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Section 4 Your Driving and the Road

Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.

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Defensive Driving

Drunken Driving

Control of a Vehicle

Braking

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9 Steering

11 Off Road Recovery

4 11 Passing

4 13 Loss of Control

4 14 Off Road Driving with Your

Four Wheel Drive Vehicle

4 31 Driving at Night

4 33 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

4 37 City Driving

4 38 Freeway Driving

4 39 Before Leaving on a Long Trip

4 40 Highway Hypnosis

4 40 Hill and Mountain Roads

4 42 Winter Driving

4 46 Recreational Vehicle Towing

4 48 Loading Your Vehicle

4 54 Camper Wiring Harness (If Equipped)

4 55 Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab

4 55 Towing a Trailer

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Defensive Driving

The best advice anyone can give about driving is:

Drive defensively.

Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. (See “Safety Belts” in the Index.) yellow blue

Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”

On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means

“always expect the unexpected.”

Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes.

Rear end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.

Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task - such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor - makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury.

Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself.

These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.

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Drunken Driving

Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year.

Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:

D Judgment

D Muscular Coordination

D Vision

D Attentiveness.

Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, over 17,000 annual motor vehicle related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.

Many adults - by some estimates, nearly half the adult population - choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.

There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.

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The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem.

The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:

D The amount of alcohol consumed

D The drinker’s body weight

D The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking

D The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.

According to the American Medical Association, a

180 lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce

(355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a

BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1 1/2 ounces

(45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.

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It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s

BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level.

There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men. yellow blue

Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks.

The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent.

The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.

But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of

0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching

0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.

Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of

0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of

0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!

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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?

A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.

There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking - driver or passenger - is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.

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CAUTION:

Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.

Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious - or even fatal - collision if you drive after drinking.

Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.

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Control of a Vehicle

You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.

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Braking

Braking action involves perception time and reaction time.

First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.

That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.

Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m).

That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important.

And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.

Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.

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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts - heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking - rather than keeping pace with traffic.

This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.

If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.

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Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)

Your vehicle has anti lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.

When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.

If there’s a problem with the anti lock brake system, this warning light will stay on.

See “Anti Lock Brake

System Warning Light” in the Index.

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The anti lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.

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Here’s how anti lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.

You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you.

You slam on the brakes. Here’s what happens with ABS.

A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.

You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.

As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.

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Remember: Anti lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti lock brakes.

Using Anti

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Lock

Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal. On vehicles with four wheel drive, your anti lock brakes work at all times - whether you are in two wheel drive or four wheel drive.

Braking in Emergencies

With anti lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.

Steering

Power Steering

If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.

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Steering Tips

Driving on Curves

It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.

A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why:

Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.

The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.

Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems - steering and acceleration - have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.

What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.

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Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.

If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.

Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.

Steering in Emergencies

There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking - if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room. That’s the time for evasive action - steering around the problem.

Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. (See “Braking in

Emergencies” earlier in this section.) It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.

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An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.

The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.

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Road Recovery

You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.

If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.

You can turn the steering wheel up to one quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.

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Passing

The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?

Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents - the head on collision.

So here are some tips for passing:

D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.

D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.

If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass

(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.

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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.

Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.

D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a

“running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.

D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle.

Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.

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D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)

D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.

D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.

Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.

D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.

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Loss of Control

Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.

In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.

Skidding

In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.

Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not

“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.

The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.

A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.

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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.

Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.

While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide.

You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues - such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface” - and slow down when you have any doubt.

Remember: Any anti lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.

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Off

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Road Driving with Your

Four

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Wheel

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Drive Vehicle

This off road guide is for vehicles that have four wheel drive.

Also, see “Anti Lock Brakes” in the Index.

If your vehicle doesn’t have four wheel drive, you shouldn’t drive off road unless you’re on a level, solid surface.

Off road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards. The greatest of these is the terrain itself.

“Off roading” means you’ve left the great North

American road system behind. Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There are no road signs.

Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill.

In short, you’ve gone right back to nature.

Off road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestions. These will help make your off road driving safer and more enjoyable.

If you think you will need some more ground clearance at the front of your vehicle, you can easily remove the front bumper lower air dam.

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The front bumper lower air dam is held in place by a series of push pins located around the lower edge of the front bumper. The push pins are accessible from underneath the front bumper.

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The following steps must be performed on each of the push pins to remove the air dam:

1. Insert the blade portion of a flat blade screwdriver into the push pin slot and pull downward until the push pin snaps loose.

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2. While continuing to pull downward on the push pin, squeeze and rotate the expandable end of the push pin with a pair of pliers until it releases from the retainer.

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3. Pull the push pins and lower air dam assembly away from the retainers until the lower air dam is free.

When you’re back on roads, though, be sure to replace the air dam.

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NOTICE:

Operating your vehicle for extended periods without the front bumper lower air dam installed can cause improper air flow to the engine and may allow things like fog lamps or tow hooks on the front of your vehicle to be damaged. Always be sure to replace the front bumper air dam when you’re finished off road driving.

To replace the lower air dam:

1. Line up each push pin with it’s intended retainer and push the washer portion of the push pin towards the retainer until it locks into place yellow blue

2. Push the flat end of the push pin towards the retainer until it locks into place, making sure each is secure.

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Before You Go Off-Roading

There are some things to do before you go out. For example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Check to make sure all underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly attached. Be sure you read all the information about your four wheel drive vehicle in this manual. Is there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off roading where you’ll be driving?

If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the necessary permission.

Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving

There are some important things to remember about how to load your vehicle.

D The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.

D Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off road terrain doesn’t toss things around.

CAUTION:

D Cargo on the load floor piled higher than the seatbacks can be thrown forward during a sudden stop. You or your passengers could be injured. Keep cargo below the top of the seatbacks.

D Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be tossed about when driving over rough terrain. You or your passengers can be struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo properly.

D Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s center of gravity, making it more likely to roll over. You can be seriously or fatally injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy loads inside the cargo area, not on the roof.

Keep cargo in the cargo area as far forward and low as possible.

You’ll find other important information in this manual.

See “Vehicle Loading,” “Luggage Carrier” and “Tires” in the Index.

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Environmental Concerns

Off road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying recreation. However, it also raises environmental concerns. GM recognizes these concerns and urges every off roader to follow these basic rules for protecting the environment:

D Always use established trails, roads and areas that have been specially set aside for public off road recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.

D Avoid any driving practice that could damage the environment - shrubs, flowers, trees, grasses - or disturb wildlife (this includes wheel spinning, breaking down trees or unnecessary driving through streams or over soft ground).

D Always carry a litter bag . . . make sure all refuse is removed from any campsite before leaving.

D Take extreme care with open fires (where permitted), camp stoves and lanterns.

D Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other combustible materials that could catch fire from the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.

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Traveling to Remote Areas

It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your route.

You are much less likely to get bad surprises. Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of any blocked or closed roads.

It’s also a good idea to travel with at least one other vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other can help quickly.

Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch can be handy if you get stuck. But you’ll want to know how to use it properly.

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Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving

It’s a good idea to practice in an area that’s safe and close to home before you go into the wilderness.

Off road driving does require some new and different driving skills. Here’s what we mean.

Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms, hands, feet and body, you’ll need to respond to vibrations and vehicle bounce.

Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off road driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep in mind. At higher speeds:

D you approach things faster and you have less time to scan the terrain for obstacles.

D you have less time to react.

D you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over obstacles.

D you’ll need more distance for braking, especially since you’re on an unpaved surface.

CAUTION:

When you’re driving off road, bouncing and quick changes in direction can easily throw you out of position. This could cause you to lose control and crash. So, whether you’re driving on or off the road, you and your passengers should wear safety belts.

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Scanning the Terrain

Off road driving can take you over many different kinds of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain and its many different features. Here are some things to consider.

Surface Conditions. Off roading can take you over hard packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering, acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on, you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning, delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking distances.

Surface Obstacles. Unseen or hidden obstacles can be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle you if you’re not prepared for them. Often these obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some things to consider:

D Is the path ahead clear?

D Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?

D Does the travel take you uphill or downhill? (There’s more discussion of these subjects later.)

D Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction quickly?

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When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your hands if you’re not prepared.

When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles, your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens, even with one or two wheels, you can’t control the vehicle as well or at all.

Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it’s especially important to avoid sudden acceleration, sudden turns or sudden braking.

In a way, off road driving requires a different kind of alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.

There are no road signs, posted speed limits or signal lights. You have to use your own good judgment about what is safe and what isn’t.

Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any road. And this is certainly true for off road driving.

At the very time you need special alertness and driving skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You could have a serious - or even fatal - accident if you drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking.

See “Drunken Driving” in the Index.

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Driving on Off-Road Hills

Off road driving often takes you up, down or across a hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can’t do.

There are some hills that simply can’t be driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.

CAUTION:

Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.

If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive down them, you can’t control your speed. If you drive across them, you will roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness, don’t drive the hill.

Approaching a Hill

When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it’s one of those hills that’s just too steep to climb, descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant incline with only a small change in elevation where you can easily see all the way to the top.

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On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but you may not see this because the crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.

Here are some other things to consider as you approach a hill.

D Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get sharply steeper in places?

D Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the surface cause tire slipping?

D Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you won’t have to make turning maneuvers?

D Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?

D What’s beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an embankment, a drop off, a fence? Get out and walk the hill if you don’t know. It’s the smart way to find out.

D Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.

Driving Uphill

Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you need to take some special steps.

D Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering wheel.

D Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain your speed. Don’t use more power than you need, because you don’t want your wheels to start spinning or sliding.

D Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible.

If the path twists and turns, you might want to find another route.

CAUTION:

Turning or driving across steep hills can be dangerous. You could lose traction, slide sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. When driving up hills, always try to go straight up.

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D Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of the hill.

D Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.

D Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill to let opposing traffic know you’re there.

D Use your headlamps even during the day. They make you more visible to oncoming traffic.

CAUTION:

Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed can cause an accident. There could be a drop off, embankment, cliff, or even another vehicle. You could be seriously injured or killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down and stay alert.

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Q:

What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about to stall, and I can’t make it up the hill?

A:

If this happens, there are some things you should do, and there are some things you must not do.

First, here’s what you should do:

D Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.

D If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R).

D If your engine has stopped running, you’ll need to restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to

PARK (P) (or, shift to NEUTRAL (N) if your vehicle has a manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible in REVERSE (R).

D As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position. This way, you’ll be able to tell if your wheels are straight and maneuver as you back down. It’s best that you back down the hill with your wheels straight rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the wheel too far to the left or right will increase the possibility of a rollover.

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Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or are about to stall, when going up a hill.

D Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into

NEUTRAL (N) (or depressing the clutch, if you have a manual transmission) to “rev up” the engine and regain forward momentum. This won’t work.

Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you could go out of control.

Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle. Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly back straight down.

D Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall your vehicle, it’s steep enough to cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can’t make it up the hill, you must back straight down the hill.

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Q:

Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill and decide I just can’t do it. What should

I do?

A:

Set the parking brake, put your transmission in

PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in

FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) when you leave the vehicle.

Leave it in some gear.

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the manual transmission, even if you’re in gear). This is because the NEUTRAL (N) position on the transfer case overrides the transmission. You or someone else could be injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the transfer case to the NEUTRAL (N) position. Leave the transfer case in the 2 Wheel

High, 4 High or 4 Low position.

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Driving Downhill

When off roading takes you downhill, you’ll want to consider a number of things:

D How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain vehicle control?

D What’s the surface like? Smooth? Rough? Slippery?

Hard packed dirt? Gravel?

D Are there hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?

Logs? Boulders?

D What’s at the bottom of the hill? Is there a hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with large rocks?

If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes and they won’t have to do all the work. Descend slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.

CAUTION:

Heavy braking when going down a hill can cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This could cause loss of control and a serious accident. Apply the brakes lightly when descending a hill and use a low gear to keep vehicle speed under control.

Q:

Are there some things I should not do when driving down a hill?

A:

Yes! These are important because if you ignore them you could lose control and have a serious accident.

D When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you across the incline of the hill. A hill that’s not too steep to drive down may be too steep to drive across.

You could roll over if you don’t drive straight down.

D Never go downhill with the transmission in

NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal depressed in a manual shift. This is called “free wheeling.”

Your brakes will have to do all the work and could overheat and fade.

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Q:

Am I likely to stall when going downhill?

A:

It’s much more likely to happen going uphill. But if it happens going downhill, here’s what to do.

D Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.

Apply the parking brake.

D Shift to PARK (P) (or to NEUTRAL (N) with the manual transmission) and, while still braking, restart the engine.

D Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake, and drive straight down.

D If the engine won’t start, get out and get help.

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Driving Across an Incline

Sooner or later, an off road trail will probably go across the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here are some things to consider:

D A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be too steep to drive across. When you go straight up or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels) reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble end over end. But when you drive across an incline, the much more narrow track width (the distance between the left and right wheels) may not prevent the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also, driving across an incline puts more weight on the downhill wheels.

This could cause a downhill slide or a rollover.

D Surface conditions can be a problem when you drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots, or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip sideways, downhill.

If the vehicle slips sideways, it can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut, etc.) and roll over.

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D Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the incline even worse. If you drive across a rock with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt even more.

For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because the trail goes across the incline doesn’t mean you have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might have rolled over.

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Q:

What if I’m driving across an incline that’s not too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start to slide downhill. What should I do?

A:

If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways, turn downhill. This should help straighten out the vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However, a much better way to prevent this is to get out and

“walk the course” so you know what the surface is like before you drive it.

CAUTION:

Driving across an incline that’s too steep will make your vehicle roll over. You could be seriously injured or killed. If you have any doubt about the steepness of the incline, don’t drive across it. Find another route instead.

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Stalling on an Incline

If your vehicle stalls when you’re crossing an incline, be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll over, you’ll be right in its path.

If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path the vehicle will take if it does roll over.

CAUTION:

Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a vehicle stopped across an incline is dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could be crushed or killed.

Always get out on the uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well clear of the rollover path.

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice

When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels won’t get good traction. You can’t accelerate as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you’ll need longer braking distances.

It’s best to use a low gear when you’re in mud - the deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you don’t get stuck.

When you drive on sand, you’ll sense a change in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating and braking. You may want to reduce the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. This will improve traction.

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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.

On these surfaces, it’s very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.

CAUTION:

Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you and your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surfaces only.

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Find out how deep the water is before you drive through it. If it’s deep enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles or exhaust pipe, don’t try it - you probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage your axle and other vehicle parts.

If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly.

At fast speeds, water splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailpipe is under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. When you go through water, remember that when your brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.

Driving in Water

Light rain causes no special off road driving problems.

But heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.

CAUTION:

Driving through rushing water can be dangerous.

Deep water can sweep your vehicle downstream and you and your passengers could drown. If it’s only shallow water, it can still wash away the ground from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle over. Don’t drive through rushing water.

See “Driving Through Water” in the Index for more information on driving through water.

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After Off-Road Driving

Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the underbody, chassis or under the hood. These accumulations can be a fire hazard.

After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings cleaned and checked. These substances can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.

Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to off road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule for additional information.

Driving at Night

Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.

One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired - by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.

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Here are some tips on night driving.

D Drive defensively.

D Don’t drink and drive.

D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you.

D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.

D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.

D In remote areas, watch for animals.

D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.

No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50 year old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20 year old.

What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.

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You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.

Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean - inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.

Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness - the inability to see in dim light - and aren’t even aware of it.

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads

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Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire to road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.

And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.

The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking.

It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.

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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too.

The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.

But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.

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CAUTION:

Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.

After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.

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Hydroplaning

Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.

This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.

Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.

Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.

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Driving Through Deep Standing Water

NOTICE:

If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.

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Driving Through Flowing Water

CAUTION:

Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.

If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.

Some Other Rainy Weather Tips

D Turn on your low parking lamps

beam headlamps - not just your

- to help make you more visible to others.

D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.

D Have good tires with proper tread depth.

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City Driving

One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.

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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:

D Know the best way to get to where you are going.

Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross country trip.

D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy. (See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”)

D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it.

When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.

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Freeway Driving

Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.

The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too fast or too slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.

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At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.

Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.

Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.

Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your

“blind” spot.

Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.

When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.

The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.

The exit speed is usually posted.

Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.

Before Leaving on a Long Trip

Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh - such as after a day’s work - don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.

Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.

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Here are some things you can check before a trip:

D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?

Are all windows clean inside and outside?

D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?

D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?

D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?

D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble free trip. Is the tread good enough for long distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?

D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?

D Maps: Do you have up to date maps?

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Highway Hypnosis

Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.

There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.

What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.

Then here are some tips:

D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior.

D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.

D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.

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Hill and Mountain Roads

Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.

If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable. (See “Off Road

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D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.

D Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.

CAUTION:

If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.

CAUTION:

Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill.

You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.

D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.

D Stay in your own lane when driving on two lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.

D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.

D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.

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Winter Driving

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Here are some tips for winter driving:

D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.

D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.

Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.

Driving on Snow or Ice

Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction.

However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.

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What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32

_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall.

Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.

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Whatever the condition or loose snow

- smooth ice, packed, blowing

- drive with caution.

Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.

If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.

Your anti lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti Lock” in the Index.

D Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.

D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.

Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.

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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard

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D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.

D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.

If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats - anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.

If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:

D Turn on your hazard flashers.

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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.

CAUTION:

Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.

This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there.

Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.

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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a well charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.

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Recreational Vehicle Towing

There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for use at your destination. Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment.

When towing your vehicle, turn the ignition to OFF.

To prevent your battery from draining while towing, remove the IGN 0 fuse from the instrument panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach your destination. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.

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Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

Two wheel drive vehicles, should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Two wheel drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground.

In rare cases when it’s unavoidable that a two wheel drive vehicle is to be towed with all four wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable service manual removal/installation procedure.

Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by removing the propeller shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check the transmission fluid level before driving the truck.

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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles

CAUTION:

Shifting the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N) can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P), for an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured.

Make sure the parking brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case into NEUTRAL (N).

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Use the following procedure to correctly tow your vehicle on all four wheels:

1. Firmly set the parking brake.

2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P), or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).

3. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow vehicle.

4. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See

“Four Wheel Drive” in the Index for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.

5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.

6. Turn the ignition to OFF. The OFF position unlocks the steering column and reduces battery drain as long as the IGN 0 fuse is removed. Unlocking the steering column will allow the proper movement of the front wheels and tires during towing.

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Loading Your Vehicle

The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab.

The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR

(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.

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The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle

Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline.

Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the

GAWR for either the front or rear axle.

The Certification/Tire label also contains information about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See “Front

Axle Reserve Capacity” later in this section.

And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.

CAUTION:

In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.

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NOTICE:

Some vehicles may be equipped with RPO VYU

(snow plow prep package). With this option, the payload your vehicle can carry is reduced when a snow plow is installed. Your vehicle can be damaged if either the front or rear axle ratings, or the GVW are exceeded.

As a general guideline, with a 650 lb. (295 kg) snow plow, the weight of the occupants and cargo must not exceed 300 lb. (135 kg). However, this may depend on the vehicle’s option content.

Therefore, to help avoid vehicle damage:

D Make sure the weight on the front and rear axles does not exceed their respective axle ratings.

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NOTICE: (Continued)

D For the front axle, if more cargo or passengers need to be carried, appropriate counter ballast must be installed rear of the rear axle and properly secured.

D Total vehicle weight must not exceed the

GVW rating.

D See your dealer for advice and information about using a snow plow on your vehicle.

CAUTION:

Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the

GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear

GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.

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Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.

This will help you decide how much cargo and installed equipment your truck can carry.

Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.

If you put things inside your vehicle - like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else - they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.

CAUTION:

Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.

D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.

Try to spread the weight evenly.

D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.

D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in your vehicle.

D When you carry something inside the vehicle, secure it whenever you can.

D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless you need to.

There’s also important loading information for off road driving in this manual. See “Loading Your Vehicle for

Off Road Driving” in the Index.

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Front Axle Reserve Capacity

This is the difference between your front GAWR and the front axle weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your front axle before reaching your front GAWR.

The front axle reserve capacity for your vehicle can be found in the lower right corner of the tire/certification label, as shown in this example.

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In order to calculate the amount of weight any front accessory is adding to the front axle, use the following formula.

(W x (A+W.B.)) / W.B.= Weight the accessory is adding to the front axle

Where: W= Weight of added accessory

A= Distance that the accessory is in front of the front axle

W.B.= Vehicle Wheelbase

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For example, adding a 700 lbs. (318 kg) snow plow adds more than 700 lbs. (318 kg) to the front axle.

Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft. (122 cm) in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft.

(305 cm), then:

W= 700 lbs. (318 kg), A= 4 ft. (122 cm) and W.B.=

10 ft. (305 cm)

(W x (A+W.B.)) / W.B. = (700 x (4ft. + 10 ft.)) /

10 ft. = 980 lbs.

So, if your truck’s front axle reserve capacity is more than 980 lbs. (445 kg), you could add this snow plow without exceeding the front GAWR.

You can add heavier equipment on the front of the vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer passengers, less cargo or by positioning cargo more towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.

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Total Vehicle Reserve Capacity

This is the difference between your GVWR and the weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It is the amount of weight you can add to your vehicle before reaching your GVWR.

The reserve capacity numbers are intended as a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of your truck’s front, rear or total weight, go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this.

Truck-Camper Loading Information

This label is inside your glove box. It will tell you if your vehicle can carry a slide in camper, how much of a load your vehicle can carry, and how to correctly spread out your load. Also, it will help you match the right slide in camper to your vehicle.

When you carry a slide in camper, the total cargo load of your vehicle is the weight of the camper, plus

D everything else added to the camper after it left the factory,

D everything in the camper and

D all the people inside.

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The Cargo Weight Rating (CWR) is the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But, you can figure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat.

The total cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.

Refer to the Truck Camper Loading Information label in glove box for dimensions A and B as shown in the following illustration.

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Here is an example of proper truck and camper match:

Use the rear edge of the load floor for measurement purposes. The recommended location for the cargo center of gravity is at point C for the CWR. It is the point where the mass of a body is concentrated and, if suspended at that point, would balance the front and rear.

A. Camper Center of Gravity

B. Recommended Center of Gravity Location Zone

The camper’s center of gravity should fall within the center of gravity zone for your vehicle’s cargo load.

You must weigh any accessories or other equipment that you add to your vehicle. Then, subtract this extra weight from the CWR. This extra weight may shorten the center of gravity zone of your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this.

If your slide in camper and its load weighs less than the

CWR, the center of gravity zone for your vehicle may be larger.

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Your dealer can help you make a good vehicle camper match. He’ll also help you determine your CWR.

After you’ve loaded your vehicle and camper, drive to a weigh station and weigh the front and rear wheels separately. This will tell you the loads on your axles.

The loads on the front and rear axles shouldn’t be more than either of the GAWRs. The total of the axle loads should not be more than the GVWR.

Open your driver’s door and look at the

Certification/Tire label to find out your GAWR and GVWR.

If you’ve gone over your weight ratings, move or take out some things until all the weight falls below the ratings. Of course, you should always tie down any loose items when you load your vehicle or camper.

When you install and load your slide in camper, check the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you want more information on curb weights, cargo weights, Cargo Weight Rating and the correct center of gravity zone for your vehicle, your dealer can help you.

Just ask for a copy of “Consumer Information,

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Trailer Recommendations

You must subtract your hitch loads from the CWR for your vehicle. Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you won’t go over the GVWR or

GAWR. If you are using a weight distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the equalizer bars in place.

You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.

For more information, see “Trailer Towing” in the Index.

Camper Wiring Harness

(If Equipped)

If your vehicle is equipped with a camper wiring harness see “Trailer Wiring Harness” in the Index for further information.

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Pickup Conversion to Chassis Cab

General Motors is aware that some vehicle owners may consider having the pickup box removed and a commercial or recreational body installed. Before you do so, first contact the GM Customer Assistance Office for your area for information on such conversions specific to this vehicle. (See the “Warranty and Owner

Assistance” booklet for Customer Assistance Office.)

Owners should be aware that, as manufactured, there are differences between a chassis cab and a pickup with the box removed which may affect vehicle safety. The components necessary to adapt a pickup to permit its safe use with a specialized body should be installed by a body builder in accordance with the information available from the Customer Assistance Office.

Towing a Trailer

CAUTION:

If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well - or even at all. You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

NOTICE:

Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.

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Your vehicle may be able to tow a trailer. To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in “Weight of the

Trailer” that appears later in this section.

If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.

Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.

That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.

Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers. So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer

If you do, here are some important points:

D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.

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D Consider using a sway control if your trailer will weigh less than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You should always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper. You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles

(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

D If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often

(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.

Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear). See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index.

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Three important considerations have to do with weight:

D the weight of the trailer,

D the weight of the trailer tongue

D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.

Tow/Haul Mode (If Equipped)

Tow/haul is a feature on automatic transmission equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load. The purpose of the tow/haul mode is to:

D Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

D Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when the vehicle is unloaded.

D Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

Automatic transmission equipped vehicles are provided with a button at the end of the shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul. When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument panel will illuminate to indicate that tow/haul has been selected. yellow blue

Tow/haul may be turned off by pressing the button again, at which time the indicator light on the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started.

Tow/haul is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).

Tow/haul is most useful under the following driving conditions:

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load through rolling terrain.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in stop and go traffic.

D When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load in busy parking lots where improved low speed control of the vehicle is desired.

Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However, there is no benefit to the selection of tow/haul when the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.

Tow/haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.

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Weight of the Trailer

How heavy can a trailer safely be?

It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.

Use one of the following charts to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.

Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.

Above the 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the handling/trailering suspension is required on C 1500 models and the handling/trailering or off road suspension is required on K 1500 models. The engine oil cooler is required on C/K 2500 models with the

VORTEC 6000 engine. Refer to the Trailering Guide for oil cooler recommendations.

C 1500 (2WD)*

Engine (Trans.) Axle

Ratio

4300 V6 (Auto) 3.08

3.42

3.73

4300 V6 (Manual) 3.08

3.42

4800 V8 (Auto) 3.42

3.73

4800 V8 (Manual) 3.42

3.73

5300 V8 3.42

3.73

Max. Trailer Wt.

4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)

4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg)

5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg)

3,500 lbs. (1 588 kg)

4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)

6,000 lbs. (2 722 kg)

7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)

4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)

5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg)

7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)

8,200 lbs. (3 720 kg)

* Weight distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum.

Fifth wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

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K 1500 (4WD)*

Engine (Trans.) Axle

Ratio

4300 V6 (Auto) 3.42

3.73

4300 V6 (Manual) 3.42

4800 V8 (Auto)

3.73

3.73

4.10

4800 V8 (Manual) 3.73

5300 V8

4.10

3.73

4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)

4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg)

3,500 lbs. (1 588 kg)

4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)

6,500 lbs. (2 948 kg)

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg)

5,500 lbs. (2 495 kg)

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg)

* Weight distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of hitch pulling weight 1,000 lb. (454 kg) maximum.

Fifth wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of hitch pulling weight 1,500 lb (680 kg) maximum.

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C 2500 LD (2WD)*

Engine

5300 V8

6000 V8

6.5 L Diesel

3.42

3.73

4.10

3.42

Axle

Ratio

3.42

3.73

4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

6,500 lbs. (2 948 kg)

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)

10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg)

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

* Weight distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to 15% of hitch pulling weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum.

Fifth wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of hitch pulling weight 2,000 lb (907 kg) maximum.

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C 2500 HD (2WD)*

Engine

6000 V8

6.5 L Diesel

Axle

Ratio

3.42

3.73

4.10

3.42

4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)

8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)

10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg)

11,000 lbs. (4 990 kg)

11,000 lbs. (4 990 kg)

* Weight distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to

15% of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum.

Fifth wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum.

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K 2500 HD (4WD)*

Engine

6000 V8

6.5 L Diesel

Axle

Ratio

3.73

4.10

3.42

4.10

Max. Trailer Wt.

8,000 lbs. (3 629 kg)

10,000 lbs. (4 536 kg)

10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg)

10,500 lbs. (4 763 kg)

* Weight distributing hitch tongue weight 10% to

15% of hitch weight 1,200 lb. (544 kg) maximum.

Fifth wheel hitch tongue weight 15% to 25% of hitch weight 2,500 lb (1 134 kg) maximum.

You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your

Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.

In Canada, write to:

General Motors of Canada Limited

Customer Communication Centre

1908 Colonel Sam Drive

Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7

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Weight of the Trailer Tongue

The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight

(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading

Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.

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If you’re using a weight carrying or a weight distributing hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight for your vehicle.

After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.

Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires

Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the

Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.

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Hitches

It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.

Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are some rules to follow:

D If you use a step bumper hitch, your bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have ample room when turning to avoid contact between the trailer and the bumper.

D If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted, weight distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving.

Safety Chains

You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.

Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. If you have the factory installed trailering package, and for

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yellow blue trailers up to 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) you may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig.

Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.

Trailer Brakes

If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes - and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.

Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:

D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi

(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

D The trailer’s brake system will use less than

0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.

If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.

Driving with a Trailer

Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.

Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.

Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform

(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.

During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.

While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.

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Following Distance

Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.

Passing

You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.

Backing Up

Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.

Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.

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Making Turns

NOTICE:

Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.

When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.

Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer

The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.

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When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.

Driving On Grades

Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.

If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in

DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission to

THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).

You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode” in the Index.

If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in

FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).

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When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off.

If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine

Overheating” in the Index.

Parking on Hills

CAUTION:

You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.

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But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:

1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into

PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission.

2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.

3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.

4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.

5. If you have a four wheel drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear and not in

NEUTRAL (N).

6. Release the regular brakes.

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CAUTION:

It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.

If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow.

Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set.

If the transfer case on four wheel drive vehicles is in NEUTRAL (N), your vehicle will be free to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in

NEUTRAL (N).

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When You Are Ready to Leave After

Parking on a Hill

1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:

D Start your engine;

D Shift into a gear; and

D Release the parking brake.

2. Let up on the brake pedal.

3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.

4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.

Maintenance When Trailer Towing

Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly.

If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip.

Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.

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Trailer Wiring Harness

Your vehicle is equipped with one of the following wiring harnesses for towing a trailer or hauling a slide in camper.

Basic Trailer Wiring Package

All regular and extended cab pickups have a six wire trailer towing harness.

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The six wire harness is located at the rear of the vehicle and is tied to the vehicle’s frame. The harness requires the installation of a trailer wiring harness connector, which is available through your dealer.

The six wire harness contains the following trailer circuits:

D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal

D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal

D Brown: Taillamps

D White: Ground

D Light Green: Back up Lamps

D Light Blue: Center High

Stoplamp (CHMSL)

Mounted

If you need to upgrade your vehicle to heavy duty trailering, a brake controller harness and an underbody harness with a seven pin universal heavy duty trailer connector are available from your dealer.

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Heavy

-

Duty Trailer Wiring Package (If Equipped)

Your pickup may be equipped with the eight wire trailer towing harness. This harness with a seven pin universal heavy duty trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the platform hitch.*

* The Center High Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a trailer, slide in camper or cap.

The eight wire harness contains the following trailer circuits:

D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal

D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal

D Brown: Taillamps

D White: Ground

D Light Green: Back up Lamps

D Light Blue: CHMSL

D Red: Battery Feed

D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake

A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See“Instrument Panel Jumper

Wiring Harness” later in this section.)

If you need to tow a light duty trailer with a standard four way round pin connector, an adapter connector is available from your dealer.

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Camper/Fifth

-

Wheel Trailer Wiring Package

(If Equipped)

The eight wire camper harness is located under the front edge of the pickup box on the driver’s side of the vehicle, attached to the frame bracket. A connector will have to be added to the wiring harness which connects to the camper.

The eight wire harness contains the following camper/trailer circuits:

D Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal

D Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal

D Brown: Taillamps

D White: Ground

D Light Green: Back up Lamps

D Light Blue: Center High

Stoplamp (CHMSL)

Mounted

D Red: Battery Feed

D Dark Blue: Trailer Brake

A jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller and a trailer battery feed fuse are included with this trailering package. (See“Instrument Panel Jumper

Wiring Harness” later in this section.)

If your vehicle is equipped with the “Heavy

Trailering” option, please refer to “Heavy

Duty

Duty Trailer

Wiring Package”, earlier in this section.

When the camper wiring harness is ordered without the heavy duty trailering package, an eight wire harness with a seven pin connector and separate CHMSL connector are located at the rear of the vehicle and are tied to the vehicle’s frame.

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Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness

Auxiliary Battery (If Equipped)

The auxiliary battery provision can be used to supply electrical power to additional equipment that you may choose to add, such as a slide in camper.

If your vehicle has this provision, this relay will be located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle, next to the auxiliary battery.

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This harness is included with the heavy duty and camper/fifth wheel trailer wiring packages. The harness is for an electric trailer brake controller and includes a trailer battery feed fuse. This harness and fuse should be installed by your dealer or a qualified service center.

When using this provision, connection should only be made to the upper stud (A) of the relay. Do not make connections to the lower stud (B) of the relay.

The auxiliary battery circuit is protected by a megafuse located behind the auxiliary battery.

Be sure to follow the proper installation instructions that are included with any electrical equipment that you install.

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NOTICE:

When using the auxiliary battery provision, the electrical load must not exceed 30 amps. Always turn off any electrical equipment when not in use.

Leaving electrical equipment on for extended periods will drain your battery.

Power Winches

If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.

NOTICE:

Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).

Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.

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Step-Bumper Pad

If your vehicle has a rear step bumper, it may be equipped with a rear step pad at the center of the bumper.

If you will be using the bumper to tow a trailer, you must remove the center cutout circle to install the trailer ball.

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