II. INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
A. DETERMINE OVERALL RAIL LENGTH (Only if track did not come pre-cut to length)
Step 1: Determine any obstructions that will affect the position and length of the rail. These may include walls, doors, hallway orientation, etc.
Step 2: Measure the overall length of the stairs from the nose at the top landing of the stairs to the floor at the bottom (nose to floor measurement, e.g., 128”, see image below).
Step 3: For a normal stairway with adequate space for a landing, add 13” to the nose to floor measurement. This will provide enough rail length to allow the stair lift to be adjusted so that the floor-to-seat height will be the same at both the top and bottom (e.g., 141”).
Step 4: If the top landing has restrictions (i.e., a wall or doorway), use the chart below to determine the length of extension that should be used.
tiP!
Step 5: To cut the rail, use a standard 12” chop saw, with a blade designed to cut aluminum. Do not cut rail inside the house (aluminum chips are very hard to remove from carpets).
DO NOT cut the end of the rail that contains the joint holes.
Remove the charger strips and wire harness before cutting.
7”
Extension
9” 11” 13”
Horizontal intrusion on top landing
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B. RAIL INSTALLATION
Step 1: Open the rail box and remove the contents.
tiP!
Step 2: Position the bottom rail (the rail with end plate attached) directly on the stairs with the end plate towards the bottom of the stairs and the plastic rack facing up. Place an object that measures between 3/4” and 1” between end plate and the floor.
Use the chair box or another heavy object, like a toolbox, at the bottom to prevent the rail from sliding down the stairs.
Step 3: Position the two ends of the track close together. Locate and connect the plug on the ends of the two charger harnesses inside the two track pieces.
Step 4: With the plastic rack facing up, slide the top rail into the bottom rail and guide them together using the pre-installed pins. Gently tap the top rail if necessary to get them close together. Be cautious not to pinch the charger harness.
Step 5: Install two (2) joint fasteners and firmly tighten with 3/16” Allen wrench. Then slide rack pieces down to cover joint.
Step 6: Turn over joined rails and install the remaining two (2) joint fasteners and firmly tighten with 3/16” Allen wrench. Then slide rack pieces down to cover joint.
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Step 7: Install rail brackets by loosening the screws and snapping each bracket edge into the slot, or slide the brackets on from the top of the rail.
WALL
SIDE
Step 8:
A.
For double rails, the first rail bracket should be tightened in place so when turned over the back of the bracket touches the rear of the first step from the bottom landing. The second and third brackets should be placed and tightened on the steps on each side of the rail joint, again so the back of the bracket touches the rear of the step. The fourth and final
bracket should be placed on the last step before the top landing, again
tightening it so it touches the front of the rear of the last step.
B.
Tighten the first rail bracket in place so when turned over the back of the
bracket touches the rear of the first step from the bottom landing. Place the
other rail on the last step before the top landing, again tightening it so it touches the rear of the last step.
Step 9: Turn the rail right side up (plastic side facing up).
Step 10: Measure any obstruction from the wall (this may include handrails, molding, light switches, etc.) and adjust the edge of the brackets an equal distance from the wall.
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