Section 5 Problems on the Road

Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.

5 2

5 2

5 3

5 8

5 8

Hazard Warning Flashers

Other Warning Devices

Jump Starting

Towing Your Vehicle

Engine Overheating

5 10

Cooling System

5 18

Engine Fan Noise

5 18

If a Tire Goes Flat

5 19

Changing a Flat Tire

5 34

Spare Tire

5 35

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow

5-

5-1

Hazard Warning Flashers

The hazard warning flasher button is located on the top of the steering column.

Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.

Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.

Press the button to make the front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to turn the flashers off.

When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work. The flashers will stop if you step on the brake.

Other Warning Devices

If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.

5-2

Jump Starting

If your battery has run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. Be sure to the follow the steps below to do it safely.

CAUTION:

Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:

D They contain acid that can burn you.

D They contain gas that can explode or ignite.

D They contain enough electricity to burn you.

If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.

NOTICE:

Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

The ACDelco

R

battery in your vehicle has a built in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint.

Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.

5-3

1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12 volt battery with a negative ground system.

NOTICE:

If the other system isn’t a 12 volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.

NOTICE:

If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.

To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake. If you have a four wheel drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is not in NEUTRAL (N).

3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or in the accessory power outlets. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t needed. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. And it could save your radio!

4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative ( ) terminal locations on each vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location of the battery.

5-4

CAUTION:

Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.

Be sure the battery has enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco

R

battery

(or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle.

But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.

Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.

Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.

CAUTION:

Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.

5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.

The vehicles could be damaged too.

Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one. Negative ( ) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote negative ( ) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t connect positive (+) to negative ( ) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the negative ( ) cable to the negative ( ) terminal on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.

5-5

5-6

6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

8. Now connect the black negative ( ) cable to the negative ( ) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote negative ( ) terminal if the vehicle has one.

7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.

Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative ( ) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part, or to a remote negative ( ) terminal on the vehicle with the dead battery.

9. Connect the other end of the negative ( ) cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, and the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.

10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for awhile.

11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.

If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.

NOTICE:

Damage to your vehicle may result from electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care that they don’t touch each other or any other metal. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.

Jumper Cable Removal

A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part

B. Good Battery

C. Dead Battery

5-7

To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:

1. Disconnect the black negative ( ) cable from the vehicle that had the dead battery.

2. Disconnect the black negative ( ) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.

4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle.

Towing Your Vehicle

Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See

“Roadside Assistance” in the Index. If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome), see

“Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.

Engine Overheating

You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Gages” in the Index.

If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

5-8

CAUTION:

Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.

If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool.

If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine

If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:

D Climb a long hill on a hot day.

D Stop after high speed driving.

D Idle for long periods in traffic.

D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.

If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:

1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off.

2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary.

3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving - DRIVE (D) or THIRD (3) for automatic transmissions, FIFTH (5) gear for manual transmissions.

NOTICE:

If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty.

5-9

If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.

If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally.

If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.

If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for three minutes while you’re parked. push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked.

If you still have the warning, turn off the engine and get

everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down.

You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.

Cooling System

When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:

A. Coolant Recovery Tank

B. Radiator Pressure Cap

C. Engine Cooling Fan

If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface.

5-10

When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at least up to the ADD mark. If it isn’t, you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.

CAUTION:

Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned.

Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned.

Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.

If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.

The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.

5-11

NOTICE:

Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.

NOTICE:

When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX COOL

R

(silicate free) coolant.

If coolant other than DEX COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at

30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX COOL

R

is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.

How to Add Coolant to the Coolant

Recovery Tank

If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at the ADD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean,

drinkable water and DEX COOL

R

engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine Coolant” in the

Index for more information.

CAUTION:

Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned.

Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX COOL

R

coolant.

5-12

NOTICE:

In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.

Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.

CAUTION:

You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.

When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at the

ADD mark, start your vehicle.

If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.

5-13

CAUTION:

Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.

5-14

How to Add Coolant to the Radiator

1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)

If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.

2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.

5-15

3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX COOL

R coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See

“Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.

4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to ADD mark.

5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.

5-16

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan.

7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX COOL

R

coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.

8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrow on the pressure cap lines up like this.

5-17

Engine Fan Noise

This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise.

This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.

You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.

If a Tire Goes Flat

It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.

But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:

If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.

Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.

A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop - well off the road if possible.

If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-18

Changing a Flat Tire

If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your hazard warning flashers.

CAUTION:

Changing a tire can cause an injury. The vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over you or other people. You and they could be badly injured.

Find a level place to change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle from moving:

1. Set the parking brake firmly.

2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever in PARK (P) or shift a manual transmission to FIRST (1) or REVERSE (R).

3. If you have a four wheel drive vehicle, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear - not in NEUTRAL.

CAUTION: (Continued)

CAUTION: (Continued)

4. Turn off the engine.

5. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear of the tire farthest away from the one being changed. That would be the tire on the other side of the vehicle, at the opposite end.

The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and change a tire.

5-19

Removing the Spare Tire and Tools

The jacking equipment you’ll need is stored along the driver’s side inner rear quarter panel. In some cases, you may have to remove the spare tire in order to reach the jack. Your vehicle is also equipped with work gloves and a plastic ground mat to assist in the changing of a flat tire.

The following instructions explain how to remove the spare tire, depending on where it is mounted on your vehicle. See “Spare Tire” or “Compact Spare Tire” later in this section for more information about the spare.

1. To remove your jack cover, pull up on the latch(es) on the cover.

Remove the wheel blocks, jack and wheel wrench.

NOTICE:

Never remove or restow a tire from/to a stowage position under the vehicle while the vehicle is supported by a jack. Always tighten the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle when restowing.

2. To remove the underbody mounted spare, insert the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, into the hoist shaft hole in the rear bumper. Be sure the chisel end of the wheel wrench connects into the hoist shaft.

5-20

3. Turn the wheel wrench counterclockwise to lower the spare tire. Keep turning the wheel wrench until the spare tire has been completely lowered. Tilt the retainer at the end of the cable and pull it through the wheel opening. Pull the tire out from under the vehicle.

NOTICE:

To help avoid vehicle damage, do not drive the vehicle before the cable is properly stored.

If you have an inside mounted spare tire, the tire must be removed in order to have access to the jack storage.

To remove an inside mounted spare tire, reach into your tire’s cover and unscrew the wing nut at the center of the wheel. Remove it and the retainer.

Unhook the tire from the mounting bracket and remove the cover.

To remove a rear mounted spare tire, first make sure that the carrier arm is fully latched to the endgate.

Then remove the spare tire cover.

The locking wheel nut can be removed by snapping the rubber weather cover off the face of the lock case.

5-21

Insert the key and pull the lock case straight off. It is not necessary to turn the key.

Put the spare tire near the flat tire.

The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A) and wheel wrench (B). Your vehicle may also have an optional hub cap removal tool.

5-22

Removing the Wheel Cover

Position the chisel end of your wheel wrench, or the hub cap removal tool (if equipped), in the notch of the hub cap and pry off the hub cap.

Some of the molded plastic hub caps have imitation wheel nuts molded into them. The wheel wrench won’t fit these imitation nuts, so don’t try to remove them with the socket end of the wheel wrench.

If you have individual wheel nut caps that cover each nut, they must be removed in order to get to the wheel nuts. Use the socket end of the wheel wrench to remove the wheel nut caps.

Your wheel nut caps may attach your hub cap to the wheel. Remove these wheel nut caps before you take off the hub cap.

5-23

Removing the Flat Tire and Installing the

Spare Tire

1. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts.

Don’t remove them yet.

2. Turn the jack handle clockwise to raise the jack lift head.

3. Fit the jack into the appropriate hole nearest the flat tire.

A. Front Frame Hole

B. Rear Frame Hole (2 Door) or Spring Hanger

Hole (4 Door)

5-24

CAUTION:

Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack, you could be badly injured or killed. Never get under a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.

CAUTION:

Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly positioned can damage the vehicle and even make the vehicle fall. To help avoid personal injury and vehicle damage, be sure to fit the jack lift head into the proper location before raising the vehicle.

4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to fit underneath the wheel well.

5. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the flat tire.

5-25

5-26

6. Remove any rust or dirt from the wheel bolts, mounting surfaces and spare wheel.

CAUTION:

Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.

CAUTION:

Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.

7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.

8. Put the nuts on by hand. Make sure the rounded end is toward the wheel.

Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand, use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as soon as possible.

5-27

9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.

5-28

10. Use the wrench to tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence as shown.

CAUTION:

Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident.

Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.

Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to 100 lb ft (140 N·m).

NOTICE:

Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specification.

5-29

Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools

CAUTION:

Storing a jack, a tire or other equipment in the passenger compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these in the proper place.

NOTICE:

An aluminum wheel with a flat tire should always be stored under the vehicle with the hoist.

However, storing it that way for an extended period could damage the wheel. To avoid this, have the wheel repaired as soon as possible.

A. Retainer

B. Valve Stem

(Pointed Down)

C. Spare or Flat Tire

D. Spring

Follow this diagram to store the underbody mounted spare.

E. Wheel Wrench

F. Lower

G. Raise

H. Hoist Arm

5-30

1. Put the tire on the ground at the rear of the vehicle, with the valve stem pointed down and to the rear.

2. Pull the retainer through the wheel.

3. Put the chisel end of the wheel wrench, on an angle, through the hole in the rear bumper and into the hoist shaft.

4. Raise the tire fully against the underside of the vehicle. Continue turning the wheel wrench until the tire is secure and the cable is tight. The spare tire hoist cannot be overtightened.

5. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable.

5-31

Follow this diagram for the inside mounted spare.

Follow this diagram for the rear mounted spare.

A. Spare or Flat Tire

B. Retainer

C. Nut

D. Wheel Carrier

E. Hook

5-32

A. Wheel Carrier

B. Spare or Flat Tire

C. Wheel Nut and Locking Nut Cylinder

6. Reinstall the locking wheel nut using the wheel wrench. Then push the lock case onto the lug nut until it stops. The key does not have to be inserted into the lock. Push the lock case to be sure it is secured. The special lug nut and lock case is not intended to be used on any road wheel, only on the spare wheel carrier. Tighten the nuts on the wheel carrier to 22 to 32 lb ft (30 to 40 N·m).

CAUTION:

Make sure the tire and carrier are secure.

Driving with the tire or carrier unlatched could injure pedestrians or damage the vehicle.

7. Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper location in your vehicle’s rear area.

Secure the items and replace the jack cover.

Use the following diagram as a guide.

A. Retainer

B. Rubber Band

(Some Models)

C. Work Gloves

D. Mat

E. Jack Storage Cover

F. Wheel Blocks

G. Hub Cap

Removal Tool

(Some Models)

H. Wheel Wrench

I. Jack

J. Jacking Instructions

5-33

Spare Tire

Your vehicle, when new, had a fully inflated spare tire.

A spare tire, whether compact size or full size, may lose air over time, so check its inflation pressure regularly.

See “Inflation Tire Pressure” and “Loading Your

Vehicle” in the Index, for information regarding proper tire inflation and loading your vehicle. For instruction on how to remove, install or store a spare tire, see

“Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index.

After installing the spare tire on your vehicle, you should stop as soon as possible and make sure the spare is correctly inflated. Have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced as soon as you can and installed back onto your vehicle. This way, a spare tire will be available in case you need it again.

Don’t mix tires and wheels of different sizes, because they won’t fit. Keep your spare tire and its wheel together.

If your vehicle has the Xtreme t Sport Appearance

Package (RPO V4A), the spare tire is smaller than your vehicle’s original road tires, so don’t include the spare in the tire rotation.

Compact Spare Tire (If Equipped)

The compact spare tire is a temporary replacement tire made to perform at speeds up to 65 mph (105 km/h) and for distances up to 3,000 miles (5 000 km). With the compact spare installed, you can finish your trip and then have the damaged or flat road tire repaired or replaced. Of course, it’s best to repair or replace the damaged road tire as soon as you can. Your compact spare tire will last longer and be in good shape in case you need it again.

The compact spare may lose air after a time, so check the inflation pressure regularly. After installing the compact spare on your vehicle, stop as soon as possible and make sure it’s correctly inflated. It should be 60 psi (420 kPa).

Don’t use your compact spare on other vehicles and don’t mix your compact spare tire or wheel with other wheels or tires, they won’t fit. Keep your compact spare and its wheel together. Don’t include the compact spare in your tire rotation.

5-34

NOTICE:

When the compact spare is installed, don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash with guide rails. The compact spare can get caught on the rails. That can damage the tire and wheel, and maybe other parts of your vehicle.

Tire chains won’t fit your compact spare. Using them can damage your vehicle and can damage the chains too. Don’t use tire chains on your compact spare.

If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,

Ice or Snow

In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.

CAUTION:

If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.

NOTICE:

Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.

For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.

5-35

Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out

First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a four wheel drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear

(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or

SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.

If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.

Using the Recovery Hooks

Your vehicle may be equipped with recovery hooks. The hooks are provided at the front of your vehicle. You may need to use them if you’re stuck off road and need to be pulled to some place where you can continue driving.

5-36

CAUTION:

These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.

Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could break off and you or others could be injured from the chain or cable snapping back.

NOTICE:

Never use the recovery hooks to tow the vehicle.

Your vehicle could be damaged and it would not be covered by warranty.

5-37