect the hose and lay aside.

15. For automatic transmissions, loosen the four intake manifold hose clamps, and one clamp

retaining the compressor manifold to the turbocharger. Remove the compressor manifold.

16. Remove the four bolts retaining the turbocharger pedestal assembly to the cylinder block.

17. Remove the turbocharger assembly and detach all electrical connectors from it.

If the turbocharger is not being removed for service, install the Fuel/Oil turbo Protector

Cap Set T94T-9395-AH or equivalent.

18. Remove the oil gallery O-rings.

After loosening the clamps, the compressor manifold can be removed—diesel engines

Click to enlarge

To install:

19. Install new oil gallery O-rings.

20. Attach the turbocharger electrical connectors and install the turbocharger assembly.

21. Install the four bolts retaining the turbocharger pedestal assembly to the engine block. Tighten

the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

22. Loosely install the four bolts retaining the right and left turbocharger exhaust inlet pipes to the

turbocharger exhaust inlet adapter.

23. Install the compressor manifold, intake manifold hoses and clamps. Be sure the compressor

outlet seal is in position.

24. Install the right engine lift hook and bolt.

25. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.

26. Tighten the two right and left lower bolts (retaining the turbocharger exhaust inlet pipes to the

turbocharger exhaust inlet adapter) to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).

27. Tighten the four right and left bolts and nuts (retaining the turbocharger exhaust inlet pipes to the

exhaust manifolds) to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).

28. Install the catalytic converter to the engine charge exhaust pipe bolts and nuts.

29. Lower the vehicle.

30. Tighten the two right and left upper bolts (retaining the turbocharger exhaust inlet pipes to the

turbocharger exhaust inlet adapter) to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).

31. Install the exhaust outlet clamp to the turbocharger.

32. Install the air intake tube and hose assembly.

33. Connect the negative battery cable.

Radiator

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the retaining clips for the radiator support brace trim cover and ...

... remove the trim panel from the vehicle

Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator retaining bolts

Place the special fan removal tools over the water pump pulley bolts and onto the fan

clutch hub and loosen the fan clutch assembly

Remove the fan clutch from the water pump and ...

... remove the fan clutch and the shroud assembly from the vehicle

Slide the hoes clamps back and ...

... remove the upper and ...

... the lower hoses from the radiator

Remove the recovery tank hose from the radiator

Using a back-up wrench to support the radiator fitting, loosen the transmission cooler

lines from the radiator and ...

... plug the lines to prevent contamination from entering the transmission

The radiator is retained by two upper support mounts

Remove the radiator upper support mount bolts and ...

... remove the support mount brackets from the radiator

Remove the radiator by lifting it straight out of the engine compartment

All gasoline-engine equipped trucks use a cross-flow radiator. In this type, the coolant flows

horizontally from a radiator inlet tank to a radiator outlet tank.

The 7.3L diesel engine is equipped with an aluminum downflow radiator.

1. Drain the cooling system.

CAUTION

When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are

attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze and are quite likely to drink

any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the

ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the

coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it

is contaminated or several years old.

2. If applicable, use a suitable prytool (see photo) to remove the push-in fasteners that retain the air

intake duct, then remove the duct from its mounting on the radiator support.

3. On 1999-00 Super Duty trucks, remove the expansion tank from the top of the radiator.

4. Remove the radiator support brace trim cover.

5. Remove the fan and fan shroud from the vehicle.

6. Disconnect the upper and lower hoses from the radiator.

7. Disconnect the recovery tank hose from the radiator.

8. On automatic transmission equipped trucks only, disconnect the transmission cooling lines from

the bottom of the radiator and plug the lines.

9. Remove the radiator retaining bolts or the upper supports and lift the radiator from the vehicle.

To install:

10. Lower the radiator into the vehicle.

11. Install the radiator retaining bolts or the upper supports.

12. Connect the transmission cooling lines at the bottom of the radiator.

13. Connect the upper and lower hoses at the radiator.

14. Connect the recovery tank hose to the radiator.

15. Install the fan and shroud.

16. If applicable, install the air intake duct.

17. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Engine Fan

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L And 6.8L Engines

Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator retaining bolts

Place the special fan removal tools over the water pump pulley bolts and onto the fan

clutch hub and loosen the fan clutch assembly

Remove the fan clutch from the water pump and ...

... remove the fan clutch and the shroud assembly from the vehicle

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

3. Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator retaining bolts

WARNING

The large nut on the fan clutch has a left-hand thread and must be

removed by turning the nut clockwise.

4. Remove the fan clutch using Fan Clutch Holding Tool T84T-6312-C and Fan Clutch Wrench T93T-

6312-B, or equivalents.

5. Lift the fan and the shroud assembly from the engine compartment.

6. If the fan or clutch are to be replaced, remove 4 retaining bolts and separate the fan from the

clutch assembly.

To install:

7. Assemble the fan and clutch, if separated. Install 4 retaining bolts and tighten to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-

20 Nm).

8. Place the fan assembly and shroud in place at the same time and thread the fan clutch nut onto

the water pump shaft. Tighten the fan clutch nut using Fan Clutch Holding Tool T84T-6312-C and

Fan Clutch Wrench T93T-6312-B, or equivalents to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).

WARNING

The large nut on the fan clutch has a left-hand thread and must be

tightened by turning the nut counterclockwise.

9. Install the fan shroud and tighten the shroud retaining bolts.

10. Install the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

11. Connect the negative battery cable.

12. Start the engine and check for proper operation.

5.8L And 7.5L Engines

Fan assembly—5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

The large nut on the fan clutch has a right-hand thread and must be

removed by turning the nut counterclockwise.

1. Remove the clutch by turning the large nut on the back of the clutch assembly. (The nut is part of

the clutch assembly). Use fan clutch holding tool T84T-6312-C and fan clutch wrench T93T-6312-

B or equivalents.

2. Remove the 2 fan shroud retaining screws.

3. Remove the fan and clutch along with the shroud.

4. If the fan and clutch need to be separated, remove the 4 retaining bolts.

To install:

5. Assemble the fan and clutch. Tighten to bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm).

6. Position the fan assembly and shroud in place. Tighten the fan clutch nut to the water pump shaft

with fan clutch holding tool T84T-6312-C and fan clutch wrench T93T-6312-B or equivalents.

CAUTION

The large nut on the fan clutch has a right-hand thread and must be

tightened by turning the nut clockwise.

7. Tighten the 2 fan shroud retaining screws.

7.3L Diesel Engine

Fan assembly—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

3. Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator retaining bolts

WARNING

The large nut on the fan clutch has a right-hand thread and must be

removed by turning the nut counter-clockwise.

4. Remove the fan clutch using Fan Clutch Holding Tool T94T-6312-AH and Fan Clutch Wrench

T93T-6312-B, or equivalents.

5. Lift the fan and the shroud assembly from the engine compartment.

6. If the fan or clutch are to be replaced, remove 4 retaining bolts and separate the fan from the

clutch assembly.

To install:

7. Assemble the fan and clutch, if separated. Install 4 retaining bolts and tighten to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-

24 Nm).

8. Place the fan assembly and shroud in place at the same time and thread the fan clutch nut onto

the water pump shaft. Tighten the fan clutch nut using Fan Clutch Holding Tool T94T-6312-AH

and Fan Clutch Wrench T93T-6312-B, or equivalents to 84-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).

WARNING

The large nut on the fan clutch has a left-hand thread and must be

tightened by turning the nut counterclockwise.

9. Install the fan shroud and tighten the shroud retaining bolts.

10. Install the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

11. Connect the negative battery cable.

12. Start the engine and check for proper operation.

Water Pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L And 6.8L Engines

Remove the fan shroud-to-radiator retaining bolts

Place the special fan removal tools over the water pump pulley bolts and onto the fan

clutch hub and loosen the fan clutch assembly

Remove the fan clutch from the water pump and ...

... remove the fan clutch and the shroud assembly from the vehicle

Remove the four water pump retaining bolts and ...

... remove the water pump from the engine

Remove the water pump O-ring using a pick or other suitable tool

Always replace the water pump O-ring with a quality replacement such as a Fel-Pro®

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the engine cooling system.

3. Remove the engine cooling fan and fan shroud.

4. Release the belt tensioner and remove the accessory drive belt.

5. Remove 4 bolts retaining the water pump pulley to the water pump and remove the pulley.

6. Remove 4 bolts retaining the water pump to the cylinder block and remove the water pump.

To install:

7. Clean the sealing surfaces of the water pump and cylinder block.

8. Lubricate a new O-ring seal with clean antifreeze and install on the water pump.

9. Install the water pump and 4 retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30

Nm).

10. Install the water pump pulley and 4 retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-

30 Nm).

11. Release the belt tensioner and install the accessory drive belt.

12. Install the engine cooling fan and fan shroud.

13. Fill the engine cooling system.

14. Connect the negative battery cable.

15. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature while checking for coolant

leaks.

16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

5.8L And 7.5L Engines

1. Drain the cooling system.

2. Remove the engine fan and fan shroud.

3. Disconnect the lower radiator hose, heater hose and by-pass hose at the water pump.

4. Remove the water pump pulley.

5. Loosen the alternator pivot bolt and the bolt attaching the alternator adjusting arm to the water

pump. Remove the power steering pump, and air conditioning compressor bracket from the

water pump and position it out of the way.

6. Remove the bolts securing the water pump to the timing chain cover and remove the water pump.

To install:

7. Coat a new gasket with sealer and install the water pump. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

8. Install the power steering pump bracket.

9. Connect the lower radiator hose, heater hose and by-pass hose at the water pump.

10. Install the water pump pulley, fan, fan shroud and drive belt.

11. Fill the cooling system.

7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Disconnect both battery ground cables.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator shroud and the fan clutch and fan.

The fan clutch bolts are right-hand thread. Remove them by turning counter-clockwise.

4. Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts.

5. Remove the drive belt.

6. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley from the pump.

7. Detach the ECT sensor connector.

8. Remove the heater hose from the water pump.

9. Remove the bolts attaching the water pump to the front cover and lift off the pump.

To install:

10. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the pump and front cover.

11. Using a new gasket, position the water pump over the dowel pins and into place on the front

cover.

12. Install the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

13. Connect the heater hose to the pump.

14. Attach the ECT sensor connector.

15. Install the water pump pulley and start the water pump pulley bolts.

16. Install the drive belt.

17. Install and tighten the pulley retaining bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm).

18. Install the fan and fan shroud assembly.

19. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

20. Connect the battery ground cables.

21. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Water pump mounting—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Apply aviation grade RTV sealant to the bolts indicated—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Cylinder Head

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. The A/C system, should be discharged by a qualified mechanic using an approved refrigerant

recovery/recycling machine.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Drain the cooling system.

4. Remove the upper and lower intake manifolds and related components.

5. Remove the valve covers.

6. Remove the exhaust manifold (s).

7. If removing the left-hand cylinder head, perform the following:

1. Position the power steering pump reservoir aside and

remove the A/C compressor.

2. Remove and support the A/C compressor bracket and

power steering pump aside.

8. If removing the right-hand cylinder head, perform the following:

1. Remove the alternator.

2. Remove the idler pulley.

3. Remove the alternator bracket.

If the cylinder head components, such as rocker arms, valve springs, etc., are to be

reinstalled, they must be installed in the same position. Mark the components for original

location.

9. Remove the six rocker arms by removing the retaining bolts.

10. Pull the pushrods out of the engine. Once again, be sure to label or mark the components

removed for reinstallation in their original location.

11. Remove and discard the eight cylinder head mounting bolts. New bolts are a must for installation.

12. Lift the cylinder head off of the engine block. Remove the cylinder head gasket and discard.

To install:

13. Clean and inspect the cylinder head for flatness.

14. Install a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the small hole to the front of the

engine, then install the cylinder head.

WARNING

Always use new cylinder head bolts for installation.

15. Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Be sure to tighten the cylinder head bolts in three (3) steps.

16. Install the new cylinder head bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown and in

three steps to the following values:

Step 1—14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Step 2—29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

Step 3—36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Cylinder head torque sequence—4.2L engines

Click to enlarge

WARNING

Do not loosen all of the cylinder head bolts at one time. Each cylinder

head bolt must be loosened and the final tightening performed prior

to loosening the next bolt in the sequence.

17. In the same sequence as used previously, loosen the cylinder head bolt three turns, then tighten

the cylinder head bolt to the specific value according to its length. The short bolts (A) should be

tightened to 15-32 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm) and the long bolts (B) to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm). Finally,

tighten each cylinder head bolt, in sequence, an additional 175-185 degrees (C). It would be very

helpful to utilize a degree socket wrench for this last step.

18. Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine oil prior to installation, then install them into their

original positions.

19. Install the rocker arms. Tighten the rocker arm mounting bolts to 23-29 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm).

20. If the valvetrain components were replaced with new components, inspect the valve clearance.

21. If installing the right-hand cylinder head, perform the following:

1. Position the alternator bracket in place, then install the two

long bolts to 31-39 ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm). Install the short bolt

and tighten to 18-22 ft. lbs. (24-31 Nm).

2. Install the idler pulley. Tighten the center retaining bolt to

35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm).

3. Install the alternator.

22. If installing the left-hand cylinder head, complete the following steps:

1. Position the A/C compressor bracket and power steering

pump in place, then start the A/C compressor bracket bolt.

Install the three compressor bracket bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs.

(40-55 Nm). Then, install the two compressor bracket nuts

to 16-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm).

2. Install the A/C compressor.

3. Install the power steering pump reservoir. Tighten the holddown bolts to 80-107 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm).

23. Install the exhaust manifold.

24. Install the two rocker arm covers. Inspect the rocker arm cover gaskets for damage prior to

installation; replace them if necessary.

25. Install the lower intake manifold and related components.

26. Install the upper intake manifold and related components.

27. Fill the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.

28. Change the engine oil.

29. Start the engine and check for any fuel, coolant and vacuum leaks.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

Remove the cylinder head bolts and ...

... carefully lift the cylinder head off of the engine block and place it in a safe location

Remove the head gasket from the engine block

Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and ...

... engine block of any gasket material left

After the gasket material has been removed, wipe the head and ...

... engine block clean using a suitable solvent

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. The A/C system, should be discharged by an EPA certified mechanic utilizing the appropriate

refrigerant recovery/recycling machine.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the valve covers.

4. Remove the intake manifold(s).

5. Remove the timing chains from the engine.

6. Remove the exhaust manifolds.

7. Remove the two heater hose retaining bolts, then compress and slide the hose clamp back to

remove the heater water hose.

8. Remove the cylinder head bolts, then lift the cylinder head from the engine block.

9. Discard the cylinder head gasket and clean the engine block surface.

To install:

WARNING

Cylinder head bolts must be replaced with new ones. They are torqueto-yield designed and cannot be reused.

10. Turn the crankshaft to position the key-way at the 12 o'clock position.

11. Clean and inspect the cylinder head for damage or warpage. Install the cylinder head gasket over

the dowel pins. Then, install the cylinder head onto the engine block. Loosely install NEW

cylinder head bolts.

Be sure to tighten the head bolts in three steps.

12. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown in three steps, as follows:

1. Step 1—27-31 ft. lbs. (37-43 Nm).

2. Step 2—tighten an additional 85-95 degrees.

3. Step 3—tighten another 85-95 degrees.

Tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps using the sequence shown—4.6L and 5.4L

engines

Click to enlarge

Be sure to tighten the cylinder head bolts in three steps using the sequence shown—6.8L

engine

Click to enlarge

13. Install the heater water hose and slide the hose clamp back into position. Install the two heater

water hose bolts.

14. Install the exhaust manifolds.

15. Install the timing chains.

16. Install the intake manifold.

17. Install the valve covers.

18. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for leaks.

19. If the vehicle is equipped with A/C, have the system evacuated and recharged by an EPA certified

mechanic utilizing the appropriate refrigerant recovery/recycling machine.

20. Change the engine oil.

21. Connect the negative battery cable.

5.8L Engine

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the intake manifolds.

4. Remove the valve cover(s).

5. If the right cylinder head is to be removed:

Lift the tensioner and remove the drive belt

Loosen the alternator adjusting arm bolt and remove the alternator mounting bracket bolt and

spacer

Swing the alternator down and out of the way.

6. Remove the air cleaner inlet duct.

7. If the left cylinder head is being removed:

Remove the air conditioning compressor

Remove the oil dipstick and tube

Remove the cruise control bracket

8. Disconnect the exhaust manifold(s) from the muffler inlet pipe(s).

9. Loosen the rocker arm stud nuts so the rocker arms can be rotated to the side. Remove the

pushrods and identify them so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.

10. Remove the cylinder head bolts and lift the cylinder head from the block. Remove the discard the

gasket.

To install:

11. Clean the cylinder head, intake manifold, the valve cover and the head gasket surfaces.

WARNING

A specially treated composition head gasket is used. Do not apply

sealer to a composition gasket.

12. Position the new gasket over the locating dowels on the cylinder block.

13. Position the cylinder head on the block and install the attaching bolts.

14. The cylinder head bolts are tightened in progressive steps. Tighten all the bolts in the proper

sequence to:

Step 1—85 ft. lbs.(115 Nm)

Step 2—95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm)

Step 3—105-112 ft. lbs. (143-152 Nm)

15. Clean the pushrods. Blow out the oil passage in the rods with compressed air. Check the

pushrods for straightness by rolling them on a piece of glass. Never try to straighten a pushrod;

always replace it.

16. Apply Lubriplate® to the ends of the pushrods and install them in their original positions.

17. Apply Lubriplate® to the rocker arms and their fulcrum seats and install the rocker arms. Adjust

the valves.

18. Position a new gasket(s) on the muffler inlet pipe(s) as necessary. Connect the exhaust

manifold(s) at the muffler inlet pipe(s).

19. If the right cylinder head was removed, install the alternator, air cleaner duct, and the drive belt. If

the left cylinder head was removed, install the compressor, the dipstick and cruise control

bracket.

20. Clean the valve rocker arm cover and the cylinder head gasket surfaces. Place the new gaskets in

the covers, making sure the tabs of the gasket engage the notches provided in the cover.

Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system.

21. Install the intake manifold and related parts.

22. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

23. Change the engine oil.

24. Connect the negative battery cable.

Cylinder head bolt torque sequence—5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

7.5L Engine

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the upper and lower intake manifolds..

4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.

5. Remove the drive belts.

6. Loosen the alternator attaching bolts and remove the bolt attaching the alternator bracket to the

right cylinder head.

7. Disconnect the air conditioning compressor from the engine and move it aside, out of the way.

Do not discharge the air conditioning system.

8. Remove the bolts securing the power steering reservoir bracket to the left cylinder head. Position

the reservoir and bracket out of the way. On motor home chassis, remove the oil filler tube.

9. Remove the valve covers.

10. Remove the rocker arm bolts, rocker arms, oil deflectors, fulcrums and pushrods in sequence so

they can be reinstalled in their original positions.

11. Remove the cylinder head bolts and lift the head and exhaust manifold off the engine. If

necessary, pry at the forward corners of the cylinder head against the casting bosses provided

on the cylinder block. Do not damage the gasket mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block

by prying against them.

To install:

12. Remove all gasket material from the cylinder head and block. Clean all gasket material from the

mating surfaces of the intake manifold. If the exhaust manifold was removed, clean the mating

surfaces of the cylinder head and exhaust manifold. Apply a thin coat of graphite grease to the

cylinder head exhaust port areas and install the exhaust manifold.

13. Position the two long cylinder head bolts in the two rear lower bolt holes of the left cylinder head.

Place a long cylinder head bolt in the rear lower bolt hole of the right cylinder head. Use rubber

bands to keep the bolts in position until the cylinder heads are installed on the cylinder block.

14. Position new cylinder head gaskets on the cylinder block dowels. Do not apply sealer to the

gaskets, heads, or block.

15. Place the cylinder heads on the block, guiding the exhaust manifold studs into the exhaust pipe

connections. Install the remaining cylinder head bolts. The longer bolts go in the lower row of

holes.

16. Tighten all the cylinder head attaching bolts in the proper sequence in three stages: 80-90 ft. lbs.

(109-122 Nm), 100-110 ft. lbs. (136-149 Nm), and finally to 130-140 ft. lbs. (176-190 Nm). When this

procedure is used, it is not necessary to retighten the heads after extended use.

17. Be sure the oil holes in the pushrods are open and install the pushrods in their original positions.

Place a dab of Lubriplate® to the ends of the pushrods before installing them.

18. Lubricate and install the valve rockers. Be sure the pushrods remain seated in their lifters.

19. Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds.

20. Install the upper and lower intake manifolds.

21. Install the air conditioning compressor.

22. Install the power steering reservoir.

23. Install the valve covers.

24. Install the alternator and adjust the drive belts.

25. On motor home chassis, install the oil filler tube.

26. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

27. Change the engine oil.

28. Connect the negative battery cable.

29. Start the engine and check for leaks.

7.3L Diesel Engine

RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD

Remove the oil rail drain plug as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Remove the injector using special tools as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Special fuel injector protection sleeve and holding rack—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Install a lifting eye as shown

Click to enlarge

Use a suitable bore brush to clean out the injector bores

Click to enlarge

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Install the injectors using the special tool as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator.

4. Remove the turbocharger assembly.

5. Disconnect the fuel lines by disconnecting them from the rear of both cylinder heads and the fuel

pump.

6. Label and disconnect the wiring from the alternator.

7. Remove the adjusting bolts and pivot bolts from the alternator and the vacuum pump and remove

both units.

8. Remove the alternator and its bracket.

9. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube.

10. Remove the MAP sensor and position it aside.

11. Remove the valve cover

12. Remove the connectors from the injectors and glow plugs.

13. Remove the valve cover gasket.

14. Remove the high pressure oil pump supply line to the right cylinder head.

15. Remove the exhaust back pressure line.

16. Remove the three glow plug relay bracket nuts and the ground wire.

17. Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head.

18. Remove the outer half of the heater distribution box.

19. Remove the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, retaining screws and four oil deflectors.

WARNING

Remove the oil drain plugs prior to removing the injectors or oil could

enter the combustion chamber which could result in hydrostatic lock

and severe engine damage.

20. Remove the oil rail drain plugs.

21. Remove the fuel injectors using Injector Remover No. T94T-9000-AH1, or equivalent. Position the

tool's fulcrum beneath the fuel injector hold-down plate and over the edge of the cylinder head.

Install the remover screw in the threaded hole of the fuel injector plate (see illustration). Tighten

the screw to lift out the injector from its bore. Place the injector in a suitable protective sleeve

such as Rotunda Injector Protective Sleeve, No. 014-00933-2, and set the injector in a suitable

holding rack.

22. Use a suitable vacuum tool, such as Rotunda Vacuum Pump, No. 021-00037, or equivalent to

remove the oil and fuel left over in the injector bores.

23. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER.

24. Remove the four glow plugs.

25. Remove the right turbo exhaust inlet pipe.

26. Remove the ground strap from the rear of the cylinder head.

27. Disconnect the fuel return line at the front of the cylinder head.

28. Remove the four inboard fuel injector shoulder bolts.

29. Remove the cylinder head bolts and attach a Rotunda Cylinder Head Lifting Bracket, 014-00932-2,

or equivalent.

30. Carefully lift the cylinder head out of the engine compartment and remove the head gaskets.

To install:

To prepare a good seat for the fuel injector O-rings, use a suitable injector sleeve brush to

clean any debris from the bore.

31. Carefully clean the cylinder block and head mating surfaces.

32. Position the cylinder head gasket on the engine block and carefully lower the cylinder head in

place.

33. Install the cylinder head bolt and torque in 3 steps using the sequence shown in the illustration.

Lubricate the threads and the mating surfaces of the bolt heads and washers with engine

oil.

34. Connect the fuel return line to the cylinder head.

35. Install the four inboard injector shoulder bolts. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

36. Install the fuel injectors using special tools as follows:

1. Lubricate the injectors with clean engine oil. Using new

copper washers, carefully push the injectors square into

the bore using hand pressure only to seat the O-rings.

2. Position the open end of Injector Replacer, No. T94T-9000-

AH2, or equivalent between the fuel injector body and

injector hold-down plate, while positioning the opposite

end of the tool over the edge of the cylinder head.

3. Align the hole in the tool with the threaded hole in the

cylinder head and install the bolt from the tool kit. Tighten

the bolt to fully seat the injector, then remove the bolt and

tool.

37. Install the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, the four oil deflectors and retaining

screws. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

38. Dip the pushrod ends in clean engine oil and install the pushrods with the copper colored ends

toward the rocker arms, making sure the pushrods are fully seated in the tappet pushrod seats.

39. Install the rocker arms and posts in their original positions. Apply Lubriplate® grease to the valve

stem tips. Turn the engine over by hand until the timing mark is at the 11 o'clock position as

viewed from the front. Install the rocker arm posts, bolts and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Install

the valve covers.

40. Install the fuel rail drain plugs, tightening them to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

41. Install the oil rail drain plugs, tightening them to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).

42. Install the heater distribution box.

43. Install the heater hose to the cylinder head.

44. Install the glow plug relay bracket and ground wire.

45. Install the exhaust back pressure line.

46. Install the oil supply line to the cylinder head, tightening it to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).

47. Install the dipstick tube.

48. Install the MAP sensor and screws.

49. Install the valve cover gasket.

50. Connect the wiring to the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

51. Install the valve cover, tightening the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

52. Connect the injector wiring harness to the valve cover gasket.

53. Install the alternator, tightening the bracket bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

54. Connect the alternator wiring and install the drive belt.

55. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal. Tighten the fuel pump-to-fuel line

banjo bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

56. Connect both negative battery cables.

57. Refill and bleed the cooling system.

58. Run the engine and check for fuel, coolant and exhaust leaks.

LEFT CYLINDER HEAD

Remove the oil rail drain plug as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Remove the injector using special tools as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Special fuel injector protection sleeve and holding rack—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Install a lifting eye as shown

Click to enlarge

Use a suitable bore brush to clean out the injector bores

Click to enlarge

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Install the injectors using the special tool as shown—7.3L DI turbo diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect both negative battery cables.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator.

4. Remove the turbocharger assembly.

5. Remove the two crankcase breather screws and the breather.

6. Disconnect the wiring from the air conditioning compressor.

7. Remove the four left accessory bracket bolts.

8. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the brake vacuum pump.

9. Disconnect the A/C lines from the compressor.

10. Remove the power steering lines from the pump.

11. Remove the left accessory bracket and accessories as an assembly.

12. Remove the valve cover

13. Disconnect the fuel line assembly between the cylinder heads and fuel pump.

14. Remove the fuel line nut from the intake manifold stud.

15. Disconnect the fuel return line from the cylinder head.

16. Remove the high pressure oil pump supply line from the cylinder head.

17. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.

18. Remove the left turbo exhaust pipe from the manifold.

19. Lower the vehicle.

20. Remove the oil rail drain plugs.

21. Remove the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, retaining screws and four oil deflectors.

WARNING

Remove the oil drain plugs prior to removing the injectors or oil could

enter the combustion chamber which could result in hydrostatic lock

and severe engine damage.

22. Remove the oil rail drain plugs.

23. Remove the fuel injectors using Injector Remover No. T94T-9000-AH1, or equivalent. Position the

tool's fulcrum beneath the fuel injector hold-down plate and over the edge of the cylinder head.

Install the remover screw in the threaded hole of the fuel injector plate (see illustration). Tighten

the screw to lift out the injector from its bore. Place the injector in a suitable protective sleeve

such as Rotunda Injector Protective Sleeve, No. 014-00933-2, and set the injector in a suitable

holding rack.

24. Use a suitable vacuum tool, such as Rotunda Vacuum Pump, No. 021-00037, or equivalent to

remove the oil and fuel left over in the injector bores.

25. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, KEEP EVERYTHING IN ORDER.

26. Remove the four glow plugs.

27. Remove the left turbo exhaust inlet pipe.

28. Remove the main engine harness connectors in the left fender well and position the harness

aside.

29. Remove the four inboard fuel injector shoulder bolts.

30. Remove the cylinder head bolts and attach a Rotunda Cylinder Head Lifting Bracket, 014-00932-2,

or equivalent.

31. Carefully lift the cylinder head out of the engine compartment and remove the head gaskets.

To install:

To prepare a good seat for the fuel injector O-rings, use a suitable injector sleeve brush to

clean any debris from the bore.

32. Carefully clean the cylinder block and head mating surfaces.

33. Position the cylinder head gasket on the engine block and carefully lower the cylinder head in

place.

34. Install the cylinder head bolt and torque in 3 steps using the sequence shown in the illustration.

Lubricate the threads and the mating surfaces of the bolt heads and washers with engine

oil.

35. Apply anti-seize paste and install the glow plugs, tightening them to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

36. Install the four outboard fuel injector hold-down bolts, the four oil deflectors and retaining

screws. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

37. Dip the pushrod ends in clean engine oil and install the pushrods with the copper colored ends

toward the rocker arms, making sure the pushrods are fully seated in the tappet pushrod seats.

38. Install the rocker arms and posts in their original positions. Apply Lubriplate® grease to the valve

stem tips. Turn the engine over by hand until the timing mark is at the 11 o'clock position as

viewed from the front. Install the rocker arm posts, bolts and tighten to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm). Install

the valve covers.

39. Install the four inboard injector shoulder bolts. Tighten them to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

40. Install the fuel injectors using special tools as follows:

1. Lubricate the injectors with clean engine oil. Using new

copper washers, carefully push the injectors square into

the bore using hand pressure only to seat the O-rings.

2. Position the open end of Injector Replacer, No. T94T-9000-

AH2, or equivalent between the fuel injector body and

injector hold-down plate, while positioning the opposite

end of the tool over the edge of the cylinder head.

3. Align the hole in the tool with the threaded hole in the

cylinder head and install the bolt from the tool kit. Tighten

the bolt to fully seat the injector, then remove the bolt and

tool.

41. Install the fuel rail drain plugs, tightening them to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

42. Install the oil rail drain plugs, tightening them to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).

43. Install the heater distribution box.

44. Install the valve cover gasket.

45. Connect the wiring to the fuel injectors and glow plugs.

46. Install the valve cover, tightening the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

47. Connect the engine wiring harness.

48. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

49. Loosely install the turbo exhaust pipe to the manifold.

50. Lower the vehicle.

51. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal. Tighten the fuel pump-to-fuel line

banjo bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

52. Connect both negative battery cables.

53. Refill and bleed the cooling system.

54. Run the engine and check for fuel, coolant and exhaust leaks.

Oil Pan

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Remove the three oil pan-to-transmission bolts

Click to enlarge

Remove the 15 oil pan-to-cylinder block mounting bolts, then lower the oil pan

Click to enlarge

Temporarily install two locator dowels in two of the oil pan-to-engine block corner

mounting bolt holes

Click to enlarge

Clean and apply sealant to the rear main bearing cap, the oil pan mating surface, the

front cover mounting area, the front cover-to-engine block joints

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.

2. Remove the oil pan plug and drain the engine oil.

3. If equipped with 4 wheel drive:

1. Remove the two front wheel driveshafts and joints, if so

equipped.

2. Remove the front differential from the vehicle.

3. Remove the front differential support.

4. Remove the three oil pan-to-transmission bolts.

5. Remove the 15 oil pan-to-cylinder block mounting bolts, then lower the oil pan.

To install:

If the oil pan is not installed within 15 minutes, remove the sealer and reapply.

6. Temporarily install two locator dowels in two of the oil pan-to-engine block corner mounting bolt

holes.

7. Clean and apply sealant to the rear main bearing cap, the oil pan mating surface, the front cover

mounting area, the front cover-to-engine block joints, then install the oil pan rear seal. Make

certain to use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F6AZ-19562-A or equivalent for the sealant.

8. Position the oil pan, then install 13 of the oil pan mounting bolts loosely.

9. Remove the two locator dowels and install the remaining two oil pan-to-engine block bolts.

10. Starting from the rear and alternating from the right to left, tighten the 15 oil pan mounting bolts

to 36-44 inch lbs. (4-5 Nm), then retighten the bolts to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm).

11. Install the oil pan-to-transmission bolts to 28-38 ft. lbs. (38-51 Nm).

12. Install the oil pan drain plug to 16-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm).

13. Install the front differential and front differential support.

14. Install the front driveshafts and joints.

15. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

16. Fill the engine with the correct type and amount of engine oil.

4.6L and 5.4L Engines

Tighten the oil pan-to-engine block bolts in three steps following the sequence shown—

4.6L and 5.4L engines

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. On 4 X 4 equipped models, remove the front axle housing from the vehicle.

3. Drain the engine oil.

4. Remove the 16 oil pan-to-engine block bolts.

5. Remove the oil pan and the oil pan gasket.

To install:

6. Clean the oil pan and engine block mating surfaces of oil and old gasket material.

7. Install the new oil pan gasket and the oil pan, then install the 16 oil pan-to-engine block bolts

loosely.

Be sure to tighten the oil pan bolts in three steps.

8. Tighten the oil pan-to-engine bolts in the sequence shown, in the following three steps:

1. Step 1—18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).

2. Step 2—15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

3. Step 3—tighten an additional 60 degrees (one hex head flat

of a bolt).

9. Install the oil drain plug.

10. If removed, install the front axle housing.

11. Lower the vehicle.

12. Fill the engine with the correct amount and type of engine oil.

5.8L Engine

1. Drain the cooling system.

2. Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud to the radiator and position the shroud over the fan.

3. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body.

4. Remove the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis

bracket.

5. If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler line at the left side of the

radiator.

6. Remove the exhaust system.

7. Raise the engine and place wood blocks under the engine supports.

8. Drain the engine oil.

9. Support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the transmission crossmember.

10. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember.

11. Remove the two bolts attaching the oil pump pick-up tube to the oil pump. Remove the nut

attaching the oil pump pick-up tube to the No. 3 main bearing cap stud. Lower the pick-up tube

and screen into the oil pan.

12. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.

Exploded view of the oil pan mounting. apply RTV sealant to the areas marked "A"—5.8L

engine

Click to enlarge

To install:

13. Clean the oil pan, inlet tube and gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for damages

and distortion due to over tightening of the bolts. Repair and straighten as required.

14. Position a new oil pan gasket and seal to the cylinder block.

15. Position the oil pick-up tube and screen to the oil pump, and install the lower attaching bolt and

gasket loosely. Install the nut on the No. 3 main bearing cap stud.

16. Place the oil pan on the crossmember. Install the upper pick-up tube bolt. Tighten the pick-up

tube bolts.

17. Position the oil pan to the cylinder block and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to 10-12 ft. lbs.

(14-16 Nm).

18. Install the transmission crossmember.

19. Raise the engine and remove the blocks under the engine supports. Bolt the engine to the

supports.

20. Install the exhaust system.

21. If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler line at the left side of the

radiator.

22. Install the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.

23. Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body.

24. Install the fan shroud.

25. Fill the engine with the proper type and amount of oil.

26. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

6.8L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.

3. Drain the cooling system.

4. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the intake manifold.

5. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube.

6. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the bracket and the throttle body cam.

7. If equipped, remove the speed control actuator cable from the throttle body.

8. Disconnect all vacuum hoses, fuel lines and electrical wires from the throttle body and intake

manifold.

9. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose bracket.

10. Remove the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube and disconnect the vacuum line.

11. Remove the connector and vacuum line from the Engine Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid.

12. Remove the four bolts and the throttle body adapter.

13. Remove the upper fan shroud mounting screws and position the shroud toward the engine.

14. Remove the generator and install the Modular Engine Support Bracket on the engine using the

generator mounting holes.

15. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

16. Remove the lower engine mount-to-frame nuts.

17. Clean the area around the Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) and Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensors and

remove them from the transmission. Plug the openings.

18. Lower the vehicle to the floor and raise the engine using a hoist attached to the support bracket.

19. Install an engine support fixture with a J hook to keep the engine raised, then remove the hoist.

20. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

21. Drain the engine oil and remove the bypass filter.

22. Remove the dual converter Y-pipe and the flywheel inspection cover.

23. Remove the driveshaft and the two transmission mounting nuts.

24. Raise the transmission assembly with a transmission jack. Be sure to support the transmission

along the rails of the pan to avoid damage.

25. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and partially lower the pan.

26. Remove the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly and allow it to drop into the pan.

27. Remove the oil pan towards the rear of the vehicle.

Oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

To install:

WARNING

To prevent possible oil leaks, use only a plastic scraper to clean the oil

pan mounting surface.

28. Clean the oil pan-to-engine mounting surface.

29. Place the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly in the oil pan, then position the pan and

gasket near the engine.

30. Install the oil pump pick-up tube and screen assembly. Tighten the nut to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm)

and the two bolts to 71-106 in lbs. (8-12 Nm).

31. Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the areas where the front cover and rear bearing cap meet the

engine block.

To prevent leaks, tighten the oil pan bolts in the order shown—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

32. Install the oil pan. Tighten the bolts in sequence using three steps as follows:

Step one—18 inch lbs. (2 Nm)

Step two—15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Step three—tighten an additional 60°

33. Lower the transmission and install the two mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-

108 Nm).

34. Install the driveshaft and the TSS and OSS sensors.

35. Install the flywheel cover and dual converter Y-pipe.

36. Install the oil bypass filter.

37. Lower the vehicle and remove the engine support fixture.

38. Install the engine mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

39. Remove the modular engine support bracket and install the generator.

40. Install the fan shroud.

41. Use a new gasket and install the throttle body adapter. Tighten the bolts in two steps first to 71-

88 in lbs. (8-10 Nm), then tighten them an additional 85-95°.

42. Connect the EVR solenoid harness and vacuum line.

43. Attach the vacuum line to the EGR valve.

44. Install the EGR valve-to-exhaust manifold tube. Tighten the fittings to 55 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).

45. Install the EGR transducer.

46. Install all remaining components in the reverse of the removal.

WARNING

Operating the engine without the proper amount and type of engine

oil will result in severe engine damage.

47. Fill the engine with the proper amount and type of engine oil

48. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

7.5L Engine

Relieve the fuel system pressure before starting any work that involves disconnecting the

fuel lines. Refer to Fuel System .

1. Remove the hood.

2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.

3. Drain the cooling system.

4. Remove the air intake tube and air cleaner assembly.

5. Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle body.

6. Disconnect the power brake vacuum line at the manifold.

7. Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel rail.

8. Disconnect the air tubes at the throttle body.

9. Remove the radiator.

10. Remove the power steering pump and position it out of the way without disconnecting the lines.

11. Remove the oil dipstick tube. On motor home chassis, remove the oil filler tube.

12. Remove the front engine mount through-bolts.

13. Position the air conditioner refrigerant hoses so they are clear of the firewall. If necessary,

discharge the system and remove the compressor.

14. Remove the upper intake manifold and throttle body.

15. Drain the crankcase. Remove the oil filter.

16. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifolds.

17. Disconnect the transmission linkage at the transmission.

18. Remove the driveshaft(s).

19. Remove the transmission fill tube.

20. Raise the engine with a jack placed under the crankshaft damper and a block of wood to act as a

cushion. Raise the engine until the transmission contacts the underside of the floor. Place wood

blocks under the engine supports. The engine must remain centralized at a point at least 4 in.

(102mm) above the mounts, to remove the oil pan!

21. Remove the oil pan attaching screws and lower the oil pan onto the crossmember. Remove the

two bolts attaching the oil pump pick-up tube to the oil pump. Lower the assembly from the oil

pump. Leave it on the bottom of the oil pan. Remove the oil pan and gaskets. Remove the inlet

tube and screen from the oil pan.

To install:

22. Clean the gasket surfaces of the oil pan and cylinder block.

23. Apply a coating of gasket adhesive on the block mating surface and stick the one-piece silicone

gasket on the block.

24. Clean the inlet tube and screen assembly and place on the pump.

25. Position the oil pan against the cylinder block and install the retaining bolts. Tighten all bolts to

10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).

Exploded view of the oil pan mounting—7.5L engine

Click to enlarge

26. Lower the engine and bolt it in place.

27. Install the transmission fill tube.

28. Install the driveshaft(s).

29. Attach the transmission linkage at the transmission.

30. Connect the exhaust pipe at the manifolds.

31. Install the oil filter.

32. Install the upper intake manifold and throttle body.

33. Install the compressor or reposition the hoses.

34. Install the oil dipstick tube. On motor home chassis, install the oil filler tube.

35. Install the power steering pump.

36. Install the radiator.

37. Connect the air tubes at the throttle body.

38. Connect the fuel lines at the fuel rail.

39. Connect the power brake vacuum line at the manifold.

40. Connect the throttle linkage at the throttle body.

41. Install the air intake tube and air cleaner assembly.

42. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

43. Fill the crankcase.

44. Connect the battery ground cable.

45. Install the hood.

7.3L Diesel Engine

Remove the twelve oil pan retaining bolts and remove the oil pan from the engine

Click to enlarge

Apply a 1 /

8

in. (3mm) bead of RTV silicone sealant to the pan mating surfaces, and a

in. (6mm) bead on the front and rear covers and in the corners

1 /

4

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the engine.

2. Remove the oil pan bolts.

3. Lower the oil pan.

The oil pan is sealed to the crankcase with RTV silicone sealant in place of a gasket. It may

be necessary to separate the pan from the crankcase with a utility knife. Also, the

crankshaft may have to be turned to allow the pan to clear the crankshaft throws.

4. Clean the pan and crankcase mating surfaces thoroughly.

To install:

5. Apply a

1

/

8

in. (3mm) bead of RTV silicone sealant to the pan mating surfaces, and a

1

/

4

in. (6mm)

bead on the front and rear covers and in the corners; you have 15 minutes within which to install

the pan!

6. Install the locating dowels into position.

7. Position the pan on the engine and install the pan bolts loosely.

8. Remove the dowels.

9. Tighten the pan bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm) for

1

/

4

in.-20 bolts; 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) for

5

/

16

in.-18 bolts;

24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) for

3

/

8

in.-16 bolts.

10. Install the engine.

Oil Pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.

2. Drain the engine oil and dispose.

3. Remove the oil filter.

4. Remove the six oil pump bolts, then remove the oil pump drive gear, the oil pump driven gear, the

oil pump O-ring and the oil pump itself. Discard the used oil pump O-ring.

5. Inspect the oil pump components for damage or excessive wear.

6. Check the oil pump face for warpage with a flat edge ruler. The face cannot exhibit more than

0.00157 in. (0.04mm) of distortion.

7. Remove the plug over the oil pressure relief; valve.

8. Remove the oil pressure relief valve ball and spring, then clean the parts.

To install:

Lubricate the parts with clean engine oil before assembly.

9. Assemble the oil pressure relief valve ball and spring with a new plug.

Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts to the specifications shown—4.2L engines

Click to enlarge

10. Install the oil pump, along with a new O-ring, the oil pump driven gear and the drive gear. Install

and tighten the six oil pump mounting bolts to the torque value specifications indicated in the

illustration.

11. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the rubber O-ring on the new filter, then install the filter onto

the filter mount.

12. Install the oil pan drain plug.

13. Lower the vehicle.

14. Fill the engine with the correct amount and type of new engine oil.

15. Start the engine and make certain that the oil light on the instrument panel extinguishes within 6-

8 seconds after the engine starts.

4.6L and 5.4L Engines

1. Remove the timing chain.

2. Remove the oil pan.

3. Remove the three oil pump screen and cover bolts, then remove the screen and cover.

4. Remove the oil pump screen and cover spacer.

5. Remove the four oil pump mounting bolts, then remove the oil pump from the engine.

To install:

6. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces.

7. Install the oil pump and loosely install the four oil pump mounting bolts. Tighten the four oil

pump bolts in the sequence shown to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm) in the sequence

shown—4.6L and 5.4L engines

Click to enlarge

8. Install the oil pump screen and cover spacer to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

9. Install the oil pump screen and cover, then install the three oil pump screen and cover bolts.

Tighten the bolts near the oil pick-up screen to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm) and the bolts at the

opposite end of the pick-up to 70-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

10. Install the timing chains, then install the oil pan.

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

1. Remove the oil pan.

2. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly.

3. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the oil pump gasket and intermediate

driveshaft.

To install:

4. Before installing the oil pump, prime it by filling the inlet and outlet port with oil and rotating the

shaft of the pump to distribute it.

5. Position the intermediate driveshaft into the distributor socket.

6. Position the new gasket on the pump body and insert the intermediate driveshaft into the pump

body.

7. Install the pump and intermediate driveshaft as an assembly. Do not force the pump if it does not

seal readily. The driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor shaft. To align it, rotate the

intermediate driveshaft into a new position.

8. Install the oil pump attaching bolts and tighten them to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm) on the 4.9L

engine and to 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 Nm) on the 5.8L and 7.5L engines.

Exploded view of the oil pump mounting—5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

6.8L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine front cover and crankshaft sprocket.

3. Remove the oil pan.

4. Remove the three oil pump mounting bolts, then remove the oil pump from the engine.

To install:

5. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces.

6. Install the oil pump and loosely install the oil pump mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts in the

sequence shown to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

Be sure to tighten the oil pump mounting bolts in the sequence shown—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

7. Install the oil pan.

8. Install the crankshaft sprocket and timing chains.

9. Install the front cover.

7.3L Diesel Engine

The oil pump is mounted on the cylinder block with four bolts—diesel engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the radiator.

3. Remove the drive belt.

4. Remove the crankshaft damper.

5. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts.

6. Remove the oil pump housing and square cut O-ring.

To install:

7. Install the oil pump housing and tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).

8. Install the crankshaft damper.

9. Install the drive belt.

10. Install the radiator.

11. Connect the negative battery cable.

Crankshaft Damper

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Gasoline Engines Except Lightning

Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt and ...

... install a suitable puller onto the damper assembly

Tighten the puller forcing screw until the damper assembly releases from the crankshaft

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the fan shroud and engine fan.

3. Remove the drive belt(s).

4. On the 4.2L, 5.8L and 7.5L engines, the crankshaft pulley is removable from the damper. Remove

the crankshaft pulley retaining bolts.

5. Remove the vibration damper/pulley retaining bolt from the center of the damper/pulley.

6. Using a suitable puller, remove the damper/pulley from the crankshaft.

To install:

7. Align the key slot of the pulley hub to the crankshaft key, then install the damper, tightening the

retaining hardware to the following torque:

On the 4.2L engine tighten to 103-117 ft. lbs. (140-160 Nm)

On the 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L engines tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm), then back off the bolt 90°, tighten

to 35-39 ft. lbs. (47-53 Nm), then tighten an additional 85-95°.

On the 5.8L and 7.5L engines tighten to 70-90 ft. lbs. (95-122 Nm)

8. If the pulley is separate, install the pulley and tighten the pulley retaining bolts to the following

torque:

On the 4.2L engine tighten to 20-28 ft. lbs. (26-38 Nm)

On the 5.8L and 7.5L engines tighten to 40-52 ft. lbs. (54-71 Nm)

9. Install the drive belt.

10. Install the fan and fan shroud.

11. Connect the negative battery cable.

5.4L Lightning

Remove the supercharger pulley and brace assembly

Click to enlarge

Remove the supercharger pulley adapter

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the drive belt.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

4. Remove the nuts and position the under vehicle shield aside.

5. Remove the two nuts and one bolt.

6. Remove the starter motor.

7. Install Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D or equivalent onto the crankshaft pulley.

The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads.

8. Remove the pulley and brace assembly.

9. Remove the supercharger pulley adapter.

10. Remove the bolt.

11. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft pulley.

To install:

The crankshaft pulley must be installed within four minutes after applying the silicone.

12. Apply silicone sealant to the woodruff key slot on the crankshaft pulley.

13. Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley.

14. Install the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt in four stages.

1. Stage 1: tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

2. Stage 2: loosen the bolt.

3. Stage 3: tighten to 34-39 ft. lbs. (47-53 Nm).

4. Stage 4: tighten an additional 85-90 degrees.

15. Install the supercharger pulley adapter.

Coat the threads of the supercharger pulley with High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize

Lubricant F6AZ-9L494-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M12A4-A.

The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads.

16. Install the pulley and brace assembly.

17. Remove the special tool.

18. Install the starter motor.

19. Position the transmission cooler line clip and install the two nuts and one bolt.

20. Position the shield and install the nut.

21. Lower the vehicle.

22. Install the drive belt.

23. Connect the negative battery cable.

7.3L Diesel Engine

Remove the diesel engine vibration damper as illustrated (Ford Special tools shown)

Click to enlarge

Special tools used in the removal of the crankshaft damper wear ring—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Special tools used in the installation of the crankshaft damper wear ring—7.3L diesel

engine

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain the cooling system.

3. Remove the radiator as outlined in this Section.

4. Raise the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands.

5. Remove the flywheel housing cover.

6. Install a suitable flywheel holding tool onto the flywheel.

7. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer.

8. Remove the crankshaft vibration damper using a suitable puller.

9. Remove the crankshaft damper wear ring by assembling Step Plate Adapter D80L-630-A, Damper

Wear Ring Remover T94T-6379-AH1, Bearing Collet Sleeve T77F-7025-C, Remover Tube T77J-

7025-B and Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B, or their equivalents to the crankshaft damper. Tighten

the forcing screw until the damper wear ring is pulled free from the hub (see illustration).

To install:

10. Assemble Driver Handle T80T-4000-W to Damper Wear Ring Replacer T94T-6379-AH2. Insert the

crankshaft damper wear ring into the Damper Wear Ring Replacer T94T-6379-AH2 and position

the tool assembly onto the vibration damper.

11. Use a ball peen hammer to seat the wear ring into the hub. Use Loctite® 271, or equivalent to the

inside diameter of the wear sleeve to prevent oil from travelling through.

12. Install a new crankshaft front seal.

13. Apply RTV sealant to the damper key-way, then drive on the damper using a suitable installation

tool set.

14. Install the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer.

15. tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 212 ft. lbs. (287 Nm).

16. Remove the flywheel holding tool and install the flywheel housing cover.

17. Lower the vehicle.

18. Install the radiator, the fan and clutch and fan shroud assembly.

19. Refill and bleed the cooling system.

20. Connect the negative battery cable.

Front Cover Seal

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Install the seal into the engine using the necessary tools

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the accessory drive belt.

3. Remove the fan blade assembly.

Match mark the crankshaft pulley to damper positioning for installation reference.

4. Remove 4 crankshaft pulley retaining bolts from the crankshaft damper and remove the pulley.

5. Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt and washer and remove the damper with Damper

Remover T58P-6316-D and Adapter T82L-6316-B, or equivalents.

6. Remove the front cover oil seal using special tool T92C-6700-CH or equivalent.

To install:

7. Clean and inspect the front cover seal recess and damper.

8. Apply clean engine oil to the front cover oil seal lip.

9. Install the front cover oil seal using Seal Replacer T94P-6701-AH, Aligner T88T-6701-A (aligner)

and Adapter T82L-6316-B or equivalents.

10. Apply a bead of silicone sealer to the crankshaft key-way. Line up the damper key-way with the

key on the crankshaft and push the damper onto the crankshaft. Install the bolt and washer and

tighten to 103-117 ft. lbs. (140-160 Nm).

11. Install the crankshaft pulley, aligning the match marks made during removal. Install 4 retaining

bolts and tighten to 20-28 ft. lbs. (26-38 Nm).

12. Install the fan blade assembly.

13. Install the accessory drive belt.

14. Connect the negative battery cable.

15. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

16. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines Except 5.4L Lightning

The front crankshaft seal is located in the cover—4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L engines

Remove the seal from the cover using a suitable seal puller by carefully prying on the

seal to ...

... remove the seal from the cover

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine cooling fan and fan shroud.

3. Release the drive belt tensioner and remove the accessory drive belt.

4. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

5. Remove the crankshaft pulley using Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D, or equivalent.

6. Remove the front cover oil seal using a suitable seal remover.

To install:

7. Clean the engine front cover seal bore, then lubricate the seal bore and the seal lip with clean

engine oil.

8. Install the new front cover oil seal using Seal Installer T88T-6701-A, or equivalent. Make sure the

seal is installed evenly and straight.

9. Install the crankshaft pulley using Crankshaft Damper Replacer T74P-6316-B, or equivalent.

10. Apply a suitable silicone sealer to the outer end of the crankshaft damper key-way.

11. Install the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt.

12. Tighten the bolt in 4 steps as follows:

Tighten the bolt to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)

Loosen the bolt 1 full turn

Tighten the bolt to 34-39 ft. lbs. (47-53 Nm)

Rotate the bolt an additional 85-95 degrees

13. Release the drive belt tensioner and install the accessory drive belt.

14. Install the engine cooling fan and shroud assembly.

15. Check the engine oil level.

16. Connect the negative battery cable.

17. Start the engine and check for leaks.

18. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

5.4L Lightning

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the drive belt.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.

4. Remove the nuts and position the under vehicle shield aside.

5. Remove the two nuts and one bolt.

6. Remove the starter motor.

7. Install Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D or equivalent onto the crankshaft pulley.

The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads.

8. Remove the pulley and brace assembly.

9. Remove the supercharger pulley adapter.

10. Remove the bolt.

11. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft pulley.

12. Remove the front cover oil seal using Front Cover Seal Remover T74P-6700-A, or equivalent.

To install:

13. Clean the engine front cover seal bore, then lubricate the seal bore and the seal lip with clean

engine oil.

14. Install the new front cover oil seal using Seal Installer T88T-6701-A, or equivalent. Make sure the

seal is installed evenly and straight.

The crankshaft pulley must be installed within four minutes after applying the silicone.

15. Apply silicone sealant to the woodruff key slot on the crankshaft pulley.

16. Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley.

17. Install the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt in four stages.

1. Stage 1: tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).

2. Stage 2: loosen the bolt.

3. Stage 3: tighten to 34-39 ft. lbs. (47-53 Nm).

4. Stage 4: tighten an additional 85-90 degrees.

18. Install the supercharger pulley adapter.

Coat the threads of the supercharger pulley with High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize

Lubricant F6AZ-9L494-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M12A4-A.

The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads.

19. Install the pulley and brace assembly.

20. Remove the special tool.

21. Install the starter motor.

22. Position the transmission cooler line clip and install the two nuts and one bolt.

23. Position the shield and install the nut.

24. Lower the vehicle.

25. Install the drive belt.

26. Connect the negative battery cable.

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

Installing the oil seal into the 7.5L engine front cover. The tool makes it easier to drive in

the seal evenly

Click to enlarge

Aligning the front cover on the 7.5L engine

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the fan shroud, radiator fan, spacer, pulley and drive belts.

2. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper attaching bolt

and washer and remove the damper with a puller.

3. Remove the front cover seal using special tool T70P-6B070-B or equivalent. Tighten the two long

bolts to force the tool under the seal flange, then tighten the four corner bolts to force the tool

away from the cover.

To install:

4. Apply Lubriplate® or equivalent to the oil seal lip and fit the seal into place. Install special tool

T70P-6B070-A or an equivalent seal installation tool and carefully press the new seal into place.

5. Apply Lubriplate® or equivalent to the crankshaft vibration damper to the to prevent damage to

the seal. Coat the front of the crankshaft with engine oil for damper installation.

6. Line up the damper key-way with the key on the crankshaft and push the damper onto the

crankshaft. Install the bolt and washer and tighten to 80 ft. lbs. Install the crankshaft pulley.

7. Install the fan, spacer, pulley and drive belts.

8. Install the fan shroud to the radiator.

Timing Chain, Sprockets and Front Cover

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the accessory drive belt.

3. Drain the coolant into a suitable clean container.

4. Remove the radiator, fan blade assembly and fan shroud.

5. Remove the water pump.

6. Remove the EGR valve vacuum hose.

7. Remove the EGR tube upper fitting.

8. Remove the EGR valve and adapter assembly.

9. Detach the wiring harness from the heater water outlet tube.

10. Remove the heater water outlet bolt and position the outlet tube aside.

11. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical harness connector and mark the position

of the connector for proper installation.

After removing the CMP drive gear, be sure the timing marks (A) and key-ways (B) are

aligned—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

Compress the tensioner assembly and install a pin into the hole in the tensioner body

Click to enlarge

Turn the balance shaft so that the timing mark (B) on the gear(A) is in alignment

Click to enlarge

After the timing chains are installed, remove the retaining pin from the tensioner

Click to enlarge

12. Rotate the crankshaft until the TDC timing mark lines up with the timing mark.

13. Remove the two bolts retaining the CMP and remove the CMP from the camshaft synchronizer.

14. Remove the camshaft synchronizer adjustment bolt and remove the camshaft synchronizer.

The oil pump drive shaft may come out with the camshaft synchronizer.

15. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

16. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil in a suitable container.

17. Remove the crankshaft pulley and damper using appropriate tools.

18. Remove the engine oil pan.

19. Remove the two engine front cover stud bolts, front cover bolt and cap screw.

20. Slide the engine front cover and gasket off the dowels and discard the gasket.

21. Remove the CMP sensor drive gear bolt and remove the drive gear.

22. Be sure the timing marks and key-ways align.

23. Compress and install a retaining pin to hold the timing chain tensioner.

24. Slide both sprockets and timing chain forward and remove as an assembly.

25. Remove the three bolts retaining the timing chain tensioner and remove the tensioner.

26. Check the timing chain and sprockets for excessive wear. Replace if necessary.

To install:

27. Before installation, clean and inspect all parts. Clean the gasket material from the engine oil pan,

cylinder block and engine front cover.

28. Place the timing chain tensioner in position and install the three retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts

to 6-10 ft. lbs. (8-14 Nm).

29. Verify that the balance shaft timing gears are in correct alignment.

30. Slide both sprockets and the timing chain onto the camshaft and crankshaft with the timing

marks aligned. Install the CMP sensor drive gear and bolt. Tighten the bolt to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50

Nm).

31. Remove the retaining pin.

Install the camshaft synchronizer (A) in the orientation shown (white arrow points to

front of engine)—4.2L engines

Click to enlarge

32. Inspect the engine front cover seal for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

33. Install the engine front cover gasket and front cover onto the guide studs.

34. Install the two engine front cover stud bolts, front cover bolt and cap screw. Tighten the bolts to

15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

35. Install the engine oil pan.

36. Install the crankshaft damper and pulley.

WARNING

A Synchro Positioning Tool must be used prior to installation. Failure

to using this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of

time, possibly causing engine damage.

37. Install Synchro Positioning Tool T89P-12200-A or equivalent, on the camshaft synchronizer by

rotating the tool until it engages the notch in the housing.

38. Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so that the arrow on the tool is 54 degrees

from the centerline of the engine.

39. Install the adjustment bolt and tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (21-30 Nm).

40. Remove the tool and position the CMP sensor. Install the 2 bolts and 40-70 inch lbs. (5-8 Nm) and

install the CMP electrical harness connector.

41. Install the water pump.

42. Install the fan shroud, fan blade assembly and radiator.

43. Install the accessory drive belt.

44. Fill the crankcase with the correct amount and type of engine oil.

45. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

46. Connect the negative battery cable.

47. Start the engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.

48. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

4.6L Engine

Remove the driver's side ignition coil bracket bolts

Remove the passenger side ignition coil bracket bolts along with the belt tensioner

retaining bolts and the idler pulley retaining bolt

Click to enlarge

Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts and position the pump to the side

Remove the four front oil pan-to-timing cover retaining bolts

Once the necessary components are removed, the timing cover bolts are accessible,

remove the bolts and ...

... remove the cover from the engine

Install the camshaft holding tool

Click to enlarge

Remove the crankshaft position sensor trigger wheel from the crankshaft

Remove the timing chain tensioner retaining bolts and ...

... remove the tensioner from the engine

Remove the tensioner arm from the engine

Remove the timing chain from around the camshaft pulley

When removing the timing chains, rotate the crankshaft so that the camshaft key-ways

are positioned as shown—4.6L engines

Click to enlarge

Remove the timing chain guide retaining bolts and remove the guides from the engine

Place the tensioner into a bench vise or other suitable device and retract the plunger

Using a small screwdriver or other suitable tool, push back and hold the ratchet

mechanism

While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner

assembly

After the ratchet mechanism is retracted, place a paper clip or other suitable tool into the

hole in the tensioner body to hold the ratchet arm and plunger during installation

Place the tensioner assembly onto the engine and tighten the retaining bolts

Remove the paper clip from the tensioner assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the radiator, fan blade and fan shroud assembly.

3. Remove the accessory drive belt.

4. Remove the water pump pulley.

5. Detach the electrical harness connectors from both ignition coils.

6. Remove both ignition coils with their brackets attached.

7. Remove the left-hand and right-hand cylinder head covers.

8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

9. Remove the two upper power steering pump retaining bolts.

10. Remove the two lower power steering pump retaining bolts and move the pump aside.

11. Detach the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical harness connector. Remove the retaining

bolt and remove the CKP sensor.

12. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

13. Remove the four oil pan-to-engine front cover retaining bolts.

14. Lower the vehicle.

15. Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt and washer from the crankshaft.

16. Install Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D or equivalent and pull the damper from the

crankshaft.

17. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor retaining bolt and remove the CMP sensor.

18. Remove the idler pulley bolt and remove the pulley.

19. Remove the three belt tensioner retaining bolts and remove the tensioner.

20. Remove the eight engine front cover retaining bolts and the seven nuts. Swing the top of the

cover out off the dowel pins and remove the cover.

21. Remove the sensor ring from the crankshaft.

22. Use Camshaft Positioning Tool T91P-6256-A and Camshaft Positioning Adapters T92P-6256-A or

equivalents, to position the camshaft.

23. Rotate the crankshaft until both camshaft key-ways are 90 degrees from the cam cover surface.

Be sure the copper links line up with the dots on the camshaft sprockets.

WARNING

At no time, when the timing chains are removed and the cylinder

heads are installed may the crankshaft or the camshaft be rotated.

Severe piston and valve damage will occur.

24. Remove the two left-hand and right-hand tensioner bolts and remove the timing chain tensioners.

25. Slide the left-hand and right-hand tensioner guides off the dowel pins.

26. Remove the right-hand timing chain from the camshaft sprocket.

27. Remove the left-hand timing chain from the camshaft sprocket.

28. Remove the left-hand and right-hand timing chain guide bolts and remove the timing chain

guides.

29. If necessary, remove the camshaft gear bolt and remove the camshaft gear.

To install:

When installing the timing chains, make certain that the copper colored links (A) are

aligned with the timing marks—4.6L engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the first five front cover fasteners in the sequence shown—4.6L engine

Click to enlarge

Continue tightening the remaining fasteners in the sequence shown here—4.6L engine

Click to enlarge

30. Examine the timing chains, looking for the copper links. If the copper links are not visible, lay the

chain on a flat surface and pull the chain taught until the opposite sides of the chain contact one

another. Mark the links at each end of the chain and use these marks in place of the copper links.

If the engine jumped time, damage has been done to valves and possibly pistons and/or

connecting rods. Any damage must be corrected before installing the timing chains.

31. If removed, install the camshaft gears and tighten the retaining bolt to 81-95 ft. lbs. (110-130 Nm).

32. Install the left-hand and right-hand timing chain guides and retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining

bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

33. If removed, install the left-hand crankshaft sprocket with the tapered part of the sprocket facing

away from the engine block.

The crankshaft sprockets are identical. They may only be installed one way, with the

tapered part of the sprockets facing each other. Ensure that the key-way and timing marks

on the crankshaft sprockets are aligned.

34. Install the left-hand timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Be sure the copper

links of the timing chain line up with the timing marks on both sprockets.

35. If removed, install the right-hand crankshaft sprocket with the tapered part of the sprocket facing

the left-hand crankshaft sprocket.

36. Install the right-hand timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Be sure the copper

links of the timing chain line up with the timing marks on both sprockets.

37. It is necessary to bleed the timing chain tensioners before installation. Proceed as follows:

1. Place the timing chain tensioner in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Using a small pick or similar tool, hold the ratchet lock

mechanism away from the ratchet stem and slowly

compress the tensioner plunger by rotating the vise

handle.

WARNING

The tensioner must be compressed slowly or damage to the internal

seals will result.

3. Once the tensioner plunger bottoms in the tensioner bore, continue to hold the ratchet lock

mechanism and push down on the ratchet stem until flush with the tensioner face.

4. While holding the ratchet stem flush to the tensioner face, release the ratchet lock mechanism

and install a paper clip or similar tool in the tensioner body to lock the tensioner in the collapsed

position.

5. The paper clip must not be removed until the timing chain, tensioner, tensioner arm and timing

chain guide are completely installed on the engine.

38. Install the left-hand and right-hand timing chain tensioner guides on the dowel pins.

39. Place the left-hand and right-hand timing chain tensioners in position and install the retaining

bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

40. Remove the retaining pins from the timing chain tensioners.

41. Remove Camshaft Positioning Tool T91P-6256-A and Camshaft Positioning Adapters T92P-6256-

A or equivalents. from the camshaft.

42. Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.

43. Apply a bead of silicone sealer along the cylinder head-to-cylinder block and the oil pan-tocylinder block sealing surfaces.

44. Install the engine front cover carefully onto the dowel pins.

45. Tighten the engine front cover bolts, in sequence, to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

46. Place the idler pulley in position and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-

30 Nm).

47. Install the drive belt tensioner and the three retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-

30 Nm).

48. Install the CMP sensor and the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

49. Place the damper on the crankshaft. Ensure the crankshaft key and key-way are aligned.

50. Using Crankshaft Damper Replacer T74P-6316-B or equivalent, install the crankshaft damper.

51. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

52. Install the four oil pan-to-engine front cover bolts and tighten, in sequence, in 2 steps:

1. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

2. Rotate the bolts an additional 60 degrees.

53. Install the CKP sensor and the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Connect

the CKP sensor electrical harness connector.

54. Install the power steering pump and the two upper and two lower retaining bolts. Tighten the

bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

55. Lower the vehicle.

56. Place the ignition coil and brackets on the engine front cover and install the bracket bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

57. Connect the ignition coil and capacitor electrical harness connectors.

58. Connect the CMP electrical harness connector.

59. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

60. Install the radiator, fan blade and fan shroud assembly.

61. Install the accessory drive belt.

62. Connect the negative battery cable.

63. Start the engine and check for leaks.

64. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

5.4L and 6.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the radiator, fan blade and fan shroud assembly.

3. Remove the accessory drive belt.

4. Remove the water pump pulley.

5. Detach the electrical harness connectors from both ignition coils.

6. Remove both ignition coils with their brackets attached.

7. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

8. Remove the two upper power steering pump retaining bolts.

9. Remove the two lower power steering pump retaining bolts and move the pump aside.

10. Detach the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical harness connector. Remove the retaining

bolt and remove the CKP sensor.

Timing chains and related components—5.4L and 6.8L engines

Click to enlarge

11. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container.

12. Remove the four oil pan-to-engine front cover retaining bolts.

13. Lower the vehicle.

14. Remove the crankshaft damper retaining bolt and washer from the crankshaft.

15. Install Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D or equivalent and pull the damper from the

crankshaft.

16. Remove the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor retaining bolt and remove the CMP sensor.

17. Remove the idler pulley bolt and remove the pulley.

18. Remove the three belt tensioner bolts and remove the tensioner.

19. Remove the eight engine front cover retaining bolts and the seven nuts. Swing the top of the

cover out off the dowel pins and remove the cover.

20. Remove the sensor ring from the crankshaft.

21. Use Camshaft Positioning Tool T96T-6256-A or equivalent, to position the camshaft.

22. Rotate the crankshaft until both camshaft key-ways are 90 degrees from the cam cover surface.

Be sure the copper links line up with the dots on the camshaft sprockets.

WARNING

At no time, when the timing chains are removed and the cylinder

heads are installed may the crankshaft or the camshaft be rotated.

Severe piston and valve damage will occur.

23. Install Camshaft Holding Tool T96T-6256-B or equivalent, on the camshaft.

24. Remove 2 left-hand and right-hand tensioner bolts and remove the timing chain tensioners.

25. Slide the left-hand and right-hand tensioner guides off the dowel pins.

26. Remove the right-hand timing chain from the camshaft sprocket.

27. Remove the left-hand timing chain from the camshaft sprocket.

28. Remove the left-hand and right-hand timing chain guide bolts and remove the timing chain

guides.

To install:

29. Examine the timing chains, looking for the copper links. If the copper links are not visible, lay the

chain on a flat surface and pull the chain taught until the opposite sides of the chain contact one

another. Mark the links at each end of the chain and use these marks in place of the copper links.

If the copper links are not visible, mark one link on one end of the chain and two links on

the opposite end of the chain—5.4L and 6.8L engines

Click to enlarge

If the engine jumped time, damage has been done to valves and possibly pistons and/or

connecting rods. Any damage must be corrected before installing the timing chains.

30. Install the left-hand and right-hand timing chain guides and retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining

bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

31. If removed, install the left-hand crankshaft sprocket with the tapered part of the sprocket facing

away from the engine block.

The crankshaft sprockets are identical. They may only be installed one way, with the

tapered part of the sprockets facing each other. Ensure that the key-way and timing marks

on the crankshaft sprockets are aligned.

32. Install the left-hand timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Be sure the one

copper link aligns with the mark on the crankshaft sprocket and the two copper links align with

the mark on the camshaft sprocket.

33. Install the right-hand crankshaft sprocket with the tapered part of the sprocket facing the lefthand crankshaft sprocket.

34. Install the right-hand timing chain on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Be sure the copper

links of the timing chain line up with the timing marks on both sprockets.

35. It is necessary to bleed the timing chain tensioners before installation. Proceed as follows:

1. Place the timing chain tensioner in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Using a small pick or similar tool, hold the ratchet lock

mechanism away from the ratchet stem and slowly

compress the tensioner plunger by rotating the vise

handle.

WARNING

The tensioner must be compressed slowly or damage to the internal

seals will result.

3. Once the tensioner plunger bottoms in the tensioner bore, continue to hold the ratchet lock

mechanism and push down on the ratchet stem until flush with the tensioner face.

4. While holding the ratchet stem flush to the tensioner face, release the ratchet lock mechanism

and install a paper clip or similar tool in the tensioner body to lock the tensioner in the collapsed

position.

5. The paper clip must not be removed until the timing chain, tensioner, tensioner arm and timing

chain guide are completely installed on the engine.

36. Install the left-hand and right-hand timing chain tensioner guides on the dowel pins.

37. Place the left-hand and right-hand timing chain tensioners in position and install the retaining

bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

38. Remove the retaining pins from the timing chain tensioners.

39. Remove Cam Holding Tool T96T-6256-B or equivalent, from the camshaft.

40. Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.

41. Apply silicone gasket along the cylinder head-to-cylinder block and engine oil pan-to-cylinder

block sealing surfaces.

42. Install the engine front cover carefully onto the dowel pins.

43. Tighten the engine front cover bolts, in sequence, in the following manner:

1. Tighten bolts 1 through 5 to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

2. Tighten bolts 6 through 15 to 29-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).

44. Place the idler pulley in position and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-

30 Nm).

45. Place the drive belt tensioner in position and install 3 retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft.

lbs. (20-30 Nm).

46. Place the CMP sensor in position and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs.

(12 Nm).

47. Install the damper on the crankshaft. Ensure the crankshaft key and key-way are aligned.

48. Using Crankshaft Damper Replacer T74P-6316-B or equivalent, install the crankshaft damper.

49. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

50. Install 4 front oil pan-to-engine front cover retaining bolts and tighten in sequence in 2 steps:

1. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

2. Rotate the bolts an additional 60 degrees.

51. Place the CKP sensor in position and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the bolt to 106 inch lbs.

(12 Nm).

52. Connect the CKP sensor electrical harness connector.

53. Install the power steering pump with 2 upper and 2 lower retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-

20 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

54. Lower the vehicle.

55. Place the ignition coil and brackets on the engine front cover and install the bracket bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

56. Connect the ignition coil and capacitor electrical harness connectors.

57. Connect the CMP electrical harness connector.

58. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).

59. Install the radiator.

60. Connect the negative battery cable.

61. Start the engine and check for leaks.

62. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

5.8L Engine

1. Drain the cooling system and the crankcase.

2. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the transmission oil cooler lines and remove

the radiator.

3. Disconnect the heater hose from the water pump. Slide the water pump bypass hose clamp

toward the water pump.

4. Loosen the alternator pivot bolt and the bolt which secures the alternator adjusting arm to the

water pump. Position the alternator out of the way.

5. Remove the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor from their mounting brackets,

if so equipped.

6. Remove the fan, spacer, pulley and drive belts.

7. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper attaching bolt

and washer and remove the damper with a puller.

8. If equipped with a manual fuel pump, disconnect the fuel pump outlet line at the fuel pump.

Disconnect the vacuum inlet and outlet lines from the fuel pump. Remove the fuel pump

attaching bolts and lay the pump to one side with the fuel inlet line still attached.

9. If necessary, remove the oil level dipstick and the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the exhaust

manifold.

10. Remove the oil pan-to-cylinder front cover attaching bolts. Use a sharp, thin cutting blade to cut

the oil pan gasket flush with the cylinder block. Remove the front cover and water pump as an

assembly.

11. Discard the front cover gasket. If necessary, properly support the cover and carefully drive the oil

seal out towards the front of the cover.

12. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to take up the slack on the left side of the chain.

13. Establish a reference point on the cylinder block and measure from this point to the chain.

14. Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to take up the slack on the right side of the chain.

15. Force the left side of the chain out with your fingers and measure the distance between the

reference point and the chain. The timing chain deflection is the difference between the two

measurements. If the deflection exceeds

1

/

2

in. (13mm), replace the timing chain and sprockets.

16. Turn the crankshaft until the timing marks on the sprockets are aligned vertically.

17. Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining screw, if equipped, remove the fuel pump eccentric and

washers.

18. Alternately slide both of the sprockets and timing chain off the crankshaft and camshaft until free

of the engine.

To install:

19. Clean the front cover mating surfaces of all gasket material and/or sealer. If the front cover seal is

being replaced, support the cover to prevent damage and drive out the seal. Coat the new seal

with heavy SJ engine oil and install it in the cover, making sure it is not cocked.

20. Position the timing chain on the sprockets so that the timing marks on the sprockets are aligned

vertically. Alternately slide the sprockets and chain onto the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

21. If equipped with a manual fuel pump, install the fuel pump eccentric washers and attaching bolt

on the camshaft sprocket. Tighten to 40-45 ft. lbs.

22. Cut the new oil pan gasket as needed for a correct fit. Apply sealing compound to the oil pan and

fit the gasket into place.

23. Apply sealing compound to the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block and back side of the front

cover. Position the gasket onto the cylinder block and fit the front cover onto the engine.

24. Coat the screw threads with sealing compound and start all the screws. Center the cover by

inserting an alignment tool (T74P-6019-a or equivalent) in the oil seal.

25. Tighten the oil pan screws first to 12-18 ft. lbs. (17-24 Nm), then tighten the front cover screws to

the same torque.

26. Apply Lubriplate® or equivalent to the oil seal lip and to the vibration damper to prevent damage

to the seal. Coat the front of the crankshaft with engine oil for damper installation.

27. Line up the damper key-way with the key on the crankshaft and push the damper onto the

crankshaft. Install the bolt and washer and tighten to 80 ft. lbs. Install the crankshaft pulley.

28. Install the fan, spacer, pulley and drive belts.

29. Install the bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator, if so equipped.

30. Install the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor.

31. Install the alternator and adjust the belt tension.

32. Connect the heater hose at the water pump.

33. Install the radiator.

34. Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses, and transmission oil cooler lines.

35. Fill the cooling system and the crankcase.

7.5L Engine

Align the marks when installing the timing chain—5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

Align the timing marks on the pulleys

Click to enlarge

Alternately slide both of the sprockets and timing chain off the crankshaft and camshaft

until free of the engine

Click to enlarge

1. Drain the cooling system and crankcase.

2. Remove the radiator shroud and fan.

3. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the automatic transmission oil cooler lines

from the radiator.

4. Remove the radiator upper support and remove the radiator.

5. Loosen the alternator attaching bolts and air conditioning compressor idler pulley and remove

the drive belts with the water pump pulley. Remove the bolts attaching the compressor support

to the water pump and remove the bracket (support), if equipped.

6. Remove the crankshaft pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the bolt and washer attaching

the crankshaft damper and remove the damper with a puller. Remove the woodruff key from the

crankshaft.

7. Loosen the bypass hose at the water pump and disconnect the heater return tube at the water

pump.

8. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet and outlet lines at the fuel pump and remove the fuel pump.

9. Remove the bolts attaching the front cover to the cylinder block. Cut the oil pan seal flush with

the cylinder block face with a thin knife blade prior to separating the cover from the cylinder

block. Remove the cover and water pump as an assembly. Discard the front cover gasket and oil

pan seal.

10. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise to take up the slack on the left side of the chain.

11. Establish a reference point on the cylinder block and measure from this point to the chain.

12. Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to take up the slack on the right side of the chain.

13. Force the left side of the chain out and measure the distance between the reference point and the

chain. The timing chain deflection is the difference between the two measurements. If the

deflection exceeds

1

/

2

in. (13mm), replace the timing chain and sprockets.

14. Turn the crankshaft until the timing marks on the sprockets are aligned vertically.

15. Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining screw and remove the fuel pump eccentric and washers.

16. Alternately slide both of the sprockets and timing chain off the crankshaft and camshaft until free

of the engine.

To install:

17. Position the timing chain on the sprockets so the timing marks on the sprockets are aligned

vertically. Alternately slide the sprockets and chain onto the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

18. Install the fuel pump eccentric washers and attaching bolt on the camshaft sprocket. Tighten to

40-45 ft. lbs. (54-61 Nm).

19. Transfer the water pump if a new cover is going to be installed. Clean all of the gasket sealing

surfaces on both the front cover and the cylinder block.

20. Coat the gasket surface of the oil pan with sealer. Cut and position the required sections of a new

seal on the oil pan. Apply sealer to the corners.

21. Drive out the old front cover oil seal with a pin punch. Clean out the seal recess in the cover. coat

a new seal with Lubriplate® or equivalent grease. Install the seal, making sure the seal spring

remains in the proper position. A front cover seal tool, Ford part no. T72J-117 or equivalent,

makes installation easier.

22. Coat the gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and cover with sealer and position the new gasket

on the block.

23. Position the front cover on the cylinder block. Use care not to damage the seal and gasket or

misplace them.

24. Coat the front cover attaching screws with sealer and install them.

It may be necessary to force the front cover downward to compress the oil pan seal in

order to install the front cover attaching bolts. Use a prybar or drift to engage the cover

screw holes through the cover and pry downward.

25. Install the fuel pump.

26. Connect the fuel inlet and outlet lines at the fuel pump.

27. Tighten the bypass hose at the water pump.

28. Connect the heater return tube at the water pump.

29. Install the woodruff key from the crankshaft.

30. Install the damper.

31. Install the crankshaft pulley on the vibration damper.

32. Install the compressor support on the water pump and install the bracket (support), if equipped.

33. Install the drive belts with the water pump pulley.

34. Install the radiator and upper support.

35. Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the automatic transmission oil cooler lines.

36. Install the radiator shroud and fan.

37. Fill the cooling system and crankcase.

Tighten the fasteners to the following specifications:

Front cover bolts: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

Water pump attaching screws: 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm)

Crankshaft damper: 70-90 ft. lbs. (95-122 Nm)

Crankshaft pulley: 35-50 ft. lbs. (47-68 Nm)

Fuel pump: 19-27 ft. lbs. (26-37 Nm)

Oil pan bolts: 9-11 ft. lbs. (12.2-15.0 Nm) for the

5

/

16

in. (7.9mm) screws and to 7-9 ft. lbs. (9.5-12.2

Nm) for the

1

/

4

in. (6.3mm) screws

Alternator pivot bolt: 45-57 ft. lbs. (61-77 Nm)

Timing Gears and Front Cover

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine.

3. Remove the water pump.

4. Remove the crankshaft damper.

5. Remove the oil pan.

6. Remove the four front cover retaining bolts.

7. Remove the front cover from the engine.

The crankshaft gear sprocket is not serviced separately from the crankshaft. Do not try to

remove the sprocket or you will damage the crankshaft. To replace the crankshaft sprocket

crankshaft replacement is necessary.

Remove the camshaft sprocket as follows:

8. Remove the camshaft.

9. Use a press to remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

The camshaft gear is removed with the camshaft, then pressed off—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

10. Remove the thrust plate and sprocket key.

11. Inspect the camshaft and related parts for wear and damage.

To install:

12. Clean the nose of the camshaft and install the thrust plate.

13. Place the key in the key-way on the camshaft.

14. Heat the sprocket in an oven to 500° F (260° C).

15. Remove the sprocket from the oven, align the sprocket key-way with the camshaft key and install

the sprocket on the camshaft until it is fully seated. Allow the camshaft assembly to cool before

installation

16. Install the camshaft in the engine and align the timing marks on the gears.

Be sure the timing marks are aligned as illustrated—Diesel engines

Click to enlarge

17. Install new gaskets onto the engine front cover and apply silicone sealant into the sealing

grooves on the front cover.

18. Install the front cover onto the engine.

19. Install the four front cover retaining bolts and tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

20. Install the oil pan.

21. Install the crankshaft damper.

22. Install the water pump.

23. Install the engine.

24. Connect the negative battery cable.

Camshaft and Lifters

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the lower intake manifold.

3. Remove the rocker arm cover.

4. Remove the rocker arm hold-down bolt, then remove the rocker arm from the cylinder head.

5. Remove the pushrods.

6. Remove the valve lifters by pulling them up out of their bores.

7. Remove the timing chain and sprockets.

8. Remove the camshaft key from the end of the camshaft, then slide the engine dynamic balance

shaft drive gear off of the camshaft.

9. Remove the two camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts (1), then remove the thrust plate (2).

Remove the camshaft spacer (3), then slide the camshaft (4) out of the front of the engine block.

Be cautious not to gouge or scratch the camshaft bearing journals.

Exploded view of the camshaft retaining hardware—4.2L engine

Click to enlarge

To install:

10. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil prior to installation.

11. Carefully slide the camshaft into the camshaft bore. Do not scratch the bearing surfaces.

12. Install the camshaft thrust plat with the spacer. Tighten the thrust plate mounting bolts to 6-10 ft.

lbs. (8-14 Nm).

13. Slide the engine dynamic balance shaft drive gear onto the camshaft. Install the camshaft key to

the camshaft groove.

14. Install the timing chain and sprockets.

15. Install the valve lifters, pushrods, intake manifolds and rocker arm covers.

4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L Engines

1. Remove the cylinder head covers from the engine.

2. Remove the timing chain.

CAUTION

At no time, when the timing chains are removed and the cylinder

heads are installed may the crankshaft or camshaft be rotated.

Severe piston and valve damage will occur.

3. On the 6.8L engine, remove the six bolts securing the balance shaft to the cylinder head and

remove the shaft.

4. Remove the camshaft roller lifters.

5. On VIN W engines, remove the timing chain camshaft gear by removing the gear retaining bolt.

Keep the bearing caps in order so they can be installed in the same position.

6. Remove the camshaft bearing cap bolts, then lift the camshaft bearing caps off of the cylinder

head.

7. Lift the camshaft from the cylinder head.

8. Remove the rocker arms and pull the lash adjusters out of their bores. Keep all the parts in order.

They must be installed in their original positions.

To install:

9. Install the lash adjusters and rocker arms in their original positions.

10. Lubricate the camshaft journals and bearing caps with super premium SAE 5W30 engine oil

which meets Ford specifications WSS-M2C153-G. On the 6.8L engine, lubricate the balance shaft

journals and bearing caps with the same lubricant.

11. Lower the camshaft onto the camshaft bearing journals.

12. Install the camshaft bearing caps, then loosely install the bearing cap bolts.

Tighten the bearing caps in the sequence shown—4.6L and 5.4L engines

Click to enlarge

Camshaft bearing cap bolt tightening sequence—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

13. Tighten the camshaft bearing cap mounting bolts, in the sequence shown for the particular

engine, to 71-107 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

14. On the 6.8L engine, align the timing marks and position the balance shaft on the journals, then

install the bearing caps. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 71-106 in lbs. (8-12 Nm).

Be sure to align the balance shaft timing mark with the mark on the camshaft gear—6.8L

engine

Click to enlarge

Tighten the balance shaft bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown—6.8L engine

Click to enlarge

15. On VIN W engines, install the camshaft timing chain gear by tightening the retaining bolt to 81-95

ft. lbs. (110-130 Nm).

16. Install the valve lifters.

17. Install the timing chain and sprockets, if applicable.

18. Install the cylinder head covers.

5.8L and 7.5L Engines

1. Remove the intake manifold and valley pan, if equipped.

2. Remove the rocker covers, and loosen the rockers on their pivots and remove the pushrods. The

pushrods must be reinstalled in their original positions.

3. Remove the valve lifters in sequence with a magnet. They must be replaced in their original

positions.

4. Remove the timing gear cover, timing chain and sprockets.

5. In addition to the radiator and air conditioning condenser, if equipped, it may be necessary to

remove the front grille assembly and the hook lock assembly to gain the necessary clearance to

code the camshaft out of the front of the engine.

A camshaft removal tool, Ford part no. T65L-6250-a and adapter 14-0314 are needed to

remove the Diesel camshaft.

Camshaft and related components—5.8L and 7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

To install:

6. Coat the camshaft liberally with clean engine oil before installing it. Slide the camshaft into the

engine very carefully so as not to scratch the bearing bores with the camshaft lobes. Install the

camshaft thrust plate and tighten the attaching screws to 9-12 ft. lbs. (12-16 Nm). Measure the

camshaft end-play. If the end-play is more than 0.009 in. (0.228mm), replace the thrust plate.

Assemble the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

7. Install the radiator, front grille, hood lock assembly and air conditioning condenser, if removed.

8. Install the timing chain and front cover.

9. Install the valve lifters. They must be replaced in their original positions.

10. Install the pushrods, the rocker arms and the rocker arm covers.

11. Install the intake manifold and valley pan, if equipped.

7.3L Diesel Engine

The camshaft gear is removed with the camshaft, then pressed off—7.3L diesel engine

Click to enlarge

Be sure the timing marks are aligned as illustrated—Diesel engines

Click to enlarge

Ford recommends removing the Diesel engine from the vehicle for camshaft removal.

1. Remove the valve covers, and either remove the rocker arm shafts or loosen the rockers on their

pivots and remove the pushrods. The pushrods must be reinstalled in their original positions.

2. Remove the timing gear cover.

3. Remove the valve lifters in sequence with a magnet. They must be replaced in their original

positions.

4. Rotate the crankshaft to align the camshaft sprocket timing marks.

5. Remove the camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts.

6. Remove the camshaft sprocket, thrust plate and camshaft as an assembly from the engine.

To install:

7. Inspect the camshaft as described in this section.

8. liberally coat the camshaft with oil before installing it. Slide the camshaft with the thrust plate and

sprocket attached into the engine very carefully so as not to scratch the bearing bores with the

camshaft lobes.

9. Tighten the camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts to 9-12 ft. lbs. (12-16 Nm). Measure the camshaft

end-play. If the end-play is more than 0.009 in. (0.228mm), replace the thrust plate.

10. Install the valve lifters. They must be replaced in their original positions.

11. Install the timing gear cover.

12. Install the pushrods, the rocker arms and the rocker arm covers.

13. Install the engine.

INSPECTION

Measuring camshaft lobe lift

Click to enlarge

Measuring camshaft run-out

Click to enlarge

Measuring camshaft straightness

Click to enlarge

Using solvent, degrease the camshaft and clean out all of the oil holes. Visually inspect the cam lobes

and bearing journals for excessive wear. If a lobe is questionable, check all of the lobes as indicated.

If a journal or lobe is worn, the camshaft MUST BE or replaced.

If a journal is worn, there is a good chance that the bearings or journals are worn and need

replacement.

If the lobes and journals appear intact, place the front and rear journals in V-blocks and rest a dial

indicator on the center journal. Rotate the camshaft to check the straightness. If deviation exceeds

0.001 in. (0.0254mm), replace the camshaft.

Check the camshaft lobes with a micrometer, by measuring the lobes from the nose to the base and

again at 90° (see illustration). The lobe lift is determined by subtracting the second measurement

from the first. If all of the exhaust and intake lobes are not identical, the camshaft must be reground

or replace.

Balance Shaft

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

4.2L Engine

Remove the balance shaft drive gear and spacer

Click to enlarge

Align the balance shaft timing marks

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.

3. Drain and recycle the engine oil.

4. Remove the engine oil pan.

5. Remove the engine front cover.

6. Remove the timing chain and sprockets.

7. Remove 2 bolts retaining the balance shaft thrust plate.

Use care not to damage the balance shaft bearing surfaces.

8. Carefully slide the balance shaft, driven gear and thrust plate out the front of the cylinder block.

To install:

9. Inspect the balance shaft rear bearing cover. If damaged or leaking, replace the balance shaft rear

bearing cover. Inspect the balance shaft and bearings for signs of wear or damage and replace

as necessary.

10. Lubricate the balance shaft journals with engine assembly lubricant.

11. Install the balance shaft, driven gear and thrust plate, being careful not to damage the bearing

surfaces while sliding it into position. Install 2 thrust plate retaining bolts and tighten to 70-124

inch lbs. (8-14 Nm).

12. Install the balance shaft drive gear and spacer.

13. Align the balance shaft timing marks.

14. Install the timing chain and sprockets.

15. Install the engine front cover.

16. Install the engine oil pan.

17. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil.

18. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.

19. Connect the negative battery cable.

20. Start the engine and check for leaks.

21. Road test the vehicle and check for proper engine operation.

6.8L Engine

Remove the bolts and the balance shaft bearing caps

Click to enlarge

Remove the balance shafts from the cylinder head

Click to enlarge

Align the balance shaft timing marks as shown

Click to enlarge

Tighten the balance shaft bearing caps in the sequence shown

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.

3. Remove the radiator.

4. Remove the engine front cover.

5. Remove the crankshaft sensor ring from the crankshaft.

6. Remove the 6 bolts retaining the balance shaft bearing caps. Remove the bearing caps.

7. Remove the balance shaft.

To install

8. Lubricate the balance shaft journals with clean engine oil.

9. Install the balance shaft onto the journals. Align the balance shaft timing marks.

10. Install the bearing caps and tighten the bolts in the proper sequence. Torque the bolts to 71-106

inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).

11. Clean the front engine cover sealant off the engine. Allow to dry and apply a bead of silicone

along the head-to-block surface. Apply a bead of silicone along the oil pan-to-block surface.

12. Install a new gasket and install the engine front cover.

13. Install the radiator.

14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

15. Install the engine air cleaner.

16. Connect the negative battery cable.

Rear Main Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

7.5L Engine

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the oil pan.

3. Loosen all the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts and lower the crankshaft no more than

1

/

32

in.

(0.7938mm).

CAUTION

Be careful that the crankshaft sealing surfaces are not damaged in

this process

4. Remove the rear main bearing cap and remove the seal. On the cylinder block half of the seal,

use a seal removal tool, or install a small metal screw in one end of the seal and pull on the

screw to remove the seal.

To install:

5. Clean the seal groove in the crankshaft main bearing cap and the block using a brush and a

solvent such as metal surface cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or its equivalent.

6. Clean the areas where the sealer is to be applied later and dry the area thoroughly so that no

solvent contacts the rear main seal.

7. Dip the seal halves in engine oil.

Rear main seal and related components—7.5L engines

Click to enlarge

CAUTION

Be sure no rubber has been removed from the outside diameter of the

seal by the bottom edge of the groove. Do not allow oil to get on the

sealer.

8. Install the upper half of the seal (cylinder block side) into its groove with the undercut side of the

seal towards the front of the engine (with the tab side of the seal towards the rear face of the

block), by rotating it on the seal journal until approximately

3

/

8

in. (9.525mm) protrudes below the

parting surface.

9. Tighten all the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts, EXCEPT THE REAR MAIN BEARING, to 95-105

ft. lbs. (129-142 Nm).

10. Install the lower half of the seal in the rear crankshaft main bearing cap with the undercut side of

the seal towards the front of the engine (with the tab side of the seal towards the rear face of the

block), Allow the seal to protrude

3

/

8

in. (9.525mm) above the parting surface to mate with the

upper half of the seal.

11. Apply a

1

/

16

in. (1.588mm) bead of gasket maker E2AZ-19562-B or its equivalent to the rear oil

seal area of the block starting from the forward face of the return groove and overlaying the end

of the wire seal retainer.

Do not allow the sealer to contact the inside diameter of the seal.

12. Install the rear main cap and tighten the bolts to 95-105 ft. lbs. (129-142 Nm).

13. Install the oil pan.

Gasoline Engines Except 7.5L Engine

If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the

vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a

rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work

stand.

1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to Section 7 .

2. Remove the flywheel/flexplate. If equipped, remove the crankshaft oil slinger from the crankshaft.

3. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides

of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap-to-cylinder block split line.

4. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two small prybars to pry against both screws at the

same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of

wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the prybars. Use caution

throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal

surface.

5. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.

To install:

6. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft.

7. Coat the new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil.

Rear main oil seal installation— 5.8L engine

Click to enlarge

8. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep

the tool straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts

the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged

during installation.

9. If equipped, install the crankshaft oil slinger.

10. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts

with Locktite® and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to 75-

85 ft. lbs. (102-115 Nm).

11. Install the transmission. Refer to Section 7 .

7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Remove the transmission. Refer to Section 7 .

2. Remove the flywheel.

3. Loosen the crankshaft rear oil seal bolts and remove the seal.

4. Clean the seal mating surfaces.

5. If installing the old seal, inspect it for damage.

6. Using crankshaft wear ring removal tool T94T-6701-AH1, forcing screw T84T-7025-B, remover

tube T77J-7025-B and wear ring remover sleeve T94T-6701-AH2 (refer to the illustration), or their

equivalents, remove the wear ring.

Assemble the seal and wear ring removal tools, then remove the wear ring—7.3L diesel

engine

Click to enlarge

To install:

7. Apply silicone sealant D6AZ-19562-BA, or equivalent, to the seal retaining ring and the seal

retaining bolts.

8. using seal replacers T94T-6701-AH3 and T94T-AH4, driver sleeve T79T-6316-A4 (part of T79T-

6316-A) and guide pins T94P-7000-P or their equivalents, install the wear ring and oil seal.

9. Install and tighten the seal retaining bolts.

10. Remove the installation tools and install the flywheel.

11. Install the transmission. Refer to Section 7 .

Flywheel/Flexplate

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

All Engines

Check the flywheel run-out

Click to enlarge

The ring gear is replaceable only on engines mated with a manual transmission. Engines

with automatic transmissions have ring gears which are welded to the flexplate.

1. Remove the transmission assembly. Refer to Section 7 .

2. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate assembly. Refer to

Section 7 .

3. Loosen the flywheel bolts a little at a time in a cross pattern to avoid warping the flywheel.

4. Remove the flywheel from the engine.

5. On trucks with manual transmissions, replace the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.

6. The flywheel should be checked for cracks and glazing. It can be resurfaced by a machine shop.

7. If the ring gear is to be replaced, drill a hole in the gear between two teeth, being careful not to

contact the flywheel surface. Using a cold chisel at this point, crack the ring gear and remove it.

8. Polish the inner surface of the new ring gear and heat it in an oven to about 600°F (316°C).

Quickly place the ring gear on the flywheel and tap it into place, making sure that it is fully

seated.

WARNING

Never heat the ring gear past 800°F (426°C), or the tempering will be

destroyed.

To install:

9. Position the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the bolts a little at a time, in a cross

pattern, to the following torque:

4.2L Engine 54-64 ft. lbs. (73-87 Nm)

4.6L Engine 54-64 ft. lbs. (73-87 Nm)

5.4L Engine 54-64 ft. lbs. (73-87 Nm)

5.8L Engine 75-85 ft. lbs. (103-115 Nm)

6.8L Engine 54-64 ft. lbs. (73-87 Nm)

7.3L Engine 89 ft. lbs. (121 Nm)

7.5L Engine 75-85 ft. lbs. (103-115 Nm)

10. Install the clutch and pressure plate assembly. Refer to Section 7 .

11. Install the transmission assembly. Refer to Section 7 .

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Exhaust System

Safety glasses should be worn at all times when working on or near the exhaust system.

Older exhaust systems will almost always be covered with loose rust particles which will

shower you when disturbed. These particles are more than a nuisance and could injure

your eye.

CAUTION

DO NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspection with the engine or

exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool completely before attempting

any work. Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges, flaking metal

and rusted bolts. Gloves and eye protection are required. A healthy

supply of penetrating oil and rags is highly recommended.

Cracks in the muffler are a guaranteed leak

Check the muffler for rotted spot welds and seams

Your vehicle must be raised and supported safely to inspect the exhaust system properly. By placing 4

safety stands under the vehicle for support should provide enough room for you to slide under the

vehicle and inspect the system completely. Start the inspection at the exhaust manifold or

turbocharger pipe where the header pipe is attached and work your way to the back of the vehicle.

On dual exhaust systems, remember to inspect both sides of the vehicle. Check the complete exhaust

system for open seams, holes loose connections, or other deterioration which could permit exhaust

fumes to seep into the passenger compartment. Inspect all mounting brackets and hangers for

deterioration, some models may have rubber O-rings that can be overstretched and non-supportive.

These components will need to be replaced if found. It has always been a practice to use a pointed

tool to poke up into the exhaust system where the deterioration spots are to see whether or not they

crumble. Some models may have heat shield covering certain parts of the exhaust system , it will be

necessary to remove these shields to have the exhaust visible for inspection also.

Make sure the exhaust components are not contacting the body or suspension

Check for overstretched or torn exhaust hangers

Example of a badly deteriorated exhaust pipe

Inspect flanges for gaskets that have deteriorated and need replacement

Some systems, like this one, use large O-rings (doughnuts) in between the flanges

REPLACEMENT

There are basically two types of exhaust systems. One is the flange type where the component ends

are attached with bolts and a gasket in-between. The other exhaust system is the slip joint type.

These components slip into one another using clamps to retain them together.

CAUTION

Allow the exhaust system to cool sufficiently before spraying a solvent

exhaust fasteners. Some solvents are highly flammable and could

ignite when sprayed on hot exhaust components.

Before removing any component of the exhaust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust dissolving agent

onto the fasteners for ease of removal. A lot of knuckle skin will be saved by following this rule. It

may even be wise to spray the fasteners and allow them to sit overnight.

Flange Type

Nuts and bolts will be extremely difficult to remove when deteriorated with rust

CAUTION

Do NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspection with the engine or

exhaust hot. Allow the system to cool completely before attempting

any work. Exhaust systems are noted for sharp edges, flaking metal

and rusted bolts. Gloves and eye protection are required. A healthy

supply of penetrating oil and rags is highly recommended. Never

spray liquid rust dissolving agent onto a hot exhaust component.

Example of a flange type exhaust system joint

Before removing any component on a flange type system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust dissolving agent

onto the fasteners for ease of removal. Start by unbolting the exhaust piece at both ends (if

required). When unbolting the headpipe from the manifold, make sure that the bolts are free before

trying to remove them. if you snap a stud in the exhaust manifold, the stud will have to be removed

with a bolt extractor, which often means removal of the manifold itself. Next, disconnect the

component from the mounting; slight twisting and turning may be required to remove the component

completely from the vehicle. You may need to tap on the component with a rubber mallet to loosen

the component. If all else fails, use a hacksaw to separate the parts. An oxy-acetylene cutting torch

may be faster but the sparks are DANGEROUS near the fuel tank, and at the very least, accidents

could happen, resulting in damage to the under-car parts, not to mention yourself.

Slip Joint Type

Example of a common slip joint type system

Before removing any component on the slip joint type exhaust system, ALWAYS squirt a liquid rust

dissolving agent onto the fasteners for ease of removal. Start by unbolting the exhaust piece at both

ends (if required). When unbolting the headpipe from the manifold, make sure that the bolts are free

before trying to remove them. if you snap a stud in the exhaust manifold, the stud will have to be

removed with a bolt extractor, which often means removal of the manifold itself. Next, remove the

mounting U-bolts from around the exhaust pipe you are extracting from the vehicle. Don't be

surprised if the U-bolts break while removing the nuts. Loosen the exhaust pipe from any mounting

brackets retaining it to the floor pan and separate the components.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Engine Reconditioning

Determining Engine Condition

Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb

generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With this in mind, a running engine generates

tremendous amounts of both; friction is encountered by the moving and rotating parts inside the

engine and heat is created by friction and combustion of the fuel. However, the engine has systems

designed to help reduce the effects of heat and friction and provide added longevity. The oiling

system reduces the amount of friction encountered by the moving parts inside the engine, while the

cooling system reduces heat created by friction and combustion. If either system is not maintained, a

break-down will be inevitable. Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can affect the service

life of your vehicle. If you do not drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the proper intervals,

deposits will begin to accumulate in the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it can extract

from the coolant. The same applies to your oil and filter; if it is not changed often enough it becomes

laden with contaminates and is unable to properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction and

wear.

There are a number of methods for evaluating the condition of your engine. A compression test can

reveal the condition of your pistons, piston rings, cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve

seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessive oil

consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may

indicate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that

uses no more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in good condition. Engines that use one quart

of oil or more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present,

have them fixed before determining how much oil is consumed by the engine, especially if blue

smoke is not visible at the tailpipe.

COMPRESSION TEST

A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured over

an extended period are all indicators of internal engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn

cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt valves, and worn valve seats are all possible

culprits. A check of each cylinder's compression will help locate the problem.

Gasoline Engines

A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate than the type you simply hold against

the spark plug hole. sAlthough it takes slightly longer to use, it's worth the effort to obtain

a more accurate reading.

1. Make sure that the proper amount and viscosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure the

battery is fully charged.

2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut the engine OFF.

3. Disable the ignition system.

4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug wires from the plugs.

5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark

plugs.

6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-open throttle) position. You can block the accelerator

linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant fully depress the accelerator pedal.

A screw-in type compression gauge is more accurate and easier to use without an

assistant

7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.

WARNING

Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug hole.

8. According to the tool manufacturer's instructions, connect a remote starting switch to the

starting circuit.

9. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, use the remote starting switch to crank the engine

through at least five compression strokes (approximately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the

highest reading on the gauge.

10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of

compression strokes and/or time as the first.

11. Compare the highest readings from each cylinder to that of the others. The indicated

compression pressures are considered within specifications if the lowest reading cylinder is

within 75 percent of the pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder. For example, if your

highest reading cylinder pressure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that would be 113

psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).

12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine

oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the

compression rises after adding oil, it means that the cylinder's piston rings and/or cylinder bore

are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a

valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any

two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil doesn't help raise compression, there is

leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the combustion chamber, combined with blue or

constant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of this problem. However, don't be

alarmed by the normal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during engine warm-up or from

cold weather driving. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick and/or oil

droplets in the cooling system if a head gasket is blown.

Diesel Engines

Checking cylinder compression on diesel engines is basically the same procedure as on gasoline

engines except for the following:

1. A special compression gauge adapter suitable for diesel engines (because these engines have

much greater compression pressures) must be used.

2. Remove the injector tubes and remove the injectors from each cylinder.

WARNING

Do not forget to remove the washer underneath each injector.

Otherwise, it may get lost when the engine is cranked.

3. When fitting the compression gauge adapter to the cylinder head, make sure the bleeder of the

gauge (if equipped) is closed.

4. When reinstalling the injector assemblies, install new washers underneath each injector.

OIL PRESSURE TEST

Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil

pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer

may also be needed, as some specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.

1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil pressure sending unit.

2. Following the manufacturer's instructions, connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if

necessary, a tachometer to the engine.

3. Start the engine and allow it to idle.

4. Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You may need to run the

engine at a specified rpm, so check the specifications.

5. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel

warm).

6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine

OFF.

7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that given in the chart. If the reading is low, check the

cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold pressure is well above the specification, and

the hot reading was lower than the specification, you may have the wrong viscosity oil in the

engine. Change the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and quantity, then repeat the test.

Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to internal component wear, pump related problems, a

low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil pressure readings could be caused by an

overfilled crankcase, too high of an oil viscosity or a faulty pressure relief valve.

Buy or Rebuild

Now that you have determined that your engine is worn out, you must make some decisions. The

question of whether or not an engine is worth rebuilding is largely a subjective matter and one of

personal worth. Is the engine a popular one, or is it an obsolete model? Are parts available? Will it

get acceptable gas mileage once it is rebuilt? Is the car it's being put into worth keeping? Would it be

less expensive to buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro, rebuild it yourself or buy a

used engine from a salvage yard? Or would it be simpler and less expensive to buy another car? If

you have considered all these matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild the engine, then it

is time to decide how you will rebuild it.

The editors at Chilton feel that most engine machining should be performed by a

professional machine shop. Don't think of it as wasting money, rather, as an assurance

that the job has been done right the first time. There are many expensive and specialized

tools required to perform such tasks as boring and honing an engine block or having a

valve job done on a cylinder head. Even inspecting the parts requires expensive

micrometers and gauges to properly measure wear and clearances. Also, a machine shop

can deliver to you clean, and ready to assemble parts, saving you time and aggravation.

Your maximum savings will come from performing the removal, disassembly, assembly and

installation of the engine and purchasing or renting only the tools required to perform the

above tasks. Depending on the particular circumstances, you may save 40 to 60 percent of

the cost doing these yourself.

A complete rebuild or overhaul of an engine involves replacing all of the moving parts (pistons, rods,

crankshaft, camshaft, etc.) with new ones and machining the non-moving wearing surfaces of the

block and heads. Unfortunately, this may not be cost effective. For instance, your crankshaft may

have been damaged or worn, but it can be machined undersize for a minimal fee.

So, as you can see, you can replace everything inside the engine, but, it is wiser to replace only those

parts which are really needed, and, if possible, repair the more expensive ones. Later in this section,

we will break the engine down into its two main components: the cylinder head and the engine block.

We will discuss each component, and the recommended parts to replace during a rebuild on each.

Engine Overhaul Tips

Most engine overhaul procedures are fairly standard. In addition to specific parts replacement

procedures and specifications for your individual engine, this section is also a guide to acceptable

rebuilding procedures. Examples of standard rebuilding practice are given and should be used along

with specific details concerning your particular engine.

Competent and accurate machine shop services will ensure maximum performance, reliability and

engine life. In most instances it is more profitable for the do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean

and inspect the component, buy the necessary parts and deliver these to a shop for actual machine

work.

Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, piston rods, and other components) is well within

the scope of the do-it-yourself mechanic's tools and abilities. You will have to decide for yourself the

depth of involvement you desire in an engine repair or rebuild.

TOOLS

The tools required for an engine overhaul or parts replacement will depend on the depth of your

involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be the tools found in a mechanic's tool kit (see Section

1 of this manual). More in-depth work will require some or all of the following:

A dial indicator (reading in thousandths) mounted on a universal base

Micrometers and telescope gauges

Jaw and screw-type pullers

Scraper

Valve spring compressor

Ring groove cleaner

Piston ring expander and compressor

Ridge reamer

Cylinder hone or glaze breaker

Plastigage®

Engine stand

The use of most of these tools is illustrated in this section. Many can be rented for a one-time use

from a local parts jobber or tool supply house specializing in automotive work.

Occasionally, the use of special tools is called for. See the information on Special Tools and the Safety

Notice in the front of this book before substituting another tool.

OVERHAUL TIPS

Aluminum has become extremely popular for use in engines, due to its low weight. Observe the

following precautions when handling aluminum parts:

Never hot tank aluminum parts (the caustic hot tank solution will eat the aluminum.

Remove all aluminum parts (identification tag, etc.) from engine parts prior to the tanking.

Always coat threads lightly with engine oil or anti-seize compounds before installation, to prevent

seizure.

Never overtighten bolts or spark plugs especially in aluminum threads.

When assembling the engine, any parts that will be exposed to frictional contact must be prelubed to

provide lubrication at initial start-up. Any product specifically formulated for this purpose can be

used, but engine oil is not recommended as a prelube in most cases.

When semi-permanent (locked, but removable) installation of bolts or nuts is desired, threads should

be cleaned and coated with Loctite® or another similar, commercial non-hardening sealant.

CLEANING

Before the engine and its components are inspected, they must be thoroughly cleaned. You will need

to remove any engine varnish, oil sludge and/or carbon deposits from all of the components to insure

an accurate inspection. A crack in the engine block or cylinder head can easily become overlooked if

hidden by a layer of sludge or carbon.

Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and ...

... engine block of any gasket material left

After the gasket material has been removed, wipe the head and ...

... engine block clean using a suitable solvent

Most of the cleaning process can be carried out with common hand tools and readily available solvents

or solutions. Carbon deposits can be chipped away using a hammer and a hard wooden chisel. Old

gasket material and varnish or sludge can usually be removed using a scraper and/or cleaning

solvent. Extremely stubborn deposits may require the use of a power drill with a wire brush. If using

a wire brush, use extreme care around any critical machined surfaces (such as the gasket surfaces,

bearing saddles, cylinder bores, etc.). Use of a wire brush is NOT RECOMMENDED on any aluminum

components. Always follow any safety recommendations given by the manufacturer of the tool and/or

solvent. You should always wear eye protection during any cleaning process involving scraping,

chipping or spraying of solvents.

An alternative to the mess and hassle of cleaning the parts yourself is to drop them off at a local

garage or machine shop. They will, more than likely, have the necessary equipment to properly clean

all of the parts for a nominal fee.

CAUTION

Always wear eye protection during any cleaning process involving

scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.

Use a ring expander tool to remove the piston rings

Click to enlarge

Remove any oil galley plugs, freeze plugs and/or pressed-in bearings and carefully wash and degrease

all of the engine components including the fasteners and bolts. Small parts such as the valves,

springs, etc., should be placed in a metal basket and allowed to soak. Use pipe cleaner type brushes,

and clean all passageways in the components. Use a ring expander and remove the rings from the

pistons. Clean the piston ring grooves with a special tool or a piece of broken ring. Scrape the carbon

off of the top of the piston. You should never use a wire brush on the pistons. After preparing all of

the piston assemblies in this manner, wash and degrease them again.

Clean the piston ring grooves using a ring groove cleaner tool, or ...

... use a piece of an old ring to clean the grooves. Be careful, the ring can be quite sharp

WARNING

Use extreme care when cleaning around the cylinder head valve

seats. A mistake or slip may cost you a new seat.

When cleaning the cylinder head, remove carbon from the combustion chamber with the valves

installed. This will avoid damaging the valve seats.

REPAIRING DAMAGED THREADS

Damaged bolt hole threads can be replaced with thread repair inserts

Click to enlarge

Standard thread repair insert (left), and spark plug thread insert

Click to enlarge

Drill out the damaged threads with the specified size bit. Be sure to drill completely

through the hole or to the bottom of a blind hole

Click to enlarge

Using the kit, tap the hole in order to receive the thread insert. Keep the tap well oiled

and back it out frequently to avoid clogging the threads

Click to enlarge

Screw the insert onto the installer tool until the tang engages the slot. Thread the insert

into the hole until it is 1 /

4

1 /

2

turn below the top surface, then remove the tool and

break off the tang using a punch

Click to enlarge

Several methods of repairing damaged threads are available. Heli-Coil(r) (shown here), Keenserts(r)

and Microdot(r) are among the most widely used. All involve basically the same principle—drilling out

stripped threads, tapping the hole and installing a prewound insert—making welding, plugging and

oversize fasteners unnecessary.

Two types of thread repair inserts are usually supplied: a standard type for most inch coarse, inch

fine, metric course and metric fine thread sizes and a spark lug type to fit most spark plug port sizes.

Consult the individual tool manufacturer's catalog to determine exact applications. Typical thread

repair kits will contain a selection of prewound threaded inserts, a tap (corresponding to the outside

diameter threads of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug inserts usually differ because they

require a tap equipped with pilot threads and a combined reamer/tap section. Most manufacturers

also supply blister-packed thread repair inserts separately in addition to a master kit containing a

variety of taps and inserts plus installation tools.

Before attempting to repair a threaded hole, remove any snapped, broken or damaged bolts or studs.

Penetrating oil can be used to free frozen threads. The offending item can usually be removed with

locking pliers or using a screw/stud extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread can be repaired, as

shown in the series of accompanying illustrations and in the kit manufacturer's instructions.

Engine Preparation

To properly rebuild an engine, you must first remove it from the vehicle, then disassemble and

diagnose it. Ideally you should place your engine on an engine stand. This affords you the best

access to the engine components. Follow the manufacturer's directions for using the stand with your

particular engine. Remove the flywheel or flexplate before installing the engine to the stand.

Now that you have the engine on a stand, and assuming that you have drained the oil and coolant

from the engine, it's time to strip it of all but the necessary components. Before you start

disassembling the engine, you may want to take a moment to draw some pictures, or fabricate some

labels or containers to mark the locations of various components and the bolts and/or studs which

fasten them. Modern day engines use a lot of little brackets and clips which hold wiring harnesses and

such, and these holders are often mounted on studs and/or bolts that can be easily mixed up. The

manufacturer spent a lot of time and money designing your vehicle, and they wouldn't have wasted

any of it by haphazardly placing brackets, clips or fasteners on the vehicle. If it's present when you

disassemble it, put it back when you assemble, you will regret not remembering that little bracket

which holds a wire harness out of the path of a rotating part.

You should begin by unbolting any accessories still attached to the engine, such as the water pump,

power steering pump, alternator, etc. Then, unfasten any manifolds (intake or exhaust) which were

not removed during the engine removal procedure. Finally, remove any covers remaining on the

engine such as the rocker arm, front or timing cover and oil pan. Some front covers may require the

vibration damper and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand. The idea is to reduce the engine to

the bare necessities (cylinder head(s), valve train, engine block, crankshaft, pistons and connecting

rods), plus any other `in block' components such as oil pumps, balance shafts and auxiliary shafts.

Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the engine block and carefully place on a bench.

Disassembly instructions for each component follow later in this section.

Cylinder Head

There are two basic types of cylinder heads used on today's automobiles: the Overhead Valve (OHV)

and the Overhead Camshaft (OHC). The latter can also be broken down into two subgroups: the

Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) and the Dual Overhead Camshaft (DOHC). Generally, if there is

only a single camshaft on a head, it is just referred to as an OHC head. Also, an engine with an OHV

cylinder head is also known as a pushrod engine.

Most cylinder heads these days are made of an aluminum alloy due to its light weight, durability and

heat transfer qualities. However, cast iron was the material of choice in the past, and is still used on

many vehicles today. Whether made from aluminum or iron, all cylinder heads have valves and seats.

Some use two valves per cylinder, while the more hi-tech engines will utilize a multi-valve

configuration using 3, 4 and even 5 valves per cylinder. When the valve contacts the seat, it does so

on precision machined surfaces, which seals the combustion chamber. All cylinder heads have a valve

guide for each valve. The guide centers the valve to the seat and allows it to move up and down

within it. The clearance between the valve and guide can be critical. Too much clearance and the

engine may consume oil, lose vacuum and/or damage the seat. Too little, and the valve can stick in

the guide causing the engine to run poorly if at all, and possibly causing severe damage. The last

component all cylinder heads have are valve springs. The spring holds the valve against its seat. It

also returns the valve to this position when the valve has been opened by the valve train or

camshaft. The spring is fastened to the valve by a retainer and valve locks (sometimes called

keepers). Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim to keep the spring from wearing away

the aluminum.

An ideal method of rebuilding the cylinder head would involve replacing all of the valves, guides,

seats, springs, etc. with new ones. However, depending on how the engine was maintained, often

this is not necessary. A major cause of valve, guide and seat wear is an improperly tuned engine. An

engine that is running too rich, will often wash the lubricating oil out of the guide with gasoline,

causing it to wear rapidly. Conversely, an engine which is running too lean will place higher

combustion temperatures on the valves and seats allowing them to wear or even burn. Springs fall

victim to the driving habits of the individual. A driver who often runs the engine rpm to the redline

will wear out or break the springs faster then one that stays well below it. Unfortunately, mileage

takes it toll on all of the parts. Generally, the valves, guides, springs and seats in a cylinder head can

be machined and re-used, saving you money. However, if a valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace

all of the valves, since they were all operating in the same environment. The same goes for any other

component on the cylinder head. Think of it as an insurance policy against future problems related to

that component.

Unfortunately, the only way to find out which components need replacing, is to disassemble and

carefully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the

components.

DISASSEMBLY

4.2L, 5.8L, and 7.5L Gas Engines and 7.3L Diesel Engine

Before disassembling the cylinder head, you may want to fabricate some containers to hold the

various parts, as some of them can be quite small (such as keepers) and easily lost. Also keeping

yourself and the components organized will aid in assembly and reduce confusion. Where possible,

try to maintain a components original location; this is especially important if there is not going to be

any machine work performed on the components.

1. If you haven't already removed the rocker arms and/or shafts, do so now.

2. Position the head so that the springs are easily accessed.

When removing an OHV valve spring, use a compressor tool to relieve the tension from

the retainer

3. Use a valve spring compressor tool, and relieve spring tension from the retainer.

Due to engine varnish, the retainer may stick to the valve locks. A gentle tap with a

hammer may help to break it loose.

A small magnet will help in removal of the valve locks

Be careful not to lose the small valve locks (keepers)

4. Remove the valve locks from the valve tip and/or retainer. A small magnet may help in removing

the locks.

5. Lift the valve spring, tool and all, off of the valve stem.

Remove the valve seal from the valve stem—O-ring type seal shown

Removing an umbrella/positive type seal

6. If equipped, remove the valve seal. If the seal is difficult to remove with the valve in place, try

removing the valve first, then the seal. Follow the steps below for valve removal.

Invert the cylinder head and withdraw the valve from the valve guide bore

7. Position the head to allow access for withdrawing the valve.

Cylinder heads that have seen a lot of miles and/or abuse may have mushroomed the valve

lock grove and/or tip, causing difficulty in removal of the valve. If this has happened, use a

metal file to carefully remove the high spots around the lock grooves and/or tip. Only file it

enough to allow removal.

8. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.

9. If equipped, remove the valve spring shim. A small magnetic tool or screwdriver will aid in

removal.

10. Repeat Steps 3 though 9 until all of the valves have been removed.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

Whether it is a single or dual overhead camshaft cylinder head, the disassembly procedure is

relatively unchanged. One aspect to pay attention to is careful labeling of the parts on the dual

camshaft cylinder head. There will be an intake camshaft and followers as well as an exhaust

camshaft and followers and they must be labeled as such. In some cases, the components are

identical and could easily be installed incorrectly. DO NOT MIX THEM UP! Determining which is which

is very simple; the intake camshaft and components are on the same side of the head as was the

intake manifold. Conversely, the exhaust camshaft and components are on the same side of the head

as was the exhaust manifold.

Exploded view of a valve, seal, spring, retainer and locks from an OHC cylinder head

Example of a multi-valve cylinder head. Note how it has 2 intake and 2 exhaust valve

ports

ROCKER ARM TYPE CAMSHAFT FOLLOWERS

Most cylinder heads with rocker arm-type camshaft followers are easily disassembled using a standard

valve spring compressor. However, certain models may not have enough open space around the

spring for the standard tool and may require you to use a C-clamp style compressor tool instead.

Example of the shaft mounted rocker arms on some OHC heads

Another example of the rocker arm type OHC head. This model uses a follower under the

camshaft

1. If not already removed, remove the rocker arms and/or shafts and the camshaft. If applicable,

also remove the hydraulic lash adjusters. Mark their positions for assembly.

Before the camshaft can be removed, all of the followers must first be removed ...

... then the camshaft can be removed by sliding it out (shown), or unbolting a bearing

cap (not shown)

2. Position the cylinder head to allow access to the valve spring.

3. Use a valve spring compressor tool to relieve the spring tension from the retainer.

Compress the valve spring ...

Due to engine varnish, the retainer may stick to the valve locks. A gentle tap with a

hammer may help to break it loose.

... then remove the valve locks from the valve stem and spring retainer

4. Remove the valve locks from the valve tip and/or retainer. A small magnet may help in removing

the small locks.

5. Lift the valve spring, tool and all, off of the valve stem.

Remove the valve spring and retainer from the cylinder head

6. If equipped, remove the valve seal. If the seal is difficult to remove with the valve in place, try

removing the valve first, then the seal. Follow the steps below for valve removal.

Remove the valve seal from the guide. Some gentle prying or pliers may help to remove

stubborn ones

7. Position the head to allow access for withdrawing the valve.

Cylinder heads that have seen a lot of miles and/or abuse may have mushroomed the valve

lock grove and/or tip, causing difficulty in removal of the valve. If this has happened, use a

metal file to carefully remove the high spots around the lock grooves and/or tip. Only file it

enough to allow removal.

8. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.

All aluminum and some cast iron heads will have these valve spring shims. Remove all of

them as well

9. If equipped, remove the valve spring shim. A small magnetic tool or screwdriver will aid in

removal.

10. Repeat Steps 3 though 9 until all of the valves have been removed.

INSPECTION

Now that all of the cylinder head components are clean, it's time to inspect them for wear and/or

damage. To accurately inspect them, you will need some specialized tools:

A 0-1 in. micrometer for the valves

A dial indicator or inside diameter gauge for the valve guides

A spring pressure test gauge

If you do not have access to the proper tools, you may want to bring the components to a shop that

does.

Valves

The first thing to inspect are the valve heads. Look closely at the head, margin and face for any

cracks, excessive wear or burning. The margin is the best place to look for burning. It should have a

squared edge with an even width all around the diameter. When a valve burns, the margin will look

melted and the edges rounded. Also inspect the valve head for any signs of tulipping. This will show

as a lifting of the edges or dishing in the center of the head and will usually not occur to all of the

valves. All of the heads should look the same, any that seem dished more than others are probably

bad. Next, inspect the valve lock grooves and valve tips. Check for any burrs around the lock

grooves, especially if you had to file them to remove the valve. Valve tips should appear flat,

although slight rounding with high mileage engines is normal. Slightly worn valve tips will need to be

machined flat. Last, measure the valve stem diameter with the micrometer. Measure the area that

rides within the guide, especially towards the tip where most of the wear occurs. Take several

measurements along its length and compare them to each other. Wear should be even along the

length with little to no taper. If no minimum diameter is given in the specifications, then the stem

should not read more than 0.001 in. (0.025mm) below the unworn area of the valve stem. Any

valves that fail these inspections should be replaced.

Valve stems may be rolled on a flat surface to check for bends

Use a micrometer to check the valve stem diameter

Springs, Retainers and Valve Locks

The first thing to check is the most obvious, broken springs. Next check the free length and

squareness of each spring. If applicable, insure to distinguish between intake and exhaust springs.

Use a ruler and/or carpenter's square to measure the length. A carpenter's square should be used to

check the springs for squareness. If a spring pressure test gauge is available, check each springs

rating and compare to the specifications chart. Check the readings against the specifications given.

Any springs that fail these inspections should be replaced.

The spring retainers rarely need replacing, however they should still be checked as a precaution.

Inspect the spring mating surface and the valve lock retention area for any signs of excessive wear.

Also check for any signs of cracking. Replace any retainers that are questionable.

Valve locks should be inspected for excessive wear on the outside contact area as well as on the inner

notched surface. Any locks which appear worn or broken and its respective valve should be replaced.

Use a caliper to check the valve spring free-length

Check the valve spring for squareness on a flat surface; a carpenter's square can be used

Cylinder Head

There are several things to check on the cylinder head: valve guides, seats, cylinder head surface

flatness, cracks and physical damage.

VALVE GUIDES

Now that you know the valves are good, you can use them to check the guides, although a new valve,

if available, is preferred. Before you measure anything, look at the guides carefully and inspect them

for any cracks, chips or breakage. Also if the guide is a removable style (as in most aluminum

heads), check them for any looseness or evidence of movement. All of the guides should appear to be

at the same height from the spring seat. If any seem lower (or higher) from another, the guide has

moved. Mount a dial indicator onto the spring side of the cylinder head. Lightly oil the valve stem and

insert it into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator against the valve stem near the tip and zero

the gauge. Grasp the valve stem and wiggle towards and away from the dial indicator and observe

the readings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the initial point and zero the gauge and again

take a reading. Compare the two readings for a out of round condition. Check the readings against

the specifications given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed for valve guides will give you an

accurate valve guide bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare the readings with the

specifications given. Any guides that fail these inspections should be replaced or machined.

A dial gauge may be used to check valve stem-to-guide clearance; read the gauge while

moving the valve stem

VALVE SEATS

A visual inspection of the valve seats should show a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve

face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is

badly worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A severely worn or recessed seat may need to be

replaced. All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat concentricity gauge, if available, should be used

to check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifications the seat must be machined (if no

specification is given use 0.002 in. or 0.051mm).

CYLINDER HEAD SURFACE FLATNESS

After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the

head for flatness.

Check the head for flatness across the center of the head surface using a straightedge

and feeler gauge

Checks should also be made along both diagonals of the head surface

Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the

center of the straightedge and across the cylinder head at several points. Check along the centerline

and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in.

(15.2cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total length of the head, the cylinder head must be

resurfaced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine, the intake manifold flange surface should

be checked, and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for the change in its mounting position.

CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE

Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion chamber, however, it is not uncommon for the head to

crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first

area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust seat/port area.

A visual inspection should be performed, but just because you don't see a crack does not mean it is

not there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for cracks include Magnaflux®, a magnetic

process or Zyglo®, a dye penetrant. Magnaflux® is used only on ferrous metal (cast iron) heads.

Zyglo® uses a spray on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to reveal the cracks. It is

strongly recommended to have your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks, especially if the

engine was known to have overheated and/or leaked or consumed coolant. Contact a local shop for

availability and pricing of these services.

Physical damage is usually very evident. For example, a broken mounting ear from dropping the head

or a bent or broken stud and/or bolt. All of these defects should be fixed or, if unrepairable, the head

should be replaced.

Camshaft and Followers

Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described earlier in this section.

REFINISHING & REPAIRING

Many of the procedures given for refinishing and repairing the cylinder head components must be

performed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the inspected part is not worn, can be performed

yourself inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and effort so far, why risk trying to save a

couple bucks if you might have to do it all over again?

Valves

Any valves that were not replaced should be refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have access

to a valve grinding machine, this should be done by a machine shop. If the valves are in extremely

good condition, as well as the valve seats and guides, they may be lapped in without performing

machine work.

It is a recommended practice to lap the valves even after machine work has been performed and/or

new valves have been purchased. This insures a positive seal between the valve and seat.

LAPPING THE VALVES

Before lapping the valves to the seats, read the rest of the cylinder head section to insure

that any related parts are in acceptable enough condition to continue.

Before any valve seat machining and/or lapping can be performed, the guides must be

within factory recommended specifications.

1. Invert the cylinder head.

2. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.

3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small amount of fine lapping compound to the seat.

4. Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping tool and attach it to the head of the valve.

5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both hands, changing the position of the valve on the valve

seat and lifting the tool often to prevent grooving.

6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is evident on the valve and seat.

7. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all traces of the grinding compound and store the

valve to maintain its lapped location.

WARNING

Do not get the valves out of order after they have been lapped. They

must be put back with the same valve seat with which they were

lapped.

Springs, Retainers and Valve Locks

There is no repair or refinishing possible with the springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found

to be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new (or known good) parts.

Cylinder Head

Most refinishing procedures dealing with the cylinder head must be performed by a machine shop.

Read the sections below and review your inspection data to determine whether or not machining is

necessary.

VALVE GUIDE

If any machining or replacements are made to the valve guides, the seats must be

machined.

Unless the valve guides need machining or replacing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly

clean them of any dirt or oil residue.

There are only two types of valve guides used on automobile engines: the replaceable-type (all

aluminum heads) and the cast-in integral-type (most cast iron heads). There are four recommended

methods for repairing worn guides.

Knurling

Inserts

Reaming oversize

Replacing

Knurling is a process in which metal is displaced and raised, thereby reducing clearance, giving a true

center, and providing oil control. It is the least expensive way of repairing the valve guides. However,

it is not necessarily the best, and in some cases, a knurled valve guide will not stand up for more

than a short time. It requires a special knurlizer and precision reaming tools to obtain proper

clearances. It would not be cost effective to purchase these tools, unless you plan on rebuilding

several of the same cylinder head.

Installing a guide insert involves machining the guide to accept a bronze insert. One style is the coiltype which is installed into a threaded guide. Another is the thin-walled insert where the guide is

reamed oversize to accept a split-sleeve insert. After the insert is installed, a special tool is then run

through the guide to expand the insert, locking it to the guide. The insert is then reamed to the

standard size for proper valve clearance.

Reaming for oversize valves restores normal clearances and provides a true valve seat. Most cast-in

type guides can be reamed to accept an valve with an oversize stem. The cost factor for this can

become quite high as you will need to purchase the reamer and new, oversize stem valves for all

guides which were reamed. Oversizes are generally 0.003 to 0.030 in. (0.076 to 0.762mm), with

0.015 in. (0.381mm) being the most common.

To replace cast-in type valve guides, they must be drilled out, then reamed to accept replacement

guides. This must be done on a fixture which will allow centering and leveling off of the original valve

seat or guide, otherwise a serious guide-to-seat misalignment may occur making it impossible to

properly machine the seat.

Replaceable-type guides are pressed into the cylinder head. A hammer and a stepped drift or punch

may be used to install and remove the guides. Before removing the guides, measure the protrusion

on the spring side of the head and record it for installation. Use the stepped drift to hammer out the

old guide from the combustion chamber side of the head. When installing, determine whether or not

the guide also seals a water jacket in the head, and if it does, use the recommended sealing agent. If

there is no water jacket, grease the valve guide and its bore. Use the stepped drift, and hammer the

new guide into the cylinder head from the spring side of the cylinder head. A stack of washers the

same thickness as the measured protrusion may help the installation process.

VALVE SEATS

Before any valve seat machining can be performed, the guides must be within factory

recommended specifications.

If any machining or replacements were made to the valve guides, the seats must be

machined.

If the seats are in good condition, the valves can be lapped to the seats, and the cylinder head

assembled. See the valves section for instructions on lapping.

If the valve seats are worn, cracked or damaged, they must be serviced by a machine shop. The valve

seat must be perfectly centered to the valve guide, which requires very accurate machining.

CYLINDER HEAD SURFACE

If the cylinder head is warped, it must be machined flat. If the warpage is extremely severe, the head

may need to be replaced. In some instances, it may be possible to straighten a warped head enough

to allow machining. In either case, contact a professional machine shop for service.

Any OHC cylinder head that shows excessive warpage should have the camshaft bearing

journals align bored after the cylinder head has been resurfaced.

WARNING

Failure to align bore the camshaft bearing journals could result in

severe engine damage including but not limited to: valve and piston

damage, connecting rod damage, camshaft and/or crankshaft

breakage.

CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE

Certain cracks can be repaired in both cast iron and aluminum heads. For cast iron, a tapered

threaded insert is installed along the length of the crack. Aluminum can also use the tapered inserts,

however welding is the preferred method. Some physical damage can be repaired through brazing or

welding. Contact a machine shop to get expert advice for your particular dilemma.

ASSEMBLY

The first step for any assembly job is to have a clean area in which to work. Next, thoroughly clean all

of the parts and components that are to be assembled. Finally, place all of the components onto a

suitable work space and, if necessary, arrange the parts to their respective positions.

4.2L, 5.8L, And 7.5L Gas Engines And 7.3L Diesel Engine

1. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert all of the valves into the cylinder head. If possible,

maintain their original locations.

2. If equipped, install any valve spring shims which were removed.

3. If equipped, install the new valve seals, keeping the following in mind:

If the valve seal presses over the guide, lightly lubricate the outer guide surfaces.

If the seal is an O-ring type, it is installed just after compressing the spring but before the valve

locks.

4. Place the valve spring and retainer over the stem.

5. Position the spring compressor tool and compress the spring.

6. Assemble the valve locks to the stem.

7. Relieve the spring pressure slowly and insure that neither valve lock becomes dislodged by the

retainer.

8. Remove the spring compressor tool.

9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 until all of the springs have been installed.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

Once assembled, check the valve clearance and correct as needed

1. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert all of the valves into the cylinder head. If possible,

maintain their original locations.

2. If equipped, install any valve spring shims which were removed.

3. If equipped, install the new valve seals, keeping the following in mind:

If the valve seal presses over the guide, lightly lubricate the outer guide surfaces.

If the seal is an O-ring type, it is installed just after compressing the spring but before the valve

locks.

4. Place the valve spring and retainer over the stem.

5. Position the spring compressor tool and compress the spring.

6. Assemble the valve locks to the stem.

7. Relieve the spring pressure slowly and insure that neither valve lock becomes dislodged by the

retainer.

8. Remove the spring compressor tool.

9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 until all of the springs have been installed.

10. Install the camshaft(s), rockers, shafts and any other components that were removed for

disassembly.

Engine Block

GENERAL INFORMATION

A thorough overhaul or rebuild of an engine block would include replacing the pistons, rings, bearings,

timing belt/chain assembly and oil pump. For OHV engines also include a new Camshaft and Lifters.

The block would then have the cylinders bored and honed oversize (or if using removable cylinder

sleeves, new sleeves installed) and the crankshaft would be cut undersize to provide new wearing

surfaces and perfect clearances. However, your particular engine may not have everything worn out.

What if only the piston rings have worn out and the clearances on everything else are still within

factory specifications? Well, you could just replace the rings and put it back together, but this would

be a very rare example. Chances are, if one component in your engine is worn, other components are

sure to follow, and soon. At the very least, you should always replace the rings, bearings and oil

pump. This is what is commonly called a "freshen up".

Cylinder Ridge Removal

Because the top piston ring does not travel to the very top of the cylinder, a ridge is built up between

the end of the travel and the top of the cylinder bore.

Pushing the piston and connecting rod assembly past the ridge can be difficult, and damage to the

piston ring lands could occur. If the ridge is not removed before installing a new piston or not

removed at all, piston ring breakage and piston damage may occur.

It is always recommended that you remove any cylinder ridges before removing the piston

and connecting rod assemblies. If you know that new pistons are going to be installed and

the engine block will be bored oversize, you may be able to forego this step. However,

some ridges may actually prevent the assemblies from being removed, necessitating its

removal.

There are several different types of ridge reamers on the market, none of which are inexpensive.

Unless a great deal of engine rebuilding is anticipated, borrow or rent a reamer.

1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of its travel.

2. Cover the head of the piston with a rag.

3. Follow the tool manufacturers instructions and cut away the ridge, exercising extreme care to

avoid cutting too deeply.

4. Remove the ridge reamer, the rag and as many of the cuttings as possible. Continue until all of

the cylinder ridges have been removed.

DISASSEMBLY

The engine disassembly instructions following assume that you have the engine mounted on an engine

stand. If not, it is easiest to disassemble the engine on a bench or the floor with it resting on the bell

housing or transmission mounting surface. You must be able to access the connecting rod fasteners

and turn the crankshaft during disassembly. Also, all engine covers (timing, front, side, oil pan,

whatever) should have already been removed. Engines which are seized or locked up may not be able

to be completely disassembled, and a core (salvage yard) engine should be purchased.

4.2L, 5.8L, 7.5L and 7.3L Diesel Engines

If not done during the cylinder head removal, remove the pushrods and lifters, keeping them in order

for assembly. Remove the timing gears and/or timing chain assembly, then remove the oil pump

drive assembly and withdraw the camshaft from the engine block. Remove the oil pick-up and pump

assembly. If equipped, remove any balance or auxiliary shafts. If necessary, remove the cylinder

ridge from the top of the bore. See the cylinder ridge removal procedure earlier in this section.

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

If not done during the cylinder head removal, remove the timing chain/belt and/or gear/sprocket

assembly. Remove the oil pick-up and pump assembly and, if necessary, the pump drive. If

equipped, remove any balance or auxiliary shafts. If necessary, remove the cylinder ridge from the

top of the bore. See the cylinder ridge removal procedure earlier in this section.

All Engines

Rotate the engine over so that the crankshaft is exposed. Use a number punch or scribe and mark

each connecting rod with its respective cylinder number. The cylinder closest to the front of the

engine is always number 1. However, depending on the engine placement, the front of the engine

could either be the flywheel or damper/pulley end. Generally the front of the engine faces the front of

the vehicle. Use a number punch or scribe and also mark the main bearing caps from front to rear

with the front most cap being number 1 (if there are five caps, mark them 1 through 5, front to rear).

Place rubber hose over the connecting rod studs to protect the crankshaft and cylinder

bores from damage

WARNING

Take special care when pushing the connecting rod up from the

crankshaft because the sharp threads of the rod bolts/studs will score

the crankshaft journal. Insure that special plastic caps are installed

over them, or cut two pieces of rubber hose to do the same.

Carefully tap the piston out of the bore using a wooden dowel

Again, rotate the engine, this time to position the number one cylinder bore (head surface) up. Turn

the crankshaft until the number one piston is at the bottom of its travel, this should allow the

maximum access to its connecting rod. Remove the number one connecting rods fasteners and cap

and place two lengths of rubber hose over the rod bolts/studs to protect the crankshaft from damage.

Using a sturdy wooden dowel and a hammer, push the connecting rod up about 1 in. (25mm) from

the crankshaft and remove the upper bearing insert. Continue pushing or tapping the connecting rod

up until the piston rings are out of the cylinder bore. Remove the piston and rod by hand, put the

upper half of the bearing insert back into the rod, install the cap with its bearing insert installed, and

hand-tighten the cap fasteners. If the parts are kept in order in this manner, they will not get lost

and you will be able to tell which bearings came form what cylinder if any problems are discovered

and diagnosis is necessary. Remove all the other piston assemblies in the same manner. On V-style

engines, remove all of the pistons from one bank, then reposition the engine with the other cylinder

bank head surface up, and remove that banks piston assemblies.

The only remaining component in the engine block should now be the crankshaft. Loosen the main

bearing caps evenly until the fasteners can be turned by hand, then remove them and the caps.

Remove the crankshaft from the engine block. Thoroughly clean all of the components.

INSPECTION

Now that the engine block and all of its components are clean, it's time to inspect them for wear

and/or damage. To accurately inspect them, you will need some specialized tools:

Two or three separate micrometers to measure the pistons and crankshaft journals

A dial indicator

Telescoping gauges for the cylinder bores

A rod alignment fixture to check for bent connecting rods

If you do not have access to the proper tools, you may want to bring the components to a shop that

does.

Generally, you shouldn't expect cracks in the engine block or its components unless it was known to

leak, consume or mix engine fluids, it was severely overheated, or there was evidence of bad

bearings and/or crankshaft damage. A visual inspection should be performed on all of the

components, but just because you don't see a crack does not mean it is not there. Some more

reliable methods for inspecting for cracks include Magnaflux®, a magnetic process or Zyglo®, a dye

penetrant. Magnaflux® is used only on ferrous metal (cast iron). Zyglo® uses a spray on fluorescent

mixture along with a black light to reveal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have your engine

block checked professionally for cracks, especially if the engine was known to have overheated

and/or leaked or consumed coolant. Contact a local shop for availability and pricing of these services.

Engine Block

ENGINE BLOCK BEARING ALIGNMENT

Remove the main bearing caps and, if still installed, the main bearing inserts. Inspect all of the main

bearing saddles and caps for damage, burrs or high spots. If damage is found, and it is caused from a

spun main bearing, the block will need to be align-bored or, if severe enough, replacement. Any burrs

or high spots should be carefully removed with a metal file.

Place a straightedge on the bearing saddles, in the engine block, along the centerline of the

crankshaft. If any clearance exists between the straightedge and the saddles, the block must be

align-bored.

Align-boring consists of machining the main bearing saddles and caps by means of a flycutter that

runs through the bearing saddles.

DECK FLATNESS

The top of the engine block where the cylinder head mounts is called the deck. Insure that the deck

surface is clean of dirt, carbon deposits and old gasket material. Place a straightedge across the

surface of the deck along its centerline and, using feeler gauges, check the clearance along several

points. Repeat the checking procedure with the straightedge placed along both diagonals of the deck

surface. If the reading exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. (15.2cm) span, or 0.006 in.

(0.152mm) over the total length of the deck, it must be machined.

CYLINDER BORES

The cylinder bores house the pistons and are slightly larger than the pistons themselves. A common

piston-to-bore clearance is 0.0015-0.0025 in. (0.0381mm-0.0635mm). Inspect and measure the

cylinder bores. The bore should be checked for out-of-roundness, taper and size. The results of this

inspection will determine whether the cylinder can be used in its existing size and condition, or a

rebore to the next oversize is required (or in the case of removable sleeves, have replacements

installed).

Use a telescoping gauge to measure the cylinder bore diameter—take several readings

within the same bore

The amount of cylinder wall wear is always greater at the top of the cylinder than at the bottom. This

wear is known as taper. Any cylinder that has a taper of 0.0012 in. (0.305mm) or more, must be

rebored. Measurements are taken at a number of positions in each cylinder: at the top, middle and

bottom and at two points at each position; that is, at a point 90 degrees from the crankshaft

centerline, as well as a point parallel to the crankshaft centerline. The measurements are made with

either a special dial indicator or a telescopic gauge and micrometer. If the necessary precision tools

to check the bore are not available, take the block to a machine shop and have them mike it. Also if

you don't have the tools to check the cylinder bores, chances are you will not have the necessary

devices to check the pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft. Take these components with you and

save yourself an extra trip.

For our procedures, we will use a telescopic gauge and a micrometer. You will need one of each, with

a measuring range which covers your cylinder bore size.

1. Position the telescopic gauge in the cylinder bore, loosen the gauges lock and allow it to expand.

Your first two readings will be at the top of the cylinder bore, then proceed to the middle

and finally the bottom, making a total of six measurements.

2. Hold the gauge square in the bore, 90 degrees from the crankshaft centerline, and gently tighten

the lock. Tilt the gauge back to remove it from the bore.

3. Measure the gauge with the micrometer and record the reading.

4. Again, hold the gauge square in the bore, this time parallel to the crankshaft centerline, and

gently tighten the lock. Again, you will tilt the gauge back to remove it from the bore.

5. Measure the gauge with the micrometer and record this reading. The difference between these

two readings is the out-of-round measurement of the cylinder.

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5, each time going to the next lower position, until you reach the bottom

of the cylinder. Then go to the next cylinder, and continue until all of the cylinders have been

measured.

The difference between these measurements will tell you all about the wear in your cylinders. The

measurements which were taken 90 degrees from the crankshaft centerline will always reflect the

most wear. That is because at this position is where the engine power presses the piston against the

cylinder bore the hardest. This is known as thrust wear. Take your top, 90 degree measurement and

compare it to your bottom, 90 degree measurement. The difference between them is the taper. When

you measure your pistons, you will compare these readings to your piston sizes and determine

piston-to-wall clearance.

Crankshaft

Inspect the crankshaft for visible signs of wear or damage. All of the journals should be perfectly

round and smooth. Slight scores are normal for a used crankshaft, but you should hardly feel them

with your fingernail. When measuring the crankshaft with a micrometer, you will take readings at the

front and rear of each journal, then turn the micrometer 90 degrees and take two more readings,

front and rear. The difference between the front-to-rear readings is the journal taper and the first-to-

90 degree reading is the out-of-round measurement. Generally, there should be no taper or out-ofroundness found, however, up to 0.0005 in. (0.0127mm) for either can be overlooked. Also, the

readings should fall within the factory specifications for journal diameters.

If the crankshaft journals fall within specifications, it is recommended that it be polished before being

returned to service. Polishing the crankshaft insures that any minor burrs or high spots are

smoothed, thereby reducing the chance of scoring the new bearings.

Pistons and Connecting Rods

PISTONS

The piston should be visually inspected for any signs of cracking or burning (caused by hot spots or

detonation), and scuffing or excessive wear on the skirts. The wrist pin attaches the piston to the

connecting rod. The piston should move freely on the wrist pin, both sliding and pivoting. Grasp the

connecting rod securely, or mount it in a vise, and try to rock the piston back and forth along the

centerline of the wrist pin. There should not be any excessive play evident between the piston and

the pin. If there are C-clips retaining the pin in the piston then you have wrist pin bushings in the

rods. There should not be any excessive play between the wrist pin and the rod bushing. Normal

clearance for the wrist pin is approx. 0.001-0.002 in. (0.025mm-0.051mm).

Measure the piston's outer diameter, perpendicular to the wrist pin, with a micrometer

Use a micrometer and measure the diameter of the piston, perpendicular to the wrist pin, on the skirt.

Compare the reading to its original cylinder measurement obtained earlier. The difference between

the two readings is the piston-to-wall clearance. If the clearance is within specifications, the piston

may be used as is. If the piston is out of specification, but the bore is not, you will need a new piston.

If both are out of specification, you will need the cylinder rebored and oversize pistons installed.

Generally if two or more pistons/bores are out of specification, it is best to rebore the entire block

and purchase a complete set of oversize pistons.

CONNECTING ROD

You should have the connecting rod checked for straightness at a machine shop. If the connecting rod

is bent, it will unevenly wear the bearing and piston, as well as place greater stress on these

components. Any bent or twisted connecting rods must be replaced. If the rods are straight and the

wrist pin clearance is within specifications, then only the bearing end of the rod need be checked.

Place the connecting rod into a vice, with the bearing inserts in place, install the cap to the rod and

torque the fasteners to specifications. Use a telescoping gauge and carefully measure the inside

diameter of the bearings. Compare this reading to the rods original crankshaft journal diameter

measurement. The difference is the oil clearance. If the oil clearance is not within specifications,

install new bearings in the rod and take another measurement. If the clearance is still out of

specifications, and the crankshaft is not, the rod will need to be reconditioned by a machine shop.

You can also use Plastigage® to check the bearing clearances. The assembling section has

complete instructions on its use.

Camshaft

Inspect the Camshaft and Lifters/followers as described earlier in this section.

Bearings

All of the engine bearings should be visually inspected for wear and/or damage. The bearing should

look evenly worn all around with no deep scores or pits. If the bearing is severely worn, scored,

pitted or heat blued, then the bearing, and the components that use it, should be brought to a

machine shop for inspection. Full-circle bearings (used on most camshafts, auxiliary shafts, balance

shafts, etc.) require specialized tools for removal and installation, and should be brought to a

machine shop for service.

Oil Pump

The oil pump is responsible for providing constant lubrication to the whole engine and so it

is recommended that a new oil pump be installed when rebuilding the engine.

Completely disassemble the oil pump and thoroughly clean all of the components. Inspect the oil

pump gears and housing for wear and/or damage. Insure that the pressure relief valve operates

properly and there is no binding or sticking due to varnish or debris. If all of the parts are in proper

working condition, lubricate the gears and relief valve, and assemble the pump.

REFINISHING

Almost all engine block refinishing must be performed by a machine shop. If the cylinders are not to

be rebored, then the cylinder glaze can be removed with a ball hone. When removing cylinder glaze

with a ball hone, use a light or penetrating type oil to lubricate the hone. Do not allow the hone to

run dry as this may cause excessive scoring of the cylinder bores and wear on the hone. If new

pistons are required, they will need to be installed to the connecting rods. This should be performed

by a machine shop as the pistons must be installed in the correct relationship to the rod or engine

damage can occur.

Use a ball type cylinder hone to remove any glaze and provide a new surface for seating

the piston rings

Pistons and Connecting Rods

Only pistons with the wrist pin retained by C-clips are serviceable by the home-mechanic. Press fit

pistons require special presses and/or heaters to remove/install the connecting rod and should only

be performed by a machine shop.

All pistons will have a mark indicating the direction to the front of the engine and the must be

installed into the engine in that manner. Usually it is a notch or arrow on the top of the piston, or it

may be the letter F cast or stamped into the piston.

Most pistons are marked to indicate positioning in the engine (usually a mark means the

side facing the front)

C-CLIP TYPE PISTONS

1. Note the location of the forward mark on the piston and mark the connecting rod in relation.

2. Remove the C-clips from the piston and withdraw the wrist pin.

Varnish build-up or C-clip groove burrs may increase the difficulty of removing the wrist

pin. If necessary, use a punch or drift to carefully tap the wrist pin out.

3. Insure that the wrist pin bushing in the connecting rod is usable, and lubricate it with assembly

lube.

4. Remove the wrist pin from the new piston and lubricate the pin bores on the piston.

5. Align the forward marks on the piston and the connecting rod and install the wrist pin.

6. The new C-clips will have a flat and a rounded side to them. Install both C-clips with the flat side

facing out.

7. Repeat all of the steps for each piston being replaced.

ASSEMBLY

Before you begin assembling the engine, first give yourself a clean, dirt free work area. Next, clean

every engine component again. The key to a good assembly is cleanliness.

Mount the engine block into the engine stand and wash it one last time using water and detergent

(dishwashing detergent works well). While washing it, scrub the cylinder bores with a soft bristle

brush and thoroughly clean all of the oil passages. Completely dry the engine and spray the entire

assembly down with an anti-rust solution such as WD-40® or similar product. Take a clean lint-free

rag and wipe up any excess anti-rust solution from the bores, bearing saddles, etc. Repeat the final

cleaning process on the crankshaft. Replace any freeze or oil galley plugs which were removed during

disassembly.

Crankshaft

1. Remove the main bearing inserts from the block and bearing caps.

2. If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refinished to a definite undersize, install the

correct undersize bearing. Be sure that the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Foreign

material under inserts will distort bearing and cause failure.

3. Place the upper main bearing inserts in bores with tang in slot.

The oil holes in the bearing inserts must be aligned with the oil holes in the cylinder block.

4. Install the lower main bearing inserts in bearing caps.

5. Clean the mating surfaces of block and rear main bearing cap.

6. Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage bearing surfaces.

7. Check the clearance of each main bearing by using the following procedure:

1. Place a piece of Plastigage® or its equivalent, on bearing

surface across full width of bearing cap and about

1

/

4

in.

off center.

Apply a strip of gauging material to the bearing journal, then install and torque the cap

2. Install cap and tighten bolts to specifications. Do not turn crankshaft while Plastigage® is in

place.

3. Remove the cap. Using the supplied Plastigage® scale, check width of Plastigage® at widest

point to get maximum clearance. Difference between readings is taper of journal.

After the cap is removed again, use the scale supplied with the gauging material to check

the clearance

4. If clearance exceeds specified limits, try a 0.001 in. or 0.002 in. undersize bearing in combination

with the standard bearing. Bearing clearance must be within specified limits. If standard and

0.002 in. undersize bearing does not bring clearance within desired limits, refinish crankshaft

journal, then install undersize bearings.

8. Install the rear main seal.

9. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings.

Install the rear main bearing cap. Install all bearing caps except the thrust bearing cap. Be sure

that main bearing caps are installed in original locations. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to

specifications.

10. Install the thrust bearing cap with bolts finger-tight.

11. Pry the crankshaft forward against the thrust surface of upper half of bearing.

12. Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the thrust bearing cap to the rear. This aligns the thrust

surfaces of both halves of the bearing.

13. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to specifications.

14. Measure the crankshaft end-play as follows:

A dial gauge may be used to check crankshaft end-play

1. Mount a dial gauge to the engine block and position the tip of the gauge to read from the

crankshaft end.

2. Carefully pry the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine and hold it there while you zero the

gauge.

Carefully pry the crankshaft back and forth while reading the dial gauge for end-play

3. Carefully pry the crankshaft toward the front of the engine and read the gauge.

4. Confirm that the reading is within specifications. If not, install a new thrust bearing and repeat the

procedure. If the reading is still out of specifications with a new bearing, have a machine shop

inspect the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft, and if possible, repair it.

15. Rotate the crankshaft so as to position the first rod journal to the bottom of its stroke.

Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the

cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the

connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:

1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.

2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.

3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring

wear is not encountered.

4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore

so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use

caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.

5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler

gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than

specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified

limits, try an oversize ring set.

Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge

6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the

ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the

entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner

portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced.

The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert

2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they

were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side

when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or

cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered

to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front

of the engine.

3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps.

Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to

the piston

4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring

and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to

help reduce the chance of breakage.

Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle

of a hammer

5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston

ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into

the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is

only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft

bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.

6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing

journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.

7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and

bearings.

8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push

the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft

journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals

and damage them.

9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod

side clearance on each crankshaft journal.

10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.

11. On the 4.2L and 6.8L engines install the balance shaft assembly.

4.2L, 5.8L, 7.5L Gas Engines and 7.3L Diesel Engine

CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.

2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.

3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.

2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L Engines

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.

2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components

Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly

and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle.

Engine Start-up and Break-In

STARTING THE ENGINE

Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double

check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and

properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with

the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of

coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.

2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure

within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle off.

WARNING

Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil

pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check

for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there

is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the

system.

3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).

4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to

the touch).

5. At this point you can perform any necessary checks or adjustments, such as checking the

ignition timing.

6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

BREAKING IT IN

Make the first miles on the new engine, easy ones. Vary the speed but do not accelerate hard. Most

importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained high speeds until at least 100 miles. Check

the engine oil and coolant levels frequently. Expect the engine to use a little oil until the rings seat.

Change the oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 miles, then every 3000 miles past that.

KEEP IT MAINTAINED

Now that you have just gone through all of that hard work, keep yourself from doing it all over again

by thoroughly maintaining it. Not that you may not have maintained it before, heck you could have

had one to two hundred thousand miles on it before doing this. However, you may have bought the

vehicle used, and the previous owner did not keep up on maintenance. Which is why you just went

through all of that hard work. See?

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Specification Charts

4.2L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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4.6L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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4.6L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.4L SOHC and DOHC Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.4L DOHC Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.4L DOHC and 5.8L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.8L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.8L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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5.8L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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6.8L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.3L Diesel Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.3L Diesel Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.3L Diesel Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.5L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.5L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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7.5L Engine Mechanical Specifications

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Torque Specifications

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Torque Specifications

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Torque Specifications

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Using A Vacuum Gauge

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Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems

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Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems

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Troubleshooting Engine Mechanical Problems

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Troubleshooting Engine Performance

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Troubleshooting Engine Performance

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Troubleshooting Engine Performance

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Troubleshooting the Serpentine Drive Belt

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Troubleshooting the Serpentine Drive Belt (Cont.)

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Troubleshooting the Cooling System

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Troubleshooting the Cooling System (Cont.)

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Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Understanding and Troubleshooting Electrical Systems

Basic Electrical Theory

For any 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system to operate, the electricity must travel in a

complete circuit. This simply means that current (power) from the positive (+) terminal of the battery

must eventually return to the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Along the way, this current will

travel through wires, fuses, switches and components. If, for any reason, the flow of current through

the circuit is interrupted, the component fed by that circuit will cease to function properly.

Perhaps the easiest way to visualize a circuit is to think of connecting a light bulb (with two wires

attached to it) to the battery—one wire attached to the negative (-) terminal of the battery and the

other wire to the positive (+) terminal. With the two wires touching the battery terminals, the circuit

would be complete and the light bulb would illuminate. Electricity would follow a path from the

battery to the bulb and back to the battery. It's easy to see that with longer wires on our light bulb, it

could be mounted anywhere. Further, one wire could be fitted with a switch so that the light could be

turned on and off.

This example illustrates a simple circuit. When the switch is closed, power from the

positive (+) battery terminal flows through the fuse and the switch, and then to the light

bulb. The light illuminates and the circuit is completed through the ground wire back to

the negative (-) battery terminal. In reality, the two ground points shown in the

illustration are attached to the metal frame of the vehicle, which completes the circuit

back to the battery

Click to enlarge

The normal automotive circuit differs from this simple example in two ways. First, instead of having a

return wire from the bulb to the battery, the current travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since

the negative (-) battery cable is attached to the frame (made of electrically conductive metal), the

frame of the vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete the circuit. Secondly, most automotive

circuits contain multiple components which receive power from a single circuit. This lessens the

amount of wire needed to power components on the vehicle.

HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK: THE WATER ANALOGY

Electricity is the flow of electrons—the subatomic particles that constitute the outer shell of an atom.

Electrons spin in an orbit around the center core of an atom. The center core is comprised of protons

(positive charge) and neutrons (neutral charge). Electrons have a negative charge and balance out

the positive charge of the protons. When an outside force causes the number of electrons to

unbalance the charge of the protons, the electrons will split off the atom and look for another atom to

balance out. If this imbalance is kept up, electrons will continue to move and an electrical flow will

exist.

Many people have been taught electrical theory using an analogy with water. In a comparison with

water flowing through a pipe, the electrons would be the water and the wire is the pipe.

The flow of electricity can be measured much like the flow of water through a pipe. The unit of

measurement used is amperes, frequently abbreviated as amps (a). You can compare amperage to

the volume of water flowing through a pipe. When connected to a circuit, an ammeter will measure

the actual amount of current flowing through the circuit. When relatively few electrons flow through a

circuit, the amperage is low. When many electrons flow, the amperage is high.

Water pressure is measured in units such as pounds per square inch (psi); The electrical pressure is

measured in units called volts (v). When a voltmeter is connected to a circuit, it is measuring the

electrical pressure.

The actual flow of electricity depends not only on voltage and amperage, but also on the resistance of

the circuit. The higher the resistance, the higher the force necessary to push the current through the

circuit. The standard unit for measuring resistance is an ohm. Resistance in a circuit varies depending

on the amount and type of components used in the circuit. The main factors which determine

resistance are:

Material—some materials have more resistance than others. Those with high resistance are said

to be insulators. Rubber materials (or rubber-like plastics) are some of the most common

insulators used in vehicles as they have a very high resistance to electricity. Very low resistance

materials are said to be conductors. Copper wire is among the best conductors. Silver is actually

a superior conductor to copper and is used in some relay contacts, but its high cost prohibits its

use as common wiring. Most automotive wiring is made of copper.

Size—the larger the wire size being used, the less resistance the wire will have. This is why

components which use large amounts of electricity usually have large wires supplying current to

them.

Length—for a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire, the greater the resistance. The shorter

the wire, the less the resistance. When determining the proper wire for a circuit, both size and

length must be considered to design a circuit that can handle the current needs of the

component.

Temperature—with many materials, the higher the temperature, the greater the resistance

(positive temperature coefficient). Some materials exhibit the opposite trait of lower resistance

with higher temperatures (negative temperature coefficient). These principles are used in many

of the sensors on the engine.

OHM'S LAW

There is a direct relationship between current, voltage and resistance. The relationship between

current, voltage and resistance can be summed up by a statement known as Ohm's law. Voltage (E)

is equal to amperage (I) times resistance (R): E=I x R Other forms of the formula are R=E/I and

I=E/R

In each of these formulas, E is the voltage in volts, I is the current in amps and R is the resistance in

ohms. The basic point to remember is that as the resistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of

current that flows in the circuit will go down, if voltage remains the same.

The amount of work that the electricity can perform is expressed as power. The unit of power is the

watt (w). The relationship between power, voltage and current is expressed as: Power (w) is equal to

amperage (I) times voltage (E): W=I x E This is only true for direct current (DC) circuits; The

alternating current formula is a tad different, but since the electrical circuits in most vehicles are DC

type, we need not get into AC circuit theory.

Electrical Components

POWER SOURCE

Power is supplied to the vehicle by two devices: The battery and the alternator. The battery supplies

electrical power during starting or during periods when the current demand of the vehicle's electrical

system exceeds the output capacity of the alternator. The alternator supplies electrical current when

the engine is running. Just not does the alternator supply the current needs of the vehicle, but it

recharges the battery.

The Battery

In most modern vehicles, the battery is a lead/acid electrochemical device consisting of six 2 volt

subsections (cells) connected in series, so that the unit is capable of producing approximately 12

volts of electrical pressure. Each subsection consists of a series of positive and negative plates held a

short distance apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and water.

The two types of plates are of dissimilar metals. This sets up a chemical reaction, and it is this

reaction which produces current flow from the battery when its positive and negative terminals are

connected to an electrical load. The power removed from the battery is replaced by the alternator,

restoring the battery to its original chemical state.

The Alternator

On some vehicles there isn't an alternator, but a generator. The difference is that an alternator

supplies alternating current which is then changed to direct current for use on the vehicle, while a

generator produces direct current. Alternators tend to be more efficient and that is why they are

used.

Alternators and generators are devices that consist of coils of wires wound together making big

electromagnets. One group of coils spins within another set and the interaction of the magnetic fields

causes a current to flow. This current is then drawn off the coils and fed into the vehicles electrical

system.

GROUND

Two types of grounds are used in automotive electric circuits. Direct ground components are grounded

to the frame through their mounting points. All other components use some sort of ground wire which

is attached to the frame or chassis of the vehicle. The electrical current runs through the chassis of

the vehicle and returns to the battery through the ground (-) cable; if you look, you'll see that the

battery ground cable connects between the battery and the frame or chassis of the vehicle.

It should be noted that a good percentage of electrical problems can be traced to bad

grounds.

PROTECTIVE DEVICES

It is possible for large surges of current to pass through the electrical system of your vehicle. If this

surge of current were to reach the load in the circuit, the surge could burn it out or severely damage

it. It can also overload the wiring, causing the harness to get hot and melt the insulation. To prevent

this, fuses, circuit breakers and/or fusible links are connected into the supply wires of the electrical

system. These items are nothing more than a built-in weak spot in the system. When an abnormal

amount of current flows through the system, these protective devices work as follows to protect the

circuit:

Fuse—when an excessive electrical current passes through a fuse, the fuse "blows" (the

conductor melts) and opens the circuit, preventing the passage of current.

Most vehicles use one or more fuse panels. This one is located on the driver's side kick

panel

Circuit Breaker—a circuit breaker is basically a self-repairing fuse. It will open the circuit in the

same fashion as a fuse, but when the surge subsides, the circuit breaker can be reset and does

not need replacement.

Fusible Link—a fusible link (fuse link or main link) is a short length of special, high temperature

insulated wire that acts as a fuse. When an excessive electrical current passes through a fusible

link, the thin gauge wire inside the link melts, creating an intentional open to protect the circuit.

To repair the circuit, the link must be replaced. Some newer type fusible links are housed in

plug-in modules, which are simply replaced like a fuse, while older type fusible links must be cut

and spliced if they melt. Since this link is very early in the electrical path, it's the first place to

look if nothing on the vehicle works, yet the battery seems to be charged and is properly

connected.

CAUTION

Always replace fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links with identically

rated components. Under no circumstances should a component of

higher or lower amperage rating be substituted.

SWITCHES & RELAYS

Switches are used in electrical circuits to control the passage of current. The most common use is to

open and close circuits between the battery and the various electric devices in the system. Switches

are rated according to the amount of amperage they can handle. If a sufficient amperage rated

switch is not used in a circuit, the switch could overload and cause damage.

The underhood fuse and relay panel usually contains fuses, relays, flashers and fusible

links

Click to enlarge

Some electrical components which require a large amount of current to operate use a special switch

called a relay. Since these circuits carry a large amount of current, the thickness of the wire in the

circuit is also greater. If this large wire were connected from the load to the control switch, the switch

would have to carry the high amperage load and the fairing or dash would be twice as large to

accommodate the increased size of the wiring harness. To prevent these problems, a relay is used.

Relays are composed of a coil and a set of contacts. When the coil has a current passed though it, a

magnetic field is formed and this field causes the contacts to move together, completing the circuit.

Most relays are normally open, preventing current from passing through the circuit, but they can take

any electrical form depending on the job they are intended to do. Relays can be considered "remote

control switches." They allow a smaller current to operate devices that require higher amperages.

When a small current operates the coil, a larger current is allowed to pass by the contacts. Some

common circuits which may use relays are the horn, headlights, starter, electric fuel pump and other

high draw circuits.

Relays are composed of a coil and a switch. These two components are linked together

so that when one operates, the other operates at the same time. The large wires in the

circuit are connected from the battery to one side of the relay switch (B+) and from the

opposite side of the relay switch to the load (component). Smaller wires are connected

from the relay coil to the control switch for the circuit and from the opposite side of the

relay coil to ground

Click to enlarge

LOAD

Every electrical circuit must include a "load" (something to use the electricity coming from the

source). Without this load, the battery would attempt to deliver its entire power supply from one pole

to another. This is called a "short circuit." All this electricity would take a short cut to ground and

cause a great amount of damage to other components in the circuit by developing a tremendous

amount of heat. This condition could develop sufficient heat to melt the insulation on all the

surrounding wires and reduce a multiple wire cable to a lump of plastic and copper.

WIRING & HARNESSES

The average vehicle contains meters and meters of wiring, with hundreds of individual connections. To

protect the many wires from damage and to keep them from becoming a confusing tangle, they are

organized into bundles, enclosed in plastic or taped together and called wiring harnesses. Different

harnesses serve different parts of the vehicle. Individual wires are color coded to help trace them

through a harness where sections are hidden from view.

Automotive wiring or circuit conductors can be either single strand wire, multi-strand wire or printed

circuitry. Single strand wire has a solid metal core and is usually used inside such components as

alternators, motors, relays and other devices. Multi-strand wire has a core made of many small

strands of wire twisted together into a single conductor. Most of the wiring in an automotive electrical

system is made up of multi-strand wire, either as a single conductor or grouped together in a

harness. All wiring is color coded on the insulator, either as a solid color or as a colored wire with an

identification stripe. A printed circuit is a thin film of copper or other conductor that is printed on an

insulator backing. Occasionally, a printed circuit is sandwiched between two sheets of plastic for more

protection and flexibility. A complete printed circuit, consisting of conductors, insulating material and

connectors for lamps or other components is called a printed circuit board. Printed circuitry is used in

place of individual wires or harnesses in places where space is limited, such as behind instrument

panels.

Since automotive electrical systems are very sensitive to changes in resistance, the selection of

properly sized wires is critical when systems are repaired. A loose or corroded connection or a

replacement wire that is too small for the circuit will add extra resistance and an additional voltage

drop to the circuit.

The wire gauge number is an expression of the cross-section area of the conductor. Vehicles from

countries that use the metric system will typically describe the wire size as its cross-sectional area in

square millimeters. In this method, the larger the wire, the greater the number. Another common

system for expressing wire size is the American Wire Gauge (AWG) system. As gauge number

increases, area decreases and the wire becomes smaller. An 18 gauge wire is smaller than a 4 gauge

wire. A wire with a higher gauge number will carry less current than a wire with a lower gauge

number. Gauge wire size refers to the size of the strands of the conductor, not the size of the

complete wire with insulator. It is possible, therefore, to have two wires of the same gauge with

different diameters because one may have thicker insulation than the other.

It is essential to understand how a circuit works before trying to figure out why it doesn't. An electrical

schematic shows the electrical current paths when a circuit is operating properly. Schematics break

the entire electrical system down into individual circuits. In a schematic, usually no attempt is made

to represent wiring and components as they physically appear on the vehicle; switches and other

components are shown as simply as possible. Face views of harness connectors show the cavity or

terminal locations in all multi-pin connectors to help locate test points.

CONNECTORS

Three types of connectors are commonly used in automotive applications—weatherproof, molded and

hard shell.

Hard shell (left) and weatherproof (right) connectors have replaceable terminals

Weatherproof—these connectors are most commonly used where the connector is exposed to

the elements. Terminals are protected against moisture and dirt by sealing rings which provide a

weathertight seal. All repairs require the use of a special terminal and the tool required to service

it. Unlike standard blade type terminals, these weatherproof terminals cannot be straightened

once they are bent. Make certain that the connectors are properly seated and all of the sealing

rings are in place when connecting leads.

Molded—these connectors require complete replacement of the connector if found to be

defective. This means splicing a new connector assembly into the harness. All splices should be

soldered to insure proper contact. Use care when probing the connections or replacing terminals

in them, as it is possible to create a short circuit between opposite terminals. If this happens to

the wrong terminal pair, it is possible to damage certain components. Always use jumper wires

between connectors for circuit checking and NEVER probe through weatherproof seals.

Hard Shell—unlike molded connectors, the terminal contacts in hard-shell connectors can be

replaced. Replacement usually involves the use of a special terminal removal tool that depresses

the locking tangs (barbs) on the connector terminal and allows the connector to be removed

from the rear of the shell. The connector shell should be replaced if it shows any evidence of

burning, melting, cracks, or breaks. Replace individual terminals that are burnt, corroded,

distorted or loose.

Weatherproof connectors are most commonly used in the engine compartment or where

the connector is exposed to the elements

Test Equipment

Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an electrical circuit is most times accomplished by the use of

special test equipment. The following describes different types of commonly used test equipment and

briefly explains how to use them in diagnosis. In addition to the information covered below, the tool

manufacturer's instructions booklet (provided with the tester) should be read and clearly understood

before attempting any test procedures.

JUMPER WIRES

CAUTION

Never use jumper wires made from a thinner gauge wire than the

circuit being tested. If the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it may

overheat and possibly melt. Never use jumpers to bypass high

resistance loads in a circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, creates

a short circuit. This may, in turn, cause damage and fire. Jumper

wires should only be used to bypass lengths of wire or to simulate

switches.

Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable, pieces of test equipment. They are basically test

wires which are used to bypass sections of a circuit. Although jumper wires can be purchased, they

are usually fabricated from lengths of standard automotive wire and whatever type of connector

(alligator clip, spade connector or pin connector) that is required for the particular application being

tested. In cramped, hard-to-reach areas, it is advisable to have insulated boots over the jumper wire

terminals in order to prevent accidental grounding. It is also advisable to include a standard

automotive fuse in any jumper wire. This is commonly referred to as a "fused jumper". By inserting

an in-line fuse holder between a set of test leads, a fused jumper wire can be used for bypassing

open circuits. Use a 5 amp fuse to provide protection against voltage spikes.

Jumper wires are used primarily to locate open electrical circuits, on either the ground (-) side of the

circuit or on the power (+) side. If an electrical component fails to operate, connect the jumper wire

between the component and a good ground. If the component operates only with the jumper

installed, the ground circuit is open. If the ground circuit is good, but the component does not

operate, the circuit between the power feed and component may be open. By moving the jumper

wire successively back from the component toward the power source, you can isolate the area of the

circuit where the open is located. When the component stops functioning, or the power is cut off, the

open is in the segment of wire between the jumper and the point previously tested.

You can sometimes connect the jumper wire directly from the battery to the "hot" terminal of the

component, but first make sure the component uses 12 volts in operation. Some electrical

components, such as fuel injectors or sensors, are designed to operate on about 4 to 5 volts, and

running 12 volts directly to these components will cause damage.

TEST LIGHTS

A 12 volt test light is used to detect the presence of voltage in a circuit

The test light is used to check circuits and components while electrical current is flowing through

them. It is used for voltage and ground tests. To use a 12 volt test light, connect the ground clip to a

good ground and probe wherever necessary with the pick. The test light will illuminate when voltage

is detected. This does not necessarily mean that 12 volts (or any particular amount of voltage) is

present; it only means that some voltage is present. It is advisable before using the test light to

touch its ground clip and probe across the battery posts or terminals to make sure the light is

operating properly.

WARNING

Do not use a test light to probe electronic ignition, spark plug or coil

wires. Never use a pick-type test light to probe wiring on computer

controlled systems unless specifically instructed to do so. Any wire

insulation that is pierced by the test light probe should be taped and

sealed with silicone after testing.

Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is used to isolate opens in circuits. But, whereas the

jumper wire is used to bypass the open to operate the load, the 12 volt test light is used to locate the

presence of voltage in a circuit. If the test light illuminates, there is power up to that point in the

circuit; if the test light does not illuminate, there is an open circuit (no power). Move the test light in

successive steps back toward the power source until the light in the handle illuminates. The open is

between the probe and a point which was previously probed.

The self-powered test light is similar in design to the 12 volt test light, but contains a 1.5 volt penlight

battery in the handle. It is most often used in place of a multimeter to check for open or short circuits

when power is isolated from the circuit (continuity test).

The battery in a self-powered test light does not provide much current. A weak battery may not

provide enough power to illuminate the test light even when a complete circuit is made (especially if

there is high resistance in the circuit). Always make sure that the test battery is strong. To check the

battery, briefly touch the ground clip to the probe; if the light glows brightly, the battery is strong

enough for testing.

A self-powered test light should not be used on any computer controlled system or

component. The small amount of electricity transmitted by the test light is enough to

damage many electronic automotive components.

MULTIMETERS

Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting electrical problems. They can be

purchased in either analog or digital form and have a price range to suit any budget. A multimeter is

a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter (along with other features) combined into one instrument. It is

often used when testing solid state circuits because of its high input impedance (usually 10

megaohms or more). A brief description of the multimeter main test functions follows:

Voltmeter—the voltmeter is used to measure voltage at any point in a circuit, or to measure the

voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters usually have various scales and a selector

switch to allow the reading of different voltage ranges. The voltmeter has a positive and a

negative lead. To avoid damage to the meter, always connect the negative lead to the negative (-)

side of the circuit (to ground or nearest the ground side of the circuit) and connect the positive

lead to the positive (+) side of the circuit (to the power source or the nearest power source). Note

that the negative voltmeter lead will always be black and that the positive voltmeter will always

be some color other than black (usually red).

Ohmmeter—the ohmmeter is designed to read resistance (measured in ohms) in a circuit or

component. Most ohmmeters will have a selector switch which permits the measurement of

different ranges of resistance (usually the selector switch allows the multiplication of the meter

reading by 10, 100, 1,000 and 10,000). Some ohmmeters are "auto-ranging" which means the

meter itself will determine which scale to use. Since the meters are powered by an internal

battery, the ohmmeter can be used like a self-powered test light. When the ohmmeter is

connected, current from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit or component being tested.

Since the ohmmeter's internal resistance and voltage are known values, the amount of current

flow through the meter depends on the resistance of the circuit or component being tested. The

ohmmeter can also be used to perform a continuity test for suspected open circuits. In using the

meter for making continuity checks, do not be concerned with the actual resistance readings.

Zero resistance, or any ohm reading, indicates continuity in the circuit. Infinite resistance

indicates an opening in the circuit. A high resistance reading where there should be none

indicates a problem in the circuit. Checks for short circuits are made in the same manner as

checks for open circuits, except that the circuit must be isolated from both power and normal

ground. Infinite resistance indicates no continuity, while zero resistance indicates a dead short.

WARNING

Never use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of a component or

wire while there is voltage applied to the circuit.

Ammeter—an ammeter measures the amount of current flowing through a circuit in units called

amperes or amps. At normal operating voltage, most circuits have a characteristic amount of

amperes, called "current draw" which can be measured using an ammeter. By referring to a

specified current draw rating, then measuring the amperes and comparing the two values, one

can determine what is happening within the circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit, for

example, will not allow any current to flow, so the ammeter reading will be zero. A damaged

component or circuit will have an increased current draw, so the reading will be high. The

ammeter is always connected in series with the circuit being tested. All of the current that

normally flows through the circuit must also flow through the ammeter; if there is any other path

for the current to follow, the ammeter reading will not be accurate. The ammeter itself has very

little resistance to current flow and, therefore, will not affect the circuit, but it will measure

current draw only when the circuit is closed and electricity is flowing. Excessive current draw

can blow fuses and drain the battery, while a reduced current draw can cause motors to run

slowly, lights to dim and other components to not operate properly.

Troubleshooting Electrical Systems

When diagnosing a specific problem, organized troubleshooting is a must. The complexity of a modern

automotive vehicle demands that you approach any problem in a logical, organized manner. There

are certain troubleshooting techniques, however, which are standard:

Establish when the problem occurs. Does the problem appear only under certain conditions?

Were there any noises, odors or other unusual symptoms? Isolate the problem area. To do this,

make some simple tests and observations, then eliminate the systems that are working properly.

Check for obvious problems, such as broken wires and loose or dirty connections. Always check

the obvious before assuming something complicated is the cause.

Test for problems systematically to determine the cause once the problem area is isolated. Are all

the components functioning properly? Is there power going to electrical switches and motors.

Performing careful, systematic checks will often turn up most causes on the first inspection,

without wasting time checking components that have little or no relationship to the problem.

Test all repairs after the work is done to make sure that the problem is fixed. Some causes can be

traced to more than one component, so a careful verification of repair work is important in order

to pick up additional malfunctions that may cause a problem to reappear or a different problem

to arise. A blown fuse, for example, is a simple problem that may require more than another fuse

to repair. If you don't look for a problem that caused a fuse to blow, a shorted wire (for example)

may go undetected.

Experience has shown that most problems tend to be the result of a fairly simple and obvious cause,

such as loose or corroded connectors, bad grounds or damaged wire insulation which causes a short.

This makes careful visual inspection of components during testing essential to quick and accurate

troubleshooting.

Testing

OPEN CIRCUITS

The infinite reading on this multimeter indicates that the circuit is open

This test already assumes the existence of an open in the circuit and it is used to help locate the open

portion.

1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground.

2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to the ground side of the circuit and

probe sections of the circuit sequentially.

3. If the light is out or there is infinite resistance, the open is between the probe and the circuit

ground.

4. If the light is on or the meter shows continuity, the open is between the probe and the end of the

circuit toward the power source.

SHORT CIRCUITS

Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is

applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.

1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground.

2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any

easy-to-reach point in the circuit.

3. If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.

4. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on

or the meter should indicate continuity).

5. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts,

etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.

6. When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were

opened.

VOLTAGE

This test determines voltage available from the battery and should be the first step in any electrical

troubleshooting procedure after visual inspection. Many electrical problems, especially on computer

controlled systems, can be caused by a low state of charge in the battery. Excessive corrosion at the

battery cable terminals can cause poor contact that will prevent proper charging and full battery

current flow.

1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position.

2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to the battery's negative (-) post or terminal and the

positive lead to the battery's positive (+) post or terminal.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON to provide a load.

4. A well charged battery should register over 12 volts. If the meter reads below 11.5 volts, the

battery power may be insufficient to operate the electrical system properly.

VOLTAGE DROP

This voltage drop test revealed high resistance (low voltage) in the circuit

When current flows through a load, the voltage beyond the load drops. This voltage drop is due to the

resistance created by the load and also by small resistances created by corrosion at the connectors

and damaged insulation on the wires. The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical,

especially if there is more than one load in the circuit, since all voltage drops are cumulative.

1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20 volt position.

2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to a good ground.

3. Operate the circuit and check the voltage prior to the first component (load).

4. There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit prior to the first component. If a voltage

drop exists, the wire or connectors in the circuit are suspect.

5. While operating the first component in the circuit, probe the ground side of the component with

the positive meter lead and observe the voltage readings. A small voltage drop should be

noticed. This voltage drop is caused by the resistance of the component.

6. Repeat the test for each component (load) down the circuit.

7. If a large voltage drop is noticed, the preceding component, wire or connector is suspect.

RESISTANCE

Checking the resistance of a coolant temperature sensor with an ohmmeter. Reading is

1.04 kilohms

Spark plug wires can be checked for excessive resistance using an ohmmeter

WARNING

Never use an ohmmeter with power applied to the circuit. The

ohmmeter is designed to operate on its own power supply. The

normal 12 volt electrical system voltage could damage the meter!

1. Isolate the circuit from the vehicle's power source.

2. Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components or the battery.

3. Where necessary, also isolate at least one side of the circuit to be checked, in order to avoid

reading parallel resistances. Parallel circuit resistances will always give a lower reading than the

actual resistance of either of the branches.

4. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or component) and read the actual

measured ohms on the meter scale. Make sure the selector switch is set to the proper ohm scale

for the circuit being tested, to avoid misreading the ohmmeter test value.

Wire and Connector Repair

Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and parts are available. Wire

and terminals are available to fit almost any need. Even the specialized weatherproof, molded and

hard shell connectors are now available from aftermarket suppliers.

Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with the proper terminal hardware and connectors.

Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution and will only cause trouble later.

Replace wires one at a time to avoid confusion. Always route wires exactly the same as the factory.

If connector repair is necessary, only attempt it if you have the proper tools. Weatherproof

and hard shell connectors require special tools to release the pins inside the connector.

Attempting to repair these connectors with conventional hand tools will damage them.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Battery Cables

When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the

negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical

components such as the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), radio, alternator, etc.

Any time you disengage the battery cables, it is recommended that you disconnect the

negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent your accidentally grounding the positive

(+) terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting it, thereby preventing damage

to the above mentioned components.

Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw

on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle,

just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and, of course, damaging some components such as the

alternator diodes.

When the battery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check that your lights,

windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are all working correctly. If your

vehicle contains an Electronically Tuned Radio (ETR), don't forget to also reset your radio stations.

Ditto for the clock.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Air Bag (Supplemental Restraint System)

General Information

The Air Bag system or Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) is designed to provide additional

protection for front seat occupants when used in conjunction with a seat belt. The system is an

electronically controlled, mechanically operated system. The system contains two basic subsytems:

the air bag module(s) (the actual air bag(s) themselves), and the electrical system. The system

consists of:

The crash sensors

The safing sensor

The air bag module(s)

The diagnostic monitor

The instrument cluster indicator

The sliding contacts (clock spring assembly)

The system is operates as follows: The system remains out of sight until activated in an accident that

is determined to be the equivalent of hitting a parked car of the same size and weight at 28 mph (40

km/h) with the vehicle receiving severe front end damage. This determination is made by crash and

safing sensors mounted on the vehicle which when an sufficient impact occurs, close their contacts

completing the electrical circuit and inflating the air bags. When not activated the system is

monitored by the air bag diagnostic monitor and system readiness is indicated by the lamp located on

the instrument cluster. Any fault detected by the diagnostic monitor will illuminate the lamp and store

a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

Air Bag Module(s)

Exploded view of the air bag module mounting—driver's side

Click to enlarge

The air bag module(s) are located in the steering wheel and the passenger side of the instrument

panel, if equipped with a passenger side air bag. The modules are molded to fit into their designated

areas, the driver's side is located in the center of the steering wheel. The passenger side module is

molded to fit into the instrument panel and is located above the glove box, it is generally

unnoticeable until deflated.

The module contain four parts: an inflator, a bag, a container, and the cover. The purpose of the

inflator is to generate the gas needed to fill the air bag, it consists of a high strength steel casing

containing a propellant that is activated by an igniter. The igniter is fired by the electrical signal

received when the safing sensor closes. When the igniter is fired, the propellant discharge is ignited

and fills the bag. As the bag fills, invisible "split seams" in the cover tear open allowing the bag to

inflate and cushion the forward motion of the occupant and protect against serious injury.

Diagnostic Monitor

The air bag diagnostic monitor continually checks the SRS system to detect any trouble

or fault

Click to enlarge

The diagnostic monitor is located behind the center of the instrument panel, under the radio. The

diagnostic monitor serves no purpose in the firing of the air bag(s). The main purpose of the

diagnostic monitor is to monitor the operational status of the system through continual checks of the

system's circuits. In the event of a fault detected, the diagnostic monitor will illuminate the air bag

indicator and flash out a DTC. All codes are double digit and if a code is flashed, it can be read as

follows: a flash-flash-flash, one-second pause, flash-flash, three-second pause, is a code 32. If

numerous codes are stored, they will flash after the three second pause, if only one code is stored,

the same flash sequence will begin again. In the event of a air bag indicator bulb failure, an audible

tone will be emitted from the diagnostic monitor. this tone is a series of five sets of five beeps, this is

code 55 indicating the indicator bulb is out and in addition the air bag system may require service.

The diagnostic monitor also contains the back-up power supply. In the event of a impact severing the

battery or other electrical sources to the air bag system, the back up power supply contains enough

power to deploy the air bag(s). The diagnostic monitor contains several small capacitors that store

power. The back-up power supply must be discharged before air bag service can be performed.

Crash Sensors

Air bag firing circuit diagram

Click to enlarge

The crash sensors are located in the front of the vehicle on either side of the front radiator support. In

the event of a head-on impact (or at least a 3 /

4

frontal impact, the sensing mass inside the sensor

breaks away from the bias magnet. The sensor mass rolls along a cylinder toward two electrical

contacts, if the deceleration is sufficient, the sensing mass will bridge the contacts and complete the

primary deployment circuit to the air bag module.

The mounting and orientation of the sensors is vital to system operation. The sensors should be

inspected by a qualified individual after any impact where the sensors could have been damaged. If

any structural damage is evident, the area must be repaired to its original condition, otherwise the

sensor orientation could be compromised. If the sensor(s) have received damage, they must be

replaced.

Safing Sensor

The safing sensor is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side, below the instrument panel.

The safing sensor operates identical to the crash sensor, except for the calibration. This is

accomplished using a slightly weaker bias magnet. If the safing sensor contacts close simultaneously

with the crash sensor, the air bag(s) will be deployed.

The safing sensor is essentially a safety for the air bag system. It protects the bag(s) from deploying

due to an electrical short. The safing sensor is used to verify the force of a collision and complete the

air bag(s) deployment. The sensor is located inside the passenger compartment so that a forceful

enough impact could be detected, and a false signal from the crash sensor would not deploy the air

bag(s) at an inappropriate time.

Air Bag Indicator

The air bag indicator is located on the instrument cluster and illuminates when activated by the

diagnostic monitor. The indicator illuminates when the key is placed in the ignition and turned to

RUN , this is the bulb prove-out. The indicator will stay illuminated after the vehicle is started while

the diagnostic monitor checks the system for faults, if no faults are detected, the indicator will go out

after about 6 seconds. If the indicator does not go out after 6 seconds, a fault has been detected in

the system, a DTC will be flashed using the indicator.

Sliding Contact

The clock spring assembly is located in the steering column, behind the steering wheel. The function

of the clock spring assembly is to keep the electrical connection intact while the steering wheel is

rotated while the driver is turning the wheel to steer the vehicle.

System Service

CAUTION

Some vehicles are equipped with an air bag system. The system must

be disabled before performing service on or around air bag system

components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring

and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could

result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and

unnecessary SRS system repairs.

SERVICE PRECAUTIONS

Typically a warning label will be found on the vehicle regarding the air bag system

Always carry a live air bag module with the bag and trim cover facing away from your

body

Always place an air bag module on a table or other flat surface with the bag and trim

cover pointing up

Whenever working around, or on, the air bag supplemental restraint system, ALWAYS adhere to the

following warnings and cautions.

Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and when handling an air bag

module.

Carry a live air bag module with the bag and trim cover facing away from your body, so that an

accidental deployment of the air bag will have a small chance of personal injury.

Place an air bag module on a table or other flat surface with the bag and trim cover pointing up.

Wear gloves, a dust mask and safety glasses whenever handling a deployed air bag module. The

air bag surface may contain traces of sodium hydroxide, a by-product of the gas that inflates the

air bag and which can cause skin irritation.

Ensure to wash your hands with mild soap and water after handling a deployed air bag.

All air bag modules with discolored or damaged cover trim must be replaced, not repainted.

All component replacement and wiring service must be made with the negative and positive

battery cables disconnected from the battery for a minimum of one minute prior to attempting

service or replacement.

NEVER probe the air bag electrical terminals. Doing so could result in air bag deployment, which

can cause serious physical injury.

If the vehicle is involved in a fender-bender which results in a damaged front bumper or grille,

have the air bag sensors inspected by a qualified automotive technician to ensure that they were

not damaged.

If at any time, the air bag light indicates that the computer has noted a problem, have your

vehicle's SRS serviced immediately by a qualified automotive technician. A faulty SRS can cause

severe physical injury or death.

DISARMING THE SYSTEM

CAUTION

The air bag system must be disarmed before performing service

around air bag components or wiring. Failure to do so may cause

accidental deployment of the air bag, resulting in unnecessary repairs

and/or personal injury.

1. Position the vehicle with the front wheels in a straight ahead position.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Disconnect the positive battery cable.

4. Wait at least one minute for the air bag back-up power supply to drain before continuing.

ARMING THE SYSTEM

1. Connect the positive battery cable.

2. Connect the negative battery cable.

3. Stand outside the vehicle and carefully turn the ignition to the RUN position. Be sure that no part

of your body is in front of the air bag module on the steering wheel, to prevent injury in case of

an accidental air bag deployment.

4. Ensure the air bag indicator light turns off after approximately 6 seconds. If the light does not

illuminate at all, does not turn off, or starts to flash, have the system tested by a qualified

automotive technician. If the light does turn off after 6 seconds and does not flash, the SRS is

working properly.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Entertainment Systems

Radio/Tape Player/CD Player (Dash Mounted)

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

On the F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator models, remove the radio finish panel by

carefully prying on the panel to release the retaining clips

Install Radio Removal Tool (T87P-19061-A) or equivalent into the radio face place

Apply a slight outward spreading force on both sides and ...

... pull the radio chassis out of the instrument panel

Detach the antenna and the ...

... electrical connectors from the back of the radio and remove the radio

When installing the radio, make sure that the clip is centered on the support bracket

before sliding the radio into the instrument panel

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. On the F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator models, remove the radio finish panel by carefully

prying on the panel to release the retaining clips. Do not use excessive force when installing the

radio removal tool. This will damage the retaining clips, making radio chassis removal difficult

and may cause other internal damage.

3. Install Radio Removal Tool (T87P-19061-A) or equivalent into the radio face place. Push the tool

in approximately 1 in. (25mm) to release the retaining clips.

4. Apply a slight outward spreading force on both sides and pull the radio chassis out of the

instrument panel.

5. Disconnect the radio wiring harness and antenna cable.

6. Remove the radio chassis. To install:

7. Position the radio chassis in the vehicle.

8. Connect the radio wiring harness and antenna cable.

9. Push the radio chassis inward until the retaining clips are fully engaged.

10. On the F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator models, install the radio finish panel.

11. Connect the negative battery cable.

Amplifier

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

Remove the four retaining screws and remove the climate control panel assembly

Click to enlarge

Remove the instrument panel floor duct assembly

Click to enlarge

Remove the amplifier assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the radio chassis.

3. Remove the climate control panel retaining screws and position the control panel aside.

4. Remove the instrument panel floor duct assembly.

5. If equipped, remove the center console assembly. Refer to Section 10 .

6. Remove the amplifier retaining screws.

7. Lift up on the amplifier assembly and detach the electrical connectors.

8. Remove the amplifier assembly. To install:

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty Models

The amplifier assembly is located in the instrument panel behind the radio chassis.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the radio chassis.

3. Detach the electrical connectors for the amplifier.

4. Remove the retaining screws and remove the amplifier from the vehicle. To install:

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

CD Changer

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

F-150 and F-250 Regular Cab

If equipped with a rear storage bin, remove the retaining nuts and remove the storage

compartment

Click to enlarge

Remove the CD changer retaining nuts

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. If not equipped with a rear storage bin, remove the changer cover.

3. If equipped with a rear storage bin, remove the retaining nuts and remove the storage

compartment.

4. Remove the CD changer retaining nuts.

5. Lift the changer up and detach the electrical connectors.

6. Remove the CD changer from the vehicle. To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

F-150 and F-250 Extended Cab

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the driver's side rear cab lower trim panel.

3. Remove the CD changer retaining screws and nuts.

4. Lift the changer up and detach the electrical connectors.

5. Remove the CD changer from the vehicle. To install:

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Expedition and Navigator

Remove the CD changer bracket bottom retaining screws

Click to enlarge

Remove the upper bracket retaining screws

Click to enlarge

Lift the CD changer and bracket assembly up and detach the electrical connector from

the changer

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Open the center console lid.

3. Remove the mat at the bottom of the console bin.

4. Remove the CD changer bracket bottom retaining screws.

5. Remove the upper bracket retaining screws.

6. Lift the CD changer and bracket assembly up and detach the electrical connector from the

changer.

7. Remove the changer from the vehicle.

8. If necessary, remove the bracket from the changer and install it on the new changer. To install:

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Speakers

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Remove the speaker retaining screws, pull the speaker out and ...

... detach the speaker electrical connector and remove the speaker

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove any necessary trim, speaker grilles, or other components necessary to access the

speaker(s).

3. Remove the speaker retaining screws.

4. Pull the speaker out and detach the electrical connector.

5. Remove the speaker from the vehicle. To install:

6. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Windshield Wipers and Washers

Windshield Wiper Blade and Arm

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

Remove the cover over the wiper arm retaining nuts

Remove the retaining nuts on the wiper arm pivots

Matchmark the wiper arms to the pivot for reinstallation

Lift each wiper arm and free it from the pivot shafts

1. Raise the covers over the wiper arm retaining nuts.

2. Remove the retaining nuts on the wiper arm pivots.

3. Matchmark the wiper arms to the pivot for reinstallation.

4. Lift each wiper arm and free it from the pivot shafts. The wiper arms will most likely be stuck, a

useful tool for removal of the wiper arms is a battery terminal puller. The battery terminal puller

exerts force on the pivot and raises the arm, otherwise prying and other techniques could do

damage to the wiper arms, trim, windshield, or painted surfaces of the vehicle. To install:

5. Place the wiper arm onto the pivot aligning the matchmarks.

6. Tighten the wiper arm retaining nuts.

7. Fasten the retaining nut covers.

EXCEPT F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

1. Raise the blade end of the arm off of the windshield.

2. Move the slide latch away from the pivot shaft.

3. Pull the wiper arm off of the pivot shaft. To install:

4. Position the wiper arm into place and make sure it is aligned properly with the windshield.

5. Place the wiper arm onto the pivot until the latch engages.

6. Lower the blade to the windshield.

Rear (Expedition And Navigator Only)

The rear wiper arm assembly

Click to enlarge

1. Raise the covers over the wiper arm retaining nuts.

2. Remove the retaining nuts on the wiper arm pivots.

3. Matchmark the wiper arms to the pivot for reinstallation.

4. Lift each wiper arm and free it from the pivot shafts. The wiper arms will most likely be stuck, a

useful tool for removal of the wiper arms is a battery terminal puller. The battery terminal puller

exerts force on the pivot and raises the arm, otherwise prying and other techniques could do

damage to the wiper arms, trim, windshield, or painted surfaces of the vehicle. To install:

5. Place the wiper arm onto the pivot aligning the matchmarks.

6. Tighten the wiper arm retaining nuts.

7. Fasten the retaining nut covers.

Windshield Wiper Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Cowl vent panel removal—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

Remove the wiper motor mounting bolts and remove the wiper motor

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the windshield wiper arms.

3. Remove the moulding from the bottom of the windshield.

4. Remove the five screws across the cowl top vent panel. The screws can be accessed through the

holes in the vent panel.

5. Remove the ten screws across the vertical surface holding the cowl top vent panel to the cowl

top.

6. With the hood partially closed, lift the cowl top vent panel.

7. Disconnect the radio antenna or lead wire, if necessary.

8. Disconnect the washer hose and remove the cowl top vent panel.

9. Remove the metal shield above the windshield wiper motor.

10. Remove the wiper adapter and connecting arm clip where the wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft

connect to the wiper motor drive arm.

11. Detach the electrical connectors from the wiper motor.

12. Remove the wiper motor mounting bolts and remove the wiper motor. To install:

13. Install the wiper motor and torque the mounting bolts 60-85 inch lbs. (6.8-9.6 Nm).

14. Connect the electrical connectors to the wiper motor.

15. Install the wiper adapter and connecting arm clip where the wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft

connect to the wiper motor drive arm.

16. Install the metal shield above the windshield wiper motor.

17. Connect the washer hose at the cowl top vent panel.

18. Connect the radio antenna or lead wire, if necessary.

19. Install the cowl top vent panel. Tighten the ten screws across the vertical surface of the cowl top

vent panel and the cowl top.

20. Tighten the five screws across the cowl top vent panel.

21. Install the moulding at the bottom of the windshield.

22. Install the wiper pivot arms.

23. Connect the negative battery cable.

24. The vehicle may need to be driven as much as 10 miles for the PCM to relearn its adaptive

strategy.

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION, NAVIGATOR AND 1999-00 F-SUPER DUTY MODELS

Pry the covers over the cowl panel retaining screws off and remove the retaining screws

Lift up to release the clips and remove the hood-to-cowl weather strip

Remove the trim clips from the cowl panels

Remove the cowl panel-to-firewall retaining clips

Remove the driver's side then the ...

... passenger side cowl panel from the vehicle

Detach the electrical connector for the wiper motor

Remove the three wiper module assembly retaining bolts and ...

... remove the module from the vehicle

Remove the wiper linkage retaining bolt and remove the linkage from the wiper motor

Remove the wiper motor retaining bolts and remove the wiper motor from the vehicle

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the ignition switch ON until the wiper blades are

straight up, then turn the ignition switch OFF.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Remove the right-hand and left-hand windshield wiper arm and blade assemblies.

4. Remove the cowl top vent panels.

5. Detach the electrical harness connector at the windshield wiper motor assembly.

6. Remove 3 wiper motor (module assembly) retaining bolts and remove the module assembly from

the vehicle.

7. Remove the wiper linkage retaining bolt and remove the linkage from the wiper motor.

8. Remove 3 retaining nuts and remove the windshield wiper motor. To install:

9. Place the windshield wiper motor in position and install 3 retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to 10-

12 ft. lbs. (12-17 Nm).

10. Connect the wiper linkage to the windshield wiper motor and install the retaining bolt. Tighten the

bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

11. Place the wiper motor (module assembly) in position and install 3 retaining bolts. Tighten the

bolts to 6 ft. lbs (9 Nm).

12. Install the electrical harness connector to the windshield wiper motor.

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Allow the windshield wiper motor to cycle several times while checking for proper wiper motor

operation.

15. Turn the windshield wiper motor switch to the OFF position to park the wiper motor in the park

position.

16. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

17. Install the cowl top vent panels.

18. Install the wiper arm and blade assemblies. Install the retaining nuts and tighten to 22-29 ft. lbs.

(30-40 Nm). Install the nut covers.

19. Connect the negative battery cable.

20. Check the windshield wiper motor for proper operation and the wiper arms for adjustment.

Rear (Expedition And Navigator Only)

Remove the upper liftgate trim panel

Click to enlarge

Remove the liftgate assist strap

Click to enlarge

Remove the lower liftgate trim panel

Click to enlarge

Remove the retaining bolts and remove the wiper motor

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the rear wiper arm.

2. Remove the upper liftgate trim panel.

3. Remove the liftgate assist strap.

4. Remove the lower liftgate trim panel.

5. Peel back the liftgate watershield.

6. Detach the connector for the wiper motor.

7. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the wiper motor. To install:

8. Install the wiper motor and tighten the retaining bolts to 80-107 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm).

9. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

Windshield Washer Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front

Washer motor replacement

Click to enlarge

Disassembling the washer motor

Click to enlarge

1. Remove the reservoir.

2. Using a small prytool, pry out the motor retaining ring.

3. Using pliers, grip one edge of the electrical connector ring and pull the motor, seal and impeller

from the reservoir.

If the seal and impeller come apart from the motor, it can all be re-assembled.

To install:

1. Take the time to clean out the reservoir before installing the motor.

2. Coat the seal with a dry lubricant, such as powdered graphite or spray Teflon®. This will aid

assembly.

3. Align the small projection on the motor end cap with the slot in the reservoir and install the motor

so that the seal seats against the bottom of the motor cavity.

4. Press the retaining ring into position. A 1 in., 12-point socket or length of 1 in. tubing, will do

nicely as an installation tool.

5. Install the reservoir and connect the wiring.

It's not a good idea to run a new motor without filling the reservoir first. Dry-running will

damage a new motor.

Rear (Expedition And Navigator Only)

The rear washer system on the Expedition and Navigator does contain a separate reservoir, rather

uses the washer motor and reservoir from the front.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Instruments and Switches

Instrument Cluster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty

Remove the cluster opening trim panel

Click to enlarge

Instrument cluster mounting

Click to enlarge

On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the loop on the indicator

cable assembly from the retainer pin

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the cluster opening trim panel.

3. On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the loop on the indicator cable

assembly from the retainer pin. Remove the thumbwheel bracket screw from the cable bracket

and slide the bracket out of the slot in the steering column tube.

4. Remove the instrument cluster retaining bolts.

5. Pull the instrument cluster out of the instrument panel.

6. Detach the electrical connectors.

7. Remove the instrument cluster. To install:

8. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

9. Connect the battery cable, and check the operation of all gauges, lights and signals.

F-150, F-250, Expedition And Navigator

Carefully release the four clips and remove the steering column opening cover

Remove the instrument cluster finish panel retaining bolts behind the steering column

opening cover

Remove the headlamp switch and remove the retaining bolt behind the headlamp switch

The instrument cluster finish panel upper retaining screw locations

Remove the instrument cluster finish panel upper retaining screws

The location of the instrument cluster retaining bolts

Remove the transmission range indicator

Detach the electrical connectors and remove the cluster from the vehicle

WARNING

Prior to removal of module on an electronic instrument cluster, it is

necessary to upload module configuration information to New

Generation STAR (NGS) Tester. This information needs to be

downloaded into the new module once installed.

WARNING

Electronic modules are sensitive to electrical charges. If exposed to

these charges, damage may result.

1. Remove the headlamp switch.

2. Carefully release the four clips and remove the steering column opening cover.

3. Remove the instrument panel finish panel retaining bolts.

4. Remove the instrument panel finish panel.

5. Remove the instrument cluster retaining bolts.

6. Pull the instrument cluster out of the instrument panel.

7. Detach the electrical connectors.

8. If equipped, remove the transmission range indicator.

9. On the F-150 Lightning, disconnect the boost gauge vacuum line.

10. Remove the instrument cluster. To install:

11. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

CAUTION

Once the new module is installed, it is necessary to download the

module configuration information from the New Generation STAR

(NGS) Tester into the new module.

1999-00 Super Duty Models

1. Remove the radio.

2. If equipped with tilt wheel, lower the steering wheel.

3. Remove the cluster finish panel bolts.

4. Pull the cluster finish panel from the instrument panel.

5. Detach the power point connector.

6. If equipped, detach the passenger air bag deactivation switch connector.

7. Detach the headlight switch electrical connectors.

8. Remove the cluster finish panel.

9. Remove the instrument cluster screws.

10. Pull out the instrument cluster.

11. If equipped, disconnect the transmission range indicator.

12. Push in the two clips and pull out the transmission range indicator. Position it aside.

13. Detach the electrical connectors.

14. Remove the instrument cluster. To install:

15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Gauges

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument cluster.

3. Remove the retaining screws for the instrument cluster lens and cover assembly. Remove the

cover and lens.

4. Remove the retaining screws for the gauge or warning lamp to be replaced and remove the gauge

or warning lamp. To install:

5. Place the gauge or warning lamp into place and tighten the retaining screws.

6. Install the instrument cluster lens and cover assembly.

7. Install the instrument cluster.

8. Connect the negative battery cable.

Headlight Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. On vehicles equipped with tilt steering column, position the steering wheel in the lowest position.

3. On vehicles equipped with a column shift, lock the parking brake and position the shift lever in

the lowest position.

4. Pull the headlight switch ON.

5. Insert a small flat bladed tool in the slot behind the headlight switch knob and pull the knob off.

6. Unscrew the headlight switch bezel.

7. Remove the 2 exposed screws from under the right and left lower instrument panel mouldings.

8. Disconnect the 5 retaining clips by pulling the instrument panel finish panel rearward. The 2

lower clips should be pulled first followed by the 3 upper clips.

9. Disconnect the wiring from the instrument panel finish panel.

10. Insert a punch or similar tool into the access hole of the headlight switch and pull on the push

rod from the headlight switch to remove the push rod.

11. Remove the mounting nut and remove the headlight switch from the instrument panel.

Disconnect the wiring. To install:

12. Connect the wiring to the headlight switch and install into the instrument panel. Tighten the

mounting nut.

13. Install the switch push rod into the headlight switch.

14. Connect the wiring to the instrument panel finish panel.

15. Install the instrument panel finish panel into the instrument panel making sure to engage all 5

clips.

16. Tighten the 2 exposed screws under the right and left lower instrument panel mouldings.

17. Screw the headlight bezel into place.

18. Install the headlight switch knob.

19. On vehicles equipped with a column shift, return the shift lever to the PARK position.

20. Connect the negative battery cable.

Except 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty

Rotate the knob on the switch to the headlamp on position and insert a small thin tool to

release the headlamp switch knob and remove the knob from the switch

Turn the knob 180 degrees and install the knob onto the switch

Rotate the knob counterclockwise until the knob points to the OFF position then rotate

the knob clockwise one full turn.

Remove the headlamp switch from the instrument panel and ...

... detach the electrical connectors from the switch

WARNING

The headlamp switch is retained to the instrument panel by a tabs

which are located on the switch. This procedure must be followed

exactly or damage to the switch and/or instrument panel will occur.

This procedure releases (lowers the tabs into the switch body) so that

the switch can be puled out.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Rotate the knob on the switch to the headlamp on position.

3. Insert a small thin tool to release the headlamp switch knob and remove the knob from the

switch.

4. Turn the knob 180 degrees and install the knob onto the switch.

5. Rotate the knob counterclockwise until the knob points to the OFF position.

6. Rotate the knob clockwise one full turn.

7. Grasp the headlamp switch and remove it from the instrument panel.

8. Detach the connectors from the switch and remove the switch from the vehicle. To install:

9. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Lighting

Headlights

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty

Headlamp assembly—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Raise and support the hood.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Detach the headlamp electrical connector.

4. Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise and remove.

5. Remove the headlamp bulb by pulling it straight out with a gentle up-and-down rocking motion.

WARNING

Do not touch the glass bulb with your fingers. Oil from your fingers

can severely shorten the life of the bulb. If necessary, wipe off any

dirt or oil from the bulb with rubbing alcohol before completing

installation.

To install:

6. Install a new bulb into the headlamp assembly.

7. Install the headlamp bulb retainer and turn it clockwise to engage the retaining tabs.

8. Attach the bulb electrical connector.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

10. Turn the lights on and check the bulb operation.

F-150, F-250, Expedition And Navigator

The headlamp assembly is held by two retainers

Lift up on the retainers and ...

... pull the headlamp assembly out of the front of the vehicle

Detach the electrical connector for the headlamp bulb

Rotate the retainer until ...

... it is free from the retaining tabs on the headlamp assembly and ...

... remove the bulb and retainer from the headlamp

Remove the bulb from the retainer

CAUTION

The halogen bulb contains gas under pressure. The bulb may shatter

if the glass envelope is scratched or if the bulb is dropped. Handle

the bulb carefully. Grasp the bulb only by its base. Avoid touching the

glass envelope.

The headlamp bulb should not be removed from the headlamp until just before a

replacement bulb is installed. Removing the bulb for an extended period of time may affect

headlamp bulb performance. Contaminants may enter the headlamp where they can settle

on the lens and reflector. Never turn on the headlamps with the bulb removed from the

headlamp.

1. Raise and support the hood.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Raise the headlamp retainers by pushing rearward and pulling up.

4. If equipped, rotate the headlamp bulb protective cover counterclockwise and remove.

5. Disconnect the headlamp bulb electrical connector.

6. Remove the headlamp assembly.

7. Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise and remove.

8. Remove the headlamp bulb by pulling it straight out with a gentle up-and-down rocking motion.

WARNING

Do not touch the glass bulb with your fingers. Oil from your fingers

can severely shorten the life of the bulb. If necessary, wipe off any

dirt or oil from the bulb with rubbing alcohol before completing

installation.

To install:

9. Install a new bulb into the headlamp assembly.

10. Install the headlamp bulb retainer and turn it clockwise to engage the retaining tabs.

11. Attach the bulb electrical connector.

12. If equipped, install the headlamp bulb protective cover.

13. Install the headlamp assembly.

Be sure the headlamp assembly is positioned correctly with the alignment pins inserted into

the proper holes and onto the ribs of the reinforcement.

1. Engage the retainers by gently pushing down.

2. Connect the negative battery cable.

3. Turn the lights on and check the bulb operation.

1999-00 Super Duty Models

Headlamp assembly—1999-00 Super Duty models

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Pull up and remove the two upper headlamp clips.

3. Release the lower headlamp clip.

4. Position the headlamp so the connector can be accessed.

5. Detach the headlamp connector.

6. Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle.

7. Rotate the headlamp bulb retainer counterclockwise and remove.

8. Remove the headlamp bulb by pulling it straight out with a gentle up-and-down rocking motion.

WARNING

Do not touch the glass bulb with your fingers. Oil from your fingers

can severely shorten the life of the bulb. If necessary, wipe off any

dirt or oil from the bulb with rubbing alcohol before completing

installation.

To install:

9. Install a new bulb into the headlamp assembly.

10. Install the headlamp bulb retainer and turn it clockwise to engage the retaining tabs.

11. Attach the bulb electrical connector.

12. Install the headlamp assembly.

13. Connect the negative battery cable.

14. Turn the lights on and check the bulb operation.

AIMING THE HEADLIGHTS

The headlights must be properly aimed to provide the best, safest road illumination. The lights should

be checked for proper aim and adjusted as necessary. Certain state and local authorities have

requirements for headlight aiming; these should be checked before adjustment is made.

CAUTION

About once a year, when the headlights are replaced or any time front

end work is performed on your vehicle, the headlight should be

accurately aimed by a reputable repair shop using the proper

equipment. Headlights not properly aimed can make it virtually

impossible to see and may blind other drivers on the road, possibly

causing an accident. Note that the following procedure is a temporary

fix, until you can take your vehicle to a repair shop for a proper

adjustment.

Headlight adjustment may be temporarily made using a wall, as described below, or on the rear of

another vehicle. When adjusted, the lights should not glare in oncoming car or truck windshields, nor

should they illuminate the passenger compartment of vehicles driving in front of you. These

adjustments are rough and should always be fine-tuned by a repair shop which is equipped with

headlight aiming tools. Improper adjustments may be both dangerous and illegal.

For most of the vehicles covered by this manual, horizontal and vertical aiming of each sealed beam

unit is provided by two adjusting screws which move the retaining ring and adjusting plate against

the tension of a coil spring. There is no adjustment for focus; this is done during headlight

manufacturing.

Because the composite headlight assembly is bolted into position, no adjustment should be

necessary or possible. Some applications, however, may be bolted to an adjuster plate or

may be retained by adjusting screws. If so, follow this procedure when adjusting the

lights, BUT always have the adjustment checked by a reputable shop.

Before removing the headlight bulb or disturbing the headlamp in any way, note the current settings

in order to ease headlight adjustment upon reassembly. If the high or low beam setting of the old

lamp still works, this can be done using the wall of a garage or a building:

Park the vehicle on a level surface, with the fuel tank about

1

/

2

full and with the vehicle empty of

all extra cargo (unless normally carried). The vehicle should be facing a wall which is no less

than 6 feet (1.8m) high and 12 feet (3.7m) wide. The front of the vehicle should be about 25 feet

from the wall.

Example of headlight adjustment screw location for composite headlamps

Click to enlarge

If aiming is to be performed outdoors, it is advisable to wait until dusk in order to properly see

the headlight beams on the wall. If done in a garage, darken the area around the wall as much as

possible by closing shades or hanging cloth over the windows.

Turn the headlights ON and mark the wall at the center of each light's low beam, then switch on

the brights and mark the center of each light's high beam. A short length of masking tape which

is visible from the front of the vehicle may be used. Although marking all four positions is

advisable, marking one position from each light should be sufficient.

Low-beam headlight pattern alignment

Click to enlarge

High-beam headlight pattern alignment

Click to enlarge

If neither beam on one side is working, and if another like-sized vehicle is available, park the

second one in the exact spot where the vehicle was and mark the beams using the same-side

light. Then switch the vehicles so the one to be aimed is back in the original spot. It must be

parked no closer to or farther away from the wall than the second vehicle.

Perform any necessary repairs, but make sure the vehicle is not moved, or is returned to the

exact spot from which the lights were marked. Turn the headlights ON and adjust the beams to

match the marks on the wall.

Have the headlight adjustment checked as soon as possible by a reputable repair shop.

Signal and Marker Lights

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Front Turn Signal and Parking Lights

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Parking and turn signal lamp bulb replacement—1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 And F-Super

Duty

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the headlamp assembly.

3. Unplug the connector for the lamp.

4. Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens.

5. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

6. Place a new bulb into the socket and gently push to engage the retaining tabs.

7. Place the bulb and socket assembly into the opening of the lens and turn it

1

/

4

of a turn clockwise

to engage it into the lens.

8. Attach the connector for the lamp.

9. Install the headlamp assembly.

10. Connect the negative battery cable.

EXCEPT 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 AND F-SUPER DUTY

Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise 1 /

4

of a turn to ...

... release it from the lens

Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Open and support the hood.

3. Remove the headlamp assembly.

4. Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens.

5. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

6. Place a new bulb into the socket and gently push to engage the retaining tabs.

7. Place the bulb and socket assembly into the opening of the lens and turn it

1

/

4

of a turn clockwise

to engage it into the lens.

8. Install the headlamp assembly.

9. Connect the negative battery cable.

10. Verify the operation of the lamp.

11. Close the hood.

Side Marker Light

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Carefully pry the lens from the lamp assembly.

3. Remove the bulb from the terminals by gently pulling the bulb upward. To install:

4. Gently press the bulb into the terminals on the lamp.

5. Snap the lens into the lamp assembly.

6. Connect the negative battery cable.

7. Verify the operation of the lamp.

Rear Turn Signal, Brake and Parking Lights

The taillamp assembly is held by two retaining screws—F-150 model shown

Remove the two taillamp retaining screws and ...

... pull the taillamp assembly out of the rear of the vehicle

Unplug the connector for the lamp

Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise 1 /

4

of a turn to release it from the lens

Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the lamp retaining screws.

3. Remove the lamp assembly from the vehicle.

4. Unplug the connector for the lamp.

5. Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens.

6. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

7. Place a new bulb into the socket and gently push to engage the retaining tabs.

8. Place the bulb and socket assembly into the opening of the lens and turn it

1

/

4

of a turn clockwise

to engage it into the lens.

9. Attach the connector for the lamp.

10. Place the lamp assembly into the opening in the vehicle.

11. Tighten the lamp retaining screws.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

High-Mount Brake Light

The high-mount brake light assembly is held to the body by two retaining screws

Remove the two retaining screws and ...

... remove the lamp assembly from the body

Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens

Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the lamp retaining screws.

3. Remove the lamp assembly from the vehicle.

4. Unplug the connector for the lamp.

5. Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens.

6. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

7. Place a new bulb into the socket and gently push to engage the retaining tabs.

8. Place the bulb and socket assembly into the opening of the lens and turn it

1

/

4

of a turn clockwise

to engage it into the lens.

9. Attach the connector for the lamp.

10. Place the lamp assembly into the opening in the vehicle.

11. Tighten the lamp retaining screws.

12. Connect the negative battery cable.

Dome Light

Carefully pry the dome lamp lens from the lamp assembly

Remove the bulb from the terminals by gently pulling the bulb upward

Map Lights

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Carefully pry the dome lamp lens from the lamp assembly.

3. Remove the bulb from the terminals by gently pulling the bulb downward. To install:

4. Gently press the bulb into the terminals on the lamp.

5. Snap the lens into the lamp assembly.

6. Connect the negative battery cable.

7. Verify the operation of the lamp.

Carefully pry the dome lamp lens from the lamp assembly

Remove the three lamp assembly retaining screws and ...

... lower the lamp assembly from the headliner

Grasp the bulb and carefully remove it up and ...

... out of the lamp assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Carefully pry the dome lamp lens from the lamp assembly.

3. Remove the three retaining screws for the map/dome lamp assembly and remove it from the

headliner.

4. Remove the bulb(s) from the terminals by gently pulling the bulb upward and out of the lamp

assembly. To install:

5. Slide the bulbs into place and gently press the bulb into the terminals on the lamp.

6. Place the lamp assembly into place and tighten the retaining screws.

7. Snap the lens into the lamp assembly.

8. Connect the negative battery cable.

9. Verify the operation of the lamp.

Cargo Area Lamps

The cargo lamps are part of the high-mount brake lamp assembly. Refer to high mount brake lamp in

this section.

License Plate Lights

F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

Reach up and under the bumper to access the license plate bulb socket, rotate the socket

and remove it from the lamp

Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Reach under the bumper and rotate the bulb socket to remove it from the lamp lens.

3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

EXCEPT F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR

Remove the lamp cover retaining screws to access the license plate bulb

Click to enlarge

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the retaining screws for the lamp lens.

3. Remove the lens from the lamp assembly.

4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Fog/Driving Lights

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Lamp Assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Detach the bulb connector.

3. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the lamp from the bracket. To install:

4. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Bulb

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Detach the bulb connector.

3. Turn the bulb and socket counterclockwise

1

/

4

of a turn to release it from the lens.

4. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

INSTALLING AFTERMARKET AUXILIARY LIGHTS

Before installing any aftermarket light, make sure it is legal for road use. Most acceptable

lights will have a DOT approval number. Also check your local and regional inspection

regulations. In certain areas, aftermarket lights must be installed in a particular manner or

they may not be legal for inspection.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Unpack the contents of the light kit purchased. Place the contents in an open space where you

can easily retrieve a piece if needed.

3. Choose a location for the lights. If you are installing fog lights, below the bumper and apart from

each other is desirable. Most fog lights are mounted below or very close to the headlights. If you

are installing driving lights, above the bumper and close together is desirable. Most driving

lights are mounted between the headlights.

4. Drill the needed hole(s) to mount the light. Install the light, and secure using the supplied retainer

nut and washer. Tighten the light mounting hardware, but not the light adjustment nut or bolt.

5. Install the relay that came with the light kit in the engine compartment, in a rigid area, such as a

fender. Always install the relay with the terminals facing down. This will prevent water from

entering the relay assembly.

6. Using the wire supplied, locate the ground terminal on the relay, and connect a length of wire

from this terminal to a good ground source. You can drill a hole and screw this wire to an inside

piece of metal; just scrape the paint away from the hole to ensure a good connection.

7. Locate the light terminal on the relay; and attach a length of wire between this terminal and the

fog/driving lamps.

8. Locate the ignition terminal on the relay, and connect a length of wire between this terminal and

the light switch.

9. Find a suitable mounting location for the light switch and install. Some examples of mounting

areas are a location close to the main light switch, auxiliary light position in the dash panel, if

equipped, or in the center of the dash panel.

10. Depending on local and regional regulations, the other end of the switch can be connected to a

constant power source such as the battery, an ignition opening in the fuse panel, or a parking or

headlight wire.

11. Locate the power terminal on the relay, and connect a wire with an in-line fuse of at least 10

amperes between the terminal and the battery.

12. With all the wires connected and tied up neatly, connect the negative battery cable.

13. Turn the lights ON and adjust the light pattern, if necessary.

AIMING

1. Park the vehicle on level ground, so it is perpendicular to and, facing a flat wall about 25 ft. (7.6m)

away.

2. Remove any stone shields, if equipped, and switch ON the lights.

3. Loosen the mounting hardware of the lights so you can aim them as follows:

1. The horizontal distance between the light beams on the wall should be the same as between the

lights themselves.

2. The vertical height of the light beams above the ground should be 4 in. (10cm) less than the

distance between the ground and the center of the lamp lenses for fog lights. For driving lights,

the vertical height should be even with the distance between the ground and the center of the

lamp.

1. Tighten the mounting hardware.

2. Test to make sure the lights work correctly, and the light pattern is even.

Instrument Cluster Light Bulbs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove the instrument cluster as outlined in this section.

3. Turn the desired bulb socket counter clockwise to remove it from the cluster.

4. Grasp the bulb and pull it straight out to remove it from the socket. To install:

5. Place a new bulb into the socket and lightly press it into place.

6. Place the socket into the cluster and turn the socket clockwise to engage it into the cluster.

7. Install the instrument cluster.

8. Connect the negative battery cable.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Trailer Wiring

Wiring the vehicle for towing is fairly easy. There are a number of good wiring kits available and these

should be used, rather than trying to design your own.

All trailers will need brake lights and turn signals as well as tail lights and side marker lights. Most

areas require extra marker lights for overwide trailers. Also, most areas have recently required backup lights for trailers, and most trailer manufacturers have been building trailers with back-up lights for

several years.

Additionally, some Class I, most Class II and just about all Class III and IV trailers will have electric

brakes. Add to this number an accessories wire, to operate trailer internal equipment or to charge the

trailer's battery, and you can have as many as seven wires in the harness.

Determine the equipment on your trailer and buy the wiring kit necessary. The kit will contain all the

wires needed, plus a plug adapter set which includes the female plug, mounted on the bumper or

hitch, and the male plug, wired into, or plugged into the trailer harness.

When installing the kit, follow the manufacturer's instructions. The color coding of the wires is usually

standard throughout the industry. One point to note: some domestic vehicles, and most imported

vehicles, have separate turn signals. On most domestic vehicles, the brake lights and rear turn

signals operate with the same bulb. For those vehicles without separate turn signals, you can

purchase an isolation unit so that the brake lights won't blink whenever the turn signals are operated.

One, final point, the best kits are those with a spring loaded cover on the vehicle mounted socket.

This cover prevents dirt and moisture from corroding the terminals. Never let the vehicle socket hang

loosely; always mount it securely to the bumper or hitch.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Circuit Protection

Fuses

REPLACEMENT

On some models, it is necessary to remove this door to access the interior fuse box

Remove the fuse panel cover

To remove a fuse, grasp the fuse and pull it straight out carefully

Fuses are located either in the engine compartment or passenger compartment fuse and relay panels.

If a fuse blows, a single component or single circuit will not function properly.

1. Remove the fuse or relay box cover.

2. Inspect the fuses to determine which is faulty.

3. Unplug and discard the fuse.

4. Inspect the box terminals and clean if corroded. If any terminals are damaged, replace the

terminals.

5. Plug in a new fuse of the same amperage rating.

WARNING

Never exceed the amperage rating of a blown fuse. If the replacement

fuse also blows, check for a problem in the circuit.

6. Check for proper operation of the affected component or circuit.

Maxi-Fuses (Fusible Links)

Maxi-fuses are located in the engine compartment relay box. If a maxi-fuse blows, an entire circuit or

several circuits will not function properly.

REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the fuse and relay box cover.

2. Inspect the fusible links to determine which is faulty.

3. Unplug and discard the fusible link.

4. Inspect the box terminals and clean if corroded. If any terminals are damaged, replace the

terminals.

5. Plug in a new fusible link of the same amperage rating.

WARNING

Never exceed the amperage rating of a blown maxi-fuse. If the

replacement fuse also blows, check for a problem in the circuit(s).

Check for proper operation of the affected circuit(s).

Circuit Breakers

RESETTING AND/OR REPLACEMENT

Circuit breakers are located inside the fuse panel. They are automatically reset when the problem

corrects itself, is repaired, or the circuit cools down to allow operation again.

Flashers

REPLACEMENT

Location of the flasher assembly—F-150 models

The turn signal flasher assembly is located under the driver's side of the instrument panel, on the

front of the fuse panel for the 1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models and under the

center section of the instrument panel in the relay/flasher block on all other models.

1997-00 F-150/F-250 engine compartment fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1997-00 F-150/F-250 interior fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models interior fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models engine compartment fuse box

locations—gasoline engines

Click to enlarge

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models engine compartment fuse box

locations—diesel engines

Click to enlarge

1997-00 Expedition and Navigator engine compartment fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1997-00 Expedition and Navigator interior fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models interior fuse box locations

Click to enlarge

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models engine compartment fuse box

locations—gasoline engines

Click to enlarge

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350 and F-Super Duty models engine compartment fuse box

locations—diesel engines

Click to enlarge

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.

Wiring Diagrams

Index of Wiring Diagrams

Sample Diagram: How to Read and Interpret Wiring

Diagrams

Wiring Diagram Symbols

1997-00 F-150/250 4.2L Engine Schematic

1997-00 Expedition/F-150/250 4.6L Engine Schematic

1997-00 Expedition/F 150/250 5.4L Engine Schematic

1997-98 F-250HD/350(Federal)/Super Duty 5.8L/7.5L Engine

Schematic

1997-98 F-250HD/350 (California) 5.8L/7.5L Engine

Schematic

1997-00 7.3L Turbo Diesel Engine Schematic

1998-00 5.4L NGV Engine Schematic

1999-00 6.8L Engine Schematic

1997-00 F-150/250/250HD/350/Super Duty/Expedition

Starting Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250/Expedition Charging, Fuel Pump - F-

150/250/250HD/350/Super Duty/Expedition Washer/Wiper

Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Charging Chassis

Schematics

1999-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Charging Chassis

Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250/Expedition Headlights w/DRL, w/o DRL,

For Lights Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Headlights w/DRL, w/o

DRL Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250 Parking/Marker Lights, Back-up Lights,

Horns Chassis Schematics

1997-98 Expedition Parking/Marker Lights, Cooling Fan,

Back-up Lights, Horns Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Parking/Marker Lights

Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250 Turn/Hazard Lights, Stop Lights Chassis

Schematics

1997-98 Expedition Turn/Hazard Lights, Stop Lights Chassis

Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Turn/Hazard Lights, Stop

Lights Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Fuel Tank Selectors,

Back-up Lights Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty Fog Lights, Fuel Pump,

NGV Tank Valves Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250/250 HD/350/Super Duty Power Window

Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-250 HD/350/Super Duty(crew

cab)/ExpeditionPower Windows Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250/250 HD/350/Super Duty Power Door

Locks w/o RAP Chassis Schematics

1997-00 F-150/250/250 HD/350/Super Duty Power Door

Locks w/ RAP Chassis Schematics

1997-98 Expedition Power Door Locks Chassis Schematics

1997-98 Expedition Windshield Wiper/Washer, Liftgate

Wiper/Washer Chassis Schematics

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.