Carp Madness XXL 2020 Instructions Manual

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Carp Madness XXL 2020 Instructions Manual | Manualzz

Instructions

Attention: On Youtube or www.Carp-Madness.de

are detailed video instructions.

Carp Madness XXL Baitboat

2020

111

We are glad that you have chosen a kit of the CM bait boat.

These are selected high-quality components, of which some are specially made for this boat.

The hull is made of ABS, is therefore very light and dimensionally stable and can be easily glued or repaired.

These instructions are intended to facilitate the assembly, but must be implemented by an experienced modeler. Partly it can be that components have to be modified due to tolerances or that they have to be installed otherwise. This manual is only intended as a suggestion. There are several ways to complete the boat.

Thus, customers have already developed various models, such as with solar panels, charge socket outside or jet drive:

All parts have been tested for their function before shipment. It is important to pay attention to the correct connection of the individual components. In addition, the instructions for the use of the components must be read carefully and implemented to ensure the correct use. For damages that are due to a non-professional use, we assume no warranty.

Please read this manual and later the operating instructions carefully before you start working.

Generally, it makes sense to provide all screws with a screw lock.

But now nothing should get in the way:

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Assembly of the fuselage:

1.

Installation of the shafts and the motor

Put the lower part of the fuselage upside down on the table. In the two rear openings should later sit the screws. The later hole has to be measured, cantered from left and right and so high, that the screw is as far down as possible but not too deep, so that the screws don´t touch the table (later the floor). This is for the safety, so that the screws do not break in case of unintentional incorrect use! So hold the screws and adjust. Measure out the second page.

Drill a hole with the diameter of the shaft. The hole should be slightly inclined. Now fit the waves once. The screws must not stand out at the back, so that they do not damage the cord when pulling out. The extension of the inner webs at the boat serve as security for the cord.

But the screws also should not be too far inside, otherwise the feed is not optimal.

At best, the end of the rotor blades is equal to or almost equal to the end of the inner webs.

These are stored waves that are specially made for this boat. These are already cut to length.

In conjunction with the battery holders, the center of gravity and the subsequent water position of the catamaran are automatically optimally defined.

First, the black mounting block is stuck in the boat. Here it is important to glue the block so that the angle and the distance to the end of the boat are right. First of all, install the waves on a trial basis.

It is best to let it dry overnight.

It may be that the block must be fitted slightly.

A full-surface gluing with adhesive silicone also stabilizes the boat and increases the torsional rigidity.

Now you can mount the motor unit incl. Holder and shaft firmly and above all exactly in 90

° and the correct distance. Take your time, this is a absolutely important step.

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The stern tube is sealed from the outside with the green rubber seal.

Remove the last rear ball bearing by inserting the green shaft seal and then insert the shaft and connect to the motor. This should be done before installing the drive unit in the boat. Only the propeller is screwed in the assembled state.

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Attention: The shaft should be well lubricated before the insertion and the assembly.

This serves on the one hand for lubrication but also to achieve a good tightness of the shaft position.

This step is one of the most important, it requires the utmost care. That step determines the later quiet and smooth running. It is also very important that both motors are installed absolutely in the same position.

Caution: always carry out the bonds fully, do not save on the adhesive, epoxy resin can be used and for example. be made thicker with a little baking soda. But we recommend

Sika Flex or a good adhesive silicone.

Our supplied screws are for "without herb protection". That's how the boat runs very well.

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Screws / rivets feed flap battery wave bore wave bore

666

2. Fitting the feed flap

It is possible to equip the boat with one or two feeder flaps. That depends on your field of application; of course, with 2 flaps the volume of the feed shafts is halved. With one flap, even larger buoys or baitfish can be transported.

The operation works with our 6 channel remote control systems. 2 channels for the motors, one channel for 1 or 2 feeder flaps and 3 channels remain free. At these, e.g. a release coupling can be attached. two feed flaps:

If you want to build 2 flaps, you must first divide the feed chute. For this purpose, bulges are mounted in the boat at the bottom of the shaft. In this a plate is glued, which is included in the delivery.

If the shaft is divided, the exact size of each flap can be determined.

The two feed flaps are riveted or bolted with the stainless-steel hinges and also fastened to the boat fuselage. A smooth running is important.

One feed flap:

Put the fuselage upside down on the table. The enclosed feeder flap can either be applied by plan or fitted (then the form has to be traced exactly, put on the flap, fix it with adhesive tape and mark it exactly with a white edding and then cut it out)

If the flap has to be applied, the shape can be used.

Recommendation: use a fine sanding paper to sand the feed flap all the way around to remove any sharp edges. These could later damage the cord.

We recommend screwing the flap with the attached hinges. These hinges are made of stainless steel. Therefore, also use screws or rivets made of aluminum / stainless steel.

Make sure that the flap can still turn

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Triggering a 1 or 2-piece flap:

The inner part of the Bowden cable must perform the support function under the flap.

Drill the hull diagonally at the correct height, then drill the plastic part at an appropriate angle. Insert the Bowden cable into the KS part, seal it with adhesive silicone first and then coat the whole side with adhesive and then glue it onto the hull.

This ensures a straight run of the Bowden cable.

Cut the Bowden cable to the correct length after curing. Finally, insert the inner part, before necessarily grease. On the basis of the inner part, the position of the servo can be determined. Glue the end of the inner part into the sleeve, press in and hook it into the servo.

It is best to hang it in the center to ensure a small radius.

With a 2-piece flap, the largest possible distance between the Bowden cables and a flat radius must be ensured.

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Assembly division shaft:

Mounting the hinges with 1 or 2 flaps:

holder

Illustration: Servo operation of 2 feeder flaps incl. Bowden cable and battery

Illustration: Servo operation of 1 feed flap with Bowden cable

3. Attaching and connecting the electronics

The electronics must be inserted and connected in accordance to the photos and instructions of the individual components. The attachment is a double-sided adhesive tape. The cables must of course be laid clean after a successful test.

Make sure that the components are still accessible after the hull and lid have been glued together. It is important to pay attention to the correct polarity.

The 2.4 GHz system does not need an antenna on the receiver. The receiver must be taught to the transmitter as needed in accordance with the operating instructions.

It is important that the antenna of the receiver is as high as possible, i. later also as high as possible above the water level. Likewise, no power lines may be located directly next to the receiver.

The remote control is programmed by us with an optimal program for the boat. Do not adjust anything on the radio, otherwise the warranty will be forfeited. Every change is stored in the device and can be read out by us.

We recommend the following recipient assignment:

Left engine in slot 1 (seen from the rear)

Right engine in slot 2

Dimmable light on 3

1 piece or 2 piece flap on 4

Release couplings 5 or 6

Important: the dark wire of the 3-core cable must point outwards when plugging in on the receiver

The electronic unit must be inserted and connected in accordance with the label and instructions of the individual components.

The boat should be slightly leaned backwards in the water in the unloaded state. This can be tested very well in the bathtub. Just balance it in the bathtub. This is very important to steer the boat later optimal. Take your time.

4. Adjust the controls

The controllers are fully automatic and do not need to be taught.

We recommend to solder the cables firmly to the motors after a successful adjustment. The screws supplied by us have a left and a right direction.

This is important to allow the best possible directional stability.The direction of the screws should be installed towards the outside of the boat

Congratulations, now the hull is ready !!!!!!!!!!I< mportant: the assembled lower shell can now be tested in the water and the running behavior can be assessed.

Example: Mounted lower shell X-Jet

Mounting the lid:

The diodes supplied by us are pre-assembled and ready. These diodes only need to be screwed into the fuselage.

After assembly, these should still be sealed. Be sure to secure the screwing of the sockets as this area of the boat will be difficult to reach after gluing.

We recommend to connect the diodes parallel, because then the other diodes will still work, if one fails. To do this, connect all + poles and all - poles of the LEDs together.

This line is again soldered to + and - at the output point of the electronics unit.

Important: The power for the lighting is taken from the electronics unit.

The electronic unit must be inserted and connected in accordance with the label and instructions of the individual components (see lower shell).

The attachment is a double-sided adhesive tape. The cables must of course be laid clean after a successful test.

Make sure that the components are still accessible after the hull and lid have been glued together. It is important to pay attention to the correct polarity.

From the inside, the acrylic glass and the voltmeter should be glued on.

Mounting the main switch:

We recommend our illuminated switch, which replaces the small switch on the controller after gluing the fuselage. This small switch on the controller should be cut off and replaced by the main switch as follows:

bonding

After everything works perfectly, the two parts can be glued. Please note that the two parts can not be separated anymore.

It is important to pay attention to clean and grease-free adhesive surfaces. For safety's sake, clean the surfaces outside and inside the shaft with a little solvent.

The appropriate adhesive (we recommend a special adhesive silicone, adhesive silicone is better, since the residues can be easily removed later) at least 3-5 mm evenly thick apply.

Now press the lid onto the fuselage.

In addition, we recommend you to rivet. It's best if the material spills out everywhere. Then the hull is 100% tight.

Now it is essential to allow the boat to cure completely, because movements (even in the water !!) can cause the joints to open.

The black handle must be drilled on both sides to 10 mm and can then be mounted at the center of gravity final.

Now make the electrical connections between the upper and lower shell and finally glue the magnets to the cover holder.

CONGRATULATIONS, now everything is ready.

You can always contact us if you have problems with the assembly.

If the boat pulls to one side, it can be reprogrammed at the radio.

You send us the attachment and we reprogram it for you.

We are happy about all pictures of finished CM bite boats. The boats can also be colored.

A lot of fun and Tight Lines

Wishes

MK Handels GmbH

Carp Madness Fishing Tackle www.carp.madness.de

Inh.: Dipl. Ing. Markus Käsbeck

Miesing 21

84494 Niederbergkirchen email: [email protected]

Battery regulation:

These signs can be found on batteries containing harmful substances:

Pb = Battery contains lead

Cd = Battery contains cadmium

Hg = Battery contains mercury

The following is intended for those who use batteries or products with built-in batteries and do not resell them in the form supplied to them (end users):

1. Free return of used batteries

Batteries must not be disposed of with household waste. You are legally obliged to return used batteries so that a professional disposal can be guaranteed. You can deliver used batteries at a municipal collection point or in the local trade. We are also obliged as a distributor of batteries for the return of waste batteries, but our withdrawal requirement is limited to the new batteries that are or were in our product range. Old batteries of the aforementioned kind can either be returned to us with sufficient prepaid postage or can be delivered directly free of charge to our dispatch warehouse at the following address :

MK Handels GmbH , Carp Madness, Miesing 21, 84494 Niederbergkirchen

2. Meaning of the battery symbols

Batteries are marked with the symbol of a crossed-out rubbish bin (see below). This

Symbol indicates that batteries should not be disposed of with the household waste. At

Batteries containing more than 0.0005% by mass of mercury, more than 0.002% by mass

Cadmium or more than 0.004% by mass of lead, the chemical denomination of the particular pollutant is located under the rubbish bin symbol - "Cd" stands for cadmium,

"Pb" for lead, and "Hg" for mercury. "

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