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Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
Service
Fuel
Fuels in Foreign Countries
Filling Your Tank
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Engine Oil
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Clutch
Rear Axle
Four Wheel Drive (If Equipped)
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Care of Safety Belts
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Service Parts Identification Label
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
6-
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Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and
GM trained and supported service people.
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to do your own service work, see “Servicing Your Air
Bag Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
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CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge, experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel
Gasoline Octane
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane of
87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it is bad enough, it can damage your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not indicate a problem exists or that a higher octane fuel is necessary.
Gasoline Specifications
It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American Automobile
Manufacturers Association and endorsed by the
Canadian Vehicle Manufacturers’ Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting these specifications could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.
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Canada Only
In Canada, look for the “Auto Makers’
Choice” label on the pump.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet California specifications. If this fuel is not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on (see “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index) and your vehicle may fail a smog check test. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Additives
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and the performance of the emission control system may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing your emission control system to work properly.
You should not have to add anything to your fuel.
Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use fuel containing methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.
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Filling Your Tank
CAUTION:
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.
The fuel cap is behind a hinged door on driver’s side of your vehicle.
While refueling, hang the fuel cap by the tether from the hook on the filler door.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise). The fuel cap has a spring in it; if you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the right.
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CAUTION:
If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
NOTICE:
If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions system. See “Malfunction Indicator
Lamp” in the Index.
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Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
D Dispense gasoline only into approved containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.
D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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Hood Release
To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the handle located inside the vehicle on the lower left side of the instrument panel.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps are on properly. Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.
Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and return the prop to its retainer.
Then, pull the hood down firmly to close. It will latch when dropped from about 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) without pressing on the hood.
2. Lift the hood.
3. Release the hood prop from its retainer and put the hood prop into the slot in the hood.
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Engine Compartment Overview
When you open the hood, you will see the following:
A. Battery
B. Coolant Recovery Tank
C. Engine Oil Dipstick
D. Engine Oil Fill
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E. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
(If Equipped)
F. Power Steering Reservoir
G. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir
H. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
I. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir
J. Engine Compartment Fuse Block
K. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The oil dipstick handle is a yellow ring located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle. See “Engine
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
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When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD line, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use.
For engine oil crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and
Specifications” in the Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the cross hatched area that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The engine oil fill cap is located in the engine compartment toward the passenger side of the vehicle.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on the location of the engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol.
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container. If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is
American Petroleum
Institute certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
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As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W 30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W going to be 0
_F (
30 if it’s
18
_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W 50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench
R
oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
20
_F ( 29
_C), consider using either an SAE 5W 30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W 30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
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Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule:
D Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop and go traffic).
D You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top of your vehicle.
D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months - whichever occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months - whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down slower.
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Remote Oil Filter (Four
-
Wheel Drive)
The access door for the remote oil filter is in the steering linkage shield assembly located under the radiator support. Turn the screw to unlock or lock the door. If you open the door, make sure it is securely closed when you are finished.
What to Do with Used Oil
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
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Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
The engine air cleaner/filter is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for more information on the location of the engine air cleaner/filter.
To check or replace the engine air cleaner/filter do the following:
1. Remove the fasteners that hold the cover on and remove the cover.
2. Lift out the engine air cleaner/filter.
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3. Insert a new air filter, if needed.
4. Reinstall the engine air cleaner/filter cover.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it. Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions:
D In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90
_F (32_C) or higher.
D In hilly or mountainous terrain.
D When doing frequent trailer towing.
D Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles (83 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
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Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C).
D At high speed for quite a while.
D In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
D While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180
_F to
200
_F (82_C to 93_C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50
_F
(10
_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50
_F
(10
_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick handle has this symbol on it.
The transmission dipstick is located near the center of the engine compartment . See “Engine Compartment
Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.
3. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
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How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
Manual Transmission Fluid
When to Check
A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON
R
III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON
R
III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.”
D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
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NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Too little fluid could cause the transmission to overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.
Then, follow these steps:
How to Add Fluid
Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.
Hydraulic Clutch
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.
It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.
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When to Check and What to Use
Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See
“Owner Checks and Services” and “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
How to Check and Add Fluid
The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.
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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Four
-
Wheel Drive (If Equipped)
Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten the plug.
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What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you may need to add some lubricant.
When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
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What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with
DEX COOL
R
engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only
DEX COOL
R
extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX COOL
R
coolant will:
D Give freezing protection down to 34
_F ( 37
_C).
D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C).
D Protect against rust and corrosion.
D Help keep the proper engine temperature.
D Let the warning lights and gages work as they should.
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX COOL
R
(silicate free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner - at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX COOL
R
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
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What to Use
Use a mixture of one half clean, drinkable water and one half DEX COOL
R
coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX COOL
R
coolant.
NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
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Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank is located in the engine compartment near the passenger side of the vehicle. See
“Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at ADD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to FULL HOT, or a little higher.
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Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX COOL
R coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.
Never turn the radiator pressure cap - even a little - when the engine and radiator are hot.
Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see
“Cooling System” in the Index.
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Radiator Pressure Cap
NOTICE:
Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering reservoir is located near the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle.
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When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for reservoir location.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.
Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be between the ADD and FULL marks.
If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the proper range.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
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Adding Washer Fluid
The windshield washer fluid reservoir is located toward the front of the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it.
Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
NOTICE:
D When using concentrated washer fluid, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
D Don’t mix water with ready to use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
D Fill your washer fluid tank only three quarters full when it’s very cold. This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
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Brakes
Brake Fluid
of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with
DOT 3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment
Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is that fluid is leaking out
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Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
Checking Brake Fluid
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT 3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the
MAX mark.
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NOTICE:
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.
D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
Brake Wear
Your vehicle has four wheel disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built in wear indicators that make a high pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving (except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly).
CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon your brakes won’t work well. That could lead to an accident. When you hear the brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
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Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top quality GM brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking system - for example, when your brake linings wear down and you need new ones put in - be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change - for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Battery
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
ACDelco
R
battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for battery location.
WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Vehicle Storage
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative ( ) cable from the battery. This will help keep your battery from running down.
CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.
Also, for your audio system, see “Theft Deterrent
Feature” in the Index.
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Bulb Replacement
See “Replacement Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use. For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealer’s service department.
Halogen Bulbs
CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
Headlamps
One
-
Piece Composite Headlamp System
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up.
3. Pull the headlamp assembly out.
4. Unplug the electrical connector.
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5. Turn the bulb/socket assembly counterclockwise to remove it.
6. Put the new bulb/socket assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Plug in the electrical connector.
8. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.
9. Install the two retaining clips.
10. Close the hood.
Two
-
Piece Composite Headlamp System
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the black retainer clips by lifting up.
3. Pull the headlamp assembly out.
4. Turn the bulb/socket assembly counterclockwise to remove it.
5. Put the new bulb/socket assembly into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
6. Plug in the electrical connector.
7. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.
8. Install the two retaining clips.
9. Close the hood.
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One-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps
1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under
“One Piece Composite Headlamp System” earlier in this section.
2. Twist the bulb socket to remove it from the headlamp assembly.
Two-Piece Front Turn Signal Lamps
1. Remove the headlamp assembly as shown under
“Two Piece Composite Headlamp System” earlier in this section.
2. Locate the locking tabs on the assembly.
Squeeze the tabs together and push that end of the assembly out while holding the tabs.
The assembly will swing out.
3. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.
4. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into place.
5. Put the bulb socket into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
6. Put the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle.
7. Install the two retaining clips.
8. Close the hood.
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3. Unplug the electrical connector.
4. Turn the harness bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it.
5. Pull the bulb straight out to remove it from the socket.
6. Push the new bulb into the socket until it snaps into place.
7. Reinstall the harness bulb socket with the new bulb into the headlamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
8. To reinstall the assembly, snap the outboard end of the lamp assembly back into the vehicle. Then swing the assembly in and snap it into place.
9. Install the two retaining clips.
10. Close the hood.
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Taillamps
1. Open the endgate.
2. Remove the two screws from the lamp assembly.
3. Pull the assembly away from the vehicle.
4. Turn the socket counterclockwise to remove it.
Push the tab in while you turn the socket counterclockwise.
5. Holding the base of the bulb, pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
6. Push the new bulb straight into the socket until it clicks.
7. Put the socket into the assembly and turn the socket clockwise until it locks in place.
8. Install the lamp assembly and tighten the screws.
9. Close the endgate.
Windshield Wiper Blade
Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear or cracking. See “Windshield
Wiper Blade Check” in the Index for more information.
See “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the
Index for the proper type of replacement blade.
NOTICE:
Use care when removing or installing a blade assembly. Accidental bumping can cause the arm to fall back and strike the windshield.
1. To remove the old wiper blades, lift the wiper arm until it locks into a vertical position.
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3. Remove the insert from the blade assembly. The insert has two notches at one end that are locked by the bottom claws of the blade assembly. At the notched end, pull the insert from the blade assembly.
A. Blade Assembly
B. Arm Assembly
C. Locking Tab
D. Blade Pivot
E. Hook Slot
F. Arm Hook
2. Press down on the blade assembly pivot locking tab.
Pull down on the blade assembly to release it from the wiper arm hook.
4. To install the new wiper insert, slide the insert (D), notched end last, into the end with two blade claws (A). Slide the insert all the way through the blade claws at the opposite end (B). The plastic caps (C) will be forced off as the insert is fully inserted.
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5. Be sure that the notches are locked by the bottom claws. Make sure that all other claws are properly locked on both sides of the insert slots.
6. Put the blade assembly pivot in the wiper arm hook. Pull up until the pivot locking tab locks in the hook slot.
7. Carefully lower the wiper arm and blade assembly onto the windshield.
Backglass Wiper Blade Replacement
See “Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement” in this section for instructions on how to change the backglass wiper blade. The backglass wiper blade will not lock in a vertical position like the windshield wiper blade, so care should be used when pulling it away from the vehicle.
A. Claw in Notch
B. Correct Installation
C. Incorrect Installation
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Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.
CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
D Overloading your tires can cause overheating as a result of too much friction.
You could have an air out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact - such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The Certification/Tire label, which is on the driver’s door edge, above the door latch, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:
D Too much flexing
D Too much heat
D Tire overloading
D Bad wear
D Bad handling
D Bad fuel economy
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:
D Unusual wear
D Bad handling
D Rough ride
D Needless damage from road hazards
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When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more. Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.
If you have a compact spare tire, it should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and
“Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Make sure the spare tire is stored securely.
Push, pull, and then try to rotate or turn the tire. If it moves, use the wheel wrench to tighten the cable. See
“Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools” in the Index.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
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When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here.
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If your vehicle has a compact spare tire or a spare tire that does not match your vehicle’s regular road tires and wheels in size and type, do not include the spare in the tire rotation.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the
Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off. See in the Index.
When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:
D You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a
TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type (bias, bias belted or radial) as your original tires.
CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.
It’s all right to drive with your compact spare
(if you have one). It was developed for use on your vehicle.
CAUTION:
If you use bias ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Uniform Tire Quality Grading
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.) The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system does not apply to deep tread, winter type snow tires, space saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited production tires.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these grades, they must also conform to federal safety requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and a half (1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and may depart significantly from the norm due to variations in driving habits, service practices and differences in road characteristics and climate.
Traction
--
AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA,
A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor traction performance. Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based on straight ahead braking traction tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
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Temperature
--
A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance to the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 109.
Grades B and A represent higher levels of performance on the laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is established for a tire that is properly inflated and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.
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Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.
See “Changing a Flat Tire” in the Index for more information.
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Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
Tire Chains
CAUTION:
Don’t use tire chains. There’s not enough clearance. Tire chains used on a vehicle without the proper amount of clearance can cause damage to the brakes, suspension or other vehicle parts. The area damaged by the tire chains could cause you to lose control of your vehicle and you or others may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels.
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Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
D Gasoline
D Benzene
D Naphtha
D Carbon Tetrachloride
D Acetone
D Paint Thinner
D Turpentine
D Lacquer Thinner
D Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous - some more than others - and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
D Alcohol
D Laundry Soap
D Bleach
D Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.
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Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Here are some cleaning tips:
D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
D Clean up stains as soon as you can - before they set.
D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.
Using Cleaner on Fabric
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section. Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Follow the directions on the container label.
4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove any excess cleaner.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water dampened towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution:
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.
4. Let dry.
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Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions described earlier.
Cleaning Vinyl
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You may have to do it more than once.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
Cleaning Leather
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.
D For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
D Never use oils, varnishes, solvent based or abrasive cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
D Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish, it can harm the leather.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
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Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
Cleaning Wood Panels
Use a clean cloth moistened in warm, soapy water (use mild dish washing soap). Dry the wood immediately with a clean cloth.
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection.
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
NOTICE:
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later. If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged. Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.
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Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield, Backglass and
Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with a full strength glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. See
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index. Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
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Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
NOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible. If necessary, use non abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
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Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.
Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum. A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
(If Equipped)
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax may then be applied.
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps, chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners, cleaners with acid or abrasive cleaning brushes on them because you could damage the surface. Do not use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic vehicle wash that has silicon carbide tire cleaning brushes.
These brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Cleaning Tires
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.
Petroleum based products may damage the paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
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Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody vehicle washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
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GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6-63
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
Engine Identification
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.
Service Parts Identification Label
You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box. It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this label is:
D your VIN,
D the model designation,
D paint information and
D a list of all production options and special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
6-64
Electrical System
Add-On Electrical Equipment
NOTICE:
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see “Servicing
Your Air Bag Equipped Vehicle” in the Index.
Headlamps
The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off.
If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.
Windshield Wipers
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow or ice, the wiper will stop until the motor cools. If the overload is caused by some electrical problem, be sure to get it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options
Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.
6-65
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses and circuit breakers. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.
Look at the silver colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without - like the radio or cigarette lighter - and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage.
Replace it as soon as you can.
Instrument Panel Fuse Block
The instrument panel fuse block is located at the end of the instrument panel on the driver’s side of the instrument panel.
Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. Extra fuses and the fuse extractor are provided in the cover. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.
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Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
A
B
1
2
Usage
Not Used
Not Used
Not Used
Cigarette Lighter, Data
Link Connector
Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
3
Usage
4
5
9
10
11
12
13
6
7
8
Cruise Control Module and
Switch, Body Control Module,
Heated Seats
Gages, Body Control Module,
Instrument Panel Cluster
Parking Lamps, Power Window
Switch, Body Control Module,
Ashtray Lamp
Steering Wheel Radio Controls
Headlamps Switch, Body Control
Module, Headlamp Relay
Courtesy Lamps, Battery
Run Down Protection
HVAC Control Head (Manual)
Turn Signal
Cluster, Engine Control Module
Interior Lights
Auxiliary Power
6-67
Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
14
15
19
20
21
16
17
18
22
23
24
Usage
Power Locks Motor
4WD Switch, Engine Controls
(VCM, PCM, Transmission)
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint
Front Wiper
Steering Wheel Radio Controls
Radio, Battery
Amplifier
HVAC (Manual), HVAC I
(Automatic), HVAC
Sensors (Automatic)
Anti Lock Brakes
Rear Wiper
Radio, Ignition
Engine Compartment Fuse Block
The engine compartment fuse block is located under the hood on the driver’s side of the vehicle. See “Engine
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Before using this fuse block picture and chart, check to see that it matches the fuse block in your vehicle. If the fuse block pictured here is different than your vehicle’s, use the fuse block picture and chart located later in this section.
Remove the cover by turning the fastener counterclockwise. To reinstall the fuse panel cover, push in and turn the fastener clockwise.
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Name
TRL TRN
TRR TRN
TRL B/U
VEH B/U
Usage
Trailer Left Turn
Trailer Right Turn
Trailer Back Up Lamps
Vehicle Back Up Lamps
Name
RT TURN
LT TURN
HDLP W/W
LT TRN
RT TRN
RR PRK
TRL PRK
LTHDLP
RTHDLP
FRPRK
INT BAT
ENG I
ECM B
ABS
ECM I
Usage
Right Turn Signal Front
Left Turn Signal Front
Not Used
Left Turn Signal Rear
Right Turn Signal Rear
Right Rear Parking Lamps
Trailer Park Lamps
Left Headlamp
Right Headlamp
Front Parking Lamps
I/P Fuse Block Feed
Engine Sensors/Solenoids, MAF,
CAM, PURGE, VENT
Engine Control Module, Fuel
Pump Module, Oil Pressure
Anti Lock Brake System
Engine Control Module Injectors
6-69
Name
A/C
W/W PMP
HORN
BTSI
B/U LP
IGN B
RAP
LD LEV
OXYSEN
IGN E
MIR/LKS
FOG LP
IGN A
STUD #2
PARKLP
Usage
Air Conditioning
Not Used
Horn
Automatic Transmission Shift
Lock Control System
Back Up Lamps
Column Feed, IGN 2, 3, 4
Retained Accessory Power
Not Used
Oxygen Sensor
Engine
Mirrors, Door Locks
Fog Lamps
Starting and Charging IGN 1
Accessory Feeds, Electric Brake
Parking Lamps
Name
LR PRK
IGN C
HTDSEAT
HVAC
TRCHMSL
RRDFOG
TBC
CRANK
HAZLP
VECHMSL
HTDMIR
ATC
STOPLP
RR W/W
Usage
Left Rear Parking Lamps
Starter Solenoid,
Fuel Pump, PRNDL
Heated Seat
HVAC System
Trailer Center High Mount
Stop Light
Rear Defogger
Truck Body Computer
Clutch Switch, NSBU Switch
Hazard Lamps
Vehicle Center High Mounted
Stop Lamp
Heated Mirror
Transfer Case (Four Wheel Drive)
Stop Lamps
Rear Window Wiper
6-70
Replacement Bulbs *
Lamps
Halogen Headlamps,
Composite Low Beam
Halogen Headlamps,
Composite High Beam
Taillamps
Front Sidemarker Lamps
Turn Signal Lamps
Number
9006 HB4 or
9006LL
9005 HB3
3057
194 NA
3457A
*For replacement bulbs not listed here, please consult your dealer.
Capacities and Specifications
Engine Description
Type
. . . . . . . . . . . . “VORTEC” 4300
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . V6
VIN Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W
Firing Order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 6 5 4 3 2
Horsepower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thermostat Specification
190 at 4,400 rpm
. . . . . . . . . . . 195
_F (91_C)
Spark Plug Gap . . . . . . . . . . 0.060 inches (1.52 mm)
Wheels and Tires
Wheel Nut Torque . . . . . . . . . . . 100 lb ft (140 N·m)
Tire Pressure . . . . . . See the Certification/Tire label.
See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
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Capacities
Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information.
Cooling System*
Automatic Trans.
. . . . . . . . . . . . 11.7 quarts (11.1 L)
Manual Trans.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine Oil with Filter*
11.9 quarts (11.3 L)
. . . . . . . . 4.5 quarts (4.3 L)
Automatic Transmission
(Drain and Refill)* . . . . . . . . . . .
Differential Fluid*
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5.0 quarts (4.7 L)
4.0 pints (1.9 L)
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Tank
(2 Door Models) . . . . . .
2.6 pints (1.2 L)
19.0 U.S. gallons (72.0 L)
Fuel Tank
(4 Door Models) . . . . . . 18.0 U.S. gallons (68.0 L)
*All capacities are approximate. After refill, the level
must be checked.
Air Conditioning Refrigerant
Capacity
If you do your own service work, you’ll need the proper service manual. See “Doing Your Own Service Work” in the Index for additional information. It is recommended that service work on your air conditioning system be performed by a qualified technician.
Air Conditioning
Refrigerant R134a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8 lbs. (.79 kg)
Use Refrigerant Oil, R134a Systems
6-72
Normal Maintenance
Replacement Parts
Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM dealer.
Thermostat** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12559051
Oil Filter* (2 Wheel Drive) . . . PF47 (PF52 Optional)
Oil Filter* (4 Wheel Drive) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PF52
Air Cleaner Filter*
PCV Valve*
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A1163C
CV769C
Automatic Transmission Filter Kit**
Spark Plugs*
. . . . 24200796
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 932
Fuel Filter* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GF481
Front Windshield
Wiper Blade . . . . . . . . . . Trico 20 inches (50.8 cm)
Backglass Wiper Blade . . . Trico 14 inches (35.6 cm)
*ACDelco
R
Part No.
**GM Part No.
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