Adrian Olson ODOM Assembly Manual

www.modelyachting.com

Assembly Manual

Copyright © 2010 Adrian Olson

Adrian Olson Products • 22c Roache Road • Freedom, CA 95019

www.modelyachting.com

Thank you for choosing an ODOM Sailboat Kit.

We firmly believe you will find your ODOM to be fun and relatively easy to build.

Please take the time now to familiarize yourself with this instruction manual and the parts that came in your kit.

These instructions assume that you have purchased the ODOM Standard Kit, ODOM Hardware Kit, Radio,

Sail Servo, Sails and an ODOM Stand Kit from Adrian Olson Products. If you choose to provide your own hardware, sails, radio equipment or sail servo, some of the assembly instructions may have to be modified.

However, please note that there are certain Class Specifications that must be adhered to if you want to race your ODOM. ODOM Class Specifications may be found at our website: (www.modelyachting.com) or the American Model Yachting Association (www.amya.org).

Where possible we have noted which Class Specification relates to each step in these instructions. This symbol ( ) will alert you when a Class Specification applies.

To build your ODOM you will need a few basic tools such as a drill motor and drill bits, small screw drivers, allen wrenches, tape measure, bench vice, razor saw, wire loop pliers, small paint brushes, etc.

You will need a good quality waterproof adhesive such West-Systems Epoxy. (NOTE: Most 5-Minute epoxies are not water proof, they are "water resistant" so check the label). Poxy Marine Adhesive from

Power Poxy is also a good choice. You will also need “Thin CA” (Cyanoacrylate glue or “Super Glue”) and

"Thick CA". Adhesives are available from Adrian Olson Products.

Other materials you will need include Auto Body Glazing Putty (bondo), paint for Keel Bulb, sandpaper, masking tape, solvents for paints and adhesives, etc.

Take your time! - Remember, it's better to build a good boat that sails well tomorrow than to build a bad boat that sails badly today.

Make sure everything is straight and properly aligned! Perhaps more than anything else, improper alignment will have a negative effect on the performance of your ODOM.

Read these instructions carefully and do not skip any steps.

All surfaces to be bonded should be sanded first. This is to assure a proper bond.

The surface of the fiberglass inside the Hull and Deck must be lightly sanded where all bonds will be made. This is to assure a proper bond.

Most importantly .............. HAVE FUN!

Adrian Olson Products Warranty Policy: If it's our fault we will fix it or replace it.

Page 2

© 2010 by Adrian Olson. All rights reserved.

Introduction

Table of Contents

Before You Begin

Optional Boat Stand Kit

Optional Hardware Kit

Additional Options

Section A - Preparing the Hull

Drill Keel Bolt Holes

Drill Rudder Post Hole

Assemble Keelson Block

Forward and Aft Bulkheads

Keelson Top and Braces

Installing Sail Servo Supports

Installing Rudder Servo Supports

Install Interior Assembly

Install Compression Struts

Bond Bulkheads into Hull

Install Rudder Post

Section B - Installing the Electronics

Install Sail Servo

Install Rudder Servo

Installing the Shield

Install Receiver, Switch, and Batteries

Wiring Diagram

Set Up Transmitter

Section C - Installing the Deck

Install Main Hatch Slide

Fit Deck

Glue on the Deck

Section D - Finishing the Keel

Test fit the Keel Bulb

Attach the Keel Bulb

Fillet and Finish

13

13

13

13

14

14

14

14

11

11

11

12

12

12

12

8

9

7

8

6

6

6

6

7

9

10

11

3

4

4

5

5

Section E - Installing Deck Hardware

Layout and Drill Holes

Mount Hardware

Transom Hardware

Sail Control Arm

Rudder Linkage

Section F - Rigging your ODOM

Prepare the Mast

Install Mast Step Pin and Gooseneck/Vang

Assembly

Turnbuckles

Shrouds

Backstay

Prepare the Main Boom

Main Sheet Eye, Downhaul and Outhaul

Install the Main Boom

Jib Club

Jib Tack and Outhaul

Section G - Installing the Sails

Forestay Wire

Attach Jib Club, Topping Lift Line and Outhaul

Installing the Main Sail

Section H - Final Assembly

Install Keel and Rudder

Main Sheet and Jib Sheet

Step the Mast

Soft Spreaders

Hatch Covers and Antenna Wire

A Few Tips

19

19

20

20

20

18

18

19

21

21

21

22

22

22

22

23

23

23

23

15

15

15

16

16

16

17

17

17

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN Take inventory

What you should find in your standard ODOM kit.

A Hull

B Deck

C Mast

D Boom Tube

E Keel Fin, (2) Nuts and Washers

F Keel Bulb

G Rudder

H Rudder Post

I

J

Rudder Post Flange

Fairlead Doubler (2)

K Keelson Block Top Plate

L Keelson Upper & Lower Block

M Keel Bolt Tube

N Forward Bulkhead

O Aft Bulkhead

P Aft Bulkhead Brace

Q Sail Servo Support (2)

R Rudder Servo Support (2)

S Main Hatch Slide

T Main Hatch Cover

U Lazerette Hatch Covers (2)

V Sail Logo

W Shield with Ring

X 1/8” Carbon Fiber Tube

H

I

G

L

E

K

R M

P

Q

F

O

N

U

D

V

S

A

B

T

J

X

W

C

OPTIONAL BOAT STAND KIT

DELUXE BOAT STAND KIT with HOLD-DOWN CORD

• (4) Interlocking Wood Legs

• (2) Wood Side Supports

• (2) Straps, 1" Wide Webbing, 16" long each

• (4) #6 x 3/4" Brass Flat Head Screw

• (4) #6 Wrass Finish Washer

• (2) Male/Female Bolts

• (1) Shock Cord with Slide Locks

Deluxe Boat Stand will remain fully open while allowing straps to remain slack to cradle the boat.

Also the straps remain straight since the legs are not offset. The Shock Cord holds the boat securely in the stand and prevents the boat from sliding fore and aft while transporting.

Figure 2

Page 4


OPTIONAL HARDWARE KIT

Take inventory

What you should find if you purchased an optional ODOM Hardware kit. (some items may be substituted due to availability or to current changes and improvements in model yacht technology.) You may choose to provide your own parts to replace all items in this Hardware Kit.

H1 Gooseneck Assembly

H2 Topping Lift Fitting

H3 Masthead Crane

H4 Rigging Wire

H5 Tang Fitting (2)

H6 Turnbuckle (2)

H7 Sheet Connector (2)

H8 Small Line, 25'

H9 Large Line, 10'

H10 Large Plastic Bowsie (3)

H11 Small Metal Bowsie (6)

H12 Tackle Hook (2)

H13 Tapered Plastic Plug

H14 Rudder Control Arm

H15 Pushrod Wire (2)

H16 Sail Control Arm, (2) Black Screws

H17 Rubber Grommet

H18 Jib Club Dowel

H19 1/2" Pan Head Screw

H20 Socket Head Screw (8)

H21 Kwik Twist Wire Tool

H22 Mast Heel Plug

H23 Mast Step Pin

H24 Mast Step,(2) Flat Head Screws

H25 Sheet Exit Guide (2)

H26 Jib Tack Eye Screw, Slotted Washer

H27 Small Pan Head Screws (2)

H28 Chainplate Eyebolt, Nut, Washer (2)

H29 Ball Joint with Nut

H30 Velcro

4 3

2

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29

18 19

21 8

7

5

25

26

9

17

13 15

14

12

1

11

5 6

30

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16

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24

10

28

ADDITIONAL OPTIONS

S A I LS

Main Sail and Jib Sail are both available from Adrian Olson Products.

You may aquire your sails from any other source as long as they meet the ODOM Class Specification 3.9.1 - 3.9.4

S A I L S E RV O

We recommend Hitec's HS-815BB Mega Sail Servo, available from Adrian Olson Products.

You may use a different Sail Servo as long as it meets ODOM Class Specification 4.3

RADIO EQUIPMENT

The ODOM requires a Transmitter / Receiver kit with a minimum of 2 channels. We recommend using a good quality FM

Transmitter on 75 MHz or a digital 2.4 GHz system. Contact Adrian Olson Products for further information.

You may use other Radio Equipment as long as it meets ODOM Class Specification 4.2 - 4.4

Page 5


SECTION A

STEP 1

Preparing the Hull

Drill Keel Bolt Holes

Turn Hull upside down.

Use a “Step Bit” to drill (2) 3/16” Keel Bolt holes, through the bottom of the Hull, at the locations indicated by the dimples in the bottom of the Hull.

NOTE: The aft, or third dimple is for the Rudder.

Make a small pencil mark 20" forward of the transom (the back of the boat) along the centerline of the Hull.

THIS IS WHERE THE FRONT EDGE OF THE KEEL FIN MUST BE LOCATED. ••• See ODOM Class Specification 3.3.4

Test fit the Keel Fin. Make sure the Keel Fin leading and trailing edges line up on the centerline. If alignment is not perfect, use a 3/16" drill bit to slightly elongate the holes until the Keel Fin is straight.

Correct Incorrect

20" 20"

STEP 2 Drill the Rudder Post Hole

Use a “Step Bit” to drill (1) 1/8” Rudder Shaft hole, through the bottom of the Hull, at the location indicated by the third and aft most dimple.

STEP 3 Assemble Keelson Block

Cut the 7/32” diameter brass tube into two pieces 1 1/16” long.

Insert the two pieces into the holes in the Keelson Lower

Block, as shown.

Page 6

Section View


STEP 3 Assemble Keelson Block (continued)

Slide the Keelson Upper Block onto the tubes. The tubes should protrude above the top 1/16”. Bond the Keelson Block together with CA Glue or PVC cement.

1/16”

Section View

STEP 4 Forward and Aft Bulkheads

Fit the Forward Bulkhead into the notch in the Keelson.

Glue in place.

Fit the Aft Bulkhead onto the back of the Keelson.

It should snap on tightly. Glue in place.

STEP 5 Keelson Top and Braces

Use CA Glue to install the Keelson Top as shown.

The bottom side has holes to fit over the brass tubes.

The Braces fit in the grooves in the Aft Bulkhead and against the sides of the Keelson Top.

Page 7


STEP 6 Installing Sail Servo Supports

Using PVC Glue, CA Glue or epoxy, glue triangle Sail Servo Supports to Aft Floor Frame. Locate them 2 15/16” apart, center to center. These dimensions are for the Hitec HS-815BB Mega Sail Servo. If you are using a different servo, adjust as needed so the center of the pivot is centered port and starboard.

CL

2 15 /

16

"

Hitec HS-815BB Sail Servo

(available from Adrian Olson Products)

Side View

Be sure the corner of the Servo will clear the Hull.

If you are using a different Sail Control Servo, adjust as needed.

STEP 7 Installing Rudder Servo Supports

Attach the Steering Servo Supports to the forward side of the Aft Bulkhead in the same manner as you attached the Sail

Servo Supports. Now is a good time to drill pilot holes for Servo Screws and test mount servos.

Page 8


STEP 8 Install Interior Assembly

Insert interior assembly into Hull and test fit Keel. Make sure assembly is straight and that the Main Bulkhead is square to the centerline of the Hull.

NOTE: The carbon fiber in the Hull may not be square.

Next, mark the Hull where the four corners of the

Keelson make contact.

Remove the interior assembly. Use masking tape to mask around the area indicated by the pencil marks.

Use 80 grit paper to abrade the area inside the tape and the bottom of the Keelson.

Pack the threads of the Keel Bolts with wax to help prevent the epoxy from bonding to the Keel Bolts. Use epoxy to bond Keelson into Hull. Remove any excess epoxy and remove masking tape.

Tip: Use #10-24 wingnuts to clamp Keelson to Hull.

IMPORTANT

(IF YOU EVER WANT TO REMOVE YOUR KEEL) - As the epoxy begins to set up (but before it cures hard), remove the nuts and make sure the Keel can be removed. If necessary, clean any epoxy from the bolts or inside the brass tubes. Repack threads with wax, and reinstall Keel Fin and nuts. Allow epoxy to fully cure.

STEP 9 Install Compression Struts

Cut two equal lengths of 1/8”Ø carbon tubes about 4 3/4” long. They should fit into the grooves in the Keelson top (just in front of the Forward Bulkhead) and extend to the wood rail under the chainplate backup pad forward of the Bulkhead.

The length of these tubes is critical as they could push (or tilt) the Hull to one side.

Page 9


STEP 9 Install Compression Struts (continued)

With the tubes in place, gently clamp the Keel Fin upright in a vice. Be sure to pad the jaws of the vice so you will not damage the Keel.

••• VERY IMPORTANT •••

For your ODOM to sail correctly the Hull and Keel Fin MUST be properly aligned.

Sight the bow and the front of the Keel Fin. They should line up.

If they do not, remove to tubes to be sure that is not the problem. Place a piece of masking tape on both sides of the Hull and Keel, as shown below.

Adjust tension of the masking tape on one side to pull the Hull into proper alignment.

CORRECT ease tap e t ension incr ease tap

INCORRECT e t ension

Once the Hull is properly aligned, reinsert the carbon tubes, make sure they do not change the alignment.

Use epoxy to bond tubes in place.

Drill a 1/8”Ø hole centered in the mast support block,

19 1/4” from the bow. Insert a piece of carbon tube through the block and seat lower end into the 1/8“ hole in Keelson Top.

Drill a second hole in the kingplank 6” from the bow.

Insert a second tube through the kingplank to the bottom of the Hull.

Epoxy both tubes in place.

Trim both tubes flush with the top of the wood.

STEP 10 Bond Bulkheads into Hull

Now that the Compression Struts are installed and the Keel is properly aligned, the Fore and Aft Bulkheads can be bonded in place.

Lightly sand the inside of the Hull along both bulkheads.

Apply a bead of epoxy along the joints of both Bulkheads and the Hull. Be sure to bond both fore and aft sides of the joint.

Allow epoxy to fully cure.

Page 10


STEP 11 Install Rudder Post

Drill a 5/32" hole in the Rudder Post Flange.

Test fit the Rudder: Slide the Rudder Post down through the holes in the Rudder Thwart and the Rudder Post Flange until it contacts the Hull. Install the Rudder up from under the Hull, use the Rudder

Servo Control Horn or a small clamp to hold the Rudder in place.

Check to see that the top edge of the Rudder is parallel with the bottom of the Hull and that the Rudder is in the same plane as the

Keel Fin (that it lines up with the Keel Fin).

If the Rudder is misaligned, slightly elongate the hole in the Rudder

Thwart in the proper direction to allow the top of the Rudder Shaft to shift until the Rudder is properly aligned.

Rudder Post

Rudder Thwart

Rudder Post

Flange

Once you are satisfied with alignment, sand all surfaces to be bonded.

Completed Rudder Post and Flange.

Use epoxy to bond Rudder Post Flange to the inside bottom of Hull.

Be sure to use enough epoxy so there are no voids in the bond (or you may end up with a leak).

Epoxy the upper end of Rudder Post to the Rudder Thwart and lower end of Rudder Post to Rudder Post Flange.

Remove Rudder as epoxy sets up. This will prevent accidentally gluing Rudder into Rudder Post.

SECTION B

STEP 1

Installing the Electronics

Install Sail Servo

Remove the control horn from the Sail Servo. Insert the (4) rubber pads and (4) brass spacers into flange of Sail Servo.

Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes in Sail Servo Mounting

Blocks and fasten with (4) Small Socket Head Screws provided in your Hardware Kit. (It is much easier to remove these screws with a ball end allen wrench later when the Deck is on.)

Use a 5/64" ball end allen wrench.

Be sure the drive pinion on the Servo is toward the center of the Hull as shown.

STEP 2 Install Rudder Servo

Install the (4) rubber pads and (4) brass spacers into flange of

Rudder Servo. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes in Rudder

Servo Mounting Blocks. Install the servo so the drive pinion is toward the center of the Hull as shown, route the wire under the Aft Bulkhead. Fasten with (4) Small Socket Head Screws, just as you did with the Sail Servo.

Page 11


STEP 3 Installing the Shield

Use the supplied paper pattern to cut the plastic Shield to size. Cut out the center hole so that it just fits over the round raised section of the

Hitec 815-BB Sail Servo (if you are using a different Sail Servo the hole may be a different size).

Use CA Glue to bond the Shield Ring to the Shield as shown.

The Shield should now press fit onto the Sail Servo. The Sail Winch

Arm screws will hold the Shield down onto the Servo.

STEP 4 Installing the Receiver, Switch, and Battery

The Receiver and Switch are mounted on the Shield.

The paper Shield pattern indicates the proper location for the Switch so that it will be out of the way of the Winch Arm and Sheets. A slide

Switch or a small toggle Switch will work well.

The Receiver attaches to the underside of the Shield with velcro.

The Battery Pack rests on the bottom of the Hull, along the centerline, as shown. Use velcro to secure.

STEP 5 Wiring Diagram

Connect all the wires as shown in the Diagram. It is a good idea to make sure the wires going to the Receiver are long enough to reach out the Main Hatch when the Deck is on. If you ever have to replace a Servo in the future, it is much easier to simply remove the Receiver and plug everything back in above deck.

6 volt

5-cell pack

STEP 6 Setting up the Transmitter

Page 12


SECTION C

STEP 1

Installing the deck

Install Main Hatch Slide

File the notches and tabs of the Main Hatch Slide and deck support ribs until the Main Hatch Slide fits onto all four notches. The outer forward corners of the Main Hatch Slide should meet flush with top of deck support rib. The deck support rib with three notches should extend up about 1/16" above the Main Hatch Slide, this allows a gap under the

Deck for the Main Hatch to slide into. The tail ends of the Main Hatch Slide should finish flush with the top of the deck support rib with two notches (as shown).

Using epoxy, glue into place.

Trim off excess tail ends of the Main Hatch Slide (as shown in diagram for Section C, Step 3).

1/16" gap flush at corners flush with top of deck support rib deck support rib with three notches deck support rib with two notches

STEP 2 Fit Deck

Carefully clean up the edges of the Main Hatch and the Lazerette Hatch with sandpaper.

**SPECIAL NOTE** Give special attention to Main Hatch opening. The small lip on the underside of the Deck around the Main Hatch must be sanded until there is a 1/16" gap between the Main Hatch Slide and the bottom of the Deck.

Lightly sand the top edge of all deck support ribs and all surfaces that come in contact with the bottom of the Deck.

Also sand the same contact points on the bottom of the Deck.

Center Deck on Hull. Check that the Main Hatch opening is centered port and starboard on the Main Hatch Slide.

Tape Deck onto Hull with several pieces of tape. Turn Hull and Deck upside down and draw a line all the way around the Hull on the underside of the Deck. Sand off most of the excess Deck, leaving only about 1/16” to 1/8” overhang.

STEP 3 Glue on the Deck

Once you are satisfied that the Deck fits properly, put a strip of masking tape (blue Painter’s Masking Tape works well) all the way around the Hull at the Deck/Hull seam. This is to prevent excess adhesive from getting on the outside of the

Hull. (If you use blue Painter’s Masking Tape, do not cover the entire Hull with tape, the tape does not adhere well to itself)

Apply a generous amount of Poxy Marine Adhesive to the top edge of all wood parts that contact the bottom of the Deck.

PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE MAIN HATCH SLIDE AREA: Apply adhesive carefully as shown. The gap for the

Main Hatch MUST be kept clear of adhesive, but the outer edge of the Main Hatch Slide MUST be glued to the bottom of the Deck, or you may end up with a leak.

Position Deck on Hull. Use masking tape to tape the Deck down all the way around. Let adhesive set up overnight.

Once adhesive has cured, remove strips of tape holding Deck down and carefully file off the remaining edge of the Deck until flush with the Hull. Use Acetone to remove any excess adhesive on the boat (such as fingerprints).

Keep 1/16" gap clear of adhesive yes adhesive trim

Deck taped on, waiting for adhesive to cure.

Page 13 no adhesive trim yes adhesive


SECTION D

STEP 1

Finishing the keel

Test fit the Keel Bulb (lead ballast)

Slide bottom threaded rod into the pre-drilled hole in Keel Bulb and check for proper alignment.

Align centerline of Keel Fin with centerline mark in Keel Ballast made by the molding process.

Correct Keel Fin Keel Bulb Incorrect

Top View

Check fore and aft tilt of the Keel Bulb. The Keel Bulb should already be drilled at an 87 ° angle as shown.

Top View

Check that the Keel Bulb aligns with the centerline up and down.

NOTE:

If the Keel Bulb does not align with the

Keel Fin in all three directions as shown, adjust by bending the Threaded Rod slightly.

See ODOM Class Specification 3.3.6

87 °

Correct Incorrect

Side View

STEP 2 Attach the Keel Bulb

Once you are satisfied that the Keel Bulb fits properly, apply a generous amount of Thick CA adhesive to both surfaces to be joined, including the Threaded Rod and the hole in the Keel Bulb. Put parts together and quickly check visually to be sure alignment is correct. Hold parts together with one hand and spray with CA glue accelerator. Hold until CA sets.

If alignment looks good, move on to step 3. If not, you can "crack" the joint, push into place, re-glue or remove Keel Bulb, and try again.

STEP 3 Fillet and Finish

Using Auto Body Glazing Putty (bondo), build a fillet along both sides of the seam between the Keel Fin and Keel Bulb. The fillet may be up to 1/2" radius in size.

See ODOM Class Specification 3.3.8

Fillet Fillet

Coat entire surface of the Keel Bulb with Aluzine Epoxy. Allow to dry, sand smooth.

Repeat until all "low spots" are filled and "high spots" are sanded down. Final sand with

320 grit or higher sandpaper. You may paint your Keel Bulb white or paint your Keel Fin and Keel Bulb to match your Hull.

Page 14


Use a pencil to mark all locations on the Deck, pencil marks can be removed later with Acetone, or place masking tape on the Deck and mark on the tape.

NOTE: All measurements are to the center of the fitting and all

fittings are on the centerline except Chainplates.

Use a “Uni-Bit” or “Step-Bit” to drill a 7/32” diameter hole in the Deck for both the Main and Jib Sheet Exit Guides.

A “Uni-Bit” or “Step-Bit” will help prevent the gelcoat from chipping when drilling the holes.

Glue the Exit Guide Flanges to the underside of the

Deck using CA Glue. Do not glue the Exit Guide in.

Drill two 1/8” holes for Chainplate bolts.

Use a 1/16” diameter drill bit for all the remaining screw holes.

1/16” Dia. Hole for

Jib Sheet Tail

MAST STEP LOCATION:

••• See ODOM Class Specification 3.6.5

& 3.8.4

JIB CLUB TACK LOCATION:


CHAIN PLATE LOCATION:


Jib Sheet Exit Guide with Flange (under Deck)

Mast Step

Clean off pencil marks (or remove masking tape).

Attach the hardware with the screws provided.

Mast Step: Finish Mast Step with fine sandpaper.

Install with (2) small flat head screws.

Chainplates: Insert eyebolts through Deck.

Install nuts and washers under Deck.

Jib Club Tack: Install “Screw Eye” through Slotted

Washer into Deck. Be sure to check orientation of “Eye”.

Main Sheet Exit Guide with Flange (under Deck)

2 1/4”

Chain Plate

“eye bolt”

2 1/4”

1 5 1/4”

19”

19 3/4”

30 1/4”

3/8”

Page 15


STEP 3 Transom Hardware

Place a piece of masking tape down the vertical centerline of the transom. Draw a line down the centerline.

Bend above deck portion of Tang slightly forward so it will point toward the top of the mast. Locate the Backstay Tang along the centerline and drill (2)

1/16" diameter holes for two screws as shown.

Install Tang using (2) 1/4' x #2 Panhead philips screws.

Use a “Uni-Bit” or Step-Bit” to drill a 1/4" diameter hole for Drain Plug on starboard side of transom (also serves as access hole for Rudder Linkage).

Bend here

Screws 5/8"

Drawing not to scale 1 3/4"

STEP 4 Sail Control Arm

Drill (2) 9/64" diameter holes through aluminum Sail Control Arm so that they line up with two holes on the nylon

Servo Disc. Attach as shown using (2) small black pan head screws that came in your Hardware Kit.

Drill

Full Size Pattern (for those of you who want to make your own)

STEP 5 Rudder Pushrod

Cut a 12 1/2” length of 1/8”Ø Carbon Fiber tube. Use CA Glue to bond a piece of #2-56 threaded rod into one end of the tube, and the “Z” bend wire into the other end. Thread the Clevis onto the #2-56 threaded rod. The total length from the “Z” bend to the Clevis Pin should be 13 3/4”.

13 3/4"

If you have not already done so, Assemble your ODOM Boat Stand.

You are now ready for final assembly and rigging.

Page 16


SECTION F

STEP 1

Rigging your ODOM

Prepare the Mast

Your Mast should measure 56 1/2" in length.

If it is longer, trim excess off the top (small end of the Mast).

Cut a slot 1/16" wide by 1/2" deep through the top of the

Mast for the Masthead Crane. (A Dremel 1/16" x 1 1/4" cut-off disc works great)

Insert Masthead Crane. DO NOT GLUE. The longer end is the back.

The Masthead Crane will protrude 1/8" above top of the Mast.

Reinforce the tip of the Mast by wrapping a piece of thread several times around the Mast just under the Masthead Crane. Secure with CA Glue.

Drill one 1/16" diameter hole on both port and starboard sides of the

Mast 7 1/2" down from the top of the Mast (these holes should be 90º to the slot). Then angle the holes toward the top of the Mast.

This is where the Shroud Wires will exit the Mast.

1/2"

Top of Mast

Starb oard

Fro nt

1/16"

Back

Port wrap and glue

7 1/2"

1/16" holes

Drill four 5/64" diameter holes in mounting plate of Gooseneck/Vang Assembly.

Stagger the holes as shown to reduce the weakening effect drilling holes has on the Mast.

Gooseneck/Vang Assembly mounting plate.

Position Gooseneck on the back side of the Mast 1/4" up from the bottom.

Drill four 1/16" diameter pilot holes in Mast.

Blow dust and shavings out of the Mast.

STEP 2 Install Mast Step Pin and Gooseneck/Vang Assembly

Using CA GLue, install the stainless steel pin into the wood dowel portion of the Mast Step Pin. Insert the Mast Step Pin into the bottom of the Mast until the wood dowel is flush with the bottom of the Mast. DO NOT GLUE.

Attach the Gooseneck to the Mast with 4 small screws provided. The lower screws will hit the Mast Dowel. Drill two

1/16" diameter pilot holes into the Mast Step Pin.

Page 17


STEP 3 Turnbuckles

Using wire loop pliers, bend turnbuckles as shown.

Start the bent approximately 1" down the length of the wire.

Trim excess wire.

Unscrew the "Eye" out of the barrel. Thread nut down until 1/4" of thread shows below the nut.

Screw "Eye" back into barrel until it stops against nut.

Total length should now be about 2 7/8", see Full Size Template.

1/4"

"Eye" nut barrel

2 7/8"

STEP 4 Shrouds

1"

Remove the Masthead Crane. Cut (1) 10” and (2) 60" lengths of Rigging Wire.

Insert one end of each 60” Wire up into the shroud exit holes until they come out the top of the Mast. Using your Kwik Twist tool, that came in your Hardware Kit, form a small loop about 1" from the top end of each wire.

(See the Kwik Twist Tool instructions). cut wire

NOTE: For the rest of this manual, whenever you are to attach a wire with a loop and the Kwik Twist Tool, as you’ve done here, these instructions will say "attach with Kwik Twist".

FULL SIZE TEMPLATE

Form a loop in one end of the 10“ Wire and attach it to the bottom of the Mast Head Crane. Form another loop 6” down the wire and attach to both of the Shroud Wire loops. Finally, pull the Shrouds back out of the Mast until the Masthead

Crane seats into the Mast. If the Shrouds end up too long or too short, or the Crane needs to be replaced in the future, simply replace the upper 6”wire and not each Shroud.

7 1/2" 6"

The next step is to get the final length of the Shrouds.

Put a small piece of masking tape on both sides of the

Mast at the Gooseneck.

Make a mark on the tape 2 1/8" up from the bottom of the Mast.

Pull one Shroud Wire at a time down the length of the

Mast and make a slight bend where the Shroud crosses the mark on the tape. Form a loop in each Shroud where the bend is and attach the Turnbuckles using the Kwik

Twist Tool.

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STEP 5 Backstay

Cut a 60” length of Rigging Wire for the backstay. Attach with Kwik Twist one end of wire to aft hole in Masthead Crane.

Put another loop in the wire 54” down. Tie an 8” length of Large String to lower loop.

NOTE: Whenever you tie a string, you should either use a lighter to melt the ends of the string, or use CA Glue on the knot and end of string, to keep it from unraveling and to keep the knot from coming undone.

NOTE: You may wish to use a needle threader to pull the strings through the various holes during the remaining steps.

Thread the string through the two holes in the Bowsie, through the loop in the Backstay Hook, and back through the third hole in the Bowsie. Tie a large knot in the end of the string so it will not pull out of the Bowsie.

Knot

Backstay Hook

STEP 6 Prepare the Main Boom

Cut a 12 1/2” length of the Boom Tube (5/16” dia. carbon fiber tube). Cut a 14 1/4” length for the Jib Club and set aside for now. Drill holes in Main Boom as shown.

NOTE: The only hole that goes all the way through the Boom is the 7/64” dia. hole.

7/64” diameter through top and bottom

1/16” diameter through top only

1/16” diameter through top only

5/16”

1/16” diameter through bottom only

1/16” diameter through bottom only

3/16”

12 1/2”

STEP 7 Main Sheet Eye, Downhaul and Outhaul

Main Sheet Eye: Form a Kwik Twist loop in one end of a small piece of Rigging Wire. Bend the wire at 1/8” away from twist. Trim off end as shown. Using needle nose pliers, push bent end up into 1/16” dia. hole in bottom of Boom. Glue with Thick CA Glue.

Downhaul: Cut an 8” - 10” length of Large String. Insert one end into 1/16” dia. hole in top of Boom, push string until it comes out end of Boom. Tie a large knot in end of string and pull back out of hole until knot jambs inside of Boom. Thread on a Large Plastic Bowsie through two holes only.

Outhaul: Cut a 6” - 8” length of Small String. Tie one end to end of Boom (through 1/16” dia. hole in top of Boom).

Thread on a Small Metal Bowsie through two holes only.

Large Plastic Bowsie

Small Metal Bowsie

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STEP 8 Install the Main Boom

Bend Tang Fitting at first hole up at an approximately 45° angle.

Unscrew Boom Vang to remove Vang Wire from Gooseneck. Push the hook in the end of the Boom

Vang Wire up into the 1/16” dia. hole in bottom of Boom. Position Tang Fitting on top of the Gooseneck

Tab. Slide Boom onto Gooseneck Tab and Tang Fitting and secure with bolt and nut.

NOTE: TIGHTEN NUT ONLY UNTIL SNUG. DO NOT COMPRESS THE BOOM TUBE WALL.

Cut off excess bolt length and add a drop or two of CA Glue to the nut to prevent the nut from coming off.

Re-attach Boom Vang Wire.

Through Bolt and Nut

STEP 9 Jib Club

Drill two 1/16” dia. holes in the Jib Club. One on the top, one on the bottom. Make and Install a Jib Club Eye as you did the Main Sheet Eye. Drill a small pilot hole in the end of the Jib Club Dowel. Install 1/2” Pan Head Screw, leaving 1/4” of threads showing. Install if forward end of Jib Club using Thick CA Glue.

13”

14 1/4”

STEP 10 Jib Tack and Outhaul

Jib Outhaul: Cut a 10” - 12” length of Small String. Tie one end to end of Jib Club (through 1/16” dia. hole in top of

Jib Club). Thread a Small Metal Bowsie through two holes only.

Jib Tack: Slide a Rubber Grommet onto the Jib Club 3“ - 3 1/2” from the forward end. Tightly tie short length of line around the Grommet. The Grommet should not slip down the length of the Jib Club, but you should be able to move it to tune your

ODOM rigging. Attach a Tackle Hook (same hook as used for the Backstay Hook) to other end of the line so the total length, including the Hook, is about 1”.

1"

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SECTION G

STEP 1

Installing the Sails

Forestay Wire

Cut a 60" length of Rigging Wire. Slip the wire down through the sleeve in the luff of the Jib. Form a loop with the

Kwik Twist tool at the both ends so that the finished length of the Forestay Wire is between 52” and 53”. This will depend on the length of the luff sleeve.

Tie a length of large line to the forward hole in the Topping Lift, feed through two holes in a Plastic Bowsie, through the upper Forestay Wire loop, and tie off at the Bowsie. When complete, the entire Forestay, from lower loop to the bottom of the Topping Lift should be 55”

Topping Lift

Large Plastic Bowsie

Jib

52” - 53"

55"

STEP 2 Attach the Jib Club, Topping Lift Line and Outhaul

Remove the screw from the front of the Jib Club, push the screw through the lower wire eye of the Forestay and screw back into the Jib Boom Dowel. Tie a piece of Small String to the second hole in the Topping Lift. Thread on a Metal

Bowsie through two holes only. Feed the String through the eyelet in the top corner of the Jib and then back through the remaining hole in the Metal Bowsie. Tie a knot in the end of the String so it will not slip back out.

Attach the bottom of the Jib with two loops of Small String that will allow the bottom of the sail to just clear the Jib Club.

Outhaul: Feed the Jib Outhaul string through the lower aft eyelet in the Jib Sail, then through the last hole in the Metal Bowsie and tie a knot.

Topping Lift Line: Tie a length of Small String to the aft hole in the Topping Lift. Thread it through two holes in a Metal Bowsie, through the 1/16" hole in

top of the Jib Club and back to the Metal Bowsie.

Tie a knot.

Topping Lift

Jib

Tie a small piece of the Large String to the upper hole in the Topping Lift.

Feed the other end through the three front holes in the Masthead Crane as shown, so that it will not slip.

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STEP 3 Installing the Main Sail

Put your

O

D Logo on the port side of the Main Sail 1" from the front edge and 9" down from the top.

Tie one end of a length of Small String to the top of the Main Sail. Tie the other end to the lower hole in the Masthead

Crane so the top of the Main Sail is approx. 1" below the Masthead Crane.

Feed the Downhaul line through the Boom Tang, up through the grommet in the lower front corner of the Main Sail, back down through the Tang and through the last hole in the Large Plastic Bowsie (then tie a knot).

Attach the Outhaul in the same manner as you did on the Jib Sail. Also add a loop of Small String through the same grommet as the Outhaul and around the Boom.

Tape an 1/8" diameter drill bit or dowel (as a spacer) to the front of the Mast where one of the small grommets is located.

Securely tie a length of Small String through the grommet and around the Mast and spacer. Remove the spacer and repeat for all 8 grommets in front edge of the Main Sail.

SECTION H

STEP 1

Final Assembly

Install the Keel and Rudder

Install the Keel using (2) Nylock Nuts and (2) Washers with rubber seals, rubber side down toward the Keelson Block. Place your ODOM in the boat stand.

Insert the wire end of the Pushrod into the outer hole in the Steering

Control Horn. Install the Rudder into the Rudder Tube. Slide the Steering

Control Horn onto the Rudder Shaft and secure by tightening the set screw with a 3/32" allen wrench (use the Drain Plug hole for easy access).

Attach the Clevis on the forward end of the Pushrod to the steering Servo.

STEP 2 Main Sheet and Jib Sheet

The Main and Jib Sheets are made from Small String and are used to control to movement of the Main and Jib Sails.

Tie a Sheet Connector to one end of each Sheet and rout the Sheets as shown.

Jib Sheet through Chainplate

Small Metal Bowsie

Short end of

Sail Control Arm

1/16" hole Main Sheet Exit Guide

Jib Sheet Exit Guide

Jib Sheet Connector

1/16" hole

Small Metal Bowsie

Long end of

Sail Control Arm

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Main Sheet Connector


STEP 3 Step the Mast

Attach starboard Turnbuckle to starboard Chainplate. Lean the Mast backward enough to attach port Turnbuckle to port

Chainplate. Tilt Mast back up and place Mast Step Pin into center hole of the Mast Step. While holding up the Mast, hook the Jib Tack Hook through the Jib Tack Eye.

Attach the Backstay Hook to the Backstay Tang Fitting. Slide the Bowsie up to tension the Backstay.

Adjust the Turnbuckles until the Mast is straight up port and starboard and the rigging is tensioned.

The Mast should now stand up by itself.

To adjust the Mask Rake (amount of lean fore and aft of the Mast) measure from the top center of the Mast to the tip of the Bow. The measurement should be 60 1/2”. Adjust Headstay length and Backstay length if necessary. This will give you a good place to start when tuning the boat.

Attach the Jib Sheet Connector to the Jib Club Eye, and the Main Sheet Connector to the Main Sheet Eye.

STEP 4 Soft Spreaders

Once the Rig is standing and tensioned properly, Tie one end of piece of small line to the starboard Shroud Wire 25” up from the deck. Wrap the line around the Mast, over itself and tie the other end to the port Shroud (at the same height).

The line should be tight enough to SLIGHTLY pull the Shrouds toward the Mast. Adjust the position of the Mast until it is exactly in the center between the Shrouds. Use a drop of thin CA Glue on each knot (bond to Shrouds) and bond the line to the Mast.

STEP 5 Hatch Covers and Antenna Wire

Drill a small hole in the Main Hatch Cover 1" from the front and centered side to side. Attach the small Ball Joint for the handle. The Main Hatch should fit into the small gap between the bottom of the Deck and the top of the Main Hatch

Slide. If it doesn't slide very well, check to see if there is dried adhesive in the slot. You can use sandpaper to loosen up the fit if needed (be careful not to scratch the Deck).

If you have an older receiver with a long Antenna Wire, feed it under the Rudder Thwart and out through a 1/16" hole in the deck or transom. Wrap the wire loosely around and up the Backstay.

Cover the Lazerette Hatch with a stick on Lazerette Hatch Cover.

Power up your Transmitter. Turn your Receiver switch to "ON". Check to see that the Rudder is working correctly.

Check to see that the Sail Control Servo is working. Make any adjustments needed.

Congratulations! It's time to go sailing!

A FEW TIPS

You may wish to wetsand your Hull using 1200 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper to make it go faster and to remove any small scratches. Buff with buffing compound to bring the shine back up.

Add tell tales to your sails to help you know what the wind is doing out on the water.

Bring extra batteries with you when you go sailing and purchase rechargeable battery packs.

Add some stripes to accent your boat. You can get stripe tape at your local auto parts store.

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